^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ P O S T I N G S Oct 1995 ^^^
^^^ --------------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: your mail
To: terlau@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Craig A Terlau)
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 01:56:46 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> Most importantly..........Where did you get the 5K??? and how do you like
> it? I want the full report. In what ways is it different that the 3 or
> 4K? Does it have hydraulic lifters? Is it noticably more powerfull?
5K is 1496cc, used in at least LiteAce vans.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 14:43:15 +0800 (WST)
From: Travis Morien
To: Gary Hong
Cc: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, byrd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: water freezing (was Cooling fuel/Turbo adjustment)
On Fri, 29 Sep 1995, Gary Hong wrote:
> From: Travis Morien
> >On Thu, 28 Sep 1995, Gary Hong wrote:
> >> You are both wrong :). Liquid explands when it gets to it's freezing point.
> >> Try this at home if you like. Fill a jar all the way to the top with water
> >> then cap it and throw it in the freezer. In the morning you'll ssee resuts
> >> of liquid expansion at work.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >>
> >Sorry guys, but I think I'll just break in here. I study physics and
> >chemistry at university. (only 2nd year.. 8( )
>
> Actually, nothing Dick or I said was wrong.
>
> Gary
>
Perhaps, but I was under the impression we were originally talking about
FUEL. If you freeze petrol, petrol ice would sink to the bottom and the
volume of the frozen fuel is smaller than the liquid. ok with you guys?
8) See ya.
Travis
MKI MR2.
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Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 05:09:16 -0500
From: rande@qni.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Name : Randy Eickhoff
Location: Kansas City, MO
Model : 1991 MR2 Turbo
Engine : 3S-GTE
Mods : Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks
K&N Filter
Schroth harness
MSW Type 44 wheels
BF Goodrich Comp TA R1 race tire for autocross
Email : rande@qni.com
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From: Gary Hong
To: phantom@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: water freezing (was Cooling fuel/Turbo adjustment)
Cc: byrd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 95 5:06:16 PDT
From: Travis Morien
>
>On Fri, 29 Sep 1995, Gary Hong wrote:
>
>> From: Travis Morien
>> >On Thu, 28 Sep 1995, Gary Hong wrote:
>> >> You are both wrong :). Liquid explands when it gets to it's freezing point.
>> >> Try this at home if you like. Fill a jar all the way to the top with water
>> >> then cap it and throw it in the freezer. In the morning you'll ssee resuts
>> >> of liquid expansion at work.
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >>
>> >Sorry guys, but I think I'll just break in here. I study physics and
>> >chemistry at university. (only 2nd year.. 8( )
>>
>> Actually, nothing Dick or I said was wrong.
>>
>> Gary
>>
>Perhaps, but I was under the impression we were originally talking about
>FUEL. If you freeze petrol, petrol ice would sink to the bottom and the
>volume of the frozen fuel is smaller than the liquid. ok with you guys?
>8) See ya.
> Travis
>MKI MR2.
Ok with me. When I saw a posting saying that liquid compresses when cold,
I was thinking, "that ain't true! Freeze water and see what happens."
Obviously, this is a car group and you guys were talking aboug fuel, not
water. Never assume :).
Gary
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Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 13:13:15 -0700
To: "ROGERS" ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Re[2]: ME/MINE/MODS. He's back!
At 10:41 AM 9/29/95 -0400, ROGERS wrote:
>
>Subject: Re: ME/MINE/MODS. He's back!
>From: Aric Shen at Internet
>Date: 9/28/95 2:20 AM
>
>A brief background ...
>I suspect most builders use the extrude hone process where you flow a thick
>"sand like" material throught the head. The one head I saw, had port surfaces
>almost mirror like smooth on the intake side. Let me emphasize this I COULD
NOT
>SEE THE GRAIN or any defects in the port passages. That in conjunction with a
>flow bench is the secret. Basically you try to eliminate any "sharp"
corners in
>the intake ports, and to get the ports volumetrically equivalent.
I've been told to stay away from Extrude Hone because the "ooze" that flows
through your head does not actually "know" where to go. Basically, it will
take material off where ever it hits, not necessarily where it needs to be
taken off. I read some article about it in Turbo Magazine when they did a
hand-port vs. an Extrude Hone port on a Mustang head.
>
>Porting for a big valve naturally aspirated head requires a different
>methodology to a turbo charged one. A good source of info is one the countless
>english magazines that like to give in depth articles on how to port the 4
>cyclinder turbo ford cosworth engine. Car and car conversions has tons of
>articles on this.
Thanks.. I'll have to check that out..
>
>Regading building an 8500 RPM engine, the main thing is reliability of the
>crank shaft and connecting rod strength. The newer 4AGE's (90+) crank and con
>rods can take 8500 RPM no sweat (mine does) If you have a 4AGZe, then you are
>safe for 9000. The reason TRD sells a $25xx crank shaft is because the
atlantic
>engines are in the 6000- 9500 rev range continuously. Buying a billet crank if
>you are not racing on a professional level is a waste of money (IMHO)
I actually do have a 4AGZ motor (just not in the car).. did you do any
machining on your stock rods ? or would you if you were to rebuild it using
stock rods ? The thought of buying a $2500 crank NEVER entered my mind..
although Crower in San Diego said they would make one for $2000.. :) I
figure if your crankshaft breaks.. you are doing something wrong.. or
something the motor was never intended to do..
>The ability to rev high and make useful power comes strictly from the head.
You
>have to balance the cams to the porting strategy. Note if you are building a
>race engine which tends to have a narrow power range, you have to sacrifice
low
>end response for high end response. There's no free lunch!
What cams are you using ? or what cams would you suggest ? I am probably go
with a 264 intake and 272 exhaust.. only because I got the 272 for $150
brand new.. what do you think ?
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Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 13:29:20 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: gatewy.uucp.:
>>A brief background ...
>
>>I suspect most builders use the extrude hone process where you flow a thick
>>"sand like" material throught the head. The one head I saw, had port surfaces
>>almost mirror like smooth on the intake side. Let me emphasize this I COULD
>NOT
>>SEE THE GRAIN or any defects in the port passages. That in conjunction with a
>>flow bench is the secret. Basically you try to eliminate any "sharp"
>corners in
>>the intake ports, and to get the ports volumetrically equivalent.
I've been told to stay away from Extrude Hone because the "ooze" that flow
through your head does not actually "know" where to go. Basically, it will
take material off where ever it hits, not necessarily where it needs to be
taken off. I read some article about it in Turbo Magazine when they did a
hand-port vs. an Extrude Hone port on a Mustang head.
>>
>>Porting for a big valve naturally aspirated head requires a different
>>methodology to a turbo charged one. A good source of info is one the
countless
>>english magazines that like to give in depth articles on how to port the 4
>>cyclinder turbo ford cosworth engine. Car and car conversions has tons of
>>articles on this.
Thanks.. I'll have to check that out..
>>
>>Regading building an 8500 RPM engine, the main thing is reliability of the
>>crank shaft and connecting rod strength. The newer 4AGE's (90+) crank and con
>>rods can take 8500 RPM no sweat (mine does) If you have a 4AGZe, then you are
>>safe for 9000. The reason TRD sells a $25xx crank shaft is because the
atlantic
>>engines are in the 6000- 9500 rev range continuously. Buying a billet
crank if
>>you are not racing on a professional level is a waste of money (IMHO)
I actually do have a 4AGZ motor (just not in the car).. did you do any
machining on your stock rods ? or would you if you were to rebuild it using
stock rods ? The thought of buying a $2500 crank NEVER entered my mind..
although Crower in San Diego said they would make one for $2000.. :) I
figure if your crankshaft breaks.. you are doing something wrong.. or
something the motor was never intended to do..
>>The ability to rev high and make useful power comes strictly from the head.
>You have to balance the cams to the porting strategy. Note if you are
building a
>>race engine which tends to have a narrow power range, you have to sacrifice
>>low end response for high end response. There's no free lunch!
What cams are you using ? or what cams would you suggest ? I am probably go
with a 264 intake and 272 exhaust.. only because I got the 272 for $150
brand new.. what do you think ?
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: Pictures of Toyota Engines
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 00:25:47 +0200 (EET)
> > BTW, What version is the 4T-GTEU? I'm not aware of it ever being available
> > to the general public, just know of the Group B & Group C versions for
> > racing.
>
> The picture I have shows it in a production car, not a rally/race car. It
> shows the twin plugs, turbo plumbing, no intercooler, etc. Definitely rear
> wheel drive. According to the book, it was available only in 1982. I don't
> know what model. I would guess it's the same model that had the 3T-GTEU.
I'd guess the picture is of a Celica.
> The 3T-GTEU is listed as being in models with the "1800 GT-T" and "1800
> GT-TR" suffix. The 4T-GTEU is listed as being in the models with the "1800
> GT-TS" suffix.
I haven't seen GT-TS listed anywhere. It must have been a very limited
production. Any idea what distinguishes GT-TR from GT-T?
> Here are listed specs:
>
> 3T-GTEU 4T-GTEU
>
> Displacement 1770 cc 1791 cc
> Bore 85.0 mm 85.5 mm
> Stroke 78.0 mm 78.0 mm
> Comp ratio 7.8:1 7.8:1
> Power 160 PS / 6000 rpm for both
> Torque 21.0 kg-m / 4800 rpm for both
>
> Maybe this engine was used in limited production in order to qualify for use
> in a rally car. I need a Japanese interpreter!
I think you're right. Odd that this 4T-GTEU is only 1791cc, instead of
the 2090cc Group B/Group C versions. I wonder what else is different
in the 4T-GTEU compared to 3T-GTEU, otherwise it looks just the same
as mine except some emissions equipment which seems to be missing
in my car ;) I would have expected an upgraded turbo and such, but
I can't see that in the picture. That should have been reflected in
the power/torque figures as well...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 20:12:55 -0400
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re:Dirk is too flattering!
Dirk,
I'm glad you appriciated my advise on whether to buy the 93T in Canada.
I'm not really THAT wise! I just know a lot about the MkII's (as I should,
being an owner of one). That $7000 markup sounds painful, though! If you knew
that I was a Pittsburgh Penguins fan, you probably wouldn't have that much
respect for me anyway. I'm not bandwagon, my family lives in Pittsburgh. How
about that Lemieux, huh?
(Sorry if I've offended anyone by getting off the subject of MR2's.)
--
-Brent Dye- Columbus, OH Personal Mail:bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu
(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.1k or bdye@bobcat.ohiou.edu
AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2
Happiest on:sunny day, tops out, @7250rpm with 10 psi boost
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From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 21:48:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: posting
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Name: Rick Dormoi
Location: Philadelphia PA, USA
model : 1977 hatch, & 76 Coupe Celicas
Engine: 20-R,s
Mods : engine,suspention, too many to list.
Email: exporter@delphi.com
help
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 00:43:52 -0700
To: Matti Kalalahti
From: di88429@goodnet.com (James Collins)
Subject: Re: Pictures of Toyota Engines
Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>production. Any idea what distinguishes GT-TR from GT-T?
>
When I lived in Japan, my mom owned a 84' Carina GT-TR (Automatic, sadly)
well anyways, i think the difference is that the GT-TR comes with power
everything (locks, windows, etc..)
James
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From: Okelo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 10:20:18 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Corey Nakatani
Vineland, NJ
1987 Toyota Supra Turbo
7MGTE
Turbonetics turbo upgrade, K&N FIPK, Magnecor Wires, HKS: VBC, PFC FCON, TEMS
controller, Tokico Illuminas, Eibach Springs, ST sway bars, GAB strut tower
brace, full rollcage.
okelo@aol.com
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From: Jay_Kopycinski-RYNA10@email.sps.mot.com
Date: 2 Oct 95 10:39:57 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: What does a 1980 Celica Sup
What does a 1980 Celica Supra weigh?
Can anybody tell me what the weight of a 1980 Celica Supra is?
Appreciate any info.
Jay
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Fuel problem solved!
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 03:04:02 +0200 (EET)
Hi all, I already tried sending story about this but Murphy's law
applied and it ended up in /dev/null...
Thanks to everybody who replied to my questions, I decided to
first try connecting the pumps in series.
Tuesday. Rains cats, dogs and other small house animals, generally
like Florida when hurricane hits, except here it was cold too (46F).
No way I'm installing a fuel pump in this weather, so I only got
most of the wiring done. 2V drop in wires for just one pump wasn't
quite satisfactory...
Wednesday. Breakfast at noon, then off to the parking lot.
Now, there isn't that much room while I'm working under the fuel tank,
a generous inch above my waist is about it... First problem was:
where to mount the fuel pump? Right next to the original pump
(above the lateral body structure beam above differential) was just
enought room to mount the second one. If I would have had enough room
to get both of my hands where I wanted, this would have been much
faster, easier and less painful task... Then routed the fuel hoses,
which surprisingly was managable with the hoses I had. The hose going
towards the fuel rail was the only problematic at this point, I had
to momentarily take the end slightly lower, which was greeted by
a flow of nice, fresh fuel right on my hands. Remember, that I was
lying under the car, with minimal room to move and my face right under
the fuel pumps, undercoating, dust and rust conviniently dropping on
my face. Once the hoses were connected I made a remark in my mind to
tie the hoses better to some point ot the bodywork as not to let
them hang there and get caught anywhere. It was time to finish the
installation and connect rest of the wiring. Disconnect the battery
ground wire? Never [zzzzap!] heard of that ;)
Time to start testing! With engine off, fuel pumps running we first
tested the zero flow pressure, by pinching the fuel return line
closed. Well, I didn't even pinch it fully closed once Tero was
shouting "Enough, enough!!" and I could see that myself too, as
fuel started spraying from the pressure meter hose connections...
Well, it was over 7bar (102psi), vs the 2.9bar (42psi) of the old pump.
Looks promising at this point, and Tero is jumping like a
[grease?]monkey all over the place to get into on-the-road testing.
So I gather the tools and off we go. What's that knocking noise coming
from the back? Odd theories get exchanged, and we stop on the side
of the road to see if anything seems out of the ordinary. Not with
a quick look, wheel nuts are tight and so on. So we continue, by now
the engine had warmed up enough to get into serious testing at full
power. Once we get moving again, fuel pumps shut off and engine naturally
stops... Burned fuse. Ok, so it didn't quite go ok at first try. We start
the journey back, and after a mile we burn another fuse when I again get
to mild boost. More imaginative theories get exchanged. We decide to
disconnect the old pump wires. Finally, back at the parking lot, and I
punch it in 1st to some mild boost, and seems like we burned another fuse
but actually the fuel delivery just wasn't enough in this setup
for even slight boost as fuel pressure dropped to 1bar...
Reason for the knocking sound is found to be a loose fuel hose/metal
pipe connection hitting the end of the left driveaxle!
Everything seems to be ok, no short circuits. So we look at how much
current the pumps draw. Not that much, about 6A. So back on the road,
once I picked a handful of fuses... Everything works ok for a while,
and I finally get to punch it without problems. Fuel pressure
increases with boost, but at a rate of only about 70% of the
change in intake manifold pressure. This doesn't seem to be a problem
though, as mixture stays very good at 945-930mV at full throttle.
After a few weeks of being forced to stay off high boost, it was
a glorious experience to finally again rev it up to 7000rpm at full
1.2-0.9bar (17.5-13psi) boost. 3x the posted limit comes quick this way ;)
Fuel pressure got up to a maximum of 3.4bar at 1.2bar of boost.
The mixture is slightly better than it used to be when the original
pump was working well, so it really seems that it was maxing out.
The fuel pump noise decreased to acceptable level with the two pump
setup when both are running. While testing with just the old
pump running, the whine was horrible. So this might be a lasting
setup with enough capacity for future needs.
Soon after this, another fuse blows. And another after 300ft.
And another right after it. So we disconnect the wires to new
pump and limp back to the parking lot. No problems.
So it's time to go under the car and try to locate reason for
blowing fuses. Finally it is found to be the wire that got
routed above the beam which differential is hanging from.
This beam moved enough under acceleration that it squashed the
wire to the body, and caused a short every now and then.
After re-routing this wire, no electrical problems.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Track day report =)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 03:05:37 +0200 (EET)
Thursday. Time for the awaited Ahvenisto track day (twice a year tradition
of the university motoring club TTMK). We had the good intention of
bringing a video camera with us, but that did not happen as the friend
who was supposed to arrange on proved once again to have no arrangement
capabilities whatsoever... So after one hour wasted while he ate and
trying to pick up a camera, we were late already and it was time to
get going. Eppu had just got
new front shock absorbers for Battleship Buick [tm], but we didn't have
enough time to fight witht the installation.
Tero's Alfa limped there
with a defective voltage regulator, and burnt the remaining headlight
on the way there. So what, it needs electricity for just the ignition
nowadays...
Luckily, I find out, that the first fuel filter (non-pressurized one)
had dropped from it mounting and had been hitting the right driveaxle,
before it had been carved through.
Once near Ahvenisto, it's time to fill the tank and bump up the
tyre pressures, 41psi all around. We arrive in time for the second
half hour session of three reserved for cars (motorcycles get their
own sessions).
A cool anecdote: the occasional explosions (when lifting off
the throttle from full boost and back on) in the rear muffler
are visible in broad daylight to drivers behind me ;)
Almost none of you know what kind of track Ahvenisto is.
It's 2.8km (1.7miles) long, with lots of low-speed corners
and almost very short straights, high altitude differences, very
hilly track. Definately a track where handling makes the difference.
I'm already sure by now that I can afford two fast laps in series
before the brakes fade... So I go for the warm-up lap, and
try to leave enough room between myself and the red Golf.
So I get to the corner before the main straights, and go for it!
Damn it, I reach the Golf at the end of the straights already,
and have to pass it on the inside line... I go past the pitlane
at nearly 90mph, and brake for the uphill left-hand corner -
hey, I could've taken that faster! I for sure didn't take that
hill at 65mph before...Then right-hand curve to downhill, and to
my dismay I'm approaching the rear end of green Range Rover...
shit, I can't pass it before the notorious 120degree left-hander,
and I'm stuck behind it until we came out of it. Once past, quick
move back to the right line, and brake for the 60mph left-hander.
Once again I don't quite use the whole track. It didn't handle
even nearly this well before! Now it's time for the series of
the tight curves, which I decide to take on 2nd gear. Get the
rear slightly out with engine braking, then punch it and get
the power oversteer through the first two left/right corners, under
the bridge and for a short while to 3rd gear (>60mph), and back
to 2nd, through the next two left/right corners with power oversteer,
this year now excessive inside rear wheel smoking, just
5% or so of wheelspin with both rear tyres. Off toward the
straights, 3rd, 4th, 90mph, brake slightly, back on throttle,
right to the edge of the track at 95mph, then on the brakes
for the 65-70mph right-hander first uphill, then downhill,
front tyres not happy at this point, takes some persuasion
to make the turn, then accelerate once again past the pitlane.
Second fast lap I had to pass even more traffic, like the previously
fast late model BMW 318 with modified front suspension (very nice, I
rode with that one last time)... the driver of that one is a real
nuttah, no mercy ;) Brakes fade near the end of this second fast lap.
After that lap a cool-down lap, and off to hear how good I actually had
been. 1:48.2 was the answer. I'm quite happy with that, I could have been
about 2-3 seconds faster without the other traffic. And my time last
September had been 1:56, which I was not happy at all about...
that was with dead front shocks, less boost (160hp) and crappy Continental
175/70HR14's. So Koni, LSD, BFG 195/50ZR15 and 35-40hp more (195-200hp)
pulled me from the mid-field to the front runners. With my time
I was 3rd fastest, behind the Escort (very serious, tested several
headers and such on the track, just under 1:46) and the faster
Golf GTi (1:47.8). The next two were the BMW 318 (1:48.8, 225/50R16,
2-3 degrees negative front camber, good brakes) and
Tero's Alfa (finally beat him on the track, 1:49.1 - 205/50R15,
3 degrees negative front camber, stiffer springs, Mintex brakes, 150hp,
200lbs less weight than Carina. First time we both ran 1:56/1:54.2, then
1:56/1:50 - he improved with more power, 195/60R15 tyres and more negative
camber, I ran with similar setups at both times).
So next time improvement will be sought with negative camber to front
(2-3 degrees, now at 0), stiffer springs, and hopefully about 260hp
of power.
Some drivers had spins or slight offs on the track, among
them Porche 924 which spun in front of Buick - no damage.
I only slipped one rear tyre off the track when Tero was riding
with me, it seemed to be more understeering with more weight :(
The only major off was the first fast lap of a Camry V6, which went
to the tyre wall right after the pits. Quite a bit of bodywork
to be replaced there, but he was able to drive home.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: What does a 1980 Celica Sup
To: Jay_Kopycinski-RYNA10@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 03:37:09 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> What does a 1980 Celica Supra weigh?
> Can anybody tell me what the weight of a 1980 Celica Supra is?
Curb weight 1314kg, 2895lbs.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 1995 20:49:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: kiksta@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (Seth Willenberg)
Subject: Exhaust for 1992 MR2 Turbo
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I am looking for the exhaust sytem that will give me the most bang for my
buck. I am currently searching for the most cost-effective, well-proven
and well-manufactured cat-back system. I have thus far received estimates
in the neighborhood of $400 for such a system by HKS (the best?). Is this
a good price? If not, where can I go to get a competitive price? What
other good brands have you seen/heard of? Does anyone have specific
experience with any particular products? What were the ACTUAL performance
gains?
Any help is greatly appreciated, and ANXIOUSLY anticipated.
Thanks in advance,
Seth.
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 23:22:31 -0700
To: kiksta@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Seth Willenberg),
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Exhaust for 1992 MR2 Turbo
At 08:49 PM 10/2/95 -0500, Seth Willenberg wrote:
>I am looking for the exhaust sytem that will give me the most bang for my
>buck. I am currently searching for the most cost-effective, well-proven
>and well-manufactured cat-back system. I have thus far received estimates
>in the neighborhood of $400 for such a system by HKS (the best?). Is this
>a good price? If not, where can I go to get a competitive price? What
>other good brands have you seen/heard of? Does anyone have specific
>experience with any particular products? What were the ACTUAL performance
>gains?
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated, and ANXIOUSLY anticipated.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Seth.
>
Give Dynamic Autosports a call.. I've always had good luck with them :)
(714) 457-1234, ask for Ed, tell him Aric sent you.. and yeah, get the HKS..
the Trust/Greddy stuff seems (to me) overpriced and most importantly, ugly..
you might want to check to see if he has an RS*R available for your car..
the RS*Rs are usually fairly quiet (good or bad) and look pretty good..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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To: michael kronvold
Cc: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com"
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 3 Oct 95 9:45:40
Subject: RE: fuel going, going, gone...
Michael Kronvold writes:
> I have been meaning to test this theory: When the tank is
> low on fuel and I notice the performance loss, Open the cap
> and let the air equalize (do you hear a rush of air when you
> open your cap to fill your tank? I do.) Then get back in
> and drive and see if this effects things.
I do hear a rush of air when I open the gas cap. The 'rush' seems stronger
when the tank is almost empty. I've always had this 'rush' even before I
started doing mods to my engine... however, back then, I didn't feel any
difference.
So, I'm convinced that its the tank's breather. Where is this breather? How
do I unclog it? Do I have to drain the tank? Is it worth it? Maybe I should
just file it in my car's 'special instructions' manual. ( Item # 56 - When the
tank is half full, 'burp' the gas tank...) ; )
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18R-G
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 12:49:45 -0400
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Quid=Pound?
I guess you learn something new everyday! I'm not much of a Benny Hill
fan, but I love Monty Python. Guess I could have looked up 'quid' in the
dictionary and saved myself the embarassment :). Never heard Monty's cast say
that one before. Matter of fact, never heard any of my college professors
(English) say that either. Never took an Econ class with one though...
Mine just misspell words like liter, meter, airplane, etc. You Brits are
funny... I always wondered how you guys learned the American Revolution in your
history classes.
Anyway, good luck with your newly installed fire extinguisher... hope you never
have to use it.
Yanky
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 11:27:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: your mail
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: Craig A Terlau
Peter writes:
>STOP PRESS : If anyone's interested, just picked up a copy of "Hot 4's
>& Performance Cars" here in Aust. It's got a KE30 with a 3T-GTEU in
>it! First one I've ever seen. Gonna make for some interesting
>reading. Looks like a fairly easy fit.
Does anyone know if this magazine is available in the US? I would
like to read this article.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 11:33:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: Limited slip differential for 1980 Celica
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
>>Does anyone know where I can get a limited slip differential for my 1980
>>Celica? Is TRD the only supplier?
>Believe it or not, you'll probably be money ahead to get a Supra rear
>axle and put it under your Celica. The limited slip diffs are so much
>cheaper than those for the Celica that you'll pay for the axle, plus
>you'll get rear disks and a stronger differential to boot.
>Chris
Chris,
This sounds like a good solution. Does this require major modifications to
the body of a 1980 Celica? I would guess that it would.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 20:51:03 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: What does a 1980 Celica Sup
>What does a 1980 Celica Supra weigh?
>Can anybody tell me what the weight of a 1980 Celica Supra is?
Jay:
After stripping a significant amount of weight out of my 80 Celica
(non-supra), it weighed 2225 lbs without me in it. That was without
AC, gas tank, heater core, side and rear windows. It was _with_ a
roll cage, however. I think you can safely figure your Supra
(with its larger engine) weighs just under 3000 lbs. No lightweight!
If you want to know for sure, simply go by a public scale. These
usually exist at places like big moving companies that charge by
the pound. You can even get a good idea of the front to rear
weight ratio by getting separate readings with just the front and
just the rear tires on the scale. Check the yellow pages.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 21:41:15 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Limited slip differential for 1980 Celica
>This sounds like a good solution. Does this require major modifications to
>the body of a 1980 Celica? I would guess that it would.
Although I never actually got to do this, I looked at several junked
Supra's for this very reason. Truthfully, I think it would just bolt
right in. Keep in mind that those years of Supra were just a version
of the Celica, so the basic body mounts should be identicle. Just
make sure you get one with the solid rear axle and not the IRS. THAT
would be a job!
Chris
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 22:14:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: Update on my poor car
To: Toyota Modifications Mailing List ,
I thought I'd update everyone on how my saga is going. You all
may recall that my engine developed a knock at about 3000 rpm, that my
mechanic diagnosed by ear as being a warped rod. My engine has been
completely torn down now. Apparently the knocking was due to a badly
warped rod bearing. In addition to the single terrible bearing most
of the bearings showed signs of more-than-normal wear. Also the
cylinder wall bore apparently is out of whack, and my head is warped
(hm, maybe multiple meanings there?). Also, both engine motor mounts
are broken. And, as it turns out, when we disassembled the engine we
noticed that a turbo compressor wheel blade was fairly dinged up, and
apparently had left a scratch in the turbine housing. We could grab
the compressor wheel and cause it to touch the housing, which isn't
supposed to happen.
Anyway, the diagnosis by my mechanic and Billy Gulley is that the
engine got too hot, either due to detonation or due to running out of
oil when my turbocharger came completely apart about 6 months ago. As
far as the turbo goes, I sent it back to Turbonetics again and they
said that some debris must have been sucked into the turbo to cause
the blade to get dinged up like that and knock it into the housing.
So that's what went wrong. As far as repair, let's take the turbo
first: Turbonetics is going to repair the wheel and do a "maintenance
kit" on the turbo, i.e. bearings and seals. Cost: $240. Not too bad
I guess.
As far as the engine goes, I am going to have Billy Gulley do his
whole prep on it. As it turned out, the rods and pistons were fine.
The crankshaft is scored because of the bad bearing but Billy thinks
his crankshaft guy can fix it (I hope, that's $750 otherwise). Billy
is going to surface the head to get it flat again. He's going to
have to bore the engine combustion chambers, too, since they're
apparently no longer straight (or something, I'm not clear what he
meant there). Anyway, since he's boring the block I have to get six
new .020-over pistons and rings. We're replacing the rod bearings and
main bearings. Then Billy's going to do the rest of his prep, which
as I understand consists of:
* blueprinting the engine and grinding all parts (rods, crank,
block, head) and balancing them to exacting tolerances for
less resistance
* stress relieving the crank
* shaving excess material off the rods and stress relieving them
* competition 3-angle valve job
* thermal-coat exhaust header
* port intake manifold
* ceramic-coat pistons and combustion chamber for less heat
absorption (equals more power and less risk of heat damage)
All that's going to come to about $2600, labor only. Then when
he's done my mechanic gets it back. My mechanic is going to replace
the motor mounts, replace the clutch, replace the head gasket and head
bolts, replace several hoses and assorted other parts, and reinstall
the engine and turbo. My mechanic's parts and labor (all parts
furnished through my mechanic) are going to come to about $2700. That
plus the turbo is going to be around $5600, not including rental car
charges, shipping and handling of various parts, etc.
I wish I could have afforded the time and money to go with
non-stock parts for pistons, rods, and clutch, but I can't afford
either. I think the pistons and rods will be ok for pretty
high-horsepower applications once Billy's done the stress-relief and
ceramic-coat on them, but I have a feeling the clutch will only last
about a year before it's time to replace it again.
I also wish I had a clearer idea what I could have and should have
done to avoid this. Unfortunately I don't really know what in
particular caused the problems I've had. The best advice I can give
to avoid having the sort of problems I've had is that you have to be
very careful when you start increasing the performance of your car.
>From the number of folks who've done it without problems we know that
well-engineered engines such as in Supras can have their power output
doubled or more without problem. I think the amount of attention and
care you have to provide increases exponentially as the power
increases linearly, though. As you increase power the operational
safety margin decreases drastically, and you have to pay more
attention to make sure the engine stays in happy operating conditions.
I would also suggest that unless you're comfortable experimenting
on your car and dealing with some trial-and-error you should follow as
closely as you can in the footsteps of someone who's already done the
pioneering. In some cases that may mean sticking with a
manufacturer's upgrade plan (i.e. HKS), in other cases it may be just
following the footsteps of another list member. When you set out on
your own and push the envelope of the upgrades you've done, as I have
(rather than only pushing them 90% and leaving some safety margin),
you can get into dangerous territory.
Anyway, if all goes well I hope to have my car back again in about
another two weeks (it's already been down for four). If anyone has
any questions or comments I'd be happy to hear them.
Aaron B.
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 22:18:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: NEEDED! Head Gasket
To: Toyota Modifications Mailing List ,
I just received terrible news from Chris. He says that HKS and Greddy
are back-ordered 6 weeks on 7MGTE head gaskets. I'm in a quandary.
I can't handle rental cars for another 6 weeks. I don't think my
old HKS metal head gasket is in good enough shape to re-use, especially
since we've let it get banged up since we were planning on getting another.
And I don't want to put another stock gasket in, because then my options are
either to drop the boost and have my $9000 worth of modifications be
wasted, or face replacing the head gasket again 6 months down the road.
Does anyone have any special connections that could get me a head
gasket? Or any other ideas?
Aaron B.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 21:55:00 -0700
To: Aaron Buhr ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: NEEDED! Head Gasket
At 10:18 PM 10/3/95 -0400, Aaron Buhr wrote:
>
> I just received terrible news from Chris. He says that HKS and Greddy
>are back-ordered 6 weeks on 7MGTE head gaskets. I'm in a quandary.
>I can't handle rental cars for another 6 weeks. I don't think my
>old HKS metal head gasket is in good enough shape to re-use, especially
>since we've let it get banged up since we were planning on getting another.
>And I don't want to put another stock gasket in, because then my options are
>either to drop the boost and have my $9000 worth of modifications be
>wasted, or face replacing the head gasket again 6 months down the road.
>
> Does anyone have any special connections that could get me a head
>gasket? Or any other ideas?
>
>Aaron B.
>
Have you tried calling Lance from Toyomoto in Florida.. he's real big on
Supras.. he might have one laying around..
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 01:24:29 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@mbnet.mb.ca (Fred Oberbuchner)
Subject: Need help on injectors - 4AGE/4AGZE
Hi all!
I urgently need to know what the part# and specs are for the injectors
in the Supercharged 4AGZE. In particular, I need to know how they compare
to the ones originally in my 88 Corolla GTS (4AGE). From looking at them,
the ones in the 4AGE seem different from "normal" injectors.
The 4AGE ones seem to have a "cap" over the business end of the injector which
would apparently split the fuel "jet" into 2 "jets". The larger injectors
out of an early Supra we looked at did not have this cap. (sorry if
terminology is incorrect!) Would this be because the 4AGE has 2 intake
ports? What would be the implications of using an injector without this
splitter cap?
I believe the stock injectors flow 210 cc/min. Can anyone confirm this? The
ones we currently have in flow around 250 cc/min (guess).
Anyone got a set of 4AGZE injectors laying around (cheap!)?
Thanks,
Fred
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 01:31:18 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@mbnet.mb.ca (Fred Oberbuchner)
Subject: Injector failure modes?
Has anyone every heard of an injector failing in the OPEN position?
(ie. dumping vast amounts of fuel in the engine thereby drowning it?)
Thanks,
Fred
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 07:13:51 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: NEEDED! Head Gasket
>Have you tried calling Lance from Toyomoto in Florida.. he's real big on
>Supras.. he might have one laying around..
Nope. Gordon (Lance's brother-in-law) has had his Supra up on blocks
for several weeks waiting on one. First place I looked.
Chris
(BTW, Stillen was the second. They called HKS while I waited and were
the ones that told me to expect 6 weeks. Bummer!)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 07:30:29 -0400
From: "ROGERS"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Wrong Parts
Hmmmm,
Let me relate a story, 2 weeks ago, I was trying to get some bushings for
my modified starlet. The problem is that I am using the original starlet arms
mated to a celica rear end. When I went to my local toyota dealer, he said he
would have to order the complete starlet arms from japan, 6 weeks yada yada
yada...
My mechanic fixes industrial machines for a living (He fixes cars as a hobby)
and his company sells all types of heavy machinery to places like Ford, GM etc.
one of the machines they have for internal uses is a press machine. They use it
to press bearings into all kinds of gadgets. I went over to his office one day
and pressed the bearings out myself! There is a guage that tells you how much
force you are applying. Since my suspension arms are the originals, 10 years+
of salt and rust required something like 40 tons to get them out. Kudos to you
for beating them out with a cold chisel!!
(Some Industrial machines have bearings which must be frozen in nitrogen and
then put in place -- try beating those ones out!)
On with the story... It turns out (and it makes sense from a tooling point of
view) that many of Toyotas bearings are interchangeable. Toyota part number are
structured something like 42xxx-TA451. Where the part after the dash specifies
the car. Hence in all likely hood 42001-TA451 and 42001-AE851 will most likely
interchange if they are similiar parts. AE851 specifying corolla and TA45
specifying celica.
If you go to Totota, they will not sell you rear suspension bushings for an 87
corolla gts, they will try to sell you complete arms, yet TRD will sell you
competition bushings only -- Go figure.
Also you said you beet the crap out of the bushings to get them out, but did
you get the sleeve out as well? I thought i had burned mine out, and my
mechanic just laughed at my ignorance, the rubber bearing is usually attatched
to a metal sleeve (At least in my case).
End result, I am probably going to order 8 TRD bushings for a corolla GTS and
press the hell out of them into my 83 starlet suspension arms. I cross
referenced this by getting a celica bushing that would work (you can buy early
7x celica bushings seperately) and cross referenced this number in one of the
early TRD catalogues (The ones with the pictures) which has the same initial
number and price as corolla ones.
Roger
_______________________________________________________________________________
Subject: **Wrong Parts**
From: "Dick Byrd"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: **Wrong Parts** at Internet
Date: 9/19/95 10:55 PM
Damn, those dealers piss me off. I picked up from my local, smiling Toyota
dealer the metal-rubber bushings that go into the lower control arms on an
'85 Camry to hold the anti-roll (stabilizer) bar. Had to beat the crap out
of the old ones with a cold chisel to get them out. Then I find out that the
ones the dealer gave me were at least 1/4" to big to go into the holes.
There I am - control arms with no bushings, and bushings that won't fit
into the control arms. *Shit*
Go back to the dealer and he looks it up again and says: Oh, yours is
an '85 Huh! On those, you have to repalce the *whole conmtrol arm* which
has the bushings pressed in at the factory (No wonder I had to beat the
crap out of them). And the bad news is -- $139.00 EACH. Great Day!!.
I'm not giving the rising sun $238 for new control arms -- NEVER.
I reassembled the arm with large washers and exhaust hanger rubber
donuts and it seems to be OK. Am I due for a quick trip into a ditch?
Don't tell me to bus those new control arms. I'd sooner drive it off
the nearest cliff!
Stuff from Dick Byrd
byrd@mnsinc.com
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Development
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 10:13:36 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Need help on injectors - 4AGE/4AGZE
> From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Oct 4 02:47:00 1995
> Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 01:24:29 -0500
> X-Sender: fredo@access.mbnet.mb.ca
> Hi all!
>
> I urgently need to know what the part# and specs are for the injectors
> in the Supercharged 4AGZE. In particular, I need to know how they compare
> to the ones originally in my 88 Corolla GTS (4AGE). From looking at them,
> the ones in the 4AGE seem different from "normal" injectors.
>
> The 4AGE ones seem to have a "cap" over the business end of the injector which
> would apparently split the fuel "jet" into 2 "jets". The larger injectors
> out of an early Supra we looked at did not have this cap. (sorry if
> terminology is incorrect!) Would this be because the 4AGE has 2 intake
> ports?
>
> I believe the stock injectors flow 210 cc/min. Can anyone confirm this? The
> ones we currently have in flow around 250 cc/min (guess).
>
> Anyone got a set of 4AGZE injectors laying around (cheap!)?
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
>
In '88, the 4AGE was bumped from 112HP to 115HP. One of the differences, if
not the ONLY, was a modified injector, which I believe altered the fuel spray.
So in answer to
>What would be the implications of using an injector without this
> splitter cap?
If it's used to modify the spray pattern, and was not used on pre '88 4AGE's..
I'd say the implications are a 3 HP loss.
Mark Sink
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 11:50:02 -0700 (PDT)
Name : Richard Leong
Location : Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada
Currently attending Simon Fraser University.
Model : '86 Celica GTS Coupe
Engine : 3S-GE
Mods : Borla universal muffler with 4 inch Sebring tip, HKS powerflow filter,
Aeroform body kit with customized rear apron from a hatchback kit,
PIAA 959 fog lamps, 16*7.5 TSW Stealths w/215/40/16 P700s,
Clifford Arrow with dual perimeter sensor.
Future Mods : new shocks and springs, custom paint job?, catback exhaust,
performance headers, other possible engine mods
e-mail : leongc@sfu.ca
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: your mail
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 00:27:52 +0200 (EET)
> Peter writes:
>
> >STOP PRESS : If anyone's interested, just picked up a copy of "Hot 4's
> >& Performance Cars" here in Aust. It's got a KE30 with a 3T-GTEU in
> >it! First one I've ever seen. Gonna make for some interesting
> >reading. Looks like a fairly easy fit.
>
> Does anyone know if this magazine is available in the US? I would
> like to read this article.
> Bryan Zublin
> bzublin@gi.com
I'd like to read that article too. If I'd get it I'd scan it for all
to read on my WWW pages...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 16:06:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: your mail
To: Matti Kalalahti
Cc: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Matti,
Peter sent me mail saying that the article was a disappointment. But, any
info is better than none. Maybe he can send you a copy.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: toyota-mods
Subject: Re: your mail
Date: Thursday, October 05, 1995 12:27AM
> Peter writes:
>
> >STOP PRESS : If anyone's interested, just picked up a copy of "Hot 4's
> >& Performance Cars" here in Aust. It's got a KE30 with a 3T-GTEU in
> >it! First one I've ever seen. Gonna make for some interesting
> >reading. Looks like a fairly easy fit.
>
> Does anyone know if this magazine is available in the US? I would
> like to read this article.
> Bryan Zublin
> bzublin@gi.com
I'd like to read that article too. If I'd get it I'd scan it for all
to read on my WWW pages...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: Matti Kalalahti
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list),
Subject: Re: your mail
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 95 09:11:13 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
>I'd like to read that article too. If I'd get it I'd scan it for all
>to read on my WWW pages...
As I've already mentioned to someone else here, the story was
a bit of a let-down -- not much info on the technical aspects
of the swap.
Anyhow, I'll see if I can scan it in sometime in the not too
distant future so that you can decide for yourself.
Cheers,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: For Info: Car Prices in S'pore
To: btptan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 01:31:55 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-mods mailing list)
> from "Drive" Mag (local motoring mag) July 1995 Used Car
> Reckoner tables:
>
> Exhange rate is now US$1.41 to SIN$1.00
> Finland, US$
> '88 RX7 S$35K == US$25K $15K, but I can't fit in one
> '92 MX6 S$71K == US$50.7K $21K, nice, but FWD copmobile
> '93 Merc 420SEL S$395K == US$282K ?, about $70K
> '92 BMW 325i S$155K == US$111K $51K
> '93 MR2 S$103K == US$73.5K ('91) $21K
>
> '77 KE30 S$10-14K depending on condition $200-$1600 (stock 3K)
> '76 - '80 TA40, T20 - 2T-B S$12-18K $500-$2600 (stock 2T)
> '78 BMW 315 S$22-24K $1000
> '83 Starlet S$19-26K depending on mods done $400-$1900 (stock)
>
> New Car Prices: Finland [US$]
> LS400 S$368K $173K
> 2.2l Camry S$200K $45K
> 2.0l Corona ABS S$178K $36K (Carina E 2.0 GLi, GTi is $51K)
> 1.6l Corolla S$119K $31K
> RX7 S$236K not available
> MX5 S$166K $53K
> RS Cosworth S$193K ?, about $70K
> Merc S320 S$397K $175K
> Merc 320SL S$494K $237K
> 200SX S$180K not available - top models Maxima, Primera :(
> Audi A8 4.2l S$406K $206K
> BMW 316i cmpt S$120K $34K
>
> Oh, and gas is S$1.08/l for 92 OCT (NOT Gal!)
> S$1.17/l for 98 OCT.
US$1.11/l for 95 unleaded
US$1.14/l for 98 unleaded ($4.3/gallon!)
> It'd be interesting if someone would fill in the prices in the US beside
> these and repost the msg. Maybe someone in Europe and Australia can do it
> too?
>
> Anyone from Israel here? I understand that S'pore is second only to Israel
> for the cost of motoring.
Finland maybe a good runner-up?
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From: Craig Pugsley
Subject: Re: 3TGTEU KE30
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 09:58:48 +1000 (EST)
> > >STOP PRESS : If anyone's interested, just picked up a copy of "Hot 4's
> > >& Performance Cars" here in Aust. It's got a KE30 with a 3T-GTEU in
> > >it! First one I've ever seen. Gonna make for some interesting
> > >reading. Looks like a fairly easy fit.
> >
> > Does anyone know if this magazine is available in the US? I would
> > like to read this article.
> > Bryan Zublin
> > bzublin@gi.com
>
> I'd like to read that article too. If I'd get it I'd scan it for all
> to read on my WWW pages...
Ok ok, if the original poster can't scan the article I'll buy a copy and
scan it in.
OBQuestion:
What factory turbo engines will fit into the first of the front wheel
drive celicas?
Cheers,
Craig.
PS how many fellow Australians are on toyota-mods?
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To: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Cc: Matti Kalalahti ,
Subject: Re: your mail (3T-GTEU into KE30 Corolla)
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 95 10:03:34 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
I've been looking thru my magazines lately trying to get ideas. I'll see
what I can dig up as far as modified Toyota's. One that I read thru last
night may be interesting -- replacing a 1986 4AGE Corolla Seca with a
4A-GZE. Also, a (TA22?) Celica with 3T-GTEU -- 15 sec 1/4 mile; slow due
to wheelspin in at least the first 3 gears!
May your tyres go up in smoke,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: 3TGTEU KE30
To: c.pugsley@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Craig Pugsley)
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 02:38:20 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> OBQuestion:
> What factory turbo engines will fit into the first of the front wheel
> drive celicas?
3S-GTE is the only sensible option. Unless you want to convert it to RWD ;)
There are also 2E-TE, 3E-TE and 4E-FTE, but those put out only 100-133hp
so forget them.
4A-GZE too, but that is SUPERcharged...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: your mail (3T-GTEU into KE30 Corolla)
To: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Peter Mejak)
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 02:49:31 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> I've been looking thru my magazines lately trying to get ideas. I'll see
> what I can dig up as far as modified Toyota's. One that I read thru last
> night may be interesting -- replacing a 1986 4AGE Corolla Seca with a
> 4A-GZE. Also, a (TA22?) Celica with 3T-GTEU -- 15 sec 1/4 mile; slow due
> to wheelspin in at least the first 3 gears!
That sounds PITIFUL! TA22 is at least 200kg lighter than my TA60,
so it should do better (even with completeley stock engine, stock boost).
Wheelspin at 3rd? Better get some *tyres*, not "condom factory rejects".
Even with the worst tyres (Continental SuperContact, Dunlop D40, bald
MXV2) I only got wheelspin up to 90km/h (end of 2nd gear then), and got
the 1/4 mile in 15 seconds. Now it's in the mid 14's, slightly under
100mph, wheelspin only in 1st... To put it short: BFG ZR's kick butt,
but you can't do those 150ft burn-outs ;)
> May your tyres go up in smoke,
Well, a set lasts about 6-7kmiles for me ;)
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 20:50:29 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Wrong Parts
>Also you said you beet the crap out of the bushings to get them out, but
did you
>
>get the sleeve out as well? I thought i had burned mine out, and my mechanic
> just laughed at my ignorance, the rubber bearing is usually attatched to
>a metal sleeve (At least in my case).
Be careful with those sleeves! In some cases (at least in the case
of the Energy Suspension bushings) you must retain and re-use the
original metal sleeves.
FYI
Chris
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Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 18:09:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: Limited slip differential for 1980 Celica
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Bryan writes:
>This sounds like a good solution. Does this require major modifications to
>the body of a 1980 Celica? I would guess that it would.
Chris writes:
>Although I never actually got to do this, I looked at several junked
>Supra's for this very reason. Truthfully, I think it would just bolt
>right in. Keep in mind that those years of Supra were just a version
>of the Celica, so the basic body mounts should be identical. Just
>make sure you get one with the solid rear axle and not the IRS. THAT
>would be a job!
Bryan replies:
Yes, I believe that the 1979-1981 Celica Supra rear end should be a direct
bolt-in to a 1978-1981 Celica. I guess I was asking if an IRS rear end
would require majors mods, and you answered that.
Does anyone know if the first Celica Supras (79-81) were available with
limited slip (in the US)? I didn't think that they were. Also, is the
differential stronger than the same year Celicas? I know the ratios are
different, something like 3.909 for the Celica Supra and 3.737 for the
Celicas.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 22:14:38 -0400
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Sqky clutch on 94/my opinion on posts
I know it's been about a week since this topic was last discussed, but I'm
concerned about my clutch, now. I've had a little squeak in it ever since I
got the car, but I've been ignoring it ever since lubrication (i.e. WD-40)
failed to change the somewhat annoying problem. I know someone was replacing a
gammet/pin in the clutch, but is it even possible mine are worn after only
16,100 miles? Not really sure what to do (if anything), but it is a minor
annoyance...and we know how those tend to get MORE annoying later!
***As for the messages about cutting the chit-chat, I'm going to have to go
with Stu. I enjoy everyone's personal stories/disasters with their cars. At
the very least, we can learn from others mistakes. Stu, for instance, has
taken the inititive of getting a fire extinguisher mounted to his MR2 after my
post on a possible flaw in the top-mounted oil filter catching fire (while
changing your oil). Maybe it was more of a scare, talking about engine fires,
that got Stu to take action. I enjoyed the stories later about stupid
grease-monkeys, too :-). I don't care if they weren't answering my question
about the oil filter.***
I can't believe the FAQ on the WWW page said that "<900" 94 MR2's were
sold in the US. That means only about 250 94T's were sold... I feel special :)
--
+----------+--------------+ +------------------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |_______|Personal Mail:bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.1k +----------------------------------+
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 +--------+ Quiz: I'm my brother's brother.
+--------------------------------+ Who am I? (Answer:Me) :-)
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 20:37:50 -0700
To: Fred_Oberbuchner@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Fred Oberbuchner),
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Need help on injectors - 4AGE/4AGZE
At 01:24 AM 10/4/95 -0500, Fred Oberbuchner wrote:
>Hi all!
>
>I urgently need to know what the part# and specs are for the injectors
>in the Supercharged 4AGZE. In particular, I need to know how they compare
>to the ones originally in my 88 Corolla GTS (4AGE). From looking at them,
>the ones in the 4AGE seem different from "normal" injectors.
>
>The 4AGE ones seem to have a "cap" over the business end of the injector which
>would apparently split the fuel "jet" into 2 "jets". The larger injectors
>out of an early Supra we looked at did not have this cap. (sorry if
>terminology is incorrect!) Would this be because the 4AGE has 2 intake
>ports? What would be the implications of using an injector without this
>splitter cap?
>
>I believe the stock injectors flow 210 cc/min. Can anyone confirm this? The
>ones we currently have in flow around 250 cc/min (guess).
>
>Anyone got a set of 4AGZE injectors laying around (cheap!)?
>
>Thanks,
>Fred
The stock 4AGE injectors are 210cc.. I'm not sure about the 4AGZ injectors
though.. I do know however that the stock Supra Turbo injectors are 420cc,
the Eclipse/Talon Turbo are 385cc or 420cc (I've heard arguement over the
figure).. someone told me the Toyota Turbo Truck came with 295cc..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: 5 Oct 1995 16:18:05 U
From: "David Chandler"
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: "Toyota Mods"
Name: A. David Chandler
Location: Huntsville, AL
Model: 1991 MR2 Turbo
Engine: 3SGTE
Mods: None to date, want a new rear suspension
email: david_chandler@cpqm.saic.com
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: For Info: Car Prices in S'pore
To: k124476@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Matti Kalalahti)
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 19:27:47 +1000 (EST)
Cc: btptan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> >
> > Exhange rate is now US$1.41 to SIN$1.00
> > Finland, US$
Ok for OZ, A$1 = 75c US
> > '88 RX7 S$35K == US$25K $15K, but I can't fit in one
A$17(13B)-25K (turbo)
> > '92 MX6 S$71K == US$50.7K $21K, nice, but FWD copmobile
A$30K
> > '93 Merc 420SEL S$395K == US$282K ?, about $70K
sorry don't know but probably around the A$100K
> > '92 BMW 325i S$155K == US$111K $51K
A$70K
> > '93 MR2 S$103K == US$73.5K ('91) $21K
A$35+K, 90 A$29K
> >
> > '77 KE30 S$10-14K depending on condition $200-$1600 (stock 3K)
A$1500-2500
> > '76 - '80 TA40, T20 - 2T-B S$12-18K $500-$2600 (stock 2T)
A$3K
> > '78 BMW 315 S$22-24K $1000
we don't have this, only the 318/320 A$8K
> > '83 Starlet S$19-26K depending on mods done $400-$1900 (stock)
nope, Corolla 83 A$5K
> >
> > New Car Prices: Finland [US$]
> > LS400 S$368K $173K
I think this is around the A$140K mark
> > 2.2l Camry S$200K $45K
A$24K
> > 2.0l Corona ABS S$178K $36K (Carina E 2.0 GLi, GTi is $51K)
dont get this model
> > 1.6l Corolla S$119K $31K
we get the 4AFE and 5AFE, A$18K - A$40K
> > RX7 S$236K not available
A$85K
> > MX5 S$166K $53K
A$42K (my next car, don't worry, the 4AGE stays as well)
> > RS Cosworth S$193K ?, about $70K
import only, A$50-60K
> > 200SX S$180K not available - top models Maxima, Primera :(
A$40K
> > Audi A8 4.2l S$406K $206K
I don't think we get this model yet.
> > BMW 316i cmpt S$120K $34K
A$38K
> > Oh, and gas is S$1.08/l for 92 OCT (NOT Gal!)
> > S$1.17/l for 98 OCT.
>
> US$1.11/l for 95 unleaded
> US$1.14/l for 98 unleaded ($4.3/gallon!)
prices for fuel differ from state to state, and time to time
at the moment in Brisbane, Qld
ULP (92) 59.9c/L, last week 69.9c/L
PULP (96) 4c/L more than ULP from my friendly station
>
Car prices in Australia aren't too bad, but they have gone up quite a lot
recently. You can compare against the OZ made cars
Holden Commodore (3,8L V6, 200hp, TH700) A$30K
Ford Falcon (4.0L OHC 6, 210hp, BW85) A$30KA
Holden Commodore (5.0L V8, 220hp/250hp) A$40K (same for Ford Falcon)
The last of the 4AGE Corolla (93) was A$30K, current Sprinter 5AFE is A$40K
Celica (2.2L, we don;t get 3SGE) A$42K onwards, A$80K for the GpAGT4 if you can find one
No Supra, MR2 3SGE(bathurst - stripper version) A$50K, (GT - loaded) A$65K
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 11:16:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scotty!
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 90 Tercel no more
Dear Listers,
I don't have my 90 Tercel anymore. I now have a 91 Honda Civic Si. Does
this mean I'm off the list?????
Curious,
Scott
Scott Y. Amano e-mail: umamano0@cc.umanitoba.ca
Faculty of Management, University of Manitoba, Canada
"Enviro-Unfriendly"
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Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 01:00:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Starlet Pushrods
I Put the old tired 4KE engine into my street Starlet to replace the
recently trashed one (needed transportation). I soon discovered that the
engine had severe valve noise even though I had just adjusted the
valves. I decided to replace the hydraulic lifters with solid ones I had
on hand. The only problem is that the total length of the lifter-push
rod assembly for the 4KE (with hydraulic lifters) is 5.5mm (.217 inches)
greater than that of the 4KC (with solid lifters). The reason is that
the 4KE has a shorter head and dished as opposed to flat-top pistons. A
trial fit revealed that the valve train geometry would be unacceptable.
The solution was to cut .217 inches from the center portion of the
pushrods and TIG weld them back together using a clever jig. I did this
and installed the shortened push rods. The result is a quiet runing
engine with experimental push rods. I was uncertain about this mod when
I first dreampt it up, but it seems to work fine. I have already driven
it a couple hundred miles. I'll report if the thing fails. Meanwhile
preparing the next Super-K.
\|/ ____ \|/
@~/ ,. \~@
/_( \__/ )_\
\__U_/
Craig
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Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 10:24:13 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh)
Subject: Exhaust
I'm looking for some advice on exhaust systems. I have a '85 Celica GTS
and I am considering going with a header and exhaust system. I drive my
car everyday, so I dont want it to be too loud. If I notice a significant
amount of difference in power, then I wont mind the noise so much. Any
recommendations, and if so, how much noise, and is it worth the noise?
-Frederick "CULTURE"
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: Tire problem
To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 11:42:45 -0700 (PDT)
I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this but anyways...
Which way are you supposed to mount Pirelli P700 tires. For those who
have seen the tread pattern on the tires, they sort of have treads
looking like arrows. When looking at the tires from directly in front of
the car, are you supposed to mount the wheel so that the tread
pattern(arrow) points up or down? In other words :
/^|^\ /v|v\
|^|^| |v|v|
|^|^| <-- UP DOWN --> |v|v|
|^|^| |v|v|
\^|^/ \v|v/
Which way is it? Right now I have it so that the tires are pointing
downward on all fours, after the idiot installer put the tires in the
front pointing one way and the tires at the back pointing the other way.
Someone please tell me that's not the right way to put them on. Then I
called them back after discoverring they had made the blunder. The guy
said the tire tread, the "arrow", is supposed to point toward the front
of the car. Right now, I'm just seeking some second opinions. Another
puzzling thing is that I've been flipping through magazines comparing
other cars with the same tires. Some have them pointing down, some up,
and some have them one way in the front, the other way in the back. I'm
confused.
Richard
leongc@sfu.ca
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From: Gary Hong
To: leongc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: Tire problem
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 95 13:39:59 PDT
From: Richard Leong
>
>I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this but anyways...
>Which way are you supposed to mount Pirelli P700 tires. For those who
>have seen the tread pattern on the tires, they sort of have treads
>looking like arrows. When looking at the tires from directly in front of
>the car, are you supposed to mount the wheel so that the tread
>pattern(arrow) points up or down? In other words :
>/^|^\ /v|v\
>|^|^| |v|v|
>|^|^| <-- UP DOWN --> |v|v|
>|^|^| |v|v|
>\^|^/ \v|v/
>
>Which way is it? Right now I have it so that the tires are pointing
>downward on all fours, after the idiot installer put the tires in the
>front pointing one way and the tires at the back pointing the other way.
>Someone please tell me that's not the right way to put them on. Then I
>called them back after discoverring they had made the blunder. The guy
>said the tire tread, the "arrow", is supposed to point toward the front
Richard,
I know you're talking about the arrows on the surface of the tire, but look
at the direction arrows on the sidewalls and that'll tell you in which
direction the tires will rotate.
The dir arrow points in different directions if you look at it when the arrow
is at the top vs when it's at the bottom of the sidewall (it's all relative:)).
I have P700z on my M3 and my tires have the dir arrows pointing to the front
when the dir arrow is at the top. Pointing towards the rear when the dir arrow
is at the bottom of the sidewall.
I think the tires should look like this from the front. I'll check my car
this evening.
/v|v\
|v|v|
DOWN --> |v|v|
|v|v|
\v|v/
>of the car. Right now, I'm just seeking some second opinions. Another
>puzzling thing is that I've been flipping through magazines comparing
>other cars with the same tires. Some have them pointing down, some up,
>and some have them one way in the front, the other way in the back. I'm
>confused.
It depends on the tires and tread.
Gary
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From: KlingK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 1995 07:14:07 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: KlingK@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Kevin Kling
Location: Galway, NY ( north of Albany, west Of Saratoga )
Model: 91, MR2 Mk II, Black, T-Top, 89K Miles, No LSD, EH Steering,ABS
Engine: 5SGTE
Mods: None - YET
Email: klingk@aol.com
It was a great experience finding this group and the MR2 web page I spent
about 3 hours looking through the information there. I also found out that I
am effected by BOTH of the recalls on this model ! Is there any way I can
find out if the prev owner had them done or should I just drag it to the
dealer and have them do them. Also what is involved with the fixing of the
problems ( do I get a new steering wheel ! ).
Problems I have had:
Temp Sensor: replaced ( saw that in FAQ )
Alternator Idler Pully - Bearings went: Replaced ( didn't see that one )
dealer wanted to replace my TURBOCHARGER ( not under warranty at a cost of
2200.00 for parts ) because bad bearings in it were causing the noise I was
hearing, after explaining to them that there was no oil loss, blue smoke and
that the problem was related to engine speed and not turbo speed they backed
down and gave up on the problem. Took to a small garage and they found the
problem nd replaced the bearing.
Boost Overrun: under some conditions boost gauge would go off scale and
making the assuption that the stock engine may not handle this I had them
replace something under warranty ( wastegate maybe ??? ) that didn'f fix it
anyway - problem went away on it's own. Although After seeing the HKS
products it looks like I could have saved some money and just left it broken
and had extra boost - assuming the fuel cutoff worked it would have been kind
of safe.
Wet/Cold: hesitation and bucking when getting into boost, any boost anybody
have any ideas on this ? The problem goes away when it warms up.
Transaxle noise: general gear noise - may be normal ? I have never driven
another and it has been doing it for 55k with no filings or any other
problems although the 2nd gear syncros are getting a little touchy mostly
when cold - And I hate to say it but with 4 Blizzaks on it I have never been
stuck in the last 2 winters I have had it on the road ( I know that is a
stoning offense but .... ) It also started fine one morning when it was 40
BELOW - ever shifted with a gearbox that felt like it was full of oatmeal ?
Yes I have been living in a cave but I Really Really like my MR2 and would
like some feedback from other people who are as hooked as I am and can give
me some guidance about making mods and general info on the make Given that it
is destined to become a classic now that they are out of production ( sniff,
sniff ).
thanks for reading my ramblngs
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: P700 problem
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 1995 10:16:13 -0700 (PDT)
I wrote something regarding having problems with the way I should install
my P700s on my car a couple days ago. Thanks to all of those who replied
back. I forgot to mention that these tires DO NOT indicate anywhere on
the sidewall which way the tires are supposed to be installed. I assume
they can be put on in any fashion. I'm more concerned with the advantages
of having it put on one way as apposed to the other way, if there are
any. Particularly in the rain. Someone posted before that he had an M3
with P700s on. I was wondering which way he had it on, and if his tires
had arrows on the sidewall indicating the direction. I am also not yet
convinced that these tires hold well in the rain like they should. I
thought that getting these tires would solve wheel spin during
acceleration in the rain, but it doesn't seem to. I do know
that the CELica I have, '86 GTS is known for that problem.
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From: Gary Hong
To: leongc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: P700 problem
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 95 12:17:01 PDT
From: Richard Leong
>
>I wrote something regarding having problems with the way I should install
>my P700s on my car a couple days ago. Thanks to all of those who replied
>back. I forgot to mention that these tires DO NOT indicate anywhere on
>the sidewall which way the tires are supposed to be installed. I assume
>they can be put on in any fashion. I'm more concerned with the advantages
>of having it put on one way as apposed to the other way, if there are
>any. Particularly in the rain. Someone posted before that he had an M3
>with P700s on. I was wondering which way he had it on, and if his tires
>had arrows on the sidewall indicating the direction. I am also not yet
>convinced that these tires hold well in the rain like they should. I
>thought that getting these tires would solve wheel spin during
>acceleration in the rain, but it doesn't seem to. I do know
>that the CELica I have, '86 GTS is known for that problem.
Richard,
I have P700z on my M3. These tire are performance tires and are not made
specifically for the rain. It handles ok in the wet but I don't risk
doing anything stupid in the rain.
If you want the tires to handle in the rain, why don't you get aquatreads? :)
I have my car downstairs so I can take a look at the tires later on. The P700z
do indeed have an arrow. Its not obvious in that it's not painted white.
Look for a raised arrow on the sidewall.
Gary
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From: Gary Hong
To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: P700 problem
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 95 12:40:45 PDT
From: Richard Leong
>
>I wrote something regarding having problems with the way I should install
>my P700s on my car a couple days ago. Thanks to all of those who replied
>back. I forgot to mention that these tires DO NOT indicate anywhere on
>the sidewall which way the tires are supposed to be installed. I assume
>they can be put on in any fashion. I'm more concerned with the advantages
>of having it put on one way as apposed to the other way, if there are
>any. Particularly in the rain. Someone posted before that he had an M3
>with P700s on. I was wondering which way he had it on, and if his tires
>had arrows on the sidewall indicating the direction. I am also not yet
>convinced that these tires hold well in the rain like they should. I
>thought that getting these tires would solve wheel spin during
>acceleration in the rain, but it doesn't seem to. I do know
>that the CELica I have, '86 GTS is known for that problem.
Richard,
I have P700z on my M3. These tire are performance tires and are not made
specifically for the rain. It handles ok in the wet but I don't risk
doing anything stupid in the rain.
If you want the tires to handle in the rain, why don't you get aquatreads? :)
I have my car downstairs so I can take a look at the tires later on. The P700z
do indeed have an arrow. Its not obvious in that it's not painted white.
Look for a raised arrow on the sidewall.
Gary
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From: KlingK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 1995 17:11:36 -0400
To: leongc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: P700 problem
I don't have the P700's but from other directional tires I have had the tread
pattern looks like a directional one, the v shaped lateral grooves are the
general sign.
As far as direction to mount them if there are no arrows and the words "this
side toward outside" or something like that I would say that you want the
"V"'s to point backward ( the open part of the "V" backwards ).
Also on the wet traction issue all you can really hope for is better
aqua-planing resistance since I don't think a stationary ( or nearly so )
tire behaves the same as a high speed rolling tire. So other than a really
soft compound I dont think much will help here. But I could be wrong :-o
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From: Michael Kronvold
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com"
Subject: tires again (was RE: P700 problem)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 07:58:39 -0500
I put a set of Dunlop D60A2's on my Mk III and boy did they make a
difference in the rain. These aren't sold as a rain tire or a snow
tire, they're an "All season performance tire". *shrug* whatever.
they have 4 (yes 4) 5/8" channels (huge channels imho, I have found
lotsa neat things stuck in them too, like rocks, a ball bearing, a
.32 cal Semi wad cutter.) They are only H rated (120?) but I don't
race on these and rarely get near 120 on the street. Their dry
performance has been good. Not as good as the RE71's (obviously)
but they have a treadwear rating of 280 and I'm expecting at least
30k miles if not more. (Actually, I got them with a 50k treadwear
warranty so I guess I'm getting 50k outta them whether they last that
long or not!) Compared to the ultra performance tires (which I get
10k-15k miles on) this is a pleasant change. Should last quite a
few winters. At this point in time I am planning on getting p-zero's
when the spring rolls around and use these as "winter" tires. But,
in all likliness I will not have the money come spring and drive them
all year 'round.
Anyone else tried these tires? I think these are great tires
for all year street use. Obviously not track tires, or for serious
street performance nuts, but how often do you push the car past its
limits? I don't think I've ever slid through a turn or ground the
front tires (supra's natural understeer in action) around an extremely
hard right. Am I nuts? Are these tires going to disappoint me
eventually? I've only put about 2k miles on them so far and no snow
yet.
Speaking of understeer, "The Toyota Performance Handbook" suggests
varying tire pressure to fine tune your suspension to a more neutral
balance. Any suspension buffs out there? I'm looking to learn more
about suspensions...
--
Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering
(708)543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA
-----
From: Gary Hong[SMTP:garyh@sco.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 1995 2:17 PM
To: leongc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com; toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com; toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: P700 problem
From: Richard Leong
>
>I wrote something regarding having problems with the way I should install
>my P700s on my car a couple days ago. Thanks to all of those who replied
>back. I forgot to mention that these tires DO NOT indicate anywhere on
>the sidewall which way the tires are supposed to be installed. I assume
>they can be put on in any fashion. I'm more concerned with the advantages
>of having it put on one way as apposed to the other way, if there are
>any. Particularly in the rain. Someone posted before that he had an M3
>with P700s on. I was wondering which way he had it on, and if his tires
>had arrows on the sidewall indicating the direction. I am also not yet
>convinced that these tires hold well in the rain like they should. I
>thought that getting these tires would solve wheel spin during
>acceleration in the rain, but it doesn't seem to. I do know
>that the CELica I have, '86 GTS is known for that problem.
Richard,
I have P700z on my M3. These tire are performance tires and are not made
specifically for the rain. It handles ok in the wet but I don't risk
doing anything stupid in the rain.
If you want the tires to handle in the rain, why don't you get aquatreads? :)
I have my car downstairs so I can take a look at the tires later on. The P700z
do indeed have an arrow. Its not obvious in that it's not painted white.
Look for a raised arrow on the sidewall.
Gary
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: P700s
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 09:25:20 -0700 (PDT)
I'm not writing about my tire woes again, rather just to let everyone
know that I bought these tires because they were the only tires in this
size besides the Euro TAs, which I avoided. If I could've found a better
rain tire, I would have. The right size is actually 215/45/16 to keep the
stock diameter, but only a brand or two makes it, and it's expensive.
Anyone who could find another brand in that size or close would be nice,
but I would like something in the 215/45/16 or 215/40/16 range
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 12:47:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: HKS PFC F-CON?
To: "Leslie C. Fong"
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Leslie, have you installed your new F-CON yet? You did just the F-CON,
no injector upgrade right? I'd like to hear what you think of the F-CON
unit by itself. I think most other members who have the F-CON did the
injector upgrade at the same time. You are running higher than stock
boost, right? What boost level are you running now?
Aaron B.
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 14:53:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: Latest Update
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
BTW, as far as the update for my car goes, apparently I misunderstood.
I didn't actually have a spun rod bearing, so therefore the crank was not
actually scored. Apparently they're just going to polish it up and it'll
be fine, which is good since I don't want to spend the $750 for a new
crank.
Also, I managed to locate a new head gasket. On Monday A2Z systems
told me that Greddy had a couple 85mm x 2mm head gaskets in stock, so I
bought one and should have it by Friday. While I was doing some research
on head gaskets, trying to find one I discovered some interesting
information and conclusions. The stock cylinder bore size is 83mm. HKS
makes 7MG head gaskets only in the 86mm bore size, in thicknesses of 1.0,
1.2, 2.0, and 3.0 mm. Greddy makes them in either 83mm or 85mm bore
sizes, with thicknesses of 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0. Billy Gulley pointed out
to me, and I have to agree, that you're best off getting a head gasket of
the exact same bore as your cylinders. Otherwise, you have two "lips"
(upper and lower), something like this:
/------\
| | <-- cylinder head (83mm diameter)
_| |_
|_ _| <-- head gasket (85 or 86mm diameter)
| |
| | <-- block cylinder bore (83mm diameter)
|--------|
|:piston:|
|: :|
The sharp edges on those lips will tend to act as focus points for heat
energy, thus hastening detonation and engine damage. I was running the
HKS 86mm bore by 1.2mm thickness, which was 3 mm wider than the 83mm
stock cylinder bore size I was running. Since my new cylinder size is
going to be 83.5mm, after being bored .020 over, I'm stuck with getting
a too-large head gasket. But I do recommend that anyone with stock cylinder
bore sizes get the Greddy 83mm x1.5mm head gasket when they change head
gaskets.
The new gasket has a 2.0mm thickness, which I have mixed feelings
about. The main reason I went with it is that that was the only size that
was readily available, but there are other good reasons to drop
compression, namely to run higher boost with less chance of detonation.
Unfortunately, for now I will not be running any higher boost than
before, until I get a new fuel computer/injectors, so power will be down
a bit from what it could have been, but with all the balancing, grinding,
etc. I expect the car will still be significantly more powerful than it
was before the rebuild, even with the compression drop.
Does anyone know how stroke is measured? Bore is the diameter of the
cylinder in which the piston moves, of course. But does the stroke
include the space within the head, or not? And is it measured as the
amount of space within the block (or block & head), or is it a measure of
the piston travel? The figures I have for a stock 7MGTE are 83mm bore,
90.9mm stroke. Using a simplistic equation, compute engine displacement
by (bore diameter/2)^2 * pi * stroke * number of cylinders, which for the
7MGTE is (83/2)^2 * pi * 90.9 * 6 ( / 1000 for mm/cc) = 2951 cc, which
is pretty close to 3.0 liters. I suppose there is still room for the
head volume, because I think the actual displacement of the 7MG series is
2995 or something. If there were 42 cc's left over, divided among 6
cylinders, that's 7 cc per cylinder cylinder head volume. That doesn't
really seem like enough, since the cylinder bore is already 8 cm diameter.
Can anyone shed light on how these things are calculated? Once I know how
to calculate displacement from bore * stroke, I can figure out what my new
compression ratio will be (stock is 8.4 for the turbocharged engine).
Aaron B.
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From: Gary Hong
To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: P700s
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 95 12:13:16 PDT
From: Richard Leong
>
>I'm not writing about my tire woes again, rather just to let everyone
>know that I bought these tires because they were the only tires in this
>size besides the Euro TAs, which I avoided. If I could've found a better
>rain tire, I would have. The right size is actually 215/45/16 to keep the
>stock diameter, but only a brand or two makes it, and it's expensive.
>Anyone who could find another brand in that size or close would be nice,
>but I would like something in the 215/45/16 or 215/40/16 range
Richard,
I check my tires and the drivers side (from the front has arrows pointing
down). The passenger side has arrows pointing up (from front). Never knew
I was out of sync :). The tires are bald (literally) anyways so I'm going
to change them within the next few weeks.
Gary
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 95 12:47:52 -0700
From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong)
To: ambuhr@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: HKS PFC F-CON?
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Aaron,
I haven't put the HKS PFC F-CON into my Supra yet. I need to
negotiate the estimated time with my fiance (one of the perils of
engagement). Between that and debugging my MPG problem, repairing
her 240SX, reroofing the house, etc.... I haven't had a whole lot
of lattitude in scheduling "optional" car repairs. At least I have
all the related HKS instructions/manuals now.
I used to run higher than stock boost, but then my Supra (7M-GTE)
picked up a strange appetite for premium gas even with only stock
boost levels, so I disabled my CarTech hyper-boost "switch". Turns out
it was due to a bad radiator cap causing the block/head to run too hot
(detonation), even though the temp gauge never showed it to be a problem.
I erroneously assumed it was from a non-dealer tune-up which put in some
bum platinum plugs, so I switched over to the HKS plugs last time, with
no real improvement in detonation. Now that I've got that problem solved,
I can go back to hyper-drive when I reconnect everything up with the
F-CON too. The sooner the better, as I'm getting tired of newer cars
coming out that are as fast as us (stock). With boost around 11PSI, I
recall being able to induce wheelspin when shifting into 2nd (manual)
gear.
The F-CON should be the last engine mod for a while, until I
learn more about future Calif emissions tests. It's unlikely it'll
get any easier to pass a modified car here. I've already upgraded
the intercooler, boost, exhaust, plug wires, air filter, and I still
passed the current tests (with both cats in place). The next logical
step would be a turbo upgrade with injectors (and metal gasket), but
its big bucks and would probably be nixed by the gas sniffers. Now
they even have road-side detectors being planned around here...
A better upgrade path might be an NOS kit, since it could be
completely disabled (and hidden?) during the testing process. But I
don't like the idea of having to fill the bottle, or worrying about
laughing gas leaking into the passenger compartment.
In any case, I'll be sure to file a good write-up on the (old style)
F-CON when I finally get it installed...
Leslie
'87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather, ONLY 173K miles!
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: disaster - $2000 vacuum hose?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list),
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 22:36:15 +0200 (EET)
Cc: k124775@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Katajainen Tero),
This morning I started driving towards Toijala, to pick up my parents
Nissan PAtrol - in order to participate in the yearly fuel economy
competition (we won out class last year with the Carina - true
consumption was about 5.4l/100km, 43.5mpg). Up to halfway the 33 mile
trip, everything was fine. I was passing the other traffic at
80-120mph. I had to slow down to 40mph behind a van, and once I had
passed it and kept accelerating up to 120mph just for the fun of it,
I felt a hesitation. Immediately I got off the throttle and looked
at the mixture. Just fine. Test at more boost, still just fine, actually
somewhat on the rich side. But while the mixture was ok, the boost
wasn't. I could only get up to 15psi, from there the boost dropped to
10psi at 6000rpm. At this point I'm cursing - I knew this was big bucks.
So I pull up to the side of the road, and raise the hood. Moment of
silence. I'm shocked and I'm outraged! Oil all over the cam cover and
exhaust manifold. And I can see the reason too. Vacuum hose that came
disconnected, the one supplying vacuum/boost through a couple of
VCV's and such to distributor! That means I didn't get the pressure
retard I should. So any damage occured is 95% sure to be due to
excessive timing advance. The hose had signs of age, contributing
to it getting pulled off, among the VCV it was connected to dropped
hanging from it, no connected to the intake manifold as it should.
Desparate thoughts run through my mind, but after a minute or two
I decide to drive the remaining 10 miles to Toijala.
I had just gotten through the rush of exams, and would have a month
or so time to work on my car. I was planning on doing the intercooler
now, as well as TA40 lower control arms for negative camber to the
front. K&N filter too. And EGT meter. And original GT-T combination
meter if I could find one. Rust work too, if I could find a set
of fender flares to install at the same time. I WAS NOT PLANNING
ON SPENDING ALL MY MONEY IN AN ENGINE REBUILD!!!! ARRRRRRRRRGH!!!!
I mean, the last rebuild when my car was stolen was just 7500 miles/
a year ago (almost exactly)! And it was using NO oil yesterday!!!!
I take half an hour to recover from the shock slightly, and let
the engine cool down. Time to dig up the compression meter.
The results:
2 strokes 5 strokes >10 strokes, reading won't rise anymore
#1 7.3bar/107psi 8.9bar/131psi 9.4bar/138psi
#2 6.5bar/96psi 8.2bar/120psi 8.5bar/125psi
#3 7.4bar/108psi 8.5bar/125psi 9.2bar/135psi
#4 7.5bar/110psi 8.6bar/126psi 9.2bar/135psi
Overall, not bad. A month after the rebuild I had 8.2-8.5bar/121-125psi
in all cylinders. #2 remained slightly worse than the others, even
after several tests.
Next test: start the engine, remove oil filler cap. Uh uh...
lots of blowing, crankcase clearly getting pressurized, pulsing
airflow felt up to 5 inches above the filler hole. Definately not
normal. Oil looks normal, just getting blacker at 1600 miles after
last change, and it is still at the full mark.
Another test. What's the coolant looking? Nothing alarming, no oily film,
radiator full. No bubbles coming out with engine running. Oh, the temp
guage didn't move anywhere from normal at any poing of the trip.
So I'd say the cooling system is working as it should.
Then, look for the blue smoke from the exhaust. Arrrgh... car-sized
puffs, when I raised the revs from idle. No wonder with that
pressurized crankcase.
Then I take another look at the engine cover. How exactly did the
oil get where it now was? With the engine running, I start sqeezing
the piece of rubber hose connecting the intake pipes. A leak.
The hose had ruptured right next to the clamp. I didn't have any
55mm hose in my disposal, so I took another clamp and put it on the other
side of the rupture. As I noticed on my way back, this did the job
and boost got back up to previous figures, even slightly better -
hinging that this rupture has had some effect already for a few
months... There are no new noises coming from the engine. I did
get at least 10 small explosions in the exhaust on the way back,
though. The mixture was slightly leaner now, with this hose fixed,
at the figures I had earlier this year - 910mV. No knock, no hesitation.
No noticable oil loss within the 33miles back. But clouds of blue
smoke. I had less blue smoke when I REALLY had a broken piston after
that incident with the thieves last year.
So, what is the nature of the damage done? I'll be taking the car to
leakdown test tomorrow, if possible. Theories are welcome.
I haven't completely given up the hope yet, that a piston set may not
be necessary...
What do we learn from this? At least, that when you utilize the
engines potential at 95%, NOTHING may go wrong or it will be trouble...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 95 22:43:30 PDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser (by way of Brett Fraser )
Subject: the new exhaust on my 83 Celica..
At 11:33 AM 10/11/95 -0400, you wrote:
>I just want to know the low down. Was Santa good to you?
>
>-CULTURE
>
Ah ha .. glad you reminded me,forgot all about it almost ..
Hmm.. ok .. performance wise I do notice better low end .. not enough to make me
say "Omygod, this is what Ive been missing all my life" but its a decent
enuf boost
that I can justify the 225$. Noise wise .. as I had the catalytic removed, I
expected it to be loudish ... and wasnt overly surprised .. accelerating,
especially
hard, definately makes people look at you as you go down the street .. But
Ive heard
around that the Toy cat's are some of the most restrictive out there .. so I
didnt
really mind ..
Recommendations .. well .. Id definately say go for the exhaust, even if you
keep
the Cat .. what you might do though, is chop the cat for starters .. if you
find
it too loud .. just have em flange it back in .. my shop assured me that
would be
no probs if I wasnt happy .. I like it.
Brett
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Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 00:47:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Latest Update
Stroke is measured as piston travel and has nothing to do with the space
above the piston at top dead center (combustion chamber). If your over
bore is 0.5 mm, then you will have 0.25 mm of gasket exposed on the
cylinder side of the gasket, but not on the head side of the gasket.
Now, there are really two types of head gaskets, solid gaskets and
laminated gaskets. If you are using a solid metal gasket, then you
should radius and polish the lower edge of the gasket where it is exposed
to the cylinders. When you do this, just remove the corner and don't
touch the sealing surface of the gasket. Make the radius 1/4 to 1/3 the
thickness of the gasket. If you are using a laminated gasket, then it
will have material rolled over at the cylinder holes. This will already
have a gentle radius and with 0.25 mm of over-hang shouldn't cause
detination or burn up the gasket. You may be able to obtain a head gasket
from FelPro which is a popular brand of high quality gaskets.
As far as the thickness of the gasket, a very rough rule of thumb for
small engines like Toyotas is that 1.0 mm change in thickness is about a
1 point change in compression ratio. So if you choose a gasket that is
0.5 mm thicker than stock, and your compression ratio is 9.5:1, then your
new compression ratio will be something like 9.0:1. So you can probably
set your ignition timing slightly more advanced before pinging occurs.
\|/ ____ \|/
@~/ ,. \~@
/_( \__/ )_\
\__U_/
Craig
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Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 13:46:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: Displacement?
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Ok, apparently stroke is just the amount of piston travel, and does
not include the space above the piston in the combustion chamber.
Therefore an engine "displacement" is not equal to the volume of air
burned for an engine cycle, which I thought it was. I looked up the
7MGTE displacement and it's listed as 2954 cc, which is pretty close to
(bore/2)^2 * pi * stroke * number of cylinders, (83/2)^2 * pi * 90.9 *
6 (/1000) = 2951 cc. If you include the head combustion chamber volume,
you'll be over 3 liters of air burned per one complete engine cycle
(assuming 100% intake efficiency).
Anyway, then, maybe we can find my new compression ratio as follows:
if we have an 8.4:1 compression ratio with 90.9mm of travel, that means
that x * 8.4 = x + 90.9, x = 12.28, y = x + .8 = 13.08, y * r = y + 90.9,
r = (y + 90.9) / y = 7.95 : 1 compression ratio.
I'm making a simplifying assumption that the combustion chamber is
perfectly cylindrical, which is obviously not the case but hopefully
close enough. The formulas above assume that the height of the space in
the cylinder with the piston at top dead center is x. Then the height of
the space in the cylinder with the piston at bottom is x + 90.9. The
ratio of these two spaces is 8.4:1. Thus the formulas above. Now, when
I put in my 2.0 mm gasket, it is .8 mm thicker than the stock one.
Therefore the space above the piston at top dead center is x + .8 .
Since piston travel is the same, the ratio of those two spaces is 7.95:1,
i.e. the new compression ratio is 7.95:1.
Aaron B.
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Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 21:01:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: Toyota-Mods
Subject: wheel studs
Does anyone in the group have a source of long wheel studs for Toyota?
Info on this would be much appreciated.
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: me-mine-mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 1995 02:06:54 -0400 (EDT)
Name: Aly AbulKheir
Location: New Paltz,NY or Yorktown Hts, NY
Model: '85 MR2
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: K&N filtercharger, tokico illuminas,yokohama (avs,378,509)
Tornado air flow piece
Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
Future Mods: I am interested in making the car more fun than it already is
for the street and also for autocrossing. I have been looking
into the hks and trd stuff for a while now and have come to
different conclusions. One thing I want to discuss with other
owners is a basic hop up package and what results they have
had. This start is one I have planned:
powerflow or k&n fipk 5-7hp which one is truly better?
jacobs or hks ignition 3-5hp which one performs better?
hks,trust,5 Zigen exhaust6-10hp ditto.
trd header 3-5 hp best or is there better?
hks 256 and 264 cams 8-10hp ditto.
this cam arrangement was recommended to me by sarizer in NJ.
Formerly Toy Store East. These advertised hp ratings bring the car
to an advertised hp rating of approximately 145 hp. My main question is:
will these modifications give similar results as driving a stock
supercharged mr2? i.e. similar quarter mile and 0-60 times? I am not
expecting the same powerband characteristics as a supercharged model, i.e.
much more low end torque, but can I expect the same type of speed increase?
or more because of the 200 lb lighter weight of the 85 model in comparison
with a SuperCharged model. Also, don't forget that the gearing in the 85 is
supposedly lower than in the SC model.
Another question, how can I tell if my car has the 3.56:1 first
gear ratio or the 3.17:1 first gear ratio, was it simply by month of
manufacture? the car is an April '85.
What are people's thoughts on the stroker kit? is it worth the
price? I have a quoted price of 4500 installed. I have read the articles
in turbo from 91 and july 89. It gives more low end, but how does it act in
the higher revs? Also, the articles show the 5AGX stroker kit and they say
it "brings the motor to 2 liters". Was this a previous stroker kit? Because
the '93 hks catalog shows it as 1.711 liters.
I would like to discuss these ideas with anyone interested. I also
have planned to install trd progressive springs, sway bars, and bushings.
Any thoughts on those would be helpful as well.
Also questions regarding transmission durability.
Thank you,
Aly
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From: Gary Hong
To: terlau@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: wheel studs
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 95 3:56:17 PDT
There is a place in Santa Cruz that has 'em. I had to replace all 4 of mine
after I broke all three bolts on my rotor/hub assembly. I can give you
the # of the place I bought it from and maybe you can ask them if they ship.
The studs where something like $2/stud.
Gary
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From: RamziM2@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 1995 13:17:14 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: ramzi shakra
location: los angeles
model toyota mr2 86
engine: 4AGE
suspension mods: TRD Bushing set, Tokico 5 adjust shocks, Eibach
springs,Suspension techniques adjustable sway bars
Engine mods: HKS powerflo filter, Seibring dual tip exhuast (92 style)
future mods: 15x7 rims with 205/50 A-509- and better springs.
E-mail: ramzim2@aol.com
Hi everyone!
The car handles great, but the Eibach springs did not lower it at all. So
i'm looking to change to Jamex springs, or Tokico. I'd like to purchase the
TRD race springs but they don't sell them anymore. Also I guess they are too
stiff for street use.
I've autocrossed twice in the last 6 months at southern cal events.
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: 6.08 0-60mph with blue smoke...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 1995 22:44:50 +0200 (EET)
Ok, things were not quite as bad as it seemed at first look.
Leakdown test gave pretty good results, between 8-20%, #2 being
the worst as the compression test already revealed. Oil loss
is still not that much, everynthing seems to come out as blue smoke,
and that only happens when oil is warm AND I create a vacuum of
0.7bar/21inHg or more. That is, it occurs after engine braking and
some of the time at idle. No smoke after starting from cold.
So I have to agree with the professionals, my turbo oil seals are
shot. Theory: caused by the ruptured intake hose after turbo,
lots of air goes straight to atmosphere and the turbo overspeeds,
damaging its oil seals.
So, engine rebuild is NOT necessary. I think that I will replace
the CT20 I now have with a CT26. At the same time, I'll add the
intercooler. Changing the turbo would require different intake
piping anyway, as the compressor outlet is different, as well as
turbine outlet. But it will bolt on to my exhaust manifold.
After these mods, I may also need larger injectors, but that is not
quite certain yet. Hunt for the parts starts on Monday...
BTW, the BFG's and LSD really helped off-the-line acceleration,
during wheelsping (0-26mph) average acceleration is 0.73g's vs
0.51-0.54 on Dunlops/no LSD.
0-30mph comes in 1.96 seconds (was ~2.5)
0-50mph 4.36
0-60mph 6.08 (on 3rd)
0-80mph 10.23
1/4 mile 14.4-14.5@94-96mph
all numbers for 1337kg = 2 persons aboard, almost full tank
weather 993mbar, 11C , dry road. That would require slightly over
1% of weather correction (weather being worse than DIN standard
1013mbar, 15C), but that is left out in these figures.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 1995 07:39:35 -0600 (MDT)
From: Lance Heinrich
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: RamziM2@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
On Sat, 14 Oct 1995 RamziM2@aol.com wrote:
Hi there!!
> Hi everyone!
> The car handles great, but the Eibach springs did not lower it at all. So
Depends on what your after. Are you after handling or looks. Eibach
takes pride in getting the best handling possible out of your car.
Lowering too much usually greatly affects handling (not in a good way
necessarily) and unless you make a lot of other changes to the suspension
geometry, you are better off not getting too low. We have had a lot of
new guys show up at our autox events this year with really modified cars
which look great, but handle as bad as is possible. In fact, many of
these cars are downright unsafe in any kind of emergency scenario or at
speed.
Lance.
---------------------------------------------------------------
| Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
| lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
|
| 1991 MR2 Turbo
| Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 1995 17:23:39 -0400
From: Derek Motloch
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Derek Motloch
Location : London, Ontario Canada
Model : 1991 MR2 NA
Engine : 5SFE
Mods : Ram air kit, new short block, timing tweeks, etc.
email : jmotloch@mustang.uwo.ca
Derek.
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 08:59:56 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: Craig A Terlau
Cc: Toyota-Mods
Subject: Re: wheel studs
On Fri, 13 Oct 1995, Craig A Terlau wrote:
> Does anyone in the group have a source of long wheel studs for Toyota?
> Info on this would be much appreciated.
I have used Toyota Landcruiser studs in my 71 model Corolla - I think
they were around 1-1 1/2 cm longer.
Cheers,
Paul.
------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA.
Phone (+61 7 55 953 324) Fax (+61 7 55 953 320)
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 95 23:33 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cgrant@enterprise.ca (colin grant)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Colin Grant
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Model: 1987 Celica GTS
Engine: 3S-FE
Mods: Preformance exhaust with Dynomax muffler, Accel Starter Coil.
e-mail: cgrant@enterprise.ca
Future Mods: plan to shave the head to increase compression, upgrade to a
preformance suspension, and add a high flow air filter.
Colin
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From: peymaan@acs.bu.edu
Subject: Transmission
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 12:59:50 -0400 (EDT)
Hi everyone:
My automatic transmission in my Supra turbo finally gave out to the 500+
horsepower the HKS modified engine is feeding it. It now slips going from 1st
to second. I believe my first run down the 1/4 mile track ever is what finally
pushed it over the edge. I need help now from someone in doing something about
this. Should I rebuild the toyota one with the HKS upgrade? Should I change it
all together to a stick? Should I put in a heavy duty GM tranny like a 700R4
or the 200R Buick GNs use? Anyone have any ideas here? I like having an auto
and it makes for a faster car at the 1/4 mile track, but the car is now more
dedicated for "special use", since I will be mainly using another car for my
daily driving. Therefore, a 5 speed or 6 speed is OK now, and I know for
autocross or other racing besides "straight ahead" a stick is better. But I
want to do this once, I don't want to rip it apart again, and if anything will
allow me to use slicks/soft compound tires that would be great. If anyone has
any ideas or knows someone to talk to please let me know.
Thanks,
Dave T
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From: Gary Hong
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 95 12:12:04 PDT
>From: Aric Shen
>Date: Sat, 14 Oct 1995 11:07:57 -0700
This guy sure has alot to say eh? :)
Gary
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: MSD Ignitions
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 16:37:42 -0400 (EDT)
Greetings to all,
What are everyone's feelings on the MSD 6A ignition amplifier.
I am interested in it because of the price. It is only $150 compared to
$400 for a jacobs or $450 for an HKS. I would suppose that you would get
more for your money with the more expensive ones, but if anyone of you are
using the MSD ignition, I would like to know your thoughts on it.
Did it make a noticable difference?
How is the spark plug wear with it installed?
If MSD is good, is the 6A the best deal for my '85 MR2, or is another model
better?
Does the MSD 6A mess up anything with the stock rev limiter? ie, do I need
to go with the 6AL with the rev limiter?
The bottom line is, IS THE MSD IGNITION AMP ANY GOOD?
I have seen it used on the ITAC MR2 in the July '89 issue of Turbo.
Thank you,
Aly at abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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From: Gary Hong
To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: NOS
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 95 13:46:52 PDT
Does anyone have any experiences with a NOS kit? I am pondering the idea
of putting a 50hp NOS kit in my 82 Celica.
1. Can I fill up the NOS bottle locally when I run out?
2. Can I put in compress air in the bottle to get more air in the cylinders
so it can act like a pseudo turbo when I'm not in the NOS mood? :)
The NOS kit will bring up the GT to about ~146HP, which is just perfect for
my Celica. I just want a little more power available on tap - not like I'm
going to race this 22R equipped car or anything, but it would be nice to
be able to move out of someone's way at a decent rate when I need to. I plan
to keep the car for a while and am hoping it will last me over 200K. The
though of being stuck with this 96HP engine doesn't sit well with me so a
slight improvement, such as NOS would be reasonable. I've looked at the LC
Engineering catalog and they want 4k for the motor and 2k for the accessories.
No thanks, I'll pass.
Also, on the flip side, if I don't want to run NOS that week, I was thinking
about putting compress air in it. It'll be like running the engine under
boost for a few seconds. It must improve HP marginally. I expect a slight
increase with compress air to bring the total HP to a bit over 100HP. Is
that reasonable?
Any help or info would be appreciated.
Gary
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 22:26:31 -0700
To: Gary Hong ,
From: Speedline Racing
Subject: Re:
At 12:12 PM 10/16/95 PDT, Gary Hong wrote:
>>From: Aric Shen
>>Date: Sat, 14 Oct 1995 11:07:57 -0700
>
>This guy sure has alot to say eh? :)
>
>Gary
>
Sorry.. it kept telling me I had an error sending and to resend it.. so
thats what I kept doing..oops
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Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 00:35:39 -0500
To: aly abulkheir ,
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@mbnet.mb.ca (Fred Oberbuchner)
Subject: Re: MSD Ignitions
When I first started modding my car I went out and bought the el-cheapo MSD-4.
My opinion on it was that it didn't do much (as it won't unless you mess
with the air/fuel mixture to richen things up therefore needing more spark)
and it packed it in (died) about 1.5 years into the game. I opened it up
(being an EE) and was disgusted at the cheap techniques and components used
in this unit. To me it was all packaging with no meat behind it. Something a
second year student could build in a lab. Personally, I would say "you DO
get what you pay for".... go for something better. BUT FIRST... decide
how much you want to mod... you may be better off saving your peanuts and
waiting until you actuall NEED more ignition and then buying a complete
fuel computer system/distributorless system....
(now THAT should start some flaming!)
Regards,
Fredo
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 22:39:28 -0700
To: aly abulkheir ,
From: Speedline Racing
Subject: Re: MSD Ignitions
>The bottom line is, IS THE MSD IGNITION AMP ANY GOOD?
>
>I have seen it used on the ITAC MR2 in the July '89 issue of Turbo.
>
> Thank you,
> Aly at abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
I am using the Jacobs Ultra Coil and have never had any problems.. but the
ignition computer I got was bad.. I bought it off a friend as brand new but
I never worked for me.. I never got around to sending it back..
I've heard a lot of people say the MSD 6A worked well for them.. I've never
really heard anyone complain about it come to think of it.. but I heard the
6A is fairly old technology.. its been out for quite a while without any
modifications..
the HKS Twin Power, in my opinion, is very overpriced.. back in the days
when HKS Stages ended at 3, they use to tell you not to bother getting the
Twin Power.. they also use to say not to get the EVC unless you are going to
be doing serious racing.. but thats all changed.. from what I hear its the
same technology as a MSD 6A.. its probably just as old..
I've been hearing lots of good things about the Crane HI-6.. Dynamic
Autosports sells it for $160 + tax (if applicable) and shipping.. it comes
with a built in rev limiter and its pretty new stuff.. Peter Farrell used it
on a 1993 or 1994 RX-7 twin turbo and picked up like 50 or 60 horsepower..
but before you hit the ground in uncontrollable laughter, let me explain why
(as it was explained to me).. on the RX-7, at very high boost levels (15-18
psi), the intake charge begins to blow out the spark generated by the
ignition system, so at high boost, power begins to drop off sharply.. after
they installed a Crane HI-6, there was no drop in power and since the spark
was strong enough to ignite all the fuel mixture, they gained lots of
horsepower.. it was in an issue of Turbo Magazine farily recently..
supposedly they didn't get the same results with the MSD.. if you were gonna
pay $150 for a 6A, I'd pay the extra $10 for the HI-6 just for the rev limiter..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 00:40:51 -0500
To: Gary Hong ,
From: Fred_Oberbuchner@mbnet.mb.ca (Fred Oberbuchner)
Subject: Re: NOS
>2. Can I put in compress air in the bottle to get more air in the cylinders
> so it can act like a pseudo turbo when I'm not in the NOS mood? :)
Run the calculations...
displacement x RPM = liters/minute
I did this some time ago thinking I could use one of my SCUBA tanks as a
"turbo"... came out to something like 10-20 seconds of NORMAL running (no
boost)... and those tanks were 3000psi, 80 cubic feet...
When you look at NOS, I believe the effect is more chemical than physical...
Nitrous Oxide and fuel versus air (Nitrogen Oxygen etc) and fuel...
any chemical engineers out there?
just my senseless rambling!
Regards,
Fred
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From: Gary Hong
To: Fred_Oberbuchner@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: NOS
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 95 0:04:56 PDT
From: Fred Oberbuchner
>
>>2. Can I put in compress air in the bottle to get more air in the cylinders
>> so it can act like a pseudo turbo when I'm not in the NOS mood? :)
>Run the calculations...
>displacement x RPM = liters/minute
>
>I did this some time ago thinking I could use one of my SCUBA tanks as a
>"turbo"... came out to something like 10-20 seconds of NORMAL running (no
>boost)... and those tanks were 3000psi, 80 cubic feet...
That's good enough for passing ;). A nos bottle will only last a little
over a minute.
>When you look at NOS, I believe the effect is more chemical than physical...
>Nitrous Oxide and fuel versus air (Nitrogen Oxygen etc) and fuel...
Supposidly, the cooling effect will lower air temp by 60-70 degree. When
air is decompress, it'll come out cool as well, but I'm not sure if it'll
be as cool as NOS decompressing.
>just my senseless rambling!
And my senseless ideas.
Gary
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Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 00:48:01 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: SEMA Road Trip !
So far the bunch of guys from the Toyota Mods Listing is
Chris "Buy me drinkie" Myer
Allan "Botoboy" Chen
and myself Allen "Koji buys Chris drinkie" Kam
Gary Hong is unsure.
Our purpose on going to Sema and pow wowing is to discuss
the Toyota Mods FAQ (ya i've been slacking on working on it)
And update all the listings and proably doing some major
drinking !!!
Oppps i meant...errr Looking for kewl aftermarket parts for TM list =)
So far, it stands got us, and my friend Ted Koseki from the Rx-7 list,
and 3 of their dudes =)
Everyone is welcome to come !
Please feel free to email myself
koji@ohana.com or return this koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
If anyone feels there are any pressing matters to be discussed at our gathering
please let me know.
like things for the TM FAQ =)
The follow up post is the unfinished TM-FAQ by Chris,
-Koji
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| Allen T "Koji" Kam koji@ohana.com |
| |
| PARTY NAKED !!! - NO ONE KNOWS IN CYBERSPACE..... |
| Interact! Hawaii - The Online Party that NEVER STOPS !! |
| Telnet bbs.ohana.com / 204.182.45.3 |
| Modems (808) 593-8279 |
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
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Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 01:17:15 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: TM-FAQ: Questions Text to be Discussed at SEMA
The Terrible 3 (Chris,Botoboy and myself) Will be discussing
these 12 questions at SEMA.
I'll gladly take any feedback on this subject also.
Please email me koji@ohana.com for a prompter reply
This postting is of the unfinished FAQ to be finalized finally
after err a while >=)
Anyone feel free to jump in on these subjects in a reply >=)
-Koji
Subject: TM-FAQ:faq_questions.txt
1. What are the keys to making my Toyota quick/fast?
2. What Toyota Engines respond well to modification efforts?
3.a What can I do to get better performance out of my carb'd Toyota?
3.b What can I do to get better performance out of my injected Toyota?
3.c What can I do to get better performance out of my turbo/super-
charged Toyota?
4. How do I tune my engine for performance?
5.a What do I need to know about oiling systems in my non-turbo Toyota?
5.b What do I need to know about oiling systems in my turbocharged
Toyota?
6.a What is the best fuel to use?
6.b What is the best oil/lube to use?
7.a How can I get better handling out of my RWD Toyota?
7.b How can I get better handling out of my FWD Toyota?
8.a What is the right tire/wheel combination for spirited street
driving?
8.b What is the right tire/wheel combination for various types of racing?
9. How do I tune my car's handling characteristics?
10. What about brake performance modifications?
11.a What suppliers are the most helpful?
11.b What suppliers have the best prices?
12. What references are there besides this FAQ?
-Koji
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Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 01:38:55 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota Mods Book/Subscriber List
I'll try and update The Book and Subscriber List before we goto SEMA
I would like if possible for everyone to send me an email
email koji@ohana.com with your me/mines/mods/questions
so we can work on it while at SEMA or before.
Sorry for the lax in discussion and feed back, real life pressures
been building up.
Oh, sorry if possible on your email to me, please send me like
"where you get your parts" your local speed shop and who you go thorugh
there
i.e. Hypersports Racing
969 Cooke Street
Honolulu HI (zipcode)
808- 591-1477
Talk to Cary
Specialize in Aftermarket High performance parts, mainly mustang
but heavily into the street sceen in hawaii and all aftermarket parts.
Carry NOS,RS Akimoto,Neuspeed,Trust, 5Gzen etc etc.
something like that...
if possible.
Thanks
oh here's the old list, please add to it =)
Thanks again.
-Koji
Subject: toyota-mods book list
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ B O O K / M A G L i s t i n g ^^^
^^^ ------------------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
Updated: 23Nov93
Mailed : 12Apr94
The following list of printed material is provided for reference only.
The administrator of this list makes no endorsement to any parties.
Please send corrections/additions/comments to: toyota-mods-request
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Index:
1. Cars and Car Conversions [mag]
2. Grassroots Motorsports [mag]
3. Toyota Performance Handbook [book]
4. Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance [mag]
Listings:
1. Cars and Car Conversions
Magazine
Price: $5.25 CDN (1993)
Comments:
Covers a spectrum of topics: Formula 1
aerodynamics, do it yourself head porting mods,
timing, aftermarket EFI, etc. The Aug 93
article tests whether wrapping a header in
thermal insulating wrap makes a difference.
2. Grassroots Motorsports
P.O Box 5907
Daytona Beach, Florida 32118
Magazine
Price: $3.95 US, $4.95 CDN (1993)
Online compsurve address is:
72123,2625
Comments:
Interesting publication, main theme is
autocrossing. (Roger Smith)
3. Toyota Performance Handbook
Pat Braden
Motorbooks International Publishers & Wholesalers
1990
ISBN 0-87938-320-8
160pp, photos
18. LC Engineering [CA]
19. Lou Fuz Toyota [MO]
20. Marren Motor Sports [CT]
21. PAECO Import Parts [AL]
22. Price Toyota Newark [DE]
23. Russell Toyota [MD]
24. Select Sales [FL]
25. Suspension Spring Specialists [IN]
26. Suspension Technologies [CA]
27. System One [CA]
28. TA Performance [??]
29. TRS USA [CA]
30. Team Toysport America, Ltd. [CA]
31. Toy Store East [NJ]
32. Toy Store [NV]
33. Toyopet Service Centre Co. LTD. (TRD Japan) [Japan]
34. Toyota Racing Development (TRD U.S.A.) [CA]
35. Toyota service manuals [??]
Listings:
1. Autolook Co. Ltd of Tokyo
P.O. Box 7000-859
Redondo Beach, California 90277
(213)316-4679
Suppliers of:
Comments:
2. Brown's Toyota City
Glen Burnie, MD
(800)848-4451
Suppliers of:
Genuine Toyota parts
Comments:
... wholesale prices. They claim to carry anything
the dealer carries, catalog is $3. (Jim Chott)
3. CRE
RT. 122 Worcester Rd.
Barre, MA 01005
(508)355-2864
Suppliers of:
limited slip differentials
Comments:
They make limited slip differentials for the more
popular cars. They will even make one if you send them
an old diff (they only need a particular part of the
diff). Cost is $500 to $550, which is cheaper than an
LSD from TRD. (Roger Smith)
4. Carrera Racing Shocks
5412 New Peachtree Road
Atlanta, GA 30341
Tech Services: (404)451-8811
Orders: (800)RACE-4-IT
Fax: (404)451-8086
Suppliers of:
Shocks and springs.
Comments:
Quoted as saying that they "wrote the book on coil
overs". They are apparently pretty cheap and offer
good spring and weight ratios. Get their booklet!
5. Dick Hoss Racing
2901 N.W. 106th Avenue
Coral Springs, Fla 33065
Suppliers of:
HKS/other turbo kits
Comments:
6. Downey Offroad
Dept. FW
10001 S. Pioneer Blvd.
Sante Fe Springs, CA 90670
(310)949-9494
Suppliers of:
Toyota only 4WD specialists (also carry a fair amount
of engine parts)
Comments:
7. Eibach Springs
15311 Barranca
Irvine, CA 92718
(714)72-3700
Suppliers of:
progressive rate springs, etc.
Comments:
8. Electromotive Inc.
14004-J Willard Road
Chantilly, VA 22021
(703)378-2444
(800)843-3889
Suppliers of:
Many accessories for ignition/fuel management systems,
including air/fuel sensors, exhaust gas sensors, etc.
Comments:
A price list and full color brochures are available
on all their products. I was confused a little while
back thinking that ElectrOmotive and ElectrAmotive
were the same, but they're not. ElectrAmotive is to
Nissan what TRD is to Toyota. ElectrAmotive developed
Nissan's GTP/GTO/GTU cars... (Roger Smith)
9. Energy Suspension
960 Calle Amanecer
San Clemente, CA 92672
Tel: (714)361-3935
Fax: (714)361-3940
Suppliers of:
polyurethane suspension components
(rubber replacements)
Comments:
contact: Dale
Call the above number, and they'll get you in touch
with a local distributor in your area. They're REALLY
helpful. They sent me a nice color brochure describing
their wares ... (Clark Wallace)
10. HKS Performance Products
20312 Gramercy Place
Torrance, CA 90501
Tel: (310)328-8100
Fax: (310)618-6911
Suppliers of:
Engine/drivetrain/suspension products for Toyotas/etc.
Comments:
The catalog is interesting and describes expected BHP
for various vehicles at various modification stages
but does not provide a lot of applications help.
(costs ~$8 US)
11. IFG Turbo Systems Inc.
15740 El Prado Rd.
Chino, CA 91710
Tel: (909)597-4110
Fax: (909)597-7183
Suppliers of:
Comments:
They have a kit for a Honda civic/crx si that pushes
it from 125 BHP to 275 BHP for $1975 US.
12. IMC
5455 N.W. 72nd Avenue
Miami, Fla 33166
(800)321-3201
(407)887-3347
Suppliers of:
FOHA spoilers
Comments:
13. Ian Monroe & Co.
2831 Honolulu Avenue
Verdugo City, California 91046
(818)957-3750
Suppliers of:
Comments:
14. Installations Unlimited
2920 W. Sepulveda Boulevard
Torrance, California 90505
Suppliers of:
speake cheap and offer
good spring and weight ratios. Get their booklet!
5. Dick Hoss Racing
2901 N.W. 106th Avenue
Coral Springs, Fla 33065
Suppliers of:
HKS/other turbo kits
Comments:
6. Downey Offroad
Dept. FW
10001 S. Pioneer Blvd.
Sante Fe Springs, CA 90670
(310)949-9494
Suppliers of:
Toyota only 4WD specialists (also carry a fair amount
of engine parts)
Comments:
7. Eibach Springs
15311 Barranca
Irvine, CA 92718
(714)72-3700
Suppliers of:
progressive rate springs, etc.
Comments:
8. Electromotive Inc.
14004-J Willard Road
Chantilly, VA 22021
(703)378-2444
(800)843-3889
Suppliers of:
Many accessories for ignition/fuel management systems,
including air/fuel sensors, exhaust gas sensors, etc.
Comments:
A price list and full color brochures are available
on all their products. I was confused a little while
back thinking that ElectrOmotive and ElectrAmotive
were the same, but they're not. ElectrAmotive is to
Nissan what TRD is to Toyota. ElectrAmotive developed
Nissan's GTP/GTO/GTU cars... (Roger Smith)
9. Energy Suspension
960 Calle Amanecer
San Clemente, CA 92672
Tel: (714)361-3935
Fax: (714)361-3940
Suppliers of:
polyurethane suspension components
(rubber replacements)
Comments:
contact: Dale
Call the above number, and they'll get you in touch
with a local distributor in your area. They're REALLY
helpful. They sent me a nice color brochure describing
their wares ... (Clark Wallace)
10. HKS Performance Products
20312 Gramercy Place
Torrance, CA 90501
Tel: (310)328-8100
Fax: (310)618-6911
Suppliers of:
Engine/drivetrain/suspension products for Toyotas/etc.
Comments:
The catalog is interesting and describes expected BHP
for various vehicles at various modification stages
but does not provide a lot of applications help.
(costs ~$8 US)
11. IFG Turbo Systems Inc.
15740 El Prado Rd.
Chino, CA 91710
Tel: (909)597-4110
Fax: (909)597-7183
Suppliers of:
Comments:
They have a kit for a Honda civic/crx si that pushes
it from 125 BHP to 275 BHP for $1975 US.
12. IMC
5455 N.W. 72nd Avenue
Miami, Fla 33166
(800)321-3201
(407)887-3347
Suppliers of:
FOHA spoilers
Comments:
13. Ian Monroe & Co.
2831 Honolulu Avenue
Verdugo City, California 91046
(818)957-3750
Suppliers of:
Comments:
14. Installations Unlimited
2920 W. Sepulveda Boulevard
Torrance, California 90505
Suppliers of:
speakers
Comments:
1984 Supra speakers:
JVC CS300 (front)
Kenwood KFC 120 (rear)
15. K&N Engineering
P.O. Box 1329
Riverside, CA 92502
(909)684-9762
Suppliers of:
K&N air filters
Comments:
Call to find local distributors. (Phillip Dang got
best price from Direct Performance (415)752-6018.)
16. KMA Racing
1250 N. King Street
Honolulu, HI 96817
(808)841-2747
Suppliers of:
Stuff from Japan (I.E. Sprinter tail Lights for the
Corolla GTS's and GEB Adjustable Universal Strut
Tower Bars for ANY Car...)
Comments:
contact: Scott Kanemura (or Kevin Yamasaki)
Scott has worked for both TRD and HKS.
Mention you know Allen (Koji) Kam w/ the red Corolla!
17. Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th East
Palmdale, CA 93550
(805)272-1147
Suppliers of:
Bellhousing, transmission, and drive shaft adapters.
Comments:
They can provide an adapter plate for mounting the
bellhousing of a VW/Porsche gear box to a 3S-GTE
block. They also do custom applications. (Roger)
18. LC Engineering
2978 First Street, Unit G
La Verne, CA 91750-5672
(800)255-0624
(714)596-5494,5 <--two numbers
Suppliers of:
Fantastic source for 2xRx engine ideas.
Comments:
Their newest catalog will be out end Sept '93
and costs $5 US.
19. Lou Fuz Toyota
10725 Manchester Road
St. Louis, MO 63122
Tel: (800)325-9581
Fax: (314)966-2353
Suppliers of:
Genuine Toyota parts.
TRD and HKS parts.
Comments:
prices: 15% off list (standard, but will work w/ you)
Somebody said these guys sell TRD cheaper than TRD?!?!
(Fred O.) Looks like 10% off TRD list. (Tom Julien)
20. Marren Motor Sports
412 Roosevelt Dr.
Derby, CT 06418
Tel: (203)732-4565
Fax: (203)734-2629
Suppliers of:
larger injectors, injector balancing, etc.
Comments:
"Get the Right Injectors"
21. PAECO Import Parts
2400 Mountain Drive
Birmingham, AL 35226
(800)326-6401 - Orders
(205)823-7278 - Technical Info
Suppliers of:
Cams, valvesprings, flywheels
Comments:
Free catalogs -- $5.00 if outside USA (chargeable via
credit card) (Roger Smith)
22. Price Toyota Newark
1344 Marrows Road
Newark, DE 19711
(800)537-4510
Suppliers of:
Genuine Toyota parts
Comments:
contact: Joe
prices: 20% off list
23. Russell Toyota
6700 Baltimore National Pike
Baltimore, MD 21228
(800)638-8401
Suppliers of:
Genuine Toyota parts
Comments:
prices: 10-30% off list
24. Select Sales
5411 N.W. 72 Avenue
Miami, FL 33166
(305)888-2828
Suppliers of:
Complete race stuff for Toyotas. Including "Big Valve"
heads for the 4AGE.
Comments:
Apparently also a source of TRD catalogs.
25. Suspension Spring Specialists
P.O. Box 145
Bremen, IN 46506
Tel: (800)323-7419 (USA & Canada)
Fax: (219)546-4725
Suppliers of:
They advertise their "Blue Coil" springs.
Comments:
They aren't very knowledgeable about Toyotas, nor
do they have "Toy-specific" springs, but if you
know what rate/height you need, they they might
have something that'll work. Also, they do offer
custom springs. They allow Visa and MC. (Koji)
26. Suspension Technologies
1853 Belcroft Ave.
S. El Monte, CA 91733
(909)465-1020
Suppliers of:
Springs and other suspension parts.
Comments:
I have their springs in my car. GREAT!
But then all I can compare to are the factory
ones. (Fred Oberbuchner)
27. System One
6080 Leonard Noell Dr.
Turare, CA 93274
(209)687-1955
Suppliers of:
Performance oil filters
Comments:
28. TA Performance
(201)773-4200
Suppliers of:
TRUST & other performance parts
Comments:
29. TRS USA
7901 Ethel Ave.
N. Hollywood, CA 91605
Tel: (818)765-5542
Fax: (818)764-1051
Suppliers of:
Corolla & Starlet parts
Comments:
-4AG,3-4-5K Parts, TRS Coilover Kits, TRD Hard
Bushings, European Body Parts, LSD & 5.1,5.38 Gears,
TRD Springs & Shocks, Euro Headers & Exhaust,
TRS Metallic Clutch Disc, 6x14 Aluminium Wheels,
and T50 & K50 C-R Gear sets. (Taken from the back
of the Nov/Dec edition of GrassRoots Motorsports by
Roger Smith)
30. Team Toysport America, Ltd.
1547 W. El Segundo Blvd.
Gardena, CA 90249
Tel: (213)755-1177
Fax: (213)755-1176
Suppliers of:
"Turbo & twin cam specialists"
- sports tuning - service - fabrication -
Comments:
They seem to carry a wide variety of manufacturers.
31. Toy Store East
453 Van Houten Avenue
Passaic, New Jersey 07055
(201)473-0824
Suppliers of:
Various performance and cosmetic parts for Toyotas.
Comments:
Send a postcard w/ name and address for free catalog.
32. Toy Store
3230 Polaris #14
Las Vegas, NV 89102
Tel: (702)251-9923
Fax: (702)251-5935
Suppliers of:
Various performance and cosmetic parts for Toyotas.
Comments:
Get a copy of their catalog.
33. Toyopet Service Centre Co. LTD. (TRD Japan)
800 Morooka-machi
Kohoku-ku, Yokohama 222
Japan
Tel: 045-543-5631
Fax: 045-543-2788
Suppliers of:
Comments:
34. Toyota Racing Development (TRD U.S.A.)
18240 S. Western Ave.
Gardena, CA 90248
Tel: (310)532-1232
Fax: (310)532-3973
Suppliers of:
Pretty much everything anyone could need for Toyotas.
Comments:
Get a catalog ... it has much useful application
information and explanations. (costs ~$5 US)
35. Toyota service manuals
(TSD)
(800)622-2033
Suppliers of:
Toyota service manuals
Comments:
Subject: toyota-mods subscriber list
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ S U B S C R I B E R S ^^^
^^^ --------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
Updated: 12Apr94
Mailed : 12Apr94
The following is a list of subscribers to the Toyota-Mods mailing list:
Please send corrections/additions/comments to: toyota-mods-request
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Engine suffix codes are
C: Carb(s)
E: EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection)
F: Multi-valve
G: DOHC (Dual OverHead Cam)
R: Air Injected
S: Supercharger
T: Turbocharger(s)
U: Emission Control
Mods codes are
A: Audio
B: Body
D: Drivetrain
E: Engine
L: eLectrical
S: Suspension
T: Turbo upgrade
X: eXhaust
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------
Name Location Model Engine Mods email
ABDELSTX
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------
***** CAMRY *****
Errol Young Somerset, NJ 90 Camry DX 3S-FE egy@cc.bellcore.
com
Louis Do Redondo Beach, CA 87 Camry 3S-FE S do@etdesg.trw.co
m
***** CARINA *****
Matti Kalalahti Tampere, Finland 82 Carina GT-TR 3T-GTE DE S X k124476@ee.tut.f
i
***** CELICA *****
Roy Mongiovi Atlanta, GA 92 Celica GTS 5S-FE roy@lorien.gatec
h.edu
Augustine Chin Columbus, OH 90 Celica GT ??? achin@magnus.acs
.ohio-state.edu
Wayne Graves Orinda, CA 88 Celica Turbo Altrac 3S-GTE E S WRGraves@riem.co
m
Phillip Dang San Fran., CA 87 Celica ST 3S-FE pdang@ctp.org
Wayne Graves Orinda, CA 86 Celica GTS 3S-GE WRGraves@riem.co
m
Dirk Sieber Vancouver, BC, Canada 86 Celica GTS 3S-GE dsieber@unixg.ub
c.ca
Douglas Pike Halifax, NS, Canada 85 Celica GT 22R-E E S gen5157@husky1.s
tmarys.ca
Aaron Lung San Jose, CA 84 Celica GT Hatchback 22R-E lung@san-jose.at
e.slb.com
John R. Daker Lancaster, CA 84 Celica GTS 22R-E X jrd@po.cwru.edu
Tony Laanterman Corvallis, OR 83 Celica ST Coupe 22R (C) B lantera@csos.ors
t.edu (aka Joe Woodsprite)
Brian Simmers SFU, BC, Canada 83 Celica GT 22R-E A simmers@sfu.ca (
temp unsubscribed)
Richard Asano Sunnyvale, CA 83 Celica GT 22R-E asano@rambus.com
Gary Hong Santa Cruz, CA 82 Celica GT 22R (C) AB garyh@sco.com
Chris Myer Melbourne, FL 81 Celica GT 20R (C) E S cmyer@su102a.ess
.harris.com
Benjamin Tan Jurong, Singapore 80 Celica 1.6ST 2T-B (C) LS X btptan@solomon.t
echnet.sg
Clark Wallace Rancho Palos Verdes, CA 78 Celica GT 20R (C) E S SAVE@cpva.saic.c
om
Andrew Lagden Canterbury, England 78 Celica 2000ST 18R-G DELS X aml2@ukc.ac.uk
Murray Chapman Brisbane, Australia 77 RA-28 Celica 18R-GU E S X muzzle@cs.uq.oz.
au
Richard Asano Sunnyvale, CA 76 Celica GT 20R (C) S asano@rambus.com
Tom Julien Orlando, FL 74 Celica GT 18R-C A E S X tomj@orl.mmc.com
Gord Law Waterloo, ON, Canada 74 Celica 18R-C law@physics.wats
tar.uwaterloo.ca
***** COROLLA *****
Fred Oberbuchner Winnipeg, MB, Canada 88 Corolla GTS 4A-GE E S X fjo-toymod%majik
thise@wpg.paramax.com
Simon Soong Miami, FL 88 Corolla GTS 4A-GE ssoong@umiami.ir
.miami.edu
Derek Deeter Beaverton, OR 87 Corolla 4dr 4A-G (C) derekd@wv.mentor
g.com
Louis Do Redondo Beach, CA 87 Corolla 4A-LC S do@etdesg.trw.co
m
Stephen Ferguson Kingston, ON, Canada 87 Corolla GTS 4A-GE fergusos@jeff-la
b.QueensU.CA
Allan Chen Mountain View, CA 87 Corolla GTS 4A-GE E S X allanc@sgi.com
Andrew Young Somerset, NJ 84 Corolla GTS 4A-GE baram@sdolan5.at
tmail.com
Jari Porhio Valkeakoski, Finland 83 Corolla DX 2dr 4K eppu@cc.tut.fi
John Lupien Wrentham, MA 81 Corolla Wagon 3T-C lupienj@wal.hp.c
om
Koji T. Kam Kailua, Hawaii 80 Trueno SR-5 Sp Coupe 3T-C DE S X tkoseki@uhunix.u
hcc.HAWAII.edu
2T-G DE S X tkoseki@uhunix.u
hcc.HAWAII.edu
Mike Graham Denton, TX 76 Corolla Wagon 2T-C graham@cc1.unt.e
du
***** MR2 *****
James Treleaven Ottawa, ON, Canada 93 MR2 Turbo (prospect) 3S-GTE jtreleaven@prior
.com
Dan Sullivan Orlando, FL 91 MR2 Turbo 3S-GTE dan-sullivan@orl
.mmc.com
Raymond Bahr Westood, MA 91 MR2 Turbo 3S-GTE S X bahrr@pictel.com
Mark Miller Durham, NC 89 MR2 4A-GE miller@dg-rtp.dg
.com
Carl Johnson Detroit, MI 89 MR2 4A-GE cjohnson@mail.ms
en.com
Ralph Brown Haverhill, MA 89 MR2 Supercharged 4A-GZE (S) S rbrown@BBN.COM
Matt Ledbetter Flagstaff, AZ 88 MR2 Supercharged 4A-GZE (S) X mjl@nauvax.ucc.n
au.edu
Steven Jackson Cambridge, MA 88 MR2 Supercharged 4A-GZE (S) steven_jackson.l
otus@crd.lotus.com
Fred Dalrymple Boston, MA 87 MR2 4A-GE S fred@osf.org
Jeff Burney Burke, VA 86 MR2 4A-GE E S X jburney@nodc.noa
a.gov
Darin Hamilton Calgary, AL, Canada 86 MR2 4A-GE AB S drhamilt@acs.uca
lgary.ca
Lee Groves Tucson, AZ 85 MR2 4A-GE groves@noao.edu
Charles Nguyen Chicago, IL 85 MR2 4A-GE cnguyen@next3.co
rp.mot.com
Philip Robar Los Altos, CA 85 MR2 4A-GE E S X philr@eng.sun.co
m
Dan Ghidali Raleigh, NC 85 MR2 4A-GE ELS X deghidal@unity.n
csu.edu
***** STARLET *****
Roger Smith Toronto, ON, Canada 83 Starlet 4A-GE (C) BDE S X roger@sickkids.o
n.ca (temp unsubscribed)
***** SUPRA *****
Tom Drynda London, England 90 Supra 3.0i 7M-GE tad@ingres.com
Aaron Buhr Gainesville, FL 90 Supra Turbo 7M-GTE abuhr@eng.ufl.ed
u
Ehab Aljandali San Jose, CA 89 Supra Turbo 7M-GTE E STX ehab@cisco.com
Michael Hemy Pittsburgh, PA 89 Supra Turbo 7M-GTE Michael_Hemy@n2.
sp.cs.cmu.edu
Brian Goble Seattle, WA 88 Supra Turbo 7M-GTE X goble@ee.washing
ton.edu
Lorne Silkes St. Louis, MO 88 Supra Turbo 7M-GTE lrs1@cec.wustl.e
du
Kevin Bento New Paltz, NY 88 Supra Turbo 7M-GTE kbento@vnet.ibm.
com
Juergen Rarey Oldenburg, Germany 87 Supra 3.0i 7M-GE JR@tech.chem.uni
-oldenburg.de
Hilmi Nizar Al-Kamhawi Columbus, OH 87 Supra 7M-GE alkamhaw@valhall
a.cs.wright.edu
Dan Ghidali Raleigh, NC 87 Supra 7M-GTE X deghidal@unity.n
csu.edu
Daniel I. Applebaum Incline Village, NV 86 Celica Supra 5M-GE AB LS danapple@vicor.c
om
Grant Montgomery Knoxville, TN 85 Celica Supra 5M-GE A WA24%UTMARTN.BIT
NET@uga.cc.uga.edu
Ike Stoddard Cambridge, MA 84 Celica Supra 5M-GE stoddard@draper.
com
Tom Julien Orlando, FL 84 Celica Supra (S) 5M-GE tomj@orl.mmc.com
John Deame Orlando, FL 84 Celica Supra (S) 5M-GE john-deame@orl.m
mc.com
Eric McKinney Austin, TX 83 Celica Supra 5M-GE lizardo@tic.com
Jon Hacker Red Bank, NJ 82 Celica Supra GTS 5M-GE LS hacker@patagonia
.bellcore.com
***** TERCEL *****
Andrew Silver Montreal, PQ, Canada 84 Tercel SR5 3A lmcansi@lmc.eric
sson.se (temp unsubscribed)
***** TRUCK (2wd) *****
Fred Oberbuchner Winnipeg, MB, Canada 92 4x2 P/U 22R-E S fjo-toymod%majik
thise@wpg.paramax.com
Daniel I. Applebaum Incline Village, NV 92 4x2 P/U 22R-E B danapple@vicor.c
om
Tom Julien Orlando, FL 76 4x2 Hilux Longbed 20R (C) A E X tomj@orl.mmc.com
***** TRUCK (4wd) *****
Gregory March Croton-on-Hudson, NY 94 4Runner 3V-ZE march@tudor.com
Carl Johnson Detroit, MI 92 4x4 SR5 P/U 3V-ZE cjohnson@mail.ms
en.com
Terry Egan Cupertino, CA 92 Land Cruiser 3F-E B E egan_t@measurex.
com
Tom Marecek Moscow, Idaho 92 4x4 XtraCab SR5 P/U 3V-ZE marec911@uidaho.
edu
Richard Asano Sunnyvale, CA 92 4x4 SR5 P/U 3V-ZE asano@rambus.com
Edward Wang San Jose, CA 91 4x4 P/U 3V-ZE S edwang@lsil.com
David Snyder Springfield, OH 90 4Runner 22R-E dsnyder@falcon.a
amrl.wpafb.af.mil
Mike Graham Denton, TX 88 4Runner 22R-E graham@cc1.unt.e
du
Gerald Oberbuchner Winnipeg, MB, Canada 87 4x4 P/U 22R (C) c/o fjo-toymod%m
ajikthise@wpg.paramax.com
Steve Chaffee Fort Collins, CO 87 4x4 Minivan 4Y-CE steve@liatris.cf
nr.colostate.edu
Jim Chott Gilbert, AZ 85 4x4 XtraCab SR5 P/U 22R-E BD S rzaa80@email.sps
.mot.com
John Red-Horse Albuquerque, NM 85 4x4 P/U 22R-E jrredho@universe
.digex.net
John Red-Horse Albuquerque, NM 85 4Runner 22R-E jrredho@universe
.digex.net (! duplicate)
Bruce Rioux Oxford, MA 84 4Runner 22R (C) S brucer@hw.stratu
s.com
Chris Myer Melbourne, FL 82 4x4 P/U 22R (C) E cmyer@su102a.ess
.harris.com
***** OTHER *****
Gary Hong Santa Cruz, CA 89 BMW M3 E30 M3 A E S garyh@sco.com
Clark Wallace Rancho Palos Verdes, CA 89 Porsche 944s2 3.0L SAVE@cpva.saic.c
om
Errol Young Somerset, NJ 87 Acura Integra RS ??? S X egy@cc.bellcore.
com
Louis Do Redondo Beach, CA 86 Isuzu Impulse G200Z 2.0L (E) S X do@etdesg.trw.co
m
Louis Do Redondo Beach, CA 78 IHC Scout II 345CI S X do@etdesg.trw.co
m
Craig Pugsley Melbourne, Australia ?? Mazda R100 ??? c.pugsley@trl.oz
.au
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------
If you see "???" beside your entry, please supply the missing
information so we can update your entry in the list!
I have no information for the following subscribers:
"We did it! *Everyone* has supplied most info!" :)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Okelo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 12:27:54 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: NOS
In a message dated 95-10-17 01:54:05 EDT, you write:
>When you look at NOS, I believe the effect is more chemical than physical...
>Nitrous Oxide and fuel versus air (Nitrogen Oxygen etc) and fuel...
yeah, it is more chemical than physical. when you have more fuel and oxygen
available, more horsepower can be made; just like turning up the boost and
adding more fuel. basically, the N2O (dinitrogen monoxide--nitrous oxide)
allows for more oxygen to attach to fuel (C8H18), thereby increasing the
combustion value. that's why a nitrous kit has a jet that sprays both N2O
and gasoline into the intake plenum.
-corey
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Gary Hong
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: SEMA Road Trip !
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 95 10:44:30 PDT
From: Allen T Koji Kam
>
>So far the bunch of guys from the Toyota Mods Listing is
>
>Chris "Buy me drinkie" Myer
>Allan "Botoboy" Chen
>and myself Allen "Koji buys Chris drinkie" Kam
>
>Gary Hong is unsure.
I'll make up my mind by Thursday :). Damn, if it was only on the weekends.
Gary
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 14:03:12 -0400
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re:mkII tires/wheels
Kent-
Yes, I believe the '93's rear wheels should be 225/50-15 not 205/50-15.
I noticed that in the FAQ too, but I never really brought it up. It kind of
makes me wonder, where did they come up with "205?" As far as your question
about what this change would do on your 91, I'm not too sure. I just wanted to
mention that I noticed the FAQ problem, too. I know my car has 225's in the
back and I don't see why it would be any different from 93 since that's when
they made the change.
--
+----------+--------------+ +------------------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |_______|Personal Mail:bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.2k +----------------------------------+
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 +--------+ If you want to race, please race
+--------------------------------+ me in a REAL car... I'm bored of Mustangs!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 11:16:23 -0700
To: Gary Hong , koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: SEMA Road Trip !
On Oct 17, 10:44am, Gary Hong wrote:
> Subject: Re: SEMA Road Trip !
> From: Allen T Koji Kam
> >
> >So far the bunch of guys from the Toyota Mods Listing is
> >
> >Chris "Buy me drinkie" Myer
> >Allan "Botoboy" Chen
> >and myself Allen "Koji buys Chris drinkie" Kam
You sure not Allen "I rub your leg" Kam
> >Gary Hong is unsure.
>
> I'll make up my mind by Thursday :). Damn, if it was only on the weekends.
Yeah, let me know... we could get like some type of discount tickets,
friends fly free on SouthWest.
Latas,
Allan
--
*******************************************************************************
Allan Chen A peak disturbs the horizon. The wave builds as it
Silicon Graphics Inc. slowly crumbles. A lone man races the crest hoping
Mountain View, CA for the moment where wave, board, and rider becomes
allanc@sgi.com one... Only a surfer knows the feeling.
*******************************************************************************
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Gary Hong
To: allanc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: SEMA Road Trip !
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 95 14:37:11 PDT
I'll let you know ASAP.. by thur maybe?
Gary
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 20:54:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Dealership Praise (long)
On Thu, 12 Oct 1995, Burns, James B. wrote:
> I'd like to put in a good word for the dealership I bought my MR2 from, R&H
> Motorcars in Reisterstown, MD (near Baltimore). I know that Consumer
> Reports rated Toyota dealers last in customer satisfaction, but I've been
> happy with this one. They also sell Mercedes, so maybe that has something
> to do with it.
>
> The buying experience was one of the least painful I've experienced, and the
> salesman, Dave Spencer, treated me very well. I told them to remove the
> pinstripes on the car and to not put any dealer advertising on the car. No
> problem. I also got him to throw in some floormats, even though I didn't
> think of it until after I had signed the deal. (BTW, why don't new cars
> come with floormats as standard equipment since everyone wants them anyway?)
Very good question...so they can make the base price look lower in ads?
> Unfortunately, the car was not perfect. The car was a leftover '94, and it
> looked like someone went psycho with an electric buffer because the paint
> was burned off along some of the sharp edges. But they cheerfully had
those areas repainted.
Funny, I bought a "new" '94 T from Germain Toyota in Columbus, OH this
past March, and it, too, had paint problems. There were a few little
chips in the hood from rocks flipping up I imagine and swirl marks on the
finish everywhere as if they went mad with the buffer like you said.
> areas repainted. There were some little plastic trim pieces behind the
> doors which were slightly rippled. I expected them to try to glue them
> down, but instead they replaced the entire interior panels.
I have noticed the SAME ripples in the those rubber door seals your
talking about just recently on my passenger side door. I get such bad
service from my dealer I don't know what to do about stuff like that
except let you guys know they are BAD (just like Consumer Reports says!)
> So even though it has been several months since I bought the car, they are
> going to fix the front bumper and repaint the hood, and they didn't give me
> a hard time about it.
I first had my car taken in this summer to get the paint chips taken care
of and they used touch up paint that made it look worse than with the
chips! Then, I tried to schedule an appointment to have it redone
correctly and they tell me that they need to get an estimate done before
they do the work. Estimate for what? I'm not paying!!
> These problems SHOULD be fixed by them, since it is a new car and I didn't
> cause any of the problems, so this type of service should be expected.
Exactly!! I bought mine new, too. I was the dealer (Germain)'s company
car before I bought it (for a decent discount). I shouldn't get this
kind of treatment for what I didn't do to the car!
> I think most other dealers wouldn't have been so happy to correct them. So
Thanks for bringing that up, Brad, I need to blow off some steam on my
dealership!
+----------+--------------+ +---------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________|I'll bet that fire and the wheel |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.5k |were invented on the same day. |
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 |That night, they burned the wheel|
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| |
+------------------------------------------+---------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 21:04:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: synthetic oils
On Thu, 12 Oct 1995, Mark Dadgar wrote:
>
> Brad Burnes wrote:
> > I don't know about the factory, but I highly recommend it in a turbo
> > engine. Conventional (dead dinosaur) oil will cook and form a
> > varnish if it gets too hot (like on your turbine bearings if you
> > don't cool the turbo sufficiently after running it hard). Synthetic
> > oils are much less likely to cook off like that.
> >
>
> Excellent advice.
>
> > I like Mobile 1 because it is a good oil, is easy to find, comes in
> > 10W-30 weight, and isn't too expensive (I paid $3.60 a quart at the
> > local auto parts store). I think that some others like RedLine and
> > Spectrum may be a bit better, but they cost twice as much.
> >
>
> According to an oil study floating around the Net, Mobil 1 has the lowest
> (ie 0%) ash content and one of the lowest prices. The oils that scored
> higher in flow ability at cold temperatures and viscosity at higher
> temperatures were also much more expensive (for example, Redline).
>
> I have a copy of the study, if anyone is interested.
>
> > The only thing I'm not sure of is how often I need to change my oil
> > now. I was doing every 2500 miles with the conventional oil, but I
> > think that I can safely go 5000 with the synthetic. Anyone else have
> > an opinion on this? This will also help offset the higher oil cost.
> >
>
> Redline says that you can up your oil-change interval to as high as 18K miles.
>
> I've changed mine from 3K miles to 5K miles. Seems safer. I've been
> leaving the filter in for that interval, but I'm thinking of changing the
> filter at 2.5K and the oil at 5K.
>
> Comments?
>
> - Mark
> ---
> Mark Dadgar | "If English was good enough for Jesus
> Network/Systems Admin. | Christ, then it's good enough for me."
> NeXT Computer, Inc. | - Arkansas congressman to Joint
> Mark_Dadgar@NeXT.COM | National Committee on Language
>
Thanks for the responce, Mark, you help out a lot more people than you
think when you answer someone with a good question like that. I'm going
to stop using "dead dinosaur" oil myself and switch to Mobil 1. I was
aware of the varnish problem and since I don't have a turbo timer for
cooling "sufficiently" yet, so I'll definitely make the switch.
+----------+--------------+ +---------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________|I'll bet that fire and the wheel |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.5k |were invented on the same day. |
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 |That night, they burned the wheel|
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| |
+------------------------------------------+---------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 21:16:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cooling Turbo-Concerned
>
> Does this "hard" driving include commuter driving conditions such as to and
> from work/grocery store (mild), while on interstate (moderate), or primarily
> after driving with extensive, hard engagement of turbo (hard)? I know this
> can be very subjective depending on who you ask, but I'm not one to push my
> turbo really "hard" every time I get in the car to go some where.
>
> If you do need to cool the car down after various levels of driving, how much
> cool-down time (minutes) do you recommend based on various intensities?
> SUGGESTIONS WELCOME! Thanks.
> Stephanie
>
> Mild _______ min?
> Moderate ___ min?
> Hard _______ min?
>
Stephanie,
I asked the same question about a month ago. To answer you
question as quickly as possible: Mild-30 seconds, Moderate-2 minutes,
Hard-3 to 5 minutes depending on whether its stunt driving or whatever.
The real solution is to get a turbo timer like I'm in the works of doing
now.
+----------+--------------+ +---------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________|I'll bet that fire and the wheel |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.5k |were invented on the same day. |
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 |That night, they burned the wheel|
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| |
+------------------------------------------+---------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 21:33:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Cooling Turbo-Concerned
On Thu, 12 Oct 1995, Burns, James B. wrote:
> One of these days I'll invest in a turbo timer. Any recommendations on
> which one? HKS, Levoc, other?
>
> Brad
>
Dave T. recommended an "Ultra" turbo timer to me. He described it and
said that it was so much better than his old HKS that he got rid of it
for this one. The company is based in Japan, but I don't have any addr info
on it yet. I noticed you have a 94 like me. Feel free to ask me
questions if you need any other 94 MR2 driver's advice. I'll do my best!
+----------+--------------+ +---------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________|I'll bet that fire and the wheel |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.5k |were invented on the same day. |
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 |That night, they burned the wheel|
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| |
+------------------------------------------+---------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 22:33:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Am I on Crack?
> >
> > TO POST TO THE DIGEST: mr2-digest@validgh.com
> > mr2-digest bunches up a number of postings and then sends them all at once
> > to save money (I pay for every byte I receive and send, once to
> > UUNET and again to PAC BELL). Anything reasonably related to Toyota
> > MR2's may be posted there.
> > This mailing list is currently unmoderated; please help keep it that way.
> >
> OK, so now we ONLY have the digest as a choice? No more plain
> mailings? I have NO trouble occasionally unsub'ing and resub'ing to
>
> Reading this group as a digest will drive me off. The convenience of
> scrolling through titles and reading what I'm interested in allows me
> to rarely, if EVER, have to read something I may consider spam.
>
> Jonathan Drout
>
I'm going to have to agree with Jonathan. I would rather read messages
the old way from my computer terminal here at Ohio U. I could care less
what it costs the University (if anything). I pay enough as it is!
+----------+--------------+ +---------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________|I'll bet that fire and the wheel |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.5k |were invented on the same day. |
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 |That night, they burned the wheel|
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| |
+------------------------------------------+---------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 1995 21:13:38 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, tm-wob@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Don't get blounced!
Ok, we interrupt this normally automotive-related group to bring you this
important bit of administrivia. Important, that is, if you want your
posting to actually be posted. You can't use the following words in the
first 5 lines of your message:
s#bscrib*
uns#bscrib*
wh|ch
wh*
inf*
ind*x
g*t
h*lp
|ists
*nd
I'm not sure about the wh|ch and g*t, (these are awfully common) but
the others will cause majordomo to bounce your message to me, which
is not what you want. Yes, I know that on a |ist where "h*lp" is
what we're all looking for, that refraining from the use of that
particular word is nearly impossible at worst and painful at best.
However, way back a long time ago, before majordomo (BM, no pun
intended), we all got sick and tired of folks sending unsub and sub
messages to the entire group. Majordomo has this nifty bounce feature
that automatically chastises such villans and sends them a copy
of the information text on how to unsub one's self.
The guilty parties? Well, there's the new folks who don't
know about this feature and are therefore blameless. (Hint: Now you
know!) And occasionally one of us just hits the send key before
looking for these guilty words. Finally, there's this one list
member in Hawaii who fills my in box at times with bounced messages.
If he weren't the absolute final authority on all things Toyota I'd
have to have Ben Tan publicly flog him (Ben's one of our Singaporean
members, for you new folks.)
Well, enough babble from me. Just back from 4 days at Disney, so
my brain's kinda mushy anyway. Glad it's less than 2 hours away
so I can use that annual pass I got! :-P
Now, we return you to our regularly scheduled programming!
Chris
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 1995 21:34:11 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: NOS
>Supposidly, the cooling effect will lower air temp by 60-70 degree. When
>air is decompress, it'll come out cool as well, but I'm not sure if it'll
>be as cool as NOS decompressing.
Bingo. Cooling the intake mixture is a measurable part of NOS's
performance improvement.
>And my senseless ideas.
Senseless only if you consider doing this without completely rebuilding
that tired engine of yours! ;-) (Which I know you will!)
Call NOS for their catalog: 714-821-0580. Call CAP for NOS.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 1995 22:08:21 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Dirty Dealer Doin's!
I just read Brent's post about dealerships and it made me think about
something that happened at a local unnamed dealership that I am very
familiar with. These guys have the biggest bunch of idiots working
in the service department you can imagine. One day, two of them, each
in a new car, comes screaming around the corner of the service building.
In opposite directions. At the same time. BLAMMO! Head on collision,
something like $3000 damage to _one_ of the cars. One of the idiots
has a long history of stupid acts, and i figure this is the last straw.
I'm chatting with the owner of the dealership (we've gotten to be friends
of a sort) and express my amazement at his calm demeanor over the situ-
ation. He tells me that since he's not going to lose any money on the
deal, there's no reason to be concerned. I ask how he's going to manage
that. He says that he can get his shop to fix the car for around $1000.
(Don't ask! I don't even want to explain this part, much less fully
understand it. Let's just say it has something to do with warranty
replacements and paperwork shuffles!) Then, he just mentions to one of
the other dealerships in the state that he has one of these quite
expensive cars that he's willing to sell for sticker or a little under.
The other dealership (which has much lower volume) has been crying to
the manufacturer for some of these cars at _any_ price, so they snap
it up. The law says that my friend can't sell a damaged car to a
customer and represent it as a new one. It doesn't say that he can't
sell a damaged car to another _dealership_ as a new one! And since
they don't know it was damaged, they can sell it without (knowingly)
lying about the state of the product.
Amazing, eh?
Chris
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Gary Hong
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: NOS
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 95 1:43:41 PDT
From: Christopher Myer
>
>>And my senseless ideas.
>
>Senseless only if you consider doing this without completely rebuilding
>that tired engine of yours! ;-) (Which I know you will!)
Hehe...
>Call NOS for their catalog: 714-821-0580. Call CAP for NOS.
I called NOS earlier this week for their catalog. Here's the deal:
Catalog is $5.00.
$9 added as surcharge for orders under $20!
I should tell them where I think they can shove their catalogs! :)
I ordered the LC catalog w/ no problems. Just straight $7 (no shipping charge,
surcharge, etc).
Gary
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 1995 08:32:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora
Subject: RE: SEMA Road Trip !
To: Toyota Mods
>
> So far the bunch of guys from the Toyota Mods Listing is
>
> Chris "Buy me drinkie" Myer
> Allan "Botoboy" Chen
> and myself Allen "Koji buys Chris drinkie" Kam
>
> Gary Hong is unsure.
>
> Our purpose on going to Sema and pow wowing is to discuss
> the Toyota Mods FAQ (ya i've been slacking on working on it)
> And update all the listings and proably doing some major
> drinking !!!
>
> Oppps i meant...errr Looking for kewl aftermarket parts for TM list =)
Rats .. wish i could come too ... it would add a female touch to the group!!
; )
> So far, it stands got us, and my friend Ted Koseki from the Rx-7 list,
> and 3 of their dudes =)
>
> Everyone is welcome to come !
Boo Hoo!! Give me a plane ticket!!!
Hey all. .... I've installed my Stillen Brake rotors i got off Chris (thanks
chris!! : ) ... they look WAYYYY cool ... as for braking??? Well, i've
broken them in and now i'm being nice and careful to them. The instructions
say no hard braking for 300 miles ... so i'm driving REAL nice and counting
down the clock!! >; )
Later
Ade
PS. And I did it ALL BY MYSELF ... well, my boyfriend helped me by fetching
tools etc (hheee hee ; ) 0: )
>
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-*
> *
> | Allen T "Koji" Kam koji@ohana.com
> |
> |
> |
> | PARTY NAKED !!! - NO ONE KNOWS IN CYBERSPACE.....
Well, we know now!!! ; )
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 1995 19:25:44 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: NOS
>>Call NOS for their catalog: 714-821-0580. Call CAP for NOS.
>
>I called NOS earlier this week for their catalog. Here's the deal:
>
> Catalog is $5.00.
> $9 added as surcharge for orders under $20!
> I should tell them where I think they can shove their catalogs! :)
>
>I ordered the LC catalog w/ no problems. Just straight $7 (no shipping charge,
>surcharge, etc).
Oops--sorry. If anyone _needs_ a NOS catalog, let me know and I'll mail
them one. Gary, send me your snail-mail address and I'll try to get one
out.
Chris
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Casey7970@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 1995 22:30:53 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Kip Anderson
Eugene, OR
91 MR2 MkII Turbo
3S-GTE
Tokico Illuma adjustable struts, 15x7 & 15x8 HRE wheels on 205/50s & 225/50s
Casey7970@aol.com
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From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 1995 22:38:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: M.S.D.
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
What are everyone's feelings on the MSD 6A ignition amplifier.
I am interested in it because of the price. It is only $150 compared to
$400 for a jacobs or $450 for an HKS. I would suppose that you would get
more for your money with the more expensive ones, but if anyone of you are
using the MSD ignition, I would like to know your thoughts on it.
Did it make a noticeable difference?
How is the spark plug wear with it installed?
If MSD is good, is the 6A the best deal for my '85 MR2, or is another model bette
r?
the bottom line is, IS THE MSD IGNITION AMP ANY GOOD?
Thank you,
Aly at abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
-----------------------------------------------------------------
You better believe its a good buy! Unless your running a funny car an
MSD willgive you all the spark you need. it gives you motor not only
multiple spark but also about 20 degrees of spark duration. your car
will idle and run smoother.with noticeable power.
spark ware will not be effected if you run good plugs I run autolights
I have tried a lot of plugs but they seem to last longest.
I did try a Mallory Hi-fire once. Not only was it bigger than a MSD
taking up more room in a tight place, but after I got it all hooked up.
The thing would not work, defective right out of the box.
I took it back and got an MSD. Its so easy to install. 2 hours max.
and with a good coil its good up to 12,000 rpm. Think you need higher?
I liked so much I got another one for my other Hot Toyota.
the 6A and the 6 AL are both the same except for the rev limiter.
leave the stock rev limiter if you go with the 6A disconnect it
if you go for the 6A-L MSD
also the MSD has a lot of neat parts that you can build (plug in) on
to your unit.
Later, Rick D. / T & R Auto / exporter@delphi.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Oct 1995 21:42:45 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: M.S.D.
>I did try a Mallory Hi-fire once. Not only was it bigger than a MSD
> taking up more room in a tight place, but after I got it all hooked up.
> The thing would not work, defective right out of the box.
This isn't the first problem I've heard about with Mallory. LC Engineering
swears by the Mallory Electronic Ignition Distributors for their 2xR
engines, says its the only thing they'll use and that they _alone_ add
something like 5-10 hp over a stock distributor. This sounds great, but
one of my suppliers says to avoid the Mallory Electronic Distributor--
to many problems with them burning out. I'm just about to rebuild the
engine in the truck and am considering putting one of these on, but I
won't be too surprised if I have problems. Anyone else hear anything
about these?
Chris
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Date: Fri, 20 Oct 95 21:08:00 PDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Assorted blabberings on re: books, storing car etc.
Ho hum, picked up a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook the other day ..
Neat
stuff .. I like the little tweaks to increase throttle response etc ..
(phagh, who
needs pollution control ). Worth the 25$ some odd I payed for it I think.
(and I LOVE that 75 Celica they have in there, drool)
And speaking of Celicas .. Sigh, my insurance expires in 6 days .. and with that
Ive a few questions. If all goes well I plan on gallavanting around Europe for
6-8 months or so starting in January .. and all things considered I really
dont think (no matter how much I want to) re-insuring my car is a real
good idea. So .. what should one do when storing a vehicle for 8-10 months
or so. If i think im rich, just before I leave Ill be putting it in a nice dry
storage place, but Ill have to find out prices first .. If i feel my typical
poor
self Ill be putting a car cover on it and planting it in Ma's driveway.
Tips, Tricks etc .. I should do before storing to be sure its still alive when
I get back? (hell .. ive been saving for this trip for almost 2 years now
.. if i
dont leave soon Ill spend it all on my car )
And speaking more on Celicas ..
Anyone know how dropping a small block buick v6 into one of the older
(72-77) Celicas
could be accomplished? .. Some guy in town here apparently put one in a 74
.. But
Ive yet to see it .. and when I get back from my trip I think Ill do one or two
small things to my baby and then sell her and get something else (itll be a
toyota
again!) as Im very worried about how some of the bodywork Ive frankenstein'd is
going to err .. survive the pressures of time.
Brett ("Im in a chatty mood") Fraser
(who wishes he could do the SEMA thing)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 04:34:27 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Babble / Books/ Storage
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| Allen T "Koji" Kam koji@ohana.com |
| |
| PARTY NAKED !!! - NO ONE KNOWS IN CYBERSPACE..... |
| Interact! Hawaii - The Online Party that NEVER STOPS !! |
| Telnet bbs.ohana.com / 204.182.45.3 |
| Modems (808) 593-8279 |
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
Blatent plug =) but at least the message won't blounce hoppily =)
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Fri Oct 20 18:22:49 1995
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 95 21:08:00 PDT
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Assorted blabberings on re: books, storing car etc.
Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
>Ho hum,
La Ti Da...
>picked up a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook the other day ..
Lucky you, i had backorder my 2 issues =(
And tell ya the truth...I have NOOO Idea where they ARE !!!
>Neat stuff ..
Ya, good material >=)
>I like the little tweaks to increase throttle response etc ..
>(phagh, who needs pollution control ).
Heck, I live in Hawaii, whats Smog ? We got VOG =)
>Worth the 25$ some odd I payed for it I think.
Heh, that sounds like Hawaii Prices !!
>(and I LOVE that 75 Celica they have in there, drool)
Crud, If I found my issue I could remeber the dudes name,
The guy who owns it..errr...
Anyways, the dude works for Nissan Motorsports,
I think the cars still forsale, if it hasn't been bought already.
The GTS in there was sold to this guy in Hawaii.
>And speaking of Celicas ..
You mean Ce-Li-Cas... (Silly-Cars - honest, thats how its supposed to be)
>Sigh, my insurance expires in 6 days ..
Hey, mines expired last month, I haven't drove all month just to
goto the dang SEMA Show =)
>and with thatIve a few questions.
The Answer is 42, no if ands or Butts about it (unless i'm tinking wrong again)
>If all goes well I plan on gallavanting around Europe for
>6-8 months or so starting in January ..
Woo Woo ! Go Visit Matti !
>and all things considered
>I really dont think (no matter how much I want to)
>re-insuring my car is a real good idea.
Ya, but don't take too long in not doing it also, my car, my pride and
joy has sat there rusting for 2 years after I said "I'll put off the insurance
till I get another job" (Hint HINT CHRIS)
>So .. what should one do when storing a vehicle for 8-10 months or so.
>If i think im rich, just before I leave Ill be putting it in a nice dry
>storage place, but Ill have to find out prices first ..
>If i feel my typical poor self Ill be putting a car cover on it
>and planting it in Ma's driveway.
Heck, sounds like what my current status is.
>Tips, Tricks etc ..
>I should do before storing to be sure its still alive when I get back?
>(hell .. ive been saving for this trip for almost 2 years now ..
This is how I've done it in the past, remeber I live in Hawaii
and really am lost =)
I run synthetic oil, so the car sitting isn't too bad, and shove in some
high grade gas, I like the Shell SU2000, Texaco System 3 Super, or
the Union 76 Super (fav choice)
I run pure coolant also, so thats not a problem rusting for me.
I shove in one of those airfresh bottles, I like the juicy (purple bottle)
and shove that in the car.
I have alum rims, what I do is spray the whole rim with Armor All, till its
soaked, and let it sit there. MY justification is that as the rust forms, it
forms on the "oily" surface, and thus is easier to wipe off. Although
bugs and other stuff stick to it easier also -shrug-
over inflate your tires or put them on jackstands, disconnect your
battery also.
Heck, there is a proper way to do this, i can't remeber what it is, i read
it in like Hot Rod years ago, maybe i'll go ask my dad =)
>if i dont leave soon Ill spend it all on my car )
Hey, come to SEMA ;)
>And speaking more on Celicas ..
Heh, Sorry, can't remeber what you have offhand, what year again ?
>Anyone know how dropping a small block buick v6 into one of the older
>(72-77) Celicas could be accomplished? ..
YES, I do...
>Some guy in town here apparently put one in a 74
>.. But
>Ive yet to see it ..
Its proably true.
The Buick motor is small enough to fit, actually a 20/22R motor is about
roughly the same size.
Somethings you might have to do is, mount the radiator on the otherside of
the grill (instead of inside the engine compartment, throw it on the other
side next to the bumper of thinger - dat made sense ?)
An eletric fan is helpful also.. but not necessary, unless you
live in a hot area....
I know one dude who relocated his radiator to his door, but thats a diff
story...
Change the crossmember, have to fab one yourself, change the motor mounts,
proably have to weld them yourself.
You might wanna consider frame connectors, because of the torque of the
motor, check with Downey for a truck conversion kit, ya can adapt it for
your Celica.
Oh, thanks can get from trans-a-dapt or downey they have a bellhousing
for it.
Depends, if you have a block sitting around -shrug- go for it, its tons
of fun, and inexpensive, i'm stubborn though, i go with Toys for Toys...
>and when I get back from my trip I think Ill do one or two small things to
>my baby and then sell her and get something else (itll be a toyota again!)
>as Im very worried about how some of the bodywork Ive frankenstein'd is
>going to err .. survive the pressures of time.
(*sigh*) I said that also, but my Corolla's still sitting there, matched
by my FX-16 now, and i want another car, can't stand the FWD =P
>Brett ("Im in a chatty mood") Fraser
>(who wishes he could do the SEMA thing)
Hey Come Along !!
If ya really in a "chatty mood" try the WOB list !
bhahahahaha...
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 04:45:01 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: SEMA - Last CALL !!!
This is the Last Call for the SEMA Show.
Its THE Aftermarket Show, the only other show bigger is Comdex, we
missed the Gaming show by one week (dang)
Might be going to Comdex if i have money -sigh-
Anyways...
Last call for all infomation wanted about parts for your vehicle.
Basically it'll go something like this..
Monday 8:00pmKoji Arrives in LV
Tuesday Koji along with Mister rec.car.audio TEd Koseki (fataldzz) will
meet up with the RX-7 Dudes
Chris Arrives and Koji tries to impress Chris by picking him
up in the 1968 blown and Injected Camaro (as seen in the air force
commercial) with 2 babes for Chris (Chris then has to walk because
Koji Realizes the camaros backseat is tubbed so, chris has to walk)
Um, somewhere Allan Botoboy arrives...
Somewhere along the line, We discuss the Toyota Mods FAQ FINALLY over
a few "beverages"
I will honestly look up any infomation anyone sends me, i've had 3 requests so far, and will work on the NEW Me/Mines/Mods format since the last update
was sometime last year and the list has grown since then.
Sorry for the WOB (used to posting on that list)
Please send all queries before monday.
We will have net access there, have to go and find an ISP or something..
Aloha !
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
1994 Tarmac CE RollerBlades
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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 12:59:52 -0500
From: rande@qni.com
Subject: California Emissions
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I recently bought an '85 MR2. After I got it home I noticed a tag that says it
meets the California emissions standards. I know their standards are stricter
than other states but what is different about them? Can I remove the extra
elements required for California? And how? Would this be possible or feasible?
Can I change them to only meet my states (Missouri) requirements?
Also, what are some upgrades I should look into for this car? The first things
I'm doing is normal engine maintainence (plugs, wires, etc.). Next will be K&N
filter, less restrictive exhaust, and adjustable struts. Any other suggestions?
Randy Eickhoff
rande@qni.com
'91T 37k 64 AS
'85 120k current project
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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 12:20:01 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford)
Subject: Brett storing Celica
Brett,
You wrote:
.. what should one do when storing a vehicle for 8-10 months
or so ... and when I get back from my trip I think Ill do one or two
small things to my baby and then sell her . . . as Im very worried about
how some of the bodywork Ive frankenstein'd is
going to err .. survive the pressures of time.
_____________
Have you considered selling it before you leave, since you'll be
selling it anyway when you get back? In general, storing a car should be
avoided when possible. Things tend to go wrong, yes just sitting there,
especially older cars (speaking from experience).
But if you go ahead with the storage, and you'll probably get some
very detailed suggestions from somebody about how to ...
It's certainly important to:
Coat the cylinder walls with oil.
Relieve the car's weight from off the suspension.
Release the parking brake--in case you set it out of habit.
I once had to get my drums turned because the brake was on for several
months.
This is probably controversial, but I have heard more than one car
"authority" advise against the outdoor use of a car cover, since it tends
to keep the car on the damp side, thus promoting rust. However, it's
obvious that one also wants to protect the paint from the environmental
stuff--UV, tree and bird droppings, nuclear fallout, etc. Obviously a
garage is perfect. With a garage in cold, damp climates, some recommend
putting plastic sheet on the concrete floor to isolate floor condensation,
keeping the car's underside dryer.
Don't know about anyone else's insurance, but mine is really easy
to "suspend" as long as the car is not used for over 30 days.
Btw, you won't regret going to Europe. Bon voyage.
Monte
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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 14:44:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Assorted blabberings on re: books, storing car etc.
On Fri, 20 Oct 1995, Brett Fraser wrote:
> good idea. So .. what should one do when storing a vehicle for 8-10 months
> or so. If i think im rich, just before I leave Ill be putting it in a nice dry
> storage place, but Ill have to find out prices first .. If i feel my typical
> poor
> self Ill be putting a car cover on it and planting it in Ma's driveway.
>
> Tips, Tricks etc .. I should do before storing to be sure its still alive when
> I get back? (hell .. ive been saving for this trip for almost 2 years now
> .. if i
> dont leave soon Ill spend it all on my car )
I'll be storing my car for the winter months, myself, and even though
that's not 8-10 months like Brett, I'm wondering about storage ideas,
too. I read an article in a magazine on tips like: leave the gas tank
(completely!) full of gas because of (something about) deposits (??) that
would otherwise require you to drain the tank and refill with a fresh supply of
gas, also taking proper measures to make sure the engine has lubrication
on that 1st start (since the oil is definitely not going to do much good
there!).
My main question is about keeping the battery from dying. I know
that while a car is not running (and, therefore, not being recharged from
the alternator) it will discharge over time to where it will become
completely dead (I speak from experience :-( ). Is the best advise to
just disconnect the battery from the car or is there something else that
would not require having to mess with my anti-theft radio and security sys?
+----------+--------------+ +----------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________|Views and opinions above are not |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.5k |necessarily my own. If I happen to|
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 |say something you don't like, it's|
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu|probably someone else's fault. :-)|
+------------------------------------------+----------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 17:15:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Blitz's Twin SBC
I have been wondering about the Blitz's Twin SBC (Solenoid Boost
Controller) ever since I saw it on the Toyota WWW page. It claims twin
turbo responce from a single turbo (i.e. reduction in turbo lag--which we
all could do without). My questions for anyone who has this item or knows
about it is: are the claims legitimate, do you have to install other
Blitz products FIRST (these companies love to pull that money trap on
you!), and how much does this cost? If it's as good as it sounds, they
might as well consider my money theirs =).
+----------+--------------+ +----------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________| I race, therefore, I make my |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.7k | insurance company salesman sweat.|
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 | He's the one getting the |
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| $212/month! What's his problem? |
+------------------------------------------+----------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 19:21:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Ce-li-ca's
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Ce-li-ca's silly cars???
Hey Brett !!! I don't get it ??
whats the punch line??
Rick Dormoi
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 95 19:17:25 PDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Re: Brett storing Celica
At 12:20 PM 10/21/95 -0600, you wrote:
>Brett,
> You wrote:
>
> .. what should one do when storing a vehicle for 8-10 months
>or so ... and when I get back from my trip I think Ill do one or two
>small things to my baby and then sell her . . . as Im very worried about
>how some of the bodywork Ive frankenstein'd is
>going to err .. survive the pressures of time.
>
>_____________
>
> Have you considered selling it before you leave, since you'll be
>selling it anyway when you get back? In general, storing a car should be
>avoided when possible. Things tend to go wrong, yes just sitting there,
>especially older cars (speaking from experience).
>
> But if you go ahead with the storage, and you'll probably get some
>very detailed suggestions from somebody about how to ...
>
> It's certainly important to:
> Coat the cylinder walls with oil.
> Relieve the car's weight from off the suspension.
> Release the parking brake--in case you set it out of habit.
>I once had to get my drums turned because the brake was on for several
>months.
>
> This is probably controversial, but I have heard more than one car
>"authority" advise against the outdoor use of a car cover, since it tends
>to keep the car on the damp side, thus promoting rust. However, it's
>obvious that one also wants to protect the paint from the environmental
>stuff--UV, tree and bird droppings, nuclear fallout, etc. Obviously a
>garage is perfect. With a garage in cold, damp climates, some recommend
>putting plastic sheet on the concrete floor to isolate floor condensation,
>keeping the car's underside dryer.
>
> Don't know about anyone else's insurance, but mine is really easy
>to "suspend" as long as the car is not used for over 30 days.
>
> Btw, you won't regret going to Europe. Bon voyage.
>
>Monte
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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 95 19:18:26 PDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Re: Ce-li-ca's
At 07:21 PM 10/21/95 -0400, you wrote:
>Ce-li-ca's silly cars???
>
>Hey Brett !!! I don't get it ??
>
>whats the punch line??
>
>Rick Dormoi
>
Hey .. dont ask me .. Ask koji ... he said it first :)
Brett
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Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 18:41:18 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: TM-FAQ: Questions Text to be Discussed at SEMA
WRT the FAQ, one thing I've always wanted to see was a specific writeup
on how to modify a certain type of Toyota for a certain application.
Here are some examples:
-Modifying the Starlet for Ice Racing
-Modifying the Turbo Supra for Drag Racing
-Modifying the RWD Celica for Circle Track Racing
-Modifying the 4x4 for OffRoad Applications
I know that there are plenty of folks out there who could give comments
on each of these various areas. What it usually takes is someone just
sitting down at the keyboard and hammering out a draft, and then passing
it around for input/review. The reviewers then add stuff on, and the
document just keeps getting better. I've said it before--we could
easily publish a book based on the knowledge of the members of this
group. The TPHandbook, while extremely valuable, is getting a bit
dated, and lacks a lot of specific information. It also reads like a
TRD advertisement, and mentions many things that TRD hasn't had for
years.
(BTW, I've been meaning to do number 3 in that list above for about
2 years now.)
Chris
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To: Brent Matthew Dye
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Assorted blabberings on re: books, storing car etc.
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 09:49:57 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
Brent Matthew Dye wrote :-
I'll be storing my car for the winter months, myself, and even though
that's not 8-10 months like Brett, I'm wondering about storage ideas,
too. I read an article in a magazine on tips like: leave the gas tank
(completely!) full of gas because of (something about) deposits (??) that
would otherwise require you to drain the tank and refill with a fresh supply of
gas, also taking proper measures to make sure the engine has lubrication
on that 1st start (since the oil is definitely not going to do much good
there!).
My main question is about keeping the battery from dying. I know
that while a car is not running (and, therefore, not being recharged from
the alternator) it will discharge over time to where it will become
completely dead (I speak from experience :-( ). Is the best advise to
just disconnect the battery from the car or is there something else that
would not require having to mess with my anti-theft radio and security sys?
----
Hmm, know a few things now from experience ('75 Corolla "in storage"
for 12 months whilst bodywork being done).
Apparently it's a good idea to fill the gas tank right up as it
prevents condensation forming in the "unused" space in the tank.
I didn't do this (didn't know the car was going to be off the road
for so long), but all looks ok so far.
As far as lubrication on 1st start, I didn't have much of a problem
with this. I had to crank the engine a fair while before it caught
(gas had to get thru from the tank all the way to the carb). This
meant that oil pressure built up before it actually started to run.
You may want to disconnect the high-tension coil lead to accomplish
the same thing.
As far as battery maintenance, you should be able to find a solar cell
"trickle charger". This plugs into the cigarette lighter socket &
when put in the light, is supposed to keep the battery charged. Even
better is if you can put the battery in another car that is driven
often. You could also have someone put te battery on a charger for
a few hours every month or so.
Hope that helps,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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To: brent matthew dye
Cc: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 23 Oct 95 8:34:17
Subject: Re: Assorted blabberings on re: books, storing car etc.
Brent Mathew Dye wrote:
I'll be storing my car for the winter months, myself, and even though
that's not 8-10 months like Brett, I'm wondering about storage ideas,
too. I read an article in a magazine on tips like: leave the gas tank
(completely!) full of gas because of (something about) deposits (??) that
would otherwise require you to drain the tank and refill with a fresh supply of
gas, also taking proper measures to make sure the engine has lubrication
on that 1st start (since the oil is definitely not going to do much good
there!).
----------------------
I plan to revive a car that's been in storage for around 2 years. Ok, the
battery is dead, there is no air in 3 of the tires, the interior smells like a
wet dog, I don't know the condition of the brakes. I don't think that the gas
tank was full went it was stored. And its a '67 VW. I really haven't worked
with VW's before.
I can get a fresh battery to start her up, but I'm wondering about the oil
situation. How do I get the oil to the cylinder walls and the valve train
before I crank it? Should I drain the oil first and put in fresh oil? How
about squirting some oil down through the spark plug holes?
Now, when I store my car (I usually leave the country for 3-6 months), I leave
it in Ma's garage and have her start the car once every weekend, keep it
running for a few minutes and that's it. This keeps the oil circulating and
the battery charged-up. Once in a while my brother would take the car out for
a spin (gosh no!).... : )
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
'79 Cressida 18R-G
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:14:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris Hilliard
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: Stock igniton coil
Hey folks,
All of this talk about igniton systems has brought me out of
lurk mode once again :)
Anybody know how much juice a stock coil on a 2T-C puts out?
I have a 77 Liftback Deluxe with the 4 speed incase their is a diff. between
options.
Also, I'm still looking for a good used carburator for this car
or possibly a twin set-up of some sort. I don't have the $ for new right now.
I'd probably take a progressive of some sort too. Let me know.
Thanks Guys/Gals
****************************************************************
* |\/\/\/| ___________________
* | | / \
* | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____
* | (0)(0) / \ / at \
* C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org |
* | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ /
* | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, /
* /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------
*/ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! /
***************************************\____________________________/
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 07:41:10 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: SEMA !!!
Welps, i'm leaving my little grass shack in Hawaii >=)
Things I packed,
Toyota Performance Handbook,
Auto Dictionary
Performance Handling
TRD Catalogs
HKS Catalogs
Some other things, and some clean socks >=)
Sock that are clean re most important >=)
Um, I'll try and get netaccess else i'll call LD
I got request for various things, and will make a final query when we get there, or i do at least...
Wabe All !
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 13:49:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: Head gasket
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Well, I just picked up my Greddy 85mm x 2.0mm head gasket.
Unfortunately, when I opened the box I found that the head gasket was bent
at about a 30-degree angle! :( I'm hoping that that's not going to
adversely affect it. The Greddy head gasket is apparently just five thin
metal plates (four of equal thickness and the middle about twice the
thickness of the others) loosely bolted together! I am not impressed by
its construction. It doesn't really seem like it would have all that tight
a seal, but I guess if you crank it down hard enough it might. The five
plates are bolted together at only five points, 3 on one side and 2 on the
other. There is a fair amount of play between the plates between the bolt
points, which is why I'm concerned about sealing ability. If I remember
correctly, my HKS 1.2mm was composed of a thick center section sandwiched
between two metal plates, and I think it was all glued together in some
fashion.
I guess I'm going to trust that the engineers at Greddy knew what
they were doing when they designed this gasket. Since the gasket is all
metal, I just bent out the 30-degree bend it had received in
packaging/shipping and I'm going to assume it'll do the job. I am
worried about it, but due to the trouble I had in getting any gasket and
because I want to get my car back after already going on 8 weeks downtime
I'm going to go ahead with it. I did expect better for $225, though.
One interesting note is that the factory packaging says "For Racing
Purposes Use Only" but I'm going to assume there's no particular reason
it would be not recommended for street use.
Also, it actually came with a 2-sided 8.5x11 instruction sheet, but
it's all in Japanese! Are there any list members that can translate it if
I scan it and put it up on my WWW site?
Aaron B.
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 16:12:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: RE: Head gasket
To: "Jeff Montigny, Family Logic CHAR Engineer. x8818"
Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
On Mon, 23 Oct 1995, Jeff Montigny, Family Logic CHAR Engineer. x8818 wrote:
> I have a Japanese collegue here at work, Aaron. I could ask her to xlate if you
> need...Web, or fax...
Please do! You can access the Greddy documentation at my home page
at "http:/jax.jaxnet.com/~ambuhr". Thanks!
Aaron B.
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 17:05:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: "KeNdRiCk W."
To: toyota mods
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Kendrick Wong
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Model: 1993 MR2 Turbo
Engine: 3S-GTE 2.0L 4 cylinders
Mods: HKS turbo exhaust, Levoc Full Auto Turbo Timer, K&N in-box
filtercharger, MOMO shift boot/knob, performance pedals
Email: levoc@unix.dsoe.com
"Betty" |\__/+--+-\____ |-\ /-|-----\|-----
@49k Km |_--##---------=> | \/ | |_) /|--) )
@== "(*)------(*)-/ | |\/| | _ < __/ /__
[KeNdRiCk] {White: 93Turbo}|_| |_|_| \_\|_______|
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 17:12:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: "KeNdRiCk W."
To: toyota mods
Subject: resonator
But removing the resonator from the intake system of my MR2, what are the
advantages and or disadvantages?
My assumption is that it will increase airflow, but would also increase the
rate of the airfilter getting dirty.
Please comment.
"Betty" |\__/+--+-\____ |-\ /-|-----\|-----
@49k Km |_--##---------=> | \/ | |_) /|--) )
@== "(*)------(*)-/ | |\/| | _ < __/ /__
[KeNdRiCk] {White: 93Turbo}|_| |_|_| \_\|_______|
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 21:25:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 Anti Drain oil filter
For all of you out there who have been wondering about the special oil
filters used in MR2's, I just got an add from the local dealer in
Columbus that says the oil filter IS anti drain. It says there on sale
for $3.99. Sounds about right for you bargain hunters (racers) doesn't
it? If any of you were confused: I reason for the anti-drain filter is
because of it top loading design. I wrote a message about a month ago
telling people to watch out when changing oil in an engine that's still
hot. Those top loaders can drip oil onto the exhaust manifold and you'll
have yourself an marshmello roast =) . Hope this helps.
+----------+--------------+ +----------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________| I race, therefore, I make my |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.7k | insurance company salesman sweat.|
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 | He's the one getting the |
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| $212/month! What's his problem? |
+------------------------------------------+----------------------------------+
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: resonator
To: levoc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (KeNdRiCk W.)
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 12:22:16 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> But removing the resonator from the intake system of my MR2, what are the
> advantages and or disadvantages?
> My assumption is that it will increase airflow, but would also increase the
> rate of the airfilter getting dirty.
>
I think that you will only increase airflow if you get a pipe that runs straight
from the intake to the airbox area. The resonator box quietens down the intake
noise (from what I've heard), and there really is no other use for it that I can
see (other than probable maintaining some air-flow rate to the airbox.
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 19:34:24 PDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Re: Assorted blabberings on re: books, storing car etc.
At 07:48 AM 10/23/95 EDT, you wrote:
>> Ho hum, picked up a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook the other day ..
>> Neat
>> stuff .. I like the little tweaks to increase throttle response etc ..
>> self Ill be putting a car cover on it and planting it in Ma's driveway.
>[snip]
>
>Where can I pick up a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook?
Any bookstore should be able to get it for you .. or failing that just
look in the FAQ for this list .. in the booklist (suppliers.txt I think is the
filename you request from Majordomo) it has the number for Classic Motorbooks,
the publisher..
Brett
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 22:50:16 -0400
From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Me/Mine/Mods
Name: Michael Dowe
Location: Toronto, Canada. I am employed at a local Toyota Dealer as a
licenced mechanic
Model 1: 1992 Paseo
Engine 1: 5EFE
Mods 1: none
Model 2: 1987 Corolla GTS (RWD)
Engine 2: 4AGE
Mods 2: pending
Email: mdowe@wchat.on.ca
Frustration with the lack of engine parts for the Paseo caused me to jump at
the recent oppurtunity to purchase the Corolla. Four burned exhaust valves
in three cyls, and seized oil control rings prompted the previous owner to
sell (240,000 kms).
I am undecided as to what to what extreme to go to in building the motor.
Cams and timing pulleys are my first thought, but are too easy to add later.
The motor is currently apart, I would like to finish it before the snow
flies. If anyone has suggestions for cams with stock springs, or experiences
with different makes of cams, please write.
ps the head will be .010 shorter by Friday due to a poor surface on the head.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 23:05:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Car Storage
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
One more time!!
How to store a Car for long term 101.
1 .
Put it up on blocks.
Jack stands or with wood. To relax the suspension
Keep the tires from flat spotting.
2 .
Empty the gas tank or buy gas stabilizer.
You can buy gas stabilizer at a marine supply or lawn mower
sales store. Gas will degrade if you let it sit for a year .
Your car will run on it (poorly) but you really don't want to run
that old stuff though your motor. Squirt all the gas out of the
carbs until empty. Gas sitting in your carbs can dry into
shellac like varnish.
3 .
Drain your oil
(Even if synthetic) Post combustion by products that build
up (suspend) in your oil ( a natural thing) can turn into
cylinder eating acid that can pit the walls and make you rings
stick from corrosion. Spray a little W-D 40 in the spark plug
holes to coat the walls and with a funnle also put one table-
spoon of motor oil in, this will prevent ring stick.
4.
Remove the battery
This one is tough. I have bought a 2 amp trickle chargers and
still warped the plates (battery swelling). I've heard of a solar
trickle charger no that sounds like that might work it,s only
going to charge when the light hits it. Your best bet ? Sell it
to a friend and get a fresh one when it's time
( I know it's not always an option).
5
Yes, release the parking brake.
6
Car covers ?
I'll let you guy's fight that one out.
Me, I use a couple of old soft quilts and stick it in the garage.
It protects it from most stray flying toy or rubble from certain
family members.
Notes : Restarting
When refilling the oil . If you have an over head cam motor and
it's not a major operation to remove the valve cover .
Pour some oil over the cam (or cams ) valve stems, springs,
rockers and fill the heads galleys. When it comes time to
start it up again the engine will smoke for moment until the oil
blows out of the cylinder, so don't freak out.
Have fun and give her a kiss for me
when you put her to beddy -by.
Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto / exporter @ delphi.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 22:12:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: Christopher Myer
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TM-FAQ: Questions Text to be Discussed at SEMA
>The TPHandbook, while extremely valuable, is getting a bit
> dated, and lacks a lot of specific information. It also reads like a
> TRD advertisement, and mentions many things that TRD hasn't had for
> years.
I agree 100% with your comments on this book! I think your idea about
compiling some of the information held by members of this group sounds
great, but might be a difficult organizational task.
Craig
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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 00:51:48 -0700
To: "KeNdRiCk W." ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: resonator
At 05:12 PM 10/23/95 -0700, KeNdRiCk W. wrote:
>
>But removing the resonator from the intake system of my MR2, what are the
>advantages and or disadvantages?
I think the only disadvantage is a louder intake noise.. nothing you would
(or should) care about :)
My opinion is, its just like an exhaust muffler, and it would have similar
effects as if you removed your exhaust muffler, more power from more flow
>
>My assumption is that it will increase airflow, but would also increase the
>rate of the airfilter getting dirty.
Thats what an air filter's for though right.. you figure if its getting
dirtier faster, its filtering more air faster than it was before, hence more
power..
>
>Please comment.
>
>"Betty" |\__/+--+-\____ |-\ /-|-----\|-----
>@49k Km |_--##---------=> | \/ | |_) /|--) )
> @== "(*)------(*)-/ | |\/| | _ < __/ /__
>[KeNdRiCk] {White: 93Turbo}|_| |_|_| \_\|_______|
>
cool sig..
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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 06:56:35 -0400
From: "ROGERS"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Me/Mine/Mods
Hey Michael,
Cool, A fellow Toronto person! Which Toyota Dealer are you with?
I have an old TRD catalogue with me, so if you send me a Fax number, I will fax
the info over to you. (It basically describes the profile/recommended usage of
each cam)
As for my 4AGE, I am using 306/7.5 mm intake 286/7.5 mm lift exhaust. These are
considered race cams as the power band is 4000-8000.
If anyone knows of a cheap(er) source where I can get the Tokico illuminas (5
way adjustable ) please let me know, (I was quoted $220 CDN + 15%) *EACH* plus
they would take 2 weeks to get them!
rogers@golddisk.com
Roger Smith
Gold Disk
Tel: 905-602-4000
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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 11:11:33 CDT
From: Bruce Brandt 834-7372
Subject: MRJ
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Just saw the MRJ in this weeks Autoweek. They state that it is the
replacement for the MR2 and is a mid-engine 2+2 with what looks to be
a retractable hardtop. Power is from a 5 valve version of the Celica
2.2 NA that makes 179 hp, not too shabby but could be stronger ala
Honda VTEC. Having a back seat would ease some of the insurance
issues, I think I paid an extra $400 per year in CA because of being a
strict 2 seater. Not sure if I like it or not but the concept looks
good.
Just my .02
Bruce Brandt
89SC MR2 T-Tops
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: TVIS SYSTEM
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 13:23:37 -0400 (EDT)
Hello everyone,
Recently on the toyota digest, some were discussing the TVIS system
on the 85-89 MK I NA 4AGE motor. I have put in the Tornado and I am
wondering whether I received any hp gains (5-10 advertised). The main thing
I want to discuss is if the stock TVIS system is restricting the HP gains on
this motor, what are our options for a STREET LEGAL replacement of the TVIS
system? Who makes the good to best ones, what kind of prices are we
talking, where can we get them, and what does the installation consist of?
Please keep responses as clear as possible. Most important, how much hp
increase are we talking for these injection systems over the stock system? I
want REAL numbers. Also will the stock computer work with these injection
systems? And last but not least, does anyone know the price on a Haltech E5
computer or had any experience with it or other computers?
Thank you,
Aly
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
email me or post to the mods list, your choice.
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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 18:05:20 -0600
From: Juan-Carlos Guijon
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Juan-Carlos Guijon
Location : Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Model : 1988 MR2 SC. 135kkm (Oct 95)
Engine : 4AGZE
Mods : K&N In-Box Filter
email : jcguijon@raddi.uah.ualberta.ca
WWW page: http://raddi.uah.ualberta.ca/~jcguijon/
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To: aly abulkheir
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TVIS SYSTEM
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 95 13:09:34 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
> Recently on the toyota digest, some were discussing the TVIS system
>on the 85-89 MK I NA 4AGE motor.
(deletia)
>email me or post to the mods list, your choice.
Hi All,
I'm interested in this also. Pls CC: me if posting directly back to
Aly.
Thanks,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 11:07:04 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh)
Subject: 22RTE
I have a '85 Celica GTS Conv. and I've been inquiring about possibly
swapping engines. I was wondering if anyone in the mods group knew of,
heard of, or even put a 22RTE in a Celica? Since it is a 22RE base, I
figure it should bolt right in, but will it fit? Any ideas on the $$'s of
such a job? Is it even likely? Should I go that route, or can I upgrade
the 22RE to the same power w/ less cost?
-culture
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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 10:28:29 -0500
From: rande@qni.com
Subject: California Emissions
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I recently bought an '85 MR2. After I got it home I noticed a tag that says it
meets the California emissions standards. I know their standards are stricter
than other states but what is different about them? Can I remove the extra
elements required for California? And how? Would this be possible or feasible?
Can I change them to only meet my states (Missouri) requirements?
Also, what are some upgrades I should look into for this car? The first things
I'm doing is normal engine maintainence (plugs, wires, etc.). Next will be K&N
filter, less restrictive exhaust, and adjustable struts. Any other suggestions?
Randy Eickhoff
Kansas City, MO |-\ /-||-----\|-----\
rande@qni.com | \/ || |_) /|--) )
'91 MR2T 37k 64 AS | |\/| || _ < __/ /__
'85 MR2 120k current project |_| |_||_| \_\|_______|
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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 15:17:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris Hilliard
To: Toyota Mods
Cc: corolla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Will 3T-C carb fit?
Hey folks!
I have a question for you guys/gals. I am still kinda new
with Toyotas and ask forgiveness concerning stupid questions.
I have a '77 Corolla Liftback with a 2T-C. The carb is screwed
due to a rebuild fiasco and I need a replacement. I spied a station
wagon of similiar year in a salvage yard and it has a 3T-C. The carb
looks identical except for some wiring. My 2T has a black and a red
wire going to the electric choke and this 3T (a corona station wagon)
has three wires going to a plug: a red one and a black one going to the
choke like on mine BUT there is also a green one going to a sensor
of some sort that is screwed into the side of the carb. What is this?
Is this carb compatable with my engine? Are there jetting differnces, etc?
Should I pass this one up ($50.00) ?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Money IS an issue
because I am tieing the knot soon.
Thanks
****************************************************************
* |\/\/\/| ___________________
* | | / \
* | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____
* | (0)(0) / \ / at \
* C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org |
* | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ /
* | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, /
* /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------
*/ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! /
***************************************\____________________________/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: Chris Hilliard
Cc: Toyota Mods ,
Subject: Re: Will 3T-C carb fit?
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 95 09:15:26 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
Chris Hilliard wrote :-
Hey folks!
I have a question for you guys/gals. I am still kinda new
with Toyotas and ask forgiveness concerning stupid questions.
I have a '77 Corolla Liftback with a 2T-C. The carb is screwed
due to a rebuild fiasco and I need a replacement. I spied a station
wagon of similiar year in a salvage yard and it has a 3T-C. The carb
looks identical except for some wiring. My 2T has a black and a red
wire going to the electric choke and this 3T (a corona station wagon)
has three wires going to a plug: a red one and a black one going to the
choke like on mine BUT there is also a green one going to a sensor
of some sort that is screwed into the side of the carb. What is this?
I write :-
This is probably the Idle Solenoid. It is given power when the
engine is running, no power when it is off. It's there to cut
the flow of fuel when the engine is switched off, to prevent
over-run (engine continuing to run after it's switched off).
To use this carb on your engine, you'd need to either setup a
relay, or else remove it completely somehow. It's also possible to
"tune around" it, ie. setup carb so that solenoid being on or off
doesn't make any difference to fuel flow. Some people do this as
(in my experience) the idle solenoid tends to fail quite often (once
a year for me for a while -- thank goodness for Weber carbs). Not
sure exactly how you'd do this -- probably increase idle speed to
compensate.
Oh yeah, to check if it is an idle solenoid, try giving it 12V &
listen for a clicking sound. This is the sound of a pin being drawn
back within the solenoid.
Is this carb compatable with my engine? Are there jetting differnces, etc?
Should I pass this one up ($50.00) ?
Not sure on the above. Yours being a 2T & the other being a 3T, I'd
imagine there'd be differences. Maybe swap the jets from your
carb to the 3T's Carb?
Hope this helps,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 21:35:38 -0500
From: rande@qni.com
Subject: Tornado
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I was asked to forward this to the list. If anyone has any information or
experience with the Tornado please respond the list, myself, or the original
writer.
Thanks.
<---- Begin Forwarded Message ---->
Return-Path:
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Tornado
To: rande@
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 21:37:24 -0400 (EDT)
The tornado is a small round device that looks like a little fan but
has no moving parts. According to the manufacturer, when you put it in the
black tube between the air flow meter and the throttle body it swirls the
air around, creating turbulence in the air flow and in the combustion
chamber and increasing power by 5-10 horsepower. Technically it should
work, I guess. I installed it right after the air flow meter and if you
have an older mr2 like my '85, you can see that there is a bend in the tube
before it reaches the throttle body. It would probably be better to install
it after the bend where this tube attaches to the throttle body, but it was
hard enough to squeeze it into the side near the air flow meter. I really
don't feel any difference in power, but then again this and a K&N
filtercharger are the only power modifications I have made so far. But
recently on the mods list and/or digest some were discussing that with so
much going on in the TVIS system on the normally aspirated (NA) 4AGE motor,
they said that the effects of the Tornado may be diminished by the time the
air flow reaches the combustion chamber. I hope to hear more on this in the
future to see if my $80 was worth it for the Tornado. Anyway, if we hear
more on the effectiveness of the Tornado and you decide to buy one, it is
made by Tornado Air Management Systems. I bought mine at Ultima Performance
in Long Island, NY on Northern Blvd. I don't have their number off hand,
but they (Ultima) advertises in Turbo magazine all the time, so they are
accessible. They did not mention to me any problem with the TVIS system
interfering with the Tornado's effectiveness. Maybe they just don't know
about it, or maybe they just wanted to make a quick $80.
-Aly
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
<---- End Forwarded Message ---->
Randy Eickhoff
rande@qni.com |-\ /-||-----\|-----\
Kansas City, MO | \/ || |_) /|--) )
'91 MR2T 37k 64 AS | |\/| || _ < __/ /__
'85 MR2 120k current project |_| |_||_| \_\|_______|
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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 22:23:16 -0700 (MST)
To: rande@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Tornado
At 09:35 PM 10/25/95 -0500, rande@qni.com wrote:
>I was asked to forward this to the list. If anyone has any information or
>experience with the Tornado please respond the list, myself, or the original
>writer.
>
>Thanks.
>
Quite honestly, I think its BS.. if anything it is more of a restriction
than anything. How can you gain 5 horsepower from something you inset into
the path of intake air. Whereas an air filter gains 5 hp when you remove
the air box as a restriction. I have heard that when you have "spiral"
grooves cut into like a barrel of a gun, or exhaust pipes (there was one
system in Japan like that), its supposed to increase air velocity.. but that
Tornado thing is like 2 inches long, and its like an inverted propeller.. I
think its a restriction.
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 23:07:59 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: chan@internews.com (Jeff Chan)
Subject: Re: TVIS SYSTEM
> Recently on the toyota digest, some were discussing the TVIS system
>on the 85-89 MK I NA 4AGE motor. ... The main thing I want to discuss is
>if the stock TVIS system is restricting the HP gains on this motor, what
>are our options for a STREET LEGAL replacement of the TVIS system? ...
>Most important, how much hp increase are we talking for these injection
>systems over the stock system? I want REAL numbers. Also will the stock
>computer work with these injection systems? And last but not least, does
>anyone know the price on a Haltech E5 computer or had any experience with
>it or other computers?
First recall that horsepower comes from airflow. Sure it's
important to have a fuel system that will do the right thing
with more flow, but the goal in any engine tuning is to get
more flow. flow = power. Typically you increase flow by
enlarging and smoothing out intake and exhaust tracts,
including in the head (porting), higher lift & duration
cams, larger valves, greater displacement, less restrictive
filters, intakes & exhausts, super/turbocharging, etc. It
should be possible to modify the intake tracts somewhat and
still have the stock computer/fi system keep up to some extent.
If you go really radical (like more displacement), all the
systems may need to be replaced/modified.
My understanding is that TVIS is the Variable Induction System
which delays the opening of the second set of (4) intake runners
until a certain rpm is reached. Using a single runner per
cylinder when the flow rate is low (e.g., at low rpm) helps keep
air velocities high for better charge filling (ram tuning effect).
Strictly speaking TVIS is not the fuel injection system, though of
course they talk to each other. I too am trying to figure out
what to do with this engine beyond the exhaust & pflow that a
previous owner put on... Other comments/suggestions/experiences
welcome.
--
Jeff Chan
chan@internews.com
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tornado
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 95 16:36:53 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
Aric Shen wrote re: Tornado:-
Quite honestly, I think its BS.. if anything it is more of a restriction
than anything. How can you gain 5 horsepower from something you inset into
the path of intake air. Whereas an air filter gains 5 hp when you remove
the air box as a restriction. I have heard that when you have "spiral"
grooves cut into like a barrel of a gun, or exhaust pipes (there was one
system in Japan like that), its supposed to increase air velocity.. but that
Tornado thing is like 2 inches long, and its like an inverted propeller.. I
think its a restriction.
I write :-
Probably true. The only real way to guage its effectiveness would
be before & after tests -- dyno, 1/4 mile, 0-100km/h, in-gear
acceleration figures etc. Same goes for all mods. In fact, I've
read a few stories about things like aftermarket "Hot Chips" that
actually DECREASE performance. A good rule of thumb is to ask the
seller to back up their claims with a before & after dyno run. If
they're unwilling to do this, I'd be wary of their product.
Cheers,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 21:45:12 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Greetings from SEMA - Day ][
Aloha....
Welps, the current time is 12:30pm here in Las Vegas...
Chris "The He-Man" Myer, is presently comatose in a bedroom in my fathers house.
Frankly, he earned his new title today by carrying around his laptop plus a
couple of cataloges all day long =)
Woo woo !
Welps, After seeing a lot of car stuff (the place is really big big)
we went to eat at the Rio buffet.
We ate a plethera of food.
Basic stuff...
hanging around with Mister Ted Koseki of rec.car.audio - Rx-7 Turbo ][
2 other guys from the Rx-7 list, they are really
kewl...
Botoboy has shown no sign yet, so we're still awaiting him to come.
I've gotten some infomation for those who requested, else i'll give you
the old infomation I had from before, actually..hoping to slip it to chris
so he can post it, since he'll see this too late =)
Trying to find a lot of current applications for Toyotas, however, on the
performance side, its quite difficult.
Anyways...
Got to see the Greddy Skyline GTR and touch it, and be friendly with the Greddy girls =) Oh, the Twin turbo Supra was pretty nice, but they girls were at the dang Skyline, so hey... I turned Nissan guy for a little while =)
Anyways..
Try and write more later...body is aching and lack of sleep.
Catch ya all on the flip side...
I'm sure Chris will post something more complete later.
Asta La Pasta...
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
1971 Monte Carlo (on vacation)
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Development
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 10:26:51 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tornado
>
> Quite honestly, I think its BS.. if anything it is more of a restriction
> than anything. How can you gain 5 horsepower from something you inset into
> the path of intake air. Whereas an air filter gains 5 hp when you remove
> the air box as a restriction. I have heard that when you have "spiral"
> grooves cut into like a barrel of a gun, or exhaust pipes (there was one
> system in Japan like that), its supposed to increase air velocity.. but that
> Tornado thing is like 2 inches long, and its like an inverted propeller.. I
> think its a restriction.
Maybe you could hook a generator to it, and power a light bulb off it.
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 13:21:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brent Matthew Dye
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: KeNdRiCk's me/mine/mods
On Mon, 23 Oct 1995, KeNdRiCk W. wrote:
> Name: Kendrick Wong
> Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
> Model: 1993 MR2 Turbo
> Engine: 3S-GTE 2.0L 4 cylinders
> Mods: HKS turbo exhaust, Levoc Full Auto Turbo Timer, K&N in-box
> filtercharger, MOMO shift boot/knob, performance pedals
> Email: levoc@unix.dsoe.com
Kendrick,
What has been your experience with the Levoc Full Auto Turbo
Timer? I've been trying to get an Ultra Full Auto, but I'm having some
troubles with the transaction. Just wanted to look at other options in
case. I heard that Levoc was pretty cool, but I wasn't sure if the guy
telling me that actually had one.
+----------+--------------+ +----------------------------------+
|Brent Dye / Columbus, OH |________________| I race, therefore, I make my |
|(Fully Loaded) Super Red 94 Turbo @16.7k | insurance company salesman sweat.|
|AKA:Red Sled Lic plate:MISTR 2 | He's the one getting the |
|Personal Mail: bd112593@oak.cats.ohiou.edu| $212/month! What's his problem? |
+------------------------------------------+----------------------------------+
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 13:09:45 CDT
From: Bruce Brandt 834-7372
Subject: Synthetic Oil and Hp Gains
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
A week or so ago someone, I deleted the message too quick so don't
remember who, posted a skeptical comment regarding a claim by a
synthetic oil to increase hp. These claims were first made by Mobil in
the mid '70s so aren't new. They also happen to be true. In fact if
you are using a conventional 20W50 or 10W40 a switch to a 5W30
synthetic will probably do more good than the Tornado that has been
discussed.
The reality is that the synthetic does not increase hp, it just looses
less. The internal friction of the oil consumes hp. There are a set of
formulas for sizing the bearing journals of a crankshaft and part of
the calculations is the heat generated from this friction of the oil
with itself and the associated hp loss. The heat generated can
actually cook the oil in the bearing. The lighter the *weight* of the
oil the lower the viscosity and therefore friction. Less friction loss
= more available hp.
I think I still have the formulas, although not the computer modeling
program I wrote, if anyone is interested I will try and find and post
them.
Regards,
Bruce Brandt
89SC MR2 T-Tops
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 15:27:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: Re: Head gasket
To: Sevan Davitian
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
On Mon, 23 Oct 1995, Sevan Davitian wrote:
> > the head gasket was bent
> >at about a 30-degree angle!
>
> Aaron you know the saying haste makes waste !! if the gasket has a crease in
> it at the vertex of the angle send it back because its guaranteed to leak.
Fortunately, as far as I can tell there's no crease or kink in the
gasket. It was more of a round bend. I'm just worried that if the metal
got stretched on the outer side of the kink, it won't seal properly.
We'll see I guess. I did get Toyomoto's replacement head bolts, just to
be on the safe side, so when we torque those suckers down hopefully it'll
squash the gasket down enough to seal well.
> , my HKS 1.2mm was composed of a thick center section sandwiched
> >between two metal plates, and I think it was all glued together in some
> >fashion.
> >
> >
> Unfortunately the thicker the gaskets the more layers, I have a HKS 2mm and
> it is also 5 layers
The HKS 2.0mm is 5 layers too, huh? How are the layers joined?
Aaron B.
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 13:27:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: RE: 22RTE (long post!)
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
>I have a '85 Celica GTS Conv. and I've been inquiring about possibly
>swapping engines. I was wondering if anyone in the mods group knew of,
>heard of, or even put a 22RTE in a Celica? Since it is a 22RE base, I
>figure it should bolt right in, but will it fit? Any ideas on the $$'s of
>such a job? Is it even likely? Should I go that route, or can I upgrade
>the 22RE to the same power w/ less cost?
>-culture
Here is some info I posted on the list a while back:
The 22RET turbo engine that I purchased is (as far as I can tell) from a
1986 truck. I think that the truck was wrecked. I purchased it in 1989 for
$300. They guy initially wanted $700; I offered $300 and walked. He called
me back a few weeks later and said OK. I think that all he cared about was
the automatic transmission, which he kept. The engine came from Texas, so
it was missing a few of the emissions items required in California (like
throttle position dampner). The engine was also missing the computer, air
flow meter, down pipe from turbo that houses the O2 sensor, pipe from turbo
outlet to intake manifold, and probably a few other items that I can't
recall. The wiring harness had been cut at its largest point, but all
connectors to the injectors, sensors, etc. were intact. It seems incredible
to me that someone would remove an EFI engine like this and not also remove
the EFI computer, wiring harness, etc. I have seen a few of these
advertised over the years. There was one listed for around $1000, again
without the computer (idiots!!!). So I guess I got a good deal.
The current Turbo magazine has an article about a company that sells
replacement turbos for the 22RET with improved performance, for less than
the Toyota unit. Since the turbo is more than $1K, perhaps owners of these
vehicles would rather part out than spend the money.
The engine was a relatively simple bolt in into my 1980 Celica, and I would
assume the same for earlier 20R Celicas (maybe even 18R Celicas) and the
1981 22R Celica. For 1982 to 1985 Celicas (22R and 22RE), it should also
work OK, although there may be some interference between the turbo exhaust
plumbing and the rack & pinion steering system. With my ball/joint
steering, it looks like it will clear. One thing that I had to do was use
one engine mount from my old 20R and one from the 22RET. The stock 5 speed
transmission on my 1980 Celica bolted to the 22RET without a problem.
I am currently running without the turbo and EFI. I have dual Weber carbs
and headers. This is not as great as it sounds, since the engine has 7.5:1
compression (stock), stock cam, and the flow characteristics of 22R heads
suck (no pun intended). The intake manifold bolted up to the 22RET head OK
(round ports on manifold to larger square ports on 22RET). The headers that
I used on my 20R engine bolted up also.
There were some changes between the pre and post 1985 22R heads that affect
the location of the exhaust manifold stud locations. The 22RET exhaust
manifold will probably bolt up to 1985 and later 22R(E) heads. I'm not sure
of pre 1985 22R(E) engines. I tried to bolt it to my 1980 20R head, but a
few of the bolt holes did not line up. Exhaust ports are pretty much in the
same place. I assume that the 22R and 22RE heads are the same.
There are differences in the 22RET head vs. a 22R(E) regarding valves
(higher temp?). I don't recall all of the details, although I have
documentation from Toyota that lists them.
The EFI computer for the 22RET is almost guaranteed to be different than the
22RE. Mainly in the programming: ignition timing, fuel timing for higher
hp engine, knock sensor (does 22RE have knock sensor?), etc.
My ideal setup would be: 20R head (better flow) on 22RET block (hopefully
still close to 7.5:1), turbo, EFI, intake manifold with individual butterfly
valves per port (HKS and others sells these - they look like sidedraft carbs
with mounting locations for injectors). The ultimate might be one of LC
Engineering's prepared 2.5L 22R 200 hp engines (with reduced compression)
plus the turbo.
The reality is that I have an engine without the computer, etc. I would
strongly recommend buying the engine complete; and would consider buying
another one to get the remaining parts. One nice thing about the 22RET 2.3L
"truck" engine (even in the Celicas, 20Rs and 22Rs are still slow revving
truck engines - sorry, the truth hurts...) is that they have good torque,
even with mine running 7.5:1 compression ratio. This is good for a turbo
engine, since you want some bottom end before the turbo kicks in to improve
the top end power. That is, if I ever get thing boosted.... BZ
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 13:40:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: TVIS SYSTEM
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
I believe that the TVIS system is activated by engine vacuum and a
electronic valve. The 4 extra intake runners are closed when vacuum is
applied to the actuator.
So, if you want to get an idea of what it would feel like with all 8 intake
runners open all the time, simply disconnect the vacuum line that goes to
the actuator. It is located underneath the intake manifold.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 18:51:18 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mjb174@psu.edu (Marlin James Bailor)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Marlin Bailor
Location: State College, PA
Model: '85 MR2
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: None, Looking to install struts, exhaust, and tires for '96
autocross season.
email: mjb174@email.psu.edu
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TVIS SYSTEM
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 95 09:11:02 +1000
From: Peter Mejak
Bryan Zublin writes :-
I believe that the TVIS system is activated by engine vacuum and a
electronic valve. The 4 extra intake runners are closed when vacuum is
applied to the actuator.
So, if you want to get an idea of what it would feel like with all 8 intake
runners open all the time, simply disconnect the vacuum line that goes to
the actuator. It is located underneath the intake manifold.
I ask :-
So does this mean that TVIS will operate even if a non-standard ECU
is being used with the engine? Anyone know for sure how it operates?
I'm asking as I'm considering putting one of these in my KE30 'rolla
& will be going with a non-factory ECU if I do.
TIA,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 20:17:13 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mjb174@psu.edu (Marlin James Bailor)
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
>Name: Marlin Bailor
>Location: State College, PA
>Model: '85 MR2
>Engine: 4A-GE
>Mods: None, Looking to install struts, exhaust, and tires for '96
>autocross season.
>email: mjb174@email.psu.edu
>
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 20:34:33 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mjb174@psu.edu (Marlin James Bailor)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Marlin Bailor
Location: State College PA
Model: '85 MR2
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: None, Struts, exhaust, and tires are in the works.
email: mjb174@email.psu.edu
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 22:45:16 -0700 (MST)
To: chan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Jeff Chan),
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: TVIS SYSTEM
At 11:07 PM 10/25/95 -0700, Jeff Chan wrote:
>> Recently on the toyota digest, some were discussing the TVIS system
>>on the 85-89 MK I NA 4AGE motor. ... The main thing I want to discuss is
>>if the stock TVIS system is restricting the HP gains on this motor, what
>>are our options for a STREET LEGAL replacement of the TVIS system? ...
>>Most important, how much hp increase are we talking for these injection
>>systems over the stock system? I want REAL numbers. Also will the stock
>>computer work with these injection systems? And last but not least, does
>>anyone know the price on a Haltech E5 computer or had any experience with
>>it or other computers?
Does anyone know of a way to make the TVIS open a little earlier ? The TVIS
opens at like 4200-4300 RPM which is hardly noticable with stock components,
but once you get a decent exhaust and air filter, its a pretty noticable
change.. so I was thinking that if you could move it to like 3800 or so, you
might be able to take advantage of the increased flow.. just a thought..
>course they talk to each other. I too am trying to figure out
>what to do with this engine beyond the exhaust & pflow that a
>previous owner put on... Other comments/suggestions/experiences
>welcome.
Why not get the TRD header.. made a damn big difference for me at RPM..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 22:45:22 -0700 (MST)
To: Peter Mejak ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Tornado
Cc: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Probably true. The only real way to guage its effectiveness would
> be before & after tests -- dyno, 1/4 mile, 0-100km/h, in-gear
> acceleration figures etc. Same goes for all mods. In fact, I've
> read a few stories about things like aftermarket "Hot Chips" that
> actually DECREASE performance. A good rule of thumb is to ask the
> seller to back up their claims with a before & after dyno run. If
> they're unwilling to do this, I'd be wary of their product.
>
So true.. my friend took some "chips" down to Mechtech in San Diego and
tested them on the dyno there, Superchips really did bad.. he's coming out
with a chip that is guaranteed to work, and its backed up with a before and
after dyno run.. if you want more info, call them at Dynamic Autosports
(714) 457-1234 or visit their site at http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic ...
for you guys that went to SEMA, if you happened to see the DynoJet booth..
the "sample" one they took there is going to his shop right afterwards :)..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 1995 23:25:04 -0700 (MST)
To: Brent Matthew Dye ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Blitz's Twin SBC
At 05:15 PM 10/21/95 -0400, Brent Matthew Dye wrote:
> I have been wondering about the Blitz's Twin SBC (Solenoid Boost
>Controller) ever since I saw it on the Toyota WWW page. It claims twin
>turbo responce from a single turbo (i.e. reduction in turbo lag--which we
>all could do without). My questions for anyone who has this item or knows
>about it is: are the claims legitimate, do you have to install other
>Blitz products FIRST (these companies love to pull that money trap on
>you!), and how much does this cost? If it's as good as it sounds, they
>might as well consider my money theirs =).
>
I saved this message cuz I wanted to reply to it, almost forgot about it..
but anyways..
I don't think anyone can say that a boost control will make a "single turbo
respond like a twin turbo", but it can definitely help the lag situation.
I'm no expert or anything, but this is my basic explanation of how an
electronically regulated boost control works:
You have a wastegate that is either "built in" to the turbo (integral), or
an external one, like an HKS Racing Wastegate. If you look at your turbo
(assumeing you still have the stock one), its the thing that looks like a
little "can" (the actuator) type thing, with two little "nipples" coming off
of it, and a long shaft coming out of the bottom that is attached to a
little "trap door" type thing (sounds sexual doesnt it).. anyways, you have
a vacuum line that is attached to the actuator, which is made (from the
factory) to open at a preset boost level. So, when your car hits, say 10
psi, then it pushes the the rod which opens the trap door to bleed the
excess exhaust gases so that they don't pass over the exhaust turbine wheel,
creating more boost. When you use an electronic boost control, it does not
open the wastegate actuator until it hits your predetermined boost level.
Whereas a manual boost control (like HKS VBC and GReddy TVVS), it is
basically a valve that restricts or bleeds off just enough pressure, so that
the wastegate opens up later (more boost). The problem with the manual one
is that there is no "on and off" so lets say you set your VBC to open at
15psi. At 13 psi its already creeping the wastegate open, which inevitably
decreases boost response. SO, the Blitz Twin SBC and HKS EVC will both
increase boost response. Whereas, a VBC or TVVS will serve its purpose,
but not necessarily raise boost response.. whew!
And the answer to the second part of the question, no. You will probably
want to get a low restriction exhaust and intake setup though.
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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From: Gary Hong
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Greetings from SEMA - Day ][
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 95 3:42:08 PDT
Dudes -- get me a NOS catalog....
thanks!
Gary
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Date: Fri, 27 Oct 1995 09:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: TVIS SYSTEM
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
>Bryan Zublin writes :-
>I believe that the TVIS system is activated by engine vacuum and a
>electronic valve. The 4 extra intake runners are closed when vacuum is
>applied to the actuator.
>So, if you want to get an idea of what it would feel like with all 8 intake
>runners open all the time, simply disconnect the vacuum line that goes to
>the actuator. It is located underneath the intake manifold.
> I ask :-
> So does this mean that TVIS will operate even if a non-standard ECU
> is being used with the engine? Anyone know for sure how it
operates?
> Peter.
The TVIS actuator is enabled / controlled by an electronic valve, which is
controlled by a signal from the ECU. If the switching point of the valve is
based solely on engine RPM (around 4250 rpm), then one could control it
using a circuit that senses the engine RPM only. Check the wiring diagram
for the MR2, to see where the signal comes from. Connect a voltmeter to the
control line from the ECU, and observe it while you rev up the engine with
the transmission in neutral. The voltage should change from close to 0V to
close to +14V (or vice versa) at the switching point. Repeat this test with
the car under full load (driving, gas pedal to the floor). If the RPM
switching point is the same in both cases, then I would guess that it is
based solely on RPM.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
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Date: Fri, 27 Oct 1995 17:51:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: Re: your boost spiking prblem
To: Mike Pittelkow
Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
On Fri, 27 Oct 1995, Mike Pittelkow wrote:
> I was wondering if you had solved the spiking problem you were having,
> and if you did, what did you do? Have you checked the bypass valve?
Nope, I sure haven't solved it. :( It got worse when I enlarged my
compressor wheel from Super-S to Super-H. Before my engine developed the
bad rod bearing, I usually had the EVC III set to .70-.72 bar (10.3
- 10.6 PSI) depending on weather conditions. Any higher and I would
overboost to .82 bar (12 psi) plus at some time or another, not often but
too often nonetheless, and worse the harder I accelerated. I generally
would use the scramble boost feature to get back .05 - .07 bar (.74 - 1.0
PSI) after I hit 5000+ rpm in second gear, or got into third, but I still
got into problems that depending on weather, how cold the engine was, and
how hard I was accelerating, plus at what time I pushed the scramble boost
button, that I would overboost it. At overboost of course the fuel cuts
off, the engine and driveline suffer shock from full acceleration to full
engine braking, and the spark plugs try to ignite funky, lean mixtures in
the combustion chamber.
I think it's going to take an upgraded, external wastegate to solve
the problem. I'm pretty much convinced that the stock wastegate can't
handle the much higher airflow I was getting over stock. It's too small a
hole and can't bleed air off fast enough to prevent spiking. In theory
an electronic controller could anticipate the spike and open more earlier
to prevent it, but as far as I can tell the EVC III isn't quite smart
enough to handle it. The problem is that you can't calibrate such action
solely on boost or rpm, it has to also calibrate by rate of change of
rpm/boost and I don't think the EVC III does that. I think it calibrates
just on boost level, forms a map of what bleed amount should be delivered
at any given boost level to arrive at the preset boost level.
Of course, the reason that overboosting/spiking is such a big deal to
me is that I'm still running the stock fuel computer, which cuts off
boost around 12 PSI. Under ordinary conditions, unless you're running
your engine on the ragged edge, a second or two of a couple extra PSI of
boost won't do any harm. If I had an upgraded fuel computer (and
upgraded fuel system to prevent those extra PSI from leaning the engine)
the boost spiking wouldn't be such a problem.
I'm pretty confident that my race-prepped rebuilt engine will handle
20 PSI of boost, with the larger head gasket, coated pistons, stress
relieved rods etc. It's probably going to be a couple months before I
can afford the fuel system upgrade to get 20 PSI, but that's where I plan
to go.
Aaron B.
P.S. It looks like this coming week may finally be the last I am
Supra-less! Everyone wish me luck. :)
P.P.S. I saw a Supra SE on the way to work this morning. I hadn't
realized they were available yet. That's the stripper Supra right?
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From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 1995 21:35:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Will 3-TC carb fit?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Chris Hillard had asked,
>I have a '77 Corolla Liftback with a 2T-C. The carb is
>screwed due to a rebuild fiasco and I need a replacement.
>I spied a station wagon of similar year in a salvage yard
>and it has a 3T-C. The carb looks identical except for some
>wiring. My 2T has a black and a red wire going to the
>electric choke and this 3T (a corona station wagon) has
>three wires going to a plug: a red one and a black one
>going to the choke like on mine BUT there is also a
>green one going to a sensor.
Hey Chris,
Rather than go though all the hassle of trial and error with a low
power carb that is not flexible to tune. Why don't you save your money
until you can get a Weber 32 -36 DGAV or similar down draft with
an adaptor to fit the manifold.
You might spend $200.00-$300.00 for all the parts but ,
oooh! what a feeling!! About 30% more horse power
with less hassle and you can tune it with what ever future
modifications you do.
If your concern is just to low-buck it with even less hassle.
Just try to find an exact replacement.
The 11th Commandment :
"Thou shall not hassle"
Good luck,
Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto / exporter@delphi.com
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Date: Fri, 27 Oct 1995 23:18:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: EXPORTER@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Will 3-TC carb fit?
> Hey Chris,
>
> Rather than go though all the hassle of trial and error with a low
> power carb that is not flexible to tune. Why don't you save your money
> until you can get a Weber 32 -36 DGAV or similar down draft with
> an adaptor to fit the manifold.
>
> You might spend $200.00-$300.00 for all the parts but ,
> oooh! what a feeling!! About 30% more horse power
> with less hassle and you can tune it with what ever future
> modifications you do.
>
> If your concern is just to low-buck it with even less hassle.
> Just try to find an exact replacement.
I agree with part of this. The 32/36 DGV is a great carb and may be
the best choice for replacement of the stock carb, but don't expect a
30% increase in power. You will get a small but noticable gain in power
from the DGV, but will also get much better throttle response with the
mechanical secondary on the DGV. Also, it is FAR better to modify the
stock intake manifold to accept the DGV than to use an addapter plate!
Also, I assume that you all know that webber main jets fit perfectly in
the stock aisan carbs used in most Toyotas. There are also some other
cool mods you can do to the stock carb to get more steam and better
drivability. The stock carbs are really pretty good. Starlet Group A
rally cars can produce 115HP with the stock carb where stock is 58HP!
An example of one of the cool mods: construct an L-shaped piece of
aluminium using stock from a thick beverage can such as Fosters Lager so
that it fits tightly in the float bowl above the main jets but clears the
float. Make sure it is wedged very tightly in place. This creates a
little anti-splash reservior above the main jets so that they don't suck
air on very rough roads or during cornering and abrupt driving.
I have a few more if anyone is interested.
Craig.
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From: RamziM2@aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 1995 14:52:17 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Sebring Sport Muffler
In case any of you are interested in a sport muffler for the MKI MR2. I
purchased a Sebring muffler and i am happy with it.
It has a deep note with a throaty exhaust note when accellerating, especially
when the engine is cold. .
Installation was a hassle though because it did not bolt exactly to the
catalytic
converter. Another problem is that the Sebring muffler is designed to work
without the catalytic. So with the catit gives too much back pressure. I
would guess with the cat. i got about 2-4hp max and tourque i did feal
improvement (probably 7?). If you remove thecat. however i believe it would
be a perfect muffler (probably the
best) it sounds great and the volume goes away when you rolup the
windows. and It looks very good!
ramzi
86 Mr2
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Date: Sat, 28 Oct 1995 21:34:49 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Blounce (Originally from AdeM@WAIRC.GOVT.NZ)
Wow! Both inf* and h*lp within the first 5 lines! That's a first, Ade!
I'm reposting this blounce for Adrienne.
Chris
------------------Begin Reposted Message-------------------------------
Hi there.
Sorry to post about any other car apart from our beloved Toyotas, but my
boyfriend would like some info and can't get any help from the Honda list.
He's got a CRX ... 1984 (ex japan), 1.5 injected, one cam, 12 valves. He's
gonna buy a cam from Chris and needs to know what sort of grind to get. As
far as he understands, cams can't increase hp ..... just move it in the rev
range. He wants to move the HP down the rev range a bit and broaden the
power band if possible. He doesn't want the car too "lumpy" at idle and
doesn't want it so radical that he would have to upgrade the stock fuel
delivery system.
So, got any ideas??
Ade
'86 SC MR2 with Stillen cross drilled brakes!! (self installed ... of
course!) Woo hooo : )
adem@wairc.govt.nz or reply directly to steve: stephenw@wairc.govt.nz
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Sat, 28 Oct 95 21:33:12 -0700
From: "Timo R\dikk\vnen"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Turboed 4AGE...
Hi
I need a header (castiron) for my -88 FWD Toyota FX Gti 16 valve (GTS in
USA - i think).
I have installed a aftermarket turbo with selfmade exhaust header. The
header cracks every now and then. I'd like to have a better one. I have
heard about some castiron headers from SK in Japan, but the comany is not
alive anymore.
Do u know any such items? Also any other parts such as good clutch etc.
needed (stock is weeping).
Thank's for any information.
Timo & 190hp FWD Toyota (traikkonen@c2000.fi)
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Development
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 11:25:45 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TVIS!!!!
> Dear All,
> I would please like to discuss more on the TVIS system on my '85 MR2
> 4AGE motor. The questions are:
>
> 1) Has anyone changed the RPM at which the TVIS system switches over
> (lowered the rpm at which it opens), and if so, can anyone explain
> to me in plain english how to do this?
>
> 2) Would doing this have any advantages? Because when driving the car
> it feels like if the TVIS system were activated at a lower rpm (say
> 3500) you could get the power going earlier.
Have you ever seen a torque curve of the 4AGE? If you did open it up
earlier, I don't think you'd want it much earlier. With it's closed,
torque peaks at about 97 ft/lbs @ 4000 RPM. (I'm doing this from
memory) It then drops slightly, and minimizes at 4400 RPM maybe 90
ft/lbs or so. At this point, the TVIS opens, and torque starts to rise
again, reaching 97 ft/lbs at 4800, then slowly drops to redline. So at
4000 RPM, you are getting good torque with it closed. From the data I
have, it's actually slightly more than the max rated torque of 97 @
4800.
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Bullfrog???
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 14:11:05 -0500 (EST)
To All Toyota Lovers,
Has anyone had any experience with the Gude Performance Bullfrog
Throttle Body Conversion? I saw it in the Options Auto Salon catalog and
they claim a 5 to 10% increase in horsepower. You send them your factory
throttle body and for about $250 they clean it up, rebore it up to 6mm
oversized, install a more active butterfly plate, reassemble the throttle
body and recalibrate the throttle position sensor. If anyone has had
experience with this modification and/or any other similar conversion,
please discuss it with me. They say that "after this conversion, your
engine will be supplied with more airflow and the car will be more lively
and responsive". Advertising, but if anyone has experience with it, I'd
like to know about it. Sounds like a worthwhile investment.
- Aly
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
'85 MR2 normally aspirated
looking for a little more power
and the most cost effective mods
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Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 20:46:49 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: chan@internews.com (Jeff Chan)
Subject: Re: TVIS!!!!
(aly abulkheir writes:)
>2) Would doing this have any advantages? Because when driving the car
> it feels like if the TVIS system were activated at a lower rpm (say
> 3500) you could get the power going earlier.
>
>3) Is this rpm set because of the best power for the engine?
#2 No. #3 Yes. You get more power (torque) at low rpm with the
second set of runners closed. Quoting myself from last week:
TVIS is the Variable Induction System
which delays the opening of the second set of (4) intake runners
until a certain rpm is reached. Using a single runner per
cylinder when the flow rate is low (e.g., at low rpm) helps keep
air velocities high for better charge filling (ram tuning effect).
--
Jeff Chan
chan@internews.com
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 00:21:48 -0500 (EST)
To: chan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Jeff Chan),
From: Santiago Oleas
Subject: Re: TVIS!!!!
At 08:46 PM 10/30/95 -0800, Jeff Chan wrote:
>(aly abulkheir writes:)
>>2) Would doing this have any advantages? Because when driving the car
>> it feels like if the TVIS system were activated at a lower rpm (say
>> 3500) you could get the power going earlier.
>>
>>3) Is this rpm set because of the best power for the engine?
>
>#2 No. #3 Yes. You get more power (torque) at low rpm with the
>second set of runners closed. Quoting myself from last week:
>
>TVIS is the Variable Induction System
>which delays the opening of the second set of (4) intake runners
>until a certain rpm is reached. Using a single runner per
>cylinder when the flow rate is low (e.g., at low rpm) helps keep
>air velocities high for better charge filling (ram tuning effect).
>--
>Jeff Chan
>chan@internews.com
Hello,
Just to add to Mr. Chan's explanation, I think an analogy would benefit
those who don't fully understand the TVIS. I know this from experience
because I had to have it explained using this analogy before I understood
why two runners less implied more power at lower RPM.
Think of a hose that has little water flowing through it. You get more
spray (more velocity) when you cover part of the opening with your finger.
However, if the flow of the water is very high, having your finger cover
part of the opening will only hinder it.
--
Santiago Oleas
Montreal, Canada
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 01:43:30 -0700 (MST)
To: aly abulkheir ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Bullfrog???
At 02:11 PM 10/30/95 -0500, aly abulkheir wrote:
>To All Toyota Lovers,
> Has anyone had any experience with the Gude Performance Bullfrog
>Throttle Body Conversion? I saw it in the Options Auto Salon catalog and
>they claim a 5 to 10% increase in horsepower. You send them your factory
>throttle body and for about $250 they clean it up, rebore it up to 6mm
>oversized, install a more active butterfly plate, reassemble the throttle
>body and recalibrate the throttle position sensor. If anyone has had
>experience with this modification and/or any other similar conversion,
>please discuss it with me. They say that "after this conversion, your
>engine will be supplied with more airflow and the car will be more lively
>and responsive". Advertising, but if anyone has experience with it, I'd
>like to know about it. Sounds like a worthwhile investment.
>
First of all, I will go toe to toe with anyone who would like to "discuss"
Gude "Performance" Products. My friends shop was one of the first to carry
his product, and probably the first to stop also. My four major grips are
as follows:
1. He made a cam grind for the 1990-1993 Integras. My friend was the first
to get it. After being installed (and guaranteed that it was the dyno
tested to produce 15 hp), it trashed his motor. The cam had so much valve
lift, it bound the springs, pushing the valve deeper that it should, but we
didn't know that at the time. He denied all wrong doing. After the motor
was replaced he brought a "revised" cam grind. After istalling the cam on
the head, they tried rotating the cam in the journals, at which point they
noticed the valve springs binding. He still would not admit to wrong doing,
and would only pay for half of the used motor, nothing for labor. If you
talk to him, ask him about the 1990 Integra, Red from Dynamic Autosports
back in early 1993, owner's name is Andy Kim.
2. He told my friend he would build him an Integra motor. Told him he'd
use Arias pistons, a custom Crower crank, Carillo rods, big ass head port,
dual Webers, crazy cam, etc., etc. My friend handed over $5000 before he
got the car back. During his break in period, about 30 hours after getting
the car back, the motor seizes, on the freeway. The motor is taken to JG
Engine Dynamics for disassembly. Inside they found stock rods, just
shotpeened. Venolia pistons with excessively large pistion to wall
clearances, mild head port, stock crank shaft. When he complained to Bill
Gude, he denied any wrong doing. Eventually, he gave back $800 only after
my friend signed a waiver stating he would not pursuit the matter any
further. Ask Bill about Drew DelMonico's 1991 Integra, 4 door, Dark Blue
back in early 1994.
3. He sells a camshaft for the 1992-1995 Honda Civic with the SOHC wanna-be
VTEC motor (125hp). He claimed to have designed the cam with Japanese
tuners while in Japan. He calimed excessive horsepower numbers, and said it
must utilize a modified VTEC motion assembly. After some comparison, and
later a test to disprove him, we found out that he was not modifying
anything, just charging an extre $250 for his so-called "modification".
4. In Souther California, there is an Integra that runs a 150 shot of
nitrous (direct port) with dual carbs. He runs consistent low 13s in the
1/4 with an occasional high 12. At one of the first Battle of the Imports
in Palmdale California, he was paid by Bill Gude to run him "Its All Gude"
sticker and to use his cam. After 2 runs, during time trials, the motor
blew. At the next battle, the owner used a JG camshaft, but Gude still paid
him to run the sticker, and keep his mouth shut.
I do not have a very high opinion about this guy. I'm glad you gave his
price, $250 ? Haha, I got mine done by JG Engine Dynamics for $150. It was
bored out about 4mm (can't go anymore, stock is really tight) and he fitted
it with a stainless steel butterfly. Throttle response was much better, I
suppose it may have made a difference (after all, 10% increase on a 112 hp
motor is damn small). All the Honda owners I talk to love them though.
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 04:10:31 -0800
To: RamziM2@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: FX-16 Sport Springs?
On Oct 29, 11:41am, RamziM2@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: FX-16 Sport Springs?
Ramzi,
> My brother has an 87 FX16 GTS, he has tokico shocks but is now looking for a
> good sport spring like Eibach, Suspensn Techniq, etc. Anybody know of who
> makes a good lowering spring for this car?
Stick with Eibachs if you are looking for progressive rate springs.
In comparison to Suspension Technique springs the Eibach has a better ride
quality. Give Chris Myers a jingle. He is the admin of the ToyMods list see
what he could do in the sense of prices.
Latas,
Allan
--
*******************************************************************************
Allan Chen A peak disturbs the horizon. The wave builds as it
Silicon Graphics Inc. slowly crumbles. A lone man races the crest hoping
Mountain View, CA for the moment where wave, board, and rider becomes
allanc@sgi.com one... Only a surfer knows the feeling.
*******************************************************************************
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 09:18:10 -0600
From: "Gary M. Bowling"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: mr2 mods mailing list
I would like to be added to the toyota-mods mailing list
gmb@shell.com Gary Bowling
thanks, gary
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 10:59:43 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: hellyer@noc.tor.hookup.net (Roger Smith)
Subject: Tokico shocks
Okay, hopefully this will work this time.
I have been having problems with bouncing mail, I appoligize if I have not
responded to any email you may have sent me.
I will check Suspension Warehouse out. As for the CDN-US exchange
rate, after last nights refferundum (Quebec lost in there vote to seperate)
The CDN dollar has stabalised at $.75 to the US dollar.
>On Oct 24, 6:56am, ROGERS wrote:
>> Subject: Re: Me/Mine/Mods
>
>Hey Roger,
>
> Long time no see... well atleast text-wise :^).
>
>> If anyone knows of a cheap(er) source where I can get the Tokico illuminas (5
>> way adjustable ) please let me know, (I was quoted $220 CDN + 15%) *EACH*
>plus
>> they would take 2 weeks to get them!
>
> Hmmm, what is the current exhange rate for CDN to $US? Well, here are
>a couple of places to check out.
>
> For Tokico Illuminas (5-way adjustables):
>
> Suspension Warehouse 303-494-1975 $103.00 each
>
> For GAB (8-way adjustables):
>
> RD Enterprises 800-683-2890 $164.63 each
> Suspension Warehouse 303-494-1975 199.00 each
> Mazda Competition Parts 173.90 each
>
> BTW, these are price quotes for 3rd gen RX7's, shipping excluded. And
>if all else... check out Chris' prices. See what he could swing ya.
>
>Latas,
>Allan
-----------------------------
Roger Smith
Macintosh Project Lead
Gold Disk Inc.
Internet: rogers@golddisk.com
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 11:23:36 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: hellyer@noc.tor.hookup.net (Roger Smith)
Subject: Re: was something on 4AGE
Cc: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Okay,
I hope this gets through.....,
As for the 4AGE, this engine has lots of potential, unfortunately all of
the racers I know who have modified it, have junked the TVIS/stock fuel
system and gone with carbs/aftermarket fuel injection. I remember reading
in a British mag, that the stock toyota fuel system/ecu is only good for
handling a few more BHP (I think they maxed it at 145 BHP), (i'll try to
dig the article up, but the exact number might be in an old posting).
While aftermarket ignition and filters may add up to a modest 15
BHP or slightly more, if you want to go into the 160+ BHP and higher, you
will need additional fuelling requirements, instead of spending money on an
MSD, and other peripherals, why don't you save and buy a whole system such
as an electromotive or haltech, or heaven forbid, the complete TRD engine
control kit.
Cams make a world of difference on the 4AGE, however all of the "agressive"
ones require additional fuelling requirements that the stock ECU can't cope
with. I hope I don't come across to negative, but It is very easy to spend
lots of unecessary money in the process of modifying the 4AGE. In fact if I
had to start over on my starlet, I would have invested more time getting
the suspension/brakes/wheels properly sorted out, (IMHO your car will feel
that much much faster if it handles and brakes like a demon)
I think FredO went the same way you are planning, i.e he modified his 4AGE
until he got to the point where he replaced the ECU with an electromotive
one. What is your planned intention for this car?
>>Regarding your letter on the Illuminas. That price of 220 each is outrageous.
>>I paid half that. I bought them from Autotrend in Long Island,
NNew York for about $105 a piece and installed them myself, it's very easy
with a Haynes Automotive Repair Manual. Call Fernando at Autotrend, I
believe the number is (516) 483-7760. He is on Front Street in Heampstead
Long Island and he can ship them to you as fast as you want them. If you
have an SCCA membership, you will get the price I paid, if not you may pay
a little more, but it will still be a lot less than $220 a piece. You can
also ask Fernando Maldonado any questions regarding other performance
stuff. He is a RX-7 racing champion and is famous for his victories at Lime
Rock Park and other tracks.
>>Please email me with your results and let's discuss our modifications. I have
>>an '85 MR2 with all options and I am planning to repaint it and add about a
>>30% hp increase in the next two years with things like a K&N universal air
>>filter, a Crane HI-6 (or MSD 6A) ignition, Jode Bullfrog throttle body
>>injection mod, TRD Header, and later an HKS exhaust and cams. I am doing the
>>exhaust later because of the price and the fact that I just replaced the
>>exhaust with a brand new stock one.
>>What kind of Toyota do you have?
I drive a 83 starlet with a modified 4AGE.....
-----------------------------
Roger Smith
Macintosh Project Lead
Gold Disk Inc.
Internet: rogers@golddisk.com
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 12:54:32 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: rogers@golddisk.com (Roger Smith)
Subject: Email addressing
Hi All,
I am in the process of revamping my email access, please do not
respond to the previous addresses of hellyer@noc.tor.hookup.net. I think
everything should work properly now, with the bonus that I will no longer
have the strange email address.. Ya welcome to the 90's.
-----------------------------
Roger Smith
Macintosh Project Lead
Gold Disk Inc.
Internet: rogers@golddisk.com
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From: acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Brake pads
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 14:26: 8 CST
Hi all,
I'm upgrading a bit and it's time to replace the brake pads on
my 85 MR2. I autocross from time to time and want something that
is really full on starting from cold. They never get hot enough
in most autocrosses to do well if they are road race pads. Anyone
have suggestions based on experience?
Al
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 12:46:40 -0700 (MST)
From: Lance Heinrich
Subject: Re: Brake pads
To: acram@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Stock toyota pads. I autox a LOT. That's all I use. I even do the
occassional lapping session on our 2 mile road course. No problems.
Lance.
---------------------------------------------------------------
| Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
| lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
|
| 1991 MR2 Turbo
| Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged
On Tue, 31 Oct 1995 acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu wrote:
> Hi all,
> I'm upgrading a bit and it's time to replace the brake pads on
> my 85 MR2. I autocross from time to time and want something that
> is really full on starting from cold. They never get hot enough
> in most autocrosses to do well if they are road race pads. Anyone
> have suggestions based on experience?
>
> Al
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 15:17:08 -0800 (PST)
From: "KeNdRiCk W."
To: toyota mods ,
Subject: hi
Today, i had my exhaust changed. anyways, after i got home, i realized
there's a strong burning smell from under the car. when i checked the
engine i realized one of hte spark plug wires was pulled out! So i was
basically running with three plugs
my car is' a 93MR2 turbo. I was wondering what would be the consequence
of running with one of the plug wire out? and what is that burning smell
from? the car was running fine, turbo came on nicely so i didn't know
something was wrong til i got home and smell that strong burning odor.
please comment
93'Turbo |\__/+--+-\____ |-\ /-|-----\|-----\
@49.3k Km |_--##---------=>| \/ | |_) /|--) _)
@== "(*)------(*)-/ | |\/| | _ < __/ /__
=[KeNdRiCk W.]= "Betty" |_| |_|_| \_\|_______|
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 20:44:59 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Bullfrog???
Um, nothing about Bullfrog, but Aric's note made me think of a few
things. Always, ALWAYS check all of your clearances after you reassemble,
whether from a complete rebuild or just a cam upgrade. Spring bind
is all too common.
Crane Cams recommends an additional .060" of clearance when the valve
is in the full open position. If you don't have that much room, you'll
either have to get a spring that allows this, or you'll have to get
your valve seats machined a little bit lower.
Other things to look for:
-The distance between the valve spring retainer and the valve stem
guide should be at least .060" when the valve is fully open.
-In slotted-rocker applications (doesn't apply to OHC setups), you must
ensure that the slot is long enough to allow the rocker a full range
of motion. (Most folks say that you should be able to slip a wire the
size of a standard paper clip inside the slot with the valve fully
open.)
-Make sure that only the contact portion of the rocker arm touches only
the top of the valve. In other words, ensure the arm doesn't hit on
the spring retainer at the outside edge of the retainer. Allow at least
.040" of clearance at this point.
-Make sure you have at lease .100" of valve to piston clearance on the
intake side, and .120" on the exhaust side. (This is especially true if
you have changed the pistons! Use modeling clay on the top of the pistons
to get a read on this clearance. Isky makes a special cutter that
installs in the valve stem guide to allow you to cut reliefs in the
piston with them right in the engine.)
BTW, another way to check valve-to-piston clearance is by installing
a very soft valve spring, turning the engine until the valve to be tested
is at maximum lift, and then pressing on the valve by hand until it
(gently) hits the top of the piston. The distance between the rocker and
valve mating surfaces with the valve contacting the piston is the valve-
to-piston clearance.
Hope this is useful!
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 21:23:58 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: 3TC pistons
I just found a phenomenal deal if anyone is interested in it. I got a
flyer from Race Engineering down in Lake Worth, FL (south of me) and
they have 3 89mm domed 3TC Avenger pistons for $50. Thats right, they
only have 3 left and they're dumping them at $50 for all three. Now,
the trick is going to be getting another Avenger piston to finish the
set, but I'll try to help anyone out if they are interested in this.
Let me know. I may just scoop these up myself, although I don't have
any 3T projects now or in the near future. That's just too good of a
deal to pass up!
(Beth, mention this to Jeff and see if he's interested.)
Chris
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