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^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
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^^^ P O S T I N G S Aug 1995 ^^^
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 23:17:08 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: All OK after Hurricane
Well, I lived through another hurricane. (Wait, we do get to some
Toyota stuff in a bit...) The hurricane itself was pretty wimpy, but
the rain that followed it was impressive. We got about 10" of rain
in one day. For a place that is already a swamp, that is a lot!
Since my power had been out for about 15 hours, I decided to take the
4x4 out and play in the puddles. I hadn't even cranked it in about 2
or 3 months, so I took the battery out of the mazda-rati and put it
in the Toyota. Cranked up like a champ.
Had a blast crashing through flooded streets, until I got to one
that was so bad that you had to look at the street signs at each
intersection to see if you were about to drive into a canal. What looked
like a 4 way stop was several times actually just road one way and
a canal crossing under, errr, over the road. Everything was great
until that wave came over the hood when I tried to take one very
flooded street too fast. Luckily, it was getting more shallow as I
stalled the truck, and when I opened the door to dry the distributor
it was about 1" below the frame of the door.
To make a long story short I sucked up a LOT of water. Took a long
time to restart, and then was VERY rough running. When I (barely)
got back home, I completely pulled the carb apart and cleaned it.
Threw it back together, and it ran better than it had before the deep-
water incident. Cool.
Now, however, it's spitting and sputtering again. Hmmmm... No water
in the fuel, I've checked that. Intake is dry (after I pulled out the
water-soaked air filter!) I shot the carb full of carb cleaner again
and am letting it sit overnight. We'll see how it is doing in the
morning.
How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
This surely did make me rethink my upcoming project to put side
draft carbs on there. I would have gotten killed with those. I'm
now planning a mod where I build a plastic air intake box that will pull
in air through a hole in the hood. It will have a grill that can be
removed and snorkels attached to give me another 12" of clearance.
Any ideas? On the hesitation, the side drafts, the snorkels, etc? We
sure need some traffic on this channel!
Chris
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 09:48:37 +0500
From: toyota@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jonathan Hacker (Toyota))
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
> How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
> after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
> engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
> thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
>
> This surely did make me rethink my upcoming project to put side
> draft carbs on there. I would have gotten killed with those. I'm
> now planning a mod where I build a plastic air intake box that will pull
> in air through a hole in the hood. It will have a grill that can be
> removed and snorkels attached to give me another 12" of clearance.
>
> Any ideas? On the hesitation, the side drafts, the snorkels, etc? We
> sure need some traffic on this channel!
I hope you didn't bend something when you sucked that much water in!
I would run a compression test just to be sure.
Jon
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: WTF: T-Series Motor goes 15 seconds ?
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Allen T "Koji" Kam)
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 13:35:29 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> My friends are claiming they built this guys car.
>
> Okie its a 1978 Corolla SR-5
> 3TC Motor
>
> (Yes RD, its Deans car)
>
> They claim its just a stock bottom half, they just told me
> its been blueprinted, and super secret head work.
>
> What do they know that I Don't ?
>
> I Don't know it ALL but this to me is impossible...i didn't see it run by myself
> but others claim to.
>
> Anyone got any ideas ?
It doesn't sound impossible to me. A '78 Corolla weighs only about
1900 lbs, so a 15 second 1/4 mile time would only require about
150hp or so (plus good tyres, clutch, driver ;)
150hp from 1.77l engine with ported head, good cam and proper
exhaust & intake systems doesn't sound impossible at all.
You need to get it all exactly right, though ;)
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: Gary Hong
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 4:16:30 PDT
>How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
>after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
>engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
>thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
Hiya Chris,
After reading about your fun in the water, I was laughing.
Ever heard of hydraulic lock? :) Hope you didn't ruin/bend any rods/valves. :(
Gary
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To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 09:27:43 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) writes:
> To make a long story short I sucked up a LOT of water. Took a long
> time to restart, and then was VERY rough running.
You might have been better off not trying. People have broken
pistons, blocks, heads, etc. by sucking water into the engines of
4x4s.
> Threw it back together, and it ran better than it had before the deep-
> water incident. Cool.
Guess it just needed a good internal washing!
> This surely did make me rethink my upcoming project to put side
> draft carbs on there. I would have gotten killed with those.
I'm not a power junky when I'm driving my 4x4, and it'll almost
certainly get an ARB snorkel in the next couple years. The snorkel
itself is about $350, but requires a 3" hole in the sheetmetal. A
somewhat cheaper alternative is to run 3" (or so) hose from the intake
to the firewall, to somewhat raise the intake height, and get it out
of the splash area.
> Any ideas? On the hesitation, the side drafts, the snorkels, etc? We
> sure need some traffic on this channel!
If you really want to deep water, I'd fab a complete snorkel that runs
up the A-pillar. Have you installed diff breathing tubes?
Also, since you drove through deep water and stopped, I'd seriously
consider draining a refilling both diffs. When you stopped, the diffs
cooled and may have sucked water in. When you keep moving, they stay
warm and tend not to, but it is only a tendency. Toyota puts valves
on the diffs, but I'm not sure they're sufficient in themselves to
handle prolonged deep immersion.
There's a small chance you got water in the tranny/x-case, but the
Toyota seems to breathe near the shift lever, and it doesn't sound
like you got that deep.
Also, grease all the grease points in the drivetrain.
> Chris
Dan.
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Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 09:43:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
To: cmyer ,
>>How much water did it get? Well, I could _barely_ turn the engine over
>>after it stalled. Took about 15 tries to get enough water out of the
>>engine so that the battery could turn the engine over normally. (Funny
>>thing about water, it just doesn't want to compress!)
>After reading about your fun in the water, I was laughing.
>Ever heard of hydraulic lock? :) Hope you didn't ruin/bend any rods/valves.
:(
To prevent this type of damage, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine
over to expel the water from the cylinders. This is common practice with
personal watercraft (Jetskis, Seadoos, etc) when they take in water.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 22:21:54 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: All OK after Hurricane
>After reading about your fun in the water, I was laughing.
>Ever heard of hydraulic lock? :) Hope you didn't ruin/bend any rods/valves.
Oh, I was completely aware of what was happening. Fortunately, the motor
seems to be doing fine. No big deal even so, since I was about to pull
the motor and rebuild it anyway. I already have the head and sidedrafts
set aside, I just need to get to it.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Subject: W50 for 4AG ?
To: Toyota-Mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 00:47:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: poetma00
Hi guys,
I'm still working on my 4AG project. Now, I've already got the engine and
differential. I was lucky being able to locate the differential, since I got
the corolla GTS ones :-).
However, I'm still have a lot of questions about the transmission I
should use.
I'm thinking about putting W50 trans from older (71-81) celica because this
type of transmission is "heavier-duty" than the T-50. I also read from the
Toyota Performance HB, that W50 is a more preferred transmission for high
performance use. Besides, I haven't been able to locate a good
(and affordable) T50 AE86. It's quite easy to find an old T-50 but I could
only locate one very expensive AE 86 (and this is the main consideration
:-( ). About the old T-50 trans, a friend of mine told me that this type
has an even weaker synchronizers than the T-50 AE86 ones.
The problem of putting a W50 is that the bellhousing plate from W-50 is
different than the T= -50. Even the starter is located at different side.
Have any of you, 4AGxx experts :-), try this combination before (w50 and 4AG)?
Beside the bellhousing, I'm also not sure about the clutch and flywheel ?
I mean what kind of clutch and flywheel should I use, the one for 4AG
or for W-50 ?
Any help would be really appreciated.
Mark Poetiray
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Date: Fri, 4 Aug 95 16:19:30 EDT
From: "Marc H. Bremmer"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: need a good 22R
Hey folks,
My 86 4X4 PU had a rod cap come loose (I think)
and #4 cylinder no longer goes up and down.. the truck
runs on three... I need a new Motor anyone have a good suggestion???
are ther any 22R's out there. in the toyo net
Marc
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: RE: Help me choose a drive train
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 1995 03:39:45 +0300 (EET DST)
>>I own a 1975 Toyota Corolla 2dr Sedan (that's right, not much of a
>>performance car).
C'mon, I think it was back in '75 that a Toyota won a World
Rally Championship rally for the first time, with a Corolla...
>I THINK this is the small and boxy looking one, I had a 1977 Corolla 2dr
>Sedan.
>
> Most likely the same thing. Yes, I guess it is small & boxy ;-)
For sure the same thing.
> The diff is the 6.38" I believe. Very weak. I put a new one
> in & it developed backlash in about 2 weeks (well, I did redline
> in 1st & slammed it into 2nd, so I guess there is a reason for it).
Hey, that's normal driving!
> Thing is, they don't break, just "clunk around" annoyingly.
Tell me about it. They do develop other "interesting" noises
too, though :( I deeply wonder what the previous owner had to do
to get my current diff to this condition... I couldn't even get
my other diff to clunk...
>Heh, how serious do ya wanna get =)
>
> Not sure yet :-). Put it this way, I'm even sorta considering
> a Nissan SR20DET or 3S-GTE! For various reasons I don't think
> I'll being using these though. Overkill really, along with a
> temptation to use the power.
Why would you want a fast car if you weren't going to USE the power?
>Did you consider camber adjustment plates ?
>
> I thought they were going to include these but it didn't happen.
> Tyres are dead flat to the ground (0 deg camber) at the moment.
> Time will tell if this is a good thing (will most likely go for
> a degree or two of neg camber, either adjustable or via a strut
> bend).
Are those the only two choices? (Ok, I won't even consider
the bending option for me).
>Twin spot calipers huh =) Neat =) I want a set =)
>
> I'm not sure if they are twin-spot or not. Was told they are
> though. These are a bolt-in fit for the KE series Corolla's.
>From what model are those calipers?
>>As far as the rear-end goes, it seems the logical choice would be a
>disc braked Sprinter rear (GTS corolla in th US).
>
>Yes, I agree totally.
Yup, that's been done numerous times.
>As you say handling is important to you, however, what is your
>driving style ?
>
>I do belive in safe driving, although I enjoy reasonable "spirited street
>driving" on occasion.
>
> I do like the feeling of taking a perfect line thru a corner at
> speed. Just a frustrated racer at heart I guess! To me this is
> more fun than absolute speed.
The most enjoyable driving for me are the twisty countryroads,
at speeds between 120 and 180km/h, taking every curve right to the
limit while balancing the car with both steering and throttle, and
then slamming the throttle wide open when coming out of the corner,
and the weight shift plants the rear tyres firmly to the asphalt...
This will also result in the drivers licence staying with me,
which travelling always above 200km/h+ down the highways might not ;)
>Basically right now it seems to be a decision weither or not to turbo.
>Thats one of the first points, since you list the 3T-GTE, and the 1G-GE
>motor, however don't list the 1G-GTE motor.
>
> Hey, at around 185Kw I may as well put wings on the car & use
> it as a plane :-). Once again though, this is a possibility.
I think 1G-GTE is an excellent engine if you're NOT going to start heavily
modifying the engine. If you are, it would be a choice between
7M-GTE or 3S-GTE.
>Basically you want a non-turbo motor, so you don't have to worry about
>the "boost comming in at the wrong times" or such.
>Its a lot easier to race with a non-turbo motor that the power curves
>are "predictable". However this also means no "raw horsepower" stretchs
>and a disadvantage on "pulling" power on straight aways.
There are no predictability problems with turbo engines, you just need
to learn the behavior of your engine. Boost gauge is IMHO as important
as tach... If you're serious about racing, you want to modify either
your power curve or gearing so that you won't drop out of your peak
power rpms when on the track.
> Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
now I need to learn that once again...
One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
David Coulthard ;)
>Also, are you going to keep the fuel injection ? Or go carbs ?
>
> EFI all the way. Either a Haltec or Electromotive. Any comments
> on either of these?
Don't have first hand experience with either. But for a car for streets
too, I wouldn't even think about replacing EFI with carbs...
>The 4AGE motor is a GOOD all around motor in which I belive in the
>multi-valve techonology. The main kicker is the price in which to
>build one.
>
> Well, current prices for an Import here in Aust, last time I
> checked, was about $1000 for Engine & 'Box. Not too bad.
About $1000 here too... less than half what you'd have to pay
for 3T-GTE here.
>I do like the 3T-TGE motor, and it works DAMM well. No complaints, just
>I'd rather go with techonology with a multi valve motor. Thats my
>thought about or the only complaint I have about t-series motors,
>however the Hemi design and proven "indestructable" bottom end
>is hard to ignore. You can't argue with over 20 years of reliable
>performance =)
>
> True. Good point. Especially with a turbo, intake valve area
> isn't as much of an issue as with an Atmo engine.
I'm not sure if my engines head is stock, but in my case I think
52mm intake valves aren't going to be the first bottleneck.
>You mention the 1G-GE motor. Personally, you can't mess with this motor
>and its reputation.
>
> I haven't checked this out, but I don't think it came out in
> any car over here, except for maybe older Cressida's.
>
> They're cheap though -- how does $295 for a 2nd-hand import
> sound?
$295???? What's the catch? I'd be building Corollas with those
engines for living if I could get them that cheap ;)
>I WANT a 1G-GTE motor myself, to shove in my 1980 Corolla, and been trying
>to get my hands on one... get me a price quote =)
>
> Someone here was selling one for about $1800 tricked up, with
> Auto 'box, no computer. He had it in his '84 (?) Supra I think.
> 185kW! Bolt-in fit! Jealous yet :-) ?
No computer... how on earth do at least half of the used engines
come without it? Do they weld those things apart so carelessly
that they usually fry the computers?
>>It would appear that the 4AG would be the most appropriate here as
>>it's the lightest (less weight over the front end).
>>However, I'm not sure I'll be happy with the power.
>
>Do you plan major mods with the motor ? Or keeping it "basically stock"
>Its a decent motor, and good all around. The power is there and its crisp.
>
> Just slight mods, nothing much internally at this stage.
> Drivability is an issue for the street. I'm looking for
> something that will be pretty much right power-wise from
> the start. Rather than get an engine & later mod it, I'd
> prefer to get a bigger & more powerful engine to start with.
> Then again, you always end up wanting more .....
You'd probably find the 4A-GE's 112hp not enough for you...
Once you would get into modifying it you'd reach its reliable
power output quickly. It's just a 1.6 liter engine after all,
and it can't handle over 170hp without a lot of expensive
modifications (rods, bolts, pistons, lifters etc).
You can get over 200hp out of these, but it will cost you
an arm and a leg, at the very least...
>I'm happy in switching to the 4AG motor from a T-series motor, however
>I cringe at the thought of it blowing up -shrug-
You won't blow it unless you try to run it above 8500 rpm or so
for extended periods with stock lifters & springs.
>>Has anyone heard much about the 20-Valve 4AGE with variable Valve Timing?
>>I can have one of these imported but it will cost about $4000
>>(a bit too much).
>
>I belive thats the Apex Twin Cam motor, 5 vavles per cylinder that
>comes with the Levins.
>
> Does that mean they come into the US? If so, what are they like?
I'd like to hear more about them too. Please?
>>As far as the 3T-GTEU, I think it may place too much weight over
>>the front-end,hence reducing handling.
Might be a problem as such a light car that you have, but that's the
case for all your alternatives except 4A-GE. Actually ANY engine
will be heavier than your 3K... So move the battery to the back,
maybe see if you can lighten up the front bumper, get rid of possible
oil pan armour...
>I do belive the 3T-GTE motor sits lower then the others.
>
> That would be a bonus. Also, room for a strut brace!
Barely. There isn't that much room to spare. I measured the maximum
dimensions for the engine, height=66cm, width=68cm, length=68cm
(with viscous fan).
>>Also, what sort of lag does this engine have?
>
>Lag can be reduced by techonology, blow off valves, fuel computers,
>etc etc.
>
> This will also be taken into account. It's just that in the Turbo
> I drove, I found the lag a bit annoying when cornering -- when I
> want power I want it *NOW*.
<2000rpm - avoid
2000-3000rpm - ok for driving, but no ohmigod power
but once you get to 3000-4000rpm the turbo will keep peak power
up to 7000rpm redline... stay above 4000rpm and the lag won't bother
you. Have a look at my WWW page for torque/power
curves, or I can send the .gif to you uuencoded if you want.
>>Apparently the 3T is easily capable of 200hp.
>
>Yes, it is VERY capable of such numbers, and with relability.
Yes, from 4200rpm to near redline... and that's without an intercooler
(getting one soon, I hope)!
>>Sounds nice, but is the lag & weight penalty worth it?
For me, hell yes!
(But I got 50-50 weight distribution with 2/3 full fuel tank).
>>Also, how reliable are they (proper maintenance>& Idle-down being a given)?
>
>They are very realible, I belive. I've only worked with one turbo model, and
>that basically was a custom modification. However, if you do proper
>turbo "mechanics" you won't encounter any other problems.
Keep the mixture rich enough and don't shut it off with red-hot turbo.
Those two given - very very reliable. Rev limiter might not be a bad
idea though, I got to 8200rpm when having a disagreement with the
2nd gear synchros - no ill effects thank god.
> Yes, it will be all done professionally. Apparently, to actually
> mount the engine in the bay, only the turbo side mount needs
> to be moved. Remember, we didn't get the 2T engine out here.
We did so we have plenty of engine bays in Carinas, Celicas and Corollas
with T-series mounts ;)
>>The 1GGE would have great torque I'd imagine, but what does it rev like?
>>Is this engine even heavier than a 3T-GTE?
>
>I do belive its a bit heavier then the 3T motor, however, the power from
>the motor and the torque from sheer displacement would be worth it.
>
>I do belive its a 2.5 block.
>
> If you mean capacity, the 1GGE is 2.0 L I think (but I could
> be wrong).
Definately it is just 1988cc engine. So peak torque is only 134lbft
vs the 152lbft of stock 3T-GTE or my 245lbft ;)
1G-GTE has 203lbft. For more info, see the engines list on my WWW
pages.
>>Finally, it would seem that the 3SGE would probably fit my purposes best --
>>power, weight, responsiveness etc. taken into account.
>>Comments?
To summarize my recommendation for your engine:
I think 3S-GE would be the best naturally aspirated engine in your case.
If you decide you want more (turbocharged) power, I'd say 3S-GTE
is your best choice if you have the $$$$'s. If not, go for the
3T-GTE. Those sixes are just too large and heavy for a Corolla,
if handling is an issue...
>>For Gearbox, I'd imagine my choices are a RWD Corolla box to fit the 4AGE
>>(once again Sprinter/Corolla GTS).
>>For the rest, a Supra box would be the go.
Absolutely correct.
>>Comments?
>
>The T-50 trans is easily fitted to all of the motors as you say.
>Perhaps find a wrecked Levin and take parts from it ?
>
> Well, for a start, the only Levin's in Aust are personnal imports
> for racing purposes. They don't meet Aust design rules, hence
> can't be registered for road use without mods.
>
> The T-50 'box is the Corolla RWD 'box?
T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
engines and 3T-GTE.
>>Also, would a 3.9 'diff ratio be most appropriate for the "torqueier"
>>engines, whilst a 4.1 would be better for a 4AGE? Cruising rev's & fuel
~5% won't make a huge difference, but I agree with you.
>>economy is an issue here as well (but performance is No. 1 priority :-).
>
>Depends on your motor set up also. Power curves etc etc, proably a turbo
>motor would suit you the best in the long run.
When I changed from 4.1 to 3.727 I lost nothing in acceleration, but
got more relaxed cruising revs (4080rpm@140km/h is typical for me).
I do have to downshift to make a 100% efficient pass more often
though, so 3rd and 4th gear see more use now...
> Too true. The turbo I drove was good like that. Docile in
> traffic, but plant the right foot & away you go. Lined up a
> Suzuki RGV 250 bike one day ('coz a mate of mine used to always
> brag about how no car could out-accelerate him on his). Result :
> Commodore VS Suzuki : TIE. Gee that car was quick ....
Motorbikes seem to be the only vehicles I get to stoplight race
anymore... others are rarely of any competition at all.
>Nah nah nah, I think we need to know what type of club racing
>and what sorta daily driving habits you have with this vehicle.
>
> Hopefully I've given you more of an idea. I'll have to think
> about this some more & find out more about the types of
> circuits I'm likely to see. As far as I know, it will be all
> types -- tight ones hard on brakes & needing good handling, along
> with open ones where power is more of an issue. Just to confuse
> matters more.
If the circuits you will race are very slow (most of the time below
50mph or so) a naturally aspirated engine will have a significant
advantage. Otherwise, go for a turbo...
> Guess I'm after the perfect car huh :-> .
Aren't we all ;) Anyone have a Supra TT or Celica GT-4 or MR2 Turbo
to donate to a good home? =)
>I guess AC is not an important issue ?
>
> I would like to fit this eventually. May be a bit of a space
> problem if I get the 3T. Rest of the engines, should be ok.
> I've seen pictures of 3T's into this car -- tight squeeze.
I don't have much space under the hood or my Carina either, but I know
that many people have stuffed the AC in there.
>I would personally go with techonology and a turbo.
>Multi valve motor plus turbo.
I'd find it hard to drive a car without a turbo anymore, I got
addicted to the (mid/high-range) power...
Welcome to the list and good luck with your project!
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 7 Aug 95 14:15:10
Subject: AC and the 18RG
Attention 18-RG gurus:
I've just installed an 18RG engine (still breaking it in -- 100 miles to go
before I can floor it) in my car
and I'm quite stumped as to how to route the fan belts to drive the AC
compressor.
The engine did not come with the OEM AC compressor brackets, and now I'm forced
to have some
custom made.
I assume the AC compressor will be mounted somewhere above the alternator
(exhaust manifold
side). There are two belt grooves in the crank pulley but only one groove on
the pulley for the water
pump. Right now, one fan belt drives the water pump and the alternator. I
assume the belt for the
AC compressor will be using the second groove on the crank pulley, but how does
it clear the water
pump? Is there an idler pulley somewhere to pull the belt away from the pump?
Or should there be
two grooves on the pulley on the water pump?
Right now, I have two options: Stick an idler pulley in there to pull the AC
belt away from the water pump, or have a machine shop make me a water pump
pulley with two belt grooves.
If you have a 18RG engine in your car, please take a quick look under the hood
and please tell me
what you see. I'd like to know how Toyota did it.
Thanks in advance,
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 23:25:10 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Latest from the Uboat Commander
Well, the 4x4 seems to be running fairly well, but I am spotting a bit
more metal flake in the Oberg oil filter than usual, and it is requiring
cleaning about every 5 miles! It's times like these when I love that
filter! As everyone may know, it has a pressure sensor in it and when
the oil filter goes into flow-by mode from being overly dirty, it lights
a light on the dashboard. I've cleaned it 3 times since last Wednesday.
With a regular filter, I'd just be free-flowing dirt/metal through the
engine.
Thanks for all the good tips. You can certainly tell that, although
I've owned this truck for 12 years, I am much more a racer than a 4
wheeler! I'll certainly do better next time. I have decided I will build
a snorkel kit for the side drafts, but I will make it easily installable/
removeable, and not run it unless I plan on going swimming again.
I've decided not to do too much else on the truck right now. I don't
drive it much, and am in the planning stages of completely rebuilding
it from the bottom up. It doesn't make too much sense to do too much
until I start on the refurbishment. I've decided to go ahead and
rebuild the motor out of the race car for the truck. 10.5:1 pistons,
20R head, side drafts, header, cam, I'm shooting for about 180-190 hp.
As for the rest of the truck, I'm really strongly considering that step-
side bed from Downey. Also, there's a kit that completely replaces the
top and back of the cab with a removeable plexiglass panel. The structural
part of the roof over and behind the door is not touched, so there is
no weaking of the body. I think it'll look pretty cool. Has anyone else
out there seen this kit?
Top all of this off with some nice Recaro's, Schroth belts, a nice stero,
and I think it'll be a showpiece. Just perfect for the next hurricane!
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 23:25:19 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: AC and the 18RG
>Right now, I have two options: Stick an idler pulley in there to pull the AC
>belt away from the water pump, or have a machine shop make me a water pump
>pulley with two belt grooves.
According to the Toyota Factory repair manual for the 18RG, you should
have a double notch water pump pulley if you have an AC compressor.
One belt (in the back notch) crosses the crank pulley, the water pump
pulley, and the alternator. The front belt crosses the crank, the
water pump, and then the alternator. I'd go hunting for some 18R's in
the junk yard and try to steal their setup, or see if they could be
modified to work for you. BTW, in the drawing, the compressor is
mounted just above and to the right (looking from the front of the
car) of the alternator.
Hope this helps!
Chris
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Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 9:06:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota Shims
Well, a bunch of you have been asking me how I am progressing in my
quest for some performance camshafts. I have been talking to
"Georgie" at ToyoSport, and he told me that he could get me a set of
shims made. Two weeks later, he tells me that he really cant motivate his
suppliers to get the shims manufactured. Needless to say, I am pissed.
Well, all else failed, so I let my fingers to the walking down to a little
machine shop in Richardson, Texas. I told the guy there about what I needed
and then went down for a visit. The guy I met, "Ireland" was about
70 years old, had a small machine shop, and he still had old leather bound
machine specification books on the wall. He did own a calculator, so I
relaxed. As it turns out, Ireland can build my shims for me from scratch -
at a cost of about $200 for 12.
Well, $200 is better than $385 for new factory cams.
-d.ginther
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Development
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 10:53:19 -0400
To: DCG9381@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Toyota Shims
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
> Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 9:42:21 -0500 (CDT)
> From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
> To: msink@imonics.com
> Subject: Re: Toyota Shims
>
> sorry.. you are right... ToySport...
OK.. cause when you sent out mail about a week ago trying to find their
number, you said information couldnt find it. I said they couldn't find
it because you were spelling it wrong, and have been ever since. Anyway,
it doesn't surprise me they pissed you off. I was told I could have a
custom made 4 puck clutch in 2 weeks. After letting my car sit for 2 MONTHS
while waiting for it, they finally sent me this CenterForce disc, and CF wanna-be
pressure plate. I was supposed to get a 4 puck metallic disc, and 1500 lb pressure
plate. I got neither, was charged the same $300, and lost use of my car for
2 months while waiting for it. On top of that.. I was going to buy a turbo kit
for my '87 MR2. We talked a little bit about it, and he told me to send him
exactly what I wanted. Believe me I sent him exactly what I wanted, even a hp/
torque curve I was looking for. He told me they were working on a turbo kit
for my car, and when I sent him my specs, he would get back to me. I was ready
to spend some BIG bucks for this. I never heard a word back, not one! And this
was AFTER they ripped me on the clutch. So, you having to wait 2 weeks for nothing
is probably better than waiting 2 months for something you could have gotten from
someone else, for less money!
mark Sink
I wouldn't try to buy anything "custom made" from Toysport. They DON'T deliver!!
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Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 10:58:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Darin C. Ginther, DCG9381@Zeus.tamu.edu"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: ToySport
I have a correction. The company that was going to get me cam shims
was ToySport, not ToyoSport.
I do not know what these idiots do for a living, but they have no concept
of customer service. I made 8 LD calls to them, each time I was promised
that they would have the information on the shims "in a day or so".
To date, "georgie" has never told me that he can
't get the shims I need. His specific response was that he was calling
individuals that had provided shims for these applications before, but
he couldn't guarantee anything since they produced these shims as a
"special favor to him". Man, at 8-10 bucks a shim times twelve shims,
no one is going anyone favors.
The local guy who is building these things from scratch is going to have
a final bill of about $200 - I don't even care because I got straight
answers and good customer service.
I realize that I have to consider the hardness of the shims. This is my
line of thinking and you can tell me if I am correct:
Since the shims are NOT in constant contact with the camshafts, they need
to be of sufficent hardness so that they will not scrape away when the
camshaft turns down on them. Material that is too soft would be much
worse than material that is too hard. The original shims only had a few
thousands of a mm wear on them with 60K miles. I was told by
the machinist that he could match the hardness to a certain degree, so
I dont have to worry about it.
-d
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 8 Aug 95 13:48:25
Subject: Re: AC and the 18RG
>>Right now, I have two options: Stick an idler pulley in there to pull the AC
>>belt away from the water pump, or have a machine shop make me a water pump
>>pulley with two belt grooves.
>According to the Toyota Factory repair manual for the 18RG, you should
>have a double notch water pump pulley if you have an AC compressor.
>Hope this helps!
>Chris
Thanks Chris.... I never thought about the 18RG manual... although I did buy
one from you : )
I guess the engine I have didn't come with the a/c compressor. However, the
water pump pulley does have two notches on it, but, one of the notch is smaller
in diameter and is not aligned to the crank pulley -- its probably used to
drive another accessory (power steering pump, I assume).
I remember a thread a few months back about 18RG engines can either have power
steering or air-conditioning... but not both. Now, I know why.... the
distributor's in the way :(
---- A little update on my new engine while I'm here..... The break-in period
is over! The car is in the shop right now having the head re-torqued and the
oil changed. A little tuning and .... vrooom! :) Details tomorrow...
-John
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 07:58:25 EDT
From: golder@ppd.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Synchometer vs. Rubber Hose.
> I've read somewhere that if you don't have a Synchrometer, you can
> synchronize dual side draft carbs by holding a rubber hose near your ear.
> Has anyone heard of this method before? Where do you put the other end
> of the hose? What do you listen for?
You want to adjust the carbs so that they all sound the same. Do you know
anyone with an old British car? Many of them had multiple carbs, and this
was a common technique for synchronizing when a real sync tool wasn't
available. This method is even described in some of the repair manuals.
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 9 Aug 95 9:16:01
Subject: Synchometer vs. Rubber Hose.
I've read somewhere that if you don't have a Synchrometer, you can synchronize
dual side draft carbs by holding a rubber hose near your ear.
Has anyone heard of this method before? Where do you put the other end of the
hose? What do you listen for?
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 9 Aug 95 18:03:31
Subject: Re: carb sync.
Darin Ginther writes:
> You can probabily borrow a sync meter, if you are in any type of car
> club.. If not, I would recommend a vacuum gague.. (if your carbs are
> not linked)
If you mean linked via a balance tube, yet it is. I have a vacuum gauge in the
dash but its tapped to the center of the balance tube. Would there be ill
effects if i pull the balance tube out and just plug holes left behind? I
would think it would be easier to sync the carbs that way -- at least the carbs
would be running independently from each other. Somebody please tell me that
I'm wrong before I yank the tube out.
Thanks,
John.
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:50:30 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Prepare for Major Bandwidth Usage!
Well! Some folks had said that there wasn't much traffic on TM lately.
I'm about to fix that! (At least temporarily.) I am posting a big back-
log of me/mine/mods to the group, but this time I am doing them all
as single messages, as opposed to my former method of pulling them into
one file, cleaning them up, and sending them out at once. In the future
you shouldn't see this huge clump of messages any more! I have changed
the introduction to the list to have new members post their me/mine/mods
directly to toyota-mods, as opposed to toyota-mods-owner. I am not sure
why we decided to do it that way, way back when, but I am sure we had a
good reason at that time.
Anyway, 1000 pardons for the big clump of messages. Please post some
responses to these emails.
Chris
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:00 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Trey Cobb
>Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 20:50:47 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Trey Cobb
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>
>Name : Trey Cobb
>Location : Dallas, TX
>Model : 1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II [GT-R] (10th Anniversary Edition)
>Engine : 13BT (Turbo Twin Rotor)
>Mods : RS*R Exhaust, HKS Super Powerflow, Techtom ECU, Racing Beat
> strut tower bar, etc. (Trust I/C on order)
>email : vernor@netcom.com
>
>I know I don't have a Toyota but because of my interest and knowledge on
>tuning turbo cars, as well as my involvement in tuning friends Turbo '2s
>and a Supercharged MR2, I hope my participation in your mailing list
>will be allowed. I am no elitest just as your welcoming email makes
>claim to the fact that the list isn't elitest only so I promise no
>bashing of Toyota products or modifications made to them. I only want
>to learn.
>
>Maybe one day I can afford to get a nice 2JZ-GTE Supra.
>
>| Trey Cobb | 1988 RX-7 Turbo II | Turbo II Perf. List
>| vernor@netcom.com | (10th Anniv. Edition) | Maintainer/Writer
>| Eccentric Tuning, Inc. | 260HP++ / 12-13psi | "Stock SUCKS!"
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:14 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Ralph Hill
>Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 10:41:25 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Ralph Hill
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Ralph Hill
>Location : Morristown NJ
>Model : 1993 Camry DX (only options: AC, floor mats, mud flaps)
>Engine : 5FSE? (Something like that, don't have book with me. The
>130 hp 2.2l 4)
>Mods : Rear anti-roll and bushing from an SE (HUGE!!! difference),
>wider throttle pedal to allow heel-toe down shifts, extra lubricant on
>shift linkage (helps get rid of some of the notchy feel), tighten
>throttle cable (too much slack in the stock set-up for good control).
>email : rdh@bellcore.com
>
>Hopes and plans:
>
>15 or 16 inch wheels and matching tires for the Camry.
>
>Always on the look-out for a good used MR2
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:34 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu (Alvin Reyes Mendoza)
>Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 09:54:35 -0700
>X-Sender: amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>From: amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu (Alvin Reyes Mendoza)
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Alvin Reyes Mendoza
>Location : San Diego, CA, USA
>Model : 1987 Toyota Corolla SR5
>Engine : 4-AC
>Mods : K&N stock replacement air filter, Ultra-Flo Exaust,
> Split-fire plugs, Jacobs Electonics plug wires
>email : amendoza@mail.sdsu.edu
>Alvin Reyes Mendoza
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:51:51 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Bruce Brandt 834-7372
>MR-Received: by mta OCMV36.MUAS; Relayed; Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:38:55 -0500 (CDT)
>MR-Received: by mta OCMV36; Relayed; Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:38:56 -0500 (CDT)
>Disclose-recipients: prohibited
>Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:38:55 CDT
>From: Bruce Brandt 834-7372
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Autoforwarded: false
>Importance: normal
>Priority: normal
>Sensitivity: Company-Confidential
>UA-content-id: 119679E63700
>X400-MTS-identifier: [;5755380715061995/A17611/OCMV36]
>Hop-count: 0
>
>Name :Bruce Brandt
>Location :Austin, TX
>Model :1989 Supercharged MR2
>Engine :4A-GEZ
>Mods :K&N Filtercharger, uprated tires to Pirelli P600 205-55
>email :brandt@am.ocmv36.frco.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:52:11 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods John Page
>From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
>Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 19:30:51 -0400
>To: Toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name: John Page
>Location: Los Angeles, USA
>Model: 1994 Supra Turbo 6 speed
>Engine: turbo
>Mods: R1 racing tires
>email: godknows@aol.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:52:26 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: mine Albert E. Cram
>From: acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu
>To: toyota-mods
>Subject: mine
>Date: Tue, 27 Jun 95 13:02:20 CDT
>Sender: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
>Precedence: bulk
>
>Name: Albert E. Cram
>Location: Iowa City, Iowa
>Model: MR2 1985
>Engine: 4AGE
>Mods: None yet, working on suspension first and hope to learn
>from others re best suppliers. I have a Lotus 7 E modified solo
>car so I'm familiar with making mistakes due to lack of knowledge.
> I hope to avoid some of those mistakes by listening to you.
>
>E mail: acram@surgery.uiowa.edu
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:52:43 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Dave Cole
>Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 21:41:59 GMT
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>From: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca (Dave Cole)
>X-Sender: dcole@pop.etc.bc.ca
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Location : Prince George B.C. Canada
>Model : 1992 paseo
>Engine : (e.g. 3S-GE -- please be specific, several versions may exist)
>Mods : None yet. I am finding out that there is not much available
>for a Paseo
>email: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca
>Dave Cole S.D.57
>Prince George B.C.
>Canada
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:07 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods (correction) Dave Cole
>Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 22:40:28 GMT
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>From: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca (Dave Cole)
>X-Sender: dcole@pop.etc.bc.ca
>Subject: me/mine/mods (correction)
>
>Location : Prince George B.C. Canada
>Model : 1992 Paseo
>Engine :5E-FE
>Mods : None yet. I am finding out that there is not much available for
>a Paseo
>email: dcole@cln.etc.bc.ca
>Dave Cole S.D.57
>Prince George B.C.
>Canada
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:22 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Tim Miller
>Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 07:05:00 -0600
>From: Tim Miller
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Hi, my name is Tim Miller and I wanted to introduce myself to all of you. I
live in St.Paul,
>MN and currently have a 91 MR2 Turbo. The only modifications I have done
so far are
>the addition of a K&N air filter and a wheel and tire upgrade to 16" Moda
M1 with
>Yokahama AVS Intermediates. I am looking for ideas on what mods will make
the most
>dramatic changes for the price. I am kind of new to the sports car market,
so I probable
>won't have many tips for anyone else.
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:37 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Tony Lanterman
>Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 18:07:45 -0700
>From: Tony Lanterman
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Tony Lanterman (aka Joe Woodsprite)
>Location : Portland, OR
>Model : 1983 Toyota Celica ST
>Engine : 22R (carb)
>Mods : Aftermarket sunroof, American Racing wheels,
> Bosch Foglights, Centerforce I clutch, '83 GT
> Seats, 350w of (Pullout) stereo sound.
>email : lantera@teleport.com
>
>Future Mods: Smog-legal headers, indexed plugs, New springs
> shocks and struts, cat-back exhaust, new paint.
>
>Just an update to go with the new address.
> Woodsprite
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:53:57 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Peter Mejak
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 13:51:18 +1000
>From: Peter Mejak
>
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Peter Mejak
>Location : Melbourne, Australia
>Model : 1975 Toyota Corolla
>Engine : 5K
>Mods : 32/36 Downdraft Weber
> Extractors
> 1 3/4" Sports Exhaust System
> Bilstein front Struts
> "Race-Type" narrow springs on custom adjustable (up/down) platforms
> (front, modified from RT-142 Corona)
> Corona RT-142 Brakes -- 10.5" Solid Front Discs & Calipers
> QFM Street Brake Pads
> Uprated Brake Booster/Master Cylinder
> 13x5.5" alloys, Falken FK06G 205/60 tyres
> Bosch Electronic Ignition
> Uprated Rear Springs, Heavy Duty Dampers
> Various Interior Mods
> (Probably other things I've forgotten)
>
>email : peterm@aus.hp.com
>
>Hi,
>
>I own the above car. It's great to finally find this list.
>
>At the moment, it's undergoing a complete Restoration. Future plans (soon)
>are to change to a Toyota Sprinter Disc Braked Rear (Toyota Corolla GT in
>the US?), Koni rear dampers, plus an engine swap. Only thing holding this
>up is the body work being done.
>
>Engines currently being considered : 4AGE, 3S-GE, 1GGE, 3T-GTE.
>
>Will also update wheels to 15x7 with 195/50 to take full advantage of the
>suspension mods.
>
>Any info from anyone who has seen/done the above swaps would be helpful.
>
>Regards,
>
>Peter.
>
>======================================================
>Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
>peterm@aus.hp.com
>======================================================
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:54:12 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods John Limcangco
>To: toyota-mods-owner
>From: "john.limcangco"
>Date: 25 Jul 95 11:09:17
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>I'm back!
>
>Name: John Limcangco
>Location: Manila, Philippines
>Model: 1979 Cressida 4-door sedan
>Engine: 18-RG
>Mods: Recently replaced stock 18-RC engine with 18-RG. Ported, polished,
>balanced, 9.7:1 compressions pistons, 1 mm overbore, lightened flywheel,
>Crane Ignition, headers and free flowing exhaust system;
> lowered around 2.5 inches all around; 15" alloy wheels from '84-'85 Supra;
> retrofitted 'junk-yard special' power steering, power windows, and power
>locks.
> CD player, pre-amp, signal processors, amps, separates, subwoofers....
>e-mail: john.limcangco@ac.com
>
>What's up Chris? I got back home from Atlanta last Wednesday evening. My
new
>engine was
>installed and running beautifully. I still have to get over the 500 mile
>break-in period, oh well.
>
>My mechaninc, Jing de Leon, did a good job of putting everything together...
>and the details were
>very nice -- down to the OEM looking black wrinkle finish valve covers. The
>K&N filters fit very
>well, with enough room to clear the passenger side shock tower; and the plug
>wires look very 'serious'. The stock blue NGK plug wires look wimpy next to
>the TRD wires.
>
>I have yet to install the ignition system. I'll find time to do it this
>weekend.
>
>-John.
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:54:28 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Paddy McManus
>Date: Fri, 28 Jul 1995 13:47:29 +0900
>From: Patrick McManus
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Paddy McManus
>Location : Tokyo, Japan
>Model : 1995 Supra Turbo Aerotop, Automatic, 17" wheels
>Engine : Will send in another mail, 3000cc, s6, 24v
>Mods : None
>email : pmcmanus@tt.kubota.co.jp
>
>In summary, its a wonderful car - goes so fast so safely, that when the speed
>restrictor cuts in it feels as if you are doing 80mph, and not 125mph (I can't
>believe 155 comes that quickly and so smoothly.
>
>Paddy
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:54:47 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: '92 Celica GTS mods. Rob P. Martin
>Subject: '92 Celica GTS mods.
>To: toyota-mods
>Date: Sun, 23 Jul 95 19:38:41 MDT
>From: "Rob P. Martin"
>
> Well, I have been a lurker here for about a year (I
>haven't even posted my mods yet) so I thought that it was about
>time I spoke up. :)
>
>Currently my car sits at:
>'92 Celica GTS
>K&N Filter Charger
>Mobil 1 Oil
>Niken Racing Pedals
>Tinted windows
>
>As you can see, so far most of my modifications have been almost
>purely cosmetic. I am now ready to start doing more performance
>oriented modifications.
>
>I am looking at freeing up my exhaust system, but I have run into
>a bit of a wall. HKS does not make anything for this model year
>(as of yet) so I went looking for other sources. The only
>"pre-built" system that I could find is from Reddi (SP?) Racing
>and costs about $750 + tax + install. My other option is to have
>a local shop here do something with a dynomax muffler and some
>custom piping. estimated cost $400 incl. install.
>
>My question is, is the RR model that much better? Does anyone
>have any experience with RR exhausts, and might want to let me in
>on them? Are there other manufacturers that I should be looking
>at? Does anyone know where I can get RR at a discount? (I think
>that the shop I am talking to they are trying for full list, but
>I haven't tried to cut them down yet, because I don't know enough
>about the system to know if it is worth my time).
>
>I would also like to go with a K&N cone filter, but I wonder of
>the merits of this, ie. performance boost vs. filtration
>efficiency.
>
>Well, any help/hints would be appreciated.
>
> Rob
>
>--
>rpmartin@acs.ucalgary.ca | The greatest pleasure in life is doing what
>rpmartin@freenet.calgary.ab.ca | other people say you cannot do.
>-------------------------------| - Walter Bagehot
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:55:09 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Dick Byrd
>Date: Sat, 5 Aug 1995 00:01:13 -0400
>From: "Dick Byrd"
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>>If you haven't done so already, send information describing yourself,
>>your car, any modifications you have made, and any other comments:
>
>Name: Dick Byrd
>Location: Fairfax, Virginia (suburb of Wash., D.C.)
>Models: 1982 Toy Supra
> 1983 Toy Corolla
> 1987 Toy Camry
>Mods: Supra has head ported/polished and 20 Thou milled off.
>
>I've owned only Toyotas for 20 years, first one was a 1972 Celica.
>I do all my own maintenance. Recently replaced timing belt in Supra.
>
>Stuff from Dick Byrd
>byrd@mnsinc.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:55:26 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Ed Pitts
>From: ARacer@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 11:22:30 -0400
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name: Ed Pitts
>Location: Solana Beach, CA, USA
>Model: 1988 Corolla sedan, 5 speed
>Engine: 4A-F carbureted
>Mods: Suspension Techniques springs (15% stiffer than GTS Coupe, est. 35%
>stiffer than stock sedan), front stabilizer bar from 4-wheel drive station
>wagon (stock bushings), rear stabilizer from GTS coupe (TRD high-durometer
>rubber bushings), stock shocks from GTS coupe (slotted to run 2 degrees
>negative camber), other suspension settings (front toe out 1/4 to 3/8 inch,
>rear toe zero), rear disk brakes from GTS, front strut tower brace from GAB
>(with extensive refabrication), 2" exhaust behind cat, Ultra Flow muffler,
>polished exhaust manifold, TRD quick shift lever (cut down 1-1/4" and angled
>left instead of right), left-foot idle pedal, Momo steering wheel, Simpson
>5-point harness (3" belts; stock belts left in place), cheap aftermarket
>tach, rear spoiler from GTS coupe, 15x7 Momo Ferrari Engineering wheels,
>195/50-15 Yokhama A509 tires (will go back to the Z-rated AVS Intermediates
>next time), tire pressures (street - 35 psi front, 32 psi rear) (autocross -
>45 to 50 psi front, 30 to 35 rear). Future mods: Complete disk brake upgrade,
>4A-GZE engine/supercharger from 88 MR2 (or equivalent supercharger on 4A-GE)
>(where to put the intercooler?), halfshafts from GTS coupe, AutoPower roll
>cage, some performance seat (a little lower to give me some helmet clearance
>from the cage).
>email: A Racer@aol.com
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:55:56 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Monte Bedford
>From: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
>Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 17:20:51 EST
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>
>Hi,
> I'm happy to become a member of Toyota-mods. I was extremely
>interested in reading the toyota-mods_posts from the Info Inserver, www.
>
> I've been moditying my (same) Corolla, strictly as a fun-on-the-street
>daily driver since the early 80's. In fact, I didn't know how to even approach
>the hobby (obsession) until I saw an ad for TRD, called, and asked if they
>thought it was possible to put a Celica engine into my '78 Corolla. What a
>hoot!! But Tim said, "build it" (the 2TC, that is).
>
> So with help, at first, from a professional engine builder--didn't want
>to learn engine building with expensive parts--but oh, how things have
>changed-- I've put together, over a long period of time, some modifications.
>
> But first, let me introduce myself.
>
> Monte Bedford
> 3702 W. Stafford Drive
> Bloomington, IN 47403
>
> e-mail: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
>
>1978 Corolla, 2 dr. sedan, deluxe, TE31, blue, T-50 5 speed
>
>Engine: 3TC block; 2TC head, distributor
>
>Modifications:
>
>TRD 2 liter pistons, rings, pins
>rods shotpeened, magnaflux, stress-releaved, "I" beams polished
>TRD rallye bearing set
>TRD oil pump
>balanced
>TRD head gasket
>TRD oversized valves, double valve springs, seats, retainers, and bronze
>guides
>Head was reworked on a professional racing flow bench.
>2 x 44 mm Mikuni side-drafts
>4 " K&N filters
>TRD ignition wires
>TRD light flywheel
>TRD clutch
>TRD header
>2 1/4" exhaust system
>SuperTrapp 18" stainless exhaust (fiberglass, baffle plates)
>185HR14 on alloy Shelby "Daytona"'s
>
>About the suspension:
>
>Bought heavy-duty front springs (brand? bought from Select Sales, Miami, quite
>awhile back) and Tokico adjustable struts/shocks, but haven't installed them
>because I'm thinking of getting rid of the body, which, from the last several
>Indiana winters is giving way to cancer. So, I'm looking for a rust-free,
>non-trashed 2-dr. Corolla (up through '82), which doesn't exist (certainly not
>for sale) in this part of the country.
>
>Plan: When I find such vehicle, ***which will never be driven in the midwest
>winter***, transfer engine, exhaust, install suspension parts, restore
>ext./int. as needed.
>
>Other plans include, but NOT LIMITED TO:
> Rework the rear end for better gearing and non-slip
> Modify brakes
> Better coil, monkey with plugs
>
>That's all for now. Look forward to getting to know other people and their
>Toyotas.
>
>Monte
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 20:56:19 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Paul Pyyvaara
>Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 09:40:18 -0600 (CST)
>From: Paul Pyyvaara
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name : Paul Pyyvaara
>Location : Gold Coast, Australia
>Model : 1971 Corolla KE-25 coupe
>Engine : 2-TG
>Mods : Oversized pistons with mild head work (1798cc)
> (original engine was 3K-H), Celica 5-speed. Will build a
> stroker for the new year to ~2000cc.
> Late model Mitsubishi vented disc brakes with Cortina
> calipers on the front, Late model 120Y diff with Nissan
> Bluebird disks/calipers on the rear. Lowered with 14"
> 3-piece rims.
>email : paulp@dstc.edu.au
>
>Cheers,
>
> Paul.
>------------------------------------------------------------
> Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
> Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
> B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
> Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:44:27 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods James O'Brien
>From: "James O'Brien"
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 11:03:38 +0800 (WST)
>
>NAME : James O'Brien
>LOCATION : Perth, Western Australia
>MODEL : 1979 T-18 (Chassis # TE-72)
>ENGINE : 4-AGE / 3T-C
>MODS : Replaced the 3T-C with a 4A-GE, added a high flow filter (HKS)
> added a bigger exhaust (don't know the size yet, its being done today)
> replaced tailshaft and gearbox with gearbox from Japanese Corona
> and had a T-18 shaft _properly_ remanufactured.
> Also have a Kenwood stereo which will be upgraded soon
> I would like some aftermarket seats but these are out of my price range
> at the moment.
>EMAIL : obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:44:30 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods Paul Banim
>From: Paul Banim
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 12:29:06 +1000 (EST)
>
>Name: Paul Banim
>Location: University of Tasmania, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
>Model: 1969 KE10 Corolla
>Engine: 3K
>Mods: extractors, 14inch rims-low profile tyres, suspension, graphics,
> interior
>Email: pm_banim@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>--
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:44:45 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: BOUNCE toyota-mods@cyberauto.com: Admin request
Interesting stuff from John Lincangco. Don't know why this one blounced!
Chris
>Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 21:48:40 -0400
>To: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
>From: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
>Subject: BOUNCE toyota-mods@cyberauto.com: Admin request
>
>To: toyota-mods
>From: "john.limcangco"
>Date: 9 Aug 95 9:29:31
>Subject: Help me diagnose....
>
>I've just finished breaking-in my 18RG with dual Mikuni 40 carbs, 9.7:1
>compression, port/polish. I had the head re-torqued and the oil+filter was
>changed.
>
>It RAN great. It pulls very strong from 2000 rpm all the way to 5000 rpm. I
>don't know what the correct red-line so I don't want to push it until I can
>confirm with the engine builder. He claims 8000+, but I want it in writing so
>he'll fix it when it blows up :) . Anyway, the problem I have now is that
>after a series of full throttle passes all the way to 5000 rpm, the engine
just
>won't idle. Its rough from 1000 rpm to 2500 rpm. The exhaust pipe has some
>kind of black deposits (it didn't have this when I was breaking it in).
>
>The engine builder said something about having the carbs tuned and/or
>re-jetted.... What kind of adjustments are needed? Someone please give me a
>second opinion.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Limcangco
>Manila, Philippines
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 23:09:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Name :Craig Alen Terlau
Location :Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
Model :Toyota Starlets 81-84 (prep for race, rally, ice racing)
Engine :3K, 4K, 5K
Mods :engine, EFI, exhaust, suspension, brakes, chassis, durability
email :terlau@csd.uwm.edu
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 21:48:22 -1000
From: "Allen T "Koji" Kam"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: (*sigh*)
Just When I get some free time to catch up on some back postings...
Chris does thistome again =)
Um, welcome all new peeples =)
Often there is a great "lag time" etc etc.
However if you really kinna want some related facts towards your car like
post it to someones attention like
"Koji respond to this"
"Matti how the heck do you get great gas milage"
"Chris, how big are your 4x4 tires that you were crusing along in the flood
using the tops of stop signs as road markers"
etc etc..
Another things is also... don't feel bad to speak up or even make silly comments =)
There is no such thing as a "stupid question or answer" if its not asked =)
Oh, please create some traffic like in regards to why you joined the list or whta you expect out of this list..
So far, we got a great crew here..just some of us are quite busy and
want to reply..just don't have the time -sigh-
I'm about 6 months behind so if you want a quick response to me like
threaten to give me a job or somethin...
Then i'll respond VERY quickly (usually)
Welcome Eberry bunny =)
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
Unoffical Toyota-Mods-WOB Spokespeeple
1980 Corolla SR-5
1987 Corolla FX-16
1988 Celica GTS
1995 Rollerblade Tarmac CS
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 10 Aug 95 13:47:52
Subject: Update on project 18RG.
> Interesting stuff from John Lincangco. Don't know why this one blounced!
> Chris
>>
>> I've just finished breaking-in my 18RG with dual Mikuni 40 carbs, 9.7:1
>> compression, port/polish. I had the head re-torqued and the oil+filter was
>> changed.
>>
>> It RAN great. It pulls very strong from 2000 rpm all the way to 5000 rpm.
I
>> don't know what the correct red-line so I don't want to push it until I can
>> confirm with the engine builder. He claims 8000+, but I want it in writing
so
>> he'll fix it when it blows up :) . Anyway, the problem I have now is that
>> after a series of full throttle passes all the way to 5000 rpm, the engine
just
>> won't idle. Its rough from 1000 rpm to 2500 rpm. The exhaust pipe has
some
>> kind of black deposits (it didn't have this when I was breaking it in).
>>
>> The engine builder said something about having the carbs tuned and/or
>> re-jetted.... What kind of adjustments are needed? Someone please give me a
>> second opinion.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John Limcangco
>> Manila, Philippines
>>
Ok, here's an update: I went back to the engine builder to have the car
checked. Aparently, my few 5000 rpm passes made a jet (idle jet maybe)
unscrew itself. There was also a vacuum leak somewhere in the carbs' balance
tube... Time to yank that balance tube out!
The builder said that he changed the jets... I asked to what size and he said
"just big enough....". Some kind of secret, I think. I'll find out in due
time. Bottom line is, he car runs great and the engine idles verrrrrrry
smooth. He also quoted 7000 rpm as a good everyday red-line. 8000+ once in a
while (like in a mis-gear) won't blow it up, said he. He's guarranteeing his
work for 5 years --- As long as I am diligent about changing the oil every 3000
miles and that nobody else touches the engine. Not bad.
Its raining over here now, the roads are wet (flooded at some areas) so I still
haven't seen the world from 5000 rpm up.
I promise a full Engine Swap Report posted on TM sometime soon.
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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From: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 95 14:02:23 EST
Subject: Monte and Craig talking about 2T-C in a Starlet
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Hi, after having JUST joined Toyota-mods, I sent my first TM e-mail to Craig
Terlau, but that was via PERSONAL internet message. BUT HEY, WHAT'S THE WHOLE
POINT IF WE CAN'T SHARE THESE SORTS OF MESSAGES WITH THE WHOLE GROUP. WASN'T
THINKING. MY FAULT. Now will try to rectify, so Craig, if it's okay with you,
I'll paraphrase me, then quote you.
Basically, I have a built up 3TC block/2TC head. The body of my '78 Corolla is
rotting away (Indiana winters). I know Craig, from Milwaukee, can really
relate. So, I'm looking for a rust-free vehicle for my engine. E-mailed
Craig about his Starlets as a possible alternative to finding another Corolla.
Monte
From: PO3::"terlau@csd.uwm.edu" "Craig A Terlau" 10-AUG-1995 12:44:23.74
To: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
CC:
Subj: Re: your Starlets--read about, toyota-mods
Hi, I have never seen that engine in a Starlet, but Ian McKenzie at
Select Sales in Miami has done this. The Starlet would be a great chasis
to use for this. I think your Corolla has rear leaf springs which I
don't think work as well as a 4 link rear suspension. It is hard to find
clean Starlets, I just brought one here from Phoenix a few months ago. I
used to have a '72 Corolla Red w. Black vinal top that had the 2TC in it
the engine has a lot of potential with its cross flow design. I can
pretty easily get about 100 hp from a 4KE (Starlet motor) even though it
is not cross flow and uses push rods.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
From: Monte 10-AUG-1995
Craig,
Thanks for the response.
Yeah, I used to talk to Ian McKenzie a number of years ago, as I bought
some stuff from Select Sales. Where is he now, do you know? I remember seeing
a picture of his Starlet. Talk about great looking. He had gotten some
fiberglasser to build up flares for it. Trick paint. Awhile back he said that
he had sold it to someone --maybe in the Carribean.
**And then (cough, cough) he switched over to racing Escorts!!** Maybe he's
come back.
Couple other areas, Craig, we seem to have like minds.
The 2T-C engine does have potential. Right now I'm running mine at
"165 hp" --not tested, just Ian's over the phone estimate some years back.
Details of the parts are listed in Fri.'s (just before yours) toyota-mods post.
It's a pushrod too, but it does flow well.
Also like your idea about the rear. Always hated the leaf spring setup
on the Corolla. As for a Starlet, that's something I want to look into in
great detail. Never even been in one.
Then there's the idea of where to get. I've been talking up a storm to
my wife about going to Arizona (first) or then Southern California, in search
of...
And that's exactly what you've been up to. Certainly figures.
So, anyone ever stuff a 2TC into a Starlet, first hand, that is?
Is it closer between the strut towers? You take away 1/2 in. and I
wouldn't be able to run the Mikuni side drafts with 4" K&N filters anymore
(which I would miss).
Monte
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 15:19:28 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Mods posting
Regarding the recent posting:
>>
>Name: John Page
>Location: Los Angeles, USA
>Model: 1994 Supra Turbo 6 speed
>Engine: turbo
>Mods: R1 racing tires
>email: godknows@aol.com
>>
I have also added Eibach springs and GAB adjustable shocks (for road racing).
Too bad there's such an absence of Supra TT postings. Seems like most of the
guys have other Toyota models! If you know of other TT guys (or gals) please
encourage them to get on the list. Of course there are a lot of postings on
the Supra listserv. It is really a tragedy that the TT has been cancelled!
Toyota finally made a really nasty car and they couldn't hold on to it!
Regards,
John Page
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Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 22:54:03 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Monte and Craig talking about 2T-C in a Starlet
Just a quick note...Those of you who have been on TM forever may remember
about 2 years ago or so when I talked about the guys from Miami who
came up to our track who were circle track racing several Toyotas,
including a Starlet with a 3TC. You may also remember that this guy
KILLED a field of about 30 or more ministockers, starting out on the
pole and finishing without ever being threatened 50 laps later.
I guess what I am saying is that I know of at least one case where
this worked quite well...
Chris
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Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 23:07:17 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods
>Date: Thu, 10 Aug 95 16:15:37 PDT
>From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca (Geoff Seeley)
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>Name: Geoff Seeley
>Location: Duncan, BC, Canada
>Model: 1991 Toyota MR2 turbo
>Engine: 3S-GTE
>Mods: HKS turbo timer IV, HKS PowerFlow, HKS Exhaust
> Redline 75w-90ns in tranny, Mobil-1 synthetic in engine.
> Pioneer 12-disc CD changer. Yokohoma AVS-i tires.
>Future: HKS Twin Power on order, next HKS EVC III and quick shifter kit.
> soon - 16" rims, GAB strut bars, 3 or 4 way saftey belts, etc. ;-)
>EMail: geoff@softwords.bc.ca
>Web: http://mr2.com/
>
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 11 Aug 95 16:01:57
Subject: Project 18-RG Report
It all started when a small Mazda Diesel pick-up truck (bed filled with office
furniture) blew me away at a stop light battle. Not much of a battle really;
although I did try to act like I let him win...
Since that day I was searching for more power. Then someone asked me if I
would be interested in a pair of Mikuni's for 4,000 pesos (us$200). The seller
was taking the carbs from her old 18-RG engine that been sitting on her garage
for almost a year. When I came to pick up the carb, she decided that she'll
give me the whole engine for the same amount of money. I couldn't resist,
the engine needed a new home...
The engine was in a very sorry state. It was very dirty on the outside and the
inside was much worse. The valve train was siezed, the timing chain had too
much slack, all the bearing were worn and the crank was scored. The pistons
were really ugly. Definitely time to rebuild the engine.
I left the engine at JLL Modifieds here in Manila. Then I was fortunate enough
that the company I work for sent me to the US. There I got in touch with
Chris Myer who got me all sorts of neat toys for a really very good price: TRD
plug wires, Velocity Stacks, K&N filters, Crane Ignition, shop manual --
learned a lot, saved some money too! Be sure to check with Chris before you
buy any 'stuff'.
In the meantime, JLL was busy working on the engine. The engine was machined,
balanced, ported, polished, painted.... The oil pump was modified to put out
more pressure and the distributor was rebuilt. The carbs were also rebuilt.
The clutch and pressure plate was replaced.
The engine was lowered into the car during the same weekend I flew back home.
I was hoping that i could go to the shop staight from the airport and pick-up
my car. That was not the case. The whole exhaust system still needed work.
A new one was installed by SMT Mufflers for around US$175. This included
4-into-1 headers and 2" pipes all the way back (no cat).... plus a resonator
and a free flow muffler.
A day later the exhaust was in place... but the carburator linkage was not.
JLL had raised the idle speed in the car and crawled the car to the muffler
shop. A new carb linkage had to be fabricated using some kind of cable.
At this point, JLL noticed that I was getting impatient so they gave me loaner
car -- a turbo '80 Corona Liftback with a 3T-GTE engine... but that's another
story.
A day later I took my car home. But not without any problems. First the
battery was not being charged. A quick trip to a local auto electrician
revealed that the wires leading to the alternator and the regulator were
connected incorrectly. That was fixed in a few minutes. But, the battery is
already old and cannot store the charge. So I had to buy a new one.
The air-conditioner compressor and the power steering pump were also not
installed because the brackets from the old 18-RC engine just won't work. My
old A/C compressor also won't work because its 'huge'. I had to buy a new
compressor and had an A/C shop fabricate some brackets. A day later I had
AC. But, the alternator is not charging again. The AC installer used one fan
belt to drive the AC compressor, the water pump, and the alternator. The
alternator was slipping under load. I took the AC compressor out of the loop
for the meantime. The AC shop need to figure something out this weekend when
I take it back.
The power steering pump is another problem. The distributor on the 18RG is
located in front of the engine, right next to the timing chain cover. Its
where the power steering pump should be. I'll find a solution to that one
soon. There some free space under the distributor near the oil pan, but
clearances will be tight since the engine mount is nearby.
I'm beginning to hate parallel parking on hot days!
Anyway, the break-in process wasn't without problems. First the engine would
'diesel' everytime I turn it off. I had to put the tranny in gear and let-out
the clutch when I turn the engine off. It would also intermittently idle rough
then smoothen out again. Sometimes it will idle so low that it just dies. Not
too good when you're stuck in Manila-style bumper to bumper traffic. I suspect
a vacuum leak somewhere. At least, the thing it doesn't overheat!
I sometimes catch myself wishing that I didn't go ahead with the engine swap;
usually when sitting in a hot car and/or when I'm trying to park. Just too
much headaches! You fix one thing, something else breaks. But I guess getting
'there' is half the fun. The words of my non-gearhead brother echoes in my
head -- "K.I.S.S. Keep it stock, stupid!"
Five hundred miles later, the head was re-torqued and the carbs were rejetted.
The Crane Ignition was also installed. Timing is now set at 40 degrees of
total advance at 3000 rpm. The 'dieseling' is now gone. I've stabbed the
acclerator several times; boy is this engine torquey or what? I have yet to
find an open stretch of road where I can explore the upper limits of the
engine. From what I've seen so far, I know I'll have a lot of fun.
I hope I see that Mazda pick-up soon!
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" <smtpcsar.csah.combtptan@nimajneb.temasek.net>
Subject: Re: Monte and Craig talking about 2T-C in a Starlet
To: temasek!csar!CyberAuto.Com!cmyer@ucbvax.berkeley.edu (Christopher Myer)
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 1995 13:40:13 +0800 (SST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods)
> Just a quick note...Those of you who have been on TM forever may remember
> about 2 years ago or so when I talked about the guys from Miami who
> came up to our track who were circle track racing several Toyotas,
> including a Starlet with a 3TC. You may also remember that this guy
> KILLED a field of about 30 or more ministockers, starting out on the
> pole and finishing without ever being threatened 50 laps later.
>
> I guess what I am saying is that I know of at least one case where
> this worked quite well...
Which "Starlet" are we talking about here?
ben
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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 1995 16:44:55 -0400
From: "Dick Byrd"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: A/C light blinks, no cooling
In message Wolverine
writes:
> Hello all. I have a problem with my A/C. Any time I try to turn on my
> A/C, it engages for a second or two, then disengages and the switch blinks.
> I brought to a mechanic and he wants to replace the speed sensor and
> recharge it for $200+. And he still says he's not sure what the problem is.
> This seems like a rip off. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any advice
> would be appreciated.
Dear Sherwin:
Connect a manifold and gage set to the high and low side acesss
valves. Use a clip-lead from the plus terminal of the battery to force
on the compressor. If the pressure rises very sharply on the high side
exceeding about 450 psi (depending on the ambient temp), your compressor
is cutting off because your high pressure switch doing what it is supposed
to do. Immediately disconnect the clip-lead. You have a clogged up system
- the first place to check is usually the thermostatic valve, bercause it
is the smallest orifrice in the system.
If there is low pressure on the high-side and a negative or *very*
low low-side pressure, the low pressure switch is doing its thing and
cutting off a system which has no freon in it, else the compressor would
sieze up because no lubricant would be circulated.
This test should isolate the problem. Good luck on getting your
hands on some R-12.
Dick
Stuff from Dick Byrd
byrd@mnsinc.com
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From: aarndt@sirius.uvic.ca (Aaron Arndt)
Subject: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 1995 13:52:38 -0700 (PDT)
Allo again all, just back from 2 weeks vacation. Was wondering where the
200 mail messages came from, then saw chris' mods postings :)
Speakin o' my vacation .. i tell ya .. I think i enjoyed whipping down
some of the backroads around here that i discovered, more than i enjoyed
getting to the places. Found some wonderful bits of road (for the few
locals on the list), between Kamloops and Bridge Lake via the Littlefort road, it just seemed to be a real nice pattern. A decent sized hill followed by 1-2
km of flat straight, mostly smooth pavement, with maybe a car or two in the way.
Turns out the real top end for speed on my car seems to be round 170kmh, and
unless i hit a crosswind seems fairly stable, i just love blowing by folks
at that rate :)
But my main whine/question now. We have this nice long section of round
(er road) around here called the Coquhalla, a 2/3 lane 110kmh limit roadway
winding through the mountains, however i found that even going up a mild grade
the little engine simply couldnt maintain even 100kmh in 5th, and it was a strugstruggle keeping 110 in 4th. I NEED MORE POWER. Can anyone fire me some good
ideas as to what i can do to free up or create more power from my little
4 cyl, or, alternately, suggest an engine i should swap in instead (not
that that would happen real soon, but id have something to work towards :)
Im going to take it in for a boxless k&n later this week, do a perf. exhaust
next month probably. was thinking some sort of cam or something further down
the road, but if you folks can suggest a better idea.
BTW .. Does anyone know if there is a short throw shifter made for an 83 Celica?
(and does anyone know if theres a way to add rear discs to the same car?)
Welcome to the list all new peoples, and especially to the fellow from Duncan
BC with the MR2 (sorry, deleted the note and i cant remember your name :).
While im running the Celica, my roomate has an 87 MR2 norm aspirated, and
I was wondering, for his sake, where do you get most of your work done?
Brett Fraser
83 Celica GT, 127000km on the 22RE. (with brand spankin new paintjob and
the stereo 90% installed)
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 00:18:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: EFI
Toyotas which utilize electronic fuel injection have a rev limiter built
into the EFI computer. When the maximum engine rpms are reached, there
is an abrupt cutoff which resembles extreme misfiring. This is even the
case on models in which the EFI computer does not control the ignition in
any way. Is there a simple way to disable the rev-limiter function of the
computer?
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: "James O'Brien"
Subject: 4AGE in TE72.... finally
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 14:04:28 +0800 (WST)
Hi again,
Well, I got my car back on Friday after it had been sitting in a local importers
for two weeks, while they removed my old 3T-C engine and replaced it with a 4A-GE
imported from Japan in a 1988 rear drive Corona.
So now my T-18 (TE-72 chassis) has a 4A-GE (with TVIS), Finer Filter, one piece
tailshaft, Corona gearbox and 2 1/4" exhaust with two Turbo mufflers.
Also as a bonus, I brought home the front cut that they imported the engine in and
as a result I managed to salvage a brake booster, headlights and fog lights, a front
spoiler (which I am yet to fit) and the complete front suspension of the Corona,
complete with power steering gear, disc brakes, struts, springs etc. I also kept a
couple of panels for future rust repairs.
Also as an added bonus I also have a complete air conditioning unit sitting in my
shed waiting for the time and money so that it can be installed into mine.
Along with that I also have sitting in my shed an 3TC motor and Celica gearbox.
The parts on this would be useful for anyone in W.A or anywhere else in Aust. who has
a T-18 or anything with a 2T motor in it.
So if you want any of it give me a yell. Anyone who has any idea what this would
be worth, could you also please drop me a note as I would be interested in selling
it privately or as a last resort to a wrecker. It ahs been suggested that I sell the
cross-member / suspension combination from the Corona in one hit to try to get the
most for it and also to make it easier to free up some space in my shed.
All I need now is a workshop manual for the 4A-GE (anyone got one they don't want?)
and a nice quiet weekend in the country on the roads around my parent's farm......
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Save the Whales .... Collect the whole set.
James O'Brien (obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au)
Temporary student (for another semester anyway)
Are cats supposed to go 'thump' when you dry them in the dryer ?
My opinions are my own. My University has no idea what I am doing.
Come to think of it, neither do I.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 22:01:19 -0700
From: Tony Lanterman
To: aarndt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
>83 Celica GT, 127000km on the 22RE. (with brand spankin new paintjob and
>the stereo 90% installed)
What color? :-)
>(and does anyone know if theres a way to add rear discs to the same car?)
The general consesus I've heard on this one was that if you're dead
set on doing it the best way would be to find an '82-85 Celica GTS
and get the whole rear end set-up off it. That way you end up with
the disk brakes as well as the indipendant rear suspension.
After having mine up in the mountains all weekend (stock Celica
suspensions do _not_ like washer-board gravel roads) I understand
the cruising power complaint. With the thin air it was starting
to feel slow.
Woodsprite
**********************************************************************
* * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite *
* Commuting is * * Unsafe at any speed *
* my life * I don't drive * *
* * fast. * lantera@teleport.com *
* * I fly low. * lanteran@xanth.cs.orst.edu *
* Where's Julie? * * dod #1456 *
* * 72 Honda CB350 * *
**********************************************************************
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Subject: Re: 4AGE in TE72.... finally
To: obrienja@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (James O'Brien)
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 22:59:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: poetma00
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Hi James,
Welcome to the net.
>
> So now my T-18 (TE-72 chassis) has a 4A-GE (with TVIS), Finer Filter, one piece
> tailshaft, Corona gearbox and 2 1/4" exhaust with two Turbo mufflers.
What a nice powertrain combination you got there. I also am working on
putting a 4AGx engine and currently am looking for a good transmission.
As I understand, corona comes standard with R series engines, which uses W
series transmission. How did you manage to put the engine together with
that trans ? Did you take the bellhousing from the old engine and put the
corona transmission to it? Could you tell us more about other modifications
you had to do (i.e., ECU, ignition, clutch, etc.) ?
Thanks,
~~~
Mark Poetiray
~~~
> Also as a bonus, I brought home the front cut that they imported the engine in and
> as a result I managed to salvage a brake booster, headlights and fog lights, a front
> spoiler (which I am yet to fit) and the complete front suspension of the Corona,
> complete with power steering gear, disc brakes, struts, springs etc. I also kept a
> couple of panels for future rust repairs.
>
> Also as an added bonus I also have a complete air conditioning unit sitting in my
> shed waiting for the time and money so that it can be installed into mine.
>
> Along with that I also have sitting in my shed an 3TC motor and Celica gearbox.
> The parts on this would be useful for anyone in W.A or anywhere else in Aust. who has
> a T-18 or anything with a 2T motor in it.
>
> So if you want any of it give me a yell. Anyone who has any idea what this would
> be worth, could you also please drop me a note as I would be interested in selling
> it privately or as a last resort to a wrecker. It ahs been suggested that I sell the
> cross-member / suspension combination from the Corona in one hit to try to get the
> most for it and also to make it easier to free up some space in my shed.
>
> All I need now is a workshop manual for the 4A-GE (anyone got one they don't want?)
> and a nice quiet weekend in the country on the roads around my parent's farm......
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Save the Whales .... Collect the whole set.
>
> James O'Brien (obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au)
> Temporary student (for another semester anyway)
>
> Are cats supposed to go 'thump' when you dry them in the dryer ?
>
> My opinions are my own. My University has no idea what I am doing.
> Come to think of it, neither do I.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 01:31:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: kiksta@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (Seth Willenberg)
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Here's some info on me:
Name : Seth Willenberg
Location: Austin, TX
Model : 1992 MR2 turbo, T-tops
Engine : (3SGTE)2.0 Liter, 16 valve, DOHC, Turbocharged (Twin-entry) -
capable of producing up to 11.8 psi of boost - produces 200 hp
at 6000rpm, and 200lb-ft of torque at 3000rpm (in stock form).
Color : silver-charcoal (metallic)
Mods : Current:
modified turbocharger
high performance exhaust/intake
16" 3-piece steel/alloy wheels
215/40 high performance tires
running synthetics, etc...
Coming Soon:
Twin-turbo module
email : kiksta@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: EFI
To: terlau@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Craig A Terlau)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 00:24:51 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> Toyotas which utilize electronic fuel injection have a rev limiter built
> into the EFI computer. When the maximum engine rpms are reached, there
> is an abrupt cutoff which resembles extreme misfiring. This is even the
> case on models in which the EFI computer does not control the ignition in
> any way. Is there a simple way to disable the rev-limiter function of the
> computer?
Do ALL Toyotas with EFI really have a rev limiter? I know that I either
don't have one or it's not working - I got accidentally up to 8200rpm
while trying (and failing) to get the 2nd gear in and didn't experience
any fuel cutoff despite the factory redline being either 6500 or 7000rpm.
I know that this feature has not been intentionally tampered. Most
Toyota EFI's before 1984 are analog devices, newer ones have a
8051 or 8031 series microcontroller, I believe. On the MR2 list
somebody (with 4A-GE engins) had succesfully replaced the oscillator
with one with higher frequency, which raises the redline in direct
proportion to the change in oscillator frequency. Which engine
are we talking about here?
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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To: Kalalahti Matti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: EFI
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 15:00:54 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> Kalalahti Matti writes:
> I got accidentally up to 8200rpm
> while trying (and failing) to get the 2nd gear in
So, you blipped the throttle but didn't get the gear engaged, so the
revs went way up?
Of course, if you shift a gear to low for your current speed, you'll
overrev the engine because the drivetrain will speed it up.
I've hit the rev limiter on my 1986 MA61 Supra. The revs topped out
at 7400rpm or so. I was too busy to see exactly. The official red
line is at 6500rpm.
> Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
Dan.
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To: Kalalahti Matti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 95 09:14:52 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
>>I own a 1975 Toyota Corolla 2dr Sedan (that's right, not much of a
>>performance car).
> The diff is the 6.38" I believe. Very weak. I put a new one
> in & it developed backlash in about 2 weeks (well, I did redline
> in 1st & slammed it into 2nd, so I guess there is a reason for it).
Hey, that's normal driving!
:-)
>Heh, how serious do ya wanna get =)
>
> Not sure yet :-). Put it this way, I'm even sorta considering
> a Nissan SR20DET or 3S-GTE! For various reasons I don't think
> I'll being using these though. Overkill really, along with a
> temptation to use the power.
Why would you want a fast car if you weren't going to USE the power?
Because :-
1) I may be tempted to use it in the wrong situations
2) I don't want to lose my licence
3) Other drivers really don't expect you to be here one minute & there
the next, plus they invariably drive to closely behind & many
wouldn't have much hope stopping in the distance that I can.
>Did you consider camber adjustment plates ?
>
> I thought they were going to include these but it didn't happen.
> Tyres are dead flat to the ground (0 deg camber) at the moment.
> Time will tell if this is a good thing (will most likely go for
> a degree or two of neg camber, either adjustable or via a strut
> bend).
Are those the only two choices? (Ok, I won't even consider
the bending option for me).
They don't actually bend the strut insert itself I believe. Another
choice would be to modify the lower arms to bring out the bottom of
the strut (have spoken to someone who's done this).
At any rate, my current camber is theoretically spot on for even tyre
wear in street driving. In practice however, i find that the outside
of the left tyre wears more quickly. Will see what happens with the
new setup.....
>Twin spot calipers huh =) Neat =) I want a set =)
>
> I'm not sure if they are twin-spot or not. Was told they are
> though. These are a bolt-in fit for the KE series Corolla's.
>From what model are those calipers?
Corona RT142 (5dr liftback). I checked this out recently & they are
in fact twin-piston per side.
>>As far as the rear-end goes, it seems the logical choice would be a
>disc braked Sprinter rear (GTS corolla in th US).
>
>Yes, I agree totally.
Yup, that's been done numerous times.
>As you say handling is important to you, however, what is your
>driving style ?
>
>I do belive in safe driving, although I enjoy reasonable "spirited street
>driving" on occasion.
>
> I do like the feeling of taking a perfect line thru a corner at
> speed. Just a frustrated racer at heart I guess! To me this is
> more fun than absolute speed.
The most enjoyable driving for me are the twisty countryroads,
at speeds between 120 and 180km/h, taking every curve right to the
limit while balancing the car with both steering and throttle, and
then slamming the throttle wide open when coming out of the corner,
and the weight shift plants the rear tyres firmly to the asphalt...
Yeah, this is fun :-)
This will also result in the drivers licence staying with me,
which travelling always above 200km/h+ down the highways might not ;)
>Basically right now it seems to be a decision weither or not to turbo.
>Thats one of the first points, since you list the 3T-GTE, and the 1G-GE
>motor, however don't list the 1G-GTE motor.
>
> Hey, at around 185Kw I may as well put wings on the car & use
> it as a plane :-). Once again though, this is a possibility.
I think 1G-GTE is an excellent engine if you're NOT going to start heavily
modifying the engine. If you are, it would be a choice between
7M-GTE or 3S-GTE.
>Basically you want a non-turbo motor, so you don't have to worry about
>the "boost comming in at the wrong times" or such.
>Its a lot easier to race with a non-turbo motor that the power curves
>are "predictable". However this also means no "raw horsepower" stretchs
>and a disadvantage on "pulling" power on straight aways.
There are no predictability problems with turbo engines, you just need
to learn the behavior of your engine. Boost gauge is IMHO as important
as tach... If you're serious about racing, you want to modify either
your power curve or gearing so that you won't drop out of your peak
power rpms when on the track.
> Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
now I need to learn that once again...
One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
David Coulthard ;)
True, but it does make things worse. Then again, tyres make all the
difference. The car wasn't mine & although the tyres had enough
tread depth, I think they were old & hence quite hard. Plus, they
weren't overly good tyres to start with.
>Also, are you going to keep the fuel injection ? Or go carbs ?
>
> EFI all the way. Either a Haltec or Electromotive. Any comments
> on either of these?
Don't have first hand experience with either. But for a car for streets
too, I wouldn't even think about replacing EFI with carbs...
>The 4AGE motor is a GOOD all around motor in which I belive in the
>multi-valve techonology. The main kicker is the price in which to
>build one.
>
> Well, current prices for an Import here in Aust, last time I
> checked, was about $1000 for Engine & 'Box. Not too bad.
About $1000 here too... less than half what you'd have to pay
for 3T-GTE here.
>I do like the 3T-TGE motor, and it works DAMM well. No complaints, just
>I'd rather go with techonology with a multi valve motor. Thats my
>thought about or the only complaint I have about t-series motors,
>however the Hemi design and proven "indestructable" bottom end
>is hard to ignore. You can't argue with over 20 years of reliable
>performance =)
>
> True. Good point. Especially with a turbo, intake valve area
> isn't as much of an issue as with an Atmo engine.
I'm not sure if my engines head is stock, but in my case I think
52mm intake valves aren't going to be the first bottleneck.
>You mention the 1G-GE motor. Personally, you can't mess with this motor
>and its reputation.
>
> I haven't checked this out, but I don't think it came out in
> any car over here, except for maybe older Cressida's.
>
> They're cheap though -- how does $295 for a 2nd-hand import
> sound?
$295???? What's the catch? I'd be building Corollas with those
engines for living if I could get them that cheap ;)
>I WANT a 1G-GTE motor myself, to shove in my 1980 Corolla, and been trying
>to get my hands on one... get me a price quote =)
>
> Someone here was selling one for about $1800 tricked up, with
> Auto 'box, no computer. He had it in his '84 (?) Supra I think.
> 185kW! Bolt-in fit! Jealous yet :-) ?
No computer... how on earth do at least half of the used engines
come without it? Do they weld those things apart so carelessly
that they usually fry the computers?
Computers are available, but usually cost extra. They are usually
left behind when the engine's removed I guess. A half-cut would
include it though.
>>It would appear that the 4AG would be the most appropriate here as
>>it's the lightest (less weight over the front end).
>>However, I'm not sure I'll be happy with the power.
>
>Do you plan major mods with the motor ? Or keeping it "basically stock"
>Its a decent motor, and good all around. The power is there and its crisp.
>
> Just slight mods, nothing much internally at this stage.
> Drivability is an issue for the street. I'm looking for
> something that will be pretty much right power-wise from
> the start. Rather than get an engine & later mod it, I'd
> prefer to get a bigger & more powerful engine to start with.
> Then again, you always end up wanting more .....
You'd probably find the 4A-GE's 112hp not enough for you...
Once you would get into modifying it you'd reach its reliable
power output quickly. It's just a 1.6 liter engine after all,
and it can't handle over 170hp without a lot of expensive
modifications (rods, bolts, pistons, lifters etc).
You can get over 200hp out of these, but it will cost you
an arm and a leg, at the very least...
>I'm happy in switching to the 4AG motor from a T-series motor, however
>I cringe at the thought of it blowing up -shrug-
You won't blow it unless you try to run it above 8500 rpm or so
for extended periods with stock lifters & springs.
The above was Allen & not me (PM). From what I can see, the 4AG is
very reliable.
>>Has anyone heard much about the 20-Valve 4AGE with variable Valve Timing?
>>I can have one of these imported but it will cost about $4000
>>(a bit too much).
>
>I belive thats the Apex Twin Cam motor, 5 vavles per cylinder that
>comes with the Levins.
>
> Does that mean they come into the US? If so, what are they like?
I'd like to hear more about them too. Please?
Yes, once again, any info on the 20-Valve version is welcome.
>>As far as the 3T-GTEU, I think it may place too much weight over
>>the front-end,hence reducing handling.
Might be a problem as such a light car that you have, but that's the
case for all your alternatives except 4A-GE. Actually ANY engine
will be heavier than your 3K... So move the battery to the back,
maybe see if you can lighten up the front bumper, get rid of possible
oil pan armour...
Yep, well I plan to put a boxed sub-woofer in the rear (removable)
& I usually try to keep the fuel tank full to help weight distribution.
Good thing about the tank is that it's over the back wheels.
Weight past the wheels isn't too good for handling from what I can
see -- true?
>I do belive the 3T-GTE motor sits lower then the others.
>
> That would be a bonus. Also, room for a strut brace!
Barely. There isn't that much room to spare. I measured the maximum
dimensions for the engine, height=66cm, width=68cm, length=68cm
(with viscous fan).
Yes, BIG engine in a small space!
>>Also, what sort of lag does this engine have?
>
>Lag can be reduced by techonology, blow off valves, fuel computers,
>etc etc.
>
> This will also be taken into account. It's just that in the Turbo
> I drove, I found the lag a bit annoying when cornering -- when I
> want power I want it *NOW*.
<2000rpm - avoid
2000-3000rpm - ok for driving, but no ohmigod power
but once you get to 3000-4000rpm the turbo will keep peak power
up to 7000rpm redline... stay above 4000rpm and the lag won't bother
you. Have a look at my WWW page for torque/power
curves, or I can send the .gif to you uuencoded if you want.
Yep, have checked this out -- much good info. Your Carina looks
similar to what we call a T-18. I think the Carina is a bit bigger
& hevaier though -- the 3T-GTE looks like it belongs in there.
BTW, cool music tastes.
>>Apparently the 3T is easily capable of 200hp.
>
>Yes, it is VERY capable of such numbers, and with relability.
Yes, from 4200rpm to near redline... and that's without an intercooler
(getting one soon, I hope)!
>>Sounds nice, but is the lag & weight penalty worth it?
For me, hell yes!
(But I got 50-50 weight distribution with 2/3 full fuel tank).
I don't think it would be the same in my case. Check out the car when
Chris puts the pix on the Web site.
>>Also, how reliable are they (proper maintenance>& Idle-down being a given)?
>
>They are very realible, I belive. I've only worked with one turbo model, and
>that basically was a custom modification. However, if you do proper
>turbo "mechanics" you won't encounter any other problems.
Keep the mixture rich enough and don't shut it off with red-hot turbo.
Those two given - very very reliable. Rev limiter might not be a bad
idea though, I got to 8200rpm when having a disagreement with the
2nd gear synchros - no ill effects thank god.
Yep, the above is a given. I happen to have a spare Turbo Timer
sitting at home too.
> Yes, it will be all done professionally. Apparently, to actually
> mount the engine in the bay, only the turbo side mount needs
> to be moved. Remember, we didn't get the 2T engine out here.
We did so we have plenty of engine bays in Carinas, Celicas and Corollas
with T-series mounts ;)
Sorry, I meant we didn't see the T series engines in our Corolla's.
We too had them in Celica's, but never saw the Carina.
>>The 1GGE would have great torque I'd imagine, but what does it rev like?
>>Is this engine even heavier than a 3T-GTE?
>
>I do belive its a bit heavier then the 3T motor, however, the power from
>the motor and the torque from sheer displacement would be worth it.
>
>I do belive its a 2.5 block.
>
> If you mean capacity, the 1GGE is 2.0 L I think (but I could
> be wrong).
Definately it is just 1988cc engine. So peak torque is only 134lbft
vs the 152lbft of stock 3T-GTE or my 245lbft ;)
1G-GTE has 203lbft. For more info, see the engines list on my WWW
pages.
I don't think the weight penalty warrants it. After speaking to the
guys who did my brakes a week ago, I'm leaning more towards the 4AG
again. They have seen a fair few on the track (in Corolla's & T-18's).
"Very Quick" was their expression. They think that something like
a 3T-GTE would ruin the handling. Less weight over the front the
better they say. They are also getting an engine builder in who used
to be a race mechanic for BMW's JPS team here in Aust. So, I will
most likely get everything done there -- Engine Conversion, EFI, Rear
Brakes/Suspension etc.
Also, since these aren't "Toyota" guys particularly, I may even
consider (SHOCK! HORROR!) a Nissan SR20 -- low weight as it's all
alloy. I actually drove a Pulsar with one of these for a week &
liked it.
>>Finally, it would seem that the 3SGE would probably fit my purposes best --
>>power, weight, responsiveness etc. taken into account.
>>Comments?
To summarize my recommendation for your engine:
I think 3S-GE would be the best naturally aspirated engine in your case.
If you decide you want more (turbocharged) power, I'd say 3S-GTE
is your best choice if you have the $$$$'s. If not, go for the
3T-GTE. Those sixes are just too large and heavy for a Corolla,
if handling is an issue...
>>For Gearbox, I'd imagine my choices are a RWD Corolla box to fit the 4AGE
>>(once again Sprinter/Corolla GTS).
>>For the rest, a Supra box would be the go.
Absolutely correct.
>>Comments?
>
>The T-50 trans is easily fitted to all of the motors as you say.
>Perhaps find a wrecked Levin and take parts from it ?
>
> Well, for a start, the only Levin's in Aust are personnal imports
> for racing purposes. They don't meet Aust design rules, hence
> can't be registered for road use without mods.
>
> The T-50 'box is the Corolla RWD 'box?
T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
engines and 3T-GTE.
What 'boxes mate up to the 4AG apart from the T-50?
>>Also, would a 3.9 'diff ratio be most appropriate for the "torqueier"
>>engines, whilst a 4.1 would be better for a 4AGE? Cruising rev's & fuel
~5% won't make a huge difference, but I agree with you.
>>economy is an issue here as well (but performance is No. 1 priority :-).
>
>Depends on your motor set up also. Power curves etc etc, proably a turbo
>motor would suit you the best in the long run.
When I changed from 4.1 to 3.727 I lost nothing in acceleration, but
got more relaxed cruising revs (4080rpm@140km/h is typical for me).
I do have to downshift to make a 100% efficient pass more often
though, so 3rd and 4th gear see more use now...
> Too true. The turbo I drove was good like that. Docile in
> traffic, but plant the right foot & away you go. Lined up a
> Suzuki RGV 250 bike one day ('coz a mate of mine used to always
> brag about how no car could out-accelerate him on his). Result :
> Commodore VS Suzuki : TIE. Gee that car was quick ....
Motorbikes seem to be the only vehicles I get to stoplight race
anymore... others are rarely of any competition at all.
>Nah nah nah, I think we need to know what type of club racing
>and what sorta daily driving habits you have with this vehicle.
>
> Hopefully I've given you more of an idea. I'll have to think
> about this some more & find out more about the types of
> circuits I'm likely to see. As far as I know, it will be all
> types -- tight ones hard on brakes & needing good handling, along
> with open ones where power is more of an issue. Just to confuse
> matters more.
If the circuits you will race are very slow (most of the time below
50mph or so) a naturally aspirated engine will have a significant
advantage. Otherwise, go for a turbo...
My guess, after speaking to the guys that did my brakes, is that the
circuits rely a lot on handling & are tight. Will have to actually
ask them though (I asked them about everything else!).
> Guess I'm after the perfect car huh :-> .
Aren't we all ;) Anyone have a Supra TT or Celica GT-4 or MR2 Turbo
to donate to a good home? =)
MR2 would be my choice. Send to Peter Mejak 59 Su...... :-)
>I guess AC is not an important issue ?
>
> I would like to fit this eventually. May be a bit of a space
> problem if I get the 3T. Rest of the engines, should be ok.
> I've seen pictures of 3T's into this car -- tight squeeze.
I don't have much space under the hood or my Carina either, but I know
that many people have stuffed the AC in there.
>I would personally go with techonology and a turbo.
>Multi valve motor plus turbo.
I'd find it hard to drive a car without a turbo anymore, I got
addicted to the (mid/high-range) power...
Yep, I know. I'm currently driving a Datsun 120Y (B210 in the US?).
Let's just say that it makes me appreciate what I had in the Corolla!
It all depends what you get used to.
Welcome to the list and good luck with your project!
Thanks Matti, & thanks for taking the time to reply.
BTW, sounds like a few people have recently joined the list & have
done what I plan to do, in Aust. Any of you new guys care to comment
on your cars? Or need some performance tips for them?
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: EFI
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 03:28:12 +0300 (EET DST)
> > I got accidentally up to 8200rpm
> > while trying (and failing) to get the 2nd gear in
>
> So, you blipped the throttle but didn't get the gear engaged, so the
> revs went way up?
Yup. After changing the diff I decided to also try testing the
performance without most of the exhaust system (left just the part
down from the turbo to the first muffler in place). It was LOUD!
Bearable for <5 minutes, but after that it gave a headache...
Anyway, after making a couple of recorded test runs (10mph->130mph,
a couple of 2nd and 3rd gear 2000->7000rpm) I decided to try
launching from dead stop (I still had those cursed Dunlop D40's then)
with everything going on tape for analyzing later: 5000rpm, drop the
clutch, spin both rear tyres through the first gear up to 7300rpm
(oops), then tried to do a regular fast shift to 2nd gear, but it
did NOT go in, and by this time my right foor had laready gotten
on the acclerator expecting the 2nd gear to be already in as
it was supposed to be. Result: grinding the 2nd gear and setting
the new record rpm for my engine at 8200rpm... All the noise because
of the missing exhaust contributed to me not noticing the missed shift.
Sometimes I have hard time at getting the next gear when I'm near redline,
but it doesn't happen all the time. I suspect the clutch hydraulics...
(synchros might be somewhat worn too)
> Of course, if you shift a gear to low for your current speed, you'll
> overrev the engine because the drivetrain will speed it up.
Nah, I've never done that. I tend to watch at my guages before
shifting.
> Dan.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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To: Kalalahti Matti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Subject: Re: EFI
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 17:48:45 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> Kalalahti Matti writes:
> Nah, I've never done that. I tend to watch at my guages before
> shifting.
Hmmn. Guess I'm not as on top of things as you! Last week I
downshifted my 4Runner to 2nd at about 65mph, which was not a good
move. No apparent damage, though. I was desperate to get
acceleration and didn't think it through.
> Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
Dan.
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 20:20:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: EFI
Thank you for your response to my question Matti! I should have been
more specific. Can you provide me with information on disabling the
rev-limiter on an 83-84 Starlet 4KE with EFI? I guess this one contains
the pre-1984 analog computer you refered to in your response.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 20:28:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Muffler
My Starlet uses a 4-2-1 header from Martilias in Finland. The output
from the header is 2.25 inches. I have run it into a 2.5 inch exhaust
which goes over the rear axle, is hung from two rubber doughnuts at the
highest point above the rear axle (very solid place to hang from), and
terminates in a straight through 2.5 inch muffler. It revs freely and
seems to work very well, but is very loud!
Can anyone suggest a way to minimize noise in a 2.5 inch exhaust system
while utalizing straight through mufflers? Would it help if I placed a
second straight through muffler after the header? What about a
resinator, what is the function of those things?
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: Muffler
To: terlau@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Craig A Terlau)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 11:49:36 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> My Starlet uses a 4-2-1 header from Martilias in Finland. The output
> from the header is 2.25 inches. I have run it into a 2.5 inch exhaust
> which goes over the rear axle, is hung from two rubber doughnuts at the
> highest point above the rear axle (very solid place to hang from), and
> terminates in a straight through 2.5 inch muffler. It revs freely and
> seems to work very well, but is very loud!
I think that 2.5" is too big, especially if your collector is only 2.25"
My system ends in 2.5" collector off the TRD headers, to a 2.25" cat conv.
and 2.25" pipe to a 2.25" resonator, and then 2" from there through a 2"
turbo style (triple flow) muffler. As the gases get further from the source,
they cool down and so loose mass, the smaller sizes are to keep the velocity
up.
>
> Can anyone suggest a way to minimize noise in a 2.5 inch exhaust system
> while utalizing straight through mufflers? Would it help if I placed a
> second straight through muffler after the header? What about a
> resinator, what is the function of those things?
run a resonator before the muffler. The resonator is basically a straight
through resonator. I use the turbo style muffler, and its configuration
(offset/centre) got rid of the boom in the cabin. My system is quiet loud, but
not too overbearing, certainly a lot quieter than a lot of other cars.
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 21:55:51 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
Ah, a question I can answer! How to make your 83 Celica sing.
1. Get a decent 20R head.
-Remove air injection tubes (drill and plug holes.)
-Valve Job
-Do a "clean-up" surfacing (Not looking for a compr gain.)
-Install some good performance valve springs
-New rockers if the old ones are ugly. Aluminum if you
really want to rock and roll.
2. Get a good cheap header (Pacesetter, about $80.) and a performance
exhaust.
3. Get a set of Mikuni Sidedrafts (Your "big expense")
4. Get a good regrind cam.
5. Bolt everything up. Degree the cam, tune the carbs, shim up the oil
pump for a little more pressure.
Now, this is the cheap way to go, short term. When that extra 50 hp
throws a rod through through the side of the block, you'll probably
holler at me. So, I would recommend completely preparing the bottom-
end before doing all of this:
Have the rods and crank magnafluxed as a minimum. I'd recommend going
ahead and having it stress relieved, baked, shotpeened, and balanced.
Put everything back together with a new timing chain kit (including
an adjustable timing chain sprocket) and .5mm overbore 10.5:1 compression
pistons. Now you're up to at or above 180 hp, and something that might
hurt the feelings of a stock Mustang GT if you catch it running a little
out of tune. With the additional compression, you'd be well advised to
throw on a good MSD 6 ignition and some Magnecor wires. LC engineering
recommends tossing the stock distributor for a Mallory HyFire performance
ignition, but I really don't know if that's necessary.
Oh, and this setup will embarass even a well tuned GT if you put a
very low-geared differential in.
Of course, I've just spent about $2000 of your money at this point. But
hey, you can't take it with you when you go, so you may as well buy some-
thing that can impress your friends while you're here!
Chris
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 22:02:39 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Resending this blounce!
(From Paul, actually. I'm just resending. See the h*lp in the included
text?)--chris
>On Mon, 14 Aug 1995, Craig A Terlau wrote:
>
>> Can anyone suggest a way to minimize noise in a 2.5 inch exhaust system
>> while utalizing straight through mufflers? Would it h*lp if I placed a
>> second straight through muffler after the header? What about a
>> resinator, what is the function of those things?
>
>I am running a 2.5 inch exhaust on my KE-25 with two resonators between
>the end of the extractors and the diff loop and a single stright through
>muffler at the rear. The resonators essentially brake up the sound as it
>travels through the pipe and this seems to have worked well on my car
>(albeit a tight squeeze underneath!)
>
>Cheers,
>
> Paul.
>------------------------------------------------------------
> Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
> Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
> B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
> Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 22:08:29 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Muffler
>My system ends in 2.5" collector off the TRD headers, to a 2.25" cat conv.
>and 2.25" pipe to a 2.25" resonator, and then 2" from there through a 2"
>turbo style (triple flow) muffler. As the gases get further from the source,
>they cool down and so loose mass, the smaller sizes are to keep the velocity
>up.
Man, ya gotta love a guy that understands flow! Anybody got a good
text on fluid dynamics or anything? I'm looking for one. I am
convinced that most of these guys that flow/port heads are just hackers
that assume bigger is better. We need a good lecture here--any
mechanical engineers up to the task? Come on, don't be shy!
Chris
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: Muffler
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 12:51:48 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> Man, ya gotta love a guy that understands flow! Anybody got a good
> text on fluid dynamics or anything? I'm looking for one. I am
> convinced that most of these guys that flow/port heads are just hackers
> that assume bigger is better. We need a good lecture here--any
> mechanical engineers up to the task? Come on, don't be shy!
>
I don't claim to know much about engineers, but I had the chance to try a few
different pipe sizes, and you can certainly tell that a ultra large system
actually lost power. Unless the motor is very worked and only produces power
way up in the rev range, an exhaust system which is too large may not be of
any use. I saw the same car with two different exhaust systems on a dyno and
the difference was quite a lot. That is why I went with TRD for headers, I
figured that they had done their homework on the matter and that other pipe
benders would just use a formula which worked on one car. BTW. anyone tried
a 4-1 config with 33-36" long primaries on the street?? I am told this works
very well, and is actually quite streetable.
those large systems (personally 2.5" would be too big for a street 1.6L as in
mine) make a lot of noise, but dont do much for throttle response. I had a
full 2.25" system with one muffler for a while (4 days) and that was no good
at all. Went back to 2" predomidantly and the car became a lot better.
TEd
PS I know a guy with a 4AGE (stock bar exhaust after cat) who claims that his
2.75" system gives him heaps of power. I may agree with him that his system
is better than mine above 9000rpm.
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 06:50:50 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Monte and Craig talking about 2T-C in a Starlet
>Which "Starlet" are we talking about here?
Uh, Toyota? ;-) Sorry, I'm not much of a Starlet guru. It was small,
it was fast, it won.
Chris
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To: craig a terlau
Cc: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 15 Aug 95 10:40:37
Subject: Re: Muffler
Craig A. Terlau writes:
"My Starlet uses a 4-2-1 header from Martilias in Finland. The output
from the header is 2.25 inches. I have run it into a 2.5 inch exhaust
which goes over the rear axle, is hung from two rubber doughnuts at the
highest point above the rear axle (very solid place to hang from), and
terminates in a straight through 2.5 inch muffler. It revs freely and
seems to work very well, but is very loud!
Can anyone suggest a way to minimize noise in a 2.5 inch exhaust system
while utalizing straight through mufflers? Would it help if I placed a
second straight through muffler after the header? What about a
resinator, what is the function of those things?"
I have installed a resonator right after the headers and the sound levels were
lowered significantly; I can now hear the carbs over the exhaust... and carry
normal conversations with my passengers : ). I believe the engine still revs
freely like before, although I have no scientific method of determining this
--- just regular seat-of-the-pants feel. The resonator that was installed is
basically a smaller version of the free flow muffler. I believe the resonator
removes the low frequency rumble and the muffler removes the high frequency
sound. Or its the other way around.... I'm not sure. :) Anyone?
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 11:57:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: Peter Mejak
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
On Tue, 15 Aug 1995, Peter Mejak wrote:
> >>I own a 1975 Toyota Corolla 2dr Sedan (that's right, not much of a
> >>performance car).
KE-30/50 series ?
> >Did you consider camber adjustment plates ?
> >
> > I thought they were going to include these but it didn't happen.
> > Tyres are dead flat to the ground (0 deg camber) at the moment.
> > Time will tell if this is a good thing (will most likely go for
> > a degree or two of neg camber, either adjustable or via a strut
> > bend).
>
> Are those the only two choices? (Ok, I won't even consider
> the bending option for me).
Check out the early Celica struts and lower control arms (71-75) - I believe
they are a straight swap into the KE-30 series Corollas. I know a couple
of friends who are rallying them with Celica struts. The lower arms are
longer and should give you some extra neg.
> >Twin spot calipers huh =) Neat =) I want a set =)
> >
> > I'm not sure if they are twin-spot or not. Was told they are
> > though. These are a bolt-in fit for the KE series Corolla's.
>
> >From what model are those calipers?
>
> Corona RT142 (5dr liftback). I checked this out recently & they are
> in fact twin-piston per side.
These happen to bolt on to the early Celica struts I believe :)
> >>As far as the rear-end goes, it seems the logical choice would be a
> >disc braked Sprinter rear (GTS corolla in th US).
> >
> >Yes, I agree totally.
>
> Yup, that's been done numerous times.
Another option which I have used in my KE-25 is a Datsun 120Y late model
Borg Warner diff. They are a *lot* cheaper than a Sprinter diff and
Bluebird TRX discs are a fairly easy install. They have the added
advantage that you can fit a Datsun Stanza diff centre which are
reasonably easy to find as an LSD version.
> >I do belive in safe driving, although I enjoy reasonable "spirited street
> >driving" on occasion.
> >
> > I do like the feeling of taking a perfect line thru a corner at
> > speed. Just a frustrated racer at heart I guess! To me this is
> > more fun than absolute speed.
>
> The most enjoyable driving for me are the twisty countryroads,
> at speeds between 120 and 180km/h, taking every curve right to the
> limit while balancing the car with both steering and throttle, and
> then slamming the throttle wide open when coming out of the corner,
> and the weight shift plants the rear tyres firmly to the asphalt...
Ditto on dirt ;)
> >Basically right now it seems to be a decision weither or not to turbo.
> >Thats one of the first points, since you list the 3T-GTE, and the 1G-GE
> >motor, however don't list the 1G-GTE motor.
> >
> > Hey, at around 185Kw I may as well put wings on the car & use
> > it as a plane :-). Once again though, this is a possibility.
What are the legalities of of Turbo-charged engines in your state ? I
know that in Queensland it is illegal to fit a supercharger and/or turbo
to a car which was never produced with one. (Not that this has stopped us ;)
> I think 1G-GTE is an excellent engine if you're NOT going to start heavily
> modifying the engine. If you are, it would be a choice between
> 7M-GTE or 3S-GTE.
One problem is availability of parts in Australia for the 1G-GTE as they
were never released here. Shame.
> > Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> > I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> > slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
>
> Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
> but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
> now I need to learn that once again...
> One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
> David Coulthard ;)
Easy solution - *join* a local car club and compete in organised
sprints/lap dashes/motorkhanas etc - nothing like controlled
experimenting without having to worry if the local police are around the
corner 8)
> >Also, are you going to keep the fuel injection ? Or go carbs ?
> >
> > EFI all the way. Either a Haltec or Electromotive. Any comments
> > on either of these?
>
> Don't have first hand experience with either. But for a car for streets
> too, I wouldn't even think about replacing EFI with carbs...
Awww - I like the sound of Webers ;) This could be dependant on if you
are going racing and what class you will be in. With rallying an older
Corolla you have to run twin carbs as the engines were never installed
with EFI. You can also only run a 2T-G.
> >>It would appear that the 4AG would be the most appropriate here as
> >>it's the lightest (less weight over the front end).
> >>However, I'm not sure I'll be happy with the power.
Have you considered the 4AGZE ? (supercharged version ?) A friend has one
in a 71 model KE-25 group G rally car. With a Hilux Detroit Locker it
absolutely hammers! Reasonably cheap too (I think total install incl EFI
harness etc was around $2000 (done by himself).
> >>Has anyone heard much about the 20-Valve 4AGE with variable Valve Timing?
> >>I can have one of these imported but it will cost about $4000
> >>(a bit too much).
> >
> >I belive thats the Apex Twin Cam motor, 5 vavles per cylinder that
> >comes with the Levins.
> >
> > Does that mean they come into the US? If so, what are they like?
>
> I'd like to hear more about them too. Please?
>
> Yes, once again, any info on the 20-Valve version is welcome.
I beleive a contact has a magazine from Japan with a couple of articles
on these - will see what I can dig up.
> >>As far as the 3T-GTEU, I think it may place too much weight over
> >>the front-end,hence reducing handling.
This can be a problem *but* we also have a car in the club (KE-55) which
has said engine in it and whenever I have driver it the handling has been
excellent. As mentioned by Matti the weight distribution can be adjusted
to compensate for the larger motor by relocating things to the rear of
the car.
> >I do belive the 3T-GTE motor sits lower then the others.
> >
> > That would be a bonus. Also, room for a strut brace!
>
> Barely. There isn't that much room to spare. I measured the maximum
> dimensions for the engine, height=66cm, width=68cm, length=68cm
> (with viscous fan).
It is a very tight fit - but you can fit a strut brace in.
> >>Also, how reliable are they (proper maintenance>& Idle-down being a given)?
> >
> >They are very realible, I belive. I've only worked with one turbo model, and
> >that basically was a custom modification. However, if you do proper
> >turbo "mechanics" you won't encounter any other problems.
The KE-55 which is used regularly in club events is very reliable. It
does not see an easy life :)
> Sorry, I meant we didn't see the T series engines in our Corolla's.
> We too had them in Celica's, but never saw the Carina.
I have see a TE-20 in Australia once. Fortunately the modifaction of
engine mounts to fit the T series engines into the early Corollas is
simple enough. They also have the bolt holes in the chassis rails for the
celica five-speed (about 60mm back - just use the original crossmember).
I would also change the tail-shaft to the AMI Corolla version which had
much larger Universal joints (same size as a six cylinder Holden!)
> Also, since these aren't "Toyota" guys particularly, I may even
> consider (SHOCK! HORROR!) a Nissan SR20 -- low weight as it's all
> alloy. I actually drove a Pulsar with one of these for a week &
> liked it.
Bleagh - sacrilege! ;) Then again, we were toying with the idea of a
Turbo 13-B in a KE-17 for hill-climbs :)
> To summarize my recommendation for your engine:
> I think 3S-GE would be the best naturally aspirated engine in your case.
> If you decide you want more (turbocharged) power, I'd say 3S-GTE
> is your best choice if you have the $$$$'s. If not, go for the
> 3T-GTE. Those sixes are just too large and heavy for a Corolla,
> if handling is an issue...
Check out the 4AGZE as well from the importers. They are light and FAST.
> >The T-50 trans is easily fitted to all of the motors as you say.
> >Perhaps find a wrecked Levin and take parts from it ?
> >
> > Well, for a start, the only Levin's in Aust are personnal imports
> > for racing purposes. They don't meet Aust design rules, hence
> > can't be registered for road use without mods.
> >
> > The T-50 'box is the Corolla RWD 'box?
>
> T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
> T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
> engines and 3T-GTE.
In Australia...
T50 - 71-78 model celicas and T-18s
w series - I think the later celicas (they are a steel-case as opposed to
allow case - if weight is a concern go for the alloy)
> Motorbikes seem to be the only vehicles I get to stoplight race
> anymore... others are rarely of any competition at all.
We have a guy in Queensland who owns a Turbo-charged Escort with 2-speed
Valiant power-glide tranny - runs 10 flat down the quarter mile and it is
street registered! He has fun with the many V-8 cars we have in Aus :)
> BTW, sounds like a few people have recently joined the list & have
> done what I plan to do, in Aust. Any of you new guys care to comment
> on your cars? Or need some performance tips for them?
Hope this is of some help.
Paul. (Corolla KE-25 2T-G-1/2 road car :)
(Gemini series Holden Gemini rally car)
------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 15:27:41 -0400
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (toyota-modsmailinglist)
Subject: rev limiter
Do you know if the rev limiter on the Supra TT works on downshifts as well as
upshifts? In other words, I feel the fuel shut off at 7,000rpm as I
accelerate. But if I miss a downshift and hit too low a gear and the engine
wants to go way beyond 7,000 will the rev limiter catch it? I'm told that in
many cars the rev limiter only works on accelerating not on downshifts.
The issue came up a few weeks ago as I was road racing at Willow Springs and
came barreling down the front straight in 5th at God knows what speed (well
over 100) and prepared for the high speed left hand sweeper, turn one. I
braked for all I was worth, heel and toed into 4th (whoops that's 2nd I
caught! @#$%^&*! - good thing I realized it before the clutch was let out all
the way and I was able to salvage it) But if I wouldn't have caught it would
I have ended up with a metal salad?
Thanks.
John Page
BTW, I changed the tranny liquid to Red Line's MTL. Much nicer shifts. The
synchros love it. Much better than the factory ATF.
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To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (toyota-modsmailinglist)
Subject: Re: rev limiter
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 12:41:18 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> GODKNOWS@aol.com writes:
> Do you know if the rev limiter on the Supra TT works on downshifts as well as
> upshifts? In other words, I feel the fuel shut off at 7,000rpm as I
> accelerate. But if I miss a downshift and hit too low a gear and the engine
> wants to go way beyond 7,000 will the rev limiter catch it? I'm told that in
> many cars the rev limiter only works on accelerating not on
> downshifts.
There's very little the rev limited could do in a downshift. The
engine will be overreved by the fact that you're vehicle is moving at
a speed that will mechanically force the engine to spin too fast. The
rev limiter might still cut the fuel or ignition, but that won't
prevent the engine from overreving. Only if there was a mechanism to
keep the clutch from engaging when the gear shift was in a suicidal
gear could the car prevent a downshift-caused overrev. Alternatively,
the tranny could lockout suicidal gears.
With an auto tranny, at least on the MA61, the tranny won't downshift
in a way that forces the engine to overrev. Also, if it is in first,
and you keep the pedal on the floor long enough, the tranny will shift
to second, even though you manually selected first. As soon as you
drop to a speed acceptable for first, it'll downshift, instead of
waiting for the normal downshift point.
> But if I wouldn't have caught it would I have ended up with a metal salad?
I can't tell you if it wouldn've ruined the engine, but I can say that
the rev limiter couldn't have done anything to help.
> John Page
Dan.
> BTW, I changed the tranny liquid to Red Line's MTL. Much nicer shifts. The
> synchros love it. Much better than the factory ATF.
ATF? Isn't it a manual tranny?
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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 15:42:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: alan auerbach F
Subject: Re: rev limiter
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Just curious. All right, nosey.
What's the annual insurance cost for a TT?
And how much extra to protect you on the race track?
Oh yes, how did you do, racing against what? Al.
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Development
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 16:07:15 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: rev limiter
> Do you know if the rev limiter on the Supra TT works on downshifts as well as
> upshifts? In other words, I feel the fuel shut off at 7,000rpm as I
> accelerate. But if I miss a downshift and hit too low a gear and the engine
> wants to go way beyond 7,000 will the rev limiter catch it? I'm told that in
> many cars the rev limiter only works on accelerating not on downshifts.
>
> Thanks.
> John Page
> BTW, I changed the tranny liquid to Red Line's MTL. Much nicer shifts. The
> synchros love it. Much better than the factory ATF.
Only a fully electronic gear-change/clutch assembly could prevent the engine
from over revving on a downshift, and it can only do so by preventing the down
shift in the first place. Once the gears are engaged, no rev limiter can
prevent the engine from over revving. In F1, with electronic gear boxes, the
computer will calculate what the rpms would be if a requested downshift were
to be completed. If the resultant RPM's place it ocer redline, the computer
does not allow the downshift, hence saving the engine. In your case, you
have the control, not the computer. I don't think you'd have blown the engine,
most people catch these things before it's too late. I mean, it doesn't take
much to realize your in 2nd, and not 4th, as you demonstrated, by catching.
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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 23:23:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Mufflers: The Lecture
Thanks for the very useful analysis of gas laws and flow! It was very
well thought out and well presented. Two thoughts came to mind while
reading this which I will share: 1) Upon viewing my 2.5 inch exhaust,
which has about 5 bends of various radius i notice that it is 2.5 inch
only in the portions which are not bent. The bends are significantly
smaller in diameter than 2.5 inches. 2) It is my understanding that from
a performance standpoint the most important function of an exhaust system
is to scavange exhaust gasses from the cylinders and pull fuel air
micture into the cylinders. This occurs at the time that both the intake
and exhaust valves are open. A propperly designed exhaust header is a
tuned system which utilizes the inerta of exhaust gasses traviling down
the primary pipes to acomplish this. The header is designed to work best
at a particular engine rpm (or frequency) at which it resonates in a
manner similar to an organ pipe. Several headers (including Martailis of
Finland) are equiped with a means of shortening or lengthening the pipe
in a manner similar to a trombone.
I have read and been told by engine tuners that a tuned header will work
best with no exhaust system after the header. Since this is too loud and
would cause fumes under the car, an exhaust pipe is used. Since the
header is a tuned system, it doesn't want to "see" anything after it so in
that respect it is best to couple it to a pipe of larger diameter. The
best way to do this is by using a cone which gradually couples the header
to the larger pipe and prevents backcharging. Back charging occurs when
the pressure wave suddenly reaches a change in pipe diamenter and the
sudden change sends a pressure wave down the pipe on both directions.
According to gas laws it would seem ok to have a pipe which is smaller at
the outlet, but I think a header needs to have a section of larger
diameter pipe to discharge into similar to the design of a good expansion
chamber on a 2-stroke exhaust.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 08:38:23 -0600 (CST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: rev limiter
On Tue, 15 Aug 1995, Mark Sink - Imonics Development wrote:
> > Do you know if the rev limiter on the Supra TT works on downshifts as well as
> > upshifts? In other words, I feel the fuel shut off at 7,000rpm as I
> > accelerate. But if I miss a downshift and hit too low a gear and the engine
> > wants to go way beyond 7,000 will the rev limiter catch it? I'm told that in
> > many cars the rev limiter only works on accelerating not on downshifts.
>
> Only a fully electronic gear-change/clutch assembly could prevent the engine
> from over revving on a downshift, and it can only do so by preventing the down
> shift in the first place. Once the gears are engaged, no rev limiter can
> prevent the engine from over revving. In F1, with electronic gear boxes, the
> computer will calculate what the rpms would be if a requested downshift were
> to be completed. If the resultant RPM's place it ocer redline, the computer
> does not allow the downshift, hence saving the engine. In your case, you
> have the control, not the computer. I don't think you'd have blown the engine,
> most people catch these things before it's too late. I mean, it doesn't take
> much to realize your in 2nd, and not 4th, as you demonstrated, by catching.
Based on my experiences you would have caused a compression lock-up of the
rear wheels causing you to spin out :) I use this in rallying for *very*
tight corners if in a sticky situation which prevents reaching for the
handbrake. Simply down-change to a lower gear, release the clutch quickly
and start turning in to the corner. The car will begin to spin in and once
you have spun around the corner and are facing in the correct direction -
NAIL IT! 8) With a bit of practice it is quite an effective way of
getting around without loss of too much momentum. Not recommended on
bitumen though!
Paul.
------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Jay_Kopycinski-RYNA10@email.sps.mot.com
Date: 16 Aug 95 14:17:12 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
me/mine/mods
Name : Jay Kopycinski
Location : Chandler, Arizona
Model : 1985 SR5 Xtra Cab 4x4 Truck
Engine : 4.3 liter Chevy V6, 700R4 four speed auto, stock transfer case
Mods : Engine swap, 4.5 inch suspension lift, 4.88:1 gears,
ARB front, Downey LSD rear, 33" BFG MTs on 15 x 8.5 Enkeis
custom rear traction bar, torque rod, driveshafts, etc.
email : ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 13:38:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: michael newell
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Me/Mine/mods
NAME-Michael Newell
LOCATION-Bainbridge Island, WA
MODEL-1986 Toyota MR2, red, 64K miles, what else??
ENGINE-4AGE
MODS-Modified suspension car is my autocrossing vehicle..
EMAIL-I can be reached at the above address or at NRVSWRCK@aol.com
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: rev limiter
To: paulp@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Paul Pyyvaara)
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 09:45:54 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> Based on my experiences you would have caused a compression lock-up of the
> rear wheels causing you to spin out :) I use this in rallying for *very*
> tight corners if in a sticky situation which prevents reaching for the
> handbrake. Simply down-change to a lower gear, release the clutch quickly
> and start turning in to the corner. The car will begin to spin in and once
> you have spun around the corner and are facing in the correct direction -
> NAIL IT! 8) With a bit of practice it is quite an effective way of
> getting around without loss of too much momentum. Not recommended on
> bitumen though!
>
Paul,
When I have tried (sometimes not purposely), I find that the motor stalls when
you get compression lock (and this can also be achieved on the electronic
auto boxes) before I can floor it again. Yes, I agree, don't try this on
bitumen, it is embarassing when the car locks up on a circular offramp.
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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To: Paul Pyyvaara
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 10:19:21 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
> >>I own a 1975 Toyota Corolla 2dr Sedan (that's right, not much of a
> >>performance car).
KE-30/50 series ?
It's a KE30. When ya gonna put that pic up on the Web site Chris? :-)
Check out the early Celica struts and lower control arms (71-75) - I believe
they are a straight swap into the KE-30 series Corollas. I know a couple
of friends who are rallying them with Celica struts. The lower arms are
longer and should give you some extra neg.
The idea of putting in the Corona RT142 Struts was that it's a bolt-in
fit & doesn't change front-end geometry. If I need more camber, I can
always bend the struts or put in adjusters. I'm not sure if these
are going to be compatible with the Strut brace I want to put in
though. I think I need one as I continually wear the outside of the
left tyre -- possibly from cornering too fast in combination with
strut tower flexing. One guy I was speaking to told me that this is
a weak point on Corolla's & that for his KE10 circuit race car he
braced these, with plate steel I think (or else he braced the firewall
with plate steel & braced the strut towers to there).
> >From what model are those calipers?
>
> Corona RT142 (5dr liftback). I checked this out recently & they are
> in fact twin-piston per side.
These happen to bolt on to the early Celica struts I believe :)
I wouldn't be surprised. As well as those, it's possible to get
4-piston calipers & vented discs on these Celica struts. These are
for ultra-serious racing though, from what I've heard. Apparently,
a new (Idler, Pitman?) arm is needed though.
Anecdote : the place that did my front-end recently did a Celica
exactly the same way -- the guy had it done here in Melb whilst on
holiday from Sydney.
> >>As far as the rear-end goes, it seems the logical choice would be a
> >disc braked Sprinter rear (GTS corolla in th US).
Another option which I have used in my KE-25 is a Datsun 120Y late model
Borg Warner diff. They are a *lot* cheaper than a Sprinter diff and
Bluebird TRX discs are a fairly easy install. They have the added
advantage that you can fit a Datsun Stanza diff centre which are
reasonably easy to find as an LSD version.
If it's anything like the 'diff in the 120Y I have currently, I'll
give it a miss. This one is a '76 though, & I don't think it has
a Borg Warner :-( In fact, everything is falling apart on it.
Can't wait to get my car back!.
Seriously though, I'll look into it. I don't want to pump out the
rear guards, & an engineer may not allow me to bring the rear wheels
in via FWD Offset rims, so it may necessitate shortening the rear
'diff to bring the wheels under the guards, if I use the Sprinter
'diff.
I think there's an equivalent Borg Warner rear end available for
Corolla's? I was told these cost BIG money though, about the same
as the Sprinter rear end. probably wouldn't be as strong as the
Sprinter rear either.
> >I do belive in safe driving, although I enjoy reasonable "spirited street
> >driving" on occasion.
> >
> > I do like the feeling of taking a perfect line thru a corner at
> > speed. Just a frustrated racer at heart I guess! To me this is
> > more fun than absolute speed.
>
> The most enjoyable driving for me are the twisty countryroads,
> at speeds between 120 and 180km/h, taking every curve right to the
> limit while balancing the car with both steering and throttle, and
> then slamming the throttle wide open when coming out of the corner,
> and the weight shift plants the rear tyres firmly to the asphalt...
Ditto on dirt ;)
What are the legalities of of Turbo-charged engines in your state ? I
know that in Queensland it is illegal to fit a supercharger and/or turbo
to a car which was never produced with one. (Not that this has stopped us ;)
No problems here from what I can see. There are guidelines that
are laid down, but it's not necessary to follow these from what I
can see. The way I understand it, you can have a car Engineered as
a "one-off" & hence anything that the consulting Engineer considers
safe is ok. EG. since my car came out with 4.5 " rims, legally I
can't run any wider than 5.5 ". But apparently I can run wider if I
go the "one-off" route.
Interesting point here : There's no longer such a thing as "the pits"
here in Victoria. For those that don't know, this is was the name
for the place where the authorities checked out cars for legality.
Now, the onus is on the Engineer to certify cars as being legally
registerable. If they issue a Certificate, the authorities consider
the car legal & registerable. That's how I understand it anyway.
You guys in QLD probably have it the worst of any state in OZ.
> I think 1G-GTE is an excellent engine if you're NOT going to start heavily
> modifying the engine. If you are, it would be a choice between
> 7M-GTE or 3S-GTE.
One problem is availability of parts in Australia for the 1G-GTE as they
were never released here. Shame.
Yeah, parts may be a problem. Would be ok for a non-daily driver,
but I plan to use my car every day (what's the point of having it
otherwise?).
> > Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> > I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> > slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
>
> Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
> but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
> now I need to learn that once again...
> One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
> David Coulthard ;)
Easy solution - *join* a local car club and compete in organised
sprints/lap dashes/motorkhanas etc - nothing like controlled
experimenting without having to worry if the local police are around the
corner 8)
I've done my experimenting, and not on a track either :-)
Let's just say that I have better than average car control, but a
certain set of circumstances came together to cause me grief. The
stretch of road in question is deceptive -- a few weeks back I saw
2 accidents there in the same week. This is a 3-laned straight road
too.
> Don't have first hand experience with either. But for a car for streets
> too, I wouldn't even think about replacing EFI with carbs...
Awww - I like the sound of Webers ;) This could be dependant on if you
are going racing and what class you will be in. With rallying an older
Corolla you have to run twin carbs as the engines were never installed
with EFI. You can also only run a 2T-G.
Heard of the 2T-GE? Still, don't know if CAMS (or whoever reigns
supreme over rallying) would approve it.
I've had a lot of trouble with the Weber 32/36 DGV on my 5K. I even
had a special water heater cast up for the manifold, which helped
but not 100%. Basically, if the carb is jetted for max performance
in Summer (about 80 KW at the rear wheels), it ices up & runs like
crap as you get closer to 0 deg C. When Winter first hit after I had
the Weber first done, it wouldn't idle at all without the choke.
So, this is why I want to go EFI.
> >>It would appear that the 4AG would be the most appropriate here as
> >>it's the lightest (less weight over the front end).
> >>However, I'm not sure I'll be happy with the power.
Have you considered the 4AGZE ? (supercharged version ?) A friend has one
in a 71 model KE-25 group G rally car. With a Hilux Detroit Locker it
absolutely hammers! Reasonably cheap too (I think total install incl EFI
harness etc was around $2000 (done by himself).
Well, I don't have the luxury(?) of being able to install myself.
This sounds good though -- what did he need to do to convert from
FWD config to RWD?
> >>Has anyone heard much about the 20-Valve 4AGE with variable Valve Timing?
> >>I can have one of these imported but it will cost about $4000
> >>(a bit too much).
> >
> >I belive thats the Apex Twin Cam motor, 5 vavles per cylinder that
> >comes with the Levins.
> >
> > Does that mean they come into the US? If so, what are they like?
>
> I'd like to hear more about them too. Please?
>
> Yes, once again, any info on the 20-Valve version is welcome.
I beleive a contact has a magazine from Japan with a couple of articles
on these - will see what I can dig up.
That would be great. Even though I've been quoted $4000, I still
considering this. Then again, the same money would get me an SR20DET
with 'box & computer :-). Someone's dumped one of these in his Datsun
1600 (Datsun 510). Flies apparently.
> >>As far as the 3T-GTEU, I think it may place too much weight over
> >>the front-end,hence reducing handling.
This can be a problem *but* we also have a car in the club (KE-55) which
has said engine in it and whenever I have driver it the handling has been
excellent. As mentioned by Matti the weight distribution can be adjusted
to compensate for the larger motor by relocating things to the rear of
the car.
I'll hopefully be able to judge this for myself eventually. One place
that I'm looking at having the conversion done is trying to get in
touch with someone who has this config already in his car. I should
be able to drive it & see for myself.
> >>Also, how reliable are they (proper maintenance>& Idle-down being a given)?
> >
> >They are very realible, I belive. I've only worked with one turbo model, and
> >that basically was a custom modification. However, if you do proper
> >turbo "mechanics" you won't encounter any other problems.
The KE-55 which is used regularly in club events is very reliable. It
does not see an easy life :)
Is it street driven as well? Registered?
> Sorry, I meant we didn't see the T series engines in our Corolla's.
> We too had them in Celica's, but never saw the Carina.
I have see a TE-20 in Australia once. Fortunately the modifaction of
engine mounts to fit the T series engines into the early Corollas is
simple enough. They also have the bolt holes in the chassis rails for the
celica five-speed (about 60mm back - just use the original crossmember).
I would also change the tail-shaft to the AMI Corolla version which had
much larger Universal joints (same size as a six cylinder Holden!)
Yep, this would be a good idea. I've had problems in the past with
Uni joints. Plus, want a heavy-duty tailshaft. Have heard of at
least 1 that has self-destructed behind a 4AG during a race. I don't
fancy an extra appendage :-( .
What is an AMI Corolla?
> Also, since these aren't "Toyota" guys particularly, I may even
> consider (SHOCK! HORROR!) a Nissan SR20 -- low weight as it's all
> alloy. I actually drove a Pulsar with one of these for a week &
> liked it.
Bleagh - sacrilege! ;) Then again, we were toying with the idea of a
Turbo 13-B in a KE-17 for hill-climbs :)
Oh yeah, didn't mentioned it yet I don't think -- a 13B Turbo may be
on the cards for me too. But this will cost big bucks, & the place I
mentioned above, which is a Mazda Rotary Mods place primarily, actually
advised me not to go this route, as it would be overkill for what I
want. Good to see a place that doesn't have "Let's rip this guy off"
as its main thought.
> To summarize my recommendation for your engine:
> I think 3S-GE would be the best naturally aspirated engine in your case.
> If you decide you want more (turbocharged) power, I'd say 3S-GTE
> is your best choice if you have the $$$$'s. If not, go for the
> 3T-GTE. Those sixes are just too large and heavy for a Corolla,
> if handling is an issue...
Check out the 4AGZE as well from the importers. They are light and FAST.
Will do. Please let me know what mods would be req'd. I saw a write-
up once of dropping one of these into a FWD Corolla -- they basically
said to get a 1/2 cut so that all necessary bits are there. I don't
think using an after-market computer would be a good idea -- too many
unknowns with this engine, eg. what's this wire for????
> >The T-50 trans is easily fitted to all of the motors as you say.
> >Perhaps find a wrecked Levin and take parts from it ?
> >
> T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
> T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
> engines and 3T-GTE.
In Australia...
T50 - 71-78 model celicas and T-18s
w series - I think the later celicas (they are a steel-case as opposed to
allow case - if weight is a concern go for the alloy)
I'd like a strong 'box if possible -- may call Dellow Automotive in
NSW to get more info on what can be mated to what. They make kits
to convert Supra (W Series?) boxes to many different engines.
From what I've heard though, the T-50 handles the power well.A
Comments anyone?
We have a guy in Queensland who owns a Turbo-charged Escort with 2-speed
Valiant power-glide tranny - runs 10 flat down the quarter mile and it is
street registered! He has fun with the many V-8 cars we have in Aus :)
Yes, I've seen this car in magazines.
> BTW, sounds like a few people have recently joined the list & have
> done what I plan to do, in Aust. Any of you new guys care to comment
> on your cars? Or need some performance tips for them?
Hope this is of some help.
Yes, thanks for the input.
Cheers,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 15:39:24 +0900
From: Patrick McManus
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Hood scoop
Hello all,
There is a question here for valve heads, but first a little holiday story. We
have had a couple of days holiday here in Japan in respect of our ancestors
and with this being tradition I went to the temple of my Supras ancestors. Well
this is a bit of an error as my car is now 6 months old (as verified by the
govt. regulated car check), and within this temple are only new cars.
What is this temple, well its Toyotas 5 story AmLUX building where they have
all their models on display for crawling in and fiddling with ... its a car
show without guards. As this is Japan and no one takes souvenirs you can fiddle
with everything. Anyway, depending on your proclivity you can try and determine
what the difference really is between a 4Runner and a Hilux 3.0 Surf, or which
particular flavour of LiteAce does it for you. 4WD, or basic or so much leather
and carpet that D. Trump is happy. Also for those Lexus drivers there is the TT
4WD Aristo (GS300 in your world), a 4 door Supra? On the Lexus side there's is
the Sovereign still going on from the 60's or 70's that makes Russian tanks
ergonomically attractive. I also got a real world view of Peters email on
Corollas and variants. I knew there were a lot, but seeing 20 odd Corollas
(under various names) I was duly impressed by Peters knowledge.
To Supra stuff, they have the bottom of the range and top of the range versions
to clamber in , the Recaros are nice, I wish they had had them as an option
before. The one thing I had hoped to find an answer for is what's the hood
scoop for? What Hood scoop? In UK magazines I have seen a number of
advertisements for Toyotas and the Supra has a ugly tacked on hood scoop.. and
I haven't seen it at all here in Japan ... so maybe rather than going to the
temple I should have gone to the oracle ... toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
Does anybody know?
Paddy
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 07:54:33 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Forwarded from Jay_Kopycinski (It blounced!)
.....begin forwarded message.....
H*LP: Need info on 20R head/22R block mate?
Hi,
I'm new to the list and need some info.
I am interested in putting an '80 20R head on an '81 22R block and need some
info on how exactly to do this swap.
I would appreciate any info anybody can supply me, or if someone can point
me to
a FAQ on it.
.....end forwarded message.....
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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From: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 09:44:51 EST
Subject: Re: Mufflers. The Lecture.
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Craig,
Thanks for your knowledgable thoughts on the exhaust system. You
brought up several very good points which I didn't address or account for.
About the exhaust pipe bends, it sounds like a good solution to a
tough predicament--5 bends! Bends can crimp the pipe terribly. Yes, the
nearer to the manifold, the pipe needs to remain large. Which brings up a
glaring oversight in my workings (that's what I get for whipping up something
all in an afternoon). The calculations assume way too much about temperature,
TOTALLY ignor pipe bends, and give an answer which is the pipe diameter AT THE
VERY END OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM. So, gross failings.
It should be pointed out that the ideal gas theory isn't really worth
much in actual practice. It may be valid only for very simple and entirely
hypothetical situations. How well does it predict or account for anything in
real life? It's really just a mental exercise, to stimulate further ideas.
Craig, your practice of making up for bad bends by using larger pipe
reminds me of a question that I have had (maybe just for the sake of asking
it). Which mufflers, especially straight-through, compensate (as they should)
for their own restriction by using an internal diameter that is larger than the
pipe in and out?
Glad you brought up scavenging as I had hoped someone would.
Scavenging is the reason that four manifold pipes come into two and eventually
into one. It's the pair of four into two that gives the most scavenging. As
you pointed out:
>This occurs at the time that both the intake and exhaust valves are open.
That's right, during the intake stroke, pressure drops and flow is WAY
down, lacking exhaust velocity (after the top of the exhaust stroke). But at
the same time, there is another cylinder which is 180 deg. away in its cycle,
that is the power stroke, when exhaust velocity becomes much higher. That
other cylinder can be sucking the first one through IF the pipes are paired
together (4 goes into 2). That's why cylinders are paired up which come
opposite each other in the ignition cycle. So, for my ignition sequence:
1,3,4,2. 1 and 4 cylinders are joined, etc. The joining of all four together
helps additionally, so that another cylinder's exhaust stroke can be sucking as
well.
>It is my understanding that from a performance standpoint the most important
function of an exhaust system is to scavange exhaust gasses from the cylinders
and pull fuel air micture into the cylinders.
I would agree. Especially with as much overlap as our cams use. And
as you mentioned, the header has to be adjusted ("tuned") to maximize
scavenging. That's a whole other subject that I'm sure you know more about
than I. It's odd that a number of years ago, multi-cylinder (3 and 4--6, I
can't remember) motorcycles came out with exhaust systems with entirely
separate pipes for each cylinder. Not good scavenging. That later changed.
BTW, since no one has mentioned the SuperTrapp muffler, (which I use),
one of its chief benefits is that it's tunable, using a baffle plate system
normally right behind a glass pack (all one piece) and is always located at the
end of the exhaust. The end of the SuperTrapp is blocked off by a stack of
metal plates. It's a side vent system. Exhaust gas passes out the sides of
the stack by moving radially outward between the edges of the plates. Each
individual plate allows a circular crack, that is, an outlet opening of
certain size. So the total opening adds up with more plates. Right away, you
can find out works best, because it's easy to add (usually better performance)
or take off disks (quieter). If you tune them for max. performance, though,
it's not terribly quiet. However, you can put (an)other muffler(s) in series.
Again, Craig, thanks for your wise insights, which make a lot of sense.
Monte
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 13:56:23 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Insurance for TT
Alan Auerbach writes:
>>
Just curious. All right, nosey.
What's the annual insurance cost for a TT?
And how much extra to protect you on the race track?
Oh yes, how did you do, racing against what? Al.
>>
The subject of insurance is always touchy - actually more downright revolting
as every six months I pull down my pants, grab my ankles and say "please" as
the insurance company shoves it. When we're done I say, "thank you very
much." Sound familiar? The whole process gets my blood boiling, especially in
California where it is estimated that one-half of all claims are fraudulent
and a huge percentage doesn't even have insurance. In fact, ....oh, well, I
better stop now or I'll start up a nice crop of internal polyps.:-)
My current annual insurance cost for the 94 TT is $1,630. Not too bad? Well,
I'm 46 years old, and my wife's car (94 325is) is also on the policy at an
annual cost of $1,475 additional. She's 5 years younger. Now, neither of us
has any points on our records and we're getting a " two car discount." We
have fairly minimal coverge but the usual sort of bodily injury, property
damage, uninsured motorist, comprehensive, collision. Basically it's all the
stuff the finance company requires to protect their investment!
How much extra to protect me on the race track? They don't have a clue and
never will, God willing. You see, semantics comes into play here, I don't
"race," I "time trial." I usually use the word "race" because to say "time
trialing" requires a lot of explanation. In the clubs I time trial with in
Southern California, there are racing groups as well as time trialers. The
race groups need a full safety cage, arm restraints, nomex suit, etc. Few of
those people race their daily drivers. Most of the race cars are trailered.
And the racers get on the track and pass each other wherever they want,
sometimes swap paint, etc.
However, for those who are time trialing, you need only a helmet, 5 point
harness, and a fire extinguisher mounted within reach. Most time trialers use
their daily drivers. And on the track you can only pass on designated
straights. Also, you are only competing with the clock, trying to better your
times. There are probably 10-15 others on the track with you. The race groups
are competing with each other, trying to pass, etc.
John Page
P.S. Thanks to everyone's comments about the rev limiter. It's all quite
clear!
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 14:18:59 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: gear lube
Chris Schrimsher writes,
>>
> Thanks.
> John Page
> BTW, I changed the tranny liquid to Red Line's MTL. Much nicer shifts. The
> synchros love it. Much better than the factory ATF.
>
Thanks John for the info on the ATF. Was wondering if it would be worth
the change but did not know the quality of what the factory put in (feels
pretty smooth IMO). Was the job easy?
Chris
'93 Supra 5-speed, no spioler (I really need to change that!)
>>
The 93 5 speed doesn't use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) from the
factory, but the 6 speed does. The 93 5 speed (W58 trans) uses SAE 75W-90 or
80W-90. For the 6 speed (V160) Toyota also lists Toyota Gear Oil V160 besides
the generic ATF Dexron. Since you're already starting with a non ATF fluid,
perhaps the change wouldn't be so noticeable. I don't know, but I'm sure
someone else on one of these lists will have an experience to share. If yours
feels nice and smooth, there's probably no need to change it.
Was the job easy? Sure, the Toyota mechanic did it! My tranny takes two
quarts and it has to be pumped in from the side. Of course it drains from the
side. I imagine yours fills and drains in a similar manner. Your tranny
however takes 2.6 quarts.
John Page
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: GODKNOWS@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: gear lube
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 11:48:31 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> GODKNOWS@aol.com writes:
> The 93 5 speed doesn't use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) from the
> factory, but the 6 speed does. The 93 5 speed (W58 trans) uses SAE 75W-90 or
> 80W-90. For the 6 speed (V160) Toyota also lists Toyota Gear Oil V160 besides
> the generic ATF Dexron.
Are 1993 Supras the Mark IV, in other words, the most recent? Are you
saying that the NA version of the Mark IV Supra uses the same tranny
(W58) as my 1986 MA61 Supra?
> John Page
Dan.
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 15:03:39 -0400
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Hood Scoop
Paddy McManus writes:
>>
.....To Supra stuff, they have the bottom of the range and top of the range
versions
to clamber in , the Recaros are nice, I wish they had had them as an option
before. The one thing I had hoped to find an answer for is what*s the hood
scoop for? What Hood scoop? In UK magazines I have seen a number of
advertisements for Toyotas and the Supra has a ugly tacked on hood scoop..
and
I haven't seen it at all here in Japan ... so maybe rather than going to the
temple I should have gone to the oracle ... supras@vicor.com.
Does anybody know?
>>
I have the October/November 1994 issue of Sportscar Magazine (British) in
front of me. It has a review of the TT Supra. A couple of things are
interesting to those of us in the USA about the version that is imported into
England. For one thing there are only 250 annually that come in and they only
go to select Toyota dealerships. However, most interesting to me is the fact
that their version (and I don't how any of this will differ for Paddy in
Japan) 1) "has a front spoiler with a speed-sensing secondary stage which
drops down to improve down force on the nose once the car is exceeding 55
mph," 2) has headlight washers (like the 7GTE version) except that these
protrude rather boldly out from the front bumper and then angle up. Yes,
these actually extend out from the front of the bumper (not the top like with
the 7GTE)! They would be the first to get smashed in a front end accident.
Odd! 3) "That big air scoop on the bonnet looks as though it is there for
dramatic effect, but it works for a living; with a matched pair of
turbochargers attached to the side of a 24 valve straight six twin camshaft
engine, there is a serious need for a lot of air to be drawn through the
engine bay."
There you go!
John Page
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 15:12:53 EDT
From: chris@lexis-nexis.com (Chris Schrimsher)
To: danapple@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: gear lube
I have a question regarding this same issue with John. I should have
been more clear when asking my original question and stating I own a '93.
I should start indicating '93 Mk4 Supra for clarification. About the time
I start calling my car a '94 someone will catch me and I'll have to explain.
Sorry for the confusion. So, John, what's the scoop?
Chris
'93 Mk4 NA 5-sp Supra
> From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Thu Aug 17 15:06:16 1995
> To: GODKNOWS@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Subject: Re: gear lube
> Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 11:48:31 -0700
> From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
> Content-Length: 476
>
> > GODKNOWS@aol.com writes:
>
> > The 93 5 speed doesn't use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) from the
> > factory, but the 6 speed does. The 93 5 speed (W58 trans) uses SAE 75W-90 or
> > 80W-90. For the 6 speed (V160) Toyota also lists Toyota Gear Oil V160 besides
> > the generic ATF Dexron.
>
> Are 1993 Supras the Mark IV, in other words, the most recent? Are you
> saying that the NA version of the Mark IV Supra uses the same tranny
> (W58) as my 1986 MA61 Supra?
>
> > John Page
>
> Dan.
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 18:31:09 -0400
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: gear lube/hood scoops, etc.
Yipes! a lot of traffic about this. First let me apologize about not having a
real fluency with the >, >>, >>> stuff. I understand their purposes, but I
may not use them just right. Anyway, everyone will know what I mean.
Dan writes:
>>
> GODKNOWS@aol.com writes:
> The 93 5 speed doesn't use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) from the
> factory, but the 6 speed does. The 93 5 speed (W58 trans) uses SAE 75W-90
or
> 80W-90. For the 6 speed (V160) Toyota also lists Toyota Gear Oil V160
besides
> the generic ATF Dexron.
Are 1993 Supras the Mark IV, in other words, the most recent? Are you
saying that the NA version of the Mark IV Supra uses the same tranny
(W58) as my 1986 MA61 Supra?
> John Page
Dan.
>>
Dan, the normally aspirated version of the the Mark IV uses basically the
same 5 speed as the Mark III. How that relates to your Mark II, I don't know.
But, let me quote from a Toyota publication: "The W58 has the same basic
construction and operation as those of the W58 of the previous 7M-GE engine
model. However, the operability of its shift control system has been improved
by making the shift stroke shorter." In another paragraph in the same
publication, "The W58 manual transmission of the new model offers the same
basic construction and operation as those of the W58 of the previous model.
However, it has been made easier to operate by relocating the shift lever and
shortening the shift and select strokes. When operating the shift lever of
the previous W58 transmission, the force applied onto the lever is
transmitted to the shift and select lever via the shift lever housing. The
conventional shift lever housing configuration has been modified on the new
W58 transmission by adding 2 control shafts, one of which is attached to the
shift lever with bolts. Accordingly, the shift lever has been relocated
approximately 100 mm (3.94 in.) rearward from the previous location, making
it more upright, and giving the driver a more positive feel. In addition, the
shift lever ratio has been changed by shortening the shift stroke by
approximately 15 mm (0.59 in.) and shortening the select stroke by
approximately 6 mm (0.24 in.)."
Chris says:
>>
Just to be clear, my '93 is a Mk 4 Supra not a Mk3. You may have realized
that but I just want to make sure.
Thanks
Chris
I have a question regarding this same issue with John. I should have
been more clear when asking my original question and stating I own a '93.
I should start indicating '93 Mk4 Supra for clarification. About the time
I start calling my car a '94 someone will catch me and I'll have to explain.
Sorry for the confusion. So, John, what's the scoop?
Chris
'93 Mk4 NA 5-sp Supra
Sorry to beat that dead horse again, but are you describing a Mk4 Supra?
If so I would *love* to see a picture. I can hardly imagine what it looks
like.
Thanks
Chris
'93 Mk4 Supra
>>
Yes, I know you have a Mark IV ( in Toyota parlance a JZA80). I was writing
what I did about tranny fluids from a manual you might be very interested in.
It is called Toyota Supra New Car Features 19931/2. It is a manual for
salespeople, dealers, service people, etc. The part number is 00400-NC096.
Its description is N.C.F., 93 Supr (new car features for the 93, obviously.
Anyone with a new model Supra would love it. It is 260 pages. The cost to the
dealer is $22.50. My parts guy tacked on $5 for the shipping charges of
having it sent to him and a little profit. I originally had a photocopy I
made from my mechanic's original. And I made a copies for friends...but I
finally got my own new one. No, I won't make any more copies, but you can buy
your own! It is full of information about the twin turbocharging system, and
a ton of other interesting things all from the viewpoint of how it was in the
7M (Mark III) version and how it is different now. There are wonderful
illustrations also.
Chris what do you want a picture of? The English version Mark IV? All I could
do is photocopy it, but it wouldn't come out very well. At my office, they
have a scanner and someone might know how to scan it, but then we'd have to
put in on a disk (mac version) and upload it somehow and make it available
for viewing, but where???. I don't know how any of this works or how to do
it. If anyone knows how to do this or is especially interested, let me know.
John Page
(213) 225-3910
4530 Starling Way
Los Angeles CA 90065
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From: Gary Hong
To: aarndt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, lantera@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 15:32:17 PDT
From: Tony Lanterman
>
>After having mine up in the mountains all weekend (stock Celica
>suspensions do _not_ like washer-board gravel roads) I understand
>the cruising power complaint. With the thin air it was starting
>to feel slow.
>
>Woodsprite
I had my Celica at Mammoth, CA last year and the car was a dog! It accelerated
so slow, I wasn't sure if I could beat a Yugo.
This past weekend, I took a MB 300e through Mammoth and Tioga pass and it was
great!
Gary
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 95 09:12:40 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
Subject: Ignition Coil
Hi All,
I sent this out to the Corolla List, but maybe it's more appropriate for this
one :-
A msg I just rec'd from the list reminded me of a question I have. I'm
currently driving around a 1976 Datsun 120Y (B210 in the US I think) whilst
the on-going saga of my Corolla rebuild continues. I've been told the Ballast
Resistor is under spec & ideally needs to be changed. However, instead of
doing this, I'm wondering if it's ok to bypass the resistor via a jumper
& change the coil with a Coil designed for cars with no ballast resistor (I
have a spare Bosch GT40 lying around to put in place of the current GT40R)?
I'm assuming the Coil itself has some sort of internal resistor that takes
the place of the external unit?
Thanks in Advance for any info,
Cheers,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
To: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Peter Mejak)
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 02:22:06 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> Why would you want a fast car if you weren't going to USE the power?
> Because :-
> 1) I may be tempted to use it in the wrong situations
Uhh, what's a wrong situation?
> 2) I don't want to lose my licence
Accepted ;)
While helping a friend (video nut) with shooting a home video
we (me & a 3T-GTE would ruin the handling.
Test drive similarly modified Corollas with engines you're considering
if possible and make your own choice. I'm sure with 4A-GE you could be
"very quick", but you might be "ohmigod quick" with a more powerful
engine...
> Less weight over the front the better they say.
True.
> > The T-50 'box is the Corolla RWD 'box?
>
> T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
> T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
> engines and 3T-GTE.
>
> What 'boxes mate up to the 4AG apart from the T-50?
I guess any RWD Toyota box, but you need the right bellhousing to mate
it...
> If the circuits you will race are very slow (most of the time below
> 50mph or so) a naturally aspirated engine will have a significant
> advantage. Otherwise, go for a turbo...
>
> My guess, after speaking to the guys that did my brakes, is that the
> circuits rely a lot on handling & are tight. Will have to actually
> ask them though (I asked them about everything else!).
Then again, with 200hp & turbo you're likely to kick butt of a 125hp
naturally aspirated, all other factors being equal =)
> > Guess I'm after the perfect car huh :-> .
>
> Aren't we all ;) Anyone have a Supra TT or Celica GT-4 or MR2 Turbo
> to donate to a good home? =)
>
> MR2 would be my choice. Send to Peter Mejak 59 Su...... :-)
Celica GT-4 would be the "practical" choice for finnish climate...
But if I had enough money to afford a Supra TT (would be ~$200k if it was
available), I wouldn't be living in this freezer ;)
> I'd find it hard to drive a car without a turbo anymore, I got
> addicted to the (mid/high-range) power...
>
> Yep, I know. I'm currently driving a Datsun 120Y (B210 in the US?).
> Let's just say that it makes me appreciate what I had in the Corolla!
> It all depends what you get used to.
Well, you're still lucky compared to those driving 100A's ;)
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 16:24:47 -0700
To: Gary Hong ,
Subject: Re: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
On Aug 17, 3:32pm, Gary Hong wrote:
> Subject: Re: "I need more power scotty!" 83 Cel, 22RE
> From: Tony Lanterman
> >
> >After having mine up in the mountains all weekend (stock Celica
> >suspensions do _not_ like washer-board gravel roads) I understand
> >the cruising power complaint. With the thin air it was starting
> >to feel slow.
> >
> >Woodsprite
>
> I had my Celica at Mammoth, CA last year and the car was a dog! It
accelerated
> so slow, I wasn't sure if I could beat a Yugo.
Something has to be said about running on 3 cylinders *hahahahah*. But
then again you were also running in elevation.
> This past weekend, I took a MB 300e through Mammoth and Tioga pass and it was
> great!
I could see him now... SpeedRacer going through Yosemite *grin*.
Trying to avoid snowbanks *hahahahaha*. Just kidding guy. Personal joke,
if you folks knew what happened to Gary's car the previous time that he was
in Yosemite with his car.
Latas,
Botoboy
--
*******************************************************************************
Allan Chen A peak disturbs the horizon. The crest builds as it
Silicon Graphics Inc. slowly crumbles. A lone man races the wave hoping
Mountain View, CA for the moment where wave, board, and rider becomes
allanc@sgi.com one... Only a surfer knows the feeling.
*******************************************************************************
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To: Kalalahti Matti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 95 10:32:59 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
> Why would you want a fast car if you weren't going to USE the power?
> Because :-
> 1) I may be tempted to use it in the wrong situations
Uhh, what's a wrong situation?
In a nutshell, a situation where you should be careful 'coz it's
potentially dangerous, but because you've got extra power/handling/
braking, you decide to take extra risks that you wouldn't otherwise.
I can't think of any specific situations right now.
It's not always possible to make rational decisions with the
adrenalin pumping (but I'm getting much better at it as I get older :-)
I wouldn't have wanted a fast car when I was younger -- either
wouldn't be here now or else I wouldn't be driving :-)
> 2) I don't want to lose my licence
Accepted ;)
While helping a friend (video nut) with shooting a home video
we (me & At any rate, my current camber is theoretically spot on for even tyre
> wear in street driving. In practice however, i find that the outside
> of the left tyre wears more quickly.
What's the difference? You mean corners can actually be taken at under .8g?
Getting ~3deg negative camber is now near the top of my list now, more
about that later...
:-)
> True, but it does make things worse. Then again, tyres make all the
> difference. The car wasn't mine & although the tyres had enough
IMHO the #1 factor is the driver. Of course once the driver gets every
last bit of performance out of the car, then it's time for further
modifications ;)
> tread depth, I think they were old & hence quite hard. Plus, they
> weren't overly good tyres to start with.
Definately, all the money spent in suspension is wasted unless you
have good tyres. The BFG ZR's I'm currently running (about 400 miles
behind) have the best grip so far, worlds better than e.g. Dunlop D40.
I could spin the tyres up to 50mph aka ~4.5 seconds if I dropped the
clutch at 5000rpm and kept going, even with LSD. With BFG's, the tyres
spin only for 50ft or so, and then provide much better acceleration
than burning the rubber. Spinning Dunlops gave about .55g's without
LSD, BFG's with LSD once they catch give almost 1g!
I'm planning on Falken FK05G's, 195/50/15 to keep OD close to stock.
Anyone care to comment on these, or have better suggestions? The
above were tested against other tyres & came out on top (Local Car
magazine). This did take all variables into account -- grip, wear,
wet/dry weather etc., so they are a compromise when performance is
the highest criteria.
Yes it is, but you CAN break it by abusing it if you really try
without doing the appropriate modifications. This is especially
true if you're going to race it and spend much time above the factory
redline with internally stock engine.
Of course. I don't plan to abuse it. Depending on what sort of
ECU I get to run it, I may give it a "Soft" rev limit of the
factory redline, & perhaps raise this for the track. Ideally I
want a Laptop system with different downloadable programs
available. I've got an old laptop that can see dedicated use in
the car.
> >>As far as the 3T-GTEU, I think it may place too much weight over
> >>the front-end,hence reducing handling.
>
> Might be a problem as such a light car that you have, but that's the
> case for all your alternatives except 4A-GE. Actually ANY engine
> will be heavier than your 3K... So move the battery to the back,
> maybe see if you can lighten up the front bumper, get rid of possible
> oil pan armour...
>
> Yep, well I plan to put a boxed sub-woofer in the rear (removable)
> & I usually try to keep the fuel tank full to help weight distribution.
> Good thing about the tank is that it's over the back wheels.
>
> Weight past the wheels isn't too good for handling from what I can
> see -- true?
I think that is a matter of taste. Weight past rear wheels will increase
the polar inertia. Putting all the weight as low as possible on the
other hand is something to aim for. *I* would prefer my fuel tank to
be where it is, low between tthe differential and rear bumper instead
of high over the differential.
Good point, I didn't think of that. Plus, having the tank there
narrows down placement options for hi-fi gear (I'm a music head as
well :-).
Yes, great engine but I wouldn't mind something with extra cubic inches, if
it only didn't mean also extra weight :(
I know I can get up to 250-260hp or so with good reliability, but that's
about what one can squeeze out of 1.77 liters.
That why an all-alloy 2.0 L Turbo sounds great. Too bad Toyota
don't make one :-(
> <2000rpm - avoid
> 2000-3000rpm - ok for driving, but no ohmigod power
> but once you get to 3000-4000rpm the turbo will keep peak power
> up to 7000rpm redline... stay above 4000rpm and the lag won't bother
> you. Have a look at my WWW page for torque/power
> curves, or I can send the .gif to you uuencoded if you want.
>
> Yep, have checked this out -- much good info. Your Carina looks
> similar to what we call a T-18. I think the Carina is a bit bigger
> & hevaier though -- the 3T-GTE looks like it belongs in there.
I think T-18 is a Corolla Coupe aka TE72?
Yes, 3T-GTE was the engine for the top model of Carina/Celica/Corona
of the 82-85 era in Japan. 1210kg is slightly heavy, but still lighter
than US spec Celica or Celica Supra. The main point is that I've achieved
a good weight balance (at least front-back, might have to check the
corner weights too!).
I'm going to discuss this with the suspension guys. They do many
race cars & have hopefully have seen a few different config's in
Corolla's.
> BTW, cool music tastes.
Thanks! Shame that more people in Finland don't think so :(
It's probably worse over here in Aust! At least Jimmy Barnes has
moved to France -- what better way to protest the Pacific Nuclear
Testing :-)
(if anyone cares, I just put my fresh charts on the WWW pages)
If you have a KE30 as I think you have, you start with 870kg and 50.5% of
weight on front. 3T-GTE might be about 60kg heavier than your 3K-E
(just my educated guess) with all the works. That would throw your
front weight up to 53.7% without other mods. See what you can do
to bring that closer to 50%.
Yes, it's a KE30. I've got a 5K which has a taller block than the
original 3K. I noticed the extra weight when I put it in, but this
was reduced noticably when I changed to tubular headers.
I'll have to hound the wreckers for some weight specs.
Another reason to have a bigger engine than the 4AG -- I'm adding
weight by putting in an Alarm, Power Windows (& eventually the sub
box).
> I don't think the weight penalty warrants it. After speaking to the
> guys who did my brakes a week ago, I'm leaning more towards the 4AG
> again. They have seen a fair few on the track (in Corolla's & T-18's).
> "Very Quick" was their expression. They think that something like
> a 3T-GTE would ruin the handling.
Test drive similarly modified Corollas with engines you're considering
if possible and make your own choice. I'm sure with 4A-GE you could be
"very quick", but you might be "ohmigod quick" with a more powerful
engine...
Yep, it all comes down to how quick I want to go. Unfortunately, it's
going to be a bit hard to drive cars that already have the conversions
done, but I keep looking.
> Less weight over the front the better they say.
True.
> > The T-50 'box is the Corolla RWD 'box?
>
> T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
> T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
> engines and 3T-GTE.
>
> What 'boxes mate up to the 4AG apart from the T-50?
I guess any RWD Toyota box, but you need the right bellhousing to mate
it...
I'm going to contact a company over here that makes custom bellhousings
for conversions to see what's available.
Question : over here in Aust, when they say "Supra alloy 5sp", are
they talking about the W-series 'boxes, such as W58? I'm guessing
so. These are a popular conversion for all sorts of performance
cars -- V8's & Rotary's included.
> If the circuits you will race are very slow (most of the time below
> 50mph or so) a naturally aspirated engine will have a significant
> advantage. Otherwise, go for a turbo...
>
> My guess, after speaking to the guys that did my brakes, is that the
> circuits rely a lot on handling & are tight. Will have to actually
> ask them though (I asked them about everything else!).
Then again, with 200hp & turbo you're likely to kick butt of a 125hp
naturally aspirated, all other factors being equal =)
Celica GT-4 would be the "practical" choice for finnish climate...
But if I had enough money to afford a Supra TT (would be ~$200k if it was
available), I wouldn't be living in this freezer ;)
We don't get the Supra TT either (not that I could afford it either
:-( )
That's what really pisses me -- we have the roads, space & climate
to get the most out of high performance cars, but they mostly don't
see our shores. I guess they'd probably cost too much once landed
(try about AUS$50,000 or more for an ATMO MR2!).
> I'd find it hard to drive a car without a turbo anymore, I got
> addicted to the (mid/high-range) power...
>
> Yep, I know. I'm currently driving a Datsun 120Y (B210 in the US?).
> Let's just say that it makes me appreciate what I had in the Corolla!
> It all depends what you get used to.
Well, you're still lucky compared to those driving 100A's ;)
If so, I don't think I even want to know what a 100A is :-).
Luckily, I've just had it tuned & it runs a bit better than it did at
first. Pings heaps, but that's the price of "performance". I don't
plan to have it too long anyway :-)
Oh well, that's all for now. Work to do.
Later,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 10:23:49 +0900
From: Patrick McManus
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: gear lube/hood scoops, etc.
GODKNOWS@aol.com $B$5$s$O=q$-$^$7$?!'(J
>Sorry to beat that dead horse again, but are you describing a Mk4 Supra?
>
>If so I would *love* to see a picture. I can hardly imagine what it looks
>like.
>
>Thanks
>Chris
>
>'93 Mk4 Supra
I don't know which message this originally came from, and who asked it so it
looks like evryone and his cousin is going to get copied a trillion times.
But for a nice 94/95 pic on the net, I think you can't do better than follow:
http://wopr.gsm.uci.edu/indiv/rcolline/supra/people/SupraPace.html
I am not sure who deserves the credit for putting it there, but before getting
to this list I followed a long, long money burning crawl over the web and got
to it thru Matti Kalalahti's mind boggling home page.
Paddy
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 20:39:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Mufflers. The Lecture.
Hi, I want to make sure that you don't think that I under value the
physics and theory behind design of things such as exhaust systems. While
in real life there are many variables which come into play I agree that
design should have a sound theoretical basis. However it is easy to make
the mistake of oversimplifying and thus overlooking some variables which
come into play. I have a good background in science and math, but I am not
an engineer. I did an undergrad in biology, and this month am finishing an
MS in geography. I have however taken physics, chemistry, calculus,
statistics, etc. My knowledge of practical things is from an intense
desire to learn, much reading and asking lots (often told too many)
questions of people who I consider experts.
In regards to your question about straight through mufflers, a really good
one is made by Borla, but is VERY expensive. I haven't found any with a
core diameter as large as the inlet and outlet, and a restrictive core
seems to be a potential source of turbulence. What I use on the ICE race
cars is as follows. I purchase a Thrush "Cherry Bomb" for about $12.
This is a 2.5 inch straight through. Then I take a 2.5 inch Milwaukee
hole saw in a sturdy hand drill and bore into the core from each end. The
core then falls out. I then recover the packing material which is
fiberglass. Next, I cut through the body with a 14 inch chop saw about 4
inches from one of the ends. I make two 3 inch long pieces of 2.5 inch
exhaust tube and braize them inside the ends of the muffler so that they
extend into the core area. Finally I carefully form a core using 1/4
hardware cloth rolled into a tube and stitched shut with safety wire. I
reassemble the muffler with the original packing a strip of sheet metal
rolled around the muffler halves, braized to the long portion and screwed
to the short portion. The result is much improved, very trick and
rebuildable. The job takes about two hours.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: MBEDFORD@ucs.indiana.edu
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 23:15:44 EST
Subject: Re: Mufflers. The Lecture.
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Craig,
I have enjoyed your communications and certainly do appreciate your one
foot in the theoretical and the other in the practical (so to speak). I'm sort
of practical but wish I were even more so. I'll tell you I am no engineer at
all, but I do (as I see that you do) try to apply what I learned in physics,
math, chemistry, etc. I got a BS in chemistry and pursued a PhD in Polymer
Science (thus some additional physical chemistry) for a couple of years. It
went well academically, but my interests took me back to my previous
profession--classical musician, which I am now.
You know a heck of a lot about mufflers and exhausts systems. As for
me, I know virtually nothing (maybe can apply a little theory of gases). But I was in a brave mood
(took Chris's challenge) and, as a mental exercise, tried to apply what I knew
from p-chem, etc. to rationalize a feature of one exhaust system that seemed to
work in one situation. It's not a subject that I had ever really thought too
much about--certainly not about theory. But I'm glad I jumped in, and I
surprised myself that I got anywhere at all--who nows, maybe I could have
passed those PhD exams if I had stuck it out.
I like your muffler design and hope to have/take the time to try
building it some time. I had a glass pack, not a Cherry Bomb, but maybe
similar, followed by a SuperTrapp (no fiberglass, just the baffle plates).
This was on my 3T-C/2T-C with TRD headers and 2.25" exhaust all the way.
Actually, it worked "okay" but not great in performance. The SuperTrapp with
glass-pack in it worked clearly better, but it can get a bit on the loud side
for a daily driver. Of course, it doesn't help not to have a headliner (it
booms like a drum inside). I use ALL the baffle plates to get better
performance. Once tried using half of them, and it TOTALLY choked off the
engine. It occurred to me that trying your home-brew muffler right ahead of my
SuperTrapp would be a neat thing (when I find the time). And it wouldn't cost
me much at all to try (dirt cheap, in fact!).
You know, I've been thinking of Starlets a lot. Maybe I'll get lucky
with a chance to see one of yours sometime when I take one of my Wisconsin
trips (parents live in Racine).
Keep up the e-messages. Enjoying them.
Good luck with finishing up your MS--a commendable milestone.
Monte
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 07:14:14 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: me/mine/mods--Chris Hilliard
>Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 10:41:01 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Chris Hilliard
>To: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com
>Subject: me/mine/mods
>
> Name: Chris Hilliard
> Local: Jackson,Tennessee US
> Model: 1977 Toyota Liftback Deluxe 1600
> Engine: 2T-C 1588cc (TE-51)
> Tranny: T-40
> Mods: mid 80's supra (I think) rims and 60 Series tires
> E-mail cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org
>
> Thinking about putting on a set of Webbers/a T-50 5 speed
> and a header system. Would love to talk to fellow
> 2T-C 'ers.
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 07:14:27 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Valve Springs
Does anyone out there have any valve spring data on Toyota engines? I
am convinced that you can add new life to an old engine simply by
installing new valve springs. I know that when I put a new set of
valve springs in the engine of my race car, that I went from having a
decent car to the absolute fastest one in the field. Keep in mind that
I was racing high mileage engines, by and large. If your valves aren't
closing completely, properly, you are losing horsepower, big time.
Here's the problem. Everybody who sells valve springs for Toyota engines,
such as TRD and Paeco, seems to think these things are made out of gold.
For example, a set of standard-lift valve springs for a 2xR engine retails
for $130.56. Kinda pricey if you ask me. Paeco has them for just under
$100, but if you're building a 16 valve (or more) engine, now you're
talking some huge bucks.
I think that if I had the data on these springs I could find a spring
manufacturer who would have ones that would fit for far less. On a stock
20R, the OD is about 1.3125", the installed height is about 1.625", and
the minimum inner diameter is about .3125". Does anyone have any
information on any other engines, or could someone do some measuring for
me? I'd be most appreciative! Other data that would be helpful would
be coil bind height and (stock) seat pressure.
Oops! Hold the phone. I just thought to check the factory repair
manual! Here is the data on the 18RG:
===============================================
Inner Outer
Free Length 44.1 mm 46.5 mm
Installed Length 36.8 mm 40.8 mm
Installed Tension
Std 16.8 lb 58.0 lb
Limit 15.0 lb 52.7 lb
Squareness (?) 1.6 mm 1.6 mm
(I think limit means the point at which you need to toss them.)
Now the info on the 22R:
===============================
Free Length 45.8 mm
Installed Length 40.5 mm
Installed Tension
Std 55.1 lb
Limit 49.6 lb
Squareness (?) 1.6 mm
(2xR engines only come stock with single springs, btw.)
OK, now I've found that, anyone want to check their 3T, 4AG, etc manuals
and post the info?
Chris
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 12:48:29 -0400
From: Chris Myer
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Mail Storm!
I don't know what caused it, buy cyberauto had a mail storm starting last night sometime.
I had 235 mail messages in my box, most of them bounces.
Sorry for the inconvenience this caused anyone!
Chris
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To: peter mejak
Cc: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 18 Aug 95 16:59:34
Subject: Coils and Resistors
This is how I understand this whole resistor thing, somebody please correct me
if I'm wrong:
The main reason for the ballast resistor is to limit the voltage across the
contact points, thus minimizing (if not elimitating) arcing across the point.
These arcs can shorten the life of contact points. The ballast resistor is
by-passed when cranking the starter -- since the voltage drops; bypassing the
resistor will get a hotter spark to help in starting then engine. The ballast
resistor is brought back in line when you release the key from the START
position.
Now if you install an electronic ignition module, you can by-pass the ballast
resistor since the IGN module limits the current going to the contact point
(some even doing away with the contact point altogether).
BTW, according to the Crane Ignition installation manual, all 'blue' Bosch
coils have internal resistors. If you install one of these and by-pass the
external resistor, how will the internal resistor be bypassed when starting the
engine? Other than the outlet/socket that goes to the distributor, does the
coil have three terminals ( +, -, resistor)?
Isn't the Bosch GT40 coil the one that is not oil filled? Red, flat and is no
bigger than a pack of cigarettes?
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
______________________________________________________________________________
To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet
cc: (bcc: John Limcangco)
From: peterm @ aus.hp.com (Peter Mejak) @ internet
Date: 08-18-95 10:12 PM
Subject: -No Subject-
______________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ignition Coil
Hi All,
I sent this out to the Corolla List, but maybe it's more appropriate for this
one :-
A msg I just rec'd from the list reminded me of a question I have. I'm
currently driving around a 1976 Datsun 120Y (B210 in the US I think) whilst
the on-going saga of my Corolla rebuild continues. I've been told the Ballast
Resistor is under spec & ideally needs to be changed. However, instead of
doing this, I'm wondering if it's ok to bypass the resistor via a jumper
& change the coil with a Coil designed for cars with no ballast resistor (I
have a spare Bosch GT40 lying around to put in place of the current GT40R)?
I'm assuming the Coil itself has some sort of internal resistor that takes
the place of the external unit?
Thanks in Advance for any info,
Cheers,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
To: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Peter Mejak)
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 02:31:06 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> Unfortunately, over here, not always so lucky. Case in point : my
> girlfriend's brother was doing 80km/h in a 60km/h zone. Was stopped
> by cops who had NOT measured his speed with anything, only visual
> estimation. They claimed he was doing 100km/h. It went to court &
> the judge believed the cops instead of him. Result : Suspension of
> licence for 1 month. (Suspension of Licence here if going > 30Km/h
> over the speed limit).
Good thing that speeding tickets don't affect one's insurance fees
here, but 3 tickets within 1 year or 4 in 2 years, and you'll
see your drivers licence next time in a few months :(
I think that going 40 or 45 over the limit will cause one to lose
ones licence right away (for a few months). Which means that
I wouldn't be easy to stop if I KNEW they had clocked me at +60 or so...
> He did bad-mouth the cops though, which obviously didn't help.
>
> Some cops over here are ok but some think they're a law unto
> themselves. Same everywhere I guess.
Thankfully most finnish cops bark but don't bite. They still think
they're the next from god, though.
> I know what you mean though -- you have to drive to the OTHER person's
> capability when necessary (which I do). It all part of "Offensive*"
> driving (*Offensive 1. adj, aggressive, insulting, nauseous,
> disgusting :-), 2. noun, attack, campaign or stroke; movement :-) :-)
:-)
> Definately, all the money spent in suspension is wasted unless you
> have good tyres. The BFG ZR's I'm currently running (about 400 miles
> behind) have the best grip so far, worlds better than e.g. Dunlop D40.
> I could spin the tyres up to 50mph aka ~4.5 seconds if I dropped the
> clutch at 5000rpm and kept going, even with LSD. With BFG's, the tyres
> spin only for 50ft or so, and then provide much better acceleration
> than burning the rubber. Spinning Dunlops gave about .55g's without
> LSD, BFG's with LSD once they catch give almost 1g!
>
> I'm planning on Falken FK05G's, 195/50/15 to keep OD close to stock.
>
> Anyone care to comment on these, or have better suggestions? The
> above were tested against other tyres & came out on top (Local Car
> magazine). This did take all variables into account -- grip, wear,
> wet/dry weather etc., so they are a compromise when performance is
> the highest criteria.
I've never seen Falkens. The BFG Comp T/A ZR's I have are pretty good
tyres. Definately better than anything by Dunlop (except MAYBE SP8000)
or Continental (as somebody put it elegantly - condom factory rejects :).
Other tyres I considered were Bridgestone Expedia S-01 (30% more expensive
- that ruled them out), Pirelli P-Zero (was turned off by hearing comments
about less than brilliant steering feel with them - supposedly another
very expensive choice), and Goodyear GS-D+ (this would have been my
#2 choice, same price as BFG's). Oh yeah, these were all 195/50R15
which is the size I now use - 195/55R15 would have been closer to stock
but it's not that widely available size.
> > Weight past the wheels isn't too good for handling from what I can
> > see -- true?
>
> I think that is a matter of taste. Weight past rear wheels will increase
> the polar inertia. Putting all the weight as low as possible on the
> other hand is something to aim for. *I* would prefer my fuel tank to
> be where it is, low between tthe differential and rear bumper instead
> of high over the differential.
>
> Good point, I didn't think of that. Plus, having the tank there
> narrows down placement options for hi-fi gear (I'm a music head as
> well :-).
My interest in auto hi-fi has been reduced by having my stereo stolen and
a loudish exhaust. Also, it bothers conversation so I only would listen
to it anyway when I'm driving alone.
> Yes, great engine but I wouldn't mind something with extra cubic inches, if
> it only didn't mean also extra weight :(
> I know I can get up to 250-260hp or so with good reliability, but that's
> about what one can squeeze out of 1.77 liters.
>
> That why an all-alloy 2.0 L Turbo sounds great. Too bad Toyota
> don't make one :-(
I'd like a mid-engined 4WD 5.6 liter V12 quad cam twin spark 60 valve
sequential turbocharged intercooled water injected NOS-equipped 6-speed
red coupe that weighs under 1000kg. Anyone got one for sale, cheap?
> > BTW, cool music tastes.
>
> Thanks! Shame that more people in Finland don't think so :(
>
> It's probably worse over here in Aust! At least Jimmy Barnes has
No way, mate!
> moved to France -- what better way to protest the Pacific Nuclear
> Testing :-)
Jimmy Barnes? I think I'm lucky not knowing who he is...
And if that Chirac (wannabe-Napoleon for the '90s) thinks that nuclear
testing is "safe" why not test closer Paris, eh?
> If you have a KE30 as I think you have, you start with 870kg and 50.5% of
> weight on front. 3T-GTE might be about 60kg heavier than your 3K-E
> (just my educated guess) with all the works. That would throw your
> front weight up to 53.7% without other mods. See what you can do
> to bring that closer to 50%.
>
> Yes, it's a KE30. I've got a 5K which has a taller block than the
> original 3K. I noticed the extra weight when I put it in, but this
> was reduced noticably when I changed to tubular headers.
>
> I'll have to hound the wreckers for some weight specs.
That'd be interesting info to know the weights more accurately.
Let us know what you find out.
> Another reason to have a bigger engine than the 4AG -- I'm adding
> weight by putting in an Alarm, Power Windows (& eventually the sub
> box).
Alarm = 0.2kg, power windows =~20kg, sub box =?10kg. <4% extra...
> Question : over here in Aust, when they say "Supra alloy 5sp", are
> they talking about the W-series 'boxes, such as W58? I'm guessing
> so. These are a popular conversion for all sorts of performance
> cars -- V8's & Rotary's included.
They are talking about W58 and only that. The W's seem to hold well
to hard driving, but even they don't have eternal synchros :(
> Celica GT-4 would be the "practical" choice for finnish climate...
> But if I had enough money to afford a Supra TT (would be ~$200k if it was
> available), I wouldn't be living in this freezer ;)
>
> We don't get the Supra TT either (not that I could afford it either
> :-( )
>
> That's what really pisses me -- we have the roads, space & climate
> to get the most out of high performance cars, but they mostly don't
> see our shores. I guess they'd probably cost too much once landed
> (try about AUS$50,000 or more for an ATMO MR2!).
That reminds me of the only good thing about finnish climate - denser
air, therefore more power! But I would be willing to give it up
to have >20C throughout the year...
Try our car prices too (in US$'s):
Corolla 1.3 Xi) $24k
Carina E 2.0 GLi $38k
Camry V6 $70k
Celica GT-4 $89k
Did somebody faint back there?
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
To: paulp@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Paul Pyyvaara)
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 02:33:09 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> I wouldn't be surprised. As well as those, it's possible to get
> 4-piston calipers & vented discs on these Celica struts. These are
> for ultra-serious racing though, from what I've heard. Apparently,
> a new (Idler, Pitman?) arm is needed though.
4-piston calipers? Where? Where? Where?
> One problem is availability of parts in Australia for the 1G-GTE as they
> were never released here. Shame.
>
> Yeah, parts may be a problem. Would be ok for a non-daily driver,
> but I plan to use my car every day (what's the point of having it
> otherwise?).
Part availability can be a pain in the butt, but hey - these all are
pretty reliable Toyota engines, and therefore don't need any special
parts that often (but if you drive 50000km/year and it's your only
car...).
> > > Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> > > I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> > > slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
> >
> > Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
> > but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
> > now I need to learn that once again...
> > One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
> > David Coulthard ;)
>
> Easy solution - *join* a local car club and compete in organised
> sprints/lap dashes/motorkhanas etc - nothing like controlled
> experimenting without having to worry if the local police are around the
> corner 8)
Now that I read what I wrote I may not have made myself quite clear -
I had achieved very good level of control of my car before I installed
that LSD a month ago. Now I've been learning how it handles with the LSD.
> I've done my experimenting, and not on a track either :-)
I practice everywhere, both on public roads & tracks. I just explore
the limits first at places where no personal or material damage
is likely...
> Let's just say that I have better than average car control, but a
> certain set of circumstances came together to cause me grief. The
> stretch of road in question is deceptive -- a few weeks back I saw
> 2 accidents there in the same week. This is a 3-laned straight road
> too.
Hey, NOBODY is a perfect driver, everybody makes a mistake every now
and then. Just try to learn from your mistakes.
> Oh yeah, didn't mentioned it yet I don't think -- a 13B Turbo may be
> on the cards for me too. But this will cost big bucks, & the place I
> mentioned above, which is a Mazda Rotary Mods place primarily, actually
> advised me not to go this route, as it would be overkill for what I
> want. Good to see a place that doesn't have "Let's rip this guy off"
> as its main thought.
Two things to know about those rotary turbos:
it can't handle more than 15psi or so of boost, and if you get
even the least bit of detonation - bye bye seals. But I'm sure
it would still be fast enough ;)
> > To summarize my recommendation for your engine:
> > I think 3S-GE would be the best naturally aspirated engine in your case.
> > If you decide you want more (turbocharged) power, I'd say 3S-GTE
> > is your best choice if you have the $$$$'s. If not, go for the
> > 3T-GTE. Those sixes are just too large and heavy for a Corolla,
> > if handling is an issue...
>
> Check out the 4AGZE as well from the importers. They are light and FAST.
Relatively light. It's worth considering.
> > >The T-50 trans is easily fitted to all of the motors as you say.
> > >Perhaps find a wrecked Levin and take parts from it ?
> > >
> > T50 came with RWD Corolla GTS 4A-GE and most T-series engines EXCEPT 3T-GTE.
> > T50 is not as sturdy as the W-series trannys used with M, R & G series
> > engines and 3T-GTE.
>
> In Australia...
> T50 - 71-78 model celicas and T-18s
>
> w series - I think the later celicas (they are a steel-case as opposed to
> allow case - if weight is a concern go for the alloy)
>
> I'd like a strong 'box if possible -- may call Dellow Automotive in
> NSW to get more info on what can be mated to what. They make kits
> to convert Supra (W Series?) boxes to many different engines.
First generation (79-81) Supra had W50, 2nd (82-86) W58. 3rd (86.5-92)
W58 and for the turbo models R154. W50 is the steel case one, others
are alloy. I have a W series alloy case tranny that came stock with
3T-GTE, but it's not the W58 (different gear ratios).
> From what I've heard though, the T-50 handles the power well.A
> Comments anyone?
It will handle the stock 4A-GE power, but with 3T-GTE one will kill
a T-50 in a few thousand miles... I know someone who went through three
of them in a year before believing it. Surprisingly, I did NOT buy
his car ;)
> We have a guy in Queensland who owns a Turbo-charged Escort with 2-speed
> Valiant power-glide tranny - runs 10 flat down the quarter mile and it is
> street registered! He has fun with the many V-8 cars we have in Aus :)
>
> Yes, I've seen this car in magazines.
Well, we have a guy just next to Tampere with a RA40 Celica, 2 liter
turbo engine (not sure about the type) and he won hands down his
street car class (<4 liter turbocharged) last weekend in the Alastaro
drag race. Best run was 9.97@227km/h. Besides winning his class, he
was also faster than anybody else in the street car classes, including
the V8 guys ;) Oh yeah, this was with a manual gearbox!
In one start he got the nose up in the air and kept it up until the end
of 2nd gear... (I wish I had that kind of traction on the street =)
Those explosions in (and out of) the exhaust a couple of times while
shifting were awesome too, if not necessarily that good for the turbo...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: "Aaron Buhr"
Subject: Techtom Mighty Map?
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Supras ML),
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 19:40:46 -0400 (EDT)
Hey folks... finally got home after two weeks straight in Tallahassee
working on a project. I'll update everyone on my current status/plans
in another message tomorrow, but right now I have a quick question:
how can I get my car Techtom Mighty-Mapped without having to drive to
New England or California? Thanks.
Aaron B.
1990 Supra Turbo
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 22:06:42 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Subject: More Administrivia
Just a quick note. Whenever I get an email address from TM that is
bouncing messages back, I make a note of it. If it continues, I
unsubscrib* the recipient and (usually) send them a note indicating
that I have done so. Obviously, if their mail is truly bouncing,
they will not get it.
My point is that if you suddenly stop getting mail from TM, either
send a "who toyota-mods" to majordomo (no quotes) or just resubscribe.
Or, send me a note and I'll check on your subscription for you.
Thanks
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 14:56:48 -0400
From: "Dick Byrd"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Coils and Resistors
In message <9508180924.AA8260@CServe-91.inhouse.compuserve.com> "john.limcangco"
writes:
> This is how I understand this whole resistor thing, somebody please correct
>me if I'm wrong: The main reason for the ballast resistor is to limit the
>voltage across the contact points, thus minimizing (if not elimitating) arcing
>across the point.
>These arcs can shorten the life of contact points. The ballast resistor is
>by-passed when cranking the starter -- since the voltage drops; bypassing the
>resistor will get a hotter spark to help in starting then engine. The ballast
>resistor is brought back in line when you release the key from the START
>position.
>
Dear John:
What you said about ballast resistors is true, but perhaps misleading.
The resistor does limit the voltage accross the points, but then who has points
anymore! Almost all cars for the last 12-15 years have solid-state ignition.
The real reason for the ballast resistor is that when the key goes to the start
position, the battery gets hit with the high current load of the starting motor
and the vattery voltage drops by 3 - 5 volts. This would seriously reduce the
coil secondary voltage, just when the engine needs it most - when starting. So
the ballast resistor is shunted and the full battery voltage is put to the coil,
compensating for the battery terminal voltage drop.
Dick
Stuff from Dick Byrd
byrd@mnsinc.com
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Suspension Saga - Chapter 2
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 1995 00:24:19 +0300 (EET DST)
The Suspension Saga - 2nd Chapter
Let us start with lazy man's approach to measuring spring rates.
Or more accurately, wheel rates (which is what one should really
care about anyway). The other person is used to load the supension
with his weight by standing/sitting/hanging on either the front
or rear of the car, depending on which end we want to measure.
One just has to be in the middle of the car (not on the left or right
side) so that both sides get loaded evenly, and anti-roll bars won't
come to mess the measurement. Then the other person just measures
how much the springs compress, and the rest should be easy...
(not that easy with progressive rate springs - you would need to
use as much load as you think your weight transfer is when
cornering at the limit) Results: front 130lbs/in, rear 230lbs/in.
Yes I DO know the front is still the softer end. The much larger
front anti-roll bar (22mm vs 12mm) does even out the equation
a bit, but still the rear is the stiffer one. I'd be interested
in trying springs in 300-400lbs/in neigborhood.
Last Sunday Tero came to my door with a real work of a genius -
a basic $2 degree plate, with a wire taped to the centre with his
watch hanging from the other end of the wire. Skidpad, here we come.
Ok, we don't have a dedicated skidpad here (well there is one that
would do, but it's in the police academy area and they might not
welcome us to use it), so as it is Sunday we go to the university
parking lot which is now deserted. Degree plate gets calibrated
to show 0 with the car stopped on seemingly level testing
ground, and then off we go... At about 30mph we kept driving
in circle around the parking lot. Enough to cause nausea when
I had to lean all the time forward to read the degree plate,
which meant I kept swaying somewhat in that crappy Alfa front
seat ;) Well, both Alfa & Carina got pretty similar readings.
Of course we had to subtract the body lean (4 degrees) from
the figures.
g's maintained (not peak values)
left right
Carina .96-.98 .90
Alfa .98 .81
Now, what the fuck is going on? Why, with 2 persons aboard, we both
got considerably worse results when running right-hand turns?
I know that in my case, I have slightly worse (front) camber on left
side than on the right side, but the Alfa had no such problem.
Then it was time to try adding caster from the ~3 degrees I had.
After an hour or so fighting with the adjustment nuts, there
was about 5 degrees of caster. Time for testing. As always, at
the first corner everything should feel improved, and comments
of approval are exchanged. Then it's time for hard data. And
usually bitter disappointment. This time was no exception, as
cornering forces were REDUCED! bye about .04 per side! Argh...
so I did not achieve the break-even point as this is not a
win-win situation with camber becoming more positive (how much
is hard to tell, depends on bushing give) as caster is increased.
It was clearly visible from the tyres too that this had not worked
out well - they rubbed WAAAAY back on the sidewalls :(
So I backed out caster to 2.5 degrees the next day. Back to the
regular schedule. So the only way of improvement is getting more
sheer negative camber. I'm at about 0 left, -0.5 right now, and
I want about -3 degrees (there's about -2 in the back right now).
Those of you with similar front suspensions that would have interchangable
but different length suspension arms,
[this includes at least MA/RA/TA/RX-40/60's = Celica (Supra), Carina, Corona,
Cressida, Crown and probably also RWD Corollas]
how about compiling a list of
all lengths available? Measure the distance from the centre of the
suspension arm-to-body bolt to the centre of the balljoint and send the
info to me, and I'll compile the list.
BTW, those shitty Jurid pads are capable at least on one or two hard
stops, as we got 1.0-1.15 g's of deceleration from 70-90km/h. They're
just hard to get a good braking without locking the wheels and
fade badly after a few high-speed brakings.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: aarndt@sirius.uvic.ca (Aaron Arndt)
Subject: re: Chris' advice on my 22RE
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 16:55:31 -0700 (PDT)
In your nice little list o' things i can do to my 22RE you mentioned
dropping a couple carbs on.. Just wanted to make sure you knew that i was
running EFI.. Would it be in my best interests to yank the efi and put
carbs on anyways?
Brett Fraser, 83 Celica GT Coupe, 128000km on a 22RE and a shiny new
red paintjob! (and a new K+N)
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From: "Aaron Buhr"
Subject: Re: Techtom Mighty Map?
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 1995 17:08:24 -0400 (EDT)
> The same thing applies to your car. The thing about TechTom is that it is real
> vehicle specific, but obviously this cannot be done all the time. You have
> that real unusual turbo now so something has to be done with that, and he can
> try to guess and compensate as much as possible, but it won't be perfect. The
> other possibility is that the guy will actually fly out and do your car there,
> but you have to pay for his plane ticket and hotel. Many people do this, but
> it can be expensive. Unless you know others around your area that want one and
> are willing to share the cost. I will ask to see what he has for programs on
> your car. Do ou have an intercooler yet? I know they have an '89 Turbo with
> HKS exhaust, powerflow, EVC, and a Spearco intercooler they just did here, so
> that may be pretty close to your car.
I'd actually consider paying his air fare and hotel fee, as well as
the actual job cost. I'm contemplating buying the HKS PFC F-CON for about
$1000 and I suspect the TechTom will give far better results, so I'm willing
to go as high as $1500 for the whole ball of wax. What do they charge
for the actual job cost, and where would the flight have to originate?
BTW, my current mods are:
Turbonetics CT-26 Super-H trim turbo wheel upgrade
HKS EVC III (set at about .72 bar)
HKS 75mm exhaust
no cat or EGR
K&N air filter, fog light removed for better cold air intake
CarTech/Bell Engineering intercooler upgrade
I had the intercooler upgrade done two weeks ago ($600). I was
quite surprised when I received the intercooler because the ratio of
air pipe/ cooling fin on the intercooler face was just about inverted
compared to the stock intercooler. The stock intercooler is about 20%
pipe/80% fin, the CarTech one is about 60% pipe/40% fin. This leads
me to worry somewhat about the relative cooling efficiency of the
CarTech intercooler compared to stock. We'll see. At least since I
have such a huge compressor wheel the intake charge shouldn't require
as much cooling as it would with a smaller, higher-revving compressor
wheel.
In any case, the new intercooler does pose far less restriction
than the stock one. As soon as I got the car back I immediately
noticed how much more responsive the car was. There was a noticeable
improvement in throttle response, though it's always hard for me to
gauge top-end power gains (due to the progressive nature of turbo
power build-up, variations in atmospheric conditions, etc).
I also noticed that the CarTech unit incorporated a couple
mandrel-bent 90-degree elbows into the unit design. The first few
90-degree bends are of the same metal construction as the intercooler
and are welded to it, which relieved my worries about the stock
90-degree plastic elbows cracking under the stress. In other words
the CarTech unit seems to follow the same routing as the stock unit,
but the first few bends at the intercooler are metal and welded to the
unit, rather than the stock plastic elbows attached separately.
I'm going to go ahead and give the Nology spark plug wires a try,
hopefully get them installed this week or next weekend. I also want
to put the Thermotec insulation kit in (Chris, what's the price for my
car?). Then I _need_ to do some sort of fuel computer/fuel system
upgrade and can't come up with a good solution to that problem. I've
re-read the articles in the Turbo Club newsletter and can't help but
be impressed by the results the TechTom system achieved on a modified
240SX. With just the TechTom tuning done, the 240SX went from 16.23 s
/ 89.25 mph in the quarter-mile to 15.60 s / 94.50 mph. A 5+ mph gain
is pretty amazing for just a ROM-tune.
Dave, please get in touch with your TechTom source and get back
to me. Thanks!
Aaron B.
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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 1995 07:08:32 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Exhaust Wrap/Coatings
All of this hi-tech talk on exhausts along with Aaron requesting info
on ThermoTec's turbo wrap has put me in a writing mood. I think that
when folks think about exhaust wraps, they think it is solely to reduce
underhood temperatures. Indeed, you can see a huge benefit to keeping
the engine compartment cooler. Most everything I've read indicates
about a 1% increase in HP for every 10 degress of cooler intake air.
If you draw your air from under the hood, this makes underhood temps
critical. If you draw from duct-work leading outside the compartment,
it's still important, since the ductwork and intake will be heated,
leading to hotter intake air temperatures.
On the other hand, I hope everyone's followed the more critical part
of exhaust temperature control, ie, keeping the heat in the pipe. As
was skillfully pointed out by our resident classical musician, (they
know a lot about hot air!) your exhaust gasses cool as they pass
through the exhaust pipe. As they cool, they contract. As they contract,
they begin to tumble, causing turbulence and power-robbing backpressure.
What can you do about this? It was suggested that you might build the
perfect exhaust out of a very long cone-shaped pipe. Probably impractical.
On the other hand, if the exhaust weren't allowed to cool, it wouldn't
contract, tumble, and create backpressure.
Look at this another way. Heat is energy (ok, maybe not physically
correct, but you see where I'm going.) When you get heat tranfer through
your exhaust pipe, you are loosing energy, energy which would otherwise
help scavenge exhaust out of the upstream portion of the exhaust. By
insulating your exhaust, you'll keep the heat (energy) in the pipe,
maximizing your scavenging effect.
This is what ThermoTec is all about. They make a bunch of products you
use to keep your heat in the exhaust until it exits the pipe. Aaron
mentioned one of the more high-tech products they offer, the Turbo Wrap.
This is an all-in-one kit that insulates your exhaust. They have two
versions, the 15001 kit for small 4 cylinder turbochargers, and the
15002 for everything else (this is what you'll need, Aaron.) Other
products include insulating wrap in several widths/lengths, aluminized
heat barrier, and wraps/blankets for your shifter boot, starters, and
exhaust manifolds. If you'd like a brochure, give ThermoTec a call at
(800) 274-8437. (Buy it from whom you will, but if you buy it from
anyone but CAP, you've paid too much!)
Chris
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 07:23:03 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: re: Chris' advice on my 22RE
>In your nice little list o' things i can do to my 22RE you mentioned
>dropping a couple carbs on.. Just wanted to make sure you knew that i was
>running EFI.. Would it be in my best interests to yank the efi and put
>carbs on anyways?
Well, in this case I kinda think so. I know what Koji is going to say
about old technology and such, and I agree that fuel injection is the
best way to put gas in the motor, but this costs mucho money to get
big HP out of, not to mention quite a bit of smarts. The 20R head flows
so much better than the old 22R head, so you're going to get more HP
just by doing that. Additionally, the better compression ratio will be
a plus.
On the "car of a lifetime" that I'm building from that 18RG I have, I'm
planning on going with fuel injection. This commits me to some sort of
a programmable injector controller, which leads me to the $2500 Motec.
Note that this doesn't count the injectors, throttle bodies, etc. You
can get a nice Dual Mikuni setup starting at just over $600, which
includes the carbs, intake, and linkage. Much cheaper.
Chris
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From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" <smtpcsar.csah.combtptan@nimajneb.temasek.net>
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
To: temasek!csar!ee.tut.fi!k124476@ucbvax.berkeley.edu (Kalalahti Matti)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 20:29:10 +0800 (SST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods)
> Try our car prices too (in US$'s):
> Corolla 1.3 Xi) $24k
> Carina E 2.0 GLi $38k
> Camry V6 $70k
> Celica GT-4 $89k
>
> Did somebody faint back there?
Not me for sure.
Try OUR car prices (excludes insurance and road tax): US$1==SIN$1.423
Corolla 1.3 XLi SIN$107,712 == US$75,693
Corona 2.0 GLi ABS SIN$168,251 == US$118,236
Camry 2.2GL Auto SIN$204,564 == US$143,755
'92 MR2 2.0 SIN$98,000 == US$68,868 (Used. Non-Turbo)
Did anyone faint [again] out there? ;-)
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From: "Benjamin T.P. Tan" <smtpcsar.csah.combtptan@nimajneb.temasek.net>
Subject: Suspension: Springs for T-20 == Springs for TA-40?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 20:32:36 +0800 (SST)
Can anyone confirm (/deny) that the springs (front) for a T-20 are the same
as that for the TA-40? I'm being offered T-20 springs at US$70 a pair.
bentan
TA-40/2T-B
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 17:44:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: Monte Bedford
Subject: Re: Starlet tires
Hi, as far as wheel offset, I don't have any real data. I have made some
spacers of thickneses from .25 to .75 inches. They are simple to
fabricate, and if anyone is interested, I'll describe the procedure I use
for this. I do this because of a very limited budget, used 6X13 wheels
are purchased and spaced to obtain the widest wheel-base within the
fenders. I also install long wheel studs. You could calculate the wheel
offset by measuring the total width of the rear axle (for example),
flange to flange and measure the width from the inside of one fender to
the other. Then knowing the mounted dimentions of the tire you intend to
use, the wheel offset can be calculated.
The Starlet does have plenty of headroom. I am 183 cm and can fit in a
stock seat with a helmet on. (Though I have a Corbeau GT-8 in mine)
This tall headroom also provides great visibility when driving on forest
roads.
If you drive a stock Starlet, you are going to think it is very slow, it
is! So you have to be a man of vision and imagine what it could doo with
more power and revised handling. They come with like 58 hp, but it can be
increased to around 100 fairly easily. 100 hp does not sound like much,
but the car is 1670 pounds. A Starlet with 100 hp has the power to weight
ratio of a GTS Corolla with 121.5 hp and an MR2 with 131 hp.
Also, the small motor has very little bottom-end power so it needs to be
reved high. You will want to change the gearing to acomplish this. Here
is some gearing data:
81-82 Stock Starlet X392 3.15
83-84 Stock Starlet U462 2.929 41/14
K-Series Corolla U312 3.909
79 KE-Corolla U292 4.10 Easy to find, good all around.
K-Corolla Wagon U282 4.30
You can use the gearing from a K-Corolla with no mods in an 83-84
Starlet, for an 81-82 Starlet, you also need the axle shafts from the
Corolla.
If you drive a Starlet, you will become a very good driver! The car has
limited acceleration so in order to go fast you will be forced to keep
your cornering speeds as high as possible.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: Michael Kronvold
To: "'toyota-mods@cyberauto.com'"
Subject: me/mine/mods
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 18:30:22 -0500
Name : Mike Kronvold
Location : Hoffman Estates, IL
Model : 1990 Supra
Engine : 7M-GE
Mods : none yet (still under warranty!)
email : kronvold@damocles.com
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:51:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: FW: Supra parts microfiche
To: "mr2-interest@validgh.com" ,
----------
From: owner-supras
To: supras
Subject: Supra parts microfiche
Date: Tuesday, August 22, 1995 4:44PM
For those who have access to a microfiche machine, there are the microfiche
available that the
Toyota Parts guys use. I just bought the set of used (but current)
microfiche for my 87' for $13
(including shipping) for Fusz Toyota. Apparently, every 6 months the
dealers
get a complete new
set of microfiche for all of the Toyotas and box up the old ones. The way I
figure it, if I go to mail
order something, it's a hell of lot easier to tell them the part number than
to try to describe it over
the phone. The new sets are special order $25+$3(shipping), and the used
are
$10+$3(shipping).
Tim J
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 00:07:11 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: RE>re- Chris' advice on my
I was asked "what is involved with putting the 20R head on
the 22R block?" and thought it a good question to share with the
entire group.
Answer:
Exactly the same things as putting the 22R head on the 22R block!
A few more details:
-Obviously, you'll want to have a new head gasket on hand.
-Remember that the 20R and 22R exhaust is interchangeable...
-Remember that the 20R and 22R intake is not!
-If that timing chain has over 120 K miles on it, change it.
-Torque the head bolts carefully, as specified in your factory manual!
-There's a small bolt that is hidden in the oil in the head near
the timing chain. You have to know it's there or else feel for
it. The head ain't going anywhere with that on. Don't forget
to remove it before taking the old head off/replace upon reinstall-
ation.
-The job is immeasurably easier if you can mark your timing chain
and replace it rather than trying to re-time the cam. Since you're
swapping the head, remember that this means marking the new sprocket
exactly as the old one was marked.
Uhhhh, that's everything that I can think of off the top of my head at
midnight after working since 7:00 this morning. (Normal day for me,
unfortunately!) Anybody have any other comments?
Chris
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From: GBELL@ubmail.ubalt.edu
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 08:59:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: How to hot rod an 88 Camry
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Does anyone out there ever heard of, or own a modified Camry? I'm looking
for ways to improve horsepower, handling etc...?
Mine is 88 Camry 113,000 miles, 4s-Fe 4cyl. , Auto tranny with synthetics,
K&N filter.
Thinking of rerouting air intake to under car instead of behind headlight.
Waiting for tires and exhaust to fall off so I can get stickier tires and
larger dia. exhaust. Where can I get a non-standard exhaust on the cheap?
How can you tell if the torque converter is going up and is there an
after-market one that will work better in my car? This morning I floored
it and got unusually high revs. I think its slipping. It only happened
once as I tested it again. I was a little cooler here in Baltimore so
perhaps the trans slipped because it was too cool. But I drove it for
about 15-20 minutes very conservatively before that.?.
Anyone who responds will get a card for their next birthday.
Thanks!
Gary B.
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 08:57:40 -0600 (CST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Info on early Corollas wanted
I am after any material on the KE-25/TE-25/TE-27 series Corollas. In
Australia we only saw the KE-25 although I have managed to score some bits
of an imported KE-25 Coupe SL which had a tacho dash and chrome trims on
the rear quarter glass.
Pointers to any footage (in particular the Ove Anderssen TTE Corollas from
the early 70's) would be *most* appreciated (pictures, videos, books,
posters etc)
Paul.
------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 09:30:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: Toyota-Mods mailing list
Subject: Re: Halp me choose a drive train
On Sat, 19 Aug 1995, Kalalahti Matti wrote:
> > I wouldn't be surprised. As well as those, it's possible to get
> > 4-piston calipers & vented discs on these Celica struts. These are
> > for ultra-serious racing though, from what I've heard. Apparently,
> > a new (Idler, Pitman?) arm is needed though.
>
> 4-piston calipers? Where? Where? Where?
These are after-market ? I have never seen any factory ones which are a
straight bolt-on job.
> > > > Yes, know that only too well. With reference to the turbo car
> > > > I mentioned : Turbo + LSD rear end + poor tyres + hitting a
> > > > slippery patch on the road = one very surprised driver (ME!).
> > >
> > > Been there, done that, learned to control those situations -
> > > but that was with the exception of not having the LSD back then,
> > > now I need to learn that once again...
> > > One can get into just as much trouble without a turbo, ask
> > > David Coulthard ;)
> >
> > Easy solution - *join* a local car club and compete in organised
> > sprints/lap dashes/motorkhanas etc - nothing like controlled
> > experimenting without having to worry if the local police are around the
> > corner 8)
>
> Now that I read what I wrote I may not have made myself quite clear -
> I had achieved very good level of control of my car before I installed
> that LSD a month ago. Now I've been learning how it handles with the LSD.
LSDs are fun :) Especially on the bitumen.
> > I've done my experimenting, and not on a track either :-)
>
> I practice everywhere, both on public roads & tracks. I just explore
> the limits first at places where no personal or material damage
> is likely...
Ok I admit - I still have a play on public roads ;) We used to see how
many laps we could do on opposite lock around some of the larger
round-abouts when it had rained - an LSD definately aids in this venture :)
> Hey, NOBODY is a perfect driver, everybody makes a mistake every now
> and then. Just try to learn from your mistakes.
As Ari Vatanen once said - if you haven't rolled or crashed a car, how do
you know your limits ;)
> > In Australia...
> > T50 - 71-78 model celicas and T-18s
> >
> > w series - I think the later celicas (they are a steel-case as opposed to
> > allow case - if weight is a concern go for the alloy)
> >
> > I'd like a strong 'box if possible -- may call Dellow Automotive in
> > NSW to get more info on what can be mated to what. They make kits
> > to convert Supra (W Series?) boxes to many different engines.
>
> First generation (79-81) Supra had W50, 2nd (82-86) W58. 3rd (86.5-92)
> W58 and for the turbo models R154. W50 is the steel case one, others
> are alloy. I have a W series alloy case tranny that came stock with
> 3T-GTE, but it's not the W58 (different gear ratios).
Were there also alloy and steel case T-50s ? I thought there were in which
case the steel case T-50 I thought would have handled the power quite well
- or were the steel case boxes in the 78-79 celicas a W series ? I know
that a lot of these have been used behind high-horsepower V-8s (which
generate a considerable amount more torque than most 4s...
> Those explosions in (and out of) the exhaust a couple of times while
> shifting were awesome too, if not necessarily that good for the turbo...
Hehe - I would have *loved* to have seen the expressions on some of the
V-8 driver's faces...
Paul.
------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 23 Aug 95 15:26:14
Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge and Sending Unit
And now for my next trick..... : ) I just picked-up a Japanese Version gauge
cluster to replace the US version cluster installed in my car. The new
(actually old, since I got the gauges at a local auto surplus shop) gauges has
an oil pressure gauge instead of the oil pressure idiot light, plus an ammeter,
more ESP computer stuff, a bunch of idiot lights with Japanese characters on
them, and a tachometer that will work with my 4-cyl engine (theres a big '4'
stamped on the back of the tach housing -- most tach's I've seen for my car are
for 6-cyl). I don't think I can get the ESP to work but I'm very excited about
getting the rest of the gauges hooked-up this weekend.
Anyway, can I use the oil pressure gauge (electrical) with the oil pressure
sending unit that was connected to the oil idiot light? Will it give an
accurate reading, or would I need a totally different sending unit?
I know the best way to find out is to try it out myself, but I'd like to hear
from someone who's done something similar before.
Thanks,
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
'79 Cressida 18-RG
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 09:06:02 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: How to hot rod an 88 Camry
On Wed, 23 Aug 1995 GBELL@UBmail.ubalt.edu wrote:
> Does anyone out there ever heard of, or own a modified Camry? I'm looking
> for ways to improve horsepower, handling etc...?
>
> Mine is 88 Camry 113,000 miles, 4s-Fe 4cyl. , Auto tranny with synthetics,
> K&N filter.
Hmmm....I too am thinking of building a hotty Camry family wagon in the
next six months (this does not mean I am thinking of a family in the next
six months ;)
The option I am looking at is the 24valve V-6 (not too sure of the engine
numbers) which came out in the top of the line Camry in Australia called
the Avante. My wife prefers a manual so I am hoping the W series tranny
will mate up to this motor (I have only ever seen an auto behind the V-6).
If I can fit 17" rims under the guards and lower it a couple of inches I
think it may scare at least a few un-suspecting young racers and would
definately look the part. Any info from any-one having replaced the 4 with
the V-6 would be most appreciated.
Cheers,
Paul.
------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
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From: Dirk Sieber
Subject: Engine sadness & questions... (fwd)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 95 20:43:19 PDT
Hmmm.. I've been told that I might have managed to send this to the
wrong address the first time, so pardon me if you see it twice... ;-)
Dirk
Hi folks!
I've been lurking (w/the occasional comment thrown in here and there
;) on this list for a while, and now I find myself with a question for
you all..
I'm the owner of an '86 Celica GT-S that now sports a broken
camshaft... :-( This of course means either some really serious
engine work (as I understand it), or buying a new/rebuilt/used engine,
which is the route that's been recommended to me. Now, that's what I
think I'm probably going to do, but I have a couple of questions...
1) Is there anything reasonably quick & cheap I can do to the
replacement motor to improve performance, as I'm going to have it out
of the car anyway? I figure now would be the time to change
things... ;-) I realise this is an awfully vague question, but I
really dont have much experience w/this kinda thing.
2) Someone mentioned to me that I might want to think about trying to
track down a motor out of an 88-91 all-track, (3S-GTE, if I remember
correctly) and putting that in instead. Does anyone know a) will it
fit? b) would it be a bitch to hook up to everything, or are most
things the same as the non-turbo version, and c) am I likely to
immediately fry everyting in my drivetrain the first time I step on
the gas? ;)
Any answers to the above, or any other suggestions/comments are
eagerly welcomed... I figure if I'm going to be spending some serious
$$$ on repairs, I might as well try to make it better than it was. :)
Thanks,
Dirk
--
Dirk Sieber... dsieber@unixg.ubc.ca | This is a test... this is only a test
Any similarities between what I say and | If this were a real emergency, we'd
what I mean is completely coincidental | all be dead by now. :-)
A3000/25 w/386BB,Emplant,PII & 14.4k | '84 Nighthawk 750 | Flames -> /dev/null
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 10:39:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Regarding the discussion of putting a 20R head on a 22R block, I there are
some differences over the years that must be considered.
All 1985 and later 22R engines have a shorter block than the pre-1985 22R
blocks. The pistons are also shorter, which makes them lighter (the folks
at LC Engineering prefer the post 1985 22R blocks for this reason). As a
result of the different deck height, the post-1985 head is taller (thicker)
than the pre-1985 22R and 20R heads. I believe that this was done so that
the distance from the cam centerline to the crankshaft would be the same, so
that the same length timing chain can be used. The pre-1985 22Rs and all
20Rs use a dual timing chain, while the post-1985 22Rs use a single timing
chain. LC Engineering does a conversion so that the dual timing chain can
be used in the post-1985 22Rs. They also adapt the 20R head to the
post-1985 22R block, although I'm not sure how they handle the resulting
change in cam timing.
So what does all this mean?? Find yourself a 22R block from 1981 to 1984,
and bolt the 20R head to it. This should not require any special machining.
The compression ratio will go up a bit since you now have a 2.4 liter
engine with a head that came from a 2.2L engine. I believe that there will
be sufficient clearance between the pistons and valves.
Can anyone confirm or deny that the flow characteristics of the 22R block
were ever improved since it was released in 1981?
Is any of this stuff on a FAQ or on one of the Toyota WWW pages? BZ
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 18:04:35 -0700
From: Tony Lanterman
To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
Cc: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>The pre-1985 22Rs and all
>20Rs use a dual timing chain,
Not quite right. The change (for Celicas at least) happened
in 1982. The reason for the change was that in going with
the narrower chain, reciprocating mass is reduced and (in
theory) power is increased. The drawback is that by going
with a single row chain reliability is reduced. You can
change a single row to a double row to increase the reliability
(you might have to change your valve cover too) if you
feel the need.
Woodsprite
**********************************************************************
* * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite *
* Commuting is * * Unsafe at any speed *
* my life * I don't drive * *
* * fast. * lantera@teleport.com *
* * I fly low. * lanteran@xanth.cs.orst.edu *
* Where's Julie? * * dod #1456 *
* * 72 Honda CB350 * *
**********************************************************************
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 21:55:16 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
>Can anyone confirm or deny that the flow characteristics of the 22R block
>were ever improved since it was released in 1981?
Supposedly there are no big benefits with going to the 20R over the post-
86 22R head. I don't know about one thing--I understand there is a
post-86 EFI head and a post-86 carb'd head. Maybe Beth can ask Jeff
to do a little writeup on this since he'd know all this stuff off the
top of his head.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 23:18:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: Dirk Sieber
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Engine sadness & questions...
On Wed, 23 Aug 1995, Dirk Sieber wrote:
>
[stuff deleted]
>
> 2) Someone mentioned to me that I might want to think about trying to
> track down a motor out of an 88-91 all-track, (3S-GTE, if I remember
...
> things the same as the non-turbo version, and c) am I likely to
> immediately fry everyting in my drivetrain the first time I step on
>
_Toyota_Performance_Handbook_ states the FWD chassis of the Celica cannot
handle all the turbo-power safely, so power is distributed to the rear
wheels, ie. AWD.
Good luck with whatever choice you choose.
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Engine sadness & questions...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 13:21:47 +0300 (EET DST)
> On Wed, 23 Aug 1995, Dirk Sieber wrote:
> >
> [stuff deleted]
> >
> > 2) Someone mentioned to me that I might want to think about trying to
> > track down a motor out of an 88-91 all-track, (3S-GTE, if I remember
> ...
> > things the same as the non-turbo version, and c) am I likely to
> > immediately fry everyting in my drivetrain the first time I step on
> >
> _Toyota_Performance_Handbook_ states the FWD chassis of the Celica cannot
> handle all the turbo-power safely, so power is distributed to the rear
> wheels, ie. AWD.
True. But you could get a 3S-GE which was available for FWD Celicas,
at least in Europe... Peak power is 153-175hp depending on model year.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 8:31:40 -0400
From: "BETH D. COPLEY"
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
>Supposedly there are no big benefits with going to the 20R over the
post-
>86 22R head. I don't know about one thing--I understand there is a
>post-86 EFI head and a post-86 carb'd head. Maybe Beth can ask Jeff
>to do a little writeup on this since he'd know all this stuff off the
>top of his head.
I'll ask Jeff over the weekend for his input and try to have something to
post on Monday. He should have some good ideas. Sorry I've been so
quiet lately, but I just got a promotion and have been VERY busy.
Since Chris has stopped posting his racing stories, I may as well share
our latest. Jeff sponsors a 77 Celica at our local 3/8 mile track (the
driver knows nothing except how to drive). First of all a little
history: when the track first started having the mini-stock division,
Toyotas were blowing everything off the track and winning almost every
race. They determined that this was caused by the dome top pistons that
come stock in most Toyotas and proceeded to change the rules to read that
no portion of the piston may extend above the cylinder. So everyone that
runs a Toyota now has to special order their pistons. Our car usually
runs around the 16.50's-16.60's for lap times. (Late Model cars usually
run in the mid to upper 14's.) Jeff just built a new motor for the car a
few weeks ago. Ordered the pistons, put the motor together, and have run
about 4 races since then. Last Friday night we started 12th (they draw
numbers for starting position) and finished 2nd. Finished behind a
mustang that we had an altercation with the week before (the track's
favorite driver and apparantly favorite make of car). The officials
decided to tear down the the first and second place finishers. The whole
time Jeff was pulling the head, he had an official standing at the back
of the car. If was as if they were just looking for something to call us
on. Of course they found the mustang to be legal ( it just happens to be
one of the most illegal cars there). They found our car to be illegal
because supposedly the pistons stuck out of the cylinder by twelve
thousandths. (You couldn't run your finger across the top of the block
and tell that the piston stuck up at all). Knocked us from second to
fourth in points with 4 races left in the season. They proceed to tear
down the next car in line (an 82 Celica) and found them to be illegal
because the pistons stuck out nine thousandths. Amazing! It will be
interesting to find out what happens tonight.
Beth
**************************************************************************
******************
Beth Copley Campus Box 2100; 105 Hanes Hall
Degree Audit Specialist Phone: (919) 962-0495
Office of the University Registrar Fax: (919) 962-3349
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill E-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu
**************************************************************************
******************
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Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 09:24:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
To: Tony Lanterman ,
Thanks for the correction. BZ
----------
From: Tony Lanterman
To: BZUBLIN; toyota-mods
Cc: BZUBLIN
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
Date: Thursday, August 24, 1995 6:04PM
>The pre-1985 22Rs and all
>20Rs use a dual timing chain,
Not quite right. The change (for Celicas at least) happened
in 1982. The reason for the change was that in going with
the narrower chain, reciprocating mass is reduced and (in
theory) power is increased. The drawback is that by going
with a single row chain reliability is reduced. You can
change a single row to a double row to increase the reliability
(you might have to change your valve cover too) if you
feel the need.
Woodsprite
**********************************************************************
* * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite *
* Commuting is * * Unsafe at any speed *
* my life * I don't drive * *
* * fast. * lantera@teleport.com *
* * I fly low. * lanteran@xanth.cs.orst.edu *
* Where's Julie? * * dod #1456 *
* * 72 Honda CB350 * *
**********************************************************************
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Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 09:13:18 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: FAQ ETC ETC
It seems a lot of of the currenbt traffic would/could have been answered in the Toyota-Mods FAQ that was started over errrrr a while ago =)
For those intrested in completeing it and babbling about it or to it...
Please let me know =)
I think traffic and feedback is good, but its an excuse to finish the dang thing =)
Also...there is a lot of "new people" or "members" to this list..
Basically it means for those who haven't been on long enough to ignore most of my posts and asking me "what the heck do you mean" =)
Actually nah... I sorta pow-wow'ed with Chris about this, when I went to visit him..
I'll like help organize someof this stuff =)
Proably even mirror the dang whole list =)
Stay Tuned =)
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
1987 Corolla FX-16 GTS
1980 Corolla SR-5
1994 Tarmac CS
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Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 20:06:41 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Beth's Racing Toyota Woe's
Welcome to reality, Beth. This is one of the reasons I am hesitant to
even move up to the mini-stock class. At the red-neck circle track, if
it ain't a Ford, it ain't legal. Here at our track, the specifically
write the rules to make it difficult to have anything buy a Pinto or
Mustang win. Here's a fact of life at the small-town circle track:
if they don't want you to win, you won't. Nothing can be done about it.
You'd think they'd be man (or woman) enough about it to just say "Hey,
we don't want any Toyotas to race at our track." But these worms slink
around and come up with stupid rules like that to make life hard on
everyone who dares show up in something other than a Ford.
Well, one day I'll own my own track and we'll tear down Pinto's and
Mustangs just for the fun of it.
Chris
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From: Dirk Sieber
Subject: Re: Engine sadness & questions...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 19:13:44 PDT
With unimpeachable wisdom, Kalalahti Matti eagerly exclaimed...
> > On Wed, 23 Aug 1995, Dirk Sieber wrote:
> > >
> > [stuff deleted]
> > >
> > > 2) Someone mentioned to me that I might want to think about trying to
> > > track down a motor out of an 88-91 all-track, (3S-GTE, if I remember
> > ...
> > > things the same as the non-turbo version, and c) am I likely to
> > > immediately fry everyting in my drivetrain the first time I step on
> > >
> > _Toyota_Performance_Handbook_ states the FWD chassis of the Celica cannot
> > handle all the turbo-power safely, so power is distributed to the rear
> > wheels, ie. AWD.
>
> True. But you could get a 3S-GE which was available for FWD Celicas,
> at least in Europe... Peak power is 153-175hp depending on model year.
Ummm... the engine in the car *is* a 3S-GE, and it did put out (when
it was still running ;-) ~135hp, according to all the manuals I've
ever seen. Guess this means I should have bought my car in Europe. ;)
Dirk
--
Dirk Sieber... dsieber@unixg.ubc.ca | This is a test... this is only a test
Any similarities between what I say and | If this were a real emergency, we'd
what I mean is completely coincidental | all be dead by now. :-)
A3000/25 w/386BB,Emplant,PII & 14.4k | '84 Nighthawk 750 | Flames -> /dev/null
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Date: Sat, 26 Aug 95 11:18:00 EST
From: Monte Bedford
Subject: Mikuni sidedraft rebuild
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Hi,
FYI, just maybe you have your first Mikuni sidedraft rebuild still ahead of
you, and maybe you would want to know something from the extensive time spent
on my first one. I, in turn, appreciate reading about others' hands-on
experiences. It's important to me, so thanks .
A FEW TIPS ON COMPLETE OVERHAUL FOR THE MIKUNI SIDEDRAFT (in case you haven't
done it before).
Get the Manual. Read it, learn it, use it. Amen.
Get the gasket kit (part numbers Z70-1040 for the 40's; Z70-1044 for the
44's). Under ideal conditions, the kit will have all you need, including
throttle shaft seals, most o-rings, all gaskets, one split pin--not solid pins,
"e" clips, or figure-8 o-rings (on underside of jet block).
Disassemble as much as possible. However, jet block is not normally removed,
protecting its o-rings. Let the soak take apart the tough gaskets (especially
pump assembly). Use the industrial-strength carb cleaner. WEAR INDUSTRIAL
STRENGTH "RUBBER" GLOVES AND USE GOGGLES--SPLASH THIS IN YOUR EYE AND YOU COULD
GO BLIND!!
If you want to remove the jet block, access it after the pump assembly has been
removed (underside), which will reveal a large philips-head screw (not in
Manual). If you must soak the jet block alone, remove the figure-8 o-rings
(not in Manual) first, as they are not in the gasket kit.
When removing jets, be careful that you use the exact-sized screw driver.
Always be ready to collect and store SMALL parts.
To replace the throttle shaft seals (one on each side of each throttle valve
["butterfly valve"]), you will have to remove the shaft. First remove the
throttle valves. Be careful not to damage. If you can't pull them out by
hand, tap through the other end of carb barrel with a wooden dowel rod.
Removal of the throttle shaft:
Find the pump connecting rod (item #61 in Manual), which attaches to a
flanged collar on the shaft (not listed in Manual's exploded view or parts
list). Slide the collar aside to expose a hidden pin (solid, not split--not in
Manual). Remove. Remove the "e" clip from shaft, a slight distance away (not
in Manual). The throttle shaft can now be driven out with a steel rod, long,
narrow screwdriver (or other).
Completely remove dirt buildup inside barrel and polish, especially around
throttle shaft. The crud can survive an extended chemical soak. The nicest
thing to use was my Dremel mini-mite (battery operated) with the wire brush
wheel. Great for removing crud from the whole carb. Or use other wire brush,
wet/dry sand paper, etc.
Inspect shaft and plates, replacing if worn, damaged, nicked, bent or twisted.
These parts are critical. Reassemble with new seals. Either delay replacing
the throttle valves until the last, to avoid damaging them, or re-remove them
after testing for closure, or at least protect them as you work on the rest of
the carburetor.
Testing for good closure:
When assembled, the throttle shaft should move freely, and the throttle plates
close completely. Lacking complete closure:
1) Remove both throttle plates. Insert first just one, so that the screw
holes look aligned. BEFORE putting in screws, does the throttle plate close
completely? It must. Try to realign by sighting the "175" stamp (on the side
draft 44's) parallel to the shaft. Fuss with it 'til it closes right. If you
can't get it right now, the screws probably will not help you. Lining up the
screw holes exactly on a "perfect" plate with a "perfect" shaft does not
guarantee proper alignment. I had trouble believing this when AEM first told
me, but it is true.
2) If you still can't get one or more throttle valves to close, consider the
possibility of a twisted shaft and/or bent plates. It can certainly happen.
Don't hesitate to replace shaft ($17.xx) and plate(s) ($4.xx each) [prices from
Mikuni or AEM], if suspect.
Remove, clean, blow out all the jets, metering rods, etc., replacing o-rings,
etc. Double check Manual. Now is a good time to record jet sizes, if needed.
It is not customary to remove the jet block.
Adjust floats accurately to 12.0 - 12.5 mm. See Manual. On mine, I had to
bend the metal, very carefully, by hand alone.
Good luck.
Question: At Mikuni bootcamp, do we have to take apart and reassemble a
side draft in the dark?
Answer: Absolutely. And spray carb cleaner from your mouth.
****
Sure, carburetor parts can make you crazy.
Monte
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Engine sadness & questions...
To: dsieber@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Dirk Sieber)
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 00:33:35 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> > True. But you could get a 3S-GE which was available for FWD Celicas,
> > at least in Europe... Peak power is 153-175hp depending on model year.
>
> Ummm... the engine in the car *is* a 3S-GE, and it did put out (when
Oops... I didn't notice you mention it and assumed (incorrectly)
that you would have either 2S-E or 3S-FE...
> it was still running ;-) ~135hp, according to all the manuals I've
> ever seen. Guess this means I should have bought my car in Europe. ;)
True ;) At least the later European versions of 3S-GE have 10:1
compression ratio, I think you have 9.2:1.
You have:
year power torque
85-89 135@6000 125@4800
What we got:
86-89 150@6400 133@4800
90-93 156@6600 137@4800
94-95 175@7000 137@4800
I'm not 100% sure if it was 94 or earlier that the 175hp version
first came to market. That would be your best choice, if you can
find one for a decent price.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 15:19:51 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Wheee !!! (Babble from Koji)
This really should be on WOB but I'm overjoyed finally getting all my email
from TM finally finished after 10 days of being absent in florida.
First off, If you EVER are in the area, go visit Chris =)
Its highly recommended up there right next to Disney World =)
I'm currently Redrafting the ToyotaMods FAQ
which I guess has been "underdevelopment" for about 3 years or so =)
If you have any ideas what should be on the FAQ please email me here
koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu or koji@ohana.com and babble some things to me.
If you want to be part of the FAQ process (please please beg beg) You can ask
or i'll set up a mailing list or something to babble about this.
It seems our "quaint" numbers have grown quite a bit... i got the current list of "members" and woah... =)
Oh, heh, I self appointed myself head honcho of this FAQ, but if anyone else has ANY ideas or such or wants to take it over...please let me know =)
Ya, for those of you whom don't know about me or why you can't understand this message...sorry... thats how i babble =)
I'll write more clearer nonsense following
Asta La Pasta
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
1987 Toyota Corolla Fx-16 GTS
1980 Toyota Trueno/Corolla SR-5
1994 Rollerblade Tarmac CS
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: How to hot rod an 88 Camry
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 01:54:33 +0300 (EET DST)
> On Wed, 23 Aug 1995 GBELL@UBmail.ubalt.edu wrote:
>
> > Does anyone out there ever heard of, or own a modified Camry? I'm looking
Uhh, no, never heard of one.
> > for ways to improve horsepower, handling etc...?
> >
> > Mine is 88 Camry 113,000 miles, 4s-Fe 4cyl. , Auto tranny with synthetics,
> > K&N filter.
>
> Hmmm....I too am thinking of building a hotty Camry family wagon in the
> next six months (this does not mean I am thinking of a family in the next
> six months ;)
>
> The option I am looking at is the 24valve V-6 (not too sure of the engine
> numbers) which came out in the top of the line Camry in Australia called
2VZ-FE (2.5)/3VZ-FE (3.0)?
> the Avante. My wife prefers a manual so I am hoping the W series tranny
> will mate up to this motor (I have only ever seen an auto behind the V-6).
Did I finally drink my brains out, or are you talking about
mating a RWD tranny to basically FWD Camry? I'm not saying you COULDN'T
convert a Camry to RWD, but that just doesn't sound like one of the
sanest things to do...
> If I can fit 17" rims under the guards and lower it a couple of inches I
> think it may scare at least a few un-suspecting young racers and would
> definately look the part. Any info from any-one having replaced the 4 with
> the V-6 would be most appreciated.
This is starting to sound like my ultimate plan for a sleeper...
Corona Mark II with Supra Turbo engine tweaked up to 500hp...
an early 70's Crown wagon would be ok for that too ;)
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:42:28 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: Toyota-Mods mailing list
Subject: Re: How to hot rod an 88 Camry
On Mon, 28 Aug 1995, Kalalahti Matti wrote:
> > Hmmm....I too am thinking of building a hotty Camry family wagon in the
> > next six months (this does not mean I am thinking of a family in the next
> > six months ;)
> >
> > The option I am looking at is the 24valve V-6 (not too sure of the engine
> > numbers) which came out in the top of the line Camry in Australia called
>
> 2VZ-FE (2.5)/3VZ-FE (3.0)?
That's it - 2VZ-FE (2.5)
> > the Avante. My wife prefers a manual so I am hoping the W series tranny
> > will mate up to this motor (I have only ever seen an auto behind the V-6).
>
> Did I finally drink my brains out, or are you talking about
> mating a RWD tranny to basically FWD Camry? I'm not saying you COULDN'T
> convert a Camry to RWD, but that just doesn't sound like one of the
> sanest things to do...
Daing - now I wasn't thinking clearly - forgot that these suckers were
front wheel drive didn't I :( I haven't really had a good look at them
yet (will wait till I have the cash to actually do something) Just seemed
like a good Toyota option to go for to get into a relatively late model car
with a bit of zip.
> > If I can fit 17" rims under the guards and lower it a couple of inches I
> > think it may scare at least a few un-suspecting young racers and would
> > definately look the part. Any info from any-one having replaced the 4 with
> > the V-6 would be most appreciated.
>
> This is starting to sound like my ultimate plan for a sleeper...
> Corona Mark II with Supra Turbo engine tweaked up to 500hp...
> an early 70's Crown wagon would be ok for that too ;)
That is the general idea. Best sleeper I have seen was a stocko looking
Mazda 1300 wagon doing 11.0 down the quarter - that shocked even me! Not
too sure what the mechanical specs were but it was very quiet.
Paul.
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Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 23:10:27 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Intake Modification
--=====================_809592295==_
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I am sending this out to the group because I thought there'd be some
folks interested in it. It is an article I wrote on considerations
on how to design an upgraded intake system for your fuel injected
cars. I'd love to hear some feedback on it. I know that Matti is
contemplating something like this right now.
Chris
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="FIPK4U.TXT"
How to Get FIPK Performance
(Even if a FIPK isn't available for your car!)
The K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit is a wonderful
accessory that is available for many popular high performance
cars. This add-on, also know as the FIPK or FIP Kit, can add
as much as 20% more HP to your engine's performance, simply
by increasing the amount of air flow into the engine. It is
especially effective in engines with high air demands, such
as turbocharged applications.
Unfortunately, the FIPK is made for only a few cars. If a
FIPK application is not available for your car, however, you
may be able to engineer a modification that will give you
FIPK performance increases without having to wait for K&N to
engineer a FIPK for your car. This article will discuss some
of the things to consider when engineering and installing such
a modification.
First, however, the necessary disclaimers. The author and/or
distributor of this article makes absolutely no claims about
the suitability of this modification for any car, nor of the
ability of any person to undertake this modification. Any
effort to do so is completely the responsibility of the
individual choosing to do the work. Furthermore, the author
and/or distributor makes no express or implied indication of the
effect of such a modification on the warranty or legality of
the car for emissions control or any other laws.
Now, keep in mind that the upgrade we're talking about here is
really for fuel injected cars. Carbureted cars aren't going to
see an appreciable difference by doing this. The reason is that
the goal is to smooth the airflow going through the ducting that
leads past the mass air flow sensor, which carbureted cars don't
have. The MAF is critical to the proper operation of fuel
injected cars, since it tells the computer how much air is going
into the engine, and therefore how much fuel to inject.
There are basically two different MAF setups. The first, and
easiest to work with, is with the MAF as a part of the intake
manifold (not a part of the intake ductwork/filter.) This is by
far the easiest to modify, since you don't have to worry with
the MAF to do the modification. The second, and more common,
is where the MAF is part of the intake ducting, usually
integrated into the air filter holder. This will require much
more thought.
There is no way I can provide detailed instructions on exactly
what you need to do. You must inspect your setup and determine
what must be done. The overall goal, however, is to design a
setup that uses smooth tubing and a K&N universal-type cone
filter to replace the restrictive stock setup. The filter is
actually the least of your concerns. After you get everything
else designed, email CAP and let them know what your available
space looks like. K&N makes universal-fit cone filters of nearly
every size and configuration imaginable. They'll have one that
fits.
The main things you need to concern yourself with are construction
material, incorporation of the MAF sensor, air source, and
fastening. Construction material may be the biggest challenge.
K&N has their ductwork mass produced from plastic and/or aluminum
after an engineer carefully fabricates a baseline design. You may
not have that option available to you! However, if you are
creative, you will find something that will work well. The goal
is to find something that is as smooth as possible. Flexible
hosing is available at several places and will work, but in
general this is of an accordian design that induces turbulence.
Very thin-walled, mandrel-bent aluminum would be perfect, but
not many of us have access to something like that. Depending on
room constraints, PVC or similar piping may even fill some or all
of the demands. You will have to decide what is right for your
application.
Incorporation of the MAF is the next most difficult challenge.
If your intake design has the MAF incorporated with the intake
manifold (many GM designs are like this), you don't have to
worry about this. On most Japanese imports, however, you will
have to get very creative with your existing air box/MAF sensor
setup. You may want to find one at an auto salvage yard to
experiment with before you start disassembling your stock setup.
Again, the goal is to make the air flow into the engine in one
smooth shot, so keep this in mind.
Air source is the next key portion of the equation. You will
probably want to put your K&N cone filter in the space previously
occupied by the air box, but not necessarily. Underhood air is
hot air, and that hurts performance. For every 10 degrees that
you reduce the temperature of the air flowing into the engine,
you will gain between 1 and 2 percent in horsepower. If you do
put your new filter where your old air box went, you will want to
keep the stock ductwork that fed fresh air into that location
from the outside of the engine compartment. Although K&N filters
are much more robust in operation when wet than stock-type paper
filters, potential sources of wetness should be avoided. An
excellent place for air intake (but very difficult to engineer) is
at the base of the windshield. The force of the wind against the
windshield when the car is at speed creates a high pressure area.
Placing an air intake in this vicinity will give a small "ram air"
effect to your intake. Unfortunately, this is rarely a convenient
location to place a filter for many reasons. If you are able to
create such a setup, I'd love to hear how you did it!
After you get your construction material selected and the design
implemented, you need to consider how you will secure your setup.
Air leaks after the MAF sensor will have a drastic adverse affect
on the performance of your car. In fact, if your ductwork comes
loose after the MAF, your car may quit running entirely!
Additionally, anything loose under the hood of the car is very
dangerous for a variety of reasons. Cable ties are the answer to
a world of questions, and will probably provide some help here.
Large hose clamps are very good too, and reusable. Sheet metal
screws, used in conjunction with either of these, may also be
helpful. Now is no time to take short cuts--spend some time on
this portion of your design so that it not only stays put, but
is also easy to work on and looks professional.
As I said earlier in this article, the goal was not to provide
answers as much as to give the reader some things to consider in
the creation of a high performance intake system. By carefully
engineering such a system, you may find a source of inexpensive
horsepower for your car. Let me know how I might provide any
assistance in your efforts!
Chris Myer (cmyer@Cyberauto.Com)
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 23:36:35 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Engine sadness & questions... (fwd)
>I'm the owner of an '86 Celica GT-S that now sports a broken
>camshaft... :-( This of course means either some really serious
>engine work (as I understand it), or buying a new/rebuilt/used engine,
>which is the route that's been recommended to me. Now, that's what I
>think I'm probably going to do, but I have a couple of questions...
CAMSHAFT? How did you manage to do this? Never heard of the cam
shaft breaking! Not a broken crank shaft?
>1) Is there anything reasonably quick & cheap I can do to the
>replacement motor to improve performance, as I'm going to have it out
>of the car anyway? I figure now would be the time to change
>things... ;-) I realise this is an awfully vague question, but I
>really dont have much experience w/this kinda thing.
Well, you can get a reground cam plus a set of performance springs
for around $130 or less. This would be an easy upgrade. With the
little thingy that is used to pressurize the combustion chamber, you
wouldn't even have to remove the head.
Before I blather on and on, please tell me if you did indeed break
the cam shaft--this sounds kinda kewl! (Since it didn't happen to
me, anyhow...) ;-)
Chris
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Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 23:59:26 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Previous Attachment
I meant to ask in the email with the attachment...If you don't get this,
let me know and I'll resend it to you. I'm trying to find out how many
emailers will accept this sort of attachment.
Chris
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From: Michael Kronvold
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com"
Subject: RE: Previous Attachment
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 07:47:40 -0500
>I meant to ask in the email with the attachment...If you don't get this,
>let me know and I'll resend it to you. I'm trying to find out how many
>emailers will accept this sort of attachment.
Worked great, came up as a cute little icon embedded in the
email for me to click on. MS Exchange/MS Mail is much nicer
than I had first anticipated (btw, MS exchange comes with win95)
But this has little to do with toyota mods, so I'll shut up now.
- Mike Kronvold '84 Celica GT 22RE, '90 Supra 7M-GE (stock)
- Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering 708 543 9191
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 03:29:04 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: How To HotRod your 88 Camry
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:42:28 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
Subject: Re: How to hot rod an 88 Camry
On Mon, 28 Aug 1995, Kalalahti Matti wrote:
>> >> Hmmm....I too am thinking of building a hotty Camry family wagon in the
>> >> next six months (this does not mean I am thinking of a family in the next
>> >> six months ;)
>> >>
>> >> The option I am looking at is the 24valve V-6 (not too sure of the engine
>> >> numbers) which came out in the top of the line Camry in Australia called
>>
>> 2VZ-FE (2.5)/3VZ-FE (3.0)?
>That's it - 2VZ-FE (2.5)
>> >> the Avante. My wife prefers a manual so I am hoping the W series tranny
>> >> will mate up to this motor (I have only ever seen an auto behind the V-6).
>>
>> Did I finally drink my brains out, or are you talking about
>> mating a RWD tranny to basically FWD Camry? I'm not saying you COULDN'T
>> convert a Camry to RWD, but that just doesn't sound like one of the
>> sanest things to do...
>Daing - now I wasn't thinking clearly - forgot that these suckers were
>front wheel drive didn't I :( I haven't really had a good look at them
>yet (will wait till I have the cash to actually do something) Just seemed
>like a good Toyota option to go for to get into a relatively late model car
>with a bit of zip.
Just like how I keep on tinking my FX is RWD =(
>> >> If I can fit 17" rims under the guards and lower it a couple of inches I
>> >> think it may scare at least a few un-suspecting young racers and would
>> >> definately look the part.Any info from any-one having replaced the 4 with
>> >> the V-6 would be most appreciated.
You can fit 17" rims on your Camry. Its been done here in Hawaii.
It looks pretty damm kewl =)
For you Camry, I would suggest the upgrade package, Um i forget what its
called...where they change your motor mounts to the Lexus one
and some other stuff, makes your car quieter etc etc...
I do belive there is a suspension package.
>> This is starting to sound like my ultimate plan for a sleeper...
>> Corona Mark II with Supra Turbo engine tweaked up to 500hp...
>> an early 70's Crown wagon would be ok for that too ;)
>That is the general idea. Best sleeper I have seen was a stocko looking
>Mazda 1300 wagon doing 11.0 down the quarter - that shocked even me! Not
>too sure what the mechanical specs were but it was very quiet.
Nah, I like the damm agressive looks of the Volvo Turbo Wagon, with those big
damm 16" rims or 17" damm impressive, raced one =) Damm fast =)
But I still would love my Turbo Cressida 7MGTE stationwagon or 4 door,
either or, racing down the 1/4 in my Armani Suit white tie everyting...
Dats my ideer of a sleeper =)
Plus the damm AC works =) Woo woo !!!
> Paul.
Actually...if Chris goes and calls Scotty at Stillen, he can ask about Turbo mods to any car.
There is a dude down here who wants to turbo his 88 Camry, he runs 16" inch rims with a 4 cyclinder.
I told him to look for a V6 model =)
I wasn;t going to reply to this...but since Matti did -sigh-
I still have major page envy =(
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
1987 Toyota Corolla FX-16 GTS
1994 Rollerblade Tarmac CS
http://www.pacsense.com/~koji - The Slowly being built page =(
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 07:31:20 -0600 (MDT)
From: Lance Heinrich
Subject: Re: Wheee !!! (Babble from Koji)
To: Allen T Koji Kam
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
On Sat, 26 Aug 1995, Allen T Koji Kam wrote:
--- Stuff deleted ---
> Ya, for those of you whom don't know about me or why you can't
> understand this message...sorry... thats how i babble =)
>
--- More Stuff deleted ---
> -Allen T "Koji" Kam
This was the most clear message I think you've ever posted to this group :-))
Lance.
---------------------------------------------------------------
| Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
| lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
|
| 1991 MR2 Turbo
| Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged
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To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Intake Modification
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:37:25 -0400
From: Kevin Scaldeferri
>How to Get FIPK Performance
>(Even if a FIPK isn't available for your car!)
>
>The K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit is a wonderful
>accessory that is available for many popular high performance
>cars. This add-on, also know as the FIPK or FIP Kit, can add
>as much as 20% more HP to your engine's performance, simply
>by increasing the amount of air flow into the engine. It is
>especially effective in engines with high air demands, such
>as turbocharged applications.
>
>Unfortunately, the FIPK is made for only a few cars. If a
Does any one have the list of cars the kit is availible for, or a way
to contact K&N. Or, simply, I have an 88 Celica GTS, am I in luck?
Thanks for all the info, Chris. I could probably do a really good job
of making another kit fit, having contacts in the Auto Engineering
dept here at the university, but I'm so dependent on my car, I'd be
pretty apprehensive about it. How long does the work take? How
severe are the risks of screwing something up?
Thanks
Kevin
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 11:50:44 -0400
From: "BETH D. COPLEY"
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
Here is Jeff's take on 22R blocks with 20R heads. He sometimes assumes
that people have a certain amount of knowledge so if he has left
something small out, that's probably why. Here goes:
"There is a lot of things I can say, but what I think you really want to
know is what is the combination that makes the most horsepower. (All of
this is assuming you want to use original equipment stuff.)
- Post '85 22R block
- Pre '85 22R pistons
- '75 20R head
- '80-'84 22R intake valves
- '75-'80 timing chain guides
- post '85 timing chain
- take a hundred thousandths off the head
- use 92 octane and up fuel
Adjust timing until it spark knocks and then back down until it stops.
With this combination you have to drill out the water jackets in the
center of intake side of head to use 22R carb. intake and it helps to
port the intake chamber to match the intake. The addition of 280. 441.
cam and header with 44mm or even better 48mm side drafts will make a mean
street and strip car. For pulling or autocross use the stock cam. For
autocross, 4:10 or 4:11 gears work well. For strip and street, 4:30
gears are nice. I have seen this combination make 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 seconds
difference in 1/8 mile strips. Something else that adds horsepower is to
cut the big ridge off the back of the flywheel."
Comments anybody?
**************************************************************************
******************
Beth Copley Campus Box 2100; 105 Hanes Hall
Degree Audit Specialist Phone: (919) 962-0495
Office of the University Registrar Fax: (919) 962-3349
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill E-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu
**************************************************************************
******************
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 12:08:44 EDT
From: "Marc H. Bremmer"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Exhaust for 22R 4x4
Hey folks,
I have an 86 extra cab 4x4 with a 22R. Mods to the motor are: Weber 40 DGAV
carb, Header, removed most emission controls. My question is..
I have a 2.25" exhaust with a Walker Super Turbo muffler. The truck is kind of
loud( not really loud but loud) do you think this is too large an exhaust for the
motor??? would it do better with a 2" exhaust?? It is not a huge investment to put
in a new system.. My guess is that it will quiet the truck a bit.
Marc
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:57:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: RE: Intake Modification
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
> The K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit is a wonderful
> accessory that is available for many popular high performance
> cars. This add-on, also know as the FIPK or FIP Kit, can add
> as much as 20% more HP to your engine's performance, simply
> by increasing the amount of air flow into the engine. It is
> especially effective in engines with high air demands, such
> as turbocharged applications.
Up to 20% increase? The opinions that I've seen around the Net these days
put it at a few percent. The 20% claim seems way too high.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 12:29:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: EFI Computers
Does anyone have information on interchangability of EFI computers
between Toyota models?
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From: aarndt@sirius.uvic.ca (Aaron Arndt)
Subject: blargh, missing mails and oddities
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 12:27:26 -0700 (PDT)
Well .. ok. I see the thread that i started (re: Chris' advice on my
22re) exists etc, but i have never seen chris' reply to the original
come thru.
My question was, that in your nice big list of things i can do to my
83 Celica to make 'er humm wsa that i do some carbs. Are you telling
me then, that i should lop all my efi stuff off and go to carbeurated
(sp).
BTW .. did we ever figure out if a supra engine of roughly the same
year would fit into a Celica?
Brett Fraser
83 Celica GT Coupe, K+N and 128000km on a 22RE (with shiny red paint!)
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To: aarndt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Aaron Arndt)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: blargh, missing mails and oddities
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 12:38:14 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> aarndt@sirius.uvic.ca (Aaron Arndt) writes:
> BTW .. did we ever figure out if a supra engine of roughly the same
> year would fit into a Celica?
The Supra engine bay is longer, to accomodate the larger engine, so I
wouldn't think it would be easy.
But...I've heard second hand of someone who made it work. See, this
guy wanted a notchback Supra.
I'd vote for modifying the 22RE. The Supra engine'll be heavier, so
you may create the need to modify your suspension, too.
> Brett Fraser
Dan.
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Intake Modification
To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Zublin, Bryan)
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 00:49:25 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> > The K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit is a wonderful
> > accessory that is available for many popular high performance
> > cars. This add-on, also know as the FIPK or FIP Kit, can add
> > as much as 20% more HP to your engine's performance, simply
> > by increasing the amount of air flow into the engine. It is
> > especially effective in engines with high air demands, such
> > as turbocharged applications.
>
> Up to 20% increase? The opinions that I've seen around the Net these days
> put it at a few percent. The 20% claim seems way too high.
> Bryan Zublin
> bzublin@gi.com
I'm not saying 20% wouldn't be possible in some odd car, but it's
certainly not typical. In our tests with restrictive airbox+stock
filter vs. nothing we've only been able to achieve gains in the 8-10%
neighborhood. If the stock airbox flows reasonably well, the gains
may be even lower, around 4-5%... Anyway, once I get the fuel problem
sorted out, it'll be bye bye airbox... I'll keep you posted when
I get that far.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 15:56:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Weber carbs vs. Mikuni carbs
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
I'd like to get some opinions / experiences from anyone regarding the
advantages and disadvantages of Weber carburetors versus Mikuni carburetors.
I am referring to sidedraft carbs, like the Weber DCOE series. I am
currently running dual DCOE 40's on my 20/22R. I am considering purchasing
one of the LC Engineering engines, and need to decide whether to use my
existing Weber carbs or buy new Mikuni carbs (which they show in their
catalog).
I understand that the Mikuni design is basically a copy of the Weber design.
One tuner told me that the Mikuni carbs had fewer adjustments, so tuning
was easier. The opposite argument is that Weber carbs are practically
"infinitely" adjustable, so you can tweak it in just right. Both carbs have
been offered on OEM vehicles (Weber mainly in Europe and Mikuni in Japan,
including Toyota and Datsun).
My main question is whether there are any significant differences between
the two in terms of performance, driveability, and tuning.
Thanks in advance.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 19:16:56 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: RE: Intake Modification
>Up to 20% increase? The opinions that I've seen around the Net these days
>put it at a few percent. The 20% claim seems way too high.
Maybe. Keep in mind that opinions don't count, however. I've had several
people perform mods and write me back and say "that felt like it gave me
about 8-10 hp." Hmmmm. Since when did they get a dyno built into their
fanny? These folks quickly forget that increasing HP != increasing torque,
and you may not feel a 20 hp increase at all. Or, to go a step further,
you could lower your torque enough at lower rpm ranges enough that an
increase in HP actually feels like less power.
Not that I am so gullible to believe what a manufacturer claims, but I do
know that K&N has dyno tested several (all?) of their FIPK's, and 20% is
what they claim to be available to many of the applications, especially
the turbo ones. Not hard to believe that they do this, since K&N
actually has a division (or had, it was kinda shakey) that sold chassis
dyno's.
I guess that it is very important to consider what your intake looks
like and determine if it could be optimized. I know that on my Mazda
323, as well as on my Oldsmobile, these both look extremely inefficient.
Also, to conserve email, Kevin writes...
>Does any one have the list of cars the kit is availible for, or a way
>to contact K&N. Or, simply, I have an 88 Celica GTS, am I in luck?
No FIPK's for the Celicas, any year. Here's what they have for Toyota:
85-87 Corolla
90-95 MR2
94-95 T100
88-95 Pickup/4Runner
92-95 Paseo
86-95 Supra
Call K&N at (800)858-3333 to order a catalog (outside Cali) or
(909)684-9762 (inside Cali).
>Thanks for all the info, Chris. I could probably do a really good job
>of making another kit fit, having contacts in the Auto Engineering
>dept here at the university, but I'm so dependent on my car, I'd be
>pretty apprehensive about it. How long does the work take? How
>severe are the risks of screwing something up?
Well, I would say that the risks are pretty minimal, but if you aren't
completely confident, go to an auto salvage yard and get a setup there
to work on. Keep in mind that an unscrupulous person might keep an
unmodified intake on hand in order to keep the folks at the auto
inspection stations smiling when that time of year rolls around. Not
that such a thing would be tried by anyone in our group.
Chris
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 19:40:37 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
>Comments anybody?
Just one---This is great info!
Chris
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 19:50:16 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Dohhh!
I read Matti's post about the kind of HP gains he's seen after I wrote
my article about "some folks acting like they have a dyno in their fanny",
not before. Matti is one of the few folks whom I believe when he says
"I got a x% increase in HP from that."
Just didn't want anyone to think I was jamming Matti....
Chris
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 17:46:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" ,
Thanks for the info. I have a couple of questions:
1. Does the 1975 20R head have any advantages over the 1976 through 1980
20R heads? I assume that 1975 was the first year of the 20R in the US.
2. I assume that the '80-'84 22R intake valves are larger than the stock
20R valves, so some machining is required. What is involved? New valve
seats?
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: cmyer
Cc: toyota-mods
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
Date: Monday, August 28, 1995 11:50AM
Here is Jeff's take on 22R blocks with 20R heads. He sometimes assumes
that people have a certain amount of knowledge so if he has left
something small out, that's probably why. Here goes:
"There is a lot of things I can say, but what I think you really want to
know is what is the combination that makes the most horsepower. (All of
this is assuming you want to use original equipment stuff.)
- Post '85 22R block
- Pre '85 22R pistons
- '75 20R head
- '80-'84 22R intake valves
- '75-'80 timing chain guides
- post '85 timing chain
- take a hundred thousandths off the head
- use 92 octane and up fuel
Adjust timing until it spark knocks and then back down until it stops.
With this combination you have to drill out the water jackets in the
center of intake side of head to use 22R carb. intake and it helps to
port the intake chamber to match the intake. The addition of 280. 441.
cam and header with 44mm or even better 48mm side drafts will make a mean
street and strip car. For pulling or autocross use the stock cam. For
autocross, 4:10 or 4:11 gears work well. For strip and street, 4:30
gears are nice. I have seen this combination make 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 seconds
difference in 1/8 mile strips. Something else that adds horsepower is to
cut the big ridge off the back of the flywheel."
Comments anybody?
**************************************************************************
******************
Beth Copley Campus Box 2100; 105 Hanes Hall
Degree Audit Specialist Phone: (919) 962-0495
Office of the University Registrar Fax: (919) 962-3349
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill E-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu
**************************************************************************
******************
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 19:53:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Intake Mods
>This sounds very interesting, but I don't understand the mod you are
>trying to describe. Are you simply attaching a K&N filter to your air
>flow meter and removing the stock air box? Or are you moving the air flow
>meter colser to the throttle body? Can you clarify this for me.
The first one. Do you think there is any benefit to be gained by
putting the air flow meter closer to the throttle body? I'd never
considered that.
>Here is a trick I have done to the Starlet which may apply to other
>models. I use the stock airbox in its stock location, but scrap the air
>box cover and filter element. I obtain a filter element the same
>diameter as stock, but 1.5 inches taller. (The 85 MR2 filter works well
>for this on Starlet) I install this with an aluminium cover that I
>fabricate to seal off the center portion of the filter element. It flows
>much better than stock, but is not as water proof.
>
>I also reshape and polish the surfaces before and after the throttle body
>so that it flairs like a trumpet bell to meet the rubber intake tube.
>And I remove any casting ridges or gasket edges inside the airflow meter.
This is exactly the sort of thing I'm talking about. Can you post this
to the entire group? This is great info!
Chris
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 19:43:11 -0700
From: Tony Lanterman
To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Weber carbs vs. Mikuni carbs
Cc: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>My main question is whether there are any significant differences between
>the two in terms of performance, driveability, and tuning.
>Bryan Zublin
"Some racers swear by Webers, some by Mikunis. Your choice
probably depends on availability; both are excellent."
--Pat Braden, _Toyota_Performance_Handbook_
Woodsprite
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Intake Modification
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 09:14:14 -0400
From: Kevin Scaldeferri
>
>Also, to conserve email, Kevin writes...
>
>>Does any one have the list of cars the kit is availible for, or a way
>>to contact K&N. Or, simply, I have an 88 Celica GTS, am I in luck?
>
>No FIPK's for the Celicas, any year. Here's what they have for Toyota:
>85-87 Corolla
>90-95 MR2
>94-95 T100
>88-95 Pickup/4Runner
>92-95 Paseo
>86-95 Supra
>
Sigh...so if I were to go the route of modifying one of these, which
would be the best to work with? Supra? Corolla?
Or, since I'm still a little apprehensive about modifying one, what
other intake mods has anyone done on late 80's Celicas?
Oh, and how much do the FIPK's cost, anyways?
Thanks
Kevin
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 11:51:22 EST
From: Monte Bedford
Subject: 3T-C/2T-C ring job--what's your guess about the engine wear?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Hi,
Need some advice from engine rebuilders or others with experience here.
Right now I'm checking feasibility on the following ring job and the
chance that it might "open up a can of worms."
Short block: 3TC, TRD 2 liter pistons, TRD rallye bearings,
Head: 2TC, TRD "big" valves, double springs
Last rebuild: 23k--a complete rebuild, all new parts: crank,
pistons, bearings, valves, cam, etc. ,etc.. Only reused parts:
magna-fluxed/shot-peened rods, block (cleaned and bored), and head (cleaned,
squared, port and polish). Balanced.
Offhand observation:
Idles "smoothly", seems to drive fine.
Problem: Recent compression test was disappointing.
Compression: 115 90 65 90
Tested when rebuilt: all 95-100
Squirting oil in #3 caused compression to rise to 95
Suspected cause of ring wear: vacuum leak around #3 intake manifold
pulled in some dirty air over a period of time.
Carburetor flow test (I forget the units):
5.5 4.5 3.5 7
But the car seems to run "smoothly".
Oil changes: Castrol GTX/Fram changed every 3k miles. Oil always looked
_really_ clean and clear on dipstick.
(I am not as naive, now--changing to Synthetics/ Toy. filter--or high perf.
filter.)
Driving habits:
Engine never raced. Never past redline (8k); redline _rarely_ approached.
Normal driving not above (occasional) 6-6.5k. Never sustained above 5k. Never
overheated. It has had some cold winter starts.
Basic question: BEFORE I tear it down, what does it seem reasonable to
expect from the condition of the engine?
Plans: ring job
First guess for procedure:
Check crankshaft, rods (etc.), pistons for wear. Put
in new rings, bearings, seals, decarbonize head as needed.
Expectation: Good probability of crankshaft, rod, piston, etc.
condition to be excellent
For those of you who rebuild or see your engine rebuilt frequently, do
you see my expectations reasonable, naive, limited? Or what?
What is the (reasonable) worst case scenario? Always a chance of
significant cylinder wear, but would this be slight, moderate, or great chance
as a problem?
Any feedback, comments, suggestions please?
Thanks a lot.
Monte
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 13:53:51 -0400
From: "BETH D. COPLEY"
To: bzublin@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS))
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....)
>1. Does the 1975 20R head have any advantages over the 1976 through
1980
>20R heads? I assume that 1975 was the first year of the 20R in the US.
>2. I assume that the '80-'84 22R intake valves are larger than the
stock
>20R valves, so some machining is required. What is involved? New valve
>seats?
In response to your above questions:
1. There is a factory stamp on the inside of the front water jacket of
the 20R head that breathes the best (according to TRD and The Toy Store).
'75 20R heads are the only ones that Jeff has been able to find this
stamp on.
2. The '80-'84 intake valves are indeed larger. Machine shop work
required would be new valve seats and porting the inside of the head.
**************************************************************************
******************
Beth Copley Campus Box 2100; 105 Hanes Hall
Degree Audit Specialist Phone: (919) 962-0495
Office of the University Registrar Fax: (919) 962-3349
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill E-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu
**************************************************************************
******************
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 13:56:27 -0400
From: "BETH D. COPLEY"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Diesel question
And now my question of the day for this list:
Has anyone out there had any experiences with the Toyota diesels? Any
ideas for more power out of these things?
**************************************************************************
******************
Beth Copley Campus Box 2100; 105 Hanes Hall
Degree Audit Specialist Phone: (919) 962-0495
Office of the University Registrar Fax: (919) 962-3349
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill E-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu
**************************************************************************
******************
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 08:54:51 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE:Weber Vs Mikuni
Great... 145 email to respond to and I pick this one...cause it
should be on the TM-FAQ =)
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Mon Aug 28 14:27:10 1995
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 15:56:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Weber carbs vs. Mikuni carbs
>I'd like to get some opinions / experiences from anyone regarding the
>advantages and disadvantages of Weber carburetors versus Mikuni carburetors.
> I am referring to sidedraft carbs, like the Weber DCOE series. I am
>currently running dual DCOE 40's on my 20/22R. I am considering purchasing
>one of the LC Engineering engines, and need to decide whether to use my
>existing Weber carbs or buy new Mikuni carbs (which they show in their
>catalog).
First off, I belive the purpose of using carb's or sidedrafts have
to be determined.
Which LC Engineering engine ?
The built one ?
For what application ?
Ask your self: Are these carbs for drag racing ?
Are these carbs for daily street driving ?
Those two are really "general questions", but there is a need to know.
First off, determine the use of your car ?
Where do you live ?
Do you like tuning your carbs daily ?
Do you like tuning your carbs weekly ?
How is the climate in your area ?
How do you drive on the street ?
What is your engine built for ?
What is your driving style ? (spirited,cruiser,drag racer)
What is your budget ?
How big of a carb do you want/need ?
Basically... What do you want your carbs to do for you ?
I've babbled this all before in back postings, so those might be a bit
clearer, if someone can find them =)
The reason you have to ask yourself this, is because of application.
In some cases the Mikuni's are better, in others Webers dominate, and
yet in some other cases... Delortos are champs =)
>I understand that the Mikuni design is basically a copy of the Weber design.
> One tuner told me that the Mikuni carbs had fewer adjustments, so tuning
>was easier. The opposite argument is that Weber carbs are practically
>"infinitely" adjustable, so you can tweak it in just right. Both carbs have
>been offered on OEM vehicles (Weber mainly in Europe and Mikuni in Japan,
>including Toyota and Datsun).
I belive Weber did come out with the first "side draft" for their Jag engines
way back when... Solex-Mikuni came sometime after that...
Mikuni carbs are more "streetable" and usually stay "tuned", so yes, there
are "fewer adjustments" in a street sense, they give reliable tuning.
Webers are basically "infinately" adjustable, however, so are Mikuni's just
that the Webers give more gas flow then a Mikuni (and a Delorto gives even
more flow then a Weber)
>My main question is whether there are any significant differences between
>the two in terms of performance, driveability, and tuning.
I'm glad that is your point also =)
This is how i'll babble this.
If you want to have a daily "performance" with occasional "spirited" driving
or reliable performance from a 1/4 time, then go with the Mikuni.
You have "stable" results from Mikuni's.
Webers need more care and tuning, and more rebuild time also =)
I would get the Weber Carburator book if I were to buy Webers, it gives you
a lot of infomation =)
The Webers have a better gas flow than then Mikuni's, so if you are racing
total top end or 1/4 then Webers are basically for you. (not bracket 1/4)
You can choke down the carbs so it basically starves its self at the end
of the 1/4 but its the performance you want =)
Choking down the carbs are bad though, too much flow is bad...
I personally like the Mikuni's, and only used Webers for 1/4 mile times.
The Webers do have a better gas flow, and for me ran 1.35 seconds faster
down the 1/4.
Of course the Weber "progressive" carb can run a decent 15 second 1/4 time
so don't rule them out =)
Webers are a bit more on the expensive side, so thats where Delorots come in
they provider MASSIVE flow (though unstable) for a cheap price =)
Mikuni's fit into my "budget" and performance expectations perfectly.
>Thanks in advance.
One thing, why only 40's ? why not 44's ? if this is a "race" type application
motor, then 40's won't cut it. You need the 44's for better flow (thats if
you choose Mikuni, else Weber 45's would be it -i tink they are 45's-)
>Bryan Zublin
>bzublin@gi.com
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Mon Aug 28 16:47:38 1995
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 19:43:11 -0700
From: Tony Lanterman >
Subject: Re: Weber carbs vs. Mikuni carbs
>>My main question is whether there are any significant differences between
>>the two in terms of performance, driveability, and tuning.
>>Bryan Zublin
>"Some racers swear by Webers, some by Mikunis. Your choice
> probably depends on availability; both are excellent."
> --Pat Braden, _Toyota_Performance_Handbook_
How about this quote from the _Toyota-Mods_FAQ_
"Use Webers for 1/4 or top end results, they provider better flow.
The Mikuni's are more of a streetable carb, for daily reliable
power. Both are excellent in both applications, just depends...
On How Serious Ya Wanna Get =)"
--Allen T "Koji" Kam, _Toyota-Mods_FAQ_
>Woodsprite
I've babbled enough again and confused everyone again so i'll leave now =)
Actually maybe not... Chris popped into my head.
Manifold selection is part of this also. Since you have a 20/22R motor, generally you have a lot of room for a manifold.
I TOTALLY forgot about manifold choices in talking with Chris =) -bow chris-
The Mikuni manifold is shorter, and the Cannon manifold is longer.
The Cannon is used for more "torque" and the Mikuni is more for "hp" is that right ?
I tink so =)
Generally in my TE-72 I could only run the Mikuni manifold since I had the big stacks on my carbs, generally eliminating use of air filters =(
*Run your carbs slightly riocher if you do run air filters*
Tuning #3 and #4 was quite a problem since my strut tower was right there in the way, so I couldn't slip the syncho inside =(
Use the plastic synchro rather then the metal one, the metal one gets too dang hot and gives unreliable results after a while =)
Damm lag... i've babbled enough again...
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
1987 Corolla FX-16 GTS
1994 Specialized Hard Rock
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From: Kalalahti Matti
Subject: Re: Diesel question
To: edc.our@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (BETH D. COPLEY)
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 00:58:42 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> And now my question of the day for this list:
>
> Has anyone out there had any experiences with the Toyota diesels? Any
> ideas for more power out of these things?
I don't think that there are too many people tuning diesel engines...
The power/money ratio just isn't high enough.
1) change to a turbocharged version of the diesel engine you have.
Most Toyota diesels have also a turbo version. For more info:
http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/dataBySubject/engines.html
2) Get a larger diesel engine.
3) Go for gasoline engines.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 20:25:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: RE:Weber Vs Mikuni (long)
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Koji,
The engine that I am considering is the 200 HP 2.5 liter. It's basically a
22R block bored to 2.5 L, forged pistons (10:1 CR), lightened crankshaft,
prepped rods; 20R head with bigger valves, porting, high lift cam, and
Mikuni sidedrafts. The catalog states that the drivability is good for
street use. I would install it in my 1980 Celica coupe, with the W50
transmission (iron case). The car is driven on the street, and has never
been raced (except for stop light drags against friends). I have considered
slaloming it, but the transient handling is not that great. It does have
stiffer springs and shocks, and anti sway bars, so handling is much better
than stock.
I live in San Diego, California, almost at sea level, so the climate is
relatively warm all year long. Cold starting shouldn't be a problem. I
don't want to tune the carbs at all once they are set (I haven't touched my
Webers in years).
> Webers need more care and tuning, and more rebuild time also =)
> I would get the Weber Carburetor book if I were to buy Webers, it gives
you
> a lot of information =)
Yes, I have a few books on theory of operation and tuning.
> Of course the Weber "progressive" carb can run a decent 15 second 1/4 time
> so don't rule them out =)
Are you referring to the down draft type that have two butterfly valves,
where one opens first and then the second one opens at full throttle? For
the engine configuration I'm looking at, I think sidedrafts are ideal.
Regarding my budget, a $100 difference between Mikuni's vs Weber's is not
much considering the total cost of the assembled engine.
> One thing, why only 40's ? why not 44's ? if this is a "race" type
application
> motor, then 40's won't cut it. You need the 44's for better flow (that's
if
> you choose Mikuni, else Weber 45's would be it -i think they are 45's-)
Yes, this was the other major consideration. The DCOE 40's were $250 for
the pair (new, 8 years ago); the price was good, so I was happy either way
if they were 40's or 45's. My motor as it stands now probably does not flow
enough air to justify the larger size. However, upgrading to the 200 HP
probably requires the larger size. (I don't recall the venturi size that I
have installed; this will determine the major restriction in the carb
itself).
>The Mikuni manifold is shorter, and the Cannon manifold is longer.
>The Cannon is used for more "torque" and the Mikuni is more for "hp" is
that
>right ?
I have a manifold that is about 3 inches long. The pictures that I have
seen of the Mikuni manifolds look like they are very short, like 1 inch or
so. Yes, in general, longer manifold = more torque. This is the basis of
many engines, like the Ford (Yamaha) SHO which has both long and short
runners, used depending on RPM / load.
>Generally in my TE-72 I could only run the Mikuni manifold since I had the
>big stacks on my carbs, generally eliminating use of air filters =(
My DCOEs have "medium" length (2 inches or so) stacks. K&N makes filters
that fit perfectly. There is still about 1/2 inch clearance between the
filters and engine compartment (strut tower). I don't recall if I had
problems fitting the synchronizer.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Wed, 30 Aug 95 02:08:34 PDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: finally on my own acct
Just a quick note to Chris etc. Ive finally gotten my own email acct etc
so I can now stop leeching off my roomies university acct. If its not
too much trouble could you kill aarndt@uglw.uvic.ca off the list, if you
cant easily Ill just wait till he gets back and get his new pword.
Brett Fraser
83 Celica GT Coupe, 128000km on a 22RE (K+N + Shiny new red paint + nice
stereo system)
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Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 06:39:22 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Intake Modification
>Oh, and how much do the FIPK's cost, anyways?
Big range. Retail on the Toyota FIPK's ranges from $197-$315, but I know
a place that sells these same part numbers for $138-$214.
Chris
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Date: Wed, 30 Aug 95 09:27:03 EDT
From: "Marc H. Bremmer"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE:Weber Vs Mikuni (long)
My experience is with the Weber DCOE's and IDF's. I have Dual 40 DCOE's
on my FIAT X-1/9 which is a 1.5l with a 40/80 80/40 medium lift cam.
I drive it on the street. The webers have 30mm chokes and when set-up
properly have Wonderfull drivability. The way mine are set-up I could
go with a larger idle-jet (one size) I have some two sizes larger but they
are too large. The car will just purr around town, but when I drop the
hammer(most of the time) it flies. about 8.0s 0-60 and 125MPH on the top
not too bad for a 1.5l non-crossflow motor with small valves. I run 120
or 125 mains with about 170 or 150 air correctors so you can see
it can really pull some petrol.. on an interseting note.. I went on a
highway trip averaging around 75MPH MORE or less and got 26.5MPG. I was
astonished I only get about 21 around town (24 if I take it easy). But I
do accelerate hard ;-).
Marc
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From: Michael Kronvold
To: "'Christopher Myer'" ,
Subject: RE: Intake Modification
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 08:30:56 -0500
>>Oh, and how much do the FIPK's cost, anyways?
>Big range. Retail on the Toyota FIPK's ranges from $197-$315, but I know
>a place that sells these same part numbers for $138-$214.
>Chris
Care to share? *smile*
I'm considering one for my '90 7M-GE (42k miles). That an an
exhaust setup from HKS. But first, I gotta figure out what's making
act funny in high humidity. Misses, low power, flat spot from 2500rpm
to 3500rpm. Seems fine when the weather is nice, but for the last few
months we've had some of the highest humidity I've had to endure for an
extended period of time. Had a couple cool dryish days and it ran like
new. No oil on the ground, no smoke on startup or idle... guess it's
about time for me to learn how to get the codes outta this engine.
Depressing that just when I was ready to start making modifications,
something would act up. Tho it could just me an O2 sensor or something
equally inexpensive.
- Michael Kronvold white '90 Supra 7M-GE stock
- Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering 708 543 9191
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Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 11:30:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris Hilliard
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: Progressive Carb Expectations
Hey folks,
What kind of performance gain would a progressive carb give
me over my stock carb? I am driving a '77 Liftback with the 2T-C engine.
I hate the stock job that is on it (unless it could be hopped up some how)
and would like to talk to those who have done the progressive route.
I especially would like to talk to anyone that would have one forsale
new or used.
It would be nice to go to sidedrafts or any twin carb set-up
but money forbids plus there are no other mods done to my engine yet
but I am getting tired of those pesky little BMW 2002's around here
that seemingly look for me. I understand it is gonna take a lot more
than a carb of this caliber to do this but a little at a time is all I
can do now.
An ignition system of some sort is in the near future too.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for your patience with the newbe
****BTW****
On page 98 of this months Sport Compact Car magazine there
is a corolla of 80's vintage racing in a dirt rallye of some sort.
I haven't had a chance to read the article yet but I'm off from work
today and the car can use a bath and............
Chris Hilliard
cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org
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Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 17:16:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: Chris Hilliard
Cc: Toyota Mods
Subject: Re: Progressive Carb Expectations
I am not familiar with the carb on your Toyota, but I have had good
results converting stock carbs with vaccum secondary to mechanical
secondary. All you have to do is remove the diaphram assembly fron the
secondary butterfly and make sure to plug the vaccum port with something
(like a cover plate). Then attach a spring that will pull the secondary
open as the linkage from the primary allows. Use a spring of proper
tension so that the linkage can close the secondary. For some models
(Starlet) you can use the spring you removed with the secondary
diaphram. But experiment so that the linkage opens and closes very
positively. No extra power will be gained, but throttle response will be
much improved. There are a few other cool mods which cam be
performed to the stock carb to improve performance. Properly set-up, the
stock 2bbl carb can work extremely well! And there are some cool and
simple ingition mods to give your little car more spunk!
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: Aaron
Subject: Current thoughts
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Supra Mailing List),
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 11:49:08 -0400 (EDT)
Hey folks. You all may notice my new email address. :) The University
of Florida finally decided to eliminate my old account, so here's my new one
with Jaxnet, a Jacksonville internet service provider.
The last thing I was going on about was Nology wires, Thermotec, and
some sort of fuel computer upgrade. I called up Nology and asked about the
wires, and they said they wouldn't sell them to me because they had not
tried them in any Mark III Supras to verify that they would work correctly.
They were unwilling to let me take matters in to my own hands and assume the
risks. I called the tuner shop that used Nology wires that was mentioned
in the Turbo Magazine article and asked them if they had tried the wires
on a Mark III turbo Supra. They said they had and that they didn't work,
that the engine misfired like crazy. They figured the wires were causing
enough EMI to throw off the ECU. At that point I pretty much gave up on the
Nology wires, though in retrospect it might be possible to shield the ECU
against EMI and take advantage of the wires. Anyway, I went ahead and
ordered the NGK wires from NOPI, since I'm getting close to 70K miles now
and figure I may as well change the wires anyway.
Chris, I'm still interested in Thermotec. Did you quote me on a turbo
and exhaust insulation kit for my car yet? If you already did, I've lost
track of it so please quote me again. Dave, I agree that the Thermotec
is probably going to cause the turbo to become hotter and stay hotter
longer. There may be some sacrifice in durability there. However I think
there are going to be performance and potentially durability gains as well
on other engine components due to lower underhood temperature.
As far as the fuel computer upgrade goes: I was trying to figure out how
I could get my car Techtom tuned. Now, several factors have caused me to
rethink that decision. I called two Techtom tuning shops. They way they
worked, I'd either have to drive my car there (Texas or California) for best
results, or just send the ECU in and have them do a "best-guess" tune on it
based on me telling them the mods I had done to my car. Both places quoted
me $900 for the tune. I mentioned that I hoped to see at least some power
increase throughout the rpm band, as well as getting rid of the boost-level
fuel-cut. That guy told me that for turbo cars I shouldn't expect much
power gain throughout the rev band, that the gain would come from increased
boost. He said that the tricks they do with timing, fuel flow etc. that
worked so well on that 240sx don't work as well on turbo cars. After
thinking about it, I had to admit to myself that it would be difficult to
optimize timing, ignition etc. without having the car present, preferably on
a dyno. So it seems that the results of a "remote" Techtom tune would
likely not be any better than going with an HKS FCON or Greddy Rebic LC.
Other factors came to mind as well. From reading the articles in the
Turbo club newsletter, apparently the way the ECU calculates fuel flow at
wide-open-throttle conditions is to just consult a ROM map of fuel injector
pulse-width. The Techtom tuning changes the ROM map to optimize fuel flow.
One thing that worries me though, is that since the Toyota ECU cuts off fuel
flow at 12 PSI, maybe there is no ROM location for airflow greater than
12PSI? If there is no location in the ROM corresponding to >12PSI, I don't
see how the Techtom tune can deliver appropriate amounts of fuel for >12 PSI
conditions. Maybe there is a ROM location for it, I don't know. But it
was an element of uncertainty that caused me to back away from the Techtom
tune a bit more. For comparison, the HKS PFC FCON increases the injector
pulse-width in proportion to the FCON's own boost pressure sensor. I.e. at
14 PSI the FCON sends a 7 PSI airflow signal to the ECU, and increases
the pulse-width signal that the ECU sends back. I don't know how the Greddy
Rebic LC works.
The final straw was that I wasn't sure if I would be satisfied staying
at the ~13.5 PSI level that the stock fuel system supposedly maxes out at.
Running the fuel system at 100% capacity is sort of running the ragged edge
of disaster. I would be risking engine failure due to detonation since I
would have no margin for fuel system problems. Also, if at some point in
the future I did decide I wanted to upgrade the fuel system (injectors
really) I don't know how I'd add that on after the car had been Techtom
tuned. I don't have a high level of confidence that I would be able to
retrofit a bigger-injector solution on after the Techtom stuff had already
been done. The FCON might be confused by the Techtom tuning, or might not
interface with it, or something.
Anyway, the long and short of it is that I've gone temporarily insane
and decided I'm going to have to go the whole ball of wax and get the HKS
F-CON and HKS injector upgrade, for like $2300 plus labor. Chris, could you
please give me a quote on those items? BTW I called HKS and talked to
them about the FCON. I asked if there was a new one coming out, and
the guy I talked to said that there was. He said it was going to be
available in Japan first, then the US. He quoted me six months before it'd
be available, but I don't know if that was for Japan or the US. If that was
the US, that sounds optimistic to me and it realistically might be 12 months
or more. I'm not going to wait for it, though I may upgrade when it comes
out. He said it's supposed to control a lot more than just fuel flow, it's
supposed to do ignition and some other stuff too.
Anyway, I do think that the Techtom tuning, if done right, can improve
performance. I think to do it right though you've got to have the car and a
dyno and do comparisons between different settings until you get it right.
Guestimating it seems as likely to make things worse as better. It just
doesn't seem practical for me to get it done right on my car, and I'd likely
end up buying an FCON anyway when I decided to do the injector upgrade.
Thus my turnaround from my previous opinion.
I'll keep everyone posted. :)
Aaron B.
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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 14:49:09 -0400
From: "BETH D. COPLEY"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: engines
I can get my hands on two 18RG's and one 2TG. If anyone is interested in
one of these, please let me know. My email address is below.
**************************************************************************
******************
Beth Copley Campus Box 2100; 105 Hanes Hall
Degree Audit Specialist Phone: (919) 962-0495
Office of the University Registrar Fax: (919) 962-3349
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill E-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu
**************************************************************************
******************
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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 14:20:34 -0700
From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong)
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Current thoughts
Aaron B. writes:
> Chris, I'm still interested in Thermotec. Did you quote me on a turbo
> and exhaust insulation kit for my car yet? If you already did, I've lost
> track of it so please quote me again. Dave, I agree that the Thermotec
> is probably going to cause the turbo to become hotter and stay hotter
> longer. There may be some sacrifice in durability there. However I think
> there are going to be performance and potentially durability gains as well
> on other engine components due to lower underhood temperature.
I was thinking of doing the opposite instead, i.e wrapping the intake
plumbing which passes right over the turbocharger. This is where the most
critical low vs high temperature might be in the engine compartment,
since you've gone to all the trouble of intercooling the intake charge.
Any ideas out there on this?
Leslie
'87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather, ONLY 170K miles
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To: leslie@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Leslie C. Fong)
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Current thoughts
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 14:25:58 -0700
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> leslie@Cadence.COM (Leslie C. Fong) writes:
> I was thinking of doing the opposite instead, i.e wrapping the intake
> plumbing which passes right over the turbocharger.
I used to have heavy duty aluminum foil around my intake plumbing. I
got the idea from the TPHandbook. I have no idea if it actually makes
any different, but I plan on putting the foil back on some day. I had
to take it off to track down some leaks.
> Leslie
Dan.
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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 17:54:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron
Subject: Re: Current thoughts
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
On Thu, 31 Aug 1995, Leslie C. Fong wrote:
> I was thinking of doing the opposite instead, i.e wrapping the intake
> plumbing which passes right over the turbocharger. This is where the most
> critical low vs high temperature might be in the engine compartment,
> since you've gone to all the trouble of intercooling the intake charge.
> Any ideas out there on this?
I actually have already done this. I didn't really notice any
benefit, but who knows? Anyway, the way I accomplished it was that I went
to Home Depot and bought some foam plumbing insulation, about an
8-foot-long by 2-inch-diameter piece, some heat-resistant aluminum tape,
and some plastic pull-ties. I then cut the foam in half (two 4-foot
pieces). Then I removed the intake piping from the car, the two rubber
and one plastic piece that are accessible in the engine bay. I cut my two
4-foot sections down into smaller pieces and wrapped them around the
piping, using two pieces, one on top and one on bottom. I used the
pull-ties to secure the foam on the intake piping, then I wrapped the whole
thing in the aluminum tape. Looks funky, but it should insulate it
fairly well. The only problem was that I didn't insulate about a 1.5 inch
section where the intake pipe enters the metal tube on top the engine.
Aaron B.
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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 22:59:11 -0400
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: TT Cancellation
kent@best.com (Kent)says
> I'm new here, and while looking through the list's archive for last
> month I saw the thread about the Turbo being cancelled. My local
> dealer told me the same thing a few weeks ago but I didn't believe
> them at the time. How could Toyota do this? And the talk about a
> supercharged Supra made me sick...
>
> So what's the latest status/rumors on the TT?
>
> -Kent ('91 MR2 Turbo, but I will get a '96 Supra TT if they make it)
In light of Kent's query, I just had an unusual experience. I went out to eat
and parked right next to a beautiful red TT. It had manufacturer's plates
(from Michigan - I'm in Los Angeles). After dinner we got to our cars at the
same time. So, of course I struck up a conversation. I asked him about the
cancellation and when would it be made public. He said that he works in a
Toyota equipment group and changes cars every week and was having a lot of
fun with the TT. Tough work! Anyway, he said that this engine (turbo) was
engineered from the beginning as a two year engine. It was never intended to
extend beyond that point. He said that it was just too difficult to take it
and make it work under emissions controls as they are evolving. Since it is
the same basic engine as is used in the Lexus, that was the intent from the
start - just make a souped up version for a couple of years - after all it's
relatively cheap compared to re-engineering a whole new engine (like Porsche
did with their new TT which fits in nicely with advanced emissions
regulations) that from the beginning is designed to fit in with future
emissions regulations. He talked a bit about the problems with turbos and
keeping the stereometric pressure where it needs to be without throwing off
the balance of NOX on the other noxious goodies Anyway, he didn't know when
it would be officially announced - and I forgot to ask him if he had any
inside information about a supercharged version. If anyone is thinking about
getting a TT do it now!!!
John Page
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