^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^
^^^                                    _______                              ^^^
^^^                                  ,'         - _                         ^^^
^^^                        ________,'__________>>>   - _ ^                  ^^^
^^^                    , '                               |                  ^^^
^^^               ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~.  _  I\/I I~I I~\ <~               ^^^
^^^                I  I_I  |  I_I  I  I~I     I  I I_I I_/ _>               ^^^
^^^                    `---\__/----------------\__/----'                    ^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^
^^^                       P O S T I N G S    Oct 1994                       ^^^
^^^                       ---------------------------                       ^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: brakes
To: tm@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Sat, 1 Oct 1994 15:56:15 +0200 (EET)

My front pads are toast, so I'm going to need a new set soon.
The standard toyota pads are ok for normal street driving, but
aren't enough for even the occasional visit to the track...
Any brand recommendations, sources, prices? My front brakes
are the cooled ones found in Celica Supra & Celica GT-S (-'85).

-- 
Matti Kalalahti	        | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 	
k124476@ee.tut.fi       | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 165hp * 210-227Nm@4-5.5k
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://www.cs.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: Sat, 1 Oct 94 20:23:01 EDT
From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer)
To: tm@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Keyed!

If its down to the metal, get that metal covered with something thicker than
wax!

If your paint is pretty fresh looking (as you indicate that it is) you may 
be able to fix it up enough that it isn't too bad.  You won't make it un-
noticeable, but it will be hidden to the casual observer.

Get the color-code matched paint from Toyota.  Get some sand paper and smooth the spot out.  This will mean you will have to take some (ok, a bunch) more
paint off.  Not for the weak hearted!  Basically smooth it all down.  Now,
get some good primer in a can and apply it with an air brush.  I've got a
really nice one I can loan you if you can get an air source, or you can drive 
down here one weekend and we'll do it at my house (about 2.5 hours from you.)

(Several iterations of primer/sand to smooth follow...)

Now, air brush on the paint from Toyota.  The air brush will allow you to
blend it in.  (...couple iterations of paint/sand until it looks good...)

Now, either clear coat it or wax it (wait a couple of weeks befor you apply
wax to fresh paint).  I'd shoot a little clear coat on myself. 

As a minimum, this will keep the spot from rusting and getting worse.  If
you're really lucky, it'll match almost perfectly.  At any rate, it will 
save you the money of getting a complete new paint job, which is really the
only way to fix a bad spot (in my opinion.)  And, it should only cost you a 
few bucks.

Chris

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Date: Sun, 2 Oct 94 19:30:26 GMT
From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Comment I made about Rims...

I forget the comment I made..and frankly..i lost the mail 
I was supposed to reply on..
Basically it went something like this...

By changing to a smaller rim acceleration goes up and top speed goes down
however changing to a slightly bigger rim with the same wheel dynamics acceleration goes up and so does top speed.

Sorry i forgot to mention about motor loads and stuff. Actually if you go down
a rim size or so then ya acceleration does go up and you have less load on
the motor. And vica versa for larger rims. Ya put more load on the motor with
larger rims. Thus is why like for Turbo cars, a larger rim is sometimes
more attractive. To put load on the motor. This however decreases everyday
driviablity but you get better performance by like a bigger tire patch on the
road..but it depends on what ya wanna give up and not...

Hope this confuses ya all more =)

-koji

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To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Comment I made about Rims... 
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 94 10:45:06 -0700
From: danapple@vicor.com

> koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu writes:

> By changing to a smaller rim acceleration goes up and top speed goes down
> however changing to a slightly bigger rim with the same wheel dynamics accele
> ration goes up and so does top speed.

I'm not sure I completely agree with the "top-speed" relationship
posited here.  Top-speed depends on optimizing power vs. wind- and
ground-resistance.  It is possible that a lower final drive ratio
("smaller rim") can actually increase top speed.

In addition, the two halves of your sentance are contradictory, if
taken in isolation.  For instance, if I change to a bigger rim, my top
speed with go up.  Then, I change to a smaller rim, and my top speed
goes up again.

I believe to optimize top speed you need the equation for wind- and
ground-resistance of your vehicle, as well as the power peak of your
rear wheel power.  Find out at what ground speed you get resistance
equal to your peak wheel power.  Then gear your car to get your engine
to that peak power at that ground speed.

> -koji

Dan.

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Date: Mon, 3 Oct 94 14:29:29 EDT
From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer)
To: tm@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Going off the air for a bit...

I'll be moving from my current office on Wednesday, October 5th, into a 
new building.  Sometime around then (either that day or just after) this
machine, su102a, will go down for the move.  So, if you get some strange
bounces to your posts, you'll know why.

Status of Cyberspace:  Well, things never go as smoothly as planned, but I 
hope to get the Cyberspace machine moved over to the cyberauto.com domain
this coming weekend.  PROVIDING that InterNIC gets off their *beep* and 
registers my domain.  Usually it takes about 2 weeks, and I've been waiting
about 3.   As soon as I move the machine, TM will officially move to
cyberauto.com.

BTW, the business is moving along slowly but surely.  I have two catalogs
(almost) completed, and hope to have about 10 ready when I put the machine
on-line next  week.  Initially, it will be a Web-served catalog only, and 
it won't really be "open" for a couple of weeks.  I hope that everyone who 
can will browse the pages though and be really critical so I can have all
of the buggy stuff worked out before my "Grand Opening".  

Sorry I've been too busy to really contribute here.  Hopefully that will
change soon.

Chris

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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: Mods to my '88 Supra Turbo
To: goble@maxwell.ee.washington.edu (Brian Goble)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 94 15:01:21 EST
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com, supras@vicor.com

> I've been so busy at work that I haven't had time to tell everyone
> about the most recent mods to my '88 Supra Turbo.
> 
> I got:
> 
>   HKS PowerFlow
>   HKS EVCII
>   HKS Boost Gauge
> 
>   (note that I already had an HKS Turbo Exhaust)
> 
> The only bad part to these mods were that my stock computer seems to
> want to shut off boost at about 10.5 psi--most shut off boost around
> 14 psi.
> The solution is to get the HKS PFC-FCON to over-ride this and also
> tweak the fuel mixture stuff.  This solution is gonna cost me around
> $1k (installed) but then I'll be up around 350 hp.
> 
Sorry but I have to ask this question...
How much does HKS gear cost over there??
in OZ, it is generally known to cost a bundle and the only thing that
it delivers over unbranded (or unknown name brands, or self made stuff) is
a nice box in which the parts sit in.  I don't own a turbo car but have
looked extensively at modifying one (wanted to know before I owned it) and
it costs heaps more if you use HKS gear.  A HKS turbo control centre (3
buttons for 100,150,200%) costs about A$1000.  this is much to dear for
what it is worth (especially when you can get look-a-likes for a lot less).
Why is it that most US (or Northern Hemisphere)engine builders immediately
go for HKS?? Is it really cheap there???  a HKS exhaust system here costs
about A$2000 (manifold and system, no cat conv., sorry we need that thing)
in stainless steel, way too many $$$$.

also, how did you work out 350hp??

> Spending a few grand on these gizmos will hopefully keep me happy
> enough so I can wait a little longer before buying an RX7 TT or
> Supra TT    :)
how is the new Supra (we don't get to see it here, in fact, we don't get
to see most Toyota performance stuff anymore, even the 4AGE is gone)

thanks for your impending thoughts, i just needed to know what all the
rage about HKS stuff is.  My uncle works with touring cars and Grp A 
rally cars and they quote about 350hp (flywheel) for the competition stuff,
running crazy boost (in fact he runs a Schnitzer outfit and they claim
320hp from a E30 M3 racer)

Ted

-- 
#############################################################################

   SSSS    X    X          TTTTTT   CCCCC
  S    S    X  X             TT    C            ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
  SSSS       XX     ----     TT    C            looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
    SSSS     XX     ----     TT    C
  S    S    X  X             TT    C
   SSSS    X    X            TT     CCCCC	"TALK TO ME" or ...

# FAN of Guru Swami Bugger the rest of you I'm alright thanks Jack... G #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^

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From: Gary H 
To: danapple@vicor.com, koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Subject: Re: Comment I made about Rims...
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 94 14:08:07 PDT

From: danapple@vicor.com
>
>> koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu writes:
>
>> By changing to a smaller rim acceleration goes up and top speed goes down
>> however changing to a slightly bigger rim with the same wheel dynamics accele
>> ration goes up and so does top speed.
>
>I'm not sure I completely agree with the "top-speed" relationship
>posited here.  Top-speed depends on optimizing power vs. wind- and
>ground-resistance.  It is possible that a lower final drive ratio
>("smaller rim") can actually increase top speed.
>
>In addition, the two halves of your sentance are contradictory, if
>taken in isolation.  For instance, if I change to a bigger rim, my top
>speed with go up.  Then, I change to a smaller rim, and my top speed
>goes up again.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing as well!  I agreed with what Koji
said until I read the contradiction (about the bigger sized rim causing
acceleration to go UP).

Gary

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From: "Allan Chen" 
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 09:03:16 -0700
To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Comment I made about Rims...

On Oct 2,  7:30pm, koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu wrote:
> Subject: RE: Comment I made about Rims...

> By changing to a smaller rim acceleration goes up and top speed goes down
> however changing to a slightly bigger rim with the same wheel dynamics
> acceleration goes up and so does top speed.

	Hmmm, I believe larger rim diameter promotes stability and not
acceleration for top_end... the physics explains (refer to section on angular
momentum of a toroidal object same mass i.e. gyroscopic effect).  Moment
increases exponentially regardless of mass so if the rim is farther away from
the center the greater the moment require to change the direction.

	The only explaination I could provide for the acceleration experienced
in a topend run would be that due to the increased moment it would require a
greater force to alter/change the direction of the wheel... therefore the
acceleration curve experienced would be more linear than let say a smaller
diameter wheel.

	But if this a top speed related question/explaination it would be a
horsepower/rolling friction issue and.  Your top_speed could be limited by your
gearing but ultimately if you are producing a top_speed machine it would the
horsepower you have to produce to overcome all the friction.  There is a old
saying in drag racing... "With enough horsepower you could make a brick go
300mph".  In that saying... it states that you could also overcome wind
resistance (drag) with enough horsepower.  A good example if you noticed that
as you are cruising along at about 100mph on Hwy 5 (not that I would *grin*)
you will notice that as it takes a while to slow down but as soon as you reach
about 70mph... the car dramatically decelerates quicker.  That is where air
resistance overcomes horsepower.  Same applies when an airplane stalls (but in
that situation there is no lift in the wings).

> Sorry i forgot to mention about motor loads and stuff. Actually if you go
down
> a rim size or so then ya acceleration does go up and you have less load on
> the motor. And vica versa for larger rims. Ya put more load on the motor with
> larger rims. Thus is why like for Turbo cars, a larger rim is sometimes
> more attractive. To put load on the motor. This however decreases everyday
> driviablity but you get better performance by like a bigger tire patch on the
> road..but it depends on what ya wanna give up and not...

	In this part... you are discussing about overcoming rolling friction.
 Bigger contact patches require more effort to overcome the resistance.

> Hope this confuses ya all more =)

	Yup you did your job... cause I'm all confused *hahahah*.

Latas,
Allan

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Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 23:00:13 EDT
From: cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer)
To: tm@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Going off-line for a bit...

Well, I'm taking su102a down so it can be move tomorrow morning.  If
everything goes as expected (Does it ever?) look for it to be back up
around noon EST tomorrow.  

Chris

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Date: Sun, 9 Oct 94 17:55:11 HST
From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Solo I

I ATTEPMTED to race Solo I in a car that was well prepared to my standards.

After about 20 hot laps with the WELL PREPARED CAR...

I saw GOD....

I thought I was gonna die.

The car was smoking and dying a slow death.

All the prepration and synthetics and such wasn't enough.
There was a need for more improvement...

Solo I is not for Wusses, or half prepared cars.

If ya think ya car is well prepared...try run Solo I
It bring ya into a whole new light...

- Allen T "Koji" Kam  - who saw God, Elvis and that Regis guy 
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| Allen T "Koji" Kam                               koji@mael.soest.Hawaii.edu |
|                                               koji%interact.uucp@netcom.com |
|  Live life, Taste Death...                                                  |
|                           Speed is Pure !!! Don't let up till ya see RED !  |
|    Autosport Hawaii / Automotive Performance Research / Nakata Research     |
|   Advan Racing / HKS / Jacobs / SSR / Toyota Racing Development / Yokohama  |
|  All except my self is an enemy in the jungle called a racing circuit.      |
|  Effective exhaust sound shakes the ground. A fight of proud and beautiful  |
|  brutes is about to start. No boday wants to see the sight of rival's tail  |
|                   Setting the Standards..... -Benchmark Racing              |
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*

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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: Solo I
To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 94 14:38:36 EST
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com

> 
> I ATTEPMTED to race Solo I in a car that was well prepared to my standards.
> 
> After about 20 hot laps with the WELL PREPARED CAR...
> 
> I saw GOD....
> 
> I thought I was gonna die.
> 
> The car was smoking and dying a slow death.
> 
> All the prepration and synthetics and such wasn't enough.
> There was a need for more improvement...
> 
> Solo I is not for Wusses, or half prepared cars.
> 
> If ya think ya car is well prepared...try run Solo I
> It bring ya into a whole new light...
> 
sorry to sound like an idiot, but I am going to...
What is Solo I????
what has to happen in it and how do you go about getting to it

Ted
-- 
#############################################################################

   SSSS    X    X          TTTTTT   CCCCC
  S    S    X  X             TT    C            ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
  SSSS       XX     ----     TT    C            looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
    SSSS     XX     ----     TT    C
  S    S    X  X             TT    C
   SSSS    X    X            TT     CCCCC	"TALK TO ME" or ...

# FAN of Guru Swami Bugger the rest of you I'm alright thanks Jack... G #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^

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From: "Allan Chen" 
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 1994 03:56:52 -0700
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Toyota Mods list
Cc: ferguson@ccgate.ari.ch

Guys,

	Here is a little something from a transplanted Stephen Ferguson...
 Something I thought would be quite interesting that Stephen would like to
share with us.

Latas,
Allan

--- Forwarded mail from Stephen Ferguson 

Is anyone out there on Chris's Toyota-Mods list?  I was until I moved to
Switzerland, and now I've lost the request address.  Could someone please send
me the address by PRIVATE reply so I can get back in touch with Koji et al?



Thanks for the tip.  I'll give it a try.  Hopefully in a few days I'll be able
to tell you guys all about the lovely Toys here in Switzerland (as well as the
Escort Cosworths, Lancia Delta S4's, Audi RS2's... I'm in heaven).

Stephen

--- End of forwarded mail from Stephen Ferguson 

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Date: Thu, 13 Oct 94 13:58:07 EDT
From: cmyer@SU102A (Chris Myer)
To: tm@SU102A
Subject: Testing, 1,2,3...

Hello?  Anybody getting this?  My simple computer move turned into a OS-
reinstall nightmare!  Some of you send mail (either to me or the group or
both) so I can see if I've got everything back yet.

Chris

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To: tm@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Electric cooling fans
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 94 11:39:11 -0700
From: danapple@vicor.com

Well, my MA61 Supra is now (intentionally) missing the engine-driven
cooling fan.  So, it's time to add one or two electric cooling fans.
What is the best way to do this?  Add fans right to the radiator, or
mount a fan to the shroud and continue to use the fan shroud as a
velocity stack?

Dan.

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Date: Thu, 13 Oct 94 14:40:51 EDT
From: cmyer@SU102A.ess.harris.com (Chris Myer)
To: tm@SU102A.ess.harris.com
Subject: testing 4,5,6

Yes, its a Sun.  No, I don't know why my full path name doesn't get appended 
in the from line.  All I know is that something is causing this thing to 
occasionaly go into a mail loop from hell and repeatedly send mail back and
forth between my machine and another here in this building at speeds only
imaginable on a computer.  As a matter of fact, I thing it is about to go into
another looping frenzy!  Doh!  Stay tuned....

Chris

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Date: Thu, 13 Oct 94 15:24:43 EDT
From: cmyer@SU102A (Chris Myer)
To: tm@SU102A
Subject: Re: Electric cooling fans

> Well, my MA61 Supra is now (intentionally) missing the engine-driven
> cooling fan.  So, it's time to add one or two electric cooling fans.
> What is the best way to do this?  Add fans right to the radiator, or
> mount a fan to the shroud and continue to use the fan shroud as a
> velocity stack?

There's an excellent article in one of my Circle Track Magazines on why
shroud's are so important and how to design a good one.  I'll try to
remember to bring it in and write up a summary for the group.  I also have
a source for high-volume automotive cooling fans, and I'll give you the
info I have on them.

BTW, I changed the electric cooling fan on the Oldsmobile about 2 months
ago. The distributor wanted ~$130 for the motor, retail.  I used my 
car-dealer buddy's name (as if I were buying it for the dealership) and 
got it for less than $30.  Is this a great country or what?

Chris

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Date: Thu, 13 Oct 1994 15:00:26 -0700
From: JQL@ix.netcom.com (John Lee)
Subject: Re: Returned mail:  Host unknown (Name server: host not found)
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com

You wrote: 

>You wrote: 
>
>>
>>Hello?  Anybody getting this?  My simple computer move turned into a OS-
>>reinstall nightmare!  Some of you send mail (either to me or the group or
>>both) so I can see if I've got everything back yet.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>
>Booo!!!
>
>Wharrrrrrrrrr!!!
>
>Growllllll!!!!
>
>Opps! NOT Quite holloween yet.... I'll try to hold back till then.
>
>John Lee
>jql@ix.netcom.com

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To: Chris Myer 
Cc: tm 
From: Steven Jackson 
Date: 14 Oct 94 11:27:26 ES
Subject: Re: Testing, 1,2,3...

Hi Chris:

I got your test.

- Steven

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Date: Fri, 14 Oct 94 11:06:09 HST
From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Testing...

I can finger chris and su102a.ess.harris.com
but i cannot mail there =)

-Koji
(*blounce blounce*)

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Date: Fri, 14 Oct 1994 14:29:17 -0700
From: JQL@ix.netcom.com (John Lee)
Subject: Testing still???
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com

Well...
Got Chris' test msg @ 1-2 days ago... It got bounced back...
Well... While I'm here... 
	1. Whats up with http://cyberspace.cyberauto.com?
	2. Chris, hows your current racing efforts?
	3. Koji, what car/mods did ya race with in Solo I?
-john

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From: "Allan Chen" 
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 1994 15:40:45 -0700
To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Testing...

On Oct 14, 11:06am, koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu wrote:
> Subject: Testing...
>
> I can finger chris and su102a.ess.harris.com
> but i cannot mail there =)
>
> -Koji
> (*blounce blounce*)

	Yo Koji, whatever you do on your own time is your own business
*hahahaha*.

Latas,
Allan

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Date: Fri, 14 Oct 94 12:46:14 HST
From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Testing Still

 
>From JQL@ix.netcom.com Fri Oct 14 11:36:39 1994
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 1994 14:29:17 -0700
From: JQL@ix.netcom.com (John Lee)
Subject: Testing still???
 
>Well...
>Got Chris' test msg @ 1-2 days ago... It got bounced back...
>Well... While I'm here...
 
Heh.. WOB WOB ! =)
 
>        1. Whats up with http://cyberspace.cyberauto.com?
 
Ya.... I wonder if Chris is that new chip company in florida that does the
mods to their stock computers =)
 
>        2. Chris, hows your current racing efforts?
 
Chris's current racing efforts are great ! He's racing to get eberry thing
back online !
 
>        3. Koji, what car/mods did ya race with in Solo I?
 
For SCCA Solo I the car i tested was a 1987 Corolla GTS. Full TRD suspension,
race springs, shocks/struts (high pressure),poly urathane bushings,adjustable
end link bar,TRD antisway bars,strut tower bars (front and back),rally
cams,TRD cam timing gears,bigger injectors,headers,HKS exhaust,195/60's 14"
on 14 x 6" 1983 supra rims,TRD close ratio gears, quick shift,TRD lsd,
TRD 4.55 final drive gears. 5 point harness, SCAT racing seats,full synthetics
in motor and drive train. Cross drilled vented brake system. 12 Point Rollcage.
Lets just say... I died... the car is no longer in exhistance after my friend
took a turn at 150mph plus and sorta blounced the car off the highway
down here trying to race a dodge viper.
 
>-john
 
Oh...we ran the MSD ignition system. I no longer have faith in it since welps..
i do but i don't. for the GTS it worked great, however for like my friends turbo
supra we installed it and had to basically set it back to "stock" levels s
so it proved no big help. We are currently running the Jacobs and sad to say
its working a lot better =)

-Koji

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Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 03:15:03 -0700
From: JQL@ix.netcom.com (John Lee)
Subject: RE: Testing Still
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com

You wrote: 



>>        2. Chris, hows your current racing efforts?
> 
>Chris's current racing efforts are great ! He's racing to get eberry thing
>back online !
> 
Go Chris Go !!!! Hmmm.. Somehow it doesn't sound quite as good as "Go Speed Go!!"
BTW, any Speed Racer Fans within this group?
> 
>>        3. Koji, what car/mods did ya race with in Solo I?
> 
>For SCCA Solo I the car i tested was a 1987 Corolla GTS. Full TRD suspension,



>Lets just say... I died... the car is no longer in exhistance after my friend
>took a turn at 150mph plus and sorta blounced the car off the highway
>down here trying to race a dodge viper.

Gasp!!!! took a turn at 150mph??? so... did the viper take the same turn at speed??
 
>>-john
> 
>Oh...we ran the MSD ignition system. I no longer have faith in it since welps..
>i do but i don't. for the GTS it worked great, however for like my friends turbo
>supra we installed it and had to basically set it back to "stock" levels s
>so it proved no big help. We are currently running the Jacobs and sad to say
>its working a lot better =)
>
>-Koji

It is my understanding that the igniton of turbo supras are diffucult to improve upon
(computer).  Interesing that the Jacobs is better than the stock turbos' computer...

So...which would yyou recommend for my 18RG? MSD/Jacobs/Crane?  In a Toyota Truck 
catalog (Performance Products in Van Nuys, CA, free catalog 800-553-2840)
they are selling Jacobs system and it sounds really great, however, I would like some 
unbiased/real world opinions.  I'm currently running stock electronic ignition from 
78? 79? Celica and it seems ok but kind of 'ugly'.  I'm thinking of switching to a 
latter model ignitor (as described in TPH) and moving battery back (behind seat? or
trunk? decisions decisions...)

Whell... my clock sez 3:20 a.m. I best leave it a that and get xome ZZZ's

-john

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Date: Sun, 16 Oct 94 17:22:02 CDT
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@MBnet.MB.CA (Fred Oberbuchner)
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: T-mods WWW server?

Sorry for the WOB but out system was badly trashed and I am missing the
WWW server location for the TM home page.

Also, any update on the big switch for TM? All my mail for the last 3-4 days
got trashed so I am clued out (more so than usual!).

Thanks,
Fred
(fredo@mbnet.mb.ca)

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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 14:51:32 EDT
From: cmyer@SU102A (Chris Myer)
To: tm@SU102A
Subject: Back from Quidity

MAN!  What a major hassle!  Here's a quick synopsis:
(WARNING:  Some UNIX references follow.  1000 pardons!)

I change offices, and take my computer with me.

My old "buddies" get pissed, and take me out of their netgroup (NIS, Yellow-
pages, whatever you want to call it.)

Being heavily reliant on stuff on other peoples hard drives, my computer
becomes _worthless_!

(Long fruitless battle.  They try to get my computer back, and fail. I try
to get back onto the net group, and fail.)

I have to back all my stuff up, and reinstall the OS as a standalone machine.
This is painful, plus it leaves me with a total of about 50 MB of free disk
space on a half gigabyte disk after my home directory is added!

I think mail is working, and tell everyone to try it.  Suddenly, everything
starts bouncing to heck and back, and I totally fill my /var with bounce
messages!  :-(  

(Several fruitless days of trying to find the problem.)

Mailer starts working, and I can log in, but the machine I am now mounting 
for stuff doesn't have everything I like.  (Lucid Emacs, Color xterm, etc.)

I come in today, and my login has died.  My root password has changed.  My
mount to that other machine is not only dead, but the auto.master and auto.
direct files are _gone_!  Hacker, or rdist program run amuck?  I  think the
latter.  Time will tell.

Regarding many questions:

Yes, Koji was right again, racing to get my machine up.

Cyberauto.com is waiting on the pinheads at Internic to register my domain!
It's been like 5 weeks.  AARRGGGHH!!!  How long can it possibly take?  I hope
to move the machine over to my internet provider Wednesday if THE DING DONGS
at INTERNIC get me REGISTERED!!!

As far as the business:  Things are going fairly well.  I am going to make
make catalog available via the Web, but I won't be open for business for a
while yet.  I want everything to be flawless when the first new customers
take a look.  In the meantime, as soon as I get hooked up, would everyone
who can browse the web _please_ beat on my catalog pages and let me know
what you like, what you don't, what needs work, etc.  It is definitely a
work in progress.  BTW, I hope to get the automated email catalog and gopher
servers working shortly.

Ignitions were mentioned.  I can get Accel, MSD, Jacobs, and probably
anything else.  I am in a real quandry about what to carry as my main
line.  I've not been that impressed with Jacobs, but I do know a lot of
folks who have been real happy with them.  Accel is cheap, but it seems
to work sufficiently.  MSD costs more and has a better reputation, but I've 
heard some complaints about them.  Any suggestions?

Um, Koji mentioned "that chip maker in Florida."  That would be Superchips, 
owned by Peter Wales.  I've approached Mr. Wales about allowing me to 
market his products, but he adopted a "wait and see" attitude.  This is
fine, I think I will impress him.  I _will_ carry a line of performance
prom upgrades, and I think Mr. Wales would rather I provide a market, as
opposed to competition.  FWIW, he can be found around and about on the 
'net, so you might want to mention Cyberspace Automotive Performance in a 
positive light if you bump into him.  ;-)

Well, gotta run and get the rest of the bugs worked out with this system.
Sorry again for the glitches, and thanks for hanging in there for me!

Chris

PS:  Special bonus for anyone who can identify the book from which I take 
the word "Quidity" in the subject!

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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 20:37:52 -0600 (MDT)
From: Darin Ray Hamilton 
Subject: NOS
To: MR2 Interest Mailing List 
Cc: Toyota Mods Mailing List 

I'm considering adding a small (75-100bhp) NOS nitrous-oxide kit to 
either my present '86 MR2 or my future (grin) '91 MR2 Turbo.
Does anyone have any success/horror stories?
Does anyone have a good, cheap source for a quality kit (besides NOS 
directly)?
Does any company make a better NO2 kit than NOS?

                                         (. )(. )
------------------------------------###--\/\/\/\/--###-------
Darin Ray Hamilton
Faculty of Management, University of Calgary, Alberta, CANADA
e-mail: drhamilt@acs.ucalgary.ca

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Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 00:11:11 CDT
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@MBnet.MB.CA (Fred Oberbuchner)
To: Darin Ray Hamilton 
Cc: Toyota Mods Mailing List 
Subject: RE: NOS

>I'm considering adding a small (75-100bhp) NOS nitrous-oxide kit to 

Does this mean you have given up on the turbo idea? It sounded like
that was your first choice. (curious)

>either my present '86 MR2 or my future (grin) '91 MR2 Turbo.
>Does anyone have any success/horror stories?

Jackson Autosport out here has put a 2-stage NOS system onto a
super-modified Honda Civic DX (!!!) with EXCELLENT results.
(and another one on a Colt with similar results)
This car has had many mods and is now running a 14.1 sec 1/4
mile at 103 MPH which is very impressive at our track out here!
(modified F*or M*stangs with the super-5.0 run about 15+ secs)
Bear in mind that from what I have heard, NO2 is expensive and a
bottle doesn't last that long if you use it alot. (Someone mentioned
in the order of "minutes" under NOS boost for a full bottle!!!)

>Does anyone have a good, cheap source for a quality kit (besides NOS 
>directly)?

The kit on the Civic was from NOS from what I have seen. The only
advice I know of is to watch out for the cheaper kits. They sometimes
tend to delete things like low-fuel-pressure-cutoff solenoids which
are totally useless except that they prevent your engine from becoming
a heap of slag if you lose fuel pressure under NOS!!!

Regards,
fredo

fredo@mbnet.mb.ca

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Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 00:21:01 CDT
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@MBnet.MB.CA (Fred Oberbuchner)
To: tm@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: For sale: Electromotive HPV3 ignition

Hi all!

I am selling my Electromotive HPV3 ignition system (I think I posted
this some time ago?)

This is a direct-fire (also known as crank-fire) system for a 4-cyl
application. This setup deletes the distributor and takes the timing
signal right off the crank. It also has a serial interface to a PC
so you can set your timing curves via software. This is a really slick
setup for anyone with carbs!!! EFI would be somewhat more tricky depending
on the level of EFI integration.

I am asking $625 Canadian (shipping extra) to recover what I paid
for it.

I think I have finally convinced myself to save my pennies and go full
replacement EFI (Electromotive TEC-II system). Apparently the parts cost
is about $2000 though so I may be saving for a while!

If interested, drop me a line!

Thanks,
fredo

fredo@mbnet.mb.ca

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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 94 09:50:55 EDT
From: johnd@iplmaster.orl.mmc.com (John Deame)
To: PAH112@psuvm.psu.edu
Cc: supras@vicor.com, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Preferred Synthetic Oil For Turbos

"Peter Howard"  writes:

> Hello,
> 
> I was just wondering what viscosity of synthetic motor oil is preferred for
> the 87 Supra Turbo.  I would like to use Mobil 1 10W-30, but I have heard that
> Syntec 5W-50 is a better choice, because you can use it all year.

I had similar questions a while back, so I talked to a petroleum engineer
at Exxon who was well versed on the subject.  He summarized as follows:

1) Mobil 1 is the best oil in the US.

2) FM7 Oil Additive makes it better, racers have seen a 50% reduction in
boundary layer friction, resulting in up to 1 HP on stock-cars (racing).

3) as for what viscosity to use, anything with 2.6 MegaPascals/sec hi-temp
sheer rating (e.g.: any Mobil 1 product)

4) Polyalphaolefin based oils (like Mobil 1) tend to cause gaskets and
seals to shrink and harden whereas Dibasic Organic Esters (like AMSOIL)
tend to cause gaskets to swell. Note that Mobil 1 adds conditioners to
attempt to acheive neutral effects on seals.

5) Mobil 1 10w30 is the only grade which contains Molybdenum, an effctive
   friction reducing agent.

6) Mobil 1 should prevent pitting (corrosion) even with low sump level;
return cam to Mobil 1.

7) What causes the most damage to oils is cold starting and short trips.

As far as year-round use, all synthetics tend to flow better at cold
temperatures than their mineral oil counterparts, so 10W-30 should
be fine year-round.

Happy Motoring,
JED

----------------------------------------------------------------------
John E. Deame (JED)
johnd@iplmail.orl.mmc.com    
1984 Toyota Supra MA61
----------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: R.I.P. Carina 
To: tm@su102a.ess.harris.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 1994 17:25:21 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-l@bgu.edu

My Carina was stolen last night while I was at the university
reading mail :(
The police found it today, abandoned in a land dumping
place, stuck in the mud. The engine is toast, as there was oil 
sprayed all over the cam cover and intake side.
The suspension has had a hard time there too (it's no 4x4), 
there were marks in the front tires that they had touched
the wheel wells. Exhaust pipe had hit the ground.
My suitcase with 400+ pages of copied material was gone,
as well as the multimeter I used for monitoring the fuel mixture.
Of course the stereo was gone. The police who found it broke
a key in the ignition lock which couldn't be removed. 
The car got towed into the local Toyota dealer's back yard,
where I will tomorrow  meet the insurance company agent. So hopefully
in the next few days I will know whether it will be repaired
or totalled. Thank god I had the full insurance, but you
know how insurance companies are when it's their time
to pay... Anyway, weeks (or months) of work may have been
totally in vain.

-- 
Matti Kalalahti	      | RIP Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 	
k124476@ee.tut.fi     | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 181hp * 239Nm@5200
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://www.cs.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: Thu, 20 Oct 94 11:37:29 EDT
From: cmyer@su102a (Chris Myer)
To: tm@su102a
Subject: Getting there...

Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, but it was quiet anyway.  If you can do
a whois, do one on cyberauto.com.  For those of you who can't...

CYBERSPACE AUTOMOTIVE PERFORMANCE (CYBERAUTO-DOM)
   Cyberspace Automotive Performance
   1496 Hyacinth ST NE
   Palm Bay, FL 32907

   Domain Name: CYBERAUTO.COM

   Administrative Contact:
      Meyer, Christopher  (CM140)  cmyer@CYBERSPACE.CYBERAUTO.COM
      (407) 725-8742
   Technical Contact, Zone Contact:
      Blenke, Ian  (IB5)  iblenke@TACH.NET
      (407) 728-8081

   Record last updated on 19-Oct-94.

   Domain servers in listed order:

   NS.TACH.NET                  199.0.8.2
   NS1.SPRINTLINK.NET           144.228.1.40

Cool, eh?  Don't bother pinging yet, I haven't moved my machine over there yet.
As soon as I do and get the bugs worked out, we'll move TM  (and the TM Web
site) to its new home!  Too bad we haven't yet advanced enough yet to have
a 'net-party.  Oh, well, party amoung yourselves!

(I'm not even going to whine _yet_ about my name being mis-spelled.)

Chris

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Date: Thu, 20 Oct 94 06:13:21 HST
From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: RE: Getting There...

 
>   Administrative Contact:
>      Meyer, Christopher  (CM140)  cmyer@CYBERSPACE.CYBERAUTO.COM
 
>(I'm not even going to whine _yet_ about my name being mis-spelled.)
 
d00d ! Ya Famous ! Ya dat meat dude =)
 
>Chris
 
Maybe the'll change it to...

  Administrative Contact:
     Mayor, Christopher =)

Then ya'd be Mayor ! =)

Go Go Speed Racer =) (Ya i'm a fan 2)

-Koji

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Date: Thu, 20 Oct 94 10:07:57 PDT
From: edwang@lsil.com (Ed Wang - 7837)
To: johnd@iplmaster.orl.mmc.com, toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Re: Preferred Synthetic Oil For Turbos

Talking about synthetic oil, what's the life of Syntec 5W-50, in how many 
miles/monthes?

I used Syntec 5W-50 in my 4Runner V6 for two+ monthes/ 6700 miles and had
to replace it because I can hear the valves knocking sound. (No knocking 
sound after a normal oil change.)

I was told synthetic oil can last a long time, but...
What is your net wisdom's opinion?

Edward Wang  	(408) GEE-STEP	  Fax: (408) 954-4874

edwang@up171.lsil.com 

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Subject: Re: Preferred Synthetic Oil For Turbos
To: johnd@iplmaster.orl.mmc.com (John Deame)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 10:58:12 WST
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods)
From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" 

> > I was just wondering what viscosity of synthetic motor oil is preferred for
> > the 87 Supra Turbo.  I would like to use Mobil 1 10W-30, but I have heard that
> > Syntec 5W-50 is a better choice, because you can use it all year.

Interesting that the Mobil 1 you guys get over there is 10W-30, but I guess
this has to do with your outside temp. Over here 1deg N of the equator,
(yes, that wonderful country, Singapore ;-) ) where the weather is HOT and
WET all year round (daytime usually between 29 to 32) (nights 27 to 30 C)
(sorry, we've gone metric here, and I left my HP48SX in the car...).

Anyway back to what I was saying: the Mobil 1 that we get here is a 15W50
oil. Works great for me, costs S$70/4lit. approx US$48/1.06 gal. how does
this price compare with what you're getting over there?

Is Shell Helix Ultra a big thing over there?

bentan
-- 
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Benjamin T.P. Tan         | btptan@n201.f600.z6.fidonet.org    |
| law40034@nus.sg	    | btptan%nimajneb@csah.com		 |
| btptan@solomon.technet.sg | UUCP/Fido dialup: (65)560-6040     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------|
|     Caution:	      | Since we define terms using other terms, |
| I drive like you    | Man must be prepared to accept some terms|
| X-TM-INFO:TA40/2T-B | as intelligible without definition.      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

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Subject: Dumping a 2TG head on a 2TB (?!)
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 11:00:36 WST
From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" 

Just found a 2TG in working order at a scrap yard here. I was wondering if
it's possible to plonk that DOHC head on my existing 2TB. i.e. is the base
block the same? How much adapting will I have to do? Do I know what I'm
talking about?

bentan 
-- 
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Benjamin T.P. Tan         | btptan@n201.f600.z6.fidonet.org    |
| law40034@nus.sg	    | btptan%nimajneb@csah.com		 |
| btptan@solomon.technet.sg | UUCP/Fido dialup: (65)560-6040     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------|
|     Caution:	      | Since we define terms using other terms, |
| I drive like you    | Man must be prepared to accept some terms|
| X-TM-INFO:TA40/2T-B | as intelligible without definition.      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

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Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 02:54:56 -0700
From: JQL@ix.netcom.com (John Lee)
Subject: Re: Dumping a 2TG head on a 2TB (?!)
To: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" 
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com

You wrote: 

>Just found a 2TG in working order at a scrap yard here. I was wondering if
>it's possible to plonk that DOHC head on my existing 2TB. i.e. is the base
>block the same? How much adapting will I have to do? Do I know what I'm
>talking about?
>
>bentan 

You lucky dog! In the states (California to be exact), I've never seen a 2T-G 
in the self pick-n'-pull scrap yard.  However, I did find a 18R-GU @ 2 weeks
ago... Unfortunately, someone took the carbs, intake, valves, inner valve springs,
distributor, and waterneck.  Weird they didn't take the whole head...
anyway.... as I understand it, the 2T-B is the dual carb version of the 2T-C
soooo you should be able to 'plonk that DOHC head' on your existing 2TB. As far
as other stuff ya got to adapt, you will at least need the following:
	(assuming you have the whole head w/carbs waterneck & ex. manifold)
	-timing chain cover
	-No. 2 timing chain
	-No. 1 timing gear
	-camshaft drive gear
	-pump drive shaft
	-chain tensioner slipper
	-pistons (maybe...)
	(It's more understandable with pictures... hmm.. Uh Chris...
	 wanna add something like this in the WWW web? Maybe something
	 like [2T to 2T-G], [18R to 18R-G], [4A to 4A-G can this b done?]
	 yeah I know its easier to buy the whole darn motor but kinda 
	 difficult to do solo in salvage yard w/o renting a cherry picker)
For 18R/RC owners add the following:
	-pistons
	-distributor
	-oil pump (may not be necessary)
	-oil pump drive gear
	-oil pump drive gear cover
	-oil pan (stock doesn't have anti-sloshing baffles)
Well, I think that abouts covers it... but if I'm missing something (hey! 
its @ 3am as I'm typing this in), please ammend this checklist (ok koji,
yeah, the gaskets, how could you forget the gaskets).

I'm going to sleep now,

-John

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Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 07:05:48 EDT
From: cmyer@su102a (Chris Myer)
To: tm@su102a
Subject: Re: Preferred Synthetic Oil For Turbos

I'm paying about $3.90 US plus tax (6%) for a quart at Wal-Mart.  ($15.60
per gallon.)  BTW, we have 15W50 over here too.

Chris

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Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 07:17:05 EDT
From: cmyer@su102a (Chris Myer)
To: tm@su102a
Subject: Re: Dumping a 2TG head on a 2TB (?!)

> However, I did find a 18R-GU @ 2 weeks
> ago... Unfortunately, someone took the carbs, intake, valves, inner valve 
> springs,
> distributor, and waterneck.  Weird they didn't take the whole head...

Say, what do you think they'd want for the head?  Did you ask?  I'd be
very interested...

[*Excellent description of things to buy when changing over to a -G engine
saved to my info/auto/toyota/general directory...*]

> 	(It's more understandable with pictures... hmm.. Uh Chris...
> 	 wanna add something like this in the WWW web? Maybe something
> 	 like [2T to 2T-G], [18R to 18R-G], [4A to 4A-G can this b done?]

As a matter of fact, we had considered that, and Fred (I believe, but its
been a long time) even sent me some nice scanned images out of the Toyota
manual.  One reason I didn't post them was copyright concerns.  However,
if Phillip keeps working on our Toyota contacts, we might get more than a
few pictures in the future...

Chris

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Date: Sun, 23 Oct 94 10:33:04 MEZ
From: Stephen Ferguson 
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Replacement body panels

Hello all,

Does anybody know a US or Canadian source for replacement body panels for the 
84-87 RWD Corolla Liftback?  Steel or fiberglass are both ok (actually, glass 
panels would be rather nice to get the weight down).

Thanks,
Stephen

p.s.  I'm still not receiving any toyota-mods mail, but I haven't gotten any 
strange messages back that my subscription request bounced either.

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Date: Wed, 26 Oct 1994 13:08:09 -0700
From: Joe Woodsprite 
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com
Subject: Porting and polishing Heads on a 22R

Forwarded from the regular Toyota list:

>From toyota-l@bgu.edu Wed Oct 26 12:06:01 1994
Received: from fsa.ecn.bgu.edu (root@fsa.ecn.bgu.edu [143.43.33.204]) by CSOS.ORST.EDU (8.6.9/8.6.6) with SMTP id MAA22699 for ; Wed, 26 Oct 1994 12:06:00 -0700
Received: from  ([127.0.0.1]) by fsa.ecn.bgu.edu with SMTP id AA12924
  (5.67a/IDA-1.5 for ); Wed, 26 Oct 1994 14:04:09 -0500
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 1994 14:04:09 -0500
Message-Id: 
Errors-To: mutrh@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu
Reply-To: toyota-l@bgu.edu
Originator: toyota-l@bgu.edu
Sender: toyota-l@bgu.edu
Precedence: bulk
From: jetboat@hydra.unm.edu (Bret Martin)
To: Multiple recipients of list 
Subject: HEAD: protort and polish
X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas
X-Comment: An interactive discussion of all Toyota vehicles
Status: R

Hi All,
I have a 68'86 $4X4 with a 22rR.  I just b got a motor to rebuild and
I am going to port and polish the head.  I have done this on a
V-88 before but never a Toyota.  If anybody has ever done this 
before would you please write me and give me any precautions, 
or try to talk me out of it.  I would sure appreciate it.

Bret Martin
jetboat@unm.hydra.@hydra.unm.edu

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Subject: Meters (gauges) adapting/creating.
To: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods)
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 94 0:48:03 WST
From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" 

Ok, a non-engine mod question for a change. (no rules against this right?) 
My temp guage just died and a friend's fuel guage has been dead for awhile.
Problem with owning a TA40 or T20 in Singapore is spares. There aren't many
of these at the junk yards and even less on the roads. i.e. I can't get a
replacement meter anywhere. 

Solution that I've decied on is to have a little DIY a la circuit cellar
fun. That is, make a meter out of LEDs and a couple of ICs. I realize that
getting a meter for (say) a KE70 (easily available) and adapting from there
(does it need to be adapted at all?) is probably easier, but heck, time is
what we've got here. Besides I've always liked the digital dash in e.g. the
929 Mazada.

What I need to know is the kind of signals that come in for fuel, temp, oil
pressure, batt charge, etc.. Also, if anyone has it, the pin out for the
connector would be very helpful. Yes, I know I'm being lazy here, but
testing every lead and deducing which is which and what signal range I'm
getting is something I'd like to avoid, if possible. Really appreciate any
help here. Also, any comments as to what I'm doing... ("Yeah man! Sound like
a great idea!", "Heck, this is the most brain dead thing I've heard of all
year." or anything in between)

bentan
TA40/2T-B

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To: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" 
Cc: toyota-mods@su102a.ess.harris.com (mods)
Subject: Re: Meters (gauges) adapting/creating. 
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 94 08:07:28 -0800
From: danapple@vicor.com

> "Benjamin T.P. Tan"  writes:

> What I need to know is the kind of signals that come in for fuel, temp, oil
> pressure, batt charge, etc..

In case you get no better info, I think that often the senders for
those measurements are variable resistors (pressure or heat or
position dependent) that'll reduce the voltage from 12v in proportion
to the thing being measured.  So, for fuel, a full tank might be 12v
and an empty tank 0v.  It's also possible that the extremes don't wind
up at 12v and 0v, but 10v and 2v, or something, you get the picture.
A 20v voltmeter should be all you need to figure out the scale.  Fill
the tank, see what the reading is, drive till empty, see what the
reading is.

I can't help at all on the pinouts, but it sounds like a fun project.
If you get serious, you might even be able to see replacement "cool"
gauges in Singapore, since spares are so hard to find.

> bentan

Dan.

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