Toyota-Mods Postings Mar 1995

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Mar 1995 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 1 Mar 95 13:03:23 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: supras@vicor.com Subject: turbo timers and oilers Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Toyota owners, Enough already about car hi-fi. I've seen some of you indicate that you have the (HKS) turbo timer accessory on your turbo cars... To you I ask, how do you like it? I considered getting one of those, but I didn't like the idea of leaving a manual trans car parked in neutral with the engine running. So... I went with a different solution, a turbo and engine pre/post oiler. You get the benefits of preventing turbo heat soak-back problems on shut-down (with no more idling!), AND you get the advantages of prelube oil pressure (5 PSI!) on startup (beats PTFE/Slick-50). If anyone's interested, I can write up my experiences with this device. P.S. Don't expect too much info right away... I do need to work around here, and I'm still catching up from the subwoofer articles. Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS TEMS, leather, 158K miles! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 13:52:00 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, tm-wob@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Just testing... Sorry about this post guys. It's just been so quiet lately I was wondering if there were problems with my new email address or it just people are still hibernating over the winter. If anyone received this... please let me know I exist in toy_mods or wob. Allan Chen Silicon Graphics Inc. Mountain View, CA allanc@sgi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Subject: Killing CATs To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (mods) Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 09:49:56 +0800 (SST) Just from out that emissions regulations only apply to car '91 and newer. Got a '88 with a cat converter choking up the exhaust. Could someone who has Killed a CAT before tell me what to expect. Upside, Downside. Should I replace the CAT with an expansion chamber of sorts or just pipe the smog to straight to the back muffler? ben xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au Subject: Re: Killing CATs To: btptan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, nimajneb!btptan@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 12:47:53 +1000 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Just from out that emissions regulations only apply to car '91 and newer. Lucky people, in OZ it is 86 and 82 I think. > Got a '88 with a cat converter choking up the exhaust. Could someone who has > Killed a CAT before tell me what to expect. Upside, Downside. Should I Lotsa blood and fur flying. Really, the exhaust note gets a lot louder from what I have experienced. > replace the CAT with an expansion chamber of sorts or just pipe the smog to > straight to the back muffler? > I would get an expansion chamber or else you may find the resonance too annoying. ELSE, get a broom handle, get the CatConv. and bask the inners out of it. Thats what is done on the racing cars here after CAMS has been through scrutineering. The penalty in Qld, OZ for removing a CatConv from a smog car is $1000 to the owner, $10000 to the shop which did it. TEd -- ############################################################################# SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au SSSS XX ---- TT C S S X X TT C SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ... # Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! # ^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 02 Mar 95 04:17:45 EST From: "Kevin W. Smith" <76334.3232@compuserve.com> To: Subject: Killing CATs If your car has a closed-loop system, just get a new or reconditioned cat. Late model Toyotas have low-restriction units, removing them from an otherwise stock vehicle usually does more harm than good. The impact on performance is minimal to none, but they're great at preventing that throttle off popping sound that does nothing for performance. They also reduce noise a little bit, which lets you use a lower restriction cat-back exhaust system without waking up the neighbors. And additional benefit is that your exhaust system might stay cleaner, without the crud that would otherwise blow past the cat. The pollution thing is up to you, but at least ask yourself if removing a very good anti-smog thing is worth an increase in performance that you probably won't even feel. Kevin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Subject: Re: Killing CATs To: looit@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 21:20:28 +0800 (SST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (mods) > > Just from out that emissions regulations only apply to car '91 and newer. > Lucky people, in OZ it is 86 and 82 I think. That's the price one pays for progressing too fast ;-) > > Got a '88 with a cat converter choking up the exhaust. Could someone who has > > Killed a CAT before tell me what to expect. Upside, Downside. Should I > Lotsa blood and fur flying. Did I tell you guys about the one where a friend with a Hyundai Excel heard mewing from under the hood after driving a couple of miles.. We had one scared kitty in there. Lucky it didn't hit the belts ;-( > Really, the exhaust note gets a lot louder from what I have experienced. > > > replace the CAT with an expansion chamber of sorts or just pipe the smog to > > straight to the back muffler? > > > I would get an expansion chamber or else you may find the resonance too > annoying. Guess this is the way it's gonna have to be. > ELSE, get a broom handle, get the CatConv. and bask the inners > out of it. Thats what is done on the racing cars here after CAMS has been > through scrutineering. Interesting. But like I said. We can get away with up to 4.5% CO. > The penalty in Qld, OZ for removing a CatConv from a smog car is $1000 to the > owner, $10000 to the shop which did it. Wow. I dunno what the penalty is here. Wonder if they cane folks for this... ben xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" Subject: Re: Just testing... To: allanc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Allan Chen) Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 21:32:56 +0800 (SST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (mods) > Ahhh, honorable Ben... You have been reading much more than Law Books > lately... more like Confucious or Lao Tse *heheheheh*. Yup. Consifused already. The Law books are also killing me. The darn old british judges just love double and multiple negatives. Have to map into boolean to get it right. One Lord Devlin said, "Nothing should be prosecuted that does not lie outside the limits of tolerance" > > If anything now exists, something must have come from nothing, or something > > must be eternal. Since something cannot come from nothing, something must be > > eternal. > ... so therefore I exist. There is a theory in Quantum Mechanics that > states that the more likely you are a specific location, the less likely you > are there. Have you been reading "The Mind's I" or "Godel, Escher, and Bach"? > > I have the idea in me of the most perfect being. > > This being, if he _exists_, is more perfect than a most perfect being that > > does not _exist. That is, existence is an attribute of perfection. > > Therefore the most perfect being must exist. > > Deep thoughts... by Ben Tan. Wow, Ben what is in those law books :^). I wish I was. 2 week.. 2 week.. Arrgghhh! > Hmmm, sounds like that skit from Saturday Night Live, Self Affirmation with > Richard Smalley... because I'm good enough, smart enough, and gosh people > really like me :^). That's like our Chief Justice here saying, in the light of a recent molest case where the lawyer was supposed to have harassed the victim while she was on the stand, said, "I find it impossible that any competent lawyer would persue such a line of questioning. Therefore, it must be at the direction of the client. Thus if I see this line of questioning again, I will see to it that sentencing is doubled!" The lawyer had asked the victim if she was sure it was the accused who had touched her and not her boyfriend who was with her. He then asked if her boyfriend was not in the habbit of touching her.. etc.. bentan Truth, Justice and the Singapore way... ;-) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 20:27:51 +0600 From: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com (John Limcangco - CIS) To: TOYOTA-MODS@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Killing CATs > > > Got a '88 with a cat converter choking up the exhaust. Could someone who has > > > Killed a CAT before tell me what to expect. Upside, Downside. Should I > > Lotsa blood and fur flying. > > Did I tell you guys about the one where a friend with a Hyundai Excel heard > mewing from under the hood after driving a couple of miles.. We had one > scared kitty in there. Lucky it didn't hit the belts ;-( > This may be WOB material..... I started my car one morning and I heard a lot of thumping and screeching. I stopped the engine and opened the hood to see what was wrong. I found 'Lotsa fur flying' and a really dizzy cat lying by the botom of the radiator. This cat wasn't so lucky as it got caught in one of the belts -- the belt came off the pulley! However, it was lucky enough to survive. He just crawled out of the engine compartment by himself and *ran* off... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Baldwin_at_ASGFS1PO@asgccmail1.arlut.utexas.edu Date: Thu, 02 Mar 95 12:59:55 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2 Turbo boost pressure I am confused. Toyota claims a maximum boost pressure of about 10 or 11 psi. HKS literature claims that stock condition for the MR2 Turbo is 7 psi! Whats the deal? Thanks, Richard Baldwin 91 MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 16:31:31 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Killing Cats Gotta agree with Kevin. If you don't open up the intake, opening up the exhaust usually doesn't do anything for you but make more noise. Now, if you open up the intake as well, tinker with the EFI, maybe retard the cam timing (for more top-end power) you might find some power you didn't formerly have! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Richard G. Baldwin Jr" Date: Thu, 02 Mar 95 19:53:34 -400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Filter chargers I have a 91 MR2 Turbo and would like to know more about the filter-chargers that are available for my car. I would like to here from people who are currently using them. Thanks, Richard Baldwin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: nimajneb!btptan@csar.csah.com (Benjamin T.P. Tan) Subject: Valve clearance. Adjustment for performance. To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods) Date: Sat, 4 Mar 1995 11:08:24 +0800 (SST) Just wondering. I've got my valve clearence now set at .15 (all in mm) for the intake and .20 for the exhaust. What does it do for my performance if I play with these settings? A friend also with a 2T uses .20 and .25. For that matter, what if I reduce to .15 for both in and out. Guess what I need to know is how this affects the performance and what to look out for when tweeking it. Thanks. bentan TA40/2T-B xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu Date: Sat, 4 Mar 95 21:16:14 HST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Vinal Cut Stickers... I think i mentioned this before...Or I Hope I did... I have a vinal sticker machine or a cutter to cut vinal stickers.. I'm going to Las Vegas for 2 months or so possibly to work for Eastwood Studios or something the guys who made or work for capcom making the street fighter 2 game and kyrandia or some nonsense... Umm... I have several designs and if you want any thing cut or not let me know.. i'll cut it for free like stickers for windshields etc etc.. just FYI -Koji xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 05:03:34 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: GReddy/TRUST Turbo Kits for 84-87 Corolla GT-S Fellow Modders, Just FYI, GReddy/TRUST no longer carry the turbo kits for 85-87 GT-S. Their explanation for discontinuing the kit was that there was incompatability with the kits and American spec'd cars also in order to run the kit you must remove the brake booster. It can resolve that with a little hot rod trick that they use for cars with big cams, it's a brake booster reservoir that they readily sell for late model GM F-bodies. I hope I could convince them to sell me a unit... if not then I would have to tear apart a RX7 Turbo II to scavenge some parts... namely the Hitachi turbo. Yo Roger... Mr. 4AG Master, any inputs on this. Latas, Allan xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 05:07:48 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AG-Z blocks and Stroker Cranks... Cc: allanc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Folks, I'm searching for a 4AG-EZ blocks (from the supercharged MR2's) so I could stuff a 1.8l crank into and hopefully punch out as well. Does anyone know of a reliable junkyard in the Northern Cal (Bay Area) or anywhere in the U.S. that specializes in Toyotas. Just out of curiosity... do you know of anyone else besides HKS and TRD that produces a 1.8l stroker crank for 4AG based engine. I'm also trying to compare prices as well. Latas, Allan xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 06:48:52 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: GReddy/TRUST Turbo Kits for 84-87 Corolla GT-S. Just FYI, GReddy/TRUST no longer carry the turbo kits for 85-87 GT-S. Their explanation for discontinuing the kits were that there was incompatability issues with the American spec'd cars and also in order to run the kits you must remove the brake booster. I can resolve that with a little hot rod trick that they use for cars with big cams, it's a brake booster reservoir that they readily sell for late model GM F-bodies. I hope I could convince them to sell me a unit... if not then I would have to tear apart a RX7 Turbo II to scavenge some parts... namely the Hitachi turbo. Yo Roger, Mr. 4AG master... any advice you could throw our way? Latas, Allan xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 13:47:06 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: supras@vicor.com Subject: Supra turbo oiler, part 1 (intro) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com ======================================================================== Note that I am receiving no benefit for the creation and distribution of this information. I have no connections whatsoever with any manufacturers mentioned in these messages. I'm just a happy consumer relating my experiences so that you might benefit. This is neither a commercial, nor an endorsement for any of the products mentioned here. ************************************************************************ * * * IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER!!! * * * * I and my employer (Cadence, for whom I NEVER speak for) disclaim * * any responsibility for any consequences arising from you reading or * * following the suggestions or advice contained in this series of * * messages. I admit no expert knowledge with any aspect of the sub- * * ject material contained herein. This means that YOU, alone, are * * completely responsible for any damages, consequential or otherwise, * * which may occur from performing any modifications to any vehicles. * * YOU have been so warned! * * * ************************************************************************ With that said, let't get on with it.... Some of you are intrigued about what exactly is a turbo oiler. Why is it useful? Well.... Simply, a turbo "oiler" is an accessory device which provides a flow of pressurized oil to the engine's lubrication (oil) system when the engine (and therefore its mechanical oil pump) is turned off. This flow of oil is directed primarily to the engine's turbocharger, although the entire engine may also receive it. Some "oiler"s are passive, simply driven by a pressurized reservoir. The one I am using, and the more commonly thought of type, is the type which is electrically powered using the vehicle's 12VDC battery. On (gas) turbo cars there are two potential benefits to this device: 1. It can prevent dry starts. When you first start your engine, there is zero oil pressure in the engine, and any metal contact surfaces such as bearings (turbo/engine) are oil-starved. They might only have a light coating of oil on them from the last time the engine was run. Even worse, it takes some time for your engine-driven mechanical oil pump to build up pressure and deliver oil to those parts. In the meantime, your expensive metal could be wearing itself down much more than a short drive on the highway. This sounds a lot like a "Slick 50" commercial, but it is probably true. 2. It can prevent turbo bearing damage from oil coking. Preventing this event from happening is probably the main reason why Toyota recommends idling your turbo engine for up to 2 minutes. The object is to let the turbo spin down, and to draw away high heat built-up inside the turbo so that the oil in there doesn't "burn" and congeal up into a hard, gritty, mess called "coke". If oil coking occurs, it not only forms a gritty (carbon) substance to grind in your turbo's bearings, but might also clog up the oil passageways, preventing necessary lubrication. This leads to turbo wear and failure, which can be very expensive! Plus a failed turbo could seriously damage your engine (more $$), and endanger yourself or others ($$$...). Heat soak-back occurs because the turbo's turbine and housings are heated by the exhaust (VERY HOT) to a temperature hot enough to burn or coke the oil. The reason why this doesn't hurt during normal operation is because the oil (and water, if so cooled) is continually flowing through the turbo and therefore can draw the heat away from the bearing area so that it stays cool enough. When the engine (and its engine-driven oil pump) are stopped, the oil (and water) which remains isn't enough to keep the bearing area cool enough to prevent coking if the turbo parts are really hot. The heat flows from the hotter parts to the bearing and you're in trouble. That's why you need to idle the car to cool down the turbo before shutting the engine down. On most water-cooled turbos, such as the Supra's, I've read that the water isn't there to prevent the coking phenomenon, but rather to lower the turbo's running temperatures (which can indirectly affect coking). If you're reading this and you have a non-turbocharged (normally- aspirated) car, then you might derive benefits from #1, but #2 is not really applicable. Since I've mentioned the benefits, I should also tell you of some of the potential downsides of this device (funny, I never really thought of them myself much until now): 3. Failure of the system could cause a large (pressurized) OIL LEAK. This might result in engine/turbo damage, including FIRE, as well as loss of visibility, traction, brakes, and vehicle control, etc. This is probably the main reason why car manufacturers don't include them as standard equipment on vehicles. (Plus, maybe they want you to buy a new one every so often :) ). If you choose to install an oiler, then you would have to accept the responsibility to properly inspect and maintain the system. Also, you would either need to remove it, or properly inform the subsequent owner(s) of this liability when transferring the vehicle. 4. Other potential (and less catastrophic) irritations include - small oil leaks, which might damage rubber or plastic parts over time, or leave oily spots in your parking spot, and a dead or weakened battery, which could leave you stranded. An electric pump also makes a bit of noise and vibration, which might irritate somebody or confuse your vehicle alarm. Mechanics working on the car might be confused by presence of this (or any other) after- market accessory. Of course, anytime you add something to a system, you increase its chances that something might fail. You gamble that any failures encountered will be slight or predictable, and thus be more than offset by the potential benefits. Possible alternatives to using this device or similar ones, to prevent turbo heat soak-back problems include: * Do nothing at all, treat it like any normal car. > Probably happens to most turbo cars. (then they die early?) * Idle the car after driving as the manufacturer recommends. > Really inconvenient, but must work. > Has no advantages for #1. * Install a device which leaves the engine running for some time, aka a turbo "timer". > Has its own liabilities, I don't have any experience. > Not so bad with automatic transmission equipped cars. > Bad idea for enclosed-garaged vehicles (like Supras)! > Has no advantages for #1. * Use only synthetic oils and pray that they won't coke up. > More expensive, may have leakage problems, might not have > enough benefit in this area (i.e. coke resistance, flash > point, thermal breakdown...), although better than dino-oil. > Has no advantages towards #1, other than quicker flow when > cold. (Synthetics DO have some advantages...) So from a user's perspective, the big advantage to the "oiler" system is you don't need to idle for 2 minutes (just a few secs to ensure the turbo isn't spinning hi-revs), and there is a good potential for increasing the service life of the engine (or at least to delay costly maintenance). But, users don't always consider the disadvantages :), since they're too happy about it working, until it breaks down. I don't mean to scare you off with #3, but it is something to consider. (to be continued) ======================================================================== Next part: a simple, commercial implementation, "Turbo-Life(tm)". I'm trying to keep my messages shorter, so 'till next time... Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS TEMS, leather, 158K miles! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: mh@cypress.com (Marc Hartranft / Mgr. Tech. Development) Subject: 4AGZE BLOCK Availability To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (toyota-mods) Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 07:28:52 -0800 (PST) > > Allan, > > I am pretty sure that the block used for the 4AGZE is the same as > that used for the 87 and later 4AGE motor.. To be absolutely sure, > latch onto a 88 or later block.. This should have the bigger rod bearing > journals as well, so it is pretty easy to tell if you have the correct > block. > > I'd try Attarco locally... The Toyota Connection is a little more > pricey but another option. > > Good luck > > Marc SFR ITA #7 MR2 > > > > > Folks, > > > > I'm searching for a 4AG-EZ blocks (from the supercharged MR2's) > > so I could stuff a 1.8l crank into and hopefully punch out as well. Does > > anyone know of a reliable junkyard in the Northern Cal (Bay Area) or > > anywhere in the U.S. that specializes in Toyotas. > > > > Just out of curiosity... do you know of anyone else besides HKS > > and TRD that produces a 1.8l stroker crank for 4AG based engine. I'm > > also trying to compare prices as well. > > > > Latas, > > Allan xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 11:33:53 -0500 From: Mark Sink - Medaphis Development To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 4AG-Z blocks and Stroker Cranks... > Folks, > > I'm searching for a 4AG-EZ blocks (from the supercharged MR2's) > so I could stuff a 1.8l crank into and hopefully punch out as well. Does > anyone know of a reliable junkyard in the Northern Cal (Bay Area) or > anywhere in the U.S. that specializes in Toyotas. > > Just out of curiosity... do you know of anyone else besides HKS > and TRD that produces a 1.8l stroker crank for 4AG based engine. I'm > also trying to compare prices as well. > > Latas, > Allan Paeco can set you up with anything. In fact, their stroker kit will bit a bit bigger than HKS/TRD. The stroke is .25" over stock which is slightly more than 6mm. It's 6.35mm I don't have their number handy. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 11:46:24 -0500 From: Mark Sink - Medaphis Development To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Supra turbo oiler, part 1 (intro) Thanks for the info on pre/post lubing.. one thought I'd like to add (having that twin turbo mechtech article in my mind) is that some turbo's have no oil lines at all, and hence need no pre/post lubing from the engine. The Aerodyne turbos have a self-contained reservoir of synthetic oil. This illiminates all the hassle with the turbo, but does not give the benefits of pre/post lubing the engine itself.... mark xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 12:01:22 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Another adminin bounce! I am forwarding this message. Majordomo whined about it for some reason although I can't figure out why! Chris >>>>>>Begin Forwarded Message<<<<<< > From daemon Tue Mar 7 10:15:42 1995 > Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 10:15:41 -0500 > To: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com > From: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com > Subject: BOUNCE toyota-mods@cyberauto.com: Admin request > > Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 15:22:36 +0000 > From: CAPTAIN CHAOS > To: toyota-mods > Subject: Turbo kits > > Since there seems to be some interest in turbo kits floating about, i was > wondering if any of you guys in the US can help me, with what im looking for? > > Ive seen the HKS catalog and i cant see any mention of a kit for the > 18R-G in my 78 Celica.. I was wondering if any of you guys over there, can > do a bit of investigation for me into availability of kits, as i dont have easy > access to a phone, or the cash to make long distance calls at peak office > hours :) > > Ive been itching to get my hands on a kit, because i dont fancy scraping > together the parts myself :) > > Any help would be gratefully appreciated.. ;) > > Andy. > > -- > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > "All good people are weak; they are good because they are not strong > enough to be evil." F. Nietzsche > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 15:22:49 MEZ From: Stephen Ferguson To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: GReddy/TRUST Turbo Kits for 84-87 Corolla GT-S I wasn't aware such a kit existed. Approximately what was the hp increase and what was the cost? Perhaps you could give us a simple overview of the changes that had to be made (decreased CR with a new gasket, exhaust mods, intake mods...) Stephen p.s. Yes, after 6 months I REALLY miss my Corolla. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 08:30:21 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Recent me/mine/mods (March 95) In my usual tradition of not doing anything until it is almost too late, I am posting another installment of recent (?) me/mine/mods. I (or Marc) may have already posted this first one, but I don't remember seeing any discussion on the subject and feel that it has some really good info in there. I'm not going to whine about getting help, since I/ve had a few volunteers as of late (although I've been too busy to get them started!). Hopefully I'll have the PPP link up and running from the house soon, and then I can get caught up. Chris ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marc Bremmer: > Hey Folks, > > I just wanted to do a little write-up on what I have done to my > 86 4x4 PU with a 22R. First thing I did was install a Header. It is a > JC Whitney unit I bought this from a guy for $35 and it looked pretty > well made. I had to drill some holes in the mounting flange > to get the the thing to fit (it is for a 20R I think). Then I realized > that the exhaust was wholly inadequate. So I put in 2.25inch pipe with > a Turbo Muffler. Ran better but not quite there. > I had a Weber 40DFAV carb so I made an adaptor plate and put the carb on > (with a very custom air cleaner). After all this I am having a little trouble still.. > (aside from the fact that it needs a valve job). It is running rich in spots > and lean in other spots.. Boy does it need tuning.. After i get it all sorted out > I am going to put some Rancho RS9000's and some Downey 2" rear springs on and > crank the front up a little bit (IFS). > > The header fits,but the flange that connects with the exhaust rattles > against the trasnmission/transfercase mount. I thought about disposing of this and > putting in a standard slip fitting and clamp. I also had to put some 3/8" > spacers under the sway bar mounts. Maybe i should have just bought a real header > for 180$ Naaa.. I like my settup and besides it is bargain basement.. I > would rather put some bucks in the suspension. > > Marc Michael Steadman: > Name : Michael Steadman > Location: Boston, MA > Model : 1993 MR2 Turbo > Engine : 3S-GTE > Mods : None yet > (factory limited slip option) > email : steadman@bbn.com > > Future : K&N air filter in the spring, maybe some of the HKS mods. Robert Raesemann: > Name : Robert Raesemann > Location : Jacksonville, FL > Model : '89 MR2 Supercharged > Engine : 4A-GZE(S) > Mods : no mods yet > email : rcr@jolt.jea.ci.jax.fl.us > > I just bought my car about 6 months ago. I am interested in making some > modifications but I want to get the most bang for my buck. I have a decent > background in auto mechanics. ( I drive an MGB in high school, so it was a > neccesity) I am looking to expand my knowledge and hopefully get to play > around with my car a little more now that I have finished college and have > some time and money. James Lewandowski: > Name - James Lewandowski > Location - Arnprior Ontario, Canada > Model - 1989 Supra, 1993 4 runner, 1985 Celica GT > engine - 7MGTE, 22RE,22RE > Mods - very little - upgraded stereo system in all vehicles, loaded Supra/4 runner > > As an added note - > Brotherer also has 2 supras (88 and 89) and 86 runner and 86 4x4 truck. > engine - 7MGTE,7mGTE,22rE,22re Marc Summers: > Name : Marc L. Summers > Location : Hillsboro Oregon U.S.A. > Model : 1993 MR2 Turbo GTE > Engine : 3S-GTE DOHC 4 90- 1998 200@6000 200@3200 3.39 3.39 8.1:1 7psi/0.49bar > Mods : As I am just getting started, I have not made any mods, "YET" > Email : marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com Richard Baldwin: > Name :Richard G Baldwin Jr >Location :Austin, TX > Model :1991 MR2 Turbo > Engine :3SGTE > Mods :HKS Turbo Exhaust, Aeroware body kit > email :rbaldwin@mail.utexas.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 20:11:17 -0600 From: limcanj@cscoe.ac.com (John Limcangco - CIS) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: More 18RG questions... I just bagged a complete 18RG engine this past weekend. I plan to rebuild the engine before I drop it in my car. The mechanic that will be working on the engine suggests that the pistons should be replaced. How much compression do I need? What are the pros and cons of going high-comp? Second question is about the flywheel on the engine. Its a 'lightened' after- market piece, is this good or bad? Should I go back to the heavier stock flywheel? I'm under the impression that a heavier flywheel is better, please correct me if I'm wrong. BTW, the engine will be installed in a Cressida -- if that matters. Does anybody out there have an 18RG engine with air conditioning and power steering? I'm looking at the engine, and it seems like I have to give up either a/c compressor or the p/s pump. I don't want to do that -- can I keep both? I'll post other questions as they pop-up. Thanks in advance! John Limcangco Manila, Philippines. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: More 18RG questions... Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 08:41:17 +0000 From: "A.M.Lagden" In message <9503140211.AA07614@nommhx01.MINNEHAHA>, limcanj@cscoe.ac.com writes : > >I just bagged a complete 18RG engine this past weekend. I plan to rebuild the >engine before I drop it in my car. > Enjoy it mae. I absolutley love my 18RG.. > >Does anybody out there have an 18RG engine with air conditioning and power >steering? I'm looking at the engine, and it seems like I have to give up eith >er >a/c compressor or the p/s pump. I don't want to do that -- can I keep both? > Ive never seen one myself either, the workshop manual over here (Haynes) or my Toyota owners manual both have no mention of these extras being on an 18RG, I would love to get power steering onto my 78 Celica, as its so heavy to steer, with bigger tyres/wheels. My 18RG seems to have 3 belt slots on the pulley, and a bracket hole on the side of the engine, as it was from a newer type celica (82/83) model type RA63, so perhaps your toyota dealer could look in his parts see if any bits are available, might help you a bit.. ;) -- Andrew Lagden, Final Year computer science student, University Of Kent, UK 78 Celica 2000GT (18RG) >John Limcangco >Manila, Philippines. > Ps. Whats the toyota situation over there? My Father has been to Philippenes, and says that he saw a few celica's running around, in pretty good condition. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 14:28:54 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Check this out! I know how tardy I am about getting the new member info out, but found this very interesting. Dave here gets awards for both highest mileage Supra _and_ longest email address! Check this out... Chris > From: Dave_Chin_at_~cpgpo01-hsd-nj@ccmail.bms.com > > Name: Dave Chin > Location: Central New Jersey > Model: 83 Supra > Engine: 5MGE 2.8 DOHC > Mods: HKS Performance Exhaust System (incl. headers) > Comments: 230,000+ trouble-free miles and still going > strong. Original engine. Original owner. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 11:55:52 -0800 To: Stephen Ferguson , Subject: Re: GReddy/TRUST Turbo Kits for 84-87 Corolla GT-S Cc: allanc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Mar 7, 3:22pm, Stephen Ferguson wrote: > Subject: Re: GReddy/TRUST Turbo Kits for 84-87 Corolla GT-S > I wasn't aware such a kit existed. Approximately what was the hp > increase and what was the cost? Perhaps you could give us a > simple overview of the changes that had to be made (decreased CR > with a new gasket, exhaust mods, intake mods...) It was mentioned to me by a fellow modder (Was it you Mark?Sink) who installed a kit in his MR2. If you still have the older GReddy catalog, could you please fax me a copy. I could probably write up a brief overview of it. And attempt to talk them into it again. > Stephen > > p.s. Yes, after 6 months I REALLY miss my Corolla. 6 months is not too bad... considering it's been a year and half for me... and it will remain permanent since my baby bro inherited it. Still in search of that mystery GT-S... Hey John Lee... any luck on your end? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Mark Sink - Medaphis Development Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 15:07:04 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: GReddy/TRUST Turbo Kits for 84-87 Corolla GT-S > > On Mar 7, 3:22pm, Stephen Ferguson wrote: > > Subject: Re: GReddy/TRUST Turbo Kits for 84-87 Corolla GT-S > > I wasn't aware such a kit existed. Approximately what was the hp > > increase and what was the cost? Perhaps you could give us a > > simple overview of the changes that had to be made (decreased CR > > with a new gasket, exhaust mods, intake mods...) > > It was mentioned to me by a fellow modder (Was it you Mark?Sink) > who installed a kit in his MR2. If you still have the older GReddy > catalog, could you please fax me a copy. I could probably write up a > brief overview of it. And attempt to talk them into it again. > > > Stephen It probably was me, but I never put one on my MR2. When I talked to them about adapting the kit to the MR2, they said they might be getting a place in Mexico to fabricate the plumbing for it. Aki, who works for AtoZ systems was supposed to be working on that. My catalog only pentions that the price is TBA, and the HP that can be realized is 280HP. Nothing else is said about it, not even what it comes/came with, but I'll check again just to make sure if I can find it. Mark Sink xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 Mar 95 12:33:02 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: How good is this? the miles just keep on accumulating... I just got my California, USA smog check done today. I might have gotten better results if I had cleaned out my K&N more recently. (Last tuned-up at 140K) @ 2500 RPM allowed measured HC ppm 220 16 CO % 1.20 0.01 CO2 15.3 O2 0.0 @ IDLE allowed measured HC ppm 100 23 CO % 1.00 0.01 CO2 15.2 O2 0.3 Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS TEMS, leather, 159K miles! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 12:05:19 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Supra turbo oiler, part 2 Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com ======================================================================== Note that I am receiving no benefit for the creation and distribution of this information. I have no connections whatsoever with any manufacturers mentioned in these messages. I'm just a happy consumer relating my experiences so that you might benefit. This is neither a commercial, nor an endorsement for any of the products mentioned here. ************************************************************************ * * * IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER!!! * * * * I and my employer (Cadence, for whom I NEVER speak for) disclaim * * any responsibility for any consequences arising from you reading or * * following the suggestions or advice contained in this series of * * messages. I admit no expert knowledge with any aspect of the sub- * * ject material contained herein. This means that YOU, alone, are * * completely responsible for any damages, consequential or otherwise, * * which may occur from performing any modifications to any vehicles. * * YOU have been so warned! * * * ************************************************************************ With that said, let't get on with it.... Last time I described the basics of turbo heat soak-back. When I went around looking for an oiler to install (1990), there were two pump systems on the market. One is still around (I believe) called "Pre-Luber", and was sold by "Sales Professionals, Inc.". I've recently seen that you can currently get this (or a facimile) through J.C. Whitney & Co. of all places, but it's expensive at $419. It's an oil pump with an electronics module to trigger the pump on/off based on time. I didn't choose that one. The (other) pump system I chose was called "Turbo-Life(tm)", and it had two attributes I thought were nice. Firstly, it was cheaper in price than the other, and secondly, its advertisement showed a simple schematic of how it functioned, and it has a simple mechanical control system. This looked like it would be more reliable (KISS), plus the designed operation made more sense to me. Other possible solutions offered at the time were various oil reservoir based systems, an (air) cooling fan system, and HKS' and others' engine run-on timers. A brief history of "Turbo-Life(tm)" is in order, since I haven't seen it advertised for some time. The original ads I saw it featured in were for/with an outfit called "Turbo Power", which just happened to be located nearby me in Santa Clara, CA. I don't know if they personally developed this system, but they were no longer selling them when I called them up. They sold off the product rights to another company, called "Star Project", which was based in either Ohio or Arizona (confusing). So, I called them up, looking for information, and then the next thing you know, surprise, I find they COD'd a unit to me. Kinda sleazy, but I figured I really wanted it anyways, so I bought it for something under $250 (memory escapes me...). This turbo oiler system was most likely developed as an off-shoot from attempts at modifying normally aspirated cars to become turbocharged. Using these parts, you could probably output enough oil to lube a RUNNING turbocharger separately from the engine's lubrication system. Anyways, "Turbo Power" has since left my neighborhood, but I've seen them advertise still, and they're still in California somewhere. If you really want to buy this product, I suspect you'd need to call them up, since I suspect "Star Project" has burned-out. (They were supposedly really into Corvette mods.) I also remember seeing an outfit called "AUTOQUIP" claiming to sell the same named device. Phone numbers will be supplied later. Here's how the "Turbo-Life" system works. There is an electric (oil compatible) pump. Its controls are simple mechanical pressure and thermal switches. When there is insufficient oil pressure and the temperature is hot, the pump is switched on. It stays on until the temperature has dropped to the shut-off point. This varies the time, depending on the ambient temperature and how hard you've driven the car. There is a manual override switch supplied to force the pump on for pre- lubed starts. This was the basic control as supplied with the Turbo-Life kit. I further modified this control setup for better performance and an easier interface and installation, which will be described in future messages. The source for the pump is off the oil drain plug. From there it goes directly to the pump, which outputs to a check-valve, and then to the remote oil filter. From there, it banjo's to the turbocharger's oil supply line, which will not only feed the turbo, but also the entire engine. The pump's oil filter can use the same model Toyota filters you use for your engine! Most of the parts supplied in the kit are probably off-the-shelf (somewhere). The main parts are an electic pump, a remote oil filter mount, a thermal switch, 2 pressure switches, various NPT and flare fittings, adaptors, and connectors, 1/4" ID 300psi neoprene (oil*) hose, and miscellaneous wiring, connectors, etc. The only real difficult or custom pieces to obtain should be the two banjo fittings and bolts for your Supra (or other car). Thermal and pressures switches are probably commonly available somewhere off-the-shelf. Given the cost of the pump, it might be more cost effective to buy the Turbo-Life kit (I don't know the kits current pricing or availability) rather than spending time gathering the necessary parts yourself. You're going to need more parts from hardware stores anyways :). * Note: Never use fuel line, it's only oil RESISTANT, not oil proof! Banjos are special fittings used with hollow bolts with holes drilled to allow oil flow. The fittings look like a banjo, hence their names. An example of such a fitting is the one which is actually part of the steel oil supply line going to the turbocharger where it attaches to the engine. These must mate exactly with the factory pieces, otherwise they won't work. One of them rides piggyback on the existing turbo oil supply line (with a longer bolt), and the other one replaces the oil drain plug. Since the threading is BIG at the plug, the banjo fitting for it is HUGE. I use either a 24mm or 25mm (or Crescent) wrench to loosen it. Alternatively, you could put in a dedicated supply for the pump, separate from the oil drain plug, but I think you'd need to have that (welding) done by a competent shop. I suppose a machine shop could build the necessary banjo parts from similar sized pieces. The system has worked well for around 3 years, after which the pump unit died. This failure only caused me to revert back to my original conventional idling techniques (INCONVENIENT!) until I installed a replacement pump I found for $80. Other than that, I haven't had any problems with it which I haven't worked out! The only weak point the installation manual notes is that the supplied 300psi neoprene hose could deteriorate after 2 years of usage (in high heat areas). I've been running with the same hoses for 4 years now, and I haven't seen any problems with the hoses on inspection. Retailers' information. None of these have been verified, and they may be out-of-date or defunct: * Star Project P.O. Box 613 Parkman, Ohio 44080 (602) 883-4144 (800) 289-8826 for orders (and for confusion) Star Project 6055 S. Palomino Tucson, AZ 85746 * Turbo Power 4301-B Product Drive Cameron Park, CA 95682 (916) 677-2233 AUTOQUIP 230 So. State Geneseo, IL 61254 (309) 944-5716 Sales Professionals, Inc. 731 W. Dekalb Pike King of Prussia, PA 19406 (800) 836-8601 or (215) 992-9904 J.C. Whitney (312) 431-6102 Stay tuned for my installation details, which will describe locations, modifications, and one installation (banjo-related) problem I encountered... (to be continued) ======================================================================== Next part: installation time 'till next time... Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS TEMS, leather, 159K miles! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 21:53:10 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 18RG status I mentioned some time back that I now have an 18RG head, and that I went to the junkyard and got an 18RC block. That sat on the tailgate of the truck in the garage for a few weeks until tonight, when I pulled the pistons out. Don't look too bad, but the number 3 is scored up a bit and it's rod bearing got a little scored as well. I hope to be sending the block to the machine shop soon to be cleaned up. Just heard a rumor that there might be a running 18RG motor here in town. That's pretty incredible in a small southern town like this, but it just goes to show that you never know. I had to finally give up on getting the the bolt holding the crank pulley off. That dude was on there but good. I had a 3 foot piece of sway bar jammed in the crank to hold it in place, and my 2 foot cheater bar on the end of the ratchet, and still couldn't get it to budge. I've tried the impact wrench and the impact driver. I hope the machinist has something for this. I'll report back after I hear from the machine shop later this week. Any of you 18RG guru's want to make some piston suggestions? I'm supposed to be running flat-tops if I use this for our local mini-stock racing, but I'd be the only one, probably. What I need is a high-compression, light weight piston with a flat top. Anyone know of anything like this? O (oops) anthing like that? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 08:05:42 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 18RG status > Just a thought, dont the valves on the 18RG head extend right into the grooves > on the 18RG pistons? Id say it would be quite awkward to find anything better > than the flat-top 18R pistons which come right flat with the block at TDC. > Supposedly that only gives a CR of 7:1 which is not what your after, so > i was wondering how you would avoid valve collisions if you want a higher > CR ? > > I cant see how you would get around the problem, so please enlighten me, > because im not to experienced when it comes to dismantling engines.. > (only taken apart 1 18RG.. and wasnt mine either.. :) > > Andy.. Ok, good info here! So what you're saying is that when you put an 18RG head on an 18RC block (which has flat-top pistons that extend about 6 mm above the deck surface at TDC) then you either need to swap pistons as well or you'll have 7:1 compression. Very interesting, indeed. This I did not know. Anyone else have similar info to support this theory? Can anyone describe to me what a stock 18RG piston looks like (at TDC)? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 08:26:57 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Virus that may affect us... This may be old news to some of you, but I heard about this new email-borne virus that looks like it may be a problem. I think you'll see why I don't feel this is a waste of bandwidth in our group... Supposedly, this virus arrives at a machine with the subject "Good Times". When the reader opens this mail to read it, it activates the virus. (Note that this seems highly unlikely to me, and I almost think I smell an April Fool's trick, but in the interest of being cautious, and since I don't think viruses are anything to be "fooling" with...) What makes this thing especially ugly, if this report is true, is that it then goes through your mail box and mails itself to your "friends", ie, other email addresses that it finds there. Now you can see why I am warning the group--If one of us gets this, it is quite likely that all of us will. What should you do if you get email with "Good Times" in the subject line? First, without opening the mail, write down the address of the sender. Second, delete the message without reading it. Third, mail the "sender" and let them know their machine generated the mail. MOST IMPORTANT IN THE ABOVE: DO NOT READ THE MAIL. As likely as not it will be too late when you mail the sender to notify them that their machine is infected (but it's the thought that counts.) Once infected, this virus supposedly destroys the hard drive. The only reason I suggest mailing the sender to notify them is if it may not be able to destroy the hard drive in some cases, according to the info I got. In this case, the computer might just sit there, infected, looking to infect others. Note that I seriously doubt that this will work on a UNIX box. Not that I plan on reading the mail here if I get it! Again, I start to get worried when I hear about these things just before April 1, but I figured this was a case of "better safe than sorry." Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 18RG status Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 14:33:37 +0000 From: "A.M.Lagden" In message <199503201305.IAA10542@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>, cmyer@cyberauto.co m writes: >> Just a thought, dont the valves on the 18RG head extend right into the groov >es >> on the 18RG pistons? Id say it would be quite awkward to find anything bette >r >> than the flat-top 18R pistons which come right flat with the block at TDC. >> Supposedly that only gives a CR of 7:1 which is not what your after, so >> i was wondering how you would avoid valve collisions if you want a higher >> CR ? >> >> I cant see how you would get around the problem, so please enlighten me, >> because im not to experienced when it comes to dismantling engines.. >> (only taken apart 1 18RG.. and wasnt mine either.. :) >> >> Andy.. > >Ok, good info here! So what you're saying is that when you put an >18RG head on an 18RC block (which has flat-top pistons that extend >about 6 mm above the deck surface at TDC) then you either need to >swap pistons as well or you'll have 7:1 compression. Very >interesting, indeed. This I did not know. > Erm, im not to sure about the 18RCm, i just thought that the pistons on my old 18R where near level with the deck, not to sure about 6mm above but could be. What compression ratio do 18RC run in US? The 18R in the UK was normally about 8.something I know that the pistons in the 18RG is saw dismantled, where slightly dome-ed and had two wedges out of em for the valves.. (Incidently im sure mine also had this when i poked an endoscope down the spark plug holes ... :) One thing is for definate, a bloke in the UK put 18R pistons in his 18RG engine and rekons he got a 7:1 compression ratio. He then stuck 16PSI of boost thru the motor with a Holset turbo and said he got approx 235BHP! >Anyone else have similar info to support this theory? Can anyone >describe to me what a stock 18RG piston looks like (at TDC)? > I have my Toyota HAYNES workshop manual back in my room, so i will check see if there is any info on pistons/clearances ect, perhaps ill try and scan the cutaway drawing of the 18RG which shows the protruding pistons.. Andy. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 10:33:53 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Ignore the virus thing! As I strongly suspected (and strongly suggested in my previous post about viruses), the "Good Times" virus is just a hoax. I wanted to get something out quickly in the off chance that there was any truth to the rumor, and I wasted no time with research. Over the next few hours I thought about the vanishingly small probability of such a virus being possible, and then found an article in this months edition of "Sun Expert" that confirmed it--"Good Times" is a hoax. Sorry, just trying to be cautious. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 14:26:13 EST From: Tim Dziechowski To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: timd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Virus that may affect us... Chris - The "Good Times" virus has been widely debunked in the internet as a fraud. There just isn't any way that a bit of ascii email can turn itself into a binary executable. timd@hitu.enet.dec.com (Tim Dziechowski '92 4x4 pickup 22re Borla + K&N) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 14:35:38 EST From: Tim Dziechowski To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: timd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Crank pulley nut tricks > I had to finally give up on getting the the bolt holding the crank pulley > off. That dude was on there but good. I had a 3 foot piece of sway > bar jammed in the crank to hold it in place, and my 2 foot cheater bar > on the end of the ratchet, and still couldn't get it to budge. I've > tried the impact wrench and the impact driver. I hope the machinist > has something for this. Try this...it works when even impact wrenches won't. Replace the 2' cheater with a longer one. Wedge the longer bar assembly under the car against something solid..frame section is best. Get fingers out of the way and crank the car over. (Self removing pulley nuts). If that doesn't work, borrow a 600 ft-lb impact wrench from a truck mechanic. timd@hitu.enet.dec.com (Tim Dziechowski - '92 4x4 pickup 22re Borla + K&N) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 15:47:44 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Nut Tricks Excellent idea with the self-removing crank pulley nut trick. The one thing I didn't mention was that the engine is sitting on the tailgate of my truck. :-( Hopefully the machine shop will have the 600 ft-lb impact wrench! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: John Red-Horse Subject: Re: Crank pulley nut tricks To: timd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Tim Dziechowski) Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 17:26:43 -0500 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, timd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Tim Dziechowski wrote: > > Try this...it works when even impact wrenches won't. Replace the 2' cheater > with a longer one. Wedge the longer bar assembly under the car against > something solid..frame section is best. I've done this a number of times. I like the garage floor the best. You just need to be real careful to get the wrench on the right side of the car. > Get fingers out of the way and > crank the car over. (Self removing pulley nuts). > > If that doesn't work, borrow a 600 ft-lb impact wrench from a truck mechanic. > I can't imagine this setup not working. One really big caveat: make sure that you disconnect your coil. You don't want your engine to start. Trust me. cheers, john xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Kalalahti Matti Subject: Re: 18RG status To: aml2@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (A.M.Lagden) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 00:49:51 +0200 (EET) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Erm, im not to sure about the 18RCm, i just thought that the pistons > on my old 18R where near level with the deck, not to sure about > 6mm above but could be. What compression ratio do 18RC run in US? > The 18R in the UK was normally about 8.something 8.5 for both US and Euro versions. > I know that the pistons in the 18RG is saw dismantled, where > slightly dome-ed and had two wedges out of em for the valves.. True. > (Incidently im sure mine also had this when i poked an endoscope > down the spark plug holes ... :) ;) > One thing is for definate, a bloke in the UK put 18R pistons in his > 18RG engine and rekons he got a 7:1 compression ratio. He then stuck > 16PSI of boost thru the motor with a Holset turbo and said he got approx > 235BHP! Sounds about right. With intercooler, I'm sure. He'd just better keep the mixture right, or he'll need to change a piston or two... those cast 18R pistons are not exactly meant for turbocharging. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 15:04:54 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: More me/mine/mods Got some more very interesting me/mine/mods from some more new, interesting members. Gentlemen, take note: It gives me great pleasure to introduce to the list the first Lady Modder of our 2+ year history (at least to my knowledge.) Read on and provide these new members with some ideas! ...Charles Grosjean > Name: Charles Grosjean > Location: Pasadena, CA > Model: 1991 MR2 Turbo > Engine: 3S-GTE > Mods: Illuminas & springs, HKS Super Powerflow, DynoMax exhaust > Future Work: Ignition upgrade, boost controller, who knows > email: charlesg@touch.caltech.edu ...Markus Poetiray > I'm a new member to your list and am really excited to join your list. > I don't have a toyota now yet, but have a long respect to toyota cars since > I've raced some of them (centuries ago). I had an old Datsun at that > time and quite frequently raced with friends who had corollas. I must say > that I could beat most corollas with 3Ks or 4Ks engine at but got a real > headache to deal with 18RGs or 2TGs ones. > > The reason I'm interested in joining your group is because I want to build > an early corolla right now. I'm interested to 80-82 modes and want to put > in a 4AGE or 4AGZE engine into it. I'm not too concern about the emission > ratio eventhough I lived in California right now because I wanna use it > mainly off-road. I want to learn more about the difficulties, do's and > don'ts, parts combination and other important stuff before really work on > it. So, I'd really appreciate if there's anybody who is willing to share > ideas and experience about this subject. > > As I mentioned before, I have quite a bit experience in working with cars, > but only mainly with old Datsun L-series 4 cyl engines. The recent > experience is that I've done a little trick with my Eagle Talon AWD turbo > engine. However, I don't wanna do too much modifications to this talon > because of several reasons. First, it has an automatic transmission, which the > ability to withstand abuse is not known. Secondly, I still want to retain > the warranty while dealers here are notorious for rejecting warranty to > cars with only slight mods. However, I can't help myself on doing some > wastegate solenoid trick that enable me to get 16 psi of boost now. :-) > > To not bored you any further, here's my other information: > > Name : Markus Poetiray > Location : San Leandro, California > Model : 1991 Eagle Talon TSI Turbo AWD Automatic > Engine : 4G63 (Twin Cam, 16 valve, 2liter, Turbo, Intercooler with Oil > Cooler, automatic transmission with transmission cooler) > Mods : wastegate solenoid trick and K&N > email : Poetma00@usfca.edu ...Bryan Zublin > Name : Bryan Zublin > Location : San Diego, CA, USA > > Model : 1980 Celica GT > Engine : Originally 20R, now 22RET (turbo) > Mods : With the 20R, I had dual Weber DCOE carbs, cam, headers, MSD > 6A ignition. OK performance. > With the 22RET, it is the stock engine block and head, NO turbo, > dual Weber carbs, and headers. Not very fast. Hoping to get the EFI > working and add the turbo. Suspension: Tokico shocks front, KYB rear, > stiffer springs, 15 inch wheels, larger front/rear sway bars. Handles good; > needs higher ratio steering box. > > Model : 1985 MR2 > Engine : Stock. > Mods : Suspension Technics front/rear sway bars, adjustable; Hella > headlights; that's it! > > email : bzublin@gi.com ...Beth Copley > Name: Beth Copley > Location: Burlington, North Carolina, USA > Model: 1992 Paseo > 1985 4x4 SR5 pickup > Engine: Paseo has stock engine, truck has 22RE > Mods: Truck has modified engine (20R block, and a 22R carbureted head > modified to fit my fuel injection.) > email: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 15:11:31 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: More on the 18RG project The 18R block is headed to the machine shop today. Preliminary studying indicates that I'll probably be boring it from the stock 89mm to either 92 or 92.5 mm, depending on which pistons TRD has available. That should move it up to roughly 2200cc's, and probably about 10.5:1 compression. Looks like I'll also have to have the crank turned down a bit due to the scoring, and install oversize bearings. The old TRD manual says that the 18RG is easily modified to produce in excess of 200 hp. DOHHH! Talk about a rush! They also say it can be revved, properly prepared, to 8000 rpm. Man, that thing will be faster than a phone call, wound tigher than a clock, and set to go off like a bomb. (In other words, I'm getting excited!) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 12:22:20 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Supra turbo oiler, part 3, the installation Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com ======================================================================== Note that I am receiving no benefit for the creation and distribution of this information. I have no connections whatsoever with any manufacturers mentioned in these messages. I'm just a happy consumer relating my experiences so that you might benefit. This is neither a commercial, nor an endorsement for any of the products mentioned here. ************************************************************************ * * * IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER!!! * * * * I and my employer (Cadence, for whom I NEVER speak for) disclaim * * any responsibility for any consequences arising from you reading or * * following the suggestions or advice contained in this series of * * messages. I admit no expert knowledge with any aspect of the sub- * * ject material contained herein. This means that YOU, alone, are * * completely responsible for any damages, consequential or otherwise, * * which may occur from performing any modifications to any vehicles. * * YOU have been so warned! * * * ************************************************************************ With that said, let's get on with it.... Last time I described the contents of the "Turbo-Life(tm)" kit. It's been a very long time since I originally installed the kit, so my memory of how long it actually took is very fuzzy. If I had this handy post back then, I'd estimate it to take 4 hours to install this IF you have all the necessary PARTS and TOOLS around. I recall it really took me several days of trial and error messing around with it. Naturally, this post only describes the particular installation applicable to an '87 (and up) Supra. With just the supplied parts, the first thing I did, after carefully reading the instructions and matching up the parts, was to consult the Toyota Supra factory manual to find the location of the turbocharger's oil supply line. It's located on the turbo side of the engine, behind the massive air duct assembly which connects the meter to the compressor. Problem number one is, as always, mapping out where and how everything is to be installed. I needed to connect up all the fittings to the remote filter and switch assembly, and the check-valve, adaptors, etc. to the pump. This allowed me to find where the completed sub-assemblies could fit. This is a real problem in Supras, since there just isn't a whole lot of empty space around the engine compartment, it being stuffed full of high-tech goodies i.e. a glorious 24-valve, twin overhead cam, electronically fuel-injected engine with a water-cooled and air-intercooled turbocharger :). The pressure switches are tee'ed off of the remote oil filter's ports. I currently only use one of the two switches. The unused one is designed to indicate low oil pressure, but you have a factory dash mounted oil pressure gauge which can do that! Removing the engine undercovers revealed a good location to squeeze the main parts into - the space between the front bumper and the body, underneath the right side headlight. The pump assembly just fits into the space there, attached to the back of the bumper. And the remote oil filter assembly can fit further behind along the frame where the front tow-hook is attached. The parts won't interfere with the intercooler hose, and the remote oil filter can be changed without requiring the removal of any of the lines/hoses. Be sure to orient the various fittings according to the projected paths of the oil hoses when checking for proper locations and clearances. And make sure you can reach the pressure setting adjusters for the switches, you'll need to fine-tune them. In my case, I have a K&N filter, sans the factory air box, so there is a large gaping hole for me to route the pressure side oil hose from the remote oil filter to the turbo's supply line. To install the remote filter assembly, I constructed of heavy gage steel a mounting plate for this assembly, which I then bolted to the frame using the aforementioned tow-hook's bolts. It's tilted at a slight rearward angle to allow for necessary clearances. The pump's housing was more difficult, since you have to drill holes into the bumper's High Strength Steel. You might need to use an angle-head drill, and it would also help to use cobalt bits. Using regular HSS bits takes a looong time. I worked on the install from underneath, with most parts in place, but it would probably go faster if you removed the outer bumper fascia and/or headlight unit (difficult?). The pump location allows for it to keep cool, since it is well away from the hot engine and radiator parts. On the other hand, it is more subject to the elements, i.e. rain; more on that aspect later. Once these key large parts have been properly located, comes the task of interconnecting everything up. It is important to have on hand the necessary connection materiels, since the kit includes only some of them. This includes sealing compounds for the NPT connections; I used PTFE plumbing tape. Extra oil drain plug gaskets (2), hose clamps, and additional wiring components such as lug connectors, fuses, electrical tape, silicone, wire ties... There are two types of fittings used for plumbing the oil - NPT (National Pipe Thread) and flare. The NPT fittings are cheaper and less prone to leakage. The flare fittings will allow for tightening a connector without twisting the hose. This means you should have one for each section of oil hose interconnect. I purchased additional flare setups for the oil drain plug area, therefore that one hose has two flare connections. You might find it useful to purchase some plugs while shopping around, they come in handy when you need to disconnect portions of the system. You can find some of these at OSH, but for the connectors I needed to go to a Real automotive parts store. Drain the oil of course, and remove the air flow meter assembly and filter if you haven't already. Plumbing the long supply hose is simple enough. I used sections of heater hose to protect the oil hose where there were any sharp metal contact points, and I tied it all off with nylon wire ties. The check-valve, which prevents backwards oil flow/pressure back into the the pump's output, is installed directly to the pump's output. The valve must be installed upstream from the pressure switches. The check-valve to remote filter oil hose was very short due to the components locations, so I made sure it had sufficient play and didn't have any kinks or other stress points. But then came the part of the install where I had encountered a real problem. When I tried to piggyback the included banjo to the turbo's oil supply line, I found it just didn't fit. The original bolt is a straight design, and the supplied longer one had a shoulder on the non-threaded area. After realizing this incompatibility, I went to Turbo Power to show them the problem, bringing in both sets of parts. The guy there said that the parts they sent would work with Toyota's turbo trucks, and obviously the Supra's version is different. He then found and swapped with me a correct set of parts. Fortunately, this was easy for me to do as they where only a few miles from my workplace; much more satisfying than mail-order. So be forewarned, ask any supplier if they checked if any supplied custom parts do really fit your model car. Armed with the right pieces, I then found it frustrating trying to get this last part on. The turbo oil line is steel and by itself didn't want to line up with the bolt hole. Combined with its metal gaskets and the added banjo parts, this took longer than usual to get this assembly bolted on. With a lot of trial and error, I got the banjo finally on, but the final hose connection wasn't attached. The next part is to fill the engine with oil and then run and prime the pump to test its operation. Once confirmed, the final hose connection to the banjo was made, and the pump turned on again to check for leakage. As the pump runs, you can watch your in-dash oil pressure gauge indicate the build up of pressure... Congratulations, you've completed the hardest parts of the install! The "Turbo-Life(tm)" kit originally came with a small pre-filter setup for the pump. I found this to be an area which caused leaks, and it created too much restriction/air leakage for the inlet. Removing this assembly increased the oil delivery to the engine and reduced the lag time for building up pressure. Sure, maybe the pump's running life will be shortened because of this, but if you keep your oil system clean, there shouldn't be a big problem as according to the pump's manufacturer, it CAN handle some amount of solids. The remote oil filter will remove any nasties from getting to the turbo/engine. Eliminating the supplied pre-filter is recommended. Note: It's possible that newer kits have a better pre-filtering mechanism. A screen strainer is all that would be needed. The supplied part at the time consisted of a (small) modified fuel filter. Although I've had great success with the supplied hose, I'd install some of that fancy style steel braided hoses for greater reliability the next time I need to take it apart. (Recall my earlier warnings.) Going to a larger ID hose for the pump's supply side might also have performance benefits. The last part (not really, more like concurrent) of the installation is hooking up the electrical controls. This part of the installation will be described in the concluding part to this series. ======================================================================== Next part: wiring it up Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather, 159K miles! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 21:25:07 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: TRD: Then and Now. Yes, according to the old TRD manuals, the 18RG can be made into a 2.2. But let's discuss TRD for a moment. I am of the sad but firm opinion that these guys are getting crapier by the day, and may well be on the way out. You mentioned their catalogs, and the fact that you can't get them anymore. That's right, now all they send out is that junky price list. Even when you call them, they don't seem to know what they are talking about. Those of us who remember RJ remember when you could call TRD and get a straight, complete, correct answer to a question. Well, RJ's been gone for, what, a year now? His replacement doesn't have time to talk to you, and doesn't seem to know what he's talking about anyway. And let's talk about products. Can you believe that they don't even carry a header for the 2xR engine? Probably their bread an butter engine, and they don't even carry a header made by someone else! Don't get me wrong. I am still convinced that they are the best place to go for many parts. Unfortunately, they are also just about the ONLY place to go for many specific Toyota parts. You can go to PAECO for some things, but they are more expensive than is conceivable. I talked with Jeff at the Toys Unlimited in North Carolina and he talked about getting J&E Racing Pistons to make him a set of 2xR pistons, custom, for $460. PAECO is even more than that if you get them to make them custom. Ah, but I digress. Let's get back to TRD catalogs. I have 3 versions. The oldest is the book-style version, which I got courtesy of John Lee. (BTW, a public apology to John for taking so long in getting it back. I'll move it higher on the priority list, I promise!) The "book" was somebody at TRD's terrific idea to develop a book-like catalog with a separate chapter for every model and every engine. Fantastic detailed information. Marvelous job. Never completed, to my knowledge, because the chapters on the FX16, Truck/4Runner, Van, 3SG, V-6, and the entire engine prep sections are "missing". Still, a great work. It is my ultimate desire to recreate this in hypertext format so you can browse (or download) it from CyberAuto.Com. The next catalog is the one more of us are familiar with. For lack of a better name, I'll call it the magazine-style version. Basically, a compendium of some of the better information from the book, but greatly lacking the book's detail. Very handy, and a great tool (until you've seen the book-style catalog. The third catalog is the current pamphlet-style version. What a sad effort, considering the fact that they already had all of the infor- mation available from previous versions. This thing is just a list of all of the different parts available for a particular model of Toyota. In other words, if you have two different models of Toyota you get two pamphlets, one for model A and one for model B. I have 'em, but I don't use 'em much. Sorry to go on so long, but it just happens to be an area of great disappointment for me right now. I know some of you might have other insights--let's here it. I know Koji has been dealing with TRD since way before I have, and Clark is right over there near them. Maybe one of them can tell us what's up and whether they think things are going to get any better. Or who might be able to take their place. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 21:28:36 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: More from New Member Beth! Here's some more good info the Beth has sent about herself, and her relationship to the Jeff I mentioned in my previous post. Sounds like an excellent resource for the group. Now, if we can just get him to install an ISDN line to his shop and teach him to write HTML... Chris > From daemon Tue Mar 21 16:00:20 1995 > Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 16:11:58 -0500 > From: "BETH D. COPLEY" > Sender: "BETH D. COPLEY" > Organization: UNC > To: cmyer@cyberauto.com (cmyer) > Subject: ME/MINE/MODS > X-mailer: Connect2-SMTP 3.19.b11D MHS to SMTP Gateway > > I am asking to join this list on behalf of my fiance who doesn't have > access to e-mail. We own and operate Toyz Unlimited, Toyota Paint and > Performance in Burlington, North Carolina in the USA. My fiance's name > is Jeff Williams. He has worked for Toyota dealerships as a technician > for the past 5 years and has just started working for himself full time > because he couldn't keep up with his business on the side and work for > the dealership too. > He has many projects, just about too many for me to remember. But here > goes, > > -I have an 1985 4x4 SR5 pickup that originally had an 22R fuel injected > blown motor. We built the new motor using a 20R block, and a 22R > carbureted head (that had to have major modifications to work with my > fuel injection)! > > -A 1971 Toyota Celica that is in the process of being made into a stock > car to run at our local race track in the mini stock division. > > -A 1971 Toyota Corona that now has a 20R engine and a 5 speed > transmission. > > -A 1977 Toyota Celica that he is getting ready to attempt to equip with a > Toyota V-8 that he just ordered from Japan. > > -A 1973 (or 74) Toyota Celica (I'm not sure of the year or what exactly > has been done to it.) I do know that it has Mikuni carbs on it. They use > this car for Autocrossing. > > He also helps his customers with their modifications. > > I'm certain that I have left out something, but that's all I can remember > right now. > > Jeff is very knowledgable about Toyotas, very enthusiastic about what he > can make them do, and is always interested in learning more and hearing > about what other people are doing. I think we would be good addition to > your list. > > Thanks. > > Beth Copley > Production Assistant, University Registrar's Office > University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill > CB# 2100; 101 Hanes Hall > (919) 962-6093 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 21:35:39 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Stock 18RG HP ratings From the magazine-style TRD manual: 18RG 9.7:1 140hp 18RGR 9.2:1 130hp 18RGRU 9.2:1 125hp 18RGU 8.7:1 120hp 18RGEU 8.3:1 120hp The book style catalog says that the RGU (which I have!) is the best for modifying since it has slightly larger valves and heavier walls in the intake ports, which facilitate porting. (Note that all are aluminum heads, which means you can port the snot out of them and then sand-blast them back to look original to avoid all of those nasty "no porting" rules! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 21:59:47 -0500 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tight Nuts ;-) Joe's post reminded me what the guy at the machine shop said. He said than when a BIG impact wrench doesn't work, he uses a chisel. Claims that he hits it once or twice lightly to make a solid notch, then rears back and hits it a gosh-awful lick. Claims that it isn't so much torque that holds them on as the huge surface area on that wide face of the bolt. Says that one lick with the chisel and you can practically take them the rest of the way off with your fingers. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 19:10:13 -0800 From: Joe Woodsprite To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 18RG status >I had to finally give up on getting the the bolt holding the crank pulley >off. That dude was on there but good. I had a 3 foot piece of sway >bar jammed in the crank to hold it in place, and my 2 foot cheater bar >on the end of the ratchet, and still couldn't get it to budge. I've >tried the impact wrench and the impact driver. I hope the machinist >has something for this. Remind me to tell you about the nut on the end of the excentric shaft of my old rotary sometime... 350lb-ft + locktight according to the specs. Sometimes you want the nuts loose, Woodsprite xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 10:11:14 +0000 From: CAPTAIN CHAOS To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: TRD books Chris, is there any chance you could photocopy the 18RG or 'RA40' chassis pages in the old book for me. I shall be returning home sometime next week, to the toyota, to try get it back on the road (in need of paint) and would like to have a read of some of this more in depth info.., i probably wont be reading my mail for 2-3 weeks or around that time... On the side, we actually have some sun here in the UK for once, so hopefully ill get to spray up my beastie, which is looking a bit sad in primer grey... Andy. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "All good people are weak; they are good because they are not strong enough to be evil." F. Nietzsche ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Chris Myer Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Tight Nuts ;-) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 18:00:22 -0500 From: Doctor Lizardo In message <199503220259.VAA15919@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>you write: >Says that one lick with the chisel and you can practically take them the >rest of the way off with your fingers. 'Tis true. I bought my Supra used, and it came with locking hubs for which the owner had no adapter. You can use the chisel to rotate them. -- Dr. Lizardo http://net-abuse.org/~lizardo/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 15:08:13 EST From: Tim Dziechowski To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: timd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: TRD: Then and Now. > And let's talk about products. Can you believe that they don't even > carry a header for the 2xR engine? Probably their bread an butter > engine, and they don't even carry a header made by someone else! I find that the stuff TRD sent me for the 22RE is a convenient size, shape, and thickness to serve as a bookmark in my Downey catalog. Downey/NWOR both have 2xR headers, but you probably aren't looking for a truck header. timd@hitu.enet.dec.com (Tim Dziechowski - '92 4x4 pickup 22re Borla + K&N) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 14:27:35 -0700 (MST) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: More Spring Questions To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Please respond to me personally and I will summarize, as I have cross-posted this to 3 lists. I have a couple more questions before I actually go and buy a set of springs. 1. Does anyone know how to convert the metric spring rates as quoted by TRD into imperial units (so that I can compare different manufacturer's spring rates)? 2. Eibach indicated to me that the reason their springs do not lower the car all that much, is that any lower than 1" would really mess up the suspension geometry and would make the car even _more_ likely to spin (their 'street' springs lower the rear by 0.75" and their 'race' springs only lower the rear by less than that). Yet TRD springs lower it over an inch. Any comments? Lance. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ | Lance Heinrich, P.Eng. Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | | SAGE Systems Division | | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | Telephone: (403) 253-8848 | | 1991 MR2 Turbo Fax: (403) 259-2926 | | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged | +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 13:36:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Quick ratio steering box for 1980 Celica To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" This is my first posting on the Toyota-mods group. Does anyone know where I can buy a quick ratio steering box for my 1980 Celica? It does not have power steering, is left hand drive (US), and is NOT rack and pinion. I know that TRD listed one in their catalog quite a few years ago (around $300), but have not offered it since. Has anyone heard of modifying the stock unit to increase the steering ratio? Reliability / safety would be a priority. Any help would be appreciated. Bryan Zublin General Instrument, San Diego, CA, USA bzublin@gi.com 1980 Celica GT 1985 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Aaron Buhr" Subject: Re: Supra Turbos To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 19:19:23 -0500 (EST) Cc: peymaan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, > I wanted to let you know that you CAN have a very fast Supra turbo. > There are many modifications available for the car at reasonable > prices. I have several friends that have very quick supras with only > around $700.00 worth of mods. You can get 290-300 horsepower for that > little money. Of course you can't beat the car's reliabilty and > refinement either. I would definitely go for a clean one to start > with, so that it will hold up well. I own an 87 turbo that I have > poured money into and wish I would have started with an 89 or newer. > anyway, I am still very happy. I have fully upgraded the body and > paint to a '91 model. It has new nose, rear lights, spoiler, new dash, > everything. Looks like a 91 or 92. It has full S/T and HKS suspension, > 17" wheels w 245-40 zr 17 tires. Engine is full HKS stage VII plus > other mods. It has over 530 horsepower (reliable). The last car I beat > in a race was a ZR-1 corvette, with the guy being in total disbelief. > My car is fast, fast, fast. I love it, and I think the Supra is a > great used car. Get a clean one, I think you will be very happy. Wow! Tell us more! I've got a '90 Turbo to which I've done some mods (HKS exhaust, K&N air filter, HKS Variable Boost Control, Turbonetics-modified turbo) that is fast now, but not fast enough. I hate having to duck and meekly back down when a new Camaro Z28 or Firebird Formula pulls up next to me! They are all over the dang place here in Florida. I haven't actually challenged one yet, but I have a feeling their 325lb-ft of torque at 2000 rpm are going to beat my 315 (est.) at 4000, though quarter-mile results would be closer. My goal is 400+ hp, which should make me able to hold my head high again. :) Monday I'm going in to have 240 watts of audio power put in, but that's another story. Some of the things I have in mind for performance mods for the near future are: HKS peak hold boost gauge $120 HKS poppet waste gate (vs. stock swing-type) $275 Spearco Intercooler $700 I've got 55K miles on the car now. I figure sometime in the next 10K miles I'll get the timing belt changed, and at the same time get the head gasket replaced with an HKS metal one (same size as stock). Then I'll be ready to crank the boost up a few more notches. Since I'm still using the stock boost gauge I can't tell how much I'm currently running, but I'll guesstimate it at 10-12 psi. BTW, for the folks on the Toyota mods list, I forgot to tell you all about another guy here in Gainesvile I met who also has a modded Supra Turbo. His looks identical to mine. He has an '89 white targa Supra Turbo. He's really thrown out the book on how to properly go about increasing performance. So far all he's done are: 1) Switch to an HKS Powerflow intake system 2) Put a T(!!!) in line with the wastegate pressure line. To explain more fully, one of the pipes on the T just vents to the engine bay. It is effectively a wastegate bleeder valve with no adjustability! 3) Put on just the HKS Fuel Cut Defenser, no auxiliary fuel computers or control systems whatsoever. 4) Added an aftermarket boost gauge. 5) He blew his head gasket and had to have it replaced, though I don't know what with. But he's using the stock exhaust, stock intercooler, stock turbo, stock fuel computer, stock injectors, etc., and a T in the wastegate pressure line, and running 15 PSI of boost! I'm amazed, but apparently he's been getting away with it. He certainly surprised me. He was two cars ahead of me at a light, and when I came around I pulled up next to him to check out his car. "Looks good, just like mine :)" I thought. "I guess I'll floor it and surprise him a bit. :)" thinking his was stock. He kept right up with me! We pulled over a bit later and he showed me the time slips from his forays at the Gainesville Raceway. His best was 14.3 at 95.5, faster than my 14.47 @ 97.7 but slower too. He had apparently gone 6 or so times though. That fact I also found amusing. Here I thought I was the only person to take a foreign, much less Japanese car, to the Gainesville Raceway amid all the redneck Mustangs, Camaros, etc., and here's a guy with a car that looks absolutely identical to mine going too, on different days! I thought that was pretty funny. Probably confused the regulars. :) Well, that's all for now. Dave please let us in on what you now about making Supras into ZR1 eaters. :) Aaron B. abuhr@eng.ufl.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 16:29:21 -0800 (PST) From: Clark Wallace To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Latest Suppliers/Publications Listing Toy-Mods Suppliers and Publications List. - This thing was long overdue for a redistribution - apologies. - Currently a Work-in-Progress so some info is missing. - Send comments, revisions, complaints, & additions to: clark_wallace@cpqm.saic.com Last Revised: 3/24/95 ________________________________________________________________________________ _I_N_D_E_X_ A & A Specialties (Miscellaneous) ADDCO (Suspension) AEM (Performance Parts) Arias (Pistons) Aurora Bearing Company (Miscellaneous) AutoThority (Miscellaneous) Bilstein Corporation of America (Suspension) Borla Performance Industries (Exhausts) Brown's Toyota City (Wholesale Parts) Cannon (Intake manifolds) Carrera Racing Shocks (Suspension) Carrillo (Pistons) Childs & Albert Performance Products (Pistons) Chris Myer Racing (Performance Parts) Cosworth Engine Components (Pistons) Crane Cams (Cams) CRE (Drivetrain) Custom Parts (Performance Parts) D & T Used Parts (Used Parts) Dobi (Performance Parts) Doug Thorley (Exhausts) Downey Offroad (Performance Parts) Earl Motorsports (Performance Parts) Edlebrock (Intake manifolds) Eibach Springs (Suspension) Electromotive Inc (Miscellaneous) Energy Suspension (Suspension) Fast Freddy's (Performance Parts) FELPRO (Miscellaneous) Flowmaster (Exhausts) Garretson Enterprises (Cams) GReddy Performance Products (Performance Parts) Griot's Garage (Tools / Restoration / Stuff) HALTECH (Performance Parts) Han Motoring Accessories (Performance Parts) Hayes Wheels (Miscellaneous) Hedman Headers (Exhausts) HELLA (Miscellaneous) HKS (Performance Parts) Holley (Carbs) Hooker Headers (Exhausts) Horgen Engineering (Performance Parts) IDEAL (Miscellaneous) IFG Turbo Systems Inc (Turbos) IMC (Miscellaneous) Installations Unlimited (Miscellaneous) Isky Cams (Cams) J & M Speed Center (Performance Parts) J.C. Whitney (Performance Parts) Jackson Autosport (Performance Parts) JE Pistons (Pistons) Jim Cook Racing (Performance Parts) K & N Engineering (Filters) Kennedy Engineered Products (Drivetrain) King Motorsports (Performance Parts) KMA Racing (Performance Parts) Koni America, Inc. (Suspension) KYB Corporation of America (Suspension) L.C. Engineering (Performance Parts) Lou Fusz Toyota (Wholesale Parts) Marren Motor Sports (Miscellaneous) Mikuni (Carbs) NGK (Miscellaneous) Northern (Tools / Restoration / Stuff) Northwest Off-Road (Performance Parts) Offenhauser (Intake manifolds) Options Auto Salon (Performance Parts) OTC Tools & Equipment Division (Tools / Restoration / Stuff) Pacific (Performance Parts) PAECO Import Parts (Performance Parts) Paisley Automotive (Performance Parts) Perfection Automotive Products Corp (Catalytics) Performance Products (Performance Parts) PIVCO (Tools / Restoration / Stuff) Price Toyota Newark (Wholesale Parts) Pro Glass Inc (Miscellaneous) PROBE Industries (Pistons) R S Akimoto (Performance Parts) Red Line Synthetic Oil Corp (Miscellaneous) Robert Bosch (Miscellaneous) Russell Toyota Parts (Wholesale Parts) S & S Headers (Exhausts) Sarizer Motor Company (Performance Parts) Select Sales (Performance Parts) Spearco (Turbos) Summit Racing Equipment (Performance Parts) SuperTrapp (Exhausts) Suspension Spring Specialists (Suspension) Suspension Techniques (Suspension) Suspension Technologies (Suspension) SWEPCO (Miscellaneous) System One (Filters) TA Performance (Performance Parts) Tallant Brothers (Used Parts) Team Toysport America, LTD (Performance Parts) Tested Products Inc. (Catalytics) The Eastwood Co. (Tools / Restoration / Stuff) The Toyota Connection (Used Parts) Tire Rack (Miscellaneous) Tokico USA, Inc. (Suspension) Toyota Customer Assistance Center (Miscellaneous) Toyota Racing Development (TRD Japan) (Performance Parts) Toyota Racing Development (TRD USA) (Performance Parts) Toyota Truck & Auto Recycling (Used Parts) Toyotas Only (Used Parts) Trans-Dapt (Performance Parts) TRS USA (Performance Parts) Turbo Performance Center (Performance Parts) Turbonetics Inc. (Performance Parts) Web Cam (Cams) Weber (Carbs) WISECO (Pistons) ________________________________________________________________________________ _N_E_W_P_A_R_T_S_ Brown's Toyota City 7167 Ritchie Hwy Glen Burnie, MD 21061 (800) 848-4451 Genuine Toyota Parts. Lou Fusz Toyota 10725 Manchester Rd St. Louis, Missouri 63122 (800) 325-9581 Toyota parts only, no more TRD and HKS. Price Toyota Newark 1344 Marrows Rd Newark, DE 19711 (800) 537-4510 Genuine Toyota Parts. Russell Toyota Parts 6700 Baltimore National Pike Baltimore, MD 21228 (800) 638-8401 Talk to Howard. _U_S_E_D__P_A_R_T_S__&__S_A_L_V_A_G_E__Y_A_R_D_S_ Tallant Brothers 4695 Oak Grove Circle Cumming, GA 30130 (800) 635-0351 / (404) 887-5214 Toyota/Honda/Nissan Salvage. Ship big and small parts. Specialize in late models - 90's and up. Not self-service. Seem like nice, helpful folks. Owners are Jimmy or Greg. Toyota Truck & Auto Recycling 3636 Omac Circle Rancho Cordova, CA 95742 (800) 765-7100 Late models - 79 and up, ship nationwide, big and small parts. Talk to Al. The Toyota Connection 2620 W. Capital Ave West Sacramento, CA (800) 221-8696 / (916) 371-7764 Talk to Ryan. Some parts require an exchange. Toyotas Only 11540 Hart St N. Hollywood, CA 91605 (818) 765-0322 / (818) 765-0323 Seemed high priced, and not too helpful either. D & T Used Parts 8970 Bradley Ave Sun Valley, CA (818) 768-4666 Datsuns and Toyotas. Good prices, helpful (79-80 Supra rear-ends for $150 US) Lexington, Ky (606) 233-1173 _P_U_B_L_I_C_A_T_I_O_N_S__&__B_O_O_K_S_ "Bodywork and Painting" Peterson Publishing Co. 6420 Wilshire Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90048-5515 (213) 782-2280 Tools, techniques, and tips. Cars and Car Conversions $5.25 CDN (1993) Monthly magazine covering a spectrum of topics including Formula 1 aerodynamics, do it yourself head porting mods, timing, and aftermarket EFI. Classic Motorbooks P.O. Box / RT014 Osceola, WI 54020 (800) 826-6600 THE SOURCE for automotive books and tapes, including the Toyota Performance Handbook. Free catalog. "How to Keep Your Toyota Pickup Alive" by Larry Owens John Muir Publications 1975-1987 2 & 4WDs "How to Make Your Car Handle" by Fred Puhn Available from Classic Motorbooks. $14.95 US Describes how the pros improve handling, safety, and performance. Tells how to check chassis, suspension, and alignment set-up. Grassroots Motorsports P.O Box 5907, Daytona Beach, FL 32118 Online compsurve address is: 72123,2625 $3.95 US, $4.95 CDN Monthly magazine whose main subject is auto-crossing. "Paint and Body Handbook" by Don Taylor and Larry Hofer HP Books P.O. Box 5367, Tucson, AZ 85703 (602) 888-2150 Tools, techniques, and tips on auto body repair work and painting. Robert Bentley, Inc. 1000 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138 (800) 423-4595 Early model Toyota repair manuals. "Toyota Performance Handbook" by Pat Braden Motorbooks International Publishers & Wholesalers 1990, ISBN 0-87938-320-8 (160pp, B&W photos) $18.95 US How to choose, install, tune, and maintain performance equipment for your Toyota. "I felt that this book was more inclined towards mechanical stuff and didn't say much about electrical stuff available (ie. aftermarket computers, etc) although some of this is quite new". - Fred "Hey, I Finally Sold Those Wheels" Oberbuchner Toyota Service Publications P.O. Box 2991 Torrance, CA 90509-2991 (800) 443-7656 (CA) / (800) 622-2033 Official Toyota service manuals. Get'm, read'm, use'm. Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance 9952 Hamilton Avenue, Huntington Beach, CA 92646 (714) 962-7795 / (714)965-2268 FAX $3.95 US, $4.50 CDN Monthly magazine featuring turbos and electronics. "This magazine seems to have good coverage of turbo applications and also covers issues such as electronics/EFI/computers, etc. Excellent coverage and advertising for parts for overseas imports. Good balance between expert techies and lay-people". - Fred Oberbuchner _P_E_R_F_O_R_M_A_N_C_E__P_A_R_T_S__S_U_P_P_L_I_E_R_S_ AEM (Advanced Engine Management) 15606 Broadway Center Gardena, CA 90248 (310) 327-9336 / (310) 327-8520 FAX Mikuni, Weber, Isky, Electromotive, MSD, Motec, Accel, Bosch, EFI components, HKS, TRD, etc. Extremely helpful and informed folks. Talk to Steve. Cyberspace Automotive Performance Web: WWW.CyberAuto.Com FTP: TBA Gopher: TBA Automated Email: TBA cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (407) 725-8742 (Watch for new phone number in approx 10 days.) 1496 Hyacinth ST NE Palm Bay, FL 32907 Features great prices on: Tokico, K&N, Auto Meter, Energy Suspensions, Crane, Competition and More. Your low-cost provider for virtually _any_ high performance manufacturer. Don't buy anything until you check prices here. Custom Parts 2400 South May Ave., Oklahoma City, OK 73108 (800) 654-4790 / (405) 682-4435 Carry the top names in motor accessories. Dobi 320 Thor, Brea, CA 92621 (714) 529-1977 Exhausts, ignition components, KYB inserts, suspensions, aero-components. Apparently have relatively good prices. "Catalog is $2, but minimum charge is $5 - so ya gotta mail them the $2" (Chris "Racer Boy" Myer). Downey Offroad 10001 S. Pioneer Blvd, Sante Fe Springs, CA 90670 (310) 949-9494 Toyota 4WD specialists. Earl Motorsports England 0625-43377346 Performance parts and accessories. Inexpensive cams for Toyotas (like the 4AGE). Talk to Gary. Fast Freddy's 2604 S. Harbor, Santa Ana, CA 92704 (714) 540-3801 Generic performance shop. Claims to be the "King of Webers". No catalog, advertise in VW, Truckin, Mini-Truckin. Talk to Roger or John. GReddy Performance Products 15-B Masine , Irvine, CA 92718 or 238 South Main St, South Hackensack, NJ 07606 (800) GREDDY2 / (714) 588-8300 / (714) 588-6318 FAX Part of the Trust Company(Japan). Intercoolers and intercooler kits, induction systems, strut tower braces, progressive rate springs, adjustable shocks, turbo upgrade kits, stainless steel lines, stainless steel headers, turbos, waste- gates, injection systems, "ultra" high-performance exhaust systems, complete turbo systems for normally aspirated vehicles, turbo timers with stop watches. "Weak catalog, but they seem to have a lot of stuff" (Chris "Side-Draft" Myer). HKS 20312 Gramercy Place, Torrance, CA 90501 (310) 328-8100 / (310) 618-6911 FAX High performance parts for Toyota, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Nissan, Acura, and Honda. Catalogs $6.00. HALTECH 2158 W. Northwest Hwy #400, Dallas, TX 75220 (214) 831-9800 / (214) 831-9802 Engine management systems. Programmable fuel injection. Generic EFI system ($1500) with no airflow meter for the Corolla. Han Motoring Accessories Main Head Quarters, 2034 Valley Blvd, Alhambra, CA 91803 (818) 281-9273 / (818) 281-2152 FAX More of a speed shop kinda place. No catalog. Horgen Engineering 6454 SE Monroe, Milwaukee, OR 97222 (503) 654-5295 (Voice Mail (?!) Borla, HKS, K&N, Extrudehone, G-Force, Centerforce. J.C. Whitney 1917-19 Archer Ave, P.O. Box 8410, Chicago, IL 60680 (312) 431-6102 / (312) 431-5625 FAX You'll have to separate the wheat from the chafe, but they do have some REAL bargains. ADDCO sway bars, ThermoTec header tape, Borla mufflers, etc. Free catalog. J & M Speed Center 3230 Motor Circle Dr, Riverside, CA 92504 (909) 688-7110 Performance parts shop (Offenhauser, Doug Thorley) with GREAT prices. More of a warehouse. Talk to Phil, Dennis. No catalog. Jackson Autosport Manitoba, Canada (204) 235-1123 Generic performance shop. Good prices on K&N air filters. No catalog. Jim Cook Racing (JCR) 5450 Katella Ave #107, Los Alamitos, CA 90720 (310) 431-4605 / (310) 430-1402 Toyota (also Honda/Mazda/Nissan) performance accessories, aero kits, exhausts, cams, headers, turbos, V8 conversions (Nissan), pistons, turbos, suspensions, springs, shocks (Tokico). Catalogs $6. Talk to Kevin. King Motorsports Sullivan, WI Mugen, Stromung, HKS, Trust exhausts. DC Fabrication headers. Some folks recommend against purchasing their rebuilt parts (like heads). KMA Racing 1250 N. King Street, Honolulu, HI 96817 (808) 841-2747 Suppliers of performance parts and accessories from Japan such as Sprinter tail lights for the Corolla GTS's and GEB adjustable universal strut tower bars for ANY car. Contact Scott Kanemura or Kevin Yamasaki. Scott has worked for both TRD and HKS. Mention you know Koji Kam and they'll hang up on ya! L.C. Engineering 2978 First St. Unit G, La Verne, CA 91750 (714) 596-5494 20R, 22R and 22RE performance parts and engines. Focus is Toyota trucks, but most parts are applicable to comparably equipped Celicas. Pricey. Catalogs $5.00. Talk to Randy. Northwest Off-Road 1999 Iowa St., Bellingham, WA 98226-4788 (206) 676-1200 / (206) 676-5401 FAX Performance parts and accessories for Toyota trucks. Tons of stuff - Mikuni, Holley, Offenhauser, Doug Thorley headers, cams, suspensions, lights, exhaust systems. Catalogs $5.00. Talk to Jeff. Options Auto Salon 4523 San Fernando Rd, Ste I, Glendale, CA 91204 (800) 678-2886 Order / (818) 545-8218 Tech / (818) 545-8651 FAX Accessories and performance products for Japanese Imports. Trust, GAB, Neuspeed, Car Mate and on and on and on . . . Catalogs $5.00. Pacific 5882 Machine Drive, Huntington Beach, CA 92649 (714) 891-3669 Ground effect kits, rear spoilers, fender trim, headlight covers, blackout kits, custom wheels, suspension packages, and more!!! Free catalog. PAECO Import Parts 2400 Mountain Dr, Birmingham, AL 35226 (800) 326-6401 / (205) 823-7278 Wide variety of parts and services for imported cars. Just about anything you need if you're willing to pay the price. "I love their stuff" - Ben Reamed. Free catalog. Paisley Automotive 302 Main St, Hempstead, NY 11550 (516) 481-2815 Order (516) 481-4526 Serv / (516) 292-2341 FAX HKS, Trust, Redline synthetics, NOS, Extrudehone Powerflow systems, GReddy, C's (short throw shifters supposed to be decent). No catalog. Performance Products 7658 Haskell Ave, Van Nuys, CA 91406 (800) 553-2840 Accessories and performance parts for Toyota trucks, Land Cruisers, 4-Runners and T100s. Free catalog. R S Akimoto Upland, CA (909) 985-2383/FAX (909) 985-0062. - Thanks Geoff! Bolt on stuff for Hondas, Acuras, and Toyotas. Air filters, intake runners, SS cat-back exhausts, mufflers, VTEC controllers, brake pads, brakes systems, intercoolers, boost controllers. No catalogs yet. Talk to Rich. Sarizer Motor Company (formerly the Toy Store East) 453 Van Houten Ave, Passaic, NJ 07055 (201) 473-2446 / (201) 473-2570 FAX Complete line of performance parts for your Toyota. Cover Craft, HKS, ANSA, Weds Wheels, Tokico, Suspension Techniques, TRD, Doug Thorley. Free catalog. Talk to John. Select Sales 5411 N.W. 72 Ave, Miami, FL 33166 (305) 888-2828 Complete line of performance parts for Toyotas including big valve heads for the 4AGE, Weber/Mikuni carbs, Wiseco pistons. Excellent prices. Summit Racing Equipment P.O. Box 909, Akron, OH 44309 (216) 630-0200 Order / (216) 630-0240 Tech Huge performance parts and accessories supplier - American and foreign. Catalogs $4.00. TA Performance 220 Skoals Ave, Clifton, NJ 07012 (201) 773-4200 Carry Trust & other performance parts. Catalogs $4.00. Team Toysport America, LTD 1547 W. El Segundo Blvd., Gardena, CA 90249 (213) 755-1177 / (213) 755-1176 FAX Turbo & twin cam specialists, sports tuning, service, and fabrication. Carry a wide variety of performance parts and accessories. Mail in $2 for postageg along with make/model/year of vehicle for catalog. Toyota Racing Development (TRD USA) 18240 S Western Ave, Gardena, CA 90248 (310) 532-1232 / (310) 532-3973 FAX Cams, pistons, plug wires, suspension components, LSDs, springs, brake pads, headers, clutches. "TRD don't know their butt from a hole in the ground" (Chris "Barney hater" Myer. Toyota Racing Development (TRD Japan) 800 Morooka-machi, Kohoku-ku, Yokahama 222 Japan 81-45-543-5639 / 81-45-543-8623 FAX Contact: T. ISHIBASHI Trans-Dapt 9599 West Jefferson Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232 (310) 839-7581 Carb adapters (for carb upgrades), air filters, breathers, oil filter relocation kits, spark plug wire dividers, in-line fuel filters, wheel adapters, Hedman headers (not smog legal). Catalogs $4.00. Ask for Brian. TRS USA 7901 Ethel Ave., N. Hollywood, CA 91605 (818) 765-5542 / (818) 764-1051 FAX Suppliers of Corolla & Starlet parts (4AG & 3-4-5K). TRS coilover kits, TRD hard bushings, European body parts, LSD 5.1 & 5.38 gears, TRD springs & shocks, Euro headers & exhausts, TRS metallic clutch discs, 6x14 aluminium wheels, and T50 & K50 C-R gear sets. Turbonetics Inc. 650 Flinn Ave, Moonpark, CA 93021 (805) 529-8995 Carry upgraded eproms for the PFC F-Con. Known to work on Supra Turbo's. Turbo Performance Center (TPC) 7423 Ritchie Hwy, Glen Burnie, MD 21061 Phone # ?????? Carry high performance and related stuff such as Extrudehone, CARTECH, Suspension Techniques, Vortech, HKS). Should have parts for the Japan super cars such as the 3000GT, RX7 Turbo II, 300ZX, and Supra. _C_A_M_S_ Crane Cams 530 Fentress Blvd, Daytona Beach, FL 32114 (904) 258-6174 Cams, cams, cams. Tech line is tough to get through on, but keep trying. Garretson Enterprises 1932 Old Middlefield Way, Mountain View, CA 94087 Performance cams. Isky Cams 16020 S. Broadway Box 30, Gardena, CA 90247-9990 (213) 770-0930 / (310) 515-5730 Cams and springs. Web Cam 1815 Massachusetts Ave, Riverside, CA 92507 (909) 369-5144 / (909) 369-7266 FAX Performance camshafts. _C_A_R_B_S_ Holley P.O. Box 10360, Bowling Green, KY 42101 (900) 773-7300 - 89 cents a minute info line. Carbs and pro-jection sytems. Mikuni 8910 Mikuni Ave, Northridge, CA 91324-3496 (818) 885-1242 / (818) 993-7388 Simply the best (so they say). Ask Chris M. what he'd pass up for a dual 44 side-draft. Free catalog. Weber Anybody, anybody . . .? _C_A_T_A_L_Y_T_I_C__C_O_N_V_E_R_T_E_R_S_ Perfection Automotive Products Corp. 31623 Industrial Dr, Livonie, MI 48150 (800) 468-4970 Tech / (800) 521-5575 Serv After market catalytic converters for most cars. Talk to Paul or Terry. They can give you applications info and locate the nearest supplier. Tested Products Inc. 24540 Capitol Ave, Redford Township, MI 48239 (800) 327-6481 / (313) 533-2833 America's largest re-manufacturer of catalytic converters. _D_R_I_V_E_T_R_A_I_N_ CRE RT. 122 Worcester Rd., Barre, MA 01005 (508) 355-2864 They make limited slip differentials for the more popular cars. They will even make one if you send them an old diff. Costs between $500 to $550. Kennedy Engineered Products 38830 17th East, Palmdale, CA 93550 (805) 272-1147 Suppliers of bellhousing, transmission, and drive shaft adapters. Manufacture an adapter plate for mounting the bellhousing of a VW/Porsche gear box to a S-GTE block. They also do custom applications. _E_X_H_A_U_S_T_S_ Borla Performance Industries 5901 Edison Ave, Oxnard, CA 93033 (805) 986-8600 / (805) 986-8999 FAX T304 Stainless Steel headers, exhaust systems, turbo and hemi mufflers, and exhaust tips. Talk to Ed. Doug Thorley 1561 Commerce St, Corona, CA 91720 (909) 735-7280 Tri-Y headers. Talk to Tom. Flowmaster (800) 544-4761 Mufflers (glasspacks). Talk to Bob Hedman Headers 9599 West Jefferson Blvd, Culver City, CA 90231 Headers with no smog fittings. Hooker Headers 1024 W. Brooks St., Ontario, CA 91762 Headers. S & S Headers Los Angeles, CA They apparently manufacture headers for some of the larger suppliers such as Jackson Racing. SuperTrapp 3910 Seaport Blvd, West Sacramento, CA 95691 (916) 372-5000 "If it doesn't say SuperTrapp, then it isn't" - unknown. Catalogs $3.00. _F_I_L_T_E_R_S_ K & N Engineering P.O. Box 1329, Riverside, CA 92502 (800) 858-3333 Million mile air and oil filters. Catalogs $3.00. System One 6080 Leonard Noell Dr., Tulare, CA 93274 (209) 687-1955 Performance oil filters. _I_N_T_A_K_E__M_A_N_I_F_O_L_D_S_ Cannon Intake manifolds. Edlebrock 2700 California St, Torrance, CA 90503 Intake manifolds, cams, carbs, headers, exhaust systems, mufflers, heads, and air cleaners. Catalogs $3.00 Offenhauser 5300 Alhambra Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90032 (213) 225-1307 "Dual Plenum" intake manifolds for carb'd Toyota engines - pure hype if you ask me. (talk to Vince) _P_I_S_T_O_N_S_/ _R_O_D_S_/_C_R_A_N_K_S_ Arias Carrillo Rods. Childs & Albert Performance Products 24849 Anza Dr, Valencia, CA 91355 (805) 295-1900 / (805) 295-1905 Rods and zero gap piston rings. Catalogs $5.00. Cosworth Engine Components 23205 Early Ave, Torrance, CA 90505 Custom racing pistons. JE Pistons 15681 Computer Ln, Huntington Beach, CA 92649 (714) 898-9763 Custom performance pistons. PROBE Industries 42257 6th St West-307, Lancaster, CA 93534 (805) 945-3363 / (805) 945-4703 FAX Custom performance pistons and rods. Free catalog. WISECO 7201 Industrial Park Blvd, Mentor, OH 44060-5396 (216) 951-6600 Forged pistons, lots of applications. Could they be the source for TRD??? _S_U_S_P_E_N_S_I_O_N_ ADDCO 700 East St, Lake Park, FL 33403 (800) 338-7015 / (407) 842-6102 High performance sway bars. They make them for the cops, so they must be good. You can get ADDCO bars from J.C. Whitney for half the price ADDCO charges. Free catalog. Bilstein Corporation of America 8845 Rehco, San Diego, CA 92121 (619) 453-7723 Gas pressure shocks. Carrera Racing Shocks 5412 New Peachtree Rd, Atlanta, GA 30341 (404) 451-8811 Tech / (800) 722-3448 Order / (404) 451-8086 FAX Shocks and springs. Claim they wrote the book on coil overs. Offer good spring and weight ratios. Ask for their booklet. Eibach Springs 15311 Barranca Pkwy, Irvine, CA 92718 (714) 727-3700 Springs (progressive-rate), bushings, anti-sway bars. Nothing until '82 for Celicas. Energy Suspension 960 Calle Amanecer, San Clemente, CA 92672 (714) 361-3935 / (714) 361-3940 FAX Performance polyurethane components. Catalogs $5.00 Koni America, Inc. 8085 Production Ave, Florence, KY 41042 (606) 727-5038 4-position adjustable high pressure shocks. KYB Corporation of America 901 Oak Creek Dr, Lombard, IL 60148 Shocks. Suspension Spring Specialists P.O. Box 145, Bremen, IN 46506 (800) 323-7419 / (219) 546-4725 FAX "Blue Coil" springs. Do not carry Toyota-specific springs, but if you know what rate/height you need, they might have something that will work. Also, offer custom springs. Suspension Techniques 13546 Vintage Pl, Chino, CA 91710 Suspension kits, springs, bushings, anit-roll bars, and shocks. Suspension Technologies 1853 Belcroft Ave, South El Monte, CA 91733 (909) 465-1020 Springs and suspension parts. Tokico USA, Inc. 1330 Storm Parkway, Torrance, CA 90501-5041 (310) 534-4934 Performance gas shock absorbers, truck shocks, five position externally adjustable Illuminas, electronic Illuminas. Free brochure. _T_O_O_L_S_/_R_E_S_T_O_R_A_T_I_O_N_/_S_T_U_F_F_ The Eastwood Co. 580 Lancaster Ave., Box 3014, Malvern, PA 19355-0714 (800) 345-1178 Restoration supplies. Free catalog. Talk to Kevin. Griot's Garage 3500-A 20th St E., Tacoma, WA 98424 (800) 345-5789 Products for you garage (top end stuff). Free catalog. Northern P.O. Box 1499, Burnsville, MN 55337-0499 (800) 533-5545 / (612) 894-0083 Tools and restoration supplies. Free catalog. OTC Tools & Equipment Division 655 Eisenhowser Dr., Owatonna, MN 55060 (507) 455-7050 / (800) 283-8665 Source of Toyota SST's. PIVCO 1801 N. Green River Rd., Evansville, IN 47715 (812) 479-3525 Automotive restoration supplies. Free catalog. _T_U_R_B_O_S_ IFG Turbo Systems Inc. 15740 El Prado Rd, Chino, CA 91710 (909) 597-4110 / (909) 597-7183 FAX Bolt on turbo kits (not sure if they carry for Toyotas). Spearco 14664 Titus St, Panorama City, CA 91402 (818) 901-7851 / (818) 785-4362 FAX Intercoolers and stuff. _M_I_S_C_E_L_A_N_E_O_U_S_ A & A Specialties 220 E. Santa Fe Ave, Placentia, CA 92670-5631 (714) 993-6770 Race car bodies. Aurora Bearing Company 970 S. Lake St., Aurora, IL 60506 (708) 859-2030 / (708) 859-0971 Specially designed rod ends and linkages. Talk to John McCory. AutoThority 3769-B Pickett Rd, Fairfax, VA 22031 (703) 323-0919 / (703) 323-7325 Performance chips. Electromotive Inc. 14004-J Willard Rd, Chantilly, VA 22021 (703) 378-2444 / (800) 843-3889 Many accessories for ignition/fuel management systems, including air/fuel sensors and exhaust gas sensors. Ask for a free brochure. FELPRO 7450 N. McCormick Blvd., P.O. Box 1103, Skokie, IL 60076-8103 (708) 674-7700 / (708) 674-0151 FAX Gaskets, gaskets, gaskets. Hayes Wheels 38481 Huron River Dr, Romulus, MI 48174 (313) 941-2000 Passenger car and light truck replacement wheels. HELLA 201 Kelly Dr, Peachtree City, GA 30269 (800) 247-5924 Halogen head lamps. Call for free brochure. Catalog $3.00. IDEAL (Stant Corporation) 3200 Parker Dr, St. Augustine, FL 32095-0897 (800) 221-0100 / (904) 829-1000 Stainless steel hose clamps. IMC 5455 N.W. 72nd Ave, Miami, FL 33166 (800)321-3201 / (407)887-3347 FOHA spoilers. Installations Unlimited 405 East Gardena Blvd, Carson, CA (310) 327-8143 Speakers Marren Motor Sports 412 Roosevelt Dr, Derby, CT 06418 (203) 732-4565 / (203) 734-2629 FAX Fuel injectors, injector balancing, & programmable fuel management systems. NGK 8 Whatney, Irvine, CA 92718 (714) 855-8278 Spark plugs. Pro Glass Inc. 1612 Landmeier Rd, Elk Grove Village, IL 60007-2463 (708) 952-0135 Lexan racing windows. Red Line Synthetic Oil Corp 3450 Pacheco Blvd, Martinez, CA 94553 (510) 228-7576 / (800) 624-7958 Synthetic oils and lubes. Free literature. Robert Bosch Broadview, IL (708) 865-5200 Bosch products. SWEPCO 117 H St, San Rafael, CA 94901 (415) 454-1698 High grade tranny lube. John Svabenik - local distributor. Tire Rack 771 W. Chippewa Ave, South Bend, IN 46614 (800) 428-8355 / (219) 287-2345 / (219) 236-7707 FAX Discount prices on large selection of tires and wheels. Good advice on what you can and can't do also. Toyota Customer Assistance Center 19001 S. Western Ave, P.O. Box 2991, Torrance, CA 90509-2991 (800) 331-4331 ______________________________________________________________________________ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Aaron Buhr" Subject: Re: ZR1 eater To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 07:27:53 -0500 (EST) Cc: peymaan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, > > Monday I'm going in to have 240 watts of audio power put in, but that's > > another story. > > What are you getting? and where are they putting it? I can never find > enough room in mine for all the accessories. I had to pay a ridiculous > amount of money for a rare wood to build my two subwoofer boxes with > because I wanted them light, adding weight to the car is always a > concern of mine. I know a guy that has 6 12" subs in his, and has > probably added 400 pounds of weight, and wonders why he loses to > non-turbo 300ZXs. They put in a Precision Power 4x60 watt amp in the stock position (underneath the passenger seat), 4 Boston Acoustic CX4e 4" speakers in the stock locations, and a 6.5" Bazooka tube strapped down in the hatch against the seats. It sounds _so much_ better than before it's amazing. But I do have a few quibbles. It's not as loud as I hoped it was going to be, but it's loud enough for now. But the amp really isn't getting enough airflow underneath the passenger seat. If I run at max power for 30 minutes it'll overheat for 1-2 min and cut off. I'm going to experiment with seat positions and see if that makes any difference. I may have to put a little 4" 12VDC fan down there or something, like the one in computer power supplies. > Some of the things I have in mind for performance mods > > for the near future are: > > HKS peak hold boost gauge $120 > > This is very cheap, how can you get a PEAK gauge this low? > I paid about $200, and that was a while back Oops, apparently you're right. I wrote that figure from memory and apparently misremembered it. HKS lists theirs for $240, so I expect $200 is about right. > > HKS poppet waste gate (vs. stock swing-type) $275 > > Spearco Intercooler $700 > > This intercooler seems like a very good value. I would be careful, > I have heard bad stories about the stock piping breaking at some > joints and leaking with higher boost pressures, especially at the > elbow that is near the passenger side fender. Does Spearco still use > stock pipes? I know the HKS are larger metal ones. It does come with new elbows and a few pipes. The actual Spearco price is $660. I don't know much more about it than that. > > I've got 55K miles on the car now. I figure sometime in the next 10K > > miles I'll get the timing belt changed, and at the same time get the > > head gasket replaced with an HKS metal one (same size as stock). Then > > Metal head gasket sounds like a good idea. Wasn't available when > I had my head off. But, while it was off, I had it Extrude-Honed > at California. That was good for at least 40 horse in combination > with my other mods. How much did extrude-honing cost and how long did it take? Also, how much boost are you running now? What upgrades have you done to your fuel system to support the extra boost? Thanks Dave! Aaron B. abuhr@eng.ufl.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 12:09:56 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Supra turbo oiler, conclusion (part 4) - the wiring Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com ======================================================================== Note that I am receiving no benefit for the creation and distribution of this information. I have no connections whatsoever with any manufacturers mentioned in these messages. I'm just a happy consumer relating my experiences so that you might benefit. This is neither a commercial, nor an endorsement for any of the products mentioned here. ***********