^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ P O S T I N G S Nov 1995 ^^^
^^^ --------------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: hi
To: levoc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (KeNdRiCk W.)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 02:55:43 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> Today, i had my exhaust changed. anyways, after i got home, i realized
> there's a strong burning smell from under the car. when i checked the
> engine i realized one of hte spark plug wires was pulled out! So i was
> basically running with three plugs
>
> my car is' a 93MR2 turbo. I was wondering what would be the consequence
> of running with one of the plug wire out? and what is that burning smell
> from? the car was running fine, turbo came on nicely so i didn't know
> something was wrong til i got home and smell that strong burning odor.
While three cylinder burning the fuel, the 4th injector was still
supplying fuel. This fuel got sucked to the exhaust, probably
burning in your exhaust manifold and turbo, heating them considerably,
causing the smell. Probably no damage, unless you travelled long
periods of time at (high) boost.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 09:52:22 +0500
From: toyota@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jonathan Hacker (Toyota))
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: hi
> > Today, i had my exhaust changed. anyways, after i got home, i realized
> > there's a strong burning smell from under the car. when i checked the
> > engine i realized one of hte spark plug wires was pulled out! So i was
> > basically running with three plugs
> >
> > my car is' a 93MR2 turbo. I was wondering what would be the consequence
> > of running with one of the plug wire out? and what is that burning smell
> > from? the car was running fine, turbo came on nicely so i didn't know
> > something was wrong til i got home and smell that strong burning odor.
If one plug was misfiring then you would have a very rich mixture in
the exhaust. This mix would oxidize in the catalytic converter making
it extremely hot. Hopefully it was a short trip home because
eventually the catalyst will get so hot it will melt, permanently
damaging it.
Its also worth noting that new exhausts tend to smell for the
first few hours because of the oils, paint and so on left
from the manufacturing process. Hopefully that is the
actual cause of the burning smell.
Jon
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: The cat
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 11:15:35 -0500 (EST)
To all,
Has anyone removed their catalytic converter on a 4AGE or similar
motor and Truly Passed a real State inspection Emissions Test? I don't mean
paying someone to have it passed. I mean a real emissions test. I am not
too fond of removing it because of what I learned from Chemistry 101 of what
comes out of an engine before it reaches the cat, but if it will give the
car a little more power and allow certain exhaust systems to be put on more
easily, I will consider the possibility of removing it. I just don't want
to remove it (or hollow it out as I have seen some people do) then get to an
emmisions test, find it won't pass, and then be stuck having to buy a new
cat. That would be terrible. If anyone has passed a true emissions test
without a catalytic converter attached during the test, and did not pay the
station to pass it, please respond.
Thank you,
Aly
'85 MR2, all options
Looking for a little more power
the best handling,
and the most cost effective mods
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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From: Gary Hong
To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: The cat
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 95 10:55:49 PST
From: aly abulkheir
>
>To all,
> Has anyone removed their catalytic converter on a 4AGE or similar
>motor and Truly Passed a real State inspection Emissions Test? I don't mean
>paying someone to have it passed. I mean a real emissions test. I am not
>too fond of removing it because of what I learned from Chemistry 101 of what
>comes out of an engine before it reaches the cat, but if it will give the
>car a little more power and allow certain exhaust systems to be put on more
>easily, I will consider the possibility of removing it. I just don't want
>to remove it (or hollow it out as I have seen some people do) then get to an
>emmisions test, find it won't pass, and then be stuck having to buy a new
>cat. That would be terrible. If anyone has passed a true emissions test
>without a catalytic converter attached during the test, and did not pay the
>station to pass it, please respond.
Yes, THIS I would like to know. I live in CA and this would be beneficial to
those in Cali.
Gary
22R Celica
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Date: Wed, 01 Nov 1995 12:31:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: The cat
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
The presence of the catalytic converter is probably the most important item
that the mechanic will check when doing the visual inspection. If it has
been replaced by a test pipe, he will know. However, if you replace it with
a look-alike low restriction "pre silencer" or simply remove the guts, then
you can probably get away with the visual inspection. It still has to pass
the sniff test, however.
Find an old cat, remove the guts, install it, and take the car to a "pass or
don't pay" station. If it passes, you have your answer. If it doesn't,
then you pay nothing.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: abulkh34; toyota-mods
Subject: Re: The cat
Date: Wednesday, November 01, 1995 10:55AM
From: aly abulkheir
>
>To all,
> Has anyone removed their catalytic converter on a 4AGE or similar
>motor and Truly Passed a real State inspection Emissions Test? I don't
mean
>paying someone to have it passed. I mean a real emissions test. I am not
>too fond of removing it because of what I learned from Chemistry 101 of
what
>comes out of an engine before it reaches the cat, but if it will give the
>car a little more power and allow certain exhaust systems to be put on more
>easily, I will consider the possibility of removing it. I just don't want
>to remove it (or hollow it out as I have seen some people do) then get to
an
>emmisions test, find it won't pass, and then be stuck having to buy a new
>cat. That would be terrible. If anyone has passed a true emissions test
>without a catalytic converter attached during the test, and did not pay the
>station to pass it, please respond.
Yes, THIS I would like to know. I live in CA and this would be beneficial
to
those in Cali.
Gary
22R Celica
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Corporation
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 16:53:53 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: The cat
>
> To all,
> Has anyone removed their catalytic converter on a 4AGE or similar
> motor and Truly Passed a real State inspection Emissions Test?
If you remove it, you fail! regardless of test results, which they won't
even bother to run. You might even get a nice $5000 fine. Who Knows?
Mark
Whatever you do, put the thing back on before you ask a state inspection station
to look at it!!!
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From: reyb@wildcat.sandiegoca.attgis.com
Subject: Re: The cat
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 14:34:15 -0800 (PST)
>
> Find an old cat, remove the guts, install it
>
I've done this on my '86 4Runner(22RE) and found that it
does nada/zip/zilch for performance.
-Rey-
============================================================
Rey Berin Phone: (619) 485-3285
AT&T Global Information Solutions Fax: (619) 485-3010
17095 Via Del Campo
San Diego, CA 92127 Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.ATTGIS.COM
============================================================
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 18:57:00 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Brake pads
>Stock toyota pads. I autox a LOT. That's all I use. I even do the
>occassional lapping session on our 2 mile road course. No problems.
Gotta agree with Lance. If cold performance is an issue, you will
want to avoid performance brake pads.
Chris
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 19:08:53 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: The cat
>I've done this on my '86 4Runner(22RE) and found that it
>does nada/zip/zilch for performance.
I'll have to agree with Rey here, especially if you don't do any
"heavy" mods, such as upgrade the cam, etc. I once completely
disconnected my exhaust at the cat and took the pickup out for
some testing. I figured that top-end testing would be about
the best/most consistent way of going. I tried it with everything
hooked up, with just the breather open, with just the exhaust open,
and with both the breather and exhaust open. Result: Nothing, really.
I think that with both the breather and exhaust open, I got like
1 more mph at top speed. (Matti can give us a guesstimate of how many
hp this was.) Trust me, there was no boost off the line whatsoever.
Your results may be different if you try this in a turbo/super charged
car, but for a NA car, I wouldn't expect much difference.
Chris
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From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 1995 20:21:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 22-RTE
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>I have a '85 Celica GTS Conv. and I've been inquiring about
>possibly swapping engines. I was wondering if anyone in
>the mods group knew of, heard of, or even put a 22RTE in
>a Celica? Since it is a 22-RE base, I figure it should bolt
>right in, but will it fit? Any ideas on the $$'s of such a job?
>Is it even likely? Should I go that route, or can I upgrade
>the 22RE to the same power w/ less cost?
-culture
I Can make one suggestion, Replace your 22-RE head with
a 20-R engine head. It will bolt right on. It will raise your
compression about one full ratio and give you all around
better performance and more usable rpm. The 22-R Heads
in general have swirl combustion design to meet
stricter emission standards of its time. Unfortunately
it dose not have the performance potential of the 20-R
especially in the higher rpm. You will have to get rid of
the EFI and run carburetors instead. Most likely duel side
draft style for clearance.
Look for an older model 20-R head without a mechanical
fuel pump that bolts on the front of the head. You will
have to run a different electric fuel pump because the
one for the fuel injection is going to be too high a
pressure for carburetors which only needs about
4 to 8 lbs. max. Compared to your stock EFI pump which
puts out about 80 lbs..
The 22-RTE is a rare find (a least around here)
if your not too mechanically inclined . You can just
modify your 22-RE by just adding carburetors or bigger
fuel injectors. I like carbs myself compared to the stock
EFI the throttle response much is better.
Also keep in mind, if you think passing emissions will
be a problem in you area.
Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto / exporter@delphi.com
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From: Gary Hong
To: EXPORTER@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 22-RTE
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 95 18:46:49 PST
From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
>
>Look for an older model 20-R head without a mechanical
>fuel pump that bolts on the front of the head. You will
>have to run a different electric fuel pump because the
>one for the fuel injection is going to be too high a
>pressure for carburetors which only needs about
>4 to 8 lbs. max. Compared to your stock EFI pump which
>puts out about 80 lbs..
Isn't there a few different 20-R heads that differ between years?
Gary
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: throttle body
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 22:45:37 -0500 (EST)
Dear all,
I live in the NY area and I would like to know if anyone out there
has had their throttle body modified (bored out, better butterfly plate,
throttle position sensor recalibrated, etc.), where they had it done, and
how much it costs. I can travel anywhere in the NY,NJ,CT area. Even if you
don't live in this area, but have had experience with this type of
modification, please respond. We have Sarizer Motor Company (formerly Toy
Store East) nearby in NJ, but if anyone has had anyone else do it, please
do tell.
Thank you,
Aly
'85 MR2,red with ALL options
Looking for a little more power
the best handling
and the most cost effective mods
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 21:13:06 -0800 (PST)
From: "KeNdRiCk W."
To: toyota mods
Subject: hi
I was wondering if installing an external type airfilter like powerflow
or K&N injection kit in a MR2 (MKII) will have problems during the
winter when rain is abundant. I mean since water can enter the engine
compartment thru the engine cover vents and also along the lid edges, would
the airfilter get drenched if the car is parked in the rain all day or
even during car washing.
Ken..
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 00:03:57 -0700 (MST)
To: Gary Hong ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: The cat
>> Has anyone removed their catalytic converter on a 4AGE or similar
>>motor and Truly Passed a real State inspection Emissions Test? I don't mean
>>paying someone to have it passed. I mean a real emissions test. I am not
>>too fond of removing it because of what I learned from Chemistry 101 of what
>>comes out of an engine before it reaches the cat, but if it will give the
>>car a little more power and allow certain exhaust systems to be put on more
>>easily, I will consider the possibility of removing it. I just don't want
>>to remove it (or hollow it out as I have seen some people do) then get to an
>>emmisions test, find it won't pass, and then be stuck having to buy a new
>>cat. That would be terrible. If anyone has passed a true emissions test
>>without a catalytic converter attached during the test, and did not pay the
>>station to pass it, please respond.
>
>Yes, THIS I would like to know. I live in CA and this would be beneficial to
>those in Cali.
>
Well, in California you need to pass a *visual* inspection as well. Your
car can pass with flying colors but if the smog tech sees that you have no
cat, then he, by law, is supposed to fail you.
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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From: Gary Hong
To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, shafted@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: The cat
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 95 23:16:02 PST
>
>Well, in California you need to pass a *visual* inspection as well. Your
>car can pass with flying colors but if the smog tech sees that you have no
>cat, then he, by law, is supposed to fail you.
>% Aric Shen
Yeah, but who says we have to actually take the cat out? :) We can gut
the thing out!
Gary
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 00:17:47 -0700 (MST)
To: "KeNdRiCk W." ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: hi
At 09:13 PM 11/1/95 -0800, KeNdRiCk W. wrote:
>
>I was wondering if installing an external type airfilter like powerflow
>or K&N injection kit in a MR2 (MKII) will have problems during the
>winter when rain is abundant. I mean since water can enter the engine
>compartment thru the engine cover vents and also along the lid edges, would
>the airfilter get drenched if the car is parked in the rain all day or
>even during car washing.
>
>Ken..
>
I've never seen a Power Flow kit for the 85-87 MR2, but the 88-89 kit puts
the filter in the trunk.. I'm using a large size Power Flow (from my RX-7),
a piece of 4 inch "hose" and an adapter piece that bolts up to the air flow
meter, and YES, when it rains, it drenches the air filter.. I usually put a
plastic bag over the opening if I know it raining.. how does everyone else
put a filter on their 85-87 MR2 ? I'd like to know..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 07:20:16 GMT
From: Joe Gaffney
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 Kit Cars?
I am a new subscriber to this list. After driving (and fixing!) Rabbits
for years, I'm thinking about moving to a Toyota. I hadn't considered
Japanese cars before because I'm 6'2", 200#, and the ones I'd tried
just didn't fit like my Rabbit did. Then I tried an MR2...
These are great little cars! I'll get used to no back seat, I promise!
Then, I found www.mr2.com and this list. This is great! I never knew there
was such a following for this little car.
So, here's my question: I have a chance to pick up a Mk I cheap. It has
120k miles, and almost every panel is crinkly. The interior is pretty
ratty, too. But, she was religious about servicing the car, and it runs
great. I could pick it up for a project car and park the Rabbit outside.
I would want to re-body it, though. Does anyone know of a kit car for
the MR2? I'd be really interested in one that comes with its own frame.
I have visions of a Toyota sports racer for the street. A real summertime-
only car. I picked up a copy of Kit Car, but, other than 100 different Cobra kits,
the only ads were for Fiero re-bodies. Any help here....
Joe Gaffney
jgaffney@wco.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 01:29:32 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: MR-2 Kit Car
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 1 21:23:55 1995
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 07:20:16 GMT
From: Joe Gaffney
Subject: MR2 Kit Cars?
>I am a new subscriber to this list. After driving (and fixing!) Rabbits
>for years, I'm thinking about moving to a Toyota. I hadn't considered
>Japanese cars before because I'm 6'2", 200#, and the ones I'd tried
>just didn't fit like my Rabbit did. Then I tried an MR2...
Heh, the MR-2's have great space, belive it or not. I found them
rather comfortable (1987 & 1991) with lots of leg room.
>These are great little cars! I'll get used to no back seat, I promise!
Heh, whats a Back seat ? =)
>Then, I found www.mr2.com and this list. This is great! I never knew there
>was such a following for this little car.
Heh, Fear This =) There's quite a following for imports !
>So, here's my question: I have a chance to pick up a Mk I cheap. It has
>120k miles, and almost every panel is crinkly. The interior is pretty
>ratty, too. But, she was religious about servicing the car, and it runs
>great. I could pick it up for a project car and park the Rabbit outside.
Good project car, depends on what ya wanna do...
>I would want to re-body it, though. Does anyone know of a kit car for
>the MR2? I'd be really interested in one that comes with its own frame.
>I have visions of a Toyota sports racer for the street. A real summertime-
>only car. I picked up a copy of Kit Car, but, other than 100 different
>Cobra kits, the only ads were for Fiero re-bodies. Any help here....
I guess this is the reason why i responded.
It is possible to do the Lamborghini Kit on a MR-2, you can try contact
the Kit Car magazine dealer, they had a special on it sometime ago.
Something about Fieros being hard to find and the MR-2 having a better
platform in which to do it with.
Heck, I was ready to send my dang 8k for the bodykit =)
Get back to me, I haven't seen it since they first published it, proably
a no go anymore =(
Toyota's just aren't popular, although i'm sure they would do it if you
paid someone enough money to or bought the kit.
I belive the MR-2 is a better platform, i've ridden in and inspected the
creation of a Fiero model Lambo replica. Got one for sale at the moment
in the paper for 8k ha ha ha ...
>Joe Gaffney
>jgaffney@wco.com
Get back to me also =)
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
(*NOTE*) Can't "3 wheel" a Toyota, like Rabbits do, and the parts cost
slightly more =) Oh, don't break transmissions as much either !!
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| Allen T "Koji" Kam |
| Live Life... koji@mael.soet.Hawaii.edu |
| Taste Death... koji@ohana.com |
| Speed is Pure !!!!! |
| Don't let up till you see RED !! 1987 Toyota Corolla FX-16 GTS |
| Advan Racing / HKS / Jacobs / SSR / Toyota Racing Development / Yokohama |
| How SERIOUS do YOU wanna GET ??!?!?!! Sum times ya GADA pay the Price.... |
| V-8's are a Blast...but i kinna gotta have to save GAS !!! |
| Love is the only ting dat has 2 be earned... |
| Eberry ting else can be hacked ! - Reflex the Kismet Thief of Hearts |
| Setting the Standards..... -Benchmark Racing |
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Corporation
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 10:18:35 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2 Kit Cars?
There is a kit for the MKI to turn it into a BMW M1. Pictures are available at
www.mr2.com. In the FTP area.
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From: "Scott, Dan"
To: ToyMods
Subject: Sort of a test
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 95 09:32:00 PST
Since I have not heard a peep from the list for a while, this message is a
feeler into cyberspace.
I have a turbo Celica and lately I have been experiencing a kind of a
hesitation when going to WOT. The turbo comes on and the boost builds OK but
then it feels like the boost drops. The meter stays on full boost. It feels
like it does when you floor it with the A/C on. Kind of like a turbo defeat
option. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Dan Scott
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From: Casey7970@aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 16:55:11 -0500
To: DScott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Boost drop out
In a message dated 95-11-02 13:25:09 EST, you write:
>I have a turbo Celica and lately I have been experiencing a kind of a
>hesitation when going to WOT. The turbo comes on and the boost builds OK but
>then it feels like the boost drops. The meter stays on full boost. It feels
>like it does when you floor it with the A/C on. Kind of like a turbo defeat
>option. Any suggestions?
Drops out at about 6k rpms on a 3S-GTE? (That's what engine you have if my
memory is correct.)
Same problem: 91 MR2 Turbo
I am by no means an expert, but here is my best guess:
As you lay into the throttle the boost continues to build with rpm's until
somewhere around 10-11 psi. and 6k rpm's (not sure of the exact figure).
This is the maximum allowable boost that the wastegate will allow the
compressor to produce. Unfortunately this affects the seat of the pants rush
feeling by happening about 1k rpms short of redline, thus flattening the
boost curve. Although it feels like you have lost power, you are more than
likely just maxed out on boost pressure. And the rate of horsepower increase
has dropped to zero. You are however getting the maximum hp your enigine is
capable of at about 6000-6500 rpms.
The solution: Increase the boost pressure by switching out the
wastegate/boost limiter.
As to how to do this and what to replace it with, there are probably other
people on this list that can better answer this.
OTOH: If this is a new problem for this car, I'll have to give you the deer
in the headlights look.
Anyway, there's my $.02. (and like the real thing probably not worth much =
)
Kip Anderson
91 MR2 Turbo
Casey7970@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 17:36:22 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Admin Blounce, resent
Dear Joe,
Welcome to the mods list! To h*lp you with your question, I know of
Erebuni in Brooklyn, NY. They claim to manufacture over 1500 body kits for
japanese cars. You can find them in Turbo magazine or similar magazines.
If I come across their number and address, I shall forward it to you.
Aly
'85 MR2, with all options
Looking for a little more power
the best handling
and the most cost effective mods
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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From: "Scott, Dan"
To: ToyMods
Subject: Me/Mine/Mods
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 95 15:13:00 PST
Name : Dan Scott
Location :Vancouver B.C.
Model : 1988 Celica 4WD Turbo
Engine :3S-GTE
Mods : Not much so far just: K&N filter, Magnecor plug wires, and
Redline transmission, differential and engine oils
email :DScott@ea.com
I am re-subscribing after I got bumped off the list for some reason. I don't
think it was anything I said. ; ) Future mods will be the suspension (TRD)
and 15" wheels/rubber.
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: The cat
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 02:00:25 +0200 (EET)
> >I've done this on my '86 4Runner(22RE) and found that it
> >does nada/zip/zilch for performance.
>
> I'll have to agree with Rey here, especially if you don't do any
> "heavy" mods, such as upgrade the cam, etc. I once completely
> disconnected my exhaust at the cat and took the pickup out for
> some testing. I figured that top-end testing would be about
> the best/most consistent way of going. I tried it with everything
> hooked up, with just the breather open, with just the exhaust open,
> and with both the breather and exhaust open. Result: Nothing, really.
> I think that with both the breather and exhaust open, I got like
> 1 more mph at top speed. (Matti can give us a guesstimate of how many
> hp this was.) Trust me, there was no boost off the line whatsoever.
Maybe 3hp...
> Your results may be different if you try this in a turbo/super charged
> car, but for a NA car, I wouldn't expect much difference.
I disconnected my exhaust right beside the gearbox, and don't think
I gained anything either, at least not peak hp. The testing
was not at our regular test straight, so the comparisons aren't
that accurate. There MAY have been a slight increase in power on 2nd gear,
bringing it even with 3rd gear results. We may test this againg in near
future, weather permitting (3" of snow today, time to put on winter
tyres). Also, the Truth (tm) on K&N cone vs. stock airbox+FIAAM.
Stay tuned...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 95 16:02:43 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2 Kit Cars?
Most MR2 body kits are listed at: (pictures, addresses)
http://mr2.com/AeroKits.html
I'll be revising this page soon, but basically, they are all listed.
Geoff
'91 MR2 turbo, 155,000km
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From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 1995 21:14:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Will a 3-TC carb fit 2-TC engine
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>The 32/36 DGV is a great carb and may be
>the best choice for replacement of the stock
>carb, but don't expect a 30% increase in power.
>You will get a small but noticable gain in power
>from the DGV, but will also get much better
>throttle response with the mechanical secondary
>on the DGV. Also, it is FAR better to modify the
>stock intake manifold to accept the DGV than to
>use an addapter plate!
>Craig
30% horse power is not a far fetched estimate of increased
horse power for the 2-TC engine by adding a Weber
32 /36 DGV down draft carburetor.
The 2-TC is rated at 102 horse at 6,000 rpm. 30% is only
about 32 hp.
You can get as much as about 15 horse power from just
changing to a electric fan instead of the stock one that
runs off a belt from the crank pulley.
I have messed with the 2-TC Asian carb by making the
secondary open more synchronized with the primary
butterfly and plugging all the octopus like
emission vacuum hoses and alike.
But I'll take the Weber any time or ever better yet
a 38 / 38 DGAS a synchronous carb
(both barrels open at the same time).
It is simple and it makes this motor scream when jetted
properly. (and gain more respect on the street) with
more usable power in the high rpm
.
The adaptor works well and by theory gives the fuel / air
mixture more velocity due to height, you can modify the
intake manifold depending on where you want your
power band but that is another story.
Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto / exporter@delphi.com
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From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 1995 22:08:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE:22-RTE Head Games
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>Look for an older model 20-R head without a mechanical
>fuel pump that bolts on the front of the head. You will
>have to run a different electric fuel pump because the
>one for the fuel injection is going to be too high a
>pressure for carburetors which only needs about
>4 to 8 lbs. max. Compared to your stock EFI pump which
>puts out about 80 lbs..
Isn't there a few different 20-R heads that differ between years?
Gary Hong
-----------------------------------
Reply :
Yes Gary,
In fact some may vary between months
you probably want a head from some ware around
75 to 79 that ran an electric pump from the gas tank
make sure it has all of the provisions for bolts you
need. To run your power steering pump A.C.
Compressor etc.. sometimes you can make a simple
bracket or drill and tap. whatever it takes to hook all
that garb up the 85 GTS has under the hood.
If you do find a head that has a mechanical pump on
front. Remove the pump (two bolts) and remove the
cam that makes it work its only bolted to the end of
the over head cam where the distributor drive is.
Then you must make a plate to cover and seal the huge
square hole where the pump used to bolt on. Or maybe
weld it , but make sure to check the head after, for warping
from the intense heat.
Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto / exporter@delphi.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 22:14:30 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: hi
K&N claims that their filters work wet when a conventional paper filter
won't.
FWIW.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 22:39:10 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Brake pads
Aly asked me to forward this request for inf* to the entire list. I
recommended Stillen Sport Rotors and Metal Master brake pads if
cold performance wasn't too critical, and if his racing division
would allow it. Anyone else?
Chris
>From: aly abulkheir
>Subject: Re: Brake pads
>To: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
>Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 21:01:30 -0500 (EST)
>
>Dear Christopher,
> Do you also recommend stock pads for the mk1 MR2? I autocross about
>7 times a year with my '85 MR2 and would just like to have the best braking
>performance. Remember that the braking distance (60-0) for the '91-'95
>model was around 119-107 feet while the '85 was measured in Car and Driver
>in '85 as 138 feet. I am supposing that with the 600 lb lower weight of my
>car I should be able to stop even faster than the mkII with the proper mods.
>Any idea what the best way do acheive this would be? Our choices of course
>would be rotors, pads, brake lines, etc. I am not worried about going into
>street prepared category.
>
> Could you please post this letter to the mods list so that everyone
>can respond as well. I did not get a chance to put the mods address.
>
> Thank you,
> Aly
> '85 MR2 ALL Options
> Looking for a little more power
> and the most cost effective mods
>
>
>PS, I thought that pads would be the first things to change, though I
>understand your point on the compound affecting hot and cold brake
>performance.
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 22:46:35 -0500
From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Sort of a test+ the cat
>
>Since I have not heard a peep from the list for a while, this message is a
>feeler into cyberspace.
>
>I have a turbo Celica and lately I have been experiencing a kind of a
>hesitation when going to WOT. The turbo comes on and the boost builds OK but
>then it feels like the boost drops. The meter stays on full boost. It feels
>like it does when you floor it with the A/C on. Kind of like a turbo defeat
>option. Any suggestions?
>
Have you noticed any oil consumption recently?
A scenario that I have seen twice before involved the seals failing on the
turbo,(normal boost, no noise) with the oil being deposited on the catalytic
converter. These were turbo Mr. II 's and the converter that was clogged was
the one that bolts to the turbo. This was confirmed by removing the
converter and inspecting the honeycomb. The deposits on the converter should
be easy to see. Warranty was very helpful, replacement of turbo, and
converter solved the problem.
I agree that there is little to be gained by hollowing out a good cat.
converter. If you are suspicious of the converter, remove it and inspect it.
Things that are damaging to converters are:
- driving with one spark plug wire off ( five minutes of hard driving will
cause the converter to glow bright red)
- high oil consumption
- clearing a flooded engine
Mike Dowe
mdowe@wchat.on.ca
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 22:55:56 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Out of the closet (so to speak!)
I've gotten a bunch of email from TM group members saying "Oh,
are you in the parts business?", and surprised responses when I've
said, "Yes, but I don't want to seem like I'm spamming the group."
So, based on a lot of feedback, I decided it wouldn't be too excessive
if I just did one quick, informal note about what Cyberspace Automotive
Performance is all about. (It is, after all, the host of this group!)
I formed CAP about a year ago to serve as an outlet to provide inexpensive
performance parts for my 'net-friends, mostly here on TM. Since then,
it has expanded into a complete auto parts business, solely on the 'net,
but the main goal hasn't changed--to provide the best prices on the
performance parts folks need.
In general, I've found that if folks buy stuff from places other than
CAP, they pay too much. Why is that? Truthfully, because I don't charge
enough to make any money! Obviously, that will have to change in the
future, but for now my goal is to make a strong, positive name for the
company on the 'net, and develop a strong customer base. I've purposely
avoided using this group as an advertising medium, but I'm always
disappointed to find out that folks have bought products elsewhere,
costing them money and me an opportunity to increase my volume. On the
otherhand, I don't want anyone to feel like they must buy from CAP or
else not talk about their purchases. I've never chastised anyone for
buying elsewhere, and I never will. I encourage competition if it
brings about better pricing and service.
That's probably about enough about CAP. I'll close by attaching a
list of some of the more common products we sell for MR2's. I'm sure
that a lot of the MR2 owners have already seen this list. I would love
to have a list like this for every car manufactured, but it takes many
hours to put together a list like this (and ensure its accuracy)--I
simply haven't enough time in the day to do it. If anyone ever needs
any pricing information for their Toyota or any other car, just drop
me some email. I'd love to be of assistance.
Chris
(PS: Since the SEMA show, I've found a lot more manufacturers, and
hope to be adding their products as well. Keep in mind that this isn't
an exhaustive list, just a place to start. Enjoy.)
-------------------Begin Attached List------------------------------
Toyota MR2 (85-95)
=====================
(Last Updated: da month yr)
Centerforce Clutches:
84 NA, Centerforce I, CF020523, $242.36
84 NA, Dual Friction, DF523020, $297.59
85-90 NA, Dual Friction, DF542025, $325.81
All Others: Centerforce I, TBA
Eibach Coil Spring Set:
(Email for more info)
Energy Suspension Bushings:
93 Front Control Arm and Strut Rod Bushing Set
8-3110, $28.76
91-93 Rear Control Arm and Strut Rod Bushing Set
8-3111, $30.94
93 Front Sway Bar Bushing Set, 8-5110, $8.21
91-93 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Set, 8-5111, $8.21
Greddy Exhaust System:
85-89 NA, 109005, $370.26
85-89 SC, 109009, $376.99
90-92 NA, 109007, $461.89
90-92 T, 109006, $486.20
Greddy Strut Tower Brace:
85-89, $102.00
Greddy Turbo Timer w/Harness:
Turbo & SC, $132.59
Greddy TVVC (Variable Boost Control):
375514 (SW20), $102.28
Hayden Oil Cooler:
457, $109.53
Hayden Remote Oil Filter Kit:
291, $35.70
HKS Cams & Adjustable Timing Gears:
4AG engine, $297.28 (cams, each), $142.03 (gears, each)
(Various grinds available, email for info)
HKS Exhaust Systems:
Turbo Exhaust
91-92, 2567EC-11328P, $485.86
Sport Exhaust
85-89 NA, 2550EC-11323J, $419.18
90-92 NA, 2550EC-11327P, $483.58
HKS EVC III:
3150EC-90000X, $828.86
3170EC-90000X, (atm), $951.26
HKS Fuel Cut Defencer (FCD):
90+ Turbo, 4015XX-11327P, $98.06
HKS Oversize Supercharger Pulley:
1342XX-11333M, $316.76
HKS Peak Hold Boost Meter (25 in Hg/20 psi):
4380EC-90000X, $261.86
HKS Powerflow Air Filter System:
88-89 SC, 3333EC-11333M, $165.03
91-95 NA, 3333EC-11327P, $181.13
91-95 T, 3333EC-11328P, $165.03
HKS Turbo Timer IV w/Harness:
Turbo Only, $188.60
Jacobs Ignition:
Energy Pak:
Mileage Master, 370406, $246.75
Pro Street, 370506, $269.25
Energy Team:
Mileage Master, 370416, $321.75
Pro Street, 370516, $348.00
Ultra Team:
Mileage Master, 372416, $359.25
Pro Street, 372516, $385.50
K&N Filtercharger Air Filter:
85-86, E-2485, $34.95
87-90, E-2605, $36.95
91-95, 33-2030, $43.95
K&N Filter Care Kit:
99-5050, $7.00
K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit:
90-95 NA, 57-9001, $138.27
90-95 T, 57-9002, TBA
Magnecor KV85 Competition Spark Plug Wires:
85-89 NA, 45115, $53.93
88-89 SC, 45183, $55.00
90-92 T, 45175, $71.61
Pace Setter Header/Exhaust System:
85-89 NA, 88-1373, $121.52
90-93 NA, 88-1412, $135.82
Pacific Auto Accessories Aerodynamic Styling:
(Many products available, email for info)
Splitfire Spark Plugs:
SF329D, $5.45 each
Stillen Sport Rotor Sets:
86-89
Front, TOY1000, $194.19
Rear, TOY1001, $202.31
90-94 NA, 90-91 Turbo
Front, TOY1100, $226.69
Rear, TOY1101, $263.25
92-94 Turbo
Front, TOY1200, $299.00
Rear, TOY1201, $264.06
Stillen/Metal Master Brake Pads:
85-89 (all), and 90 NA
Front, D507M, $40.48
Rear, D551M, $64.13
90-91 Turbo
Front, D489M, $67.48
Rear, D766M, $62.93
91-93 NA
Front, D507M, $40.48
Rear, D766M, $62.93
92-94 Turbo
Front, D789SM, $37.13
Rear, D766M, $62.93
Suspension Technologies Anti-Sway Bar Kit:
85-89
Complete Set, 3-078, $259.56
Front Only, 1-078 (21mm), $148.68
Rear Only, 2-078 (11mm), $148.68
90-92
Complete Set, 3-078A, $267.96
Front Only, 1-078A (24mm), $148.68
Rear Only, 2-078A (22mm), $148.68
Suspension Technologies Sport Lowering Spring Set (-1.3"):
85-89, S-078, $217.56
90-92, S-078A, $217.56
Tokico Premium Performance Gas Strut Cartridge:
85-86
Front, HZ1085, $54.02
Rear, HZ1086, $54.02
87-89
Front, HZ1085, $54.02
Rear, HZ3099, $58.23
90-94 (TBA)
Tokico Illumina Adjustable Gas Strut Cartridge:
85-86
Front, BZ1085, $112.29
Rear, BZ1086, $112.29
87-89
Front, BZ1085, $112.29
Rear, BZ3099, $116.50
90-94
Front, BZ3125, $116.50
Rear, BZ3126, $116.50
Tokico Premium Springs:
85-89, HPS5064 (-1.0"), $195.80
90-94, HPS5065 (-.75"), $210.92
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From: "Scott, Dan"
To: ToyMods
Subject: RE: Boost drop & cat
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 95 06:31:00 PST
>>I have a turbo Celica and lately I have been experiencing a kind of a
>>hesitation when going to WOT. The turbo comes on and the boost builds OK
but
>>then it feels like the boost drops. The meter stays on full boost. It
feels
>Have you noticed any oil consumption recently?
>A scenario that I have seen twice before involved the seals failing on the
>turbo,(normal boost, no noise) with the oil being deposited on the
catalytic
>converter. These were turbo Mr. II 's and the converter that was clogged
was
>Things that are damaging to converters are:
>- driving with one spark plug wire off ( five minutes of hard driving will
>cause the converter to glow bright red)
>- high oil consumption
>- clearing a flooded engine
First of all thanks to everyone that replied to my e-mail. It turns out I
fell off the list so I re-subscribed. I received a number of responses sent
direct to me and they were all good suggestions. I will be looking into each
of them this weekend. In response to Dave's suggestion that maybe the turbo
is spewing on the cat. Would I not notice some kind of exhaust smoke? I
can't see anything from the rearview, so I will get someone to follow and
check. Thanks again for the help, if anyone sent their suggestions to the
list yesterday I didn't get them.
Thanks
Dan Scott
'88 Celica 4WD turbo 148,000 Kms (new K&N and Magnecor wires from CAP,
thanks Chris you saved me $60)
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Corporation
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 09:55:30 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: The cat
>I disconnected my exhaust right beside the gearbox, and don't think
>I gained anything either, at least not peak hp. The testing
>was not at our regular test straight, so the comparisons aren't
>that accurate. There MAY have been a slight increase in power on 2nd gear,
>bringing it even with 3rd gear results.
How can you get a power increase in only one gear from an exhaust mod? Power
comes from the engine :) if you got an increase in 2nd, but no others,
it must have been in some rpm range that the other gears were not in. Right?
This is one of those cases where it's more in your head I think. I'm not bashing
here, I think my car is faster after being waxed. I've had people tell me theirs is
faster after an oil change (possible in extreme cases, like draining SLUDGE, and replacing
with light-weight synthetic. But you get my point. If the increase was there for 2nd,
it should be there for all gears.
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 10:23:12 -0600 (CST)
From: Chris Hilliard
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: Points of Interest
Hey folks,
I picked up the December issue of Sport Compact Car
magazine and it had a couple interesting things in it:
#1 A 255hp Celica GT four
#2 A drag racing report that has pictures of both a Supra and
a Starlet doing some serious burnouts!
Why did they kill the article by putting those Mazda RX-2 and RX-3
cars in there? Just kidding. It seemed pretty wierd to see a
Starlet smokin' the over,but then again, I haven't looked in to Chris'
garage lately either :)
****************************************************************
* |\/\/\/| ___________________
* | | / \
* | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____
* | (0)(0) / \ / at \
* C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org |
* | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ /
* | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, /
* /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------
*/ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! /
***************************************\____________________________/
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 13:25:11 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: rogers@golddisk.com (Roger Smith)
Subject: Re: Points of interest...
Chris,
I always appreciate references like this. thanks...
> I picked up the December issue of Sport Compact Car
>magazine and it had a couple interesting things in it:
>
> #1 A 255hp Celica GT four
> #2 A drag racing report that has pictures of both a Supra and
> a Starlet doing some serious burnouts!
>
> Why did they kill the article by putting those Mazda RX-2 and RX-3
> cars in there? Just kidding. It seemed pretty wierd to see a
> Starlet smokin' the over,but then again, I haven't looked in to Chris'
> garage lately either :)
Careful 'bout those comments of smoking starlets! There just might be one
hiding in your neighbourhood 8-)
>
On the topic of "points of interest", has any one ordered Toyota's free CD
rom? It supposedly has a description of all of their cars world wide?
--Including info on their racing program.
Roger Smith
84 Starlet 4AGE
------
Roger Smith
Macintosh Project Lead
Gold Disk Inc.
Internet: rogers@golddisk.com
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: Will a 3-TC carb fit 2-TC engine
To: EXPORTER@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 20:39:01 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> >The 32/36 DGV is a great carb and may be
> >the best choice for replacement of the stock
> >carb, but don't expect a 30% increase in power.
> >You will get a small but noticable gain in power
> >from the DGV, but will also get much better
> >throttle response with the mechanical secondary
> >on the DGV. Also, it is FAR better to modify the
> >stock intake manifold to accept the DGV than to
> >use an addapter plate!
>
> >Craig
> 30% horse power is not a far fetched estimate of increased
> horse power for the 2-TC engine by adding a Weber
> 32 /36 DGV down draft carburetor.
>
> The 2-TC is rated at 102 horse at 6,000 rpm. 30% is only
> about 32 hp.
That's ye olde brute horsepower, right? I remember seeing that 100+ hp
advertised in the 70's magazines. But 75hp DIN or SAE net is closer to
truth, around 5600-5800rpm depending on version. You can get around
15-20hp extra with propely jetted sidedrafts.
> You can get as much as about 15 horse power from just
> changing to a electric fan instead of the stock one that
> runs off a belt from the crank pulley.
I've seen in some book 3-5% mentioned as loss for a non-viscous
one, less for viscous. I might test that one too, actually.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 15:05:11 -0600 (CST)
From: Scott the Samurai
To: Chris Hilliard
Cc: Toyota Mods
Subject: Re: Points of Interest
Hey!
Is some kind soul out there going to post that Celica article out one the
web somewhere??? :) And if yes, where???
Thanks, I could use a AWD Celica right about now, right Fred? ;)
I hate the first snowfall!! ;)
Scott Y. Amano e-mail: umamano0@cc.umanitoba.ca
Faculty of Management, University of Manitoba, Canada
"If I am obsessive it is in a positive way. I have a strong natural push
but it is not unhealthy, not a disease." -Ayrton Senna da Silva 1960-1994
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From: Gary Hong
To: cxh6989@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Points of Interest
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 95 17:31:12 PST
From: Chris Hilliard
>
> Hey folks,
> I picked up the December issue of Sport Compact Car
>magazine and it had a couple interesting things in it:
>
> #1 A 255hp Celica GT four
What year Celica?
Gary
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: The cat
To: msink@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Mark Sink - Imonics Corporation)
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 04:18:38 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> >I disconnected my exhaust right beside the gearbox, and don't think
> >I gained anything either, at least not peak hp. The testing
> >was not at our regular test straight, so the comparisons aren't
> >that accurate. There MAY have been a slight increase in power on 2nd gear,
> >bringing it even with 3rd gear results.
>
> How can you get a power increase in only one gear from an exhaust mod? Power
> comes from the engine :)
I didn't make myself quite clear, not exclusively on one gear but on
lower gears 2nd and 1st. A turbocharged vehicle doesn't usually
have enough time in lowest gears to reach steady-state operating
point due to turbo lag. Therefore one gets less power in low gears
while accelerating than one would if the vehicle was held at the
same rpm. This is true even after taking into count the inertial
losses of the flywheel and rest of the drivetrain.
Most turbo owners with aftermarket boost meters probably can see this
themselves, you get less boost in 2nd gear than you do in 3rd. And
even less in 1st. 3rd, 4th and 5th are at least in my case closer
to each other. When I didn't have any boost control and was running
stock pressures, I had 0.45bar on 1st, 0.6-0.65bar on 2nd, 0.7-0.75bar on3rd,
0.75-0.8bar on 4th & 5th. Now it's more difficult to say exactly what
pressure (0.85-1.2) I'm running due to the boost spiking at midrange.
This spiking doesn't happen on 1st and not really on 2nd either,
on 3rd gear it's already 0.1-0.2bar (4000-4500rpm vs 6000rpm),
on 4th and 5th it's 0.2-0.25bar. This might be undesirable on cars
with boost fuel cut, but as I don't have one I'm just happy for
the extra power in midrange.
> if you got an increase in 2nd, but no others,
> it must have been in some rpm range that the other gears were not in. Right?
No, wrong theory. I dropped right below 5000rpm for both 2nd and 3rd.
> This is one of those cases where it's more in your head I think.
Nope. I didn't say there definately was an increase in 2nd gear power,
but that reducing backpressure might help there (and also on 1st gear,
I just usually don't test anything on 1st as wheelspin used to come
into play there). All the more exact testing we do is done using
RevTest, see
http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124775/prog.html
for more information. We'll do more testing on effects of backpressure
in my car when weather allows, this time the same day, at exactly the
same place.
I had 3.5psi of backpressure at the oxygen sensor mounting point,
about 8 inches after the turbine outlet when I was running 0.75bar.
> I'm not bashing here, I think my car is faster after being waxed.
Actually it IS faster after being washed and waxed, but I doubt you could
notice that. Roughness (dirt) of vehicle surface does contribute to
aerodynamic drag. It's usually negligible though.
> I've had people tell me theirs is
> faster after an oil change (possible in extreme cases, like draining
> SLUDGE, and replacing with light-weight synthetic. But you get my point.
Yes, scepticism is always good when talking about possible power
gains through modifications. Many people just do the mods and
live happily everafter that everything they've done has actually
gained power. Don't believe the hype...
> If the increase was there for 2nd, it should be there for all gears.
It's possible this was due to the test straight being not
exactly level (though it seemed like it would be).
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: Points of Interest
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 04:38:32 +0200 (EET)
> From: Chris Hilliard
> >
> > Hey folks,
> > I picked up the December issue of Sport Compact Car
> >magazine and it had a couple interesting things in it:
> >
> > #1 A 255hp Celica GT four
>
> What year Celica?
95 or 94, I'd guess. At least the 95 one has stock 255hp (JIS net).
FInnish models get advertised 242hp (DIN), but dyno tests have
given 255-270hp... 5.9 (or 6.1?) seconds 0-100km/h and 14 even at
1/4 mile if I remember correctly.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 22:39:25 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: jdewolf1@ix.netcom.com (jason dewolfe)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Jason Dewolfe
Location: Englewood, Colorado
Vehicle: 1991 Aquamarine pearl MR2 turbo.
Mods:Chrome ATS six-spoke. Yokahama AVS Intermediate 205/50/15 215/45/15.
Audio: Pioneer head unit, Coustic xm-3 crossover, EQL equalizer, Rockford
Fosgate Punch 30, Punch 45, and Punch 150 amplifiers, Two Rockford Fosgate
Punch 12" subs, Fosgate 4" mids (2), Coustic 5 1/4" mids (2), Fosgate 1"
tweets (2), and yes it all fit, barely.
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 1995 22:48:22 -0800 (PST)
From: "KeNdRiCk W."
To: jason dewolfe
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
hey! a MR2 owner! have you also joined the MR2 mailing list?
check out the MR2 website if you haven't already! it's
http://mr2.com look for my car in there!
> Name: Jason Dewolfe
> Location: Englewood, Colorado
> Vehicle: 1991 Aquamarine pearl MR2 turbo.
> Mods:Chrome ATS six-spoke. Yokahama AVS Intermediate 205/50/15 215/45/15.
> Audio: Pioneer head unit, Coustic xm-3 crossover, EQL equalizer, Rockford
> Fosgate Punch 30, Punch 45, and Punch 150 amplifiers, Two Rockford Fosgate
> Punch 12" subs, Fosgate 4" mids (2), Coustic 5 1/4" mids (2), Fosgate 1"
> tweets (2), and yes it all fit, barely.
>
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From: EXPORTER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 04 Nov 1995 07:46:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Weber down draft carbs
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
To let you in on a little secret.
Believe it on not , I am not a walking, talking
Dyno. But I do know the difference between
a little and a lot and the right Weber down draft
carburetor will give you a lot of power depending on
which DGV series model you choose.
I have installed these carbs on a lot of different
makes of 4 cylinders and all with good results.
It is one of the most cost effective modifications
you can get . You can not get as much power
from just a header or just a cam in comparison.
And I am not comparing them to side draft
models, just cost wise.
the carbs range from 200.00 to 300.00
witch is not a bad price compared to other mods.
Some of the carbs can be set up to be emissions
legal, even in California !
Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto / exporter@delphi.com
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Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 17:57:15 -0600 (CST)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: Christopher Myer
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Brake pads
I agree, I think that the Repco metal-master brake pads work great, are
fairly fade-resistant amd are easy on the rotors. They are my number one
choice pad for stock brake applications.
Craig.
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Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 09:45:28 -0600 (CST)
From: Chris Hilliard
To: Gary Hong
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Points of Interest
I dont have the article in fornt of me but I believe it is a '95.
I would run scared if I saw it on the street. It's one of those cars that
your mother warned you about..........;)
****************************************************************
* |\/\/\/| ___________________
* | | / \
* | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____
* | (0)(0) / \ / at \
* C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org |
* | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ /
* | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, /
* /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------
*/ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! /
***************************************\____________________________/
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Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 13:49:42 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford)
Subject: Re: Points of Interest
Concerning the Celica GT-Four (turbo, all wheel drive) in Sport Compact
Car magazine,
An actual year is not specified, but they are referring to the latest
equipment. It's not exported but it can be gotten new in Japan for $42k.
This magazine's test results:
0-100kph 5.8 s.
1/4 mile 13.5 s.
some of the features:
16 in. wheels, front spiral fin rotors with aluminum 4-piston calipers, ABS
with g-sensor, tandem brake booster, larger turbo compressor and
intercooler, etc. etc.
Monte
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Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 23:29:44 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Hello All !!!
Name : Jack Alford
Location : Decatur, AL, USA
Model : 1986 4x4 Xcab Pickup w/22R
Mods : K&N Air filter, Jacobs plug wires ...
email : toy4x4@ro.com
I'm looking for some tips on pepping up my 22R - Right now, I'm
considering a 32/36 Weber Carb and a header for starters ...
any opinions on my choices ??
I've got catalogs from Downey, NWOR, and LC Engineering are their
any other sources for hi-po Toyota engine parts that I don't know of ??
Any and all advice appreciated ...
thanks
- jack ==> toy4x4@ro.com - Decatur, AL
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From: Gary Hong
To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
Cc: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 95 3:54:21 PST
From: Jack Alford
>
>Hello All !!!
>
>Name : Jack Alford
>Location : Decatur, AL, USA
>Model : 1986 4x4 Xcab Pickup w/22R
>Mods : K&N Air filter, Jacobs plug wires ...
>email : toy4x4@ro.com
>
>I'm looking for some tips on pepping up my 22R - Right now, I'm
>considering a 32/36 Weber Carb and a header for starters ...
>any opinions on my choices ??
>
>I've got catalogs from Downey, NWOR, and LC Engineering are their
>any other sources for hi-po Toyota engine parts that I don't know of ??
>
>Any and all advice appreciated ...
>
>thanks
>
> - jack ==> toy4x4@ro.com - Decatur, AL
Let me know how it goes Jack. Tonight, my 22R carbed/auto celica was beaten
by a late 80's corolla sedan. I beat it going downhill, but on straights and
slight inclines forget it! I never won a race in my Celica. I think a Tercel
(manual) will beat me.
But that's cool, my Celica is running better than it ever did in the last
8 (of 14) year of its life. With all the work I've done to the car, it'll
easily last over 200k. No power, but its dependable! No show, just all go :).
Gary
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Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 11:53:22 -0500
From: roy@lorien.oit.gatech.edu (Roy J. Mongiovi)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Mods for a '92 Celica GT-S
I've asked this before, but I'm still in the dark so I'll ask again....
I'd like to improve the low end power of my '92 Celica GT-S (5SFE engine).
Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a lot available for this car. If
anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
I sent off to Toysport, and this is what I got:
1990-1993 Toyota Celica GTS
Toysport Upgraded Performance
Stage 1 - Trust Exhaust System $401.00
Toysport/Ultraflow Exhaust System $320.00
Stage 2 - K & N Cone Air Filter with Piping $130.00
Stage 3 - Throttle Body Bored Out $350.00
Stage 4 - Extrade Hone Intake Manifold $450.00
No explanations, no expected results, (no money from me, either).
Would anyone be willing to explain what these steps involve, and
what kind of results might be expected from each? Thanks.
Roy
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Corporation
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 12:31:58 -0500
To: roy@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Mods for a '92 Celica GT-S
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> I've asked this before, but I'm still in the dark so I'll ask again....
>
> I'd like to improve the low end power of my '92 Celica GT-S (5SFE engine).
> Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a lot available for this car. If
> anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
>
> I sent off to Toysport, and this is what I got:
>
> 1990-1993 Toyota Celica GTS
>
> Toysport Upgraded Performance
>
> Stage 1 - Trust Exhaust System $401.00
> Toysport/Ultraflow Exhaust System $320.00
>
> Stage 2 - K & N Cone Air Filter with Piping $130.00
The above 2 steps should really be one.
>
> Stage 3 - Throttle Body Bored Out $350.00
For better Low End? I wouldn't think so. Guys? And for $350, there
are better things you could do with the money.
> Stage 4 - Extrade Hone Intake Manifold $450.00
Again, for Low End? You want better low end. Extrude Honing is like the
last step to take. I don't think you should consider doing this yet. There
are better and more efficient ways of getting more air into the engine that
spending $450 smoothing out ports. This step might come AFTER turbo charging,
after CAMS, after ignition. Your engine is not taking in enough air to make this
step worth while. Is this a turbo charged engine?
> No explanations, no expected results, (no money from me, either).
You got back more than I did. I talked to the owner about a turbo kit for
the 4AGE.. He said he was working on one, and asked me to send him what I wanted.
I was very detailed, even included a power curve of what I was looking for. I was
willing to spend upwards of $4-$5000. I never even got a reply. All this took place
while waiting for a "custom" clutch he was supposed to make for me. 3 MONTHS, and countless
phone calls later, I get nothing like what I had orders. I ordered a 4 puck disc, and got
a CF DF disc. He also sent me a look-a-like CF pressure plate, not the 1800 lb plate he
said I'd get. He said I'd have it in 2 weeks. 3 months later I get something I could have
ordered from anyone, and had in a week. My car sat idle for 3 months because of him.
If I were you, I'd take my money and go somewhere else.
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Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 23:13:56 +0000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: tvaughan@ux.accesscom.net (Tyson Vaughan)
Subject: low-tech G-meter
I'm proud to say that I've made the first modification to my otherwise
stock 1988 MR2 NA: a low-tech G-meter. It cost all of a couple bucks.
It's a basket that hangs from my rear-view mirror and is supposed to smell
like something (Drakkar Noir, I think), but that's not what I use it for.
No! I noticed that the shape of the basket is uncannily similar to that of
a plumb. And then I noticed that by doing some quick trigonometrical
calculations in my head, I could determine lateral G's based on how far
from the perpindicular the basket swings during acceleration and cornering!
Theoretically, anyway. :)
____________________________________________________________________________
Tyson Vaughan memetic engineer
tvaughan@ux.accesscom.net graphic designer
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From: "Pete M. Wilson"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 22:30:03 -5
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Pete M. Wilson
Location: Danville, VA
Model: 1989 MR-2 Supercharged Automatic, T-Tops, Power
Locks/Windows/Mirrors, A/C, White w/Blue interior, Leather Steering Wheel,
No decal on hood, w/Sears/Michelin 185/60HR14 tires
Mileage: 98500
Engine: 4A-GZE (from memory)
Mods:
Engine: HKS Oversize Pulley, pulled air filter box and installed
Dragster K&N Filter Charger on straight pipe, HKS
Exhaust System, Jacobs Energy Team
Stereo: Pioneer Cassette/CD-Controller, Pioneer 6 CD Changer, 6
Pioneer speakers (incl 2 6x9 in custom boxes behind
seats), Pioneer 4 channel amp, Bazooka 6inch Sub Tube
w/Alpine Amp, Yamaha DSP Unit, custom lighted off switch for
power antenna
Other: Alpine Security System, ESP Radar add-on to Security
w/remote control of door locks, horn/dome/parking lights control
Amateur Radio license plate, really tall amateur radio antenna (!)
I did have some driving lights (JC Whitney Dual Fog/Driving) but an animal
took one out (and my spoiler). I've bought some PIAA lights (also Dual
Fog/Driving) to replace them, but haven't installed them yet.
I am (somewhat) interested in a nitrous add-on to my car. Theoretically, I
should have around 180HP now, but my VC-200 gives me around 6.5-7 sec 0-60
times. I would like to push that down to a solid 6 or so. I haven't done
anything to my car lately, but would like to next year, if I have any
budget left. I tried to find someplace on the east coast to do a NOS
progressive controller installation, but wasn't too impressed with anyone
I've found.
Pete M. Wilson wilsonpm@ns.gamewood.net
Programmer/Analyst
National Computer Solutions (804) 791-8088 FAX: (804) 791-1351
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From: "Pete M. Wilson"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 22:45:34 -5
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
Oops!!
Forget to mention I have replaced all the bushings with TRD bushings, and
replaced the springs/struts with the Race Springs from TRD (lowered car an
inch or so, NO dive on braking when put in (a little bit now)).
Pete M. Wilson wilsonpm@ns.gamewood.net
Programmer/Analyst
National Computer Solutions (804) 791-8088 FAX: (804) 791-1351
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From: "Pete M. Wilson"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 22:50:59 -5
Subject: Trip Computers
I have an add-on Trip Computer/Cruise Control package that I got from JC
Whitney. The Trip Computer was made by The Zemco Group. I can no longer
get in touch with them, and JC doesn't carry anything comparable.
Unfortunately, the computer has a problem when my car gets warmed in the
sun now (a few years later), and forgets all its calibration settings.
Does anyone have any complex/high-end Trip Computer suggestions? Or, does
anyone know how to reach the Zemco group?
The Trip Computer has Fuel In Tank/Used, Distance Gone on Tank/Left to Go,
Time on Trip/Left To Go, Distance Left to Go, Instantaneous Speed/MPG, MPG
on Trip, and some other functions. I would like a more powerful one, but
couldn't find one before.
Thanks!
Pete M. Wilson wilsonpm@ns.gamewood.net
Programmer/Analyst
National Computer Solutions (804) 791-8088 FAX: (804) 791-1351
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Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 22:57:18 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sherwin P."
To: Toyota Mods List
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Sherwin Porciuncula
Location : Maryland (DC metro area)
Model : 1985 Corolla GTS, 3dr. cpe., 5 spd.
Engine : 4AGE stock
Mods : No real mods. (open K&N filter) and some experimentation
email : villa@wam.umd.edu
project : Street legal mods. - improve suspension, intake and exhaust
work and see how it goes from there.
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 00:36:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: advancing timing beyond spec
Hey everyone,
I've been lurking for sometime. Finally, I have a question for you
experts.
I posted to rec.autos.tech & asked the same question. What happens if I
advance my timing x number of degrees beyond spec without any pinging?
My car does not have a knock sensor.
Is it possible to advance too much, even if no pinging occurs? I was able
to set the timing up to 20 degress BTDC (no way did I try driving it).
One person said I could break a piston... or more exactly:
> Yes it can damage your engine. 1) you do not ALWAYS hear preignition
> or detonation 2) It can make it harder to start. 3) The computer is
> PROBABLY putting it back where it belongs anyway once you connect
> [stuff deleted]
> Let me put it this way ... if you break a piston, yeah, too much
> advance was a bad idea.
Your thoughts?
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, auto, 3S-FE, 95K miles
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From: Gary Hong
To: ptdang@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: advancing timing beyond spec
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 95 9:21:37 PST
From: Phillip Dang
>
>Hey everyone,
>
>I've been lurking for sometime. Finally, I have a question for you
>experts.
>
>I posted to rec.autos.tech & asked the same question. What happens if I
>advance my timing x number of degrees beyond spec without any pinging?
>My car does not have a knock sensor.
You should only advance it a few degree.
>Is it possible to advance too much, even if no pinging occurs? I was able
>to set the timing up to 20 degress BTDC (no way did I try driving it).
I've heard of a few people who have done this. IMO, I wouldn't advance it
that much!
The jury is out on this but maybe Matti or Chris or Koji can help me out on
this.
Advancing will help low end. Will retarding the timing help top end?
Since no one seems to know this answer, I'm going to do an experiment to
figure this out in the next few weeks. If you mods guru know anything about
this, please enlighten me.
Gary
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From: "Scott, Dan"
To: ToyMods
Subject: Sort of a Test part 2
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 95 10:43:00 PST
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and assistance. I am now back on
the l*st. It turns out that our mail server is so old that they are finding
it hard to get replacement tubes for the CPU : ) . My apologies to Chris
for returning the posts unanswered, perhaps they will upgrade the system
soon.
I had a close look at my car this weekend and made a few discoveries. First,
the hoses that go to and from the turbo and intercooler are kind of old and
are splitting. I will need to replace the airbox to turbo inlet connector
since it disintegrated in my hands. While I was hurling a few choice words
at it I noticed that there was a bit of oil near the turbo inlet. On this
car ('88 Celica turbo) the PCV hose connects just before this piece so some
oil is to be expected. Any one have a feel for how much oil I should see?
There was enough to wet my fingers but it didn't drip out of the pipe or
anything. I gave the turbo a quick inspection and there is a bit of slop in
the up/down (radially) direction and none in the in/out (axially). Do I need
to rebuild the turbo? Can it be rebuilt or does it have to be replaced? It
sounds like either case is not going to be cheap. Once again any
comments/suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks a lot
Dan Scott
'88 Celica 4WD turbo 147,000 Kms (92k miles)
PS. Thanks again to Chris at CAP for the great deal and good service
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From: acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu
To: wilsonpm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: TRD bushings
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 95 12:44:59 CST
I have been thinking about the bushings myself. Did you notice
any difference after installation or were all the suspension
changes done at one time. If sequential, which of the engine or
suspension changes do you feel gave you the most bang for the
buck? I just added Toxico Illumina 5X adjustables and though they
aren't cheap I can really feel the difference.
Al Cram 88 MR2 SC, 85 MR2 NA
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From: "Pete M. Wilson"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 19:09:59 -5
Subject: Re: TRD bushings
I'm afraid all my suspension changes were done at once. If I was trying to
economize, I think I would want the Oversized SC Pulley first (very
noticeable difference) and the racing springs second.
With the springs, there was no dive at all when braking normally. However,
the ride is MUCH harsher and steering wheel kick-back on turns (like bumpy
exit ramps) is very noticeable.
I have standard Toyota struts around the springs.
I also tried the TRD brake pads, but was later told they were eating my
rotors. They worked wonderfully for a few months, then fell off to almost
no braking, and I had to have them replaced.
Pete M. Wilson wilsonpm@ns.gamewood.net
Programmer/Analyst
National Computer Solutions (804) 791-8088 FAX: (804) 791-1351
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From: "Pete M. Wilson"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 19:38:58 -5
Subject: My Stereo Set-up
For Tyson and anyone else who might be interested, here's how my stereo
gear is setup (it wasn't designed, it grew!):
In the dash, where the stock 2 DIN radio/cassette went, I have on top a
Pioneer Cassettte/Tuner/CD Controller with the cool, "James Bond,"
cassette unit - hidden behind the control panel. Beneath that is the
Yamaha DSP control unit. Behind them in the dash, is the Pioneer 4 channel amp.
Beneath the driver's seat is the Yamaha DSP unit, which has a sub-woofer
output. Behind it, almost to the back, is the Alpine amplifier, and
setting above that is the Bazooka sub-woofer (tilted slightly, facing
center of car).
Beneath the passenger's set is the Alpine security unit, the ESP radar
unit, and the relays for the lights/doors. Behind the passenger's seat is
the Pioneer CD changer, mounted vertically so I can change CD packs from
the driver's seat. The microwave sensor is under the transmission
tunnel/gas tank covering.
Behind both seats on the firewall are two custom, carpeted, wedge shaped
boxes holding Pioneer 6x9 speakers. The seats touch these boxes when all
the way back, but that's ok for me because I like my staging from the
front.
Above these, in the rear pillars, in the stock tweeter locations, are some tiny Pioneer speakers with caps
to limit there frequency response.
In the dash, I have the Pioneer TS-1060 (?) speakers in the stock
locations.
Pete M. Wilson wilsonpm@ns.gamewood.net
Programmer/Analyst
National Computer Solutions (804) 791-8088 FAX: (804) 791-1351
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Project stop smoke / 280hp (Re: Sort of a Test part 2)
To: DScott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Scott Dan)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 02:46:34 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
> I had a close look at my car this weekend and made a few discoveries. First,
> the hoses that go to and from the turbo and intercooler are kind of old and
> are splitting. I will need to replace the airbox to turbo inlet connector
> since it disintegrated in my hands. While I was hurling a few choice words
Replace all those intake hoses. Now.
> at it I noticed that there was a bit of oil near the turbo inlet. On this
> car ('88 Celica turbo) the PCV hose connects just before this piece so some
> oil is to be expected. Any one have a feel for how much oil I should see?
> There was enough to wet my fingers but it didn't drip out of the pipe or
> anything.
Same here, even before thee clouds of smoke apperared.
> I gave the turbo a quick inspection and there is a bit of slop in
> the up/down (radially) direction and none in the in/out (axially). Do I need
> to rebuild the turbo?
Depends on how much slop there is. Most important is that the wheels
will not rub into the housings. Radial clearance should be in
the .05-.15mm range, axial 0.02-0.08. I don't have the exact values
for Toyota turbochargers, but these are typical values.
You'll know when you NEED to rebuild the turbo :(
> Can it be rebuilt or does it have to be replaced? It
> sounds like either case is not going to be cheap. Once again any
> comments/suggestions are appreciated.
Toyota sells only the replacement cartridge or complete turbo.
The cartridge is about $1050 here, whole turbo ~$2000.
Some complanies do repair Toyota turbos, but most only replace
bearings, if you have damaged the turbine or compressor wheels,
your're out of luck there. I was quoted $500 for replacing the bearings,
but I'm not going to waste more money on this puny CT20. Instead
I'm looking for a larger turbo, that suits my future power needs:
260-280hp with about 1.3-1.7 bar (19-25 psi) boost. Naturally I'll add
an intercooler at the same time ($400, custom made all aluminum,
550*300mm). This CT20 I have now is the same unit used in 22R-TE
turbo truck. Apparently in the latest turbo magazine is an article
about replacing this with a different one. Unfortuntely, this issue
hasn't arrived yet to Finland. If somebody has this article, I'd
appreciate getting the essential details. I have quite a tight
schedule on this project, exam season is approaching, as is yearly
vehicle inspection (including emission test which I have NO CHANCE
of passing with a blue cloud covering the next few blocks around me.
First I had thoughts of CT26 as a replacement, now I'm leaning
more towards Garrett, possibly T03, 0.63 turbine housing and
T04B S-4 compressor.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: advancing timing beyond spec
To: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Hong)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 11:35:03 +1000 (EST)
Cc: ptdang@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> >Is it possible to advance too much, even if no pinging occurs? I was able
> >to set the timing up to 20 degress BTDC (no way did I try driving it).
>
> I've heard of a few people who have done this. IMO, I wouldn't advance it
> that much!
>
On my 4AGE, I have mine set to 20BTDC, just have to ensure only premium fuel
(it pings sometimes on some loads of fuel) is used. I also have a different
pressure regulator.
Bear in mind this is in Australia, where premium unleaded is 96octane, I think
some places use this as standard
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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From: Starlet16v@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 20:52:27 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Radley Ricketts
Location: Poughkeepsie, New York
Model: (2) 1982 Toyota Starlets
Engine: 4kc
Mods: no real ones yet(turbo muffler, American racing Wheels 13x6)
email: starlet16v@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 21:03:48 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Aly's Projected Upgrades
Aly sent me this list of projected upgrades and asked me to both
comment on it and forward it to the list for others to comment on.
>> Here's my current plan:
>
> Stock hp 112
> K&N Universal air filter 5 117
> Crane HI-6 Ignition Amp 5 122
> TRD Header 5-8 130
> HKS or Trust Exhaust 6-10 138
> HKS Clutch (or similar quality)
> Eibach Progressive Springs
> TRD Bushings
>
> Then when that's done:
> HKS Camshafts and Gears 8-10 146
> Then if there's some money around:
> HKS Stroker Kit 32 180
> And while were at it:
> Extrude hone head and intake 25 205
> Valve Job (w/vlv shim adj.) 10 215
> With this I suppose I'll need:
> Sport Injection Manifold ? ?
> Upgraded Injectors
> Haltech E5 ECU (or similar) ? ?
Sounds like a good plan. I'd be really careful about the Extrude Honing.
I am not convinced that it does that much good, especially for the money.
Make sure you get some hard before/after dyno readings, and hopefully a
commitment from whomever you buy if from on expected performance increase.
I am just not convinced that by pushing an abrasive liquid through the
ports that it will cut out the appropriate metal. Think of a curvy
river that you've seen. When a river goes around a 90 degree bend, it
tends to wash out the part that I've shown here:
---------|
-------| |<----The part is where the force of the flow hits
| |
Resulting in:
---------\
-------| | <---Note the place where an edy would form, actually
| / <---causing a drag on the incoming flow.
| |
(Sorry, bad ascii art.)
I would think that you would instead want something more like this:
--------\
-------\ |
| |
You can take off the inside of a curve with a die grinder. I don't
know how efficient extrude honing would be on this.
Don't forget that Energy Suspension makes bushings for the MR2 car that
are quite a bit cheaper, and of excellent quality. As a matter of fact,
something is going on at TRD, and I wonder if they're about to either
sell out or go under. Maybe Koji can get a scoop on this. Something
is about to happen, I know that. I confirmed that much. No big
surprise on this end, only disappointment if they do go away.
Enough from me on this. Anyone else?
Chris
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 21:03:51 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Rotor Warping
I've received some information from Stillen on how to keep your rotors
from warping, and thought a few of the tidbits would be worth passing
along.
Never use an impact wrench to tighten wheel lugs. Use a torque wrench
and tighten progressively to 75-85 ft-lbs.
Always warm up and cool down your brakes when using them in competition.
Do NOT leave your foot on the brake pedal when you come to a stop. This
will trap heat into one spot on the rotor, causing it to warp. I've
been practicing this lately, and it takes some getting used to. Of
course, if you are on an incline this is more difficult. You may want to
use the parking brake if you are going to be stopped at a light for a
while, since the rear brakes usually take less of the stress when
braking and should be cooler. If you have a car with automatic trans-
mission, you may have to put it in park or neutral in order to take your
foor off the brake. Sometime, when I just can't take my foot off the
brake, I position myself so that I can inch either forward or back,
allowing the rotor to move slightly underneath the brake pads.
Another note: When your brakes are depressed, your brake fluid cannot
circulate at all, making overheating more possible.
Hope this is helpful!
Chris
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 21:03:56 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: advancing timing beyond spec
>One person said I could break a piston... or more exactly:
>> Yes it can damage your engine. 1) you do not ALWAYS hear preignition
>> or detonation 2) It can make it harder to start. 3) The computer is
>> PROBABLY putting it back where it belongs anyway once you connect
>> [stuff deleted]
>> Let me put it this way ... if you break a piston, yeah, too much
>> advance was a bad idea.
I'd say this guy is basically right, if a bit over cautious. All 3 state-
ments can be true in context.
On the other hand, if you don't have a computer, if you run a good grade
of gas, and if you don't care how it starts, this shouldn't be a problem.
On the race car, I was running something like 45 degrees of advance at
5000 rpm. Never knocked a bit, and I never had a bit of problem with
the engine, even though I was turning this bone stock 2xR (well, the
bottom end was stock) 5800 rpm. BTW, the engine had over 120 K miles on
it when I bought it to race it. Since then, it has outlived two race
cars, and I am about to rebuild it and put it in the truck.
Not much help, but maybe interesting!
Chris
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 13:43:44 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Aly's Projected Upgrades
On Tue, 7 Nov 1995, Christopher Myer wrote:
> Sounds like a good plan. I'd be really careful about the Extrude Honing.
> I am not convinced that it does that much good, especially for the money.
> Make sure you get some hard before/after dyno readings, and hopefully a
> commitment from whomever you buy if from on expected performance increase.
> I am just not convinced that by pushing an abrasive liquid through the
> ports that it will cut out the appropriate metal. Think of a curvy
> river that you've seen. When a river goes around a 90 degree bend, it
> tends to wash out the part that I've shown here:
One of the latest issues of Fast Fours and Rotaries (Australia/NZ mag) had
a test done using Extrude Honing on a Nissan Pulsar ET Turbo - with quite
good results. I will see if I can dig up the improved performance figures.
Apparently this technique has been used for a number of years in other
applications for increased flow but has only recently been introduced
into the automotive market (at least here in Australia)
Cheers,
Paul.
--
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA
Phone:(+61 7 55 953 324) Fax:(+61 7 55 953 320)
WWW : http://www.dstc.Bond.edu.au/~paulp/
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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 1995 23:18:58 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mjb174@psu.edu (Marlin Bailor)
Subject: TRD
TRD is having a sale on selected older models (mk1, etc) parts til Dec 22nd
or til supplies run out. (According to the print out they sent me) There
were some reasonable prices. Except I have no idea what I would be getting
since they only sent me a price list.
Street spring set $129 MR2 mk1
Race spring set ~$95 MR2 mk1
Struts ~$30 fr ~$45 rr MR2 mk1
+ much more
Anybody know how TRD struts compare to Tokico Illuminas?
>From what I understand TRD is going to quit carrying these parts.
Anybody heard?
Marlin Bailor
'85 MR2 NA 98K miles
Stock, but not for long
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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 1995 23:27:42 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mjb174@psu.edu (Marlin Bailor)
Subject: Starter
I've been having problems with my starter when the engine and air is cold.
The starter won't disengage after the engine starts even if I turn the key
to off, it still turns the motor. The only way to make it stop is to turn
the key on and off several times. My friends '86 NA also does this
occasionally. Anybody had any experience with this?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Marlin Bailor
'85 MR2 NA
Stock, but not for long
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 00:13:29 -0600 (CST)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: Phillip Dang
Cc: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: Re: advancing timing beyond spec
I have modified the distributor on my Starlet to disable all advance
mechanisms (vaccum and centrifugal). I locked it down so that timing
advance is independant of rpm's. This improved bottom end response
dramaticaly! I set my timing to the point that it starts to ping, then
back it off a little. Of course, the amount of advance you can use is
dependant on the type of fuel you are using, your compression ratio and
other factors. Still, maxing out the advance just short of pinging is
vital to tuning for power. With premium pump gas I have my timing set at
38 deg before TDC. With race gas, I can advance far beyond that. From what
I have read, this is the best way to set your timing. There is a great
book called: "Design and Tuning of Competition Engines" that addresses
this subject in detail. If your engine is not pinging, don't worry about
dammaging it. If your car is very loud...you have to listen carefully
for the ping. Rotor phasing is also critical, make sure that the
duration of the sparking between the rotor and cap occurs while the rotor
is aligned with the electrodes on the cap. You can check this by drilling
a large hole in an old distributor cap and looking in there with a timing
light while the engine is runing. I also modified my distributor to
allow for adjustment of the rotor phasing.
Craig.
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From: Gary Hong
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: advancing timing beyond spec
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 1:23:04 PST
>On the other hand, if you don't have a computer, if you run a good grade
>of gas, and if you don't care how it starts, this shouldn't be a problem.
>On the race car, I was running something like 45 degrees of advance at
>5000 rpm. Never knocked a bit, and I never had a bit of problem with
>the engine, even though I was turning this bone stock 2xR (well, the
>bottom end was stock) 5800 rpm. BTW, the engine had over 120 K miles on
>it when I bought it to race it. Since then, it has outlived two race
>cars, and I am about to rebuild it and put it in the truck.
>
>Not much help, but maybe interesting!
>
>Chris
Chris,
Should I even try advancing my timing 45 degrees?! Man, that is alot of advance!
This weekend, I plan to drive up to the East Bay with the timing set +5 degree.
I'll then retard it 5 degree and see if it affects top end.
Gary
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 08:36:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeffrey T Paugh
To: Toyota-Mods
Subject: Stereo Systems
I've seen a few messages on here from people who have installed
aftermarket sound systems in their MR2's. I'd like to share mine with you.
1985 MR2 NA Mint
Red/Black Trim
First point, stay with certain brands, forget that bull that one company
makes a better 6x9 and another makes a better 6.5"! A speaker good
speaker manufacturer makes good speakers. I use JBL's top of the line
series, GTCxxxx. Same goes for amps, and equipment (head units,
changers, etc.) Anyway, here it is...
Clairion (Equipment)
Carver (Amps)
JBL (Speakers)
2 - JBL GTC 4" 2-ways in the dash (5-120W RMS)
2 - JBL GTC 5.2" 2 ways for rear (90W RMS)
2 - JBL 3/4" Tweets (mounted in front 50W RMS)
2 - JBL 10" PROCOMP SUBS (300W RMS)
1 - Carver KLW Audio 75W RMSx4 (on the front and rear 2-ways)
1 - Carver KLW Audio 25W RMSx2 (On the tweets)
1 - Carver KLW Audio 100W RMSx2 (On the Subs)
1 - Carver 3-Way XOver
1 - Clairion Head unit (I forget the model number right now...)
It's that $600-700 one that clairion put out this year...
(I got it on sale though! :) )
1 - Clairion 7100 DSP/Surround/9-Band EQ (Controls from radio display)
1 - Clairion 18 Disc Changer
Now, it sounds great, but there is a problem with trunk room...THERE IS NONE!
after the six little black boxes I put in my trunk, what's left? 3 Amps,
a Xover, EQ/DSP, and a huge changer!
There was a previous message a day or two ago about one guys system, he
got all his amps in the people compartment! (My hats off to you sir!)
That's it, Catch ya' all later,
Jeff Paugh
85' Red MR2
P.S. I have the box dim. for anyone who wants to put 10's behind their
seats and make them sound Excellent!!!!! They work on almost every 10"!
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From: Starlet16v@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 12:32:06 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Starlets....Starlets
I am new to computers and being online. I have very limited knowledge of
computers but I love Toyotas. Where can I get (13x7) 4 spoke American Racing
Wheels?? I have been told that they are not made anymore and I want a set
for my Starlet. I live in Poughkeepsie Ny and I would like to know where I
can go (anywhere close) to get a 2-1/2" exhaust. Are there Starlet owners
out there who can give me suggestions as to where to start and what kinds of
mods to do? Any help is great no matter how trivial. What kind of carb can I
replace the stock one with(engine: 4KC)? Thankx for any help.
Radley Ricketts
email starlet16v@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 18:32:50 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Aly's Projected Upgrades
>One of the latest issues of Fast Fours and Rotaries (Australia/NZ mag) had
>a test done using Extrude Honing on a Nissan Pulsar ET Turbo - with quite
>good results. I will see if I can dig up the improved performance figures.
Please do try to find that info. I'm sure it is very enlightening.
>Apparently this technique has been used for a number of years in other
>applications for increased flow but has only recently been introduced
>into the automotive market (at least here in Australia)
I should be more careful when I write. I'm sure that extrude honing
will open things up, I'm just not convinced that it will open things
up more or even as much as any of us equipped with a die grinder and
some patience. For the money, I don't know if it's worth it.
Standard Abrasives sells an excellent little port and polish kit for
around $25. You'll need an air powered rotary tool (a drill would work,
but would get heavy in a hurry) to use it. $25 and a little time, voila,
you've got yourself a port job. Ok, if you're dealing with a VERY
expensive head (3SGT, etc.) you may want to be careful/get assistance,
but if you're like the majority of us and are dealing with 2/3T's, 2xR's,
etc, you can just get another of these in the junkyard if you screw one
up.
BTW, I was given a 3T motor today. Anybody need one? I don't have a
purpose for it, but though that it might come in handy someday.
Final note. Please be REALLY careful when getting your tech info from
magazine articles. When read with a careful eye, you'll see that these
are just extensions of the paid advertising. One article that comes to
mind is the one on 'Nology wires in Turbo and HT. Man, they kicked out
a bunch of numbers, but the testing was so unscientific that you could
have put ANY set of decent spiral core wires out there and seen similar
results. REMEMBER! The editors aren't going to tell the truth about
the advertisers product if the truth isn't pretty! PERIOD! It just
ain't going to happen! This isn't to say that you shouldn't read
automotive magazine articles, but just remember who is paying the tab.
The consumer is the smallest contributor to that equation.
Chris
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From: Koji Kam
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 13:43:19 -1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: TRD Etc...
Um, Just Tried Calling TRD Again -boggle-
New Number is 714-444-1188 Main Line
Parts Number 714-444-1188
Strange thing, talkign with the receptionist...
Seems Rj and Steve opening up their own shop
(I hope his name was steve)
Anyone can get confirmed with this ?
-Koji
Fax machine is out of paper so UGH try again tommorow.
-Koji
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From: Koji Kam
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 14:04:21 -1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: TRD End of Year Sale
Apparently they are clearing out of the inventory, and the guy answering
the phone is clueless.
They have nothing new, and nothing from TRD Japan.
Oh about TRD Japan, apparently can order some parts from TRD Japan through
Greddy, I got this guys card, and we are going to work something out, that is
if you have the TRD Japan Catalog (which i don't have a current one)
I'd call TRD USA 714-444-3161 ask them to FAX you a complete listing
for all the parts, apparently it isn't much.
Going out to buy fax paper now -sigh-
-Koji
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From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 16:17:08 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TRD Etc...
> Um, Just Tried Calling TRD Again -boggle-
> New Number is 714-444-1188 Main Line
> Parts Number 714-444-1188
You meant "Parts Number : (714) 444-3161" right Koji? :-)
(Main line is correct)
Geoff
'91t, 155,800km
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From: RamziM2@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 21:14:42 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: HKS Powerflo
>I've never seen a Power Flow kit for the 85-87 MR2, but the 88-89 kit puts
>the filter in the trunk.. I'm using a large size Power Flow (from my RX-7),
>a piece of 4 inch "hose" and an adapter piece that bolts up to the air flow
>meter, and YES, when it rains, it drenches the air filter.. I usually put a
>plastic bag over the opening if I know it raining.. how does everyone else
>put a filter on their 85-87 MR2 ? I'd like to know..
toysport in LA has an adapter to install the Power Flow to the 85-87 MR2
Ramzi
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re:Stereo Systems
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 21:28:17 -0500 (EST)
Greetings Everyone,
Regarding Jeffrey's post regarding his well thought out sound
system, I would like to share what I have done regarding my sound system. I
agree about the idea of staying with certain known brands and it will work
if you are going for good general sound, but if you are going for all out
clarity and balance (i.e., if you have become a crazed audiophile like me)
you may find that just because one speaker manufacturer makes a great 6 1/2
doesn't mean that they make "the best" tweeter or 3 1/2, or that they make
one at all, as you will see with my installation. This sound system was
developed through listening sessions, months of reading, experimenting,
asking questions, etc. It evolved from a bare bones system in my first car
(a '75 Dodge Dart) to a more serious system in my second car (an '88
Mitsubishi Colt) with pounding bass, to what it is today in my "now and
forever" car (my '85 MR2, red with All options) over a period of 5 years.
Here it is:
Components first:
Yamaha YCT-925 Head Unit (tuner and cassette)
Sony CDX-A15 10 disc changer (behind driver's seat, I'm short)
a/d/s/ 642ix electronic crossover
MB Quart 200.71 two way passive crossovers (pair)
(2) a/d/s/ PS5.2 amplifiers (probably the best amp they ever made)
a/d/s/ s6.2i 6 1/2" bass speakers (in bottom of doors)(also known as 420
speaker)
MB Quart 100 KN-S 4" coaxials (in factory dash location)
Infinity 32K 3 1/2" speakers (in upper-rear location)
One amp runs the 6 1/2s in the doors from 32Hz to 3000Hz with 40Wx2.
The other amp runs the 4s in the dash and the 3 1/2s in parallel.
Surprisingly the front/rear balance is perfect running off one amp.
(this amp is crossed over from 130Hz up)
The front bottom of the doors was cut for a larger speaker, then thin sheet
metal was cut, riveted and silicone sealed to the bottom front doors. This
was covered with Dynamat for less resonation, then the hole was cut for the
6 1/2" bass speaker. Surprisingly, Toyota cut the bottom of the window at
a 45 degree angle so it just misses the large magnet of this speaker (I was
overjoyed, in a Mercedes 500SL, spacers were needed to mount this speaker,
and in an NSX (Audio Coupe's install in Car Stereo Review), it worked
because the Acura door panels are already spaced away from the doors.
The bass is clear and powerful, without being boomy.
I replaced the factoy door carpeting (thin felt over plastic) with sonically
transparent carpeting available from any good car audio shop for $10. This
carpeting looks exactly like the factory carpeting, but lets the sound
through.
In the dash, the MB Quart 4s fit right in after you cut off two of the
mounting tabs so that it looks like the factory speaker. The 4 and the
tweeter have separate power leads for bi-amplification if desired. I
upgraded the crossovers to the Quart competition crossovers designed for
these speakers and it cleared up the sound of the speaker noticeably.
Polyester insulation (available at any fabric store) was used behind the
speaker to provide a cleaner enclosure.
In the upper rear (where you see holes in the '88/'89 MR2) I installed
Infinity's 32K 3 1/2" dual cone speaker. I was skeptical at first with a
dual cone, but after listening to it, I found the speaker to be clear with
no harshness normally associated with dual cones. The cone in the center is
not very deep anyway, so it may qualify as a mid-high speaker. I tried
putting a 4" in there, but it is a very tight squeeze. For those of you
wondering, the holes for these speakers are not there. You must remove the
plastic panel and cut out a hole for the speaker. Try to get a speaker with
a paper template for mounting, the Infinity included one. Polyester
insulation was used behind this speaker too.
Luckily, Sony makes the CD changers for Yamaha, so the Sony changer connects
right to the very clear Yamaha tuner. This Head unit is no longer in
production, since Yamaha left car audio, but it sounds incredible if you can
get your hands on one.
The amps and crossovers are mounted in the trunk against the front wall.
They run cool, even though the engine compartment is right on the other
side. Wires run to the right around the engine compartment. Taking the
cooling vent on the right side of the car out temporarily is necessary to
mount the wires, and drilling a 1" diameter hole is all that's necessary to
route the wires into the passenger compartment and to the speakers.
The installation is very stealth, in that you can't see the speakers if you
look in. Every speaker is hidden by factory cloth, grille, or custom cloth.
I am glad I did the entire install myself. It really sounds better that way
when you can tune it yourself and make it sound the way you want it. It is
frustrating at times when you can't get the sound right, but when you
finally get it right, you find it was well worth the effort.
If you are someone who truly enjoys listening to music, and you have a MK1
MR2, this sound setup will be well worth your while. If anyone has any
questions regarding more detail of how each speaker or other components were
mounted or decided upon, please feel free to email me.
-Aly
'85 MR2,Red with All options
(yes, even the black spoiler)
Looking for some more power
the best handling
and the most cost effective mods
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 18:45:55 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Re: The cat
At 11:16 PM 11/1/95 PST, you wrote:
>>
>>Well, in California you need to pass a *visual* inspection as well. Your
>>car can pass with flying colors but if the smog tech sees that you have no
>>cat, then he, by law, is supposed to fail you.
>
>>% Aric Shen
>
>Yeah, but who says we have to actually take the cat out? :) We can gut
>the thing out!
>
>Gary
>
I was talking to a fellow about 2 weeks ago about MR2's and what he did was just
arrange it so he could install/uninstall the cat at will .. he could just
swap a chunk of pipe in and had no probs at all..
Brett (Yeesh .. couldnt get any email for 2 weeks and now I get to sift thru
180
pieces .. eek)
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 19:17:32 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Re: Stereo Systems
At 08:36 AM 11/8/95 -0500, you wrote:
>There was a previous message a day or two ago about one guys system, he
>got all his amps in the people compartment! (My hats off to you sir!)
>
>That's it, Catch ya' all later,
>
> Jeff Paugh
> 85' Red MR2
>P.S. I have the box dim. for anyone who wants to put 10's behind their
>seats and make them sound Excellent!!!!! They work on almost every 10"!
>
etc ..
My roomies 87 MR2 has a decent little system that him and I figured out ..
Took that tape storage rack on the firewall 'tween the seats outta there and
built a box for the 2 6's from a MBQuart QM328.1cs set, put the fours in the
stock
front locations and the tweeters are still kinda iffy.. we figure mounting
them ON
the grilles for the front spkrs .. should be ok .. then he had a 12" Orion XTR
installed in the bottom of the front trunk, just mounted a piece of 3/4" MDF
across
the bottom about 6-9" above the bottom and mounted the woofer facing up to
the hood,
sound travels thru the AC port to the cab and sounds just wonderful ..
mounted the
one amp (big Kenwood KAC943) behind the passenger on the firewall ..looks
and sounds
real hot..
Brett (ARRRGh he screams as he realizes once again that hitting reply just
replies
to the single person not the list and then has to resend it to the list..)
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 23:11:32 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Extrude Hone Process
I'm no extrude hone genius. I really don't have any experience with
it at all. I'm just quoting what some very experienced folks in the
industry (Smokey Yunick, amoung them) have said about this process.
I have no doubt that the abrasive flow is exactly the same flow that
the air would take. That's the problem. When air flows through a
curve, it bangs against the _outside_ of walls, and creates eddies
along the inside. The abrasive flow of the extrude hone process will
follow the exact same path, cutting out more metal at the outside of
the curve. This is simple fluid dynamics. A river flowing downhill
does not create for itself a nice straight path, whereby it would
flow the maximum amount of water. Instead, it tends to get
more and more crooked, until the point at which it can no longer
flow the amount of water coming downhill and it overflows it's banks.
I also have no doubt that the extrude hone process will improve
performance. My question is twofold: By how much, and is the cost
worth the gain. It's fine and well for the Extrude Hone folks to
quote performance gains, but I'd only be convinced after seeing two
heads of the same type, one having been EH'd, and the other ported by
an experienced professional, placed on a flow bench and measured.
Anything else, whether it be my random babblings, Smokey Yunick's
rantings, or EH's advertisements, is just so much hot air.
Having said that, let me do a quick quote of Smokey from Circle Track
magazine, where he responds in his "Track Tech" column to a fellow
who questions him on how to port a head. I'll try to cut to the chase,
pardon the elipses (it's way past my bedtime.) I don't have time to
proof read this, I'll just jam it in and let everyone figure it out on
their own.
"...Joe, cylinder-head porting, especially when you start off with iron
production junk, takes 10 years to get close to knowing what the hell you
are doing. On top of the fact that the starting piece is trash, you usually
have race-restraining power and cost rules that handicap it even further.
My point here is that htere is a big difference in how you do the work. For
example, on a head for maximum performance, we use a 3 to 4 and valve job
with distinct throat shapes. A saturday night special has next tonothing
rules. We put the valve seat OD of a skinny valve seat and forget 3 andgles
and bore straight down into the throat area. On a 350 cubic inch engine you
can expect a 30 to 40 hp gain with a good port job on iron heads but, if you
want to get serious and go for broke, you can spend $10,000 and get 75 hp.
The port shapes and sizes and the valves sizes are as sensitve to power and
driving as the camshaft. So no one head design does it all.
You want to learn cylinder head porting? Build your own flow bench and find
a big fat book to read and learn. The first book you need is on fluid
dynamics. You need to understand the natural physics of gas flow, which
deals in both liquid and gas-flow behavior. you will find that both are
extremely sensitve to temperature and pressure. The ideal port is a no turn
more than 9 degrees, no shrouding of the valve. So a flat head,
no-combustion chamber takes care of shrouding and stands the port up to 9
degrees or until you hit the valve spring pockets. This is assuming we are
talking overhead valve. ... I don't want to discourage learning, but you
pretty much want to know as much as a college graduate, but you still want
to self0teach yourself without going to college. It can't be done! Not in
a timely or sensible way. Go to school, school, and get on the job training
with someone who has mastered the topic in general. Fifteen years ago there
were maybe two engineers in Detroit who knew anything about airflow, not I
think that there are four or five. I point this out because it is very
difficult. Actually, that single task is a full-time life's work...."
(Ok, back to me) Does everyone see what this guy, who's probably the
most respected engine builder of all time, has to say about head porting?
It is pure physics, and it depends heavily on the application, on the
rules, on the head being ported. Somehow, I just don't see how those
EH folks can just bypass all of these facts and say that those abrasive
molecules "just know" where to go. Does anything I'm saying make sense
to anyone else?
I'm about to get started hand-porting a 20R head for my truck. Believe
me, I don't kid myself about knowing what it takes to port a head. But
I do think that I can do a decent job for just the cost of the grinders
and a few hours time. As would an EH job. I guess I just don't think
that it would be several hundred dollars better. (But I've been very
wrong before, and will be again! I certainly wish I had a Stage VII+ HKS
Supra, and the bucks to do an extrude hone and check it out!)
Chris
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Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 23:24:15 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mjb174@psu.edu (Marlin Bailor)
Subject: TRD struts
In TRD's close out price list they have a strut set for 85-86 MR2 for
$150.52, which is a heck of a buy. Sounds to cheap to me. When Illuminas
sell for ~$112 each. Anybody have experience with these(TRD) struts.
Marlin, 85 MR2
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 20:24:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: summary: advancing timing beyond spec
Hi everyone,
Thanks for the responses so far. I feel less hesitant to advance the
the timing beyond 15 degrees BTDC. I had it all 12 degrees BTDC during
the summer, and now that winter is coming, I don't expect problems
running at 15 degrees BTDC.
Kostas asked why I need to advance (it beyond factory spec) the timing.
Well, my Celica isn't more than 115hp, so every little bit of hp or
torque helps. I'm not interested in out-running anyone; I just like to
drive more spirited than most drivers.
Below, I've included the replies thus far:
Bye,
Phil
ez049105@rocky 87 Celica ST, auto, 3S-FE, 95K miles
From: "john.limcangco"
I set my timing to the manufacturer's suggested timing. Then I take it for a
drive. When I floor it and it does not 'ping', then I advance it some more. I
do this is in 3 degree increments. When I do get to a point where it 'pings'
under hard acceleration, then I back it off just a little bit.
I've seen my timing to around 38 degrees at 3000 rpm. (Due to the centrifugal
advance that kicks in at RPMs above idle).
So far no broken pistons. =)
My car does not have a computer....
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18R-G
From: Kostas Chryssos
Do you have a particular reason to do so???
It is logical that if you ignite the mixture before the piston reaches the
top travel, you are contradicting the motion of the piston. The piston
caries the inertia of the whole car via the gearbox, minus the presure cycle
of the particular firing at a reduced compresion. The pistons inertia will
keep the piston going forward, overiding the firing presure, but you will
get a progresive reduction of power bringing the engine to a stop. Pining is
caused from detonation of the mixture due to ubnormal firing conditions,
lean mixture, premature firing etc. Things do get much worse if you drive
the car and you can damage the engine easily . So if you have no particular
reason to do so, dont.
___________ ________________ ________
__ ___/__ | / /__< /___ __ )___ __/
_____ \ __ | / / __ / __ __ |__ /
____/ / __ |/ / _ / _ /_/ / _ /
/____/ _____/ /_/ /_____/ /_/
(Kostas G. D. Chryssos Ph.D.)
30,Ikarias str. Glyfada GR16675, Athens, Hellas
Tel: xx-301 9628212, Fax: xx-301 9628539
From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
On my 4AGE, I have mine set to 20BTDC, just have to ensure only premium fuel
(it pings sometimes on some loads of fuel) is used. I also have a different
pressure regulator.
Bear in mind this is in Australia, where premium unleaded is 96octane, I think
some places use this as standard
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
From: Christopher Myer
[stuff about pistons breaking due to super advanced timing]
I'd say this guy is basically right, if a bit over cautious. All 3 state-
ments can be true in context.
On the other hand, if you don't have a computer, if you run a good grade
of gas, and if you don't care how it starts, this shouldn't be a problem.
On the race car, I was running something like 45 degrees of advance at
5000 rpm. Never knocked a bit, and I never had a bit of problem with
the engine, even though I was turning this bone stock 2xR (well, the
bottom end was stock) 5800 rpm. BTW, the engine had over 120 K miles on
it when I bought it to race it. Since then, it has outlived two race
cars, and I am about to rebuild it and put it in the truck.
Not much help, but maybe interesting!
Chris
From: Craig A Terlau
I have modified the distributor on my Starlet to disable all advance
mechanisms (vaccum and centrifugal). I locked it down so that timing
advance is independant of rpm's. This improved bottom end response
dramaticaly! I set my timing to the point that it starts to ping, then
back it off a little. Of course, the amount of advance you can use is
dependant on the type of fuel you are using, your compression ratio and
other factors. Still, maxing out the advance just short of pinging is
vital to tuning for power. With premium pump gas I have my timing set at
38 deg before TDC. With race gas, I can advance far beyond that. From what
I have read, this is the best way to set your timing. There is a great
book called: "Design and Tuning of Competition Engines" that addresses
this subject in detail. If your engine is not pinging, don't worry about
dammaging it. If your car is very loud...you have to listen carefully
for the ping. Rotor phasing is also critical, make sure that the
duration of the sparking between the rotor and cap occurs while the rotor
is aligned with the electrodes on the cap. You can check this by drilling
a large hole in an old distributor cap and looking in there with a timing
light while the engine is runing. I also modified my distributor to
allow for adjustment of the rotor phasing.
Craig.
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From: Starlet16v@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 23:54:55 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: starlet
Anyone;
I was just wandering how hard is it to put the 4AGE into a Starlet. What
kind of modifications have to be done? Do you need to modify the bell housing
or just replace the gearbox alltogether? If I have to replace the gearbox,
what should I replace it with? I was going through the toyota-mods info
server and I saw a yellow Starlet with a wide body kit. Are any kits like
that available in the US? My car was hit a couple days ago and I searching
for parts. Man, I need a door and a fender baaaad. Someone help me. Are
Starlets good race cars? Is there any way to import some from say another
country? Say England, Japan or Jamaica??? I had a system in my car until it
was mangled. I had a Panasonic head going to a three way x-over and then to
three amps. I had four twelves in a band-pass box(actually two boxes
stacked). The twelves were power by a JBL GT400, and mid was powered by JBL
GT50. My highs were powered by a Pioneer(can't remember #), but it was 25
watts per chan. rms. My friends were so impressed I am know burdened with
doing all their installations. But I took all out and I want my car to
perform. Anybody races Starlets? What class do they race in?
Please help me I want to hear sidedraft suck in air and my dynomax super
turbo rumble. Are sidedrafts expensive? Can I get them used? I am broke,
but I am willing to spend every penny on a Starlet. Thanks for any info.
Radley
email starlet16v@aol.com .
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From: RamziM2@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:45:38 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD
For anyone who plans to order the TRD race springs,
I was told the TRD race springs for the MR2 are actually rally springs and
that TRD no longer sells the race springs because the race springs are too
stiff for the street. and he said if i want to buy the original race springs
i should have called earlier. Sounds complicated but thats what the guy
said.
"So maybe I should imagine that my Eibach springs are race springs because
Eibach springs are too soft for raceing".
++ramzi
86 MR2
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:32:41 -0700 (MST)
To: Koji Kam ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: TRD Etc...
At 01:43 PM 11/8/95 -1000, Koji Kam wrote:
>
>Um, Just Tried Calling TRD Again -boggle-
>
>New Number is 714-444-1188 Main Line
>Parts Number 714-444-1188
>
>Strange thing, talkign with the receptionist...
>
>Seems Rj and Steve opening up their own shop
>
>(I hope his name was steve)
>
>Anyone can get confirmed with this ?
>
>-Koji
>
>Fax machine is out of paper so UGH try again tommorow.
>
>-Koji
>
RJ "owns" SMC Products.. him and Steve I guess.. even though I don't know
who the hell Steve is :). He is doing short shift kits and steel braided
brake lines.. little things like that..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 03:30:38 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD
Cc: shafted@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>From shafted@primenet.com Wed Nov 8 21:32:20 1995
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:32:41 -0700 (MST)
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: TRD Etc...
At 01:43 PM 11/8/95 -1000, Koji Kam wrote:
>RJ "owns" SMC Products.. him and Steve I guess.. even though I don't know
>who the hell Steve is :). He is doing short shift kits and steel braided
>brake lines.. little things like that..
Ah, thats kewl, got an address or location area ?
The receptionist at TRD (who i've talked to for years but dunno her name)
said he stops by now and then...
Of course i'm totally out of the up to date scene =(
>% Aric Shen
>% Speedline Racing Concepts
>% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
>% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
>% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
>& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
>% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
BTW, been meaning to commend you on your web pages and such.
Also choice of vehicles.
Personally, I would like a T2 and a SC MR-2
Right now i'm stuck with a silly FWD FX-16
I agree about the "American Muscle Cars" heh, Dad's got um all,
thats why i'm into imports =(
OH, Try ask Ted Koseki who the babe is on your Page you dunno the name,
I can't think of it at the moment, but then again, it is 3:32am =)
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 03:34:34 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD - MR-2
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 8 19:49:09 1995
From: RamziM2@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:45:38 -0500
Subject: RE: TRD
>For anyone who plans to order the TRD race springs,
> I was told the TRD race springs for the MR2 are actually rally springs and
>that TRD no longer sells the race springs because the race springs are too
>stiff for the street. and he said if i want to buy the original race springs
>i should have called earlier. Sounds complicated but thats what the guy
>said.
Heh, you have to say this is for racing purposes only.
Yeah, the igiot I talked to was sorta clueless on a lot of things...
Makes ya wonder, how TRD has a Twin Turbo Supra, with the only
"performance parts" a "air filter"
Big Black TT Supra -boggle-
>"So maybe I should imagine that my Eibach springs are race springs because
>Eibach springs are too soft for raceing".
Heh, nah jus "progressive rate" so that means ya just have to "go fast"
to get that "performance / race feeling" =)
>++ramzi
>86 MR2
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 03:39:30 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Stereo Systems
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 8 18:16:12 1995
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 9 Nov 95 12:10:28
Subject: Re:Stereo Systems
>It sounds like (pun intended) the list is should have a 'high performance'
>sound system sub-group.
Heh, been meaning to do something like that, once I get my majordomo
thingie working -sigh- I should just bribe someone to do it for me.
Otherwise, there is always the Toyota-Mods-Waste-Of-Bandwith mailing list =)
>I've started on the sound system of my car before doing the mods to the
>engine... However, since I've gone engine crazy, I haven't spent as much time
>tweaking my audio system. In fact, I'm thinking of removing my 2 15"
>subwoofers to cut the car's weight by a few hundred pounds! =) Sometimes I
>find myself happier listening to my dual side drafts than my dual subwoofers
>=). Then once in a blue moon, I'd be fiddling with the car audio's EQ for
>hours until I get the sound 'right'! =)
Heh, done all of that, crud right now, its either, the sound of a perfect
engine running, or the sound of a perfect sound system.
I have neither =(
>Regards,
>John Limcangco
>Manila, Philippines
>79 Cressida, 18R-G
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 03:46:12 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD - Koji Goofed it again
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 8 14:15:03 1995
From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 16:17:08 PST
Subject: Re: TRD Etc...
>> Um, Just Tried Calling TRD Again -boggle-
>> New Number is 714-444-1188 Main Line
>> Parts Number 714-444-1188
>You meant "Parts Number : (714) 444-3161" right Koji? :-)
>(Main line is correct)
>Geoff
>'91t, 155,800km
I would stand corrected but my damm foots in my dang mouth again =)
Thanks, ya dats what i meant, i mean listen to what i mean not what I type
or say =)
I was like boggling how many numbers I had to go through to get the current
numbers for a lot of places.
I guess being out of the HP business for a year really hurts !
OUCH !!!
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 03:56:49 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD - Inventory Sale
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Tue Nov 7 18:21:07 1995
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 1995 23:18:58 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mjb174@psu.edu (Marlin Bailor)
Subject: TRD
>TRD is having a sale on selected older models (mk1, etc) parts til Dec 22nd
>or til supplies run out. (According to the print out they sent me) There
>were some reasonable prices. Except I have no idea what I would be getting
>since they only sent me a price list.
> Street spring set $129 MR2 mk1
> Race spring set ~$95 MR2 mk1
> Struts ~ $30 fr/~$45 rr MR2 mk1
> + much more
>Anybody know how TRD struts compare to Tokico Illuminas?
That was the great debate... Still everyone is silent about it,
go figure.
I was told KYB made shocks for TRD at TRD Specifications...
The Illuminas are good, can't deny them -shrug-
Heck, adjustable is adjustable huh =)
High pressure, low pressure all is the same =)
>From what I understand TRD is going to quit carrying these parts.
>Anybody heard?
Actually, TRD tries to close out its inventory every winter, they
have seasonal inventory December 27-January 7th or something.
So they do this regularly, although, it seems they get smaller
and smaller, i gada call that Greddy Guy dang soon
> Marlin Bailor
> '85 MR2 NA 98K miles
> Stock, but not for long
Actually, don't get the high pressure fronts, else you'll end up doing
what I was doing on my Red Corolla, popping the front end off the ground...
Tons of fun and add's that "excitement" factor to "Spirited Street Driving"
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
F8LSpeed
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 04:17:10 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Aly's Projected Mods
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Tue Nov 7 16:42:25 1995
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 21:03:48 -0500
From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Aly's Projected Upgrades
>Aly sent me this list of projected upgrades and asked me to both
>comment on it and forward it to the list for others to comment on.
First Off, performance is for all around, I take it, Spirited Street
Since you have emissions in Cali, perhaps messing around with the air
flow meter would help a bit espically when ya get farther down the list...
>>>> Here's my current plan:
>>
>> Stock hp 112
>> K&N Universal air filter 5 117
For "Racing purposes" you can take one of your stock filters, and chop it all
off and put a "mesh" screen over it, like for a screen door or something
for freer flow during racing. I extended my friends "vent" on the side
out of the car about 1/2 with spacers, was damm hard, but more flow goes
into it. Was thinking of one of those "fiero" air damms that go up to
the roof, damm ugly though... but could be neat =)
>> Crane HI-6 Ignition Amp 5 122
Picked up the info for this at SEMA, looked DAMMMM Impressive...
>> TRD Header 5-8 130
Which TRD Header ? The Doug Thorley one ? or the TRD Custom one ?
>> HKS or Trust Exhaust 6-10 138
I'd say go with the HKS, the Trust on my 2 friends car all blew out all
the fiber within 4 months (this is in Hawaii and not many open roads)
Plus the MR-2 needs a little backpressure, too free the exhaust is bad
we confirmed that, and the price for the Trust -ouch- maybe the Japan
"racing" Trust exhaust, because the American Trust "racing" is the Japan
"street" exhaust -shrug-
>> HKS Clutch (or similar quality)
>> Eibach Progressive Springs
>> TRD Bushings
Even "generic" polyurathne bushings work well
>>
>> Then when that's done:
>> HKS Camshafts and Gears 8-10 146
I would get the cam timing gears as one of your first mods, get the
adjustables, if not the non "adjustables" are about $80 for the 4AGE
>> Then if there's some money around:
>> HKS Stroker Kit 32 180
Check the availibility of this kit...
>> And while were at it:
>> Extrude hone head and intake 25 205
>> Valve Job (w/vlv shim adj.) 10 215
>> With this I suppose I'll need:
>> Sport Injection Manifold ? ?
>> Upgraded Injectors
>> Haltech E5 ECU (or similar) ? ?
>Sounds like a good plan. I'd be really careful about the Extrude Honing.
>I am not convinced that it does that much good, especially for the money.
>Make sure you get some hard before/after dyno readings, and hopefully a
>commitment from whomever you buy if from on expected performance increase.
>I am just not convinced that by pushing an abrasive liquid through the
>ports that it will cut out the appropriate metal. Think of a curvy
>river that you've seen. When a river goes around a 90 degree bend, it
>tends to wash out the part that I've shown here:
>---------|
>-------| |<----The part is where the force of the flow hits
> | |
>Resulting in:
>---------\
>-------| | <---Note the place where an edy would form, actually
> | / <---causing a drag on the incoming flow.
> | |
>(Sorry, bad ascii art.)
>I would think that you would instead want something more like this:
>--------\
>-------\ |
> | |
>You can take off the inside of a curve with a die grinder. I don't
>know how efficient extrude honing would be on this.
>Don't forget that Energy Suspension makes bushings for the MR2 car that
>are quite a bit cheaper, and of excellent quality. As a matter of fact,
>something is going on at TRD, and I wonder if they're about to either
>sell out or go under. Maybe Koji can get a scoop on this. Something
>is about to happen, I know that. I confirmed that much. No big
>surprise on this end, only disappointment if they do go away.
I'm calling that Greddy guy tommorow.
My impression so far, is that TRD USA is going to be bought out
by perhaps Greddy or someone, and TRD Japan will be the only
"true" source for TRD parts.
I dunno, Roger, what does he say about this ?
TRD USA came down to HAWAII to look for a possible location about 6 months
ago -boggle- something about being the "hub" of the pacific
>Enough from me on this. Anyone else?
Happy now =)
>Chris
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 04:23:22 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD Bushings
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Tue Nov 7 14:15:17 1995
From: "Pete M. Wilson"
Organization: Starlight Computer Wizardry
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 19:09:59 -5
Subject: Re: TRD bushings
>I'm afraid all my suspension changes were done at once. If I was trying to
>economize, I think I would want the Oversized SC Pulley first (very
>noticeable difference) and the racing springs second.
I think the origional theory was only making the "pulley" 30% larger
is to get an increase while still looking "stock" thats why they claim
they "could have made it bigger" but didn't. You can get a larger pulley
in Japan from someother company, 5gizen maybe...
>With the springs, there was no dive at all when braking normally. However,
>the ride is MUCH harsher and steering wheel kick-back on turns (like bumpy
>exit ramps) is very noticeable.
>I have standard Toyota struts around the springs.
I noticed that also, with the otherway around on the 1987 MR-2 was fussing
around with. Retained the stock springs, got the sturts, and little
noticeable dive, good engineering car.
>I also tried the TRD brake pads, but was later told they were eating my
>rotors. They worked wonderfully for a few months, then fell off to almost
>no braking, and I had to have them replaced.
These were the bronze ones ? they just rusted on my rims if i didn't
wipe them off immediately =(
>Pete M. Wilson wilsonpm@ns.gamewood.net
>Programmer/Analyst
>National Computer Solutions (804) 791-8088 FAX: (804) 791-1351
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 04:27:09 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Brake PAds
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 1 14:36:10 1995
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 18:57:00 -0500
From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Brake pads
>>Stock toyota pads. I autox a LOT. That's all I use. I even do the
>>occassional lapping session on our 2 mile road course. No problems.
I do second that.
Just use good brake fluid, make sure you bleed them before every race
and keep your braking system well maintained and it'll give ya no
problemos whats so ever...
BTW: ya use Yoko's or BF's ?
I hear TEAM BFG got some 215/50/13 R1's now =)
>Gotta agree with Lance. If cold performance is an issue, you will
>want to avoid performance brake pads.
Awwww, you mean everyone doesn't do hotlaps ?
Those early mornings pulling the handbrakes and doing 60-0 stops were fun !!
>Chris
Must be getting old Chris ;)
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 04:29:59 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Tornado
>From Casey7970@aol.com Tue Oct 31 03:06:12 1995
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 08:05:39 -0500
To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu
Subject: Re: Tornado
In a message dated 95-10-29 19:39:17 EST, you write:
>>Oh, they don't work on your Turbo motors..
>>Anyone figure out why ? =)
>>They will get a Happy face if they do =)
>WAG: Is it because of the swirl motion already generated by the turbo, thus
>making the Tornado superfulous (superfluous, superflous . . . redundant)?
ERrr whats WAG ?
But that answer is correct =)
BTW, are ya the dude that wrote me the snail mail =)
Or is there some AOL listing about Toyota-Mods and i'm on it ?!?!?
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 09:38:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr
Subject: Re: Extrude Hone Process
To: Christopher Myer
Cc: Toyota Modifications Mailing List
On Wed, 8 Nov 1995, Christopher Myer wrote:
> (Ok, back to me) Does everyone see what this guy, who's probably the
> most respected engine builder of all time, has to say about head porting?
> It is pure physics, and it depends heavily on the application, on the
> rules, on the head being ported. Somehow, I just don't see how those
> EH folks can just bypass all of these facts and say that those abrasive
> molecules "just know" where to go. Does anything I'm saying make sense
> to anyone else?
The guy that hired me (not really my boss anymore, company
reorganization) used to work for a major medical products manufacturer.
He had a great deal of experience with small-scale extrude-honing (used
to smooth out the inside of various medical tubing). He said that the
real secret to extrude honing is the slurry they use. It's not just grit,
it's a very complex, patented mix. He said that if you pick up a
handful, it will run through your fingers and drip. However, if you
throw it at the floor it'll bounce! The more pressure that is exerted
upon it, the thicker and stiffer it gets.
Due to the properties of the slurry, it really does "know" where to
clean things up. As you force it into a curved pipe, certain portions of
the slurry will be under more pressure than others (due to restrictions
in the pipe itself). The slurry will get harder there and the pressure
exerted will cause that area to wear more, thus removing that
restriction. Then the pressure will concentrate in other areas, and the
process will repeat there. If you repeat long enough, the pipe will have
constant flow restriction along its entire length, there will be no spot
more restrictive than any other.
The only real unknown is comparing the flow characteristics of the
slow, thick slurry to fast, thin air. But they are likely close enough
that extrude-honing will produce substantially better airflow.
One thing to watch out for though is that the greater the diameter of
the intake runners, the higher in the power-band you move your power &
torque peaks, though you do gain a higher peak as well. Turbo Magazine
did dyno tests of a naturally-aspirated mustang engine before and after
extrude honing, and though I forget the exact results the
after-extrude-hone engine had less horsepower & torque up to about
3000-4000 rpm, then had more from that point up to a peak about 500-1000
rpm higher in the rev band than before and maybe 10-15% more power at that
peak.
Aaron B.
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Corporation
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 10:05:23 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TRD struts
> In TRD's close out price list they have a strut set for 85-86 MR2 for
> $150.52, which is a heck of a buy. Sounds to cheap to me. When Illuminas
> sell for ~$112 each. Anybody have experience with these(TRD) struts.
>
> Marlin, 85 MR2
>
I do, assuming they are the same ones. Mine are made by KYB. I bought them
about 2 yrs ago for my 87. But I also installed their springs and ant-sway bars at
the same time, so I can't tell you what kind of differene the struts alone
will make, but the ppl who installed them were very impressed with their
stifness. It was a performance shop, and they had some other struts they
were simply pressing down on to check there resustance. When they tried
my TRD struts, they were very stiff as far as they were concerened. I'm
saying this in a good way.
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 10:24:28 -0600 (CST)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: Starlet16v@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Rust
Does anyone have suggestions on preventing a clean old Toyota from
rusting when it is going to be driven in snow and on salted roads all winter?
Craig.
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 9 Nov 95 12:10:28
Subject: Re:Stereo Systems
It sounds like (pun intended) the list is should have a 'high performance'
sound system sub-group.
I've started on the sound system of my car before doing the mods to the
engine... However, since I've gone engine crazy, I haven't spent as much time
tweaking my audio system. In fact, I'm thinking of removing my 2 15"
subwoofers to cut the car's weight by a few hundred pounds! =) Sometimes I
find myself happier listening to my dual side drafts than my dual subwoofers
=). Then once in a blue moon, I'd be fiddling with the car audio's EQ for
hours until I get the sound 'right'! =)
Regards,
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida, 18R-G
_______________________________________________________________________________
To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet
cc: (bcc: John Limcangco)
From: abulkh34 @ matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly abulkheir) @ internet
Date: 11/09/95 10:28 AM
Subject: Re:Stereo Systems
_______________________________________________________________________________
Greetings Everyone,
Regarding Jeffrey's post regarding his well thought out sound
system, I would like to share what I have done regarding my sound system....
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 11:18:01 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford)
Subject: 20R head & 86 22R block
Hello All !
I'm think of putting a 20R head on my 1986 22R block and was
wondering if anybody out there has done this ?? was it worth it ?
Just general info ...
I've talked with L.C. Engineering about the double-row timing
chain conversion kit( big $$$) they said I could get by without
it if I had the 20R head modified ... any thoughts ???
BTW - the motors in a 4x4 truck ...
Thanks !
- jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com
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From: Gary Hong
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Stereo Systems
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 95 14:44:23 PST
From: Allen T Koji Kam
>
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 8 18:16:12 1995
>From: "john.limcangco"
>Date: 9 Nov 95 12:10:28
>Subject: Re:Stereo Systems
>
>>It sounds like (pun intended) the list is should have a 'high performance'
>>sound system sub-group.
>
>Heh, been meaning to do something like that, once I get my majordomo
>thingie working -sigh- I should just bribe someone to do it for me.
Yah, I wouldn't mind having a sound system newsgroup. Been working on my
system off and on these past few days trying to rid engine noise. Tried
GLI's and narrowed down the noise to my Zapco PEQ. Those suckers who
wired up my system don't know jack.
Gary
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From: Gary Hong
To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 20R head & 86 22R block
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 95 14:48:55 PST
From: Jack Alford
>
>Hello All !
>
>I'm think of putting a 20R head on my 1986 22R block and was
>wondering if anybody out there has done this ?? was it worth it ?
>Just general info ...
>
>I've talked with L.C. Engineering about the double-row timing
>chain conversion kit( big $$$) they said I could get by without
>it if I had the 20R head modified ... any thoughts ???
>
>BTW - the motors in a 4x4 truck ...
>
>Thanks !
>
> - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com
LC = Large Cash!
You need alodda cash for LC stuff. Their 200 HP engine will run ya $6k.
I wouldn't be surprised if it'll run you up to $7k for their PRO5 engine
installed. For $6k-7k, I'll buy me an older sports car that already has 200HP+!
Gary
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 08:54:14 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: Craig A Terlau
Cc: Starlet16v@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Rust
On Thu, 9 Nov 1995, Craig A Terlau wrote:
> Does anyone have suggestions on preventing a clean old Toyota from
> rusting when it is going to be driven in snow and on salted roads all winter?
Don't know about snow (we don't get much of that here ;) but after a run
on a beach or sandy roads we just shove a lawn sprinkler under the car
and turn it on for a few minutes at high pressure :) Might look a bit
silly but it works! (Just don't forget to put your bungs in!!)
(BTW, haven't had a chance to check out the extrude honing figures yet -
have been busy preparing for a forest rally I am driving in this
week-end! ...wish it was in a GT-4 :)
Also, just in case some of you did not know, TTE have been banned from
the WRC for twelve months after it was found that they had illegal
restrictors fitted to their cars!!
Cheers,
Paul.
--
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA
Phone:(+61 7 55 953 324) Fax:(+61 7 55 953 320)
WWW : http://www.dstc.Bond.edu.au/~paulp/
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Re: Brake PAds
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 01:26:04 +0200 (EET)
> >From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 1 14:36:10 1995
> Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 18:57:00 -0500
> From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
> Subject: Re: Brake pads
>
> >>Stock toyota pads. I autox a LOT. That's all I use. I even do the
> >>occassional lapping session on our 2 mile road course. No problems.
>
> I do second that.
I don't. Couldn't get more than two fast laps on a 1.8 mile track
(ok, it's heavy on brakes, but still...). Same thing with both
the Carina and Corolla. And once the brakes faded out, I didn't get them
back for quite a while... Jurids went out after 2 laps too, but
recovered for the next session with slightly worse efficiency.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 15:37:34 -0800
To: RamziM2@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TRD
On Nov 9, 12:45am, RamziM2@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: RE: TRD
> For anyone who plans to order the TRD race springs,
>
> I was told the TRD race springs for the MR2 are actually rally springs and
> that TRD no longer sells the race springs because the race springs are too
> stiff for the street. and he said if i want to buy the original race springs
> i should have called earlier. Sounds complicated but thats what the guy
> said.
Hunt around, I'm certain you will come across a shop somewhere that
ordered them and was unable to sell them. That would be the case if you are
looking for TRD race springs (blue) for 85-87 Corollas... there is a shop in
Hawaii that may still have them.
> "So maybe I should imagine that my Eibach springs are race springs because
> Eibach springs are too soft for raceing".
Not really, Eibach do make a race spring as well... and you might want
to also check it out as well.
Latas,
Allan
--
*******************************************************************************
Allan Chen A peak disturbs the horizon. The wave builds as it
Silicon Graphics Inc. slowly crumbles. A lone man races the crest hoping
Mountain View, CA for the moment where wave, board, and rider becomes
allanc@sgi.com one... Only a surfer knows the feeling.
*******************************************************************************
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 17:11:59 -0700 (MST)
From: Lance Heinrich
Subject: Re: Brake PAds
To: Matti Kalalahti
Cc: Toyota-Mods mailing list
I guess Matti has pointed out that maybe I need to qualify my comment.
The following applies only to my lapping sessions experience. _I_ have
never had a problem autox'ing in any kind of weather (without the ducts
mentioned below).
Living here in Calgary, Canada, it's likely that the outside ambient
temperature and humidity levels may play a part in all of this. In fact,
I don't recall offhand having done any lapping sessions when the
temperature outside has been greater than 18 deg. C (~65 deg. F). Also,
the first few times, I would never do more than 5 laps at a time between
rest periods - that is one warm up, 3 hot laps, one cool-down.
For the last year or so, I whip up some air ducts (using flexible
aluminum tubing, and screen in front to keep the rocks out) to route
additional air to the front brakes. (I'm actually thinking of removing
the fog lights and putting in permanent ducts where they are, and then
using a couple of PIAA lights - only I'm broke now from all the other
little things I'm doing this winter).
Just as a side note, one of the guys at one of these lapping sessions in
an Eagle Talon with stock brakes managed to cook the brake fluid and
basically had the 'ultimate' brake fade. Half way through the afternoon,
he ended up simply bleeding the entire brake system and was back in
business.
Lance.
---------------------------------------------------------------
| Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
| lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
|
| 1991 MR2 Turbo
| Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged
On Fri, 10 Nov 1995, Matti Kalalahti wrote:
> > >>Stock toyota pads. I autox a LOT. That's all I use. I even do the
> > >>occassional lapping session on our 2 mile road course. No problems.
> >
> > I do second that.
>
> I don't. Couldn't get more than two fast laps on a 1.8 mile track
> (ok, it's heavy on brakes, but still...). Same thing with both
> the Carina and Corolla. And once the brakes faded out, I didn't get them
> back for quite a while... Jurids went out after 2 laps too, but
> recovered for the next session with slightly worse efficiency.
>
> --
> Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
> k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
> A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
>
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 20:49:20 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: TRD Sale
Ok, I've got the scoop (finally!) Big sale, lots of stuff really
cheap. 8 pages, to be exact. If anyone is going to buy any of this,
I would be mucho appreciado if they'd buy it from me. I'll give you
the exact same price that TRD is quoting--no markup. This allows
me to increase my volume with TRD and get better pricing. If I can
get a big enough order and get them to drop the prices, I'll even try
to ship it for free. I'll go one step further. If there's something
you want but can't come up with the cash right away, I'll be willing
to order it and hold it for you for a while, provided you're _really_
going to buy it and not leave me holding the bag.
Gary, (et al), here's your big opportunity. 44mm Mikuni kits for the
22R for $475. (Hint: I normally pay $580 for these.) Headers
(Doug Thorley, I think) for $117-$140. (DT headers are usually around
$350).
Adrian, AW11 MR2 Street Spring set for $128.40, normally well over
$200. The strut set for that car is $150.52 (I think these retail
for that _each_.)
Here's the deal. Call (714) 444-3161 and ask them to fax you the
year-end sale price sheet. Don't ask for sales, just ask the gal that
answers the phone. They've got like one salesman, and he'll just trans-
fer you back to her and she'll ask for your phone number, etc. I'd like
to place an order by NLT early next week, Wednesday at the latest, so
let me know. I really appreciate anyone who's able to work together
with me on this. It will mean that I'll get better pricing in the
future, and be able to pass that on to the group.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 20:30:52 -0800
From: Curtis Allen Lum
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Curtis Lum
Los Angeles
1989 Turbo Supra
7MGT
HKS exhaust, intercooler, evc, vpc
Greddy wastegate, blow-off valve
clum@calstatela.edu
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 23:21:29 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford)
Subject: Re: Rust
Cc: Craig A Terlau
>Does anyone have suggestions on preventing a clean old Toyota from
>rusting when it is going to be driven in snow and on salted roads all winter?
Craig,
There's a product called Rhino Lining, LIne-X and a few others that
are similar, they mainly spray truck beds and stuff, but it's about
1/4" thick, alot like undercoating but doesn't break down under the
elements .... in fact they claim it'll last forever ... Check to
see if someone in your area does this ... It costs a good bit but
then again, you'll only have to do it once !!
- jack ==> toy4x4@ro.com
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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 21:50:09 -0800
From: Curtis Allen Lum
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Hi-tech shootout
Just wondering if anyone in the S.Cal Area is going to the Hi-tech Shootout
at Bakersfield Raceway this weekend? There should be some very interesting battles going on. A lot of "notorious" racers are gonna be showing their stuff i.e.Ken Duttweiler and his 8sec. GN and a lot of fast imports!! Should be a blast.
It's first event to have the "top" domestic and import racers, so there's a little something for everyone.
Oh yeah, what kind of times(qtr. mile) are you Supra owners hitting?
Curtis Lum
89 Turbo Supra
90 Acura Integra (14sec. qtr. miles w/just a header, exhaust, and air filter!)
Believe it!!!!
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 02:19:13 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sherwin P."
To: Toyota List
Cc: Corolla List ,
Subject: Fog lights
Well, winter is coming! Like Craig, I have to worry about rust from
all the salt.
Anyway, I was thinking of getting myself some fog lights for x-mas.
Can anyone recommend a brand or model that looks and fits well on an
85 Corolla GTS (preferably amber). I need something that is durable.
How are PIAA's?
Sherwin
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 00:40:18 -0700 (MST)
To: Allen T "Koji" Kam ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: RE: TRD
>
>Ah, thats kewl, got an address or location area ?
>The receptionist at TRD (who i've talked to for years but dunno her name)
>said he stops by now and then...
He's in the Downey/Cerritos California area (area code 310).. if you go the
Import Performance Page, he has a "web page" (I use that term loosely) there
that lists some stuff he is manufacturing.. I have his pager number, let me
know if you want it.. I've never met the man, but a friend of mine is a
pretty good friend of his and he told me to page him and ask him about
turbocharging a 4AG. I paged him, he called back and we talked for like an
hour.. that man needs to write a book..
>BTW, been meaning to commend you on your web pages and such.
>Also choice of vehicles.
Thanks. I'd like to put something in there about the 4AG and all the
differences between years, etc.. if anyone knows *everything* some help
would be appriciated..
>
>Personally, I would like a T2 and a SC MR-2
>Right now i'm stuck with a silly FWD FX-16
Have you talked to Raikkonen Timo , he has an FX16 that
he turbocharged with a homemade manifold.. with severe traction problems he
runs a low low 14.. not too bad..
>
>I agree about the "American Muscle Cars" heh, Dad's got um all,
>thats why i'm into imports =(
Yeah, my friend always had this 1969 Camaro that he would never stop talking
about.. problem is he's turbocharging that now.. :(
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 01:17:55 -0700 (MST)
To: Curtis Allen Lum ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Hi-tech shootout
At 09:50 PM 11/9/95 -0800, Curtis Allen Lum wrote:
>Just wondering if anyone in the S.Cal Area is going to the Hi-tech Shootout
>at Bakersfield Raceway this weekend? There should be some very interesting
battles going on. A lot of "notorious" racers are gonna be showing their
stuff i.e.Ken Duttweiler and his 8sec. GN and a lot of fast imports!! Should
be a blast.
>It's first event to have the "top" domestic and import racers, so there's a
little something for everyone.
>Oh yeah, what kind of times(qtr. mile) are you Supra owners hitting?
>
>Curtis Lum
>89 Turbo Supra
>90 Acura Integra (14sec. qtr. miles w/just a header, exhaust, and air filter!)
>Believe it!!!!
>
Me and some friends (Dynamic Autosports) will be out there.. my friend is
taking his 1991 Supra Turbo out there hoping to run low 12s on slicks..
we'll see..
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 95 20:02:19 +1100
From: Peter Mejak
Subject: Extrude Hone results from magazine tests
Here 'tis (results only, can't be bothered typing it all in on a Friday evening)
"...A quick inspection with some vernier calipers showed the internal runner
size to be 0.75mm larger (about 30 thou oversize)."
....
"...to our initial surprise, the manifold showed a flow improvement of only
four percent. According to ExtrudeHone, the velocity was increased greater
than the outright flow, in addition to matching the manifolds (which time
didn't allow us to do). Overall there was a 12.45 CFM improvement on the
processed manifold. In theory this will improve horsepower on a naturally
aspirated car making around 150 bhp by 12.8 bhp."
"Obviously with 20/20 hindsight, we should have asked for more material to be
taken off. The on-road improvement, however, was a pleasant surprise. Being
a high-boost 14-second ET car, the 1/4 mile time dropped 0.2 sec from just the
manifold change! The runner size was increased to the size of the port (which
was previously mismatched) and the accompanying gaskets needed to be trimmed
to accomodate the new diameter."
"The results of the ExtrudeHone process proved a mild success but we're
considering sending the intake (along with the exhaust) manifold back to
ExtrudeHone for a further flow increase. We'll report on the results soon."
So, they're the results. I may see if I can scan the whole article (including
pictures) at a later time, if my workload allows.
Cheers,
Peter.
======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 04:33:32 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: clum@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Hi-tech shootout
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Thu Nov 9 19:49:18 1995
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 21:50:09 -0800
From: Curtis Allen Lum
Subject: Hi-tech shootout
>Just wondering if anyone in the S.Cal Area is going to the Hi-tech Shootout
>at Bakersfield Raceway this weekend?
Wish I could make it =( Being in Hawaii sucks...
>There should be some very interesting battles going on.
>A lot of "notorious" racers are gonna be showing their stuff
>i.e.Ken Duttweiler and his 8sec. GN and a lot of fast imports!!
Ya, check out the Blue Skyline and the Yellow Greddy Cars.
The Supra TT used to be black incase you don't recognize it.
>Should be a blast.
>It's first event to have the "top" domestic and import racers,
>so there's a little something for everyone.
Ya, except those poor fools that can't drive there =(
Some of the RX-7 guys are going, ya can try pow wow with them...
>Curtis Lum
>89 Turbo Supra
>90 Acura Integra (14sec. qtr. miles w/just a header, exhaust, and air filter!)
>Believe it!!!!
Heh, i hit 14.8 in my FX-16 on the 3 day after i bought it, go figure, and
that was untuned =)
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 04:41:09 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: shafted@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>From shafted@primenet.com Thu Nov 9 21:40:45 1995
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 00:40:18 -0700 (MST)
To: Allen T "Koji" Kam >,
toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Aric Shen >
Subject: RE: TRD
>>(Stuff about RJ going to TRD)
>He's in the Downey/Cerritos California area (area code 310).. if you go the
>Import Performance Page, he has a "web page" (I use that term loosely) there
>that lists some stuff he is manufacturing.. I have his pager number, let me
>know if you want it.. I've never met the man, but a friend of mine is a
>pretty good friend of his and he told me to page him and ask him about
>turbocharging a 4AG. I paged him, he called back and we talked for like an
>hour.. that man needs to write a book..
Ya, RJ's been around, ya can tell him the Guys from Autosport Hawaii
said hiyas =)
Ya, i do agree, need to go and pick Rj's head one day, else he forgets it
from managing that apartment complex or what ever he was doing before
Heh, will check the web page -sigh- sorta deleted my HD when
I just installed my new gig drive ... whee...
>>(More Envious Web page stuff)
>Thanks. I'd like to put something in there about the 4AG and all the
>differences between years, etc.. if anyone knows *everything* some help
>would be appriciated..
Heh, ya, not much difference, jus mostly HP/torque tuning differences...
>>Personally, I would like a T2 and a SC MR-2
>>Right now i'm stuck with a silly FWD FX-16
>Have you talked to Raikkonen Timo >, he has an FX16 that
>he turbocharged with a homemade manifold.. with severe traction problems he
>runs a low low 14.. not too bad..
Problem is, thats a european spec type vehicle, the american models
don't even come close to running those numbers...
actually, i stand corrected...i did, had a blown head gasket, thats the only
reason why hahahah -boggle- go figure that one....
>>I agree about the "American Muscle Cars" heh, Dad's got um all,
>>thats why i'm into imports =(
>Yeah, my friend always had this 1969 Camaro that he would never stop talking
>about.. problem is he's turbocharging that now.. :(
Heh, too bad didn't have more time, I would have had bragging rights
after showing Chris the 1968 Black Camaro up in Vegas =) He only saw
the blue "crusin" one ha ha ....
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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To: "Sherwin P."
Cc: Toyota List ,
Subject: Re: Fog lights
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 09:08:04 -0800
From: "Daniel I. Applebaum"
> "Sherwin P." writes:
> How are PIAA's?
I use PIAA's on both of my cars. Check out my web page:
http://www.vicor.com/danapple.html
Anyway, I have found them very durable. I live in snow country, at
6350ft in the Sierras. I use the low end PIAAs, the ones with steel
cases, because I don't need the aluminum cases, but I see their
advantages. PIAA has a wide variety of lights, supplies a top-notch
wiring harness, and the lights are the best quality, even the low end
40 Series lights that I use. I can't address how they'd look on your
car, but you can't wrong with the quality.
> Sherwin
Dan.
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From: "tuan ton"
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 09:34:15 -0800
To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Temperature.
Hello all,
Suddently the temperature in my car jumps from medium to highest and return
back to medium very quickly.It happens like that couple times (5 times) in
the last month.
I checked the level of water in radiator and it's OK.
Could anybody tell me what wrong with my car?
I'm very much appriciated for your help.
Regards,
Tuan Ton.
89 Camry V6, 73Kmiles.
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 21:43:11 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: jdewolf1@ix.netcom.com (jason dewolfe)
Subject: Re: How did ya do it?
>Jason,
>
>In the past I've allways owned larger cars and so did not have to
compromise when it came to
>installing audio equipment. Now I've got a MKII 1992 MR2 and I haven't
even thought of how to
>improve the audio configuration (6 speakers). I've installed a magnificent
alpine head unit and
>ultra small 6 stacker, but have lost direction.
>
>I still have all the sub woofers, amps, crossover etc. From out of my
other cars. Could you
>briefly describe for me how you managed to pack all of that gear into such
a little space? I
>could then make use of the abovementioned equipment!
>
>John Rose.
>Managed Information Technology Solutions.
>Victoria, Australia.
>QIK-MR2 1992 MR2 Turbo, Super Red. 17" Prestige 3 Spoke Rims.
Bridgestone RE-71.
>jrose@golf.mits.com.au
Hey, John.
The amplifiers, crossover and EQL are mounted in an amprack that I
attached to the front of the trunk (engine side).
There were two problems I had. First of all, I was forced to run all of the
required power wire, speaker wiring, and RCA cables through the engine
compartment. Besides the fact that this was very time consuming and
frustrating at times, I was surprised at the fact that I had no engine noise
in the system.(I guess I was lucky). The other problem I had was overheating
of the amplifiers. Between the heat of the amplifiers and the heat of the
engine, the enclosed trunk space was not very easy to keep cool. So I
installed three cooling fans (one for each amp) next to each amp to help
keep them a little bit cooler. This works very well, but on an occasional
hot summer day, with the radio bumpin', they will still overheat. So if you
decide to mount your amps in the trunk. be sure they have an automatic heat
sensor so they shut off at the overheat level and don't fry themselves.
The subs gave me the biggest challenge. In order to satisfy my
cubic foot needs, i had to make a couple alterations to the car. Behind
each seat, there are storage compartments (on some models, the compartment
contains a 5 1/4" mid for the stock upgraded stereo system). You will
notice a metal diveder between the storage compartment and the behind the
seat area. I removed these diveders so I was able to use as much space as
possible.
I do not have much time right now, but I wanted to respond to your question
asap. I will get back to you and try to describe the shape and demensions
of the enclosures behind the seats.
Jason Dewolfe
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 1995 11:51:09 -0700 (MST)
To: Allen T "Koji" Kam
From: Aric Shen
Subject: RE: TRD
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>Heh, too bad didn't have more time, I would have had bragging rights
>after showing Chris the 1968 Black Camaro up in Vegas =) He only saw
>the blue "crusin" one ha ha ....
Hey Koji, do you knw the guys from Eurosport ? What about Kazu Yamaguchi ?
He has a 1991 300zx Twin Turbo with 17" Volk Racing wheels ? He's in
Hawaii.. he used to have a turbo Jetta that ran low 14s or something crazy..
my other friend is out there too.. he has a 1991 MR2 Turbo with 17" Ewings..
its red and he's got a built motor (by Brian Sakata) with a TECII.. I heard
everyone in Hawaii knows each other (kinda).. just wondering..
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 1995 13:01:50 -0700 (MST)
To: "tuan ton" ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Temperature.
At 09:34 AM 11/10/95 -0800, tuan ton wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>Suddently the temperature in my car jumps from medium to highest and return
>back to medium very quickly.It happens like that couple times (5 times) in
>the last month.
>I checked the level of water in radiator and it's OK.
>Could anybody tell me what wrong with my car?
>I'm very much appriciated for your help.
>
>Regards,
>Tuan Ton.
>89 Camry V6, 73Kmiles.
>
You might want to replace your thermostat.. it might be sticking.. with 73k
you should've had it changed already..
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 07:21:47 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: TRD Order, Version 1
Ok, here's what we've got so far. I decided that since we're doing
this as a group, I'd just email everybody via TM. Please mail
back comments/corrections/clarifications to me directly, and I'll
collate it all and mail out Version 2.
Everyone else, if you are really into mod'ing your Toyota (and I
presume you are since you're on this list), you should be looking
at this stuff on sale. Everything was about 50% of retail, some-
times less. Whether you choose to buy with the group or just buy
directly, you should consider this sale.
BTW, Lance mentioned that TRD won't ship outside the US--even to
Canada! I will though, so let me know what you need if you're
outside the US.
Chris
-------------------Begin Order Version 1----------------------
TRD Order: (See Notes at Bottom)
Aly (abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu), 85 MR2:
Header (Not available)
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-AW110, $119.88, $65.49
Spring Set, Race, 48110-AW100, $184.43, $96.71
Spring Set, Street, 48130-AW100, $269.95. $128.40
Strut Set, 48500-AW100, $323.58, $150.52
Lance (lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com), 91 MR2 Turbo:
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-SW200, $145.41, $76.01
John (jrredho@universe.digex.net), 4x4 Pickup, 22RE:
Header, EFI, 85-87, 128-524Y-O, $269.00 , $128.50
Header, EFI, 88-92, 128-555Y-O, $347.00 , $157.55
Adrienne (AdeM@WAIRC.GOVT.NZ), MR2
Strut Set(85-86), 48500-AW100, $323.58, $150.52
Strut Set(87-89), 48500-AW100, $357.54, $165.66
Spring Set, Race, 48110-AW100, $184.43, $96.71
Spring Set, Street, 48130-AW100, $269.95. $128.40
Chris (cmyer@cyberauto.com), 63 Tightwad:
Two of everything. Can't pass up a good deal.
Notes:
MR2 owners: Rear Strut on 84.6-86.5 different from
86.9-89.12. Everything else same.
Bob, Aly: Sorry, No MR2 headers! 4AG Corolla only.
Ade: Koji says the TRD struts are good. Comment
Koji?
Truck/Celica owners: Headers are Doug Thorley. You
won't get a header this good at this price
again.
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 07:56:02 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: tuan ton
Cc: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Temperature.
On Sat, 11 Nov 1995, Aric Shen wrote:
> You might want to replace your thermostat.. it might be sticking.. with 73k
> you should've had it changed already..
Also worth checking is that the wire from the sensor has not worn through
and shorting on the body or engine - this happenned to me - only went
really hot around corners when the wire touched the rocker cover. If the
temperature increases instantaneously and then drops in the same way I
would guess the problem is a short.
Cheers,
Paul.
--
Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@dstc.edu.au
Research Scientist - Distributed Systems Technology Centre
B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA
Phone:(+61 7 55 953 324) Fax:(+61 7 55 953 320)
WWW : http://www.dstc.Bond.edu.au/~paulp/
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 12:44:22 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD Order / ADE
From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Sun Nov 12 03:04:59 1995
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 07:21:47 -0500
From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: RE: TRD Order, Version 1
>Chris (cmyer@cyberauto.com), 63 Tightwad:
> Two of everything. Can't pass up a good deal.
Ditto that, Cheap... Buy TWO !!!!
>Notes:
> MR2 owners: Rear Strut on 84.6-86.5 different from
> 86.9-89.12. Everything else same.
> Bob, Aly: Sorry, No MR2 headers! 4AG Corolla only.
> Ade: Koji says the TRD struts are good. Comment
> Koji?
Installed some in a 1987 MR-2, works dang great, non adjustable
though, and ride comfort isn't that much of a loss.
Don't think you have a choice of low pressure / high pressure though...
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 17:54:49 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Turbo Timers
Hey, what was the latest concensus on who makes the best turbo timer?
I know that we kicked this around about a month ago, but I don't remember
if we ever came up with anything definitive one way or the other. Can
someone summarize? (Koji, get this down in the FAQ...)
Chris
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 19:22:42 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: About those prices
In case anyone didn't figure it out, those prices I put out on that TRD
sale were retail, followed by sale.
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-AW110, $119.88, $65.49
(retail) (sale)
Sorry I didn't mention it before.
Chris
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 19:32:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Bruce
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Kevin Bruce
Blacklick Ohio
1993 Toy 2WD P/Up 22RE
22RE
Front Lowered 2" Susp.Tech front Stab Bar. Rancho 9000's in front.
Rear lowered 2". Addco Stab Bar (Which was bought before Suspension
Techniques Bar was available) Ranch AirRancho's shocks in rear. The
Addco bar physically interferred with the set of AirLift "Coil-Spring
Add-On" Air Bags that were on. Air-Lifts now waiting on a shelf for a Rear
Sus Tech's Bar.
Also added through the extensive Junk Yard outlet in Columbus Ohio Power
Steering. Which was basically the Pump,Lines,All mounting parts,and the
Power Gear Box. Have run over 6,000 Miles so far,and this Add-on
functioning reliably. (I don;t know how the Power Steering system will
react when the temperature starts to drop though.)
So far, no internal modifications to 22RE. Plan on adding Borla SS Exhaust
when original shows some sign of wear. Added KN fabric air filter.
Am a member and reader (though very frequently post to)the Toyota list.
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: progressive springs
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 20:47:18 -0500 (EST)
TO ALL,
CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TRD AND EIBACH PROGRESSIVE
SPRINGS? I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THEY ARE ACTUALLY THE SAME SPRING AND IF
THEY ARE NOT, HAS ANYONE HAD EXPERIENCE WITH THE TRD PROGRESSIVE STREET
SPRINGS WHO CAN TELL ME ABOUT THEM? I WANT TO KNOW IF THEY LOWER THE CAR
MORE THAN THE EIBACH PROGRESSIVES. I LIKE THE STOCK RIDE HEIGHT AND HAVE
BEEN TOLD THAT THE EIBACHS WOULD NOT LOWER THE CAR MORE THAN AN INCH WHICH I
LIKE. BUT THE TRD PRICE IS SO GOOD RIGHT NOW WITH THE YEAR END SALE, THAT I
DON'T WANT TO PASS IT UP IF THE TRD SPRINGS ARE GOOD. PLEASE RESPOND AS
SOON AS POSSIBLE AS I NEED TO TELL CHRIS WHETHER I WANT TO ORDER THE TRDS OR
NOT.
Thank you,
Aly
'85 MR2, all options
(yes even the black spoiler)
Looking for more power
the best handling
and the most cost effective mods.
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: Subscription
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 13:26:17 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I couldn't mail bruce directly, so I have had to post it here
>
> Mods ::(4A-C ->4A-G no real 4A-G's in Aus, Stock EFI +Loom,
> 264 inlet, 256 exhaust, 50mm exhaust, custom extractors
> ,stronger clutch, disk brake rear, TRD LSD, 4.625, short
> throw shifter, Alloy roll cage, custom springs, strut brace
> 142 BHP (at 97 RON), upgraded struts, 14inch rims with
> 195 60 series Dunlop Formula-R tyres
Just a quick question, how did you work out your 142hp? Is that a guess from
a chassis dyno or a engine dyno readout?
Also what sort of rpm for your peak power?
Reason I am asking is that I wanted a guide to see what sort of power curve
my 4AGE has compared to others, but I have chassis dyno figures.
Your cam sounds like a stock duration to me (or close to it). Did you get
that made up here (I don;t know anyone with billets for a 4AGE, so that would
have had to be welded up)
> other : Future Mods, 10:3 crank block + rods, 250cc injectors,
> flywheel.
I've lightened my flywheel, not real good unless you have heaps of power to go
with it. Becomes a bit of a pig to drive otherwise. Then again, it is probably
just my car 8-)
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 22:10:59 -0800
To: aly abulkheir ,
Subject: Re: progressive springs
On Nov 12, 8:47pm, aly abulkheir wrote:
> Subject: progressive springs
Hi Aly,
> CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TRD AND EIBACH PROGRESSIVE
> SPRINGS? I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THEY ARE ACTUALLY THE SAME SPRING AND IF
> THEY ARE NOT, HAS ANYONE HAD EXPERIENCE WITH THE TRD PROGRESSIVE STREET
> SPRINGS WHO CAN TELL ME ABOUT THEM? I WANT TO KNOW IF THEY LOWER THE CAR
> MORE THAN THE EIBACH PROGRESSIVES. I LIKE THE STOCK RIDE HEIGHT AND HAVE
> BEEN TOLD THAT THE EIBACHS WOULD NOT LOWER THE CAR MORE THAN AN INCH WHICH I
> LIKE. BUT THE TRD PRICE IS SO GOOD RIGHT NOW WITH THE YEAR END SALE, THAT I
> DON'T WANT TO PASS IT UP IF THE TRD SPRINGS ARE GOOD. PLEASE RESPOND AS
> SOON AS POSSIBLE AS I NEED TO TELL CHRIS WHETHER I WANT TO ORDER THE TRDS OR
> NOT.
Number 1, you could stop screaming :^) or atleast take the caps lock
off... I think we all got your message. Speaking of Eibachs, you will not
find a better progressive rate spring out in the market... but if you are
looking to just lower the ride height of your car you might as well go with
the TRD. Eibach progressive does not lower the ride height alot... more like
an 1" to 1 1/2". The TRD's do sit a little lower as well as ride harsher
(comporable to Suspension Technique progressive rates). The TRD springs are
great springs in the sense of performance and a great buy especially for the
year-end sale price. You can always sell them later if you are not happy with
them and buy Eibachs instead.
Allan
--
*******************************************************************************
Allan Chen A peak disturbs the horizon. The wave builds as it
Silicon Graphics Inc. slowly crumbles. A lone man races the crest hoping
Mountain View, CA for the moment where wave, board, and rider becomes
allanc@sgi.com one... Only a surfer knows the feeling.
*******************************************************************************
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 01:13:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "KeNdRiCk W."
To: toyota mods
Subject: Re: momo steering wheel.
I have a 12" momo monte carlo steering wheel from my previous car. I
would very much want to put in on my 93 MR2 since i hate the stock
steering wheel, it's too big andmy lap always rub the wheel.
i was wondering has anyone tried to put a aftermarket steering wheel in a
MKII?
i am hesitating becuz i don't know if i can still use the cruise control
and whether i should sacrifice stafety by removing the airbag.
93'Turbo |\__/+--+-\____ |-\ /-|-----\|-----\
@50.0k Km |_--##---------=>| \/ | |_) /|--) _)
@== "(*)------(*)-/ | |\/| | _ < __/ /__
[KeNdRiCk W.] "Betty" |_| |_|_| \_\|_______|
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From: "Gregory Chan"
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 09:16:33 EDT
Subject: 85 4A-GE engine modifications
Hi all,
I'm new on this list and I will try to provide some info
about myself. My name is Gregory Chan and I am from Toronto,
Ontario. I have an 85 Corolla GTS with a 4A-GE engine. Modifications
include 11:1 pistons, 288 cams, HKS clutch, bored out throttle body,
modified temperature sensor , modified EGR system and a retuned
air flow meter.I have also installed Dobi headers and a custom
exhaust system (2.5") with a Dynomax turbo muffler and a cherry bomb
resonator up front instead of the catalytic converter.
I am currently subscribed to the general Toyota list and the
Z-car list and I had posted a query which did not receive any reply
(on the Toyota list). I have looked for and found this list and hope
that someone here may be able to provide some insight to my current
problem. I currently have all of the above modifications installed on
my vehicle with the most current one being the addition of the bored
out throttle body which I installed Saturday. After installing it I
found that the car would not rev past 2,500 rpm. It cuts out and when
the rpms drop it catches back. It seems as if the rev limiter comes
in. I do not have a manual to play around with the throttle position
sensor and I wouls be very thankful if someone could provide me with
some info about how to go about solving this problem.
Gregory Chan
GCHAN@compserv.senecac.on.ca
85 Corolla GTS + 73 Datsun 240Z
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To: "tuan ton"
Cc: toy4x4 ,
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 13 Nov 95 8:25:25
Subject: Temperature.
That happened to me a couple of months ago..... apparently the wire leading to
the water temperature sending unit rubbed on some piece of metal. This
'rubbing' ate through the wire's insulation. When open wire touches the metal,
it causes the meter to go 'full-scale' since the sending unit is bypassed.....
then after a stretch of bumpy road, the meter goes back to normal.
I hope that helps...
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18R-G
_______________________________________________________________________________
To: toy4x4 @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet, toyota-mods @
cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet
cc: (bcc: John Limcangco)
From: tuant @ rcpi119.csd.sgi.com ("tuan ton") @ internet
Date: 11/10/95 10:34 PM
Subject: Temperature.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Hello all,
Suddently the temperature in my car jumps from medium to highest and return
back to medium very quickly.It happens like that couple times (5 times) in
the last month.
I checked the level of water in radiator and it's OK.
Could anybody tell me what wrong with my car?
I'm very much appriciated for your help.
Regards,
Tuan Ton.
89 Camry V6, 73Kmiles.
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From: Mark Sink - Imonics Corporation
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 10:18:36 -0500
To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: progressive springs
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I bought TRD sptrings for my '87 about 2 yrs ago. If they are still the
same, this is what I got. TRD Street Spring. Not rally, Not Race. These
spring were made for TRD by Eibach. They even have the Eibach stickers
on the spring. They are progressive rate also. I do not know how they
differ from the "normal" Eibach progressives. My car was not lowered
very much. Maybe an inch, so I think you will be happy with them as far
as that is concerned. You do need to upgrade your struts if you are
going to get these springs.
Mark Sink
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 10:00:27 -0600 (CST)
From: Chris Hilliard
To: "KeNdRiCk W."
Cc: toyota mods
Subject: Re: momo steering wheel.
On Mon, 13 Nov 1995, KeNdRiCk W. wrote:
>
> I have a 12" momo monte carlo steering wheel from my previous car. I
>
> i am hesitating becuz i don't know if i can still use the cruise control
> and whether i should sacrifice stafety by removing the airbag.
>
Momo imprints on the forehead look cool but I've heard they can
be painful! ;) Leave it on. This is your life that you are playing with
here. cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org
Chris Hilliard
****************************************************************
* |\/\/\/| ___________________
* | | / \
* | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____
* | (0)(0) / \ / at \
* C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org |
* | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ /
* | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, /
* /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------
*/ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! /
***************************************\____________________________/
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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 13:22:36 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Subscription
To Whom it may concern
Name : Bruce Connelly
Location ::(Melbourne/Australia)
Model ::(1983 Sprinter/AE86 short nose like UK model)
Engine ::(4A-GE Small crank 9.4:1 pistons)
Mods ::(4A-C ->4A-G no real 4A-G's in Aus, Stock EFI +Loom,
264 inlet, 256 exhaust, 50mm exhaust, custom extractors
,stronger clutch, disk brake rear, TRD LSD, 4.625, short
throw shifter, Alloy roll cage, custom springs, strut brace
142 BHP (at 97 RON), upgraded struts, 14inch rims with
195 60 series Dunlop Formula-R tyres
email : BCONNELLY@VNET.IBM.COM
other : Future Mods, 10:3 crank block + rods, 250cc injectors,
flywheel.
job : I work for IBM and my account is Toyota Australia, I look
after EPC, the CD ROM based parts ordering system for the
world.
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 10:59:26 -0800
From: Frank Rideg
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 Mailing List
Please include me on the MR2 mod's mailing list.
I own a 1993 MR-2 Turbo
T-Tops
Frank Rideg
9356 Laurentian Drive
San Diego, CA 92129
Phone: Home 619-538-2328
Phone: Work 619-552-9448
Fax: 619-552-9600
Best regards,
Frank Rideg
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From: Gary Hong
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Question from Allen Chen
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 15:19:43 PST
I'm on the phone with Allen right now and he wants me to ask the list:
What is the difference between an AE101 and a AE92 Corolla?
Gary
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 20:17:54 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Question from Allen Chen
>I'm on the phone with Allen right now and he wants me to ask the list:
>
>What is the difference between an AE101 and a AE92 Corolla?
Tell him "Nine".
Chris
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From: looit@cs_srv1.mh.dpi.qld.gov.au
Subject: Re: Question from Allen Chen
To: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Hong)
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 11:24:41 +1000 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> What is the difference between an AE101 and a AE92 Corolla?
>
I think that they are totally different models
(someone will correct me if I'm wrong)
The AE92 came out in 89?? and the AE101 is the current?? one.
The AE92 is the last incarnation of the AE86 type shape, the 101 is a bit bigger
but please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
The AE101 has different engines I think (4AGE 20 valve among them)
TEd
--
#############################################################################
SSSS X X TTTTTT CCCCC
S S X X TT C ted@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C looit@dpi.qld.gov.au
SSSS XX ---- TT C
S S X X TT C
SSSS X X TT CCCCC "TALK TO ME" or ...
# Coma?? Coma doesn't hurt, I fall into a coma all the time...zzzzzzz....!!! #
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 21:47:51 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: TRD Order, Version 2
Well, here's version 2 of the TRD order. Had a little setback on this
today, though. TRD won't sell to me. Seems that they absolutely
refuse to sell to me except through Select Sales, in Miami. Well, Select
Sales is getting the exact same prices as the public is on these prices,
so that's a no-go. So, I am going to have to be a little more creative
about how I go about getting this.
What it does mean is that if you are able to order from TRD directly,
that may be necessary. I'm still trying to work something out with
my TRD contact in California, so let's not change anything for the
next few hours. I just wanted to let everyone know where we're at on
this. For folks that need me to order the stuff and ship to them outside
the US, this will not be a problem. For folks who may find themselves in
a similar situation and not be able to get stuff directly from TRD,
I'll order for them and ship to them. This applies to anyone in Florida,
plus any other state that has authorized TRD distributor. Be sure, I
will get my parts--I'm way to crafty to let them jerk me around on this.
Anyhow, here's the list as it stands right now. I'll let everyone know
NLT tomorrow if we need to change anything. Thanks to everyone who was
willing to put the order through CAP to help me out. I hope I haven't
disappointed anyone.
---------------TRD Order, Version 2--------------------------------------
TRD Order:
(Prices are retail, then sale)
Aly (abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu), 85 MR2:
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-AW110, $119.88, $65.49
Spring Set, Street, 48130-AW100, $269.95. $128.40
Lance (lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com), 91 MR2 Turbo:
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-SW200, $145.41, $76.01
John (jrredho@universe.digex.net), 85 4x4 Pickup, 22RE:
Header, EFI, 85-87, 128-524Y-O, $269.00 , $128.50
Jack (toy4x4@ro.com), 86 4x4 Pickup, 22R:
Header, EFI, 85-87, 128-524Y-O, $269.00 , $128.50
Timing Gear Set, OEM Spec, 13520-4076S, $103.85, $44.36
(w/gears, double chain, and tensioners, I think!)
Adrienne (AdeM@WAIRC.GOVT.NZ), MR2:
Strut Set(85-86), 48500-AW100, $323.58, $150.52
Strut Set(87-89), 48500-AW100, $357.54, $165.66
Spring Set, Race, 48110-AW100, $184.43, $96.71
Spring Set, Street, 48130-AW100, $269.95. $128.40
Frederick (fmarsh@helix.nih.gov), 85 Celica GTS
Header, EFI, 82-85, 128-504Y-O, $269.00 , $126.50
Al (acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu), 85 MR2
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-AW110, $119.88, $65.49
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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From: Gary Hong
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Celica + Camry?
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 20:16:59 PST
Hey Chris and all,
Will a 3s-fe engine from a 90 Camry fit in an 82 Celica? These are pretty
peppy little engines and I see a few in the junkyard from time to time.
Thanks,
Gary
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From: Gary Hong
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Question from Allen Chen
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 20:32:14 PST
From: Christopher Myer
>
>>I'm on the phone with Allen right now and he wants me to ask the list:
>>
>>What is the difference between an AE101 and a AE92 Corolla?
>
>Tell him "Nine".
>
>Chris
Hehe.. I told him to get out his calculator cuz chris said it was nine! :)
He sez - HA HA.
Well, he'll be working tonight so you'll be hearing from the sleepy man himself.
Gary
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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 00:58:13 -0700 (MST)
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer),
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Turbo Timers
At 05:54 PM 11/12/95 -0500, Christopher Myer wrote:
>Hey, what was the latest concensus on who makes the best turbo timer?
>I know that we kicked this around about a month ago, but I don't remember
>if we ever came up with anything definitive one way or the other. Can
>someone summarize? (Koji, get this down in the FAQ...)
>
>Chris
>
The new Greddy one is pretty damn cheap and has two presets, chiming music,
and trick LED displays.. I don't like the new HKS cuz it doesn't have
presets (just stays on what you left it on last).. I heard people talk about
the "automatic" ones.. they're pretty cool.. but generally cost a bit more..
my friend has one he brought back from Japan.. I forgot the name, but it was
really colorful and had bar graphs n' stuff.. it works pretty well.. but I
still cant figure out how it determines how long it keeps your car on..
he'll drive hard, the time will go up, if he drives slow for a little bit,
the time will go down.. he said it hooked up just like his old manual turbo
timer.. no extra connections.. anyone else know whats up with that ?
% Aric Shen
% Speedline Racing Concepts
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic
% "Life begins at 9000 RPM"
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From: charlesg@touch.caltech.edu (Charles Grosjean)
Subject: Re: Turbo Timers
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 00:40:43 -0800 (PST)
> presets (just stays on what you left it on last).. I heard people talk about
> the "automatic" ones.. they're pretty cool.. but generally cost a bit more..
> he'll drive hard, the time will go up, if he drives slow for a little bit,
> the time will go down.. he said it hooked up just like his old manual turbo
> timer.. no extra connections.. anyone else know whats up with that ?
The Levoc has a wire that goes to the tach output and does some form of time
average, the annoying thing is that it will get up to 3 or 4 minutes sometime
just because you're driving for a long time, for instance from LA to SF.
Charles
> % Aric Shen
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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 01:34:42 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Camry + Celica
From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Mon Nov 13 19:23:09 1995
From: Gary Hong
Subject: Celica + Camry?
>Hey Chris and all,
>Will a 3s-fe engine from a 90 Camry fit in an 82 Celica? These are pretty
>peppy little engines and I see a few in the junkyard from time to time.
Yes it would, but you wanna go FWD ?!?!?
>Thanks,
>Gary
You can convert it to RWD, but i'd go with a 5M motor or a 7MG motor offhand
easy conversion and it does fit =)
-Koji
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From: "Vodicka, Roger"
To: "'toyota-mods'"
Subject: Cleaning EGR
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 95 11:47:00 PST
On Fri, 3 Nov 1995, Richard Leong wrote:
> rather dirty. I still haven't checked the EGR valve though, it's in a bad
> spot.
>
Hey everyone,
Does anyone have a procedure for cleaning the EGR valve?
For the 3S-GE and 3S-FE, the EGR valve is located between the fire wall
and throttle body.
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, auto, 3S-FE, 95K miles
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before you go cleaning the EGR try to see if it is blocked.
This procedure is roughly straight out of the Haynes manual.
*Remove the vacuum hose that connects to the EGR
*Put a piece of hose on the connector and apply a vacuum (use
a hand vacuum pump - or even suck on it with your mouth!)
*The engine should now run rough at idle. If it doesn't the EGR is blocked
or
unserviceable. If the EGR fails to hold a vacuum it is unserviceable.
If it needs cleaning you have to remove the EGR. Make sure you have
some silicone gasket material handy to replace the old throttle body gasket.
You need to remove the throttle body to get enough room to get to the EGR.
To clean it:
Disconnect the EGR and all the connecting pipes and clear out all
the carbon with a pipe cleaner. I just used a bit of wire to clear out
all the crud - occasionally tapping on the ground to dislodge some of it.
It worked well for me. I plan to do it at regular intervals. Hesitation on
accelaration
(when cold) is a sign that the EGR may be blocked.
Roger Vodicka.
roger.vodicka@dsto.defence.gov.au
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From: Raikkonen Timo
To: "Allen T \"Koji\" Kam" ,
Subject: RE: TRD
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 95 21:16:00 PST
Hi there!
Where can I find the "web page" for this specialist for turbocharging
4A-G...
I didn't find "the page" from Import Performance Page. Is there any e-mail
for this man also? I'd like to discuss with him about the subject mentioned
above...
Thanks for any info!
Timo (traikkonen@c2000.fi)
PS. Koji! I saw a picture of your car somewhere and I liked it. I have
always
dreamd to build someday that vehicle! We have some build Toyotas with
that chassis here in Finland - some of them turboed. By the way, my
previous turbo car was '79 HT Coupe Corolla (KE35) - I have some
pictures where it looks almost the same as your KE75 - original with 1.2
liter 3K engine. I did with some modifications to it (I'm sorry it wasn't
KE75)
- 2TGE-U engine (modified to over 2 liter), modified head, turboed with
(Garret T3) & intercooled, lowered, 15" tyres (tried 16")... It was quite
fast with 1.4 bar of boost, but the body was from deep down...
He's in the Downey/Cerritos California area (area code 310).. if you go the
Import Performance Page, he has a "web page" (I use that term loosely) there
that lists some stuff he is manufacturing.. I have his pager number, let me
know if you want it.. I've never met the man, but a friend of mine is a
pretty good friend of his and he told me to page him and ask him about
turbocharging a 4AG. I paged him, he called back and we talked for like an
hour.. that man needs to write a book..
>BTW, been meaning to commend you on your web pages and such.
>Also choice of vehicles.
Thanks. I'd like to put something in there about the 4AG and all the
differences between years, etc.. if anyone knows *everything* some help
would be appriciated..
>
>Personally, I would like a T2 and a SC MR-2
>Right now i'm stuck with a silly FWD FX-16
Have you talked to Raikkonen Timo , he has an FX16 that
he turbocharged with a homemade manifold.. with severe traction problems he
runs a low low 14.. not too bad..
>
>I agree about the "American Muscle Cars" heh, Dad's got um all,
>thats why i'm into imports =(
Yeah, my friend always had this 1969 Camaro that he would never stop talking
about.. problem is he's turbocharging that now.. :(
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Subject: me/mine/mods
From: RDRAHE41@maine.maine.edu
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 01:44:56 EST
Name: Roger R. Draheim
Location: Sophomore at University of Maine
Cellular and Molecular Biology Major
Model: 1980 Toyota Celica Supra
Engine: 4-ME
Mods: None
email: rdrahe41@maine.maine.edu
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From: Gary Hong
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Camry + Celica
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 0:04:44 PST
From: Allen T Koji Kam
>
>From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Mon Nov 13 19:23:09 1995
>From: Gary Hong
>Subject: Celica + Camry?
>
>>Hey Chris and all,
>
>>Will a 3s-fe engine from a 90 Camry fit in an 82 Celica? These are pretty
>>peppy little engines and I see a few in the junkyard from time to time.
>
>Yes it would, but you wanna go FWD ?!?!?
No waz dude! I'll be rear wheel drive! So, would it hook up to my tranny?
Gary
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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 05:38:56 -0500
From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: mrj
I remembered seeing some questions about the mrj a while ago.
If interested pls check
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Motorshow/Booth/mrj-m.html
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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 00:42:09 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Aly's Projected Mods (Fowarded)
Sorry Aly, I thought I lost this post -whew- but it was on the email following
this one >=)
This is fowarded so please fix the response to Aly
-Koji
From abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu Tue Nov 14 15:24:41 1995
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: Aly's Projected Mods
To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu (Allen T "Koji" Kam)
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 13:58:54 -0500 (EST)
Allan,
You answered my projected upgrades about a week ago, and I just
wanted to discuss each one a little more. I commented on your answers one
at a time, please do the same also, it's very helpful that way.
> First Off, performance is for all around, I take it, Spirited Street
> Since you have emissions in Cali, perhaps messing around with the air
> flow meter would help a bit espically when ya get farther down the list...
Your right in your assumption, I do occaisional autocrossing, but mainly
I just want the car to be more satisfying on the street.
Oh by the way, I'm in lower New York.
When you
say "mess around with the air flow meter" do you mean just cracking the
seal and messing with the dial? Or some other kind of tuning?
Besides, I'm told turning it one way will add more low end, but you'll
lose some top end, and vice versa.
> >> TRD Header 5-8 130
>
> Which TRD Header ? The Doug Thorley one ? or the TRD Custom one ?
I didn't know there were two. The TRD catalog only lists one.
What's the difference between the two, and are they both a TRI-Y
design? I read in the Toyota Performance Handbook that the
Tri-Y design will help low end performance and make the most
difference compared to a 4 into 1. Chris at TRD told me that
the TRD header is a TRI-Y.
> >> HKS or Trust Exhaust 6-10 138
>
> I'd say go with the HKS, the Trust on my 2 friends car all blew out all
> the fiber within 4 months (this is in Hawaii and not many open roads)
> Plus the MR-2 needs a little backpressure, too free the exhaust is bad
> we confirmed that, and the price for the Trust -ouch- maybe the Japan
> "racing" Trust exhaust, because the American Trust "racing" is the Japan
> "street" exhaust -shrug-
Just to clarify, are you saying that the HKS offers more back pressure?
Will this back pressure give the car better low end power?
The conclusion I have come to from what you are saying and from what
Chris Myer said is that the Trust may add more HP, but the HKS will
add more torque, which is what will be felt. Majority say HKS, but Ultima
Performance in Long Island (they advertise in Turbo Magazine) insist that
the Trust performs better.
And is there ANY other muffler out there that costs less?
I want modifications which will make a difference in acceleration
feel. I want more pull. I am still not convinced that I will feel
much difference by just changing the muffler, and these mufflers
cost so much, they just don't seem worth it if they aren't going to
make a noticeable difference in how the car feels during
acceleration. I do understand though that people (HKS, mainly) say that the
stock muffler is the most restrictive piece on a car.
I plan on doing the Air Filter first, then the Ignition Amp,
then the Header, and then the Exhaust. This seems like the most
cost effective way for the most bang for the buck.
What I am wondering is, after the first three mods, will changing the
muffler really add ANY MORE noticeable difference in addition to the first
three mods?
The reason I am leaving the muffler for last (most people say do it first)
is (1) because I just put on a new stock muffler and I want to get my
money's worth out of it, (2) the price of these mufflers, and (3) 2 people who
have changed the muffler only (without any other mods) say that they feel no
difference, and that you won't feel any difference without some air intake
work (air filter). ie, you can't take more out if you don't put more in.
What do you think about this?
> >> HKS Clutch (or similar quality)
What other clutches are available? I'm looking for something that's
going to grab better than the stock '85 clutch, it slips too much.
But also I would like to see if I can get a better price than that
of an HKS/Centerforce.
>
> >> Then when that's done:
> >> HKS Camshafts and Gears 8-10 146
>
> I would get the cam timing gears as one of your first mods, get the
> adjustables, if not the non "adjustables" are about $80
Do you mean getting the timing gears without the HKS camshafts?
What will this do for the motor? And if I am going to pay for the
labor of changing the cam gears, shouldn't I change the camshafts
anyway?
> >> Then if there's some money around:
> >> HKS Stroker Kit 32 180
>
> Check the availibility of this kit...
Is HKS considering discontinuing it?
> My impression so far, is that TRD USA is going to be bought out
> by perhaps Greddy or someone, and TRD Japan will be the only
> "true" source for TRD parts.
Does this mean that I should buy a TRD Tri-Y header as soon as possible?
Your input is very appreciated.
Thank you,
Aly
'85 MR2, all options
(Yes, even the black spoiler)
Looking for some more power,
the best handling,
and the most cost effective mods.
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 00:52:13 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Gary Camry + Celica
From garyh@sco.COM Tue Nov 14 23:11:09 1995
From: Gary Hong
Subject: RE: Camry + Celica
>From: Allen T Koji Kam
>>Subject: Celica + Camry?
>>>Will a 3s-fe engine from a 90 Camry fit in an 82 Celica? These are pretty
>>>peppy little engines and I see a few in the junkyard from time to time.
>>Yes it would, but you wanna go FWD ?!?!?
>No waz dude! I'll be rear wheel drive! So, would it hook up to my tranny?
Actually, heh ya can get a transadapter for any engine to your RWD
Celica.
>Gary
Not sure if a 3S-FE is a good motor for cost efficient performance parts, however there are a lot of goodies for it >=)
-koji
-Koji
-KOji
-KOJi
-KOJI
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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 00:56:58 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Aly's Projected Mods
-Fowarded by koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu-
-Fix Response address -
From abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu Tue Nov 14 15:24:41 1995
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: Aly's Projected Mods
To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu (Allen T "Koji" Kam)
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 13:58:54 -0500 (EST)
Allan,
You answered my projected upgrades about a week ago, and I just
wanted to discuss each one a little more. I commented on your answers one
at a time, please do the same also, it's very helpful that way.
> First Off, performance is for all around, I take it, Spirited Street
> Since you have emissions in Cali, perhaps messing around with the air
> flow meter would help a bit espically when ya get farther down the list...
Your right in your assumption, I do occaisional autocrossing, but mainly
I just want the car to be more satisfying on the street.
Oh by the way, I'm in lower New York.
When you
say "mess around with the air flow meter" do you mean just cracking the
seal and messing with the dial? Or some other kind of tuning?
Besides, I'm told turning it one way will add more low end, but you'll
lose some top end, and vice versa.
> >> TRD Header 5-8 130
>
> Which TRD Header ? The Doug Thorley one ? or the TRD Custom one ?
I didn't know there were two. The TRD catalog only lists one.
What's the difference between the two, and are they both a TRI-Y
design? I read in the Toyota Performance Handbook that the
Tri-Y design will help low end performance and make the most
difference compared to a 4 into 1. Chris at TRD told me that
the TRD header is a TRI-Y.
> >> HKS or Trust Exhaust 6-10 138
>
> I'd say go with the HKS, the Trust on my 2 friends car all blew out all
> the fiber within 4 months (this is in Hawaii and not many open roads)
> Plus the MR-2 needs a little backpressure, too free the exhaust is bad
> we confirmed that, and the price for the Trust -ouch- maybe the Japan
> "racing" Trust exhaust, because the American Trust "racing" is the Japan
> "street" exhaust -shrug-
Just to clarify, are you saying that the HKS offers more back pressure?
Will this back pressure give the car better low end power?
The conclusion I have come to from what you are saying and from what
Chris Myer said is that the Trust may add more HP, but the HKS will
add more torque, which is what will be felt. Majority say HKS, but Ultima
Performance in Long Island (they advertise in Turbo Magazine) insist that
the Trust performs better.
And is there ANY other muffler out there that costs less?
I want modifications which will make a difference in acceleration
feel. I want more pull. I am still not convinced that I will feel
much difference by just changing the muffler, and these mufflers
cost so much, they just don't seem worth it if they aren't going to
make a noticeable difference in how the car feels during
acceleration. I do understand though that people (HKS, mainly) say that the
stock muffler is the most restrictive piece on a car.
I plan on doing the Air Filter first, then the Ignition Amp,
then the Header, and then the Exhaust. This seems like the most
cost effective way for the most bang for the buck.
What I am wondering is, after the first three mods, will changing the
muffler really add ANY MORE noticeable difference in addition to the first
three mods?
The reason I am leaving the muffler for last (most people say do it first)
is (1) because I just put on a new stock muffler and I want to get my
money's worth out of it, (2) the price of these mufflers, and (3) 2 people who
have changed the muffler only (without any other mods) say that they feel no
difference, and that you won't feel any difference without some air intake
work (air filter). ie, you can't take more out if you don't put more in.
What do you think about this?
> >> HKS Clutch (or similar quality)
What other clutches are available? I'm looking for something that's
going to grab better than the stock '85 clutch, it slips too much.
But also I would like to see if I can get a better price than that
of an HKS/Centerforce.
>
> >> Then when that's done:
> >> HKS Camshafts and Gears 8-10 146
>
> I would get the cam timing gears as one of your first mods, get the
> adjustables, if not the non "adjustables" are about $80
Do you mean getting the timing gears without the HKS camshafts?
What will this do for the motor? And if I am going to pay for the
labor of changing the cam gears, shouldn't I change the camshafts
anyway?
> >> Then if there's some money around:
> >> HKS Stroker Kit 32 180
>
> Check the availibility of this kit...
Is HKS considering discontinuing it?
> My impression so far, is that TRD USA is going to be bought out
> by perhaps Greddy or someone, and TRD Japan will be the only
> "true" source for TRD parts.
Does this mean that I should buy a TRD Tri-Y header as soon as possible?
Your input is very appreciated.
Thank you,
Aly
'85 MR2, all options
(Yes, even the black spoiler)
Looking for some more power,
the best handling,
and the most cost effective mods.
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 01:26:30 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: mdowe@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: mrj
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 15 01:17:33 1995
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 05:38:56 -0500
From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca
Subject: mrj
>I remembered seeing some questions about the mrj a while ago.
>If interested pls check
>http://www.toyota.co.jp/Motorshow/Booth/mrj-m.html
Ya, got the screen saver too, but it don't work =(
-Koji
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From: miller@dg-rtp.dg.com (Mark T. Miller)
Subject: '86 MR2 front end "rumble/shake?"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 12:05:25 -0500 (EST)
I am looking at an '86 MR2 with 53,000 miles on it.
It is in very fine shape, but has one problem that I have not been
able to diagnose accurately:
It is a little hard to descibe, but when going over rough pavement you
feel a rumbling coming from the hole front end, this is even more noticable
if you a decelerating while going over rough pavement.
It is very noticable, and you hear it as well as feel it.
I had the car up on the rack, and nothing appears to be loose. All the
front end components are tight, there is no play in the tie rods, ball
joints, sway bar, etc. No matter how I try to manually wiggle the car
I can not find anything loose.
The best guess from the "front end person" that was looking at this with me
is that the stuts simply need replacing.
Does anyone know if this sounds correct?
Does anyone know if this problem can be due to bad struts, or better
yet has anyone seen this problem, and fixed it??!
Thanks for any input, since I am negotiating with the dealer, I would
appreciate it, if you would copy me directly to any response you might
send to the mr2-interest list, as I get the digested version.
THANKS!
Mark.
--
Mark T. Miller miller@dg-rtp.dg.com
...uunet!xyzzy!miller
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From: Gary Hong
To: koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Gary Camry + Celica
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 12:38:01 PST
>>No waz dude! I'll be rear wheel drive! So, would it hook up to my tranny?
>
>Actually, heh ya can get a transadapter for any engine to your RWD
>Celica.
>
>>Gary
Who sells the transadapter. I should have been a mechanical engineer. I would
put a chevy 350 in it! (Ok, I'm throwing around ideas again... sigh)
Gary
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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 14:33:34 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fgibbins@sirius.uvic.ca (Frank Gibbins)
Subject: 88 MR2... Good Deal?
Hi there,
I have the option to buy a 1988 Supercharged MR2. This car has 98k on it
and is lady driven, highway miles, summertime only. This super-clean car
has even got the original paint on the underside... and it's shiny. I live
in Victoria B.C. (Canada), so the price is in Canadaian dollars.... 7500.00.
This equates to about 5700 U.S. I don't really know the value of the car
but it sounds pretty good. What I really want to know is how good the
Supercharged models are? Are they still efficient, are they low
maintenance, are they dependable, any inherant problems? I have an 85 GT-S
with an 87 4A-GE that gets about 30 mpg at 125 H.P. But the MR2 sounds a
lot faster. The thing drives like it's on rails and it's really well
maintained. What do you guys think? Does anyone know what the blue-book
value is on this vehicle?
Many thanks for all your replies!
Frank Gibbins.
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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 19:39:25 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Re: 88 MR2... Good Deal?
>Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 19:37:40
>To: fgibbins@sirius.uvic.ca (Frank Gibbins)
>From: Brett Fraser
>Subject: Re: 88 MR2... Good Deal?
>
>At 02:33 PM 11/15/95 PST, you wrote:
>>Hi there,
>>
>>I have the option to buy a 1988 Supercharged MR2. This car has 98k on it
>>and is lady driven, highway miles, summertime only. This super-clean car
>>has even got the original paint on the underside... and it's shiny. I live
>>in Victoria B.C. (Canada), so the price is in Canadaian dollars.... 7500.00.
>> This equates to about 5700 U.S. I don't really know the value of the car
>>but it sounds pretty good. What I really want to know is how good the
>>Supercharged models are? Are they still efficient, are they low
>>maintenance, are they dependable, any inherant problems? I have an 85 GT-S
>>with an 87 4A-GE that gets about 30 mpg at 125 H.P. But the MR2 sounds a
>>lot faster. The thing drives like it's on rails and it's really well
>>maintained. What do you guys think? Does anyone know what the blue-book
>>value is on this vehicle?
>>
>
>First off, let me say Hello to another Victoria'er .. didnt realize there was
>more than just me from here on the list ..
>
>2ndly .. GO FOR IT! .. Gods man .. that is an excellent deal from what Ive
seen of
>similar cars around here .. heck my roomie just payed 5500 for a somewhat
beatup
>87 w/leather (ripped), T-Roofs, bits of rust and 180,000 Km on it ... and
thats a
>normally aspirated .. heck from what Ive seen of the prices on the car you
mentioned
>Id expect to pay around 10-11k .. GO GO GO :)
>
>Brett Fraser
>83 Celica GT Coupe, 22RE w/K&N, Freeflow exhaust and still shiny new red
paint.
>(sob .. I dont wanna sell herrrr.. bawl)
>
>BTW .. Anyone have any idea what I could expect to pay for a convertible 85
Celica
>GT(S?) in good shape? I think Thatll be what I have to get for a car next.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 22:16:18 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: 88 MR-2... GOOD DEAL !!!
From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Nov 15 12:37:57 1995
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 14:33:34 PST
From: fgibbins@sirius.uvic.ca (Frank Gibbins)
Subject: 88 MR2... Good Deal?
>Hi there,
Aloher....
>I have the option to buy a 1988 Supercharged MR2.
>This car has 98k on it and is lady driven, highway miles, summertime only.
>This super-clean car has even got the original paint on the underside...
>and it's shiny.
Woah !!!
>I live in Victoria B.C. (Canada), so the price is in Canadaian dollars....
>7500.00. This equates to about 5700 U.S.
Woah !!!!!!
>I don't really know the value of the car but it sounds pretty good.
>What I really want to know is how good the Supercharged models are?
They are VERY Good, that car is still in demand for the Suprcharged reason.
>Are they still efficient, are they low maintenance, are they dependable,
>any inherant problems?
Um, someone else can answer this, however, i'm closely related to two of them
and no apparent problems other then both had a bad set of spark plug wires
so it wasn't delivering power.
>I have an 85 GT-S with an 87 4A-GE that gets about 30 mpg at 125 H.P.
So ya gonna sell those two ? =)
>But the MR2 sounds a lot faster.
Ya, only problem is two seats, however, its really not that bad !!
I can attest to when i had my 1987 for a while...
>The thing drives like it's on rails and it's really well maintained.
Sounds like ya hooked already, pick up a Porsche Performance Driving
book, as its the cloest mid-engined car out there and handle and driving
attitude is about the same......
>What do you guys think?
Heh Nah, don't buy it, junk deal...so how much does it cost to transport a
car to the states and then across the pacific to Hawaii ?? =)
Heh, i'd say go for it... =)
>Does anyone know what the blue-book value is on this vehicle?
Um, two years ago, i belive they were selling for about 10-12k for
good condition ones, heck, I would pay that price now for one =)
But definately for the price you paying for it, its like a dream
deal =)
>Many thanks for all your replies!
Heh, stop making me drool =P
I'm jealous =)
Got T-Top's ? Wait, don't tell me, i don't wanna know
>Frank Gibbins.
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 07:31:44 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Status of TRD order
Just wanted folks to know what the status of the TRD order is. I am
trying to go through one of my warehouse contacts in California to get
the TRD stuff ordered. So far, the total is over $5000, so I just can't
believe that they aren't going to work with me. (My portion of the order
is right about half of the total.) I will absolutely know something by
tonight, so if you're waiting on this info, expect something in about
12 hours. (Around 7:30pm EST, closing time for TRD.)
Chris
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From: JCORYELL@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 08:15:04 -0500
To: Toyota-Mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Hi:
Re your list greeting:
Your wrote....
>If you haven't done so already, send information describing yourself,
>your car, any modifications you have made, and any other comments to:
>
> To: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com
> Subject: me/mine/mods
>
>*Please* include at least the following information:
>
>Name :
>Location : (city/country where you live or work)
>Model : (e.g. 1986 Celica GTS -- please be as specific as possible)
>Engine : (e.g. 3S-GE -- please be specific, several versions may exist)
>Mods : (e.g. added turbo, modified suspension, etc.)
>email :
>
>This information is your only requirement for joining the toyota-mods
>list. Failure to do so will terminate your subscription. Thanks for
>your cooperation!
Name : Jeff Coryell
Location : Gates Mills, OH, USA
Model : 1994 Toyota Supra Turbo
Mods : Eibach springs, K&N Air Filter, TRUST exhaust, Carbon Fiber Dash,
presently adding Veiside body kit and other go-fast goodies
email : JCoryell@aol.com - ek550@cleveland.freenet.edu
Best Regards,
Jeff Coryell
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To: toyota-mods
From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus
Date: 16 Nov 95 11:53:45 EST
Subject: RE: 88 MR-2... GOOD DEAL !!!
>I live in Victoria B.C. (Canada), so the price is in Canadaian dollars....
>7500.00. This equates to about 5700 U.S.
Given the condition you describe, this is quite a good deal. Wholesale here in
the US ranges from 5700--6400 US dollars. It's not likely you could get an SC
car in the condition you describe for less money.
I happen to own one of these myself, as do some others on this list. It's an
'88, also. The MR2 platform is exactly right, and the SC car is a significant
development of the MR2, but I've been underwhelmed with my car. I won't bore
anyone with the details--unless they ask me to--especially since I'm not sure
whether some of the things I'm experiencing are due to maintainence somewhat
neglected by the previous owner, or whether they're due to design limitations.
Nothing major going on here, just a few minor'ish things that add up that I
haven't taken the time to investigate thoroughly.
But, generally, I think the SC MR2 is generally quite a notable car (did I
mention I own one?). Reliability isn't a big mystery given that it takes most
of it's mechanical bits from other Toyotas. There shouldn't be any service
peculiarities. The supercharger system seems bullet proof and should be very
long-lived. The '89 SC car got rear sway bars, which I think the MR2, any
first gen MR2, desperately needs. If you're planning suspension modifications,
then the stock setup is moot.
To respond antecdotally about fuel economy, since I don't measure it for any of
my cars, as soon as you see the supercharger light light, your fuel consumption
goes up quite a bit. Otherwise fuel economy should be similar to any other 4AG
Toyota.
- Steven
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 21:34:10 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Latest on TRD Order (11/16)
Well, I think I got someone's attention. I mailed the TM-TRD Order,
version 3, to one of my warehouse distributors in Cali, and he (who'd
be formerly hesitant to get involved) said he'd be willing to try to
get the stuff for us from TRD. The difference? The $5500 total order
size! Nothing talks like money, eh? That, btw, was $5500 sale price.
This would be at least a $11,000 order if it were retail!
That's the good news. The bad news is that they're running out of stock
fast. As a matter of fact, Clark Wallace told me that he'd been trying
to get one of those TRD cams that were on the list for over a year,
and kept being told that they were on backorder. Hmmmm. Makes you
wonder if they really had all of the stuff they had listed in the first
place. Jack told me that he called and found out that they were already
out of the OEM-spec 2xR timing chain kits. Not what I would have guessed
to be one of the fast movers, but I may be wrong.
Anyway, I am promised an answer by tomorrow. If I get one, the order
will be placed and locked in. Look at this list and please add/delete/
change it as necessary. If you haven't put anything on it yet, go
ahead and do it asap. Allen Chen, better figure out those "ors" you had,
or they are going to change into "ands"! (Don't worry, if something gets
ordered that nobody wanted, I'll just put it into stock.)
Here's the TRD Order, Version 3:
(Prices are retail, then sale)
Aly (abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu), 85 MR2:
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-AW110, $119.88, $65.49
Spring Set, Street, 48130-AW100, $269.95. $128.40
Lance (lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com), 91 MR2 Turbo:
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-SW200, $145.41, $76.01
John (jrredho@universe.digex.net), 85 4x4 Pickup, 22RE:
Header, EFI, 85-87, 128-524Y-O, $269.00 , $128.50
Adrienne (AdeM@WAIRC.GOVT.NZ), MR2:
Strut Set(85-86), 48500-AW100, $323.58, $150.52
Strut Set(87-89), 48500-AW100, $357.54, $165.66
Spring Set, Race, 48110-AW100, $184.43, $96.71
Spring Set, Street, 48130-AW100, $269.95. $128.40
Frederick (fmarsh@helix.nih.gov), 85 Celica GTS
Header, EFI, 82-85, 128-504Y-O, $269.00 , $126.50
Al (acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu), 85 MR2
Suspension Bushing Set, 48600-AW110, $119.88, $65.49
Brett (bfraser@coastnet.com), 83 Celica
Header, EFI, 82-85, 128-504Y-O, $269.00 , $126.50
Allen (allanc@p51.corp.sgi.com), AE 86? AE92? AE101?
90919-AE901 Spark Plug Wire Set, 4AG AE92
30301-AE002 Quick Shift, Corolla AE101
30301-AE902 Quick Shift, Corolla AE92
31200-AW001 Clutch Set, AE92, 1985-91/MR2 1986
31200-AQ111 Clutch Set, MR2 Supercharged
04492-0557M Brake Pad Set, Corolla 85-87 METAL
46600-AE860 Bushing Set, Corolla 85-87 GTS
43200-AE860 Negative Roll Block, Corolla GTS
S3607-AE051 Strut Brace, AE101
Leslie (leslie@Cadence.COM), Supra
48500-MA700 STRUT SET, $607.45, $308.26
Chris
3 ea, 11115-22R52, Head Gasket, 22R, 94mm, $8.24
2 ea, 11214-88270, Spark Tower Gasket, 18RG, $2.94
2 ea, 17173-88220, Exhaust Manifold Gasket, 3TC, $0.92
1 ea, 116-Z44-546, 44mm Carb Kit, 22R Celica, $495.00
1 ea, 116-Z60-54170, Manifold and Linkage Kit, 22R, $247.50
8 ea, 116-Z70-1044, Gasket Kit, 44mm, $5.50
2 ea, Z70-163, Jet Kit, 44mm, $24.20
1 ea, 128-502Y, Header, Celica, Non-Smog, $117.70
1 ea, 128-502Y-O, Header, Celica, EFI (82-85), $126.50
1 ea, 128-524Y-SO, Header, 4WD Truck, 81-84.5, EFI,$157.55
3 ea, 128-9542, Gasket, Header, 20/22R, $8.80
2 ea, 13102-6103XC, Piston w/ring (2/4), $47.30
2 ea, 13102-6104XC, Piston w/ring (1/3), $47.30
4 ea, 13012-3701XC, Ring Set, 22R, $10.98
2 ea, 132VRA-10016X, 18RG Camshaft, $118.80
(What is the grind on this???)
2 ea, 13520-4076S, 20/22R Timing Gear Set, $44.36
3 ea, 90919-RN451, 20/22R Spark Plug Wire Set, $16.17
1 ea, 31200-RA001, 18RG/20R/22R Clutch Set, $141.13
4 ea, 04490-SW200, Brake Line Set, MR2, 91-93, $67.30
1 ea, 48800-RA650, Sway Bar Kit, Celica, 76-85, $104.98
1 ea, 48800-RN101, Sway Bar Kit, 2WD Truck, $109.76
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 19:37:33 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: TRD Price List...
The 132VRA-10016X 18RG Camshaft $118
I have it as a 320 cam $156.43/205.95
I'll try and dig up more items
Any 3T Gear drives or T series Gear drive ?
Non-twin cam specs ?
They didn't sent me mylist so -shrug-
-Koji
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From: "Gregory Chan"
To: "john.limcangco"
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 08:51:43 EDT
Subject: RE: TRD Price List...
Cc: toyota-mods
Hi there,
The 320 cam has 320 degrees of duration i.e. the time in
degrees that the cam holds the valves open. There is another
specification which is supposed to go along with the duration
and is called the lift. The lift determines how far the cam lifts the
valve off its seat. The cam you are talking about is for full race
applications in my opinion.
GCHAN@compserv.senecac.on.ca
85 Corolla GTS
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 11:31:14 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fgibbins@sirius.uvic.ca (Frank Gibbins)
Subject: questions on 88 MR2 (supercharged)
Hi there,
I have the option to buy a 1988 Supercharged MR2. This car has 98k on it
and is lady driven, highway miles, summertime only. This super-clean car
has even got the original paint on the underside... and it's shiny. I live
in Victoria B.C. (Canada), so the price is in Canadaian dollars.... 7500.00.
This equates to about 5700 U.S. I don't really know the value of the car
but it sounds pretty good. What I really want to know is how good the
Supercharged models are? Are they still efficient, are they low
maintenance, are they dependable, any inherant problems? I have an 85 GT-S
with an 87 4A-GE that gets about 30 mpg at 125 H.P. But the MR2 sounds a
lot faster. The thing drives like it's on rails and it's really well
maintained. What do you guys think? Does anyone know what the blue-book
value is on this vehicle?
Many thanks for all your replies!
Frank Gibbins.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: "allen t "koji" kam"
Cc: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 17 Nov 95 15:42:10
Subject: RE: TRD Price List...
> The 132VRA-10016X 18RG Camshaft $118
>
> I have it as a 320 cam $156.43/205.95
>
> -Koji
Please help out a first time cam shopper.... what does a 320 cam mean? What
application is it for? How will it affect drivablility on the street? Why is
the sky blue? =)
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida, 18R-G
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 20:52:12 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: st95hv9t@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (BRIAN C. JARVIS)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Brian C. Jarvis
Location : Pottstown Pa Unites states of America
Model : 1985 Toyota MR2
Engine : 4AGE
Mods : Eibach springs, Tokico struts, K&N Airfilter,
Conversion to superchared MR2 planned for next summer
email : st95hv9t@post.drexel.edu
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From: Raikkonen Timo
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: me/mine/mods
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 20:58:00 PST
Name : Timo R{ikk|nen
Location : Helsinki/Finland
Model : 1988 FX-Gti 16-valves (AE92)
Engine : 4A-GE
Mods : Engine:
Selfmade Turboinstallation including exhaust header & other tubing.
4AG-Z pistons, metal head gasget, lightened flywheel, Microdynamics
fueller with one extra nozle (300 cc?), small & stupid intercooler and
STOCK CLUTCH! And last but not least broken gearbox!
Dynoed in Stage I trim 170 hp with 0.5 bar of boost and no intercooler.
Now Stage II trim 0.8 bar and intercooler, a pit more (not dynoed).
Stage III: looking for good header or will made new one, modified
turbo ex. T3/T4 Garret, intercooler as big as bossiple - maybe build
one of SISU truck intercooler (dream on), CLUTCH!, SLD - slipdif-
ferential, programmaple fuel injection...
Body:
Snow white, lowered 4 cm with G&M-springs, Bilstein HD shocks, 15"
alloy wheels (Fondmetal HB4000) and 195/50-15 Pirelli.
email : traikkonen@c2000.fi
PS. It's almost christmas and I love to have pressents! If u have some spare
slipdifferentials, Hi-perf clutches, Hi-perf anti-sway bars, etc. laying in
your
corners or carage remmember me! ;-)~
Seriously, I'm interested those parts. If anyone knows good deals, please
let
me know. Thanks!
PPS: My "snow white" is now really snow white - it has been snowing all day
and night. =-)
Timo
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Date: Sat, 18 Nov 95 18:32:09 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fgibbins@sirius.uvic.ca (Frank Gibbins)
Subject: questions on 88 MR2 (supercharged)
Hi there,
I have the option to buy a 1988 Supercharged MR2. This car has 98k on it
and is lady driven, highway miles, summertime only. This super-clean car
has even got the original paint on the underside... and it's shiny. I live
in Victoria B.C. (Canada), so the price is in Canadaian dollars.... 7500.00.
This equates to about 5700 U.S. I don't really know the value of the car
but it sounds pretty good. What I really want to know is how good the
Supercharged models are? Are they still efficient, are they low
maintenance, are they dependable, any inherant problems? I have an 85 GT-S
with an 87 4A-GE that gets about 30 mpg at 125 H.P. But the MR2 sounds a
lot faster. The thing drives like it's on rails and it's really well
maintained. What do you guys think? Does anyone know what the blue-book
value is on this vehicle?
Many thanks for all your replies!
Frank Gibbins.
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Dear Allen, Please respond soon
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 1995 21:19:33 -0500 (EST)
Forwarded message:
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 00:56:58 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Aly's Projected Mods
-Fowarded by koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu-
-Fix Response address -
From abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu Tue Nov 14 15:24:41 1995
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: Aly's Projected Mods
To: koji@mael.soest.hawaii.edu (Allen T "Koji" Kam)
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 13:58:54 -0500 (EST)
Allan,
You answered my projected upgrades about a week ago, and I just
wanted to discuss each one a little more. I commented on your answers one
at a time, please do the same also, it's very helpful that way.
> First Off, performance is for all around, I take it, Spirited Street
> Since you have emissions in Cali, perhaps messing around with the air
> flow meter would help a bit espically when ya get farther down the list...
Your right in your assumption, I do occaisional autocrossing, but mainly
I just want the car to be more satisfying on the street.
Oh by the way, I'm in lower New York.
When you
say "mess around with the air flow meter" do you mean just cracking the
seal and messing with the dial? Or some other kind of tuning?
Besides, I'm told turning it one way will add more low end, but you'll
lose some top end, and vice versa.
> >> TRD Header 5-8 130
>
> Which TRD Header ? The Doug Thorley one ? or the TRD Custom one ?
I didn't know there were two. The TRD catalog only lists one.
What's the difference between the two, and are they both a TRI-Y
design? I read in the Toyota Performance Handbook that the
Tri-Y design will help low end performance and make the most
difference compared to a 4 into 1. Chris at TRD told me that
the TRD header is a TRI-Y.
> >> HKS or Trust Exhaust 6-10 138
>
> I'd say go with the HKS, the Trust on my 2 friends car all blew out all
> the fiber within 4 months (this is in Hawaii and not many open roads)
> Plus the MR-2 needs a little backpressure, too free the exhaust is bad
> we confirmed that, and the price for the Trust -ouch- maybe the Japan
> "racing" Trust exhaust, because the American Trust "racing" is the Japan
> "street" exhaust -shrug-
Just to clarify, are you saying that the HKS offers more back pressure?
Will this back pressure give the car better low end power?
The conclusion I have come to from what you are saying and from what
Chris Myer said is that the Trust may add more HP, but the HKS will
add more torque, which is what will be felt. Majority say HKS, but Ultima
Performance in Long Island (they advertise in Turbo Magazine) insist that
the Trust performs better.
And is there ANY other muffler out there that costs less?
I want modifications which will make a difference in acceleration
feel. I want more pull. I am still not convinced that I will feel
much difference by just changing the muffler, and these mufflers
cost so much, they just don't seem worth it if they aren't going to
make a noticeable difference in how the car feels during
acceleration. I do understand though that people (HKS, mainly) say that the
stock muffler is the most restrictive piece on a car.
I plan on doing the Air Filter first, then the Ignition Amp,
then the Header, and then the Exhaust. This seems like the most
cost effective way for the most bang for the buck.
What I am wondering is, after the first three mods, will changing the
muffler really add ANY MORE noticeable difference in addition to the first
three mods?
The reason I am leaving the muffler for last (most people say do it first)
is (1) because I just put on a new stock muffler and I want to get my
money's worth out of it, (2) the price of these mufflers, and (3) 2 people who
have changed the muffler only (without any other mods) say that they feel no
difference, and that you won't feel any difference without some air intake
work (air filter). ie, you can't take more out if you don't put more in.
What do you think about this?
> >> HKS Clutch (or similar quality)
What other clutches are available? I'm looking for something that's
going to grab better than the stock '85 clutch, it slips too much.
But also I would like to see if I can get a better price than that
of an HKS/Centerforce.
>
> >> Then when that's done:
> >> HKS Camshafts and Gears 8-10 146
>
> I would get the cam timing gears as one of your first mods, get the
> adjustables, if not the non "adjustables" are about $80
Do you mean getting the timing gears without the HKS camshafts?
What will this do for the motor? And if I am going to pay for the
labor of changing the cam gears, shouldn't I change the camshafts
anyway?
> >> Then if there's some money around:
> >> HKS Stroker Kit 32 180
>
> Check the availibility of this kit...
Is HKS considering discontinuing it?
> My impression so far, is that TRD USA is going to be bought out
> by perhaps Greddy or someone, and TRD Japan will be the only
> "true" source for TRD parts.
Does this mean that I should buy a TRD Tri-Y header as soon as possible?
Your input is very appreciated.
Thank you,
Aly
'85 MR2, all options
(Yes, even the black spoiler)
Looking for some more power,
the best handling,
and the most cost effective mods.
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 07:06:18 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Blank Cams
Has anyone ever heard of any place that sells blank cams? I have had
plenty of folks asking me about cams for the 4AG lately, and I know I could
have some made quite inexpensively if I only had a source for them. I
have places where I can get stock-grind cams and could then have them
reground, but then I have to worry about shims, etc.
(BTW, HKS get's $500 for the set of 4AG cams, plus you have to buy the
$163 adjustable timing gears. GACK!)
Chris
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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 02:50:26 -1000
From: Allen T "Koji" Kam
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Blank Cams
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Mon Nov 20 02:47:23 1995
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 07:06:18 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Blank Cams
>Has anyone ever heard of any place that sells blank cams? I have had
>plenty of folks asking me about cams for the 4AG lately, and I know I could
>have some made quite inexpensively if I only had a source for them. I
>have places where I can get stock-grind cams and could then have them
>reground, but then I have to worry about shims, etc.
Supposedly Isky sells blank cams also... or Downey used to.
>(BTW, HKS get's $500 for the set of 4AG cams, plus you have to buy the
>$163 adjustable timing gears. GACK!)
Heh, timing gears went up ? hmmm... crud, that was going to be my christmas
present to myself =)
>Chris
-Koji
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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 95 10:58:57 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Strut Tops
Guys,
Well Chris tells me you cant get those AE86 strut tops any more. I remember
first seeing them in the TPH. We started making them in Australia for other
cars but not the AE86, I can have them specially made in volume but its
expensive. Is this a problem in other parts of the world? We used to use
camber pins or longer lower arms but it alters the track and its not legal o
the road any more. The strut tops are great because you can change them day
to day. My car is down 4cms and you dont seem to get bump or roll steer badly
camber is -1.25, I think it needs about 3/4 of a degree more.
Has anyone else got any ideas?
Bruce Connelly
(Try AUIBMBMC@IBMMAIL.COM)
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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 16:09:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Pictures of Toyota engines
To: Matti Kalalahti
Cc: "mr2-interest@validgh.com" ,
Matti,
I have sent you the JPEG files listed below, which are pictures of Toyota
engines. The file name describes the engine. The last file is a picture of
the book cover that the engine pictures are from. It is called "Neko
Historic Car Books 5, Toyota Twincam," published by Neko Publishing Co. I
think Classic Motorbooks carries it.
If anyone wants a copy of these files, send me email. .BMP or .GIF versions
also available (large). Hopefully these will appear on Matti's homepage in
the near future.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
18rg.jpg
18rgu.jpg
18rgeu.jpg
2tg.jpg
2tgeu.jpg
2tgeu_2.jpg
3tgteu.jpg
3tgteu_2.jpg
4tgteu.jpg
4agelu.jpg
4agzelu.jpg
1ggeu.jpg
1ggzeu.jpg
1ggteu.jpg
1ggteu_2.jpg
toy_tc.jpg
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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 16:32:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Jimmy Hu
To: Toyota-Mods
Subject: About my self
Name: Jimmy Hu
Location: Tustin, California
Model: 1994 Supra Twin Turbo
Engine: 2JZ-GTE
Mods: GReddy BL exhaust w/ 130mm tip, Custom-made racing stainless
downpipe, RS Akimoto Funnel Ram air filtration system, GReddy Type-S
Blow off valve, GReddy Turbo Timer.
Email: GReddy@ea.oac.uci.edu
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Date: 21 Nov 1995 17:00:55 U
From: "Clark Wallace"
Subject: Re: Blank Cams
To: "Christopher Myer" ,
RE>Blank Cams 11/21/95
Chris, I seem to recall Engle in Santa Monica had blanks (I think the #'s in
the
t-mods suppliers guide). Interesting tidbit: there are only three suppliers
of
raw cams in the US. Their names, at the moment, escape me.
Later, Clark
--------------------------------------
From: Christopher Myer
Has anyone ever heard of any place that sells blank cams? I have had
plenty of folks asking me about cams for the 4AG lately, and I know I could
have some made quite inexpensively if I only had a source for them. I
have places where I can get stock-grind cams and could then have them
reground, but then I have to worry about shims, etc.
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 10:26:31 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Cams
Guy's,
Cant you just use a standard CAM and have it welded and ground? We have done
this for years with 2TG's. No shim change required if you have the original
and measure the base circle. Its a good idea to have an original and them
set the machines to copy them. In Australia you can have this done but its
dearer than HKS! In the USA it must be cheaper (everythings cheaper in the USA)
Bruce Connelly
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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 10:31:36 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Gears
Oh yes...as for the gears if you have ONE original TRD adjustable and a power
drill its a free modification. Just place one over the other and drill the
new holes. For the HKS grids you will not need anything better than this, you
will get things to + or - 2 degrees.
Bruce Connelly
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 16:22:22 PST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Brett Fraser
Subject: Fuel Rich adj. from the T.P Handbook...
Hooookay .. So I simply couldnt handle it anymore ..I went and reinsured my
car yesterday .. being as today was my day off I started doing some
of the
tweaks in the Toyota Performance Handbook ie: blocking the EGR valve for quicker
throttle response etc.. now when it came to the one where I add a 2k
1.25Watt Potentiometer in the water temp sensor line I have a problem.
First one is that Nowhere in my town can I find a 2k 1.25w linear resistor
.. everyone I talked to said they simply didnt exist .. So i had to settle
for a 2.5k 2w one .. I got home, whipped
out the haynes manual and found that the Green w/white stripe wire is the
proper one
at the Computer, confirmed that with a Ohmmeter and clipped it .. put my 2.5
k pot in .. and voilia. Duck all. I can crank that baby back and forth
like mad and still nothing happens .. now ... do I have to wait for the car
to warm up or something? (I had been driving for about 1 hr 30 mins prev to
this tho...) ..
Any ideas? .. I just cant (it would appear) get it to work..
(blocking the EGR and one of the other little things (ive forgotten what its
called.. tweaking the airflow meter .. thast right) did increase throttle
response tho ..
Brett
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 21:12:39 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Fuel Rich adj. from the T.P Handbook...
Keep in mind that adjusting the air/fuel mixture is only going to have
a very small difference. I kind of doubt that you would feel it--I never
did. You can see it, however. When you're on a long drive, turn the
resistor all the way one way and watch the temperature. Let it stabilize
for several miles. Now turn it all the way the other way. The temperature
should change. The leaner mixture will run hotter. This is where you
really need one of those air/fuel meters. I've never tried this, but
you should be able to do this with a voltmeter. The output from a
typical O2 sensor will run from 0.1 to 1.0 volts as the air/fuel ratio
runs from about 19:1 to 11:1. Unfortunately, it is not even close to
being linear. It is nearly flat at 1.0 volt from 11 to about 14.5:1,
then it drops to 0.1 volt at about 15:1 and stays flat as the ratio
becomes leaner. Stochiometric is 14.7:1, or roughly right in the
middle of that drop from 1.0 to 0.1 volt, say about .5 volts. Best
fuel economy is supposedly found at about 15.5:1, and best power at
12.5:1.
Try this out for us, Brett, and let us know what you find. Remember
that it is important to do the testing under normal load/speed conditions.
Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 21:42:19 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Sorry I've been so quiet...
I know that everyone is waiting with baited breath about this whole TRD
deal. I have been fighting this issue daily, and I thought I'd know
something tonight, but my fax machine has been quiet. I am waiting for
a fax of exactly what TRD has left in stock, at which time I'll be
able place our orders. I was promised the info today, but I guess
I'll have to be patient and wait until tomorrow.
Sorry this has been such a problem. The whole deal is just about to
kill me. I hate it when a plan comes together so slowly. I am a
"do it now" kind of person, and the only thing I hate worse than having
to wait is having others wait on me.
Happy Thanksgiving (US Holiday, November 23d this year. We eat lots of
food (turkey et al) and watch football on TV, for those who've not had the
opportunity to experience it. My favorite holiday, actually.)
Chris
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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 15:05:02 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Fuel Mixtures
Guy,s
Chris is correct the resistor doesnt really make that much difference.
Australian Cars have an O2 and MAP sensor (4AG), you cant get a 2K here so
I used 5K. Even with 272/272 cams the factor ECU will work OK without a
resistor thanks to the O2. When the resistor is fitted I only noticed a
difference around when using a muffler with no baffles at around +1K. It
makes things rich and idle gets rougher and lower. Above 1K the engine
bogs down between changes. Voltage from the O2 sensor went all over the
place, I should have used a dial guage and not digital. Next week I will fit
some 3SGE injectors (250CC) and see what happens. I short if you have a 4AG
with O2 the resistor doesnt really do much.
Bruce
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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 21:19:40 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: racerx@hannigan.com (Edward Hannigan)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Ed Hannigan
San Diego, Ca.
1985 MR2
4AGE normally aspirated
mods - tires only at this point - Yokohama AVS 205/60/14 (I just bought the car)
reach me at racerx@hannigan.com
Ed Hannigan
Hannigan and Associates
racerx@hannigan.com
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Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 01:09:22 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Pat Hager
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name: Pat Hager
Location: Boulder Creek, California, U.S.A
Model: 1983 Tercel DX Four Door
Engine: 3A-C
Mods: Driveline stock for now, tinted windows, fog lights, Grant
steering wheel.
email: tilly83@cruzio.com
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From: Raikkonen Timo
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: 2T->3T highperf tuning?
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 95 15:57:00 PST
Hello u wizards!
Anyone who knows 3T-engine good!
My friend is building a tuned 3T engine from 2T to KE-25
chassis. He would like to know any tips to get the engine
as good as possible for daily use - power & torque.
No problem to get the engine in one piece, but how to get
maximum torgue and a lots of horsepowers. Using stock
3T or OEM pistons and stock-cams (he'll get them
regrounded). Going to ground the heads by himself - only
slightly modifications. Lightened flywheel...
Questions:
#1 What are the best cam figures for best torgue and
what for best power - if grounded from stock cams. Any
aftermarket cams and prices?
#2 About head: what valves should be used - are stocks
enough? How about grounding few millimeters from the
heads surface to get figher compression?
#3 What kind of carpuretors works best? What jets etc.?
#4 How about stock exhaust manifold - how far is it good?
Is '82 years 2TG-E engines ex-manifold better?
#5 Has anybody ever used VW's pistons (Mahle, Wiseco etc.)
in such engine/combination (see PS underneath).
Wich model piston u used (pore? measurement from top of
the piston to pistons wrist?) and did u ground the holes for
valves?
Thanks for any input!
-Timo-
PS. For Q5#:
I used once some VW pistons (90.5 mm - no groundinf) for a
turbocharged 2TG-EU (3T connection rods) -> ca. 7.2
compression and over 2 liters engine capacity.
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From: Colin Grant
To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'"
Subject: Struts and springs
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 21:26:43 -0500
I'm looking to replace the stock struts and springs on my 87 Celica GTS. =
Can anyone give me some recomendations, as i have no idea what to look =
at or look for. All i want them for is street use. Thanks
Colin
Burlington, Ontario
Canada,
cgrant@enterprise.ca
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Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 21:47:31 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Vernon Natewa
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Vernon Natewa
Location : Albuquerque, New Mexico USA
Model : 1993 MR2 Turbo, Steel Mist Grey
Engine : 3S-GTE
Mods : K&N Filtercharger, Restrictor to increase boost to 15 psi,
Edelbrock RPM Series stainless steel muffler
16x7 & 16x8 ROH Reflex wheels, 205/45-16 (front) 225/45-16
(rear), Dunlop Sport 8000, TRD progressive rate springs, Energy
Suspensions (stabilizer: strut rod: control arm) bushings,
middle size crash bolts.
1994 factory body colored front air dam and rear extensions.
Sony CDX-U8000 CD receiver, MB Quart 215.02 CX component
speakers, Audio Control 2XS crossover, Audio Control EQL
equalizer, PPI 2075AM amplifier. I still haven't decided on a
subwoofer/s yet.
email : vernonn@indirect.com
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 04:22:08 -1000
From: Allen T Koji Kam
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Koji's Absence Again...
-grumble-
I'm disgruntled with this Micron Pentium -grumble-
My experience so far, don't use um, lost massive data
including email, just got it back running and 23% of my data uncorrupted
oh grand...
Lost some of the Toyota-Mod's stuff (not like there was much) but i'll be
posting it over the weekend again, and wrapping it up.
Sorry for the delay...
Geee... this old Videotext Vt-100 still works.. >=)
Go figure !!
-Allen T "Koji" Kam
Videotext VT-100 @ 28.8 bps Live, via the Internet !
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Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 15:40:08 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Check out who I just subscrib*d...
subscrib* toyota-mods meier@imageman.com Christopher Meier
Well, it could be worse. I used to work just down the hall from a
Chris Myers (note the 's'). That was kinda confusing. Then he had
a heart attack and died. In a small town like Melbourne, that will
lead to some really shocked looks when you walk in the door after
a week long vacation concurrent with the passing of the deceased!
Kinda felt like John Wayne in that movie where everybody says "I thought
you were dead!"
(Was it Mark Twain who wrote something like "the stories of my death
have been greatly exaggerated!")
Chris _Myer_
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com
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Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 19:57:04 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Nitro Propane
Anybody out there ever use or hear of using Nitropropane as a gasoline
additive? I just read Circle Track's article about this stuff and it
looked pretty good. It acts as a sort of chemical supercharger, since
one of the byproducts of the combustion process is oxygen. Adding 10%
of Nitropropane to 92 octane pump gas resulted in a 20hp/9ftlb power/
torque increase to a 443hp small block Chevy.
Down sides are reasonable. You _MUST_ open the jets up, since the
overall mixture will be leaner in the combustion chamber and _WILL_
detonate if you don't do this. Also, it changes the specific gravity
of your fuel, so it can be detected if you run in a racing body that
pulls fuel samples for testing. Also, real pricey, $35-$40 per gallon,
delivered to your door (I'm sure that some of our creative membership
will be able to clue us in on cheaper sources.)
There is also a product called "Nitro Power Additive" marketed by
Klotz that is half Nitropropane and half anti-detonates, such as
Toluene. A note said that 32 oz of this stuff in 5 gallons of race
fuel was worth 10 rear-wheel hp on a 2.0l Pinto Pony Stock car. They
increased jetting by only 4 sizes. The note isn't clear if this 10hp
increase/4 jet change was over pump fuel or race fuel alone.
Chris
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Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 20:10:00 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Starting the rebuild
Well, the 18RG rebuild is on the back burner while I start the 2xR rebuild
for the 82 4x4 pickup. The stock motor is a 22R, stock Aisan carb,
stock exhaust, Jacob's Ignition System. The motor I'm rebuilding is the
one out of the race car--20R block & head. When finished it will be
bored to 94mm, 10.5:1 pistons, ported head, header, Dual Weber Sidedrafts,
probably stick with the stock Jacob's Ignition, probably upgrade the
distributor to the Mallory Unilite that LC Engineering raves about,
despite my supplier's warnings of premature failure.
I'll try to post a few notes about my progress as I go along, as I always
exhort everyone else to do with their projects. So far, I've just gotten
things ready to proceed:
-Removed the W50 Transmission
-Removed all of the brackets, intake/exhaust
-Removed/tossed the clutch (it was a goner!)
-Removed/tossed the fan & fan clutch (goner 2--into the wall at 45mph!)
-Removed the flywheel.
-Bolted the engine to the engine stand.
A couple of notes if anyone cares. Buy some ziplock bags and bag/label
every group of bolts that you pull. I spent a couple of hours the last
two Saturday's helping a friend put a SB Chevy motor into his 67 Camaro.
What a nightmare. Digging through boxes and scrap bins to try and find
the bolts/brackets you need. AARRGGHH! Also, if you are running a
2xR in your Celica, take that thing out and have about 15 lbs of steel
turned off of that dude at your favorite machine shop and get some
cheap-cheap hp! Ok, 15 lbs may be a little extreme, but that thing looks
like a flywheel for a diesel truck! You don't need that much inertia
to move your Celica off the line. Truck owners, you can do the same
thing, but you might not want to if low rpm performance/4WD are big
issues for you.
This coming week I pull the motor apart and begin to assess the damage.
So far, everything looks good. Keep in mind that the motor had 120K
miles on it when I _started_ racing it two years earlier, and outlived
two bodies! I think I changed the oil twice (..or was it once...)
Toyota's...You can't kill 'em!
Chris
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 22:44:35 -0600
From: "Christopher M. Meier"
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: thank you...
I'll take that as a "welcome" :-)
Christopher M. Meier
ps. About 7 years ago, a collecter called, and was happy when
I answered to "Chris Meier", at least until I insisted I wasn't
*the* Chris Meier he was looking for. I told him to try the
one in a neighboring suburb... never heard back.
pps. Is there a alt.Chris_Me*r newsgroup or mailing list? ;-)
_____
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
Check out who I just subscrib*d...
subscrib* toyota-mods meier@imageman.com Christopher Meier
Well, it could be worse. I used to work just down the hall from a
Chris Myers (note the 's'). That was kinda confusing. Then he had
a heart attack and died. In a small town like Melbourne, that will
lead to some really shocked looks when you walk in the door after
a week long vacation concurrent with the passing of the deceased!
Kinda felt like John Wayne in that movie where everybody says "I thought
you were dead!"
(Was it Mark Twain who wrote something like "the stories of my death
have been greatly exaggerated!")
Chris _Myer_
--
Christopher P. Myer
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Gary Hong
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 13:32:03 PST
From: Christopher Myer
>Check out who I just subscrib*d...
>
>subscrib* toyota-mods meier@imageman.com Christopher Meier
>
>Well, it could be worse. I used to work just down the hall from a
>Chris Myers (note the 's'). That was kinda confusing. Then he had
>a heart attack and died. In a small town like Melbourne, that will
Did you have anything to do with his death? I guess we just can't have
to Chris Myer*, can we? :)
Gary
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 22:04:23 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Big Update on TRD Order
Well, thanks to the efforts of our own Allan "Botoboy" Chen, it looks
like we're going to have some sort of a TRD order after all. I compiled
all of the requests we put together and phoned them over to him, (along
with my credit card number--ouch!) and he placed the order. Allen will
be calling tomorrow morning (Tuesday) to confirm everything, but here is
what we are looking at so far:
TRD Order: Req Avail
Aly (abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu), 85 MR2:
48600-AW110 Suspension Bushing Set 1 1
48130-AW100 Spring Set, Street 1 1
Lance (lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com), 91 MR2 Turbo:
48600-SW200 Suspension Bushing Set 1 1
(Oh, yeah, I already sent you some...I'll put these into stock!)
John (jrredho@universe.digex.net), 85 4x4 Pickup, 22RE:
128-524Y-O Header, EFI, 85-87 1 0
(Sorry, dude!)
Adrienne (AdeM@WAIRC.GOVT.NZ), MR2:
48500-AW100 Strut Set(87-89) 1 1
48110-AW100 Spring Set, Race 1 1
48130-AW100 Spring Set, Street 1 1
Frederick (fmarsh@helix.nih.gov), 85 Celica GTS
128-504Y-O Header, EFI, 82-85 1 0
(Sorry, dude!)
Al (acram@dsurgery.surgery.uiowa.edu), 85 MR2
48600-AW110 Suspension Bushing Set 1 1
Brett (bfraser@coastnet.com), 83 Celica
128-504Y-O Header, EFI, 82-85 1 0
(Sorry, dude!)
Allen (allanc@p51.corp.sgi.com) AE92
90919-AE901 Spark Plug Wire Set, 4AG AE92 1 1
30301-AE902 Quick Shift, Corolla AE92 1 1
31200-AW001 Clutch Set, AE92, 1985-91/MR2 1986 1 1
04492-0557M Brake Pad Set, Corolla 85-87 METAL 1 0
46600-AE860 Bushing Set, Corolla 85-87 GTS 2 2
43200-AE860 Negative Roll Block, Corolla GTS 4 4
Leslie (leslie@Cadence.COM), Supra
48500-MA700 STRUT SET 1 1
Geoff (geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca), MR2 Turbo
12300-SW200 Eng. Insulator Set, MR2 91- (SW20) 1 1
04490-SW200 Brake Line Set, MR2 1991-93 1 1
48609-SW251 Support, Front Suspension SW20 1 1
48750-SW251 Support, Rear Suspension SW20 1 1
31200-SW200 Clutch Set, 3SGE, 5SFE 1 0
Mark (msink@imonics.com), 87 MR2
90919-AEA51 Spark Plug Wire Set, 4AG MR2 1 0
(Actually Mark, they have these, but not on sale. Yes, I know
they're on the list.....)
Thomas (twahjudi@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu) 89 MR2 Supercharged
48500-AW100 Strut Set(87-89) 1 1
48130-AW100 Spring Set, Street 1 1
Timo (TRaikkonen@c2000.fi):
30301-AE902 Quick Shift, Corolla AE92 1 1
James (di88429@goodguy.goodnet.com):
11115-88221 head gasket, 2TG std dia=85mm 1 0
17173-88220 exhaust manifold gasket, 2TG 1 0
17177-88222 2TG intake gasket 1 0
Z70-163 jet kit for 44 mikuni 1 0
90919-TA651 spark plug wire set, 2TG 1 0
(Sorry, dude!)
Chris
11115-22R52, Head Gasket, 22R, 94mm 3 0
11214-88270, Spark Tower Gasket, 18RG 2 0
17173-88220, Exhaust Manifold Gasket, 3TC 2 0
116-Z44-546, 44mm Carb Kit, 22R Celica 1 0
116-Z60-54170, Manifold and Linkage Kit, 22R 1 0
116-Z70-1044, Gasket Kit, 44mm 8 0
Z70-163, Jet Kit, 44mm 2 0
128-502Y, Header, Celica, Non-Smog 1 0
128-502Y-O, Header, Celica, EFI (82-85) 1 0
128-524Y-SO, Header, 4WD Truck, 81-84.5, EFI 1 0
128-9542, Gasket, Header, 20/22R 3 3
13102-6103XC, Piston w/ring (2/4) 2 0
13102-6104XC, Piston w/ring (1/3) 2 0
13012-3701XC, Ring Set, 22R 4 4
132VRA-10016X, 18RG Camshaft 2 0
13520-4076S, 20/22R Timing Gear Set 2 0
90919-RN451, 20/22R Spark Plug Wire Set 3 3
31200-RA001, 18RG/20R/22R Clutch Set 1 1
04490-SW200, Brake Line Set, MR2, 91-93 4 0
48800-RA650, Sway Bar Kit, Celica, 76-85 1 0
As you already figured out, Req is what was requested, Avail is what they
had in stock (and what was ordered.) You can also see that James and I
came up the shortest. I guess somebody decided they're going to corner
the market on 2TG stuff, James!
The order has been placed, but it isn't a done deal until tomorrow
morning when Allan calls for final confirmation. If anyone sees anything
on the list that is still available that they want, you might be able to
email Allen this evening and have him add it to the order.
(allanc@corp.sgi.com)
For those that ordered stuff, you need to do two things to get it.
Email Allan with your address, and fax me a photocopy of your Credit
Card and Driver's License at (407) 725-3159. Make sure you handwrite
the card number and expiration date on the photocopy as it is usually
unintelligible after it is faxed. If anyone decides they don't want
what they ordered, I'll be happy to put it into stock and sell it for
big bucks later.
Ok, what did I forget?
Chris
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: "Allan Chen"
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 15:13:36 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, tm-wob@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Last Chance to Order...
Folks,
This is the last call... they will be bundling the packages from there.
So if you need to order and you are in the states leave me a message at work
at 1-800/488-1414 X35211.
Laters,
Allan
--
*******************************************************************************
Allan Chen A peak disturbs the horizon. The wave builds as it
Silicon Graphics Inc. slowly crumbles. A lone man races the crest hoping
Mountain View, CA for the moment where wave, board, and rider becomes
allanc@sgi.com one... Only a surfer knows the feeling.
*******************************************************************************
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: SC Exhaust on a NA
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 10:53:50 -0500 (EST)
Greetings to all,
Hope everyone's Thanksgiving went well.
Okay, it says on the MR2 Archive FAQ that fitting the exhaust
(muffler) from an '89 SuperCharged MR2 on a Normally Aspirated MR2 like my
'85 may benefit the car. It says that," the lower restriction may benefit
overall power".
Has anyone done this? Or know anyone who's done this (put an SC
exhaust on a NA)? If it gives ANY noticeable increase in power without
hurting any stock performance, I am thinking that it's worth it. If it
even approaches the performance of the HKS or Trust mufflers, it's worth it
because it costs 300 dollars LESS than these mufflers! I know that these
companies claim to have the best power increase suitable to the 4AGE motor,
but this is worth looking into. I can pick up an '89 SC muffler from the
back of autoweek for $150, chrome tips included. But I am also a little
skeptical as to whether the SC muffler is suitable for the NA power curve.
In other words, I don't want it to hurt performance.
I am also planning to put the TRD Header (the NA one) on with this
muffler if it's a good combination.
Thank you,
Aly, '85 MR2, red with all options
Looking for a little more power,
the best handling,
the most cost effective mods.
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: KipAnderso@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 12:19:36 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: New address
Old e-mail address: Casey 7970@aol.com
New e-mail address: KipAnderso@aol.com
For now I can be reached at either, but I will be checking the old address
less frequently.
Kip Anderson
91 MR2 Turbo, #833, Tokico Illuminas, 15" HREs, and a boost upgrade in the
works.
KipAnderso@aol.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Revtest, WWW
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 03:44:58 +0200 (EET)
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Time to once again advertise the FREE (as in no money) road dyno - Revtest.
http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124775/prog.html
It should now work even better on all Amigas, not just Tero's own ;)
Also, it should work correctly with any number of cylinders.
8000rpm is still the maximum though.
Also, check out my Carina page
http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/vehicles/MyCarina.html
which (like many other pages) I've updated slightly, including
some pictures obtained using RevPro (which is the more versatile
version of Revtest, available free for those who send Tero a datafile
of their cars. These results will appear at his WWW pages.
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * 3T-GTEU * 195+-15hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 22:52:31 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: 2xR Rebuild
Thought I'd make another installment on the rebuild progress. Clark
asked about how I separated the engine and tranny outside of the car.
This was a little bit tricky, since I was alone at the time. I had the
entire engine/tranny combo hanging from the engine lift together, just
as I had pulled it out of the car. The trick of lifting something like
this is balancing it. I used two short pieces of chain and put a lift
hook on the RF and LR of the head (normal location, I think.) Since the
rear hook is much closer to the center of the configuration, it lifts
most of the weight. Fortunately the rear hook is opposite the center
of gravity of the combo, so the front hook holds balance of the weight.
I had already removed the starter (remember about 3 months ago when I
mentioned replacing the starter on the truck? Now you know where I got
it!) so I had only the bolts holding the tranny to the engine, including
those that hold the clutch slave cylinder in place. I took all of these
out. I then lowered the engine all the way to the bottom, and balanced
it on two 2x4's, each placed on edge across the lower supports of the
engine lift. This left the tranny off the ground. I then carefully
stradled the tranny and lifted/wiggled it backwards until the spindle
came out of the clutch. At this point you're free. I'm not sure what
a W50 weighs, I'd say in the 80-100 lb ballpark. You can handle it if
you're very careful and don't have any back problems.
Ok, more up to date. I pulled the oil pan, removed the valve cover, and
prepared to remove the head. You have to remove the timing chain bolt
(Single 17mm (?) in the front of the cam) take off the distributor drive
gear, then the top timing gear. Note: If you're just going to remove
and replace the head, such as for a valve job, you are very wise to
mark the entire setup so that you won't have to retime everything when
you put it back. Since I'm replacing everything (timing chain included)
and doing a complete rebuild, I didn't worry about it. Now, the one
bit of trivia you can pickup here that will make you look like a real
2xR guru is what the call the timing chain cover bolt. I've mentioned
this thing a long time ago. It is a little 10mm bolt that lies in a
pool of oil, invisible, at the front of the head, going straight down
into the block. It is considered wise to remove this rather than
break it off when you've pulled the head bolts out and can't figure out
why it is requiring a crow bar to remove the head. The bolt in mine
is broken, but I assure you that was BC (before Chris). I'll tap and
drill that baby before this job is completed.
After you've got the timing chain loosened and removed that hidden bolt,
there are the 10 17mm head bolts. ORDER OF REMOVAL IS CRITICAL. Screw
this up and you may be tossing the head into the trash can. Basically,
it is a cross-wise circular pattern, much as you use when tightening
the lugs on your wheels, starting from the outside and going to the
inside. Just follow the order that is printed in your _factory_repair_
_manual_, which is at your side through the entire process. Here is
an idea that I'm going to implement: I'm going to stamp a number into
each bolt corresponding to the order of removal. Overkill I'm sure,
but I'm sorta goofy that way. Anyway, head bolts out, lift the valve
train off (you can store this in the inverted valve cover), and the
head _should_ lift off fairly easily. Maybe a few light taps with the
rubber mallet. If you've got to take a crowbar to it, you may have a
problem. I've had to get ugly with a few, but usually it isn't
necessary.
Well, that's where I'm at. A note about the condition of the engine.
Keep in mind that this engine was bought with the car it came in (a
78 Celica) for $300 with 120 K miles on it. The car was raced for
2 years with nothing more than a valve job and a light surfacing of
the head deck early in that period. After I installed the Nissan
double valve springs (which worked wonderfully!), it was pushed to
almost 6000 rpm during these races (usually around 5800). The
thing looks beautiful. Connecting rod side clearances, spec'd at
.3mm maximum, were barely out of spec, all evenly worn to roughly
.35mm. Block bottom end is strikingly clean. My point? Somebody
please find me a small block Chevy/Ford/etc with 120K miles on
it, put a big carb on it an brutalize it for 2 more years at the
local race track, and show me it's condition. I'll lay good odds
that the thing would torch in one to two months of that kind of abuse.
This engine doesn't even look like it needs to be rebuilt.
More later. (If you like this series, let me know. If you would like
to see more/less detail, let me know that too. If you want pictures,
I may be able to work that out, and post them on the web site.)
Chris
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 15:12:01 +1100 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: turbo 18rg
G'day fellow Toyota enthusiasts, I'm new to email so you'll have to
forgive any faux pas. Now to test this pool of expert knowledge. I'm
presently building a turbo 18rg using the factory fuel injection set up
run by a haltech (fuel only) computer. Starting off with the more simple
inquiries 1) obviously the standard injectors are not going to keep up so
i'm looking for a straight replacement injector. Thought injectors
from the 3tg turbo, 3sg-te, or 7mg-te would flow sufficient fuel but I
don't know if they are compatible either physically or electronically
with the 18rg set-up. 2) I'm looking to run around 12 psi boost (nothing
too radical) so does anybody know of a factory pop-off valve which would
be suitable, I also plan to plumb the pop-off back into the cold airbox
intake. That should do for now (don't worry there will be plenty more),
any ideas, part numbers, suppliers etc greatly appreciated thanx.
seeya, Justen
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Jay_Kopycinski-RYNA10@email.sps.mot.com
Date: 30 Nov 95 08:14:10 -0600
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE>2xR Rebuild
Reply to: RE>2xR Rebuild
Keep it coming Chris. Good info.
Jay
--------------------------------------
Date: 11/29/95 10:14 PM
To: Jay Kopycinski
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com@smtpsend
Apparently-To: RYNA10@email.sps.mot.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Thought I'd make another installment on the rebuild progress. Clark
asked about how I separated the engine and tranny outside of the car.
This was a little bit tricky, since I was alone at the time. I had the
entire engine/tranny combo hanging from the engine lift together, just
as I had pulled it out of the car. The trick of lifting something like
this is balancing it. I used two short pieces of chain and put a lift
hook on the RF and LR of the head (normal location, I think.) Since the
rear hook is much closer to the center of the configuration, it lifts
most of the weight. Fortunately the rear hook is opposite the center
of gravity of the combo, so the front hook holds balance of the weight.
I had already removed the starter (remember about 3 months ago when I
mentioned replacing the starter on the truck? Now you know where I got
it!) so I had only the bolts holding the tranny to the engine, including
those that hold the clutch slave cylinder in place. I took all of these
out. I then lowered the engine all the way to the bottom, and balanced
it on two 2x4's, each placed on edge across the lower supports of the
engine lift. This left the tranny off the ground. I then carefully
stradled the tranny and lifted/wiggled it backwards until the spindle
came out of the clutch. At this point you're free. I'm not sure what
a W50 weighs, I'd say in the 80-100 lb ballpark. You can handle it if
you're very careful and don't have any back problems.
Ok, more up to date. I pulled the oil pan, removed the valve cover, and
prepared to remove the head. You have to remove the timing chain bolt
(Single 17mm (?) in the front of the cam) take off the distributor drive
gear, then the top timing gear. Note: If you're just going to remove
and replace the head, such as for a valve job, you are very wise to
mark the entire setup so that you won't have to retime everything when
you put it back. Since I'm replacing everything (timing chain included)
and doing a complete rebuild, I didn't worry about it. Now, the one
bit of trivia you can pickup here that will make you look like a real
2xR guru is what the call the timing chain cover bolt. I've mentioned
this thing a long time ago. It is a little 10mm bolt that lies in a
pool of oil, invisible, at the front of the head, going straight down
into the block. It is considered wise to remove this rather than
break it off when you've pulled the head bolts out and can't figure out
why it is requiring a crow bar to remove the head. The bolt in mine
is broken, but I assure you that was BC (before Chris). I'll tap and
drill that baby before this job is completed.
After you've got the timing chain loosened and removed that hidden bolt,
there are the 10 17mm head bolts. ORDER OF REMOVAL IS CRITICAL. Screw
this up and you may be tossing the head into the trash can. Basically,
it is a cross-wise circular pattern, much as you use when tightening
the lugs on your wheels, starting from the outside and going to the
inside. Just follow the order that is printed in your _factory_repair_
_manual_, which is at your side through the entire process. Here is
an idea that I'm going to implement: I'm going to stamp a number into
each bolt corresponding to the order of removal. Overkill I'm sure,
but I'm sorta goofy that way. Anyway, head bolts out, lift the valve
train off (you can store this in the inverted valve cover), and the
head _should_ lift off fairly easily. Maybe a few light taps with the
rubber mallet. If you've got to take a crowbar to it, you may have a
problem. I've had to get ugly with a few, but usually it isn't
necessary.
Well, that's where I'm at. A note about the condition of the engine.
Keep in mind that this engine was bought with the car it came in (a
78 Celica) for $300 with 120 K miles on it. The car was raced for
2 years with nothing more than a valve job and a light surfacing of
the head deck early in that period. After I installed the Nissan
double valve springs (which worked wonderfully!), it was pushed to
almost 6000 rpm during these races (usually around 5800). The
thing looks beautiful. Connecting rod side clearances, spec'd at
.3mm maximum, were barely out of spec, all evenly worn to roughly
.35mm. Block bottom end is strikingly clean. My point? Somebody
please find me a small block Chevy/Ford/etc with 120K miles on
it, put a big carb on it an brutalize it for 2 more years at the
local race track, and show me it's condition. I'll lay good odds
that the thing would torch in one to two months of that kind of abuse.
This engine doesn't even look like it needs to be rebuilt.
More later. (If you like this series, let me know. If you would like
to see more/less detail, let me know that too. If you want pictures,
I may be able to work that out, and post them on the web site.)
Chris
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Michael Kronvold
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com"
Subject: RE: 2xR Rebuild
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 08:42:12 -0600
Love it! don't stop! :)
*eyes his wife's '84 celica GT 22RE with ratchet in hand*
- Mike
--
Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering
(708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA
Toyota Supra Turbo, it's not just for breakfast anymore...
----------
From: Christopher Myer[SMTP:cmyer@CyberAuto.Com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 1995 9:52 PM
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 2xR Rebuild
Thought I'd make another installment on the rebuild progress. Clark
asked about how I separated the engine and tranny outside of the car.
This was a little bit tricky, since I was alone at the time. I had the
entire engine/tranny combo hanging from the engine lift together, just
as I had pulled it out of the car. The trick of lifting something like
this is balancing it. I used two short pieces of chain and put a lift
hook on the RF and LR of the head (normal location, I think.) Since the
rear hook is much closer to the center of the configuration, it lifts
most of the weight. Fortunately the rear hook is opposite the center
of gravity of the combo, so the front hook holds balance of the weight.
I had already removed the starter (remember about 3 months ago when I
mentioned replacing the starter on the truck? Now you know where I got
it!) so I had only the bolts holding the tranny to the engine, including
those that hold the clutch slave cylinder in place. I took all of these
out. I then lowered the engine all the way to the bottom, and balanced
it on two 2x4's, each placed on edge across the lower supports of the
engine lift. This left the tranny off the ground. I then carefully
stradled the tranny and lifted/wiggled it backwards until the spindle
came out of the clutch. At this point you're free. I'm not sure what
a W50 weighs, I'd say in the 80-100 lb ballpark. You can handle it if
you're very careful and don't have any back problems.
Ok, more up to date. I pulled the oil pan, removed the valve cover, and
prepared to remove the head. You have to remove the timing chain bolt
(Single 17mm (?) in the front of the cam) take off the distributor drive
gear, then the top timing gear. Note: If you're just going to remove
and replace the head, such as for a valve job, you are very wise to
mark the entire setup so that you won't have to retime everything when
you put it back. Since I'm replacing everything (timing chain included)
and doing a complete rebuild, I didn't worry about it. Now, the one
bit of trivia you can pickup here that will make you look like a real
2xR guru is what the call the timing chain cover bolt. I've mentioned
this thing a long time ago. It is a little 10mm bolt that lies in a
pool of oil, invisible, at the front of the head, going straight down
into the block. It is considered wise to remove this rather than
break it off when you've pulled the head bolts out and can't figure out
why it is requiring a crow bar to remove the head. The bolt in mine
is broken, but I assure you that was BC (before Chris). I'll tap and
drill that baby before this job is completed.
After you've got the timing chain loosened and removed that hidden bolt,
there are the 10 17mm head bolts. ORDER OF REMOVAL IS CRITICAL. Screw
this up and you may be tossing the head into the trash can. Basically,
it is a cross-wise circular pattern, much as you use when tightening
the lugs on your wheels, starting from the outside and going to the
inside. Just follow the order that is printed in your _factory_repair_
_manual_, which is at your side through the entire process. Here is
an idea that I'm going to implement: I'm going to stamp a number into
each bolt corresponding to the order of removal. Overkill I'm sure,
but I'm sorta goofy that way. Anyway, head bolts out, lift the valve
train off (you can store this in the inverted valve cover), and the
head _should_ lift off fairly easily. Maybe a few light taps with the
rubber mallet. If you've got to take a crowbar to it, you may have a
problem. I've had to get ugly with a few, but usually it isn't
necessary.
Well, that's where I'm at. A note about the condition of the engine.
Keep in mind that this engine was bought with the car it came in (a
78 Celica) for $300 with 120 K miles on it. The car was raced for
2 years with nothing more than a valve job and a light surfacing of
the head deck early in that period. After I installed the Nissan
double valve springs (which worked wonderfully!), it was pushed to
almost 6000 rpm during these races (usually around 5800). The
thing looks beautiful. Connecting rod side clearances, spec'd at
.3mm maximum, were barely out of spec, all evenly worn to roughly
.35mm. Block bottom end is strikingly clean. My point? Somebody
please find me a small block Chevy/Ford/etc with 120K miles on
it, put a big carb on it an brutalize it for 2 more years at the
local race track, and show me it's condition. I'll lay good odds
that the thing would torch in one to two months of that kind of abuse.
This engine doesn't even look like it needs to be rebuilt.
More later. (If you like this series, let me know. If you would like
to see more/less detail, let me know that too. If you want pictures,
I may be able to work that out, and post them on the web site.)
Chris
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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 22:38:33 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: 2xR rebuild--removing pistons
Spent about 30 minutes on the rebuild tonight, and got the pistons out.
This is pretty trivial, but you must be careful about a few things.
First, with the engine upside down you turn the crank so that the
piston is all the way into the cylinder. Then, you remove the nuts on
the connecting rod bolts. Tap _gently_ on each bolt where it protrudes
through the cap until you can remove the cap. Be careful--the piston
should be tight enough in the cylinder so that it won't drop out,
but I suppose that could happen. Take the cap off and set it aside.
The smart thing to do at this point is to place a piece of rubber hose
on each connecting rod bolt to prevent it from gouging the crank's
bearing surface as you remove the piston. If you're careful that
won't happen, but there's no reason to allow an accident to occur.
Carefully press down on the connecting rod with one hand and catch
the piston in the other.
Keeping everything in order is the other big thing to accomplish.
I like to just write the piston number on the side of the piston
with a permanent marker. Make sure also that the cap goes back
on the connecting rod in the same orientation that it was in
before removal. This is pretty easy to accomplish, since the piston
has a notch in the top where it faces the front, and the cap
has an "arrow" on it on the same side. Make sure these line up,
write the number on the piston, and you're home free. If you remove/
replace the piston, you'll need to mark the cylinder number on each
rod to ensure that it goes back into the correct cylinder.
Another note about our subject engine. The bearings looked
like new, as did the bearing surfaces on the crank! You could see
that the rods had streched a little (not unusual for an engine that
has been run this hard), as evidenced by the slightly additional
wear at the parting line of the cap/rod, and the slight less wear
at the top and bottom of the bearing, especially at the oil hole.
Oh well, more later!
Chris
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