^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ P O S T I N G S Feb 1995 ^^^
^^^ --------------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 1995 09:36:05 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 22RE Mods--Smog Legal?
It would be more difficult to come up with 175 HP and be legal in Cali.
While _I'd_ never recommend it, you could keep your smog stuff in a box
in the garage and put it back on for inspections. (I'd recommend moving.)
Chris
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 1995 11:25:03 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Chevy in a Toyota
OK, you guys wanting to pervert your Toyota's with a Chevy engine...
It'll work. It'll cost a fortune, be hard as heck, but it will work.
However, let me recommend that you really consider what you are doing
before you take this route. Unless you are a mechanical engineer
with hundreds (thousands?) of hours under the hood, don't do it.
Consider this...for far less money, you can _conservatively_ boost
a 22R up to 160-175 _reliable_ HP. Sure this is a no-brainer on a
V8 chevy, but consider that you are adding _hundreds_ of lbs of
weight to a car that is _already_ very nose heavy--you'll never
get the push out of it. Don't even _think_ about putting a Toyota
tranny on that beast--it'll turn into a pretzel. Stock shocks and
springs are out of the question, unless you like 15 degress of
negative camber on both front wheels. Don't forget the overheating
problems. A 4 core radiator will be absolutely necessary in that
small engine compartment, which will probably force you to cut out
and rebuild at least part of the firewall.
Please don't take this too hard, however. There was a time when
your's truly wanted nothing more than to put a V6 Buick into his
4x4. Now, I say if you want a big motor, go get a cheap camaro or
Dodge dart and make a monster. If you want a huge truck, get a
nice full sized Ford with a Gorilla 460 in it. If you want a
classy vehicle that can spank almost anything else between stoplights
(or in the mud, if that's your bag) and still be economical and
reliable, then hop up that Toyota you already have with some simple,
proven technology.
Chris
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 1995 11:52:14 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Battery Info
What follows is some excellent general info summarized by Dan. Dan
wasn't sure if this was mods info or not, but I say "absolutely!"
Your battery is an integral part of your ignition system.
Understanding the information summarized below could very well mean
enhanced performance on the track or street. Likewise, it could mean
the difference between you Desert Rats getting home or spending the
night in the wilderness.
Those of you who race without an alternator (which I don't recommend)
should note that you are killing your battery by cycling it this way.
If you insist on doing this, you may want to consider the Marine/RV
Deep Cycle battery, rather than a standard automotive battery.
>>>>>Begin Forwarded Information<<<<<
Information from "The Complete Battery Book" by Richard A. Perez.
Copyright 1985. ISBN 0-8306-0757-9
Four types of Lead-Acid batteries concern us for vehicular purposes,
automotive starting, low antimony deep-cycle, high antimony
deep-cycle, and gel-cells. I'll go over characteristics of each.
But first, a general note:
A) The storage capacity (ampere-hour rating) of a battery is a function
of the surface area of the plates exposed to the chemicals.
1) Automotive Starting Batteries
It has one job only: to start your car. An average car uses more than
300 amps for a few seconds in order to start. The batteries are
constructed with a large number of thin plates of lead sponge. This
provides maximum surface area. The batteries handle only very shallow
cycling, on the order of 1% in normal use. The starting battery will
fail after approx. 100 cycles of 50%. Complete failure at 200 cycles.
The sponge disintegrates with the repeated full charge and discharge
chemical reactions. Leat particles separate from the plates and from
micro-short circuits inside the battery. This highly increases the
self-discharge rate. Maintenence-free batteries have added calcium to
the lead sponges to harden them and reduce water loss. The calcium
also increases the internal resistance, hence slowing self-discharge.
The expected lifetime of a starting battery in true starting use is
3-5 years. In deep-cycle service, expect less than 2 years.
2) Low Antimony Deep Cycle Batteries
These are run-of-the-mill "marine/RV deep-cycle" batteries. It's a
compromise between a starting battery and a true deep-cycle battery.
They are much closer to starting batteres, however. The plates are
somewhat thicker than starting batteries and have some added antimony.
It is not designed for powering large loads for a long time.
Deep-cycling will damage it, over time. In RV use, with usually no
more than 20% discharge, the battery should last 200-400 cycles. If
cycled 80%, expect a lifetime of less than 200 cycles, or about the
same as the starting battery. The thicker plates and antimony add a
bit of mechanical strength over the standard starting battery. In
float service, the battery will last 5-10 years, much greater than
starting batteries used in float service.
3) High Antimony Deep Cycle Batteries
This type is designed to be 80% cycled repeatedly for 5-15 years.
There is almost no mechanical similarity between this battery and a
starting battery. They are massive and huge. There are very few true
deep cycle batteries with greater than 6 volts, as they would be too
heavy to move by hand. The grids are over 4 times thicker than a
starting battery's grids. And there is several times the amount of
antimony in the grids. The plates are thick to add lifetime, not
capacity. (See A). The plates are not constructed of sponge, but of
scored sheets of lead with up to 16% antimony. The thickness of the
plates combined with the high antimony content lowers the energy
density, so this battery is heavier, larger and much more costly per
kilowatt-hour. The case is also much thicker, and the plates usually
leave a 1-3 inch space at the bottom to allow for accumulation of lead
particles, so that they don't cause micro-shorts. The top of the case
also has more space to allow for expansion of the electrolyte. Plates
can be removed and serviced. As the cell interconnect straps are
exposed, each cell's voltage can be measured individually. This
allows the user to determine when an equalizing charge is necessary.
Some batteries have "wrapped" plates, where perforated plastic is
wrapped around the plates to keep the lead on them longer. Such a
configuration add 25-35% to the lifetime of the battery. Such
batteries are mostly used for electric vehicles, which force a fast
80% or more discharge. They are then recharge much more slowly. A
350 amp-hr 12 volt battery weight 250 pounds and contains 4.5 gallons
of sulphuric acid. They can be cycled 80% between 1000 and 2000
times. Lifetime should be 5-15 years.
4) Gel Cells
This type is designed for portability. They are small and have a
jellied electrolyte. The case is sealed. The jellied electrolyte
allows the use of this battery in any orientation. They are used
often in aircraft and electronics. They are supposed to be clean and
usuable where acid vapors and spills are unacceptable. They can be
deep-cycled over long periods. They must not be charged or discharged
too rapidly, otherwise it can gas, possibly blowing the sealed case.
They are prone to sulfation if left discharged for a long time. With
proper care, a gel-cell will deliver 1000 cycles over a period of 5
years or more.
============
The conclusions I've reached given the information presented in the
previous mail message are that true deep-cycle batteries are
impractical for gas-powered automotive use. The choices then are
starting batteries, marine/RV deep-cycle and gel-cell. Due to
expense, the gel-cell is probably unnecessary except for exotic
reasons, like the 90 degree rotated, trunk mounted battery in the
Miata. In addition, the discharge rate limits of the sealed cell make
it singularly ill-suited for winching. For general automotive use the
marine/RV deep-cycle seems the best choice, if you can live with
somewhat lower starting current. For a dual battery system, I'd use a
marine/RV deep-cycle as the primary and an automotive starting battery
as the secondary. Normally, all loads, including the starter, would
be sourced off the deep-cycle battery. The starting battery would be
left on float unless the deep-cycle was fully discharged or unable to
cope with a difficult starting situation, like in cold climates. A
gel-cell would be reasonable as the secondary, if the cost was
acceptable. It's longevity might overcome the higher initial cost.
I saw over the weekend that Motorcraft has a series of marine/RV
deep-cycle batteries available. I saw them at Auto Parts Club. I
noted that Marine Cranking Amps are rated at 32F whereas Cold Cranking
Amps are rated at 0F. There was perhaps a 100 amp difference between
the two values, so beware. The batteries were also labeled as
"vibration resistant" so their use in offroad and rally vehicles would
seem reasonable.
In practice, the marine/RV battery in my car has proven very
dependable for the last 3 years. It's been more than 80% cycled
several times and has repeatedly suffered severe vibration on
washboard roads.
Dan.
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 95 12:37:26 EST
From: "Marc H. Bremmer"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: My Truck Mods
Hey Folks,
I just wanted to do a little write-up on what I have done to my
86 4x4 PU with a 22R. First thing I did was install a Header. It is a
JC Whitney unit I bought this from a guy for $35 and it looked pretty
well made. I had to drill some holes in the mounting flange
to get the the thing to fit (it is for a 20R I think). Then I realized
that the exhaust was wholly inadequate. So I put in 2.25inch pipe with
a Turbo Muffler. Ran better but not quite there.
I had a Weber 40DFAV carb so I made an adaptor plate and put the carb on
(with a very custom air cleaner). After all this I am having a little trouble still..
(aside from the fact that it needs a valve job). It is running rich in spots
and lean in other spots.. Boy does it need tuning.. After i get it all sorted out
I am going to put some Rancho RS9000's and some Downey 2" rear springs on and
crank the front up a little bit (IFS).
The header fits,but the flange that connects with the exhaust rattles
against the trasnmission/transfercase mount. I thought about disposing of this and
putting in a standard slip fitting and clamp. I also had to put some 3/8"
spacers under the sway bar mounts. Maybe i should have just bought a real header
for 180$ Naaa.. I like my settup and besides it is bargain basement.. I
would rather put some bucks in the suspension.
Marc
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Date: Thu, 2 Feb 95 08:43:44 PST
From: wg%rmats1@Riem.Com (Wayne R. Graves)
Subject: RE: HKS/TRD
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I have all my suspension mods done by Roger Kraus Racing in Castro Valley,CA.
So I don't know the answer to the question, but tell the person interested in
Toyota All-tracs to beware of 1988-1990 All-Tracs have heat problems, tell him
to buy something newer. Redesign of the intercooler and addition of an oil
cooler made them much more reliable. I think it was 91, it might have been 90, I
only have an 88, but I can tell you its a problem on the 88/89 for sure.
Wayne
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Date: Thu, 02 Feb 95 20:04:22 +0000
From: CAPTAIN CHAOS
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Home page
Just thought id let you know my home page is back up, along with some scanned
pictures of my old crashed celica and engine. Pictures of my current celica,
(the same but red) will be uploaded as soon as i can take some, and scan them.
The address is :
WWW Page : http://aurora.etsiig.uniovi.es:3080/~~prodigy
Be warned though, its a little slow, situated in spain, because my University
wont allow us to have our own Internet accessible home pages.. :(
Andy.
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"All good people are weak; they are good because they are not strong
enough to be evil." F. Nietzsche
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 02 Feb 95 17:01:23 MEZ
From: Stephen Ferguson
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: HKS/TRD
Hi all,
Someone in USENET world was asking me about differences between a
Celica All-Trac and a 323-GTX. After steering him towards the
Toyota (of course!) he asked about mods. I told him to check TRD
and HKS. Without my catalogs in front of me (they're back in
Canada) I couldn't remember how much overlap there was between
the two catalogs (ie. who sells what). From what I remember, all
the turbo mods are HKS's domain, with TRD re-selling HKS boost
controllers etc. Which company is better for suspension mods?
Stephen
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From: "Aaron Buhr"
Subject: Turbo rebuilt!
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods ML)
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 1995 18:28:28 -0500 (EST)
(Warning! Long story ahead... :) )
While the cyberauto mail system was having problems, I tried to send
a message about the turbo problems I was having. That message never got
through, so I've included it below. After that is the current update.
> (I've got a 1990 Supra Turbo, HKS VBC, HKS exhaust, K&N air filter)
>
> *sigh* Well, I'm starting to budget for a turbo rebuild. The
> fluttering noise is getting louder and more frequent. My best guess right
> now is that the noise is one of the turbo wheels scratching against the
> turbo housing. It happens now whenever I get _any_ boost and then let off
> quickly, whereas a few months ago it would only happen when I got way into
> the boost and then let off. If I let off boost slowly the noise doesn't
> happen. Plus the turbo feels like it's slower to get up to speed.
>
> I'm not at a situation yet where I _have_ to have the turbo rebuilt.
> I'm getting a moderate puff of white smoke when I start the car up cold, and
> the turbo still spins up to full boost, but I have little doubt that there's
> some problem there that's getting worse, and I'd rather fix the problem
> before a catastrophic failure of some sort occurs.
>
> Right now I'm leaning towards Turbo Auto. They'll do a rebuild with
> upgrade for $889. The upgrade apparently consists of porting & polishing
> the housing plus a new, redesigned compressor wheel. They claim a 28 HP
> increase at stock boost levels (6 PSI), so I expect to get maybe a 40-50 HP
> boost at 11-12 PSI.
>
> Some of the other prices I've come across, in case anyone's interested:
>
> Turbo Auto stock rebuild: $473
> Turbo City stock rebuild: $156 parts + $175 labor
> Majestic stock rebuild: $350-400
> Greddy TD06S/TD06SH turbo replacement (direct swap): $2090/$2181
> (from A-Z systems)
> HKS sport turbo upgrade: $2100
> (from Team Toysport in California)
>
> I'm considering doing the turbo swap myself. Not really a swap, since
> unless I bought one of the upgrade turbos I would have to remove my turbo
> and send it off, then wait for it to come back. In any case I don't think
> there would be much to pulling the turbo off/putting it back on. Does
> anyone know more about this process? Do I have to do anything special with
> oil lines/water lines to the turbo? Should I leave this to the "experts"?
> (I have yet to find anyone in my town that I think is qualified to handle
> modern-day turbo car problems -- here in the southeast, all they're familiar
> with are American V6s and V8s).
>
> Anyone have any other comments?
>
Now the update: I somehow overlooked Turbonetics in my initial
search for a good turbo repair shop. However I was reading my back
issues of Turbo magazines and saw story after story where folks had
turned to Turbonetics for upgraded turbochargers. So I gave them a
call and they said they could fix/upgrade my turbo for $575. I asked
if they had one-day-turnaround and they said yes (more on this later).
Since I had read so much about them and they had the cheapest upgrade
cost I went with them.
I had a local shop yank the turbocharger from my car and hand it
to me. I sent it off next day air by UPS, insured for $1500, for $51.
Turbonetics got it the next day. They (Sam) called me at the end of
the day and said that the turbo was actually "pretty clean" except for
one coked turbo bearing, apparently. He guessed that was causing the
fluttering/scratching noises I was hearing. Anyway they offered to
upgrade the turbo by installing an upgraded (Super "S") compressor wheel
and by clipping the exhaust wheel. Apparently the turbo housing had to
be machined to accept the Super "S" compressor wheel. Parts and labor
would come to $566. I told them to go for it, and Sam said they'd have
to send the turbo off to a another shop to get it machined.
That was Tuesday evening. They sent it off to the shop (apparently
in another town) on Wednesday, and as it turned out they didn't get it
back until Tuesday the next week, which delay sort of aggravated me. But
Tuesday they managed to get it back and put it all back together and sent
it off next day air again, for $41 shipping & handling plus $7 COD surcharge.
That was another sore point with me. On the first Tuesday, when Sam told
me what they could do for an upgrade, I offered my credit card number and
he took it without complaint. On the latter Tuesday, when virtually
everything was done, he called to tell me that they had a policy he was
unaware of, since he had just started working there. Apparently they had
a policy of a max of $250 on credit cards. Since I was not expecting that
I had not budgeted cash to pay for the turbo, but luckily I did have enough
on hand to do the COD thing.
Anyway, I got it back Wednesday and took it to the local shop I
had remove it, and they asked me if I had the replacement turbo gasket
they needed. This surprised me, because they had called me a week
earlier and told me they were going to need one, and I told them to go
ahead and get it. Somehow that was miscommunicated, so when I brought
the turbo to them there was no gasket. The gasket didn't come in until
Friday (the local Toyota dealer didn't have them in stock) and I didn't
get the car back until Saturday noon. Almost two weeks downtime, and
I was really itching to get back behind the wheel.
I spent all day Saturday and all day today driving around
enjoying the beautiful 55-degree sunny weather we're having here in
Florida. :) The low-rpm responsiveness of the car doesn't seem to have
changed much (still fairly laggy), but there is a pretty dramatic
improvement in the mid- to high-rpm response. The car really pulls
like a demon at any rpm above 3000, and if you're off boost at any rpm
above 3000 you can get boost RIGHT NOW. The car will accelerate like
crazy right up to the rev limiter, whereas before the turbo would peak
5000 rpm and start falling.
The real test however was Saturday night. Here in Gainesville we
have the Gainesville Raceway, the Gatornationals drag race track. I
had gone there a couple times previous to having my turbo replaced.
The first time I went we were rained out before the street cars got a
chance to go. The second time I was able to run once. Being my first
time, I was caught by surprise by how fast the start lights tripped
off -- all four in about a second, rather than one second each as I
was expecting -- and therefore got a terrible start. I only revved to
about 2000 rpm before letting out the clutch and really bogged the
car. Then I was so nervous that I accidentally pulled the shift lever
out of gear before I was ready to shift to second. The time was
pretty embarassing (16-something seconds) but I had an okay speed (92
mph) and figured I could do fairly well if I got my act together.
The next weekend I came back and was working the car out pretty good
on the way to the track. When I got there my alternator was making
weird noises and weird smells. You all might remember me telling you about
that a while back. I decided trying to do a drag run with a failed, smoking
alternator was probably a bad idea and backed out.
Anyway, after that various factors prevented my going back for a while,
and then I started to worry about my turbo and didn't want to drag race
with a marginal turbocharger. Well last night I gave the new turbocharger
a baptism by fire, more or less. :)
I should mention that I felt sort of out of place at the
Gainesville Raceway. In all the three or four times I've been there,
I've been virtually the only foreign car racing (out of maybe 40
strip-only cars of various types and 50 street-ish cars) and certainly
the only Japanese car on the track. The one possible exception to the
no-foreign-cars observation might be a Triumph-bodied pro stock car,
but since it has a Chevy engine I don't consider it a real foreign
car. :) With all the pro-stock and funny car rednecks out there and
the street Mustang, Camaro, and Corvette owners I felt like a real
outsider. :)
Anyway, my first run of the night I was determined to avoid the
bog problem, so I dropped the clutch at 4000 rpm. The results were
less than pleasing:
Reaction time: 1.163
60': 4.079
330': 9.405
660': 12.938
mph: 71.54
1000': 15.821
1/4 mile: 18.233
mph: 94.18
I spun my wheels for at least 50', going as much sideways as forward,
before I got traction and started gaining velocity. It took me more than
4 seconds to go 60'. I can RUN faster than that.
At this point I wasn't feeling too great about my ability to show
these rednecks that Japanese cars deserve respect too, but I got back
in line and went around for another try. I appreciated at that point
that too many rpm was as bad or worse than too little, so I dropped
the clutch between 3000-3500 and sped off! The launch felt pretty
good to me, though I wasn't familiar enough with the new turbo to hit
optimal shift points. So on my second and last try of the night (they
moved on to the money competition series and forced me out) I got
these results:
Reaction time: .956
60': 2.288
330': 6.214
660': 9.419
mph: 77.47
1000: 12.160
1/4 mile: 14.473
mph: 97.70
14.47 @ 97.7 mph! Not bad for my third try ever. It made me
happy, for now at least. I'm pretty confident that I could get down
in the 14.0-14.2 @ 100-102 range with better tires and more practice.
I'm not sure when I'm going to go back to the track though, because
those drag runs are pretty hard on the car, especially clutch & tires,
and I don't have any money left over right now to pay for either. I'm
satisfied for now that I can run with any of the new sports cars (RX7,
300ZX, Corvette, 3000GT), excepting the new Toyota Supra Turbo. :) And
on that last run I think I finally garnered a measure of respect among
the rednecks for the old 'yota. :) I'm going to go back next week and
see how the competition shapes up -- because all the street cars go
one after the other right away, I didn't get a chance to see how any
of the other street cars did this time around.
Anyway, for reference purposes, this is my car (so far):
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (optional eq: Targa top & CD player)
HKS Variable Boost Control
HKS 75 mm exhaust system
K&N air filter
Turbonetics-modified CT26 turbocharger (Super "S" compressor wheel,
clipped exhaust wheel)
Aaron Buhr
abuhr@eng.ufl.edu
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From: nimajneb!btptan@csar.csah.com (Benjamin T.P. Tan)
Subject: Cyclone: Snake Oil?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 1995 19:06:23 +0800 (SST)
CYCLONE:
Now sure if you guys got this thingamajig over there but it's making inroads
over here. What we have is a light copper / aluminium flat cylinder with
fins. Looks pretty much like a K&N filter for a regular downdraft carb. The
fins are angled. You take this US$70 (approx) thingamajig and sit it in the
center of your air filter (we're assuming a downdraft carb with the regular
paperfilter and housing. No K&N). Then you shut the lid. For an EFI car you
stick a similar thing (different proportions) in the air intake chute (hose,
tube, snort, whatever) AFTER the airfilter. Turbo/Super charged cars are a
no-go for this. They also haven't tried to sell it used inside a K&N.
What It Does (OR rather "Supposed to do"):
The sales line goes like this (sound familiar?):
-Increase Power
-Save petrol
Theory (As Advertised):
Normally the carb gets air into the engine in a smooth flow (*don't laugh*).
This is alright, but it isn't the optimum way to run your engine. (you guess
it) What you need is a Cyclone to spin the air and create a vortex at the
intake. The placing a Cyclone in the path of the intake stream causes the
air to spin as it goes down the intake (note: the cyclone is stationary) and
this provides for a better mix of fuel/air. Thus producing a more powerful
engine that uses less fuel (eureka!).
Cyclone and Friends:
Since not so long ago there was only the Cyclone. Now there are plenty of
devices that are virtually the same but go under names like Sakura and
Pro-Tornado. They all sell for something around S$100 to S$135 (approx US$70
to US$90).
What's The Verdict?:
I tried the Cyclone (No Risk, $ back deal). I did find a better top end but
certainly no petrol savings. Upon testing (with Colortune, the see thru
glass plug) I found I was getting a richer mixture. Now it adds up, I think.
The thingamajig acts like a mild choke, thus giving you a richer mixture and
therefore (slightly) better top end. Coupled with the psychological assult
of their ads, you might be inclined to think that the thing actually works.
Well, that's my interpretation and opinion.
Anyone think that there might actually be something about this thingamajig
that is worth anything?
bentan
TA40/2T-B
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From: Lufeng Leng
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 95 11:29:58 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: K&N
I saw a lot of members prefered to K&N air filter. What's the
advantage?
Thanks
lleng
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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 95 13:02:41 EST
From: chris@meaddata.com (Chris Schrimsher)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: More me/mine/mods, Part 2
> From: "Aaron Buhr"
> Subject: Re: More me/mine/mods, Part 2
> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods ML)
> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 08:37:53 -0500 (EST)
> Cc: chris@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> >
> > I'm looking into adding a turbo package but few aftermarket parts exist as of
> > yet. Has anyone on the list added a turbo to a normally aspirated engine for
> > street use? Is there a good resource (book?) to describe how this is done?
> > Should it be done?
>
> Hey, I remember in one of the Turbo magazine articles (I really do
> recommend anyone interested in modifying turbocharged vehicles get
> this magazine) someone had added a CT26 (87-92 Supra Turbo)
> turbocharger to a six-cylinder Lexus SC300, which apparently uses the
> same engine as the non-turbo 94+ Supra. That article in fact is what
> led me to the research on getting my CT26 upgraded, because the
> shop in that article offered both stock CT26 and modified CT26
> units. In any case I bet that you could get a duplicate of that
> set-up.
>
> Hm... as a matter of fact, I have that magazine here at work because
> I was using it as a reference for my turbo repair... It's the July '94
> issue of Turbo magazine. The work was done by:
>
> Toyomoto
> 12216 S.W. 128th St., Dept. THP
> Miami, FL 33186
> (305) 378-9325
>
> I'd get the magazine or call Toyomoto for details.
>
Thanks Aaron. I have the Turbo magazine from a month or two back and ran across
Toyomoto already. They sent me some turbo kit info that's in the $10K range.
I also have some info from Mechtech and a place in New York city (Performance
something or other). I am starting to find that turbocharging my Supra may not
be the best route. I could buy a factory turbo Supra from the dealer for
probably less than the cost of the kit.
Anyway, I'll still try and find the July issue of Turbo mag (somehow I don't
think I'll find it at my local library :).
BTW, if I were to add a turbo, how would I lower my compression ration to keep
from killing my engine?????????
Thanks
Chris
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From: "Aaron Buhr"
Subject: Re: More me/mine/mods, Part 2
To: chris@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris Schrimsher)
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 13:27:29 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods ML)
> BTW, if I were to add a turbo, how would I lower my compression ration to keep
> from killing my engine?????????
Thicker head gasket. I was sort of surprised when I first heard
about it, but it's not uncommon to be able to go from a 10:1-11:1
compression ratio down to 8.0:1-8.5:1 compression ratio just with a
head gasket change. In any case, about the expense of turbocharging:
you have to remember that new turbochargers cost in the $2000 range by
themselves, not including any associated hardware like intercooler
($750-$1000), boost control unit ($100-$800), head gasket ($100),
custom plumbing ($100-$500), plus labor ($500-$2000). I would say
a reasonable cost for a turbocharger addition with intercooler would
be in the $5000 range. Any less and they'd probably have to cut corners
somewhere.
Aaron B.
abuhr@eng.ufl.edu
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From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 95 08:52:38 HST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Turbo on Stock Motor
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Feb 8 08:31:34 1995
From: "Aaron Buhr"
Subject: Re: More me/mine/mods, Part 2
To: chris@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris Schrimsher)
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 13:27:29 -0500 (EST)
>> BTW, if I were to add a turbo, how would I lower my compression ration to keep>> from killing my engine?????????
> Thicker head gasket. I was sort of surprised when I first heard
>about it, but it's not uncommon to be able to go from a 10:1-11:1
>compression ratio down to 8.0:1-8.5:1 compression ratio just with a
>head gasket change. In any case, about the expense of turbocharging:
>you have to remember that new turbochargers cost in the $2000 range by
>themselves, not including any associated hardware like intercooler
>($750-$1000), boost control unit ($100-$800), head gasket ($100),
>custom plumbing ($100-$500), plus labor ($500-$2000). I would say
>a reasonable cost for a turbocharger addition with intercooler would
>be in the $5000 range. Any less and they'd probably have to cut corners
>somewhere.
Also there is a chart somewhere where it shows the amount of compression
from a stock motor that you can add a turbo to.
even a 12 to 1 compression motor can have a turbo on it jus VERY low psi
boost...
check the hot rod magazine or a turbo magazine for the chart...i know it
was in there somewhere...of course...don't listen to me =)
>Aaron B.
>abuhr@eng.ufl.edu
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
-Sickly in Bed
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From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 10:56:06 -0800
To: Lufeng Leng ,
Subject: Re: K&N
On Feb 8, 11:29am, Lufeng Leng wrote:
> Subject: K&N
>
> I saw a lot of members prefered to K&N air filter. What's the
> advantage?
A distinctive increase in airflow efficiency over factory air
filter systems. There was alot of chatter regarding the effectiveness
of the filter in high dirt environments but I believe that with regular
maintainence it is an effective system. But then again I'm somewhat
biased because I'm a firm believer/user of K&N filters myself.
As someone posted earlier... think of an engine as a large
air pump. The quicker you move air in and out of it the more efficient
it gets. From there you find all the little tricks of the trade being
applied.
Welcome to Toy_mods... There are several members with Celica's
in this group that are very knowledgable. And alot of other guys who
are very thorough with R-series (18R, 20R, 22R) powerplants as well.
So feel free to ask away.
Latas,
Allan
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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 14:11:35 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: K&N
We just had an excellent discussion on K&N, although I didn't save a
copy. Can somebody mail him a copy?
Also, you'll find some general K&N info at http://www.cyberauto.com.
Sorry I don't have the exact address on the top of my head, but look
under the catalog portion. I tried to put in a lot of info from the
catalog.
Chris
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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 95 14:30:52 EST
From: chris@meaddata.com (Chris Schrimsher)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Turbo on Stock Motor
> Also there is a chart somewhere where it shows the amount of compression
> from a stock motor that you can add a turbo to.
>
> even a 12 to 1 compression motor can have a turbo on it jus VERY low psi
> boost...
>
> check the hot rod magazine or a turbo magazine for the chart...i know it
> was in there somewhere...of course...don't listen to me =)
>
> -Allen T "Koji" Kam
> -Sickly in Bed
>
>
Allen,
Are you talking about Turbo magazine or another? The charts are not in
every month are they? If not, was it last summer, fall, winter? Hmmmmm
Thanks for the help!
Chris
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From: "Aaron Buhr"
Subject: Re: Turbo on Stock Motor
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods ML)
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 14:39:16 -0500 (EST)
> > Also there is a chart somewhere where it shows the amount of compression
> > from a stock motor that you can add a turbo to.
> Allen,
> Are you talking about Turbo magazine or another? The charts are not in
> every month are they? If not, was it last summer, fall, winter? Hmmmmm
I saw such a chart in either Turbo magazine or the Turbo Club
newsletter (which I think is ok, but bordering on not worth the extra
expense). However it said that running something like 12 psi on a
8.5:1 compression engine on 92-octane gas is dangerous! That seems
overly cautious to me, with all the stories in Turbo magazine of folks
using 15 psi on 8.5:1 compression engines regularly. I'll type the
whole chart in once I figure out where I saw it...
Aaron B.
abuhr@eng.ufl.edu
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From: Gary Hong
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: More me/mine/mods, Part 2
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 95 12:05:27 PST
>>>>>>Lufeng Leng<<<<<
>Name: Lufeng Leng
>Loc: Priceton,NJ
>
>Model: 84 celica (dont know ST or GT). 22RE engine, 5 speed.
>
>I havent done mods so far. But I do have done lots of fix stuff. Car
>didnt run when bought. Didnt start up. Fixed after change battery.
>Fan moter ran out of graphite brush. Changed brush...Now it runs
>great.
>
>I am considering add turbo or supercharge, if that does not sound
>rediculous to a Celica.
>
>email: lleng@phoenix.princeton.edu
Lufeng,
Let me know if you add a supsercharger or turbo to that 22RE engine. I would
be interested as well or (as you all know) putting a 6 cylinder engine in it.
A 350 probably won't fit.
Gary
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From: Gary Hong
To: abuhr@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: More me/mine/mods, Part 2
Cc: chris@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 95 12:15:12 PST
From: "Aaron Buhr"
>
> Hey, I remember in one of the Turbo magazine articles (I really do
>recommend anyone interested in modifying turbocharged vehicles get
>this magazine) someone had added a CT26 (87-92 Supra Turbo)
>turbocharger to a six-cylinder Lexus SC300, which apparently uses the
>same engine as the non-turbo 94+ Supra. That article in fact is what
>led me to the research on getting my CT26 upgraded, because the
>shop in that article offered both stock CT26 and modified CT26
>units. In any case I bet that you could get a duplicate of that
>set-up.
>
> Hm... as a matter of fact, I have that magazine here at work because
>I was using it as a reference for my turbo repair... It's the July '94
>issue of Turbo magazine. The work was done by:
>
> Toyomoto
> 12216 S.W. 128th St., Dept. THP
> Miami, FL 33186
> (305) 378-9325
>
> I'd get the magazine or call Toyomoto for details.
>
>Aaron B.
Aaron,
Just called 'em. They don't sell Turbos for the 22R engines. Toyota did
put out a 22R engine in one of their trucks in the mid 80's. Does anyone
know of the specs for these motors and what turbo unit? Probably a whole
lot easier to put a turbo on the 22R than to put a big american engine in.
Gary
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From: StevenI994@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 1995 02:30:32 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR-2 Cams
Has anyone installed aftermarket cams in a na Mk1? I was thinking of
purchasing the Paeco cams.
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Date: Sun, 12 Feb 1995 18:58:11 +0600
From: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com (John Limcangco - CIS)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Twin Webers on an 18R-C
I have an opportunity to buy two Weber side draught carbs and the intake
manifold for an 18R-C.
The carbs are used. Are there any items I should look closely? Will the carbs
work in my stock engine? What jettings (?) do I need?
This would be my first 'real' performance mod and I really don't know much
about it except that it will make my car go faster.
I don't race or anything like that, I just want 'happier' street engine.
If I do install the carbs and tune it right, is it true that my fuel consumption
would not change if I don't change my driving style?
Thanks,
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 1995 22:11:08 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: John Limcangco's recent mail
Sorry I've been delinquent on responding to my mail. In response
to John's questions about his new (to him) carbs...
You'll want to rebuild them, but they should work fine if they
don't look abused or anything. Make sure your carbs match your
intake and your intake matches your head smoothly. Carefully
grind them to match if not. You really ought to consider adding
a header (extractor for you former British colonies) and a
cam. Remember that performance mods for the 18RC are fairly
uncommon and therefore more expensive. Your best bet is to
find an 18RG head and snap it on. You'll probably save the cost
of the head in performance parts price differences.
Now, everybody write this info down:
Rule of thumb for jet sizing (I finally found this info again.
It is from Turbo and Hi Tech, I think...)
Main = 4.4 x Choke size
Air Corrector = 5 x Choke size
Remember: This isn't exactly what you need. It is just a
starting place. Use your normal techniques to determine your
a/f mix, then adjust from there. Remember also in tuning from
there that a change in your main jet is 3 times as significant as
the change in the AC jet. IE, if you change main from 1.05 to
1.00, it's the same as changing your AC from 1.6 to 1.75.
Chris
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 1995 01:13:46 +0600
From: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com (John Limcangco - CIS)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Mikuni vs. Solex
As I've posted before, I'm looking into installing twin side-draft carbs for
my 18RC. Now, I've found someone who is selling his twin Mikuni Solex 40's (?).
He's selling it cheaper than most used Webers I've looked at. To make the deal
sweeter, he's throwing in an electric fuel pump.
I would assume that the carbs are fine since its installed in his car right
now... the car runs fine.
Should I get the Mikuni's? or should I wait until I find some good Webers?
BTW, would a Mikuni 40 or Weber 40 be enough for my engine? Should I go for
twin 44's (45's)? What's the difference - do the numbers stand for anything
significant?
Thanks,
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 1995 02:05:04 +0600
From: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com (John Limcangco - CIS)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Mikuni vs. Weber
... should be the subject on my last post... sorry for the confusion.
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 95 01:34:30 PST
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@MBnet.MB.CA (Fred Oberbuchner)
To: Lufeng Leng
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: computer
>Hi,there:
>Not be rude I introduce myself: 84 Celica owner, want to boost hp,too.
>But I really doubt that a computer replace will boost you up to 165.
>Tell me how come.
>Looking forward to your response.
>lleng
Well, at long last.... here is the info I have:
Stock AE92 Corolla with 4AGE = 112-115 BHP (depending on who says so!)
HKS exhaust
K&N cylindrical air filter (deleted airbox)
HKS cams
total = 135 BHP (according to HKS book I believe)
Going with a TECH-II involves deleting the following:
Distributor
stock coil and electronic advance unit
Airflow meter
Stock EFI computer
The TECH-II takes its spark signal directly off the crank and
uses separate coils (like motorocycles use) to fire the plugs
directly without a distributor. It also takes over the fuel
metering and every other control aspect of the engine.
Apparently, these mods will result in approx 25-35% BHP gains on an
otherwise stock engine.
This has been "substantiated" by local experiences.
being conservative and using 25% this yields
135 * 1.25 = 168 BHP
I personally don't believe the 35% so I'll stick with a max of 25%.
The other perf mods I have will only help the situation. The added
benefit of this is that you (generally) also get better gas mileage
than most other mods under cruise-control type operation.
This is also an EXCELLENT first step toward installing a NOS (Nitrous
Oxide) system as the controls are already there. Note: I will NEVER do
this - just like I will NEVER go TECH-II (haha).
Comments and arguments most certainly welcome!
fredo (aaaack... I HATE winter!!!)
fredo@mbnet.mb.ca
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 1995 21:34:26 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Mikuni's for 18R
40mm Webers will be more than enough for that engine, provided you
don't do some complete radical rebuild. Same for 40mm Mikunis. I'm
sure what they mean when they say solex carbs is just side drafts.
Solex is the name of the original side draft style carb.
Chris
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Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 21:05:21 -0600 (CST)
From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 3.0l V6 truck
I went into my local Toyota parts department today... Seeing to buy a few
speciality tools.. Anyway, to make a long story short I was informed that
many aftermarket cams have trouble after install due to required size of
valve shims... Anyone know anything about this? I was considering buying
a Crane cam (I have had good luck with them before) - but I was told to stay
away from ALL aftermarket cams... Anyone got any ideas??
-D.Ginther
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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 22:10:38 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Cams for 3.0l V6 truck
I did a little research, but I couldn't find _any_ cams specifically
for the 3.0l V6 in the Truck. Crane, Competition, Crower, and even
LC engineering don't list one. Furthermore, Performance Engineering
doesn't list one. I can't seem to put my hands on my Northwest
Offroad catalog, but they are the only one's I haven't checked.
Exactly what engine is in that truck? Is it the same engine as
in the Supra (or a former Supra engine?) If that is the
case I'm sure there are a few available, but they might not
be in the power band Darin is looking for.
Chris
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From: "Todd R. Haverstock"
Subject: Re: Cams for 3.0l V6 truck
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris Myer)
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 22:20:58 -0600 (CST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> I did a little research, but I couldn't find _any_ cams specifically
> for the 3.0l V6 in the Truck. Crane, Competition, Crower, and even
> Exactly what engine is in that truck? Is it the same engine as
> in the Supra (or a former Supra engine?) If that is the
Isn't the 3VZ-TE the engine used in the truck and 4Runner?
-Todd
20R!
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 9:00:12 -0600 (CST)
From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: truck cams
Off the top of my head, the motor is a 3vz-e.. Does that sound right? The
truck is still new to me. I was told that it is the same motor as the
supra.
Anyway - I was able to locate a couple of cams in a North West off-road
catalog. All of the cams available are low-end cams (yuck) - but this seems
to be the standard when it comes to 4x4's.
Another suggestion that was made to me would be to install the 3.4l 4-cam
motor (T-1000) - the motor mounts are the same and it bolts up to the
existing drivetrain. This option is a bit too extreme right now due to the
lack of availibility of a used motor... I refuse to convert to chevy, buick,
or ford motors...
What is the experience when installing cams in the supra?
-d.ginther
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To: Chris Myer
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cams for 3.0l V6 truck
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 95 11:05:44 -0800
From: danapple@vicor.com
> Chris Myer writes:
> I did a little research, but I couldn't find _any_ cams specifically
> for the 3.0l V6 in the Truck. Crane, Competition, Crower, and even
> LC engineering don't list one. Furthermore, Performance Engineering
> doesn't list one. I can't seem to put my hands on my Northwest
> Offroad catalog, but they are the only one's I haven't checked.
Downey would be another possible source. I'll try to remember to
check with them. I'm pretty sure Downey and/or NWOR has a cam
available.
> Exactly what engine is in that truck? Is it the same engine as
> in the Supra (or a former Supra engine?)
The 3.0l in the Truck is the 3VZE, which is a V6. The Supras are
inline-6's like the 5MGE or 7MGE.
> Chris
Dan.
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Date: Wed, 22 Feb 1995 03:13:06 +0600
From: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com (John Limcangco - CIS)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 5speed swap
My stock 4-speed transmission is giving me problems... I finally found an
excuse to get a 5-speed. :)
I'll be checking the salvage yards for a used 5 speed transmission, that I can
mate with an 18R engine, this weekend. Is there an easy way to see if a
candidate transmission would bolt on? Are there part numbers on the
casing? Obvious bolt patterns? Do I need to buy the bell housing too, linkages, transmission mounts, cross members?
Has anyone done this swap before? I'd really appreciate any tips.
Thanks,
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 95 14:26:45 HST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: WOB - Mustang Mailing List
Sorry for the WOB but...who was the dude who was like the
Source for the mustang mailing list and what was the address ?
thanks in advance...
oh btw...jus FYI..the Ford Brake Fluid is the BEST in the world or such..
check out whats in it... =) I use it..so should you =)
-Koji
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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 1995 20:32:28 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Getting up to date...
Sorry I haven't written anything lately other than terse responses to
the occasional posting on TM. I've been up to a lot, and this will
probably be quite a long post as I get caught up. I'll try to stay
on something close to toyota mods (I'll post other stuff to tm-wob!)
Well, thanks to John Lee in SF, I finally have an 18RGU head of my
very own! What a piece of art! Man, this thing looks fast just
sitting on my workbench! In order to set the record straight...there
ain't NO WAY you'll ever put an 18RG head on a 2xR block. Not only
are the water ports different (I may have been tempted to make my
own water ports if this had been the problem) but the timing chain
hole is about 3-4 inches off to one side on the 18R, as opposed to
the 2xR. On the 2xR, the timing chain drops through a hole right
in-line with the pistons. I didn't even bother to see if the head
bolts lined up--its just time to find an 18R block.
The 18R head, for those who haven't been paying attention, is a
dual overhead cam setup with 2 valves per piston. It is basically
a hemi-head setup, with the spark plug almost at the top of the
dome. The valves are bigger (I measured it but I forget the exact
difference--something like 4 mm wider on the intake and 2mm wider
on the exhaust.) While that may not seem like much, remember that
the difference isn't linear. The difference in cross-sectional
surface area is pi*(new_radius^2 - old_radius^2). (Right??) I'll
go home and take some better readings and do the math. (BTW, by
old radius I mean the radius of the 20R valves. Confusing you yet?)
Keep in mind that TRD has BIG valves for the 18RG too! Man, that
dude oughta _really_ breath with those in there! Another interesting
note is that there is no valve train like in the 2xR--the cam pushes
directly on the valve. Nice and efficient, eh?
OK, changing subjects now, I won free tickets to the Florida Dash and
IROC at Daytona last Friday. The Dash series is NASCAR's 4 cylinder
class--2 litre _stock_ cars averaging 163 mph on the Daytona super-
speedway! These dudes are so geared up that it takes all the have
just to start rolling! Interesting race...especially when the 2nd
place car trys to take first, break something, and they both slam into
the wall at 160! Slid about .5 to .75 miles before they come to a
stop right in front of me in the tower. THEN another car slams into
one of the now-halted car. Miraculously, everyone walks away.
Now, I want to tell you about the best racing I have ever seen--IROC!
12 competitors in 12 identically prepared Dodge Avengers. These cars
are prepared by Dodge technicians who actually stage the cars without
names on them. The competitors walk up on a stage and pick their
starting position. The technicians scurry about as the numbers are
drawn placing names on the cars and installing the driver's personal
seats. The drivers climb in and the race starts.
How equal are these cars? Basically, with only 1 exception, the cars
ran the entire race (100 miles) with No SPACE between them! The
exception? Steve Millen, who started in the back of the pack. Steve
made the mistake of letting the pack get ahead of him and lost the
draft. The cars are so evenly matched that because of this, he fell
further and further behind, finishing the race about a mile behind
the tightly formed pack. The cars were so identical that when somebody
tried to pass for the lead (I think _everyone_ did this a time or two)
if they didn't get squarely in front of the former leader at the
end of the pass and take advantage of the push-draft, they fell back to
the _back_ of the pack! These guys were going from second, to first
by a nose, to seventh and eighth as they lost the draft. I've never
seen a race with such crowd dynamics!
Gotta run--WalMart closes in 15 minutes and my pictures are waiting!
Chris
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Date: Wed, 22 Feb 1995 18:34:56 +0600
From: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com (John Limcangco - CIS)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Getting up to date...
----- Begin Included Message -----
From cmyer@CyberAuto.Com Wed Feb 22 07:04:33 1995
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 1995 07:51:32 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com
Subject: Re: Getting up to date...
> Thanks for posting a write-up on the 18R-G head. It couldn't come more
> timelier than this. I am in the process of buying an 18R-G engine complete
> with carbs, manifold, headers, bellhousing, alternator, etc. The buyer and I
> have just agreed on the price (US $200.00 approx.) and I will pay him and
> pick it up on Saturday.
>
> I plan to have the engine overhauled before I swap it in my Cressida. Do you
> have an idea how much performance increase I can expect with this new engine
> over the stock 18R-C?
Turning 175-200 hp out of an 18RG is no really big deal. Considering
that you now have less than 100 hp, I'd say you'll see considerable
increase in performance!
> What other 'speed' tricks should I consider while I have the engine apart?
> (Polish the ports, shave the head.....) My goal with this engine is to get
> a reliable street engine that has more than enough power to pull the Cressida's
> heavy body around. Should I just rebuild the engine to 'stock' 18R-G specs?
> The engine will come with two 38mm Mikuni's.
Why don't you just ask for the group to write a book? (Just kidding!)
Seriously, break this question down into smaller pieces--that way
it is more likely that people will get involved in answering (besides
blabber-mouth me, that is!) Ask for tips on the head, then tips on
carburetion, then tips on the bottom end, etc.
If you want to talk about head preparation, I'll point out that I
don't recommend shaving the head to gain compression. This just leads
to problems with the chain tension. That is why J&E, Wiseco, etc are
in business--to provide you with strong, light, high-compression
pistons. Do a cleanup surfacing on the head and that ought to be
enough.
(OK you 18RG guru's, jump in here!)
> On a different note, my car's 4-speed transmission is almost done for, should
> I invest in a 5-speed or should I just rebuild the 4-speed? What would you do?
W50 had always been the company answer here.
> BTW, what does the U stand for in 18R-GU?
You, as in "I have an 18RG and YOU don't!"
Chris
----- End Included Message -----
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Date: Wed, 22 Feb 1995 07:39:10 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Picture Taking Hints
After reviewing my race-day pictures, I thought I'd share a couple of
hints.
1.) Don't try to catch Winston Cup cars at 200 mph from 30 feet
away. I tried panning with them, but I guess I don't pan fast enough,
because I had a bunch of lovely pictures of empty pavement!
2.) Take your pictures in the pits. A still of a car going 200
mph is no more exciting than that of one sitting still. Actually, the
best picture I have is of an IROC car that was on display, You can take
your time, frame everything up the way you want it, and get a nice
crisp colorful picture.
3.) You can never have enough film. Even if you do have enough
film, somebody else won't. A buddy of mine is in the pits watching
Dale Earnhardt when this lady realizes she's out of film. He offers
her a roll of his film. (My buddy, not Dale Earnhardt!)
She hands him a $10 and says "is this ok?"
You bet. 400% profit. I like it.
Chris
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From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 1995 09:45:55 -0800
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: WOB - Mustang Mailing List
On Feb 21, 2:26pm, koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu wrote:
> Subject: WOB - Mustang Mailing List
>
> Sorry for the WOB but...who was the dude who was like the
> Source for the mustang mailing list and what was the address ?
Do I smell a V-8 in the brewing :^).
> thanks in advance...
>
> oh btw...jus FYI..the Ford Brake Fluid is the BEST in the world or such..
> check out whats in it... =) I use it..so should you =)
Ahhh... an Koji-production Infommercial *hahahaha*. PLUG! PLUG! PLUG!
Latas,
Allan
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From: "Scott, Dan"
To: ToyMods
Subject: RE: Getting up to date
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 95 07:41:00 PST
> What other 'speed' tricks should I consider while I have the engine apart?
> (Polish the ports, shave the head.....) My goal with this engine is to
get
> a reliable street engine that has more than enough power to pull the
Cressida's
> heavy body around. Should I just rebuild the engine to 'stock' 18R-G
specs?
> The engine will come with two 38mm Mikuni's.
Good places to look for general information on tricking out your engine are
magazines and books. I would recommend the last 3 or 4 issues of Turbo &
Hi-Tech Performance. They have been covering things like engine
thermodynamics, combustion, clutches, cams, rings, heads etc. Another good
book is Motorbooks Toyota Performance modifications. These publications will
give you enough information to start making decisions on what you want to do
with your engine. Good luck with the rebuild and have fun.
Dan. Scott
'88 Celica Alltrac
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From: law40034@leonis.nus.sg
Subject: Re: What's a 4A-FE...
To: k124476@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kalalahti Matti)
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 00:58:13 +0800 (SST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> here's the info I have on my
>
> engine database
Come to think of it I should have just looked there and saved trying
to swipe the manual. I'm still looking for the service manual for the
TA40/2T, though. Anyone know where the adjustment for the free play on
the steering is?
>
> about this engine:
>
> 4A-FE DOHC ? 87-90 1587 100@5600 101@4400 3.19 3.03 9.5:1
What was the "?" ?
> This is maybe one of the most common Toyota engines in Finland, found in
> many Corollas and low-end Carinas (Coronas to some of you).
They got rid of the name "Carina" in Singapore 'cause it sounds vulgar
in the Chinese dialect of hokkien. ;-) Talk about cross cultural
marketing problems..
> > '80 TA40/2TB that outruns a '94 Corona with a 4A-FE.. tested and proven ;-)
>
> Well, a '92 Carina 4A-FE has 105hp@6000rpm, and does 0-100km/h in
> 11.9 seconds, top speed for this one is 185km/h.
>
> You may have a chance (at least up to ~120km/h or so ;)
Maybe it wasn't really a fair fight ;-)
We had a stock (not even rims) Corona (Carina) Auto going on a short
deserted strip of road about 300m then a moderate turn and another
short straight. The Bright Purple Celica won hands down... ;-)
Any idea what the "F" in 4A-FE is supposed to denote?
I thought "G" was DOHC.
bentan
Bright Purple Monster (TA40/2T-B)
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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 1995 11:01:00 -0600
From: "Scott, Dan"
To: Toyota , ToyMods
Subject: FW: neon vs crx
I thought you all might enjoy this..........
pulled from the autox-mailing list:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
On Wed, 22 Feb 1995, Philip J Ethier wrote:
...stuff deleted...
> My car is nearly stock, but still, I ought to beat these sedans handily.
> It's the driver, folks. Todd was fourth E-stock at Nationals and you
> don't do that in any car without a good combination of natural talent and
> dedication to the sport.
I've just GOT to comment on this one. At our last monthly event, our RE
(regional exec) who NEVER drives in the events, but always beautifully
coordinates everything, decided to have a couple of runs in a shop loaner.
He's an older guy, with a gentle but demanding way, thick glasses, and an
out-of-control scraggly gray beard.
The car? A '90 Toyota Corolla 4 door, no less.
Everyone was watching and whispering predictions as he motored slowly
around the course, his first run. Some of the first-timers snickered.
His time? 18 seconds off my worst run. (84.202)
Then he went for his second (and last) run. His time?
12 seconds _faster_ than my best run in the Alfa.
The brakes were POURING smoke from the wheel wells. The tires were way too
hot to touch. The first-timers gulped and blinked, the old-timers smiled
and shook their heads. He blew away 911's, Stealth's, Vette's, Miata's,
CRX's, and a Pantera. As he stepped out of the poor Toyota, he smiled
and said, "Good run, I think I took about 30 thousnd miles off this baby!"
He could have said, "So let that be a lesson to all you young upstarts!"
I decided then and there to stop fooling with my car and learn how to drive.
Lorenzo.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Lorenzo Gonzalez | '86 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce (DSP) |
| | '77.5 Porsche 924 (dead) |
| ring@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu | "Italian cars - more mysterious than women!" |
| | -Lorenzo a.k.a. "Ring"- |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: What's a 4A-FE...
To: law40034@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 00:40:36 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Anyone know where the adjustment for the free play on
> the steering is?
Not out of my head, but I can find the information in a day or two.
I have no experience with other than rack&pinion steerings...
> > 4A-FE DOHC ? 87-90 1587 100@5600 101@4400 3.19 3.03 9.5:1
>
> What was the "?" ?
valves per cylinder. I think it's 4, but some old info said that 4A-F
(carb, no EFI), had only 2, so I decided not to guess...
> They got rid of the name "Carina" in Singapore 'cause it sounds vulgar
> in the Chinese dialect of hokkien. ;-) Talk about cross cultural
> marketing problems..
Hey! I want to know exactly what it means! ;)
> > > '80 TA40/2TB that outruns a '94 Corona with a 4A-FE.. tested and proven ;-)
> >
> > Well, a '92 Carina 4A-FE has 105hp@6000rpm, and does 0-100km/h in
> > 11.9 seconds, top speed for this one is 185km/h.
> >
> > You may have a chance (at least up to ~120km/h or so ;)
>
> Maybe it wasn't really a fair fight ;-)
> We had a stock (not even rims) Corona (Carina) Auto going on a short
Automatic transmission? That adds maybe 3 seconds to the 0-100 times,
you DO win hands down. Never buy a Toyota with auto trans, if
don't want to be humiliated by 1.3 liter Nissans blowing you
away at stoplights ;)
> deserted strip of road about 300m then a moderate turn and another
> short straight. The Bright Purple Celica won hands down... ;-)
>
> Any idea what the "F" in 4A-FE is supposed to denote?
> I thought "G" was DOHC.
G does men the traditional high-performance orientated DOHC,
F means "economical twin cam". That is, the angle between the valves
is much smaller, and the second cam is driven by the other cam
by gears - less power, but better fuel economy.
> Bright Purple Monster (TA40/2T-B)
Shall we name it "Barney"? ;)
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Getting up to date...
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris Myer)
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 01:06:26 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Sorry I haven't written anything lately other than terse responses to
> the occasional posting on TM. I've been up to a lot, and this will
> probably be quite a long post as I get caught up. I'll try to stay
> on something close to toyota mods (I'll post other stuff to tm-wob!)
I could say the same, but now I have more time at my hands...
> Well, thanks to John Lee in SF, I finally have an 18RGU head of my
> very own! What a piece of art! Man, this thing looks fast just
> sitting on my workbench! In order to set the record straight...there
> ain't NO WAY you'll ever put an 18RG head on a 2xR block. Not only
> are the water ports different (I may have been tempted to make my
> own water ports if this had been the problem) but the timing chain
> hole is about 3-4 inches off to one side on the 18R, as opposed to
> the 2xR. On the 2xR, the timing chain drops through a hole right
> in-line with the pistons. I didn't even bother to see if the head
> bolts lined up--its just time to find an 18R block.
I'm surprised that it didn't fit, as I've seen 2.4 liter twin cams
for sale, and thought that the easiest way to build one would be
using a 22R block... oh well. Does the 18R block have enough
material to be bored to 2.4?
> The valves are bigger (I measured it but I forget the exact
> difference--something like 4 mm wider on the intake and 2mm wider
> on the exhaust.) While that may not seem like much, remember that
> the difference isn't linear. The difference in cross-sectional
> surface area is pi*(new_radius^2 - old_radius^2). (Right??)
right.
> Keep in mind that TRD has BIG valves for the 18RG too! Man, that
> dude oughta _really_ breath with those in there!
How big is BIG? I measured my valves while the whole engine was apart,
and the intake ones were ~52mm, and exhaust ~42mm.
> Another interesting
> note is that there is no valve train like in the 2xR--the cam pushes
> directly on the valve. Nice and efficient, eh?
You mean there are engines that don't work like that? ;)
> OK, changing subjects now, I won free tickets to the Florida Dash and
> IROC at Daytona last Friday. The Dash series is NASCAR's 4 cylinder
> class--2 litre _stock_ cars averaging 163 mph on the Daytona super-
> speedway! These dudes are so geared up that it takes all the have
> just to start rolling! Interesting race...especially when the 2nd
> place car trys to take first, break something, and they both slam into
> the wall at 160! Slid about .5 to .75 miles before they come to a
> stop right in front of me in the tower. THEN another car slams into
> one of the now-halted car. Miraculously, everyone walks away.
hmm... sounds like my everyday driving ;)
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-25hp on 2th to 5th
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://www.cs.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: What's a 4A-FE...
To: law40034@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 09:25:41 +1000 (EST)
Cc: k124476@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> Any idea what the "F" in 4A-FE is supposed to denote?
> I thought "G" was DOHC.
>
F is narrow angle, G is wider angle. Both are twincams.
I seem to recall that the F head had an agle of 20+ degrees and the G had 40+
degrees. could be very wrong though.
TEd
--
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SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: What's a 4A-FE...
To: looit@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 02:26:08 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> > Any idea what the "F" in 4A-FE is supposed to denote?
> > I thought "G" was DOHC.
> >
> F is narrow angle, G is wider angle. Both are twincams.
> I seem to recall that the F head had an agle of 20+ degrees and the G had 40+
> degrees. could be very wrong though.
No, you're around there... F's are all about 20 degrees, but G's vary
a lot... my 3T-GTEU has about 80-85 degrees ;), all others are somewhere
between 40 to 80, I'd say. Included angle. That's what it's called, right?
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: What's a 4A-FE...
To: k124476@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kalalahti Matti)
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 11:05:48 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> No, you're around there... F's are all about 20 degrees, but G's vary
> a lot... my 3T-GTEU has about 80-85 degrees ;), all others are somewhere
> between 40 to 80, I'd say. Included angle. That's what it's called, right?
>
wow 80 degrees, I find that hard to picture thats all.
I know that mine (4AGE AE82) is about 43 degrees.
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 07:51:43 -0500
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Uhhh, stupid question maybe...
...But what exactly is meant when you say angle. I know that on a V-type
engine you refer to the angle of the V, and also I know that you can
mill the head on a V engine a bit so that it sits at an angle on the
block, but obviously, at 80 degrees (and since it's not a V engine)
that's not what we're talking about.
Help?
Chris
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From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 95 04:01:28 HST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Uhhhh....Stupid Question...Maybe...
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 07:51:43 -0500
From: Chris Myer
Subject: Uhhh, stupid question maybe...
>...But what exactly is meant when you say angle.
Ummm....check Mister Webster =)
>I know that on a V-type engine you refer to the angle of the V,
>and also I know that you can mill the head on a V engine a bit so
>that it sits at an angle on the block, but obviously, at 80 degrees
>(and since it's not a V engine) that's not what we're talking about.
Basically to me it means what 0 to 180 degrees means to the bottom half
of the motor. It proably has inference also to front wheel drive cars
so the 'angle' of the hoodline is low enuff. Also you need to tilt the
motor enuff or else you run into Major oiling problems thus you
need to 'angle' the motor =) Thus you need to angle the motor enouf so
the motor faces the windshield and still has clearance for the hood and
to compensate for the motor.
Or 'Angle' could mean the 80 degress bore from the center line...
>Help?
I think you DO need help with the Maiiling List Still huh =)
>Chris
Umm...don't mind my babble..its been a while since >I< posted and
This iss really off the top of my head and i'm not functioning well yet...
-Koji
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Uhhh, stupid question maybe...
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris Myer)
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 20:03:50 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> ...But what exactly is meant when you say angle. I know that on a V-type
> engine you refer to the angle of the V, and also I know that you can
> mill the head on a V engine a bit so that it sits at an angle on the
> block, but obviously, at 80 degrees (and since it's not a V engine)
> that's not what we're talking about.
crappy ascii picture follows, beware:
intake exhaust
valve valve
\ /
\ /
/ \
We're talking about the angle between intake and exhaust valves.
If its not clear yet, imagine straight lines through both valves
(starting from the tappet end of the valve and through the
center of the valve plates in the combustion chamber). Now in
most engines, these lines will cross somewhere... The angle between
these lines is what I'm trying to explain ;)
In 3T-GTEU, the intake valves are tilted less from vertical (~35
degrees) than the exhaust valves (~45-50 degrees).
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@cs.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-25hp
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://www.cs.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 19:30:08 HST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: FV: Neon vs CRX
From: "Scott, Dan"
To: Toyota ,
ToyMods
Subject: FW: neon vs crx
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 95 09:01:00 PST
>I thought you all might enjoy this..........
>pulled from the autox-mailing list:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>On Wed, 22 Feb 1995, Philip J Ethier wrote:
>>...stuff deleted...
>> My car is nearly stock, but still, I ought to beat these sedans handily.
>> It's the driver, folks. Todd was fourth E-stock at Nationals and you
>> don't do that in any car without a good combination of natural talent and
>> dedication to the sport.
>I've just GOT to comment on this one. At our last monthly event, our RE
>(regional exec) who NEVER drives in the events, but always beautifully
>coordinates everything, decided to have a couple of runs in a shop loaner.
>He's an older guy, with a gentle but demanding way, thick glasses, and an
>out-of-control scraggly gray beard.
Dudes name is MG Lewis... I dunno if its the same dude cause...
The events are NEVER "Beautifully coordinate"d or such... The last race
(before this one) Was my FIRST race back with a NEW car with "worse then
stock" tires...I was out there for fun... and I wasn't gonna race...
so I went there after i picked up my friend and went to mickey d's to get
some lunch and stuff...crusied in about 12ish and they didn't even start
the FIRST HEAT !!! So i decieded to race... ha ha
>The car? A '90 Toyota Corolla 4 door, no less.
Sounds like the previous months prior event... the one i mentioned..cause
Pat's blue turbo MA71 broke down with some ignitier problems and so
he got a demo off the lot 94 Tercel (the car i WAS gonna buy) and raced
that instead... (I'll post the results later)
>Everyone was watching and whispering predictions as he motored slowly
>around the course, his first run. Some of the first-timers snickered.
>His time? 18 seconds off my worst run. (84.202)
BFD he's a good driver and all...
>Then he went for his second (and last) run. His time?
Hmmm......
>12 seconds _faster_ than my best run in the Alfa.
Maybe the guy's Alfa sucks =)
>The brakes were POURING smoke from the wheel wells. The tires were way too
>hot to touch. The first-timers gulped and blinked, the old-timers smiled
>and shook their heads. He blew away 911's, Stealth's, Vette's, Miata's,
>CRX's, and a Pantera. As he stepped out of the poor Toyota, he smiled
>and said, "Good run, I think I took about 30 thousnd miles off this baby!"
>He could have said, "So let that be a lesson to all you young upstarts!"
He did.. =)
BTW he ran in a stock class... =)
>I decided then and there to stop fooling with my car and learn how to drive.
Umm... Go figure =)
>Lorenzo.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Lorenzo Gonzalez | '86 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce (DSP) |
| | '77.5 Porsche 924 (dead) |
| ring@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu | "Italian cars - more mysterious than women!" |
| | -Lorenzo a.k.a. "Ring"- |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ha ha ha ha I'll start my commented from here..lets do a little background
on this Lorenzo Dude...
This Lorenzo dude claims from his sig that he runs in DSP...HOWEVER i have him
and his "Alfa Romeo 2000 Spider Veloce" running in C Stock.
C Stock is basically run by this lady Amy Lee who drives a Nissan 240Z and
usually wins.
I watched this dude drive... and oh...he needs some work on his car also..
Its not in the greatest of conditions =)
Oh welps..who am I to criticize..he beat me in Jan by 8th's of a second
oh welps... at least >I< spun out EVERY run and did donuts around the trianles !
Yes...It was fun =)
-Koji
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