Toyota-Mods Postings Feb 1996

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Feb 1996 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 11:49:59 +1100 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: tyre width this one is for those fonts of facts and figures. Does anyone know the maximum tyre width toyota put on the RA 23 celica (1977) including optional mags if there were any. thanks ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 00:48:47 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: GTS convertables Hello Everyone, Does anyone know if 1985 is the only year they made the rear wheel drive GTS Convertable?. I've seen 6 or 7 over the years and they are all 85's. I think they were only made one year. 84 would be the only other possibility beacause 83's had exposed flip up headlights instead of hidden ones like the 84 and 85. 86's were front wheel drive. Still looking for stock 20R cam specs!. Anyone?. Chris W Morgan 1979 Celica Sunchaser 1985 Celica GTS Convertable celicag@magicnet.net P.S.Anyone ever seen a turbo truck (22rte)for sale used?. Another rare breed!. $100 finders fee for anyone who leads me to one and the deal flys!. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 17:59:37 +1100 From: n.briggs@student.canterbury.ac.nz (Neil Briggs) Subject: me/mine/mods To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com ME: Neil Briggs LOCATION: Christchurch, New Zealand. MODEL: 1987 Corolla. I believe it's called the GTS in the states. Here in New Zealand it is known as a Levin. It has the AE-92 chassis. ENGINE: 4A-GE. With the T-VIS induction system. MODS: 2 1/4 Cat back exhaust. K&N air filter E-MAIL: n.briggs@student.canterbury.ac.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 00:34:53 -0800 Subject: Re: Flywheel To: Jack Alford Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >>(More accurately sheard the heads of the flywheel bolts off) > >I'm no engineer or anything, but that doesn't make sense, how is less weight >going to make the bolts any liklier to shear, seems like it would make it >less likely to shear ?? Inertia. The heavier flywheel requires more force to accelerate/decelerate it = less stress on the bolts from the clutch and smoother operation. A lighter flywheel is subject to more rapid response from clutch forces and can therefore create more instantaneous force against the retaining bolts. Following me? I'm not saying this will sheer the bolts, just how I conceive the possibility of it happening. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 00:35:10 -0800 Subject: Re: Tires To: Marlin Bailor , On Tue, 30 Jan 1996, Marlin Bailor wrote: >Has anyone heard of the Yokohoma Nexus ultra high performance tire? I saw >an add for it in Motor Trend last fall, but haven't heard anything else >about it. > From Turbo & Hi-Tech Perf.: Yokohama Nexus- Ultra-High Performance Z-rated Unidirectional and asymetrical "responsive handling and precise cornering" "Aqua Tusks" for uncharacteristic wet weather traction? More info: Yokohama Tire Corp. 601 South Acacia Ave. Fullerton, CA 92631 or phone: (714) 870-3838 >Will a 205/55-14 work on stock (14x5.5) wheels? I've heard you need 14x7 to >keep the tire tread flat. If your goal is performance, a 7" rim would be ideal. It would allow some sidewall overlap, but the tire would deflect less than on a 5.5" under hard cornering. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 17:01:38 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Dynoed Torque Increases. > >It's hp = torque x rpm/5252 > > Wait a minute. Wouldn't this mean that the HP and torque curves would > look just like each other? I know that's not the case in pretty much > every torque/hp curve comparison that I've seen. Am I missing something > here? > > Chris The second derivative of the hp curve wrt to torque and rpm is given by the partial differential equation (warning: this equation may have errors since its been a long time since I ever took a derivative! :-) dhp/drpm = k * dtorque/drpm + 1/5252 If the torque curve is flat, the hp curve will be an increasing straight line. Similarly, if the hp curve is flat the torque curve will monotonically decrease with rpm. If at a particular rpm the instantaneous slope of the torque is decreasing as the rpm increases, the hp can either increase, decrease or stay the same depending on the magnitude of the rate of change of the torque wrt to rpm. Similarly if the instantaneous slope of the torque is increasing the hp rate of change can go either way. Hence, the two curves can look quite different. Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 08:17:19 EDT Subject: Re: Flywheel discussion Hi all, I would like to add my 2 cents on the subject of flywheels. First of all I would agree that a lighter flywheel helps an engine to rev faster but the OEM manufacturer made the flywheel heavy on purpose and that is to smooth out the power strokes. If the flywheel was light the car would idle like a tractor i.e. rough. Granted there are many of us on this list who don't mind having a car idling like a horseride but the general populace don't like that. they would prefer a smooth car; the smoother the better. As to the bolts I would have to agree that a lighter flywheel due to it's lighter weight and therefore greter acceleration would evert more pressure on the bolts. gchan@compserv.seneca.on.ca 85 Corolla GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 08:11:26 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: RE: Dynoed Torque Increases. >It's hp = torque x rpm/5252 Wait a minute. Wouldn't this mean that the HP and torque curves would look just like each other? I know that's not the case in pretty much every torque/hp curve comparison that I've seen. Am I missing something here? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 08:32:14 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: tyre width >this one is for those fonts of facts and figures. Does anyone know the >maximum tyre width toyota put on the RA 23 celica (1977) including >optional mags if there were any. Celica GT, 76-85, 185/70SR14 Celica ST, 78-85, 175SR14 Same tire front and back for both cars. This info from the Yokohama tire guide. Your friendly Yokohama dealer has this book--are you crafty enough to sweet talk a copy from him? He's probably got a whole huge box of them behind the counter gathering dust! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Jamie Dennis - Imonics Corporation Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 09:43:28 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Dynoed Torque Increases. > From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Thu Feb 1 09:14 EST 1996 > Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 08:11:26 -0500 > X-Sender: cmyer@cyberauto.com > X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Version 2.0.3 > Mime-Version: 1.0 > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) > Subject: RE: Dynoed Torque Increases. > Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com > > >It's hp = torque x rpm/5252 > > Wait a minute. Wouldn't this mean that the HP and torque curves would > look just like each other? I know that's not the case in pretty much > every torque/hp curve comparison that I've seen. Am I missing something > here? > > Chris > According to that formula, the torque and horsepower curves just cross each other at 5252 rpm. Picture a flat curve of 200 ft-lbs of torque from 1000 to 6000 rpm: torque (_), hp (.) | | . 200 |__________________________________,_____ | . | . |. ------------------------------------------- rpm 1k 2k 3k 4k 5k 6k The hp curve is a straight line that passes through the following coordinates: (1000, 38), (2000, 76), (3000, 114), (4000, 152), (5000, 190), (5252, 200), (6000, 228) Not sure if it make much sense this way, and my ascii art sucks... What is significant about these curves is that peak horsepower of such a curve can vary by how the torque curve drops off after peak torque. Peak hp occurs at the point where the slope of the torque curve drops below (is steeper than) -.03 Hope this helps! Jamie Dennis '93 MR2 Turbo License: /dev/toy xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 11:32:46 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Marlin Bailor Subject: Re: Flywheel discussion > As to the bolts I would have to agree that a lighter flywheel >due to it's lighter weight and therefore greter acceleration would >evert more pressure on the bolts. > I have to disagree, a lighter flywheel will accelerate faster, but the force from acceleration would be the same as heavy one accelerating slower. F=ma , Torque=angular accel. X moment of inertia The torque from the engine is the same regardless. Just my thoughts Marlin '85 NA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 11:38:03 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Marlin Bailor Subject: Nexus >>From Turbo & Hi-Tech Perf.: >Yokohama Nexus- >Ultra-High Performance >Z-rated >Unidirectional and asymetrical >"responsive handling and precise cornering" >"Aqua Tusks" for uncharacteristic wet weather traction? > >More info: > >Yokohama Tire Corp. >601 South Acacia Ave. >Fullerton, CA 92631 > >or phone: (714) 870-3838 > How does it compare with the AVS? What tread wear? Anybody know if it comes in 14" sizes? It is the coolest looking tire I've ever seen. Thanks Marlin '85 na xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" From: Tony York Subject: Wind noise Date: Thu, 01 Feb 96 10:15:33 PST I have had a problem with both of my Corolla GT's or GT-S relating to wind noise. I think it is due to the flimsy top halves of the doors. Does anyone have any ideas of a) how to stop the wind noise or b) how to stiffen up the front doors. Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Dynoed Torque Increases. Date: Thu, 1 Feb 96 10:28:43 PST From: Christopher Myer > >>It's hp = torque x rpm/5252 > >Wait a minute. Wouldn't this mean that the HP and torque curves would >look just like each other? I know that's not the case in pretty much >every torque/hp curve comparison that I've seen. Am I missing something >here? > >Chris It's a formula for an imperfect machine. :) Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 96 12:41 CST From: pharmacy@mailhost.accesscom.net (patrick) Subject: k&n filter and Dynomaxx ultra flow muffler Dear Readers, I am interested in finding out what the actual performance gains are likely to be with the installation of a K&N filtercharger, RU 1500 and a Dynomaxx Ultra flow muffler will do for my 86 Corolla GT-S? Also, since its a street car, I wonder what other mods I can make to inprove performance without sacrificing driveability? What's the word word on Redline's motor oil, manual transmision fluids, and injector cleaners? Did I read about someone seeking information about GT-s brakes? This may help you: 1985-89 GT-S Sport Coupe/Liftback System Type, Fr/Rr Power ventilated Disc/disc Front Diameter 9.11 (231.5) Rear Diameter 9.09 (231.0) Swept Area, in sq (cm sq) 293.6 (1894) Final Differential Ratio 4.30 I doubt that you can swap factory brake parts(rear brakes) between the GT-S and SR-5 models because the the SR-5 rear brake dissc is 9.0 in in diameter whereas the Gt-S is 9.09 in in diameter. Good Luck. Information is from spec sheet toyota Customer relations - fax # 310-618-7814 Thank you Patrick xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 10:46:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: GTS convertables (wants turbo truck 22RTE) To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" , > Still looking for stock 20R cam specs!. Anyone?. > P.S.Anyone ever seen a turbo truck (22rte)for sale used?. Another rare > breed!. $100 finders fee for anyone who leads me to one and the deal flys!. Chris, I live in San Diego, CA and have seen a couple turbo trucks advertised in the Auto Trader over the years. Also seen a few on the road. Back in 1989 or so I purchased a 22RTE for $300 from a guy that had pulled it out of a truck in Texas. I have seen them advertised since then for around $1000. The idiot did not get the efi computer or air flow meter, so it still does not have efi. It's currently in my 1980 Celica without the turbo and with dual Weber DCOE carbs. Very slow without the turbo because of low compression ration (7.5:1). Also the flow of the 22R(TE) head sucks. PS. I've heard that the turbos (CT-20) do not last very long (maybe 60000 miles). So be very careful if you buy one used. There is a place in LA that sells an upgrade turbo with lower back pressure for less than what Toyota charges. I've got an article if you are interested. PSS. I might have the 20R cam specs buried somewhere. You might check with someone who does regrinds, they should have this info. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 10:48:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Turbo truck (was Re: GTS convertables) To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Gary writes: >I found one but lost it :). The guy wanted $2100 or something like that for >an 86 model because it was broken in. I called about it but he told me he >sold it days ago for a measly $1700!! Arg! Wanted to put one of those in >my Celica, but according to Chris, it was probably a blessing in disguise >that I didn't buy it. Gary, What's the "blessing in disguise?" Are you referring to the short life of the CT-20 turbo? I'm interested to hear more. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Turbo truck (was Re: GTS convertables) Cc: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 96 11:16:19 PST From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" > >Gary writes: > >>I found one but lost it :). The guy wanted $2100 or something like that >for >>an 86 model because it was broken in. I called about it but he told me he >>sold it days ago for a measly $1700!! Arg! Wanted to put one of those in >>my Celica, but according to Chris, it was probably a blessing in disguise >>that I didn't buy it. > >Gary, >What's the "blessing in disguise?" Are you referring to the short life of >the CT-20 turbo? I'm interested to hear more. Bryan, I believe the cost of the parts was one of the "blessing in disguise" as well as the problems I may have had installing it in my engine and I'm sure the CT-20. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Torque Specifications Please!! To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 14:44:44 -0500 (EST) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Okay, this discussion of the Torque/Horsepower formula is useless for the original subject at hand since we don't have the RPM at which these HP figures occur. Plus the fact that we don't have any Dynoed HP increases specified anyway except for maybe HKS's (if we trust their figures). Let's get back to what I am looking for here. I have an '85 MR2 Normally Aspirated. I am looking to do some modifications to boost the low end power and the power overall. When I drive the car, sometimes it just doesn't feel as fast as I want it to be. Now the supercharged MR2 has 140 lb-ft of torque at 4000 rpm, while my na motor has 97 lb-ft at 4800 rpm. What I want to know is, if I do a TRD header, HKS exhaust, K&N filtercharger with the bottom of the air box cut out, a Crane Hi-6 Ignition amp, and later, HKS 256/264 or Chris Myer's 260 Camshafts, HOW CLOSE CAN I EXPECT TO GET TO THE SUPERCHARGED MR2'S LOW END TORQUE? SINCE THE SC MR2 ACCELERATES FROM 0-60 MPH IN 6.5-7.5 SECONDS, AND MINE STOCK HITS 60 IN ABOUT 8.0-8.5 SECONDS, WITH THESE MODIFICATIONS, HOW CLOSE CAN I EXPECT TO GET TO THE SC MR2'S ACCELERATION? If anyone has done these modifications and has then tested the car on a dyno machine, it would solve everything. I would like to compare a SC MR2's power curve to the power curve expected on a NA MR2 4AGE with the modifications I have listed above. The modifications, I expect will give the 4AGE an approximate HP of 140-145. This pretty much matches the figure on a stock SC MR2, but we don't have any specs on the torque figures. The torque figures will truly tell us what we are really getting and how close we are getting to the 4AGZE's power output. With 134 HP, a NA MR2 reaches the same weight to HP ratio as a SC MR2, if you figure a NA MR2 weighs 2400 lbs (I have all the power options) and a SC MR2 weighs 2600 lbs (curb weights). So under this assumption, we may only need 134 hp to match the power of an SC MR2. Plus the fact that the NA MR2 has stronger gearing than the SC MR2 (this is another plus factor). But with out the torque figures, we don't have all the information wanted to figure this out. I am supposing that without any bottom end changes (ultimately the stroker kit at $4500 installed) the NA MR2 cannot match the low end power of a supercharged MR2, but I would like to be proven wrong on this if anyone has experience with these mods. I expect that after these mods are done I will have about 110-120 lb-ft of torque at around 4000 RPM. But again, this is just speculation. From discussion, I suppose that since the stock 4AGE doesn't have a long stroke, that not much more low end torque can be acheived without the stroker crankshaft. Again, I would like to be proven wrong about this. Remember what I stated before, I have learned by discussion and by observation that TORQUE increases and at what RPM they hit are what will make the difference in real power. ANY help on this is greatly appreciated. I look forward to discussing it with the rest of the group. Thanks, Aly, '85 MR2, Red with all options abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 12:44:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: Torque Specifications Please!! To: "mr2-interest@validgh.com" , Aly writes: > I am supposing that without any bottom end changes (ultimately the > stroker kit at $4500 installed) the NA MR2 cannot match the low end power of > a supercharged MR2, but I would like to be proven wrong on this if anyone > has experience with these mods. I expect that after these mods are done I Sorry, I don't have direct experience, I can only theorize. For a fixed engine displacement and compression ratio there is a maximum torque value that can be achieved for a normally aspirated engine. It occurs when the cylinder is completely filled (100% volumetric efficiency). VE in excess of 100% can be achieved with ram effects or turbo/supercharging. At low rpms, volumetric efficiency is pretty good, doing engine mods (other than increased displacement, compression ratio, or turbo) is not going to gain very much. Put in a low restriction muffler, header, cams, porting, etc. and if you raise the VE from 90% to 95% at 4000 rpm, you haven't gained a whole lot at that engine speed. So trying to get a 4AGE to have the same low end torque as a 4AGZE is a futile attempt (IMHO). However, if you can increase the volumetric efficiency at the higher rpms where it starts to drop off, you will increase the torque at these rpms and will also increase the horsepower. The modified 4AGE will never feel like a 4AGZE at low rpms, but it will have more power at the higher rpms and will accelerate faster at these engine speeds. To determine if the modified 4AGE will have a lower 0-60 time than the 4AGZE, you need compare gearing and the "area under the power curve." Again, sorry I don't have any measured data. Try some of the car test software that lets you put in the stats for the car. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 10:48:07 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Nexus Tires... - Advan Nexus Tires.... Welps...this is a little late. In Japan, Yokohama's top performance line is the Advan and the current "Hot tire" for track and street, is the Advan Nexus tire. At SEMA, i've got conflicting reports from the Yokohama dealers. They said it was comming out, but only in certain sizes and limited use. Mainly because of the "Advan" gets confused with the "Advantage" tires -boggle- Anyways... They work, the Japan Spec ones, are the ones they use on like the Racing 300Z's, they even say Advan Nexus on the tire. Friend in Japan ran um, and says they worth the money. Kennichi Tsuchiya runs them on his Skyline GTR, shouldn't you ? >=) Anyways, they are compared to a RE-71R or any other "Spirited street driving" type of tire, and they do work well in the rain. Oh, personally... I don't like the AVS Intermediates... tried um, trashed um. The AVS didn't work as they should, and for the price -boggle- -Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 08:00:24 +1100 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: Christopher Myer Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: tyre width Thanks Chris, saved my bacon. Toyota Aus only lists 165's which makes the widest 'legal tyre' in canberra a 215, not too good as i run 225, and 235's, but 185 takes the max up to 245 which means i'm still legal. ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 13:57:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: Dynoed Torque Increases. To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" >>It's hp = torque x rpm/5252 >Wait a minute. Wouldn't this mean that the HP and torque curves would >look just like each other? I know that's not the case in pretty much >every torque/hp curve comparison that I've seen. Am I missing something >here? It's the rpm term in the equation. With constant torque across the rpm range (ideal engine), the hp will be a straight line starting at 0 rpm. In a real engine, the hp drops off at some high rpm because the torque is falling faster than the rpm is increasing. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tony Lanterman Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 17:43:43 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: GTS convertables Yes they were a an '85 only thing. They're rare partly because they were expensive for the time at ~$15,000. For comparison my parents bought a new Jeep Cherokee that same year for $10,000 _including_ financing. I'm still searching for mine, Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Torque Specifications Please!! To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Zublin, Bryan) Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 21:37:45 -0500 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Aly writes: > > > I am supposing that without any bottom end changes (ultimately the > > stroker kit at $4500 installed) the NA MR2 cannot match the low end power > of > > a supercharged MR2, but I would like to be proven wrong on this if anyone > > has experience with these mods. I expect that after these mods are done I > > Sorry, I don't have direct experience, I can only theorize. For a fixed > engine displacement and compression ratio there is a maximum torque value > that can be achieved for a normally aspirated engine. It occurs when the > cylinder is completely filled (100% volumetric efficiency). VE in excess of > 100% can be achieved with ram effects or turbo/supercharging. At low rpms, > volumetric efficiency is pretty good, doing engine mods (other than > increased displacement, compression ratio, or turbo) is not going to gain > very much. Put in a low restriction muffler, header, cams, porting, etc. > and if you raise the VE from 90% to 95% at 4000 rpm, you haven't gained a > whole lot at that engine speed. > > So trying to get a 4AGE to have the same low end torque as a 4AGZE is a > futile attempt (IMHO). However, if you can increase the volumetric > efficiency at the higher rpms where it starts to drop off, you will increase > the torque at these rpms and will also increase the horsepower. The > modified 4AGE will never feel like a 4AGZE at low rpms, but it will have > more power at the higher rpms and will accelerate faster at these engine > speeds. > > To determine if the modified 4AGE will have a lower 0-60 time than the > 4AGZE, you need compare gearing and the "area under the power curve." > Again, sorry I don't have any measured data. Try some of the car test > software that lets you put in the stats for the car. > > Bryan Zublin > bzublin@gi.com > Dear Bryan, Once again, your responses to my questions were excellent and very helpful. I will admit, I like the power curve of the 4AGE in that it is very free revving and that the power doesn't fade until around 7000 rpm. I like what you are saying about the fact that you can't match the 4AGZE's low end, but that you can surpass its higher RPM output with these mods on a 4AGE. I suppose ultimately that this will mean a faster 0-60 and 1/4 mile time than that of a stock 4AGZE. One question: I noticed that a lot of articles on the '85 MR2 from 1985 magazines list the car as having a first gear ratio of 3.17. The February ? '85 issue of Car & Driver lists the first gear ratio as 3.56. If this is true, would you have any idea how to tell which ratio my car has? My car is an April '85 model. Thank you, Aly, '85 MR2, Red with all options abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 21:41:40 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: Turbotruk Shopping Hello everyone! I've done some checking on the availibilty of the turbo pickup. According to Edmunds its a 2 year production run. 1987 NEW WHOL. RET. SR5 X-tra cab Turbo pkup $12,488 $3450 $4975 4WD Turbo pkup $11,238 $3775 $5375 1988 SR5 X-tra cab Turbo pkup $11,518 $4425 $5950 So it seems the Turbo Truck is indeed a rare find! That's the reason I am very interested in buying one. I am not concerned with how long the turbo will last or the price of parts. I would like to buy one as original as possible and restore it to showroom condition. Any help in aquiring one is worth a c note. Anybody had a A40D auto trans rebuilt or worked on. I think mines about to go with only 80k on the clock. If you have, how much was the rebuild and what parts did they replace?. Thanks for any help! Chris W Morgan 1979 Celica Sunchaser 1985 Celica GTS Convertable 1984 Celica GT celicag@magicnet.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 14:47:34 +1100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Torque and other strange beasts. Hiya everyone, As usual the discussion on torque/horsepower is a bit of a storm in a teacup. A few _general_ rules - Horsepower gives you top speed, and torque gives you acceleration. Revs give you horspower, cylinder (air) filling gives you torque. Cam duration gives you revs, cam lift gives you torque. (_Very_ general rule) Most importantly, an engine is not aware of any supposed formula's that tell it what to do. It's just an elegant machine that responds to the laws of physics that we poor humans are still trying to get a full grasp of. What works for one engine may not work for another, so there are only a few of ways to get the numbers you want out of an engine - 1. Join Cosworth/Renault/BMW/Ferrari/Honda engine developement teams, and learn all you can, 2. Spend a truckload of bucks blowing engines and swapping parts getting what you want until you get it right, 3. Ask someone RELIABLE who has done exactly what you want before, 4. Set less exotic standards, eg, don't be radical. With our 'modern' 4AG's, etc, there is a practical limit as to what you can do. You can get 220+hp, but the low end power will of course suffer. You can get good low end power, but at the expense of ultimate power. It's very difficult to get around this problem - Supercharging is a good fix, but has its own problems. Turbocharging more often makes the problem worse, though not always. Variable cam timing is a fair band-aid. Some of you may remember the Lancia Group B rally weapons of the 80's - they had 2.0L, with a supercharger to give low end power, and at a certain point a turbo took over to give top end. It worked very well, but the overall system is a tad complex for everyday use. Ok, now pay attention - for all you 4AG (and all small, eg, <3 litre engine) owners - IT'S ONLY BLOODY 1600cc, WHAT ON EARTH DO YOU EXPECT!!!!!! If you want to blow V-8's away, it can be done - but don't expect a smooth idle, good fuel economy, and a stump-pulling bottom end. You can get a compromise (without resorting to boosting the engine), but don't try for it all, cause you're in for a disapointment. Good torque can be had from the 4AG, but you must remember - it'll be good torque for a 1600. Aly Abulkheir wrote in with a few questions regarding this very subject, so I'll use his questions to give some examples of my version of the truth. >Now the supercharged MR2 has 140 lb-ft of >torque at 4000 rpm, while my na motor has 97 lb-ft at 4800 rpm. What I want >to know is, if I do a TRD header, HKS exhaust, K&N filtercharger with the >bottom of the air box cut out, a Crane Hi-6 Ignition amp, and later, HKS >256/264 or Chris Myer's 260 Camshafts, HOW CLOSE CAN I EXPECT TO GET TO THE >SUPERCHARGED MR2'S LOW END TORQUE? SINCE THE SC MR2 ACCELERATES FROM 0-60 >MPH IN 6.5-7.5 SECONDS, AND MINE STOCK HITS 60 IN ABOUT 8.0-8.5 SECONDS, >WITH THESE MODIFICATIONS, HOW CLOSE CAN I EXPECT TO GET TO THE SC MR2'S >ACCELERATION? > You can get a naturally aspirated 4AG to perform about the same as a SC 4AG. When I did my 14.9 sec 1/4 mile, I was running against my friends 4AGZE powered KE-20. Both cars weigh about the same (930kg + 90kg for the drivers), and his engine is standard apart from having no intercooler and a bigger pulley to give more boost (don't know how much more) Using 8500 rpm, I did 14.92 sec @ 145 kph. My friend Jason used 6000 rpm and did a 14.3 @ 147 kph. Another few hundred metres and I reckon I could have reeled him in. (The 4AGZE has restrictive cams and there is no point in using more than 6000 rpm) I've had a couple of rides in Jason's car, and the bottom end power is just fantastic - far, far better than mine. The top end power, however, is not that much different from memory - hence Aly, yes, you can get a n/a 4Ag to get near the performance of a 4AGZE, but there is no way to keep a strong bottom end. My 4AG is ok down low, but only has as much as a standard 4AC single cam and as I've written a few times idles like a hotted up rotary. There are other combinations of cams, etc, that will give you good low down grunt, but at the expense of the other end. > With 134 HP, a NA MR2 reaches the same weight to HP ratio as a SC >MR2, if you figure a NA MR2 weighs 2400 lbs (I have all the power options) >and a SC MR2 weighs 2600 lbs (curb weights). So under this assumption, we >may only need 134 hp to match the power of an SC MR2. Plus the fact that >the NA MR2 has stronger gearing than the SC MR2 (this is another plus >factor). But with out the torque figures, we don't have all the information >wanted to figure this out. > Ok, maybe 134 hp _is_ enough. But the 4AGZE will always have more torque and because of that will always out-accelerate you unless you drive around above above 4500 rpm all the time. Point taken? > I am supposing that without any bottom end changes (ultimately the >stroker kit at $4500 installed) the NA MR2 cannot match the low end power of >a supercharged MR2, but I would like to be proven wrong on this if anyone >has experience with these mods. > Quite correct, though the stroker crank should help a lot. (Is a supercharger kit more than $4500?) >I expect that after these mods are done I >will have about 110-120 lb-ft of torque at around 4000 RPM. > Yep, easily - it you do it right. >From discussion, I suppose that since the stock 4AGE >doesn't have a long stroke, that not much more low end torque can be >acheived without the stroker crankshaft. > The stroke is 77mm - 0.8mm longer than a 302 Ford V-8! :) (How about a 3K - 66mm!) Cop you later, Billzilla ...... Grrrr......... P.S. Would a 3SG fit into the MR2? It reckon I could get 240 hp+ without any trouble at all. P.P.S. Was reading some other mail on this subject - there was mention of volumetric efficiency. Any four-valve in a reasonable state of tune should be up around 100% at certain rpm's. The F1 boys are up to 130% odd, so that's our target! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 22:13:29 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford) Subject: Re: Turbotruk Shopping I know someone who has a 22RTE, not sure if he wants to sell it or not, as a matter of fact, he used to be on this list ... email me and I'll give you his address ... oh yeah, he says he has the engine but doesn't have the computer ... - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com --> Decatur, AL > Hello everyone! > I've done some checking on the availibilty of the turbo pickup. According >to Edmunds its a 2 year production run. > 1987 NEW WHOL. RET. >SR5 X-tra cab Turbo pkup $12,488 $3450 $4975 >4WD Turbo pkup $11,238 $3775 $5375 > 1988 >SR5 X-tra cab Turbo pkup $11,518 $4425 $5950 > So it seems the Turbo Truck is indeed a rare find! That's the reason I am >very interested in buying one. I am not concerned with how long the turbo >will last or the price of parts. I would like to buy one as original as >possible and restore it to showroom condition. Any help in aquiring one is >worth a c note. > Anybody had a A40D auto trans rebuilt or worked on. I think mines about to >go with only 80k on the clock. If you have, how much was the rebuild and >what parts did they replace?. Thanks for any help! > >Chris W Morgan >1979 Celica Sunchaser >1985 Celica GTS Convertable >1984 Celica GT >celicag@magicnet.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Golf1par@aol.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 23:21:42 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Dave Aucott Location: Berkley, Michigan (North of Detroit) Model : 1986 MR2, Silver Engine : 4AG-E Mods : Airbox removed, TRD header, HKS exhaust, KYB dampers, Susp Tech bars (soon), Cams (soon) email : golf1par@aol.com (anytime) OR daucott@e-mail.com (daytime) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 21:37:08 -0800 Subject: Misfiring cylinder To: mr2-announce@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Well here it is: my car has developed a misfire in one of the cylinders. It started out mild and produced a slight stumble at idle and then ran relatively smoothly with adequate power up until about 7 psi of boost. Then the engine sputters as the flame is apparently going out in one of the cylinders (1 or 4 - whichever is next to the timing belt). I have changed out the plugs (one was bad) and checked spark into every cylinder, but the problem is not electrical. Only now the problem has intensified. To repeat: the ignition system is fine. There are no apparent symptoms of any mechanical damage. I.e. no rattling, knocking, backfiring. A visual inspection through the spark plug hole showed nothing amiss. Is this a fuel injection problem? The temperature around here has been in the 20s for several days, but even with the engine warmed up the problem persists. The car has become undriveable, and the shop can't even check it out until monday afternoon. Does this sound like an injector failure? If so, is it as much of a pain in the butt to replace as it appears to be? Any help, comments, or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 21:49:48 -0800 Subject: Re: Flywheel discussion To: Marlin Bailor , On Thu, 01 Feb 1996, Marlin Bailor wrote: > >> As to the bolts I would have to agree that a lighter flywheel >>due to it's lighter weight and therefore greter acceleration would >>evert more pressure on the bolts. >> >I have to disagree, a lighter flywheel will accelerate faster, but the force >from acceleration would be the same as heavy one accelerating slower. >F=ma , Torque=angular accel. X moment of inertia >The torque from the engine is the same regardless. > Just my thoughts But drop the clutch hard and the flywheel speed is changed much more quickly while the torque of the engine continues to try to accelerate it. Something has to absorb/fight this torque -> enter the flywheel bolts. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Andrew M J Pike To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" Subject: RE: Flywheel discussion Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 08:35:46 -0500 > As to the bolts I would have to agree that a lighter flywheel >due to it's lighter weight and therefore greter acceleration would >evert more pressure on the bolts. > >I have to disagree, a lighter flywheel will accelerate faster, but the force >from acceleration would be the same as heavy one accelerating slower. >F=ma , Torque=angular accel. X moment of inertia >The torque from the engine is the same regardless. > Just my thoughts I agree but would love to hear from someone else who could prove otherwise. The main point to a lighter flywheel is to reduce the moment of inertia and therefore increase the angular acceleration. However between the two flywheels the loading on the bolts will occur at different rates, with the lighter flywheel the load placed on them will occur very fast whereas it will occur more slowly with the heavier wheel. The increase in the speed the load is applied would increase the stress/strain of the bolt which may cause it to fracture, even though the force is the same. The main reason that manufactures use a heavier flywheel is to allow the driver to engage the clutch without judder more easily and the engine less likely to stall during the clutch pick-up. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 04:03:10 +1100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: RE: The (Final!) flywheel discussion. Hiya all, Being as polite as I possibly can - FOR GOD'S SAKE WHAT'S THE PROBLEM!!!!! Are you building an engine to rev or to break?? It's very simple - for racing you only need enough flywheel to hang the clutch & ring gear off, and for road use enough flywheel to smooth the idle. For road use the original standard bolts are fine, though if you have any doubts about the bolts, spend a few bucks (maybe a total of $20 or so) and some brand new ones. For racing or high performance use 'Unbrako' or 'ARP' or some such animal. That was fairly painless, wasn't it? Billzila..... Grrrrrrrrrr.......... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Feb 96 10:48:58 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: coolant basics, water wetter Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com alan auerbach F (aauerbac@mach1.wlu.ca) writes: > On Thu, 1 Feb 1996, Christopher Jensen wrote: > > > > Water wetter is a product which improves the thermal conductivity of the > > 'water' in your radiator. I use it since it supposedly will lower the head > > temp slightly. Anything I can do to prevent the head gasket from going. I > > think it's at its max running at 15psi. So you try and do whatever you can > > to lower the temp even a few degrees. > > Wouldn't it be easier to leave the rad cap loose, so as to not pressurize > the cooling system? Isn't the purpose of pressurization to let the rad > get hotter? Al. This is all based on Physics, which for me is fuzzier by the day... The transfer of heat out of the engine, or for that matter any system, is (in part) determined by the delta in the temperatures... If you reduce coolant pressure, you reduce the maximum temperature the system can be run at without boiling away; results are heat transfer thru the radiator will be less and the temperature inside the engine (where it counts alot) will be higher! Higher coolant to air temperature differences == greater heat flow to the air. BTW, pressure alone doesn't affect the heat flow (in simplistic theory; fluid pressure can have a significant positive effect on even coolant distribution through the passageways!) Water "wetter" must work by increasing the thermal conductivity property of the coolant mix. This causes the coolant to draw heat faster from the engine, given similar temperature diffs. So the engine metal temperatures are lower given the same coolant operating temperature. This is especially useful when engine temperatures want to rise from the stress of turbo-boost/WOT/RPMs. On the other side, the radiator will become more effective too, although you have to consider the limitations of the air flow. It's been claimed that ethylene glycol (antifreeze) coolant mix has actually worse conductivity than plain H2O. It's used all the time though because of its other properties (lubrication/anti-boil/ anti-freeze/anti-corrosion?). Hence we have coolant "wetter". The actual temperature of the engine coolant should be controlled by the thermostat, assuming no other limiting factor has been reached, such as lack of cooling air, or evaporization. I apologize for my lack of using the correct scientific terms, symbols, and eqns (and gross errors), but it's been a while since Physics 101... In short, if you run pressureless, you (1) loose coolant, and (2) have hotter engine (internal) temperatures. This is confirmed via direct experience with a defective cap. Which do you want hotter, the engine or the radiator? The last time I wanted to try some of this water weter stuff, my local retailer was sold-out. Any downsides to it besides cost? Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather, ONLY 180K miles! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: 4AGZE's - How much in Aus. To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 15:44:33 -0500 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Dear Bill, Regarding your letter about being able to get a 4AGZE for $1100 US dollars in Australia, is this for a used engine? From a wrecking yard? Or for a new or rebuilt one? Imported from Japan directly? I would love to hear more on this and about any of this availability for us in the United States. Oh and one more thing, does the price include the 4AGZE ECU (computer) or does this cost extra and how much extra? Thanks, Aly, '85 MR2, Red with all options abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu PS, If the price is this low, I may reconsider putting a 4AGZE in my '85 even though I much prefer the "simplicity" of a normally aspirated motor. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 14:56:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Re: Torque Specifications Please!! To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" > One question: I noticed that a lot of articles on the '85 MR2 from > 1985 magazines list the car as having a first gear ratio of 3.17. The > February ? '85 issue of Car & Driver lists the first gear ratio as 3.56. If > this is true, would you have any idea how to tell which ratio my car has? > My car is an April '85 model. Aly, Some Toyota's list the final ratio on the label in the engine compartment (my 1980 Celica does). The newer MR2s have codes that indicate (among other things) whether the car has limited slip or not. Try posting to the MR2 list, someone there probably has the answer. I guess you could always lift one rear wheel and turn the engine with the transmission in first gear and do the measurement. This will give you the overall ratio, you'll need to know the final drive ratio to calculate the transmission ratio. Also, with one rear wheek fixed, does the other spin twice as fast? Another correction factor.... Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 21:00:16 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: An idea for kicking around... I was just wondering if it might be time to break TM up a little bit somehow. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm sure that there are some 4AG folks out there that just get bored to death when they see these long winded posts about 22R pointers. Vice-Versa, I'm sure that the same sort of thing is true when the 4AG guru's get going. My concern is that there are a lot of "quiet" folks that are probably hesitant to jump in with their thoughts and ideas when we have such a huge bunch of guru's who are always ready to jump in with their $.02 (me being a guilty party, of course.) I get mail from time to time from folks I've never seen post on TM that say "I've been lurking..." and then go on to list all of the wonder modifications that they've done but have never posted. Ok, I'm up late, gotta get up at 0400 for Natural Guard, so I can't expound on this any further. Please give this idea a few good kicks and let me know what you think. There are a number of ways we could implement this, using side-groups, digests, etc. Maybe a 20R guru would want to be a regular member of a TM-20R group, but a digest-only member of a TM-4AG group. We could keep the TM group for more "general" info. (If you don't like this idea, you are responsible for flaming it to death...) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 17:07:43 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: An Idea kicking around >=) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 21:00:16 -0500 From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) Subject: An idea for kicking around... Chris... It might be a good idea, however, there are several mailing lists out there all Toyota Related. Such as the Toyota 4x4 list Toyota MR-2 list Toyota Supra list Toyota list and even the more then famous...its "in"famous Toyota-WOB group >=) Tis might be a good idea -shrug- I need more email anyways >=) Specialization is kewl... -Allen T Koji Kam 1988 Toyota FX-16 1988 Turbo Supra with T-04 Garret Turbo (if deal goes through) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 00:11:48 -0500 (EST) From: Aaron Buhr Subject: Re: Attention AAron To: Sevan Davitian Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List , On Fri, 2 Feb 1996, Sevan Davitian wrote: > If the carb on your new car is one of the variable venturi jobs DO NOT > SPRAY ANY CLEANERS INTO IT AND DO NOT PUT ANYTHING FUNKY IN THE GAS TANK > !!!! exuse the shout, and the space consumption, but Aarons had enough > trouble, and want to save him extra. The slider on those carbs has a special > coating which is dissolved by many cleaners, and which once it is gone the > carb is a good paper weight. > > P.S. there was a recall on them for a while ! Hmm... I'm starting to have a bad feeling. The engine was running a bit rough, so I dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron cleaner in the gas tank, and now it's running a lot rougher. :( It idles really rough and sputters at higher rpms. I've been telling myself that it's just an ignition problem that will go away when I change the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor this weekend, but from the sound of this maybe not. How do I further determine what the problem is with the rough running, and if the carb is having problems what's the next step? *sigh* I think I must have pissed off the Car God in some previous life. Help. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 23:27:23 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford) Subject: RE: An Idea kicking around >=) > >Such as the Toyota 4x4 list Where is there a Toyota 4x4 list ?? - jack xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Golf1par@aol.com Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 01:35:56 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Oh... do I need a clutch! Hello everyone! I've been reading all the comments on the flywheel bolts, and it got me thinking about how bad my clutch is getting. It's a stock 1986 4AG-E clutch with roughly 106K miles and it's ready for a change! Here's the deal -- I plan on doing some serious running with this car and I want SOLID lockup when I launch it. I'll be autocrossing and generally treating this clutch like hell, and I will also have the car on the street, though not my daily driver. I've heard some suggestions from some "experts," but I'll keep that to myself for now. I'm interested in hearing any comments you have on metallic vs. ferodo, stock pressure plate vs. some performance ones (Centerforce, etc.), stock flywheel vs. light, and anything else you feel applies. Any recommendations from someone who's done it? Dave 1986 MR2 -- no airbox, TRD header, HKS pipe, cams (soon) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Golf1par@aol.com Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 01:35:59 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: An idea for kicking around... >I was just wondering if it might be time to break TM up a little bit >somehow. > >Maybe a 20R guru would want to be a regular member of a TM-20R >group, but a digest-only member of a TM-4AG group. We could >keep the TM group for more "general" info. I've only been subscribed to the TM list for a few days now, and I've been "lurking" to get a flavor of the whole deal (guilty as charged!). Since I expect to have my mailbox pummelled with comments on this idea I thought I'd get my thoughts in... I personally enjoy reading the comments people have on other engines. I'm always trying to learn more about the benefits of different mods, and I think many comments, although perhaps not specifically written for the 4AG, are useful in understanding the concepts. General questions on cams, torque, hp, brakes, gearing, whatever are always helpful and certainly have a place in TM-4AG, TM-20R, and TM-digest. This brings me to a peculiar scenario... Suppose I have a comment on torque vs. hp. Do I post that to TM-4AG? TM-20R? TM-digest? What I don't want is to get the same note posted in several different areas that I'm subscribed to, yet I don't want to miss the "good stuff." I get enough mail already without having to weed through "repeat" mail. With that said, I'll defer to the comments of the "old timers" that have had to endure these "long winded posts" on the 20R... (come on, are they really that bad?) :):):) Dave 1986 MR2 -- Look for future comments on my mods... Golf1par@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 22:40:41 -0800 Subject: Cylinder misfire To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Ok here's the latest on my cylinder miss on boost and at idle: In hopes and as suggested by others I tried to reset the engine computer by disconnecting power. Supposedly this will work if it is a problem with the fuel mapping. No dice. Next I tried a bottle of octane booster with injector cleaner plus a bottle of straight injector cleaner in the same tank of gas. 35 miles later - no improvement whatsoever. Contrary to what I reported earlier the cutout does not occur at 7psi of boost in the manifold. This is the pressure at the turbo. Instead I noticed tonight that it cuts out as soon as the factory gauge indicates boost in the manifold. I.e. if I'm not running a vaccum, I'm getting the miss. I'm still leaning toward the injector failure theory, but I don't know of a way to check the operation of the injector without removing it. Supposedly the injector will show a resistance of 2-4 ohms when it is good, but this doesn't necessarily mean that it works correctly. I measured mine at 3.4 ohms. The signal from the EFI is apparently constant, but the engine wasn't stumbling at idle after I checked this. I did find a hose off of a VSV, but replacing it made no difference. I guess unless anyone has any better ideas, it's time to get some error codes. Thanks again to those who responded. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: An idea for kicking or something To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 02:51:07 -0500 (EST) I agree with Dave. I like this toyota-mods list being about all of our different engines and models. If I only liked MR2's, I'd be limiting myself. I agree that even though someone may be talking about another engine, you can still apply the idea to your engine and car. This has happened many times to me. And besides, we discuss all of the cars I'd love to own if I had the money and the money to pay for the insurance. These include my '85 MR2, an '89 MR2 SuperCharged, an '86 Celica GTS, an '89 Supra Turbo, a black '85 4x4 Xtra Cab pickup with a nice roll bar please, a '91 MR2 Turbo, a '94 MR2 Turbo, etc....I could go on and on, but I don't want to bore you guys....The bottom line: Let's leave the list the way it is. I like it a lot. Aly, '85 MR2, Red with all options abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: 4AGZE's - How much in Aus. To: phantom@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Travis Morien) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 03:00:11 -0500 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > I considered putting a turbo in my 1988 MR2, but ditched the idea when I > realised that the market price of an MR2 SC is about the same as a MR2 > NA, at least in Perth. One day I will just sell my NA and get an SC for > not very much more money. See if you can find an SC in a car dealership, > for a few hundred bucks he might just swap the thing. > > Of course if you have already upgraded your NA with all sorts of > aftermarket goodies, you might not want to do this, but this is just what > I have been thinking. > > I have decided not to modify my NA for just this reason, I am waiting for > a good clean SC to come along so I can trade up, of course I have > considered getting a supra or GT4 instead, but I am still deciding. > > Cheers, > Travis. Dear Travis, I agree that this would be a logical step to take. But the reason I would not do it is because I prefer the rest of the '85 MR2 compared to an '88-'89. I prefer the body color keyed interior (my black and red seats), the door panels are easier to work with for a nice sound system, the automatic climate control system (not available on ANY MR2 after '85), and a few other things as well. I may buy an '89 SC MR2 someday, but I would not want to give up my '85 for it. Besides, the 4AGE is simpler without all the supercharger hardware (even though the under hood appearance of a SC MR2 is simply beautiful). Thanks for the ideas, Aly, '85 MR2, red with all options abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... Date: Sat, 3 Feb 96 3:41:40 PST How about grouping the 2xR[ET] (ie: 20R, 22R, 22RE, 22RET) together? Also, I wouldn't mind a 2xR[ET] and the M engines (ie: 5M, 7M ). Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 09:31:49 -0500 (EST) From: Aaron Buhr Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... To: Toyota Modifications Mailing List On Fri, 2 Feb 1996, Christopher Myer wrote: > I was just wondering if it might be time to break TM up a little bit > somehow. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm sure that there are some 4AG > folks out there that just get bored to death when they see these long > winded posts about 22R pointers. Vice-Versa, I'm sure that the same I like reading about cars and engines that I don't have. Quite often information about other engines will give me a better understanding about engines in general. I would suggest that if people really don't like reading about cars/engines that don't apply to them, we should adopt a convention of putting the car/engine in the subject line, such as "[7MGTE] Running lean?" or "[Supra] Strut tower braces". That way folks that aren't interested can just delete the message without having to read it to see if it applies to them. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 09:35:49 -0800 Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... To: Golf1par@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >What I don't want is to get the same note posted in several different areas >that I'm subscribed to, yet I don't want to miss the "good stuff." I get >enough >mail already without having to weed through "repeat" mail. > >With that said, I'll defer to the comments of the "old timers" that have had >to endure these "long winded posts" on the 20R... (come on, are they >really that bad?) :):):) I honestly don't think there is a need for multiple lists. Whenever I see 20R, 22R, or 4AG something or other in the subject line I just hit the delete key. Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo, 3s-GTE equipped kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Feb 96 10:51:21 PST From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca (Geoff Seeley) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... I agree with Aaron, I like to read about other modifications to different engines and cars. I've picked up quite a bit of information from this as well... I also like Aarons suggestion about the subject lines (even though I read and archive everything anyway :-) as it makes scanning and searching though your mail folder for the info you want to read NOW. I vote for leaving the list as is. Geoff '91 MR2t, 163,300km http://mr2.com/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 03:41:19 -0500 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Torque, ps. >P.S. Would a 3SG fit into the MR2? It reckon I could get 240 hp+ without any trouble at all. I assume you mean a first generation MR2. I suspect that it could be done, as I have seen a picture of an AE101 with a 3SG in it. The car was in a TRD Japan brochure, and apparently used only ' off the shelf' parts for the installation.The reasoning here is the similarities between the engine bays in the two cars. The only question I have is regarding parts availability for the 3SG. Pistons are easy to come by, but cams and springs are difficult to find. Are you aware of any suppliers, or anyone who has built up one of these motors? I have blocks and heads avaliable, so this makes it a desirable project. Mike Dowe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 08:53:42 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... >To: halfbreed >From: celicag@mailhost.magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) >Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... > >>To: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) >>From: celicag@mailhost.magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) >>Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... >> >>>I was just wondering if it might be time to break TM up a little bit >>>somehow. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm sure that there are some 4AG >>>folks out there that just get bored to death when they see these long >>>winded posts about 22R pointers. Vice-Versa, I'm sure that the same >>>sort of thing is true when the 4AG guru's get going. My concern is >>>that there are a lot of "quiet" folks that are probably hesitant to >>>jump in with their thoughts and ideas when we have such a huge bunch >>>of guru's who are always ready to jump in with their $.02 (me being >>>a guilty party, of course.) I get mail from time to time from folks >>>I've never seen post on TM that say "I've been lurking..." and then >>>go on to list all of the wonder modifications that they've done but >>>have never posted. >>> >>>Ok, I'm up late, gotta get up at 0400 for Natural Guard, so I can't >>>expound on this any further. Please give this idea a few good kicks >>>and let me know what you think. There are a number of ways we could >>>implement this, using side-groups, digests, etc. Maybe a 20R guru >>>would want to be a regular member of a TM-20R group, but a digest-only >>>member of a TM-4AG group. We could keep the TM group for more "general" >>>info. >>> >>>(If you don't like this idea, you are responsible for flaming it to >>>death...) >>> >>>Chris >>> >>> Hello All, >> As far as I'm concerned I'll be more than happy to spark the blow torch on this idea!. >> I've been on this list since the beginning of december and have yet to hear from any 20R guru's. Maybe this isnt long enough. I've looked through all the archived posts and dont remember seeing much about the R series motors. >> Let's take a look at the title of this list: Toyota-mods. TOYOTA to me means ALL Toyotas!. My loyalty lies with the name Toyota and all vehicles produced by that company. I dont want to limit myself to a particular make or model. I want to hear about ALL motor types, ALL models, and ALL modifications to them!. >> Some people post, some dont. I chalk it up to different personalities. Some are introverts (no posts), some are extroverts (always post), my wife calls me a pervert, but thats a different mailing list. The point is you are offered the whole ball of wax here, take what you want and leave the rest. Get familiar with your DELETE key if you are not interested it really does work!. If you want to limit your technical knowledge of other motors and models feel free, I dont!. >> That's my dollars worth, thanks for your time! >> >>Chris W Morgan >>1979 Celica Sunchaser (possibly the first factory convertable) >>1984 Celica GT >>1985 Celica GTS Convertable >>celicag@magicnet.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ARacer@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 15:21:00 -0500 To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'" Subject: '91 Cressida Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:04:25 -0600 This is from off of http://cyberauto.com/toyota-mode/engines.txt: Cressida 79 4M Cressida 80 4M-E Cressida 81-82 5M-E Cressida 83-86 5M-GE does anyone know what the Cressida's beyond that have? (yes, I could just wait til I got home and look under the hood, but I'm impatient!) I am looking for specs on this engine, I remember the dealer saying "It's the same engine they use in supras" but I know it's not a 5M engine in the '91, and I really don't think it's a 7M either. cartest lists the '89 Cressida as having: Disp: 2954 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM Horsepower: 190 bhp @ 5600 rpm Torque: 185 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm Comp Ratio: 9.2:1 Redline: 6500 rpm Transmission: 4 speed AUTOMATIC Gear ratios 1st: 2.80:1 4th: 0.71:1 2nd: 1.53:1 5th: :1 3rd: 1.00:1 6th: :1 Final drive ratio: 3.91:1 Driving wheels: REAR but the '91 is definitly a 4sp auto with OD (I could call this a 5sp auto, but that's not exactly accurate) Anyone have any more detailed specs on the '91 Cressida? - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is just transportation. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Michael Kronvold To: "'supras@vicor.com'" , Subject: Technical Reading on Reciprocating Engine Theory and Design Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:54:44 -0600 My brother is looking for textbooks on engine theories and design. Something like what you would get if you were going to school in this field. (are there any univ's or whatnot that have a major in something this specific? I have noticed that most schools will push you through mechanical engineering and give you maybe one or two classes in IC engines at the most, if you beg) We are not looking for "Hot Rod Manuals" as that's what he already knows... now he wants to know why changing the charge temp will cause fuel to burn a certain way over a lower or higher temp. Some more "how does it work" info on things like: exhaust tune length and wave pulses modifying the shape and size of the squish area (quench band?) etc etc. I realize that much of this is typically learned through experimentation or learned through the experiences of others who have already done this kinda of experimentation before you. But there has to be some more formalized education available, whether it be dedicated schooling at a university or specialty tech. school, or a "learn at home" program, or maybe just a matter of finding the right books to read and understand. My brother was never much for school... barely made if out of high school. But one day everything changed and he was off to MMI to become a Harley Technician, and ya know what? he passed. I got daily calls from him talking about all the things he learned that day, things like the above (exhaust pulses and squish area) and he just oozed with excitement. Now that he is out of school, and working in a Harley performance shop (tho small), he has a lot of things he wants to play with. But before he goes off and starts cutting away at his head or making radical loop-de-loops in his exhaust, he wants to know why making mods does what it does, and exactly what affects does it have on, basicly, Everything. Anyhow, someone out there has to be in this field professionally and knows many of these things. What I wanna know is how did you learn it? Where did you learn it? Did everyone learn it by word of mouth? Working with the pro's? Or is there a path of formal training he can look forward to? This is kindofa now or never thing, if I can get him going on this, he might actually turn out to be an excellent engineer. - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is just transportation. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 12:03:14 -0500 (EST) From: alan auerbach F Subject: Re: Technical Reading on Reciprocating Engine Theory and Design To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: "'supras@vicor.com'" , Have your brother contact what Canadians call community colleges and what the Brits call polytechnics. These are post-secondary institutions that aren't universities but focus on trade training. Don't know what they're called in the US, maybe colleges as opposed to universities. Incidentally, my squish area used to ooze with excitement too, some time back. Al. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 10:12:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: Technical Reading on Reciprocating Engine Theory and Design To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Michael Kronvold writes: > My brother is looking for textbooks on engine theories and design. There is a two volume set on the internal combustion engine. I don't recall the title, but it is pretty technical. Check in the Motorbooks International catalog. Also, get on the literature mailing list of the Society of Automotive Engineers. You will get catalogs and fliers on a regular basis. The SAE also sells the book referred to above. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Mon, 5 Feb 96 14:46:01 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Flywheel I wish I had never asked that original question about 4ag flywheel weights,not only didnt I ever find out how heavy the original 4AG unit was I was treated too bad memory's of University with discussions of angular momemtum. Now guys I have an honours degree in Physics but I need an imperical 'seat of the pants' answer here. 1. Is an 11KG 4AG flywheel driveable? Is the standard backing plate good enough for 155BHP and the HKS flywheel? Do I need to replace the flywheel and/or the clutch bolts? In the case of the 2TG the answer was, 11KG is too heavy, standard clutch is good to 170, CRANE high tensile bolts were no stronger than standard and you only broke the bolts when you used them to often and over torqued them. Bruce Connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ARacer@aol.com Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 15:20:15 -0500 To: kronvold@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: Technical Reading on Reciprocating Engine Theory and Design >My brother is looking for textbooks on engine theories and design. Mike, The Society of Automotive Engineers now seems to be known, for some purposes, as: SAE International: The Engineering Society for Advancing Mobility Land Sea Air and Space 400 Commonwealth Drive Warrendale, PA 15096 They offer their engineering books under this name, anyway. Telephone given on book order form: 412 776-4970. Fax: 412 776-0790. 'Hope this helps. Ed Pitts Oceanside, Calif. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: '91 Cressida To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 01:05:42 +0200 (EET) > This is from off of http://cyberauto.com/toyota-mode/engines.txt: CHRIIIIS! When will you update that one or replace it with a link to my engines.html! http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/dataBySubject/engines.html is the place to check, with 20 times more info. > Cressida 79 4M > Cressida 80 4M-E > Cressida 81-82 5M-E > Cressida 83-86 5M-GE > > does anyone know what the Cressida's beyond that have? (yes, I > could just wait til I got home and look under the hood, but I'm > impatient!) I am looking for specs on this engine, I remember > the dealer saying "It's the same engine they use in supras" but > I know it's not a 5M engine in the '91, and I really don't think > it's a 7M either. uncomplete, but helps some: 79 US 4M 80 US 4M-E 81-82 US 5M-E 82- FI RX60 21R, 2L-T, L 82 JP M-TEU, 1G-EU, 13T-U 83-88 US 5M-GE 86 JP 1G-GTEU, 5M-GEU, 1G-GEU, 1G-EU, 21R-U, 1S-U, 2L-T, 2L 89-90 US 7M-GE > cartest lists the '89 Cressida as having: > > Disp: 2954 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM > Horsepower: 190 bhp @ 5600 rpm > Torque: 185 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm > Comp Ratio: 9.2:1 Redline: 6500 rpm True, except comp.ratio may be 9.2 (not sure about this, both versions exist). > Transmission: 4 speed AUTOMATIC > Gear ratios 1st: 2.80:1 4th: 0.71:1 > 2nd: 1.53:1 5th: :1 > 3rd: 1.00:1 6th: :1 > Final drive ratio: 3.91:1 > Driving wheels: REAR > > but the '91 is definitly a 4sp auto with OD (I could call this > a 5sp auto, but that's not exactly accurate) Do 5-spd automatics exist (in Toyotas) ? Anyway, the above ratios were used in at least eariler 7M-GE engines. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 18:17:14 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Marlin Bailor Subject: water wetter >> > Water wetter is a product which improves the thermal conductivity of the >> > 'water' in your radiator. Waterwetter reduces the surface tension of water so that it can better coat the water jackets in the engine, hence the better cooling. Surface tension is what gives water a meniscus in a glass. At certian hot spots in many engines the water/coolant mixture actually boils, (next to the jacket walls) making very small bubbles that greatly reduce thermal conductivity. Waterwetter helps keep these bubbles moving, and makes them smaller. I read this in a Mustang book, heaven forbid! Marlin '85 NA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Michael Kronvold To: "'Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)'" , Subject: RE: Technical Reading on Reciprocating Engine Theory and Design Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 17:18:37 -0600 >> My brother is looking for textbooks on engine theories and design. >There is a two volume set on the internal combustion engine. I don't recall >the title, but it is pretty technical. Check in the Motorbooks >International catalog. sounds great! never heard of it... Where do I get the motorbooks int'l catalog? >Also, get on the literature mailing list of the Society of Automotive >Engineers. You will get catalogs and fliers on a regular basis. The SAE >also sells the book referred to above. oh, guess I should have read the whole thing before replying... How do you get in contact with SAE? thanks for the lead... - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is just transportation. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Michael Kronvold To: "'ARacer@aol.com'" , Subject: RE: Technical Reading on Reciprocating Engine Theory and Design Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 17:21:44 -0600 >>My brother is looking for textbooks on engine theories and design. >The Society of Automotive Engineers now seems to be known, for some purposes, as: okay, lesson number 2 for today is, read ALL your new mail THEN reply... - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is just transportation. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tony Lanterman Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 16:58:28 -0800 To: ambuhr@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: An idea for kicking around... > I would suggest that if people really don't like >reading about cars/engines that don't apply to them, we should adopt a >convention of putting the car/engine in the subject line, such as >"[7MGTE] Running lean?" or "[Supra] Strut tower braces". > >Aaron B. Great idea. I've enjoyed learning the bits about cars I don't own. This gives the option of focusing on what you "need" to know on those days when you're short on time, and saving the rest for later. Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 6 Feb 96 11:29:19 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Flywheel To the list, Roger Smith's last note to me was very informative but highlighted a difference between ALL of my engines and some of you guys in the US. It appears you guys dont use solid plate metalic clutchs.....why? The very first thing I did when I put in my 4AG was to put a solid metalic clutch in it. It costs so little and pays for itself as you just resurface them. There is NO clutch shudder, no slip and no undesirable traits. You just give the rebuilder an old Toyota centre and $90 Aus and two days later it is done. Therefore I cant see why HKS would not recommend this for the road. Bruce Connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Tue, 06 Feb 96 14:50:30 -0600 Subject: me/mine/mods To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Name : Brian Wiencek Location : Kansas City, MO Model : 1984 4wd. Xtra cab Pickup - sr5 - Solid Axle! Engine : 22r (Early model- pre '85) Mods : Downey Header & Mid-range Cam, NWOR distributor re-cuve kit, Soon to have webber carb, accel 3000+ Ignition system. Truck is running 5" suspension lift, 35" dunlop Radial rovers, 5.29 gears, stainless brake lines, Polyurathane bushings all-around, & a detroit locker in the rear. email : bwiencek@kcnet.com * anyone used the trik products or marlin crawler transfer case gearsets??? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 15:46:52 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: me/mine/mods > >* anyone used the trik products or marlin crawler transfer case gearsets??? TRIK went out of business. Marlin just came out with new gearsets for that replace the current gearset for a much lower gear range without having to lenghthen the front drive shaft and shorten the rear shaft ... He still sells the Dual transfer case kit and in fact in his truck he has the dual t-cases with twin sticks and has the low gears in BOTH t-cases for a final drive of 400:1 if he wants it ... it'd be nice to have 20 forward gears ... Folks in his club say, when he's in LOW, LOW, LOW gear, you can't even tell that the truck is moving ... how cool would that be !! To build the greatest truck all you have to have is $$$$$$$$$ ...... - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com --> Decatur, AL xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Feb 1996 19:41:36 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Marlin Bailor Subject: MK1 wheels Does anybody have a clean set of stock mk1 alloy wheels they want to sell for a reasonable price? I live in central Pennsylvania, the closer the better. Thanks, Marlin '85 NA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: kca@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 21:34:41 EDT Subject: Re: Cylinder misfire Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Kip, If you have checked everything else and everything is OK, I would suggest running a compression check as I once had a Nissan 200SX Turbo blow the head joint on me with symptoms similar to what you have described. gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca 85 Corolla GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 22:06:40 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford) Subject: (22r) A/C at idle ? Just seeing someone post about an A/C problem reminded me of one of my own. When my engine is warm and the A/C is on, the engine rev's up and down, up and down, someone mentioned before if the compressor was cutting on and off, I've tried to tell, but with the engine revving up and down, I can't hear anything ... I've looked through my factory repair manuals and aftermarket repair manuals for any mention of what controls this and have found nothing. I'd apprecite anyone who even has the tiniest(sp?) idea of what my problem might be speaking up before I end up getting reamed at the Toyota place... Oh yeah, I have a factory carbed 22R ... Thanks - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 22:09:48 -0600 (CST) From: Chris Hilliard To: Toyota List Cc: Toyota Mods Subject: Why did they go and do that? Hey folks, I was changing my battery cables on my '77 2T-C Corolla today because they were cruddy on the battery side, have been cleaned 4 million times, and just needed replacing. I looked down at the starter side to yank that end off after I did the battery end and "oh my gosh!", Why in 'da heck did they have to put the starter in there so dang snug with everything else? I couldn't see the starter leads or even get my hand on them. I ended up having to take off the exhaust manifold to get to it. That sucked! All was not lost though, I did find a 10mm craftsman socket and a 1/4" extension lost by the previous owner down amongst there. :) Oh well....... **************************************************************** * |\/\/\/| ___________________ * | | / \ * | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____ * | (0)(0) / \ / at \ * C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org | * | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ / * | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, / * /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------ */ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! / ***************************************\____________________________/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 09:10:43 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: (22r) A/C at idle ? > Just seeing someone post about an A/C problem reminded me of one > of my own. When my engine is warm and the A/C is on, the engine > rev's up and down, up and down, someone mentioned before if the > compressor was cutting on and off, I've tried to tell, but with > the engine revving up and down, I can't hear anything ... > > I've looked through my factory repair manuals and aftermarket > repair manuals for any mention of what controls this and > have found nothing. I'd apprecite anyone who even has the > tiniest(sp?) idea of what my problem might be speaking up > before I end up getting reamed at the Toyota place... If you look at the A/C compressor pulley you can tell if the mag clutch is engaged or not. WHen it is engaged the entire pulley and hub rotates. When it is disengaged the pulley will free wheel on the stationary hub. Just point a light down there when its running and you will be able to tell if the compressor clutch is cycling on and off. Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 21:15:38 -0800 Subject: Re: Which handles best? To: n.briggs@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Neil Briggs), On Wed, 07 Feb 1996, n.briggs@student.canterbury.ac.nz (Neil Briggs) wrote: >Does anyone have any opinions which should handle best out of say, a >sedan/coupe design or a shorter more compact hatchback. An example of this >might be between the corolla GTS coupe and the FX-16 hatch, or any two cars >with the same model chassis/engine combination. Any opinions? Ideally for auto-x and high performance handling you want to have a car with as much weight as possible between the wheels, not outside them. The primary reasons for this: 1. Polar Moment of Inertia - A more tightly packed center of mass has a low polar moment of inertia. This means that it requires less force to rotate the car into and out of a turn since a greater angular momentum can be achieved with less energy input. A long car is great for dirt tracking because the high polar moment of inertia makes the car more stable and slow to pivot. With a longer car it is also better to have as little overhang on the ends as possible (hence the trend toward "cab forward" designs). The reason for this is momentum induced oversteer. E.g. a car with lots of rear overhang will tend to understeer going into a corner, then oversteer on exit because of the momentum of the rear of the car toward the outside of the curve. The low polar moment of inertia of MR2s due to the mid-engine design is part of what makes them such able handlers. If quick turn-in and exit cornering is your goal, think short. Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 16:50:37 +1100 From: n.briggs@student.canterbury.ac.nz (Neil Briggs) Subject: Which handles best? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Does anyone have any opinions which should handle best out of say, a sedan/coupe design or a shorter more compact hatchback. An example of this might be between the corolla GTS coupe and the FX-16 hatch, or any two cars with the same model chassis/engine combination. Any opinions? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 6 Feb 96 23:57:06 PST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Brett Fraser Subject: Re: (22r) A/C at idle ? At 10:06 PM 2/6/96 -0600, you wrote: >Just seeing someone post about an A/C problem reminded me of one >of my own. When my engine is warm and the A/C is on, the engine >rev's up and down, up and down, someone mentioned before if the >compressor was cutting on and off, I've tried to tell, but with >the engine revving up and down, I can't hear anything ... Hmm .. its a shame thats only happening with the AC on as thats exactly what is happening with a friends NA 87 MR2 .. mainly noticed it at warm although it may happen at cold .. the revs will typically bounce in a methodical pulse between 1000-1250 or 1500 or so .. and sometimes they'll bounce downwards from 1500-1000 so .. its really erie (sp?) (damnit that word really doesnt look right..) .. Any ideas anyone?.. We just replaced the fuel filter (didnt look like it hadb been done in the 190,000km the car has on it ) for a heavy stuttering .. seems to have cleared that up a fair bit .. but the rev prob persists. Brett xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 07:13:24 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: CAM timing and A/C On fuel injected cars, the idle-up is simply a little solenoid that leaks air into the intake manifold. Anybody want to speculate on the effect of doing something like this on a carb'd car? Obviously, you'd have to do some sort of a balanced setup on the dual side-draft setup. Another option would be adding a very small fuel injector. You could simply wire it up to open when your AC comes on, then play with the fuel pressure until your idle-up is right. The only problem that comes to mind here is that you're going to have to replumb your filtration system so that all of your air flow into the 4 bbls. goes through one place where you could inject the fuel. (Obviously, place the injector between the filter and carbs.) If you wanted to get really fancy, HKS sells Additional Injector Controllers! (Just kidding, way overkill.) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 07:45:15 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: (22r) A/C at idle ? >Just seeing someone post about an A/C problem reminded me of one >of my own. When my engine is warm and the A/C is on, the engine >rev's up and down, up and down, someone mentioned before if the >compressor was cutting on and off, I've tried to tell, but with >the engine revving up and down, I can't hear anything ... Jack: On my 22R 4x4, the A/C doesn't even come on until the idle is above 1000 rpm--kind of a reverse idle-up concept. This means at traffic lights on hot summer days I sit there with my left foot on the brake on the right foot holding the rev's right at 1000 rpm. ;-) You might have a problem where your idle is set high enough that the A/C comes on, but the load pulls it below the lower limit and it then shuts off. There is about 500 rpm between the turn on and cut off, but I could see this happening. Chris -- Christopher P. Myer Cyberspace Automotive Performance www.cyberauto.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 07:50:32 -0500 From: "ROGERS" To: LIBURD I <91557593@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>, Subject: Re: Starlet Actually Fred's my uncle! The Body kit I have on my starlet, and the same as on the yellow starlet whose picture was on the toyota mods server (Is this server still around?) Was made by a company in Barbados. Do you have a 2 door or 4 door starlet? The price worked out to about $US 1000, and included replacement front fenders, front bumper, rear wheel arches, side skirts, and an adjustable rear wing (sierra cosworth style). However I didn't worry with the wing as it was a bit to "loud" for my conservative lifestyle ;-) The only other comercially available body kit I have seen for these early model starlets, was in a RipSpeed (London U.K) catalog. Not as nice as mine (IMHO) and was more money to boot. Roger Smith Gold Disk Inc. _______________________________________________________________________________ Subject: Starlet From: LIBURD I <91557593@mmu.ac.uk> at Internet Date: 2/7/96 12:20 PM Please can you sent me any information you have on Toyota Starlet Body Kits. (I believe the man in the know is Fred Smith) UK Manchester xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 09:24:06 -0500 To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) Subject: Jacobs Energy Pak Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I know that some of you tm'ers don't believe in ignition systems, so I can probably guess what your response would be to the following.. I was wondering if anyone has had bad experiences with the Jacobs Ign. Sys. I live in Md. and over the past few days it's been 20 deg and below. My '85 Celica would not start. I couldn't figure it out, but I just recently traced it to the Jacobs. Whenever I would bypass the system, the car would start. If I immediately turned the car off, hooked it back up, then the car would start! The Jacobs would not start the car on a cold start (2hrs. or more in 20 deg.). I also noticed that when I bypassed the system my car would accelerate smoother. When I hooked it back up, let it idle, and stomp on the gas, it would sputter before revving up. Bypass it and do the same, it would rev up smooth. This may explain why my gas mileage has been suffering, even after the header and X-haust system. I don't know if it's the secondary trigger failing or what. I plan on calling the company today so they can tell me what _I_ am doing wrong (yeah right). Does anyone have one of these systems and notice a significant improvement like the kind Jacob's advertises. If noone has seen better gas mileage, quicker accel., or any of the sort, then I might have to chuck it. Thanks for your responses, and no bashing, -frederick. '85 Celica GT-S Convertible xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: bconnelly Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 7 Feb 96 9:31:39 Subject: CAM timing and A/C Hi, My car idles fine when the A/C is off, but when I turn the A/C on it almost stumbles. I raised the idle to 1,500 - 1,750 rpms with the A/C off just to compensate. With the A/C turned-on, it drops to 1,000 rpms. Is this a CAM timing problem or something else? I have stock CAMs. Follow-up question, is there a way to install and 'idle-up' circuit with twin side-drafts? Thanks, John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: bconnelly @ VNET.IBM.COM @ internet Date: 02/07/96 11:46 PM Subject: CAMS (4AG) ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ You MUST obey the HKS data sheet for EFI CAM timing if you dont want to stall when you put the A/C on. Bruce connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 10:46:18 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: CAMS (4AG) To those that asked about 3SG injectors, The Australian 4AG's have a MAP sensor and no airflow meter, so did the Jap ones. This applies to all the small crank engines. There is no recalibration necessary other than to the spark when using 3SG injectors and small CAMS, for the spark you advance it as much as possible until it pings (at least 25 before top). I have seen pictures of the US engines in the TPH and some have the OZ setup and some have an airflow sensor. If you have airflow I would be tempted to adjust the sensor as it says in TPH and then insert the CAMS and the injectors. If the CAMS are larger (280 and above) I have heard reports of low vacuum for braking, Chris is shipping me a 270 so I can try 270/264 with 3SG injectors and factory box, I am confident this will work as I have already tried 272/272 in another car with good results accept at idle. Idle for MAP sensor cars is VERY critically defined by the overlap. You MUST obey the HKS data sheet for EFI CAM timing if you dont want to stall when you put the A/C on. Bruce connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Wed, 07 Feb 96 08:50:40 -0600 Subject: 22r Timing chain & compression ratio. ?'s To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello, I am in the process of getting a webber setup for my 22r, and cleaning up the head and intake. In the process I have thought of milling the head about .020 in. (the machine shops here don't talk metric too well.) in order to raise the compression a little, and clean it up. Any Ideas? Or should I find a set of 10:1 pistons to put in for $400+ a set (If they were around $200 that wouldn't be an issue.) Also I am Replacing the timing set and have heard the late model (86-up) has a double row chain that can be swapped in if you get the timing chain cover from a newer motor? Are there any other parts I should look for with it? Or is a new timing set (chain, sprockets, guide & tensioner) and the cover all I need? Any other suggestions for improvement while I am in this far? Thanks, Brian Oh yeah, the subject is an '84 4x4, 22R, Downey Header, Downey Mid-range Cam, NWOR dist. re-curve, soon to have webber 38 or 40 DPS, and accell 3000+ ignition. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Wed, 07 Feb 96 09:21:03 -0600 Subject: Re: Jacobs Energy Pak To: fmarsh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Frederick Marsh), Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com In my search for an Ignition system, I have heard so many negative things about the Jacobs from people who have actually owned & used them - about 70% of the ones I caontacted have returned them at least once if not perminantely... Not a real good track record. The few who said they got them working properly, really like them, but I decided to stay away from them for the number of initial problems. I do believe a Hotter / Fatter spark does help and have run MSD systems, and accell super coil (on old points type cars) with good results. I am currently looking in to the accell 3000+ ignition system, it's functin is similar to the MSD, but uses newer electronic technology, and is a little smaller. How old is the unit? Is it the all-in-one or the separate coil & module? - Brian On Wed, 7 Feb 1996, fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) wrote: >I know that some of you tm'ers don't believe in ignition systems, so I can >probably guess what your response would be to the following.. > >I was wondering if anyone has had bad experiences with the Jacobs Ign. Sys. >I live in Md. and over the past few days it's been 20 deg and below. My >'85 Celica would not start. I couldn't figure it out, but I just recently >traced it to the Jacobs. Whenever I would bypass the system, the car would >start. If I immediately turned the car off, hooked it back up, then the xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 10:35:55 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov (Stuart Banks) Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Stuart Banks Location : (Washington, DC /USA ) Model : (1984 4runner SR5) Engine : (22R) prior to 7/84 Mods : (Weber 32/36 DGAV carburetor Offenhauser Dual Port intake manifold 1 mm oversized intake and exhaust valves Mallory Unilight distributor L.C. Street Performer cam Dual roller timing chain 93 mm pistons Tri-Y headers 2.25" exhaust w/ Dynomax Super Turbo muffler NWOR 2" lift Braided stainless brake lines RS 9000 shocks LA Locker in the rear 31X10.5 BFG MT) email : stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov I think I sent this to the wrong address the first time, if this is a repeat, sorry ****************************** * stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov * * Stuart Banks * * NASA GSFC Code 713 * * Greenbelt, MD 20771 * * (301)286-5934 * ****************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: LIBURD I <91557593@mmu.ac.uk> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:48:00 GMT Subject: me/mine/mods Name :Isaac Liburd Location : Manchester, England Model :Toyota Starlet 1983 Engine : Factory supplied 1.2litre Mods : Standard email :: 91557593@mmu.ac.uk I am in the process of converting my Starlet to the four wheel drive running gear of a 2 litre Ford Sierra Cosworth (204 bhp) model. This conversion includes the engine as well. I am currently sourcing the parts that I require for this conversion and I will keep you posted on the developments. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: LIBURD I <91557593@mmu.ac.uk> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:53:53 GMT Subject: Starlet Please can you sent me any information you have on Toyota Starlet Body Kits. (I believe the man in the know is Fred Smith) UK Manchester xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 10:15:37 -0600 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Jacobs Energy Pak >I was wondering if anyone has had bad experiences with the Jacobs Ign. Sys. >I live in Md. and over the past few days it's been 20 deg and below. My Yes, I ate the $37.50 restocking fee and got the rest of my money back, I adjusted my timing about 300 times, gapped, re-gapped and re-re-gapped my plugs, my engine never stopped knocking, I got worse gas mileage ... this was with an Omni-Pak ... I think Jacobs sucks in general, but makes a decent set of plug wires, which I still have and like ... ymmv - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 10:26:20 -0600 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: me/mine/mods Way cool ... Two guys with 4x4's joined the list in the same week ! How do you like that Intake, Stuart ?? At 10:35 AM 2/7/96 -0500, you wrote: >Name : Stuart Banks >Location : (Washington, DC /USA ) >Model : (1984 4runner SR5) >Engine : (22R) prior to 7/84 >Mods : (Weber 32/36 DGAV carburetor > Offenhauser Dual Port intake manifold > 1 mm oversized intake and exhaust valves > Mallory Unilight distributor > L.C. Street Performer cam > Dual roller timing chain > 93 mm pistons > Tri-Y headers > 2.25" exhaust w/ Dynomax Super Turbo muffler > > NWOR 2" lift > Braided stainless brake lines > RS 9000 shocks > LA Locker in the rear > 31X10.5 BFG MT) > >email : stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov > >I think I sent this to the wrong address the first time, if this is a >repeat, sorry > >****************************** >* stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov * >* Stuart Banks * >* NASA GSFC Code 713 * >* Greenbelt, MD 20771 * >* (301)286-5934 * >****************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'" From: Tony York Subject: me/mine/mods Date: Wed, 07 Feb 96 08:57:15 PST Name : Tony York Location : Northampton, England, UK. Model : '86 Corolla GT Twin Cam (GT-S) Engine : 4A-GE Mods : JR Clamp on air filter, lots of polish. Soon : Suspension, lowering, alloy change (Cosmetic mainly), Can't afford engine mods at the moment. Email :york@radstone.co.uk I think I've probably sent this info before but I couldn't remember and someone went and cleared all my previous mail GRRRR!!! If anyone has any cheap engine mods for the GT-S please let me know. Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 12:09:07 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) Subject: Re: Jacobs Energy Pak >Yes, I ate the $37.50 restocking fee and got the rest of my money back, >I adjusted my timing about 300 times, gapped, re-gapped and re-re-gapped >my plugs, my engine never stopped knocking, I got worse gas mileage ... >this was with an Omni-Pak ... I think Jacobs sucks in general, but makes >a decent set of plug wires, which I still have and like ... ymmv Sounds all to familiar. However, I just called Jacobs, and they said they would send me a new secondary trigger and distributor wire that would eliminate the use of the 7to8mm adapters. They attributed the no starting problem to the cold increasing resistance in the power wire to the OmniPak. They suggested I put in a 30A relay that would allow the full 12V to go to the pak. They also suggested that I replace the Bosch Platinum Plugs with the straight Autolite Coppercore and regap them .002 beyond recommended gap. Before they were supposed to be regapped to .055. I will try this out because truthfully, when I first got the thing I can't quite recall any problems off the bat. They only developed after a while. Will post update w/ or w/o warning to potential buyers. -frederick. '85 Celica GTS Convertible xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 7 Feb 96 12:13:23 EST Subject: Re: Which handles best? Uh, well, which handles better between the Corolla GTS and the FX-16? That would be the MR2 :). Okay, handling? Handling means somewhat different things to different folks, but I'll work off of some assumptions. The MR2, if you don't need the car to be very spacious, is achitected the way of all very fast cars. This proper platform starts by putting the engine in the middle of the car (and there are front mid-engined cars, and rear mid-engined cars), and then driving the rear wheels or all-four wheels, never just the front wheels. This is a bit academic, in fact, for most of us running our road cars. In the realm of mere mortal road cars, there're certainly some fast front wheel driver cars out there. And just because a car is mid-engined and rear-wheel drive doesn't ensure that the chassis is necessarily very competent. But the MR2 does have competition-demonstrated world-class chassis performance. A new generation MR2 Turbo won the SCCA Solo II nationals in A-Stock this year, beating out some very pricey competition. At the SCCA Solo II National Tour event that came through Boston last summer, MR2s took first and second places in C-Stock, with a new generation car and an '85 car in those positions respectively (though the Miata R is the car for C-Stock). Of course, above all, they were driven well, and also prepared well. Of course, in SCCA Showroom Stock road racing, the MR2s are very competitive, as is the Miata, but the new Dodge Neon ACR racing car is just downright faster. If you want to do development beyond stock, the MR2 is the platform of choice for doing something really crazy. It's just the right achitecture. Any generation will do. I'd suggest taking a simpler, lighter first generation car, drop in a Formula Atlantic motor, tweak the hell out of the chassis, and go crazy . Of course, affording an Atlantic motor might be an issue, it would be for me, but maybe you'll come across somebody who's looking to get out of Atlantic really cheap and has a bunch of spare Toyota Atlantic motors just lying around... . I don't know much about the Corolla GTS. But I thought at one time that the FX-16 might just be a sleeper. A few of the local SCCA folks had them and I watched the FX-16s run and talked with their drivers about them. Unfortunately, it isn't, or perhaps it's better said wasn't, a successful car in the hands of some pretty competent folks, and they weren't pleased with platform. - Steven n.briggs @ student.canterbury.ac.nz (Neil Briggs) 02/07/96 04:50 PM To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET cc: (bcc: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus) Subject: Which handles best? Does anyone have any opinions which should handle best out of say, a sedan/coupe design or a shorter more compact hatchback. An example of this might be between the corolla GTS coupe and the FX-16 hatch, or any two cars with the same model chassis/engine combination. Any opinions? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 09:18:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Re: CAM timing and A/C (18RG) To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" >On fuel injected cars, the idle-up is simply a little solenoid that leaks >air into the intake manifold. Anybody want to speculate on the effect >of doing something like this on a carb'd car? Obviously, you'd have to >do some sort of a balanced setup on the dual side-draft setup. Don't the 18RG and 18RGU stock intake manifolds have a balance tube connecting the four intake ports together? I remember seeing this in the Haynes repair manual (1978-1981 Celica). I think this exists in order to generate a stable vacuum for the distributor advance. This balance tube would be ideal to let additional air into for an idle up function. Since the additional air is bypassing the carb, the air/fuel ratio will lean out a bit. But it is probably running rich anyways at idle, so it might be OK. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com PS. The Haynes manual that I mentioned above is sold in the US for the US spec Celicas (20R). It also includes the 18R and 18RG engines, since this manual originates in the UK. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 13:23:39 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: CAM timing and A/C (4AG) All the 4AG's I have seen have electric idle up circuits. Check this circuit, it has a knob on top to control the air intake. If if is working ok I think the air valve is faulty, it is the valve on the bottom of the trottle body and has two hoses to it. Check the hoses for restriction, if ok replace the valve with a new one. If your motor dates from 1985-1987 it is almost certain to be the valve. It is possible to fit idle up circuits with Webbers but it is difficult, you must drill holes in the manifold and fit a valve controlled by the idle up A/C circuit which is s small steel box on top of the factory ECU. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Brett Fraser , From: Tony York Subject: Re: (22r) A/C at idle ? Date: Wed, 07 Feb 96 09:25:00 PST At 10:06 PM 2/6/96 -0600, you wrote: >Just seeing someone post about an A/C problem reminded me of one >of my own. When my engine is warm and the A/C is on, the engine >rev's up and down, up and down, someone mentioned before if the >compressor was cutting on and off, I've tried to tell, but with >the engine revving up and down, I can't hear anything ... Hmm .. its a shame thats only happening with the AC on as thats exactly what is happening with a friends NA 87 MR2 .. mainly noticed it at warm although it may happen at cold .. the revs will typically bounce in a methodical pulse between 1000-1250 or 1500 or so .. and sometimes they'll bounce downwards from 1500-1000 so .. its really erie (sp?) (damnit that word really doesnt look right..) .. Any ideas anyone?.. We just replaced the fuel filter (didnt look like it hadb been done in the 190,000km the car has on it ) for a heavy stuttering .. seems to have cleared that up a fair bit .. but the rev prob persists. Brett ============================== Hi Brett, I had problems with my Corolla GT Twin Cam ((GT-S)4A-GE) idling/ revving up and down. I later discovered that it was all due to air in the cooling system. Bleeding the system cured the problem. It was revving between 900rpm and 2000rpm.The temperature sensor was sensing the difference in temperature and adjusting the idle speed accordingly. Could be air !? Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 09:39:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Re: Jacobs Energy Pak To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" >eliminate the use of the 7to8mm adapters. They attributed the no starting >problem to the cold increasing resistance in the power wire to the OmniPak. >They suggested I put in a 30A relay that would allow the full 12V to go to >the pak. They also suggested that I replace the Bosch Platinum Plugs with This sounds like bullsh*t. The resistance of copper wire (and probably most other metals as well) will *decrease* with decreasing temperature. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: These Ignition Amps To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 13:25:13 -0500 (EST) Hello Toyota owners, Well, this discussion of Jacobs Ignition systems being troublesome is interesting. I have never owned an upgraded ignition system, but I have been planning to put one in this summer. So the bottom line is: What do the majority of people on this list believe to be the best ignition amp to go with? I suppose the top choices would now be the MSD, Accel, or Crane. I see that the MSD has a good reliability record. And that good things have been said about the other two. Anyone consider one to stand out as the most reliable and best performing one out of these three? This info would be very helpful in making my decision. Thanks, Aly, '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Wed, 07 Feb 96 14:20:50 -0600 Subject: 20R head on 22R To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello, I have another question, this time it's about putting a 20R head on a 22R engine. (better flow, more compression, etc.) Are there any mods that need to be done to the head? and also, will my Downey cam work with the 20R head, or will I have to replace that also? Thanks, Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: John Red-Horse Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R To: bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:38:57 -0500 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote: > > Hello, > > I have another question, this time it's about putting a 20R head on a > 22R engine. (better flow, more compression, etc.) Are there any mods that need > to be done to the head? and also, will my Downey cam work with the 20R head, or > will I have to replace that also? > This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 and later 22r's. cheers, john xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:51:09 -0500 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov (Stuart Banks) Subject: Impression of the Offy Howdy, Since I put the 32/36 DGAV in at the same time as the Offy it's hard for me to give a fair impression of the Offy. However after I purchased the Offy I started to hear a lot of unfavorable things about it (poor flow) so I'm planning on swapping in the original manifold (with the holes in the plenum machined out) and using Downeys velocity stack adapter. Once this is done I will let you know what I think. If anyone else has experience with this manifold I'd like to know what you think. Also I would like to get some feedback on going to a 38 DGES I am sure that the 32/36 is small for this engine at the mid. and top end but I'm worried about the 38s affect on the low end especially when starting in deep mud with 31X10.5 BFG MT and the stock 4.11:1 R&P. any thoughts? Thanks much Stuart >Way cool ... Two guys with 4x4's joined the list in the same week ! > >How do you like that Intake, Stuart ?? > >At 10:35 AM 2/7/96 -0500, you wrote: >>Name : Stuart Banks >>Location : (Washington, DC /USA ) >>Model : (1984 4runner SR5) >>Engine : (22R) prior to 7/84 >>Mods : (Weber 32/36 DGAV carburetor >> Offenhauser Dual Port intake manifold >> 1 mm oversized intake and exhaust valves >> Mallory Unilight distributor >> L.C. Street Performer cam >> Dual roller timing chain >> 93 mm pistons >> Tri-Y headers >> 2.25" exhaust w/ Dynomax Super Turbo muffler >> >> NWOR 2" lift >> Braided stainless brake lines >> RS 9000 shocks >> LA Locker in the rear >> 31X10.5 BFG MT) ****************************** * stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov * * Stuart Banks * * NASA GSFC Code 713 * * Greenbelt, MD 20771 * * (301)286-5934 * ****************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:08:05 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R > > I have another question, this time it's about putting a 20R head on a >22R engine. (better flow, more compression, etc.) Are there any mods that need >to be done to the head? and also, will my Downey cam work with the 20R head, or >will I have to replace that also? The Dec. or Jan Issue of FOURWHEELER went all out with a 20R head, I posted to this list what all they did to the head, maybe some kind soul who saved it will send it to you ?? To the list for that matter ... In this months issue(March 96) they put the engine all back together, they claim ~30% gains, they measured rear wheel horsepower on their 84 22R at 65hp before the swap , after the 20R intake/head and 32/36 weber, they measured 85 horsepower at the rear wheels ... - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:56:15 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R > >This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >and later 22r's. Why is not possible ?? I happen to know of one 22RE with a 20R head on it ... - jack xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 10:17:30 +1100 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RA 23 wheels Chris, what size rim did those 185's come out on for the RA 23, and while on the subject of wheels can anyone tell me where a vehicles track is measured from. Is it from the outside of the rim, the centre of the rim or maybe the face of the hub. I'm fairly sure it's the first but i want to make sure before i get an engineers for my 8" wheels. Thanks ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: RA 23 wheels To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 02:09:30 +0200 (EET) > Chris, what size rim did those 185's come out on for the RA 23, and while > on the subject of wheels can anyone tell me where a vehicles track is > measured from. Is it from the outside of the rim, the centre of the rim > or maybe the face of the hub. I'm fairly sure it's the first but i want > to make sure before i get an engineers for my 8" wheels. From the middle of the tyre or rim. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 17:22:31 -0700 From: Steve Alexander To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Which handles best? kca@interserv.com wrote: > > On Wed, 07 Feb 1996, n.briggs@student.canterbury.ac.nz (Neil Briggs) wrote: > >Does anyone have any opinions which should handle best out of say, a > >sedan/coupe design or a shorter more compact hatchback. An example of this > >might be between the corolla GTS coupe and the FX-16 hatch, or any two cars > >with the same model chassis/engine combination. Any opinions? > You might want to consider 2 factors: Weight, and Chassis stiffness. Less weight for the same power is ALWAYS desirable. In some cars (i.e Honda CRX vs. Si model of regular 3 door Civic) people claim that the regular car is stiffer, making it handle better! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 22r Timing chain & compression ratio. ?'s Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 16:54:15 PST From: bwiencek@kcnet.com > >Hello, > > I am in the process of getting a webber setup for my 22r, and cleaning >up the head and intake. In the process I have thought of milling the head about >.020 in. (the machine shops here don't talk metric too well.) in order to raise >the compression a little, and clean it up. Any Ideas? Or should I find a set of >10:1 pistons to put in for $400+ a set (If they were around $200 that wouldn't >be an issue.) > > Also I am Replacing the timing set and have heard the late model (86-up) >has a double row chain that can be swapped in if you get the timing chain cover >from a newer motor? Are there any other parts I should look for with it? Or is >a new timing set (chain, sprockets, guide & tensioner) and the cover all I need? The early 22r's have the double row timing chain which you can swap into the later models. LC sells a kit for this. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Wed, 07 Feb 96 19:06:29 -0600 Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I think you are talking about the tall deck blocks that were made in 85 only. there are a lot of specific parts for the year, and in 86 they 'fixed' some of the problems with the 85 and went back to a lower deck height. - Brian On Wed, 7 Feb 1996, toy4x4@ro.com wrote: >> >>This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >>good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >>and later 22r's. > >Why is not possible ?? I happen to know of one 22RE with a 20R head on >it ... > > - jack xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 20:21:05 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Jacobs Energy Pak >Yes, I ate the $37.50 restocking fee and got the rest of my money back, >I adjusted my timing about 300 times, gapped, re-gapped and re-re-gapped >my plugs, my engine never stopped knocking, I got worse gas mileage ... >this was with an Omni-Pak ... I think Jacobs sucks in general, but makes >a decent set of plug wires, which I still have and like ... ymmv Racer I know raves about the plug wires--says they never burn, even in a SB Chevy application (where the plug wires lay right on the exhaust header, or very nearly.) Chris -- Christopher P. Myer Cyberspace Automotive Performance www.cyberauto.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: 91557593@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, ROGERS@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: Starlet (body kits) Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 17:27:14 PST Speaking of body kits .... Does anyone know where I can get the Mitcom body kits for an 82 Celica? I have the kit for the GT cars that include the Mitcom fender flare. However, due to an unfortunate accident about 2 years ago, my entire passenger side skirt and front airdam was damage when I slid off the road. I want to replace the front airdam and side skirt. Anyone know of a place that carries them? Chris, can you get them? The company goes by the name of Mitcom or Prototype Plastics. They are/were based in Compton, California. The kit is called (don't laugh cuz my girlfriend did) the "shogun" kit :). It looks like the kit TRD used to sell for the Celicas/Supras - the name escapes me at the moment, but it starts with a "K" and sounds like Kalemari (yeah, right... I think I'm thinking Kalemari cuz I'm craving for Calemari) :). Thanks, Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 20:35:25 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R >This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >and later 22r's. Um, wouldn't this be the other way around, that you can't put the late model 22R head on the earlier block, with the late model head has the flat combustion chamber and the earlier block has domed pistons? Beth, what does Jeff say? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 17:35:47 PST From: bwiencek@kcnet.com > >Hello, > > I have another question, this time it's about putting a 20R head on a >22R engine. (better flow, more compression, etc.) Are there any mods that need >to be done to the head? and also, will my Downey cam work with the 20R head, or >will I have to replace that also? > >Thanks, > Brian I think it matters what year 20R head you use on a certain 22R block. Might want to check with Chris or the list on this. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, jrredho@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 17:36:16 PST >This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >and later 22r's. > >cheers, >john Hmmm.. I guess John answered my previous posting :). Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 17:37:41 PST From: toy4x4@ro.com > >> >> I have another question, this time it's about putting a 20R head on a >>22R engine. (better flow, more compression, etc.) Are there any mods that >need >>to be done to the head? and also, will my Downey cam work with the 20R >head, or >>will I have to replace that also? > >The Dec. or Jan Issue of FOURWHEELER went all out with a 20R head, I posted >to this list what all they did to the head, maybe some kind >soul who saved it will send it to you ?? To the list for that matter ... > >In this months issue(March 96) they put the engine all back together, >they claim ~30% gains, they measured rear wheel horsepower on their 84 >22R at 65hp before the swap , after the 20R intake/head and 32/36 weber, >they measured 85 horsepower at the rear wheels ... > > - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com > I read the Jan article. Did Fourwheeler have an article in Feb on the 22R/20R project truck? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 20:44:06 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: RA 23 wheels >Chris, what size rim did those 185's come out on for the RA 23, and while >on the subject of wheels can anyone tell me where a vehicles track is >measured from. Is it from the outside of the rim, the centre of the rim >or maybe the face of the hub. I'm fairly sure it's the first but i want >to make sure before i get an engineers for my 8" wheels. 5.5" The later Celica's came with 5", 5.5", 6", and even 7" (83-85 GTS.) Chris -- Christopher P. Myer Cyberspace Automotive Performance www.cyberauto.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 21:37:51 -0500 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Why did they go and do that? > Hey folks, > I was changing my battery cables on my '77 2T-C Corolla >today because they were cruddy on the battery side, have been cleaned >4 million times, and just needed replacing. I looked down at the >starter side to yank that end off after I did the battery end and "oh my >gosh!", Why in 'da heck did they have to put the starter in there so >dang snug with everything else? I couldn't see the starter leads or even >get my hand on them. I ended up having to take off the exhaust manifold >to get to it. That sucked! > All was not lost though, I did find a 10mm craftsman socket and >a 1/4" extension lost by the previous owner down amongst there. :) > Oh well....... > That's nothing, anyone know where the starter is on a LS400? Answer Tomorrow, Mike Dowe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 21:52:52 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: A/C idle-up and dual carbs (18RG) >Now there's two schools of thought presented regarding idle-up circuits. >1. squirt additional fuel and the idle goes up. >2. introduce additional air and the idle goes up. Aw, I came up with that wacky fuel idea on a whim--way overkill! Go to the junk yard and look for an idle up circuit on a fuel injected car. On my Mazda 323 they are mounted to the firewall just below the windshield. They are little plastic things, with a hose running in, a hose running out, a pair of wires to the solenoid, and an adjustment screw. The bigger the idleup switch, the more idle-up you get. On my Mazda, there are two, a small one for the electrical load idle-up, and a larger one for the A/C idleup. Usually one of the hoses runs in from the air intake just after the filter box, and the other goes into the manifold. You'll find one. You could buy one but I don't know how much one of these would cost in the Philipines. To install, just make a place to insert one end of the hose inside your air filter, and connect the other to the manifold balance thing you have. Figure out a way to jumper off the wire running to your compressors electric clutch to switch the solenoid open. Fiddle with the screw on the thing (with the A/C on) until you get the idle you want. Voila, you're in business. Interesting note as long as I'm blabbing on the subject. On my Mazda, the A/C idle up is not what it seems! It seems that some dastardly cheater drilled a hole right through the body of the idleup solenoid, through the firewall, and ran a thin steel tubing from the intake right to a bottle of special sauce hidden under the seat! Trigger was wired to the windshield wiper lever on the column. Man, what some folks will do to get an advantage over their fellow competitor! Not me, btw, but the former owner of the car. Was in first place at Daytona with this setup until the bottle ran out. Should have done what his fellow competitors did and sealed/charged the roll cage. Would have had plenty of NOS then! chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 21:50:27 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford) Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R >I read the Jan article. Did Fourwheeler have an article in Feb on the 22R/20R >project truck? Yes, but it was on the suspension and some other trail stuff, not the engine .... - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: John Red-Horse Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R To: bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 23:46:51 -0500 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote: > > I think you are talking about the tall deck blocks that were made in 85 only. > there are a lot of specific parts for the year, and in 86 they 'fixed' some of > the problems with the 85 and went back to a lower deck height. > That's not the story that I heard two years ago when I talked a fellow at TRD (I think that it was RJ) about this very subject. I *think* that I was told that the taller deck height applied for all 22r blocks 85 1/2 and later. cheers, john xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: bwiencek Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 8 Feb 96 8:16:49 Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R block (was: Re: Chris' advice on my....) Brian, I'm forwarding to you all the back-posts that I have kept regarding putting a 20R head on a 22R engine (total of three, other list members may have more). I'll send it to you through three separate mails... I hope it helps..... If anyone else on the list is interested in copies, send me a note and I'll forward them to you too.. John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: bwiencek @ kcnet.com @ internet Date: 02/08/96 03:20 AM Subject: 20R head on 22R ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hello, I have another question, this time it's about putting a 20R head on a 22R engine. (better flow, more compression, etc.) Are there any mods that need to be done to the head? and also, will my Downey cam work with the 20R head, or will I have to replace that also? Thanks, Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: bzublin Cc: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" From: "john.limcangco" Date: 8 Feb 96 8:58:06 Subject: Re: A/C idle-up and dual carbs (18RG) You are right about 18RG's having a balance tube connecting the intake ports. I'm currently not running vacuum advance and have the removed the balance tube and plugged-up the holes. I can re-install the tube and use the 'vacuum advance port' (?? I made that up) to introduce additional air. Now there's two schools of thought presented regarding idle-up circuits. 1. squirt additional fuel and the idle goes up. 2. introduce additional air and the idle goes up. Am I confused? Yes I am. Someone please straighten me out here.... How does the idle-up work? Thanks, John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com ("toyota-mods@cyberauto.com") @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: BZUBLIN @ PO2.GI.COM ("Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)") @ internet (Mailed by: BZUBLIN @ PO2.GI.COM ("Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)") @ internet) Date: 02/07/96 10:18 PM Subject: Re: CAM timing and A/C (18RG) ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ >On fuel injected cars, the idle-up is simply a little solenoid that leaks >air into the intake manifold. Anybody want to speculate on the effect >of doing something like this on a carb'd car? Obviously, you'd have to >do some sort of a balanced setup on the dual side-draft setup. Don't the 18RG and 18RGU stock intake manifolds have a balance tube connecting the four intake ports together? I remember seeing this in the Haynes repair manual (1978-1981 Celica). I think this exists in order to generate a stable vacuum for the distributor advance. This balance tube would be ideal to let additional air into for an idle up function. Since the additional air is bypassing the carb, the air/fuel ratio will lean out a bit. But it is probably running rich anyways at idle, so it might be OK. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com PS. The Haynes manual that I mentioned above is sold in the US for the US spec Celicas (20R). It also includes the 18R and 18RG engines, since this manual originates in the UK. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 06:46:12 -0800 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: LS 400 starter To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Mike Dowe questioned where the starter was in a Lexue LS400 On the 4.0 Liter V-8 isn't the starter in the valley under the intake manifold..... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Thu, 08 Feb 96 08:51:52 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re[2]: 20R head on 22R My 1977 20R has flat pistons not domed ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R Author: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/7/96 9:00 PM >This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >and later 22r's. Um, wouldn't this be the other way around, that you can't put the late model 22R head on the earlier block, with the late model head has the flat combustion chamber and the earlier block has domed pistons? Beth, what does Jeff say? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 07:06:55 -0800 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Ignitions To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello there everybody.. I'm new to this internet e-mail thing, and I'm no expert on ignitions but this is what I have and it works well. '87 MR-2 4AGE Turbocharged 240 bhp. I started With HKS's EGC unit and Twin Power setup. Hated it. The Twin Power alone worked GREAT, The EGC however I could not get set up right, bouncing timing at idle inconstiant timing curve, poor starts, poor mileage. I removed both of those and replace it with the Jacobs OminPak and a Jacobs boost timing controller ( not sure of the name it was a few years ago ) Similar problems as above. The setup I have now is... J&S Electronice Digital SafeGuard and the HKS Twin Power Amp. I LOVE THIS ! I set my timing 2-3 degrees advanced and forget it. The J&S unit has a knock sensor that listens to EACH cylinder and retards only the one that starts to knock. It's sensor hears it way before anyones ear ever would. I'v had no problems with this setup even when running 15 psi of boost. Only one note. the Toyota ingnition system needs a special coil installed in the J&S unit in order for the factory ECU to think it still has a coil connected. No problem though the unit can be ordered that way. Disclaimer: Although this recomendation or modification has been sucessful in my application it has not been subject to exaustive testing and may not in all instances provide a compleate soultion. Thease are my opinions and may not nessarly agree with the opinions of management or others. Thank You John Welch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 8 Feb 96 11:10:54 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Idle up on 2TG 18RG To the list, The factory card manifolds for the 2TG/18RG have a balancing setup that leads to the PCV and eventually to outside world via a steel valve on the CAM cover. This leaks air into all 4 inlets at once and was used to stop the 9.8:1 (2TG) engines running on. When fitting Webbers you usually stop up these holes however they can be used for A/C idle up. All my 2TG's came with A/C and small idle up circuits. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 8 Feb 96 11:27:44 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: FX-16 v's AE86 v's Early MR2 Guy's, This is just my opinion but I have owned and raced all three cars in Australia in the standard and modified classes. On radials ( 'R' class tyres)the AE86 IS king over the AE82 and the MR2 is the SLOWEST!!!!! The reason is,it is that the MR2 is too heavy and the 86 handles better having almost no vices. The MR2 has DRAMATIC oversteer at the limit, it is too heavy in the rear. The 82 is fastest in a straight line and will win on long straight tracks because it is slightly lighter. If the speed of the circuit exceeds 185Km/hr down the main straight then 82 will hit an air wall and the MR2 will eventually pass it. In tight tracks the 82 handles badly because the frame flexes, they fixed this on the 92 but did it at the expense of weight. For all round work the 86 is best, followed by MR2 then AE82. Please understand this is my opinion and these cars may have different weights in the US. However the last of the 2 litre MR2's just leaves all the other under 2 litre Toyotas for dead. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: bconnelly Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 8 Feb 96 11:03:50 Subject: Idle up on 2TG 18RG Do tell more! =) I basically have two problems that might be addressed in this thread.... Bells are going off in my head right now =) 1. Engine run on. I have 9.7:1 compression. What do I plug to what? On the 18RG block, right below the carbs, there's a metal tube (fitting) pointing upwards... and on the middle of the balance tube, there's a metal fitting pointing downwards. Should I connect these two fittings together with a rubber hose? (I don't think I should) Right now, they are both plugged up. According to some 18RG pictures I've seen there's a rubber hose (#1) connected to the CAM cover and the air cleaner. And there's another tube (#2) connected to the air cleaner and a metal canister (valve?) that is bolted on the CAM cover. Another hose (#3) connects the canister to something in the middle of the two carbs (can't tell where). Could it be that hose #3 is connected to the fitting in the balance tube that is pointing downwards? When does the valve leak air in? All the time? or only when you shut the engine off? If so, is this valve electrically actuated? 2. A/C Idle-Up. Again, what goes where? I have stock Mikuni carbs. Is the setup that stops engine run-on the same circuit that raises the idle? Or is it a choice between getting an idle-up circuit or stopping engine run-on? I'd appreciate any help... Thanks, John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: bconnelly @ VNET.IBM.COM @ internet Date: 02/09/96 12:10 AM Subject: Idle up on 2TG 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To the list, The factory card manifolds for the 2TG/18RG have a balancing setup that leads to the PCV and eventually to outside world via a steel valve on the CAM cover. This leaks air into all 4 inlets at once and was used to stop the 9.8:1 (2TG) engines running on. When fitting Webbers you usually stop up these holes however they can be used for A/C idle up. All my 2TG's came with A/C and small idle up circuits. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 11:23:03 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) Subject: Re: Ignitions >The setup I have now is... > >J&S Electronice Digital SafeGuard and the HKS Twin Power Amp. > >I LOVE THIS ! > >I set my timing 2-3 degrees advanced and forget it. >The J&S unit has a knock sensor that listens to EACH cylinder and >retards only the one that starts to knock. It's sensor hears it way >before anyones ear ever would. I'v had no problems with this setup >even when running 15 psi of boost. > >Only one note. the Toyota ingnition system needs a special coil >installed in the J&S unit in order for the factory ECU to think it >still has a coil connected. No problem though the unit can be ordered About how much for a system such as this one? Any problems in extreme temperatures? What kind of plugs are you running? Enuf questions? -frederick. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Thu, 08 Feb 96 10:32:51 -0600 Subject: Re: Re[2]: 20R head on 22R To: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, That's why the compression ratio increase. The 22R (Early) uses a piston with a Donought or raised ring at the top, increasing the compression. - Brian On Thu, 08 Feb 96, Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil wrote: >My 1977 20R has flat pistons not domed >>>This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >>good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >>and later 22r's. > >Um, wouldn't this be the other way around, that you can't put the >late model 22R head on the earlier block, with the late model head has >the flat combustion chamber and the earlier block has domed pistons? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 09:40:32 -0800 To: Gary Hong , Subject: Re: Starlet (body kits) Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Feb 7, 5:27pm, Gary Hong wrote: > Subject: Re: Starlet (body kits) Gary, Call Han Motoring in Alhambra. Peter Han there used to work with the owners of Mitcom so you could possibily get the pieces you need or they could still fabricate one for you. Give them a call if you are interested. Allan =============================================================================== > Speaking of body kits .... Does anyone know where I can get the Mitcom > body kits for an 82 Celica? I have the kit for the GT cars that include > the Mitcom fender flare. However, due to an unfortunate accident about 2 > years ago, my entire passenger side skirt and front airdam was damage when I > slid off the road. I want to replace the front airdam and side skirt. > Anyone know of a place that carries them? Chris, can you get them? > > The company goes by the name of Mitcom or Prototype Plastics. They are/were > based in Compton, California. The kit is called (don't laugh cuz my > girlfriend did) the "shogun" kit :). It looks like the kit TRD used to sell > for the Celicas/Supras - the name escapes me at the moment, but it starts with > a "K" and sounds like Kalemari (yeah, right... I think I'm thinking > Kalemari cuz I'm craving for Calemari) :). -- ******************************************************************************* Allan Chen Silicon Graphics Inc. Mountain View, CA allanc@sgi.com ******************************************************************************* xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 96 09:46:40 PST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Brett Fraser Subject: Re: Starlet (body kits) >based in Compton, California. The kit is called (don't laugh cuz my >girlfriend did) the "shogun" kit :). It looks like the kit TRD used to sell >for the Celicas/Supras - the name escapes me at the moment, but it ah ha! Im glad you mentioned the shogun bit .. And if I wasnt in the middle of packing house id dig through my back issues of Sport Compact Car to find the number for a company called Anything Ltd. They retailed the "shogun" kit .. check issues from 2-8 issues back . your sure to find one .. in fact I think they have an advertisers index .. should make the search easy.. Maybe some kind SCC buyer out there can help you by looking? Brett xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: SUPERCHIPS ICON, sounds great To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 13:10:09 -0500 (EST) This Superchips ICON sounds great! Does anyone have any info or experience with it? I really want to know what it will do for a 4AGE along with a TRD header, K&N filtercharger and MSD ignition amp. Is it for real? Or is it a waste of time? Aly, '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Thu, 08 Feb 96 12:20:58 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re[4]: 20R head on 22R Does anyone know the volume of the combustion chambers for both heads (20R & 22R). I thought I read in TPM that they were the same. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Re[2]: 20R head on 22R Author: bwiencek@kcnet.com at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/8/96 10:32 AM That's why the compression ratio increase. The 22R (Early) uses a piston with a Donought or raised ring at the top, increasing the compression. - Brian On Thu, 08 Feb 96, Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil wrote: >My 1977 20R has flat pistons not domed >>>This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >>good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >>and later 22r's. > >Um, wouldn't this be the other way around, that you can't put the >late model 22R head on the earlier block, with the late model head has >the flat combustion chamber and the earlier block has domed pistons? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 08 Feb 1996 10:43:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" >> I think you are talking about the tall deck blocks that were made in 85 >>only. >> there are a lot of specific parts for the year, and in 86 they 'fixed' some >>of >> the problems with the 85 and went back to a lower deck height. >That's not the story that I heard two years ago when I talked a fellow >at TRD (I think that it was RJ) about this very subject. I *think* that >I was told that the taller deck height applied for all 22r blocks 85 1/2 >and later. It seems strange that Toyota would switch back to an old block design after running a new design for only one year. I believe that once they changed the block in 85, it stayed that way. Regarding putting the 20R head on the post 85 22R block, this is possible and is what LC Engineering does. LC Engineering prefers this configuration, although I don't recall exactly why. Give them a call, the person I talked to was relatively informative. I assume that the taller block requires removing a lot of material from the 20R head to maintain the correct cam location and compression ratio. On the order of 0.100 inch, or more. So it probably is not a simple swap. PS. In some of my previous posts, I had stated that the post 85 22R block had a shorter deck height. I got this backwards. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Thu, 08 Feb 96 13:48:55 -0600 Subject: Found Me a '75 20R head to put on my 22R To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I have just found me a '75 20R head to put on my truck, they are looking to see if they still have the intake. (anything Else I need besides head & intake??) Do I need a different adapter plate to hook up a webber? Also according to the post earlier, the best stock valves are the ones I currently have on my '84 22R. Am I correct in assuming that I can just have the valve seats moved out the 1mm to accomidate the valves with no problems? I am planning to keep the Downey Mid range cam I currently have on my 22R (280 dur, 10.67mm lift ~.416in?). Also the post recommended taking 2mm off the block and .100 !!! off the head! is this right .100??? I was going to have it cleaned up with about a .010 or .020 cut, but not .100, unless it will be that much better. Any opinions?? Anyways, I am getting close to assembling what should be a fairly strong 22R and hopefully it'll be good for another 130+k miles :-) Thanks for all of you for your help, - Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 13:49:19 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Re: These Ignition Amps Aly asks: > So the bottom line is: What do the majority of people on this list >believe to be the best ignition amp to go with? I suppose the top choices >would now be the MSD, Accel, or Crane. I have saved the posts from two months ago when Frank Gibbons, Chris Myer (long, detailed), and Brian Zublin addressed this question. Please let me know if you want a copy of this thread. Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 12:53:37 -0700 (MST) From: james collins To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: FX-16 v's AE86 v's Early MR2 maybe this is why AE86's are so prevalent in Japan, they are by far the most common car for people to modify and go race, you see parts for them all over the place, in all the gymkhana events half the field are either Trueno's or Levin's (AE86's in Japan). as far as the old MR2's go, some people modify them but nowhere near as many as the AE86's. just some of my observations. James Collins On Thu, 8 Feb 1996 bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote: > Guy's, > This is just my opinion but I have owned and raced all three cars in Australia > in the standard and modified classes. On radials ( 'R' class tyres)the AE86 IS > king over the AE82 and the MR2 is the SLOWEST!!!!! The reason is,it is that > the MR2 is too heavy and the 86 handles better having almost no vices. > The MR2 has DRAMATIC oversteer at the limit, it is too heavy in the rear. > The 82 is fastest in a straight line and will win on long straight tracks > because it is slightly lighter. If the speed of the circuit exceeds 185Km/hr > down the main straight then 82 will hit an air wall and the MR2 will eventually > pass it. In tight tracks the 82 handles badly because the frame flexes, they > fixed this on the 92 but did it at the expense of weight. For all round work > the 86 is best, followed by MR2 then AE82. Please understand this is my > opinion and these cars may have different weights in the US. However the last > of the 2 litre MR2's just leaves all the other under 2 litre Toyotas for > dead. > Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 14:44:50 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Re: Re[2]: 20R head on 22R >My 1977 20R has flat pistons not domed > >______________________________ Reply Separator >_________________________________ >Subject: Re: 20R head on 22R >Author: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) at INTERNET-HUB >Date: 2/7/96 9:00 PM > >>This subject comes up from time to time and I think that it's probably a >>good idea to remind people that this switch is not possible for 85 1/2 >>and later 22r's. > >Um, wouldn't this be the other way around, that you can't put the >late model 22R head on the earlier block, with the late model head has >the flat combustion chamber and the earlier block has domed pistons? > >Beth, what does Jeff say? > >Chris ___________________ Hi, Just trying to be helpful here by pulling something from my library on this particular thread, adding some detail to what Chris Myer is saying, I believe. Beth, if I may quote your December message, as follows? ... Thank you. Btw, I also have your August post in which Jeff lays out his recommendations--the best years on all the parts, etc.--20R/22R. Anyone want a copy? Or a copy of my whole 20R/22R thread file? Monte ___________________ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 95 8:26:14 -0500 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" Organization: UNC To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: 22R w/20R head article X-mailer: Connect2-SMTP 4.00 MHS to SMTP Gateway Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com Precedence: bulk [snip, snip] Let me try to clarify just a bit. The 22R engine comes with flat top pistons and the bottom of the head is flat also. The 20R engine has dome shaped pistons and the 20R head is designed to accommodate the dome shaped pistons. If you change just the head to a 20R on a post 85 22R motor you will have flat pistons with a head designed for dome shaped pistons. This leaves you with an engine with LESS compression than you had before. To get the maximum benefit from this modification, you must also change to dome top pistons. In this case, you have a 22R block, 20R pistons, and a 20R head which does give you more compression and horsepower than the 22R motor. By just changing the head and nothing else, you would actually be worse off than you were to begin with. Actually, the 20R head is the best flowing head that Toyota has made. To get extremely specific, the 75 20R head is the best. (according to TRD and the late Toy Store). There is a factory stamp on the inside of the front water jacket on these motors. Unfortunately, they and EXTREMELY difficult to find. Beth C. Williams, Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill CB# 2100; 105 Hanes Hall Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 Fax: (919)962-3349 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 09:21:02 +1100 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: Monte Bedford Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: These Ignition Amps Monte, those posts would be worth a look as i am presently trying to find an ignition system for my turbo injected 18RG. Thanks in advance ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Thu, 8 Feb 1996, Monte Bedford wrote: > Aly asks: > > > So the bottom line is: What do the majority of people on this list > >believe to be the best ignition amp to go with? I suppose the top choices > >would now be the MSD, Accel, or Crane. > > I have saved the posts from two months ago when Frank Gibbons, > Chris Myer (long, detailed), and Brian Zublin addressed this question. > Please let me know if you want a copy of this thread. > > Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 19:49:52 -0500 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: LS 400 starter >Mike Dowe questioned where the starter was in a Lexue LS400 > >On the 4.0 Liter V-8 isn't the starter in the valley under the intake >manifold... Correct. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 20:06:05 -0500 (EST) From: Aaron Buhr Subject: Re: intake plumbing and intercooler plumbing [GENERAL] To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , On Thu, 8 Feb 1996, Michael Kronvold wrote: > On the Celica All-Trac Turbos, they have a hood scoop. I was curious while at the dealer and opened the hood and it hit me like a ton of bricks. The intercooler is DIRECTLY under that scoop on top of everything. This sounds like a GREAT way to improve the intercooler efficiency, shorter plumbing (might be some tighter bends tho). How radical would this be to do to a supra? I saw a hood off a '92 the other day for $100... I hope it's still there this weekend. a "spare" intercooler won't be cheap tho. My brother's RX7 Turbo ('87) has the same intercooler arrangement. I don't believe it's that great, since it sits right on top the engine! The engine gets warm, heat rises, the intercooler gets hot, and doesn't cool the air much anymore. Front-mounted intercoolers are the way to go, IMO. But you're right that the longer intake plumbing does have disadvantages. The turbocharger has to compress all the air in the intake system, from the turbo through the piping through the intercooler through the throttle body through the intake manifold finally into the combustion chamber. That does increase both turbo lag and boost spiking. > Oh, Water misted into the combustion process, anyone have and practical knowledge of this? P51 mustangs used to do this so they could run at red line for hours and hours on end. Spearco makes intercoolers and water sprayers. They have a "Turbo Water Injection System": Now, from Spearco, the water injection experts, a water injection system designed specifically for factory turbo cars. This system reduces air charge temperature on turbocharged engines, with or without intercoolers, and increases air density resulting in additional horsepower and torque. On engines equipped with detonation sensor controlled ignition systems it will maintain maximum spark advance even on low octane fuels. Features include: - Compact .4 gallon aluminum reservoir with three mounting positions for universal placement in the engine compartment. - Injects water upstream or downstream of the turbo - Pump is controlled by an adjustable, O.E. quality pressure switch - Kit includes 3 different size, specially designed injection nozzles Part number 980 Turbo Water Inject System: $146.00 They also sell the "Intercooler Optimizer - Spray Cooling System for Intercoolers". This system has a .95 gallon tank, they claim an intercooler performance improvement of 25%-35%, 45 degrees to 65 degrees F. It uses a 12V pump & motor to supply 19 psi water to a wide angle spray nozzle. They're triggered by a boost pressure switch. Kit includes instructions and one of four different nozzle mount methods. Price: $120. BTW, I had the carburetor recall and a carburetor overhaul performed on my 4AC '87 Corolla. It cost more than I wanted to spend, $280, but the car runs a LOT better now, almost perfectly (tiny bit of hesitation when the engine's cold). Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 13:16:45 +1100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Jacobs Energy Pak & stuff. Hiya Guys & Gals, With all the kefufle over the Jacobs ignition box I couldn't resist mentioning a device that was sold here a few years ago that was rather embaressing for certain people ...... One of Australia's top racing car drivers is 'Peter Brock', and unfortunately for him he became involved with a 'new-age scientist'. The end result was that during race meetings Peter's wife was waving a crystal she wore around her neck over all the tyres, etc that were due to go onto the race car during the race, and all of Peter's cars had a 'new-age' (Not 4age!) device sitting on the back shelf called an 'Energy Polariser' The gadget was supposed to 'align the molecules of the metals' or some such bullsh*t to make everything run smoother and without vibration, etc. He actually sold these things to the public, and people actually bought them ..... (There's one born every minute!) A current affairs team (news reporters) bought one of these 'Energy Polarisers' and opened it up - it was full of green jelly, a couple of bits of copper wire, and some other crap that I can't remember. A short time after that his major sponsor, General Motor Holden, dropped him from a great height. He's back with them now, but I have a sneaky suspicion that his contract forbids things like, "full moon, bats wings, black cats, and F**KING ENERGY POLARISERS ......" :) Hehehehehe. Bruce Connelly might remember more than I do about that period, so if you read this Bruce please add your bit. (of dirt ;) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: SUPERCHIPS To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 21:57:52 -0500 (EST) Hey everyone, I just got off the phone with the Peter at Superchips. I spoke to him about the Superchips Icon for the MK1 MR2 4AGE. Here's what he said: 4-wire hookup with directions included ICON works with timing only, regular superchips can do other adjustments About 12 Horsepower claimed increase Retail price: $295 If anyone has any experience with this product or any thoughts, please comment. Thanks, Aly, '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 14:35:42 +1100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Water injection for turbo's. Hiya, Aaron Buhr wrote - >> Oh, Water misted into the combustion process, anyone have and practical knowledge of this? P51 mustangs used to do this so they could run at red line for hours and hours on end. I do have some experience in this area. _Sort of_. The aircraft I fly at the moment is a Swearengine Metro 2 with Garret TPE-331 (-3 & -10 versions), and it is equiped with water/methanol injection. The water/meth is used to increase power on takeoff on short runways where the plane is heavy and/or the day is hot. (or the pilot is nervous! :) To give you some actual figures, when I turn on the water/meth system at 800 ft/lbs torque (That is how power is measured on Metro's), the _least_ increase in power I've seen is 250 ft/lbs, ie, about a 30% increase in power. That was on a hot (38 deg C) day with the injection system giving it's minimum specified flow rate. I have also seen the water/meth injection system on another plane (this one spends its life in the Australian desert, so it has the injection pumps turned right up to give maximum boost) do some amazing things - The outside air temp was down around 15 deg C, and when I hit the water the torques jumped up from 800 ft/lbs to about 1500 ft/lbs! - an 87% increase!! (Probably damn near put the fire out, too. ;) I think there are two reasons for the big difference in power increases - 1. The difference in pump outputs, as I described above, and 2. Ambient temperature. From my somewhat incomplete understanding of physics, I feel that the water/meth would 'absorb' more energy (heat) from the incoming air if the air was cold, and vice-versa. The water/meth is mixed in a ratio of anywhere from 40/60 to 60/40, but 50/50 should be fine. The reason for the methanol is two fold. At the altitudes we fly, it is possible for the 16 US gallon tank that holds the water/meth to start to freeze, so the methanol is added to reduce the freezing point of the fluid. The other reason, I am told, is because the methanol does most of the work in increasing the power - the water & methanol cools the air and the methanol adds the power. (I have heard of a Metro in Mexico that was low on water/meth, so the crew added AVGAS (aircraft fuel) to the tank. They turned the system on, and apparently two HUGE flames came out of the back of the engines and nearly burnt the tail off!!! Heheheh, but I digress ....) To give possible proof that the methanol does most of the work, when I fly through rain the temperatures in the engines will drop, eg, from 520 deg C down to perhaps 480 deg C, so if this was a steady state then I could simply push the throttle up so the temps were back up to normal and therefore increase the torques above what they used to be. (The torques don't change much in rain...) So this means that water just reduces the temps, but doesn't change the power that much - you have to increase the fuel flow to get a usefull benefit. This benefit is acheived by simply adding methanol. "Don't try this at home without parental supervision!" And I mean it! Methanol is a carcenogen - it can give you cancer with prolonged exposure to the skin! So be careful if you try it. How much to add? I've had discussions on this with Matti Kalalahti, in Finland, and we figure that the Metro is using water/meth at about the same rate as the engine is burning fuel. (The Metro sucks about 900 litres of fuel an hour on takeoff - 240 US gall/hr!) So if you can figure out how much fuel you use under full load, then I'd start adding the water/meth at about half that rate and build it up from there until the performance increase isn't noticable. (Try it on hot/cold days, too) Why haven't I tried it? My 3TG rally car is still in bits, but it IS getting water/meth injection added. I may also add a water spray for the intercooler - I believe that there are useful benefits to be had there. (Have you seen the adds for the 'magic meat defrosting trays'? They are just a bit of aluminium painted black! Get an ice cube and put it on a thick chunk of alloy and whatch it disapear quicker than on one of those supposed 'magic' trays! The point is that alloy conducts heat like you wouldn't believe ....) Hope this has been of interest, Billzilla ..... Grrrrrrr..... P.S. I don't think the P-51 could runs at red-line for hours & hours for two reasons - like most fighters it hasn't got enough fuel, and from memory the Allisons they used had a 'Combat Power' setting that could be (ab)used for a limit of 5 minutes. :) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Jacobs Energy Pak & stuff. Date: Fri, 09 Feb 96 14:36:38 +1100 From: Peter Mejak >A current affairs team (news >reporters) bought one of these 'Energy Polarisers' and opened it up - it was >full of green jelly, a couple of bits of copper wire, and some other crap >that I can't remember. They also did a before/after test drive of a car fitted with one of these devices (by local car "guru" Peter Wherrett). Found no appreciable difference between the same car when fitted or not fitted with the device. Funny 'bout that ...... Strange thing is, I think the VL's sold with this device now command higher prices than normal due to the controversy it created. Or else they sell for less for the same reason :-) (can't remember which). Cheers, Peter. ====================================================== Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia peterm@aus.hp.com ====================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 22:16:48 -0600 (CST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@iadfw.net (Bryan Carlson) Subject: me/mine/mods Name :Bryan Carlson Location :Dallas Texas Model :1991 Toyota MR2 turbo Engine :3s-gte (?that is correct I believe) Mods :I have just purchased the car so nothing yet email :minkor19@iadfw.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: bfraser@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Starlet (body kits) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 96 23:20:03 PST Thanks Brett!!! I'll take a look at the ads in scc. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 08:16:54 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Don't hate me just because... ...I have a (faxed) copy of the TRD Japan catalog, MR2 section! (Look at Geoff Seeley and the other MR2 gurus drooling! I feel like an attractive girl at a tailhook convention! I hope my virtue isn't compromised!) 3 subsections--Street, Gymkhana, and Race. 17 pages, just for this one car. Everything right down to roll bars, pedal covers, steering wheels...Wait, what's this? A TEMS-style electronically adjustable suspension setup? Ooohhhhh! Prices still in Yen, need to do a little bit of translation. I am having the Cusco (sp?) catalog sent too. Soon I'll have the HKS master catalog. With a prayer, maybe even the GReddy Master catalog. More soon... Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 09:13:52 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) Subject: Re: Starlet (body kits) >Maybe some kind SCC buyer out there can help you by looking? Hey Gary, they number to Anything Ltd. is (310) 477-7803 or 1-800-445-4048. Hope this helps. -frederick. '85 Celica GTS Convertible "CULTURE" xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 9:20:18 -0500 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: My .02 on the 20R head/22R block mod (long) Ok guys, I think I have enough of my info together to add my comments to this thread. Here goes--- First let me start off with some general info about some comments have been made throughout this most recent thread. Yes, Chris was right when he said you couldn't put the late model 22R head on the earlier block, since the late model head has the flat combustion chamber and the earlier block has domed pistons. But, a 20R head may be put on any 22R block regardless of year, it just depends on how much work and money you want to put into the project. I'll use my particular truck for example. I have an 85 4x4 (Fuel Injected, SR5). It is currently set up with the following: - 81 22R block (with 2mm taken off) - 75 20R head (with .100 taken off) - 81 22R pistons (domed top) - 77 complete timing kit - 85 valves with 5 angle valve job, new valve seats and bronze racing guides (also the back side of valves are polished - 22R head gasket -85 EFI stock cam -85 EFI We had to modify the head to make it work with my fuel injection. We did this mainly because I already had the fuel injection and I didn't want to spend the additional money for carbs. I think this engine is a good example of what can be done, again depending on your willingness to experiment and the depth of your pocketbook. Also FYI, it is equipped with dual Flowmaster exhaust and the catalyc (sp?) converter has been gutted with a pipe running straight through. You may not want to go for this mod unless you have inside track in getting inspections. Anyway some more comments. Actually the blocks that were manufactured through 8/84 are the taller blocks. The ones manufactured after that are SHORTER. You can compare the timing chain from each year to see the difference. Thus comes the recommendation to shave 2mm off the earlier model block. Another thing to consider, if you have a 22R carbureted engine, the fuel pump may or may not the on the side of the head. If your fuel pump is on the side of the head, you have to find a 20R that also has the fuel pump on the side of the head. (This is not very hard, just something else to look for.) I also wanted to answer some of Brian's specific questions about his project. >I have just found me a '75 20R head to put on my truck, they are looking to see >if they still have the intake. (anything Else I need besides head & intake??) You don't need the intake from the 20R, use your 22R intake and port the head to match. >Do I need a different adapter plate to hook up a webber? Yes, you do need an adapter plate. > Also according to the post earlier, the best stock valves are the ones I currently have on my '84 22R. >Am I correct in assuming that I can just have the valve seats moved out the 1mm >to accommodate the valves with no problems? You don't need to "move" the valve seats, port the head around the valves and intake to accommodate the larger valves. > I am planning to keep the Downey Midrange cam I currently have on my 22R (280 dur, 10.67mm lift >~.416in?). This cam will work. You will need an adjustable cam gear to correct your timing. >Also the post recommended taking 2mm off the block and .100 !!! off the head! is this >right .100??? I was going to have it cleaned up with about a .010 or .020 cut, >but not .100, unless it will be that much better. What year is your block? If you have a block made after 8/84, you don't necessarily have to take the 2mm off, if the block is from before 8/84 taking the 2mm off will make it the same height as the newer model. There are some more questions you have to ask also regarding the amount to shave off. 1) has the head ever been cut before? You have to remember that the more you cut off now, the less you will have to play with later if you ever blow the head gasket and warp the head and need to shave off to straighten it back out. Also, you need to set the head on the engine and turn it over by hand to make sure that the pistons will not hit the head before you put it all back together. The more you shave off of both (or either of these) these increases the likelihood that the pistons will hit. My truck does not hit, but is is very close. The .100 off the head will make a significant difference, that is what Jeff usually has his machine shop do for his performance rebuilds. It is just a matter of finding the happy medium between not having the pistons hit and getting the maximum compression out of the engine. Also, I need to redeem myself, Jeff told me last night that I was incorrect in my December post that Monte reposted yesterday. I said that for maximum benefit, use a 22R block, 20R pistons, and 20R head. That should be older model 22R pistons instead of 20R pistons. I think that is all for now. If anyone has any questions, or needs further info, just let me know. I will try to answer, or put you in touch with Jeff who, as he put it last night, "could write a book on 20 and 22R's". I wonder if that was a hint Chris? Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 09:52:51 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 22R pistons >- 81 22R pistons (domed top) Now that Beth has gratiously given us her and Jeff's knowledge, forgive my mech. ignorance here BUT I was looking at the cost of a new set of 81 22R pistons and was AMAZED at the high cost and was wondering if it were possible to use "used" pistons in my motor, a friend of mine say no I can't. Is he correct ?? If so, enlighten me and explain to me why not so that just maybe I won't be as stupid tommorrow as I was when I woke up today ! thanks ... - jack xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 11:36:39 -0500 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 22R pistons We use used pistons all the time (especially for just regular rebuilds). The pistons that are in my truck were used. I would think it would be ok as long as you couldn't see something wrong with them. Now if they are scarred or bent or something like that, then Jeff will make them buy a new piston. Any other experiences out there?? Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: est. horsepower Date: Fri, 9 Feb 96 10:58:26 PST Does anyone have a chart or formula for estimating the hp of a car at a given speed. In particular, top speed and horse power. It doesn't have to be exact as I know there are various variables that can be taken into account for losses and such. Thanks, Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 22R pistons Date: Fri, 9 Feb 96 11:02:35 PST From: toy4x4@ro.com >>- 81 22R pistons (domed top) > >Now that Beth has gratiously given us her and Jeff's knowledge, >forgive my mech. ignorance here BUT I was looking at the cost >of a new set of 81 22R pistons and was AMAZED at the high >cost and was wondering if it were possible to use "used" pistons >in my motor, a friend of mine say no I can't. Is he correct ?? Why? People use used pistons all the time. Of course it would be much better to use new ones. As long as the pistons look sound, then it should be no problems. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 96 11:02:37 PST From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca (Geoff Seeley) To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Don't hate me just because... > ...I have a (faxed) copy of the TRD Japan catalog, MR2 section! > (Look at Geoff Seeley and the other MR2 gurus drooling! I feel like an > attractive girl at a tailhook convention! I hope my virtue isn't > compromised!) I believe I already have a copy of this (heaven forbid I don't have every *shread* of MR2 related material on this planet :-) Kostas Chryssos (Greece) was kind enough to scan me the catalog but I haven't put it on the MR2 Web site due to space limitations... I have however, gone through each page and pulled out all the information I could. If people want, I could post it tonight. > 3 subsections--Street, Gymkhana, and Race. 17 pages, just for this one > car. Everything right down to roll bars, pedal covers, steering > wheels...Wait, what's this? A TEMS-style electronically adjustable > suspension setup? Ooohhhhh! Yes, and don't forget the fuel cells and special ECU's, etc!! > Prices still in Yen, need to do a little bit of translation. I am having > the Cusco (sp?) catalog sent too. Soon I'll have the HKS master catalog. > With a prayer, maybe even the GReddy Master catalog. _Now_ I'm drooling again! :-) There are all sorts of MR2 items only sold in Japan, dual exhaust systems, aero-kits, neat air-intake funnels, etc... NOW what we need is a contact in Japan that can GET US this sort of stuff!!! Speak any Japanese Chris?? :-) Geoff '91 MR2t, 163,800km xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Fri, 09 Feb 96 15:15:37 CST To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re[2]: 22R pistons Just be sure to check the clearances according to the manual. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: 22R pistons Author: Gary Hong at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/9/96 11:02 AM From: toy4x4@ro.com >>- 81 22R pistons (domed top) > >Now that Beth has gratiously given us her and Jeff's knowledge, >forgive my mech. ignorance here BUT I was looking at the cost >of a new set of 81 22R pistons and was AMAZED at the high >cost and was wondering if it were possible to use "used" pistons >in my motor, a friend of mine say no I can't. Is he correct ?? Why? People use used pistons all the time. Of course it would be much better to use new ones. As long as the pistons look sound, then it should be no problems. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Fri, 09 Feb 96 15:29:22 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: est. horsepower This web page has the formula for the aero and friction hp and many other auto and EFI info. There is also a page dedicated to EFI http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/aero.html ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: est. horsepower Author: Gary Hong at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/9/96 10:58 AM Does anyone have a chart or formula for estimating the hp of a car at a given speed. In particular, top speed and horse power. It doesn't have to be exact as I know there are various variables that can be taken into account for losses and such. Thanks, Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 15:37:51 -0800 (PST) From: Danny Yoo Subject: Re: est. horsepower To: Gary Hong Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Fri, 9 Feb 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > Does anyone have a chart or formula for estimating the hp of a car at a > given speed. In particular, top speed and horse power. It doesn't have > to be exact as I know there are various variables that can be taken into > account for losses and such. > > Thanks, > Gary > Go to http://www.dsm.org (Talon Web Page) They have a little thing where you enter vehicle weight and trap speed OR 1/4 mile time to estimate HP. ------ Danny Yoo ,%"`^`"%,._.,%"`^`"%,._.,%"`^`"%,._.,%"`^`"%, >>dannyyoo@freenet.vancouver.bc.ca<< >>dannyyoo@unix.infoserve.net<< "%.,_,.%"^`^"%.,_,.%"^`^"%.,_,.%"^`^"%.,_,.%" xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: TRD Japan's MR2 (SW20) Parts List (1993.6) From: geoff@softwords.bc.ca (Geoff Seeley) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 96 20:15:51 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Here's my transcribed list from the TRD Japan's 1993 catalog (Perhaps you have a later version Chris? If you do, send me a copy please!). I can guarantee it's perfect and I didn't include the prices, but all other information I could gleem from it is in there. There is some really neat stuff in this list so if anyone has any contacts in Japan, then speak up! PS. This list will appear on the MR2 Web site in the near future. PPS. This list is formatted for more than 80 columns, so resize your window :-) Geoff '91 MR2t, 163,900km --- cut here --- ------------------------------------------- TRD Sports Parts: SW20 - Toyota MR2, 1993.6 ------------------------------------------- Glove: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 08795-SP006-M/L Trial Glove (RED) 2 - 08795-SP007-M/L Trial Glove (BLUE) 2 - 08795-SP008-M/L Racing Glove (RED) 2 FIA 08795-SP009-M/L Racing Glove (BLUE) 2 FIA Steering: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 45111-SP161 Wheel, steering 1 360mm, Type-C 45111-SP171 Wheel, steering 1 360mm, Type-C 45111-SP181 Wheel, steering 1 360mm, Type-C 45113-SP001 Hub, steering 1 - 45131-SP001 Button, horn 1 Type-C Switch: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 80403-SP001-15 Switch, circuit breaker - 15A 80403-SP001-20 Switch, circuit breaker - 20A 80403-SP001-25 Switch, circuit breaker - 25A 80404-SP001 Switch, breaker - (ON-ON) 80405-SP001 Cover, switch - 80404-SP001 00250-SP026 Relay, circuit breaker - 12V 200A 84480-SP001 Switch Assy, main - (ON-ON) DC30V 30A 84450-SP001 Switch Assy, ignition - (ON-OFF) DC30V 25A 84650-SP001 Switch Assy, windshield wiper - (ON-ON) DC30V 25A 84310-14010 Switch Assy, turn signal - (ON-OFF-ON) DC30V 25A 84510-SP001 Switch Assy, starter - (ON-OFF-ON) DC30V 20A 80407-AE901 Switch Kit, circuit breaker 1 - Gauge: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 83270-SP021 Tachometer Assy, engine 1 - 83410-SP011 Gauge Assy, water temp. receivr 1 - 83580-SP011 Gauge Assy, oil temp. receiver 1 - 83420-16010 Gauge Assy, temp. sender 1 83410-SP011, 83580-SP011, M16x1.5 83420-16020 Gauge Assy, temp. sender 1 83410-SP011, 83580-SP011, PT1/8 83510-SP011 Gauge Assy, oil press. receiver 1 - 00250-SP015 Fitting Set, oil pressure - - Wheel: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 42610-SP011 Size: 15 x 6.5 JJ, Offset: 35 - PCD=114.3, Hub Size=60, Holes=5, SW20(F) 42610-SP012 Size: 15 x 7.5 JJ, Offset: 35 - PCD=114.3, Hub Size=60, Holes=5, SW20(R) 42610-SP021 Size: 16 x 7 JJ, Offset: 34 - PCD=114.3, Hub Size=60, Holes=5, SW20(F) 42610-SP024 Size: 16 x 8 JJ, Offset: 37 - PCD=114.3, Hub Size=60, Holes=5, SW20(R) Wheel Spare Parts: 42621-SP001 Nut, Center Cap - - 42624-SP001 Ring, Wheel Cap, Plate - - 42680-SP001 Valve Assy, Air - - 09183-SP001 Wrench, Wheel Cap - - 42638-SP011 Nut, Hub - - Cylinder Head/Gasket: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 11115-ST651 Gasket, cylinder head 1 t=1.2 Metal, 3S-GTE 11115-SW201 Gasket, cylinder head 1 t=0.8 Metal, 3S-GE Fuel: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 00001-SP045 Fuel tank 1 30 l, ATLSU108 23100-SP011 Pump Assy, fuel 1 0.3kg/cm^2 23210-SP001 Pump Assy, fuel 1 2.55kg/cm^2 23300-SP011 Filter Assy, fuel 1 - 00250-SP052 Collector tank, fuel 1 1 l 44730-10010 Check valve 1 - 00001-EO400-06 Hose 8 - 95333-08060 Hose 1 - 00250-SP038 Breather Hose 1 - 00001-E9815-06 Union 1 - 20302-ST651 Union 1 - 90430-12026 Gasket 2 - 90460-18002 Hose clamp 5 - 00001-E8001-06 Hose end 4 0 degree 00001-E8045-06 Hose end 2 45 degree 00001-E8090-06 Hose end 8 90 degree 00001-E7001-06 Hose end 1 0 degree 00001-E7091-06 Hose end 1 - Insulator: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 12361-SW211 Insulator, engine mounting FR 1 3S-GE 12361-SW201 Insulator, engine mounting FR 1 3S-GTE 12362-SW211 Insulator, engine mounting RH 1 3S-GE 12362-SW201 Insulator, engine mounting RH 1 3S-GTE 12371-SW211 Insulator, engine mounting RR 1 3S-GE 12371-SW201 Insulator, engine mounting RR 1 3S-GTE 12372-SW211 Insulator, engine mounting FR 1 3S-GE 12372-SW201 Insulator, engine mounting FR 1 3S-GTE 10210-SW211 Engine mounting set 1 3S-GE 10210-SW201 Engine mounting set 1 3S-GTE Ignition: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 10901-SP032-22 Plug, spark 4 K-22 10901-SP032-24 Plug, spark 4 K-24 10901-SP041-27 Plug, spark 4 K-27 10901-SP041-29 Plug, spark 4 K-29 10901-SP041-31 Plug, spark 4 K-31 Engine Control Unit: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 89660-SP051 Computer, engine control 1 - 80901-SP001 Software set (3.5inch) 1 EP-ROM DATA 80901-SP002 Software set (5inch) 1 EP-ROM DATA 80902-SP001 EP-ROM 1 82233-SW201 Wire, computer 1 91.12~ 82233-SW202 Wire, computer 1 89.10~91.12 Exhaust: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 17510-AE801-## Silencer, exhaust 2 - 17400-SW201 Pipe Set, exhaust 1 - Clutch: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 31210-ST851 Cover Assy, clutch 1 3S-GE, 710kg 31250-ST851 Disc Assy, clutch 1 3S-GE, Sports Facing Type 31250-ST862 Disc Assy, clutch 1 3S-GE, Metal Facing Type 31210-SW251 Cover Assy, clutch 1 3S-GTE, 950kg 31250-SW251 Disc Assy, clutch 1 3S-GTE, Sports Facing Type 31250-SWB62 Disc Assy, clutch 1 3S-GTE, Metal Facing Type 31250-SWA61 Disc Assy, clutch 1 3S-GTE, Metal Facing Type Differential: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 41301-ST801 Case Sub-Assy Diff, LSD 1 3S-GE 41301-SW202 Case Sub-Assy Diff, LSD 1 3S-GTE (89.10~91.12) 41301-SW211 Case Sub-Assy Diff, LSD 1 3S-GTE (91.12~) 40101-AW101 Shim 1 t=0.1, 3S-GE(41301-ST801) 40101-AW102 Shim 1 t=0.2, 3S-GE(41301-ST801) 40107-AW101 Repair Kit, LSD 1 3S-GE(41301-ST801) 40101-SW201 Shim 1 t=0.1, 3S-GTE(41301-SW202, SW211) 40107-AW111 Repair Kit, LSD 1 3S-GTE(41301-SW202, SW211) Shock Absorber: SW20 (91.12~) F R ------------------------ 3S-GE 152/27 198/41 3S-GTE 140/40 220/45 Street: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 48511-SW292 Front, Lmax=516.5mm, Lmin=355.5mm, 152/52kg, 15.8 2 (89.10~91.12) 48531-SW292 Rear, Lmax=553mm, Lmin=373mm, 200/72kg, 15.8 2 (89.10~91.12) Gymkhana: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 48531-SW282 Rear, Lmax=531mm, Lmin=375mm, 250/80kg, 20.5 2 - 48511-SW261 Front, Lmax=518mm, Lmin=357.5mm, 160/60kg, 20.0 2 (89.10~91.12) 48531-SW261 Rear, Lmax=553mm, Lmin=397mm, 260/95kg, 24.0 2 (89.10~91.12) 48511-SW262 Front, Lmax=505mm, Lmin=375mm, 210/45kg, 20.0 2 - 48531-SW262 Rear, Lmax=530mm, Lmin=397mm, 275/70kg, 25.0 2 - Shell Case: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 48021-SW251 Front RH 1 91.1~ 48029-SW251 Front LH 1 91.1~ 48508-SW251 Rear RH 1 91.1~ 48509-SW251 Rear LH 1 91.1~ Coil Spring: SW20 (kg/m) (91.12~) F R -------------------- 3S-GE 2.3 3.6 3S-GTE 2.5 3.8 Gymkhana: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 48131-SW261-28 Front 2 K=2.8, 89.10~91.12 48231-SW261-50 Rear 2 K-5.0, 89.10~91.12 48131-SW251-30 Front 2 K=3.0, 91.12~ 48231-SW251-58 Front 2 K=5.8, 91.12~ 48131-SW211 Front 2 K=3.0, 20mm 48231-SW211 Rear 2 K=4.8, 15mm Adjustable Height System Shock Absorber: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 48510-SW233 Front RH 1 Lmax=375mm,Lmin=250mm,340/110kg 48520-SW233 Front LH 1 Lmax=375mm,Lmin=250mm,340/110kg 48530-SW232 Rear RH 1 Lmax=450mm,Lmin=320mm,410/110kg 48540-SW232 Rear LH 1 Lmax=450mm,Lmin=320mm,410/110kg Coil Spring: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 48131-SP012-06 Spring, coil 2 K=6.0,l=143.5,70,860 48131-SP012-07 Spring, coil 2 K=7.0,l=138.5,70,880 48131-SP012-08 Spring, coil 2 K=8.0,l=135.0,70,920 48131-SP012-10 Spring, coil 2 K=10.0,l=130.0,70,1010 48131-SP012-12 Spring, coil 2 K=12.0,l=126.0,70,1130 48131-SP012-14 Spring, coil 2 K=14.0,l=124.5,70,1240 48131-SP012-16 Spring, coil 2 K=16.0,l=122.5,70,1030 48131-SP012-18 Spring, coil 2 K=18.0,l=121.0,75,1210 48131-SP012-20 Spring, coil 2 K=20.0,l=120.0,75,1300 48131-SP012-22 Spring, coil 2 K=22.0,l=119.0,75,1350 48131-SP012-25 Spring, coil 2 K=25.0,l=118.0,80,1210 48131-SP012-28 Spring, coil 2 K=28.0,l=117.0,80,1320 48680-SW201 Support assy, front suspension 2 Front 48471-SP013 Seat, spring upper 2 Front 48472-SP011-55 Seat, spring lower 2 Front, M55x2 40815-SP011-55 Retainer, spring lower seat 2 Front, M55x2 48830-17030 Link assy, FR stabilizer 2 - 48750-SW251 Support assy, rear suspension 2 Rear 40846-SP001 Spacer, spring seat rear 2 Rear 48044-SP011 Seat, spring upper 2 Rear 48472-SP011-55 Seat, spring lower 2 M55x2 40815-SP011-55 Retainer, spring lower seat 2 M55x2 Bushing: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 48609-SW251 Support assy, front suspension 2 - 48750-SW251 Support assy, rear suspension 2 - 48654-SW251 Bush, front suspension lower arm 2 89.10~91.12 48654-AEA51 Bush, front suspension lower arm 2 91.12~ 48674-SW251 Cushion, strut bar front 4 89.10~91.12 48674-SW261 Cushion, strut bar front 2 91.12 48715-SW251 Bush, rear strut rod 2 - 48725-SW251 Bush, rear suspension arm No.1 2 - 48787-SW251 Cushion, strut bar rear 4 - Suspension Bushing Set: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 40862-SW251 Suspension bush set 1 89.10~91.12 40862-SW261 Suspension bush set 1 91.12~ Brake Pad: 89.10~91.12: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 04491-SW201 Pad, brake front 1 DS-11 04492-AW101 1 DS-11 04492-AW151 Pad, brake rear 1 3410F 04492-SW261 1 SP2 91.12~: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 04491-AE001 1 DS-11 04491-SW261 Pad, brake front 1 SP2 04492-AW101 1 DS-11 04492-AW151 Pad, brake rear 1 3410F 04492-SW261 1 SP2 Brake Hose: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 40709-SW252 Hose set, brake 1 - Body Parts: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 68111-SW202 Acrylic Glass, front window RH 1 t=5.0 68112-SW202 Acrylic Glass, front window LH 1 t=5.0 00001-SP017 Pin, hood lock 2 - 00250-SP014 Strap, hood lock 1 - 00001-SP046 Fire extinguisher - Halon Gas 80407-AE901 Switch kit, circuit breaker 1 - Roll Bar: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 61190-SW201 Roll Bar Set 1 40.20mm Seat: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 71100-SP002-01 Seat assy, driver side 1 Black/Grey 71100-SP002-02 Seat assy, driver side 1 Stripe 71100-TA001 Seat assy, driver side 1 Yellow 71100-TA001-A Seat assy, driver side 1 Black 71110-SW251 Rail assy, driver seat 1 Seat Belt: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 00001-SP052 Seat Belt 1 4 points, Made by Sabelt 00001-SP034 Supporting Belt 1 00001-SP0521 Shift Knob: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 33504-SP002 Knob sub-assy, shift lever 1 M12x1.25 Transport Hook: Part Number Description Qty. Remarks ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ 51960-SP002 Transport Hook, FR 1 N2 51960-SP001 Transport Hook, RR 1 N2 --- cut here --- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 96 18:30:13 PST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Brett Fraser Subject: Yeesh .. helloo bad luck.. It would seem me and mine just cant keep our cars on the road, but in the very least we solved my roomies rev'ing problems in his 87 MR2 NA.. (I wrote my car off a month ago, my brother last week, and my roomie today) He was doing 50kmh along a straight dry stretch of road on a nice warm (-1?0Cel) day .. car in front and in behind .. hit some black ice .. started doin 360's rear end hit a ditch, car flipped and slid along on the roof .. He now owns the first convertable Mr2 .. amazingly enough he walked away .. swearing like hell .. but walked away, the paramedics were amazed.. I hope this streak of bad luck ends before I fly off on the 21st.. Brett "ah hell, here we go again" Fraser xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 20:11:34 -0800 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Re: Don't hate me just because... To: geoff@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Geoff Seeley) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com You wrote: > >> ...I have a (faxed) copy of the TRD Japan catalog, MR2 section! >> (Look at Geoff Seeley and the other MR2 gurus drooling! I feel like an >> attractive girl at a tailhook convention! I hope my virtue isn't >> compromised!) > >I believe I already have a copy of this (heaven forbid I don't have every >*shread* of MR2 related material on this planet :-) > >Kostas Chryssos (Greece) was kind enough to scan me the catalog but I haven't >put it on the MR2 Web site due to space limitations... I have however, gone >through each page and pulled out all the information I could. If people want, >I could post it tonight. > >> 3 subsections--Street, Gymkhana, and Race. 17 pages, just for this one >> car. Everything right down to roll bars, pedal covers, steering >> wheels...Wait, what's this? A TEMS-style electronically adjustable >> suspension setup? Ooohhhhh! > >Yes, and don't forget the fuel cells and special ECU's, etc!! > >> Prices still in Yen, need to do a little bit of translation. I am having >> the Cusco (sp?) catalog sent too. Soon I'll have the HKS master catalog. >> With a prayer, maybe even the GReddy Master catalog. > >_Now_ I'm drooling again! :-) There are all sorts of MR2 items only sold in >Japan, dual exhaust systems, aero-kits, neat air-intake funnels, etc... > >NOW what we need is a contact in Japan that can GET US this sort of stuff!!! >Speak any Japanese Chris?? :-) > >Geoff >'91 MR2t, 163,800km > If you are nice and give ma a copy of the MR-2 stuff I'll contact my friend that is going to school in Japan and see what he can do for me. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: TRD Japan Catalog To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 00:12:44 -0500 (EST) Chris, I just wanted to know if this catalog that sounds great is for MK1 MR2's also, and if so, what kind of things are available ? Thanks, Aly, '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 23:22:26 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford) Subject: Gymkhana What is Gymkhana ?? it's not a new martial arts movie involving MR2's is it ;-) !! Inquiring mind wants to know .. - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com --> Decatur, AL xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 21:36:34 -0800 Subject: OR & S. WA Auto-x/Hillclimb/Track - Playday Schedules for 1996 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, If interested, E-mail me for the schedule of events for the 1996 Oregon and Southern Washington area SCCA, EESCC, PCA, PMC, BMWCCA, & SSCC motorsports clubs. Hill climb schedule too! Lots going on! Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 22:13:54 -0800 Subject: Re: Gymkhana To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Jack Alford), On Fri, 9 Feb 1996, toy4x4@ro.com (Jack Alford) wrote: >What is Gymkhana ?? it's not a new martial arts movie >involving MR2's is it ;-) !! Inquiring mind wants to know .. > If I remember right, it's like a drag race through a slalom. I have never seen one nor do I know of any clubs running them. Auto-x seems to be much more popular. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 15:19:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Address for Classic Motorbooks To: kronvold Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" , >>> My brother is looking for textbooks on engine theories and design. >>There is a two volume set on the internal combustion engine. I don't recall >>the title, but it is pretty technical. Check in the Motorbooks >>International catalog. > sounds great! never heard of it... Where do I get the motorbooks > int'l catalog? I was mistaken on the name of the company. It is actually Classic Motorbooks. The address is: Classic Motorbooks P.O. Box 1 Osceola, WI 54020 1-800-826-6600 I believe that the address for the SAE was already posted. Bryan Zublin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 16:12:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: 20R/22R/22RTE cylinder head info To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Here is some data that I measured on the 20R head, 22R head (pre-1985) and the 22RTE head (circa 1986). All heads are stock (not modified). Measured 07 and 08-Mar-1990. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com HEAD THICKNESS Measured from the surface that the valve cover sits on and the bottom surface of the head. Multiple measurements were made at different locations. 20R = 100.00 to 100.10 mm. 22R (pre 1985) = 99.99 to 100.08 mm. 22RTE = 96.0 to 96.15 mm. Based on the measurements, the difference in head thickness between the 20R/22R(pre 1985) heads and the 22RTE/22R(post 1985) heads is 4 mm (0.157 inch). It is assumed that the 22RTE head is the same as all post 1985 22R heads. CAM LOCATION (vertical) To get an idea of the center line location of the cam with respect to the bottom surface of the head, the distance from the bottom of the head to the bottom of the "half moon" cutout was measured. The "half moon" cutout is on the front (and rear) portion of the head. This feature was chosen since it is easy to measure, and it was assumed that this feature relative to the cam center line is constant (visual inspection). Note that the actual cam center line location was NOT measured. 20R = approx. 81 mm. 22R (pre 1985) = approx. 81 mm. 22RTE = approx. 77 mm. Note that the difference between the 20R/22R(pre 1985) and 22RET head is 4 mm, which is the same as the difference between the head thickness (see above). This implies that the location of the cam center line with respect to the other features of the head (except bottom surface) was not altered. In other words, all 4 mm were moved from the bottom surface of the head. COMBUSTION CHAMBER VOLUME The combustion chamber volume of the cylinder head was measured by placing a flat piece of plexiglass over the combustion chamber (with the head upside down) and filling the space with water (through a small hole in the plexiglass. The volume of the liquid required to fill the space was measured with a graduated cylinder. The valves and spark plug were installed. All measurements were performed on the number 4 chamber. 20R = 82 cc (meas. error = +0/-2 cc) 22R (pre 1985) = 85 cc (meas. error = +1/-1 cc) 22RTE = 60.5 cc (meas error = +1/- 2 cc) VALVE HEAD DIAMETER 20R: Intake = 42.98 mm; Exhaust = 36.10 mm. 22R (pre 1985): Intake = 45.06 mm; Exhaust = 37.05 mm. 22RTE: Intake = 45.07 mm; Exhaust = 37.06 mm. Conclusion: 22R is larger than 20R; all 22Rs regardless of year are probably the same. Materials may be different for the 22RTE (high temp exhaust). VALVE STEM DIAMETER 20R: Intake = 7.97 mm; Exhaust = 7.97 mm. 22R (pre 1985): Intake = 7.97 mm; Exhaust = 7.97 mm. 22RTE: Intake = 7.97 mm; Exhaust = 7.97 mm. Did Toyota ever change it? VALVE LENGTH 20R: Intake = 115.5 mm; Exhaust = 113.6 mm. 22R (pre 1985): Intake = 113.3 mm; Exhaust = 112.42 mm. 22RTE: Intake = 113.9 mm; Exhaust = 112.8 mm. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 16:21:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: 22R engine block info To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Here is some data that I measured on the 22RTE engine (circa 1986). I assume that the 22RTE block, crank, and connecting rods are the same as the post 1985 22R. All items measured were stock (not modified), and not balanced. Measured in 1990. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com BLOCK MASS Engine block (bare) with freeze plugs installed. All other components not installed. 87 pounds. Serial number 1668605, stamped with "22R". CRANKSHAFT MASS Crankshaft with oil pump gear, timing chain gear, and flywheel bolts installed. 41 pounds. CONNECTING ROD MASS Connecting rods, less caps, nuts, and bearings. The wrist pin bushings and bolts were installed. #1= 545.4 grams #2 = 546.6 grams #3 = 546.9 grams #4 = 545.5 grams PISTON MASS #1 = 437.53 grams #2 = 438.01 grams #3 = 436.10 grams #4 = 437.72 grams xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: bfraser@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Yeesh .. helloo bad luck.. Date: Sun, 11 Feb 96 3:19:57 PST >It would seem me and mine just cant keep our cars on the road, but in the very >least we solved my roomies rev'ing problems in his 87 MR2 NA.. > >(I wrote my car off a month ago, my brother last week, and my roomie today) > >He was doing 50kmh along a straight dry stretch of road on a nice warm (-1?0Cel) >day .. car in front and in behind .. hit some black ice .. started doin 360's >rear end hit a ditch, car flipped and slid along on the roof .. > >He now owns the first convertable Mr2 .. amazingly enough he walked away .. >swearing like hell .. but walked away, the paramedics were amazed.. > >I hope this streak of bad luck ends before I fly off on the 21st.. > >Brett "ah hell, here we go again" Fraser Brett, I'm glad I don't know you personally :) :). I was in a close call today. Some guy in an old beatup datsun 210 was changing lanes. He cross three lanes slowly and I wondered if he was going to go into my lane and hit my M3! Sure enough he decides to move over another lane and since I was in the fast lane I was sandwich between the center divide and the datsun 210. Anyways, you know how it is on 880 (Oakland) and some parts of LA where there are no shoulders in the fast lane thus making the distance between you and the center divide about an arm length of two away? Anyways, this idiot decides to crush me (not intentionally of course)! I had two choices, jam on the brakes or the gas? I ended up pulling away from the guy as I accelerated towards the center divide to give myself some leway! Man, if I was in the Celica, I think I would have been Celica-less. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: toy4x4@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Toyota's Power rating Date: Sun, 11 Feb 96 3:31:27 PST Does toyota rate HP at the crank or at the wheels? My 1982 22R engine is rated at 96HP. My car (82 Celica) feels like it has about 60 HP. I've driven a friends Civic (non SI) and that car seems alot faster than the Celica. I raced my roommate on Miramar rode in SD (he in his Hundai and me in my Celica) and he was gaining (abeit slowly) on me. He has stick and I have an auto. Anyways, Jan's issue of 4 Wheeling/Wheeler? dyno'ed a 22R truck at 65HP. This sounds about right although it mentions the particular engine on that truck as "tired". The magazine did a project rebuild on that engine (20R head, port/polished, doug Thorley headers, weber 32/36 carb, etc) and dynoed the rebuilt engine at 85HP. Although that doesn't seem much, it's 30%+ increase! These are at the wheel dyno figures so at the crank the rebuilt engine is proabably at 100+HPs. So, is Toyota's HP rating at the crank or at the wheel? Has anyone dyno'ed their 22R/E/T engine? Thanks, Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Toyota's Power rating To: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Hong) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 1996 13:55:55 +0200 (EET) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > Does toyota rate HP at the crank or at the wheels? My 1982 22R engine is > rated at 96HP. My car (82 Celica) feels like it has about 60 HP. I've > driven a friends Civic (non SI) and that car seems alot faster than the > Celica. I raced my roommate on Miramar rode in SD (he in his Hundai and me > in my Celica) and he was gaining (abeit slowly) on me. He has stick and I > have an auto. Anyways, Jan's issue of 4 Wheeling/Wheeler? dyno'ed a 22R > truck at 65HP. This sounds about right although it mentions the particular > engine on that truck as "tired". The magazine did a project rebuild on that > engine (20R head, port/polished, doug Thorley headers, weber 32/36 carb, etc) > and dynoed the rebuilt engine at 85HP. Although that doesn't seem much, it's > 30%+ increase! These are at the wheel dyno figures so at the crank the > rebuilt engine is proabably at 100+HPs. Those Civics and Huyndais are probably a lot lighter than the Celica. > So, is Toyota's HP rating at the crank or at the wheel? At the crank/flywheel, just like every other manufacturer. Typically the drivetrain losses are 15-20%, so the 85hp at wheels is around 100hp at flywheel. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: k124476@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Toyota's Power rating Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 11 Feb 96 4:14:17 PST Hi Matti, >Those Civics and Huyndais are probably a lot lighter than the Celica. That's true, but still embarassed being beat by a HYUNDAI! Civic I really am not too surprised. >> So, is Toyota's HP rating at the crank or at the wheel? > >At the crank/flywheel, just like every other manufacturer. >Typically the drivetrain losses are 15-20%, so the 85hp at wheels >is around 100hp at flywheel. How about BMW? I heard their HP figures are very conservative. For example, I heard of someone dyno'ing three E36 M3's and they HP readings at the wheel were all greater than the factory rating. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 11 Feb 1996 22:48:03 EDT Subject: 4AG EFI to twin sidedraft conversion Hi guys, I am presently contemplating how to go about the conversion from EFI to twin carbs. I foresee some kind of electrical problem specifically with the ignition timing and the ECU and would be glad to hear any ideas or leads to someone who may have some idea of how to surmount this obstacle. gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca 85 Corolla GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 12 Feb 1996 10:53:43 +0000 Subject: US driving lights & turbo-timer finally got me I've had my turbo-timer since Sept/95 and I've always remembered to turn the driving lights off when leaving the timer running.... That is until yesterday.... Went to start my car yesterday AM and battery was as dead as the energizer bunny isn't. Jump start and two hours at the service station charging it back up. I"M WANNA GO CANADIAN!!!! ****Tell Me What You Think Of These Ideas**** Solution 1: Given that there is an ignition-off/door-open shut-off now (US spec car), why not figure out which wire at the ignition level triggers off status and splice in a loop to a mercury switch siliconed to the parking brake??? Brake handle vertical=off, horizontal=on. Yes, I know inertia will cause mercury to roll when horizontal-- haven't figured that part out yet!! Maybe some kind of position sensor similar to a mercury switch. This would be a safety net, would appear to be a simple solution if we are dealing with relay-level tiny amperage, and may not require as much wiring work as trying to switch to a Canadian driving light circuit. Solution 2: Another option is to run a relay from the turbo-timer to the driving-light sensor at the ignition. Turbo-timer active = ignition off signal to driving lights. on AND door open = driving-lights off. This way the turbo-timer would be giving desired rather than actual ignition on/off status. By the way, this is the solution that Directed Electronics said to use on its alarm systems (Viper, Python, many others) to get passive ignition-off/open-door arming and ignition controlled door locking/unlocking to work. Their tech will walk a local installer through it over the phone if you can find a local person willing to give it a shot! I haven't done this yet as the now redundant Toyota alarm system arms itself independently of turbo-timer status. Think of the irony: Here I am in Fort Lauderdale at the height of tourist/snowbird season surrounded by elder Canadians going 20 mph in boats with driving lights. I want my US spec car to have driving lights so I can maneuver around these people whilst being seen, but my now brain impaired driving light circuit has stopped my car dead in its tracks!!!! I think the joke is on me! I want my driving lights and my turbo-timer!!! Feedback?? Gary 93 MR2-T xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Feb 1996 07:20:10 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Rehashed info! This is some oldie but goodie info that I'm going to rehash here because several folks had asked me for it. When figuring out your carb jetting, here are some _guidelines_: -Main size = 4.4 time choke size -Air Corrector size = 5 times choke size -Change in Main is 3 times more significant than change in air corrector. For a 36mm choke plate: Main, 158 Air Corrector, 180 A change from a 105 to a 100 main is the same as a change from 160 to 175 in the air corrector. Remember, these are just guidelines for a starting point. Remember also that choke size is not the same as the venturi size. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Feb 1996 10:35:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: My .02 on the 20R head/22R block mod (long) To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Beth C. Williams writes: >We had to modify the head to make it work with my fuel injection. We did >this mainly because I already had the fuel injection and I didn't want to >spend the additional money for carbs. I think this engine is a good Beth, can you give a brief description of the mods required to fit the EFI intake manifold to the 20R head? This sounds like the ideal solution in order to pass smog tests. Is porting the only mod required to make the ports line up? Do the ports for the coolant line up? Sorry if this was already discussed over the weekend, my mail server was down. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: Flywheel Date: Mon, 12 Feb 96 11:53:00 PST High Bruce! = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: Flywheel Date: 5. 02. 1996 14:46 I wish I had never asked that original question about 4ag flywheel weights,not only didnt I ever find out how heavy the original 4AG unit was I was treated too bad memory's of University with discussions of angular momemtum. Now guys I have an honours degree in Physics but I need an imperical 'seat of the pants' answer here. 1. Is an 11KG 4AG flywheel driveable? Is the standard backing plate good enough for 155BHP and the HKS flywheel? Do I need to replace the flywheel and/or the clutch bolts? In the case of the 2TG the answer was, 11KG is too heavy, standard clutch is good to 170, CRANE high tensile bolts were no stronger than standard and you only broke the bolts when you used them to often and over torqued them. Bruce Connelly = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = I have some experience about 4A-GE clutch & flywheel... FLYWHEEL I lightened my flywheel last spring, but can't remmember anymore how much it weighted originally, I think it was something like 10-11kg. There were some 4-5kg (can't remmember again:) taken off from my flywheel, basicly from outerside. I didn't find big difference between lightened and the original versions (Didn't find much difference either when lightened my 2TGE flywheel from 11kg to 5kg). Offcourse there are - or at least there should be - some diffrence ex. getting the revs down faster - good for fast shifting, but not as much difference as I excpectet/waited. CLUTCH I have used stock clutch on my turboed 4A-GE (FWD Corolla) and have found out that the stock clutch can take some 170hp (It wears rapidly though!). If we go beyond that there will be slipping... The rallyshop owner here told me that the stock clutch is good only for 130-150 hp - what can I say... maybe I didn't have that much power on my 4A-GE (dyno altought told 170hp with 0.5 bar). By the way good & cheap clutch assemply still needed! My friend build from 2 stock pressure plates one "haevy" pressure plate and it's working! It's abit heavyer to use than stock (offcourse:) put it works...let's see how much torgue it can take (stock clutch plate). Maybe I'll use one too next summer :) It's cheap - only some sweat & machining needed (and two old pressure plates)... -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. Stock bolts... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: Flywheel Date: Mon, 12 Feb 96 12:32:00 PST High again Bruce! I HATE METAL DISKS! I have used on my 2TGE (later modified to 2.1 liter turbo intercooled...) an metal clutch disk and found it very duraple and good. But it had some disadvantages too! I hate to take off with it! Thre is no problem when in cruising speeds or faster, but if u want to take off smoothly... It made me CRAZY! I also had metal disk on my FWD Corolla 4A-GE (at that time 170 hp) and it broke my engine mounting runbbers and it was also crazy to drive (read - take off:). So if there is a choice I'll go for it! -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: Flywheel Date: 6. 02. 1996 11:29 To the list, Roger Smith's last note to me was very informative but highlighted a difference between ALL of my engines and some of you guys in the US. It appears you guys dont use solid plate metalic clutchs.....why? The very first thing I did when I put in my 4AG was to put a solid metalic clutch in it. It costs so little and pays for itself as you just resurface them. There is NO clutch shudder, no slip and no undesirable traits. You just give the rebuilder an old Toyota centre and $90 Aus and two days later it is done. Therefore I cant see why HKS would not recommend this for the road. Bruce Connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 08:24:58 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: Raikkonen Timo Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Flywheel On Mon, 12 Feb 1996, Raikkonen Timo wrote: > metal clutch disk and found it very duraple and good. But it had some > disadvantages too! I hate to take off with it! Thre is no problem when in > cruising speeds or faster, but if u want to take off smoothly... It made me > CRAZY! Try a metal disk with standard (or slightly heavier than standard) pressure plate. I have this setup in my KE-25 with 2T-G and it is nice and smooth but does not slip at all. Paul. -- Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: "'Tony York'" Subject: 2TG-E & 4A-GE idle... Date: Mon, 12 Feb 96 18:30:00 PST High Tony! I also once had similar problem with my 2TG-E(U) engine. I noticed that it occured after I had tuned the mixture "by my ear". In traffic light's etc. the engine reved between 800 and 1800 rpm. After listening this play I get annoied and started to tune it again. In the first place I had tuned the rpm only from the intakemanifold (near the putterfly), but this time I also screwed the airmeter (heh:)...but it did help! Now I have the same problem in my 4A-GE - kinda'... It starts doing that jumping when I push the pedal a bit (so the revs will reach 1500 rpm). If I keep the pedal in that position the revs jumps from 800 to about 2300 rpm. Immediately I lift my '42 (or is it 9) from the pedal it stops (not the engine:) and starts to idle like pussy. I haven't paid a lot intention to this becouse it's not messing with me too much. -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. If I adjust the idle rpm too high the engine will start playing with the idle rpm (up, down, up,...) Any "guru's" here who could light me with this phenomen? ============================== Hi Brett, I had problems with my Corolla GT Twin Cam ((GT-S)4A-GE) idling/ revving up and down. I later discovered that it was all due to air in the cooling system. Bleeding the system cured the problem. It was revving between 900rpm and 2000rpm.The temperature sensor was sensing the difference in temperature and adjusting the idle speed accordingly. Could be air !? Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: Ignitions Date: Mon, 12 Feb 96 19:25:00 PST High John! Welcome to the "internet e-mailing thing" John! I also have a 4A-GE turboed and love to here that here are some others too - GREAT! What I was going to say is that I surely know that it's not the best way to avoid pinging or knocking just letting "something" to retard the sparg by "how much?" A previously programmed and dyno tested retard is good, but this "do what u like - I don't see ya" system... (I once had Carter Knock Eliminator or something on my turboed (2.1 liter) 2TGU and didn't found it good). U can even rise the boost to 20 or 25 psi and still hear no ping! It could be that u get only 5 hp after rising boost from 12 to 20 psi - the mixture is not converted to heat instead of horsepower. By the way, how much does a programmaple fuel injection & spark control computer cost? I mean that it starts to be the the number one choice in cases like u and me. We can play with these fancy "little" stuffs as long as we want and still leaving that extra 100 ponies in rest (240hp+100hp=?:)! Am I starting something here? :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. Love to hear more from your setup! What kind of additional fueling system u use? Dynoed 240 hp? etc. ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: Ignitions Date: 8. 02. 1996 7:06 Hello there everybody.. I'm new to this internet e-mail thing, and I'm no expert on ignitions but this is what I have and it works well. '87 MR-2 4AGE Turbocharged 240 bhp. I started With HKS's EGC unit and Twin Power setup. Hated it. The Twin Power alone worked GREAT, The EGC however I could not get set up right, bouncing timing at idle inconstiant timing curve, poor starts, poor mileage. I removed both of those and replace it with the Jacobs OminPak and a Jacobs boost timing controller ( not sure of the name it was a few years ago ) Similar problems as above. The setup I have now is... J&S Electronice Digital SafeGuard and the HKS Twin Power Amp. I LOVE THIS ! I set my timing 2-3 degrees advanced and forget it. The J&S unit has a knock sensor that listens to EACH cylinder and retards only the one that starts to knock. It's sensor hears it way before anyones ear ever would. I'v had no problems with this setup even when running 15 psi of boost. Only one note. the Toyota ingnition system needs a special coil installed in the J&S unit in order for the factory ECU to think it still has a coil connected. No problem though the unit can be ordered that way. Disclaimer: Although this recomendation or modification has been sucessful in my application it has not been subject to exaustive testing and may not in all instances provide a compleate soultion. Thease are my opinions and may not nessarly agree with the opinions of management or others. Thank You John Welch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 16:12:26 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Forwarded mail.... Don't think this one made it to the list.... Paul. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 12:01:22 +1000 From: bagdon@rust.net Received: from [152.52.36.28] (vyger108.nando.net [152.52.36.28]) by Fe3.rust.net (8.7.3/8.7.3) with SMTP id UAA06529 for ; Mon, 12 Feb 1996 20:58:35 -0500 (EDT) X-Sender: bagdon@mail.rust.net Message-Id: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Mon, 12 Feb 1996 21:01:05 -0500 To: toyota-mods-approval@CyberAuto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (Steve Bagdon) Subject: waiting for approval. '85 MR2 N/A 179,000 miles. '91 MR2 Turbo 77,000 miles. Active member of MR2 list group. Many previous Toyota's in the past - '76 Corolla, '86 MR2, '81 Celica Sunchaser, '77 Coronna. Steve B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Mon, 12 Feb 1996 23:46:35 -0800 Subject: Re:Cylinder misfiring results To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com The following is proof that I don't know everything. As most of you will remember, my car was exhibiting an occasional slight stumble at idle and a bad misfire under boost. I replaced the plugs (which were damaged) and the problem persisted. I insisted that it must be a sensor or fuel delivery problem. I ruled out the obvious place to start which would be the ignition system because under idle a strong spark was evident at all the plugs. Well the verdict is: sometimes it's better to start with the obvious. Having spent $165 for diagnostic time and labor I now know that without a doubt the problem was the ignition! For $84.34 the local Toy. shop ordered new wires, a distibutor cap, and the rotor. I installed them this evening and the car runs flawlessly. I kicked it up to about 15 psi with no problem. Some of the lessons learned from this experience: 1. Assume nothing, your probably wrong anyway. 2. Don't use Bosch Platinums in the 3S-GTE, they just don't work well in this engine. The Toyota Platinums work 100% better. 3. Start with the cheap replaceable items before paying somebody else to do it. (I could have saved myself $165 if I had done this). 4. Learn from the experiences of others. E.g. it was brought to my attention that members of the Talon/Eclipse list had experienced similar troubles and solved it by replacing wires, plugs, the distributor cap, and rotor. Regardless, I now understand what causes this problem with worn/old ignition components. Accepting the fact that the distibutor mechanism has a fixed mechanical operation, the rotor only maintains a connection (almost) with each terminal of the cap for a fixed period of time directly related to crank position. The ECU decides at what point to trigger the spark during that connection. In order to prevent detonation the ECU retards the spark. This means the spark triggering occurs later in the distibutor connection interval. Increasing boost increases the amount of spark retard - often beyond where the distributor has a visible connection. I.e. the spark must arc between the rotor and the cap terminal. A worn or corroded cap and rotor increase resistance and reduce the distance that can be arc'd. Additionally the more dense charge in the cylinders from boosting increases the resistance in the gap of the plugs. Throw in some old wires with higher than normal resistance and the problem gets worse. So if your car developes an on-boost miss, check the ignition first by replacing the parts that have a relatively short service life. They'll try this first at the shop anyway and charge you $55+/hr to do it. Hopefully this post will save others from such frustrations in the future. I just wish I had my $165 back! LT-1 owners you can go back into hiding now. >:) Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 07:10:08 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re:Cylinder misfiring results Kip: Don't beat yourself up too hard. Like I say, it's always the plumber's pipes that are leaking! I continuously beat people up for not replacing their spark plug wires. The things just simply don't have an infinite lifetime. Yet when my Oldsmobile started coughing, choking, and sputtering upon accelleration, I never even considered the spark plug wires! I talked with a friend who works in a dealership, he talked with his service folks, and they said, "Tell the bozo to replace his spark plug wires." (Well, I would have said something like that anyway.) I did, problem gone. I wouldn't drone on at this point, but since we've kinda been beating ignitions around...Most folks can get all the additional firepower they need in a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder by just upgrading their carbon fiber core spark plug wires to a good quality spiral core wire. There are many--Taylor, Jacobs, Accel, NGK--but for all-around cost/performance/ ease of installation, I recommend Magnecor. They install in a snap, look good, fit well, last a long time. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 9:35:36 -0500 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: My .02 on the 20R head/22R block mod (long) >Beth, can you give a brief description of the mods required to fit the EFI >intake manifold to the 20R head? This sounds like the ideal solution in >order to pass smog tests. Is porting the only mod required to make the >ports line up? Do the ports for the coolant line up? It really wasn't that complicated. Two main things actually. 1) There are two studs at the back of the 20R head. These don't line up with the holes on the fuel injected intake and they have to be moved. We just unscrewed the studs, filled in the area, and retapped the holes for the studs in the correct place, and reused the studs. You can use All Metal, any type of aluminum patching material, or aluminum weld that area. We had someone to weld my head, but Jeff has used the All Metal as well. 2) There is a water jacket at the front of the 20R head that, if you look inside with a flashlight, you can see that it doesn't go anywhere. (I'm having a hard time figuring out how to describe what has to be done, but here goes.) You need to drill holes (4 total) using about a 3/8" drill bit at both the top and the bottom to the right and the left inside of this hole. If you are looking at the hole, put the drill into the hole and turn it to the right and drill a hole at the top and the bottom. Then turn the drill to the left and drill your holes at the top and the bottom. Everything else should line up after some porting. The second thing we learned from experience. We saw the hole and assumed that it went somewhere, Why else would it be there, right? We tested it with just short trips when we first got it running. I finally got brave and decided to drive it to town. I was on my way back home when the heat hand started creeping up. I was about 3 miles from home when I decided it was getting too high to keep going. Thank goodness for cellular phones! We had to take the intake back off and realized that that hole didn't go anywhere, so there was no water flowing through the head. Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 10:30:06 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: My .02 on the 20R head/22R block mod (long) If I could find a woman who could talk motors like this, I'd probably get married !!! Jeff did well for himself ... Beth even drives a 4x4 ;-) !!! - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com --> Decatur, al At 09:35 AM 2/13/96 -0500, Beth wrote: >>Beth, can you give a brief description of the mods required to fit the >EFI >>intake manifold to the 20R head? This sounds like the ideal solution in > >>order to pass smog tests. Is porting the only mod required to make the >>ports line up? Do the ports for the coolant line up? > >It really wasn't that complicated. Two main things actually. > >1) There are two studs at the back of the 20R head. These don't line up >with the holes on the fuel injected intake and they have to be moved. We >just unscrewed the studs, filled in the area, and retapped the holes for >the studs in the correct place, and reused the studs. You can use All >Metal, any type of aluminum patching material, or aluminum weld that >area. We had someone to weld my head, but Jeff has used the All Metal as >well. > >2) There is a water jacket at the front of the 20R head that, if you >look inside with a flashlight, you can see that it doesn't go anywhere. >(I'm having a hard time figuring out how to describe what has to be done, >but here goes.) You need to drill holes (4 total) using about a 3/8" >drill bit at both the top and the bottom to the right and the left inside >of this hole. If you are looking at the hole, put the drill into the >hole and turn it to the right and drill a hole at the top and the bottom. > Then turn the drill to the left and drill your holes at the top and the >bottom. > >Everything else should line up after some porting. > >The second thing we learned from experience. We saw the hole and assumed >that it went somewhere, Why else would it be there, right? We tested it >with just short trips when we first got it running. I finally got brave >and decided to drive it to town. I was on my way back home when the heat >hand started creeping up. I was about 3 miles from home when I decided >it was getting too high to keep going. Thank goodness for cellular >phones! We had to take the intake back off and realized that that hole >didn't go anywhere, so there was no water flowing through the head. > > > >Beth C. Williams >Automated Degree Audit Specialist >Office of the University Registrar >University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill >105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 >Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 >Phone: (919) 962-0495 >e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 12:03:14 -0500 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: My .02 on the 20R head/22R block mod (long) >If I could find a woman who could talk motors like this, I'd probably >get married !!! Jeff did well for himself ... Beth even drives a 4x4 ;-) !!! > - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com --> Decatur, al I drive my Paseo most of the time. You know I have to keep up appearances!!! I have to admit before I met Jeff I knew nothing about cars, except to get in and drive. I guess it has just been rubbing off for so long, I can't help but know a FEW (and I do mean very few) things!!! Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re:Cylinder misfiring results Date: Tue, 13 Feb 96 10:16:57 PST From: Christopher Myer > >Kip: > >Don't beat yourself up too hard. Like I say, it's always the plumber's >pipes that are leaking! > >I continuously beat people up for not replacing their spark plug wires. >The things just simply don't have an infinite lifetime. Yet when my >Oldsmobile started coughing, choking, and sputtering upon accelleration, >I never even considered the spark plug wires! I talked with a friend who >works in a dealership, he talked with his service folks, and they said, >"Tell the bozo to replace his spark plug wires." (Well, I would have said >something like that anyway.) I did, problem gone. > >I wouldn't drone on at this point, but since we've kinda been beating >ignitions around...Most folks can get all the additional firepower they >need in a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder by just upgrading their carbon >fiber core spark plug wires to a good quality spiral core wire. There >are many--Taylor, Jacobs, Accel, NGK--but for all-around cost/performance/ >ease of installation, I recommend Magnecor. They install in a snap, look >good, fit well, last a long time. > >Chris Chris and Kip, I have a friend who is having the "sputtering" problem. His car is an automatic. At park and neutral, the car is fine. However, once it is in drive, the car sputters. Give it gas and it will sputter until over 1.5k RPM. Does this sound like plug wire problems? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: toy4x4@ro.com Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 14:26:59 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re:Cylinder misfiring results >I have a friend who is having the "sputtering" problem. His car is an >automatic. At park and neutral, the car is fine. However, once it is in >drive, the car sputters. Give it gas and it will sputter until over 1.5k RPM. >Does this sound like plug wire problems? Yes, that's exactly what one of my vehicles was doing before I replaced the plug wires, at idle it never missed a beat but up the revs and there was the miss, I thought for sure there was no way it was the plug wires since it didn't do it at idle, I replaced fuel filters, even pulled the gas tank and cleaned, then out of a whim decided to upgrade to some Jacobs wires and the problem was gone ... - jack xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 20:09:28 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: 20R/22R/22RTE cylinder head info Great info, Bryan! Thanks for the post! I really can't add anything about the stock setup, but some good info to have on the Wiseco Pistons: WISECO PISTON DOME VOLUME Domed pistons (Ok for pre 84.8 2xR engine): 24.7cc Flattop pistons (Use on post 84.7 22R engine): 0cc (duh!) Using this and the info Bryan posted (plus the head gasket compressed height) you can figure out exactly what compression ratio you are going to be running with these pistons. Here's the formula: C-P+G+D+V CR = --------- C-P+G+V Where: C is combustion chamber volume P is piston dome volume G is head gasket volume D is deck height volume V is cylinder swept volume (all in cc's) Here are some more equations: D = (d/2)^2 x 51.48 x h where: d is cylinder diameter (inches) h is deck height (inches) Pardon the US terms--these are from the SA Design book Engine Blueprinting by Rick Voegelin. I recommend it highly (check out www.cyberauto.com/cartech for more fine SA Design books and prices!) Deck height is the distance from the deck of the block down to the top of the piston at TDC. Obviously, this is a negative number if the top of the piston comes above the block deck. Also, we aren't talking about the dome, but rather the top of the piston which doesn't include the dome. Similarly, G = (d/2)^2 x 51.48 x t where: d is gasket hole diameter (inches) t is compressed gasket thickness (inches) You can figure out the rest. Using this, you can come up with the _EXACT_ compression ratio you are running. (Not a guesstimate.) Always hoping to be helpful! Chris -- Christopher P. Myer Cyberspace Automotive Performance www.cyberauto.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 19:35:32 -0800 Subject: Re:Cylinder misfiring results To: Gary Hong Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Tue, 13 Feb 96, Gary Hong wrote: >Chris and Kip, > >I have a friend who is having the "sputtering" problem. His car is an >automatic. At park and neutral, the car is fine. However, once it is in >drive, the car sputters. Give it gas and it will sputter until over 1.5k RPM. >Does this sound like plug wire problems? Sounds more like a slight vaccum leak, but if the wires are >3 years old and the plugs >1 year replace them. While at it your friend might as well put in a new rotor and distributor cap. (As I found out, they can look Ok but still be causing problems.) Regardless check all the vaccum connections and hoses very carefully. One loose/cracked hose can really screw up the works at low RPMs by either allowing the engine to run overly lean or by sending a false signal to a sensor (vaccum operated mechanical timing advance for instance). Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 22:20:31 -0700 From: Steve Alexander To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 1985 Toyota MR-2 parts I've posted this before, so please forgive the repitition.... I have the following parts from my '85 MR-2 for sale: Here are my asking prices: 4 Tokico Illuminas, ST springs - $420.00 (no shipping (exch.)) (I'd like to do an exchange on the entire strut assemblies so i'd need youroriginals back.) K&N Filtercharger w/ refresh kit - $100.00 + $10.00 to ship Plus, not in my first post: I have a Super Trapp with a short piece of pipe attached. It attaches where the CAT went, and replaces all of that HEAVY stuff in the back compartment (held up by a hose clamp and one of those strap-type muffler hangers (which would be included). I left my original setup on and switched at the track in ~20 minutes. I'd sell this setup for $90.00 + $10.00 ship. Someone Please buy this stuff so I can clean out my garage! -SAAWOB- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 00:46:10 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Japan Stuff I can order anything from Japan currently. If not, they will drop ship (UPS generally) to the US make sure you tell them its for racing purposes only. Also, if you want anything else, i recontacted a friend living there. He's willing to goto junk yards and salvage stuff. -Koji xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 01:12:46 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Ordering from Japan - Just tried Aloha... Try call up TRD Japan direct, like someone named Roger did a long time ago. They speak english rather well. After a while, have that fax machine ready, and they'll fax you over anything you want. One important note, is that they go by Model designation numbers. such as AE-86 or Toyota 86 or Hachi-jyu roko is a 1984-1987 RWD Corolla GTS. Ma71 is a toyota supra, sw11 is a mr2 etc etc. Luck ! -Koji xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 09:21:22 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) Subject: Re:Cylinder misfiring results >Regardless check all the vaccum connections and hoses very carefully. One >loose/cracked hose can really screw up the works at low RPMs by either >allowing >the engine to run overly lean or by sending a false signal to a sensor (vaccum >operated mechanical timing advance for instance). Speaking of vaccuum leaks, on my 22RE engine (Celica) I found a hole in the hose that runs from the bottom of the vaccuum cylinder (chamber?). Where does this hose go to? It leaves the bottom of the cylinder then goes into the body of the car. What would the hole in that hose do? Curiously, -frederick. '85 Celica GTS Convertible xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" From: Tony York Subject: Ignition ? Date: Wed, 14 Feb 96 08:34:56 PST Hi group, I was reading an old 'MAX POWER' magazine and discovered a section on ignition amplifiers and stuff. They beleive that you can get 2-3hp extra at the wheels just by putting a new ignition coil and amplifier. Also they suggested that you could get another 2hp ish by widening the gap on the spark plugs from 32 to 40 ish, I can't remember the exact figures. If anyone is interested I will dig the info out and post it to the group. Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 23:31:25 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: Carb For Sale Hello everyone, Just happen to have a slightly used Weber 32/36 downdraft progressive with air cleaner, linkage, and adaptor for 20R or 22R for sale. Moving up to a Weber dual 38mm. $175obo. We ship anywhere!. Chris W Morgan 1979 Celica Sunchaser 1984 Celica GT Hatchback 1985 Celica GTS Convertable P.S. To the Toyota Goddess Beth Williams: Could you sweet talk the stock 20R cam specs (duration and lift) from your hubby?. Mr Myer doesent seem to have enough pull to get the job done!. I'll bet you do!. Thanks!. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 15 Feb 96 13:26:36 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Whats an AE86? To the list, After my last append on the differences between the front rear and mid engined 4AG cars I'm drowning in mail! So if I've forgotten you I'm sorry please write to me on AUIBMBMC at IBMMAIL.COM if you want a response. Now it seems that many people dont know these numbers. AE86 is the last of the rear wheel drive corolla's, often called a Sprinter, Levin, Trueno or similar. The AE82's are FWD, the FX-16 is the US hatch with two doors. It is called a 'Twin Cam' in Australia and differs from the US model in that it has 4 doors. The MR2 is an AW11 I think. In all these names the A=A series engine, the E= corolla,W=MR2 and 82,86,11 etc is the model number. Within these numbers there were other variations, for instance the AE86 came this two different noses and at least a boot or hatch variation of each nose. The AE82 came in Hatch, sedan and SECA (5 door lift). All these variation have differnt weights and different top speeds. The popular choice is the AE86 with short nose and a boot , but Australia only got the Hatch, and I think the US was the same.I think the UK and Japan got this model which is lightest. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 16:38:29 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov (Stuart Banks) Subject: Re: Carb For Sale Hi Chris, Do you already have the 38/38 on your car? I have been thinking of moving up from the 32/36 to the 38/38 myself and would like to hear what you think of it. Did you loose power on the bottom end? can you feel the difference at the mid and top end? Also is this on your 20R or 22R? Thanks Stuart ****************************** * stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov * * Stuart Banks * * NASA GSFC Code 713 * * Greenbelt, MD 20771 * * (301)286-5934 * ****************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 21:27:09 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Some Weber Info I've just begun to understand Weber, and thought I'd pass on the info I have so everyone else could avoid wandering in the dark the way I've done for the last 2-3 years on this subject. As I mentioned before, there is an East Coast Weber and a West Coast Weber. West Coast Weber is AEM. I've worked with Keith there at AEM for quite a while, and he's an easy guy to talk with. Keith can tell you carb jettings off the top of his head, and you can get some really good info from him, although he's kind of hard to pin down on anything. Quite expensive, however. I bought my 38DGES Weber for the race car from AEM way back before I went into the parts business (about 2 years ago, maybe a little more), and I paid over $400 for it then, which is still high by todays standards. The East coast Weber distributor eluded me until today. Stuart suggested that I call a place called Interco for info on buying Weber's wholesale. Well, I called them, and when I got home tonight, my big supplier in Miami sent me the first Weber catalog I have ever seen! I've been begging for a Weber catalog for over 2 years from AEM (and others) and was promised that no such thing existed. Well, I have one in my hot little hands, and it is a "Interco-Weber" catalog. Hello! Interco is the East Coast Weber distributor! While Interco seems cheaper, their kits seem very unimaginative, especially for the Toyota's. If you call AEM and want to put a set of sidedrafts on a 22R, they'll give you the info faster than you can write it down, and will give you a selection of 2 or 3 different manifolds that you can choose from, with various lengths. You can get the el cheapo linkage, or you can get their upgraded aircraft stainless linkage for even more (that's what I got for the truck.) Interco may be able to do all of this, but their catalog doesn't indicate that they can, and neither did the sales rep that I talked with. Ok, well write down this info 'cause you're not going to get it anywhere else! Here are the Interco-Weber kit numbers for some common Toyotas. Unfortunately, while you can hardly _force_ AEM to sell you a 32/36 for any engine over 2 liters, Interco only sells 32/36's for the 2xRs and 3T motors. Anyhow, in case you're interested: K744: 32/36 DGEV kit for 8RC Celica's, Corona's, Pickups 18RC Celica's, Corona's, Pickups K752C: 32/36 DGEV kit for 20R Celica's, Corona's, Pickups K748C: 32/36 DGEV-IC kit for 22R Celica's, Corona's, Pickups K663C: 32/36 DGEV-IC kit for 71-74 2TC Corollas K741C: 32/36 DGEV-IC kit for 75-79 2TC Corollas & 3TC Corollas K751: 32 DGEV kit for 4ALC Corollas 1AC Corollas 3AC Corollas Now what do all of those silly Weber acronyms mean? DGV, DGAV, DGEV, DFV, DFAV, DMSA, ADF, DMTR, DIR 2 barrel downdraft, progressive ICH, ICT 1 barrel downdraft DGES, DCNF, IDF 2 barrel downdraft, synchronous IDA 2 or 3 barrel downdraft, synchronous DCOE 2 barrel sidedraft, synchronous In general, for that long list of DG and DF carburetors, the type of choke is listed by either an A for water (Agua!), E for electric, or neither for manual. Well, that's enought for now. I probably should put this out on the TM web site, but I think that I'll add a Weber catalog page to the CAP web site and put all this info there. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Golf1par@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 22:25:31 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Fwd: Cylinder misfiring results In a message dated 96-02-13 08:06:04 EST, cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) writes: >I wouldn't drone on at this point, but since we've kinda been beating >ignitions around...Most folks can get all the additional firepower they >need in a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder by just upgrading their carbon >fiber core spark plug wires to a good quality spiral core wire. There >are many--Taylor, Jacobs, Accel, NGK--but for all-around cost/performance/ >ease of installation, I recommend Magnecor. They install in a snap, look >good, fit well, last a long time. Hi folks! I must second the motion for the Magnecor wires. My project/fun/race car before my recently purchased '86 MR2 was a relatively perfect '73 Fiat 124 Spyder. I loved that car, ran the crap out of it, but for the longest time I was eating spark plugs like popcorn. I was running 10.5:1 compression, touring cams, and dual 40mm downdraft Webers. My idle jets were a little on the rich side but that made it idle a little better with the light flywheel and all... Anyway, I must have tried 4 different plug manufacturers and at least 2 wire sets in my quest to stop misses and plug failures. I bought the Magnecor wires on a recommendation from a good parts dealer near here and BINGO! Never again did I have a plug fail or a miss problem, which let me have fun with the rest of the car! I guess that's enough of my saga, but I will say that I got more complements on those wires than I ever expected. They looked GREAT and performed as well. I have a set on order for my MR2 -- now to get those cams installed... :) :D Dave '86 MR2... soon the snow will melt (I hope!) --------------------- Forwarded message: From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: 96-02-13 08:06:04 EST Kip: Don't beat yourself up too hard. Like I say, it's always the plumber's pipes that are leaking! I continuously beat people up for not replacing their spark plug wires. The things just simply don't have an infinite lifetime. Yet when my Oldsmobile started coughing, choking, and sputtering upon accelleration, I never even considered the spark plug wires! I talked with a friend who works in a dealership, he talked with his service folks, and they said, "Tell the bozo to replace his spark plug wires." (Well, I would have said something like that anyway.) I did, problem gone. I wouldn't drone on at this point, but since we've kinda been beating ignitions around...Most folks can get all the additional firepower they need in a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder by just upgrading their carbon fiber core spark plug wires to a good quality spiral core wire. There are many--Taylor, Jacobs, Accel, NGK--but for all-around cost/performance/ ease of installation, I recommend Magnecor. They install in a snap, look good, fit well, last a long time. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 8:30:51 -0500 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: celicag@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 20R Cam Specs......Finally Okay Guys, here they are.................................................... For 1975 and up 20R's and non EFI 22R's: Intake Duration- 272 degrees Exhaust Duration- 248 degrees Intake Lift- 10.1 mm Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm For EFI 22R's: Intake Duration- 248 degrees Exhaust Duration- 280 degrees Intake Lift- 10.0 mm Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm Enjoy................... I had to look high and low for them!! Later, Beth Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: Flywheel (copper disk)... Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 16:15:00 PST Hei Pauli! I had such installation on my past KE-35 with that pored 2T-GE with 3T rods etc (2.1 liter also turboed). There was 4 plate disk with 4 springs with HKS (don't really remmember) pressure plate with same kind of system as Centerforce pressure plates (those little metal cubes between the pressure springs). Anyway I didn't found it very smooth. Yes it was smooth when driving, but (again) the take off is not smooth! Actually I can't understand how could a metal disk be smooth? It really doesn't slip at all and if it does it will soon become "old one". Am I lost or am I really lost? -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. I really tried to get smooth take offs but couldn't1 And after hard driveing the clutch was even more acressive to crap! PPS. Here is the same story in Finnish for Pauli :) Tuossa oli aikoinaan siin{ KE-35:sessani poratussa 2T-GE:ss{ (kuten joskus kerroin sinulle) sellainen viritelm{. 4-lapainen kupari levy (jouset keskell{, jotta pehme{mpi) ja paineasetelmana HKS:n tai jotain miss{ samanlaiset metallipalat niiss{ Centerforcen asetelmissa. Toimivat varmaan niin, ett{ kierroksien mukaan lis{{v{t painetta? Anyway, en kokenut sit{ mukavaksi! L{htiess{ oli aina oltava tarkkana sill{ tarrasi nopeasti kiinni. En itse asiassa ymm{rr{ kuinka kupari levy voisi olla pehme{? Seh{n ei oikeastaan luista ollenkaan ja jos luistaa on se pian entinen!!! Vai olenko ihan v{{r{ss{? PS. Voi kun olis l{mpim{ss{ ja kuivassa (siis maassa)! :) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: Raikkonen Timo Cc: toyota-mods Subject: RE: Flywheel Date: 13. 02. 1996 8:24 On Mon, 12 Feb 1996, Raikkonen Timo wrote: > metal clutch disk and found it very duraple and good. But it had some > disadvantages too! I hate to take off with it! Thre is no problem when in > cruising speeds or faster, but if u want to take off smoothly... It made me > CRAZY! Try a metal disk with standard (or slightly heavier than standard) pressure plate. I have this setup in my KE-25 with 2T-G and it is nice and smooth but does not slip at all. Paul. -- Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 01:11:36 -0600 (CST) From: Craig A Terlau To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: "Wendy P. Jensen" , Subject: Cold Starting Some recent posts about starting problems in extremely cold weather prompted me to relay my own Starlet cold starting problems to the group. Some of you may have read my previous post about ignition system modifications. Well, one of the things I have done is to disable all of the timing advance mechanisms and run about 38 degrees timing advance. (I have also made adjustable phasing between the rotor and cap so that the sparking occurs while the rotor and cap-electrodes are aligned.) Having full advance at all rmp's has its advantages, and if you haven't tried it you would be amazed at how it affects driving response. When you put the boot in at lower rpm's the engine has LOTS more power than with a distributor using advance mechanisms, but you have to be aware of engine knock and sort of hand run the engine. Well in that last cold snap we experienced here in the Mid-Western USA the temperature where I live dipped colder than -30 F. Embarrassingly, my car wouldn't start when it became colder than about -15 F. Here's why: When it is really cold, the engine cranks MUCH slower than normal. With 38 degrees advance, as soon as the fuel-air mixture would ignite, it would be pushing the pistons down against the direction of engine rotation and working against the starter (which is already having a bad time of it). Fortunately for me, my girlfriend volunteered to start the Starlet by pushing it with her completely stock 92 Corolla DX (which always starts no-matter-how-cold-it-is). But a guy can only take so much of this. I put a stock distributor back in there and set the timing to factory specifications. Now it always starts. However, the performance is significantly lower. Craig. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 12:23:28 +0000 Subject: Stereo Security Code >>As you may have already guessed, I have a problem. I had my battery >>replaced for the first time and the anti-theft system was engaged. >>Unfortunately, I do not have the security code. > >Did you try 100? That is the factory default code. My car's previous >owner never changed it, so it was left at 100. I got lucky :) My 3 in 1 stereo obviously has an unknown code entered (SEC on start-up). If I want to try "100" to see if I can change the code will I be able to go back to normal operation after ONE ATTEMPT to change it, or will I be stuck with the thing waiting for 8 more attempts and then lock-up??? Please let us know if you have actually done this as opposed to thinking you know how to do it!! Gary. 93 MR2T xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 13:36:00 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: 4M engine I was wondering about the old 4M inline 6 cylinder engine. This engine dates back to 1972, when it replaced the 2M as the 6 cylinder option in the Mark II, but more recently was used in the 79 and 80 Supra and the 80 Cressida. The 5M replaced the 4M in 81, and the 7M replaced that in 86. Enough history lesson. The 4M is an 80mm x 85mm (bore x stroke), the 5M is 83 x 85, and the 7M is 83 x 91. I am supposing that the 4M could be easily bored over to 83mm to acommodate 5M/7M pistons. Then, I was wondering if the 7M crank could be used in either the 5M or the 4M, since all 3 engines share the same rod and main journal bearing sizes. Anyone? Finally, although the valve from the 7M would obviously not be appropriate in either the 4M or 5M (the 7M is a 24 valve engine), I think that the 42mm wide 5M intake valves and seats could be used in place of the 40mm wide 4M intake valves. The 5M valve is 2mm longer, however, so I am not absolutely sure of this. Anyone? (The exaust valves from the 4M and 5M are identical, BTW. Probably some old Supra owners out there that would love to think they could upgrade their 2563cc Supra's to 2954cc's, eh? Add some high compression pistons and a healthy carb setup and I'm guessing that you could probably come close to doubling the HP--the 4M is rated at a weeny 110 hp, while the NA 7M is rated at 200 hp. Chris -- Christopher P. Myer Cyberspace Automotive Performance www.cyberauto.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 22:59:55 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: Sunchaser 20R rebuild Hello Group! A few months back I posted about rebuilding the motor in the Sunchaser. I dont remember if I had made any posts since the project began. In the spirit of the TM group I feel an update is do! A month ago or so I pulled the motor and tranny as one unit in around 3 hours. Separated the tranny, pulled the clutch and pressure plate, and mounted the motor on the stand for breakdown. By the way this is a 1979 Celica Sunchaser Convertable which I've owned since new. The 20R has 130k, a weber 32/36 proggressive and a cheap 4 into 1 header I bought a few years back for $25 from the junk yard. After pulling the head and dropping the pan I began removing the pistons. The very first one dropped out in my hand like the birth of a child from a mother of six! This was a good sign. Absolutly no ridge at the top of the bore. The piston skirts had no scuffs and mic'd fine. The other 3 slugs and bores were ditto! With the cam still in the head I checked the camshaft thrust clearance which was fine (0.08-0.18mm,limit is 0.25mm), any more than the limit toss the head. Put a straight edge on the head, block, and manifold surfaces only to find out they were also sweet. Upon inspection of the crank and rod bearings I found they were also in good shape except #4 rod bearing which had gotten some trash in it and scored the bearing but the crank did'nt have a mark on it! Life is good! I spun the block over to check the bores with the dial bore and noticed that the factory 60 degree cross hatch marks were still perfectly visible. All bores were round and measured within standard limits. I originally had visions of 92mm pistons and side drafts but after looking over everything I decided not to bore it because of it being so straight. My friend who owns Schuetrum Racing, a FULL service machine shop here in Orlando, was standing next to me and said "This thing is so straight you need to save your money on pistons,($300plus) and leave the factory machine work alone!" This was fine with me because as I said before I've owned it since new and plan on being buried in it so I have nothing but time. All parts have been ordered from Mr Myer at Cyberspace Automotive Performance and are as follows: 1.rebuild kit a.Sealed Power oil pump b.timing chain kit c.rod bearings d.main bearings e.Gasket set f.brass freeze plugs g.Sealed power rings h.thrustwasher set 2.Doug Thorley chrome tri-y header 3.Centerforce 1 clutch and pressure plate 4.Sealed power stock outer valve springs 5.Isky inner valve springs 6.American cams regrind (somewhere around 280/280/.441) 7.Weber progressive DGES Dual 38 8.K&N valve cover breather 9.crank and pulley repair sleeves So the last few weeks I've been cleaning and painting parts and have got the engine bay cleaned and painted flat black with Plasti-kote paint. I highly recommend this product it is by far the best paint I've used. The block is in the hot tank and I'll be port matching the head in the next few weeks. That about it for now. Later! Chris W Morgan 1979 Celica Sunchaser Convertable 1984 Celica GT Hatchback 1985 Celica GTS Convertable celicag@magicnet.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 18:31:18 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos " Subject: Re: Gtech performance meter More ... I took the unit and modified it a bit. I cut the power cable which feeds from the cigarette lighter...I am a determined NON-SMOKER and have removed the lighter....anyway the cable is a coiled one, rather hard and if stretched, tends to pull the unit down . I cut it about 2 inches left on the unit (all the straight portion) and made a small pack of batteries, 8 very small ones of 1.5 V each...total 12V put them inside a heat shrinkable tubing and used two sided adhessive tape and fixed it under the unit. Presto a self powered unit...draws about 40 ma in operation, the pack will last for over 4 hours continues...seems perfect. I could not wait to try it out. I took off to a close by highway but there was substantial low speed traffic so I could not do much. The LED display is a bit difficult to read in broad day-light but that is the only draw back. I tried 4 times to read the HP and it worked very good. The trials were progressive, started out at low power... registered 60 HP, up to 245 HP...and I did NOT push the car at all. I have taken a dyno reading of 220 HP on the wheels which should give over 260...280 HP on the Gtech. I used a 3200 lib weight input (2900 for the car 93' mod, since I have upgraded the brakes etc plus 100 for the gas and 200 for me...) I think that if you under estimate the weight of the car you will get a reading which will be lower than the actual one...which is ok...meaning that your HP is actually higher...where if you overestimate the weight of the car the reading will be higher than the actual one. Now I will try to get the car weighted...full gas and me inside...find a good stretch with NO traffic and take my valuable readings. ___________ ________________ ________ __ ___/__ | / /__< /___ __ )___ __/ _____ \ __ | / / __ / __ __ |__ / ____/ / __ |/ / _ / _ /_/ / _ / /____/ _____/ /_/ /_____/ /_/ (Kostas G. D. Chryssos Ph.D.) 30,Ikarias str. Glyfada GR16675, Athens, Hellas Tel: xx-301 9628212, Fax: xx-301 9628539 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 20:56:45 +0100 From: Gianvalerio Giubilo To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Hi, i am a new member of this mailing list. I live in Rome, Italy and i am a software engeener. I have a 1993 Red Mr2 Turbo. For posting my email is brandol@mbox.vol.it xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 18 Feb 96 16:26:41 EST From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Wheels for '91 MR2T I have a 1991 MR2 Turbo and am wondering what is the largest size wheel/tire combination that will fit on my car. May be 17 or 18 inch wheels possibly? Also I'd like some black wheels. I don't know what brand puts out black wheels. I did see some on the Porsche in the current Motor Trend magazine. If anyone has any news on this, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank Alex P.S. Is my car intercooled or is that only on the newer turbo MR2's? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 18 Feb 96 16:29:12 EST From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Air intake I have a 1991 MR2 turbo and am thinking about installing an air intake on it. Would I have to get a fuel cut defencer for my car? What brands do you recommend and about how much does it cost? Thanks Alex xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 08:55:11 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: Raikkonen Timo Cc: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: Flywheel (copper disk)... On Fri, 16 Feb 1996, Raikkonen Timo wrote: > Anyway I didn't found it very smooth. Yes it was smooth when > driving, but (again) the take off is not smooth! Actually I can't > understand how could a metal disk be smooth? It really > doesn't slip at all and if it does it will soon become "old one". > Am I lost or am I really lost? We have a three-button clutch-plate and have converted to hydraulic clutch (all Corolla's here in the KE20/30 series at least had a cable mechanism) - maybe that is the key. All I know is that my wife has no problem driving it (unless her shoe gets caught in the carpet - but that is another story - enough said that regardless of her misfortune she still beat my rally car down the quarter mile :) - is not a toyota... BTW, Took me a while to get through the Finnish version in your original reply - and then I find you posted it in English to the list anyway :) Still - good practice for when I finally get to Finland - hopefully this year or next! Must try driving on snow.... Paul. -- Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 21:13:03 -0800 From: Joe Ernst To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: Joe Ernst Location: Dallas, TX, USA Model: 1984 Supra Engine: 5M-E (GE)? Mods: None yet email: joeje@iadfw.net Thanks for subscribing me to your mailing list. I come from a Ford background, having owned a 1967 Mustang which was THOROUGHLY worked over. I recently sold it, as well as the 1993 Mustang 5.0L I was driving. I bought a 1984 red Supra as a replacement (needed to lower the budget for awhile). As I am used to driving cars with plenty of power, I'm sure I will dig into the Supra soon. This car seems to have a good foundation to build upon. I would like to get the car into the 250hp range. Any suggestions (besides Nitrous) would be appreciated. (Does anyone know if the 7M-GE engine would fit in place of the 5M-G? and what is the difference between the 5M-G and 5M-GE?) Since I have only been driving a Toyota for 2 weeks, any information about them, no matter how trivial, would help. Thanks, Joe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Starter To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 02:00:26 -0800 (PST) I need some help and/or advice on this. Just this morning I started the car to go to work, no problems. I came back to get something after 10 minutes, got it, then tried starting the car again, and all I could hear was something like the sound of a plunger from the starter. No cranking noise or anything. Oh, it just makes a humming noise too. It's happened to me before, only before, while holding the ignition for 5 seconds or so, it actually starts. This time, I had to call for help from BCAA. To cut the story a little short, some guy whacked the started with a hammer, and it started after a few cranks. What I like to know is that, how much longer can I expect the starter to last, to the point where striking it will no longer start it any more. WOuld I be able to get away with it for a month? MOre? Just found out it would cost $300 Cdn to fix that damn thing. It's also an inconvenience when it doesn't start when you're in a real jam, like having to be late for work already. Oh, the guy mentioned, if I couldn;t start it, I try pushing the car, stick it into third, and starting it. I've never actually pushed started a car before, I'm not very keen on it either. My manual says it's sorta bad for the car. How bad is it really? Richard '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: starter To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 02:11:32 -0800 (PST) Forgive me, if I've posted this already. I forgot if I hit the right option last time, so I'm writing this again to be sure. Anyways, the last time I started the car, all I could hear was a "plunger-like" sound from the starter plus a humming tone. It's happened before to me in the last 2 months or so, but before I could get it started after holding on the ignition for 5 seconds or so, and it starts cranking. I had to call BCAA this time to get it started. The guy whacked the started a couple of times and I got it cranking in a couple of seconds. What I like to know is that how long can I expect the starter to last now, to the point where no amount of hammering to the started will get it started. I found out it was quite costly to replace, $300 CDn. Can I expect to go a couple of weeks, a month, more? Or could it just totally seize on me one day. The guy also told me the next time it wouldn't start I could try pushing the car, stab it in third, and start it. Is this good for the car? MY manual says not. Is it worth it to push start the car if all else fails? Richard '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 04:53:56 PST From: wg%rm763a@riem.com (Wayne R. Graves) Subject: RE: starter To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I have both a 86 GTS and a 88 AlTrac. I have replaced starters on both cars a couple of times and Batteries almost once a year in both cars since I bought them. Always for the same reason, the starter would not work. Try this, turn on your lights and hit the starter, see if your lights dim. If your lights dim your not getting power from your battery to the starter. If They Don't dim, your not engaging your selinoid(on the starter). I discovered that my harness on my 1988 was droping about 3 volts at 15 amps in the wire going to the selinoid. My solution was to go to target and buy a $2.95 relay and place it between the the battery(with a fuse) and the selinoid and switch it on with the power that was going to the selinoid. The car not only starts every time it seems to turn over faster(there use to be a delay). I tested this idea before I put the relay in place by(every time it failed to start) by placing a wire between the selinoid lead on the starter up near the plus side of the battery and just hitting the plus side with it(while out of gear with the ignition still on). The car would always start. Now I'm sure if your not into eletricity all this may seem complicated, but you asked, I had a problem like this and thats how I fixed it. Wayne xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: FEB '96 Fast Car Mag. Part 1 of 3 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 08:38:36 PST As promised this is the article from the February '96 Fast Car magazine = about ignition amps, etc. It comes in 3 parts. Fast Car 'February 1996' WE HAVE IGNITION! We Treat A Corolla GTi To A Complete Ignition Upgrade - And There's Not = A Chip In Sight. Andrew Noakes Explains. Talk about ignition system tuning and everybody thinks you mean chips. = Or (if they're into older, chipless vehicles) a re-curved dizzy. But there are = other ways to improve ignition systems, without spending huge amounts of money or spend= ing three years doing a degree in electronics. Successful ignition is a combination of two things. First, a spark with = enough power to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinders. Second, correct = timing so that the spark arrives at the plug at just the right moment. Currently, most ignition tuning - like that the re-curved distributor = or re-mapped management - alters the timing of the spark. In road cars, the = spark will always occur just before top dead centre (TDC) as the piston is rising on the = compression stroke. Leaving the spark until the engine is close to TDC = is often the safe option. It'll mean losing a bit of power, but poor fuel and irregular = maintenance are going to cause less of a problem. Using better (i.e. high= er octane ) fuel, we can 'advance' the spark and get more power. Advancing the spark means timing it to occur earlier in the cycle, giving= the fuel enough time to start burning. As it burns, the pressure on the pisto= n increases, and if timing is right this will occur just as the piston reaches TDC and = we'll get the maximum amount of power. But these methods of ignition tuning alter just the timing of the spark. = While the timing is critical to the way the engine performs, we can also make = a difference by improving the quality of the spark itself. Boosting the power of the spar= k turns out to be fairly easy, and the benefits extend further than just = the handful of bhp you're likely to get. You could also get better throttle response, better= driveability and better starting. To find out just what kind of difference we could make with some relative= ly cheap ignition upgrades, we selected a car that's got a lot going for = it in standard form, but tends to be a bit pricey to tune - Toyota's Corolla GTi 16V, = which has basically the same 1587cc twin-cam motor as the old-shape MR2. This example belongs to Raymond Goh, and is thoroughly standard and in excepti= onal condition. The extensive testing work, plus fitting and removing the kit = that we tried, was entrusted to the workshop and rolling road dyno at Autosprint = Birmingham, England. BRIGHTER SPARKS The main part of our test was to check out part of Crane Cams' range of = ignition components. First was the PS91 high-power ignition coil. This = is a so-called 'E- core' design, meaning that the core of coil has the shape of a letter = E. Most recent cars have coils like this - they're the small box-like coils which= have tended to replace the old style can-like systems. The E-core coil has a 'closed = magnetic path' which means that less of the magnetic force is lost, and that means= more energy can be stored in the coil and delivered to the plug. Also from Crane Cams was their HI2000 ignition amplifier, which boosts = the energy at the plug still further, and can produce a longer spark which = gives an even better chance of burning all the available fuel. As the final test, we tried bigger plug gaps, working on the assumption = that if the system now had more power it would be able to spark over a wide gap. On top of all that, we also tested the effect of Splitfire spark plugs = on the standard car, and as part of the 'final' uprated ignition system. It's interesting that the total cost for the lot is about the same as = you'd pay for a chip change. Does it make the same kind of difference ? Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Feb '96 Fast Car Mag. Part 2 of 3 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 08:40:16 PST Part 2: TEST 1. STANDARD IGNITION SYSTEM & PLUGS. In completely standard form, the Toyota recorded 104bhp at the wheels on the rolling road at Autosprint. That's pretty good, indicating an output at the flywheel a few notches up on the claimed 112bhp. Even in standard form, though, the 16-valve motor showed it's preference for high revs, with a big step in the power curve around 4500rpm. Looking at the standard ignition system we've got a modern high-energy coil, low-loss HT leads and high quality Nippondenso platinum-tipped plugs - probably one of the best 'conventional' plugs around. TEST 2. CRANE PS91 COIL & STANDARD PLUGS. Crane's PS91 coil is claimed to deliver up to 70% more energy to the plugs than standard-spec coils. There's probably less of an advantage over the Toyota's modern high energy electronic ignition, but even so we still recorded 1-2bhp more from 5000rpm upwards. At higher revs the standard coil is more likely to run out of puff because it has less time to charge up, so it's at the top end of the rev-range that the PS91 shows its advantage on the rollers. On the road the greater spark energy should also help to ignite the weaker less well-mixed air/fuel mixtures found during part-throttle operation, making the car more driveable. We couldn't tell from this car, but on later vehicles equipped with exhaust re-circulation (EGR) to reduce emissions, the fatter spark should improve driveability. And the same applies to the cars running hot cams and suffering from poor idle and low-load performance. TEST 3. CRANE PS91 COIL, HI2000 AMP & STANDARD PLUGS. Adding the HI2000 amplifier gave us about 2bhp more all the way through the rev range. That's not bad going when you remember that we haven't changed the ignition timing at all. And yet its yet more impressive when you realise that these test ended up being performed in less favourable weather conditions, and might be a bit pessimistic. Although we couldn't measure torque figures, 2bhp at low revs will probably be worth 5lbft or so. That's well worth having, particularly on an engine which only gives of its best at high revs in standard form. Wiring is simple - PS91 coil is practically a direct replacement item, and HI2000 is easy to plumb in. Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Feb '96 Fast Car Mag. Part 3 of 3 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 08:41:43 PST Part 3: TEST 4. PS91, HI2000 AND 42THOU PLUG GAPS. This is where we took a leap in the dark. Assuming that the crane coil and ignition amp were producing extra engine power by delivering more energy to the spark, we tried widening the plug gaps from the standard 32thou (0.8mm) to 42thou (1.05mm). A bigger gap means bigger spark, but requires more energy for the current to jump the gap. We reckon that the higher power ignition system should be able to handle a bigger gap reliably. And it did, sort of. Widening the gaps by 10thou (0.25mm) gave us another 2-3bhp at the top end, though we also lost 1bhp or so up to 4500rpm. More developement time would give us the chance to play with the plug gaps in more detail. That might mean we could find a setting where we could get most or all of the top end power with little or no loss at the bottom. TEST 5. SPLITFIRE PLUGS. Splitfire plugs are unique in having a V-shaped earth electrode, which is supposed to give the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder more chance to get at the flame kernel produced by the spark. That's said to improve combustion and have a positive effect on power, economy and emissions. The downside is that the plugs themselves are very expensive compared to more conventional designs, costing around 27 pounds for a set of four. They do appear to be well-made, though, which goes some way towards justifying their high price. But we knew that their very individual design would have to go some to find an advantage over the high-quality standard plugs. With the standard ignition system, we couldn't detect much of a power difference between splitfires and the standard Nippondenso plugs. If anything the splitfires actually lose a little. With the Crane coil and ignition amp fitted, and the standard gaps still in use, again the Nippondenso plugs had a slight edge. But when we opened out the plug gaps to 42thou (1.05mm) the Splitfires gave us up to 1bhp more at the bottom end (up to 4000rpm), and then dropped behind again at high revs. Raymond, the owner of the car, also checked out the difference between the two sets of plugs on the road. The Splitfires certainly seemed more driveable at 'normal' engine speeds, even if they didn't give an increase in peak power. Couple all this with the fact that we have seen Splitfires give more power on some cars, and the situation just becomes even more confusing. Just remember, if you fit a set, that while a bit more mid-range punch is no bad thing, it's not at all the same as extra peak power. CONCLUSIONS. If you're going to be pedantic about it, our Crane ignition uprate netted us 3-4bhp. But bending the spark plugs about costs nothing and isn't really very difficult. If you assume that the Crane-boosted ignition is allowing us to run bigger gaps, then you can conclude that we've gained 6bhp or more at the wheels. If the standard car was producing the claimed 112bhp, then our car is now up to 119bhp or so. When you consider the costs involved - 77pounds for the PS91 coil, and 140pounds for the HI2000 amp - that's pretty cheap horsepower. Boosting the ignition system in this way also increases potential for the future. For example, because the greater ignition energy should help the engine burn off iffy mixtures at part throttle, the negative effects of a performance cam are lessened. And all those other ignition tuning strategies we talked about earlier - like chips - are still available if we want them. Sounds like a great way to get your engine tuning off the launch pad ... CONTACTS: Autosprint - 0121 236 5133 (England) Crane Cams - 01938 556614 (England) Splitfire - 01562 822699 (England) Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: leongc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Starter Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 15:19:28 PST Sounds like a starter solenoid problem. Check out my previous postings on this list as well as the supra and toyota list. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: rm763a!wg@riem.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: starter Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 15:37:54 PST From: "Wayne R. Graves" > > I have both a 86 GTS and a 88 AlTrac. I have replaced starters on both cars >a couple of times and Batteries almost once a year in both cars since I bought >them. Always for the same reason, the starter would not work. > Try this, turn on your lights and hit the starter, see if your lights dim. If >your lights dim your not getting power from your battery to the starter. If They >Don't dim, your not engaging your selinoid(on the starter). I discovered that >my harness on my 1988 was droping about 3 volts at 15 amps in the wire going >to the selinoid. My solution was to go to target and buy a $2.95 relay and place >it between the the battery(with a fuse) and the selinoid and switch it on with >the power that was going to the selinoid. The car not only starts every time it >seems to turn over faster(there use to be a delay). I tested this idea before I >put the relay in place by(every time it failed to start) by placing a wire >between the selinoid lead on the starter up near the plus side of the battery >and just hitting the plus side with it(while out of gear with the ignition >still on). The car would always start. Now I'm sure if your not into eletricity >all this may seem complicated, but you asked, I had a problem like this and >thats how I fixed it. > Wayne Wayne, Sounds like you have worn out solenoid contacts. Since you have a work around, you can stick with it or if you want to fix it, go to an alternator/electric motor store and buy the pair of copper contacts. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 19:50:28 -0500 (EST) From: Aaron Buhr Subject: 7MGTE fuel system upgrade To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , When I finally get my motor back together, I think I'm going to go ahead and get a fuel system upgrade. Lance at Toyomoto recommends the Lexus V8 airflow meter & injectors, plus a 300ZX TT fuel pump and an HKS Fuel Cut Defencer. This would cost about $1600, versus about $1000 for an HKS FCON + $1600 for the HKS injectors = $2600. What I can't figure out is why the FCD is necessary with this set-up. The purpose of the FCD in general: on most turbocharged cars the ECU will cut fuel flow if it determines that the incoming airflow exceeds a certain amount (indicating overboost condition and possible impending engine damage). As I understand it, the FCD clips the airflow signal below the fuel-cut off value. The problem then is that the airflow keeps increasing, but the ECU doesn't know that and only delivers fuel for the lower, FCD-limited airflow value. That's why HKS pretty much requires that you use an FCON with the FCD. The FCON has it's own pressure sensor separate than any of the stock engine controls, so that it can read the pressure itself and increase the fuel signal (injector pulse width) to compensate for the additional airflow that the ECU knows nothing about. Anyway, the idea behind the Lexus airflow meter and injectors is this: the Lexus airflow meter is bigger, so that for a given airflow amount it will deliver a smaller signal than the stock 7MGTE airflow meter. This works well with the Lexus injectors, because they are bigger than 7MGTE, so that at a given injector pulse width the Lexus injectors will flow more fuel. The lower airflow signal from the Lexus airflow meter delivers the smaller, correct signal for the larger injectors, and that airflow signal is below the ECU danger threshold. So a) why is the FCD necessary, and b) if it is necessary what is done so that additional fuel is supplied above the FCD airflow limit? Anyone have any ideas? Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Golf1par@aol.com Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 21:24:11 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: TRD Header for 4AGE Hi folks! I have a question for those of you who have installed the TRD header (or any header for that matter) on the 4AGE engine. Before winter I purchased the TRD header for my MR2, and at the exhaust ports the finish is not real smooth. The contact surface where the header meets the head is smooth around the ports, but the entrance into the header isn't what I'd consider oval. There are some welds that extend into the port opening and it is somewhat uneven. I will be installing the header and my new HKS exhaust this spring, so I have a little time to play with this. Question: Is it worth it for me to grab my trusty Dremel and some grinding bits and "port" the header? I'm inclined to say yes, but I thought I'd get some opinions from some experienced gurus... :) I imagine the best way would be to match the header to the gasket (I don't have the luxury of having the head off the car), or I could simply smooth the ports. Of course, if there is no gain from doing this I'll save the effort. Comments? Suggestions? Dave 1986 MR2 -- snow is melting!!! :D xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: "'Paul Pyyvaara'" Subject: RE: Flywheel (copper disk)... Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 18:55:00 PST High Paul! Well... I had hydraulic system too, never had any wire systems. My present car also has hydraulic system and the copper disc didn't act smoothly. I just wonder, how could these experiences be so different from each other? I think we had almost the same installations - and u have even more accressive plate (the "3 wing" model) than I did (the "4 wing model" with springs). I'm lost again :) But I'm really happy if u are satisfied with your clutch! I just wonder what was wrong with mine (two clutch models and even in different cars)? -Timo- PS. My ex. girl friend also drived the copper clutch with no problem. One could drive the car (except my father:), but it wasn't as smooth as stock. ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: Raikkonen Timo Cc: Toyota-Mods-mailin'list Subject: RE: Flywheel (copper disk)... Date: 19. 02. 1996 8:55 On Fri, 16 Feb 1996, Raikkonen Timo wrote: > Anyway I didn't found it very smooth. Yes it was smooth when > driving, but (again) the take off is not smooth! Actually I can't > understand how could a metal disk be smooth? It really > doesn't slip at all and if it does it will soon become "old one". > Am I lost or am I really lost? We have a three-button clutch-plate and have converted to hydraulic clutch (all Corolla's here in the KE20/30 series at least had a cable mechanism) - maybe that is the key. All I know is that my wife has no problem driving it (unless her shoe gets caught in the carpet - but that is another story - enough said that regardless of her misfortune she still beat my rally car down the quarter mile :) - is not a toyota... BTW, Took me a while to get through the Finnish version in your original reply - and then I find you posted it in English to the list anyway :) Still - good practice for when I finally get to Finland - hopefully this year or next! Must try driving on snow.... Paul. -- Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 22:23:57 -0500 (EST) From: Aaron Buhr Subject: Re: turbo f/s To: supraman Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, On Wed, 31 Jan 1996, supraman wrote: > The best suggestion I can give you is to get as far away from toyomoto > as humanly possible. I would only go to a professional race engine ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > builder for your car. If you have some hack work on it you get your ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Not meaning anything to you by it, but I don't know whether to laugh or cry at that underlined part. I _just had_ my engine rebuilt by a professional race engine builder, and the thing lasted two weeks before blowing out another rod bearing. Anyway, like I said, I'm certainly not knocking your advice, but I've already tried someone who was a known race engine builder and it didn't work out. After that, I insisted on finding someone here in Florida that actually had constructed a high-performance 7MGTE before, and the only person who I could find that actually had done that in this area was Lance with Toyomoto. FWIW. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 00:33:06 -0600 (CST) From: Craig A Terlau To: Golf1par@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: TRD Header for 4AGE Yes! Clean up the header where it mates with the exhaust ports. I do this with every header I install. I use a 1/2 or 3/8 inch drum sander wheel with a coarse drum to do this. The long 1.5 inch drums are very easy to use for this. I chuch it in a drill press and while it is spinning I grasp the header and work it against the drum. Clean up any welds and irregularities on the header flange but be careful not to hit the mating surface or the inner wall of the header tubing. You may also want to use some port-matching procedure as described in the book "Design and Tuning of Competition Engines" and others. I feel it is ok for the header flange opening to be slightly larger than the exhaust port opening, but NOT smaller. Criag. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 96 01:29:03 PST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Brett Fraser Subject: See ya in 6.. See you all again in 6 months .. Plane leaves here 5:45 PM Local time for Amsterdam .. (which, coincidentally, has been having the most snow its had in 10 years (groan)). When I return Im either going to bite the bullet and get a loan and search for an 88 Celica Turbo 4WD, or (if my roomie buys a 70-77 Celica to replace his dead MR2) an 70? (or was it 72 for the first year) - 74 (lighter weight than the 75+ Im told..) Maybe track me down one of those 18RG's Ive heard so much about, should anyone in Western Canada hear about an 88 Turbo for sale in the next 6 months please email this acct or the list with what price the owner was asking .. someone will be getting all the msgs for me :) Thanks all, see ya later. Brett Fraser Ex-83 Celica GTS Coupe. (The scrapyard bought it for 300$ from the insurance company.. after I got my stereo out..) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Pop off valves for TO3 turbo To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 12:23:41 +0200 (EET) > I've had an enquiry from someone who is putting a TO3 on a datsun engine > (L20B). Now, I know it's not a toyota, but all he wants is info on pop/blow > off valves, so I thought you guys might be able to help. > > I have an HKS catalogue, which lists things like: > Adjustable pop-off valve (3.5-9 psi, 6-12 psi, 7-14 psi, 12-18 psi) > Pop-off valve spring (same psi ranges) > Gaskets etc > > So, what does he need, what info does he need to determine which one etc etc > (I assume he just picks the right psi.) ..... does size/fitting matter? etc > etc I'd like opinions and help in picking up a blow off/dump/compressor bypass/ whatever/ -valve too. However, 18psi IS JUST NOT ENOUGH. Some of you with factory turbo engines had a bypass valve from the factory, I wasn't that fortunate and therefore I'm now with a heavily oil-leaking CT20 turbo which I'll replace next week with a T3 (which will recieve a more suitable compressor housing and wheel slightly later). As I'm not too fond of destroying more turbos, I need a blow off valve for up to 280hp / 25psi. Cool appearance or sounds don't matter, cost does... -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 06:40:25 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Air intake >I have a 1991 MR2 turbo and am thinking about installing an air intake on it. >Would I have to get a fuel cut defencer for my car? What brands do you >recommend and about how much does it cost? K&N makes a regular filtercharger filter for your MR2, but they haven't yet released their FIPK, which is a complete replacement of the air intake. HKS has the Power Flow system for your car, however. Neither will require the purchase of a fuel cut defencer. This is just necessary if you install something that allows you to run overboost on your engine so that the engine doesn't cut off at standard boost levels. Check out the MR2 home page at www.mr2.com for more info! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 07:43:07 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Pop off valves for TO3 turbo >Any prices Chris? Well, since she asked so nicely! Wastegate, blowoff valves, and guages from GReddy and HKS: GReddy Blow-Off Valves: R type, stiff spring, 370100, $229.10 R type, standard spring, 370101, $229.10 S type, standard spring, 370110, $204.53 Stiff spring (like that in 370100), 370112, $33.82 (Flanges and outlet pipes also available--send email.) S type kit for SW20, (370123), $261.82 GReddy Boost Guages: 52mm Mechanical, Black Face, 370037, $129.28 60mm Mechanical, Black Face, 370064, $137.46 60mm Electrical, Black Face, 370053, $276.54 Guage Mounts: 52mm $3.00, 60mm $6.00 HKS Boost Meters: 46mm: Standard, (Orange) 4490EC-90000X, $132.95 52mm: Standard, (Orange), 4080EC-90000X, $76.90 Standard, (White), 4081EC-90000X, $76.90 60mm: Standard, (Orange), 4180EC-90000X, $131.08 Standard, (White), 4181EC-90000X, $131.08 Peak Hold Warning, (Orange), 4480EC-90000X, $306.86 Peak Hold Warning, (White), 4480EC-90000X-W, $306.86 80mm: Peak Hold Warning, (Orange), 4390EC-90000X, $472.50 HKS Wastegates and Blow-Off Valves: Standard Wastegates, $297.85: 5.7 psi, 6570RA-00140X 9.5 psi, 6570RA-00268X 10.0 psi, 6570RA-00372X 14.0 psi, 6570RA-00480X 15.5 psi, 6570RA-0051KX Special Racing Wastegates $737.40: 9.0 psi, 6575RA-00268X 10.0 psi, 6575RA-00372X 14.0 psi, 6575RA-00480X 15.5 psi, 6575RA-0051KX Special Racing Wastegates (Stainless) $748.84: 10.0 psi, 6575RA-00372X-S 14.0 psi, 6575RA-00480X-S 15.5 psi, 6575RA-0051KX-S Standard Blow-Off Valves: $69.95 Racing Blow-Off Valves: $149.95 Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 07:46:26 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: See ya in 6.. Brett: Get you the old Celica and then get the 18RG from Jeff at Toyz Unlimited. He seems to have an in with Mr. Toyoda and gets these really cheap. BTW, I've found an old 76 or 77 hatchback that's going to be my dream car. Now if I can only contact the owner and convince him to part with it! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "gary friedman" Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 20 Feb 96 10:37:14 Subject: US driving lights & turbo-timer finally got me Why not use the 'hard' switch on the parking brake? Ok, granted that it is 'on' when vertical, and 'off' when horizontal -- you can use a two-pole Bosch relay to wire it such a way that the relay goes 'off' when energized. Hook up the 'coil' side of the relay between a +12 volt source (that is live when the ignition is on) and the other spliced to the parking brake switch. On the 'switch' side of the relay, hook up the common pole to same +12 volt source; hook up the driving light's ignition-trigger to the Normally-Closed (NC) pole of the relay. Engaging the parking brake with the ignition on will energize the relay -- which will pull the relay's switch OPEN. Effectively sending an OFF signal to the ignition-trigger. Assumptions: - The parking brake switch 'goes to ground' when on. - The driving light's ignition-trigger sees +12 volts as an ignition-ON signal, and 0 volts as an ignition-OFF. - The turbo timer sends +12 volts to the ignition circuit when operating . Potential downside: - You would have to engage your parking brake before your turn the ignition off (in case you don't activate the turbo timer everytime). You can connect to a constant 12 volt source to alleviate this problem, although you will have a small current drain since the relay is always 'energized' whenever the parking brake is engaged. You can really have a lot of fun with those Bosch relays -- reversing switch status is just one .... you can even switch polarities. Have you tried hooking up your alarm to your factory horns -- alternating between low horn tone and high horn tone? Fun! =) Hope that helps, John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG Personally, I turn everything off (AC, stereo, lights - mental checklist; special instructions), rev the engine a few times, before turning the engine off. Problem happens when I loan the car to someone else. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: mr2-digest @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet, toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: gfriedmn @ ipof.fla.net ("Gary Friedman") @ internet Date: 02/12/96 11:53 PM Subject: US driving lights & turbo-timer finally got me ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I've had my turbo-timer since Sept/95 and I've always remembered to turn the driving lights off when leaving the timer running.... That is until yesterday.... Went to start my car yesterday AM and battery was as dead as the energizer bunny isn't. Jump start and two hours at the service station charging it back up. I"M WANNA GO CANADIAN!!!! ****Tell Me What You Think Of These Ideas**** Solution 1: Given that there is an ignition-off/door-open shut-off now (US spec car), why not figure out which wire at the ignition level triggers off status and splice in a loop to a mercury switch siliconed to the parking brake??? Brake handle vertical=off, horizontal=on. Yes, I know inertia will cause mercury to roll when horizontal-- haven't figured that part out yet!! Maybe some kind of position sensor similar to a mercury switch. This would be a safety net, would appear to be a simple solution if we are dealing with relay-level tiny amperage, and may not require as much wiring work as trying to switch to a Canadian driving light circuit. Feedback?? Gary 93 MR2-T xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Marc "L." Summers-SysAdmin , From: Tony York Subject: Re: Feb '96 Fast Car Mag. Date: Tue, 20 Feb 96 08:33:34 PST I found the article very interesting, but it would be more interesting if they had done this test with a Turbo charged car, and also checked if indexing the plugs made any difference. Even with the Crane HI-6 and the Crane E core coil I would find it very difficult to believe, from the tests that I have done, that they would be able to open up the gap to any extent at all above stock gap settings. I don't think the even the Crane HI-6 can punch through 14 lbs of boost. Thanks. -- + ------------------------------------------------- + + +++ N E C +++ +++ A M E R I C A +++ + + ------------------------------------------------- + + Marc L. Summers System Administrator + + 3100 N.E. Shute Road Hillsboro Oregon 97124 + + PH: 1-503-681-3338 FAX: 1-503-681-3304 + + Email: marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com + + ---------- Sic transit gloria mundi. ------------ + + --- "Thus passes away the glory of the world." -- + + ------------------------------------------------- + ========================= Hi Mark, Unfortunately we don't have the luxury of having the turbo'd version of the 4A-GE engine. I think there are about 3 or 4 in the country and some of these are conversions by Turbo Technics, we also only have about 5 of the supercharged MR2's (MK1). That's why they did the article on the standard unit. Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 11:35:27 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: backposts to Aug. '95 If for any reason you want to look at backposts, for each month from Jan. '96 back to Aug. '95, I would be happy to send you one or all. Dec. '95 and Jan. '96 (and Feb. '96) have a nifty table of contents by thread name. I can send just the table of contents, if you prefer. Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 21:49:09 -0500 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 7MGTE fuel system upgrade > > When I finally get my motor back together, I think I'm going to go >that airflow signal is below the ECU danger threshold. So a) why is the >FCD necessary, and b) if it is necessary what is done so that additional >fuel is supplied above the FCD airflow limit? > > Anyone have any ideas? I am not familiar with any devices to eliminate the fuel cut. I know of a 91 MR2 Turbo that had the wastegate mechanically locked shut. The car was used as a race car. They got around that problem by putting a small bearing in the hose to the turbo pressure sensor. This is not a proper fix, and is the only thing that I noticed on the car. The car had a proper vacuum/pressure gauge to replace the stock one. In races the car would overheat, head gaskets were replaced regularly, but no mechanical failures were experienced. Mike Dowe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 20:02:00 -0800 (PST) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Pop off valves for TO3 turbo To: Toyota Mods Cc: Chris Myer Hi there all. I've had an enquiry from someone who is putting a TO3 on a datsun engine (L20B). Now, I know it's not a toyota, but all he wants is info on pop/blow off valves, so I thought you guys might be able to help. I have an HKS catalogue, which lists things like: Adjustable pop-off valve (3.5-9 psi, 6-12 psi, 7-14 psi, 12-18 psi) Pop-off valve spring (same psi ranges) Gaskets etc So, what does he need, what info does he need to determine which one etc etc (I assume he just picks the right psi.) ..... does size/fitting matter? etc etc Any helpers? Any prices Chris? Thanks heaps Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ...... now wanting more power >: ) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 21:24:36 +1100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: TRD Header for 4AGE >Hi folks! > >I have a question for those of you who have installed the TRD header (or any >header for that matter) on the 4AGE engine. Before winter I purchased the >TRD header for my MR2, and at the exhaust ports the finish is not real >smooth. The contact surface where the header meets the head is smooth around >the ports, but the entrance into the header isn't what I'd consider oval. > There are some welds that extend into the port opening and it is somewhat >uneven. I will be installing the header and my new HKS exhaust this spring, >so I have a little time to play with this. > >Question: Is it worth it for me to grab my trusty Dremel and some grinding >bits and "port" the header? I'm inclined to say yes, but I thought I'd get >some opinions from some experienced gurus... :) I imagine the best way >would be to match the header to the gasket (I don't have the luxury of having >the head off the car), or I could simply smooth the ports. Of course, if >there is no gain from doing this I'll save the effort. > >Comments? Suggestions? > >Dave >1986 MR2 -- snow is melting!!! :D > Yep, the solution is quite easy - don't use the new pipes at all - just put the standard cast-iron manifold back on and sell the fancy TRD ones. The standard item will almost invariably out-perform specialist gear, even if the advertisement says stuff like, "5 hp increase" - they may well give a 5 hp increase, but will most probably LOSE power in a lot of other places. Of all the dyno tests I've heard about, the standard manifold usually works better than anything else. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Feb 96 12:44:48 EST From: "MAGEETC1" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tom Magee/85 Supra Here is my new subscribee info per request: Tom Magee Sykesville, MD 85 Supra 5MGE tom.magee@jhuapl.edu My car has 178,000 miles. I've done all my own repair work as listed below. I've only done very minor mods such as air flow potentiometer, cat conv, antisway bars, shocks and struts, K and N air filter. I'm interested in learning about other mods I can do to this car. Repairs performed clutch (my fault) security system CD player/speakers windshield wiper leakage broke positive battery terminal alternator brushes, 95,000 power antenna failed due to internal rust from water vacuum switching valve for heater heater blower motor brushes, 112,000 brake pads (1st time at 115,000 mi) thermostat, 120,000 electronic ignition module, 121,000 timing belt, 121,000 parking brake cable broke, 123,000 exhaust system (twice), (don't buy Dobi) rebuilt clutch master cylinder (still leaks) replaced front shock struts replaced rear shocks replaced rear anti sway bar with ADDCO (it broke off the bracket) replaced differential (bad pinion bearing), 155,000 replaced steering gear assembly and tie rods replaced front wheel bearings A/C compressor failed (not repaired yet) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 11:46:00 -0800 (PST) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Turbo problems on MR2 To: "'MR2 announce'" , Ok. here's a problem for you gurus out there. I've been contacted by a service centre that has an MR2 to fix. It's off a car lot and has been sold but has the following problem that they are trying to fix: When boost is just starting to build up, and when you take your foot off the gas when under boost, there is a "ppffft ... bang" noise. I know it's REAL hard to explain noises, but he said it's worse when the tubing to the airbox is off. The car has a turbo timer and about 49K kms. It's an early MKII. (solid roof too!! ) The mechanic has sealed off the 'turbo' pipes and tested for leaks, found a few and fixed them, but it didn't fix the problem. We both assume it's the 'flutter' valve (i don't know what you call it) that lets off the pressure when you take your foot off the gas under full boost, and circulates it back thru the airbox (?) and turbo. He had another turbo MR2 in the shop, so swopped the 'valve' ... the other MR2 didn't have the same prob so we assume the valve is ok, but it made no difference to the 'broken' MR2. any suggestions??? Thanks heaps BTW ... please reply directly back to me as we need any help ASAP. Ade adem@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 17:17:28 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: pah112@psu.edu (Peter A Howard) Subject: Strange "No Idle" in a carbed 20R Fellow Toyota owners, I own a 1979 Toyota Celica with a 1980 20R block with the 1979 carb and manifolds. I bought a used 1980 20R block and head because it was cheaper to do this than get the timing chain and tensioners fixed. I put in a 1982 clutch disc as well. Yes, I performed the transplant myself. I added the original intake and exhaust manifold. I am getting a very strange no idle condition that is becoming progressively worse (meaning more frequent). I will try to describe the problem as accurately as possible, and I am sure that someone will recognize it and solve this mystery. If I coast at a moderate speed down hill with the throttle just barely cracked open, I get some mild backfire (not loud at all) that seems to be exiting the carb. If this continues, the engine will die if the clutch is put in and the engine allowed to idle (it would idle if this problem didn't exist, but it dies). Basically it goes like this: driving along, feel some severe bucking and hesitation, push the clutch in to shift or to stop, the engine dies. The strangest part of this problem is that if I rev the engine above idle speed (around 1200-2000 rpms) and hold the throttle at this position, the engine will continue to run. This would be fine with me, but I have to use my right foot to hold the throttle open, and then use my left foot to brake and shift. Ususally this is not a problem, but this stalling out usually occurs at the most inopportune time such as in heavy stop and go traffic and on crowded city streets. I should note that this problem can occur on steady cruising speeds such as the freeway. I am tipped off that the engine may not idle when I come to a stop by severe bucking of the car. It feels like the ignition is cutting out or the car is running out of fuel. My Celica has 198,000 miles on it and is a joy to drive because it is so damn reliable. This problem has plauged me for several years now, and I would like to clear this mystery up. I have done the following: replaced PCV valve, fuel filter, fuel pump (with a junk-yard one), and checked the screen on the fuel pump. I have limited the problem to these areas: fuel system, carb, or ignition. Please email me directly because I am not a member of the list, and I probably should be. Send to pah112@psu.edu If I have been unclear, please ask for clarification. Thanks again, Peter Howard 87 Supra Turbo 79 Celica Yes I like Toyotas! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: pah112@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Strange "No Idle" in a carbed 20R Date: Wed, 21 Feb 96 16:06:22 PST From: Peter A Howard > >Fellow Toyota owners, > >I own a 1979 Toyota Celica with a 1980 20R block with the 1979 carb and >manifolds. I bought a used 1980 20R block and head because it was cheaper >to do this than get the timing chain and tensioners fixed. I put in a 1982 >clutch disc as well. Yes, I performed the transplant myself. I added the >original intake and exhaust manifold. How about just taking the timing chain and tensioner from the used 20R block and putting it in your "good" engine? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 21:37:50 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Want to mod a '93 MR2 >Next he wants to know >about after market brakes and if the '93 turbo calipers and rotors fit >on his '93 non-turbo. I think that rotors are different, both front and back. The rear brake pads are the same, indicating that the calipers are the same, but the fronts are different. I am sure that you could switch everything between the two cars, but I just don't know how far you must go to do the switch, ie, you may have to replace the entire hub and maybe even the strut to use the rotors and calipers from the Turbo. Here are the Stillen part numbers I used to make these educated guesses: Stillen Sport Rotor Sets: 90-94 NA, 90-91 Turbo Front, TOY1100, $226.69 Rear, TOY1101, $263.25 92-94 Turbo Front, TOY1200, $299.00 Rear, TOY1201, $264.06 Stillen/Metal Master Brake Pads: 91-93 NA Front, D507M, $40.48 Rear, D766M, $62.93 92-94 Turbo Front, D789SM, $37.13 Rear, D766M, $62.93 Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 00:30:24 -0600 (CST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@iadfw.net (Bryan Carlson) Subject: 91 MR2 Turbo I am about to make some modifications to my car in order to increase performance. My goal is to maximize the potential of the car without reducing drivability and reliability. Here is what has been suggested. the Greddy Profec, and Greddy Fule Cut Eliminator so that I can get more boost from the turbo Nology Hot Wires, and Beru Silver Plugs and also a Nology Power Core, and a Nology Coil. to upgrade the ignition and insure a hot spark. Is this about it? Will this get me what I want. ( I really don't need that much more pwer and with the adjustable boost I can dial up what I need depending on weather and driving conditions) I was considering switching wheels but I am not sure what I could gain without making the speedometer inaacurate or compromising the ride of the car. Anyone have any suggestions there. What are the best grabbing tires that fit the 91' alloys? I still will need some all weather ability (wet mainly, not much snow in Texas) Thanks, Bryan Carlson 91' Black MR2 MkII Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 96 18:04:17 0000 From: Sean Simmen To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Want to mod a '93 MR2 Hi, a friend wanted me to ask you guys for some help- he just bought a '93 non-turbo MR2. He wants to know what tire and wheel mods are available (15"-18"?) and what the trade offs are. Next he wants to know about after market brakes and if the '93 turbo calipers and rotors fit on his '93 non-turbo. He also wants to know if it is possible to install the '93 turbo transmission and rear end. Are there any suspension upgrades, too? And last, but not least, a shift kit. Why didn't he just buy a turbo? Well, he's 23 with lots of tickets and the insurance company laughed at him when he asked for a quote :-) Thanks for any help! Sean '80 928 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 15:57:28 EST From: "Christopher T. Berchin" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Hello! I'm a new member of the Toyota-mods list. I'm a Product Design Engineer for one of the Big Three, I live in Dearborn, Michigan, and I have a 1988 Toyota MR2 with a 4A-GE engine. I have a TRD header, Monza exhaust, K&N air intake system, and Addco anti-sway bars. I will be installing camshafts, large injectors, and adjustible cam gears this summer, and I participate in Solo II events locally. I have tinked with Hondas in the past (1st-gen CRXs to be specific) and now am learning how to speak Toyota. I look forward to the info on this board! Christopher T. Berchin Closures Panel Technology Phone: (313) 31-74946 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com Fax: (313) 84-55424 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 16:58:37 -0500 (EST) From: Roy Mongiovi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Trust exhausts? Does anyone have any (educated) opinions on the quality and performance of Trust exhausts? Thanks. Roy xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 14:48:00 -0800 (PST) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Turbocharger Problem To: "'Cal'" , kca , Well, more on this turbo problem. I went out today and went for a ride in the car ..... we spent about 1/2 an hour doing start/stop runs ... trying to hear this darn noise ... and to tell you the truth .. I couldn't really hear it!! The mechanic said it was more noticable with the airbox undone ... Well, even if I can't hear it ... I'll assume it's still there. It apparently happens from about -10 to 0 (he tested with a manual vaccum/boost gauge). There is also a hesitation when the turbo kicks in .... this was the only thing I found noticable and a worry. The noise also apparently happens when you take your foot off the gas under high boost, but wait ... it doesn't always make the noise!!! Other than that, the boost seems fine .... after the hesitation, it pulls hard and constant ... he said it's max is about 9psi. So ... here's a summary of the posts I got back: From Thomas F. Wahjudi: > Does it lose turbo pressure at "working" rpm (higher rpm) also ? It might be > a > faulty blowoff valve or maybe leaks between the valve and intake tract. Hmm, well, he's checked for leaks and found two... and fixed them. Yes the turbo seems to have no performance problems .. appart from the hesitation when it kicks in. From Kip Anderson: > Is this a continuous/recurring noise under boost? No, just the turbo whine ... I assume it's normal as I'm not use to turbos : ) > How's it run at idle and when not on-boost? idle is ok .. not SUPER smooth though, nothing i would pick as a problem though ..... when not on-boost is smooth and fine. > Is the power down when under boost? No, doesn't seem to be : ) (weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee) > Could the sound be described as more of a "pop" than a "bang"? beats me ... I couldn't really pick it out ... it's like trying to spot a teeny tiny weeny little plane WAAAAAAAAAAAY up high in the clouds. > Timing belt been replaced? it's got 49K kms ... I would think not (they don't do those sorts of things in japan) > I honestly don't have a clue what the sound could be coming from by the way > you > describe it. Can you provide better details? From Kostas G. D. Chryssos > There is NO PROBLEM there, I'm starting to believe this one. > the noise is correct. It is the pressure release > valve that pops open when the gass pedal is released so there is NO > overpressure exersised on the butterfly of the air intake. what about the noise when boost builds up and the hesitation (which occur about the same time)? >This valve sits > on the tube going from the turbo to the intercooler, and releives pressure > to the tube into the turbo, it has two small rubber tubes which control it > from the plenum. The clasping sound comes from the air relieved into the > turbo input slaming closed the air flow measuring unit flap sitting on the > air filter. hmmm, a picture is worth a thousand words ... sigh From Gerald San Agustin: > maybe the turbo itself is going bad and the bearings are worn to a point > where the compressor > blade is hitting the turbo housing. Disconnect the turbo inlet pipe and > check for any free play > on the turbo shaft. He did this ... he said there was a little bit of freeplay ... but no hitting apparent. From Scott MacLean > My 91T did this, and I have heard a LOT of other Turbo owners who report > the exact same symptom. My mechanic worked on it for a good 10 hours > trying to figure it out (at a Toyota dealership, no less). There never > really has been a definitive answer on the mailing list as to what > causes it, or why some do it and some don't. But it doesn't seem to > affect performance at ALL. My educated guess is that it is the > wastegate, and some simply make noise, and others don't. Hmmm, this one sounds pretty good to me!!!!!! Would a wastegate make this noise at the start of boost? and would it be responsible for the hesitation? Well ... is that enough for you all to cope with? Sounds like this fantom noise is nothing to worry about... seeing as everything else checks out ok. I think I need to read a book on how turbos work .. I've read so much on bits and pieces of them .. I just need to look at the whole picture now. Any more ideas/opinions/etc would be most welcome : ) Please reply directly to me. Thanks heaps Ade adem@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand PS. is there any way to test the pop-off and wastegates? PPS. the cat has been removed (no emission laws here ... yet!) .. would this affect the turbo?/backpressure? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 20:39:23 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: SOB! (*WOB?*) As some may know, I'm in the market for an old hatchback Celica, one of the 75-77 flavor. There is one on my way to work which has just been sitting in the driveway of this new home which was built. Today I stopped by, knocked on the door, and asked the owner if he would sell it. He said "no!" I told him I had lots of money and other cars that I could offer, and he said "nah." He's the original owner of this beautiful 77. I'm going to start stopping by on my way home from work every couple of days with larger offers until my bank account expires or he weakens. I've wanted one of these cars since they were new, back when I was a young kid in junior high. If anyone knows where I can find one of these, I am interested. I'm looking for a solid body, but if I could find one that was a little messed up for cheap I'd pick it up for parts. Beth, maybe Jeff has one that he'd part with? Anxiously waiting... Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 20:46:46 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Tire Help I know this thread gets kicked around from time to time, but I have a friend that is looking for a recommendation for a good racing tire. Unfortunately, tires I know nothing about! He wants a "semi-slick competition tire" and mentioned the BFgoodrich Comp T/A R1. Does anyone know about these tires and/or have some opinion on their performance? He is doing wheel to wheel road racing in a Hyundai Accent (hey, it's Korea!). Thanks for any help... Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 17:35:08 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Tire Help From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Thu Feb 22 17:23:47 1996 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 20:46:46 -0500 From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Tire Help >I know this thread gets kicked around from time to time, but I have a >friend that is looking for a recommendation for a good racing tire. >Unfortunately, tires I know nothing about! He wants a "semi-slick >competition tire" and mentioned the BFgoodrich Comp T/A R1. Does >anyone know about these tires and/or have some opinion on their >performance? He is doing wheel to wheel road racing in a Hyundai >Accent (hey, it's Korea!). I'd like to say that I used the R1 series old and new. The Autocrossing compound is WAAAAY too soft. It heats up and becomes mush after 2 laps. Get the roadracing compound. There was a study and article about it recently in some magazine. They recommended the Road Racing Compound also. I currently still use my Yokohama A008's for daily street driving however, have bought a set of Road Racing R1's a few months ago. They both work great, but I belive the R1's are slightly faster and work better, as shown that they are recommended tires by the Skip Barber Sedan Racing School (where you learn to take your car to the limits) One major note is that your friend is in Korea. I belive the compounds are different. In The Orient, Yokohama sucks, and the US Yokohama is way better (for the A008's at least) the Advan Nexus IS the tire. I would go with Potenza though, they are cheap and work fairly reliable if its the same one as from Japan (they aren't DOT approved) I'd suggest Advan Nexus if he wants to get serious nuff or Potenza's for the track. >Thanks for any help... >Chris Heh, see... I replied Chris =) \ -Allen T Koji Kam koji@i-one.com 1993 Rollerblade Tarmac xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 22 Feb 96 23:19:22 EST From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: MR2's I have a 1991 MR2 Turbo. What is the difference between the '91-'92 and the '93-'95 Turbo MR2's? Also, were the newer Turbo MR2's outlawed in California? I haven't seen one out here. Alex xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 22:13:53 -0800 (PST) From: Phillip Dang To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List Subject: figuring out max advance on 3S-FE Hi all, What information would I need to figure out the maximum advance on a 3S-FE (found on late 80s Celicas and Camrys)? In other words, how far can I safely set the timing before I risk putting a hole in the piston. The timing marks on the engine only go to 15. Standard timing for the 3S-FE is 10 degrees BTDC. I'm running 13,14, or 15 (forget) degrees BTDC without any pinging. BTW, my Celica does not have a knock sensor. Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 99K miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: ptdang@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: figuring out max advance on 3S-FE Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 0:46:51 PST From: Phillip Dang > >Hi all, > >What information would I need to figure out the maximum advance on a >3S-FE (found on late 80s Celicas and Camrys)? In other words, how far can >I safely set the timing before I risk putting a hole in the piston. > >The timing marks on the engine only go to 15. Standard timing for the >3S-FE is 10 degrees BTDC. I'm running 13,14, or 15 (forget) degrees >BTDC without any pinging. BTW, my Celica does not have a knock sensor. > >Phil >ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 99K miles Run your car advance enough until it pings, then back off a degree or two. I have one of these timing lights with the little dial. I timed a friend's brand new Altima with the dial set to the factory specs and the arrow was dead on at 0 degrees. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 01:22:40 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: M-Series Motor / Crank My quick comment on the M Series motor. Chris sorta mentioned to me that Supra owners etc etc would love it if they could fit a 7M crank into a 4 - 5M block. My question is.... Why would you want to ? About 3 years ago at an HKS Seminar, they talked briefly about the advances they made with HKS 1. Apparently, they went with a 5M block, bored it out and shoved a 7M head on it. Mainly they were blowing motors after every race/run. Something about the 5M crank being more "squared" or such then the 7M. I'll try and find my old notes about this, but if you start with the 5M block, and bore it out, the crank will be more balanced I belive. You can flame me on this, however, thats what they told me. -shrug- -Allen T Koji Kam 1987 FX 16 GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 07:31:47 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods *** Resending note of 02/23/96 07:27 Hi! I'm re-subscribing under a new ID. I'll be testing this to make sure it works all the time... I had trouble getting the system to hook up. Dave 1986 MR2, Silver daucott@e-mail.com, golf1par@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 11:10:35 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: Tire Help Consumers Reports rated them good for a "performance' tires. I have a set but can't say how they would be for racing since I have not pushed them. I think there were better tires for cornering and control but I pick these because they had excellent wet road traction. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Tire Help Author: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/22/96 9:00 PM I know this thread gets kicked around from time to time, but I have a friend that is looking for a recommendation for a good racing tire. Unfortunately, tires I know nothing about! He wants a "semi-slick competition tire" and mentioned the BFgoodrich Comp T/A R1. Does anyone know about these tires and/or have some opinion on their performance? He is doing wheel to wheel road racing in a Hyundai Accent (hey, it's Korea!). Thanks for any help... Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 10:14:46 -0800 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Paseo Tranmission To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I'm in need of another 5 speed manual trans out of a '92-'94 Paseo The trans model number is C-150... Any sources ? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 23 Feb 96 16:34:40 EST Subject: Re: Tire Help The B.F. Goodrich Comp T/A R1 is THE tire for bush league/grassroots motorsports in the US. Anytime a DOT (Department of Transportation)-legal tire is required for a racing class, the R1 is the tire of choice. All but a few folks run anything else for SCCA Pro Solo or SCCA Showroom Stock (SSA, SSB, and SSC) road racing. Certainly there can be more than one reason even for an overwhelming popularity, and reasons can be other than that something's simply the best. In this case, it's also the best tire for certain classes of racing. One of the tire's attractions is it's asymmetrical carcass, and stiff outer sidewall construction. The tire requires less wheel camber, so it's a tire that's especially desirable where it might be difficult to get more needed camber and also stay inside of some class rules. At one time there were a couple of different compounds available, but last year they only offered one, the 230. The softer 226 was discontinued much to dismay of autocross/Solo II folks. The 226 was not a road racing tire, it was very soft and designed to get up to temperature very quickly. Yokohama still offers two compounds of the A-008, the RS and the RS II. But again, comparatively few folks, certainly in the pro ranks, are racing on these. I currently run the road racing Yokohamas on one of my cars and really don't have any complaints. The BFG R1 and Yokohamas are just about the same price for the same tire size, so there's not a price issue between the two. Recently, Toyo has made a entre into this tire class and some folks have given them a try, but I don't know the results. Then there are the non-DOT legal tires, but that's another topic altogether--slicks like the those made by Hoosier, and the ubiquitous Goodyear Eagles. As a point of interest, one of the BFG racing tire designers was in the autocross Internet list and was happy to field questions. That person isn't me. And I'm not tryin' to sell the things. Oh, just a few more things, there's quite a lot of support available, at least here in the US, from BFG. There's a newsletter, tech support, etc. Also, to purchase the tires you need to be a member of team T/A. It doesn't cost anything to join--you just fill out a form, send it in, and you get a membership card back that plugs you into the program. Have fun, - Steven ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Tire Help Author: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/22/96 9:00 PM I know this thread gets kicked around from time to time, but I have a friend that is looking for a recommendation for a good racing tire. Unfortunately, tires I know nothing about! He wants a "semi-slick competition tire" and mentioned the BFgoodrich Comp T/A R1. Does anyone know about these tires and/or have some opinion on their performance? He is doing wheel to wheel road racing in a Hyundai Accent (hey, it's Korea!). Thanks for any help... Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 20:49:19 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: SOB! (*WOB?*) Many folks are surprised that I haven't been able to find a early-model Celica hatchback where I am. The problem is that when you live in Florida, especially on the coast, everything rots unless you keep it in the garage. Unfortunately, 20 year old "sport-economy" cars don't rate a garage spot for most folks. As Koji can attest, the place to go car shopping is in the desert, like in Las Vegas where his dad lives. His dad owns more classic cars and hot rods than most people have pairs of underwear. The funny part is that I'm not kidding! The streets of Las Vegas of full of beautiful old iron, and I'm sure that if I lived there I'd have a stable full too. Charles F. wrote me and mentioned that he is hogging _3_ of these babies for himself in San Antonio, Texas. Some guys have all the luck! Charles, you should get an 18RG from Jeff at Toyz Unlimited and drop into one of those Celica's of yours for an extra thrill. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 18:05:21 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Fri Feb 23 17:56:40 1996 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 20:49:19 -0500 From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: SOB! (*WOB?*) >Many folks are surprised that I haven't been able to find a early-model >Celica hatchback where I am. The problem is that when you live in >Florida, especially on the coast, everything rots unless you keep it >in the garage. Unfortunately, 20 year old "sport-economy" cars don't >rate a garage spot for most folks. Heh, I have a "Toyota ECM" from a 1977 Celica GT Liftback rusting in the garage. Nice overhead display and several other nice lights. I think thats what its called. >As Koji can attest, the place to go car shopping is in the desert, >like in Las Vegas where his dad lives. His dad owns more classic cars >and hot rods than most people have pairs of underwear. The funny part >is that I'm not kidding! The streets of Las Vegas of full of beautiful >old iron, and I'm sure that if I lived there I'd have a stable full >too. Heh yeah...try living in Hawaii, we got more Salt air den anything else Heh, yeah...goto the desert or like some country place where they got no snow and little rain etc etc. Best deals on "imports" found there. Friend picked up a 1990 Turbo Supra in Nebraska or something... for like $4000 with leather interior and sports top. -boggle- Yeah, Dad has a lot of Hot Rod's V8's etc etc, thats why i'm not impressed by them much =) Maybe next time Chris... we'll go and take a nice cruise =) >Charles F. wrote me and mentioned that he is hogging _3_ of these >babies for himself in San Antonio, Texas. Some guys have all the >luck! Charles, you should get an 18RG from Jeff at Toyz Unlimited >and drop into one of those Celica's of yours for an extra thrill. Heh, that 18RG motor is damm kewl =) Although, parts ? They still available ? >Chris -Allen T Koji Kam 1987 Toyota FX-16 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 23:09:45 -0800 From: Joe Ernst To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 5MGE/7MGE interchangeability / Differential Questions I am wondering if the 5MGE engine out of my '84 Supra can be replaced with the 7MGE, or any other larger displacement engine. I am relatively unfamiliar with Toyota engines, so if anyone can describe the differences/similarities between the families of engines, I would appreciate it. Also, if any internal parts (cranks, rods, pistons) can be swapped to gain cc's, or compression,that may help. Also, does anyone have any comments on the Supra differential? Mine may need to be replaced soon, and since I am going to make performance upgrades, I should replace the differential with something strong enough to handle some added HP. Did any Toyotas come from the factory with limited slip differentials? Thanks, Joe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 08:52:09 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Steve Bagdon Location : Ferndale, MI (First city _north_ of Detroit, MI, by 1 1/2 blocks) Model : '85 MR2 NA, '91 MR2 Turbo Engine : 4AGE, 3S-GTE Mods : None on the '85, being parted out. Just bought the '91 last month email : bagdon@rust.net bagdon@rust.net Katharine and Steve Bagdon ----------- '85 N/A 169,000 miles (being parted out) '91 Turbo 77,000 miles (being enjoyed to the fullest) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon/mr2.html xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: 5MGE/7MGE interchangeability / Differential Questions To: joeje@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Joe Ernst) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 17:21:57 +0200 (EET) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > I am wondering if the 5MGE engine out of my '84 Supra can be replaced > with the 7MGE, or any other larger displacement engine. Yes it can. I'd recommend the 7M-GTE. Read Reg's report on his upgrade: http://www.magicnet.net/~joeg/turbo_mag/83supra.html > I am relatively unfamiliar with Toyota engines, so if anyone can describe > the differences/similarities between the families of engines, I would > appreciate it. Thou shall look through my home pages, there is plenty of info on Toyotas and the engines in particular. > Also, if any internal parts (cranks, rods, pistons) can be swapped to > gain cc's, or compression,that may help. In case of M series engines, this may be possible but probably not beneficial. > Also, does anyone have any comments on the Supra differential? Mine may > need to be replaced soon, and since I am going to make performance > upgrades, I should replace the differential with something strong enough > to handle some added HP. > > Did any Toyotas come from the factory with limited slip differentials? Yes, lots of them. Most Supras came with one. A stock Toyota diff in good condition will be strong enough. But if you have $'s to spend, you could get the TRD one which has "tighter" limited slip function. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 19:06:45 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From cmyer@cyberauto.com Sat Feb 24 17:56:31 1996 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 22:05:32 -0500 From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) >Yes, the owner of the car I looked at mentioned this. What is it? >Some sort of a digital display or something? He mentioned that his >was getting sort of "worn out" or going dim or something. Correct, it monitored several functions. Can't remeber exactly.. But I belive it only did come with the liftback models. >Chris -Koji xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 21:47:35 -0800 (PST) From: Phillip Dang To: Gary Hong Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: figuring out max advance on 3S-FE On Fri, 23 Feb 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > > Run your car advance enough until it pings, then back off a degree or two. > This is the method I do use. Does anyone have an actual number they may provide for maximum timing advance? It's not like I run racing fuel or anything, but somehow I'd like to get most power out of this family-car oriented motor without risking damage. Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 99K miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: GThomp4313@aol.com Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 07:24:51 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: ME/MINE/MODS Troy Thompson PO Box 44786 Rio Rancho NM 87124 I am employed at the Santa Anna Star Casino located on the outskirts of Albq. NM. I have a 1994 Toyota Supra Turbo Black With Tan interior, which I purchased new 2.5 years ago. The following is a list of the modifications that I have done to my car. 1. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: joeje@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 5MGE/7MGE interchangeability / Differential Questions Date: Sun, 25 Feb 96 4:29:04 PST From: Joe Ernst > >I am wondering if the 5MGE engine out of my '84 Supra can be replaced >with the 7MGE, or any other larger displacement engine. Joe, you can swap the 5MGE with a 7MGE. If you are going to do that, you might was well put in the 7MGTE. You may need to modify the oil pan though. Reg Reimer on the supra list has done this. His car is featured in Turbo and European Car mag. A few other guys have done this conversion on the supra list. Image, an 84 supra doing 11-12 second quarter mile. 0-60 in 5.x seconds. Gary Ps. I hope you don't live in CA. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: GThomp4313@aol.com Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 07:40:02 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: ME/Mine /Mods Troy Thompson PO Box 44786 Rio Rancho, New Mexico I am employed at the Santa Anna Star Casino (I work in the live games area) I have a black 1994 Twin Turbo Supra with tan interior. The following is a list of modifications that I have done. 1.Ebach springs 2.R.S. Akimoto exhaust 3.HKS EVC 4.Greedy Turbo Timer 5.Fuel cut defencer 6.Superchips computerchip 7.R.S Akimoto intake 8.I have also removed the top speed limiter. Sitting in a box waiting to be installed. is: 1. NOS (I can't remember the exact HP but it is under 70 2. Blow-off valve 3. Stillen drilled rotors with pads. I have on back order from Eurox straight pipes. I also found a company in Cal. that will that my existing throttle body and map it enlarge it etc. (I drilled holes in it for the nitros so I can not do an exchange). I am waiting for HKS to come out with thier VPC for the Automatic. I have two freinds in ALBQ. with Supras that have installed the above mentioned items on thier cars, and have had imense gains. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 13:13:07 -0500 (EST) From: Kevin Bruce Subject: Can Toy-Mods be set to Digest? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Is there any way that the Toyota-mods mailing list be set to Digest? Have regular Toyota mailing list set to digest and this is a great benefit. Thanks. Kevin Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 15:19:08 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: figuring out max advance on 3S-FE >This is the method I do use. Does anyone have an actual number they may >provide for maximum timing advance? > >It's not like I run racing fuel or anything, but somehow I'd like to get >most power out of this family-car oriented motor without risking damage. Well, there's not a specific number or anything like that. Every little thing will affect the point at which pre-detonation occurs, for example: fuel octane outside air temperature engine operating temperature atmospheric conditions Carbon buildup in cylinders All of these things change randomly. Setting your timing exactly to the point where predetonation occurs and then backing off until it quits is a good theory, and one that I share with people all the time myself, but you must realize that any little change in any of the variables above will have you back out of perfect timing. Not only that, but it is really difficult to check and adjust your timing under load, which is where pinging occurs. I never could get my race car to ping under idle, even if I cranked it around to 25 degrees of idle advance (over 45 degrees of advance at 5000 rpm!) So, what's the answer? Well, it's just one of those very soft sciences, one that must be learned by practice and experience rather than read from a book. I wouldn't say that I'm great at it myself. If you had a rolling road dyno, you could set the timing to be absolutely perfect at a given rpm. Unfortunately, let any of the above variable change and you're again "less than perfect." Someday, when CAP has a rolling road dyno, we'll publish a nice handy list of "general best case" timing settings which should give good power under all situations. BTW, you mentioned that you didn't want to burn a hole in a piston. Actually, the much more tragic scenario when timing gets out of whack is bent rods, broken pistons, or broken cranks, from the slamming of the flamefront into the rising piston (that's the "ping" anyway.) Very awesome to see. I've seen cranks busted cleanly in two from this. I've also seen a rod that was saved from busting (and going through the side of an engine) when the operator heard the strong pinging and immediately shut the motor down. It is difficult to describe the rod with words, but on one side of the I-beam a part was broken completely off, and the other side was curved and about to break. Being fast on the off-switch meant this guy only had to buy one rod and rebuild the motor. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Supercharged engines To: AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Adrienne Mora) Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 01:46:10 +0200 (EET) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > Ok, now a while ago some of you (think it was Koji and Gerald) mentioned > that there are two versions of the SCed engine (4AGZE). One with two coils > and more HP ... and a 'normal' one. Me and my boyfriend are going to be > building a lotus 7 replica and want to put in a 4AGZE .... we've got a bit > of time before the kit arrives (in september) to collect parts so we thought > we'd find out more about this higher HP one!! : ) So far we know that it > has two coils and more HP .... what other differences are there? what about > the pulleys?? How can we tell from looking at the engine (say, at a > wreckers) if it's the hotter one? (if the coils are not with it anymore). Compression ratio is higher in the 163hp version (8.9:1 vs 8.0:1). I'd expect the distributor to be different looking (or completely missing). -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 20:56:25 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Steve Bagdon Location : Ferndale, MI Model : '85 MR2 NA, '91 MR2 Turbo Engine : 4AGE, 3S-GTE(?) Mods : none email : bagdon@rust.net bagdon@rust.net Katharine and Steve Bagdon ----------- '85 N/A 169,000 miles (being parted out) '91 Turbo 77,000 miles (being enjoyed to the fullest) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon/mr2.html xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 12:10:19 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: Kevin Bruce Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Can Toy-Mods be set to Digest? On Sun, 25 Feb 1996, Kevin Bruce wrote: > Is there any way that the Toyota-mods mailing list be set to Digest? Have > regular Toyota mailing list set to digest and this is a great benefit. Thanks. > Kevin Bruce Tis on my todo list at some stage...unfortunately my new job has prevented me from persuing this. Hopefully in the not too distant future I will get around to setting this up. (Oh for an extra few hours each day :( Cheers, Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 21:29:37 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: 91 MR2 Turbo >I am about to make some modifications to my car in order to increase >performance. My goal is to maximize the potential of the car without >reducing drivability and reliability. >Here is what has been suggested. > >the Greddy Profec, and Greddy Fule Cut Eliminator > >so that I can get more boost from the turbo Good start! >Nology Hot Wires, and Beru Silver Plugs and also a Nology Power Core, and a >Nology Coil. Avoid these--big con job! Get a good spiral-core ignition wire, such as those from Magnecor, and use NGK plugs. Did the folks that tried to sell these to you mention that they're not technically street legal? Did they talk about how they'll throw your ECU into a dither and make the idle start breaking up? Probably not. If you need more spark than a good set of plug wires can provide, go with a Crane ignition box and coil. All of this is going to leave you with a bunch of money that would have been wasted with the Nology/Beru setup. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 22:16:28 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Trust exhausts? >Does anyone have any (educated) opinions on the quality and performance >of Trust exhausts? Thanks. Uh, depends on what you call educated! ;-) Seriously, the GReddy/Trust exhausts are probably the best you can get for the cars for which they are made. The problem (as Dave Aucott points out) is that they are currently very hard to get! Last time I checked they were 6-8 weeks out for the MR2, and that wasn't a promise! Fortunately, the HKS exhaust is nearly identical in design and quality. Chris -- Christopher P. Myer Cyberspace Automotive Performance www.cyberauto.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 22:30:31 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: M-Series Motor / Crank >My quick comment on the M Series motor. > >Chris sorta mentioned to me that Supra owners etc etc would love >it if they could fit a 7M crank into a 4 - 5M block. > >My question is.... > >Why would you want to ? Well, because it would add about .2 liters to a 5M motor. Putting the 5M pistons and 7M crank in a 4m would net you .4 liters, a 20% increase in displacement! >Apparently, they went with a 5M block, bored it out and shoved a 7M >head on it. >Mainly they were blowing motors after every race/run. >Something about the 5M crank being more "squared" or such then the 7M. I don't know about this. I'm not talking about boring the 5M any more though, since the stock 5M and 7M are the same size bore. I think that if you did it carefully you'd get fairly cheap added displacement. This is important in places that didn't get the 7M motor, or don't have very many of them. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Golf1par@aol.com Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 22:41:55 -0500 ve the unique opportunity to obtain a SECOND '86 MR2 for next to nothing. The body is solid and the price irresistable, but it's an AUTO!!! Now, I appreciate those who like autos, and in certain traffic jams they're well worth it, but I don't want one! I'm just wondering... how difficult would the switch be from auto to 5-speed in an '86 MR2? I've done the switch in an early Z car, but of course that's totally different. Is there anything in the computer, layout, etc. that would prevent this from being a simple "scrap the old" and "put in the new" exercise?? I realize I need a trans, cables, pedals, trim, clutch, lines, slave, master cyl, bolts.... Has anyone done this? d:] Dave 1986 MR2 - hey, it was 60 degrees here today!! Won't be long now... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 05:55:24 +0000 Subject: Stereo Code I don't think I worded my other message too well (:~ The" SEC" ONLY FLASHES ON START-UP. The system works normally. I want to try to change the code without putting myself in a position where it is locked up because I can't exit the re-program sequence without the magic missing numbers. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 05:08:06 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Steve Bagdon Location : Ferndale, MI Model : '85 MR2 NA, '91 MR2 Turbo Engine : 4AGE, 3S-GTE(?) Mods : none email : bagdon@rust.net bagdon@rust.net Katharine and Steve Bagdon ----------- '85 N/A 169,000 miles (being parted out) '91 Turbo 77,000 miles (being enjoyed to the fullest) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon/mr2.html xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 08:55:29 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Trust Exhausts >>Uh, depends on what you call educated! ;-) Seriously, the GReddy/Trust >>exhausts are probably the best you can get for the cars for which they >>are made. The problem (as Dave Aucott points out) is that they are >>currently very hard to get! Last time I checked they were 6-8 weeks >>out for the MR2, and that wasn't a promise! Fortunately, the HKS >>exhaust is nearly identical in design and quality. Yes, they are hard to get... some guy in Texas is probably enjoying mine right now. As Chris and I are painfully aware, people sometimes will help themselves to packages in transit. My Greddy pipe (the only one the distributor had) was "lifted" from the UPS truck on it's way here from California. Many thanks to Chris and Cyberspace Automotive for standing behind their products, and I'll let you all know how good the HKS pipe is this spring. Dave 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com, golf1par@aol.com .............. G. Dave Aucott 1998 FN145 Structures 32-39181 Internet: daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Mon, 26 Feb 96 09:16:32 CST To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, koji@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re[2]: SOB (*WOB?*) I think all of mine are faulty. The indicate I have problems which are not correct. The device monitors the car and indicates failures. Some of the things it checks are: Brake lining wear Engine oil level Window washer level Radiator reservoir level Brake and Clutch fluid Lights? ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) Author: Allen T Koji Kam at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/24/96 11:34 PM From cmyer@cyberauto.com Sat Feb 24 17:56:31 1996 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 22:05:32 -0500 From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) >Yes, the owner of the car I looked at mentioned this. What is it? >Some sort of a digital display or something? He mentioned that his >was getting sort of "worn out" or going dim or something. Correct, it monitored several functions. Can't remeber exactly.. But I belive it only did come with the liftback models. >Chris -Koji xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 10:40:22 -0500 (EST) From: "mitchell r. baghdoian" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Me: Mitch Baghdoian Ann Arbor, Michigan (Mechanical Engineering) Mine/Mods: 86 MR2- stock 86 MR2- parts car 85 Corolla GTS- stock, w/189,000 miles (winter car) 85 Corolla GTS- on its way to becoming a trailered auto-x machine (but that damn money thing keeps things going slowly) 89 CRX Si- HKS intake, cat-back exhaust (oops, wrong list) My better half's / Mods: 86 MR2- K&N, 2.5" exhaust w/superloud (I mean supertrapp), Tokico Illuminas, TRD busings, adjustable swaybars (I forgot the brand), springs cut 1/2 coil, lotsa camber on all four corners 85 Corolla GTS- cat-back exhaust (winter car) Engines: 4A-GE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Mon, 26 Feb 96 10:38:10 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re[2]: SOB (*WOB?*) I think all of mine are faulty. They indicate I have problems which are not correct. The device monitors the car and indicates failures. Some of the things it checks are: Brake lining wear Engine oil level Window washer level Radiator reservoir level Brake and Clutch fluid Lights? ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) Author: Allen T Koji Kam at INTERNET-HUB Date: 2/23/96 10:37 PM From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Fri Feb 23 17:56:40 1996 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 20:49:19 -0500 From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: SOB! (*WOB?*) >Many folks are surprised that I haven't been able to find a early-model >Celica hatchback where I am. The problem is that when you live in >Florida, especially on the coast, everything rots unless you keep it >in the garage. Unfortunately, 20 year old "sport-economy" cars don't >rate a garage spot for most folks. Heh, I have a "Toyota ECM" from a 1977 Celica GT Liftback rusting in the garage. Nice overhead display and several other nice lights. I think thats what its called. >As Koji can attest, the place to go car shopping is in the desert, >like in Las Vegas where his dad lives. His dad owns more classic cars >and hot rods than most people have pairs of underwear. The funny part >is that I'm not kidding! The streets of Las Vegas of full of beautiful >old iron, and I'm sure that if I lived there I'd have a stable full >too. Heh yeah...try living in Hawaii, we got more Salt air den anything else Heh, yeah...goto the desert or like some country place where they got no snow and little rain etc etc. Best deals on "imports" found there. Friend picked up a 1990 Turbo Supra in Nebraska or something... for like $4000 with leather interior and sports top. -boggle- Yeah, Dad has a lot of Hot Rod's V8's etc etc, thats why i'm not impressed by them much =) Maybe next time Chris... we'll go and take a nice cruise =) >Charles F. wrote me and mentioned that he is hogging _3_ of these >babies for himself in San Antonio, Texas. Some guys have all the >luck! Charles, you should get an 18RG from Jeff at Toyz Unlimited >and drop into one of those Celica's of yours for an extra thrill. Heh, that 18RG motor is damm kewl =) Although, parts ? They still available ? >Chris -Allen T Koji Kam 1987 Toyota FX-16 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 13:09:10 -0500 (EST) From: "mitchell r. baghdoian" To: seldon Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: me/mine/mods Hi Kieth. I dunno about swapping in a late model turbo motor (sounds expensive to me), but you can get a replacement motor for about $650 delivered to your door. Call K. Watanabe (it's an 800 number that you can get from the 1-800 information line) in L.A. and tell him what you need. The motor will be about $400, plus $50 for the core, plus about $150 for crating and shipping. I got one delivered to my door for $652. I pulled it down and it was clean and within specs, so I stuffed it into my girlfriends car. That was a couple years and nearly 40K miles ago. Hope this helps. Mitch in MI On Mon, 26 Feb 1996, seldon wrote: > Hey, I'm keith o'toole, I live in overland park, ks (suburban Kansas City) > and have an 86 MR2 normally aspirated with auto. It has the basic 4A-GE > engine with no mods and 100k+. I am now in need of a new engine thanks to a > faulty oil pump and a lead foot. I'm wondering what it would take to get a > late model engine w/turbo into my engine bay, but then I'd still be stuck > with the auto (well, anyone else converted auto to stick?) so I may just sell > it off and buy a cheap 91 turbo or 88-89 supercharged. you can reach me at: > > seldon@inf.net > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 13:31:04 -0500 (EST) From: "mitchell r. baghdoian" To: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: Re[2]: SOB (*WOB?*) > > Heh, that 18RG motor is damm kewl =) > > Although, parts ? They still available ? > > >Chris > > -Allen T Koji Kam > 1987 Toyota FX-16 > I believe you can get virtually any 18RG ot 2TG part you want through TRD. Mitch in MI xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 96 10:39:32 PST From: asano@rambus.com (Richard Asano) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: SOB (*WOB?*) >I think all of mine are faulty. The indicate I have problems which are not >correct. The device monitors the car and indicates failures. Some of the >things it checks are: >Brake lining wear >Engine oil level >Window washer level >Radiator reservoir level >Brake and Clutch fluid >Lights? > >______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ >Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) >Author: Allen T Koji Kam at INTERNET-HUB >Date: 2/24/96 11:34 PM > >>From cmyer@cyberauto.com Sat Feb 24 17:56:31 1996 >Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 22:05:32 -0500 >From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) >Subject: RE: SOB (*WOB?*) > >>Yes, the owner of the car I looked at mentioned this. What is it? >>Some sort of a digital display or something? He mentioned that his >>was getting sort of "worn out" or going dim or something. > >Correct, it monitored several functions. > >Can't remeber exactly.. > >But I belive it only did come with the liftback models. I know it came in both the liftback and coupe models in '76 and '77. I don't remember about the other years. The brake lining wear sensor was stupid. When the brake lining wore down, the sensor would wear away until it was open circuit. That would tell you to change the brake linings. Then you would have to replace the sensors at a cost of ~$40-45. I thinking of modifying the circuit, but never got around to it. I kept patching the sensor, but it never worked very well. I ended up tying off the wires. I loved the engine oil level indicator, window washer level, radiator coolant level, brake and clutch fluid levels. They also had a indicator for the battery. There was a special cap which screwed into one of the battery cells. The problem was when I bought a Diehard, I couldn't use it anymore. I had to tie the wire off to prevent it from aways telling me that the battery level was low. There was vacuum boost sensor. That was stupid since it would light up much of the time. The dealer said it was a smog problem and couldn't be helped. I still don't know if he was putting me on or not. Nevertheless that indicator bugged me the most since I couldn't do anything about it. Passengers would keep asking what was wrong and all I could say is, "Nothing!". The brake light indicator had me baffled for quite a while once. It didn't immediately come on. It finally dawned on me that one of the brake lights were out. Duh...... I still haven't figured out how they could sense that one of the two brake lights were out. There was also an indicator for the tail lights. This was useful once when my tail light fuse blew (from unexplained reasons). I wonder why they stopped putting in these indicators. Cost? The problems I noted could have been easily fixed. I know the low oil light would be really nice for my wife who refuses to check the oil and uses the oil pressure gauge to tell her the oil is low!!!!! Sigh..... Anyone want to buy an abused '83 Celica? Richard xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 13:41:15 -0500 (EST) From: "mitchell r. baghdoian" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Does TRD offer deals for competition cars? I'm building a DP auto-x corolla, and I was wondering if Toyota has some sort of sponsorship program for competition cars? Flipping through R&T (or was that Motor Trend?) I read an article about building an ITA RX-7. In the article they had a sidebar about Mazda reducing the costs of their parts by 30-50% for people using the parts on competition vehicles. The sent in pictures of thier car under construction and Voila!, cheap parts. That'd be great if toyota offers something similar. Anyone know one way or another? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 11:04:04 -0800 From: seldon To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Hey, I'm keith o'toole, I live in overland park, ks (suburban Kansas City) and have an 86 MR2 normally aspirated with auto. It has the basic 4A-GE engine with no mods and 100k+. I am now in need of a new engine thanks to a faulty oil pump and a lead foot. I'm wondering what it would take to get a late model engine w/turbo into my engine bay, but then I'd still be stuck with the auto (well, anyone else converted auto to stick?) so I may just sell it off and buy a cheap 91 turbo or 88-89 supercharged. you can reach me at: seldon@inf.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 11:36:00 -0800 (PST) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Supercharged engines To: "'MR2-digest'" , Ok, now a while ago some of you (think it was Koji and Gerald) mentioned that there are two versions of the SCed engine (4AGZE). One with two coils and more HP ... and a 'normal' one. Me and my boyfriend are going to be building a lotus 7 replica and want to put in a 4AGZE .... we've got a bit of time before the kit arrives (in september) to collect parts so we thought we'd find out more about this higher HP one!! : ) So far we know that it has two coils and more HP .... what other differences are there? what about the pulleys?? How can we tell from looking at the engine (say, at a wreckers) if it's the hotter one? (if the coils are not with it anymore). Koji, did you say you knew someone who'd source parts in Japan? Thanks heaps guys Ade adem@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... thinking a sequential turbo will be needed to keep up with an SCed lotus 7 replica!! ; ) (they only weigh 550kg!!) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 14:42:56 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: New members!!! Hi again!! First I want to apologize for the condition of my last post. For some reason the system chopped off the top few lines of my question about transplanting a standard transmission into an automatic 1986 MR2. I do hope someone has done this or seen it done to give me some idea if it's do-able. Secondly, I'm excited and pleased to see the addition of 3 new Toyota MR2/ Corolla GTS (heck, let's just say 4AGE) members from the SE Michigan area. It's great to know there are a few of us here, considering the low # of non USA nameplates in the area. Welcome! Dave 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com, golf1par@aol.com .............. G. Dave Aucott 1998 FN145 Structures 32-39181 Internet: daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 12:12:00 -0800 (PST) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: 4AGZE into '84 MR2? To: "'MR2-digest'" , Hi there Me again : ) A friend has an 84 MR2 ... 4AGE .. and wants to know if a 4AGZE will drop straight into his engine bay with no problems. His car is currently being rebuilt (remove rust, dents and repaint). Are the engine mounts different? We assume all he'll need is the wiring loom, engine, computer and to change the air intake to fit in the intercooler. Anyone done this? Thanks Ade adem@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand '86 SC T-Top MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 14:51:00 -0800 (PST) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Solved Turbo problems (?) To: "'MR2-digest'" , Hi there Well, I went back to the mechanic with all your "nothing is wrong" posts. He said that it appeared to be the airflow meter!! : ) He had previously tested the airflow meter with a multimeter to check that it was opening properly etc. (Does anyone have what the readings should be?? We'd like to check what they should be when the meter is open and closed .. and we don't have those Turbo manuals here in NZ ... thanks). Anyway, they decided to just check by putting an airflow meter from another MR2T into it .. and the problem was gone!! no more noise .. no more hesitation!! : ) (have you others tried this??) Anyway ... toyota here want $1100 for one (US$715) ... what are they worth in the US?? Thanks HEAPS for all your help trying to figure this problem out .. I hope it's helped shed some light on anyone else's problems!! : ) I owe you guys HEAPS : ) : ) : ) : ) : ) : ) Ade adem@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand '86 SC T-Top MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Feb 96 17:50:56 CST From: "Grace, Eric" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: FX16 Mods I have a 1988 FX16-GTS with a 4AGE and although I haven't previously been trying to modify it, I would like to do something to add more HP. I have been looking but I can't find many places with parts for this model. Can anybody help?? G> xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 26 Feb 96 19:01:34 EST Subject: Re: Does TRD offer deals for competition cars? Mazda Motorsports offers some attractive things. You have to be a member, but to join all you have to is just send in three of your racing results, driven in a Mazda of some type, each season and you can buy bits from them at what looks like close to their cost. I've got friends running RX-7's and GTX's who've enjoyed this benefit. The Dodge Neon racing program offers a similar, but more somewhat more restricted type of program. Toyota does have a contigency program. The current issue of the national SCCA magazine, Sports Car, lists contingency programs. I don't recall the details of the Toyota offering. For folks who are elsewhere than North America and those who may not be familiar, SCCA is the Sports Car Club of America. The scope of this large race-sanctioning group is North America'ish. This issue is also the racing car buyer's guide--uh, could I please have that Ralt RT-41 with a Cosworth engine, please, and I'm not picky about the color. Of some interest, there's a new small WSC/sports spec racing car that uses mostly MR2 suspension parts and an MR2 engine. Anyone can buy one. I'll be glad to look up details of anything I've mentioned in this post for anyone who's interested. - Steven baghdoiz @ engin.umich.edu ("mitchell r. baghdoian") 02/26/96 01:41 PM To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET cc: (bcc: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus) Subject: Does TRD offer deals for competition cars? I'm building a DP auto-x corolla, and I was wondering if Toyota has some sort of sponsorship program for competition cars? Flipping through R&T (or was that Motor Trend?) I read an article about building an ITA RX-7. In the article they had a sidebar about Mazda reducing the costs of their parts by 30-50% for people using the parts on competition vehicles. The sent in pictures of thier car under construction and Voila!, cheap parts. That'd be great if toyota offers something similar. Anyone know one way or another? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Starlet16v@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 22:46:40 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wheels......` Chris Myer Where can I get a set of Minilite rims? I have searched all over and still can't find a lead. Do you know where to find them or know of someone who does? Any help is appreciated. Radley 3 Starlets and counting................................. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tazitup@aol.com Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 00:20:02 -0500 a (Sami for short) Hanlon, and I live in Palm Beach, Florida. I have a 1987 MR2, loaded with all the toys, t-tops, standard (the only way to go), and power everything. It only has 79,000 miles on it, and it is in great shape. It is a great car (and toy), and I race anything that even looks like it wants to race me. I have been trying to decide whether I want to keep this car and upgrade it, or try to find a 88 or 89 supercharger in the same shape. Please help me to decide or let me know if there are any of the 88 or 89's out there for sale. That remindes me how many Superchargers are there? My windshield wipers wont work on the intermitted setting! Is this normal? My engine is the standard 4AGE, but I have raced other MR2's and beat them. So I don't know if the previous owner did anything to the engine. I would like any info on my car that anyone would be willing to share. Sami tazitup@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 01:45:26 -0800 To: Allen T Koji Kam , Subject: Re: Ordering from Japan - Just tried Cc: allanc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Feb 14, 1:12am, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: > Subject: Ordering from Japan - Just tried > Aloha... And a Banzai pipeline to you too... oooops, Hawaii humour. > Try call up TRD Japan direct, like someone named Roger did a long time ago. > They speak english rather well. Might get better luck with these folks *grin*. > After a while, have that fax machine ready, and they'll fax you over > anything you want. Hmmm, could we like get copies of their latest and greatest catalogs. They don't have old stuff do they? > One important note, is that they go by Model designation numbers. > > such as AE-86 or Toyota 86 or Hachi-jyu roko is a 1984-1987 RWD Corolla GTS. Trueno with retractable headlights like the U.S. versions Levin being composite headlights like the Canadian/Aust/Japan/English versions. Latas, Botoboy -- ******************************************************************************* Allan Chen Silicon Graphics Inc. Mountain View, CA allanc@sgi.com ******************************************************************************* xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 05:24:30 -0500 From: "ROGERS" To: Starlet16v@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Wheels......` The "Starlet community" generally deals with select sales in Miami. Minilite Rims are made in England. I've ordered a pair of Minilite Rims from Select sales in the Past, and didn't have a problem. If you can get a hold of the magazine "Small Car performance" or some combination of those words, you'll find several small shops selling Minilite rims. Sorry, don't have any numbers here at work.. Roger _______________________________________________________________________________ Subject: Wheels......` From: Starlet16v@aol.com at Internet Date: 2/26/96 11:39 PM Chris Myer Where can I get a set of Minilite rims? I have searched all over and still can't find a lead. Do you know where to find them or know of someone who does? Any help is appreciated. Radley 3 Starlets and counting................................. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 08:34:08 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Wheels......` >Where can I get a set of Minilite rims? I have searched all over and still >can't find a lead. Do you know where to find them or know of someone who >does? Any help is appreciated. Hmmm, beats me! Anyone? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 12:13:56 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 1988 FX16-GTS MODS To the list, Is the US FX-16 of 1988 an AE82(small hatch) or AE92(larger model)? Both have heaps of modifications available around the world. The 82 is fastest as it is lighter but the body is VERY weak and needs a roll cage to stiffen it when racing. The AE92 is one of the best FWD cars available. You have the choice up working on the present engine or fitting later ones. The 5 valve will give you 165BHP at 95 RON. How old is the present engine, is it worth the effort? Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 13:54:38 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Wheels >>The "Starlet community" generally deals with select sales in Miami. Minilite >>Rims are made in England. I've ordered a pair of Minilite Rims from Select >>sales The number for Select Sales is (305) 888-2828. If you want to talk to an MR2 nut there (we nicknamed him Mad Man) talk to Steve. ................... Dave 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 14:27:19 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: New Members!! >>Uh oh, another Ford employee driving imports. Personally I'll start >>driving Fords when they start bringing in the pocket rockets from europe. BUSTED!!! :):):) I've been here for a little over 5 years now. There are a handfull of us here that are slowly trying to wiggle our way through the corporate maze to bring the pocket rockets over here! You can't imagine how frustrating it is to know the company you work for makes the Mondeo and the Cosworth Escort and WE CAN'T get them!!! In my defense, I do drive a Probe GT as my regular driver, but I did drive the Toy most of last year... Dave 1986 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 16:13:45 EST From: "Christopher T. Berchin" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AGE Fuel Injectors Hello everyone. I will be installing fairly aggressive camshafts in my 1988 MR2 with the 4AGE (courtesy of Chris Myer) and will need to upgrade my fuel injectors to cope with the new amount of air entering the cylinder. I have seen a couple discussions about using 3SG injectors, and I also know that Steve at Select Sales has some high-flow injectors that he uses in his killer MR2. Does anyone out there have advice on what I can do that is reasonably cost-effective yet reliable? Thanks a bunch! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 17:36 CST From: pharmacy@mailhost.accesscom.net (Patrick) Subject: Kills or hestitates on the highway even at 1/2 Tank I have a problem that continues to baffle menad I hope you guys can shed some light on this post. I have an 86 4A-GE that seems to hestitate or kill on the highway anytime I go go below 1/2 tank of gas. Just this morning, I was coming down I-10 West houston to New Orleans (We'vw had upper 70s to lower 80s this past week), and it hestitated like it was going to kill. Its done this on three previous occasion and that has prompted me to replace fuel filter, flush injectors @ 111,000 miles, and I use Redline on a regular basis. I am beginning to think that my Fuel pump maybe the culprit here. Or some kind of sensory mechasim. My main question is - what kind of elimination process should I use to tackle this problem. Every thing about the car is great. Oh! by the way, - ran accros 1987 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo we raced all the way into te city. That's one heck of fast car! Talk about bang for buck!!! Patrick Mods K & N Filter charger, 2 1/2" Pipes, Dynomaxx Ultra Folws, Magnecor Spark plug wires. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 15:58:31 -0800 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Kills or hestitates on the highway even at 1/2 Tank Cc: pharmacy@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Patrick (pharmacy@mailhost.accesscom.net) writes: > I have a problem that continues to baffle menad I hope you guys can shed > some light on this post. I have an 86 4A-GE that seems to hestitate or kill > on the highway anytime I go go below 1/2 tank of gas. Just this morning, I > was coming down I-10 West houston to New Orleans (We'vw had upper 70s to > lower 80s this past week), and it hestitated like it was going to kill. > Its done this on three previous occasion and that has prompted me to replace > fuel filter, flush injectors @ 111,000 miles, and I use Redline on a You could quickly diagnose a problem fuel pump with a gauge setup, (extreme caution needed with EFI[?]!) but I'd suspect either the tank filler cap, or the vapor recovery (charcoal canister) system from your description. If there's too much vacuum in the tank, the pump won't deliver, right? Just my guess. BTW I don't mean to be picky, but does this qualify as proper subject matter for the "mods" list? Especially when it's sent multiple times! Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather, ONLY 182K miles! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 18:08:02 -0600 (CST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@iadfw.net (Bryan Carlson) Subject: Do it right I am planning to make some mods to my 91 MKII Turbo that is currently stock. I am planning to switch the ignition system and will most likely use magna-core wires but I am not sure what I should change if anything about the ignition itself or the plugs? I would appreciate suggestions. I have heard both good and bad things about Beru plugs and Nology wires to make me wary of these but I am curious about other brands of high performance ignitions. The next step will be to switch to a high performance air filter. Shoul I just use a stright replacement K&N or one of the high flow systems, such as the KHS or K&N systems? Which if either is better, eiser to install and maintain? Now that the car is breathing easy and getting a good hot spark I will override the restrictions on the boost and fuel system so taht I can run fifteen or sixteen pounds of boost. Is the KHS or the GReddy system better? Is the GReddy Profec worth the price increase over the TVVC? Should I consider anything else if my goal is to have a relaible daily driver with exceptional (even for a MR2) performance. I am hoping to be up around 270 HP. Is this achievable without major modification (anything beyond what is described, What boost pressure is neccesary to run up in that range, and is that safe?) I appreciate if any of you guys know this stuff. I am of the opinion that with the price of these modifications I should definately measure twice and cut once, as it were. Happy motoring. Ciao Bryan 91 MR2 Turbo (67,000 miles) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: pharmacy@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Kills or hestitates on the highway even at 1/2 Tank Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 16:18:55 PST ran accros 1987 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo we raced all the way into te city. That's one heck of fast car! Talk about bang for buck!!! I saw one one sale for 2k. Nice cars, but uGLyasHell (that's what GLH stands for.. just kiddin... more like ... GoesLikeHell). Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Wheels......` Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 17:00:19 PST Chris Myer Where can I get a set of Minilite rims? I have searched all over and still can't find a lead. Do you know where to find them or know of someone who does? Any help is appreciated. Radley 3 Starlets and counting................................. ===================================== I'll have a look through some of my mags for you tonight. If you think they are made in England I should be able to get you a contact. See yer soon Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 21:18:11 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: How Many Supercharged MR2's? Somebody asked this question. I've been told that there only around 500 Supercharged MR2's in the US. That seems kinda low, but I have to admit that I've never seen one, that I know of! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 21:20:28 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Re[2]: SOB (*WOB?*) >I believe you can get virtually any 18RG ot 2TG part you want through TRD. True--TRD Japan. 6-8 week delivery to the US via boat, unless you want to pay international air shipping. I think that TRD USA is dropping their coverage of these motors (along with everything else.) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 27 Feb 96 21:47:49 EST From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: MR2 Turbo I have a 1991 Turbo MR2. I installed the Trust stainless steel exhaust for my car. I know that this relieves a lot of the back pressure, but I keep hearing that by relieving the back pressure, I actually lose power in the low end. Is this true? If so, how can I improve it? May be by a new air intake? Also, how long does the stock turbo last before I have to have it rebuilt or replaced? Curiously, Alex xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 17:51:26 -1000 From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo Date: 27 Feb 96 21:47:49 EST From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> Subject: MR2 Turbo >I have a 1991 Turbo MR2. I installed the Trust stainless steel exhaust for my >car. I know that this relieves a lot of the back pressure, but I keep hearing >that by relieving the back pressure, I actually lose power in the low end. Is >this true? If so, how can I improve it? May be by a new air intake? Yes, what you state is true. The US Trust Version of the "racing" application is the "street" version of Japan Trust. (From what i'm told) And on most US vehicles, it flows way too much. Only good for high end speeds. Japan is different, they love top end. Of a 1988 Alltrac Turbo, 1989 Supercharged MR-2 and 1993 Turbo Mr-2 all with Trust exhausts who paid big bucks for it. All the fibers came out within 3-6 months. Go Figure. >Curiously, >Alex -Allen T Koji Kam 1989 Toyota Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 23:05:56 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Wheels, pt 2 Ok, checked with Select, and they (said) that they sold them at $118 each for the 13x6's, but that's what they told me. If that's true, and if that's the going price, I can definitely beat that price. Stillen doesn't carry Minilite's, but my contact there said Rod Millen might. I'm checking. Somebody call Select and see what they get for these from their retail customers. 305-888-2828. BTW, Stephen is the MR2 guy down there and seems to be fairly sharp, if a little young (sounds that way anyhow.) (oops, just read Dave A's post and see that he already said this last paragraph! Oh well, you know what they say about great minds!) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 23:10:19 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: Re: Kills or hestitates on the highway even at 1/2 Tank >My main question is - what kind of elimination process should I use to >tackle this problem. Every thing about the car is great. Um, try the fuel tank. I had this problem when the fuel tank rusted out on the inside. >Oh! by the way, - >ran accros 1987 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo we raced all the way into te city. >That's one heck of fast car! Talk about bang for buck!!! No doubt. The Dodge 2.2 and 2.5 liter motors are an excellent little power plant. I've had my butt kicked many times on the old circle track by these (until I learned how to make my Silly-Car kick back!) Chris -- Christopher P. Myer Cyberspace Automotive Performance www.cyberauto.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: rande@qni.com Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 22:41:07 -0600 Subject: Re: Wheels, pt 2 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Ok, checked with Select, and they (said) that they sold them at $118 each >for the 13x6's, but that's what they told me. If that's true, and if >that's the going price, I can definitely beat that price. > >Stillen doesn't carry Minilite's, but my contact there said Rod Millen >might. I'm checking. There is an ad in the latest issue of Grassroots Motorsports for a company that has Superlite wheels (I think there are very similar to Minilite's) in 13x6 for $94 each. They are located in Miami, FL, and their phone number is (305)-888-2828. There is also an ad for Panasport (the picture looks just like the Superlite's) from K-Speed in State College, PA, but no prices. Their number is 800-494-0708. Randy Eickhoff rande@qni.com '91 MR2T 37k 24/64 AS '85 MR2 123k current project Kansas City Region SCCA Crown Autocross Club of Kansas City If cars had evolved as fast as computers have, by now they'd cost a quarter, run for a year on a half-gallon of gas, and explode once a day. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 21:58:10 -0800 Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo To: Allen T Koji Kam , On Tue, 27 Feb 1996, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: >>I have a 1991 Turbo MR2. I installed the Trust stainless steel exhaust for my >>car. I know that this relieves a lot of the back pressure, but I keep hearing >>that by relieving the back pressure, I actually lose power in the low end. Is >>this true? If so, how can I improve it? May be by a new air intake? > >Yes, what you state is true. > >The US Trust Version of the "racing" application is the "street" version >of Japan Trust. (From what i'm told) > >And on most US vehicles, it flows way too much. Only good for high end speeds. >Japan is different, they love top end. I think this loss of low end power is not very significant if a person isn't afraid to push the revs a little higher. Yeah, passing performance on the freeway in fifth gear from 55mph will be degraded, but bump it up into third and the story changes. I wouldn't recommend the oversized exhaust for an otherwise stock MR2 turbo, but if top end hp is your goal, anything you can do to ease the exhausting of spent gases will quicken turbo response/reduce lag. Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 18:06:00 +1100 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: kca@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Allen T Koji Kam , Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo While some back pressure is required for normally aspirated motors no exhaust is too large once a motor is turboed. The less back pressure the more free flowing the exhaust and the quicker the turbo can spin up to produce decent boost. Every turbo text book i own shows a simple dump pipe as the ideal exhaust, the larger the better. It is also an advantage to have the pipe which comes straight off the turbo significantly larger in diameter than the actual turbo housings outlet creating a 'step up' in pipe diameter. This would creat turbulence wouldn't it you ask ? generally not desired in exhaust flow, but it makes sense if you think about the flow from the turbo. You want the exhaust gases to travel the shortest (and therefore fastest) route out. The gasses coming out of the turbo are spiraling and hence a theorectical exhaust particle is travelling 3,4,5,6 times as far as it needs too. Creating some turbulence at the turbo outlet disrupts this spiraling effect, and while it may reduce exhaust gas velocity to a degree this loss is more than compensated for by the reduced distance the exhaust gasses travel. Power from a turbo is all about getting 'on' boost as soon as you can, anything that makes the turbo spin up quicker makes power and thats what we all want. ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 04:08:39 PST From: gottwald@wrc.xerox.com (e. gottwald gottwald@wbst128) To: daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: New Members!! Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > bring the pocket rockets over here! You can't imagine how frustrating it is > to know the company you work for makes the Mondeo and the Cosworth Escort and > WE CAN'T get them!!! > > Dave Is the Cosworth Escort the same as the Cosworth RS? The latter is being imported into the states - though not by Ford... East Coast: Sportiva Motors, Dearborn MI West Coast: Sun International, Manhattan Beach CA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 04:17:52 PST From: gottwald@wrc.xerox.com (e. gottwald gottwald@wbst128) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, rande@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Wheels, pt 2 > From toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com Wed Feb 28 00:51 EST 1996 > From: rande@qni.com > Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:41:07 PST > Mime-Version: 1.0 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Subject: Re: Wheels, pt 2 > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > X-Mailer: SPRY Mail Version: 04.00.06.17 > Sender: owner-toyota-mods@cyberauto.com > > >Ok, checked with Select, and they (said) that they sold them at $118 each > >for the 13x6's, but that's what they told me. If that's true, and if > >that's the going price, I can definitely beat that price. > > > >Stillen doesn't carry Minilite's, but my contact there said Rod Millen > >might. I'm checking. > > There is an ad in the latest issue of Grassroots Motorsports for a company that > has Superlite wheels (I think there are very similar to Minilite's) in 13x6 for > $94 each. They are located in Miami, FL, and their phone number is > (305)-888-2828. There is also an ad for Panasport (the picture looks just like > the Superlite's) from K-Speed in State College, PA, but no prices. Their number > is 800-494-0708. > > Randy Eickhoff > rande@qni.com > '91 MR2T 37k 24/64 AS > '85 MR2 123k current project > Kansas City Region SCCA > Crown Autocross Club of Kansas City > > If cars had evolved as fast as computers have, by now they'd cost a > quarter, run for a year on a half-gallon of gas, and explode once a day. > I checked my back issues of Autoweek. It's neither of the Stillens that I saw. It was an ad for Panasports in the April 3, 1995 issue of Autoweek (p 48). No name, just a phone # - (310) 373-0071... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:48:03 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer) Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo This is getting away from the original post just a little bit, but has anyone heard of useing Nitrous to overcome the turbo lag at low rpm? Stillen makes a computer add-on for the 300ZX TT that injects nitrous into the intake when at WOT and less than 10 psi boost. Great idea, I'd say, but probably difficult for an average shmoe to implement on their personal hovercraft. Any ideas anyone? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 08:59 CST From: ikhifa@mailhost.accesscom.net (Patrick Ikhifa) Subject: Kills Or Hesitates on HWY. Guys, Thank you for response to my problem. I suspected all along that the fuel pump and the filler cap gasket. The Toyota service manual calls for inspecting and replacing the filler cap gasket every 60,000 miles. There is also a rubber gasket that fits around the neck of the filler. This right now is loose and I have tried to order it from the local dealers. They claim they can't get it (discontinue ditem). Chris, about the supercharged MR 2, there is one in my neighborhood it's the early body style, it's shade of blue, and I have tried to initiae friendl converations with the owner, he has not been very friendly. suffice to say that the the car appears to be in excellent shape. I have seen him gun it a few times too. Finally, I'd like to apologise for the multiple posts.Computer problems. Patrick. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 10:39:12 EST From: "Christopher T. Berchin" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AGE Injectors > Well I have 3SG injectors and have installed them in the following grinds >with STANDARD computer boxes and 9.4:1 engines. 256/256 264/256 and 272/272. >I am going to try it in 270/264 if only Chris Myer can deliver me the inlet >cam.The early 3SG injector is 250CC 12.7ohm and it works VERY well at 264 or >272 intake, and isnt needed at 256. I will be running 280/280 cams. I guess that was a pretty important piece of info that I left out in the original note! This is also the second time someone has brought up the impedance of the injectors (in this case, 12.7 ohm). I was told by someone that the 1986 and 1988 MR2 4AGE engines do NOT share injectors - one is supposed to be high-impedance the other is supposed to be low. Anyone know anything about this? Christopher T. Berchin Closures Panel Technology Phone: (313) 31-74946 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com Fax: (313) 84-55424 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:57:22 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AGE Fuel Injectors Well I have 3SG injectors and have installed them in the following grinds with STANDARD computer boxes and 9.4:1 engines. 256/256 264/256 and 272/272. I am going to try it in 270/264 if only Chris Myer can deliver me the inlet cam.The early 3SG injector is 250CC 12.7ohm and it works VERY well at 264 or 272 intake, and isnt needed at 256. The Australian and Japanesse engines use a MAP sensor not airflow, this may make some difference. Some others (Bill S) have used standard injectors (210) with larger grinds (280/280) but have used after market ECU's and defeated the VTIS. Make no mistake, a good exhaust and intake and 3SG injectors with 264 or 272 intakes is a great all rounder, there is no loss in bottom end and traditional Toyota reliability. Two weeks ago I won my class again with this setup against hotter grinds with DCOE's. Bruce Connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: 4AGE Injectors To: cberchin.ford@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher T. Berchin) Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 18:15:43 +0200 (EET) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > This is also the second time someone has brought up the impedance of the > injectors (in this case, 12.7 ohm). I was told by someone that the 1986 > and 1988 MR2 4AGE engines do NOT share injectors - one is supposed to be > high-impedance the other is supposed to be low. Anyone know anything > about this? See my WWW pages under Toyota fuel injection. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: How Many Supercharged MR2's? Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 08:35:58 PST Somebody asked this question. I've been told that there only around 500 Supercharged MR2's in the US. That seems kinda low, but I have to admit that I've never seen one, that I know of! Chris =============================== Not as low as England. We only have about 5 supercharged MR2's, all imported. ....It's not fair !!! Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 28 Feb 96 12:31:32 EST Subject: Re: How Many Supercharged MR2's? How may SC MR2's? I suspect there to be more than 500 SC cars out there, though production numbers were hardly what could be called large. They were apparently available earlier in other markets than they were in the US. One of our list compatriots has one she indicates is an '86. From the numbers that have been bandied on the 'Net claimed to be from Toyota PR, show that just over 13K MR2's were built between '88 and '89. These numbers are attended by a note that says, "No data is available on how many of the '88 and '89 models were supercharged." I've not seen any other data showing the car's availability in other markets earlier than '88, but then that wouldn't surprise me that here in the US it would be publicized that the first year of the car is the first year it was available in the US. The SC car wasn't a big seller, and the MR2 was in a large sales decline generally. But I suspect there could be as many as a couple to a few thousand cars built, especially if it were available in other markets, and earlier in other markets, as well. There are a number of folks on this list, including myself, who own an SC car. I know of at least a couple others here in the Boston area. UHH... Just in case anyone who might be interested missed my earlier posting--- MINE IS FOR SALE. I'm getting more interested to sell as the days go by, so if anyone's interested I'll be glad to talk. - Steven -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Reply from Chris M.-- >>Somebody asked this question. >> >>I've been told that there only around 500 Supercharged MR2's in the >>US. That seems kinda low, but I have to admit that I've never seen >>one, that I know of! >> >>Chris And another from Tony York-- >>Not as low as England. We only have about 5 supercharged MR2's, all >>imported. >> >>....It's not fair !!! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 13:27:32 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Cosworth RS > Is the Cosworth Escort the same as the Cosworth RS? The latter is being > imported into the states - though not by Ford... Yes, the Cosworth RS is basically the same, except for federalized bumpers, lamps, etc. It is not a Ford and cannot have any Ford badging over here, it's marketed as a Cosworth. Oh, and the reason I don't have one? $52,000. (Won't work on the employee purchase plan either!) Dave Aucott 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: How Many Supercharged MR2's? Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:49:42 PST >>Somebody asked this question. >> >>I've been told that there only around 500 Supercharged MR2's in the >>US. That seems kinda low, but I have to admit that I've never seen >>one, that I know of! >> >>Chris >>Not as low as England. We only have about 5 supercharged MR2's, all >>imported. >> >>....It's not fair !!! >Now that's a crime! Has anyone taken the time (and wasted the money!) = to >convert either of these 5 to right-hand drive? Steve B. '85 N/A 177,000 miles (parted out) '91 Turbo 77,000 miles (driven daily) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon/mr2.html =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Yes, I know of two that are RHD. One I saw in an auto trader and the othe= r is at Fensport Auto-parts. Fensport Auto-parts is a new and used parts supplier who specifically = deal in parts for the 4A-GE engine MR2/ Corolla, etc. Most of the new parts are = 25% or more cheaper than the Toyota dealers(Genuine Toyota parts as well!). Example: I payed =A3160 for a set of standard vented front discs for my = Corolla GTS. I could have got some drilled, slotted, vented, the full works inclu= ding kevlar brake shoes for the same price from this place. (Was I Upset ?, = I should say so!). Why do people insist on telling you about these places after you've payed= a fortune for something. Just thought I would have a bit of a moan about that, it has been anoying= me for a while, I feel a lot better now. Thanks for listening. Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Winterrowd, Kirk" To: Toyota Mods group Subject: me/mine/mods Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 13:49:00 PST Hi, I'm Kirk Winterrowd and I work for Origin Systems in Austin Tx. I currently do not have an MR2 but I plan on purchasing a 94 or 95 sometime later this year. I have already enjoyed reading the posts as it has provided me with info that I'll need for upgrading my MR2 once I get it. My email address is kwinterr@origin.ea.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 20:05:09 -0800 Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo To: Justin Simpson Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Wed, 28 Feb 1996, Justin Simpson wrote: >travel. Power from a turbo is all about getting 'on' boost as soon as >you can, anything that makes the turbo spin up quicker makes power and >thats what we all want. I agree with the majority of your arguement and consider the small sacrifice in low end torque to be nothing compared to hp gains by opening up the exhaust, but the exhaust on the MR2 Turbo is tuned to provide a certain amount of off-boost torque that would be lost by altering it (according to TRD). Anyway, like I said, I wouldn't recommend it for a stock car unless willing to sacrifice some low end torque in trade for high end hp. If TRD is full of it, (why would they be?) I have no way to confirm or deny either way. Regardless, a 3" pipe setup is in the works for my car since it is not stock and I consider high top end hp the ultimate goal. Respectfully, Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo kca@interserv.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 23:38:09 -0800 From: seldon To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2 swap How feasable would it be for a novice-midlin' mechanic to swap out an MR2 engine. Mainly, does it have to be dropped, or can it be pulled. also, since I'm gonna have to have it out anyway, any suggested (low budget) mods to perform while it's out? One other thing, anyone know the availability and price of lotus-sunbeam-talbot's in the UK? thanks seldon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: Justin Simpson Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 08:13:28 EDT Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo Cc: Allen T Koji Kam , Hi guys, On the topic of free flowing exhausts I am in agreement with you but at top end the boost goes up and the MR2 cuts off. My buddy tried this; he removed the stock box and put on straight pipe. He said the car ran pretty well but would cut off when it got to top end. Someone told him he needed to get a fuel cut defencer. Any ideas? gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 11:36:55 EDT Subject: Re: 4AG VVT Hi guys, Does anyone know what VVT stands for and does for the 4AG motor? gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 10:52:36 -0500 (EST) From: "mitchell r. baghdoian" To: seldon Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MR2 swap The early MR2's are a cinch to do a motor drop. Here's a brief summary: Pull the rear suspension off. Yes, it takes a little time, but the extra space is worth it. You'll probably need an alignment after you put it back together. Disconnect everything. You WILL get coolant all over. The wiring takes all of 30 seconds to disconnect, a real good design. The exhaust takes very little time as well. Hook your crane up to the motor and put a little tension on it. Remove the front and rear motor mounts first. Then the tranny mount (another slick toyota design), then the right side mount (off the front of the engine). Take a 4'x4' piece of plywood, and drill a big hole in one side of it and put a piece of rope/chain through the hole. Place the board under the engine and lower the engine down onto the board. This takes a little work. Don't destroy the TPS on the intake manifold (use a 2x4 to keep it off of the firewall) Now that the engine is on the ground, take your crane and lift up the car body around the engine. Grab the chain/rope and slide the engine&tranny out from underneath the car. Set the body back down on the jackstands. Budda boom, budda bing. The above should take between 1-2 hours with hand tools and 2 people. By the 3rd or 4th time you'll be able to do it yourself in under an hour (with air tools). Hope this helps. Mitch in MI On Wed, 28 Feb 1996, seldon wrote: > How feasable would it be for a novice-midlin' mechanic to swap out an MR2 > engine. Mainly, does it have to be dropped, or can it be pulled. also, > since I'm gonna have to have it out anyway, any suggested (low budget) > mods to perform while it's out? One other thing, anyone know the > availability and price of lotus-sunbeam-talbot's in the UK? > > thanks > seldon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 11:52:39 -0600 Subject: Re: 4AG VVT To: "Gregory Chan" , I'm pretty sure It stands for Variable Valve Timing On Thu, 29 Feb 1996, "Gregory Chan" wrote: >Hi guys, > Does anyone know what VVT stands for and does for the >4AG motor? > >gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 14:20:41 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AGE Transmission Swap Hi everyone! I posted a note a little while ago asking about transplanting a standard transmission into an automatic MKI. Thank you to the folks that responded... it appears there is more interest in this idea than there is knowledge about it! Here's what I know so far: 1) The engine will run fine with the transmission module disconnected 2) The auto ECU will work with the manual trans, but the manual ECU will not work with the auto trans. 3) The part number of the driver side half shaft is different on the auto, but the dealer inspected them and said they appear identical in every way, thus it might work. If anyone knows differently then the above, or has additional info to offer, please let me know. I've confirmed with my contact in Florida that the car is available, and it'll be on the next truck up my way (Michigan)! The auto in the car has no reverse and is slow getting into 3rd, so it looks like one way or another it's getting a new transmission. I'd like it to be a standard if possible. This is so cool... I'M GETTING ANOTHER MR2!!! :D Dave Aucott 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx