Toyota-Mods Postings Mar 1994

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Mar 1994 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: c.pugsley@trl.oz.au Subject: Re: Struts/Disc Brakes To: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) Date: Tue, 1 Mar 1994 11:52:30 +1100 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Hi there, > An even better upgrade is your rear brakes. You can pull the entire > rear-end out of a late-70's Supra, bolt it into your Celica without any ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > modifications, and get rear disc brakes _plus_ the 7.5" third member, > which is much cheaper to get a limited slip differential for. (Pardon > the dangling participle!) > > Chris > Late 70's supra??!?!?! The supra started here (Australia) in ~84 ish ('Wedge' shaped celica + 6 cylinder engine essentially) What are the earlier supras then? Celicas + 6 cylinder engines and some other go fast/interesting bits? Hmmm a TA22 supra would be interesting.... Cheers, Craig. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com Date: Tue, 01 Mar 1994 00:08:10 CST To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Shop Manuals For what it's worth: I have the shop manuals (complete with electrical schematic volume) for 1988 Corolla (4AGE/4AF) 1992 Truck (22RE/3VZE <- I think this is correct...covers ALL 92 trucks) If anyone is interested, I also have a monochrome scanner so I could be persuaded (sp?) to do SOME (these suckers are long) scanning and maybe get some of this stuff onto Mosaic? Alternately, people can email me directly and I will try to help out with what I can....no guarantees as to when I get a chance though! Any idea as to what sort of copyright problems there are with this? Is this legal as long as it's only a small section? This may not be appropriate for this list but I am biased and hold the readership of this list in higher regard than the other "generic" list. (No offence intended....there just seem to be more techy-types here! hooray) Regards, Fred. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 09:03:04 EST To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Friday Night's Race Well, I did it again. Let a little stupid thing keep me from winning. As I had posted last week, I was having battery problems. Well, I put a new battery into the Celica and it fired right up. I got to the track and did my hot laps and _killed_ everybody else on the track. Nobody could even keep up. Went in and checked my plugs. Now, instead of being black, they swung the other direction and were white. Fortunately I had some larger jets with me, so I went from 135's to 140's. Now, just to race and win, right? After I get the plugs back in and the carb back together, I try to start the car. Nothing. AARRGGHH! Not again! Well, after panicking for a few minutes, I get the bright idea of checking my connections. I open the battery case behind the seat and, sure enough, the positive lead is loose. Tighten it up and VRROOMM, it cranks right up. Now I'm ready to race. Or so I thought. As I am about to pull back onto the track, I happen to reach behind the seat, and feel that I've forgotten to strap the battery case back down. Oh well, the battery is low in the center of the car, and now I _know_ the connections are tight, surely it won't be too much of a problem. I start 16th (outside, 8th row) of a field of 28 cars. That's a bunch of cars on a 1/3 mile oval. I move to first place by about lap 8 or so, taking my time. Unfortunately, this was probably the roughest race of my life! I got pounded continuously! It seemed that one jerk in a Mustang wouldn't get off my back, and took every opportunity to jam into me. No problem, I race to win, and I knew that when I got to first place he wouldn't be fast enough to bump me. After about 2 laps comfortably in first place, the engine just dies exiting turn 2. Nothing, no lights on the tach, nothing. It takes me about 10 seconds to realize that this is definitely a battery problem. I reach behind the seat and the ground cable is off and floating in mid air. Obviously jarred loose by all the pounding I've been taking. I push it back on without unstrapping and hit the key. The engine cranks, but now I am about a lap or so down with only a couple of laps lefts. Oh well, I came to race, so back onto the track I go. After two laps and a yellow I a working my way back up into the lead pack, still a lap down. On the last lap, who do I pass but my buddy in the Mustang. This must really tick him off, because when I come around the traffic high on turn two, he comes off of the bottom and tries to put me into the wall. Fortunately, I am getting pretty good at figuring out what to do with the car in that sort of situation and I avoid the wall, but I have to let him past me to do so. I think to myself, "You're finished, bud" and fall right on his bumper. He goes hard into turn 3 and I never let off the gas, putting my LF bumper on his RR. He goes sideways, and his natural oversteer drives him right into the infield...and right into the huge lake of a puddle created by all the rain we've been having. I think they had to call in a Navy Seal Team to go in and find that joker. Oh well, I think I just failed my final exam for the "How to make friends and influence others" course. Moral of this story: (Nah, its got nothing to do with idiot drivers. We'll always have to deal with them.) Battery placement and securing is critical to winning races. Bolt that thing down, then add some bungee cords, then a piece of rope for good measure. Finally, wrap it in cardboard to prevent shorts and bungee it again. I guess this is like running out of gas during a race. You gotta do it at least once to realize that it can and will happen. -- _ ____| \__ '82 4x4 Christopher P. Myer {_^____^_} (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com) @ @ (407) 725-8742 ___ Melbourne, Florida ____/ ||:. '81 Celica GT <_^___81_^__) @ @ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 06:31:44 HST To: toyota-mods-btptan@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Chris's Battery (Bandwidth Waste) Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 09:03:04 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) Subject: Friday Night's Race >Well, I did it again. Let a little stupid thing keep me from winning. >Well, after panicking for a few minutes, I get the bright idea of >checking my connections. I open the battery case behind the seat and, >sure enough, the positive lead is loose. Tighten it up and VRROOMM, it >cranks right up. Now I'm ready to race. >Moral of this story: (Nah, its got nothing to do with idiot drivers. >We'll always have to deal with them.) Battery placement and securing is >critical to winning races. Bolt that thing down, then add some bungee >cords, then a piece of rope for good measure. Finally, wrap it in >cardboard to prevent shorts and bungee it again. >I guess this is like running out of gas during a race. You gotta do it >at least once to realize that it can and will happen. I know that I have run a race or two without a battery... and this is possible if ya look at all the dragsters etc etc...or without an alternator. Why did you car die and such ? I know that I noticed little or no affection from not having the alternator and the battery hooked up. Thus is why you can remove your negative or even positive side of the battery and still have your car run. Or is this jus my car ? - Allen T "Koji" Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 2 Mar 1994 19:10:09 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: MkI MR2 Twin-Turbo? To: Toyota Mods Mailing List Cc: MR2 Interest Mailing List A friend of mine mentioned, the other day, that he saw an ad in Turbo Magazine. This ad was supposedly from a U.S. company which offers single and twin turbos for MkI MR2's! Has anyone heard of such a thing? Does anyone know of _any_ company that will turbocharge a 4AGE for a "reasonable" price? Does anyone know of any reasonable way to _supercharge_ a 4AGE? ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Brian Simmers Subject: More info on Brian To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Date: Thu, 3 Mar 1994 15:00:54 -0800 (PST) This will help fill in some of the blanks Name : Brian Simmers Location : Simon Fraser University, B.C., Canada Car: 83 Celica GT- wide mags, wheel flares and IRS Engine : 22-RE Mods : Alpine/pioneer system, new paint and tinted windows What I would like to have: Within the next two months I want to lower my car about 1.5 inches. I find the stock handling crappy. The car bounces around at high speeds. I have also considered sway bars. Engine and exhaust can wait, I want to concentate on handling. What I need: Sources? (TRD?) How hard is it to find a set of lowered springs for a Celica. Will just springs cut it or do other things need to be modified. I am open to any other suggestions for my car! Thanks, Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 03 Mar 1994 21:59:06 CST From: toymod@sysfjo.uucp@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com (Fred Oberbuchner) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Re: More info on Brian > Name : Brian Simmers > Sources? (TRD?) > How hard is it to find a set of lowered springs for a Celica. > Will just springs cut it or do other things need to be modified. > I am open to any other suggestions for my car! > > Thanks, > Brian Don't know about the Celica but I put Suspension Techniques (I think) on my 88 Corolla GTS without doing anything else to the suspension and noticed a BIGBIGBIG improvement! (these also dropped the car by 1-1.5" which was an added bonus). Can't remember the cost on them though...bought/installed them from my local favorite mechanic. Regards, Fredo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 03 Mar 1994 22:11:26 CST From: toymod@sysfjo.uucp@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com (Fred Oberbuchner) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Re: Larger injectors/HPV3/injector balancing >I'd be interested in doing this on my '86 mr2. Can you send me info The electromotive hpv3 basically does the following (disclaimer: I am not a mechanic-type): picks up crank position signal directly from the crank pulley this ensures reduced "jitter" on timing programmable timing curves based on rpm/temp/etc (just hook up a PC and adjust away!) direct-fire for a 4-cyl setup, this has 2 coils each of which drives 2 plugs. plugs get fired on the power and exhaust strokes so supposedly the plugs stay cleaner as well. The direct-fire system is reputed to provide a spark which lasts 10 times longer than normal and thereby provides a more effective burn. This would suggest that one could then richen-up the fuel mixture to get more horsies and not bog down too bad at idle. With my performance cams I did notice a BIG difference in throttle response when I advanced the timing quite a bit too. Note: I do not yet have then HPV3 installed so I can't report on how well it worked (but I will!). Any experts want to clarify/correct/add on this? >on the ignition system? Also, consider balancing and cleaning your >injectors before doing the other stuff. Grassroots Motorsport >magazine had the injectors done at Marren in Ct. and said there >was about a 25% increase (?) in throttle response and performance >in their testbed '85 mr2. The performance figures I quoted are >probably not accurate but they were impressive for the ~$120 charged >for the service. > >Jeff Is this for real????? For $120 this would be a heck of a deal! What do they mean by 25% increase in performance? More ponies? I guess it would have to be, wouldn't it? Anyone else done this? Experiences? Jeff: any chance I could get a copy faxed/scanned/mailed to me of this article? Regards, Fredo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 3 Mar 1994 22:24:39 -0800 (PST) From: Phillip Dang Subject: Re: More info on Brian (springs) To: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com Cc: toyota-mods mailing list On Thu, 3 Mar 1994 toymod@sysfjo.uucp wrote: [snip] > Don't know about the Celica but I put Suspension Techniques (I think) > on my 88 Corolla GTS without doing anything else to the suspension > and noticed a BIGBIGBIG improvement! (these also dropped the car by > 1-1.5" which was an added bonus). Can't remember the cost on them > though...bought/installed them from my local favorite mechanic. > > Regards, > Fredo Isn't it a good idea to change the struts while you change the springs? BTW, how much were the springs? Speaking of springs, are there any springs that provide the same performance without lowering the body clearence? I've got 13" diameter wheels and lowering the car would only make the front end more susceptible to scratching. :( I would like to move up to the 14", or is it 15" rims as seen on the GT convertibles of the same body type, but I don't want to change the gearing on the speedo to compensate for the larger rims. Bye, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, 75K miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Subject: Mosiac Svr Access Using LYNX v2.2 To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods) Date: Fri, 4 Mar 1994 22:12:04 +0800 (WST) Just grabbed LYNX v2.2 today and set it up (hopefully, correctly). I can access the default site fine, but when I do a lynx http://su102a.ess.harris.com I can get the main menu (great! I thought. It _actually_ works!... I mean lynx, of course the t-m svr is working, right chris? ;-) ) but accessing any (all) of the links off the main menu get me a Alert!: Unable to connect to remote host Any idea what happened here? bentan Found a '80 Celica ST Coupe, 2T-B, 4-spd, only problem (besides price) 'tis Bright, Metallic, PURPLE... :-( xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: fred@osf.org Subject: Re: Larger injectors/HPV3/injector balancing To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Date: Fri, 4 Mar 1994 10:23:16 -0500 (EST) Cc: fred@osf.org (Fred Dalrymple) > >on the ignition system? Also, consider balancing and cleaning your > >injectors before doing the other stuff. Grassroots Motorsport > >magazine had the injectors done at Marren in Ct. and said there > >was about a 25% increase (?) in throttle response and performance > >in their testbed '85 mr2. The performance figures I quoted are > >probably not accurate but they were impressive for the ~$120 charged > >for the service. Can someone please post details on how to get a hold of "Marren in Ct." -- just a city name would probably be enough.. thanks-- Fred xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 10:27:41 EST From: bahrr@pictel.com (Raymond Bahr) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Tires Hi, Do any of you racer / auto-x types have experiance with the Briggestone Potenza RE71RAZ tires. How do they compare against the Yoka A-008RS. Thanks Ray xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 05:57:18 HST From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: RE: Query Ray > Tires >From bahrr@pictel.com Fri Mar 4 05:28:43 1994 Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 10:27:41 EST From: bahrr@pictel.com (Raymond Bahr) Subject: Tires >Hi, Morning or something... TGIF >Do any of you racer / auto-x types have experiance with the Briggestone >Potenza RE71RAZ tires. How do they compare against the Yoka A-008RS. Yes, I do. I got a set and race shaved them. They didn't cut it. The Yokohama's were still better on the track. On the road I belive they were better in the rain though. Although a "brand new" A008 works good in the rain up to 120 or so... >Thanks >Ray - Allen T "Koji" Kam *-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-* | Allen T "Koji" Kam tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu | | Life Life... koji@io.soest.hawaii.edu | | Taste Death... koji%interact.uucp@netcom.com | | Speed is Pure !!!!! | | Don't let up till you see RED !! 1980 Toyota Trueno SR-5 Sports Coupe | | Advan Racing / HKS / MSD / SSR / Toyota Racing Development / Yokohama Tires | | V-8's are a Blast...but i kinna gotta have to save GAS !!! | | How SERIOUS do YOU wanna GET ??!?!?!! Sum times ya GADA pay the Price.... | | Love is the only ting dat has 2 be earned... | | Eberry ting else can be hacked ! - Reflex the Kismet Thief of Hearts | *-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-* (*NOTE*): They also have a bad selection in tire sizes. - Koji xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 06:17:29 HST From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Query 3SG motor transplants and Stuff Date: Tue, 22 Feb 94 12:39:43 -0500 From: roger@resunix.ri.sickkids.on.ca (Roger Smith) Subject: RWD 3SG conversions..... >Roger wrote about motor transplants and adapters with 3SG motors. Roger, Can you find a 1G-GTE motor ? That could be or a better selection in that range of motor and much BETTER results. BTW whats the difference between Streetable and "race" ? There should be none except for like no lights or such. My car is fully streetable and its also fully raceable. (*shrug*) > I saw a book recently (I walk past a Bookstore called "The Worlds Biggest >Bookstore" to/from work every day) that was entitled "MR2", and it featured >a complete history of the MK1 MR2, including the reason toyota choose to go >supercharged vs turbo. I read this "report" a while ago. Thus is why they changed to a "celica" based motor in the newer MR-2's. Also a Squared motor is more balanced. >Apparently Toyota did evaluate a Turbo 4AGE, but the low end response was >unsastifactory for a production car. Yes that is true. Trust does make a turbo kit for the 4AG motor. >Next they tried the 3SGE, but "The engine leans over to much on its >crank axis to fit in the compact engine bay of the MR2". Yes its not a true squared motor. >This book is also the third source I have come across which has indicated, >that the supercharger on the 4AGZ (which spins at 1.25 times engine speed) >causes the engine to sound like a large vacumn cleaner when at "full tilt" Again not a squared motor engine. >(Hope I don't offend 4AGZ owners), they claim that the engine looses the >"magic note" of the naturally aspirated one (4AGZ does not use TVIS system). Yet again not a squared motor. > Does anyone care about engine note? Not really. Perhaps a little explaination about "squared motors" and such. >From what I understand about Toyota motors, they care more about balance and performance WITH reliablity. If they cannot make their motors "raceable" within their tolerations of noise and balance then they will not and scrap that project. Every Toyota motor like in the Eagle GTP cars is able to be reproduced on a "street" Celica motor of identical type and equal results while still maintaining a comfort and reliablity that is Toyota. Or some nonsense like that. I'll try and find the origional quote. Basically, they do not like Screamers. Like the 18RG motor Ivan "Ironman" uses. I'd say if ya want performance throw in a 1G-GTE motor and make that little car fly !!! =) BTW You Celica owners (See-li-car) from 1985 to present with exceptions of the GTS have "deceptively fast" cars. The suspension and ride inhibits much of the cars performance. A Simple strut change will provide you with a ton of new performance. However doing this you cut down on your acceleration times due to the "lowering" of the body closer to the ground and the weight conversion or transfer is loss. (I think this can be adapted with the right tire and rim selection although and made back up) - Allen T "Koji" Kam *-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-* | Allen T "Koji" Kam tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu | | Life Life... koji@io.soest.hawaii.edu | | Taste Death... koji%interact.uucp@netcom.com | | Speed is Pure !!!!! | | Don't let up till you see RED !! 1980 Toyota Trueno SR-5 Sports Coupe | | Advan Racing / HKS / MSD / SSR / Toyota Racing Development / Yokohama Tires | | V-8's are a Blast...but i kinna gotta have to save GAS !!! | | How SERIOUS do YOU wanna GET ??!?!?!! Sum times ya GADA pay the Price.... | | Love is the only ting dat has 2 be earned... | | Eberry ting else can be hacked ! - Reflex the Kismet Thief of Hearts | *-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-* xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Phillip Dang Cc: toyota-mods mailing list Subject: Re: More info on Brian (springs) Date: Fri, 04 Mar 94 09:21:51 -0800 From: danapple@vicor.com > Phillip Dang writes: > Speaking of springs, are there any springs that provide the same > performance without lowering the body clearence? I looked and looked but didn't find any. Eibach seemed to lower the least, at roughly .5", so I went with them. I've heard that custom springs are not much more expensive than mass produced springs, so that's worth looking into. > don't want to change the gearing on the speedo to compensate for the > larger rims. If you went with lower aspect ratio tires, you might be able to keep the same overall tire diameter. The lower aspect tires would improve your transient response for cornering. > Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California Dan. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 13:34:25 -0500 To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com From: roger@resunix.ri.sickkids.on.ca (Roger Smith) Subject: Re: Larger injectors - a cheaper alternative >A few months ago I was trying to price out larger injectors for my 4AGE >and dicovered that these darn things are expensive even from a wrecker >(if you can find any Toyota's that is!). I talked to my much-regarded >favorite mechanic and he said....why not try an adjustable fuel pressure >regulator to up the fuel pressure thereby increasing the fuel flow? >That way if you don't like it you can always adjust it back or down >without having to throw away $400 in injectors? The regulator is going >to run about $50 or so. I am going to try this this spring right I was at a friends house last night who works as a mechanic at a muffler shop, any how we go to talking about EFI's and such, he has worked on a couple Toyota 4 runners, and said that when put into 4WD, the fuel pressure goes up therby providing a richer fuel mixture. The March 94 Fast car mag, has Dyno readings of different air fuel ratios vs RPM, ideally for race engines, the best figures are from 12.x - 13.x while for street engines it is from 13.x to 14.x (sorry don't recall specifics) any how, it seems that there is plenty of room for improvement in your stock fuel system, provided you have the ignition to burn it. -- Roger Smith | Research Computing Services, Software Development | The Hospital for Sick Children, Internet:roger@sickkids.on.ca | Toronto, Canada. (416)-813-5779 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 14:29:36 EST From: bahrr@pictel.com (Raymond Bahr) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Bridgestone Tire Close Out I thought this might interest people!! Ray ----- Begin Included Message ----- >From z-car@Dixie.Com Wed Mar 2 17:59:43 1994 Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 15:22 EST Sender: z-car@dixie.com Subject: Bridgestone Tire Close Out From: z-car@dixie.com (The Z-car List) To: z-car@dixie.com Reply-To: z-car@dixie.com Posted-Date: Wednesday, Mar 02 1994 15:11:54 X-Sequence: 3872 X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu Content-Length: 1408 This is a cross (actually double crossed) post from wheel-to-wheel If anybody's looking for auto-x tires or just a good summer tire this may interest you. (This isn't intended as an advertisment, more of a public service announcement.) -dave IZCC#66 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- *Fm: Patrick J. Childs 73353,1313 *To: All I talked to Steve Butz, from Blackburn Racing today and he informed me that BBR is liquidating it's entire inventory of Showroom Stock and Racing Slicks. According to Steve, everything is going at $60 per tire! They haven't got anything firmed up yet on pricing, but they are going to do discounts on orders for over 20 tires. He said that they have tons of SR tires, RE71R compound, still in stock, as well as pretty much all sizes of the RE71RAZ and RE71RZ compounds, shaved and full treads. I put RE71Rs on my 240Z, and Peugeot 505STI, and am going to put a set on my Ford Ranger (2WD of course). I got really decent wear from the full treads on the street, not to mention they are lots stickier than regular street tires. :-) The BBR Fax # is (317) 823-0040 or you can call (800) 828-9143 and talk to Barb. Tell her you heard it from me on CompuServe. Pat Childs ---------- Posted by: emory!pc.Trimble.COM!DBALINGI.SALES (David Balingit) ----- End Included Message ----- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 4 Mar 1994 15:59:55 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: More info on Brian (springs) To: Phillip Dang Cc: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com, On Thu, 3 Mar 1994, Phillip Dang wrote: > > On Thu, 3 Mar 1994 toymod@sysfjo.uucp wrote: > > [snip] > > Don't know about the Celica but I put Suspension Techniques (I think) > > on my 88 Corolla GTS without doing anything else to the suspension > > and noticed a BIGBIGBIG improvement! (these also dropped the car by > > 1-1.5" which was an added bonus). Can't remember the cost on them > > though...bought/installed them from my local favorite mechanic. > > > > Regards, > > Fredo > > Isn't it a good idea to change the struts while you change the springs? > BTW, how much were the springs? > > Speaking of springs, are there any springs that provide the same > performance without lowering the body clearence? I've got 13" diameter > wheels and lowering the car would only make the front end more > susceptible to scratching. :( I would like to move up to the 14", or is > it 15" rims as seen on the GT convertibles of the same body type, but I > don't want to change the gearing on the speedo to compensate for the > larger rims. > > Bye, > . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . > Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California > 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, 75K miles > To avoid adjusting your speedo, just invest in some lower profile tires on 15" rims. Looks _much_ better! About changing struts: I'm not sure, but a friend of mine has an '85 Celica GTS which he lowered 3" without changing struts! Ride's rough, but handles better. ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 4 Mar 1994 16:10:47 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: Query 3SG motor transplants and Stuff To: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com On Fri, 4 Mar 1994 tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu wrote: > > I'd say if ya want performance throw in a 1G-GTE motor and make that little > car fly !!! =) > Can you explain for us non-mechanics (assuming I'm not the only one) what the 1G-GTE engine is (i.e., what car it comes from, displacement, etc.)? Much appreciated. ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 05 Mar 1994 12:03:26 CST From: toymod@sysfjo.uucp@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com (Fred Oberbuchner) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Re: More info on Brian (springs) >Isn't it a good idea to change the struts while you change the springs? Not strictly required however it may have been a good thing to do if I had had the money at the time. I am still (2 or is it 3 years later) running with the stock struts so I couldn't say how much more struts would do for me.... >BTW, how much were the springs? I honestly can't remember! I seem to recall that most things were around $500 CAN but that may be +- $200. How's that for accuracy! (Sorry) > >Speaking of springs, are there any springs that provide the same >performance without lowering the body clearence? I've got 13" diameter >wheels and lowering the car would only make the front end more >susceptible to scratching. :( I would like to move up to the 14", or is >it 15" rims as seen on the GT convertibles of the same body type, but I >don't want to change the gearing on the speedo to compensate for the >larger rims. I'll leave this to people with REAL knowledge (I don't know!). I too would like to find a buyer who'll give me a reasonable amount of cash (whatever THAT is) for my 14" rims so I can buy 15" rims and go to something like a 205/50 tire. THAT would be deadly!!! > >Bye, >. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . >Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California >87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, 75K miles Regards, Fredo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: John Red-Horse Subject: 22RE Engine Question (Long) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota-Mods Mailing List) Date: Sun, 6 Mar 1994 09:59:18 -0500 (EST) Hello All, I've got myself some sort of engine problem(s) and I'm hoping for some hints on how to proceed (diagnostics and repair strategies). The Situation: The 22RE engine in my 85 4x4 is literally drinking oil. I get somewhere in the neighborhood of 1qt/100miles consumption and I'd like to be able to figure out the culprit. My guess is that it's either the valve train or the rings. I bought the truck used about 6 years ago (it had ~40k miles on it at that time) and it has been somewhat of a oil hog (~1qt/300miles) since that time. Oil comsumption is impossible to assess when buying a used car considering the time constraints one is usually sidled with. Sigh. Anyway, here's some background. When I bought the truck, I did a compression test and a vacuum test and both seemed ``normal''. I'm citing this from memory, but I think that the compression all around was in the 145-150psi range and the vacuum test results were rock solid: steady needle at idle, a quick drop and rise to steady needle at 3.2k rpm. There was no flutter and there was no pulsing drop out. I've run these diagostics from time-to-time, but not on any documentable schedule, so things might've changed significantly since the original/ongoing status. But, there are definitely no oil leaks and, once the engine is warmed up, there are no external signs of oil consumption---it doesn't smoke at all. I'm inclined to say that this due to the catalytic converter, but even at startup, I really only notice ``vapor-like'' exhaust (something I've always attributed to a mixture of cold and water vapor in the exhaust path). The Questions: (1) Obviously, something is terribly wrong here and I'm hoping some of ya'll out there in the mods world are familiar with various ways to diagnose my problem(s). The reason that I'm asking for such things is that the results of the usual compression/vacuum thing didn't predict my original consumption problem. (2) Assuming that these diagnostics are successful, it's clear that some engine work is going to be in the works. Are there things that I can do at this point to beef it up a bit while I'm at it? Cam? Bore? EFI mods? Others? My only criterion for selection will be the price/performance ratio. Thanks for any suggestions (sorry for the long note)... cheers, john -- John Red-Horse jrredho@sandia.gov Structural Dynamics & Vibration Control Sandia National Laboratories (505)845-9190 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 6 Mar 1994 19:07:46 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: fuseable link To: Jonathan Drout Cc: MR2 Interest Mailing List , On Sun, 6 Mar 1994, Jonathan Drout wrote: > > I need to access (and replace) the fuseable link in my '86 MR2. > > Does anyone know EXACTLY where it is? > In my 85 the Fusible links were in the engine compartment fusebox that > is basically directly behind the driver seat. The look like small > boxes and are various colours. What makes you think its the FL? A mechanic (friend of the family) told me, although he's not a Toyota expert. My Haynes guide says that the FL I'm looking for is a length of wire which comes from the battery somewhere. (the electrical diagram is very unspecific about where it is and what it looks like) How do you tell if a FL is fried? 3 mechanics say it's the first thing to check--but what else could cause my car to be _DEAD_ (i.e., no power at all)? (to recap for everyone else: I accidentally backwards-boosted my car) ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: k124476@ee.tut.fi (Kalalahti Matti) Subject: Re: Query 3SG motor transplants and Stuff To: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca (Darin Ray Hamilton) Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 15:56:58 EET Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota-mods mailing list) > On Fri, 4 Mar 1994 tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu wrote: > > > > > I'd say if ya want performance throw in a 1G-GTE motor and make that little > > car fly !!! =) > > > > Can you explain for us non-mechanics (assuming I'm not the only one) what > the 1G-GTE engine is (i.e., what car it comes from, displacement, etc.)? Celica Supras 82-(85?), possibly Japan only, 2.0L, inline 6 cylinder with two small turbochargers. More than 160hp & 220 Nm, can't remember the exact figures. Should be relatively lightweight and silent engine. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 160hp * 206Nm * '82 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 08:57:44 -0500 To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com From: roger@resunix.ri.sickkids.on.ca (Roger Smith) Subject: Re: Larger injectors/HPV3/injector balancing > >Can someone please post details on how to get a hold of "Marren in Ct." -- >just a city name would probably be enough.. Taken from the March 94 Turbo & Hi-Tech mag: "Get the Right Injectors" Marren Motor sports 412 Roosevelt Dr. Derby, Connecticut 06418 Tel: 203-732-4565 Fax: 203-734-2629 -- Roger Smith | Research Computing Services, Software Development | The Hospital for Sick Children, Internet:roger@sickkids.on.ca | Toronto, Canada. (416)-813-5779 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 10:43:06 EST From: hacker@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jonathan Hacker 21420) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: 22RE Engine Question (Long) My guess is it is the valve seals, especially since you have good compression and vacuum. These engines are famous for their valve seals going rock hard and leaking. If you have a source of compressed air you can change them without even removing the head. (Use the compressed air to pressurize the cylinder and hold up the valve while you remove the valve spring) I actually saw on TV two guys changing the seals on this engine. I think it was on TNN on a Sunday. Jon > Hello All, > > I've got myself some sort of engine problem(s) and I'm hoping for some > hints on how to proceed (diagnostics and repair strategies). > > The Situation: > > The 22RE engine in my 85 4x4 is literally drinking oil. I get > somewhere in the neighborhood of 1qt/100miles consumption and I'd like to > be able to figure out the culprit. My guess is that it's either the > valve train or the rings. I bought the truck used about 6 years ago > (it had ~40k miles on it at that time) and it has been somewhat of a > oil hog (~1qt/300miles) since that time. Oil comsumption is > impossible to assess when buying a used car considering the time > constraints one is usually sidled with. Sigh. > > Anyway, here's some background. When I bought the truck, I did a > compression test and a vacuum test and both seemed ``normal''. I'm > citing this from memory, but I think that the compression all around > was in the 145-150psi range and the vacuum test results were rock > solid: steady needle at idle, a quick drop and rise to steady needle > at 3.2k rpm. There was no flutter and there was no pulsing drop out. > I've run these diagostics from time-to-time, but not on any > documentable schedule, so things might've changed significantly since > the original/ongoing status. But, there are definitely no oil leaks > and, once the engine is warmed up, there are no external signs of oil > consumption---it doesn't smoke at all. I'm inclined to say that this > due to the catalytic converter, but even at startup, I really only > notice ``vapor-like'' exhaust (something I've always attributed to a > mixture of cold and water vapor in the exhaust path). > > The Questions: > > (1) Obviously, something is terribly wrong here and I'm hoping some of > ya'll out there in the mods world are familiar with various ways to > diagnose my problem(s). The reason that I'm asking for such things is > that the results of the usual compression/vacuum thing didn't predict > my original consumption problem. > > (2) Assuming that these diagnostics are successful, it's clear that > some engine work is going to be in the works. Are there things that I > can do at this point to beef it up a bit while I'm at it? Cam? Bore? > EFI mods? Others? My only criterion for selection will be the > price/performance ratio. > > Thanks for any suggestions (sorry for the long note)... > > cheers, > john > > -- > John Red-Horse jrredho@sandia.gov > Structural Dynamics & Vibration Control > Sandia National Laboratories (505)845-9190 > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 11:14:42 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: 22RE Engine Question (Long) (First, sorry if any of you were inconvenienced by some computer problems we had here. I don't think it affected the group, but if so I apologize.) Now, Jon makes a good point in response to John's 22RE question about leaking seals. I have been trying to guess what John's problem is ever since he first mentioned it on the list a long time ago, and I agree that it must be leaking, possibly even missing valve stem seals. Unfortunately, that doesn't explain why there isn't any smoke in the exhaust, but let's pursue one thing at a time. You could do as Jon suggests, however you mention adding power while you are in there. Here's another suggestion. Get a 20R head from a junk yard. You should be able to get one for around $30 - $50 US. Clean it up a bit. Send it off and have the deck shave a little bit and a valve job done. Have them install new valve stem seals when they put the valves back in. This shouldn't cost much more than about $60 US. If you are serious about wanting more power, do this as well: Get a higher performance cam from TRD or wherever, and get some stiffer dual valve springs, such as the ones TRD offers. You will see a huge, night and day improvement. Couple this with a good 1 5/8 inch header, and you could see as much as a 40% improvement in HP (up to about 140-150 hp). If you want more, consider doing a little porting and polishing on the head before you send it off for the machine work, and follow the other thread on getting bigger injectors. Good luck. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 12:33:30 -0500 To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com From: roger@resunix.ri.sickkids.on.ca (Roger Smith) Subject: Misc and FTP access.. I have temporarily set up an FTP server. (For you Techies, you are directly FTP'ing to a Macintosh) The following jpeg images are available (you will need to do a binary transfer) corolla.jpeg: 85 Corolla GTS (British) esso.jpeg: Esso FWD starlet glasurit1.jpeg: Glasurit Starlet from Side (82 RWD Starlet -- wild paint job) glasurit2.jpeg: Glasurit starlet from rear glasurit3.jpeg: Glasurit Starlet from front hot_rod.jpeg: British RWD starlet with Hot Rod body kit. pepsi.jpeg: Pepsi starlet starlet.kit.jpeg: 4 door-> 2 door Starlet & body kit starlets.jpeg: Starlets on starting grid starlet.jpeg: (Proposed paint scheme for Roger's Starlet) starlet.wing.jpeg: B/W picture of adjustable rear wing for starlet. (Adaptable to another car) the ip address is 192.75.158.174 -- Roger Smith | Research Computing Services, Software Development | The Hospital for Sick Children, Internet:roger@sickkids.on.ca | Toronto, Canada. (416)-813-5779 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 11:03:36 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: Query 3SG motor transplants and Stuff To: Kalalahti Matti Cc: Toyota-mods mailing list On Mon, 7 Mar 1994, Kalalahti Matti wrote: > > > On Fri, 4 Mar 1994 tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu wrote: > > > > > > > > I'd say if ya want performance throw in a 1G-GTE motor and make that little > > > car fly !!! =) > > > > > > > Can you explain for us non-mechanics (assuming I'm not the only one) what > > the 1G-GTE engine is (i.e., what car it comes from, displacement, etc.)? > > Celica Supras 82-(85?), possibly Japan only, 2.0L, inline 6 cylinder > with two small turbochargers. More than 160hp & 220 Nm, can't remember > the exact figures. Should be relatively lightweight and silent engine. > I was told by a Toyota specialist that there was not enough room between the rear strut towers on an MR2 to transversely mount a Supra inline-6. Do you know of anyone who has successfully done this procedure? If so, what mods had to be made? ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 13:19:03 -0500 From: John Red-Horse To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: An Update on 22RE Questions (Long, again) Hey Ya'll, Thanks for the prompt responses... Here's an update on things (it's time to eat some crow :) > In article <"Macintosh */PRMD=MOT/ADMD=MOT/C=US/"@MHS> (Wow!), Jim Chott writes: jim> I've got the same engine in the same vehicle. That's incredibly jim> bad oil consumption for it not to be obvious. Does it pass emissions jim> ok? Again like you said the cat may be burning it before it makes jim> it out. It does (or rather has) passed emissions. My suspicion is that the cat is doing the job. jim> But if it's not leaking, it has to be burning it. A friend's jim> 22RE was burning oil at a rate somewhere near yours at 125k miles when jim> he dumped it for a Chevy V-6, but he didn't tear it down to see what jim> was wrong. #Contrition Mode On# You're absolutely right, my question pertained to how to find out where the culprit was, so I decided to take the 30 minutes that I should've taken before posting and do another compression/vacuum check... jim> For a data point, my 22RE has 107k miles, compression is 170 psi for jim> all four cylinders, vacuum is about 19-20" at idle. No noticeable jim> oil burning between 3k mile oil changes. So your compression seems jim> a little low, but nothing drastic. Please post what you find if jim> you don't mind. ...and here're the results: Compression 95-105psi (Before oil) 100-125 (After oil) Vacuum: 15 at idle, somewhat shaky; Dip at throttle opening; 18 at ~3200rpm, steady The diagnosis: Bad rings, probably worn valve guides. #Contrition Mode Off# > In article <9403071543.AA01143@patagonia.bellcore.com>, Jonathan Hacker 21420 writes: jon> My guess is it is the valve seals, especially since you have jon> good compression and vacuum. These engines are famous for their jon> valve seals going rock hard and leaking. Thanks for the tip on this one. It may have had something to do with my earlier problems, but it's now a peripheral concern. jon> If you have a source of compressed air you can change them jon> without even removing the head. (Use the compressed air to jon> pressurize the cylinder and hold up the valve while you remove jon> the valve spring) Isn't this called a ``leak-down test''? I never actually figured out how to do it, but don't you need (1) a special adaptor to screw into the sparkplug receptacle; (2) a way to determine whether the leak is a valve or around the rings? > In article <9403071614.AA00378@su102a.ess.harris.com>, Chris Myer writes: chris> You could do as Jon suggests, however you mention adding power chris> while you are in there. Here's another suggestion. Get a 20R chris> head from a junk yard. You should be able to get one for Well, I talked to someone out there who intimated that there was a head compatibility problem between the 20R and the 22R engines. In fact, this person told me that specifically 85 22RE's were incompatible with other 22RE's. Does this make any sense? I'd like to be armed with more info before I get a new head and take it to the machine shop. chris> around $30 - $50 US. Clean it up a bit. Send it off and have chris> the deck shave a little bit and a valve job done. Have them chris> install new valve stem seals when they put the valves back in. chris> This shouldn't cost much more than about $60 US. If you are chris> serious about wanting more power, do this as well: Get a chris> higher performance cam from TRD or wherever, and get some chris> stiffer dual valve springs, such as the ones TRD offers. You chris> will see a huge, night and day improvement. Couple this with chris> a good 1 5/8 inch header, and you could see as much as a 40% chris> improvement in HP (up to about 140-150 hp). Yes Chris, this is precisely the detail that I'm looking for here. The increases that you describe should be sufficient---now I'll get to use that Mosaic server for something other than casual viewing :). Thanks again to all. This is all very good info, I'll followup when I bring this thing to a conclusion. cheers, john xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 14:24:41 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: An Update on 22RE Questions (Long, again) I'm not going to repost all of the original to which I am responding (hope everybody got it!) Anyway, I've never heard of an incompatibility problem with any 2xR head/block combo, but that certainly doesn't mean it couldn't exist. One call to RJ at TRD will answer this question quickly! Probably the only thing I'd be concerned about is the fact that a 20R has a different intake than the 22R. This means that you'd probably have to drop your EFI for a carb, a bit of info that I neglected to think of with my earlier post. (*Sorry!*) Another possible source of info on this is LC Engineering, in the Suppliers listing. I think they have the kit to do EFI-to-carb conversions, but they are not real big on helping you unless you are gonna spend some money. GET THE CATALOG! These guys are 2xR engine gurus and my (older) catalog has a wealth of info! If you're gonna have to rebuild your low-end, seriously consider the TRD 10.5:1 pistons. Yes, this means you'll have to run super-unleaded the rest of your engine's life, but that might not be too bad. Also, I'd consider getting the bottom end balanced. Except for the crank, this isn't anything you can't do yourself, provided you are now bashful, and have a die grinder and a good scale. How about some comments on these suggestions. Anyone? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 16:31:10 -0500 To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com From: roger@resunix.ri.sickkids.on.ca (Roger Smith) Subject: Re: An Update on 22RE Questions (Long, again) (stuff deleted) > >If you're gonna have to rebuild your low-end, seriously consider the TRD >10.5:1 pistons. Yes, this means you'll have to run super-unleaded the >rest of your engine's life, but that might not be too bad. Also, I'd >consider getting the bottom end balanced. Except for the crank, this >isn't anything you can't do yourself, provided you are now bashful, and >have a die grinder and a good scale. > >How about some comments on these suggestions. Anyone? Apparently the manufacturing tolerances are so good on Toyota's, and TRD's parts that if bought as a matching set (i.e you buy all the rods/pistons together), you don't have to balance the parts. (This info from a Fast car mag. on modifying toyotas) I have never had my engine balanced (Toyota/TRD parts), nor have I lived to regret it. If however you are buying parts from an after market company, who has outsourced the components, then I would be inclined to have the parts balanced. -- Roger Smith | Research Computing Services, Software Development | The Hospital for Sick Children, Internet:roger@sickkids.on.ca | Toronto, Canada. (416)-813-5779 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Craig Pugsley Subject: corolla.jpeg: 85 Corolla GTS (British) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Date: Tue, 8 Mar 1994 10:41:34 +1000 (EST) Hi there, I just had a look at some of the JPG's at the FTP site., specifically the "corolla.jpeg: 85 Corolla GTS (British)" Now, can anyone tell me more about these? EG Years made: Late '82 - early '85 ?? (Apparent local availability) Engine: 4A / 2T?? (Rear wheel drive) Engines that will fit it: 3TGTEU 4AG/4AGZE 7MGTE :-) (Hmm.. maybe not) What's the story with the different body styles? Did the US/Canada have these fixed headlights or the pop up ones only? Also, ***Are the pop up light front panels interchangable with the fixed headlight models, and ARE THESE PANELS THE SAME AS THE CELICA** The reason I ask this is our local models had the fixed lights, so if I can get one with a smashed front (ie cheap) and put a pop up light front on it it would look very different to anything else here. Cheers, Craig. PS if anyone has a picture of a pop up light model it would be much appreciated if you could email it to me (JPG format preferred) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 18:55:16 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: 1G-GTE in an MR2 To: Toyota Mods Mailing List On Mon, 7 Mar 1994, Kalalahti Matti wrote: > > > On Fri, 4 Mar 1994 tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu wrote: > > > > > > > > I'd say if ya want performance throw in a 1G-GTE motor and make that little > > > car fly !!! =) > > > > > > > Can you explain for us non-mechanics (assuming I'm not the only one) what > > the 1G-GTE engine is (i.e., what car it comes from, displacement, etc.)? > > Celica Supras 82-(85?), possibly Japan only, 2.0L, inline 6 cylinder > with two small turbochargers. More than 160hp & 220 Nm, can't remember > the exact figures. Should be relatively lightweight and silent engine. > I was told by a Toyota specialist that there was not enough room between the rear strut towers on an MR2 to transversely mount a Supra inline-6. Do you know of anyone who has successfully done this procedure? If so, what mods had to be made? ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: John Red-Horse Subject: More Regarding that Blasted 22RE To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota-Mods Mailing List) Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 21:43:31 -0500 (EST) As Chris Myer suggested, I gave RJ at TRD a call about my engine. Here are a couple of things that he brought up during that conversation: (1) Between early and late 85 (8/84 production) and later, the deck height of the heads was decreased from 100mm to 96mm. He felt that this difference was sufficient to rule out machining a 20R head for placement on a later 22R block. He had some very positive things to say about the later 22R head. (2) Based on mileage alone, he seemed confident that the valves, guides (obviously these would need some machining) and possibly valve springs (here, he definitely was against dual springs) would be ok. He suggested replacing the cam with one possessing the same duration, but more lift. He didn't give me a part number, but I got the feeling that he had a particular one in mind. He also suggested replacing the rocker arm assembly. These two items were $181 and $160, respectively. (3) He suggested boring the cylinders to .080 (!) over and buying newer pistons. $400/set (ouch!). (4) Finally, on the exhaust, he suggested a 2" header and buying a 2 liter and over catalytic converter (the cat can be gotten at any automotive parts warehouse). Header $269. Chris, perhaps the difference in the header size that you suggested (1 5/8") and the one he brought up was due to the displacement increase. I didn't think to ask him. I will if I decide to proceed without a bore. I should also mention that all of the work that he suggested would be compliant with emissions regulations. Thanks to all, I'll keep you posted (if I'm not already in your KILLFILE equivalents :)... cheers, john -- John Red-Horse jrredho@sandia.gov Structural Dynamics & Vibration Control Sandia National Laboratories (505)845-9190 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary H To: jrredho@universe.digex.net, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: An Update on 22RE Questions (Long, again) Date: Tue, 8 Mar 94 2:04:51 PST From: John Red-Horse > >You're absolutely right, my question pertained to how to find out >where the culprit was, so I decided to take the 30 minutes that I >should've taken before posting and do another compression/vacuum check... > > jim> For a data point, my 22RE has 107k miles, compression is 170 psi for > jim> all four cylinders, vacuum is about 19-20" at idle. No noticeable > jim> oil burning between 3k mile oil changes. So your compression seems > jim> a little low, but nothing drastic. Please post what you find if > jim> you don't mind. > >...and here're the results: Compression 95-105psi (Before oil) > 100-125 (After oil) > > Vacuum: 15 at idle, somewhat shaky; > Dip at throttle opening; > 18 at ~3200rpm, steady > >The diagnosis: Bad rings, probably worn valve guides. I did a compression test on my 22R engine about a year ago. It took me about six to nine cranks to get up to 95-105. I put some oil in and got about 110. I concluded I had bad rings. I contribute all this to lack of oil twice in the car's life. I've heard screeching inside the engine, checked the dipstick and noticed I had almost no oil. This was a coupla thousands of miles ago, but I decided I'll just run the car until it dies (and of course I now take better car of my car since my college daze). Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 8 Mar 94 08:53:59 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: More Regarding that Blasted 22RE A few comments... > (1) Between early and late 85 (8/84 production) and later, the deck > height of the heads was decreased from 100mm to 96mm. He felt that > this difference was sufficient to rule out machining a 20R head for > placement on a later 22R block. He had some very positive things to > say about the later 22R head. This is important/interesting info! Can you comment on what he said about the later 22R head? I am wondering if you were building a pre-85 22R block if he likes the post-85 22R head _better_ than the 20R head. Koji, have you ever heard anything about this? > (2) Based on mileage alone, he seemed confident that the valves, > guides (obviously these would need some machining) and possibly valve > springs (here, he definitely was against dual springs) would be ok. > He suggested replacing the cam with one possessing the same duration, > but more lift. He didn't give me a part number, but I got the feeling > that he had a particular one in mind. He also suggested replacing the > rocker arm assembly. These two items were $181 and $160, > respectively. Sometimes you gotta press RJ a bit for the details. He gives them happily, but will just as happily make an off the cuff statement and let you go off guessing. OK, I stand ready to blaspheme the omniscient RJ (actually, I've disagreed with him several times before) (*slander!*). Dual valve springs are CRITICAL (IMHO) on any high performance engine. Not only do they ensure that there is no valve float at high RPM by increasing the seat pressure, but they also prevent harmonics. Its like this: Any spring has a harmonic frequency. This is evident in a suspension spring going down a washboard road. Ever notice that at some speeds the ride gets so bad the car seems like its gonna explode (overshoot), and then you can find another speed where it kinda smooths out a bit (float)? That's fine on a washboard road, but in your valve train, you want the valve to follow the cam lobe _exactly_. Double springs help ensure this, by giving each valve two different harmonics. When one spring is having trouble with the frequency, the other can be depended on. On the other hand, it is a common fallacy to try to put too much seat pressure on your valves, and that just steals New rocker arms are a good idea, and I've been told to always get the arms at the same place you get the cam. If not, or if you just change the cam, the dissimilar metals can cause accelerated wear. (Actually, don't freak if you changed your cam and didn't change your rockers. I think this is more of a "best-case situation rather than a "must do".) > (4) Finally, on the exhaust, he suggested a 2" header and buying a 2 > liter and over catalytic converter (the cat can be gotten at any > automotive parts warehouse). Header $269. > > Chris, perhaps the difference in the header size that you suggested (1 > 5/8") and the one he brought up was due to the displacement increase. > I didn't think to ask him. I will if I decide to proceed without a > bore. Yeah, possibly. See what the folks at LC engineering suggest. They base their recommendations on the carb/cam combo you have (which is how it should be done.) > I should also mention that all of the work that he suggested would be > compliant with emissions regulations. Although all my street vehicles happen to be legal, I am very fortunate to live where there are no inspections. To me, if you're gonna put a cat on a hp engine, you might as well save your money in the first place and not bother doing anything. A cat implies that you also have your EGR and everything else in place, an that _sux_. (pardon my french) I may be wrong, but you take identical 1978 Celica's, and put $700 into one and keep it legal, and give me the other and let me do _free_ stuff, like taking all that crap off and doing some minor improvements, and I'll betcha I'll keep up or win any race you want to try. (and then I've still got $700 to do with as I please!) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 8 Mar 94 09:39:38 -0500 To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com From: roger@resunix.ri.sickkids.on.ca (Roger Smith) Subject: Re: corolla.jpeg: 85 Corolla GTS (British) > >I just had a look at some of the JPG's at the FTP site., specifically >the "corolla.jpeg: 85 Corolla GTS (British)" > >Now, can anyone tell me more about these? > >EG >Years made: Late '82 - early '85 ?? (Apparent local availability) >Engine: 4A / 2T?? (Rear wheel drive) >Engines that will fit it: 3TGTEU 4AG/4AGZE 7MGTE :-) (Hmm.. maybe not) > This model is actually called a Corolla GT outside north america, They were made from 84-87, and came with the 4AGE. The 3TGTE,4AGZE,(Mazda 13B rotary), 2TG, have made its way into these cars, of course some fits are easier than others.. >What's the story with the different body styles? Did the US/Canada have >these fixed headlights or the pop up ones only? >Also, ***Are the pop up light front panels interchangable with the >fixed headlight models, and ARE THESE PANELS THE SAME AS THE CELICA** > In Canada & US, it is called the Corolla GTS, and they also come with a 4AGE. They also only came with pop-up headlights. If you have ever seen these cars side by side (I have in Barbados), then you will notice that the corollas with the popup headlights have a lower sloping hood. (Something to do with headlight laws back then, and max/min height above the ground). In any event, you would have to change both fenders (1/4 panels), hood, lights, and front grille. It is possible, and nothing a good body work guy couldn't accomplish. -- Roger Smith | Research Computing Services, Software Development | The Hospital for Sick Children, Internet:roger@sickkids.on.ca | Toronto, Canada. (416)-813-5779 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: John Red-Horse Subject: Re: More Regarding that Blasted 22RE To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota-Mods Mailing List) Date: Tue, 8 Mar 1994 12:22:17 -0500 (EST) Chris Myer wrote: > > A few comments... > > Sometimes you gotta press RJ a bit for the details. He gives them > happily, but will just as happily make an off the cuff statement and let > you go off guessing. > I tried to do this, but he talks fast and I was taking notes... > OK, I stand ready to blaspheme the omniscient RJ (actually, I've > disagreed with him several times before) (*slander!*). Dual valve Critical consideration is *not* blasphemous (sp?). > springs are CRITICAL (IMHO) on any high performance engine. Not only do > they ensure that there is no valve float at high RPM by increasing the > seat pressure, but they also prevent harmonics. Its like this: Any > spring has a harmonic frequency. This is evident in a suspension spring > going down a washboard road. Ever notice that at some speeds the ride > gets so bad the car seems like its gonna explode (overshoot), and then > you can find another speed where it kinda smooths out a bit (float)? > That's fine on a washboard road, but in your valve train, you want the > valve to follow the cam lobe _exactly_. Double springs help ensure > this, by giving each valve two different harmonics. When one spring is > having trouble with the frequency, the other can be depended on. On the > other hand, it is a common fallacy to try to put too much seat pressure > on your valves, and that just steals I asked him to explain this point---and he did. He mentioned the points that you are citing, but he said that the resonance thing was overplayed. Further, he mentioned that there were two drawbacks (you touch on these as well): (1) increased cam wear, and (2) increased wear on the valves and valve seats. BTW, I forget the RPM levels that he was talking about, but I mentioned that one of my goals was to concentrate on lower-end torque. Perhaps this is why the spring resonance was not as much of a factor. > > Yeah, possibly. See what the folks at LC engineering suggest. They > base their recommendations on the carb/cam combo you have (which is how > it should be done.) > Good idea. > > I should also mention that all of the work that he suggested would be > > compliant with emissions regulations. > > Although all my street vehicles happen to be legal, I am very fortunate > to live where there are no inspections. To me, if you're gonna put a Here in Albuquerque (actually it's the entire county---I don't live in town) we're a borderline EPA region. We are always tested every couple of years, but (I believe) random vehicles can be tested on any given year. > cat on a hp engine, you might as well save your money in the first place > and not bother doing anything. A cat implies that you also have your > EGR and everything else in place, an that _sux_. (pardon my french) I > may be wrong, but you take identical 1978 Celica's, and put $700 into > one and keep it legal, and give me the other and let me do _free_ stuff, > like taking all that crap off and doing some minor improvements, and > I'll betcha I'll keep up or win any race you want to try. > I'm in no position to argue on this point, but I seem to remember a study done in California (I'm *certain* that it was in no way politically motivated :) that indicated that some fairly large portion of the pollution contribution came from pre-emission controlled cars (it was a big percentage) even though they made up a very small portion of the vehicle population (it was a very small proportion). So, for most of us, regulations or no, it's probably a good idea to leave the EGR, etc in-place. Note that I am not talking about an HP engine, I'm talking about a higher-than-stock-performance engine. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 8 Mar 1994 14:11:55 -0800 From: Joe Woodsprite To: jrredho@universe.digex.net, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: More Regarding that Blasted 22RE I'm in no position to argue on this point, but I seem to remember a study done in California (I'm *certain* that it was in no way politically motivated :) that indicated that some fairly large portion of the pollution contribution came from pre-emission controlled cars (it was a big percentage) even though they made up a very small portion of the vehicle population (it was a very small proportion). So, for most of us, regulations or no, it's probably a good idea to leave the EGR, etc in-place. Note that I am not talking about an HP engine, I'm talking about a higher-than-stock-performance engine. As I recall, what I read of this study (C&D refers to it often) 10% of the cars on the road produce 90% of the polution. These are the vehicles which are quite poorly maintained and/or past the end of their useful life. As an interesting side note, simply preforming a tune-up on most of these cars would reduce polution more than replacing 10 normal cars with electrics according to Car and Driver. A bit off the subject again, Woodsprite ******************************************************************************* ** * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite *** ** Looking for Julie, * * Unsafe at any speed *** ** Whereever I go. * I don't drive * *** ** --- * fast. * lantera@kira.csos.orst.edu *** ** I'll do what it * I fly low. * lanteran@xanth.cs.orst.edu *** ** takes to find her. * * *** ** * 72 Honda CB350 * *** ******************************************************************************* xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 9 Mar 94 16:22:55 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Carb Rebuilding Well, they've started inspecting our racing class pretty close lately, so I am figuring sooner or later they're gonna find my illegal Weber Carb. And when that happens, I want to have a "legal" one ready, so I started rebuilding the original carb that came with my 20R engine. In my usual "charge ahead and figure it out after you broke it style." Below is a bit of info so you won't have to break it first. On the stock carbs (made by Aisan, anyhow), the two screws that hold the round plates for the choke and the throttle speed adjustment are kinda "crimped" into place. That is, once they are screwed through the plate and into the twisting rod, the manufacturer buggers up the protruding end of the screw so that it won't vibrate loose and fall into your engine. Well, I didn't figure this out until on the last set, when the screw's head twisted off instead of backing out. Basically, this means I trashed the carb, unless I want to put in more time than the thing is worth trying to drill the hole out and tap some new threads into the rod. Nah. I've got another carb laying around, I think. Moral to this story: Don't try to remove the plates and linkage from the stock carbs unless you absolutely HAVE to. If you really feel it is necessary, us a small grinder on the end of a dremel tool or similar and clean up the end of the screw so it will back out and not twist the head off. Then, have some new screws handy, and don't try to put the same screw with the bugger'd up end bach in the rod. FWIW Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 09 Mar 1994 16:40:17 -0500 (EST) From: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu Subject: 4AGE mods To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com I am new to the list, please forgive me if it is a dump question. I want to try some low cost and easy to do mods on my 88 Corolla GTS to increase the preformance and power. What is the first step I can do? I received a catalog from TRD and the parts seem to be expensive. Thanks Simon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 9 Mar 94 17:13:25 HST From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: RE: Chris's Stock Carb Rebuild Typs Date: Wed, 9 Mar 94 16:22:55 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Carb Rebuilding >Well, they've started inspecting our racing class pretty close lately, >so I am figuring sooner or later they're gonna find my illegal Weber >Carb. (*gasp*) Chris Cheating !?!?!?! ;) >And when that happens, I want to have a "legal" one ready, so I >started rebuilding the original carb that came with my 20R engine. Chris.... try find a Datsun 210 or similar carb or even one from a Truck. The Asian carb's are all "universal" so to speak and the jetting is bigger on the Datsuns then the Toyota's. If all else fails... take a drill bit to the jets... sooner or later with ya "Progressive type carb" ya gonna have to do that when ya run out of jet sizing. >FWIW Eh ? Wot dat mean ? >Chris - Allen T "Koji" Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 09 Mar 1994 21:28:16 CST From: toymod@sysfjo.uucp@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com (Fred Oberbuchner) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Re: 4AGE mods >I am new to the list, please forgive me if it is a dump question. >I want to try some low cost and easy to do mods on my 88 Corolla GTS(4AGE). >What is the first step First off: Howdy! But who the heck are you? We are such a personal group around here that everyone (or maybe just me!) needs to know your name or we begin to feel lonely! Second: THANK GOD. Someone else with an 88 'Rolla GTS! I am no longer alone here! Lastly: What sort of range do you have in mind for "low-cost"? What area of the car did you want to tackle? Are you interested in performance or handling? (or cosmetics) Will you be doing the work yourself or having it done? Are you doing any of the "obvious" things like running synthetic oil and changing it every 5000km? How many km/miles on this car? Just for me: What color is it? What stereo? Stock aluminum rims? Did you buy it new or used? Spoiler? Details.....need details!!! (Yes, I positively LOVE mine!) If you're interested in what I did to mine, drop me some email and we can chat offline so I don't bore everyone with my car-worship! Regards, Fredo (a member of that oh-so-friendly bunch of coconuts we call the toyota-mods group!) ... Not much sleep LAST nite! ... (fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com) 88 Corolla GTS (CSP) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 9 Mar 1994 22:12:51 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Mods for my '86 MR2 (4AGE) To: Toyota Mods Mailing List Cc: MR2 Interest Mailing List Things seem quiet right now, so I'll ask a question many of you can help me with. (Ahhhh... nothin' like ending a sentence with a preposition) I'm planning to spend approx. Cdn$800 on engine improvements, and I'd like some opinions on what to do. NOTE: I'm not including new exhaust or disabling the EGR in said $800. (I'm doing both anyways... the exhaust may be a straight pipe with no cat' and a performance muffler of some kind) Thanx in advance... ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Thu, 10 Mar 1994 01:12:16 -0800 To: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: 4AGE mods On Mar 9, 4:40pm, SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu wrote: > Subject: 4AGE mods > I am new to the list, please forgive me if it is a dump question. > I want to try some low cost and easy to do mods on my 88 Corolla GTS to > increase the preformance and power. What is the first step I can do? > I received a catalog from TRD and the parts seem to be expensive. Coooooool, another Corolla/4AG modder. Come join us. Just out of curiosity what is your name. I am assuming Soong is last name? You will notice that this is a very diverse group... more like an international crowd. As for your mod questions what are you looking for? Better handling? There are alot of aftermarket springs, shocks, etc. out there. If you are looking for springs for more street applications give Eibachs a try. They are nice progressive rate springs and not only does it improve upon handling it also help reduce a need of a kidney belt. And if you wish a set of adjustable struts/shocks would come in handy just Koji (a.k.a. Allen Kam). Ask him about dating and suspension *ha ha*. For low buck power increase... a good exhaust system is quite effective. Take a look at some HKS stuff I have gotten great results from them. Help the engine breathe a little better and put a sh_t eatting grin from ear to ear. *haha* Did you receive a list of vendors to contact. It maybe an idea to look at other vendors as well. Got any questions... just post away. Laters, Allan Chen Silicon Graphics Inc. Mountain View, CA allanc@sgi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com, tomj@orl.mmc.com Subject: Re: Chris's Stock Carb Rebuild Typs Date: Thu, 10 Mar 1994 09:14:20 -0500 From: Tom Julien >>And when that happens, I want to have a "legal" one ready, so I >>started rebuilding the original carb that came with my 20R engine. > >Chris.... try find a Datsun 210 or similar carb or even one from a Truck. >The Asian carb's are all "universal" so to speak and the jetting is bigger >on the Datsuns then the Toyota's. If all else fails... take a drill bit to the Just a note, the 210 also uses a Hitachi carb, which won't help you much Chris, so take care in your selection. Good advice Koj- /************************************************************* Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com Engineer, Image Processing Lab Tel: 407-356-3442 Martin Marietta Corp. Fax: 407-356-8944 *************************************************************/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 10 Mar 1994 09:57:10 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: 4AGE mods To: Allan Chen Cc: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com On Thu, 10 Mar 1994, Allan Chen wrote: > For low buck power increase... a good exhaust system is quite > effective. Take a look at some HKS stuff I have gotten great results from them. > Help the engine breathe a little better and put a sh_t eatting grin from ear > to ear. *haha* > > Did you receive a list of vendors to contact. It maybe an idea to look > at other vendors as well. Got any questions... just post away. I'm considering a straight-pipe-to-performance-muffler-with-no-cat' setup in my 4AGE ('86 MR2). [note: to emmissions laws here... yet] How would this compare to an HKS system, in terms of performance? Also... any _muffler_ suggestions? (SuperTrapps are too expensive and I don't want something I have to fiddle with... and noise isn't an issue so long as it's within legal limits) Thanx... ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 10 Mar 94 13:21:37 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: 4AGE mods > I'm considering a straight-pipe-to-performance-muffler-with-no-cat' setup > in my 4AGE ('86 MR2). > [note: to emmissions laws here... yet] > > How would this compare to an HKS system, in terms of performance? > > Also... any _muffler_ suggestions? > (SuperTrapps are too expensive and I don't want something I have to fiddle > with... and noise isn't an issue so long as it's within legal limits) Get a Borla! (Ha ha, just kidding, I think those things go for about $500!) Seriously, if you are going to fart around with the exhaust (no pun intended) at least get yourself a good header. If you get the "no smog" kind, then you can rip out all of your EGR system as well! This will help you quite a bit. I have a report on mufflers at home. I'll try to get it and make a recommendation from it. They rated everything from Borla on down, and its amazing how close in performance a much cheaper muffler is to the big dollar types. Of course, the Borla has a million mile guarantee, and is a beautiful, cylindrical, stainless steel thing. But probably not worth $500 to the average Toy-Mod'er. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 10 Mar 1994 19:37:38 CST From: toymod@sysfjo.uucp@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com (Fred Oberbuchner) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Re: Mods for my '86 MR2 (4AGE) >From: Darin Ray Hamilton > >I'm planning to spend approx. Cdn$800 on engine improvements, and I'd >like some opinions on what to do. Drop the stock air-box and go to a cylindrical K&N. This will match nicely with your exhaust system. I did the cams in my 'Rolla (4AGE) and couldn't say that it was really worth the $$$ (unless you can do it yourself?). Experts: is a thinner head gasket (raised compression) maybe a good thing? probably cheap especially if you can do it yourself. Any possibility of finding the bits for a supercharged 4AGE at a wrecker somewhere? Someone once pointed out that if you get one that was in a head-on collision the engine should be darn near perfect (ahh, the novelty of a mid-engine!). Richen up the mixture (raise fuel pressure/adjust the return spring on the air-flow-meter) and get a juicier ignition system. Not sure how great these mods are but they will DEFINATELY add up to less than $800! There...now all we need are for the experts to grab/smash these ideas and run with them.....just thought I'd get the ball rolling! (Note: I am NOT an expert!) > >NOTE: I'm not including new exhaust or disabling the EGR in said $800. >(I'm doing both anyways... the exhaust may be a straight pipe with no >cat' and a performance muffler of some kind) I assume this will be a large-diameter (whatever that is...anyone?) pipe? I have heard some nasty things about the SuperTrapp CD muffies....something to do with constantly picking up your discs off the ground! > >Thanx in advance... > >...Darin Fredo. (ever come to Winnipeg, MB?) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Subject: Twin Carb Tuning - Howto. To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods) Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 14:01:14 +0800 (WST) Hi all. Got me a 2T-B here with twin carbs. Never messed with twin carbs before so I'm wondering: how the heck do I balance the two carbs? I hear the impact of having one carb set different from the other can be quite disastrous... (?) bentan '80 Celica (TA40/2T-B) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Dirk Sieber Subject: Ideas for '86 Celica GT-S To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Date: Thu, 10 Mar 94 22:20:08 PST Hi folks, Guess I should introduce myself... my name's Dirk, and I'm a pretty new addition to this list. Thought I'd finally get around to putting my $0.02 in... ;-) As it seems to be the question of the week, I too will ask for suggestions from all you folks who know better than me where I should start. I've got an '86 Toyota Celica GT-S in pretty good condition, with about 120,000kms on it. I'm looking at (hopefully) improving the performance a little, at (hopefully) a minimal cost. I'm a student, so I can't exactly afford to add thousands to the money I already spent on the car. ;-) At the moment, it's completely stock, aside from my going to slightly wider tires (215/60R14's instead of the stock 205's). I'm looking for suggestions to either get a bit more power out of it, or better handling (but preferrably the first before the second). Ideas or comments are welcome. I'm new to this sort of thing, as this is the first car I've ever owned, so even obvious things are welcome, as I probably don't know them. I've got access to all sorts of tools, and I'm reasonably mechanically adept, so I should be able to tackle reasonably simple things myself. As an aside, a guy I know in Vancouver once mentioned the possibility of turbo-charging the engine that's in the car. I realise this is probably an expensive option, and don't think I'd be doing it any time soon, but it still raised a few questions. What is that likely to do to the expected lifespan of the engine? What else would have to be modified/replaced, aside from the juggling needed to actually fit a turbo? Would you need to change the F.I. computer to deal with the change in air input, etc, or is it still within the bounds of the stock system? Is it generally a good or bad idea? ;-) Like I said, any comments are welcome, either to the list, or feel free to mail me direct. Thanks, -==- -- Dirk Sieber... dsieber@unixg.ubc.ca | This is a test... this is only a test Any similarities between what I say and | If this were a real emergency, we'd what I mean is completely coincidental | all be dead by now. :-) Amiga 3000/25 w/386 BB & 14.4k :-) | Flames cheerfully directed to /dev/null. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Subject: 2T(-B) Manual(s) - Wanted To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods) Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 14:23:25 +0800 (WST) Anyone know where I could get the manuals (racing manual, service manual, etc) for the 2T? bentan '80 Celica ST (TA40/2T-B) Stolen .sig follows: ________________________ ---- | | |-\_ ---- | | | |__\ \o/ ---- | |-| | | ^^OO^^^^^^^^^^^^^^OO^^^ O^^O^^ _/ \_ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 08:39:36 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: me/mine/mods (update) Our friend Ben in Singapore has gotten himself a new car to replace his smooshed Corolla. Hope you can avoid the trucks a bit better with this one! ----- Begin Included Message ----- Here's an update of my data since I signed on to toy-mods. Model: '80 Celica 1.6ST (least that's what we call it..) Chassis: TA40 Engine: 2T-B Mods: - Suspension Lowered - Large bore free flowing exhaust. But no extractor. - 60KV Coil (Bosch Supercoil) - 2 x K&N filters - Rear Spoiler (ok.. so this doesn't really count... ) Mods Very Soon to be done: - 4X (4+1) speed gearbox - Electronic Ignition Mods being Considered: - CAM (hi-lift) - sidedrafts - extractor for exhaust bentan ----- End Included Message ----- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Subject: CAM / Carb / Extractor - Which One First..? To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods) Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 22:28:21 +0800 (WST) Selamat Hari Raya (ignore.. traditional greeting in some parts of Singapore during this season) Got me a chicken and egg problem here. I'd like to do up the exhaust of my Celica with an extractor (it's already got a large bore, free flowing system), and I'd also like to dump the mini stock twin carbs to go for a pair of sidedrafts, and also (don't we all have long wish lists..) swap out the stock CAM for something with a little more lift. However, with the cost of mods being what they are, I can only do One of them at a time, with the expected delay between each being 2 months (unless something else financially draining comes up, or I manage to get some decent prize money from the coming kart race..) What I'd like to know is: Which goes first? I figure before the engine starts to blow more air than it already does (i.e carb/cam upgrade) I should make sure the air is gonna get out well. i.e. do the exhaust up with the extractor first. Right? Wrong? Maybe? But from here on, I'm lost. CAM before Carb: not enough Fuel-Air mix going in on hi-lift..? Carb before CAM: what's the carb feeding if the engine don't draw that much? argh! One more thing. Wonder if I'm gonna need to upgrade the fuel pump. Thanks for all the help so far. bentan '80 Celica (TA40/2T-B) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 09:52:17 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: CAM / Carb / Extractor - Which One First..? > Selamat Hari Raya (ignore.. traditional greeting in some parts of Singapore > during this season) Wha'sup, Homey? (Ignore...traditional greeting here in Florida) > Got me a chicken and egg problem here. I'd like to do up the exhaust of my > Celica with an extractor (it's already got a large bore, free flowing > system), and I'd also like to dump the mini stock twin carbs to go for a > pair of sidedrafts, and also (don't we all have long wish lists..) swap out > the stock CAM for something with a little more lift. However, with the cost > of mods being what they are, I can only do One of them at a time, with the > expected delay between each being 2 months (unless something else > financially draining comes up, or I manage to get some decent prize money > from the coming kart race..) > > What I'd like to know is: Which goes first? Ah, but a question first: What are you refering to as an "extractor"? Is this what I call a header? If so, you are already flowing quite a bit of exhaust with your free flow system. Keep in mind that a header isn't a do-all end-all performance optimizer. If you just take the muffler off of a stock exhaust manifold, you are already flowing enough, and adding a header will only fine-tune your performance. > > I figure before the engine starts to blow more air than it already does (i.e > carb/cam upgrade) I should make sure the air is gonna get out well. i.e. do > the exhaust up with the extractor first. Right? Wrong? Maybe? > > But from here on, I'm lost. CAM before Carb: not enough Fuel-Air mix going > in on hi-lift..? Carb before CAM: what's the carb feeding if the engine > don't draw that much? argh! Personally, I'd add things that will give me immediate bang for my buck. Since you have dual carbs already, I'd do the cam first, then the carb, then the header. Obviously your stock cam/carb combo isn't out flowing your free flowing exhaust. As a matter of fact you may be suffering a bit from too little back-pressure on the system (a concept I have proved to myself.) Additionally, a new cam will probably not go too far beyond your stock carb's ability to provide fuel/air mix. This means you can put the new cam in and use it immediately. A new header at this point won't do a thing, and if you believe in back-pressure, might even hurt you. A new carb at this point isn't going to put one bit more juice into the engine (probably.) Now, after you put the cam in and enjoy it while your finances are replenished, you can put on the carb. Yes, now your may be leaning on your stock manifold a bit, but probably not that much. Wait for more money, enjoy a bit more power, and then get the header. Voila', you' > One more thing. Wonder if I'm gonna need to upgrade the fuel pump. Yes, I have way over simplified the above. Take each upgrade one at a time, and get the details on them. 'Cause there are lots of details I've left out. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: jburney@argos.nodc.noaa.gov (Jeff Burney) Subject: Re: 4AGE mods To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota Mods) Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 11:09:33 EST > I'm considering a straight-pipe-to-performance-muffler-with-no-cat' setup > in my 4AGE ('86 MR2). > [note: to emmissions laws here... yet] > > How would this compare to an HKS system, in terms of performance? > > Also... any _muffler_ suggestions? > (SuperTrapps are too expensive and I don't want something I have to fiddle > with... and noise isn't an issue so long as it's within legal limits) TRD suggested and I went with a muffler from a supercharged MR2 ('88). Usual price is ~$128.00(US) but I got mine on sale for ~100. You will have to slot the flange on the muffler to allow direct bolt on to the stock cat or better yet, buy a generic cat for a 3.0 liter V6 then weld it all together. Anyway, the guy at TRD said it you only get about 3hp from an HKS muffler and I don't think that's worth $290. Jeff xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 14:50:26 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: New member Welcome Gord Law to our group... ----- Gord Law ----- Hi, I heard about your Toyota discussion group (from: roger@sickkids.on.ca) and am interesting in joining, he said to include the following information so here it is... ME: Gord Law Waterloo, Ontario, Canada LAW@PHYSICS.watstar.uwaterloo.ca MINE: was - 1974 Celica will be - ???? (something with a 4AGE engine) INTERESTS: 1 - modifying the 4AGE engine 2 - pro-rally Toyotas Thanks in advance, Gord ----- <> ----- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 15:23:53 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: new members Just a reminder... The basic new member policy determined by this group some time ago was that we would not "advertise" our existance to the 'net, but rather recruit our members as we saw folks on the regular Toyota group or on a newsgroup who seemed like good candidates. This was done to (first) to ensure that the majority of the members of this group are contributors and not full time lurkers and (secondly) to minimize the workload of the administrators. Tom Julien, in assistance to me, does all the list maintenance, including the user list. As the number of users goes up, so does the administrivia necessary to operate this list. Please, if you find someone who would be a good candidate for this list, let them know of our existance. We even have a recruiting-type form-letter that we can send you a copy of, which allows you to just drop the potential user a note with all the pertinent membership info already formatted. On the other hand, every so often somebody decides to "mention" our existance on one of the various lists or newsgroups. At that point, we are swamped with new user requests which Tom and I must administrate. We are willing and eager to do this because of our desire to see this list thrive. However, for myself, I must say that if you want to advertise our existance, I will view that as you volunteering to accept administrative responsibility for the list, which I will willingly offer. Let's ensure that our group remains the pure, tight, knowledgeable group it has been, and not just another information exploder. Recruit knowledgeable members, and leave the advertising to the other groups. BTW, I have had requests from folks building "lists of lists" to add our name to our listing. I have graciously denied these requests. If you see the Toyota-mods group listed on such a "list of lists", please either notify myself, or notify the compiler of the list that we request to be left off at this time. If the membership has had a change of opinion on this policy, please speak out at once, so that the policy can be revised. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 16:09:17 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Another New Member! Welcome Robert Taylor! ----- Robert Taylor ----- Name : C. Robert Taylor Location : Auburn, AL Model : 1988 4-Runner SR5 Engine : 3.0 V6 Mods : None at present. Considering Buick or Chevy V6 conversion, or perhaps one of the new, small V8 conversions. Previous experience with putting a 1992 Z28 Camaro (Corvette motor) 350 tpi, steering gear, rear end, etc., into an El Camino. (Z28 El Camaro?). email : rtaylor@ag.auburn.edu ----- <> ----- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: abuhr@raptor.eng.ufl.edu Date: Sat, 12 Mar 1994 15:01:43 -0500 To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com. Subject: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? Help! I just changed the spark plugs in my '90 Supra Turbo this morning (believe me, it's a real hassle), and now the car's backfiring! At least, I can hear muffled "" sounds coming out of the exhaust that weren't happening before. I assume that's backfiring. Also, isn't backfiring due to fuel igniting downstream of the cylinders, rather than in the cylinders as it is supposed to? Doesn't this mean that it's likely that the fuel is igniting in the turbocharger, since that's probably the first and warmest section downstream of the cylinders? If the fuel actually is igniting in the turbocharger, isn't it likely I'm going to blow my turbocharger to pieces? If I'm overreacting, feel free to give me a virtual slap, but I'm worried now... All advice is appreciated, and the sooner the better. Thanks. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 13 Mar 1994 10:53:12 CST From: toymod@sysfjo.uucp@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com (Fred Oberbuchner) To: raptor.eng.ufl.edu!abuhr@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? > Help! I just changed the spark plugs in my '90 Supra Turbo this >morning (believe me, it's a real hassle), and now the car's backfiring! >.... [stuff deleted] Did you get the same temperature plugs? (I don't know much about this plug temp stuff but that would seem the only thing I could think of). Possibly if not all of the fuel is being burned then the exhaust would contain significant amounts of unburned fuel? Pull a plug and look at it...if it appears "fouled" or black and gunky then this is probably what's happening. Either way, if the "explosions" sound bad enough I wouldn't drive the car until some of the other, more knowledgable guys get back to you. You did GAP the plugs didn't you? I suppose that could be a problem too..... Fingers crossed for ya! Fredo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Aaron Buhr" Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? To: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 08:05:14 +0000 (GMT) Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota Mods ML) > > Help! I just changed the spark plugs in my '90 Supra Turbo this > >morning (believe me, it's a real hassle), and now the car's backfiring! > >.... [stuff deleted] > > Did you get the same temperature plugs? (I don't know much about this > plug temp stuff but that would seem the only thing I could think > of). *sigh* Right now, that seems like it might be the most likely problem... I don't know if the non-turbo and turbo models use the same plugs, but the Bosch platinums I got were pre-gapped to .44 (.044?), which I think is what the non-turbo models use. Both the Haynes manual and the owner's manual said that the plugs needed to be .31 (.031?), so that's what I used. Also, the ones I pulled out were .31. Incidentally, they were pretty corroded, too. Anyway, I ended up re-doing the whole thing again on Sunday, double-checking everything as I put it all back together and I can't figure out what could be causing the problem. > Possibly if not all of the fuel is being burned then the exhaust would > contain significant amounts of unburned fuel? Pull a plug and look > at it...if it appears "fouled" or black and gunky then this is > probably what's happening. Either way, if the "explosions" sound When I pulled the plugs out to re-check the gaps they looked pretty clean still. > bad enough I wouldn't drive the car until some of the other, more > knowledgable guys get back to you. You did GAP the plugs didn't you? > I suppose that could be a problem too..... The backfiring's not like the stereotypical VW bug or anything, loud bangs and pops coming out the rear. It's just that every five or ten seconds the exhaust will "cough," with a muffled "whump" sound, accompanied by a brief burst of air from the exhaust. Quite often there will be a second, and sometimes third, smaller cough within a second afterward. I've been driving the car over the weekend and the backfiring doesn't seem to affect the car much at speed, but it does make the car noticeably shake and quiver at idle. I'll have to check to make sure the salesdroid gave me the right plugs. Any other ideas, anyone? Thanks for the help so far Fred and Gary. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary H To: abuhr@raptor.eng.ufl.edu, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 1:52:57 PST Aaron, You sure you got your plug wires back in order? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Aaron Buhr" Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? To: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca (Darin Ray Hamilton) Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 12:38:38 +0000 (GMT) Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota Mods ML) > Maybe your timing is off. (?) > Check that... it sounds to me like a cylinder may be misfiring. Is the timing human-adjustable on the 7M-GTE? The ignition's all electronic, as far as I know. I'll check out the Haynes manual when I get home. Thanks. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 09:02:33 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: Toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Muffler Mania Ok, so many folks asked for the muffler info I had that I decided I would post it to the whole group, and then put it on the Mosaic server for later access. Unfortunately, it is very long, so I am going to do it as a separate post. Look for that a bit later. First, let me talk a bit about my experience with backpressure. I don't have a dyno (yet) or anything like that, so my experiments have to do with real-time, on-the-road testing. Same sorta stuff you can do if you have a long, straight, low/no traffic road nearby. I took my 4x4 with the 22R out and picked such a road. I put the pedal on the floor, and found out how fast it would go in 4th gear (I go faster in 4th than in 5th, no big surprise.) Then, I unbolted the exhaust in front of the Catylitic converter. Did the same run again. NO CHANGE. Hmmmm... Then I flipped the breather cover over and let it draw unfiltered air. Same test. This time a coupla mph and rpm faster. Put the exhaust back on, left the breather cover upside down and tried again. No change from the last experiment. Put the breather back on right-side up and dropped back to my original top mph/rpm. Ah, repeatability. What does this tell me? Well, I mis-spoke last week when I said it implied the need for backpressure. (Sorry, its been about 3 years since I did this test and I had to re-remember my results.) It does imply that the biggest problem my stock engine has is not getting air _out_ of the engine, it is getting it _in_! I had said that I would work on the cam first, but I don't think it would be a mistake to get the new carbs first. I do, however, think that a cam and a low-restriction intake would make a bigger difference, however. Then, when you get around to putting those dual 40mm side drafts on, you will have everything in place to see a _huge_ difference. And until you do this, my feeling is that there is absolutely no reason to spend money on a header. In other words, (and check this for yourself) a header with a stock cam/carb is a total waste of money. Now, what about backpressure? Well, my mechanic buddies say it is critical. I am not a mechanical engineer, so I'm open to comments. When you see the muffler review, you will note that in some cases a higher backpressure leads to better horsepower numbers, and in some cases it doesn't. In nearly all cases, torque _increases_ with a muffler over an open exhaust pipe. In one case, horsepower increases by 1 with the Round Borla, which has 0 backpressure. I am not convinced, however, that the test engine, a naturally aspirated 430 hp RAT engine, gives the kind of data that is _always_ applicable to a 150 hp Toyota engine, or a turbocharged engine. (IOW, YMMV) :-) I am going to try to recreate the article as close as possible to the original, _without_ my comments. After it is posted, feel free to begin a thread of discussion on its data. I will say that after I read the article, I felt inclined to go with the cheapest one, a $30 Thrush Truck Tough muffler, which was also quiet and gave very good performance numbers. However that muffler doesn't _look_ nearly as impressive as the $300 Borla! For Koji, a glossary: IOW: In other Words YMMV: Your mileage may vary (and, from the other day...) FWIW: For what it's worth Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: derek_deeter@rainbow.mentorg.com (Derek Deeter) Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 08:58:37 PST To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? Have you made sure that you are actually getting spark at each plug? Once I bought some Champion resistor plugs that actually had no continuity between the terminal and the electrode. It may be difficult but can you take out each sparkplug and see if there is actually spark when you turn over the engine, or at least use a VOM to measure the resistance between the terminal and the electrode? Derek xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 10:30:07 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? To: Aaron Buhr Cc: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com, Maybe your timing is off. (?) Check that... it sounds to me like a cylinder may be misfiring. ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 09:32:13 PST From: lung@San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Aaron Lung) To: abuhr@eng.ufl.edu Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com } The backfiring's not like the stereotypical VW bug or anything, }loud bangs and pops coming out the rear. It's just that every five or }ten seconds the exhaust will "cough," with a muffled "whump" sound, }accompanied by a brief burst of air from the exhaust. Is *misfiring* a better word for this? When you say 'backfiring', I keep thinking it's popping out the tailpipe. If it's misfiring, check your distributer cap and rotor. Look for funny cracks or lines (carbon tracks) between posts that can cause the spark to go where it's not intended to. How about your wires? I've learned that even the smallest tear in the boot or insulation can cause misfiring problems even though you'd think they're OK. For kicks and grins, also check the resistance values of each wire. They should be fairly consistent among them. Stock wires are roughly 10Kohms/ft. aaron xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 10:44:37 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? To: Aaron Buhr Cc: Toyota Mods ML On Mon, 14 Mar 1994, Aaron Buhr wrote: > > Maybe your timing is off. (?) > > Check that... it sounds to me like a cylinder may be misfiring. > > Is the timing human-adjustable on the 7M-GTE? The ignition's all > electronic, as far as I know. I'll check out the Haynes manual when > I get home. Thanks. > > Aaron B. Just a word of caution for everyone: Don't take the Haynes manual as law written in stone. My 1985-1987 Toyota MR2 Haynes manual said that to replace the fusible links in my car, one must cut the link out of the wire it is contained in, and a new one must be souldered in its place. In fact, all of the fusible links in my '86 MR2 are _removable_ (like a standard fuse), and are located in the main fuse box. Just a point of interest. Anyone else had problems with Haynes? ...Darin (. )(. ) -------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###--- | Darin Ray Hamilton | | 4th year MIS (BComm) | | University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA | | e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca | ---------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 09:47:12 PST From: lung@San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Aaron Lung) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? Forwarded... ----- Begin Included Message ----- >From abuhr@eng.ufl.edu Mon Mar 14 09:41:13 1994 Subject: Re: Help! Backfiring going to blow up my turbocharger? To: lung@San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Aaron Lung) X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL21] Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 1552 X-Lines: 34 > } The backfiring's not like the stereotypical VW bug or anything, > }loud bangs and pops coming out the rear. It's just that every five or > }ten seconds the exhaust will "cough," with a muffled "whump" sound, > }accompanied by a brief burst of air from the exhaust. > > Is *misfiring* a better word for this? When you say 'backfiring', > I keep thinking it's popping out the tailpipe. Maybe so. Whenever I hear "misfiring", I think that the engine's just "missing". The reason I thought of backfiring was that there's a very noticeable puff of air coming out with the "", as opposed to just stumbling and having an erratic flow. > If it's misfiring, check your distributer cap and rotor. Look for funny > cracks or lines (carbon tracks) between posts that can cause the Full electronic ignition, no distributor cap and rotor. I may have to pull everything apart again and check all the electrical contacts. When I took it apart the last two times the plug wire contacts all looked like new, but it's possible I got some dirt or grease in there causing a bad contact. > spark to go where it's not intended to. How about your wires? I've > learned that even the smallest tear in the boot or insulation can cause > misfiring problems even though you'd think they're OK. For kicks > and grins, also check the resistance values of each wire. They should > be fairly consistent among them. Stock wires are roughly 10Kohms/ft. I'll check the wire resistances when I get home. Thanks for the tips. Aaron B. ----- End Included Message ----- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: Twin Carb Tuning - Howto. Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 14:39:58 -0800 From: danapple@vicor.com > "Benjamin T.P. Tan" writes: > twin carbs before so I'm wondering: how the heck do I balance the > two carbs? Something called a 'carb syncronizer' has two (or more) mercury filled tubes to measure the vacuum generated by each carb. Adjust the carbs until the mercury levels track the same. There may be more to do than this, however. > bentan > '80 Celica (TA40/2T-B) Dan. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 19:16:04 CST From: toymod@sysfjo.uucp@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com (Fred Oberbuchner) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list) Subject: Haynes Manuals (was: am I going to...) >Don't take the Haynes manual as law written in stone. That's for sure! >Anyone else had problems with Haynes? > >...Darin I seem to recall that the one (or was it Clymer? (sp)) for my 88 Corolla GTS had the firing order of the cylinders wrong (oooooooops). I had actually bought one of these suckers but fortunately noticed before I goofed anything up. Can anyone confirm this? I promptly took it back (a few years ago). Fredo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 15 Mar 94 07:56:00 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: New Member! Let's now welcome Richard Asano >>>>>Richard Asano<<<<< Name : Richard Asano Location : Sunnyvale, CA Model : 1976 Celica GT Engine : 20R Mods : Added rear anti-sway bar and beefed up front anti-sway (1") Model : 1983 Celica GT Engine : 22R-E Mods : None - belongs to my wife Model : 1992 SR5 4X4 p/u Engine : 3VZ-E Mods : No performance mods yet email : asano@rambus.com >>>>>Richard Asano<<<<< xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 15 Mar 94 09:54:02 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Nothern Cali Meeting of the Toyota Mod'ers Well, the National Guard is sending yours truly to beautiful Camp Roberts, California for 3 days of inspecting the California National Guard's Infomation Management Systems. As the Director of Information Management for the Florida National Guard's Camp Blanding Training Site, I must dutifully fly out, put on my green suit, and bring back lots of info. However, this doesn't mean that I can't flex my schedule a bit and meet some of the mod'ers in California. I have arranged to do an overnight stop-over in San Francisco, and Allan "Botoboy" Chen has graciously invited me to crash at his place. I was thinking it would be great if some of the other Cali members near SF could get together for an evening of food and merriment. Anybody interested? I fly into SF Airport at 6:00 pm on March 23rd, and hope to proceed quickly to some local eatery where we could meet. From there it is up to group concensus, but I think we probably should avoid O'Farrells, (based on Allan's over-enthusiastic description) in order to maintain our facade of conservative, genteel Christian-folk. Please let me know what you think. BTW, for you Southern Cali folk, If you want to drive up to Camp Roberts (near San Luis Obispo, in the absolute middle of nowhere) I would be excited to meet you in person and break bread. -- _ ____| \__ '82 4x4 Christopher P. Myer {_^____^_} (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com) @ @ (407) 725-8742 ___ Melbourne, Florida ____/ ||:. '81 Celica GT <_^___81_^__) @ @ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary H To: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Re: Nothern Cali Meeting of the Toyota Mod'ers Cc: allanc@sysop.corp.sgi.com Date: Tue, 15 Mar 94 7:51:43 PST >I have arranged to do an overnight stop-over in San Francisco, and Allan >"Botoboy" Chen has graciously invited me to crash at his place. I was >thinking it would be great if some of the other Cali members near SF >could get together for an evening of food and merriment. Anybody >interested? I fly into SF Airport at 6:00 pm on March 23rd, and hope to >proceed quickly to some local eatery where we could meet. From there it >is up to group concensus, but I think we probably should avoid >O'Farrells, (based on Allan's over-enthusiastic description) in order to >maintain our facade of conservative, genteel Christian-folk. Ah, Allan, I know this guy! My month stay in England is coming to an end. I should be back in Northern California on March 25, but I will probably suffer from jet lag when I get back. But I would like to get togehter with you and Allan. Haven't seen that boy in ages! I took myself off insurance so I won't be able to drive my crafty Celica on the 25th and my M3 is in Santa Cruz, but you're welcomed to look and sit inside :). Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 15 Mar 94 11:30:57 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: Regearing Koji and I have been having an excellent side discussion on the subject of regearing, and I thought I'd summarize some of the points made. As you know, Koji has always touted regearing as the best single investment for your car's performance. I have not always concurred, but I now think I understand where he's coming from and tend to agree. Basically, your stock setup (usually) has too much gear for your engine. Now, if you want to double your hp, then your gearing is probably fine. But get ready to spend _big_ bucks and (almost certainly) reduce reliability. On the other hand, if you want to see right-now improvements in performance, get your gearing more inline with your stock engine. For example, a fairly simple carb/cam/exhaust upgrade is gonna cost you around $1000 US, done right (That means new rockers, new springs, etc., but not counting labor.) This will get you about the same _usable_ low-end performance improvements as changing your gearing by about 15%, which will cost you about $400 (if you buy new) or less if you get lucky at a junkyard. Now, what about the tradeoffs? By regearing, you will raise the rpm at which your engine runs at a given speed. That means if you drive to work at x mph, your same trip at x mph will require you to run your engine 15% faster. (What used to bo 3000 now is nearly 3500.) If you overcorrect, your top end speed will drop. On the other hand, you will not be in trouble with the inspection folks, and all of your engine-stuff works the way it was supposed to work. (Neat concept!) All for less money. Now, I think there's something kinda wimpy about just regearing and not putting a big Holley quadra-jet double-over-pumper 1100 cfm carb on and a cam with 3.5" of lift or so, but it does kinda make sense. And, as Koji admits, if you do _both_, then you're really gonna have a monster on your hands! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Tue, 15 Mar 1994 08:55:52 -0800 To: Gary H , cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com, Subject: Re: Nothern Cali Meeting of the Toyota Mod'ers Cc: allanc@sysop.corp.sgi.com On Mar 15, 7:51am, Gary H wrote: > Subject: Re: Nothern Cali Meeting of the Toyota Mod'ers > >I have arranged to do an overnight stop-over in San Francisco, and Allan > >"Botoboy" Chen has graciously invited me to crash at his place. I was > >thinking it would be great if some of the other Cali members near SF > >could get together for an evening of food and merriment. Anybody > >interested? I fly into SF Airport at 6:00 pm on March 23rd, and hope to > >proceed quickly to some local eatery where we could meet. From there it > >is up to group concensus, but I think we probably should avoid > >O'Farrells, (based on Allan's over-enthusiastic description) in order to > >maintain our facade of conservative, genteel Christian-folk. > > Ah, Allan, I know this guy! Botoboy rides again... high ho humsup (myu trusty steed)... away!!! *ha ha* > My month stay in England is coming to an end. I should be back in > Northern California on March 25, but I will probably suffer from jet lag > when I get back. But I would like to get togehter with you and Allan. > Haven't seen that boy in ages! That's okay... nothing like a pot of good 'ol dark strong coffee to cure that jet lag problem *ha ha*. Just join us. > I took myself off insurance so I won't be able to drive my crafty Celica > on the 25th and my M3 is in Santa Cruz, but you're welcomed to look and sit > inside :). And to sit in it is quite sweet. Think of it as a German Toyota Corolla *ha ha*. Latas, Botoboy Chen p.s. My apology on this waste of bandwidth. It's too much fun to pass up. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 15 Mar 94 13:24:26 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: The Muffler Review I've Been Promising! Merrie Melodies by Jeff Smith (Abridged version totally without permission from a special "Engines" publication by Peterson Publishing Company) We'll save you the effort of fast forwarding to the back of this story to see who won by telling you now that we have not chosen an overall winner. No, we're not wimping out. With all the different evaluations performed, overall power was merely one criterion. We'll leave that decision up to you, since you're the only one who knows what you want! The Setup: The muffler's were assembled and tested at McFarland's SuperFlow Dyno, where the test was conducted. The test engine was a Mark V 7.4 Liter Chevy Rat Motor running 8.75:1 compression. Timing was set at 36 degrees total, and 92 Octane pump gasoline was used. The motor was outfitted with 30" Hedman Headers with 3.5" collectors and a Holley 4779, 750-cfm double-pumper carburetor. Two 21" pipes were used to take the place of mufflers in the baseline testing The Test: In order to maintain as much accuracy as possible, the Rat motor was baselined first with open headers, then rebased with the full exhaust system, minus the mufflers. High horsepower was determined for each muffler , as well as backpressure at 5000 rpm. After all tests were run, the motor was re-tested without mufflers to ensure that the motor had not lost power during the tests. It was determined that the testing was accurate to within 1.1% The Results: Muffler HP/TRQ BkPres SndPres Price Material Constr Weight =================================================================== Open Hdr 430/479 0 Not tstd Str. Pipe 419/467 0 115 AP XLerator 212212 411/469 1.95 105 ?? MS W 13.75 Borla 40595 (Oval) 419/474 0 114 291.61 SS W 9 Borla 40600 (Cyl) 420/474 0 112 291.61 SS W 10 Flowmaster 42550 HP 415/472 1.45 110 104.80 MS W 14 Hedman 25580 405/462 2.14 104 34.86 MS L 10 Hooker 21106 410/469 1.84 110.5 64.50 MS w/C L 10.5 Thrush CVX 46152 410/471 0 109 85.95 MS w/P W 11 Thrush Tough Truck Turbo 44132 413/473 1.45 103 30.81 AMS L 11 Thrush Sonic Turbo 45122 409/467 1.14 108 38.65 MS w/P L 10 SuperTrapp 5452519 400/461 1.43 112 179.95 SS W 7 Walker Super Turbo 17734 410/470 1.2 108.5 53.01 AMS L 9.75 Walker Hemi Super Turbo 17749 412/473 .9 100.5 59.64 AMS L 13.25 Key: ==== Materials MS: Mild Steel (P: Powder Coating, C: Ceramic Coating) SS: Stainless Steel AMS: Aluminized Mild Steel Construction W: Welded L: Lock-seam Note: SuperTrapp was tested with 12 diffuser disks. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 15 Mar 94 13:42:26 EST From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer) To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com Subject: A final note on backpressure... I left out a comment from the original copy of the muffler review I just sent. They stated that backpressure could be beneficial for tuning an engine for peak performance. Specifically, they stated that if you have an engine with too much valve overlap (ie, the exhaust and intake valves are open too long at the same time) a bit of backpressure would limit the amount of flow through the engine. I suppose they are saying that if the overlap is too great, you could actually flow fresh air/fuel mix out the exhaust valves. While it would seem like this is better than leaving burnt gases in the combustion chamber, (and probably it is,) when you steal air/fuel mix from the intake manifold, you are stealing from your carb/intake combo's ability to provide air/fuel mix, thus limiting your engine's power. I don't, however, think this was the case in the test in the article. I see absolutely no correlation between hp, (or torque) and backpressure, sound pressure, or price, for that matter. Actually, it would be nice to be able to put our engines on a dyno, run it at peak hp rpm, adjust the backpressure, and do a plot of hp & torque vs. backpressure. Hmmmm.... What'cha think? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 15 Mar 1994 18:20:08 -0700 (MST) From: Darin Ray Hamilton Subject: Re: Regearing To: Chris Myer Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com On Tue, 15 Mar 1994, Chris Myer wrote: > Koji and I have been having an excellent side discussion on the subject > of regearing, and I thought I'd summarize some of the points