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^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
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^^^ P O S T I N G S Aug 1995 ^^^
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 23:17:08 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: All OK after Hurricane
Well, I lived through another hurricane. (Wait, we do get to some
Toyota stuff in a bit...) The hurricane itself was pretty wimpy, but
the rain that followed it was impressive. We got about 10" of rain
in one day. For a place that is already a swamp, that is a lot!
Since my power had been out for about 15 hours, I decided to take the
4x4 out and play in the puddles. I hadn't even cranked it in about 2
or 3 months, so I took the battery out of the mazda-rati and put it
in the Toyota. Cranked up like a champ.
Had a blast crashing through flooded streets, until I got to one
that was so bad that you had to look at the street signs at each
intersection to see if you were about to drive into a canal. What looked
like a 4 way stop was several times actually just road one way and
a canal crossing under, errr, over the road. Everything was great
until that wave came over the hood when I tried to take one very
flooded street too fast. Luckily, it was getting more shallow as I
stalled the truck, and when I opened the door to dry the distributor
it was about 1" below the frame of the door.
To make a long story short I sucked up a LOT of water. Took a long
time to restart, and then was VERY rough running. When I (barely)
got back home, I completely pulled the carb apart and cleaned it.
Threw it back together, and it ran better than it had before the deep-
water incident. Cool.
Now, however, it's spitting and sputtering again. Hmmmm... No water
in the fuel, I've checked that. Intake is dry (after I pulled out the
water-soaked air filter!) I shot the carb full of carb cleaner again
and am letting it sit overnight. We'll see how it is doing in the
morning.
How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
This surely did make me rethink my upcoming project to put side
draft carbs on there. I would have gotten killed with those. I'm
now planning a mod where I build a plastic air intake box that will pull
in air through a hole in the hood. It will have a grill that can be
removed and snorkels attached to give me another 12" of clearance.
Any ideas? On the hesitation, the side drafts, the snorkels, etc? We
sure need some traffic on this channel!
Chris
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 09:48:37 +0500
From: toyota@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jonathan Hacker (Toyota))
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
> How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
> after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
> engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
> thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
>
> This surely did make me rethink my upcoming project to put side
> draft carbs on there. I would have gotten killed with those. I'm
> now planning a mod where I build a plastic air intake box that will pull
> in air through a hole in the hood. It will have a grill that can be
> removed and snorkels attached to give me another 12" of clearance.
>
> Any ideas? On the hesitation, the side drafts, the snorkels, etc? We
> sure need some traffic on this channel!
I hope you didn't bend something when you sucked that much water in!
I would run a compression test just to be sure.
Jon
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: WTF: T-Series Motor goes 15 seconds ?
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Allen T "Koji" Kam)
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 13:35:29 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> My friends are claiming they built this guys car.
>
> Okie its a 1978 Corolla SR-5
> 3TC Motor
>
> (Yes RD, its Deans car)
>
> They claim its just a stock bottom half, they just told me
> its been blueprinted, and super secret head work.
>
> What do they know that I Don't ?
>
> I Don't know it ALL but this to me is impossible...i didn't see it run by myself
> but others claim to.
>
> Anyone got any ideas ?
It doesn't sound impossible to me. A '78 Corolla weighs only about
1900 lbs, so a 15 second 1/4 mile time would only require about
150hp or so (plus good tyres, clutch, driver ;)
150hp from 1.77l engine with ported head, good cam and proper
exhaust & intake systems doesn't sound impossible at all.
You need to get it all exactly right, though ;)
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: Gary Hong
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 4:16:30 PDT
>How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
>after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
>engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
>thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
Hiya Chris,
After reading about your fun in the water, I was laughing.
Ever heard of hydraulic lock? :) Hope you didn't ruin/bend any rods/valves. :(
Gary
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To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 09:27:43 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) writes:
> To make a long story short I sucked up a LOT of water. Took a long
> time to restart, and then was VERY rough running.
You might have been better off not trying. People have broken
pistons, blocks, heads, etc. by sucking water into the engines of
4x4s.
> Threw it back together, and it ran better than it had before the deep-
> water incident. Cool.
Guess it just needed a good internal washing!
> This surely did make me rethink my upcoming project to put side
> draft carbs on there. I would have gotten killed with those.
I'm not a power junky when I'm driving my 4x4, and it'll almost
certainly get an ARB snorkel in the next couple years. The snorkel
itself is about $350, but requires a 3" hole in the sheetmetal. A
somewhat cheaper alternative is to run 3" (or so) hose from the intake
to the firewall, to somewhat raise the intake height, and get it out
of the splash area.
> Any ideas? On the hesitation, the side drafts, the snorkels, etc? We
> sure need some traffic on this channel!
If you really want to deep water, I'd fab a complete snorkel that runs
up the A-pillar. Have you installed diff breathing tubes?
Also, since you drove through deep water and stopped, I'd seriously
consider draining a refilling both diffs. When you stopped, the diffs
cooled and may have sucked water in. When you keep moving, they stay
warm and tend not to, but it is only a tendency. Toyota puts valves
on the diffs, but I'm not sure they're sufficient in themselves to
handle prolonged deep immersion.
There's a small chance you got water in the tranny/x-case, but the
Toyota seems to breathe near the shift lever, and it doesn't sound
like you got that deep.
Also, grease all the grease points in the drivetrain.
> Chris
Dan.
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Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 09:43:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
To: cmyer ,
>>How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
>>after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
>>engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
>>thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
>After reading about your fun in the water, I was laughing.
>Ever heard of hydraulic lock? :) Hope you didn't ruin/bend any rods/valves.
:(
To prevent this type of damage, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine
over to expel the water from the cylinders. This is common practice with
personal watercraft (Jetskis, Seadoos, etc) when they take in water.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 22:21:54 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
>After reading about your fun in the water, I was laughing.
>Ever heard of hydraulic lock? :) Hope you didn't ruin/bend any rods/valves.
Oh, I was completely aware of what was happening. Fortunately, the motor
seems to be doing fine. No big deal even so, since I was about to pull
the motor and rebuild it anyway. I already have the head and sidedrafts
set aside, I just need to get to it.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Subject: W50 for 4AG ?
To: Toyota-Mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 00:47:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: poetma00
Hi guys,
I'm still working on my 4AG project. Now, I've already got the engine and
differential. I was lucky being able to locate the differential, since I got
the corolla GTS ones :-).
However, I'm still have a lot of questions about the transmission I
should use.
I'm thinking about putting W50 trans from older (71-81) celica because this
type of transmission is "heavier-duty" than the T-50. I also read from the
Toyota Performance HB, that W50 is a more preferred transmission for high
performance use. Besides, I haven't been able to locate a good
(and affordable) T50 AE86. It's quite easy to find an old T-50 but I could
only locate one very expensive AE 86 (and this is the main consideration
:-( ). About the old T-50 trans, a friend of mine told me that this type
has an even weaker synchronizers than the T-50 AE86 ones.
The problem of putting a W50 is that the bellhousing plate from W-50 is
different than the T= -50. Even the starter is located at different side.
Have any of you, 4AGxx experts :-), try this combination before (w50 and 4AG)?
Beside the bellhousing, I'm also not sure about the clutch and flywheel ?
I mean what kind of clutch and flywheel should I use, the one for 4AG
or for W-50 ?
Any help would be really appreciated.
Mark Poetiray
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Date: Fri, 4 Aug 95 16:19:30 EDT
From: "Marc H. Bremmer"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: need a good 22R
Hey folks,
My 86 4X4 PU had a rod cap come loose (I think)
and #4 cylinder no longer goes up and down.. the truck
runs on three... I need a new Motor anyone have a good suggestion???
are ther any 22R's out there. in the toyo net
Marc
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: RE: Help me choose a drive train
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 1995 03:39:45 +0300 (EET DST)
>>I own a 1975 Toyota Corolla 2dr Sedan (that's right, not much of a
>>performance car).
C'mon, I think it was back in '75 that a Toyota won a World
Rally Championship rally for the first time, with a Corolla...
>I THINK this is the small and boxy looking one, I had a 1977 Corolla 2dr
>Sedan.
>
> Most likely the same thing. Yes, I guess it is small & boxy ;-)
For sure the same thing.
> The diff is the 6.38" I believe. Very weak. I put a new one
> in & it developed backlash in about 2 weeks (well, I did redline
> in 1st & slammed it into 2nd, so I guess there is a reason for it).
Hey, that's normal driving!
> Thing is, they don't break, just "clunk around" annoyingly.
Tell me about it. They do develop other "interesting" noises
too, though :( I deeply wonder what the previous owner had to do
to get my current diff to this condition... I couldn't even get
my other diff to clunk...
>Heh, how serious do ya wanna get =)
>
> Not sure yet :-). Put it this way, I'm even sorta considering
> a Nissan SR20DET or 3S-GTE! For various reasons I don't think
> I'll being using these though. Overkill really, along with a
> temptation to use the power.
Why would you want a fast car if you weren't going to USE the power?
>Did you consider camber adjustment plates ?
>
> I thought they were going to include these but it didn't happen.
> Tyres are dead flat to the ground (0 deg camber) at the moment.
> Time will tell if this is a good thing (will most likely go for
> a degree or two of neg camber, either adjustable or via a strut
> bend).
Are those the only two choices? (Ok, I won't even consider
the bending option for me).
>Twin spot calipers huh =) Neat =) I want a set =)
>
> I'm not sure if they are twin-spot or not. Was told they are
> though. These are a bolt-in fit for the KE series Corolla's.
>From what model are those calipers?
>>As far as the rear-end goes, it seems the logical choice would be a
>disc braked Sprinter rear (GTS corolla in th US).
>
>Yes, I agree totally.
Yup, that's been done numerous times.
>As you say handling is important to you, however, what is your
>driving style ?
>
>I do belive in safe driving, although I enjoy reasonable "spirited street
>driving" on occasion.
>
> I do like the feeling of taking a perfect line thru a corner at
> speed. Just a frustrated racer at heart I guess! To me this is
> more fun than absolute speed.
The most enjoyable driving for me are the twisty countryroads,
at speeds between 120 and 180km/h, taking every curve right to the
limit while balancing the car with both steering and throttle, and
then slamming the throttle wide open when coming out of the corner,
and the weight shift plants the rear tyres firmly to the asphalt...
This will also result in the drivers licence staying with me,
which travelling always above 200km/h+ down the highways might not ;)
>Basically right now it seems to be a decision weither or not to turbo.
>Thats one of the first points, since you list the 3T-GTE, and the 1G-GE
>motor, however don't list the 1G-GTE motor.
>
> Hey, at around 185Kw I may as well put wings on the car & use
> it as a plane :-). Once again though, this is a possibility.
I think 1G-GTE is an excellent engine if you're NOT going to start heavily
modifying the engine. If you are, it would be a choice between
7M-GTE or 3S-GTE.
>Basically you want a non-turbo motor, so you don't have to worry about
>the "boost comming in at the wrong times" or such.
>Its a lot easier to race with a non-turbo motor that the power curves
>are "predictable". However this also means no "raw horsepower" stretchs
>and a disadvantage on "pulling" power on straight aways.
There are no predictability problems with turbo engines, you just need
to learn the behavior of your engine. Boost gauge is IMHO as important
as tach... If you're serious about racing, you want to modify either
your power curve or gearing so that you won't drop out of your peak
power rpms when on the track.
> Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
now I need to learn that once again...
One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
David Coulthard ;)
>Also, are you going to keep the fuel injection ? Or go carbs ?
>
> EFI all the way. Either a Haltec or Electromotive. Any comments
> on either of these?
Don't have first hand experience with either. But for a car for streets
too, I wouldn't even think about replacing EFI with carbs...
>The 4AGE motor is a GOOD all around motor in which I belive in the
>multi-valve techonology. The main kicker is the price in which to
>build one.
>
> Well, current prices for an Import here in Aust, last time I
> checked, was about $1000 for Engine & 'Box. Not too bad.
About $1000 here too... less than half what you'd have to pay
for 3T-GTE here.
>I do like the 3T-TGE motor, and it works DAMM well. No complaints, just
>I'd rather go with techonology with a multi valve motor. Thats my
>thought about or the only complaint I have about t-series motors,
>however the Hemi design and proven "indestructable" bottom end
>is hard to ignore. You can't argue with over 20 years of reliable
>performance =)
>
> True. Good point. Especially with a turbo, intake valve area
> isn't as much of an issue as with an Atmo engine.
I'm not sure if my engines head is stock, but in my case I think
52mm intake valves aren't going to be the first bottleneck.
>You mention the 1G-GE motor. Personally, you can't mess with this motor
>and its reputation.
>
> I haven't checked this out, but I don't think it came out in
> any car over here, except for maybe older Cressida's.
>
> They're cheap though -- how does $295 for a 2nd-hand import
> sound?
$295???? What's the catch? I'd be building Corollas with those
engines for living if I could get them that cheap ;)
>I WANT a 1G-GTE motor myself, to shove in my 1980 Corolla, and been trying
>to get my hands on one... get me a price quote =)
>
> Someone here was selling one for about $1800 tricked up, with
> Auto 'box, no computer. He had it in his '84 (?) Supra I think.
> 185kW! Bolt-in fit! Jealous yet :-) ?
No computer... how on earth do at least half of the used engines
come without it? Do they weld those things apart so carelessly
that they usually fry the computers?
>>It would appear that the 4AG would be the most appropriate here as
>>it's the lightest (less weight over the front end).
>>However, I'm not sure I'll be happy with the power.
>
>Do you plan major mods with the motor ? Or keeping it "basically stock"
>Its a decent motor, and good all around. The power is there and its crisp.
>
> Just slight mods, nothing much internally at this stage.
> Drivability is an issue for the street. I'm looking for
> something that will be pretty much right power-wise from
> the start. Rather than get an engine & later mod it, I'd
> prefer to get a bigger & more powerful engine to start with.
> Then again, you always end up wanting more .....
You'd probably find the 4A-GE's 112hp not enough for you...
Once you would get into modifying it you'd reach its reliable
power output quickly. It's just a 1.6 liter engine after all,
and it can't handle over 170hp without a lot of expensive
modifications (rods, bolts, pistons, lifters etc).
You can get over 200hp out of these, but it will cost you
an arm and a leg, at the very least...
>I'm happy in switching to the 4AG motor from a T-series motor, however
>I cringe at the thought of it blowing up -shrug-
You won't blow it unless you try to run it above 8500 rpm or so
for extended periods with stock lifters & springs.
>>Has anyone heard much about the 20-Valve 4AGE with variable Valve Timing?
>>I can have one of these imported but it will cost about $4000
>>(a bit too much).
>
>I belive thats the Apex Twin Cam motor, 5 vavles per cylinder that
>comes with the Levins.
>
> Does that mean they come into the US? If so, what are they like?
I'd like to hear more about them too. Please?
>>As far as the 3T-GTEU, I think it may place too much weight over
>>the front-end,hence reducing handling.
Might be a problem as such a light car that you have, but that's the
case for all your alternatives except 4A-GE. Actually ANY engine
will be heavier than your 3K... So move the battery to the back,
maybe see if you can lighten up the front bumper, get rid of possible
oil pan armour...
>I do belive the 3T-GTE motor sits lower then the others.
>
> That would be a bonus. Also, room for a strut brace!
Barely. There isn't that much room to spare. I measured the maximum
dimensions for the engine, height=66cm, width=68cm, length=68cm
(with viscous fan).
>>Also, what sort of lag does this engine have?
>
>Lag can be reduced by techonology, blow off valves, fuel computers,
>etc etc.
>
> This will also be taken into account. It's just that in the Turbo
> I drove, I found the lag a bit annoying when cornering -- when I
> want power I want it *NOW*.
<2000rpm - avoid
2000-3000rpm - ok for driving, but no ohmigod power
but once you get to 3000-4000rpm the turbo will keep peak power
up to 7000rpm redline... stay above 4000rpm and the lag won't bother
you. Have a look at my WWW page for torque/power
curves, or I can send the .gif to you uuencoded if you want.
>>Apparently the 3T is easily capable of 200hp.
>
>Yes, it is VERY capable of such numbers, and with relability.
Yes, from 4200rpm to near redline... and that's without an intercooler
(getting one soon, I hope)!
>>Sounds nice, but is the lag & weight penalty worth it?
For me, hell yes!
(But I got 50-50 weight distribution with 2/3 full fuel tank).
>>Also, how reliable are they (proper maintenance>& Idle-down being a given)?
>
>They are very realible, I belive. I've only worked with one turbo model, and
>that basically was a custom modification. However, if you do proper
>turbo "mechanics" you won't encounter any other problems.
Keep the mixture rich enough and don't shut it off with red-hot turbo.
Those two given - very very reliable. Rev limiter might not be a bad
idea though, I got to 8200rpm when having a disagreement with the
2nd gear synchros - no ill effects thank god.
> Yes, it will be all done professionally. Apparently, to actually
> mount the engine in the bay, only the turbo side mount needs
> to be moved. Remember, we didn't get the 2T engine out here.
We did so we have plenty of engine bays in Carinas, Celicas and Corollas
with T-series mounts ;)
>>The 1GGE would have great torque I'd imagine, but what does it rev like?
>>Is this engine even heavier than a 3T-GTE?
>
>I do belive its a bit heavier then the 3T motor, however, the power from
>the motor and the torque from sheer displacement would be worth it.
>
>I do belive its a 2.5 block.
>
> If you mean capacity, the 1GGE is 2.0 L I think (but I could
> be wrong).
Definately it is just 1988cc engine. So peak torque is only 134lbft
vs the 152lbft of stock 3T-GTE or my 245lbft ;)
1G-GTE has 203lbft. For more info, see the engines list on my WWW
pages.
>>Finally, it would seem that the 3SGE would probably fit my purposes best --
>>power, weight, responsiveness etc. taken into account.
>>Comments?
To summarize my recommendation for your engine:
I think 3S-GE would be the best naturally aspirated engine in your case.
If you decide you want more (turbocharged) power, I'd say 3S-GTE
is your best choice if you have the $$$$'s. If not, go for the
3T-GTE. Those sixes are just too large and heavy for a Corolla,
if handling is an issue...
>>For Gearbox, I'd imagine my choices are a RWD Corolla box to fit the 4AGE
>>(once again Sprinter/Corolla GTS).
>>For the rest, a Supra box would be the go.
Absolutely correct.
>>Comments?
>
>The T-50 trans is easily fitted to all of the motors as you say.
>Perhaps find a wrecked Levin and take parts from it ?
>
> Well, for a start, the only Levin's in Aust are personnal imports
> for racing purposes. They don't meet Aust design rules, hence
> can't be registered for road use without mods.
>
> The T-50 'box is the Corolla RWD 'box?
T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
engines and 3T-GTE.
>>Also, would a 3.9 'diff ratio be most appropriate for the "torqueier"
>>engines, whilst a 4.1 would be better for a 4AGE? Cruising rev's & fuel
~5% won't make a huge difference, but I agree with you.
>>economy is an issue here as well (but performance is No. 1 priority :-).
>
>Depends on your motor set up also. Power curves etc etc, proably a turbo
>motor would suit you the best in the long run.
When I changed from 4.1 to 3.727 I lost nothing in acceleration, but
got more relaxed cruising revs (4080rpm@140km/h is typical for me).
I do have to downshift to make a 100% efficient pass more often
though, so 3rd and 4th gear see more use now...
> Too true. The turbo I drove was good like that. Docile in
> traffic, but plant the right foot & away you go. Lined up a
> Suzuki RGV 250 bike one day ('coz a mate of mine used to always
> brag about how no car could out-accelerate him on his). Result :
> Commodore VS Suzuki : TIE. Gee that car was quick ....
Motorbikes seem to be the only vehicles I get to stoplight race
anymore... others are rarely of any competition at all.
>Nah nah nah, I think we need to know what type of club racing
>and what sorta daily driving habits you have with this vehicle.
>
> Hopefully I've given you more of an idea. I'll have to think
> about this some more & find out more about the types of
> circuits I'm likely to see. As far as I know, it will be all
> types -- tight ones hard on brakes & needing good handling, along
> with open ones where power is more of an issue. Just to confuse
> matters more.
If the circuits you will race are very slow (most of the time below
50mph or so) a naturally aspirated engine will have a significant
advantage. Otherwise, go for a turbo...
> Guess I'm after the perfect car huh :-> .
Aren't we all ;) Anyone have a Supra TT or Celica GT-4 or MR2 Turbo
to donate to a good home? =)
>I guess AC is not an important issue ?
>
> I would like to fit this eventually. May be a bit of a space
> problem if I get the 3T. Rest of the engines, should be ok.
> I've seen pictures of 3T's into this car -- tight squeeze.
I don't have much space under the hood or my Carina either, but I know
that many people have stuffed the AC in there.
>I would personally go with techonology and a turbo.
>Multi valve motor plus turbo.
I'd find it hard to drive a car without a turbo anymore, I got
addicted to the (mid/high-range) power...
Welcome to the list and good luck with your project!
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 7 Aug 95 14:15:10
Subject: AC and the 18RG
Attention 18-RG gurus:
I've just installed an 18RG engine (still breaking it in -- 100 miles to go
before I can floor it) in my car
and I'm quite stumped as to how to route the fan belts to drive the AC
compressor.
The engine did not come with the OEM AC compressor brackets, and now I'm forced
to have some
custom made.
I assume the AC compressor will be mounted somewhere above the alternator
(exhaust manifold
side). There are two belt grooves in the crank pulley but only one groove on
the pulley for the water
pump. Right now, one fan belt drives the water pump and the alternator. I
assume the belt for the
AC compressor will be using the second groove on the crank pulley, but how does
it clear the water
pump? Is there an idler pulley somewhere to pull the belt away from the pump?
Or should there be
two grooves on the pulley on the water pump?
Right now, I have two options: Stick an idler pulley in there to pull the AC
belt away from the water pump, or have a machine shop make me a water pump
pulley with two belt grooves.
If you have a 18RG engine in your car, please take a quick look under the hood
and please tell me
what you see. I'd like to know how Toyota did it.
Thanks in advance,
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 23:25:10 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Latest from the Uboat Commander
Well, the 4x4 seems to be running fairly well, but I am spotting a bit
more metal flake in the Oberg oil filter than usual, and it is requiring
cleaning about every 5 miles! It's times like these when I love that
filter! As everyone may know, it has a pressure sensor in it and when
the oil filter goes into flow-by mode from being overly dirty, it lights
a light on the dashboard. I've cleaned it 3 times since last Wednesday.
With a regular filter, I'd just be free-flowing dirt/metal through the
engine.
Thanks for all the good tips. You can certainly tell that, although
I've owned this truck for 12 years, I am much more a racer than a 4
wheeler! I'll certainly do better next time. I have decided I will build
a snorkel kit for the side drafts, but I will make it easily installable/
removeable, and not run it unless I plan on going swimming again.
I've decided not to do too much else on the truck right now. I don't
drive it much, and am in the planning stages of completely rebuilding
it from the bottom up. It doesn't make too much sense to do too much
until I start on the refurbishment. I've decided to go ahead and
rebuild the motor out of the race car for the truck. 10.5:1 pistons,
20R head, side drafts, header, cam, I'm shooting for about 180-190 hp.
As for the rest of the truck, I'm really strongly considering that step-
side bed from Downey. Also, there's a kit that completely replaces the
top and back of the cab with a removeable plexiglass panel. The structural
part of the roof over and behind the door is not touched, so there is
no weaking of the body. I think it'll look pretty cool. Has anyone else
out there seen this kit?
Top all of this off with some nice Recaro's, Schroth belts, a nice stero,
and I think it'll be a showpiece. Just perfect for the next hurricane!
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 23:25:19 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: AC and the 18RG
>Right now, I have two options: Stick an idler pulley in there to pull the AC
>belt away from the water pump, or have a machine shop make me a water pump
>pulley with two belt grooves.
According to the Toyota Factory repair manual for the 18RG, you should
have a double notch water pump pulley if you have an AC compressor.
One belt (in the back notch) crosses the crank pulley, the water pump
pulley, and the alternator. The front belt crosses the crank, the
water pump, and then the alternator. I'd go hunting for some 18R's in
the junk yard and try to steal their setup, or see if they could be
modified to work for you. BTW, in the drawing, the compressor is
mounted just above and to the right (looking from the front of the
car) of the alternator.
Hope this helps!
Chris
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Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 9:06:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota Shims
Well, a bunch of you have been asking me how I am progressing in my
quest for some performance camshafts. I have been talking to
"Georgie" at ToyoSport, and he told me that he could get me a set of
shims made. Two weeks later, he tells me that he really cant motivate his
suppliers to get the shims manufactured. Needless to say, I am pissed.
Well, all else failed, so I let my fingers to the walking down to a little
machine shop in Richardson, Texas. I told the guy there about what I needed
and then went down for a visit. The guy I met, "Ireland" was about
70 years old, had a small machine shop, and he still had old leather bound
machine specification books on the wall. He did own a calculator, so I
relaxed. As it turns out, Ireland can build my shims for me from scratch -
at a cost of about $200 for 12.
Well, $200 is better than $385 for new factory cams.
-d.ginther
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Development
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 10:53:19 -0400
To: DCG9381@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Toyota Shims
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
> Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 9:42:21 -0500 (CDT)
> From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
> To: msink@imonics.com
> Subject: Re: Toyota Shims
>
> sorry.. you are right... ToySport...
OK.. cause when you sent out mail about a week ago trying to find their
number, you said information couldnt find it. I said they couldn't find
it because you were spelling it wrong, and have been ever since. Anyway,
it doesn't surprise me they pissed you off. I was told I could have a
custom made 4 puck clutch in 2 weeks. After letting my car sit for 2 MONTHS
while waiting for it, they finally sent me this CenterForce disc, and CF wanna-be
pressure plate. I was supposed to get a 4 puck metallic disc, and 1500 lb pressure
plate. I got neither, was charged the same $300, and lost use of my car for
2 months while waiting for it. On top of that.. I was going to buy a turbo kit
for my '87 MR2. We talked a little bit about it, and he told me to send him
exactly what I wanted. Believe me I sent him exactly what I wanted, even a hp/
torque curve I was looking for. He told me they were working on a turbo kit
for my car, and when I sent him my specs, he would get back to me. I was ready
to spend some BIG bucks for this. I never heard a word back, not one! And this
was AFTER they ripped me on the clutch. So, you having to wait 2 weeks for nothing
is probably better than waiting 2 months for something you could have gotten from
someone else, for less money!
mark Sink
I wouldn't try to buy anything "custom made" from Toysport. They DON'T deliver!!
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Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 10:58:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: ToySport
I have a correction. The company that was going to get me cam shims
was ToySport, not ToyoSport.
I do not know what these idiots do for a living, but they have no concept
of customer service. I made 8 LD calls to them, each time I was promised
that they would have the information on the shims "in a day or so".
To date, "georgie" has never told me that he can
't get the shims I need. His specific response was that he was calling
individuals that had provided shims for these applications before, but
he couldn't guarantee anything since they produced these shims as a
"special favor to him". Man, at 8-10 bucks a shim times twelve shims,
no one is going anyone favors.
The local guy who is building these things from scratch is going to have
a final bill of about $200 - I don't even care because I got straight
answers and good customer service.
I realize that I have to consider the hardness of the shims. This is my
line of thinking and you can tell me if I am correct:
Since the shims are NOT in constant contact with the camshafts, they need
to be of sufficent hardness so that they will not scrape away when the
camshaft turns down on them. Material that is too soft would be much
worse than material that is too hard. The original shims only had a few
thousands of a mm wear on them with 60K miles. I was told by
the machinist that he could match the hardness to a certain degree, so
I dont have to worry about it.
-d
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 8 Aug 95 13:48:25
Subject: Re: AC and the 18RG
>>Right now, I have two options: Stick an idler pulley in there to pull the AC
>>belt away from the water pump, or have a machine shop make me a water pump
>>pulley with two belt grooves.
>According to the Toyota Factory repair manual for the 18RG, you should
>have a double notch water pump pulley if you have an AC compressor.
>Hope this helps!
>Chris
Thanks Chris.... I never thought about the 18RG manual... although I did buy
one from you : )
I guess the engine I have didn't come with the a/c compressor. However, the
water pump pulley does have two notches on it, but, one of the notch is smaller
in diameter and is not aligned to the crank pulley -- its probably used to
drive another accessory (power steering pump, I assume).
I remember a thread a few months back about 18RG engines can either have power
steering or air-conditioning... but not both. Now, I know why.... the
distributor's in the way :(
---- A little update on my new engine while I'm here..... The break-in period
is over! The car is in the shop right now having the head re-torqued and the
oil changed. A little tuning and .... vrooom! :) Details tomorrow...
-John
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 07:58:25 EDT
From: golder@ppd.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Synchometer vs. Rubber Hose.
> I've read somewhere that if you don't have a Synchrometer, you can
> synchronize dual side draft carbs by holding a rubber hose near your ear.
> Has anyone heard of this method before? Where do you put the other end
> of the hose? What do you listen for?
You want to adjust the carbs so that they all sound the same. Do you know
anyone with an old British car? Many of them had multiple carbs, and this
was a common technique for synchronizing when a real sync tool wasn't
available. This method is even described in some of the repair manuals.
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 9 Aug 95 9:16:01
Subject: Synchometer vs. Rubber Hose.
I've read somewhere that if you don't have a Synchrometer, you can synchronize
dual side draft carbs by holding a rubber hose near your ear.
Has anyone heard of this method before? Where do you put the other end of the
hose? What do you listen for?
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 9 Aug 95 18:03:31
Subject: Re: carb sync.
Darin Ginther writes:
> You can probabily borrow a sync meter, if you are in any type of car
> club.. If not, I would recommend a vacuum gague.. (if your carbs are
> not linked)
If you mean linked via a balance tube, yet it is. I have a vacuum gauge in the
dash but its tapped to the center of the balance tube. Would there be ill
effects if i pull the balance tube out and just plug holes left behind? I
would think it would be easier to sync the carbs that way -- at least the carbs
would be running independently from each other. Somebody please tell me that
I'm wrong before I yank the tube out.
Thanks,
John.
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:50:30 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Prepare for Major Bandwidth Usage!
Well! Some folks had said that there wasn't much traffic on TM lately.
I'm about to fix that! (At least temporarily.) I am posting a big back-
log of me/mine/mods to the group, but this time I am doing them all
as single messages, as opposed to my former method of pulling them into
one file, cleaning them up, and sending them out at once. In the future
you shouldn't see this huge clump of messages any more! I have changed
the introduction to the list to have new members post their me/mine/mods
directly to toyota-mods, as opposed to toyota-mods-owner. I am not sure
why we decided to do it that way, way back when, but I am sure we had a
good reason at that time.
Anyway, 1000 pardons for the big clump of messages. Please post some
responses to these emails.
Chris
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:00 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Trey Cobb
>Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 20:50:47 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Trey Cobb
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>
>Name : Trey Cobb
>Location : Dallas, TX
>Model : 1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II [GT-R] (10th Anniversary Edition)
>Engine : 13BT (Turbo Twin Rotor)
>Mods : RS*R Exhaust, HKS Super Powerflow, Techtom ECU, Racing Beat
> strut tower bar, etc. (Trust I/C on order)
>email : vernor@netcom.com
>
>I know I don't have a Toyota but because of my interest and knowledge on
>tuning turbo cars, as well as my involvement in tuning friends Turbo '2s
>and a Supercharged MR2, I hope my participation in your mailing list
>will be allowed. I am no elitest just as your welcoming email makes
>claim to the fact that the list isn't elitest only so I promise no
>bashing of Toyota products or modifications made to them. I only want
>to learn.
>
>Maybe one day I can afford to get a nice 2JZ-GTE Supra.
>
>| Trey Cobb | 1988 RX-7 Turbo II | Turbo II Perf. List
>| vernor@netcom.com | (10th Anniv. Edition) | Maintainer/Writer
>| Eccentric Tuning, Inc. | 260HP++ / 12-13psi | "Stock SUCKS!"
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:14 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Ralph Hill
>Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 10:41:25 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Ralph Hill
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Ralph Hill
>Location : Morristown NJ
>Model : 1993 Camry DX (only options: AC, floor mats, mud flaps)
>Engine : 5FSE? (Something like that, don't have book with me. The
>130 hp 2.2l 4)
>Mods : Rear anti-roll and bushing from an SE (HUGE!!! difference),
>wider throttle pedal to allow heel-toe down shifts, extra lubricant on
>shift linkage (helps get rid of some of the notchy feel), tighten
>throttle cable (too much slack in the stock set-up for good control).
>email : rdh@bellcore.com
>
>Hopes and plans:
>
>15 or 16 inch wheels and matching tires for the Camry.
>
>Always on the look-out for a good used MR2
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:34 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu (Alvin Reyes Mendoza)
>Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 09:54:35 -0700
>X-Sender: amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>From: amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu (Alvin Reyes Mendoza)
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Alvin Reyes Mendoza
>Location : San Diego, CA, USA
>Model : 1987 Toyota Corolla SR5
>Engine : 4-AC
>Mods : K&N stock replacement air filter, Ultra-Flo Exaust,
> Split-fire plugs, Jacobs Electonics plug wires
>email : amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu
>Alvin Reyes Mendoza
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:51 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Bruce Brandt 834-7372
>MR-Received: by mta OCMV36.MUAS; Relayed; Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:38:55 -0500 (CDT)
>MR-Received: by mta OCMV36; Relayed; Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:38:56 -0500 (CDT)
>Disclose-recipients: prohibited
>Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:38:55 CDT
>From: Bruce Brandt 834-7372
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Autoforwarded: false
>Importance: normal
>Priority: normal
>Sensitivity: Company-Confidential
>UA-content-id: 119679E63700
>X400-MTS-identifier: [;5755380715061995/A17611/OCMV36]
>Hop-count: 0
>
>Name :Bruce Brandt
>Location :Austin, TX
>Model :1989 Supercharged MR2
>Engine :4A-GEZ
>Mods :K&N Filtercharger, uprated tires to Pirelli P600 205-55
>email :brandt@am.ocmv36.frco.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:52:11 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods John Page
>From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
>Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 19:30:51 -0400
>To: Toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name: John Page
>Location: Los Angeles, USA
>Model: 1994 Supra Turbo 6 speed
>Engine: turbo
>Mods: R1 racing tires
>email: godknows@aol.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:52:26 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: mine Albert E. Cram
>From: acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu
>To: toyota-mods
>Subject: mine
>Date: Tue, 27 Jun 95 13:02:20 CDT
>Sender: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
>Precedence: bulk
>
>Name: Albert E. Cram
>Location: Iowa City, Iowa
>Model: MR2 1985
>Engine: 4AGE
>Mods: None yet, working on suspension first and hope to learn
>from others re best suppliers. I have a Lotus 7 E modified solo
>car so I'm familiar with making mistakes due to lack of knowledge.
> I hope to avoid some of those mistakes by listening to you.
>
>E mail: acram@surgery.uiowa.edu
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:52:43 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Dave Cole
>Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 21:41:59 GMT
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>From: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca (Dave Cole)
>X-Sender: dcole@pop.etc.bc.ca
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Location : Prince George B.C. Canada
>Model : 1992 paseo
>Engine : (e.g. 3S-GE -- please be specific, several versions may exist)
>Mods : None yet. I am finding out that there is not much available
>for a Paseo
>email: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca
>Dave Cole S.D.57
>Prince George B.C.
>Canada
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:07 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods (correction) Dave Cole
>Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 22:40:28 GMT
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>From: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca (Dave Cole)
>X-Sender: dcole@pop.etc.bc.ca
>Subject: me/mine/mods (correction)
>
>Location : Prince George B.C. Canada
>Model : 1992 Paseo
>Engine :5E-FE
>Mods : None yet. I am finding out that there is not much available for
>a Paseo
>email: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca
>Dave Cole S.D.57
>Prince George B.C.
>Canada
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:22 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Tim Miller
>Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 07:05:00 -0600
>From: Tim Miller
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Hi, my name is Tim Miller and I wanted to introduce myself to all of you. I
live in St.Paul,
>MN and currently have a 91 MR2 Turbo. The only modifications I have done
so far are
>the addition of a K&N air filter and a wheel and tire upgrade to 16" Moda
M1 with
>Yokahama AVS Intermediates. I am looking for ideas on what mods will make
the most
>dramatic changes for the price. I am kind of new to the sports car market,
so I probable
>won't have many tips for anyone else.
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:37 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Tony Lanterman
>Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 18:07:45 -0700
>From: Tony Lanterman
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Tony Lanterman (aka Joe Woodsprite)
>Location : Portland, OR
>Model : 1983 Toyota Celica ST
>Engine : 22R (carb)
>Mods : Aftermarket sunroof, American Racing wheels,
> Bosch Foglights, Centerforce I clutch, '83 GT
> Seats, 350w of (Pullout) stereo sound.
>email : lantera@teleport.com
>
>Future Mods: Smog-legal headers, indexed plugs, New springs
> shocks and struts, cat-back exhaust, new paint.
>
>Just an update to go with the new address.
> Woodsprite
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:57 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Peter Mejak
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 13:51:18 +1000
>From: Peter Mejak
>
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Peter Mejak
>Location : Melbourne, Australia
>Model : 1975 Toyota Corolla
>Engine : 5K
>Mods : 32/36 Downdraft Weber
> Extractors
> 1 3/4" Sports Exhaust System
> Bilstein front Struts
> "Race-Type" narrow springs on custom adjustable (up/down) platforms
> (front, modified from RT-142 Corona)
> Corona RT-142 Brakes -- 10.5" Solid Front Discs & Calipers
> QFM Street Brake Pads
> Uprated Brake Booster/Master Cylinder
> 13x5.5" alloys, Falken FK06G 205/60 tyres
> Bosch Electronic Ignition
> Uprated Rear Springs, Heavy Duty Dampers
> Various Interior Mods
> (Probably other things I've forgotten)
>
>email : peterm@aus.hp.com
>
>Hi,
>
>I own the above car. It's great to finally find this list.
>
>At the moment, it's undergoing a complete Restoration. Future plans (soon)
>are to change to a Toyota Sprinter Disc Braked Rear (Toyota Corolla GT in
>the US?), Koni rear dampers, plus an engine swap. Only thing holding this
>up is the body work being done.
>
>Engines currently being considered : 4AGE, 3S-GE, 1GGE, 3T-GTE.
>
>Will also update wheels to 15x7 with 195/50 to take full advantage of the
>suspension mods.
>
>Any info from anyone who has seen/done the above swaps would be helpful.
>
>Regards,
>
>Peter.
>
>======================================================
>Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
>peterm@aus.hp.com
>======================================================
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:54:12 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods John Limcangco
>To: toyota-mods-owner
>From: "john.limcangco"
>Date: 25 Jul 95 11:09:17
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>I'm back!
>
>Name: John Limcangco
>Location: Manila, Philippines
>Model: 1979 Cressida 4-door sedan
>Engine: 18-RG
>Mods: Recently replaced stock 18-RC engine with 18-RG. Ported, polished,
>balanced, 9.7:1 compressions pistons, 1 mm overbore, lightened flywheel,
>Crane Ignition, headers and free flowing exhaust system;
> lowered around 2.5 inches all around; 15" alloy wheels from '84-'85 Supra;
> retrofitted 'junk-yard special' power steering, power windows, and power
>locks.
> CD player, pre-amp, signal processors, amps, separates, subwoofers....
>e-mail: john.limcangco@ac.com
>
>What's up Chris? I got back home from Atlanta last Wednesday evening. My
new
>engine was
>installed and running beautifully. I still have to get over the 500 mile
>break-in period, oh well.
>
>My mechaninc, Jing de Leon, did a good job of putting everything together...
>and the details were
>very nice -- down to the OEM looking black wrinkle finish valve covers. The
>K&N filters fit very
>well, with enough room to clear the passenger side shock tower; and the plug
>wires look very 'serious'. The stock blue NGK plug wires look wimpy next to
>the TRD wires.
>
>I have yet to install the ignition system. I'll find time to do it this
>weekend.
>
>-John.
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:54:28 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Paddy McManus
>Date: Fri, 28 Jul 1995 13:47:29 +0900
>From: Patrick McManus
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Paddy McManus
>Location : Tokyo, Japan
>Model : 1995 Supra Turbo Aerotop, Automatic, 17" wheels
>Engine : Will send in another mail, 3000cc, s6, 24v
>Mods : None
>email : pmcmanus@tt.kubota.co.jp
>
>In summary, its a wonderful car - goes so fast so safely, that when the speed
>restrictor cuts in it feels as if you are doing 80mph, and not 125mph (I can't
>believe 155 comes that quickly and so smoothly.
>
>Paddy
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:54:47 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: '92 Celica GTS mods. Rob P. Martin
>Subject: '92 Celica GTS mods.
>To: toyota-mods
>Date: Sun, 23 Jul 95 19:38:41 MDT
>From: "Rob P. Martin"
>
> Well, I have been a lurker here for about a year (I
>haven't even posted my mods yet) so I thought that it was about
>time I spoke up. :)
>
>Currently my car sits at:
>'92 Celica GTS
>K&N Filter Charger
>Mobil 1 Oil
>Niken Racing Pedals
>Tinted windows
>
>As you can see, so far most of my modifications have been almost
>purely cosmetic. I am now ready to start doing more performance
>oriented modifications.
>
>I am looking at freeing up my exhaust system, but I have run into
>a bit of a wall. HKS does not make anything for this model year
>(as of yet) so I went looking for other sources. The only
>"pre-built" system that I could find is from Reddi (SP?) Racing
>and costs about $750 + tax + install. My other option is to have
>a local shop here do something with a dynomax muffler and some
>custom piping. estimated cost $400 incl. install.
>
>My question is, is the RR model that much better? Does anyone
>have any experience with RR exhausts, and might want to let me in
>on them? Are there other manufacturers that I should be looking
>at? Does anyone know where I can get RR at a discount? (I think
>that the shop I am talking to they are trying for full list, but
>I haven't tried to cut them down yet, because I don't know enough
>about the system to know if it is worth my time).
>
>I would also like to go with a K&N cone filter, but I wonder of
>the merits of this, ie. performance boost vs. filtration
>efficiency.
>
>Well, any help/hints would be appreciated.
>
> Rob
>
>--
>rpmartin@acs.ucalgary.ca | The greatest pleasure in life is doing what
>rpmartin@freenet.calgary.ab.ca | other people say you cannot do.
>-------------------------------| - Walter Bagehot
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:55:09 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Dick Byrd
>Date: Sat, 5 Aug 1995 00:01:13 -0400
>From: "Dick Byrd"
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>>If you haven't done so already, send information describing yourself,
>>your car, any modifications you have made, and any other comments:
>
>Name: Dick Byrd
>Location: Fairfax, Virginia (suburb of Wash., D.C.)
>Models: 1982 Toy Supra
> 1983 Toy Corolla
> 1987 Toy Camry
>Mods: Supra has head ported/polished and 20 Thou milled off.
>
>I've owned only Toyotas for 20 years, first one was a 1972 Celica.
>I do all my own maintenance. Recently replaced timing belt in Supra.
>
>Stuff from Dick Byrd
>byrd@mnsinc.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:55:26 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Ed Pitts
>From: ARacer@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 11:22:30 -0400
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name: Ed Pitts
>Location: Solana Beach, CA, USA
>Model: 1988 Corolla sedan, 5 speed
>Engine: 4A-F carbureted
>Mods: Suspension Techniques springs (15% stiffer than GTS Coupe, est. 35%
>stiffer than stock sedan), front stabilizer bar from 4-wheel drive station
>wagon (stock bushings), rear stabilizer from GTS coupe (TRD high-durometer
>rubber bushings), stock shocks from GTS coupe (slotted to run 2 degrees
>negative camber), other suspension settings (front toe out 1/4 to 3/8 inch,
>rear toe zero), rear disk brakes from GTS, front strut tower brace from GAB
>(with extensive refabrication), 2" exhaust behind cat, Ultra Flow muffler,
>polished exhaust manifold, TRD quick shift lever (cut down 1-1/4" and angled
>left instead of right), left-foot idle pedal, Momo steering wheel, Simpson
>5-point harness (3" belts; stock belts left in place), cheap aftermarket
>tach, rear spoiler from GTS coupe, 15x7 Momo Ferrari Engineering wheels,
>195/50-15 Yokhama A509 tires (will go back to the Z-rated AVS Intermediates
>next time), tire pressures (street - 35 psi front, 32 psi rear) (autocross -
>45 to 50 psi front, 30 to 35 rear). Future mods: Complete disk brake upgrade,
>4A-GZE engine/supercharger from 88 MR2 (or equivalent supercharger on 4A-GE)
>(where to put the intercooler?), halfshafts from GTS coupe, AutoPower roll
>cage, some performance seat (a little lower to give me some helmet clearance
>from the cage).
>email: A Racer@aol.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:55:56 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Monte Bedford
>From: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
>Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 17:20:51 EST
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>
>Hi,
> I'm happy to become a member of Toyota-mods. I was extremely
>interested in reading the toyota-mods_posts from the Info Inserver, www.
>
> I've been moditying my (same) Corolla, strictly as a fun-on-the-street
>daily driver since the early 80's. In fact, I didn't know how to even approach
>the hobby (obsession) until I saw an ad for TRD, called, and asked if they
>thought it was possible to put a Celica engine into my '78 Corolla. What a
>hoot!! But Tim said, "build it" (the 2TC, that is).
>
> So with help, at first, from a professional engine builder--didn't want
>to learn engine building with expensive parts--but oh, how things have
>changed-- I've put together, over a long period of time, some modifications.
>
> But first, let me introduce myself.
>
> Monte Bedford
> 3702 W. Stafford Drive
> Bloomington, IN 47403
>
> e-mail: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
>
>1978 Corolla, 2 dr. sedan, deluxe, TE31, blue, T-50 5 speed
>
>Engine: 3TC block; 2TC head, distributor
>
>Modifications:
>
>TRD 2 liter pistons, rings, pins
>rods shotpeened, magnaflux, stress-releaved, "I" beams polished
>TRD rallye bearing set
>TRD oil pump
>balanced
>TRD head gasket
>TRD oversized valves, double valve springs, seats, retainers, and bronze
>guides
>Head was reworked on a professional racing flow bench.
>2 x 44 mm Mikuni side-drafts
>4 " K&N filters
>TRD ignition wires
>TRD light flywheel
>TRD clutch
>TRD header
>2 1/4" exhaust system
>SuperTrapp 18" stainless exhaust (fiberglass, baffle plates)
>185HR14 on alloy Shelby "Daytona"'s
>
>About the suspension:
>
>Bought heavy-duty front springs (brand? bought from Select Sales, Miami, quite
>awhile back) and Tokico adjustable struts/shocks, but haven't installed them
>because I'm thinking of getting rid of the body, which, from the last several
>Indiana winters is giving way to cancer. So, I'm looking for a rust-free,
>non-trashed 2-dr. Corolla (up through '82), which doesn't exist (certainly not
>for sale) in this part of the country.
>
>Plan: When I find such vehicle, ***which will never be driven in the midwest
>winter***, transfer engine, exhaust, install suspension parts, restore
>ext./int. as needed.
>
>Other plans include, but NOT LIMITED TO:
> Rework the rear end for better gearing and non-slip
> Modify brakes
> Better coil, monkey with plugs
>
>That's all for now. Look forward to getting to know other people and their
>Toyotas.
>
>Monte
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:56:19 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Paul Pyyvaara
>Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 09:40:18 -0600 (CST)
>From: Paul Pyyvaara
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Paul Pyyvaara
>Location : Gold Coast, Australia
>Model : 1971 Corolla KE-25 coupe
>Engine : 2-TG
>Mods : Oversized pistons with mild head work (1798cc)
> (original engine was 3K-H), Celica 5-speed. Will build a
> stroker for the new year to ~2000cc.
> Late model Mitsubishi vented disc brakes with Cortina
> calipers on the front, Late model 120Y diff with Nissan
> Bluebird disks/calipers on the rear. Lowered with 14"
> 3-piece rims.
>email : paulp@dstc.edu.au
>
>Cheers,
>
> Paul.
>------------------------------------------------------------
> Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
> Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
> B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
> Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:44:27 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods James O'Brien
>From: "James O'Brien"
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 11:03:38 +0800 (WST)
>
>NAME : James O'Brien
>LOCATION : Perth, Western Australia
>MODEL : 1979 T-18 (Chassis # TE-72)
>ENGINE : 4-AGE / 3T-C
>MODS : Replaced the 3T-C with a 4A-GE, added a high flow filter (HKS)
> added a bigger exhaust (don't know the size yet, its being done today)
> replaced tailshaft and gearbox with gearbox from Japanese Corona
> and had a T-18 shaft _properly_ remanufactured.
> Also have a Kenwood stereo which will be upgraded soon
> I would like some aftermarket seats but these are out of my price range
> at the moment.
>EMAIL : obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:44:30 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Paul Banim
>From: Paul Banim
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 12:29:06 +1000 (EST)
>
>Name: Paul Banim
>Location: University of Tasmania, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
>Model: 1969 KE10 Corolla
>Engine: 3K
>Mods: extractors, 14inch rims-low profile tyres, suspension, graphics,
> interior
>Email: pm_banim@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>--
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:44:45 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: BOUNCE toyota-mods@cyberauto.com: Admin request
Interesting stuff from John Lincangco. Don't know why this one blounced!
Chris
>Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 21:48:40 -0400
>To: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
>From: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
>Subject: BOUNCE toyota-mods@cyberauto.com: Admin request
>
>To: toyota-mods
>From: "john.limcangco"
>Date: 9 Aug 95 9:29:31
>Subject: Help me diagnose....
>
>I've just finished breaking-in my 18RG with dual Mikuni 40 carbs, 9.7:1
>compression, port/polish. I had the head re-torqued and the oil+filter was
>changed.
>
>It RAN great. It pulls very strong from 2000 rpm all the way to 5000 rpm. I
>don't know what the correct red-line so I don't want to push it until I can
>confirm with the engine builder. He claims 8000+, but I want it in writing so
>he'll fix it when it blows up :) . Anyway, the problem I have now is that
>after a series of full throttle passes all the way to 5000 rpm, the engine
just
>won't idle. Its rough from 1000 rpm to 2500 rpm. The exhaust pipe has some
>kind of black deposits (it didn't have this when I was breaking it in).
>
>The engine builder said something about having the carbs tuned and/or
>re-jetted.... What kind of adjustments are needed? Someone please give me a
>second opinion.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Limcangco
>Manila, Philippines
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 23:09:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Name :Craig Alen Terlau
Location :Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
Model :Toyota Starlets 81-84 (prep for race, rally, ice racing)
Engine :3K, 4K, 5K
Mods :engine, EFI, exhaust, suspension, brakes, chassis, durability
email :terlau@csd.uwm.edu
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 21:48:22 -1000
From: "Allen T "Koji" Kam"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: (*sigh*)
Just When I get some free time to catch up on some back postings...
Chris does thistome again =)
Um, welcome all new peeples =)
Often there is a great "lag time" etc etc.
However if you really kinna want some related facts towards your car like
post it to someones attention like
"Koji respond to this"
"Matti how the heck do you get great gas milage"
"Chris, how big are your 4x4 tires that you were crusing along in the flood
using the tops of stop signs as road markers"
etc etc..
Another things is also... don't feel bad to speak up or even make silly comments =)
There is no such thing as a "stupid question or answer" if its not asked =)
Oh, please create some traffic like in regards to why you joined the list or whta you expect out of this list..
So far, we got a great crew here..just some of us are quite busy and
want to reply..just don't have the time -sigh-
I'm about 6 months behind so if you want a quick response to me like
threaten to give me a job or somethin...
Then i'll respond VERY quickly (usually)
Welcome Eberry bunny =)
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
Unoffical Toyota-Mods-WOB Spokespeeple
1980 Corolla SR-5
1987 Corolla FX-16
1988 Celica GTS
1995 Rollerblade Tarmac CS
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 10 Aug 95 13:47:52
Subject: Update on project 18RG.
> Interesting stuff from John Lincangco. Don't know why this one blounced!
> Chris
>>
>> I've just finished breaking-in my 18RG with dual Mikuni 40 carbs, 9.7:1
>> compression, port/polish. I had the head re-torqued and the oil+filter was
>> changed.
>>
>> It RAN great. It pulls very strong from 2000 rpm all the way to 5000 rpm.
I
>> don't know what the correct red-line so I don't want to push it until I can
>> confirm with the engine builder. He claims 8000+, but I want it in writing
so
>> he'll fix it when it blows up :) . Anyway, the problem I have now is that
>> after a series of full throttle passes all the way to 5000 rpm, the engine
just
>> won't idle. Its rough from 1000 rpm to 2500 rpm. The exhaust pipe has
some
>> kind of black deposits (it didn't have this when I was breaking it in).
>>
>> The engine builder said something about having the carbs tuned and/or
>> re-jetted.... What kind of adjustments are needed? Someone please give me a
>> second opinion.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John Limcangco
>> Manila, Philippines
>>
Ok, here's an update: I went back to the engine builder to have the car
checked. Aparently, my few 5000 rpm passes made a jet (idle jet maybe)
unscrew itself. There was also a vacuum leak somewhere in the carbs' balance
tube... Time to yank that balance tube out!
The builder said that he changed the jets... I asked to what size and he said
"just big enough....". Some kind of secret, I think. I'll find out in due
time. Bottom line is, he car runs great and the engine idles verrrrrrry
smooth. He also quoted 7000 rpm as a good everyday red-line. 8000+ once in a
while (like in a mis-gear) won't blow it up, said he. He's guarranteeing his
work for 5 years --- As long as I am diligent about changing the oil every 3000
miles and that nobody else touches the engine. Not bad.
Its raining over here now, the roads are wet (flooded at some areas) so I still
haven't seen the world from 5000 rpm up.
I promise a full Engine Swap Report posted on TM sometime soon.
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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From: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 95 14:02:23 EST
Subject: Monte and Craig talking about 2T-C in a Starlet
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Hi, after having JUST joined Toyota-mods, I sent my first TM e-mail to Craig
Terlau, but that was via PERSONAL internet message. BUT HEY, WHAT'S THE WHOLE
POINT IF WE CAN'T SHARE THESE SORTS OF MESSAGES WITH THE WHOLE GROUP. WASN'T
THINKING. MY FAULT. Now will try to rectify, so Craig, if it's okay with you,
I'll paraphrase me, then quote you.
Basically, I have a built up 3TC block/2TC head. The body of my '78 Corolla is
rotting away (Indiana winters). I know Craig, from Milwaukee, can really
relate. So, I'm looking for a rust-free vehicle for my engine. E-mailed
Craig about his Starlets as a possible alternative to finding another Corolla.
Monte
From: PO3::"terlau@csd.uwm.edu" "Craig A Terlau" 10-AUG-1995 12:44:23.74
To: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
CC:
Subj: Re: your Starlets--read about, toyota-mods
Hi, I have never seen that engine in a Starlet, but Ian McKenzie at
Select Sales in Miami has done this. The Starlet would be a great chasis
to use for this. I think your Corolla has rear leaf springs which I
don't think work as well as a 4 link rear suspension. It is hard to find
clean Starlets, I just brought one here from Phoenix a few months ago. I
used to have a '72 Corolla Red w. Black vinal top that had the 2TC in it
the engine has a lot of potential with its cross flow design. I can
pretty easily get about 100 hp from a 4KE (Starlet motor) even though it
is not cross flow and uses push rods.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
From: Monte 10-AUG-1995
Craig,
Thanks for the response.
Yeah, I used to talk to Ian McKenzie a number of years ago, as I bought
some stuff from Select Sales. Where is he now, do you know? I remember seeing
a picture of his Starlet. Talk about great looking. He had gotten some
fiberglasser to build up flares for it. Trick paint. Awhile back he said that
he had sold it to someone --maybe in the Carribean.
**And then (cough, cough) he switched over to racing Escorts!!** Maybe he's
come back.
Couple other areas, Craig, we seem to have like minds.
The 2T-C engine does have potential. Right now I'm running mine at
"165 hp" --not tested, just Ian's over the phone estimate some years back.
Details of the parts are listed in Fri.'s (just before yours) toyota-mods post.
It's a pushrod too, but it does flow well.
Also like your idea about the rear. Always hated the leaf spring setup
on the Corolla. As for a Starlet, that's something I want to look into in
great detail. Never even been in one.
Then there's the idea of where to get. I've been talking up a storm to
my wife about going to Arizona (first) or then Southern California, in search
of...
And that's exactly what you've been up to. Certainly figures.
So, anyone ever stuff a 2TC into a Starlet, first hand, that is?
Is it closer between the strut towers? You take away 1/2 in. and I
wouldn't be able to run the Mikuni side drafts with 4" K&N filters anymore
(which I would miss).
Monte
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 15:19:28 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Mods posting
Regarding the recent posting:
>>
>Name: John Page
>Location: Los Angeles, USA
>Model: 1994 Supra Turbo 6 speed
>Engine: turbo
>Mods: R1 racing tires
>email: godknows@aol.com
>>
I have also added Eibach springs and GAB adjustable shocks (for road racing).
Too bad there's such an absence of Supra TT postings. Seems like most of the
guys have other Toyota models! If you know of other TT guys (or gals) please
encourage them to get on the list. Of course there are a lot of postings on
the Supra listserv. It is really a tragedy that the TT has been cancelled!
Toyota finally made a really nasty car and they couldn't hold on to it!
Regards,
John Page
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Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 22:54:03 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Monte and Craig talking about 2T-C in a Starlet
Just a quick note...Those of you who have been on TM forever may remember
about 2 years ago or so when I talked about the guys from Miami who
came up to our track who were circle track racing several Toyotas,
including a Starlet with a 3TC. You may also remember that this guy
KILLED a field of about 30 or more ministockers, starting out on the
pole and finishing without ever being threatened 50 laps later.
I guess what I am saying is that I know of at least one case where
this worked quite well...
Chris
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Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 23:07:17 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods
>Date: Thu, 10 Aug 95 16:15:37 PDT
>From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca (Geoff Seeley)
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name: Geoff Seeley
>Location: Duncan, BC, Canada
>Model: 1991 Toyota MR2 turbo
>Engine: 3S-GTE
>Mods: HKS turbo timer IV, HKS PowerFlow, HKS Exhaust
> Redline 75w-90ns in tranny, Mobil-1 synthetic in engine.
> Pioneer 12-disc CD changer. Yokohoma AVS-i tires.
>Future: HKS Twin Power on order, next HKS EVC III and quick shifter kit.
> soon - 16" rims, GAB strut bars, 3 or 4 way saftey belts, etc. ;-)
>EMail: geoff@softwords.bc.ca
>Web: http://mr2.com/
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 11 Aug 95 16:01:57
Subject: Project 18-RG Report
It all started when a small Mazda Diesel pick-up truck (bed filled with office
furniture) blew me away at a stop light battle. Not much of a battle really;
although I did try to act like I let him win...
Since that day I was searching for more power. Then someone asked me if I
would be interested in a pair of Mikuni's for 4,000 pesos (us$200). The seller
was taking the carbs from her old 18-RG engine that been sitting on her garage
for almost a year. When I came to pick up the carb, she decided that she'll
give me the whole engine for the same amount of money. I couldn't resist,
the engine needed a new home...
The engine was in a very sorry state. It was very dirty on the outside and the
inside was much worse. The valve train was siezed, the timing chain had too
much slack, all the bearing were worn and the crank was scored. The pistons
were really ugly. Definitely time to rebuild the engine.
I left the engine at JLL Modifieds here in Manila. Then I was fortunate enough
that the company I work for sent me to the US. There I got in touch with
Chris Myer who got me all sorts of neat toys for a really very good price: TRD
plug wires, Velocity Stacks, K&N filters, Crane Ignition, shop manual --
learned a lot, saved some money too! Be sure to check with Chris before you
buy any 'stuff'.
In the meantime, JLL was busy working on the engine. The engine was machined,
balanced, ported, polished, painted.... The oil pump was modified to put out
more pressure and the distributor was rebuilt. The carbs were also rebuilt.
The clutch and pressure plate was replaced.
The engine was lowered into the car during the same weekend I flew back home.
I was hoping that i could go to the shop staight from the airport and pick-up
my car. That was not the case. The whole exhaust system still needed work.
A new one was installed by SMT Mufflers for around US$175. This included
4-into-1 headers and 2" pipes all the way back (no cat).... plus a resonator
and a free flow muffler.
A day later the exhaust was in place... but the carburator linkage was not.
JLL had raised the idle speed in the car and crawled the car to the muffler
shop. A new carb linkage had to be fabricated using some kind of cable.
At this point, JLL noticed that I was getting impatient so they gave me loaner
car -- a turbo '80 Corona Liftback with a 3T-GTE engine... but that's another
story.
A day later I took my car home. But not without any problems. First the
battery was not being charged. A quick trip to a local auto electrician
revealed that the wires leading to the alternator and the regulator were
connected incorrectly. That was fixed in a few minutes. But, the battery is
already old and cannot store the charge. So I had to buy a new one.
The air-conditioner compressor and the power steering pump were also not
installed because the brackets from the old 18-RC engine just won't work. My
old A/C compressor also won't work because its 'huge'. I had to buy a new
compressor and had an A/C shop fabricate some brackets. A day later I had
AC. But, the alternator is not charging again. The AC installer used one fan
belt to drive the AC compressor, the water pump, and the alternator. The
alternator was slipping under load. I took the AC compressor out of the loop
for the meantime. The AC shop need to figure something out this weekend when
I take it back.
The power steering pump is another problem. The distributor on the 18RG is
located in front of the engine, right next to the timing chain cover. Its
where the power steering pump should be. I'll find a solution to that one
soon. There some free space under the distributor near the oil pan, but
clearances will be tight since the engine mount is nearby.
I'm beginning to hate parallel parking on hot days!
Anyway, the break-in process wasn't without problems. First the engine would
'diesel' everytime I turn it off. I had to put the tranny in gear and let-out
the clutch when I turn the engine off. It would also intermittently idle rough
then smoothen out again. Sometimes it will idle so low that it just dies. Not
too good when you're stuck in Manila-style bumper to bumper traffic. I suspect
a vacuum leak somewhere. At least, the thing it doesn't overheat!
I sometimes catch myself wishing that I didn't go ahead with the engine swap;
usually when sitting in a hot car and/or when I'm trying to park. Just too
much headaches! You fix one thing, something else breaks. But I guess getting
'there' is half the fun. The words of my non-gearhead brother echoes in my
head -- "K.I.S.S. Keep it stock, stupid!"
Five hundred miles later, the head was re-torqued and the carbs were rejetted.
The Crane Ignition was also installed. Timing is now set at 40 degrees of
total advance at 3000 rpm. The 'dieseling' is now gone. I've stabbed the
acclerator several times; boy is this engine torquey or what? I have yet to
find an open stretch of road where I can explore the upper limits of the
engine. From what I've seen so far, I know I'll have a lot of fun.
I hope I see that Mazda pick-up soon!
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" <smtpcsar.csah.combtptan@nimajneb.temasek.net>
Subject: Re: Monte and Craig talking about 2T-C in a Starlet
To: temasek!csar!CyberAuto.Com!cmyer@ucbvax.berkeley.edu (Christopher Myer)
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 1995 13:40:13 +0800 (SST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods)
> Just a quick note...Those of you who have been on TM forever may remember
> about 2 years ago or so when I talked about the guys from Miami who
> came up to our track who were circle track racing several Toyotas,
> including a Starlet with a 3TC. You may also remember that this guy
> KILLED a field of about 30 or more ministockers, starting out on the
> pole and finishing without ever being threatened 50 laps later.
>
> I guess what I am saying is that I know of at least one case where
> this worked quite well...
Which "Starlet" are we talking about here?
ben
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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 1995 16:44:55 -0400
From: "Dick Byrd"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: A/C light blinks, no cooling
In message Wolverine
writes:
> Hello all. I have a problem with my A/C. Any time I try to turn on my
> A/C, it engages for a second or two, then disengages and the switch blinks.
> I brought to a mechanic and he wants to replace the speed sensor and
> recharge it for $200+. And he still says he's not sure what the problem is.
> This seems like a rip off. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any advice
> would be appreciated.
Dear Sherwin:
Connect a manifold and gage set to the high and low side acesss
valves. Use a clip-lead from the plus terminal of the battery to force
on the compressor. If the pressure rises very sharply on the high side
exceeding about 450 psi (depending on the ambient temp), your compressor
is cutting off because your high pressure switch doing what it is supposed
to do. Immediately disconnect the clip-lead. You have a clogged up system
- the first place to check is usually the thermostatic valve, bercause it
is the smallest orifrice in the system.
If there is low pressure on the high-side and a negative or *very*
low low-side pressure, the low pressure switch is doing its thing and
cutting off a system which has no freon in it, else the compressor would
sieze up because no lubricant would be circulated.
This test should isolate the problem. Good luck on getting your
hands on some R-12.
Dick
Stuff from Dick Byrd
byrd@mnsinc.com
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From: aarndt@sirius.uvic.ca (Aaron Arndt)
Subject: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 1995 13:52:38 -0700 (PDT)
Allo again all, just back from 2 weeks vacation. Was wondering where the
200 mail messages came from, then saw chris' mods postings :)
Speakin o' my vacation .. i tell ya .. I think i enjoyed whipping down
some of the backroads around here that i discovered, more than i enjoyed
getting to the places. Found some wonderful bits of road (for the few
locals on the list), between Kamloops and Bridge Lake via the Littlefort road, it just seemed to be a real nice pattern. A decent sized hill followed by 1-2
km of flat straight, mostly smooth pavement, with maybe a car or two in the way.
Turns out the real top end for speed on my car seems to be round 170kmh, and
unless i hit a crosswind seems fairly stable, i just love blowing by folks
at that rate :)
But my main whine/question now. We have this nice long section of round
(er road) around here called the Coquhalla, a 2/3 lane 110kmh limit roadway
winding through the mountains, however i found that even going up a mild grade
the little engine simply couldnt maintain even 100kmh in 5th, and it was a strugstruggle keeping 110 in 4th. I NEED MORE POWER. Can anyone fire me some good
ideas as to what i can do to free up or create more power from my little
4 cyl, or, alternately, suggest an engine i should swap in instead (not
that that would happen real soon, but id have something to work towards :)
Im going to take it in for a boxless k&n later this week, do a perf. exhaust
next month probably. was thinking some sort of cam or something further down
the road, but if you folks can suggest a better idea.
BTW .. Does anyone know if there is a short throw shifter made for an 83 Celica?
(and does anyone know if theres a way to add rear discs to the same car?)
Welcome to the list all new peoples, and especially to the fellow from Duncan
BC with the MR2 (sorry, deleted the note and i cant remember your name :).
While im running the Celica, my roomate has an 87 MR2 norm aspirated, and
I was wondering, for his sake, where do you get most of your work done?
Brett Fraser
83 Celica GT, 127000km on the 22RE. (with brand spankin new paintjob and
the stereo 90% installed)
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 00:18:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: EFI
Toyotas which utilize electronic fuel injection have a rev limiter built
into the EFI computer. When the maximum engine rpms are reached, there
is an abrupt cutoff which resembles extreme misfiring. This is even the
case on models in which the EFI computer does not control the ignition in
any way. Is there a simple way to disable the rev-limiter function of the
computer?
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: "James O'Brien"
Subject: 4AGE in TE72.... finally
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 14:04:28 +0800 (WST)
Hi again,
Well, I got my car back on Friday after it had been sitting in a local importers
for two weeks, while they removed my old 3T-C engine and replaced it with a 4A-GE
imported from Japan in a 1988 rear drive Corona.
So now my T-18 (TE-72 chassis) has a 4A-GE (with TVIS), Finer Filter, one piece
tailshaft, Corona gearbox and 2 1/4" exhaust with two Turbo mufflers.
Also as a bonus, I brought home the front cut that they imported the engine in and
as a result I managed to salvage a brake booster, headlights and fog lights, a front
spoiler (which I am yet to fit) and the complete front suspension of the Corona,
complete with power steering gear, disc brakes, struts, springs etc. I also kept a
couple of panels for future rust repairs.
Also as an added bonus I also have a complete air conditioning unit sitting in my
shed waiting for the time and money so that it can be installed into mine.
Along with that I also have sitting in my shed an 3TC motor and Celica gearbox.
The parts on this would be useful for anyone in W.A or anywhere else in Aust. who has
a T-18 or anything with a 2T motor in it.
So if you want any of it give me a yell. Anyone who has any idea what this would
be worth, could you also please drop me a note as I would be interested in selling
it privately or as a last resort to a wrecker. It ahs been suggested that I sell the
cross-member / suspension combination from the Corona in one hit to try to get the
most for it and also to make it easier to free up some space in my shed.
All I need now is a workshop manual for the 4A-GE (anyone got one they don't want?)
and a nice quiet weekend in the country on the roads around my parent's farm......
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Save the Whales .... Collect the whole set.
James O'Brien (obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au)
Temporary student (for another semester anyway)
Are cats supposed to go 'thump' when you dry them in the dryer ?
My opinions are my own. My University has no idea what I am doing.
Come to think of it, neither do I.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 22:01:19 -0700
From: Tony Lanterman
To: aarndt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
>83 Celica GT, 127000km on the 22RE. (with brand spankin new paintjob and
>the stereo 90% installed)
What color? :-)
>(and does anyone know if theres a way to add rear discs to the same car?)
The general consesus I've heard on this one was that if you're dead
set on doing it the best way would be to find an '82-85 Celica GTS
and get the whole rear end set-up off it. That way you end up with
the disk brakes as well as the indipendant rear suspension.
After having mine up in the mountains all weekend (stock Celica
suspensions do _not_ like washer-board gravel roads) I understand
the cruising power complaint. With the thin air it was starting
to feel slow.
Woodsprite
**********************************************************************
* * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite *
* Commuting is * * Unsafe at any speed *
* my life * I don't drive * *
* * fast. * lantera@teleport.com *
* * I fly low. * lanteran@xanth.cs.orst.edu *
* Where's Julie? * * dod #1456 *
* * 72 Honda CB350 * *
**********************************************************************
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Subject: Re: 4AGE in TE72.... finally
To: obrienja@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (James O'Brien)
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 22:59:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: poetma00
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Hi James,
Welcome to the net.
>
> So now my T-18 (TE-72 chassis) has a 4A-GE (with TVIS), Finer Filter, one piece
> tailshaft, Corona gearbox and 2 1/4" exhaust with two Turbo mufflers.
What a nice powertrain combination you got there. I also am working on
putting a 4AGx engine and currently am looking for a good transmission.
As I understand, corona comes standard with R series engines, which uses W
series transmission. How did you manage to put the engine together with
that trans ? Did you take the bellhousing from the old engine and put the
corona transmission to it? Could you tell us more about other modifications
you had to do (i.e., ECU, ignition, clutch, etc.) ?
Thanks,
~~~
Mark Poetiray
~~~
> Also as a bonus, I brought home the front cut that they imported the engine in and
> as a result I managed to salvage a brake booster, headlights and fog lights, a front
> spoiler (which I am yet to fit) and the complete front suspension of the Corona,
> complete with power steering gear, disc brakes, struts, springs etc. I also kept a
> couple of panels for future rust repairs.
>
> Also as an added bonus I also have a complete air conditioning unit sitting in my
> shed waiting for the time and money so that it can be installed into mine.
>
> Along with that I also have sitting in my shed an 3TC motor and Celica gearbox.
> The parts on this would be useful for anyone in W.A or anywhere else in Aust. who has
> a T-18 or anything with a 2T motor in it.
>
> So if you want any of it give me a yell. Anyone who has any idea what this would
> be worth, could you also please drop me a note as I would be interested in selling
> it privately or as a last resort to a wrecker. It ahs been suggested that I sell the
> cross-member / suspension combination from the Corona in one hit to try to get the
> most for it and also to make it easier to free up some space in my shed.
>
> All I need now is a workshop manual for the 4A-GE (anyone got one they don't want?)
> and a nice quiet weekend in the country on the roads around my parent's farm......
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Save the Whales .... Collect the whole set.
>
> James O'Brien (obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au)
> Temporary student (for another semester anyway)
>
> Are cats supposed to go 'thump' when you dry them in the dryer ?
>
> My opinions are my own. My University has no idea what I am doing.
> Come to think of it, neither do I.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 01:31:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: kiksta@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (Seth Willenberg)
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Here's some info on me:
Name : Seth Willenberg
Location: Austin, TX
Model : 1992 MR2 turbo, T-tops
Engine : (3SGTE)2.0 Liter, 16 valve, DOHC, Turbocharged (Twin-entry) -
capable of producing up to 11.8 psi of boost - produces 200 hp
at 6000rpm, and 200lb-ft of torque at 3000rpm (in stock form).
Color : silver-charcoal (metallic)
Mods : Current:
modified turbocharger
high performance exhaust/intake
16" 3-piece steel/alloy wheels
215/40 high performance tires
running synthetics, etc...
Coming Soon:
Twin-turbo module
email : kiksta@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: EFI
To: terlau@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Craig A Terlau)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 00:24:51 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> Toyotas which utilize electronic fuel injection have a rev limiter built
> into the EFI computer. When the maximum engine rpms are reached, there
> is an abrupt cutoff which resembles extreme misfiring. This is even the
> case on models in which the EFI computer does not control the ignition in
> any way. Is there a simple way to disable the rev-limiter function of the
> computer?
Do ALL Toyotas with EFI really have a rev limiter? I know that I either
don't have one or it's not working - I got accidentally up to 8200rpm
while trying (and failing) to get the 2nd gear in and didn't experience
any fuel cutoff despite the factory redline being either 6500 or 7000rpm.
I know that this feature has not been intentionally tampered. Most
Toyota EFI's before 1984 are analog devices, newer ones have a
8051 or 8031 series microcontroller, I believe. On the MR2 list
somebody (with 4A-GE engins) had succesfully replaced the oscillator
with one with higher frequency, which raises the redline in direct
proportion to the change in oscillator frequency. Which engine
are we talking about here?
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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To: Kalalahti Matti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: EFI
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 15:00:54 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> Kalalahti Matti writes:
> I got accidentally up to 8200rpm
> while trying (and failing) to get the 2nd gear in
So, you blipped the throttle but didn't get the gear engaged, so the
revs went way up?
Of course, if you shift a gear to low for your current speed, you'll
overrev the engine because the drivetrain will speed it up.
I've hit the rev limiter on my 1986 MA61 Supra. The revs topped out
at 7400rpm or so. I was too busy to see exactly. The official red
line is at 6500rpm.
> Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
Dan.
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To: Kalalahti Matti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 95 09:14:52 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
>>I own a 1975 Toyota Corolla 2dr Sedan (that's right, not much of a
>>performance car).
> The diff is the 6.38" I believe. Very weak. I put a new one
> in & it developed backlash in about 2 weeks (well, I did redline
> in 1st & slammed it into 2nd, so I guess there is a reason for it).
Hey, that's normal driving!
:-)
>Heh, how serious do ya wanna get =)
>
> Not sure yet :-). Put it this way, I'm even sorta considering
> a Nissan SR20DET or 3S-GTE! For various reasons I don't think
> I'll being using these though. Overkill really, along with a
> temptation to use the power.
Why would you want a fast car if you weren't going to USE the power?
Because :-
1) I may be tempted to use it in the wrong situations
2) I don't want to lose my licence
3) Other drivers really don't expect you to be here one minute & there
the next, plus they invariably drive to closely behind & many
wouldn't have much hope stopping in the distance that I can.
>Did you consider camber adjustment plates ?
>
> I thought they were going to include these but it didn't happen.
> Tyres are dead flat to the ground (0 deg camber) at the moment.
> Time will tell if this is a good thing (will most likely go for
> a degree or two of neg camber, either adjustable or via a strut
> bend).
Are those the only two choices? (Ok, I won't even consider
the bending option for me).
They don't actually bend the strut insert itself I believe. Another
choice would be to modify the lower arms to bring out the bottom of
the strut (have spoken to someone who's done this).
At any rate, my current camber is theoretically spot on for even tyre
wear in street driving. In practice however, i find that the outside
of the left tyre wears more quickly. Will see what happens with the
new setup.....
>Twin spot calipers huh =) Neat =) I want a set =)
>
> I'm not sure if they are twin-spot or not. Was told they are
> though. These are a bolt-in fit for the KE series Corolla's.
>From what model are those calipers?
Corona RT142 (5dr liftback). I checked this out recently & they are
in fact twin-piston per side.
>>As far as the rear-end goes, it seems the logical choice would be a
>disc braked Sprinter rear (GTS corolla in th US).
>
>Yes, I agree totally.
Yup, that's been done numerous times.
>As you say handling is important to you, however, what is your
>driving style ?
>
>I do belive in safe driving, although I enjoy reasonable "spirited street
>driving" on occasion.
>
> I do like the feeling of taking a perfect line thru a corner at
> speed. Just a frustrated racer at heart I guess! To me this is
> more fun than absolute speed.
The most enjoyable driving for me are the twisty countryroads,
at speeds between 120 and 180km/h, taking every curve right to the
limit while balancing the car with both steering and throttle, and
then slamming the throttle wide open when coming out of the corner,
and the weight shift plants the rear tyres firmly to the asphalt...
Yeah, this is fun :-)
This will also result in the drivers licence staying with me,
which travelling always above 200km/h+ down the highways might not ;)
>Basically right now it seems to be a decision weither or not to turbo.
>Thats one of the first points, since you list the 3T-GTE, and the 1G-GE
>motor, however don't list the 1G-GTE motor.
>
> Hey, at around 185Kw I may as well put wings on the car & use
> it as a plane :-). Once again though, this is a possibility.
I think 1G-GTE is an excellent engine if you're NOT going to start heavily
modifying the engine. If you are, it would be a choice between
7M-GTE or 3S-GTE.
>Basically you want a non-turbo motor, so you don't have to worry about
>the "boost comming in at the wrong times" or such.
>Its a lot easier to race with a non-turbo motor that the power curves
>are "predictable". However this also means no "raw horsepower" stretchs
>and a disadvantage on "pulling" power on straight aways.
There are no predictability problems with turbo engines, you just need
to learn the behavior of your engine. Boost gauge is IMHO as important
as tach... If you're serious about racing, you want to modify either
your power curve or gearing so that you won't drop out of your peak
power rpms when on the track.
> Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
now I need to learn that once again...
One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
David Coulthard ;)
True, but it does make things worse. Then again, tyres make all the
difference. The car wasn't mine & although the tyres had enough
tread depth, I think they were old & hence quite hard. Plus, they
weren't overly good tyres to start with.
>Also, are you going to keep the fuel injection ? Or go carbs ?
>
> EFI all the way. Either a Haltec or Electromotive. Any comments
> on either of these?
Don't have first hand experience with either. But for a car for streets
too, I wouldn't even think about replacing EFI with carbs...
>The 4AGE motor is a GOOD all around motor in which I belive in the
>multi-valve techonology. The main kicker is the price in which to
>build one.
>
> Well, current prices for an Import here in Aust, last time I
> checked, was about $1000 for Engine & 'Box. Not too bad.
About $1000 here too... less than half what you'd have to pay
for 3T-GTE here.
>I do like the 3T-TGE motor, and it works DAMM well. No complaints, just
>I'd rather go with techonology with a multi valve motor. Thats my
>thought about or the only complaint I have about t-series motors,
>however the Hemi design and proven "indestructable" bottom end
>is hard to ignore. You can't argue with over 20 years of reliable
>performance =)
>
> True. Good point. Especially with a turbo, intake valve area
> isn't as much of an issue as with an Atmo engine.
I'm not sure if my engines head is stock, but in my case I think
52mm intake valves aren't going to be the first bottleneck.
>You mention the 1G-GE motor. Personally, you can't mess with this motor
>and its reputation.
>
> I haven't checked this out, but I don't think it came out in
> any car over here, except for maybe older Cressida's.
>
> They're cheap though -- how does $295 for a 2nd-hand import
> sound?
$295???? What's the catch? I'd be building Corollas with those
engines for living if I could get them that cheap ;)
>I WANT a 1G-GTE motor myself, to shove in my 1980 Corolla, and been trying
>to get my hands on one... get me a price quote =)
>
> Someone here was selling one for about $1800 tricked up, with
> Auto 'box, no computer. He had it in his '84 (?) Supra I think.
> 185kW! Bolt-in fit! Jealous yet :-) ?
No computer... how on earth do at least half of the used engines
come without it? Do they weld those things apart so carelessly
that they usually fry the computers?
Computers are available, but usually cost extra. They are usually
left behind when the engine's removed I guess. A half-cut would
include it though.
>>It would appear that the 4AG would be the most appropriate here as
>>it's the lightest (less weight over the front end).
>>However, I'm not sure I'll be happy with the power.
>
>Do you plan major mods with the motor ? Or keeping it "basically stock"
>Its a decent motor, and good all around. The power is there and its crisp.
>
> Just slight mods, nothing much internally at this stage.
> Drivability is an issue for the street. I'm looking for
> something that will be pretty much right power-wise from
> the start. Rather than get an engine & later mod it, I'd
> prefer to get a bigger & more powerful engine to start with.
> Then again, you always end up wanting more .....
You'd probably find the 4A-GE's 112hp not enough for you...
Once you would get into modifying it you'd reach its reliable
power output quickly. It's just a 1.6 liter engine after all,
and it can't handle over 170hp without a lot of expensive
modifications (rods, bolts, pistons, lifters etc).
You can get over 200hp out of these, but it will cost you
an arm and a leg, at the very least...
>I'm happy in switching to the 4AG motor from a T-series motor, however
>I cringe at the thought of it blowing up -shrug-
You won't blow it unless you try to run it above 8500 rpm or so
for extended periods with stock lifters & springs.
The above was Allen & not me (PM). From what I can see, the 4AG is
very reliable.
>>Has anyone heard much about the 20-Valve 4AGE with variable Valve Timing?
>>I can have one of these imported but it will cost about $4000
>>(a bit too much).
>
>I belive thats the Apex Twin Cam motor, 5 vavles per cylinder that
>comes with the Levins.
>
> Does that mean they come into the US? If so, what are they like?
I'd like to hear more about them too. Please?
Yes, once again, any info on the 20-Valve version is welcome.
>>As far as the 3T-GTEU, I think it may place too much weight over
>>the front-end,hence reducing handling.
Might be a problem as such a light car that you have, but that's the
case for all your alternatives except 4A-GE. Actually ANY engine
will be heavier than your 3K... So move the battery to the back,
maybe see if you can lighten up the front bumper, get rid of possible
oil pan armour...
Yep, well I plan to put a boxed sub-woofer in the rear (removable)
& I usually try to keep the fuel tank full to help weight distribution.
Good thing about the tank is that it's over the back wheels.
Weight past the wheels isn't too good for handling from what I can
see -- true?
>I do belive the 3T-GTE motor sits lower then the others.
>
> That would be a bonus. Also, room for a strut brace!
Barely. There isn't that much room to spare. I measured the maximum
dimensions for the engine, height=66cm, width=68cm, length=68cm
(with viscous fan).
Yes, BIG engine in a small space!
>>Also, what sort of lag does this engine have?
>
>Lag can be reduced by techonology, blow off valves, fuel computers,
>etc etc.
>
> This will also be taken into account. It's just that in the Turbo
> I drove, I found the lag a bit annoying when cornering -- when I
> want power I want it *NOW*.
<2000rpm - avoid
2000-3000rpm - ok for driving, but no ohmigod power
but once you get to 3000-4000rpm the turbo will keep peak power
up to 7000rpm redline... stay above 4000rpm and the lag won't bother
you. Have a look at my WWW page for torque/power
curves, or I can send the .gif to you uuencoded if you want.
Yep, have checked this out -- much good info. Your Carina looks
similar to what we call a T-18. I think the Carina is a bit bigger
& hevaier though -- the 3T-GTE looks like it belongs in there.
BTW, cool music tastes.
>>Apparently the 3T is easily capable of 200hp.
>
>Yes, it is VERY capable of such numbers, and with relability.
Yes, from 4200rpm to near redline... and that's without an intercooler
(getting one soon, I hope)!
>>Sounds nice, but is the lag & weight penalty worth it?
For me, hell yes!
(But I got 50-50 weight distribution with 2/3 full fuel tank).
I don't think it would be the same in my case. Check out the car when
Chris puts the pix on the Web site.
>>Also, how reliable are they (proper maintenance>& Idle-down being a given)?
>
>They are very realible, I belive. I've only worked with one turbo model, and
>that basically was a custom modification. However, if you do proper
>turbo "mechanics" you won't encounter any other problems.
Keep the mixture rich enough and don't shut it off with red-hot turbo.
Those two given - very very reliable. Rev limiter might not be a bad
idea though, I got to 8200rpm when having a disagreement with the
2nd gear synchros - no ill effects thank god.
Yep, the above is a given. I happen to have a spare Turbo Timer
sitting at home too.
> Yes, it will be all done professionally. Apparently, to actually
> mount the engine in the bay, only the turbo side mount needs
> to be moved. Remember, we didn't get the 2T engine out here.
We did so we have plenty of engine bays in Carinas, Celicas and Corollas
with T-series mounts ;)
Sorry, I meant we didn't see the T series engines in our Corolla's.
We too had them in Celica's, but never saw the Carina.
>>The 1GGE would have great torque I'd imagine, but what does it rev like?
>>Is this engine even heavier than a 3T-GTE?
>
>I do belive its a bit heavier then the 3T motor, however, the power from
>the motor and the torque from sheer displacement would be worth it.
>
>I do belive its a 2.5 block.
>
> If you mean capacity, the 1GGE is 2.0 L I think (but I could
> be wrong).
Definately it is just 1988cc engine. So peak torque is only 134lbft
vs the 152lbft of stock 3T-GTE or my 245lbft ;)
1G-GTE has 203lbft. For more info, see the engines list on my WWW
pages.
I don't think the weight penalty warrants it. After speaking to the
guys who did my brakes a week ago, I'm leaning more towards the 4AG
again. They have seen a fair few on the track (in Corolla's & T-18's).
"Very Quick" was their expression. They think that something like
a 3T-GTE would ruin the handling. Less weight over the front the
better they say. They are also getting an engine builder in who used
to be a race mechanic for BMW's JPS team here in Aust. So, I will
most likely get everything done there -- Engine Conversion, EFI, Rear
Brakes/Suspension etc.
Also, since these aren't "Toyota" guys particularly, I may even
consider (SHOCK! HORROR!) a Nissan SR20 -- low weight as it's all
alloy. I actually drove a Pulsar with one of these for a week &
liked it.
>>Finally, it would seem that the 3SGE would probably fit my purposes best --
>>power, weight, responsiveness etc. taken into account.
>>Comments?
To summarize my recommendation for your engine:
I think 3S-GE would be the best naturally aspirated engine in your case.
If you decide you want more (turbocharged) power, I'd say 3S-GTE
is your best choice if you have the $$$$'s. If not, go for the
3T-GTE. Those sixes are just too large and heavy for a Corolla,
if handling is an issue...
>>For Gearbox, I'd imagine my choices are a RWD Corolla box to fit the 4AGE
>>(once again Sprinter/Corolla GTS).
>>For the rest, a Supra box would be the go.
Absolutely correct.
>>Comments?
>
>The T-50 trans is easily fitted to all of the motors as you say.
>Perhaps find a wrecked Levin and take parts from it ?
>
> Well, for a start, the only Levin's in Aust are personnal imports
> for racing purposes. They don't meet Aust design rules, hence
> can't be registered for road use without mods.
>
> The T-50 'box is the Corolla RWD 'box?
T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
engines and 3T-GTE.
What 'boxes mate up to the 4AG apart from the T-50?
>>Also, would a 3.9 'diff ratio be most appropriate for the "torqueier"
>>engines, whilst a 4.1 would be better for a 4AGE? Cruising rev's & fuel
~5% won't make a huge difference, but I agree with you.
>>economy is an issue here as well (but performance is No. 1 priority :-).
>
>Depends on your motor set up also. Power curves etc etc, proably a turbo
>motor would suit you the best in the long run.
When I changed from 4.1 to 3.727 I lost nothing in acceleration, but
got more relaxed cruising revs (4080rpm@140km/h is typical for me).
I do have to downshift to make a 100% efficient pass more often
though, so 3rd and 4th gear see more use now...
> Too true. The turbo I drove was good like that. Docile in
> traffic, but plant the right foot & away you go. Lined up a
> Suzuki RGV 250 bike one day ('coz a mate of mine used to always
> brag about how no car could out-accelerate him on his). Result :
> Commodore VS Suzuki : TIE. Gee that car was quick ....
Motorbikes seem to be the only vehicles I get to stoplight race
anymore... others are rarely of any competition at all.
>Nah nah nah, I think we need to know what type of club racing
>and what sorta daily driving habits you have with this vehicle.
>
> Hopefully I've given you more of an idea. I'll have to think
> about this some more & find out more about the types of
> circuits I'm likely to see. As far as I know, it will be all
> types -- tight ones hard on brakes & needing good handling, along
> with open ones where power is more of an issue. Just to confuse
> matters more.
If the circuits you will race are very slow (most of the time below
50mph or so) a naturally aspirated engine will have a significant
advantage. Otherwise, go for a turbo...
My guess, after speaking to the guys that did my brakes, is that the
circuits rely a lot on handling & are tight. Will have to actually
ask them though (I asked them about everything else!).
> Guess I'm after the perfect car huh :-> .
Aren't we all ;) Anyone have a Supra TT or Celica GT-4 or MR2 Turbo
to donate to a good home? =)
MR2 would be my choice. Send to Peter Mejak 59 Su...... :-)
>I guess AC is not an important issue ?
>
> I would like to fit this eventually. May be a bit of a space
> problem if I get the 3T. Rest of the engines, should be ok.
> I've seen pictures of 3T's into this car -- tight squeeze.
I don't have much space under the hood or my Carina either, but I know
that many people have stuffed the AC in there.
>I would personally go with techonology and a turbo.
>Multi valve motor plus turbo.
I'd find it hard to drive a car without a turbo anymore, I got
addicted to the (mid/high-range) power...
Yep, I know. I'm currently driving a Datsun 120Y (B210 in the US?).
Let's just say that it makes me appreciate what I had in the Corolla!
It all depends what you get used to.
Welcome to the list and good luck with your project!
Thanks Matti, & thanks for taking the time to reply.
BTW, sounds like a few people have recently joined the list & have
done what I plan to do, in Aust. Any of you new guys care to comment
on your cars? Or need some performance tips for them?
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: EFI
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 03:28:12 +0300 (EET DST)
> > I got accidentally up to 8200rpm
> > while trying (and failing) to get the 2nd gear in
>
> So, you blipped the throttle but didn't get the gear engaged, so the
> revs went way up?
Yup. After changing the diff I decided to also try testing the
performance without most of the exhaust system (left just the part
down from the turbo to the first muffler in place). It was LOUD!
Bearable for <5 minutes, but after that it gave a headache...
Anyway, after making a couple of recorded test runs (10mph->130mph,
a couple of 2nd and 3rd gear 2000->7000rpm) I decided to try
launching from dead stop (I still had those cursed Dunlop D40's then)
with everything going on tape for analyzing later: 5000rpm, drop the
clutch, spin both rear tyres through the first gear up to 7300rpm
(oops), then tried to do a regular fast shift to 2nd gear, but it
did NOT go in, and by this time my right foor had laready gotten
on the acclerator expecting the 2nd gear to be already in as
it was supposed to be. Result: grinding the 2nd gear and setting
the new record rpm for my engine at 8200rpm... All the noise because
of the missing exhaust contributed to me not noticing the missed shift.
Sometimes I have hard time at getting the next gear when I'm near redline,
but it doesn't happen all the time. I suspect the clutch hydraulics...
(synchros might be somewhat worn too)
> Of course, if you shift a gear to low for your current speed, you'll
> overrev the engine because the drivetrain will speed it up.
Nah, I've never done that. I tend to watch at my guages before
shifting.
> Dan.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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To: Kalalahti Matti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: EFI
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 17:48:45 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> Kalalahti Matti writes:
> Nah, I've never done that. I tend to watch at my guages before
> shifting.
Hmmn. Guess I'm not as on top of things as you! Last week I
downshifted my 4Runner to 2nd at about 65mph, which was not a good
move. No apparent damage, though. I was desperate to get
acceleration and didn't think it through.
> Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
Dan.
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 20:20:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: EFI
Thank you for your response to my question Matti! I should have been
more specific. Can you provide me with information on disabling the
rev-limiter on an 83-84 Starlet 4KE with EFI? I guess this one contains
the pre-1984 analog computer you refered to in your response.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 20:28:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Muffler
My Starlet uses a 4-2-1 header from Martilias in Finland. The output
from the header is 2.25 inches. I have run it into a 2.5 inch exhaust
which goes over the rear axle, is hung from two rubber doughnuts at the
highest point above the rear axle (very solid place to hang from), and
terminates in a straight through 2.5 inch muffler. It revs freely and
seems to work very well, but is very loud!
Can anyone suggest a way to minimize noise in a 2.5 inch exhaust system
while utalizing straight through mufflers? Would it help if I placed a
second straight through muffler after the header? What about a
resinator, what is the function of those things?
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: Muffler
To: terlau@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Craig A Terlau)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 11:49:36 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> My Starlet uses a 4-2-1 header from Martilias in Finland. The output
> from the header is 2.25 inches. I have run it into a 2.5 inch exhaust
> which goes over the rear axle, is hung from two rubber doughnuts at the
> highest point above the rear axle (very solid place to hang from), and
> terminates in a straight through 2.5 inch muffler. It revs freely and
> seems to work very well, but is very loud!
I think that 2.5" is too big, especially if your collector is only 2.25"
My system ends in 2.5" collector off the TRD headers, to a 2.25" cat conv.
and 2.25" pipe to a 2.25" resonator, and then 2" from there through a 2"
turbo style (triple flow) muffler. As the gases get further from the source,
they cool down and so loose mass, the smaller sizes are to keep the velocity
up.
>
> Can anyone suggest a way to minimize noise in a 2.5 inch exhaust system
> while utalizing straight through mufflers? Would it help if I placed a
> second straight through muffler after the header? What about a
> resinator, what is the function of those things?
run a resonator before the muffler. The resonator is basically a straight
through resonator. I use the turbo style muffler, and its configuration
(offset/centre) got rid of the boom in the cabin. My system is quiet loud, but
not too overbearing, certainly a lot quieter than a lot of other cars.
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 21:55:51 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
Ah, a question I can answer! How to make your 83 Celica sing.
1. Get a decent 20R head.
-Remove air injection tubes (drill and plug holes.)
-Valve Job
-Do a "clean-up" surfacing (Not looking for a compr gain.)
-Install some good performance valve springs
-New rockers if the old ones are ugly. Aluminum if you
really want to rock and roll.
2. Get a good cheap header (Pacesetter, about $80.) and a performance
exhaust.
3. Get a set of Mikuni Sidedrafts (Your "big expense")
4. Get a good regrind cam.
5. Bolt everything up. Degree the cam, tune the carbs, shim up the oil
pump for a little more pressure.
Now, this is the cheap way to go, short term. When that extra 50 hp
throws a rod through through the side of the block, you'll probably
holler at me. So, I would recommend completely preparing the bottom-
end before doing all of this:
Have the rods and crank magnafluxed as a minimum. I'd recommend going
ahead and having it stress relieved, baked, shotpeened, and balanced.
Put everything back together with a new timing chain kit (including
an adjustable timing chain sprocket) and .5mm overbore 10.5:1 compression
pistons. Now you're up to at or above 180 hp, and something that might
hurt the feelings of a stock Mustang GT if you catch it running a little
out of tune. With the additional compression, you'd be well advised to
throw on a good MSD 6 ignition and some Magnecor wires. LC engineering
recommends tossing the stock distributor for a Mallory HyFire performance
ignition, but I really don't know if that's necessary.
Oh, and this setup will embarass even a well tuned GT if you put a
very low-geared differential in.
Of course, I've just spent about $2000 of your money at this point. But
hey, you can't take it with you when you go, so you may as well buy some-
thing that can impress your friends while you're here!
Chris
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 22:02:39 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Resending this blounce!
(From Paul, actually. I'm just resending. See the h*lp in the included
text?)--chris
>On Mon, 14 Aug 1995, Craig A Terlau wrote:
>
>> Can anyone suggest a way to minimize noise in a 2.5 inch exhaust system
>> while utalizing straight through mufflers? Would it h*lp if I placed a
>> second straight through muffler after the header? What about a
>> resinator, what is the function of those things?
>
>I am running a 2.5 inch exhaust on my KE-25 with two resonators between
>the end of the extractors and the diff loop and a single stright through
>muffler at the rear. The resonators essentially brake up the sound as it
>travels through the pipe and this seems to have worked well on my car
>(albeit a tight squeeze underneath!)
>
>Cheers,
>
> Paul.
>------------------------------------------------------------
> Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
> Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
> B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
> Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 22:08:29 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Muffler
>My system ends in 2.5" collector off the TRD headers, to a 2.25" cat conv.
>and 2.25" pipe to a 2.25" resonator, and then 2" from there through a 2"
>turbo style (triple flow) muffler. As the gases get further from the source,
>they cool down and so loose mass, the smaller sizes are to keep the velocity
>up.
Man, ya gotta love a guy that understands flow! Anybody got a good
text on fluid dynamics or anything? I'm looking for one. I am
convinced that most of these guys that flow/port heads are just hackers
that assume bigger is better. We need a good lecture here--any
mechanical engineers up to the task? Come on, don't be shy!
Chris
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