^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ P O S T I N G S Apr 1994 ^^^
^^^ --------------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
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From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 94 00:39:06 HST
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Craig's Quest for Wheels !
On Mar 31, 5:47pm, Craig Pugsley wrote:
>> Subject: Interesting car hire in the US?
Aloha Craig ! From Down Under ? =)
>> I am going to the US on later this year for a holiday and was wondering
>> if ANYone can tell me if there are places in california or Hawaii
>> (Ted?) that hire 'interesting' cars (EG supra/ celica GT4/ porsche).
> What do you mean by hire? Do you mean as a rental? I do know of a couple
> of Rental places in Hawaii that do carry things like Lamborghini Contach
>& Diablo's, Ferrari 308, 328's, Daytonas (or kit car), Corvettes, and other
>popular exotic cars. The place is called Funway Rentals... Koji-san care to
>elaborate on this?
Heh... Sorta... I think you are looking for Japanese inports and in that case
you will be lucky to rent a 300 Twin Turbo Z or something. There are no
intrests in GT-4's (Celica All-Tracs) or Supras even. You can rent exotics
like Ferrari's, Lotus's, Vette's etc etc... geared toward the "Japanese"
market. I don't think the Toyota down here rents their cars out like
Nissan and a few other places do... I'll check how ever...
> As for California (atleast Northern Cal), I am all not that familiar.
> Aaron "Mr. Shiny", Gary "My Car feels good", or Phillip "Celica-boy"... care
>to supply some input?
Where and when are you going btw ? =)
Sorry also A lot of Porsche 911 Turbos etc etc...
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| Allen T "Koji" Kam tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu |
| Life Life... koji@io.soest.hawaii.edu |
| Taste Death... koji%interact.uucp@netcom.com |
| Speed is Pure !!!!! |
| Don't let up till you see RED !! 1980 Toyota Trueno SR-5 Sports Coupe |
| Advan Racing / HKS / MSD / SSR / Toyota Racing Development / Yokohama Tires |
| V-8's are a Blast...but i kinna gotta have to save GAS !!! |
| How SERIOUS do YOU wanna GET ??!?!?!! Sum times ya GADA pay the Price.... |
| Love is the only ting dat has 2 be earned... |
| Eberry ting else can be hacked ! - Reflex the Kismet Thief of Hearts |
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
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From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 94 01:00:47 HST
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Stuff.Backlog
Sorry I Can't respond to all the Mail I get these a days and 30 posts in
one day ! My my my ! No Waste of Bandwidth either ! =)
A Few points >I< noticed =)
First off "BB-Shotting" Your Emissions and such, the whole purpose is to
block the emission gasses reburning using a "bb" thus it is also easily
removeable for emissions once a year. Also you can hide such a modification
or compensate with timing and air fuel mixture to also pass emissions.
We don't have it here in Hawaii so I can't say it works on all Toyotas, but
from what I did work with in Nevada they do.
Second off... Someone said they were from Cali and moved to Nevada ? What
part in Nevada ? I used to goto UNLV and am going back in August or so...
Third off, about Gas Tanks and running "half tanks etc etc". For "Racing"
I do run a full tank of gas because of the "Sloshing" effect as noticed
or
commented already. However I did change my gas tank from the 10gallons to
a 5 gallon fuel cell for every day driving also. Actually its a 10 gallon
tank just shortened a bit to like 7 gallons I belive. I sorta forget. If I
need to run the full 10 gallon tank I have to take out a partician but this
I havent done in 2 years so -shrug-. Anyway I run about 5 Gallons of Gas and
get about 175 miles out of it. I even went so far as 225 one day. I drive an
adverage of 150 miles a day (FYI).
It has been noticed that Toyota bodyweight works best or most efficient starting
from 3/4 tank like on a 1988 GTS a test was done. A Full tank had the longest cruising range yes, but the car starting with 3/4 tank got the best performance and was only like 1 gallon "behind" in terms of ratio performance mpg.
Anyway... for racing purposes.. full tank else you do sputter or the weight
being thrown around like is spinning around holding a 10 gallon gas tank in
your hands.
I do race with 1/2 tank although cause my car is balanced 50/60 ratio as
with a SW-11 or MR-2's due to the gas tank being in the middle of the car.
Fouth off, about moisture in the gas. I use this thing Called "Mix-i-Go" its
a fuel additive and works the best to me. It reduces the water out and
gives ya a "slight" performance value. I recommend it.
Fifth off, anyone Played Ridge Racer ? They have a Virtua Indy in Las Vegas
that I wanna play. Ridge Racer is realistic however I have problems with the
set up of the car and its shiting gate. Anyway....
Oh... exhaust... someone wanted some exhaust for their car like cheap.
I would recommend going to some muffler shop you trust and getting like
well for what car also. Anything 4cyl non turbo go with a 1 1/2 pipe into
like a 1 1/2 inlet cherrybomb glasspack type muffler with a 1 3/4 outlet
into a short pipe going into another 1 3/4 type glasspack with a 2 inchoutlet
or something with a scavvaging effect. You gain horsepower and keep your
max flow with backpressure this way. If you do run dual exhaust on your
non turbo 4 then this is the way to go. Actually with all exhausts just
the starting pipes grow bigger and the end end bigger =)
Anything else I 4 -got ? oh welps..
Catch ya on the flip side all...
-Koji
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 94 08:11:01 EST
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Stuff.Backlog
> Third off, about Gas Tanks and running "half tanks etc etc".
> ...and then...
> I do race with 1/2 tank although cause my car is balanced 50/60 ratio
as
> with a SW-11 or MR-2's due to the gas tank being in the middle of the
car.
I balance the car with the fuel tank as well. My Circle-Track Celica
performs much better on a "full" tank of gas. Of course, my tank is a 6
gallon boat tank move to the wheel well. I've run the thing completely
out without having a problem with sloshing (very cheap but effective
pickup), but the added weight on the left rear helps hold the car in the
turns!
> Fifth off, anyone Played Ridge Racer ? They have a Virtua Indy in Las
Vegas
> that I wanna play. Ridge Racer is realistic however I have problems
with the
> set up of the car and its shiting gate. Anyway....
Been there, done that. :-) (Allan, this is the one I was telling you
about when I was in SF.) I thought the graphics were excellent, but,
once again, it doesn't "feel" like you're driving a car. I found it
very hard to control, and it tended to drift left of where you were
aiming it (even if the centrifugal force should have pulled you to the
right.) I had the same problem with that "Hard Drivin'" (appropriately
named) game. They were touting themselves at the most realistic driving
simulation game ever, and while they put some feedback into the steering
wheel, it still didn't drive like a car. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure
that you can learn to "drive" these simulations. Its just that I have
this basic concept that anyone who has driven a car for more than 15
years should be able to hit the start button and maneuver around the
track without sliding into a wall or driving off of a bridge.
Now "Virtua Racing" is a little more like it, to me. I prefer the
single seat version. It seems to handle much better than the dual seat,
and it has the air bags that inflate on the sides and back to simulate
g-forces. BTW, the single seat version costs a buck a shot, and it
_can_ be networked with other single seaters to give you the one-on-one
feel. Even if you aren't a video gamer, you should try this one. It's
the closest thing you'll get to racing an Indy car without spending
about a million dollars.
Chris
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From: lupienj@wal.hp.com
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 94 16:17:28 EST
To: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Stuff.Backlog
> However I did change my gas tank from the 10gallons to
> a 5 gallon fuel cell for every day driving also.
Ah yes, the fuel cell - the only real benefit I can think of that we
got for having helicopters shot out of the sky over Viet Nam. The
bullet proof fuel containers developed for military operations turn
out to be a really dandy solution to the problem of fuel containment
under challenging motorsports conditions. Plus, the open cell foam they
fill them with almost eliminates the slosh problem. Another thing on
my long list of "I'll-get-to-it"s.
--
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 94 16:36:40 EST
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Stuff.Backlog
> Ah yes, the fuel cell - the only real benefit I can think of that we
> got for having helicopters shot out of the sky over Viet Nam. The
> bullet proof fuel containers developed for military operations turn
> out to be a really dandy solution to the problem of fuel containment
> under challenging motorsports conditions. Plus, the open cell foam
they
> fill them with almost eliminates the slosh problem. Another thing on
> my long list of "I'll-get-to-it"s.
Uhhhh, are the "bullet-proof" or are they self-sealing (or is that what
you meant?) We have an AH1 Cobra sitting in our lab, and it has a
self-sealing fuel cell or something like that.
Chris
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From: jdunhaa@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 1994 20:47:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Paeco comments?
To: Jeff Burney
Cc: Toyota Mods , mr2-interest@validgh.com
On Thu, 31 Mar 1994, Jeff Burney wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just received my first Paeco catalog and spent the night dreaming
> of new engine mods for my '86 MR2. Their off-season engine pricing
> ... deleted the rest...
Who is Paeco and where in the he.. do I get one of their catalogues?!?!
John Dunham
jdunhaa@eis.calstate.edu
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From: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 1994 15:17:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 4AGE Mods
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Thank you for all the response regarding the mods of my car. Now I have
make up my mind.
Here is my plan :
1. Change the stock air filter to a K&N one.
2. Change the muffler and remove the catalystic converter.(Does this violate
the law?)
3. Change the springs. (Someone recommend Eibachs - Any opinion?)
Any suggestion is mostly welcomed!!!
Simon ^_^
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 1994 15:15:29 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: 4AGE Mods
>1. Change the stock air filter to a K&N one.
Good move!
>2. Change the muffler and remove the catalystic converter.(Does this violate
>the law?)
This REALLY depends on the laws in your local area. Around here, I would
contact the Department of Motor Vehicles and ask about emissions inspections
and stuff like that (if i didn't know). Around there ....... ??? Maybe
someone else will have an idea.
>3. Change the springs. (Someone recommend Eibachs - Any opinion?)
>Any suggestion is mostly welcomed!!!
I have Suspension Techniques and am happy with them. I have also heard
many good things about Eibachs. (Gee...aren't I helpful!)
>Simon ^_^
Luck,
Fredo
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From: garyh@sco.com
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Mitcom
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 10:44:47 PDT
Does anyone know what happened to Mitcom (aka Prototype Plastics, Inc)? I
am in need of a replacement front airdam and passenger side skirt.
Thanks,
Gary
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 13:55:45 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: New Member!
Welcome now Steven Jackson to our esteemed group. As you can see from
his me/mine/mods below, Steven is pretty serious about autocrossing his
MR2. Any initial ideas from our autocross gurus? Unfortunately, one of
our 4AGx gurus is on haitus right now (Roger) and will hopefully have
some stuff to add when he returns. Once again, welcome!
>>>>>Steven Jackson<<<<<
Name : Steven Jackson
Location : Cambridge, MA
Model : 1988 supercharged MR2, with t-roof
Engine : 4A-GZE
Mods : None
Just bought the car last November. Wanted a fun everyday car to
autocross on
weekends. The MR2 seemed the perfect platform for my needs and wants:
relatively light weight, engine in the right place, Chapman strut rear
suspension, disk brakes all around, wonderful, high-revving four-valve
twin-cam
four. What else could I ask for? Handling, braking and cornering power
are the
most important elements of a car for me, so I plan to make modifications
to
enhance these things. Though I thought I didn't want it when I was
looking for
MR2's last fall, I'm really glad I got the supercharged car. The
supercharger
on top of an already efficient engine, is almost all the engine
performance I
need -- at least for a while. It develops lots of power and torque
through a wi
de engine speed range. I like it. And looking into mods, the 4A-GZE can
produce
prodigious torque and hp with a relatively small number of easy-to-do
changes.
First, though, chassis. Handling performance is my passion. The only
time I
increase engine performance is when it's limiting the handling dynamics
of the
car. I'm planning to run mostly SCCA Solo events, and primarily want to
have
fun, rather than go to the nationals. Chassis mods are straightforward
(adjustable damping shocks, uprated springs on adjustable perches,
adjustable
front and rear sways, urethane bushings here and there, stainless steel
braided
brake lines, some interesting brake pad material, etc.) except for
geometry.
The stock settings aren't desirable. The car understeer plows worse than
almost
any other high-performance front wheel drive car I have driven. But
what's more
disconcerting is the unprogressive way the car transitions from
understeer to
oversteer. This I could use some help sorting out. I've talked with
Toyota
Racing Development in CA, and of course they mentioned that this would
have to
be changed for racing, but they didn't tell me what setting I might want
to try.
I also own two pristine TVR's, a '76 2500M, and an '85 280i, both of
which are
toys, and only see a couple thousand miles/year, if that. The "M" is
currently
autocross ready and will be preparing the 280i, probably throughout this
summer. These cars a much more difficult to sort since they are so rare,
and so
little topnotch development was done on them either by TVR or third
parties,
making good information hard to find. You've got to do everything
yourself,
like calculating spring rates, roll centers to evaluate the stock
geometry,
etc. I also own a '67 Lotus Elan S3 roadster. This car is the opposite
of the
TVR's in that there's a wealth of great technical information about this
very
pretty, very fast, very entertaining, but fragile car.
I am still learning about the MR2, particularly the supercharged car
(this is
the first forced-induction car I've every owned). But tech is definitely
where
I'm at. In fact, I came to the realization that it's time to start
thinking
less as an engineer, and more as a driver. I did well at the Skip Barber
Intro
to Racing a couple of years ago, but this will be the first season I
plan to
race regularly. I'd love to share what I know and learn with others, and
get
assistance from those folks who like to do the same
>>>>><<<<<
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From: lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 10:56:22 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: K&N filters
Looks like a lot of you guys/gals have been using
K&N filters for obvious performance improvements.
Appologies if this is a stupid FAQ, but does anyone
know if the improved airflow through the K&N filters
comes at the expense of decreased filtration efficiency?
There are two ways that I can think of to get more
air across a filter membrane for a given pressure drop
assuming all else being unmodified: More surface area or
decrease the filtration efficiency by using a less fine
filter 'mesh'
thanks,
aaron
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From: lupienj@wal.hp.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 14:02:22 EDT
To: Chris Myer ,
Subject: RE: fuel cells
> Uhhhh, are the "bullet-proof" or are they self-sealing (or is that what
> you meant?) We have an AH1 Cobra sitting in our lab, and it has a
> self-sealing fuel cell or something like that.
Well, the best of them ARE bullet-proof in the same sense as
"bullet-proof vests" are bullet-proof - they will deflect or
stop small-arms fire without sustaining a puncture. For magnum
rounds, high caliber, or rifle fire there are no such guarantees,
but as it turns out my track vehicle is not often exposed to
hostile weapons targeting. The self-sealing feature sounds very
interesting! Please post more info...
--
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
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From: garyh@sco.com
To: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: 4AGE Mods
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 11:05:02 PDT
>Thank you for all the response regarding the mods of my car. Now I have
>make up my mind.
>Here is my plan :
>1. Change the stock air filter to a K&N one.
Phillip Dang has done this mod to his 87 Celica and mentioned he did notice
a difference in the shifting points on his auto tranny.
>2. Change the muffler and remove the catalystic converter.(Does this violate
>the law?)
In California it does.
>3. Change the springs. (Someone recommend Eibachs - Any opinion?)
>Any suggestion is mostly welcomed!!!
I have Eibachs for my M3 and they are wonderful. Lowers the car about 1" from
stock.
Yesterday, my friend and I were comparing our M3s and he said my car is
*alot* stiffer than his. He push the front end of his car and it gave a
little, then he walked up to my car and push the front end, but it barely
moved so he used both hands to push it, but it still was a bit hard to budge
the car.
Gary
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 14:18:58 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: EGR valves and such
I don't have anything intelligent to add to Derek's dissertation on EGR
valves and such, but I did want to re-emphasize (and possible clarify)
something he pointed out with respect to getting your car to pass
emmissions.
> Derek wrote:
> As for passing emissions without the control stuff, it gets more and
more
> difficult the newer the car is. On the older cars, (pre '74) it
wasn't too
> hard to pass by leaning out the idle mixture, retarding the timing
> (running the risk of overheating), and setting the idle RPM to as high
> as allowable (1000-1100 RPM). Car would drive like crap, but it
passed.
> You can also do this on newer cars which have been modified - but I've
found
> you still have to have all the other stuff in place, because each
system
> adds it's part in reducing emissions, and it really shows up on the CO
and
> HC meters when one of them is missing.
First the clarification. I thing it's advance timing, isn't it? That
is, you want to make it as far before top dead center as possible. At
least that's what I thought, and _advancing_ your timing is what causes
overheating. Retarding it usually allows more unburned gas to pass out
the exhaust, but it runs cooler. Good point though. Everybody note
however: Do this about a block away from the inspection place, and then
replace it as soon as you leave. If you lean-out your air/fuel mixture
(either by jetting on your carb or by other means on EFI) and advance
your timing, you are gonna get hot Hot HOT! If you run hard this way
you could easily overheat and bust a piston. This is bad as in not
good.
Also, I would re-emphasize Derek's point about replacing stuff. If
you've blocked your EGR, unblock it. If you've removed (or are planning
on removing) your caty converter, replace it with a straight pipe so you
put it back in for the inspection. However, I am relatively sure that
if you are running lean with your timing advanced, idle up, and your cat
in place, you will pass pretty much any inspection, even if you've
gutted your air-injection system.
Oh, and as always, I am not recommending that any of you break the
emmissions control laws in your area. Merely pointing out some facts of
mechanic'n.
Chris
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From: bahrr@pictel.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 14:49:48 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: cEGR valves and such
Sorry about the digression, but to help pass emissions the folowing
has helped me ( it would seem that on a number of my cars the cat has
fallen off, or developed large holes though the honeycomb and the EGR has
gotte mysteriously disconnected/blocked....):
o Change the oil - this helps A LOT!!
o tune up including the ignition stuff - wires if > 2years old
pcv valve also important!
o Let the gas tank get REAL low ~3 gals
o Add LOTS of gas line conditioner - really alcohol
o advance the timming up to the point of detonation OR
the idle drops whichever comes first.
o get the engine as HOT as possible - drive for 15-20 min high
rpm
o and as a last resort remove the air filter element - only
for as long as you need to.
OR you could leave it stock!!
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 15:02:12 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: fuel cells
> Well, the best of them ARE bullet-proof in the same sense as
> "bullet-proof vests" are bullet-proof - they will deflect or
> stop small-arms fire without sustaining a puncture. For magnum
> rounds, high caliber, or rifle fire there are no such guarantees,
> but as it turns out my track vehicle is not often exposed to
> hostile weapons targeting. The self-sealing feature sounds very
> interesting! Please post more info...
Yep, I just checked and it says "self sealing". I was tempted to jab it
with a knife and see what happens, but I didn't want to get in trouble.
(Or let any more fumes into the lab than already exist in there! The
Army sends us a helicopter with fuel cells full of JP4 fumes! Can you
say "Boom"?)
Actually, the cell itself is like a square, soft plastic thing.
Probably 125 Gallons or so, 61.5 pounds (a wee tad heavy for most race
cars.) I don't know anything more about it than that. We are wanting
to get the cell out of the aircraft, but its kinda a big deal, however
when we do I'll fully dissect/inspect it and let you know what I find!
Chris
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From: do@etdesg.trw.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 12:17:02 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N filters
>
> Looks like a lot of you guys/gals have been using
> K&N filters for obvious performance improvements.
>
> Appologies if this is a stupid FAQ, but does anyone
> know if the improved airflow through the K&N filters
> comes at the expense of decreased filtration efficiency?
>
> There are two ways that I can think of to get more
> air across a filter membrane for a given pressure drop
> assuming all else being unmodified: More surface area or
> decrease the filtration efficiency by using a less fine
> filter 'mesh'
>
> thanks,
>
> aaron
>
I switch to a K&N filter in my 4WD truck because they can be cleanned.
I was using the FRAM filter and they got clogged up w/ dirt real
quick. I had to replace the FRAM filter after everytime I took my truck
out to play in the dirt otherwise the truck would run like *CRAP* 'cause
the filter wasn't flowing any air. I also noticed some dirt around the air
cleaner base meaning the filter wasn't doing it's job. Since I switched to
K&N, the truck has been in the dirt a few times. I haven't had to clean
the K&N yet since the truck runs fine and I've also noticed less dirt
around the air cleaner base. Remember, the dirt and dust the K&N filter
sees off-road is much finer than the dirt and dust on a paved road. So
I gotta say the K&N is doing its job much better than the FRAM filter.
God, this sounds like an info-mercial!
Louis
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From: danapple@vicor.com
To: lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com (Aaron Lung)
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N filters
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 94 12:37:33 -0700
> lung@San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Aaron Lung) writes:
> Appologies if this is a stupid FAQ, but does anyone
> know if the improved airflow through the K&N filters
> comes at the expense of decreased filtration efficiency?
According to the K&N ads, the oil filtration method filters out more
smaller particles than the paper filters.
> There are two ways that I can think of to get more
> air across a filter membrane for a given pressure drop
> assuming all else being unmodified: More surface area or
> decrease the filtration efficiency by using a less fine
> filter 'mesh'
What if you use more surface area but a finer mesh? I presume that's
what an oil filter accomplishes.
> thanks,
> aaron
Dan.
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From: lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 12:44:15 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N filters
Louis sez:
} I had to replace the FRAM filter after everytime I took my truck
}out to play in the dirt otherwise the truck would run like *CRAP* 'cause
}the filter wasn't flowing any air. I also noticed some dirt around the air
}cleaner base meaning the filter wasn't doing it's job. Since I switched to
}K&N, the truck has been in the dirt a few times. I haven't had to clean
}the K&N yet since the truck runs fine and I've also noticed less dirt
}around the air cleaner base. Remember, the dirt and dust the K&N filter
}sees off-road is much finer than the dirt and dust on a paved road. So
}I gotta say the K&N is doing its job much better than the FRAM filter.
Ah, but this is precisely what the filter is supposed to do! Right?
If it isn't gettin plugged with dirt, the dirt must going somewhere else!
Like into the intake :-( If the K&N is really filtering better than
the FRAM's, I'd think you'd *have* to clean it *more* often unless it
has more surface area to spread the dirt.
Phillip aka 'celica boy' :-) sed that one doesn't need to clean a K&N
for over 40Kmiles(?) I have to replace my FRAM's every 10K or so.
They get pretty dirty from street driving in just a few months,
but this is in San Jose, where you can see the air yer breathing (yucks)
Opinions?
aaron
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From: do@etdesg.trw.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 13:39:07 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N filters
>
> Louis sez:
> } I had to replace the FRAM filter after everytime I took my truck
> }out to play in the dirt otherwise the truck would run like *CRAP* 'cause
> }the filter wasn't flowing any air. I also noticed some dirt around the air
> }cleaner base meaning the filter wasn't doing it's job. Since I switched to
> }K&N, the truck has been in the dirt a few times. I haven't had to clean
> }the K&N yet since the truck runs fine and I've also noticed less dirt
> }around the air cleaner base. Remember, the dirt and dust the K&N filter
> }sees off-road is much finer than the dirt and dust on a paved road. So
> }I gotta say the K&N is doing its job much better than the FRAM filter.
>
> Ah, but this is precisely what the filter is supposed to do! Right?
> If it isn't gettin plugged with dirt, the dirt must going somewhere else!
> Like into the intake :-( If the K&N is really filtering better than
> the FRAM's, I'd think you'd *have* to clean it *more* often unless it
> has more surface area to spread the dirt.
>
> Phillip aka 'celica boy' :-) sed that one doesn't need to clean a K&N
> for over 40Kmiles(?) I have to replace my FRAM's every 10K or so.
> They get pretty dirty from street driving in just a few months,
> but this is in San Jose, where you can see the air yer breathing (yucks)
>
> Opinions?
>
> aaron
>
Aaron,
The fact that I see **LESS** dirt/dust around the air cleaner housing w/ the
K&N filter means that it is filtering better than the FRAM. The fact that I
don't have to clean it after every off-road run means it flows better than
the FRAM. I am not familiar w/ the technical aspects of the K&N design making
it flow better and trap dirt better than the ordinary paper filters. I only
rely on the facts I observed when using it. But of course, I've been wrong
before (:-)
Louis
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From: derek_deeter@rainbow.mentorg.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 94 15:53:42 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: EGR valves and such
>First the clarification. I thing it's advance timing, isn't it? That
>is, you want to make it as far before top dead center as possible. At
>least that's what I thought, and _advancing_ your timing is what causes
>overheating. Retarding it usually allows more unburned gas to pass out
>the exhaust, but it runs cooler.
This brings up an interesting point. Now, I know that on older cars,
you _do_ have to retard the timing (where the mixture ignites after TDC)
- you want that mixture just about burning on the way out the exhaust
to minimize those unburnt hydrocarbons. Note that this is at idle only.
And the idle turned high so as to get the best possible vaporization of
mixture.
If you ever look at a table of engine specifications over the years from
70-74, you'll see that initial timing specs became more and more retarded
as the years progressed, with some cars even spec'd ATDC! My F*rd
engine had a special distributor retard for idle only - it retarded the
timing about 5 degrees (to about TDC), however, once you got
going, the retard went away.
Now, after '75, with the advent of EGR, Air injection, catalytics, etc.,
it may be better to advance timing so as to get enough unburnt hydrocarbons
to keep that catalytic lit up and converting those exhaust gases. What
vintage were the cars that needed advanced timing?
Chris is right about the overheating aspect, however I seem to vaguely
remember that you can also overheat when you retard timing and
at the same time also lean out the mixture. That's why some
smog systems have a temperature vacuum switch, so that when
idling for extended periods, and the engine starts to get too hot,
the switch cuts off vacuum timing retard until the engine cools down.
I do agree that if you retard timing with no change in mixture, the
engine will run cooler and dirtier.
On another note, I modified my '79 D*dge RV, which has no catalytics, with
manifold, carb, cam and headers, removed the air injection system, and
there was no way it would pass, even with the carb leaned out; however
with the stock exhaust and air injection back on, plus retarded timing,
it passed fine. Kinda makes one wonder if that air injection really burns
unspent fuel, or dilutes the exhaust with more air, or possibly
both? At least it really seems to help on an 8 cylinder.
In the end, I think it's a lot easier to pass a 4 cylinder than an 8, as
I've really never had any problems passing any of my 4 cylinder cars, i.e.,
with the smog stuff on. Another reason to make your mods non-permanent
is that you may want to sell the car someday, and some states make smog
testing mandatory upon sale of the car. It's always best to call up
your local smog test place to find out beforehand to find out what
they expect.
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 1994 22:49:02 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: K&N filters
>Looks like a lot of you guys/gals have been using
>K&N filters for obvious performance improvements.
You betcha!
>Appologies if this is a stupid FAQ, but does anyone
>know if the improved airflow through the K&N filters
>comes at the expense of decreased filtration efficiency?
There is no such thing as a stupid FAQ on this list!
From what I have seen, people seem to be able to argue
this both ways. Personally, I am running a K&N and have
no concerns about filtration. Given a choice between the
K&N and a PowerFlo or other foam-type filter, the K&N wins
hands down in my books. The way I figure it is that a DRY
K&N will NOT filter as well as a paper filter. An oil-
impregnated K&N (as they all are) I feel will make up for
the "decrease" in filtering ability by using the oil to
trap particles (as someone else mentioned). I do remember
seeing somewhere some STRONG advice that stated if you
offroad alot where the dust is finer it will tend to "dry"
the oil much faster and you should re-oil periodically even
if you don't clean the filter. This would support the argument
that the dry filter is not a good filter and it NEEDS the
oil to filter properly.
>aaron
I guess the bottom line from me is: If you are not convinced,
stick to what you are comfortable with (maybe go to a larger
paper filter). A friend of mine always autocrossed his
RX7 TurboII with NO air filter at all. Then he put on a
power-flo and was quite happy and felt comfy-safe. You decide!
Regards,
Fredo
P.S. Did Roger ask anyone to keep TM messages for him in his
absence?
P.P.S. Should I drop the extra cash to put my car on the road for
April or wait 'till May? (This is Winnipeg.....It snowed on
the weekend!)
(Gee... I don't sound like I'm asking someone to twist my
rubber arm, am I?????)
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 94 16:36:18 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N filters
> There is no such thing as a stupid FAQ on this list!
Gosh Fred, I'm not sure how to take that! :-)
>Long discussion of paper vs. K&N deleted...
For me, I think the advantage of the K&N is that you can cheaply clean
it every week or two, as opposed to replacing a paper filter. That is
why I run an Oberg remote oil filter. I can pop that screen out at
will, jet it down with some carb cleaner, scrub it clean with some
detergent, and pop it back in. Completely clean filter at no $$
output. Someone said something about running a K&N for 40,000 miles.
(*Cringe!*)
> P.S. Did Roger ask anyone to keep TM messages for him in his
> absence?
We (Tom, actually) archive all the messages anyhow. Hopefully Roger
will return again soon, and the archived messages will be there for
him.
> P.P.S. Should I drop the extra cash to put my car on the road
> for
> April or wait 'till May? (This is Winnipeg.....It snowed on
> the weekend!)
> (Gee... I don't sound like I'm asking someone to twist my
> rubber arm, am I?????)
Fred, this is Florida...It snowed here just after the Mesozoic/Jurrasic
period I think. Catch the clue. Move where you can drive like an idiot
year 'round! (Seems like most people here do, anyhow!)
Chris
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 94 16:59:55 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: New Member
Oops! kinda late introducing this new member, kinda slipped between the
cracks. Things are kinda busy for me now, which is infinitly better
than the alternative! (Sorry John....)
>>>>>John Daker<<<<<
Name : John R. Daker
Location : Lancaster, CA (SoCal)
Model : 1984 Celica GT-S
Engine : 22-RE
Mods : K&N, Dobi exhaust
email : jrd@po.cwru.edu
Red Hatchback with 142,000+ miles is very good condition. Downsized to
BFG
VR's, 215/60-14. I'm mostly just interested in hearing what this list
has
to say. I do auto-x it occasionally, and if I keep it I'd like to
improve
the handling. My only real disappointment with the car is the lack of
power.
>>>>><<<<<
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From: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 1994 20:07:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 4AGE mods (Phone no. and Parts no. need)
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Does anybody have the phone no. of Eibachs (spring) and Walker(muffler)?
Also I need the part no. of the K&N air filter(cylindrical,open one end
and close the other).
Thanks,
Simon
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From: pdang@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 21:22:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
With all the talk about K&Ns and more power, I decided take out my K&N
and instead use my Toyota paper filter. I've had the paper filter from
December 91 to December 93. I put the K&N in December 93. The paper
filter isn't very dirty; a good cleaning with compressed air and it will
look almost new. The K&N filter looks clean.
Here's the scoop on today:
The engine shifted 500 rpms earlier on a particular stretch of slightly
inclined road. I felt that there was less torque. On a freeway on-ramp,
steep incline, I put the pedal to the carpet and noticed that the tach
did not exceed 4100 rpms; with the K&N, I was able to achieve 4600 rpms.
Redline is at 6000 rpms.
Off the topic, but while we are on the subject of performance... for the
first time, I installed a Toyota oil filter along with Castrol GTX 10W30
early last week and have noticed that I was able to start that car, on
two instances, 0.5 second faster than usual. The car still takes the same
amount of time to start when the engine is entirely cold. I previously
used Fram oil filters with Penzoil 10W40. I always change oil at approx.
2700 miles or 3 months.
These results are by no means scientific (YMMV), but just observations.
More observations to come...
87 Celica ST, automatic, 3S-FE engine, 76K miles
only mods are Bosch platinum spark plugs and K&N air filter
Later,
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California
aka Celica-boy #73
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From: pdang@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 21:49:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
To: Chris Myer
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
On Tue, 5 Apr 1994, Chris typed:
[snip, snip]
> detergent, and pop it back in. Completely clean filter at no $$
> output. Someone said something about running a K&N for 40,000 miles.
> (*Cringe!*)
No kidding, Chris. Under performance hints, "Service every 50-100,000
miles on street driven applications. Service more often in offroad or
heavy dust conditions or when air filter reaches 18" of restrictions.
Let [sic]. Let dirt "build-up" work for you; it will not hurt
the performance and actually helps filter the air." For the off-roader
on this list, "When used in heavy dust conditions -- offroad
racing/riding, agriculture, earth moving, or industrial -- [begin bold type]
the filter element must have an additional application of K&N filter oil
applied to it before installation.
I don't know what 18" (18 inches) of restriction means, but the dirt
build up should answer Aaron's question, does less dirt in K&N mean
less filtration?
And if that wasn't enough... K&N Engineering
P.O. Box 1329
Riverside, CA 92502
(909)684-9762
Bye,
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California
aka Celica-boy #73
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 00:52:41 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: K&N filters
>> There is no such thing as a stupid FAQ on this list!
>
>Gosh Fred, I'm not sure how to take that! :-)
What I meant was: All questions asked on this list, even if they
are not new questions, seem to lead to some fresh, uncovered,
discussions filled with useful opinions/information. I have
yet to see a list as good as this one anywhere else! (IMHO)
(except for my random babblings, of course!)
>
>>Long discussion of paper vs. K&N deleted...
Are you calling me long-winded or what ?!?!?!?
>
>For me, I think the advantage of the K&N is that you can cheaply clean
>it every week or two, as opposed to replacing a paper filter. That is
>why I run an Oberg remote oil filter. I can pop that screen out at
>will, jet it down with some carb cleaner, scrub it clean with some
>detergent, and pop it back in. Completely clean filter at no $$
>output. Someone said something about running a K&N for 40,000 miles.
>(*Cringe!*)
I agree with the (*Cringe!*)! How "good" is this screen filter compared
to a throw-away paper oil filter? Would you recommend this for a person
who is time-limited and would probably only clean this every 5000km?
>> P.P.S. Should I drop the extra cash to put my car on the road
>> for
>> April or wait 'till May? (This is Winnipeg.....It snowed on
>> the weekend!)
>> (Gee... I don't sound like I'm asking someone to twist my
>> rubber arm, am I?????)
>
>Fred, this is Florida...It snowed here just after the Mesozoic/Jurrasic
>period I think. Catch the clue. Move where you can drive like an idiot
>year 'round! (Seems like most people here do, anyhow!)
>Chris
#1: Who says I don't?
#2: Is that an invitation to move in? Hey modders: anybody else
want to get in on this? Maybe we could use your place as a halfway house
for addicts who just want a LITTLE bit more power/handling (honest!).
(Really, I'm only going to do the exhaust and then that's it. No more.)
Fredo
Sorry for the excessively fat musicians. (waste of bandwidth!)
Damn...they got LIDAR up here now. Anybody want to sell me a Valentine-1
radar/lidar detector?
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 08:39:42 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Another (late) new member
Well, your friendly Toyota Mods administrator has once again dropped the
ball and am sending out a new member about 2 weeks late. (Sorry Kevin)
Thank goodness for Tom Julien who basically does all my accounting and
lets me know when I've screwed up. Anyway, welcome Kevin to our group.
>>>>>Kevin Bento<<<<<
Name: Kevin M Bento
Location: live in New Paltz, NY work at IBM Mt. Pleasant, NY
Model: 1988 Supra Turbo, sport suspension, mostly stock (for now)
Engine: 7M-GTE (turbo, 24-valve, dual-cam, V6)
Mods: Nothing yet (I just got it)
E-Mail: KBENTO@VNET.IBM.COM
I have some experience in 'automotive hacking', you might say. I'm
interested in the automotive electrical systems, more specifically,
the computers that control things in the engine. Over the next couple
of years I'll be experimenting on a 1988 Supra Turbo linked to a
portable computer to analyze the default programs kept inside the
EPROM chip and possibly create my own custom chip for the computer.
My interests are wide. I've done engine work in the past. I've
rebuilt a VW GTI engine and realized significant increases in power
through headers, test-pipes, better cams, recurved distributer, and
rewiring the computer. I'm only now just getting into Toyotas. I
don't think I'll be rebuilding the engine anytime soon (hopefully)
but I will be doing performance upgrades through the computer.
Kevin Bento
Programmer, IBM Corporation
KBENTO@VNET.IBM.COM
>>>>><<<<<
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From: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 06:11:35 -0700
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Radar List (Who Has What: Car and Driver)
Cc: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Who Has What
Note: X- and K-band radar are not listed becasue all states and provinces use
one or both. In the columns under Ka, laser, and photo surveillance, a Y means
yes, the method is used; an N means it is not used and "test" means it's being
tried. Our sources include RADAR, the detector industry's lobbying
organization, and Gray Electronics, Inc., maker of the Uniden BearTracker
scanner. Gray Electronics publishes the National Highway Patrol Reference
Guide (call 800-722-6701 for the soo-to-be-published third edition), which also
identifies the makes of cars used by state patrols, and how many airplanes,
helicopters, and other speed-enforcementtools the state rely on. A membership
in RADAE is $29 and includes periodic updates to this chart, plus a 50-page
description of speed-measuring devices and a monthly newsletter (513/667-5472).
Our sources in Canada include the legendary Mounties-the Royal Canadian
Mounted Police
STATES Ka Laser Photo
======================================
Alabama Y* Y* N
Alaska Y Y N
Arizona Y Y Y*
Arkansas Y test* Y
California Y Y* Y*
Colorado Y Y Y
Connecticut N Y N
District of Y Y Y**
Columbia
Delaware Y Y N
Florida Y Y* N
Georgia Y Y Y
Hawaii N Y* N
Idaho Y N N
Illinois Y Y Y
Indiana Y Y N
Iowa Y N N
Kansas Y* test N
Kentucky Y N N
Louisiana N Y N
Maine Y Y N
Maryland N Y N
Massachusetts Y Y* N
Michigan N Y N
Minnesota Y* Y N
Mississippi N Y N
Missouri Y Y N
Montana N N N
Nebraska N Y N
Nevada N Y N
New Hampshire N Y N
New Jersey N Y Y
New Mexico N Y N
New York Y Y N
North Carolina N N N
North Dakota Y N N
Ohio Y Y N
Oklahoma Y Y N
Oregon N Y N
Pennsylvania Y Y Y
Rhode Island Y Y N
South Carolina N Y* N
South Dakota Y N N
Tennessee Y Y N
Texas Y Y N
Utah Y Y* Y*
Vermont N Y N
Virginia+ N Y N
Washington N Y N
West Virginia Y Y* N
Wisconsin N Y Y
Wyoming Y Y N
PROVINCES Ka Laser Photo
======================================
Alberta N Y Y*
British N Y N
Columbia
Manitoba + N Y N
New N Y N
Brunswick+++
Newfoundland+ N N N
Northwest N N N
Territories++
Nova Scotia N N N
Ontario+ Y N Y
Prince Edward N N N
Island+
Quebec+ N test N
Saskatchewan N N N
Yukon N N N
Territory++
* Not statewide; local municipalities only
** Coming this summer
+ Radar detectors illegal; VG-2 in use
++ Radar detectors illegal; no VG-2 in use
+++ Radar detectors to be illegal soon; VG-2 use expected
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 09:20:49 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Oberg Oil Filters (was K&N filters)
> I agree with the (*Cringe!*)! How "good" is this screen filter
compared
> to a throw-away paper oil filter? Would you recommend this for a
person
> who is time-limited and would probably only clean this every 5000km?
Nope. There are basically three benefits of the Oberg remote:
1.) You can put it where it is easy to get to.
2.) You can clean it frequently and cheaply.
3.) It tells you when it is dirty.
If your filter is already easy to get to, if you won't clean it more
frequently than you change your oil, and if you change your oil
frequently enough that your filter won't get clogged to the "free-flow"
point, you certainly should save your $125 or so. However, if you run
synthetic oil, you should really get one of these so you can take
advantage of the long oil life. I.E., you can leave the oil in for,
say, 8-10K miles, but clean the filter every 1K. Cool.
>
> #2: Is that an invitation to move in? Hey modders: anybody else
> want to get in on this? Maybe we could use your place as a halfway
house
> for addicts who just want a LITTLE bit more power/handling (honest!).
> (Really, I'm only going to do the exhaust and then that's it. No
more.)
You've all been invited before. BTW, I have a race car that is sitting
idle, and a race track within an hour's drive with a race every Friday
night. Whatcha waitin on?
>
> Fredo
>
> Sorry for the excessively fat musicians. (waste of bandwidth!)
>
> Damn...they got LIDAR up here now. Anybody want to sell me a
Valentine-1
> radar/lidar detector?
My motto is, when you can detect LIDAR, its too late. Don't waste your
money!
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From: fergusos@jeff-lab.queensu.ca
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 09:48:38 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: oh no... more filter stuff
I saved the excellent advice for trashing the stock Toyota airbox and
associated plumbing and replacing it with a simple K&N cylindrical
filter with adapter. However, there isn't a whole lot of room around my
airflow meter (RWD Corolla GTS). Was there a fair bit of room around
the airflow meter in the FWD Corolla that was being discussed, or am
I just underestimating the potential of creative metalwork. The
rectangular intake hole for the meter is within about 3" of the fender and
4" of the supporting sheetmetal for the headlight assembly. Is this enough
room to work with?
Anyone with a RWD Corolla (84-87) want to go outside, look at it, and offer
me some suggestions?
I was reading the advice in the TRD catalog about simple fixes. Plugging
the EGR seems straightforward enough. Are the changes to the mixture
setting via the little toothed wheel in the airflow meter worthwhile, or
would I really notice?
Stephen
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From: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 07:31:45 -0700
To: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer),
Subject: Re: Lidar
>>Fredo:
> > Damn...they got LIDAR up here now. Anybody want to sell me a
> > Valentine-1 radar/lidar detector?
>>Chris:
> My motto is, when you can detect LIDAR, its too late. Don't waste your
> money!
It's never too late... The exact same statment was used on instant-on
Radars too. The way how LIDAR detectors works permits you to catch it's stray
signals. Yes, stray signals. Here is a little quantum physics coming at ya.
Laser is light... Light has both the properties of a particle and a wave. So
therefore, stray signals are possible just by it's wave property.
This is just clearly by my observation of the LIDAR detector itself
(construction, etc...). The LIDAR detector itself has a convex lens. By that
observation alone a convex is used to gather light. *bing* idea!!!
Even though the laser is a tightly focused beam, it is a "pulsed" beam
(by definition: Light Amplification by Stimulation of Emission of Radiation)
and therefore has a specific frequency. The type circuitry the Detector needs
is something that could detemine a pulsed or oscillating signal rather than to
weed out a specific frequency/band (I think that is why the cost is less for a
regular radar that a LIDAR detector). But that is what I think how a LIDAR
detector works... Please correct me or elaborate if there is more information
that could be addressed.
So if my theory is true... the same tactics I have been practicing
*haha* for instant on radar while I speed should prove effective. When
speeding, speed in a group... let a scapegoat take the lead to draw the fire...
then pick up the stray signals and drop back quickly. Similar tactics are used
in the Military to draw out hidden enemies so the second wave could clean up
after *hahaha*. Yes, the LIDAR leaves you less room to get away... the LIDAR
detectors will still let you catch stray signals like it's predaccessors.
Latas,
Botoboy
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From: do@etdesg.trw.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 08:30:56 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
>
> With all the talk about K&Ns and more power, I decided take out my K&N
> and instead use my Toyota paper filter. I've had the paper filter from
> December 91 to December 93. I put the K&N in December 93. The paper
> filter isn't very dirty; a good cleaning with compressed air and it will
> look almost new. The K&N filter looks clean.
>
> Here's the scoop on today:
> The engine shifted 500 rpms earlier on a particular stretch of slightly
> inclined road. I felt that there was less torque. On a freeway on-ramp,
> steep incline, I put the pedal to the carpet and noticed that the tach
> did not exceed 4100 rpms; with the K&N, I was able to achieve 4600 rpms.
> Redline is at 6000 rpms.
>
> Off the topic, but while we are on the subject of performance... for the
> first time, I installed a Toyota oil filter along with Castrol GTX 10W30
> early last week and have noticed that I was able to start that car, on
> two instances, 0.5 second faster than usual. The car still takes the same
> amount of time to start when the engine is entirely cold. I previously
> used Fram oil filters with Penzoil 10W40. I always change oil at approx.
> 2700 miles or 3 months.
>
> These results are by no means scientific (YMMV), but just observations.
> More observations to come...
>
> 87 Celica ST, automatic, 3S-FE engine, 76K miles
> only mods are Bosch platinum spark plugs and K&N air filter
>
> Later,
> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
> Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California
> aka Celica-boy #73
>
About the easier starting of your car... Don't think it's the oil and oil
filter you've installed. It's likely the gas they are selling now. They've
stop oxygenating the gas in CA 'till winter. Have you checked the milage
lately? I'll bet you are now getting a few more miles per gallon than
previously.
And about cleaning K&N every 50K, I would not wait that long. Play it by ear
and clean it if you see dirt packed up in the filter. I've used K&N in various
cars and have always clean them at least once a year.
BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a loud sucking
sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
Louis
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From: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 08:59:43 -0700
To: do@etdesg.trw.com (Louis Do), toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
> BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a loud sucking
> sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
No flames... Wait til you hear from a big-block V8 with a big cam
*droool*.
Latas,
Botoboy
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From: lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 09:57:34 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Lidar
Hey, does anyone know what the number of Valantine-1's
is to get a quantity discount?
Hmmm...if we can get enough of us interested in purchasing
enough to get the price break... It was 6 when the Passports
were hot several years ago.
BTW, I'm seriously interested in one, but not at $400!!
aaron
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From: fergusos@jeff-lab.queensu.ca
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 12:58:27 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
> BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a loud sucking
^^^^^^^^^^^^
> sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
^^^^^
> Louis
Is that what Ross Perot was talking about?
Stephen
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 13:06:18 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
> > BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a
loud
^^^^
> >sucking sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
^^^^^^^ ^^^^^
> > Louis
>
> Is that what Ross Perot was talking about?
>
> Stephen
>
Only on the Mexican-made K&N filters!
Chris
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 13:10:11 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
> BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a loud
sucking
> sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
>
> Louis
>
I remember hearing that sound from the intake on my Suzuki GSX-R 750.
Nothing like hearing that "loud sucking sound" coming from between your
legs when you twist the throttle! Especially at 150 mph!
Chris
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From: lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 10:17:06 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
}From pdang@eis.calstate.edu Tue Apr 5 21:54:27 1994
Phillip sez that K&N sed:
}Let [sic]. Let dirt "build-up" work for you; it will not hurt
}the performance and actually helps filter the air."
[...]
}I don't know what 18" (18 inches) of restriction means, but the dirt
}build up should answer Aaron's question, does less dirt in K&N mean
}less filtration?
Ah-ha! Just as I thought! That's cauz the build-up of dirt
makes it tougher for bigger chunks of dirt that would otherwise pass!
The same theory holds true for furnace filters for the house. The more
plugged up it is, the less gunk passes through, but at the expense
of less airflow and bigger pressure difference.
I assume K&N designed their filters such that even with a dirty
element, the overall performance is still *much* better than the factory
equivalent.
Phillip also sez:
} The paper
}> filter isn't very dirty; a good cleaning with compressed air and it will
}> look almost new. The K&N filter looks clean.
Is it naive to assume that if I blow out my paper filter regularly
that I can technically use it indefinitely (well, *much* longer
than otherwise)? Them paper filters get real expensive real quick!
Louis sez:
}About the easier starting of your car... Don't think it's the oil and oil
}filter you've installed. It's likely the gas they are selling now. They've
}stop oxygenating the gas in CA 'till winter.
We supposedly stopped getting oxy-gas as of Feb 1. My mileage has
since gotten better by a tad. I guess the oxy stuff they've been
selling this year is much better than last year. My mileage took
a 10-15% hit last time.
aaron
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 13:24:43 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Recent problems.
Sorry about all of the recent problems I've been having getting new
members onto the list. Tom and I have a system worked out for checking
behind each other, unfortunately it is based on _each_ of us getting all
of the mail. The problem is, it seems that each of us is missing some
mail. I know, it seems unbelievable, but sometimes when mail is sent to
my machine at toyota-mods or toyota-mods-request, it goes out to
everybody but cmyer. Strange.
Anyhow, Tom didn't get the introduction I did for Kevin Bento this am.
If you got it, (and you're seeing this message within a couple of hours
of 1:30 EST) Please send me a message with subject "I got it - KBento"
(I won't read the body that way.) If you _didn't_ get it, send "I
missed it - KBento".
Hopefully I'll be able to figure out what is going on here soon. Sorry
about this administrivia.
Chris
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From: do@etdesg.trw.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 10:34:25 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
> > BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a loud sucking
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^
> > sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
> ^^^^^
>
> > Louis
>
> Is that what Ross Perot was talking about?
>
> Stephen
>
Don't know if Ross is into *loud sucking sound* from the intake like me.
I think he means he hears *loud sucking sounds* when around government
officials. Don't ask me why.
Louis
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From: do@etdesg.trw.com
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 10:43:14 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters & funny loud sounds
> > BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a loud
> sucking
> > sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
> >
> > Louis
> >
>
> I remember hearing that sound from the intake on my Suzuki GSX-R 750.
> Nothing like hearing that "loud sucking sound" coming from between your
> legs when you twist the throttle! Especially at 150 mph!
>
> Chris
>
**"loud sucking sound" coming from between your legs ....** Hey watch
what you write. It can be s*xual harrassment in some places.
Louis (couldn't resist) Do
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From: pdang@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 11:09:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
To: Louis Do
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
On Wed, 6 Apr 1994, Louis Do wrote:
[my long message deleted]
> About the easier starting of your car... Don't think it's the oil and oil
> filter you've installed. It's likely the gas they are selling now. They've
> stop oxygenating the gas in CA 'till winter. Have you checked the milage
> lately? I'll bet you are now getting a few more miles per gallon than
> previously.
I suppose this is true. I really don't know. I haven't checked the
mileage latey, but you're probably correct in saying that my mileage went
up. I know that before I switched over to Toyota and Castrol, I didn't
notice anything unusual when the local gas station that I use switched to
oxygenated gasoline. Only now have I noticed that the car starts easier.
> And about cleaning K&N every 50K, I would not wait that long. Play it by ear
> and clean it if you see dirt packed up in the filter. I've used K&N in various
Yeah, I'll check periodically and service when necessary. I also want to
add that cleaning the air filter beats throwing it away and buying a new one.
> BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a loud sucking
> sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
Cheap plug for K&N: in this month's issue of Roundel, BM* magazine, a
company called AJ-USA, located in San Diego, is selling K&Ns for BM*
for 40% of list. Assuming that they carry K&Ns for Toys, there's a deal
to be had. (800) 877-1911 or (619) 297-9070
Bye,
Celica-boy #73
pdang@ctp.org
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From: lantera@csos.orst.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 13:08:29 -0700
To: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com, cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com,
Subject: Re: Lidar
Car and Driver just got through doing an extensive test of combined Radar/Laser
detectors in their April issue. Among the interesting tidbits of this article
is a chart that lists for the USA and Canada what forms of radar/lidar are used
in what state/province. It was interesting to note how many did not use Ka
band radar thus making a 3 band detector unnecessary. In an earlier issue
they showed some ways to reduce the distance at which a Lidar gun has any
accuracy, thus making a Lidar detector useful. If you can get rid of all
reflective surfaces on the front of your car (ie. license plates, chrome, etc)
there is a significant decrease in the distance that the Lidar gun can get a
reading.
In a similar note I've heard it mentioned in C&D that a IR filter over a
driving light (tuned to the right frequency of course) could effectvely blind
a Lidar gun, and be completely legal. Another technique I heard on
rec.motorcycles was to use IR LED's pulsing out the right frequency. I figgure
about 10 of them in the right places could do the same thing, and also be
legal. Not that anybody here would ever deliberately break a traffic law. :)
Woodsprite
*******************************************************************************
** * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite ***
** Looking for Julie, * * Unsafe at any speed ***
** Whereever I go. * I don't drive * ***
** --- * fast. * lantera@kira.csos.orst.edu ***
** I'll do what it * I fly low. * lanteran@xanth.cs.orst.edu ***
** takes to find her. * * ***
** * 72 Honda CB350 * ***
*******************************************************************************
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 20:09:29 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: Another (late) new member
>>>>>>Kevin Bento<<<<<
>I have some experience in 'automotive hacking', you might say. I'm
>interested in the automotive electrical systems, more specifically,
>the computers that control things in the engine. Over the next couple
>of years I'll be experimenting on a 1988 Supra Turbo linked to a
>portable computer to analyze the default programs kept inside the
>EPROM chip and possibly create my own custom chip for the computer.
Hey! Does this mean you will be able to reprogram the computer for
MY car???? Seeing as how nobody makes a "superchip" for my application,
this would be just ducky!
Fredo
88 Corolla GTS (4AGE - CSP)
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 20:12:12 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: Oberg Oil Filters (was K&N filters)
Ok, I'll consider it! Where can I get an Oberg applications
book/catalog? Anybody want to fax me the page(s) for an
88 Corolla GTS, 4AGE,FWD????????
Thanks,
Fredo
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 20:25:12 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: oh no... more (air) filter stuff
>filter with adapter. However, there isn't a whole lot of room around my
>airflow meter (RWD Corolla GTS). Was there a fair bit of room around
>the airflow meter in the FWD Corolla that was being discussed, or am
>I just underestimating the potential of creative metalwork. The
>rectangular intake hole for the meter is within about 3" of the fender and
>4" of the supporting sheetmetal for the headlight assembly. Is this enough
>room to work with?
Hmmmm.....sounds kinda tight. I do remember that on my FWD 'Rolla there didn't
seem to be any way to do this either. I was suprised when I picked it up!
It does sound like you have even less room though. What about an even wackier
but better-performing change like deleting the somewhat lengthy rubber tube which
connects the "intake manifold" (aluminum assembly) to the airflow meter?
Ie: intake assemly -- short tube -- AFM -- K&N ?
This would be an even better change as it would decrease the length of tubing
through which the air would have to travel. Unfortunately I don't have a
RWD 'Rolla to look at so this may be total BS. Any replies from others who
have this vehicle?
>I was reading the advice in the TRD catalog about simple fixes. Plugging
>the EGR seems straightforward enough. Are the changes to the mixture
>setting via the little toothed wheel in the airflow meter worthwhile, or
>would I really notice?
I really didn't notice any difference except that if you overdo it, your
off-the-line performance will really suck. I do recall that this change is
spelled out (RECOMMENDED?) in the setup instructions that came with my
HKS cams. Perhaps a "better" way might be to raise the fuel pressure?
Might this cause the computer to bring the mixture back to normal by
using the oxygen sensor while cruising yet still allow more fuel into
the engine when you tromp on the accelerator?
My theory is this:
When driving normally, the computer uses the oxygen sensor to adjust the
fuel mixture to an "optimum" cruising value (most efficient).
When you tromp on it, the computer ignores the oxy sensor and sets the
time the injectors are open based on a fixed "look-up table" in its
memory.
Can anyone verify this? Or suggest alternate ways the oxy sensor is used.
I tried disconnecting mine last year and didn't notice a difference
in my "spirited" driving performance. Do you have to be cruising at
a fixed speed for a long period or is my oxy sensor just dead? I do
have about 100,000km and the new service books suggest that the oxy
sensor should be replaced at about 100,000km. Too bad this damn thing
is worth about $400!!! It's the 4-wire kind.
>Stephen
Regards,
Fredo
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 20:31:21 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: Lidar
>accuracy, thus making a Lidar detector useful. If you can get rid of all
>reflective surfaces on the front of your car (ie. license plates, chrome, etc)
>there is a significant decrease in the distance that the Lidar gun can get a
>reading.
Sure, make me wish I hadn't bought a WHITE car!!!
>In a similar note I've heard it mentioned in C&D that a IR filter over a
>driving light (tuned to the right frequency of course) could effectvely blind
>a Lidar gun, and be completely legal. Another technique I heard on
Interesting. I have a source for IR glass filters designed to be mounted over
halogen floodlamps (12v). Too bad these things are so darn expensive (~$120US
for a 5" circle). You could just mount a bunch on the front of your car and
use it for jamming and heating burgers!
>rec.motorcycles was to use IR LED's pulsing out the right frequency. I figgure
>about 10 of them in the right places could do the same thing, and also be
>legal. Not that anybody here would ever deliberately break a traffic law. :)
Would 10 of them be powerful enough? I guess maybe the pulsing thing helps.
I have the LED's if you have the LIDAR gun to try them on! (kinda expensive
testing otherwise!)
>Woodsprite
Sorry for starting a not-so-appropriate thread here!
Fredo
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 20:33:42 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: 4AGE mods (Phone no. and Parts no. need)
>Also I need the part no. of the K&N air filter(cylindrical,open one end
>and close the other).
>Thanks,
>Simon
I guess this is probably directed at me!
Conveniently, I will be getting the oil changed on my truck by my
favorite mechanic (who installed the K&N for me) so, assuming that
my alzheimer's doesn't strike again I will remember to ask him for
the part number (unless anyone else has already answered this!).
Regards,
fredo
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 94 08:53:13 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Oberg Oil Filters (was K&N filters)
> Ok, I'll consider it! Where can I get an Oberg applications
> book/catalog? Anybody want to fax me the page(s) for an
> 88 Corolla GTS, 4AGE,FWD????????
Well, I learned about them in the LC Engineering catalog that I got back
in '91 or so. (Remember that I said the LC Engineering catalog was a
"must have" for 2xR engine owners [$5] but there stuff was too
expensive...) Anyway, I just went to a local performance shop and told
them if they'd order it for me direct from Oberg and get it cheaper,
that I'd buy it from them. That's an idea if nothing else works.
Chris
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 94 09:49:09 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: FAQ
Kevin Bento wrote me and asked about FAQ's for the group, and what
catalogs/refereces would be good to get. I started to respond directly
to him, but then realized that this is a really good question since
we've gotten quite a few new members recently. What follows is the
response to Kevin which becomes more directed at the whole group toward
the end. Thanks for the question, Kevin.
By your earlier response you obviously received the post in which I
reference Tom Julien. Tom works at Martin Marietta in Orlando and does
a lot of (well, most of) the administration type stuff for me. He
should have or should be sending you a list of users, suppliers, and
books/magazines. Definitely go through the list of suppliers and
request catalogs as appropriate. Some of them are kinda pricey. The
HKS catalog may interest you. I think it is overpriced at $5, but it
really is more aligned toward users like yourself who are into the real
pricey, techy stuff. The old TRD catalog was the Toyota Modders prayer
book, but now they've gone to a wimpy three page, "tuned to the type of
car you have" catalog. Get it (the new wimpy one is free), and then get
the Luis Fuz catalog which has most of the old catalog reproduced in
it. The Luis Fuz catalog (That's a dealership that specializes in mail
ordering Toyota and TRD parts _cheap_) may or may not cost you,
depending on who you talk to at LF Toyota.
LC Engineering is an excellent catalog, jammed full of performance
information, but it was more 2xR engine related, and focused a bit more
on trucks than on Celica's. That may have changed. Anybody with the
new catalog want to give us a review?
I have ordered the Paeco catalog and will review it when I get it.
The Toyota Modders Bible (in the book/mag list) is the Toyota
Performance Handbook, and is a better FAQ than we could ever hope to
recreate. Get it. Read it. Live it. (Hello Ben! I finally got your
copy of the TPH and will be mailing it soon. Sorry so slow!)
Finally, a resource that I started but have really not done as much with
as I should is the Toyota Mods Mosaic Server. Get Mosaic for your
machine and connect up. Now that I have a machine at home and can do
some work in the evenings without being "at work", I expect to get
things moving on this. The TMMS is limited only by our imagination. It
is a bit of a sore spot for some members who have mail/news-only access
to the internet, but I really think that we should move ahead with our
implementation of this tool. Soon, all of the commercial hookups will
be forced by the market to supply full internet availability, and when
that happens we will have this resource ready for all of our users.
Chris
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From: pdang@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 1994 11:51:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oberg Oil Filters
To: Chris Myer
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Chris, could you tell us how you assemble the filter. Do you have to
disassemble anything?
Thanks,
Celica-boy #73
pdang@ctp.org
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From: garyh@sco.com
To: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 94 12:09:41 PDT
From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer)
>
>> > BTW, after I installed the K&N in my V8(no flames!) , There is a
>loud
> ^^^^
>> >sucking sound everytime I sep on the gas. I LOVE THAT SOUND!
> ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^
>> > Louis
>>
>> Is that what Ross Perot was talking about?
>>
>> Stephen
>>
>
>Only on the Mexican-made K&N filters!
>
>Chris
Dude, I am Mexican ! Watch it buster!
Gary
Ps. Just kidding :)
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From: dsieber@sol.uvic.ca
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Celica Mods...
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 94 23:41:14
Hi folks!
Well, after lurking on this list for a while, I figured it was about
time I actually posted something... ;-) I tried doing this a couple of
weeks ago, but my posting seems to have disappeared into the ether
somewhere along the way. (Either that, or everyone is just ignoring
me. ;-) I guess I should warn you now... this is likely to be a little
long...
I'm the owner of an '86 Celica GT-S, that's in pretty good shape, with
about 130,000kms on it. I'm starting to look at some ideas to help
inprove the performance/handling, now that I might actually have some
spare cash this summer (the wonders of a student's life. :-( However,
my problem is that I've never done anything like this before, and I
have no idea where to start!
With all the discussions about air filters lately, I've decided that
I'm going to try to track down a K&N filter for my Celica... However,
I have no idea where to find one. Is it best to find a place locally
(assuming there is one), or do you folks have recommendations on a
mail-order firm that will serve us folks up here in Canada? The other
question is, am I likely to die of shock when I see the price tag? ;-)
(Just for comparasion, a regular paper filter is ~$20.00 Can w/taxes
at the local Canadian Tire).
However, the question is, where to go from here? As I mentioned, I
have no experience in this. However, I do have access to a lot of
tools, am reasonably coordinated, and have a few friends who know their
way around an engine. One of my friends even mentioned having a
turbo-charger that would fit my engine... but that brings up a *huge*
list of questions. Topping the list is "Is it worth it? Am I likely
to kill my engine/drivetrain/whatever with the extra power? Am I
going to have to modify anything in the ignition/fuel injection/computer
control to get it to work? Any important things I should watch out for?"
Last question (at least for now...) is, what about struts? My front
struts are rapidly approaching the end of their lifetimes, so I
figure now is the perfect time to think of putting something better on.
Recommendations? Places to get them? (If you know of one in Vancouver,
BC, I'll be in your debt! :) Cost compared to regular (generic) struts?
(The local "shock & struts only" place quoted me $99 + tax Can to replace
both front struts about a year ago. I assume I will pay more for
better performance.. but how much more?
Well, I think that about does it for the moment... sorry to flood
you with what might be foolish questions... I'd appreciate any tips
you may have, either mailed to the list, or directly to me at
"dsieber@unixg.ubc.ca"
Thanks!
Dirk
--
Dirk Sieber dsieber@sol.uvic.ca dsieber@amiga.uvic.ca (well, kinda ;-)
Vice President of the University of Victoria Computer Science Course Union
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Coming to you through the wonders of SLIP from my Amiga 3000... ;-)**
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
WARNING: Don't reply to the "From: header of this message. Please make
sure your software is using the "Reply-To" header of "dsieber@sol.uvic.ca"
Thanks!
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From: pdang@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 1994 23:27:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
To: Aaron Lung
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Aaron typed:
> Is it naive to assume that if I blow out my paper filter regularly
> that I can technically use it indefinitely (well, *much* longer
> than otherwise)? Them paper filters get real expensive real quick!
I think you'll know better when to throw it out and get a new one.
Acutally, it's too bad Toyota doesn't take them back (or do they) and
give you credit on your next pruchase of an air filter. They look like
they're recyclable, like soda cans...
Later,
Celica-boy #73
pdang@ctp.org
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From: pdang@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 1994 23:39:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: K&N air filter
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
I put my K&N back in today. The car definitely shifts later but not
by a lot... say no more than 500 rpms. The car picks up, not much, on the
low rpms.
Oh yeah, about the inclined curve I mentioned in the earlier message: the
car shifted into the next gear at ~30 mph. With the K&N installed, the car
shifted at ~36 mph. Whatever I said about this is incorrect.
YMMV,
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Celica-boy #73 pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California
87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, 76K miles
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From: marec911@raven.csrv.uidaho.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 1994 01:58:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Lidar
To: Aaron Lung
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
On Wed, 6 Apr 1994, Aaron Lung wrote:
>
> Hey, does anyone know what the number of Valantine-1's
> is to get a quantity discount?
>
> Hmmm...if we can get enough of us interested in purchasing
> enough to get the price break... It was 6 when the Passports
> were hot several years ago.
>
> BTW, I'm seriously interested in one, but not at $400!!
>
> aaron
>
I think the number is 1-800 331 3030
I'm not sure if thats still it though.
Tom
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From: k124476@ee.tut.fi
Subject: AAAARGH! Need rims!
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota-mods mailing list)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 94 17:19:17 EET DST
I'm looking for a set of rims for my Carina, but no luck so far.
I need:
alloy 15"*7", 4*114.3mm (4*4.5"), 10mm (3/8") offset
1) Does anyone even have rims like this in their pre-85 Celica
or equivalent?
2) Which companies still make rims like this?
3) How much does a new/used set cost in the US?
Thanks for your help!
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 160hp * 206Nm * '82
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 94 08:53:07 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Oberg Oil Filters
> Chris, could you tell us how you assemble the filter. Do you have to
> disassemble anything?
>
> Thanks,
> Celica-boy #73
> pdang@ctp.org
*WARNING!* What follows is a crude attempt at ascii-art!
|--------<<>>flow>>>------| |_|
^----Little jobber that screws in
where
Your oil filter used to go.
^----Two hydraulic hoses.
^----Filter, viewed from side.
|----------|
| * * |
| | <----Filter, viewed from top. * = 1/2" bolt
| |
| * * |
|----------|
_____
/ \
| | <----Screen, (Perfectly round, actually) is extremely fine
| | wire mesh with rubber edge for seal.
\-----/
To clean filter:
_
//
// <---Top half (Free after bolts removed.)
//
//
-
|=========| <---Bottom (bolted to firewall or whatever)
1.) Take four bolts out.
2.) Lift top half of filter (with hose connected) off.
(Bottom is bolted to firewall or whatever and stays in place)
3.) Lift screen out and clean.
4.) Assembly is reverse of disassembly.
(I've always wanted to say that!)
Chris
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 94 09:15:17 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Celica Mods...
Dirk:
I'm sure you'll get some other good advice, but make sure you get the
Toyota Performance Handbook and read it carefully. Also, some of the
catalogs I mentioned in my post yesterday are "must-haves".
Based on where you are starting, I'd get the suspension right first.
Study up and get a good set of strut inserts that will do what you
want. Springs are also a good idea, but maybe not that necessary.
Depends on what you want to do. Also, putting poly bushings in all of
the suspension components will make a _huge_ difference. Several of the
members have done that and hopefully someone can give you some details.
I wouldn't screw with the engine too much just yet. The problem with
EFI is that any engine mod turns into a fairly major deal. You may want
to adjust the air-flow dealy (Someone else has to tell you about this
one) and put in a K&N filter or something, but that's probably enough
for now. Hopefully Kevin will make some great strides on deciphering
the Toyota brain boxes and give us some clues on how to reprogram it for
greater performance.
Good luck.
Chris
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From: pinegv!wg@riem.com
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 94 08:21:47 PDT
Subject: Re:Celica Mods...('Toyota Performace Handbook')
To: Toyota-Mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Is there a newer version of the 'Toyota Performance Handbook' then 1990 ?
The 1990 edition has 3 pictures of altracs, mentions why toyota went to altrac
but has very little other information on altrac's or for that matter Celica
parts past 1985. I mean its a good book but references to parts for any Celica
past 1985 mostly aren't there. Other Models are covered farly well up thru 1989.
Wayne
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From: pinegv!wg@riem.com
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 94 10:45:29 PDT
Subject: RE: Toyota Performace Handbook
To: pdang@eis.calstate.edu, Toyota-Mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
I got my copy at Barnes And Noble in Salt Lake City, Utah two days ago. It was
their last copy. I hadn't seen it anywhere else, But Staceys is a good book
store, if they don't have it they will get it. Its Written by Pat Braden,
Published by Motorbooks international, ISBN 0-87938-320-8.
Wayne
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From: pdang@eis.calstate.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 1994 10:54:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Toyota Performace Handbook
To: "Wayne R. Graves"
Cc: Toyota-Mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
> Is there a newer version of the 'Toyota Performance Handbook' then 1990 ?
Where can I get my hands on a copy? Stacey's Book Story?
Thanks,
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Phillip Dang pdang@ctp.org San Francisco, California
Celica-boy #73
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From: derek_deeter@rainbow.mentorg.com (Derek Deeter)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 94 16:12:04 PDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Celica Mods...
> One of my friends even mentioned having a
> turbo-charger that would fit my engine... but that brings up a *huge*
> list of questions. Topping the list is "Is it worth it? Am I likely
> to kill my engine/drivetrain/whatever with the extra power? Am I
> going to have to modify anything in the ignition/fuel injection/computer
> control to get it to work? Any important things I should watch out for?"
>
Definitely worth it - you can get the biggest gain in power with the most
driveability. If you stay conservative - say, less than 10psi boost, you
shouldn't have any problems with engine or drivetrain. With about 7-10 psi,
you should be able to gain about 50-66% in HP, and still retain your stock
idle. Anything higher, and you're looking at heavier engine modifications.
There is a _very_ good book on turbocharging by Hugh MacInnes called
Turbochargers and Turbocharging, (HP books), which gives all the details
you'll ever want to know - it's pretty much the bible of custom automotive
turbocharging installations, and includes specifications on turbochargers,
calculations for sizing, types of applications, what to do about timing,
fuel, and other turbo related information. It runs around $20, and is well
worth it if you're at all serious about it.
To summarize briefly what's involved:
Before you get a turbo, you should make sure it is sized for your engine;
if it's too small, you can overspin the turbo which will explode the impellor
or turbine blades; if it's too large, you may not get any boost until you
run out of RPM's. Your engine should be lower compression - 8.5:1 is about
right, you may be able to get away with 9.0:1 with fuel enrichment or timing
changes.
You should have some fabrication skills, if you don't get a kit. You will
need to fabricate some sort of adaptor pipe to plumb the exhaust into the
turbo, along with a flange to mount the turbo. Also some sort of pipe from
the turbo to the intake of the throttle body. Then some sort of air cleaner
onto the inlet of the turbo, like the K&N stuff that's been talked about
lately. You will also have to plumb an oil line from the block to the turbo,
and an oil return from the turbo to the engine. Also required is adapting
the exhaust, which should be free flow as possible. A lot of these parts
or pieces to make them are available from places which sell turbochargers.
Then, you have to figure out the timing - which should be more retarded
under higher boost conditions, and your fuel supply, which may have to be
increased depending on what the capacity is of your fuel injectors. If
you go too lean during boost, you _will_ burn valves, if not pistons. There
are devices which can help you out here, so you may not have to modify
your computer controls.
If you get a kit, they've done all this work for you, which is why you
pay them the big bucks. And a kit is a lot easier to install, usually
only a couple days are involved. Then there is always the question of legality
with the smog police, if your area requires compliance, and if so,
this whole question is moot, unless you find an exempted turbo kit.
As you can see, turbocharging is not at all trivial, but can be a very
rewarding project.
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From: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 1994 19:19:17 -0700
To: lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com (Aaron Lung), toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Lidar
On Apr 6, 9:57am, Aaron Lung wrote:
> Subject: Re: Lidar
>
> Hey, does anyone know what the number of Valantine-1's
> is to get a quantity discount?
Well, I just happen to have the number with me :^). The toll-free
number is 1-800/331-3030 and their office number is 513/984-8900
> Hmmm...if we can get enough of us interested in purchasing
> enough to get the price break... It was 6 when the Passports
> were hot several years ago.
>
> BTW, I'm seriously interested in one, but not at $400!!
That sounds like a great idea... let's get a serious headcount on this.
Anyone who is really good on negotiating here? We must also be able to get
them to distribute them too... We could probably handle the local one's easily.
Any volunteers...
Latas,
Botoboy
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From: pinegv!wg@riem.com
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 94 08:34:52 PDT
Subject: 1986-1993 Celica owners might want to look for this Manual...
To: toyota@quack.kfu.com, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
I recently found a new Chiltons manual covering 1986-1993 Celicas, sez it
covers all U.S. and Canadian models of Toyota Celica, Chilton Part Number 8413,
copyright 1993, ISBN 0-8019-8413-0. I was surprised to see that it actually
covers Altracs for 1988-1993. It even shows pictures of changes in engines. It
also has alot of stuff I haven't seen in other pubs, like the fact that the
Altrac radiator Fan sucks 8.8-10.4 amps as aposed to the stock that only sucks
3.2-4.4(manual trans) or 5.8-7.4(automatic). The manual is about an Inch thick
and sells for about 19 bucks U.S.
Wayne
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 1994 11:02:31 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: Lidar
> That sounds like a great idea... let's get a serious headcount on this.
> Anyone who is really good on negotiating here? We must also be able to get
>them to distribute them too... We could probably handle the local one's easily.
> Any volunteers...
>Latas,
>Botoboy
Count me in the serious list.
Not that I'm trying to get out of doing anything here, but, the
interface person should be in the USA otherwise all US
participants will get royally screwed on exchange rates.
I have some thoughts on how to work this group buy thing but we
should get a sublist before I babble on too far.
Can anyone setup a distribution alias on their machine (or
manually distribute stuff) without getting SH*T from their
company?
Thanks,
Fredo
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From: fjo-toymod@majikthise.wpg.paramax.com
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 1994 11:11:48 CDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (toyota-mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: Celica Mods... (K&N)
> With all the discussions about air filters lately, I've decided that
>I'm going to try to track down a K&N filter for my Celica... However,
>I have no idea where to find one. Is it best to find a place locally
>(assuming there is one), or do you folks have recommendations on a
>mail-order firm that will serve us folks up here in Canada? The other
>question is, am I likely to die of shock when I see the price tag? ;-)
>(Just for comparasion, a regular paper filter is ~$20.00 Can w/taxes
>at the local Canadian Tire).
>
> Thanks!
> Dirk
Are you looking for a stock replacement one or are you going to the
cylindrical version?
I paid $45 (yes, CAN$) for the stock replacement one for my 92 2WD
truck (rectangular filter). The cylindrical one is within $15 of
that price I believe, but then you also need the adaptor made. If
you were here in Winnipeg, I would suggest the stock replacement one
as snow and open filters probably don't mix. Out in Victoria (you are
in Victoria. no?) you probaby wouldn't have that problem.
These prices were as purchased from my favorite racing-mechanic. I do
know of at least 2 other "Performance" shops here that can also get them.
Try the yellow pages under "automotive" and look for some places that
specialize in performance parts. I an not convinced that the mail-order
thing really saves you that much money. (is saving $10 worth the hassle
of exchange/duty/not being able to exchange the right one for the wrong
one......)
Regards,
Fredo
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 09:02:49 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Valentine Group-purchase list
Cc: toyota-mods-val@su102a.ess.harris.com
I just created a side group for the Valentine Radar Detector thread.
Its called toyota-mods-val, and I currently have myself, Allan Chen,
Wayne and Fred in the list. If anyone else is considering getting
involved in such a group purchase, email me directly and I'll add you to
the list.
PS: Allan, Fred, and Wayne: I am CCing this to the -val group, so you
should get two copies. If you don't, please let me know.
Chris
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 09:13:19 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Lidar
> How much does the Valintine cost ? I see where escort has a 3 band
and laser
> unit(passport) for $265 U.S.
> ...
> It would be interesting to get a gun and try some of these things,
but I
> don't
> have one.
> Wayne
The last test I saw between the newest passport and the valentine had
the val blowing the passport away. It was a very thourough test.
Of course, that is quite a difference in price...($285 vs $400)
Chris
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From: Steven_Jackson.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 11:05:42 EDT
To: UNIXML.."toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com"@lotus.com
Subject: Eibach Contact Information
Here's the full contact information for Eibach:
Eibach Springs
15311 Barranca
Irvine CA 92718
714-727-3700
Also, for springs I recommend HyperCo. I haven't heard them talked about much
among in these circles, but you see them used often on dedicated race cars. I
called them for springs for my TVR 2500M. I supplied them with specs, but they
will also help with design. They are a topnotch business selling topnotch
products.
Phone number for Hyperco: (219)489-8959
I don't know the K&N part number you're looking for, but here's contact
information for K&N:
K&N
561 Iowa Avenue
PO Box 1329
Riverside, CA 92502
714-684-9762
Also, where can I get Toyota performance modification handbooks?
- S
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From: Steven_Jackson.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 14:38:34 EDT
To: UNIXML.."allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com"@lotus.com,
Subject: Re: Lidar
I'm interested in a Valantine at a volume discount. You can count me in.
- S
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From: simmers@sfu.ca
Subject: Suspension Mods
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 14:47:47 -0700 (PDT)
Good news to you 82 -85 Celica owners! I got new Tokico springs and
urethane bushings last week. I'm still pushing the limit but I
would say that it increased my possible cornering speed by 20km!
About the camber, the springs lowered it 1" so its not too bad,
only the rear wheels were affected. Note of warning...The springs
are stiffer, so the car absorbs the bumbs and you with it! I read a
message from a guy in Victoria with an 86 Celica I believe. I got
my springs and bushings done at LOWRIDERS 83rd 123th Surrey. They
are in the yellow pages. Parts: springs $300 cdn and bushings
(a whole bunch) about $80.
I have talked to my mechanic about a new diff. There was a 1: 4.33
available for the Celica and I think thats what I want. Unless ..
the Supra rear end will fit with disc brakes and higher diff?
I'm outta here for the summer. Tell you all about it in the fall!
Brian Simmers
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 19:04:42 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Suspension Mods
> I have talked to my mechanic about a new diff. There was a 1: 4.33
> available for the Celica and I think thats what I want. Unless ..
> the Supra rear end will fit with disc brakes and higher diff?
The Supra has a larger third member than the Celica, so you've gotta
swap the entire rear-end. I know more about the old 1-piece type
rear-ends than the independent suspension ones, but after quite a bit of
effort, I've found that for my application, the bigger ring gear and
disc brakes weren't worth the effort/$$$ (at least not at my current
level of play.)
> I'm outta here for the summer. Tell you all about it in the fall!
>
> Brian Simmers
Shall we unsubscribe you for the summer? I don't know if your account
goes away or not, but even if it doesn't you might kill a hard drive by
continuing to get all of that mail for the next 4-6 months. (A good
reminder for all of our student-members who will be losing their
accounts over the summer...)
Chris
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From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 14:38:49 HST
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Toy Mod Monthly Listing ? FAQ ?
Errr... who was posting the FAQ and the member listing
or should I jus ask Chris ? Or Fredo still have a copy ?
Or maybe the long forgotten Tom...
Any Bunny ? =)
-Koji
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From: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 1994 01:20:00 -0700
To: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer),
Subject: Re: Lidar
On Apr 11, 9:13am, Chris Myer wrote:
> Subject: Re: Lidar
> > How much does the Valintine cost ? I see where escort has a 3 band
> and laser
> > unit(passport) for $265 U.S.
> > ...
> > It would be interesting to get a gun and try some of these things,
> but I
> > don't
> > have one.
> > Wayne
>
> The last test I saw between the newest passport and the valentine had
> the val blowing the passport away. It was a very thourough test.
>
> Of course, that is quite a difference in price...($285 vs $400)
>
> Chris
To top things off too, the Valentine also blew away the Escort in
shielding (from being detected) from the VG-2 (radar-detector detector). It
did lose out in the new Ka bandwidth though... but still detectable within a
third of a mile. And with the price of speeding tickets these days... $400
will be more than justified within 3-5 incidents of detection :^).
Latas,
Botoboy
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To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com, tomj@iplmaster
Subject: Re: Toy Mod Monthly Listing ? FAQ ?
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 1994 08:47:46 -0400
From: Tom Julien
>Errr... who was posting the FAQ and the member listing
>or should I jus ask Chris ? Or Fredo still have a copy ?
>
>Or maybe the long forgotten Tom...
>
>Any Bunny ? =)
Sorry Koji (and the rest of the gang!),
Works been a tad hectic around here lately. The last 'monthly' :(
posting of the TM lists I did was on Jan 21. I will be blasting
those out tonight. I know there's a few new members that haven't
seen these lists yet and I promised FredO them a few weeks ago --
thanks for being patient.
Things should return to a little more normal by May 2. Until
tonight ...
/*************************************************************
Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com
Engineer, Image Processing Lab Tel: 407-356-3442
Martin Marietta Corp. Fax: 407-356-8944
*************************************************************/
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From: rmats1!wg@riem.com
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 94 11:29:46 PDT
Subject: Re: K&N air filters
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Ok, ok, so I called AJ-USA, and it's true, 40% off list, so thats $35 bucks for
my 88 celica all trac, so I ordered one, it takes them 2 days to get it and they
ship it UPS, in California, thats 2-3 days more. $35 is just over the price of
a stock one, so what the hell...
Thanks for the input on the sale 'Celica-boy #73'.
Wayne
p.s. that 1-800-877-1911 in case you lost that message
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 94 08:58:12 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Valentine Group Purchase List
Just wanted the entire group to know that the Valentine Group Purchase
List is forming up nicely with about 10 members so far. If you are
interested in purchasing a Valentine at a reduced price, its not too
late to join. Email me directly and I'll get your name on the list.
Chris
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 94 12:05:16 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Valentine Group Purchase Info
Fact is, I don't have any info at this point. But quite a few folks
were interested, so I'll tell you what I do know. The Valentine retails
for around $400. Someone suggested we form a group and try to get a
discount based on volume. That Valentine will even consider it is only
speculation. I myself think $400 is a bit steep, but if we could get
them down to something closer to the Top of the line Escort (around
$320-340, say) then I'd be ready to buy.
This may be all wishful thinking, or it may be our only chance to get
the best radar detector in the world for a discount price. Only one way
to find out though.
BTW, don't anyone get in a hurry. The last time I heard, Valentine had
about a 6 month backlog of orders!
Chris
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From: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 1994 15:01:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Disable EGR valve!
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
I have heard the advantage of disable the EGR valve by using a BB gun shot,
but is there disadvantage? As far as I know, after you disable the valve,
more oxygen is going to the engine and the combusion temp. will go higher
than normal, will the engine overheat or making any damage? Also the percentage
of NO or NO2 is increase, that means more chemical reaction and heat inside
the catalytic converter, is that right? Please correct me if I am wrong.
Cheers,
Simon
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From: SSOONG@umiami.ir.miami.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 1994 15:24:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 4AGE mods
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
I start my first mods on my car yesterday by putting a Walker Super Turbo
muffler and a 2 1/4" custom pipe. Now there is more horsepower and I feel
it is worth($135). I also try to replace the catalystic converter with a
test pipe and that is so exciting. I never think that my car can accerelate
so fast. But I put the converter back later because the car is so noisy.
Is there anyway I can do to lower the noise level with a test pipe on?
Cheers,
Simon
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From: kbento@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 94 15:55:53 EDT
To: TOYOTA-MODS@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: 4AGE mods
Simon,
I did a similiar mod to a VW GTI with headers, baffle pipe (to replace
cat) and a turbo exhaust. I also noticed very good performance and flow.
My VW was very loud after the mod so I took "header tape" and wrapped it
around the headers and the baffle pipe (the test pipe in your case) and
it quieted it down a bunch. Still sounded good, though.
Kevin Bento
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 94 16:04:51 EDT
To: Toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: 4AGE mods
> I start my first mods on my car yesterday by putting a Walker Super
Turbo
> muffler and a 2 1/4" custom pipe. Now there is more horsepower and I
feel
> it is worth($135). I also try to replace the catalystic converter with
a
> test pipe and that is so exciting. I never think that my car can
accerelate
> so fast. But I put the converter back later because the car is so
noisy.
> Is there anyway I can do to lower the noise level with a test pipe
on?
I think you're either gonna have to live with the noise or get a
different muffler (or leave the cat on). If you look back at the
muffler review I posted, you'll see that the Walker Super Turbo is
louder than average. The Walker Hemi, on the other hand, is one of the
quieter mufflers, yet had even better performance than the regular
Walker Super Turbo.
Chris
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From: do@etdesg.trw.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 94 13:41:27 PDT
To: Toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: 4AGE mods
>
> > I start my first mods on my car yesterday by putting a Walker Super
> Turbo
> > muffler and a 2 1/4" custom pipe. Now there is more horsepower and I
> feel
> > it is worth($135). I also try to replace the catalystic converter with
> a
> > test pipe and that is so exciting. I never think that my car can
> accerelate
> > so fast. But I put the converter back later because the car is so
> noisy.
> > Is there anyway I can do to lower the noise level with a test pipe
> on?
>
> I think you're either gonna have to live with the noise or get a
> different muffler (or leave the cat on). If you look back at the
> muffler review I posted, you'll see that the Walker Super Turbo is
> louder than average. The Walker Hemi, on the other hand, is one of the
> quieter mufflers, yet had even better performance than the regular
> Walker Super Turbo.
>
> Chris
>
I don't think the cat cuts down the noise level that much, does it? Anyhow,
Chris is right, The Hemi is alot quieter than the Super Turbos. But you'll
get used to the exhaust hum. Any hi-flow exhaust system will be noiser than
stock. Gotta pay for performance. I have 2 Super Turbos in my truck and
like them very much. Isn't the Hemi also known as the Ultraflow? What
ever you do, don't get Borla or Slowmasters.. Talk about loud.
Louis
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From: SAVE@cpva.saic.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 1994 16:00:15 -0700 (PDT)
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Cc: SAVE@cpva.saic.com
Subject: News From the Front . . .
Well, I've been sorely remiss in posting to the list for several months now, but
the low level of traffic seems to indicate that everybodies been pretty busy
too. So Chris, I humbly beg your forgiveness, oh humble and most generous
list-sensei. . . .
Anyway lots of odds and ends here so READ ON!!
First, the matter of my HEADER QUEST. Yes, after losing my beloved $35,
18 gauge steel plumbing (though it served me faithfully for almost 8 years)
I decided it was time to give the old girl a set of new pipes. Well many phone
calls insued to various manufacturer's too numerous to mention. I finally sought
out old Doug Thorley himself who, as you know, supplies TRD with tri-Y's. Well
after asking some questions I inquired as to where I might obtain the best
price (Hey its always worth a shot, ain't it). "J&M Performance" (caution here,
its been a while but this sounds right) was the reply. One more phone call and
the opportunity to purchase Tri-Y's for $189 (US) was staring me right in the
face. Yes, that's right, TRD up the street wants $329 for the same pipes, I
was pretty palpitant to purchase pipes at such a preposterously precious price!!
Granted, this is still a pretty steep price, but the gauge steel suits my
fancy and they're TRD blessed. Needless to say, I jumped at the offer. Now,
what about these old Tri-Y's. Fit and finish is crude. Everythings slip fitted
and welded, as opposed to butt welded (read this as EXTRA WASTED WEIGHT).
Adapting to my existing system, which has maintained the basic stock geometry,
required HEAVY hack saw and multiple fitting action. No problem here other than
verbally I was led to believe this wouldn't be necessary. I should have known.
The collector extension slips over the header reducer but no u-bolt was included
to seal up the joint (Thank God for J C Whitney - SS u-bolts for under $10).
All the hardware was standard steel. No thanks, I replaced it with stainless.
Finally there's that damn chrome job. Like I said, its crude and obviously a
waste due to the temperatures. For know I'll live with it.
I did locate and call the Jet-Hot people to see what that's all about. My
personal feeling is their making a fortune based mostly on hype. First, I
won't argue with the durability of such a coating system. But all these claims
about horsepower gains, reduction in temperatures, and other hokum regurgitated
by second hand sales-droids I found a bit tiring. To add insult to injury they
wanted $230 +$20 to do my headers and I had to pay for shipping both ways. They
didn't say whether Vasoline was included as part of the package.
Enough on headers, onto mufflers. Chris's post I while back contained some
interesting data that might help us postulate horsepower gains resulting from
swapping only mufflers. I seem to recall the spread was something like 5%???
Granted there's more to the picture, but the article at least provides us with
hard data on what a low restriction muffler can do for our cars. I must
admit that when I found a SS Borla in the J C Whitney catalog for $80 (with 10%
discount) I grabbed one. The inlet on my Flowmaster was starting to show some
serious rust so I felt justified. My opinion is Borla builds one of the best
mufflers around.
Oh yeah, there was lots of talk on K&N's a while back. I run with one, BUT
I've severely chopped up my airbox to get all I can out of it. If you drop one
right in to the stock system I think your selling yourself short on its full
potential. For fuel injected engines I'll admit its not always easy, but for
us carb-weanies, wiping out the airbox is the way to go. AND that place that
claims a BIG discount on K&N's. Well, out of curiousity I called and they
listed the filter I was using for $36. The local performance shop will sell
it for $25!!!! You make the call (misleading advertising if you ask me).
Then there's my damn suspension!!! I'm about to pull the urethane bushings
out of my front control harms. TOO DAMN HARSH. John Hacker mentioned this
a while back and was right on. Every where else the new bushings are fine, but
for my set up, the control arms ride better with rubber. I'm also pulling out
my old, and I mean old, Turn-Six sway bars. Chris and I talked about
suspensions a little off line and we both agreed mods should be approached
with caution and discretion. The '78 Celica rolls about like a beached whale in
a stock configuration so I'm convinced front and rear bars are necessary, more
in the front than the rear. Well, I settled on ADDCO bars based on their
reputation as well as the great technical support I received when I called to
ask some questions. Their front bar is 1" and the back is 3/4" for the early
Celica's.
ADDCO makes adjustable end-links which I plan on getting also to give be some
tuning flexibility. By the way, I haven't done any REAL engineering myself to
determine if the diameters are what I really need. I'm probably putting too
much trust in ADDCO, but we shall see. By the way, JC Whitney (getting tired of
hearing that name I bet!!!) sells ADDCO bars for half the going rate, so check
it out.
Finally, I'm about to mount Yokohama A509's 195/60's on my 15x7 rims. THANKS
John Lupien for the recommendation. I'm running RE71's on my 944 and am very
pleased, but I felt the A509s might have an edge over the RE71's four year old
design. Got them from the Tire Rack (nothing new there).
Jeez, what alot of bandwidth!! last two note's. First, seems like there's
been some traffic regarding "to mod, or not to mod". I say "to mod". Its good
clean grease under the finger nails fun that gives you seat of the pants
satisfaction. Just keep the old parts and try not to cut too much metal, trust
me. AND I think Chris is going to talk me into a new Weber one of these days.
Heck, I've got nothing left to do on the damn car after that, or maybe I
could . . . .
Clark
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From: SAVE@cpva.saic.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 1994 17:02:10 -0700 (PDT)
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Cc: SAVE@cpva.saic.com
Subject: LC Engineering Catalog
Chris wrote:
>LC Engineering is an excellent catalog, jammed full of performance
>information, but it was more 2xR engine related, and focused a bit more
>on trucks than on Celica's. That may have changed. Anybody with the
>new catalog want to give us a review?
Drool, drool, drool . . . .
Like you said, lots and lots of 2XR engine stuff. Sexy layout and way, way,
way out prices. Information content (for me) was minimal, but its interesting
with regards to what their shop is up to with my block.
Clark
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From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 94 21:22:40 EDT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: LC Engineering Catalog
> Drool, drool, drool . . . .
>
> Like you said, lots and lots of 2XR engine stuff. Sexy layout and
way, way,
> way out prices. Information content (for me) was minimal, but its
interesting
> with regards to what their shop is up to with my block.
>
> Clark
>
Hmmmm, they must have changed their content then if the information
content was not there. Their old catalog was great. Of course I know
several orders of magnitude more about the 2xR engine than when I first
got that catalog, so maybe it just seemed full of info. Or maybe they
did a TRD and dropped all hints of information. Too bad.
Chris
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From: baram@sdolan5.attmail.com
Date: 14 Apr 94 01:37:30 GMT
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: New Member
Yo guys,
My name is Andrew Young and I was registered with your group by my brother,
Errol. However, I have seen the list of members and where my name appears the
year of my car is wrong. It is 85 instead of 84. Also, I have a 82 starlett
that has the stock 4KC engine with the 33/50 down draft Weber coburator (sp).
My question is: Has any one tried to increase the 4AGE engine (US version)
from 1.6 to 1.7 litres? and if did, how much more horse power is it than the
original 1.6.
Reason I am asking this question is that my friend , a mechanic with toyota
modification experience, said that if I increase my engine to the 1.7, I would
get approximately 30 more horse power and putting the exhaust cam on the
intake will increase that conversion approximately another 20 more horse
power. However, I will have to change my differential to a lower gear ratio
to compensate the power.
Also, are these conversion feasible?
Thanx,
Andrew...
BARAM DE DON.......
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From: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 1994 01:05:51 -0700
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Valentine 1 and CHP
On Apr 13, 11:44pm, Phillip Dang wrote:
> Subject: Valentine 1 and CHP
>
> Hi Allan, you're not worried about the CHP pulling you over and
> discovering that you have one of them gizmos?
No not at all... It's not illegal in California.
> I don't think the officer would like to see it.
He may just get alittle peeved but nothing more. He/she may be more
prone to issue a ticket.
> I was reading on rec.autos about stashing the
> radar detectors right before being pulled over, but I think the police
> would be sharp enough to know what the driver is up to.
Very true, but not highly recommended. You want to draw as little
attention as possible. And attempting to stash the detector at the last minute
sure does not help... It means the officer will see that you are attempting to
hide something... in order to pull you over the officer is usually right behind
you. Under most police procedures, an officer will further investigate if
anything has aroused his/her suspicions. You would definitely not want to make
him suspect you to be a drug dealer or something.
You can say I have been pulled over more than once in my lifetime
*hahaha*.
> Also, something about bouncing the radar off reflective signs such as exit
> signs...
That is why the Valentine-1 is such a detector of choice. The only way
the officer picks up those reflected signals is usually with a VG-2 (a radar
detector detector). And the Valentine-1 is a very well shielded unit (see C&D
comparison). The only other detector that came close was the BEL ???? (Excuse
me I don't quite remember the model #). And if it is a reflected signal...
unless you are the only one around, I believe the officer would have a really
hard time attmepting to discern who sent off the signal.
Well, that is my little plug for Valentine-1. Hmmmm, I wonder if I
send him this email... he will give me a really big discount.
Latas,
Allan Chen
Silicon Graphics Inc.
Mountain View, CA
allanc@sgi.com
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From: allanc@sydney.corp.sgi.com
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 1994 08:17:34 -0700
To: baram@sdolan5.attmail.com (Andrew Young),
Subject: Re: New Member
On Apr 14, 1:37am, Andrew Young wrote:
> Subject: New Member
> Yo guys,
>
> My name is Andrew Young and I was registered with your group by my brother,
> Errol. However, I have seen the list of members and where my name appears
the
> year of my car is wrong. It is 85 instead of 84. Also, I have a 82 starlett
> that has the stock 4KC engine with the 33/50 down draft Weber coburator (sp).
Wassup dude, welcome to the list.
> My question is: Has any one tried to increase the 4AGE engine (US version)
> from 1.6 to 1.7 litres? and if did, how much more horse power is it than the
> original 1.6.
I do know that TRD makes a stroker kit to make a little 1.6 to a 1.8.
I am not certain of the horsepower figures either. Might be something to
investigate with TRD. Darn, Roger our Starlet/4AG guru is not on the mailing
list at the time... but will be back soon. I hope.
> Reason I am asking this question is that my friend , a mechanic with toyota
> modification experience, said that if I increase my engine to the 1.7, I
would
> get approximately 30 more horse power and putting the exhaust cam on the
> intake will increase that conversion approximately another 20 more horse
> power. However, I will have to change my differential to a lower gear ratio
> to compensate the power.
Why? Are you planning to build a little peppy, zingy, quarter-horse
that will do road courses well or a little top-speed demon?
> Also, are these conversion feasible?
Sound very feasable :^).
Latas,
Botoboy
Silicon Graphics Inc.
Mountain View, CA
allanc@sgi.com
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From: SAVE@cpva.saic.com
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 1994 9:34:21 -0700 (PDT)
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Cc: SAVE@cpva.saic.com
Subject: Re: New From the Front . . .
I wrote:
[snip]
>I finally sought
>out old Doug Thorley himself who, as you know, supplies TRD with tri-Y's. Well
>after asking some questions I inquired as to where I might obtain the best
>price (Hey its always worth a shot, ain't it). "J&M Performance" (caution
>here, its been a while but this sounds right) was the reply. One more phone
>call and the opportunity to purchase Tri-Y's for $189 (US) was staring me
>right in the face. Yes, that's right, TRD up the street wants $329 for the
>same pipes, I was pretty palpitant to purchase pipes at such a preposterously
>precious price!!
[snip]
Slight correction (but I warned you), it was J&M Speed Center, Riverside CA.
Phone (909) 688-7110
Clark
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From: tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 94 17:57:52 HST
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: 5AGE Motor Attention Andrew (4AGE .30 Bore)
From: baram@sdolan5.attmail.com (Andrew Young)
Date: 14 Apr 94 01:37:30 GMT
>Yo guys,
Aloha Dude... (Gee... why don't we have any females on here ? I know there
are tons of female types down here that do conversions to their toys...)
>My name is Andrew Young and I was registered with your group by my brother,
>Errol. However, I have seen the list of members and where my name appears the
>year of my car is wrong. It is 85 instead of 84. Also, I have a 82 starlett
>that has the stock 4KC engine with the 33/50 down draft Weber coburator (sp).
Woah a 33/50 ?!?!?! Thats like an old Racing downdraft carb... wow... I wanted
one of those... of course... I did drill out my jets to about that side...
Look for a dual carb manifold for your starlet... big time improvement
although ya gada turn ya carbs so often the Progressive type is pretty stable
and you can run up to or as low as 15 second quarter mile time slips with one..
>My question is: Has any one tried to increase the 4AGE engine (US version)
>from 1.6 to 1.7 litres? and if did, how much more horse power is it than the
>original 1.6.
Hmmmm.... I basically didnt jump on this cause I thought someone else would
but anyways.... the motor you are looking for in stock form is the 5AGE which
comes in the 94 Corolla's. It is a 1.7 block twin cam 16 valve motor.
You could basically just buy the newer block and build that but -shrug-
anyways... that wasn't your question.
>Reason I am asking this question is that my friend , a mechanic with toyota
>modification experience, said that if I increase my engine to the 1.7, I would
>get approximately 30 more horse power and putting the exhaust cam on the
>intake will increase that conversion approximately another 20 more horse
>power. However, I will have to change my differential to a lower gear ratio
>to compensate the power.
Errrrr.... Basically your mechanic friend is correct. However the exhaust cams
and the intake cams are interchangeable but in stock form ya... you can get
away with that... but why ? I see for performance reasons but if you gonna
go and purchase another "cam" weither intake or exhaust why not just go out
and buy a new set of cams ? Or Am I missing something here...
Boring will always increase horsepower but this also involves head work and
also piston work also. In this case you can buy the "stock" 5ag pistons and
shove those in there. Or... you could go with Weisco Piston set or Arias
pistons or even well... it comes down to a question of forged vs cast pistons
I have my own opinions about this and my own gripes...but to each their own.
Actually with the TRD cams and a dual carb set up with stock gearing you
can take your 4AGE upwards to speeds of 150 mph with over 8000rpm.
I wouldn't change your "stock" 4.3 gearing on your car. A New LSD would be nice
although.
Horsepower figures are available through TRD if you ask the right people,but
the 4AGE bore took them up towards 1.7 but they also did head work and intake
work also which is necessary.
Do you wanna use a "stock" head with no intake mods ? Stock Cams ? Etc ?
Other then that its kinan hard to figure out... espically with a 4age motor
that is infinately tuneable for all different situations...
>Also, are these conversion feasible?
Feasiable.... anything you wanna do for your own purpse is feasable... just on
how serious ya wanna get =)
>Thanx,
>Andrew...
Sorry I didn't answer much... but if ya pondering... Call RJ and ask
them about their convesions =)
>BARAM DE DON.......
Asta La Pasta (Or something...)
Oh... Side comment... if your car is a Corolla GTS from 1984-1985 you have the
big stickers "twin cam 16 valve" on the side or such and also have a sunroof
option then you also have the speed and rev limiter. Your top speed is 120
mph then you have a fuel cutoff and in some models the motor will rev till
7500 then shut the motor down... on 1986 GTS models and up you can hit your
rev limiter and bounce it like crazy...
- Allen T "Koji" Kam Bubbling as usual...
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| Allen T "Koji" Kam tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu |
| Life Life... koji@io.soest.hawaii.edu |
| Taste Death... koji%interact.uucp@netcom.com |
| Speed is Pure !!!!! |
| Don't let up till you see RED !! 1980 Toyota Trueno SR-5 Sports Coupe |
| Advan Racing / HKS / MSD / SSR / Toyota Raci