^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^
^^^                                    _______                              ^^^
^^^                                  ,'         - _                         ^^^
^^^                        ________,'__________>>>   - _ ^                  ^^^
^^^                    , '                               |                  ^^^
^^^               ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~.  _  I\/I I~I I~\ <~               ^^^
^^^                I  I_I  |  I_I  I  I~I     I  I I_I I_/ _>               ^^^
^^^                    `---\__/----------------\__/----'                    ^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^
^^^                       P O S T I N G S    Mar 1996                       ^^^
^^^                       ---------------------------                       ^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: 4AG VVT
To: gchan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gregory Chan)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 01:34:12 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> Hi guys,
>              Does anyone know what VVT stands for and does for the 
> 4AG motor?

Variable Valve Timing. 
The Toyota version (essentially same as the Alfa Romeo one)
uses oil pressure to rotate the intake camshaft relative to
its pulley. This is activated by means of an electrically controlled
valve of course. It is therefore possible to use very agressive
cams for good top end power: the 4A-GE VVT peaks 165hp@7800rpm!!!,
while still having decent low end torque and idle.
This is not a new technique, Alfa had it in production in mid-80's,
and Toyota was experimenting with it too in prototypes,
at least during the development of 1G-GTE engine but the VVT
was dropped in the production versions.

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 11:24:21 +1100 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: Gregory Chan 
Cc: Allen T Koji Kam ,
Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo

On Thu, 29 Feb 1996, Gregory Chan wrote:

> Hi guys,
>             On the topic of free flowing exhausts I am in agreement 
> with you but at top end the boost goes up and the MR2  cuts off.
> My buddy tried this; he removed the stock box and put on straight 
> pipe. He said the car ran pretty well but would cut off when it got 
> to top end. Someone told him he needed to get a fuel cut defencer.
> Any ideas?
> 
> gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
>
To me this seems a bit strange as the exhaust change shouldn't increase 
maximum boost (that's controlled by the wastegate) it only allows you to 
reach maximum boost more quickly. The turbo may be spinning up so quickly 
that it is over-boosting before the wastegate can react which is unusual 
as wastegate creep (slight opening before max boost) is a problem common 
to most turbo systems and incidently a good source of horsepower if you 
can fix it. Anyway as i understand it (and i'm only guessing here) this 
fuel cut defencer just bypasses the standard computers fuel cut (rev 
limiter?) allowing you to get the extra fuel required if you run extra 
boost. Sounds good to me although it's bloody expensive for what it does. 
I have seen 'do it yourself' boost limiter by-pass systems that cost under 
$50 Aust. to make. The only problem I can see with using this system with 
the standard injectors is that if you increase the boost to a level where 
the standard injectors can't keep up (above the 90% duty cycle is getting 
iffy) then you run the real danger of running lean, which at max boost 
gives your motor about ten seconds before it shits itself. Just something 
to think about anyway.

Seeya

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia   

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From: Victor Gnocchi 
To: "'Toyota'" 
Subject: Aditional Injectors or Bigger ones MR-2
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 02:00:20 -0500

Hi guys, I have a 1991 MR-2 Turbo, a make some mods, I am running
13.34 @ 104.5 mh in 1/4 miles.  I need to put extra fuel on it.  It better
additional injectors (maybe 2 "750cc") in the throttle body or replace
the stock ones,? Any sugestions?

Mods:
- HKS Power Flow
- HKS Electronic Valve Controller (EVC III)
- HKS Vein Presure Converter (VPC)
- Custom turbo wheel upgrade
- Intercooler pipes upgrade
- HKS Super Blow-Off

With this mods I run a 13.34@104.5mph. I was needed of a better clutch. Then a make this mods: 
- 3" Custom made exhaust w/ HKS Pipe
- TR-A custom made clutch plate
- Oversized piston .020"
- Rear tire 225/50/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE-71 R
- custom made intake air pipes
- Cool-IT in the intercooler pipes, 

I haven't try it out, but I think I will be in the 12's with a little luck. I am running my car on 15 PSI.

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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 00:28:40 -0700 (MST)
To: Justin Simpson ,
From: Aric Shen 
Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo
Cc: Allen T Koji Kam ,

>To me this seems a bit strange as the exhaust change shouldn't increase 
>maximum boost (that's controlled by the wastegate) it only allows you to 
>reach maximum boost more quickly. The turbo may be spinning up so quickly 
>that it is over-boosting before the wastegate can react which is unusual 
>as wastegate creep (slight opening before max boost) is a problem common 
>to most turbo systems and incidently a good source of horsepower if you 
>can fix it.

Just for your information, after removing the catalytics from my RX-7, boost
went from 6psi-10psi with no other change.. the wastegate dump has too small
of an opening to maintain correct boost pressures.. it wasn't really boost
"creep" (atleast not like the Talon/Eclipses).. it stayed consistently 4psi
higher than stock :) and your're right, it was a good source of additional
horsepower.. :)

% Aric Shen                                     %
% Speedline Racing Concepts                     %
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2                    %
% e-mail   : shafted @ primenet.com             %
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted   %
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic     %

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From: Andrew M J Pike 
To: "'k124476@ee.tut.fi'" 
Cc: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'"
Subject: FW: 4AG VVT
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 02:42:58 -0500

> Hi guys,
>              Does anyone know what VVT stands for and does for the 
> 4AG motor?

Variable Valve Timing. 
The Toyota version (essentially same as the Alfa Romeo one)
uses oil pressure to rotate the intake camshaft relative to
its pulley. This is activated by means of an electrically controlled
valve of course. It is therefore possible to use very agressive
cams for good top end power: the 4A-GE VVT peaks 165hp@7800rpm!!!,
while still having decent low end torque and idle.
This is not a new technique, Alfa had it in production in mid-80's,
and Toyota was experimenting with it too in prototypes,
at least during the development of 1G-GTE engine but the VVT
was dropped in the production versions.

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

Could you tell me which 4AG-E engines were fitted with the VVT 
Many Thanks

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: Andrew M J Pike 
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 07:48:54 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: 4AG VVT
Cc: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'"	 

Andrew,
            According to Matti's Web pages there was a 95 4AGE VVT
engine. 

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 07:18:04 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 Turbo Exhaust

                                                                                
Justin writes:                                                                  
                                                                                
> To me this seems a bit strange as the exhaust change shouldn't increase       
  maximum boost (that's controlled by the wastegate) it only allows you to      
reach maximum boost more quickly. The turbo may be spinning up so quickly       
that it is over-boosting before the wastegate can react which is unusual        
as wastegate creep (slight opening before max boost) is a problem common        
to most turbo systems and incidently a good source of horsepower if you         
can fix it.                                                                     
--------------------------                                                      
                                                                                
I have a friend with a Mazda 323GTX (the turbo, AWD, 16V rally special)         
which came with an overboost alarm from the factory.  He has an HKS             
air filter (the cone type) and exhuast system on the car.  On cold days         
the overboost alarm comes on repeatedly.  This can be cured by intalling        
an airflow limiter in the intake (which the previous owner did), but then       
all gains from the new parts is lost.  (BTW, we removed that stupid limiter     
and the car ran far better.)  Ond bad thing is that the car doesn't have        
a boost gauge, so we don't know if the car really is making more than the       
allowed 10psi or if some sort of airflow sensor is being fooled by the          
increased airflow.  But it seems that minimal modifications to turbos will      
result in overboosting.                                                         
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2 (37000 miles)                                                          
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 07:25:50 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Monza Exhaust

                                                                                
Danny writes:                                                                   
                                                                                
> I own a MK I 87 NA.  I purchased the Monza free flow muffler from JC          
Whitney.   Although it is a bit noisy inside the car, the increase in           
performance was very significant.  It also looks good and sounds good. The      
price was about the same as the stock Toyota muffler.                           
Danny Brunson                                                                   
-------------------------                                                       
                                                                                
I also have the Monza exhaust system on mine.  It is a nice-looking,            
quad-outlet unit, but I do have doubts about it longevity.  Again, I bought     
it because it was only US$108 shipped, but I'm not sure how well it flows.      
Also, it turns the car into a booming resonator at 3200-3800rpm.  Yes, I        
know I shouldn't be down that low, but on the highways here in the US,          
maintaining the 76mph it takes to get above this zone can play havoc on         
your license.  On the good side, it sounds great above 4300rpm.  I also         
had to do some minor revisions to get mine to fit properly, but some of that    
may stem from mating it with the TRD header.  I noticed slight gains with       
mine, but as I mentioned it was paired with the TRD header and K&N air          
filter.                                                                         
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2 (37000 miles - almost broken in!)                                      
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 07:35:43 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Ooops!

                                                                                
Sorry about the misrouted postings about the Monza tailpipes...forgot           
which Toyota list I was reading!  Those were supposed to go to the              
Digest.  Apologies...                                                           
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2, and in need of reading glasses!                                       
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: 4AG VVT (maybe this gets through this time)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 02:09:20 +0200 (EET)

Forwarded message:
From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: 4AG VVT
To: york@radstone.co.uk (Tony York)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 15:13:02 +0200 (EET)
Cc: k124476@ee.tut.fi

> Does that mean there are no 4A-GE VVT engines about at all? I've not heard of 
> toyota actually having a VVT engine, I know that Honda have a pretty decent 
> little pocket rocket (CRX VTEC). 
> Would it be possible to fit an engine like this into an '86 MR2 for example or 
> even a Corolla GTS for that matter?
> Any Ideas ?

Sorry I didn't make it very clear at first time. I meant that Toyota
experimented with VVT already over 10 years ago, but it only got
into production very recently (not sure exactly when, between 93-95).
So far it's only available in Japan. I'd guess it should be
an easy task to replace an older 4A-GE with the VVT/20-valve one.

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: 01 Mar 96 21:23:37 EST
From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com>
To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" 
Subject: Turbochargers

On my 1991 MR2 Turbo, the manual states that I should not exceed the highest
mark on my boost gauge or engine damage may result.  What mods can I make to my
car to exceed this pressure and how far can I actually go with only an exhaust
kit?

Just out of curiosity, how long do you wait for the turbo to cool down after
driving in the city or on the highway?

Alex

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 09:18:15 -0800
Subject: Turbo Magazine Web Site
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Just a brief announcement for you turbo owners - 

Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance Magazine now has a web site.

Although relatively unimpressive at the moment, they have promised to be adding 
to the site to improve it's worth.  Currently only basic information is 
available, such as subscription info and ordering back-issues.

http://www.turbomagazine.com

Kip Anderson
91 MR2 Turbo
kca@interserv.com
http://memebers.aol.com/kipanderso/index.htm

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 09:33:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo]  Lexus injectors?
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,

   Does anyone know what size the Lexus V8 injectors are?  How many cc?
I'm still trying to figure out the best bang/buck fuel system upgrade.
If they are 550cc, and are compatible with the 7MGTE ECU (as they seem
to be, from Reg's experience), then I might be able to use them with 
an HKS FCON and not have to fool with the Lexus airflow meter and 300ZX
TT fuel pump.  The $1600 that HKS wants for 6 injectors just seems 
exorbitant to me.

    BTW Reg, any further update on how the Lexus injectors & airflow
meter working out for you?

Aaron B.

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 13:51:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Lexus injectors?
To: supraman 
Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,

On Sat, 2 Mar 1996, supraman wrote:
>      Before you run out and buy bigger injectors, what are your horsepower 
> goals.  You can support close to 430hp with the stock 430cc injectors.  
> Here's a bit of a tip if your looking for the 550cc injectors.  The ones HKS 
> sells are the stock fuel injector used in the 1987 to 1992 Mazda RX-7 Turbo 
> II.  From the dealer these injectors are about $250ea. but if you can find a 
> Mazda junk yard then you could get a better deal.  Don't forget to cut off 
> the injector plugs from the RX7.  You'll need to solder them on in place of 
> the factory supra plugs.

    Well, I'm looking to run 15-20 psi on my rebuilt motor, which I
expect will be in the range of 400-500 hp.  If I could get 400 hp with my 
current injectors, then down the road replace them and get 500 hp,
that'd be great.  As it is I'd have a lot of trouble paying the full
$2600 for the HKS FCON & injectors, but if I could get 400 hp without 
having to upgrade the injectors that'd probably hold me until I could
afford the injector upgrade.  

    So what's necessary to get 400 hp worth of fuel from the stock
injectors?  Just an FCON?  What else?  

    Thanks a bunch for the help.

Aaron B.

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 19:20:08 +0000
Subject: Re: 4AGE Camshaft / Valvetrain Question
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Christopher,
                   Most of the cams for the 4AG-E motor made by TRD 
and HKS were pretty much the stock lift i.e ~7.6mm. The most radical 
was I believe 302/10mm and this according to the TRD book required
machining the head for the extra clearance. I am running 288/288 cams
with no problems as regards the stock valvetrain, however, these cams 
are the limit for the EFI system. Some people I have talked to said 
it would not work (including TRD) . TRD recommends their high 
performance valvetrain from 288 up along with sidedrafts but the 
price of the parts is kind of prohibitive.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 1996 17:47:47 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 4AGE Camshaft / Valvetrain Question

                                                                                
Hi everyone.  I'm posting to see if anyone knows what the upper limit of        
the STOCK 4AGE valvetrain is, regarding camshaft lift.  How far can I go        
with the lift before I need to change valve springs, buckets, guides,           
etc., or tagging a valve with a piston?                                         
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2, in hibernation and planning upgrades!                                 
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 09:13:02 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: Aric Shen 
Cc: Gregory Chan ,
Subject: RE: MR2 Turbo

As usual the theoretical is trashed by real world experience. It seems 
that if the wastegate is a bit on the small side then it can't shed the 
excess exhaust gases resulting from improved flow and over boosting 
results. I'm not sure if this is a good thing or not. On one hand you get 
the benefits of that extra boost but on the other hand that boost is 
uncontrolled, a possibly expensive situation. The turbos i have 
experience with are either standard or the boost is turned way up (over 
standard) so i have never come across a wastegate that couldn't maintain 
the specified level of boost. There you go, live and learn. Still can't 
decide if this is a good or bad thing to happen, any ideas ?

Seeya,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 09:16:04 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: Victor Gnocchi 
Cc: "'Toyota'" 
Subject: Re: Aditional Injectors or Bigger ones MR-2

This is one quick MR 2. Just out of curiousity what does this model MR 2 
weigh ? (In kilos please, i only understand pounds when talking boost or 
tyre pressures).

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Fri, 1 Mar 1996, Victor Gnocchi wrote:

> Hi guys, I have a 1991 MR-2 Turbo, a make some mods, I am running
> 13.34 @ 104.5 mh in 1/4 miles.  I need to put extra fuel on it.  It better
> additional injectors (maybe 2 "750cc") in the throttle body or replace
> the stock ones,? Any sugestions?
> 
> Mods:
> - HKS Power Flow
> - HKS Electronic Valve Controller (EVC III)
> - HKS Vein Presure Converter (VPC)
> - Custom turbo wheel upgrade
> - Intercooler pipes upgrade
> - HKS Super Blow-Off
> 
> With this mods I run a 13.34@104.5mph. I was needed of a better clutch. Then a make this mods: 
> - 3" Custom made exhaust w/ HKS Pipe
> - TR-A custom made clutch plate
> - Oversized piston .020"
> - Rear tire 225/50/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE-71 R
> - custom made intake air pipes
> - Cool-IT in the intercooler pipes, 
> 
> I haven't try it out, but I think I will be in the 12's with a little luck. I am running my car on 15 PSI.

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From: Gary Hong 
To: gnocchi@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, simpson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Aditional Injectors or Bigger ones MR-2
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 96 15:53:32 PST

From: Justin Simpson 
>
>This is one quick MR 2. Just out of curiousity what does this model MR 2 
>weigh ? (In kilos please, i only understand pounds when talking boost or 
>tyre pressures).
>
>~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
> Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
> CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
>~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
>
>On Fri, 1 Mar 1996, Victor Gnocchi wrote:
>
>> Hi guys, I have a 1991 MR-2 Turbo, a make some mods, I am running
>> 13.34 @ 104.5 mh in 1/4 miles.  I need to put extra fuel on it.  It better
>> additional injectors (maybe 2 "750cc") in the throttle body or replace
>> the stock ones,? Any sugestions?

What volume does the stock MR2 flow? Isn't 750cc a bit of an overkill as
500cc will be good enough for about 500 horses.  I guess nothing is overkill
when it comes to performance :).

Gary

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: VVT and the 5v 4AGE
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 20:52:02 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> To the list,
> The VVT motor, which is 5 valve has been available since 1991 in Japan, there
> are a few examples in Australia which have been imported. The engine looks
> very different to a normal 4AG, the EFI looking like an electronic Webber.
> The compression is 10.5 and all other details can be found on the Toyota CDROM
> EPC for the AE102. Also for those who are actually measuring the duration of
> their CAMS, like Bill S, it might shock you to know that an HKS 264 will
> measure around 280 when cold. The VVT (5 valve) is not a good drop in for RWD
> as the distributor is at the back, I think its better to fit the VVT cam to the
> 4 valve 4AG.
> Bruce Connelly
> 

Hi Bruce,

	I saw this motor used in a car that was similar to the MR2 in Car
and Driver a few months back.  The car was mid engined just like the MR2 and
was rear wheel drive.  So why would this not be a good drop in for the MK1
MR2?  Why does having the distributor at the back affect the install?  The
stock power of this motor sounds great.  :^) 

					Just my mind pondering a little,

					Aly
					'85/'86 MR2

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To: aly abulkheir 
Cc: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: VVT and the 5v 4AGE 
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 13:33:36 +1100
From: Peter Mejak 

Hi Bruce,

	I saw this motor used in a car that was similar to the MR2 in Car
and Driver a few months back.  The car was mid engined just like the MR2 and
was rear wheel drive.  So why would this not be a good drop in for the MK1
MR2?  Why does having the distributor at the back affect the install?  The
stock power of this motor sounds great.  :^) 

	Hi Aly,

	I think Bruce meant "not a good drop in for a Front-engined RWD".  For
	example, I'm considering one of these for my KE30 Corolla.  The dizzy
	will hit the firewall, hence the need for some sort of crank-fire
	aftermarket solution, for example.

	Cheers,

	Peter.

======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 22:04:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Lexus injectors?
To: supraman 
Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,

On Sun, 3 Mar 1996, supraman wrote:
> 	The F-CON can supply the fuel for 400 hp but the stock turbo can't 
> make 400 hp.  I'm not sure what turbo you are running.  A good choice would 
> be to get the Turbonetics upgrade to the stock CT26.  You send them in a 
> stock CT26 and about $450 and they will completely rebuild it, install a 
> V-Trim T04 compressor blade and clip the exhaust blade.  This is an awsome 
> upgrade and can support about 440hp.  The one thing I'm not sure about is 
> whether or not your stock air flow meter can flow enough air, you may need a 
> VPC.

     HKS recommends you limit boost to 13.5 psi until you upgrade the 
injectors.  Do you agree with this?  I can already get 11.5 psi without 
buying the FCON, and $1000 for the FCON seems like a lot of money for 
just 2 more psi (about 9% more power).

    Anyway, to bring you up to speed on some of the tales about my car
that the older folks have already heard, I originally had Turbonetics
upgrade my CT26 with a Super-S compressor wheel, and that thing had
incredible response.  Boost was obtained almost instantly, it would hit
full boost below 3000 rpm (with the EVC).  But I noticed the boost would
drop just a bit around 6000 rpm at 11 psi of boost.  Anyway, that turbo
blew apart due to a failure in manufacturing on Turbonetics' part.  They
rebuilt the turbo for free (didn't pay the mechanic labor costs though). 

    At that point, I already knew I wanted to run more boost and figured
the Super-S couldn't keep up, so I was going to go the next step up, the 
Super-V.  For whatever reason they were out of stock on V wheels and I 
didn't want to wait, so they urged me to get the next step up, the 
Super-H.  I was worried about boost response, but they said it would be 
fine.  So they put in the Super-H and clipped the exhaust wheel.

    Anyway, turbo lag is fairly significant with the Super-H.  I can't 
get full boost below 4000 rpm even with the EVC.  But this thing should 
be able to flow tremendous amounts of air without excessive heating.  But 
I can't take advantage of that until I upgrade my fuel system. :(

    So I already have been running the Turbonetics CT26-Super-H upgrade, 
and my other mods are HKS EVC III, HKS 75mm exhaust, Cartech Intercooler, 
no EGR, no cat.  I was using a K&N replacement filter (not FIPK), but 
with the recurring controversy about filtering ability I just put in a 
stock Toyota filter last time the engine was rebuilt. :(

    BTW, anyone have a source for replacment 7MGTE downpipes without the 
downpipe-cat?  For off-road uses only of course.

Aaron B.

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 20:36:27 -0700 (MST)
To: Aaron Buhr ,
From: Aric Shen 
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo]  Lexus injectors?

At 09:33 AM 3/3/96 -0500, Aaron Buhr wrote:
>
>   Does anyone know what size the Lexus V8 injectors are?  How many cc?
>I'm still trying to figure out the best bang/buck fuel system upgrade.
>If they are 550cc, and are compatible with the 7MGTE ECU (as they seem
>to be, from Reg's experience), then I might be able to use them with 
>an HKS FCON and not have to fool with the Lexus airflow meter and 300ZX
>TT fuel pump.  The $1600 that HKS wants for 6 injectors just seems 
>exorbitant to me.

I doubt a normally aspirated Lexus V8 would use 8 550cc injectors.. but, the
so-called HKS 550cc injectors are just Mazda RX-7 Turbo II injectors (I
think the 87-88 only).. I'm sure you'd be able to pick them up at a Mazda
dealer for much less.. the 84-85 RX-7 GSL-SE used 2 680cc injectors if you
can find those..

% Aric Shen                                     %
% Speedline Racing Concepts                     %
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2                    %
% e-mail   : shafted @ primenet.com             %
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted   %
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic     %

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 06:52:01 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Lexus injectors?

FWIW, I've found an excellent source for fuel injectors.  A company named
Python makes reconditioned injectors for almost any type of car, and
they cost less than half as much as from other suppliers.  For example,
Beck-Arnley (probably the largest distributor of OEM repair parts for
imports) sells 3SG injectors for around $85 each.  The Python injectors
would be about $40-$45 each.  If anyone is interested in finding out
the availability of injectors for a particular application, I only
need to know what the stock application was (year/make/model.)

As for the comment that the HKS injectors are the same as those found
stock on the 87-92 RX-7 T, that could be true, but I think the years may
be off a little bit.  I've got a Python part number 627-091 listed for
the 86-88, then a 627-093 listed for the 89-92.  I'll check price on 
these and post it later today.

Chris

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 08:57:22 EDT
Subject: Re: 4AG NOS kit

Hi guys,
            Has anyone tried a Nitrous injection system on the 4AG 
motor?

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 12:07:47 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: VVT

To the list,
The VVT motor, which is 5 valve has been available since 1991 in Japan, there
are a few examples in Australia which have been imported. The engine looks
very different to a normal 4AG, the EFI looking like an electronic Webber.
The compression is 10.5 and all other details can be found on the Toyota CDROM
EPC for the AE102. Also for those who are actually measuring the duration of
their CAMS, like Bill S, it might shock you to know that an HKS 264 will
measure around 280 when cold. The VVT (5 valve) is not a good drop in for RWD
as the distributor is at the back, I think its better to fit the VVT cam to the
4 valve 4AG.
Bruce Connelly

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 14:48:55 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: VVT and MR2

To the list,
The VVT was found in a front and 4WD Corolla. It was also available in a
126KW Supercharger version I seem to remember. The car that some of you have
written to me about is probably the MRJ or its prototypes. This is NOT the
1600 VVT but an 1850 I think. The VVT will fit in the early MR2, this is
technically a RWD but we tend to think of it as a FWD as its the same assembly.
For 'real' FWD's like the AE86 the VVT and for that matter the 3SG distributor
will hit the fire wall. To fix this you need to run crank fire ignition such
as Electromotive and have a laptop. I have helped install a 3SG in this manner.
The crank fire system is worth as much as the VVT 4AG.
Bruce Connelly

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 22:46:54 +0000
Subject: Re: Add on EFI computer

Hi all,
         I just read this in a magazine and thought it would be 
of interest to this group- Superchips is advertising an add-on
EFI computer for Toyota and other cars which have a nonremovable
PROM. They are claiming a 10% power increase over stock.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:51:33 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: Christopher Myer 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Lexus injectors?

Hi Chris, good timing on that injector source. I need some replacement 
injectors for my turbo 18RG. I found a set from a 3SGTE going real cheap 
but unfortunately these injectors have a weird design and won't fit my 
engine. I have heard vague suggestions that those from the 7MGTE might 
fit, so firstly do you (or anyone else) know if this injector is an o-ring 
style with the fuel entering from one end (rather than in the middle like 
the 3SGTE) and if so what are this injector mob going to charge. I can 
get a set here in Australia rated at 75 hp per injector for $300 Aust. 
but if they can beat that i'm interested.

Thanks,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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Subject: TRD suspension bushings
From: geoff@softwords.bc.ca (Geoff Seeley)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 21:38:49 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

I have a set of TRD suspension bushings for a SW20 MR2 that I plan to install
some day :-)

Anyone know if these TRD bushings are polyurethane or just a stiffer rubber
compound than stock?

I've been told that I need to lubricate poly bushings, but not rubber ones.
Anyone have experience in this?

Thanks
Geoff
'91 MR2 turbo, 165,500km

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From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 07:38:23 -0600
Subject: Weber Tuning ?'s
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Hello,

	I finally got my 20R / 22R combination running last night, and was 
wondering if anyone knew of a procedure to tune the weber carb?  I got the 
synchronous 2bbl, 40mm (40dhev?) anyways, the small instruction sheet said to 
adjust the mixture first, then the idle.  How can I adjust the mixture when the 
 thing won't idle? (I have to keep my finger on the throttle a little bit)

Any help will be greatly appreciated.... I can't wait to get it out on the road. 
If anyone cares I can post a summary of my impressions of all the mods, along 
with a list of things that I ran in to doing this swap.

- Brian

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:41:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Lexus injectors?
To: cfm 
Cc: Toyota Modifications Mailing List ,

On Mon, 4 Mar 1996, cfm wrote:

> Aaron Buhr wrote:
> > 
> 
> >     So what's necessary to get 400 hp worth of fuel from the stock
> > injectors?  Just an FCON?  What else?
> > 
> 
> 	Well first get a second line for fuel, with a fuel pump.  And 
> you should get a GCC for your f-con, and maybe a custom prom.

    Hm, isn't that all going to add up to more than just getting the
larger injectors in the first place ($1600) ?

Aaron B.

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 15:46:22 -0400
From: Sean Simmen 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: '93 MR2 Performance Upgrades

Hi guys, could you take a second to send me some info on upgrades for 
a '93 MR2 (non-turbo).  The parts I am interested in are as follows:

-Suspension 
-Exhaust 
-Wheels/Tires (what upgrades are suggested, what are max sizes)
-Brake Systems
-Transplant of '93 Turbo transmission & rear end to '93 non-turbo
-Short shift kits

I guess I'm just wondering if there are any favorite aftermarket 
companies that I can get info from, or if other MR2 owners have had 
good/bad experiences doing any of the above mods.  Also, of course, I 
am interested in the price of doing each thing because I am still a 
student.  I really want to get the car competitive on the autocross 
and local track.  

Thanks for any help!		

Sean

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From: Kai@cyber.cyb-live.com
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: 5 Mar 1996 16:02:16 EDT
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name: Kai Huang
Location: Manila, Philippines
Model: 1992 Corolla
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: The engine was swapped from a 1200 to 1600 4A-GE
      15 inch light alloy magwheels
      wood paneling for the dashbd
      Alpine sounds system

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: "suspension support"
To: validgh!uunet!ukonline.co.uk!david.cole@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 15:45:00 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Can anyone tell me how to check the rear wheel "suspension support" for wear? 
> Toyota have told me that if this is worn, it could cause the thuds that I
> hear when going over 'joins'/manhole covers etc in the road.
> What I don't want to do, is replace the shock absorbers, and then find out
> that it was the suspension support that was knackered!
> The car doesn't bounce up and down, so I know the shocks are working in that
> respect.
> 
> Dave
> MK1 '89 84K miles.
 
Dear Dave,
	
	I'm very familiar with this car, and I would like to help.  But
could you be a little more specific as to what a "suspension support" is. 
Are you referring to the struts, sway bars, or something else?

			:-)	It would also help me to know,

				Aly
				'85 MR2, red with all options
			abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: Kai@cyber.cyb-live.com
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: 5 Mar 1996 16:59:58 EDT
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name: Kai Huang
Location: Manila, Philippines
Model: 1992 Corolla
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: The engine was swapped from a 1200 to 1600 4A-GE
      15 inch light alloy magwheels
      wood paneling for the dashbd
      Alpine sounds system

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:04:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Little Angel Corolla

Hi all, 
        I read in Sports Compact magazine an article about Battle of 
the Imports in which there was an early model Corolla called Little 
Angel which won it's class with a 1/4 mile time of around 11s. Does
anyone know what kind of engine and degree of modification this car 
had?
  Thanks,

 gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:07:55 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: More Panasport Info

Michael Newell sent me some additional info on the Panasports that I think
was interesting and thought that I'd post here:

Chris

(From the wheel2wheel, autox, and british-cars mailing lists.  Edited
a bit for size and context.)

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 96 12:31:52 -0500
From: bownes@emi.com
To: wheel2wheel@abingdon.eng.sun.com, autox@autox.team.net,
    british-cars@autox.team.net, ata@emi
Subject: Panasport Wheels Order/Group Buy

(snip snip)

Panasport is a premier maker of road wheels for racing and street purposes.
I bought
4 for the race car about a year ago. Those who get SportsCar can take a look
through
the ad section in the back and see a picture if you don't know what they
look like.
If you've got web access, http://www.emi.com/~bownes/spit.html has some pictures
of my race car with them on it.

Panasport offers two types of wheels, street and Lights. Lights are for racing.
The race wheels are marked as such and are NOT DOT approved for street use. Most
of what we bought last time were Lights.

Last time I gathered orders over the net and went through a local guy who
offered
to sell them with little markup. The Lights prices ended up looking like this 
(more or less,as I recall)

	13"	$130 + S&H
	14"	$145 + S&H
	15"	$155 + S&H

There were a couple of oddball wheels we ordered that were not in this
range, so 
it's not +/- 3 sigma or anything, but it's close. (The 17"x13" stick in my
mind...)

This time I'm going to try something a little bit different. If we can get
enough 
wheels ordered, I will get them directly through Panasport and set 0.030"
Over up as
a distributor. But I expect that that's going to be something on the order of 
20-30 wheels, which is about the volume we has last time. So, we are faced with 
a chicken and egg problem. I won't know the pricing until I get a wheel
count, and 
most of you are bright enough to not commit to something without knowing
what it's 
gonna cost. If we don't get enough, I'll go back to my local guy and see if
we can 
get the deal again with whatever count we have. But my gut feel is that
we'll have
enough.

(snip snip)

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 14:22:28 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Add on EFI computer

Hiya all,
         Just read this from Greg Chan -

>Hi all,
>         I just read this in a magazine and thought it would be 
>of interest to this group- Superchips is advertising an add-on
>EFI computer for Toyota and other cars which have a nonremovable
>PROM. They are claiming a 10% power increase over stock.
>
>gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
>

In Aus recently, I read a fairly comprehensive review of the 'aftermarket
add-on chip' from a couple of manufacturors, and perhaps surprisingly NONE
of them where any good! In all cases ther was only a very small increase in
power, and almost invariably a noticable increase in fuel consumption.
From reading this article, I have no doubts about NOT recommending any of
these sort of devices!

The B Man.....

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:14:38 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: More info in Python Reconditioned Injectors

Here is the scoop on the Python injectors.  Most common part numbers
cost $35.94, plus a $10 (each) core charge.  As you can tell from the
size of that core charge, they would like your original injector back!
While this is not possible if you are putting an RX-7 injector into
your 7MGTE, It is still WAY cheaper than the $$ that HKS wants for
these.  (At least I don't _think_ they'll take a 7M injector in place
of an RX-7.  On second thought, I'll bet that they don't even look at
them...)

Here are some part numbers:

3SG Turbo injector:  640-167
5M injector:  640-160
7MG injector:  640-181
7MGTE injector:  640-164
86-88 RX7 injector:  627-091 <--(Injector from HKS's upgrade?)
89-92 RX7 injector:  627-093 

Several folks have been writing with questions about these.  If
this doesn't give the info that you need, just write back and I'll
try to get what you're looking for.

Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:50:41 -0500 (EST)
From: "mitchell r. baghdoian" 
To: Geoff Seeley 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: TRD suspension bushings

I put TRD bushings in my girlfriends 86 MR2. They are firmer rubber, not 
poly. 

Get the poly ones. You will need to lubricate them once a year (install 
zerk fittings, makes the job a lot more pleasant). Any rubber bushing 
will act as a spring/dampener assembly, preventing your shocks/springs 
from doing their job to the fullest. They will make the ride much 
harsher- if that is a major concern go with the rubber replacement ones.

Mitch.
too many MR2s 
too many Corolla GTSs

On Mon, 4 Mar 1996, Geoff Seeley wrote:

> I have a set of TRD suspension bushings for a SW20 MR2 that I plan to install
> some day :-)
> 
> Anyone know if these TRD bushings are polyurethane or just a stiffer rubber
> compound than stock?
> 
> I've been told that I need to lubricate poly bushings, but not rubber ones.
> Anyone have experience in this?
> 
> Thanks
> Geoff
> '91 MR2 turbo, 165,500km

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 00:13:31 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Add on EFI computer

Along the same lines as what Bill posted, I am attaching the "cut-n-paste"
email that I send whenever anyone writes me requesting ECU/Prom upgrades.
Since then, I am willing to make concessions only for ECU's that are
able to increase the boost on a turbo-charged engine.  In other words,
these at least have a _hope_ of working.  Pouring more gas and timing
into the car with total disregard for what level of performance upgrades
have been added to the car has negligible benefit at best.

I am always eager to be taught otherwise, but nobody has been able to
come to the chip manufacturer's rescue with some solid evidence.

Chris

-------------Begin CAP's cut-n-paste answer to ECU upgrade req's---------
Here at CAP, we're asked literally every day if we carry a line of
prom/ECU upgrades for various cars.  It makes sense if you consider
our market:  Folks familiar with computers, who typically have newer
"computer controlled" cars that are less performance upgrade 
friendly.  As a matter of fact, our Web site still reflects a 
section that we planned on devoting to just this topic--and never
did.

After much consideration, we have decided that at this time, we will
not carry a line of prom/ECU upgrades.  The bottom line:  we're 
still not sold on them.  There are just too many folks out there
running around selling super-proms that are just of marginal 
improvement at best and detrimental to performance at worst.  As a
matter of fact, we personally know of one situation where a 
prominent upgraded prom manufacturer was caught selling a prom that
was an exact duplicate of the auto's original prom, along with an 
upgraded wastegate.  (It was a turbo application.)  When confronted,
the president of the company admitted what was done, and justified
his actions by stating that everything he sold had a money back 
guarantee, and that none of the customers who bought that package
had requested their money back.  He sold them a valve (which I've
been told can be purchased for roughly $15 through an aquarium 
supply distributor) and the duplicate prom for several hundred 
dollars.  As a company founded on the priciples of value and 
honesty, we have a real problem with that!

Even if the prom upgrade manufacturer is honest (and I'm sure many,
if not most of them are), a "prom upgrade" is a bit like vapor-ware.
The automobile manufacturers spend billions of dollars designing
engines that are powerful, efficient, and operate cleanly.  They 
don't just leave out power for no reason.  If they don't get every
possible horsepower that an engine is capable of producing with 
it's stock components, it is because they've traded a small amount
of performance for economy, reliability, or for the sake of the 
environment.  Fortunately, with the advances in manufacturing tech-
nology, these tradeoffs are minimal.  The improvements are usually 
insignificant next to other variables such as tuning, driver 
ability, and weather.

There is a real need for prom upgrades that will allow a car to take
full advantage of available upgrades.  Certainly, the enhancements
offered by performance upgrades commonly sought through aftermarket
dealers (such as K&N Filtercharger Filters, Magnecor competition
spark plug wires, Jacob's ignitions, and DynoMax exhausts, as well
as others) are valuable.  However, to be able to take advantage of 
other upgrades, such as cams or high compression pistons, one must
reprogram the ECU on today's high-tech engines.  There are some
in-car programmers available today, unfortunately they are still 
quite expensive, and usually limited to a very small group of auto-
mobiles.  They are definitely not for the average driver who just 
wants to add little more pep to the daily driver.

We appreciate our customers' interest in performance prom upgrades.
However, it is in these same customers interest that we have chosen
to avoid them for now.  We realize that we will lose some sales 
because of this, but feel that there is something more important 
than sales at stake:  our reputation.

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 16:40:39 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: Christopher Myer 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: More info in Python Reconditioned Injectors

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, Christopher Myer wrote:

 
> Here are some part numbers:
> 
> 3SG Turbo injector:  640-167
> 5M injector:  640-160
> 7MG injector:  640-181
> 7MGTE injector:  640-164
> 86-88 RX7 injector:  627-091 <--(Injector from HKS's upgrade?)
> 89-92 RX7 injector:  627-093 
> 
> Several folks have been writing with questions about these.  If
> this doesn't give the info that you need, just write back and I'll
> try to get what you're looking for.

Chris, do they list injectors for the 18RGEU ? If so are these 
interchangeable with those from a 7mgte. Trying to find an appropriate 
injector for my turbo 18rg is driving me crazy, all the injector shops 
around here guard their info like the crown jewels.

Thanks,

 ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~      

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 23:13:27 -0800
To: gchan@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Aric Shen 
Subject: Re: Little Angel Corolla

At 11:04 PM 3/5/96 +0000, Gregory Chan wrote:
>Hi all, 
>        I read in Sports Compact magazine an article about Battle of 
>the Imports in which there was an early model Corolla called Little 
>Angel which won it's class with a 1/4 mile time of around 11s. Does
>anyone know what kind of engine and degree of modification this car 
>had?
>  Thanks,
>
> gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
>

That was at the Hi-Tech Shootout in Bakersfield, CA.  I think he was either
using a 2TC or 18RG.. I can't remember, but I'm more inclined to say 2TC..
or maybe 3TC.. something TC.. I think he was on the bottle though.. 

% Aric Shen                                     %
% Speedline Racing Concepts                     %
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2                    %
% e-mail   : shafted @ primenet.com             %
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted   %
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic     %

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Project 280hp update...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 12:08:54 +0200 (EET)

I guess it's time to give you all an update on my project...
Last week I got an intercooler (570*300*43mm core) and another
turbo. This used but good T3 has 0.63 A/R turbine housing and
45-trim compressor. Yes, I know the compressor is too small
for my needs and I may get a larger one even before I get back
on the road. The T04B S-trim compressor seems to be the best 
affordable choice. The T3 50L would also be ok, but is more expensive.

As I had to stop driving during the Xmas holidays due to the 
excessive oil burning (coming through the turbocharger oil seals),
I could at this point start as well disassembling the old setup.
Once the plumbing was removed, I could check the clearance of
the turbo bearings. Heheheh... some 4 mm radial on the turbine
side, 2 mm on the compressor side, 3 mm axial = toast.
Getting the turbo out required removal of something from the way,
in this case we picked the exhaust manifold.
After measuring the exhaust ports I got the feeling that at least
they COULD be larger, but is it really needed? I know already
of one porting work on the exhaust side of 3T-GTEU which went
to the oil channels, was welded but didn't hold after that.
These are rectangular in shape, about 32*26mm (approximately
equal to a 32mm round port). This is small compared to the 45mm
exhaust valves... Bill?
The CT20 has approximately equal turbine side to a .48 A/R T3,
and the compressor side size is between 40 and 45 trim T3.
The compressor wheel inducer diameter is 38mm and tip diameter 58mm
The T4 S-trim has a 48mm inducer and 70mm tip diameter.

Next I need an adapter to connect the T3 to the current manifold,
everything else (intake tubing, oil lines, exhaust) is then much easier...
I'll also move the battery to the rear and put the air flow meter
in its place.

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: sven@cris.com (Sven Williams)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 10:42:47 GMT

Name: 	Sven Williams
Loc:	Atlanta, Ga, USA
Model:	1985 MR2 (Mk I)
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	None at this time (looking to add performance during
engine rebuild this spring :)
email: sven@cris.com

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 12:14:49 GMT
From: James Sabin 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Superchipping

in particular the 7MGTE Supra turbo engine

it has been said that this is not a good idea

but for 600UKP (900US$) you get the chip and a
downpipe which replaces the cat part of the 
exhaust (HKS charge over 200UKP for this alone)

and the car changes its 0-60 from 6.8 to 5.2 secs
                    its topspeed to ~160mph
                    its midrange pull (say 60-80) to 2.8 secs
                    its BHP from 230 at 5psi (stock) to 330BHP at
                                        14-16 psi (their quote)
                    with a loss of 1 mile per gallon

this seems a cheaper alternative than banging on VPC, FC-CONS etc.
alhough i would certainly put on an HKS Turbo exhaust (75mm) and 
power-flow air filter anyway. Possibly the variable boot meter too!

It does seem to good to be true.

Does anyone have any experiences of superchips, turbochips, starchips
or any other manufacturer or have ANY info on why i should or should 
not go via this route. Do they harm the engine, the turbo. Do they
drastically reduce the engine life or decrease the fuel economy a lot.
Are their claims true ??

please help me sort this out

thanks

James

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 12:21:16 GMT
From: James Sabin 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     :  (Gary) James Sabin. Born 6-6-65.
         :  1 wife (Jenny), 1 daughter (stephanie aged 11 months).
Location :   home in whitbourne, worcester, england.
         :   work in birmingham, england. (computer programmer)
Model    :   Toyota Supra Turbo, White, Manual, June 1990, 39412 miles.
Engine   :   7M-GTE.
Mods     :   (none yet. but want to increase to about 330 BHP using 
              superchip stuff + HKS exhaust,downpipe, free airflow,
              variable boost controller (this is my minimum).
email    :   gjs@delcam.com

later

James

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 08:36:05 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Little Angel Corolla

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, Aric Shen wrote:

> That was at the Hi-Tech Shootout in Bakersfield, CA.  I think he was either
> using a 2TC or 18RG.. I can't remember, but I'm more inclined to say 2TC..
> or maybe 3TC.. something TC.. I think he was on the bottle though.. 

Anyone know what model Corolla ? KE/20/30/70 ?

  Paul.
 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-=
 =-=-B O N D  U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

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From: Dirk Sieber 
Subject: Me/Mine/Mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 14:59:13 PST

Well, I'm actually an old lurker on this list, and I've just hit upon
the ultimate upgrade for my '86 Celica GT-S.. it's now turned into the
following:

Name: Dirk Sieber
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Model: 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, Turquoise Pearl, 29000 miles
Engine: 3S-GTE
Mods: K&N air filter, Tokico Illuminas (rear only)
      (More to come after my bank account recovers ;-)
e-mail: dsieber@unixg.ubc.ca

The only comment I have about the car... WOW! :)

Dirk

-- 
Dirk Sieber... dsieber@unixg.ubc.ca     | This is a test... this is only a test
Any similarities between what I say and | If this were a real emergency, we'd 
what I mean is completely coincidental  | all be dead by now.:-)|Flames->/dev/null
A3000/25,Emplant,PII & 28.8k,486DX280 | '84 Nighthawk 750 | '93 MR2 Turbo

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From: Gary Hong 
To: gjs@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Superchipping
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 15:00:53 PST

From: James Sabin 
>
>in particular the 7MGTE Supra turbo engine
>
>it has been said that this is not a good idea
>
>but for 600UKP (900US$) you get the chip and a
>downpipe which replaces the cat part of the 
>exhaust (HKS charge over 200UKP for this alone)
>
>and the car changes its 0-60 from 6.8 to 5.2 secs
>                    its topspeed to ~160mph
>                    its midrange pull (say 60-80) to 2.8 secs

Hi James,

Where did you get this number?  Is it something you timed or you just
guessing? 2.8 seconds is pretty fast.  A BMW M formula engine is at 2.1
seconds.

Gary

>                    its BHP from 230 at 5psi (stock) to 330BHP at
>                                        14-16 psi (their quote)
>                    with a loss of 1 mile per gallon
>
>this seems a cheaper alternative than banging on VPC, FC-CONS etc.
>alhough i would certainly put on an HKS Turbo exhaust (75mm) and 
>power-flow air filter anyway. Possibly the variable boot meter too!
>
>It does seem to good to be true.
>
>Does anyone have any experiences of superchips, turbochips, starchips
>or any other manufacturer or have ANY info on why i should or should 
>not go via this route. Do they harm the engine, the turbo. Do they
>drastically reduce the engine life or decrease the fuel economy a lot.
>Are their claims true ??
>
>please help me sort this out
>
>thanks
>
>James

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: Little Angel Corolla
To: paulp@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Paul Pyyvaara)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 01:29:15 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, Aric Shen wrote:
> 
> > That was at the Hi-Tech Shootout in Bakersfield, CA.  I think he was either
> > using a 2TC or 18RG.. I can't remember, but I'm more inclined to say 2TC..
> > or maybe 3TC.. something TC.. I think he was on the bottle though.. 
> 
> Anyone know what model Corolla ? KE/20/30/70 ?

According to Turbo magazine it is a '73 -> KE20...
But probably no longer with a K-series engine ;)
It ran 12.25@106mph

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: Superchipping
To: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Hong)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 02:07:17 +0200 (EET)
Cc: gjs@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> >and the car changes its 0-60 from 6.8 to 5.2 secs
> >                    its topspeed to ~160mph
> >                    its midrange pull (say 60-80) to 2.8 secs
> 
> Hi James,
> 
> Where did you get this number?  Is it something you timed or you just
> guessing? 2.8 seconds is pretty fast.  A BMW M formula engine is at 2.1
> seconds.

Those numbers are very realistic for a MA70 with 330 REAL horsepower.
I ran a quick simulation and came up with about 2.7 seconds 60-80mph,
4.8 seconds 0-60, top speed 163mph.
I'm aiming for 2.6-2.7 seconds 60-80mph myself, but with a lot less
top speed - 150-155mph (it's a brick and I run out of revs anyway).

> Gary
> 
> >                    its BHP from 230 at 5psi (stock) to 330BHP at
> >                                        14-16 psi (their quote)
> >                    with a loss of 1 mile per gallon

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: Gary Hong 
To: k124476@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Superchipping
Cc: gjs@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 16:57:27 PST

From: Matti Kalalahti 
>
>Those numbers are very realistic for a MA70 with 330 REAL horsepower.
>I ran a quick simulation and came up with about 2.7 seconds 60-80mph,
>4.8 seconds 0-60, top speed 163mph.
>I'm aiming for 2.6-2.7 seconds 60-80mph myself, but with a lot less
>top speed - 150-155mph (it's a brick and I run out of revs anyway).

Matti,

If you run your simulation, how many HP is needed to accelerate a car (given
the supra's weight) from 60-80 in 2.1 secs? Just curious.  I remember the 
formula engine has a rating of about 900 horses.

Gary

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 20:13:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Lexus injectors?
To: cfm 
Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, cfm wrote:

> Aaron Buhr wrote:
> 
> > > >     So what's necessary to get 400 hp worth of fuel from the stock
> > > > injectors?  Just an FCON?  What else?
> > > >
> > >
> > >       Well first get a second line for fuel, with a fuel pump.  And
> > > you should get a GCC for your f-con, and maybe a custom prom.
> > 
> >     Hm, isn't that all going to add up to more than just getting the
> > larger injectors in the first place ($1600) ?
> > 
> > Aaron B.
> 
> 	No, the fuel line and pump $300.00, GCC $250.00 that is far less 
> than $1600.00
> 
> 	I have no idea on what it is you are trying to accomplish.  That 
> is what kind of turbo/boost/components, but you must remember these are 
> things which you will use even if you get larger injectors.

    Hm, that does sound interesting.  So you do recommend a supplemental 
second fuel pump?  What brand and model?  How hard is it to install?  
Also, what's involved in tweaking the GCC?

    Thanks for the info!

Aaron B.

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 20:23:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Lexus injectors?
To: supraman 
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,

On Sat, 2 Mar 1996, supraman wrote:
> Here's a bit of a tip if your looking for the 550cc injectors.  The ones HKS 
> sells are the stock fuel injector used in the 1987 to 1992 Mazda RX-7 Turbo 
> II.  From the dealer these injectors are about $250ea. but if you can find a 
> Mazda junk yard then you could get a better deal.  Don't forget to cut off 
> the injector plugs from the RX7.  You'll need to solder them on in place of 
> the factory supra plugs.

    Supraman, I'd really appreciate it if you could tell me more about 
what it takes to use the Mazda injectors with the 7MGTE.  Can you go into 
more detail about what modifications are necessary to the injectors?  
What level of expertise does that take?  Thanks a bunch!

Aaron B.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 21:42:37 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Me/Mine/mods

Name: Bruce Crawford
Loc:    Staten Island, NY
Model: 1989 MR2, Normally aspirated
Engine: 4AGE
Mods:  Home-made muffler, Suspension Tech swaybars (F&R), Jacobs Ignition,
15x7:            wheels with Yokohama 205/50 509's, and Porterfield R4S brake
pads
E-mail: RBC199@aol.com

I am planning to install a TRD header and modify the EFI on this car in the
near term. I understand the Toyota EFI is somewhat finicky to modification. I
had in mind changing the resistance from the coolant sensor using
potentiometers and a O2 gauge in conjunction with the 02 sensor.  Any
suggestions? 

Ultimately, I wanted to install individual throttle bodies. 

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 21:00:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Mike Kronvold 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 60-80 times (was: Re: Superchipping)

On Wed, 6 Mar 1996, Gary Hong wrote:
> From: Matti Kalalahti 
> >Those numbers are very realistic for a MA70 with 330 REAL horsepower.
> >I ran a quick simulation and came up with about 2.7 seconds 60-80mph,
> >4.8 seconds 0-60, top speed 163mph.
> >I'm aiming for 2.6-2.7 seconds 60-80mph myself, but with a lot less
> >top speed - 150-155mph (it's a brick and I run out of revs anyway).
> If you run your simulation, how many HP is needed to accelerate a car (given
> the supra's weight) from 60-80 in 2.1 secs? Just curious.  I remember the 
> formula engine has a rating of about 900 horses.
> Gary

  I just ran cartest on the stock '89 supra turbo.  

   60-80 in 3rd gear 4.3 seconds  (230HP@5600, 254ftlb@3200rpm, 3770lbs)

   60-80 in 3rd gear 3.2 seconds  (299HP@5600, 330ftlb@3200rpm, 3770lbs)
     supposed to approximate an HKS stage IV supra.

   60-80 in 3rd gear 2.0 seconds  (453HP@5600, 500ftlb@3200rpm, 3770lbs)
     approximate an HKS state VIII supra. (okay, so it's a wild guess)

   60-80 in 1st gear 2.2 seconds  (625HP@5700, 630ftlb@4900rpm, 3570lbs)
   60-80 in 2nd gear 2.0 seconds  (625HP@5700, 630ftlb@4900rpm, 3570lbs)
     Vector W8 TT (my other dream car, 0-60 3.6s, 11.8@129.2 1/4mi)

     these are just guesses at torque figures, and the HKS stuff doesn't
   list rpms for anything.  But stage III and IV are rather common so I
   took the 299/330 from a fax I got from a friend who had his dyno'd
   2 years ago with a makeshift wastegate valve bleedoff a pacesetter 
   exhaust and a K&N FIPK.  Um.  that's stage III, he was running just
   under the fuel cut.  (he also had some internals strengthened, but I
   don't think that should throw things off that much)

     I can't imagine driving something with 390 ftlbs of torque.

   - Mike

--
Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering
(708) 543-9191    424 Interstate Road  Addison, Illinois  60101  USA
Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation............
          Bad Command or Filename.  Go stand in the corner.

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From: Gary Hong 
To: kronvold@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 60-80 times (was: Re: Superchipping)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 19:34:20 PST

From: Mike Kronvold 
>
>  I just ran cartest on the stock '89 supra turbo.  
>
>   60-80 in 3rd gear 4.3 seconds  (230HP@5600, 254ftlb@3200rpm, 3770lbs)
>
>   60-80 in 3rd gear 3.2 seconds  (299HP@5600, 330ftlb@3200rpm, 3770lbs)
>     supposed to approximate an HKS stage IV supra.
>
>   60-80 in 3rd gear 2.0 seconds  (453HP@5600, 500ftlb@3200rpm, 3770lbs)
>     approximate an HKS state VIII supra. (okay, so it's a wild guess)
>
>   60-80 in 1st gear 2.2 seconds  (625HP@5700, 630ftlb@4900rpm, 3570lbs)
>   60-80 in 2nd gear 2.0 seconds  (625HP@5700, 630ftlb@4900rpm, 3570lbs)
>     Vector W8 TT (my other dream car, 0-60 3.6s, 11.8@129.2 1/4mi)
>
>     these are just guesses at torque figures, and the HKS stuff doesn't
>   list rpms for anything.  But stage III and IV are rather common so I
>   took the 299/330 from a fax I got from a friend who had his dyno'd
>   2 years ago with a makeshift wastegate valve bleedoff a pacesetter 
>   exhaust and a K&N FIPK.  Um.  that's stage III, he was running just
>   under the fuel cut.  (he also had some internals strengthened, but I
>   don't think that should throw things off that much)
>
>     I can't imagine driving something with 390 ftlbs of torque.
>
>   - Mike

Mike,

How did you get cartest to simulate 60-80 runs? I couldn't figure it out.

Thanks,
Gary

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 14:40:29 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Add on EFI computer

Hiya all,
         I forgot to mention one thing - add-on computers for turbo cars
that run more-than-standard boost _are_ in fact a good thing, and are
usually a mandatoy item to avoid leaning out under increased boost.
From what Chris Meyer wrote in response, he seems to agree .....

>Along the same lines as what Bill posted, I am attaching the "cut-n-paste"
>email that I send whenever anyone writes me requesting ECU/Prom upgrades.
>Since then, I am willing to make concessions only for ECU's that are
>able to increase the boost on a turbo-charged engine.  In other words,
>these at least have a _hope_ of working.  Pouring more gas and timing
>into the car with total disregard for what level of performance upgrades
>have been added to the car has negligible benefit at best.
>
>I am always eager to be taught otherwise, but nobody has been able to
>come to the chip manufacturer's rescue with some solid evidence.
>
>Chris

As for replacing the _entire_ computer, that's another story ......

The B Man.

P.S. As I sometimes say, "Sorry if I've pissed you off, but would you be
happier with me if I lied?"
P.P.S. My father owms a Ford Falcon 3.9 litre 6 cyl with an aftermarket
turbo kit - over 300 hp and Mack-Truck torque. It has an add-on computer
that increases fuel flow with positive boost. Absolutely no complaints with
that setup.

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 96 09:40:23 GMT
From: James Sabin 
To: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Superchipping

Gary Hong writes:
 > From: James Sabin 
 > >
 > >in particular the 7MGTE Supra turbo engine
 > >
 > >it has been said that this is not a good idea
 > >
 > >but for 600UKP (900US$) you get the chip and a
 > >downpipe which replaces the cat part of the 
 > >exhaust (HKS charge over 200UKP for this alone)
 > >
 > >and the car changes its 0-60 from 6.8 to 5.2 secs
 > >                    its topspeed to ~160mph
 > >                    its midrange pull (say 60-80) to 2.8 secs
 > 
 > Hi James,
 > 
 > Where did you get this number?  Is it something you timed or you just
 > guessing? 2.8 seconds is pretty fast.  A BMW M formula engine is at 2.1
 > seconds.
 > 
 > Gary
 > 

all the figures quoted were from their literature

i'm gonna send Reg Riemer photocopies of these and see what he
thinks. 

basically you get the chip and the downpipe (replacing the cat -
a good thing anyway) for your dosh. The best way to do this is
(alledgedly) to take your car to superchips itself and they put
it on a rolling road, and custom blow a chip.

I can type in some info from the literature if people are interested
(other than Reg - i'll send him the info). I notice HKS do a chip
upgrade of sorts - anyone got of them ???

Jim

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 10:49:43 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Fwd: Me/Mine/mods

In a message dated 96-03-07 06:54:05 EST, bagdon@rust.net (Steve Bagdon)
writes:

>Welcome aboard. Never heard of indiviual throttle bodies. What's that, one
>body for two intakes, or 4 bodies?

Thanks....

One throttle body for each intake runner. TWM makes them for just about
anything that can take a Weber style manifold (DCOE,IDF,IDA,DCNF).

Bruce (RBC199@aol.com)
'89 MR2 n/a   113,000
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	bagdon@rust.net (Steve Bagdon)
To:	RBC199@aol.com
Date: 96-03-07 06:54:05 EST

>Name: Bruce Crawford
>Loc:    Staten Island, NY
>Model: 1989 MR2, Normally aspirated
>Engine: 4AGE
>Mods:  Home-made muffler, Suspension Tech swaybars (F&R), Jacobs Ignition,
>15x7:            wheels with Yokohama 205/50 509's, and Porterfield R4S
brake
>pads
>E-mail: RBC199@aol.com
>
>I am planning to install a TRD header and modify the EFI on this car in the
>near term. I understand the Toyota EFI is somewhat finicky to modification.
I
>had in mind changing the resistance from the coolant sensor using
>potentiometers and a O2 gauge in conjunction with the 02 sensor.  Any
>suggestions?
>
>Ultimately, I wanted to install individual throttle bodies.

Welcome aboard. Never heard of indiviual throttle bodies. What's that, one
body for two intakes, or 4 bodies?

I've parting out an '85, so I've got some parts if you need them.

Steve B.

'85 N/A 177,000 miles (parted out)
'91 Turbo 77,000 miles (driven daily)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon/mr2.html

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 10:45:44 -0600 (CST)
From: Mike Kronvold 
To: Gary Hong 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 60-80 times (was: Re: Superchipping)

On Wed, 6 Mar 1996, Gary Hong wrote:
> Mike,
> How did you get cartest to simulate 60-80 runs? I couldn't figure it out.
> Gary

     Rolling start, press + a few times to get the start speed you 
   want, then 1 2 3 4 or 5 for the gear you want to start in F1 to
   start.

   - Mike
--
Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering
(708) 543-9191    424 Interstate Road  Addison, Illinois  60101  USA
Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation............
          Bad Command or Filename.  Go stand in the corner.

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 96 09:05:11 -0800
From: jmontign%spc.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (JEFF MONTIGNY - NEW PRODUCTS ENGINEER)
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"%GPO.DNET@uvs1.orl.mmc.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     : Jeff Montigny
Location : Maine, USA
Model    : '89 Supra Turbo
Engine   : 7M-GTE
Mods     : Powerflow,VBC,DP Exhaust,No cat, 
	   Plugs&Wires, TurboTimer, Tems control.
email    : JMONTIGN@NSC.COM	http://www.supras.com/jmontign/s_jm_1.html

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Squirreliness
To: michaelt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 12:25:44 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Aly...
> I have a 85 MKI...I just put new tokico struts in...and had it 
> alaigned...but now it vibrates when i hit a bump and in general 
> acts squirrelly on rough roads...have any ideas??
> 
> Michael
> 

Hmmmm....I can only speculate.  I would (1) make sure the alignment was done
correctly (did it act this way between the time you put in the struts to
when you had the alignment done?) (2) Make sure everything is tight (strut
assembly, nuts at top of strut mounting, bottom, etc.), (3) are the tires in
good condition?
	By the way, did you get the Illuminas? or the blue shocks?  Really
have the alignment checked, try to get a printout of the alignment specs
that were done on your car.  You may be shocked to see how off they may be. 
The first place I went to after I put in my Illuminas had the car running
worse than when I brought it to him.  He had the front left tire at .5
degree neg. camber and the right at  .5 degree pos. camber.  He said, "It's
within specifications.".  Needless to say, I did not go back to him.  Later,
I had the car aligned at a place that was in the boonies, but that was
recommended by fellow autocrossers who said that these other guys were
pretty accurate.  They did a much better job and I was pleased.  So it can
make a big difference.  This car is very sensitive to setup, and is very
adjustable.

					Hope this helps :^)

					Aly
					'85 MR2, red with all options
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Superchipping
To: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Hong)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 12:32:17 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> Matti,
> 
> If you run your simulation, how many HP is needed to accelerate a car (given
> the supra's weight) from 60-80 in 2.1 secs? Just curious.  I remember the 
> formula engine has a rating of about 900 horses.
> 
> Gary
> 

Matti,

	What is the formula you use?  Because I'd also like to know how much
hp is needed to accelerate an '85 MR2 from 0-60 in about 5 seconds, or a
little less.  I'm supposing it would take not more than 230-250 hp,
factoring in that it only takes 255 for the 93+ RX7 twin turbo to do it in
4.7 seconds and that car weighs close to 3000 lbs, while my '85 MR2 only
weighs about 2400 lbs.  And the rx7 isn't even mid engined, which is a big
plus for Mister 2.

					Thanks,

					Aly
					'85/'86 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Haltech E5 or similar
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 12:39:22 -0500 (EST)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu

Hi all,
	Well, now that we've got to talking about computer upgrades, Does
anyone have any experience, direct or indirect with full replacement
aftermarket computers like the Haltech E5 or a similar computer?  And how
much does a computer like this cost?  
	Chris Myer, what is your general opinion of full replacement
computers like these? :^)

					Aly
					'85/'86 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: RBC199@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 19:47:29 +0000
Subject: Re: Me/Mine/mods
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Guys,
          I would suggest you check with Chris before buying any 
parts elsewhere. His prices are pretty good, in fact I wish I had 
known he was around before I started to modify my 4AG motor.
If you are looking for headers Dobi makes a pretty good TRD
imitation, in fact I bought their Tri-Y and it cost me around 
$120.00. I also got one for my buddy's Civic and this cost $85.00
and is a replica of a Lightspeed. The only problem with them is that 
you would have to order it now to get it by mid-summer but the price 
is right. If you are interested I can get the number for you.
     If you are going to put a cam bigger than 272you will definitely 
have to modify the EFI as it will NOT idle. I put 2-288 cams in and 
it would not idle anywhere even if I turned it up. I had to drive 
with my right foot on both pedals until I figured out what to do.
If you are interested in this modification let me know.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 15:07:13 -0500 (EST)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu

Recently, our friend Mitchell Baghdo.. mentioned that polyurethane
suspension bushings "make the ride much harsher" compared to harder rubber
bushings like TRD's.  
	I am not doubting this since I have no experience with replacement
suspension bushings (my car still has the stock bushings at 92k miles and
I'd like to replace them).  
	All I'd like to know is can anyone else attest to this statement?  
(that the ride is much harsher with poly bushings compared to harder rubber)
I don't want the ride to be very harsh as it is my daily driver.  I plan to
use them along with tokico Illuminas (already installed), Eibach progressive
springs, and ST sway bars.
		
					Thanks :-)
	
					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 12:38:16 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Darin Hamilton 
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     :      Darin Hamilton
Location :      Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Model    :      1986 MR2, Miram/Maritime blue exterior ('94 4Runner colour),
black-grey-BLUE interior
Engine   :	4AGE
Mods     :	SuperTrapp muffler (2.5" chrome), K&N air filter,
                15" Exip (BBS-style deep dish) wheels,
                195/50-15 Dunlop GT Qualifier tires (now bald) :)
                Alpine/Sony/SAS/Kicker stereo set-up (in-dash CD, separates,
subs, etc...)
email    :      darin@econnect.net
comments :      I was on the list, then off the list... now I'm BACK!
                Anyone got a '91-'93 MR2 Turbo they wanna sell?

--
Darin Hamilton
eConnect
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
---------------------------------
"SmartBuilding Internet Services"
---------------------------------
mailto:darin@econnect.net
http://www.econnect.net

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 16:03:55 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Me/Mine/mods

In a message dated 96-03-07 14:56:49 EST, abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly
abulkheir) writes:

>I'd mention that I bought mine from Select Sales in Miami, Florida for $250
>and saved about $75.  You can reach them at (305) 888-2828.  If this number
>is wrong, email me and I'll double check it.  Just thought I'd help
>you out and save you some money.
>	I'd like to know how the car acted differently with the addition of
>the Ignition amplifier (Jacobs)

Thanks - did you notice any improvement (other than weight) with the header?
What sort of muffler are you using? Did you eliminate the Cat (I killed
mine)? And did you notice any leanness after installation of the header?

The ignition amplifier - Jacobs. I did notice a small bit of improvement when
I installed it. Mainly right off idle the car was much smoother.
Unfortunately, I changed the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil and 86'd the Cat
at the same time, so it's really difficult to say what did what. However, I
installed a Jacobs box on my '87 F150 5.0 and it made a big difference in
mileage. An MSD6AL is cheaper and is comparable IMHO. I think the MR2 has a
pretty sturdy ignition right from the factory.

Bruce
'89 MR2 N/A

Bruce
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly abulkheir)
To:	RBC199@aol.com
Date: 96-03-07 14:56:49 EST

> 
> Name: Bruce Crawford
> Loc:    Staten Island, NY
> Model: 1989 MR2, Normally aspirated
> Engine: 4AGE
> Mods:  Home-made muffler, Suspension Tech swaybars (F&R), Jacobs Ignition,
> 15x7:            wheels with Yokohama 205/50 509's, and Porterfield R4S
brake
> pads
> E-mail: RBC199@aol.com
> 
> I am planning to install a TRD header and modify the EFI on this car in the
> near term. I understand the Toyota EFI is somewhat finicky to modification.
I
> had in mind changing the resistance from the coolant sensor using
> potentiometers and a O2 gauge in conjunction with the 02 sensor.  Any
> suggestions? 
> 
> Ultimately, I wanted to install individual throttle bodies. 
> 

Hi Bruce,
	I have an '85 MR2.  Since you mentioned the TRD header, I thought
I'd mention that I bought mine from Select Sales in Miami, Florida for $250
and saved about $75.  You can reach them at (305) 888-2828.  If this number
is wrong, email me and I'll double check it.  Just thought I'd help
you out and save you some money.
	I'd like to know how the car acted differently with the addition of
the Ignition amplifier (Jacobs).  I'm planning on buying one this summer,
after I get my car fixed (had a small accident).

					Thanks,

					Aly
					'85/'86 MR2, red with all options
					Repainting as '86 planned for summer
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 96 15:12:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

OK,

	I have NO experience with poly on an MR2, but do have a lot of 
expierence with them on my truck, a BMW, and a VW.  In the truck, the ride 
actually got better, since teh poly allowed the springs to work much better, and 
eliminated some of the suspension slop.

	In the BMW (which had SUspension Techniques springs, KYB struts) the 
ride was slightly firmer on the straights (could be same, might be my 
imagination...), but the control in the corners was 100% better... what I paid 
for worked so much better (springs, struts, sway bars) so they definately were a 
good inexpensive improvement.

	On the VW, I just swapped to Poly bushings on the sway bars, so not a 
complete change, but again the straights were un-affected, and bumps didn't 
change a whole lot, but the cornering made a 200% improvement (since the old 
ones were shot anyways, it was like night & day.)

	Conclusion: Go for it, you notice a slight firming of the suspension, if 
the bushings were totally shot, but al in all things will work to their fullest 
potental.

- Brian

On Thu, 7 Mar 1996, aly abulkheir  wrote:
>Recently, our friend Mitchell Baghdo.. mentioned that polyurethane
>suspension bushings "make the ride much harsher" compared to harder rubber
>bushings like TRD's.  
>	I am not doubting this since I have no experience with replacement
>suspension bushings (my car still has the stock bushings at 92k miles and
>I'd like to replace them).  
>	All I'd like to know is can anyone else attest to this statement?  
>(that the ride is much harsher with poly bushings compared to harder rubber)
>I don't want the ride to be very harsh as it is my daily driver.  I plan to
>use them along with tokico Illuminas (already installed), Eibach progressive
>springs, and ST sway bars.
>		
>					Thanks :-)
>	
>					Aly
>					'85 MR2
>				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 16:14:53 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings

In a message dated 96-03-07 15:24:17 EST, abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly
abulkheir) writes:

>I plan to
>use them along with tokico Illuminas (already installed), Eibach progressive
>springs, and ST sway bars.

I was told, quite recently, no one makes poly bushings for the MR2, and that
right now, TRD was the only source of bushings for the MR2 and they were hard
rubber, AND, they were unavailable. I just installed ST swaybars F&R (my '89
MR2 only came with a front bar stock) and they have noticeably improved the
feel of the car. I put 15x7 Borbet wheels and 205/50 A509's on at the same
time. Next step - Eibachs and Illuminas. 

Bruce Crawford RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 N/A

---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly abulkheir)
Sender:	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
To:	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
CC:	validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.Berkeley.EDU
Date: 96-03-07 15:24:17 EST

Recently, our friend Mitchell Baghdo.. mentioned that polyurethane
suspension bushings "make the ride much harsher" compared to harder rubber
bushings like TRD's.  
	I am not doubting this since I have no experience with replacement
suspension bushings (my car still has the stock bushings at 92k miles and
I'd like to replace them).  
	All I'd like to know is can anyone else attest to this statement?  
(that the ride is much harsher with poly bushings compared to harder rubber)
I don't want the ride to be very harsh as it is my daily driver.  I plan to
use them along with tokico Illuminas (already installed), Eibach progressive
springs, and ST sway bars.
		
					Thanks :-)
	
					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 16:43:02 -0600 (CST)
From: Mike Kronvold 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Superchipping

On Thu, 7 Mar 1996, aly abulkheir wrote:
> > Matti,
> > If you run your simulation, how many HP is needed to accelerate a car (given
> > the supra's weight) from 60-80 in 2.1 secs? Just curious.  I remember the 
> > formula engine has a rating of about 900 horses.
> > Gary
> Matti,
> 	What is the formula you use?  Because I'd also like to know how much
> hp is needed to accelerate an '85 MR2 from 0-60 in about 5 seconds, or a
> little less.  I'm supposing it would take not more than 230-250 hp,
> factoring in that it only takes 255 for the 93+ RX7 twin turbo to do it in
> 4.7 seconds and that car weighs close to 3000 lbs, while my '85 MR2 only
> weighs about 2400 lbs.  And the rx7 isn't even mid engined, which is a big
> plus for Mister 2.
> 					Aly
> 					'85/'86 MR2

   using cartest I pulled up the specs for an '86 MR2 (112hp?)

   and tried the following:

 0-60 4.7sec   250HP@6600rpm 260ftlbs@4800rpm clutch dump from 1100rpms
 Gear ratios 1st: 3.17:1 4th: 0.97:1
             2nd: 1.90:1 5th: 0.82:1
             3rd: 1.31:1 6th:     :1
 Final drive ratio:  4.31:1
 Car test weight:         2525 lb.
  on 185/14R60's (the stock tire size) BTW this resulted in endless
  wheelspin.  With this power to weight the car could probably to 
  better.  So I'd say 230ish and you're in the 5 second 0-60 area.

  - Mike

--
Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering
(708) 543-9191    424 Interstate Road  Addison, Illinois  60101  USA
Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation............
          Bad Command or Filename.  Go stand in the corner.

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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:00:54 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: aly abulkheir 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings

Hi aly, I have replaced every bush in my car with the polyurethane style 
bushes (it's a 77 model celica) and i wouldn't say the ride is harsher 
but rather that everything is much more direct. If your suspension is set 
up properly bumps etc are taken care of by the shocks and springs. The 
bushes are only there to provide some protection for the metal on metal 
joints in the suspension system (a bit like cartilage in your own 
joints). The advantage polyurethane has over rubber is a greater 
torsional stiffness ie much harder to twist (plus it lasts heaps longer) 
so it reduces the sloppiness (highly technical term) produced by standard 
rubber bushes which distort more under stress and reduce the 
responsiveness of the suspension. For those that care polyurthane bushes 
come in a multitude of colours and can be custom made to replace any 
standard rubber bush. Just my experience and i would never by a rubber 
relpacement bush again.

Seeya,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Thu, 7 Mar 1996, aly abulkheir wrote:

> Recently, our friend Mitchell Baghdo.. mentioned that polyurethane
> suspension bushings "make the ride much harsher" compared to harder rubber
> bushings like TRD's.  
> 	I am not doubting this since I have no experience with replacement
> suspension bushings (my car still has the stock bushings at 92k miles and
> I'd like to replace them).  
> 	All I'd like to know is can anyone else attest to this statement?  
> (that the ride is much harsher with poly bushings compared to harder rubber)
> I don't want the ride to be very harsh as it is my daily driver.  I plan to
> use them along with tokico Illuminas (already installed), Eibach progressive
> springs, and ST sway bars.
> 		
> 					Thanks :-)
> 	
> 					Aly
> 					'85 MR2
> 				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:08:23 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: poly bushes

Hi aly, I have replaced every bush in my car with the polyurethane style
bushes (it's a 77 model celica) and i wouldn't say the ride is harsher
but rather that everything is much more direct. If your suspension is set
up properly bumps etc are taken care of by the shocks and springs. The
bushes are only there to provide some protection for the metal on metal
joints in the suspension system (a bit like cartilage in your own
joints). The advantage polyurethane has over rubber is a greater
torsional stiffness ie much harder to twist (plus it lasts heaps longer)
so it reduces the sloppiness (highly technical term) produced by standard
rubber bushes which distort more under stress and reduce the
responsiveness of the suspension. For those that care polyurthane bushes
come in a multitude of colours and can be custom made to replace any
standard rubber bush. Just my experience and i would never by a rubber
relpacement bush again.
                       
Seeya.

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: Superchipping
To: garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Hong)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 01:19:01 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)

> From: Matti Kalalahti 
> >
> >Those numbers are very realistic for a MA70 with 330 REAL horsepower.
> >I ran a quick simulation and came up with about 2.7 seconds 60-80mph,
> >4.8 seconds 0-60, top speed 163mph.
> >I'm aiming for 2.6-2.7 seconds 60-80mph myself, but with a lot less
> >top speed - 150-155mph (it's a brick and I run out of revs anyway).
> 
> Matti,
> 
> If you run your simulation, how many HP is needed to accelerate a car (given
> the supra's weight) from 60-80 in 2.1 secs? Just curious.  I remember the 
> formula engine has a rating of about 900 horses.
> 
> Gary

About 440hp, depending on the shape of the torque curve. It's not just
the peak value, you know.

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: Superchipping
To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (aly abulkheir)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 01:50:39 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)

> Matti,
> 
> 	What is the formula you use?  Because I'd also like to know how much
> hp is needed to accelerate an '85 MR2 from 0-60 in about 5 seconds, or a
> little less.  I'm supposing it would take not more than 230-250 hp,
> factoring in that it only takes 255 for the 93+ RX7 twin turbo to do it in
> 4.7 seconds and that car weighs close to 3000 lbs, while my '85 MR2 only
> weighs about 2400 lbs.  And the rx7 isn't even mid engined, which is a big
> plus for Mister 2.

About 240hp, maybe slightly less if you improve the launch from stock
(should be possible with good tyres). Time to turbocharge that 4A-GE,
and there you go...

These numbers I got by using RevAnalyzer (for Amiga only so far
and only available as part of RevPro package which in itself is
free). Link is on my WWW page for more info.

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 19:29:12 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Me/Mine/mods

In a message dated 96-03-07 17:54:02 EST, bagdon@rust.net (Steve Bagdon)
writes:

>>One throttle body for each intake runner. TWM makes them for just about
>>anything that can take a Weber style manifold (DCOE,IDF,IDA,DCNF).
>
>I had heard that someone was making a Weber setup for the 4AGE, but hadn't
>heard anyone that had actually set it up. I also heard that it was almost
>mandatory fro the 'wilder' cams. What sort of performance do you expect
>from the change?

I am not sure, I'm not sophisticated enough to put a number on it, but my
basic plan was to have a healthy streetable car. So the plan unfolds:
 unshroud the valves a bit and clean up the head - nothing fancy - , a set of
yet to be determined cams (this is a plug for a suggestion), a TRD header
(that I just ordered minutes ago),  and a set of individual runner throttle
bodies to feed the whole thing. At this point I am anticipating having to
fabricate the the individual runners from aluminum tube and plate that the
throttle bodies mount to, and use an existing TWM fuel rail and linkage. I
still have a hope (or delusion) that TWM will have something useable to avoid
that step. The whole thing controlled by an Electromotive/Haltech, etc ECU.
Otherwise, I have to develop some sort of plan to open up that stock EFI
manifold and find a larger throttle body. The goal here is to approach 175HP
to 200HP or so and keep the car streetable enough to be a daily driver while
I finish the "other" car. Then on to plan B - which is why the individual
runners. That's another story.

Bruce
'89 MR2 N/A
'79 RX7 (The other car)
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	bagdon@rust.net (Steve Bagdon)
To:	RBC199@aol.com
Date: 96-03-07 17:54:02 EST

>In a message dated 96-03-07 06:54:05 EST, bagdon@rust.net (Steve Bagdon)
>writes:
>
>>Welcome aboard. Never heard of indiviual throttle bodies. What's that, one
>>body for two intakes, or 4 bodies?
>
>Thanks....
>
>One throttle body for each intake runner. TWM makes them for just about
>anything that can take a Weber style manifold (DCOE,IDF,IDA,DCNF).

I had heard that someone was making a Weber setup for the 4AGE, but hadn't
heard anyone that had actually set it up. I also heard that it was almost
mandatory fro the 'wilder' cams. What sort of performance do you expect
from the change?

Steve B.

'85 N/A 177,000 miles (parted out)
'91 Turbo 77,000 miles (driven daily)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon/mr2.html

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 20:32:01 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Alignment

In a message dated 96-03-07 19:50:56 EST, abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly
abulkheir) writes:

>Needless to say, I did not go back to him.  Later,
>I had the car aligned at a place that was in the boonies, but that was
>recommended by fellow autocrossers who said that these other guys were
>pretty accurate.  They did a much better job and I was pleased.  So it can
>make a big difference.  This car is very sensitive to setup, and is very
>adjustable.
>
>					Hope this helps :^)
>
>					Aly
>					'85 MR2, red with all options
>				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
>
Where, or better yet, how far into the boonies is this guy? I have yet to
find a good alignment guy here in Staten Island, NY, despite several
attempts. I've considered driving to Florida to see my brother to get a
decent job done (and it's a hell of an excuse to go on vacation). Anyone know
a good front end guy in Central NJ or NYC? I just replaced F&R ball joints
and front tie rod ends one afternoon last week and can't seem to get the
alignment job done right. 

Bruce RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 n/a with very few options
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly abulkheir)
Sender:	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
To:	michaelt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
CC:	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: 96-03-07 19:50:56 EST

> 
> Aly...
> I have a 85 MKI...I just put new tokico struts in...and had it 
> alaigned...but now it vibrates when i hit a bump and in general 
> acts squirrelly on rough roads...have any ideas??
> 
> Michael
> 

Hmmmm....I can only speculate.  I would (1) make sure the alignment was done
correctly (did it act this way between the time you put in the struts to
when you had the alignment done?) (2) Make sure everything is tight (strut
assembly, nuts at top of strut mounting, bottom, etc.), (3) are the tires in
good condition?
	By the way, did you get the Illuminas? or the blue shocks?  Really
have the alignment checked, try to get a printout of the alignment specs
that were done on your car.  You may be shocked to see how off they may be. 
The first place I went to after I put in my Illuminas had the car running
worse than when I brought it to him.  He had the front left tire at .5
degree neg. camber and the right at  .5 degree pos. camber.  He said, "It's
within specifications.".  Needless to say, I did not go back to him.  Later,
I had the car aligned at a place that was in the boonies, but that was
recommended by fellow autocrossers who said that these other guys were
pretty accurate.  They did a much better job and I was pleased.  So it can
make a big difference.  This car is very sensitive to setup, and is very
adjustable.

					Hope this helps :^)

					Aly
					'85 MR2, red with all options
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 18:06:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: Re: Superchipping
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" 

>        What is the formula you use?  Because I'd also like to know how 
much
>hp is needed to accelerate an '85 MR2 from 0-60 in about 5 seconds, or a
>little less.  I'm supposing it would take not more than 230-250 hp,
>factoring in that it only takes 255 for the 93+ RX7 twin turbo to do it in
>4.7 seconds and that car weighs close to 3000 lbs, while my '85 MR2 only
>weighs about 2400 lbs.  And the rx7 isn't even mid engined, which is a big
>plus for Mister 2.

4.7 sec 0-60 sounds a bit too optimistic for the RX7 TT.  The mags I have 
seen list it around 5.2 sec, similar to the NSX.  In real world 0-60 races, 
the NSX and RX7 are very close.  After 80 mph or so, the NSX begins to pull 
ahead.  The NSX is rated at 270 hp and around 3000 lb.  Sorry that this has 
nothing to do with Toyotas...

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 18:18:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: RE: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" 

>        All I'd like to know is can anyone else attest to this statement?
>(that the ride is much harsher with poly bushings compared to harder 
rubber)
>I don't want the ride to be very harsh as it is my daily driver.  I plan to
>use them along with tokico Illuminas (already installed), Eibach 
progressive
>springs, and ST sway bars.

I have the front/rear Suspension Technics sway bars on my 85 MR2 which come 
with the poly urethane bushings (red in color).  The car is stock otherwise. 
 The bars are almost exactly the same diameter as the stock bars.  I did not 
notice *any* improvement (reduced lean) with these bars, or any increased 
harshness.  The only advantage I can see with these bars are that they are 
adjustable.  Spend your money on the shocks, springs, and tires first, IMHO.

I was very disappointed in the ST sway bars for my MR2, compared to the ST 
bars for my 1980 Celica.  These were much larger than stock, and reduced the 
lean significantly.

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 18:19:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Matthew Lehman 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     :  Matthew Lehman
Location :  Berkeley, California
Model    :  1988 Camry 2.0L
Engine   :  3S-FE
Mods     :  this is my first car and I'm just trying to do minor tune 
up stuff for now cause the car is going on 112K.  Put in a K&N filter &
Splitfire Plugs.  I don't know if it was the timing or not, but these 
things seemed to reduce my gas mileage while not providing any noticable 
power gains.  I just adjusted the timing and things seem to be running a 
little better, except for a minor bit of hesitation.  We'll have to see 
about the milage in the coming weeks.  I'm planning on a new muffler 
since the one it came with is already rusted out.  I've called around and 
found someone who will put on an ultraflow II for $170,  any suggestions?

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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 18:21:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: RE: Haltech E5 or similar
To: "mr2-interest@validgh.com" ,

>        Well, now that we've got to talking about computer upgrades, Does
>anyone have any experience, direct or indirect with full replacement
>aftermarket computers like the Haltech E5 or a similar computer?  And how
>much does a computer like this cost?

Subscribe to DIY EFI for more info:

================================================================
        Do - It - Yourself    Electronic   Fuel  Injection
================================================================

To subscribe: Send "subscribe DIY_EFI [address]" to
    Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu. The request
    must be in the body of the message; *not* the subject line.

For help: Send "help" to Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu.

To post: Send to "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"

Charter: (subject to change)

    This mailing-list is *strictly* dedicated to the discussion
of topics related to EFI design and modification. I would like
to see discussion on control algorithms, hardware, electronics,
and sensor/sensor-interface designs. Additionally, modification
and adaptations of OEM ECU's would also be welcomed.

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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 18:27:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: Next Holtville event
To: "mr2-interest@validgh.com" ,

Forwarded by Bryan Zublin (bzublin@gi.com):

     I just thought you Californians might like to know about this event.
     I was talking to Dave @ Dave Turner Motorsports (800-854-6640) and he
     mentioned that the next Holtville Raceway event is going to be held
     on May 11, from 2 PM till ? (a day/evening/night event). So here is
     the deal if you want to put your car on the track and drive fast with
     some other cool people (yes at the same time), here is your chance.
     It costs $100.00 and you get lots of track time. It doesn't cost
     anything to watch and talk.

     You have to have a helmet and seat belts.  Night running will require
     functional headlights.

     A fire extinguisher, roll bar, fire suit, window net, harnesses are
     all recommended but not required.  The field is usually broken into 3
     groups 1) race cars : spec. first gen. RX7's and IT cars. 2) Regular
     street cars : CRX, Integra, stock first gen. RX7's etc. and 3) Fast
     street cars : RX7 turbos, NSX's, Corvettes, M3's etc. (I have gone 3
     times so far twice in group 2 and now in group 3)  Each group get to
     run for 15-20 minutes. Then is called in and the next group runs. You
     can come in and go out as you please during your session to check tire
     temps, get a drink, let your breaks cool off what ever.  This goes on
     cycling through each group time and time again until we break for
     lunch or diner in this case at which time everyone usually sits around
     eating pizza while  talking about there cars, the track and racing
     stuff. (everyone usually pitches in for pizzas form town at the
     beginning of the day ~5.00 each). After food its back to the track and
     cycling through the runs groups again.

     There is limited passing (front and back straight only) and corner/flag 

     people can wave aggressive people off to the pits, so I have not seen
     any automotive contact as of yet, and I don't expect to in the future.
      I do not want dents in my new RX7, nor do I wish to scuff  a new NSX.
     The event has not been crowded (last event had 26 cars total) and you
     can usually find a time in your group where you are the only car on
     the track. (by the way last event had 3 NSX's, 2 third gen. RX7's, an
     M3, and various other interesting cars)

     I can hit 110 MPH in a stock 3rd gen. RX7 so you can go fast.

     If you go to watch, you will want to drive (especially if you go for a
     ride in one of the race cars) so bring $100.00

     Holtville is just past El Centro on highway 8 (1.5 hrs from San Diego).
     The course is set up with cones on two alternate field runways all
     concrete surfaces.

     For more info call Dave Turner Motorsports @ 800-854-6640
                                        -Paul (faucher@sdd.hp.com) `94 RX7

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 18:28:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Matthew Lehman 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: exhaust on an 88 camry

Just got an 88 camry and the muffler was replaced at midas before I bought it
Needless to say it's allready rusted out, so I'm looking to replace it.

I called around and found a place that would sell me an an 
ultraflow II, installed, for $170.  He said it was all stainless and 
straight through pipes. I'm more concerned with the construction and 
durability, than I am about the performance, but am warry since I know it 
doesn't fit exactly to my car and some fabrication will have to be done 
using aluminized pipes.

I also don't want it to be loud on the freeway, since it's more of a 
commuter car.  I'd really like something to help out in the low range, 
but that will humm nicely on the freeway.  Any suggestions are welcome.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 22:04:45 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Fwd: Alignment

In a message dated 96-03-07 21:18:37 EST, byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) writes:

>There's a real neat trick for setting toe-in with a carpenter's square,
>masking tape and a tape measure.  I'll give you that one at another time.
>Dick Byrd
>byrd@mnsinc.com

Thanks...I'm putting in springs and strut cartidges next week. Maybe you
could post an outline. I'm tired of explaining what I want, not what the
"specs" say and getting beaten out of a few bucks on alignments everytime.

Bruce
RBC199@aol.com
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd)
To:	RBC199@aol.com
Date: 96-03-07 21:18:37 EST

>I have yet to find a good alignment guy here in Staten Island, NY, despite
>several attempts. I've considered driving to Florida to see my brother to
get a
>decent job done (and it's a hell of an excuse to go on vacation).
Etc., Etc.,Etc.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
     I've done my own front end alignment for years and with primative
tools.  Some thought, time and desire to do it right are worth more than a
$50,000 Bear alignment machine.  For setting camber, level the front wheels;
you may have to drive one wheel onto plywood or something.  Use a regular
carpenter's level against the tire.  Do not center it on the tire because of
the bulge at the ground contact.  By measuring the distance that the level
has to be moved out from the tire to read level, and knowing the length of
the level, you can easly calculate the camber angle(arctan). If you jack up
the car in the process of adjusting things, always roll it back and forth
several feet to level out the suspension before remeasuring.
     There's a real neat trick for setting toe-in with a carpenter's square,
masking tape and a tape measure.  I'll give you that one at another time.
Dick Byrd
byrd@mnsinc.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 22:05:47 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Me/Mine/mods

In a message dated 96-03-07 21:14:27 EST, gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
(Gregory Chan) writes:

>If you are going to put a cam bigger than 272you will definitely 
>have to modify the EFI as it will NOT idle. I put 2-288 cams in and 
>it would not idle anywhere even if I turned it up. I had to drive 
>with my right foot on both pedals until I figured out what to do.
>If you are interested in this modification let me know.
>
I just secured a TRD header (chromed) from my brother in FL in "good shape".
We'll see. He got it from an IT guy he knows. Too bad I didn't get on the
list a few days sooner. Anyway, I was figuring on putting cams into the
motor, but haven't done much research on the 4AGE yet. The head looks like a
pretty good design as is. To date, I got rid of the cat and made up a 2 1/2 "
exhaust from the flex pipe back and installed a K&N. No other mods were made
to the motor yet. I figured the header won't change much, as the real problem
with the motor is intake restriction with the stock airbox, airflow meter and
assorted plumbing. I was figuring on variable potentiometers from the coolant
sensor to trick the ECU. The vacuum problem from a hotter cam is another
matter. I'm looking for a bit more than the stock cam, especially since I
figue they're getting round by now, but am not ready at this stage for
anything over 7500rpm. This motor has 113,000 on it, feels Ok, but until I
freshen it up, I don't want a statistic.  Please  me know about your
experiences in this matter, I am interested.

Thanks,

Bruce RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR@ n/a  

---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca (Gregory Chan)
Sender:	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
Reply-to:	gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
To:	RBC199@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
CC:	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: 96-03-07 21:14:27 EST

Guys,
          I would suggest you check with Chris before buying any 
parts elsewhere. His prices are pretty good, in fact I wish I had 
known he was around before I started to modify my 4AG motor.
If you are looking for headers Dobi makes a pretty good TRD
imitation, in fact I bought their Tri-Y and it cost me around 
$120.00. I also got one for my buddy's Civic and this cost $85.00
and is a replica of a Lightspeed. The only problem with them is that 
you would have to order it now to get it by mid-summer but the price 
is right. If you are interested I can get the number for you.
     If you are going to put a cam bigger than 272you will definitely 
have to modify the EFI as it will NOT idle. I put 2-288 cams in and 
it would not idle anywhere even if I turned it up. I had to drive 
with my right foot on both pedals until I figured out what to do.
If you are interested in this modification let me know.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 21:12:17 -0600 (CST)
From: Chris Hilliard 
To: Matti Kalalahti 
Cc: Paul Pyyvaara ,
Subject: Re: Little Angel Corolla

On Thu, 7 Mar 1996, Matti Kalalahti wrote:

> 
> According to Turbo magazine it is a '73 -> KE20...

	What issue was it?

> But probably no longer with a K-series engine ;)

	.....and just why not?    :)
   ****************************************************************
   * |\/\/\/|			      ___________________	
   * |      |                        /			 \
   * |      |      ____________     / Catch this airhead   \____
   * | (0)(0)     /            \   /         at		        \
   * C 	    _)  /                \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org  |      
   *  | ,___| <  AYE CARUMBA!!!   \                             /
   *  |   /     \                /  \    "I didn't do it,      /	
   * /====\       \____________/      \	  Nobody saw me,      ------------
   */      \   				\   You can't prove a thing!!!   /
   ***************************************\____________________________/

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 23:16:07 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re:  Magnecor Wires

Brian asked about carb tuning.  I'm not the master, but here is my
best shot:

Tuning is kind of an art, or a soft science at best.  Not only do you
have to fiddle with the idle and mixture, as you mentioned, but you
need to be checking the timing while you do it.  Unfortunately, I am
not a guru at this, and what I do know doesn't lend itself to being
taught via email!  If you think your timing is about right, let that
go.  You want to set your idle first (assuming the mixture is rich 
enough that the engine will run) then screw the mixture down until the
idle drops, then back off about half a turn.  I think this is pretty
much the "standard line" about adjusting carb's.

Weber provides these instructions:

1.) With engine off, open the choke completely, by hand.
2.) Back-off idle speed screw completely (until the screw no longer
    contacts the screw stop.)
3.) Readjust the idle speed screw to a point contacting the idle stop,
    then proceed 1/4 turn further.
4.) Screw the mixture screw (needle valve screw) all the way in.  DO
    NOT FORCE!
5.) Back-off the idle mixture screw 1.5 turns.
6.) Start engine.
7.) Smooth out idle by moving the idle mixture screw in or out to
    achieve the smoothest idle.
8.) Set idle speed to specified rpm and readjust mixture screw(s) to
    achieve smoothest idle.
9.) Repeat 7 and 8 until a smooth idle at specified rpm is achieved.

Ok, yes, that is different than what I said in the first paragraph--
I'm allowed to have my own opinion, eh?  (right or wrong...)  This is
a bit trickier on a 38 DGS because of the dual mixture screws.  I try
to adjust these at the same time and keep them exactly at the same place,
but this is kind of trickey.

I know that Koji is better at this kind of stuff than I am.  Any words
of wisdom, Koji?

Chris

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 23:54:06 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher Myer)
Subject: Re: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings

>I was told, quite recently, no one makes poly bushings for the MR2, and that
>right now, TRD was the only source of bushings for the MR2 and they were hard
>rubber, AND, they were unavailable. 

LIES, I tell you, Lies!

Energy Suspension Bushings:
	93 Front Control Arm and Strut Rod Bushing Set
		8-3110, $28.76
	91-93 Rear Control Arm and Strut Rod Bushing Set
		8-3111, $30.94
	93 Front Sway Bar Bushing Set, 8-5110, $8.21
	91-93 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Set, 8-5111, $8.21

I wouldn't stake my life on these year listings.  This was from an old
ES catalog.  The new one indicates that all these part numbers will
fiter everything from 91-94.  Lance H. should be able to let us
know real soon, when he installs his set.  Give us a report, Lance!

Chris

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 00:52:01 -0500

 a message dated 96-03-08 00:01:36 EST, cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher
Myer) writes:

>>right now, TRD was the only source of bushings for the MR2 and they were
>hard
>>rubber, AND, they were unavailable. 
>
>LIES, I tell you, Lies!

Hi Chris - I meant for the first generation MR2...sorry.

Bruce Crawford
RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 n/a
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher Myer)
Sender:	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
To:	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: 96-03-08 00:01:36 EST

>I was told, quite recently, no one makes poly bushings for the MR2, and that
>right now, TRD was the only source of bushings for the MR2 and they were
hard
>rubber, AND, they were unavailable. 

LIES, I tell you, Lies!

Energy Suspension Bushings:
	93 Front Control Arm and Strut Rod Bushing Set
		8-3110, $28.76
	91-93 Rear Control Arm and Strut Rod Bushing Set
		8-3111, $30.94
	93 Front Sway Bar Bushing Set, 8-5110, $8.21
	91-93 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Set, 8-5111, $8.21

I wouldn't stake my life on these year listings.  This was from an old
ES catalog.  The new one indicates that all these part numbers will
fiter everything from 91-94.  Lance H. should be able to let us
know real soon, when he installs his set.  Give us a report, Lance!

Chris

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Alignment
To: RBC199@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 00:53:44 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> Where, or better yet, how far into the boonies is this guy? I have yet to
> find a good alignment guy here in Staten Island, NY, despite several
> attempts. I've considered driving to Florida to see my brother to get a
> decent job done (and it's a hell of an excuse to go on vacation). Anyone know
> a good front end guy in Central NJ or NYC? I just replaced F&R ball joints
> and front tie rod ends one afternoon last week and can't seem to get the
> alignment job done right. 
> 
> Bruce RBC199@aol.com
> '89 MR2 n/a with very few options
>

Dear Bruce,

	The place is Brewster Tire, in Brewster, NY.  He was recommended to
me by the head of the Westchester County Sports Car Club.  A good handful of
people attest that this place does very accurate alignment to your specs.  I
can get you the number for them soon if you like.  They've mounted tires for
us before and done two alignments and I am pretty happy with their service
and prices.

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 23:07:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings
To: aly abulkheir ,
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

>Recently, our friend Mitchell Baghdo.. mentioned that polyurethane
>suspension bushings "make the ride much harsher" compared to harder rubber
>bushings like TRD's.  

If you only intend to put the poly bushings in the swaybar mounts, the harshness 
 when driven in a straight line will not be very noticeable unless the roads are 
significantly rough, but cornering response will be more firm.

If you intend to upgrade other suspension bushings as well, yes the ride will be 
more harsh since the stock rubber bushings absorb some of the shock, whereas 
poly bushings tend to transmit it.

Kip Anderson
kca@interserv.com

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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings 
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 19:21:12 +1100
From: Peter Mejak 

>If you only intend to put the poly bushings in the swaybar mounts, the harshness
>when driven in a straight line will not be very noticeable unless the roads are 
>significantly rough, but cornering response will be more firm.

	Here's something interesting I was told when I had a new front bar
	installed, along with poly bushes on the links : (apparently) using
	poly bushes on a bar of a certain width gives the same effect as if
	a 1mm larger bar with rubber bushes is being used.  Don't know how
	true this is though.

	Cheers,

	Peter.

======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 07:24:47 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

>Thanks - did you notice any improvement (other than weight) with the header?   
>What sort of muffler are you using? Did you eliminate the Cat (I killed        
>mine)? And did you notice any leanness after installation of the header?       
                                                                                
I noticed slight top-end improvement with my TRD header - above 4300rpm.        
I'm still running a cat, and I have a Monza exhaust on my car (not highly       
recommended due to noise).  I haven't noticed any leanness.  Overall, I         
wasn't impressed with what the header did for my car relative to the other      
cars I've put headers on, mostly due to the better factory design of the        
Toyota compared to these other makes.  However, the combination of header,      
tailpipe, and K&N open filter has given me more power on top than a stocker,    
as proven in side-by-side comparisons with my friend's car.                     
                                                                                
Also, that number for Select Sales is correct.  Ask for Steve.                  
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2                                                                        
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 07:43:33 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Anti-sway bars

                                                                                
Bryan Zublin writes:                                                            
                                                                                
> harshness.  The only advantage I can see with these bars are that they are    
adjustable.  Spend your money on the shocks, springs, and tires first, IMHO.    
                                                                                
I have a 1988 MR2 which came with only an 18mm front bar (no rear bar).         
I have installed the Addco bars on my car (irritating story as to how           
that happened...), which are 22.2mm front and 19mm rear.  I noticed a           
HUGE difference in the behavior of the car.  It previously had absolutely       
awful understeer, as set up by Toyota to protect the weenies who can't          
handle rear weight bias, and this setup has cured most of that problem.         
The car doesn't lean at all now (it is otherwise a stock suspension) and        
it is much more neutral.  I would suggest an ST front bar (21mm) set on         
maximum with the big 19mm rear bar I have - I think this setup would be         
ideal as the car still has a bit too much understeer for my taste right         
now.  I have also driven my friend's 1986, which is stock other than the        
addition of a 1985 rear bar, and that car was set up much better from           
Toyota.  Thus, earlier cars may not need such a drastic rear end upgrade.       
I felt the bars were a very good place to start for a suspension upgrade.       
Just some thoughts....                                                          
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2, 38000 miles and a long way from warmth in Detroit...                  
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              
                                                                                

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 07:43:43 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Squirrly

                                                                                
>Hmmmm....I can only speculate.  I would (1) make sure the alignment was done   
>correctly (did it act this way between the time you put in the struts to       
>when you had the alignment done?) (2) Make sure everything is tight (strut     
>assembly, nuts at top of strut mounting, bottom, etc.), (3) are the tires in   
                                                                                
I had/have a similar problem.  On my MKI I had severe shimmying in the front    
end.  It turned out the tires on the car were never balanced from the           
previous owner!  New tires (A509s) solved that problem.  I still have a "clunk" 
in the front end on certain bumps that I believe is the steering rack.  I've    
eliminated everything else I can think of, including struts, wheels, rack       
bushings, and tires.                                                            
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 07:58:25 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: TRD Header

                                                                                
>I'd mention that I bought mine from Select Sales in Miami, Florida for $250    
>and saved about $75.  You can reach them at (305) 888-2828.  If this number    
>is wrong, email me and I'll double check it.  Just thought I'd help            
>you out and save you some money.                                               
>  I'd like to know how the car acted differently with the addition of          
>the Ignition amplifier (Jacobs)                                                
                                                                                
Thanks - did you notice any improvement (other than weight) with the header?    
What sort of muffler are you using? Did you eliminate the Cat (I killed         
mine)? And did you notice any leanness after installation of the header?        
--------------------                                                            
                                                                                
I have the TRD header in my basement to be installed this spring, along with    
the HKS pipe and a set of 260 degree cams.  I plan on doing the mods in         
stages and will be posting the changes as I see them.                           
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 08:08:22 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: ST Bars

                                                                                
Bryan writes:                                                                   
                                                                                
>I was very disappointed in the ST sway bars for my MR2, compared to the ST     
>bars for my 1980 Celica.  These were much larger than stock, and reduced the   
>lean significantly.                                                            
--------------                                                                  
                                                                                
This is very interesting.  I have the stock front and rear bars on my '86       
right now, and with the A509s I like the understeer/oversteer characteristics   
as is.  I'll be installing light wheels with an old set of A008Rs this spring,  
along with ST Bars (also in the basement...  :)  ) and hope to get even better  
handling with reduced lean...  I'll let you guys know how it goes.              
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2 - Just when I though winter was over, it's 4 degrees F outside...      
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 08:26:29 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Header/Cams/etc...

                                                                                
Bruce writes:                                                                   
                                                                                
>to the motor yet. I figured the header won't change much, as the real problem  
>with the motor is intake restriction with the stock airbox, airflow meter and  
>assorted plumbing. I was figuring on variable potentiometers from the coolant  
>sensor to trick the ECU. The vacuum problem from a hotter cam is another       
>matter. I'm looking for a bit more than the stock cam, especially since I      
-------------------                                                             
                                                                                
I yanked all the intake plumbing off my '86, and replaced the right angle       
inlet hose between the MAF and TVIS with a $5 rubber hose from the local        
hardware store.  This hose is only about 6" long, so it allowed me to install   
a 6" cone filter I got from Select Sales.  Now I have a direct shot into TVIS   
with a HUGE inlet area on the filter.  This is the only mod I was able to get   
done before winter because of delivery problems with my exhaust.  I noticed a   
significant change in intake noise (which sounds pretty cool...) and for the    
first time was able to *feel* the TVIS kick in at around 4200 RPM.  I can now   
hear the change and feel it.                                                    
                                                                                
Note, I'm still running stock exhaust right now (with a hole in it!!) and I     
expect to see more effect when the TRD header and HKS pipe go on this spring,   
and even more gains when the cams are installed.                                
                                                                                
If anyone wants details on what it took to put the rubber pipe in I'll be       
happy to elaborate.                                                             
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: LAWTONWA@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 08:40:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

name:Bill Lawton

Location: Miami University Oxford, Ohio

Model: 1988 Mr2, normally asp.
       Two Tone Silver, T-Bar, All Options

Engine: 4AGE

Mods:  None yet just purchased car with 95,000 on the odometer, planning
       suspension, tire, and exhuast upgrades.

Email: Lawtonwa@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 09:26:56 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Anti-sway bars                                                   

*** Resending note of 03/08/96 09:12                                            
                                                                                
Chris Berchin writes:                                                           
                                                                                
>I have a 1988 MR2 which came with only an 18mm front bar (no rear bar).        
>I have installed the Addco bars on my car (irritating story as to how          
>that happened...), which are 22.2mm front and 19mm rear.  I noticed a          
>HUGE difference in the behavior of the car.  It previously had absolutely      
>awful understeer, as set up by Toyota to protect the weenies who can't         
>handle rear weight bias, and this setup has cured most of that problem.        
>The car doesn't lean at all now (it is otherwise a stock suspension) and       
>it is much more neutral.  I would suggest an ST front bar (21mm) set on        
>maximum with the big 19mm rear bar I have - I think this setup would be        
>ideal as the car still has a bit too much understeer for my taste right        
>now.  I have also driven my friend's 1986, which is stock other than the       
>addition of a 1985 rear bar, and that car was set up much better from          
>Toyota.  Thus, earlier cars may not need such a drastic rear end upgrade.      
>I felt the bars were a very good place to start for a suspension upgrade.      
>Just some thoughts....                                                         
--------------                                                                  
                                                                                
I've driven Chris' 88 MK1 back to back with my '86, and I have to agree with    
the assessment above.  Before he put the ADDCO bars on his car, I took his car  
out for a test run through a very familiar corner that I routinely "fly"        
through in my '86.  Chris was laughing hysterically after the turn as I was     
stuffing my eyeballs back their sockets and sopping up the excrement I laid     
in my pants...  His car went STRAIGHT while my '86 would have taken the turn    
with a slight initial plow followed up by the rear end coming nicely around,    
and he's the one with the AVS Intermediates!!!                                  
                                                                                
His car now (with the bars) doesn't lean much at all and has totally different  
characteristics.  I've yet to take it through that corner again... but I will!  
                                                                                
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 08:33:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Anti-sway bars
To: "Christopher T. Berchin" ,

>maximum with the big 19mm rear bar I have - I think this setup would be        
>ideal as the car still has a bit too much understeer for my taste right        
>now.  I have also driven my friend's 1986, which is stock other than the       
>addition of a 1985 rear bar, and that car was set up much better from          
>Toyota.  Thus, earlier cars may not need such a drastic rear end upgrade.      
>I felt the bars were a very good place to start for a suspension upgrade.      
>Just some thoughts....                                                        

Replace the rear bushings first.  This will reduce some of the understeer while 
stiffening the cornering response.

Kip Anderson
kca@interserv.com

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 08:37:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Stiff Steering
To: Tony York ,

On Fri, 08 Mar 96, Tony York  wrote:

>
>I have noticed quite a bit of grease near the left hand disc brakes 
>by the rubber boot on the driveshaft. It seems to be affecting my 
>braking (Juddering on heavy braking). Could this be grease on the 
>discs or something like that ? (I fitted new discs about two months 
>ago).

Check your CV joints.  Grease around the outside of the rubber boots could 
indicate a cracked boot, and thus contaminated bearings.

The "juddering" under braking sounds like a CV joint problem.  How is it under 
hard acceleration?

Kip Anderson
kca@interserv.com

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 08:41:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings 
To: Peter Mejak ,

On Fri, 08 Mar 96, Peter Mejak  wrote:

>
>	Here's something interesting I was told when I had a new front bar
>	installed, along with poly bushes on the links : (apparently) using
>	poly bushes on a bar of a certain width gives the same effect as if
>	a 1mm larger bar with rubber bushes is being used.  Don't know how
>	true this is though.

True.  Rubber bushings don't allow the suspension to work as much.  Just 
swapping out the sway-bar bushings will give a very noticeable improvement in 
cornering flattness, and using a different type at each end is an effective way 
to tune handling if the bars are relatively well matched.

Kip Anderson
kca@interserv.com

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Stiff Steering
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 09:11:56 PST

Hi list,

	I am starting to have a problem with my steering, it is 
getting stiff when I turn the wheel, only in places, but it seems to 
be getting stiffer. I also have a rattling on the front end 
somewhere, could this have anything to do with the steering ?

I have noticed quite a bit of grease near the left hand disc brakes 
by the rubber boot on the driveshaft. It seems to be affecting my 
braking (Juddering on heavy braking). Could this be grease on the 
discs or something like that ? (I fitted new discs about two months 
ago).

Help !

Tony York

Radstone Technology Plc
Water Lane
Towcester
Northants
England
NN12 6JN

Tel:	01327 359444 Ext:2389
Fax:	01327 358113
Email:	york@radstone.co.uk

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 12:45:13 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Header/Cams/etc...

In a message dated 96-03-08 08:34:59 EST, daucott@e-mail.com (G. D. Aucott)
Dave writes:

>If anyone wants details on what it took to put the rubber pipe in I'll be
>
>happy to elaborate........
>
>Dave Aucott 

Yeah, please do. It's a good idea. I'm jealous I didn't think of that.

Bruce
RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2

---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	daucott@e-mail.com (G. D. Aucott)
Sender:	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
To:	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: 96-03-08 08:34:59 EST

Bruce writes:

>to the motor yet. I figured the header won't change much, as the real problem  
>with the motor is intake restriction with the stock airbox, airflow meter and  
>assorted plumbing. I was figuring on variable potentiometers from the coolant  
>sensor to trick the ECU. The vacuum problem from a hotter cam is another
>matter. I'm looking for a bit more than the stock cam, especially since I
-------------------

I yanked all the intake plumbing off my '86, and replaced the right angle
inlet hose between the MAF and TVIS with a $5 rubber hose from the local
hardware store.  This hose is only about 6" long, so it allowed me to install
a 6" cone filter I got from Select Sales.  Now I have a direct shot into TVIS
with a HUGE inlet area on the filter.  This is the only mod I was able to get
done before winter because of delivery problems with my exhaust.  I noticed a
significant change in intake noise (which sounds pretty cool...) and for the
first time was able to *feel* the TVIS kick in at around 4200 RPM.  I can now
hear the change and feel it.

Note, I'm still running stock exhaust right now (with a hole in it!!) and I
expect to see more effect when the TRD header and HKS pipe go on this spring,
and even more gains when the cams are installed.

If anyone wants details on what it took to put the rubber pipe in I'll be
happy to elaborate.
..............
Dave Aucott
1986 MR2
daucott@e-mail.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 12:46:10 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Pot on sensor trick

In a message dated 96-03-08 07:59:08 EST, jmontign%spc.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (JEFF
MONTIGNY - NEW PRODUCTS ENGINEER) writes:

> would like some info on the effect of a pot on the sensor. A person in the
>Supras goup mentioned this too, but would not give details because he read
it
>in a book and was honoring the (c) gods, sheesh.
> I was looking in my tech manual at this sensor too. I can't determine the
>performance effect at this time...can you help please?
>
>ps:I learned how to drive stick in a new '87 MR2, and always liked them too!
>
The sensor tells the ECU how hot/cold the engine is to adjust the fuel
delivery to the motor. Cooler engine - more fuel, Hot engine - less fuel.
This is a gross adjustment, not a fine tuned one. 

I just got my Mar/Apr issue of Grassroots Motor Sports yesterday, and they
have an article on doing exactly that. They're apparently way smarter than I
am. I was figuring on a Haltech meter (about $130) and a couple of 10K
potentiometers to obtain the full range of 0-20,000K that the sensor
provides. However, in the article, it says Select Sales if offering this
exact setup with their meter for $55. I'm buying it -it's cheaper than I
could do myself. When I get it in I'll post the results.  

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	jmontign%spc.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (JEFF MONTIGNY - NEW PRODUCTS ENGINEER)
To:	RBC199@aol.com%GPO.dnet@gpo.nsc.com
Date: 96-03-08 07:59:08 EST

>I was figuring on variable potentiometers from the coolant
>sensor to trick the ECU. 
>Bruce RBC199@aol.com
>'89 MR@ n/a  
 Hi Bruce,
 I would like some info on the effect of a pot on the sensor. A person in the
Supras goup mentioned this too, but would not give details because he read it
in a book and was honoring the (c) gods, sheesh.
 I was looking in my tech manual at this sensor too. I can't determine the
performance effect at this time...can you help please?

ps:I learned how to drive stick in a new '87 MR2, and always liked them too!

Thanks!
Jeff M.
    ___          ___   ___   ____         '89 HKS Stage III equiv.
    \___  \   \  \__)  \__)  \___\ 
     ___\  \___\  \     \  \  \   \ *Every thing else is just
transportation.* 
      ____          ___   ___   ____
        \    \   \  \__)  \  )  \   \              "MY TURN"
         \    \___\  \  \  \__)  \___\  See me at: http://www.supras.com

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 15:15:46 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Pot on sensor trick

 
>> I just got my Mar/Apr issue of Grassroots Motor Sports yesterday, and they   
>> have an article on doing exactly that. They're apparently way smarter than I 
>> am. I was figuring on a Haltech meter (about $130) and a couple of 10K       
>> potentiometers to obtain the full range of 0-20,000K that the sensor         
>> provides. However, in the article, it says Select Sales if offering this     
>> exact setup with their meter for $55. I'm buying it -it's cheaper than I     
>> could do myself. When I get it in I'll post the results.                     

I am VERY interested in this "trick" or even more so with the Select Sales      
unit.  I read about this in the Toyota Performance Handbook and have been       
wondering how effective it is.  As for Select Sales, "Mad Man" Steve mentioned  
he had something better but didn't elaborate (a first for him... if you've      
talked to him you know what I mean...).  I have their catalog but don't see     
it there... hmmm... What is it called?                                          

Oh, and by the way, a full description on the intake modification is            
forthcoming...  lots of interest!                                               

..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 15:41:25 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MK1 Intake Mod

                                                                                
I've received several requests for info on removing *all* the intake plumbing   
on the MK1, so here goes (this gets long)...                                    
                                                                                
The MK1s have a rubber pipe that goes from the MAF to TVIS.  On the 85/86 this  
pipe is about 8-10 inches long and has a slight bend, on '87/88 the pipe is     
longer and has two severe (90 degree) bends.  This pipe can be replaced with    
a single, straight rubber pipe about 6" long for around $5.  Procedure:         
                                                                                
85/86:  Remove *all* the intake plumbing including the airbox, rubber hose,     
MAF, filter, resonance box, etc.  This will require you to remove a couple      
bolts and brackets, disconnect the MAF, and (if you have air conditioning)      
disconnect the vacuum line for the idle-up circuit (?).  You will now have a    
BIG hole where the airbox used to be.                                           
                                                                                
Measure the inside diameter of the rubber pipe or the outside diameter of the   
TVIS side of the pipe.  If I remember right it's about 2.5 inches (65mm or so). 
Go to your local hardware store -- I've seen the rubber pipes at Builder's      
Square, Home Depot, and the local stores, so they're common.  In the pipe       
section you'll find several diameters of a rubber pipe with wall thickness      
of about 1/4 inch (7mm) and about 5-6 inches long.  Choose the one closest to   
the diameter you measured... don't rely on the writing on the package, for      
some reason a 2" pipe is really something like 2 3/8.  It should be under $10.  
                                                                                
The MAF diameter is about 1/4 inch larger than the TVIS side, so once you have  
the pipe you'll have to MASSAGE (stretch) the pipe onto the MAF.  This is       
difficult because the rubber is stiff, but it works (stretch it with your       
hands first, then work it onto the MAF in a circular manner).  Clamp it in      
place and go back to the car.  The other end of the pipe will slide right onto  
the TVIS.                                                                       
                                                                                
Next you'll have to make some brackets to support the MAF because you've        
moved it closer to the opening in the hood (higher in the engine compartment).  
Simple brackets will work, and there are plenty of places to bolt them down     
inside the engine compartment (thanks, Toyota).                                 
                                                                                
If you have an '85/86, you'll need the adaptor to go on the end of the MAF.     
This is a small cast aluminum plate that bolts to the MAF where the airbox      
was and provides a round flange to mount your filter on.  This can be bought    
from Select Sales or Options (Chris, do you have this?).  The '87/88 already    
have this built into the MAF so you won't need it.                              
                                                                                
I installed the Select Sales cone filter, which *just* fits inside the shock    
tower.  This is a nice cone filter, but I suppose you could use K&N or any      
other filter of 6 inches or less.                                               
                                                                                
If you don't have air conditioning, THAT'S IT!  You're done.  It took me        
about 1 hour.  If you have air conditioning, you need to figure a way to        
reattach the vacuum line.  I haven't reattached mine yet (just unplugged the    
connector that turns on the vacuum), but I'll be either installing a fitting    
into the MAF flange (drill, tap, screw in place) or using the fitting from      
the old rubber pipe, drilling an undersized hole in the side of the new         
rubber pipe, and inserting the fitting there with an interference fit.  I       
don't know if this will work yet though.  The fitting WILL work.                
                                                                                
I think that's enough for now.  If there are additional questions feel free     
to ask.  Chris Berchin removed all the plumbing from his '88 (significantly     
different) so I'll ask him to post on removing that.                            
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 15:51:51 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Air intake info

                                                                                
The number for Options is 1-800-678-2886.                                       
                                                                                
It's been about 9 months since I did this...hope I remember everything!         
If you have an 87-89, you'll need to rip out the ducting around the stock       
air filter.  Note that the intake actually passes through the front of the      
trunk - you'll need to seal that hole or else your trunk will get wet.          
I haven't found a good method yet for this, but so far 100mph tape has          
been working well enough.                                                       
                                                                                
To remove the piece of the intake that goes through the trunk, you'll           
need to remove the trim pieces in the trunk.  Fortunately Toyota                
used those little plastic re-usable pins, so this is easy.                      
                                                                                
You will have to unbolt the resonator box - there are 2 bolts that              
hold this in.  Be careful not to mangle any mounting points - I think           
they will be good to use for relocating the MAF.  Once you get this             
out, you should be able to pull the hose leading into the MAF off,              
exposing the flange that you will attach the new filter to.  At this point,     
I simply attached my K&N filter to the MAF - this required unbolting the        
MAF to fit the filter on.  Once the filter was on, I could only reinstall       
2 of the 3 MAF bolts.  However, none of this will matter once I relocate        
my MAF in the same way Dave has.                                                
                                                                                
There is still some ducting left in the trunk and right quarter - I haven't     
yet removed mine (Ever wonder why golf bags don't fit in 1987-89 MR2's?         
Now you know.), but I plan to this summer.  When I do, I'll post info           
on it.  I figure the whole system is good for about 8lb minimum weight          
reduction, as well as a major flow increase.  My MR2 became much more           
responsive with just this mod.  I also got some cool intake noise.              
                                                                                
If anyone has any questions, please drop me a line!                             
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2, dying of hypothermia                                                  
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
Closures Panel Technology           Phone: (313) 31-74946                       
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com    Fax: (313) 84-55424                       

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Springs 'n things
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 12:52:40 PST

Any idea on where I can get lowering springs (I have the fitting 
equipment) and some poly bushes. Also prices on both and availability 
in Britain ?

Any help ? thanks.
Tony York

Radstone Technology Plc
Water Lane
Towcester
Northants
England
NN12 6JN

Tel:	01327 359444 Ext:2389
Fax:	01327 358113
Email:	york@radstone.co.uk

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 15:52:47 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Header/Cams/etc...

                                                                                
Bruce writes (regarding the intake change):                                     
                                                                                
>>Yeah, please do. It's a good idea. I'm jealous I didn't think of that.        
---------------------                                                           
                                                                                
I'd love to take credit for it, but I can't.  Steve at Select Sales told me     
to do it if I wanted the best system.  I had a K&N in the airbox before this    
mod, and there is a HUGE difference... Steve was right.                         
                                                                                
It's so easy it makes me sick.  :)                                              
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Wrong Signature
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 12:55:57 PST

Sorry, 

	I keep sending my messages with the wrong signature. 
The previous messages are in relation to a Corolla GT-S (GT Twin Cam 
16V in England). 
(Springs, Bushes, Stiff Steering).

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 16:13:47 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: The hose

                                                                                
Aly writes:                                                                     
                                                                                
> Dave,                                                                         
>    Yes, I would really appreciate the details of this rubber pipe             
> installation.  Did you move the MAF so that the pipe would be straight        
> instead of the S-curve it makes when stock?  Also, how much was this 6" cone  
> filter from Select Sales (and is it a K&N, did it include the mounting        
> hardware, what do I tell them if I want to buy the same thing)?               
----------------------------                                                    
                                                                                
I bought the adaptor plate and filter from Steve at Select Sales about 6        
months ago.  The filter is one they developed themselves through their          
development wing of the business.  Mine has a plastic cone center and a         
material similar to K&N on the outside...  This funnels the air directly into   
the MAF.  I talked to Steve the other day and they have a new version of the    
same filter that puts filter material where my plastic cone is.  This gives     
you much more breathing area than I currently have.                             
                                                                                
I *think* I paid around $110 US for the filter and adaptor.  I don't know       
what the current price is or what they are separately (just the filter).  My    
friend Chris bought the plate from Options by mistake (didn't need it in his    
'88) and it was roughly $40.  Clamps are included.                              
                                                                                
The filter looks **really** cool, and works just as well.  It's positioned      
RIGHT under the hood vent and can be seen from outside the car if you look for  
it.  Downside?  No protection from the elements (rain), but not much goes in    
there when you're driving.  If you wanted you could make a deflector shield,    
but that would limit the amount of fresh air you get from the vent and          
increase the hot air intake from the engine bay.                                
                                                                                
There ya go!  A long winded answer to a short question.  Just ask for Steve,    
mention the sytem (and me if you want)... he'll know what you're talking        
about.  I believe they're calling their filter the "Powermax."                  
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 16:19:25 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: RE>Pot on sensor trick

In a message dated 96-03-08 15:00:38 EST, you write:

>I was curious what type of meter you are talking about....what does it 
>display?

It displays fuel/air mixture..ie.LEAN------RICH. It uses the existing o2
sensor and makes like a bit easier when tuning the EFI. 

Bruce    RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 n/a

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 16:48:17 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Pot on sensor trick

In a message dated 96-03-08 15:35:28 EST, you write:

> As for Select Sales, "Mad Man" Steve mentioned  
>he had something better but didn't elaborate (a first for him... if you've
>
>talked to him you know what I mean...).  I have their catalog but don't see
>
>it there... hmmm... What is it called?

Uh, uhm, ..the Select Sales dash mounted digital air/fuel gauge with
potentiometers. I also noticed they've got and add in GRM for something
called the "MapFueler" which is a user programmable injector driver that
works in conjunction with the factoru ECU. It sez "from $269 and up"..and
looks like a pretty neat device. Another thingy I saw them advertising was
the "Superchips ICON"  supplementary computer which lists at $295.It doesn't
look programmable. Anybody have any experience with these goodies?

Bruce  RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 n/a

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 16:48:37 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Header/Cams/etc...

In a message dated 96-03-08 16:03:22 EST, you write:

>>>Yeah, please do. It's a good idea. I'm jealous I didn't think of that.

>It's so easy it makes me sick.  :)
                                      
Sometimes I wonder how I could possibly even be smart enough to drive my car
much less modify it. This was (another) one of those things that got lost in
my euphoria of having the car...

Bruce  
RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 with dumb pilot

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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 15:38:59 -0700 (MST)
From: Lance Heinrich 
Subject: Re: Poly vs. hard rubber bushings
To: Christopher Myer 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Looks like the weather is supposed to be nearing 10 degC (50 F) this 
weekend, so it'll be warm enough to go into the unheated garage and 
slowly start playing.  I'm going to be tearing everything apart first 
(since I can only afford to kill one day this weekend), so I can start 
figuring out all the bits that'll require fabrication work (trailer 
hitch, intake, brake ducting).  The first actual changes I'll make are 
the front bushings, since those are the ones that are questionable 
(packaging indicates that they will NOT go on a '91 or '92), but we don't 
believe the packaging :-)  Doubt I'll get to it this weekend, but likely 
in two weeks.  

First event is April 28, assuming winter has left us (it was -27 degC, 
-17 F in the morning yesterday), so I need to get all the work done by 
then.  Once the autox season gets into gear, I don't have a lot of time 
to do any extra work, so I try to get it all done in the off-season.

> I wouldn't stake my life on these year listings.  This was from an old
> ES catalog.  The new one indicates that all these part numbers will
> fiter everything from 91-94.  Lance H. should be able to let us
> know real soon, when he installs his set.  Give us a report, Lance!
> 
> Chris

Lance.
      ---------------------------------------------------------------
      | Lance Heinrich        @       Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
      | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
      |
      | 1991 MR2 Turbo
      | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: Little Angel Corolla
To: cxh6989@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris Hilliard)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 03:19:07 +0200 (EET)
Cc: k124476@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, paulp@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,

> > According to Turbo magazine it is a '73 -> KE20...
> 
> 	What issue was it?

March 1996 (the latest one)

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 20:26:35 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: Haltech E5 or similar

>	Chris Myer, what is your general opinion of full replacement
>computers like these? :^)

They are usually critical if you are trying to squeeze every last
living, breathing HP out of an engine, but kinda pricey otherwise.
When I build my ultimate Celica (my life's project) it will have
a MoTec computer.  This approximately $2000 mother of all engine 
controllers is one sexy package.  Here's some info:

MoTec M SEQ-P Engine Control Unit
=================================
Motorola 32-bit Processor (33MHz)
Programs via Flash Prom (In-Car Programming)
840 point fuel matrix
840 point spark matrix
User Defined Speed Density, Mass Air Flow, and Throttle Mapping
10 bit A/D converter
6VDC-16VDC operating range
Asynchronous TTL Microwire serial port
1-12 Cylinders
2 or 4 stroke
15,000 rpm max
8 sequential injector drivers, 4:1 peak and hold w/switch mode
Ignition Timing 0-51 degress with .2 degree (crank) resolution
4 user defineable logic outputs
Input for knock sensor
Boost, Idle Speed, and Lambda Control
Max 512K SRAM for On-board Data Logging
Data Logging of 5 samples/second of 38 channels for 12 minutes
Radio Telemetry ready with addition of radio modems

Once you've got all this stuff, it would be really nice to see all of
this, right?  The controller includes PC software called Graph View
which is just absolutely awesome!  It looks like a really cool virtual
dashboard.  My ultimate goal is to find a way of embedding a Color LCD
screen into the dashboard and using this as my guages.  The intended
purpose is to give you a recorded playback of the data stored in the
SRAM mentioned above.

Graph View Program includes display of:
Vehicle Speed
Engine Speed
Gear Selection
Fuel Octane
Throttle Position
Clutch Slip
Lambda (Air/Fuel Ratio)
MAP/EMAP
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Tank Level
Engine Temperature
Air Temperatur
4 Auxilary Inputs (User Defined)
Battery Voltage Level

(Um, some of these are guesses from looking at the small amount of
literature that I have.)

BTW, that $2000 covers _none_ of the many parts that you would need
to install and acutally use this beauty--sensors, actuators, injectors,
solid state electronics, etc.

But I digress--the subject was HalTech.  I have literature on several
different HalTech products.  Here is some of it...

HalTech Products
================
F3 and F7B Engine Management System
-----------------------------------
If you're looking for an inexpensive system to feed a non-forced induction
engine, the F&B system is for you.  The F7B  is a throttle position
controlled injection system.  If your application includes a turbocharger or
other forced induction unit, manifold pressure must be used as the primary
load sensor.  The F3 system computes air flow based on manifold absolute
pressure and engine speed.  The F3
can also be used to drive an throttle position controlled (naturally
aspirated) engine if you need more than the F7B's limit of 8 injectors (the
F3 can drive up to 16.)

E6 Engine Managment System
--------------------------
The E6 System is the optimal programmable fuel injection system.  This unit
manages both the fuel and ignition timing requirements of an engine.  Like
the F3 system, it can sense engine load using either manifold pressure or
throttle position.  However, for manifold pressure readings, the E6 uses a
more accurate and faster response pressure guage than the F3, and rpm
resolution is doubled.

IG4 Ignition Timing Computer
----------------------------
A standalone fully mappable ignition timing computer.  Programmed in a
similar fashion as the F3, F7B, and E6.  Can be used with a variety of
ignition systems.

F5 Supplementary Fuel Injection Computer
----------------------------------------
A supplementary fuel injection computer for control of additional injectors
for turbo or supercharges engines.  It can be used in conjunction with a
carburetor or OEM computer.  Can also be used to manager the injection of
water or methanol in turbocharged engines.

Retail Prices as of May 1994
----------------------------
F7B for 1-4 Injectors......................$802.00
F7B for 5-8 Injectors......................$842.00
F3 for 4/6/8/12/16 Injectors...............$883/915/948/1166/1304
E6 for 4/6/8 Injectors.....................$1450/1482/1515
IG4........................................$640
F5.........................................$350
(Plus necessary wiring harnesses, etc.)

I hope this is helpful!

Chris

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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 20:52:29 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: 

>Hi Chris - I meant for the first generation MR2...sorry.

Yes, I'm afraid that is pretty much true, as far as I am aware.  You
can get Sway bar bushings and endlinks made out of poly, and this is
useful.  You can do like the original owner of my Mazda 323 did after
he drove this then brand-new 86 from the port--take all of the suspension
pieces, off, toss them into a fire and burn all of the rubber out, then
take them to a machine shop and have custom brass bushings machined for
about $100 a whack!  Not the cheap way out, ride is like being drug
down a pothole-filled road in a wooden box, but I've never been in
ANYTHING that would corner like that baby!  Of course now, 80K miles
later, the brass bushings are long gone and replaced by new stock pieces
with rubber bushings again.  Hmmmm, memories!

Chris
--
Christopher P. Myer
Cyberspace Automotive Performance
www.cyberauto.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 21:59:48 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Brass Bushings

In a message dated 96-03-08 21:00:55 EST, you write:

>ot the cheap way out, ride is like being drug
>down a pothole-filled road in a wooden box, but I've never been in
>ANYTHING that would corner like that baby! 

HeHeHe..Musta cost a bundle. I asked my brother to check out what the ITA
guys do. He spends time at the track with his buddy's 240Z ITS, so he'll have
time to check it out with the new season coming up. 

Bruce    RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 n/a 

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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 09:39:38 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Intake info


Select Sales catalog lists the POWERMAX RACING AIR FILTER KIT - NO AIRBOX       
or $99.  I believe this is the one I bought.

..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 12:00:57 -0500

-03-09 09:54:53 EST, you write:

>Select Sales catalog lists the POWERMAX RACING AIR FILTER KIT - NO AIRBOX
>
>or $99.  I believe this is the one I bought

This included the flange for the earlier '85-'86 MR2, or was that another $40
on top of the $99? 

Bruce    RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  n/a

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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 15:09:32 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: (U)

Steve B writes:                                                                 
                                                                                
>  >I have a 1988 MR2 which came with only an 18mm front bar (no rear bar).     
 >I have installed the Addco bars on my car (irritating story as to how         
 >that happened...), which are 22.2mm front and 19mm rear.  I noticed a         
 >HUGE difference in the behavior of the car.  It previously had absolutely     
                                                                                
 I've got the rear sway bar from my '85 if anyone wants to buy it in a 'kit'    
 form, for an OEM equivalent install on a later-then-'85 Mk I MR2.              
                                                                                
Please note that late 1987 (I think) and all 1988 and later MK I MR2's do       
NOT have he sway bar mounting points on the rear shock carriers.  I wanted      
to mount a Toyota rear bar on my car but could not.  Does anyone know if        
the pre-1987 shock carriers mount to a 1987 and later MK I?  If so,             
this would help a lot of people when mounting the rear bars.  The               
installation of my Addco is not all that clean, and I would have much           
prefered to use the nice ball-joined links that Toyota used.                    
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2 - hating winter                                                        
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 16:47:05 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Rear sway bar for late MK1 MR2

In a message dated 96-03-09 15:20:17 EST, you write:

>The               
>installation of my Addco is not all that clean, and I would have much
>
>prefered to use the nice ball-joined links that Toyota used.  

The S/T rear bar requires a small bracket be installed on the lower spring
perch. The recommended drilling a hole and bolting the bracket on. I thought
that was a little cheesy, so I welded mine on. Anyway, the threaded rods and
spherical rod end bearings the S/T bar uses may be a better way to go than
replacing the struts and buying the Toyota links. I'd think it'd be easy to
duplicate the link design. Pretty much any race supplier carries spherical
bearings rod ends to make your own links (I used a lot of stuff from AFCO
when I was fooling aroung with suspension links for another car a while back.
I'd guess that'd be a much superior way to have end links than with urethane
or rubber insuated links.

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 16:21:03 -0800
Subject: Re:  rubber vs. poly bushings
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Assuming that on a car with all else kept constant, the distance between the 
frame mounts is 100cm, and with a bushing thickness of 1.5cm around the bar.

Take a hypothetical compression of 1cm for the rubber bushing under full 
cornering load (a reasonable figure I think), and .125cm compression for the 
poly bushing under full load.

Consider that under full load the bushings on each end will be fully compressed, 
giving a combined total of 2cm and .25 respectively.

From these numbers, the rubber bushing is allowing the swaybar to slosh around 
1.15 degrees to each side from level.

The poly bushings on the other hand force the bar to work sooner by only 
allowing .14 degrees of total slosh from level to one side.

This is a difference of 1.01 degrees between the two compounds for straight line 
vs. steady state cornering.  The combined difference for cornering from side to 
side is 2.01 degrees.  Of course this may or may not translate to 2.01 degrees 
difference in body roll due to spring rates and other minor factors, but the 
reduction in roll is noticeable.

A larger bar will obviously provide more roll stiffness, but some tuning of the 
bar can be done by using different bushings either at the frame mounts or the 
end-links.  With two swaybars in use, this gives a range of 16 different 
combinations of bushings for fine tuning the handling.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 11:47:32 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Cams - MR2 4AGE

Any recommendations on a set of cams for phase one of my MR2 buildup? So far
the plan is mildly ported head, a Dave Aucott/Chris Berchin commemorative
intake modification, TRD header equipped motor with a  stock ECU duped
with a variable potentiometer setup. I've noticed here cams with more than
272 degree duration upset the factory ECU. Someone out there also hinted a
way to thwart the ECU's ignorance of same just a few days ago. A 3000 rpm
idle would likely upset my neighbors.  

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com

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From: Golf1par@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 12:45:26 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: (U)

In a message dated 96-03-09 15:20:17 EST, you write:

>Please note that late 1987 (I think) and all 1988 and later MK I MR2's do
>NOT have he sway bar mounting points on the rear shock carriers.  I wanted
>to mount a Toyota rear bar on my car but could not.  Does anyone know if
>the pre-1987 shock carriers mount to a 1987 and later MK I?  If so,
>this would help a lot of people when mounting the rear bars.  The
>installation of my Addco is not all that clean, and I would have much
>prefered to use the nice ball-joined links that Toyota used.            

I have an extra set of strut carriers that DO have the mounts on them.  I
doubt I will have use for them, so if anyone has an 87/88 and wants to
install the rear bar "cleanly" let me know.  We could probably work out a
deal.

Dave Aucott
1986 MR2

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From: Golf1par@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 12:48:20 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cams - MR2 4AGE

In a message dated 96-03-10 12:01:10 EST, you write:

>Any recommendations on a set of cams for phase one of my MR2 buildup? So far
>the plan is mildly ported head, a Dave Aucott/Chris Berchin commemorative
>intake modification, TRD header equipped motor with a  stock ECU duped
>with a variable potentiometer setup.

Bruce, 

Thanks for the plug!  :)  It sounds like your car will be very similar to
mine this summer.  I'll have the intake, TRD header, HKS pipe, potentiometer
(or Select Sales gadget) for tuning fuel flow, and a set of Chris Meyer 260
degree/7.6mm lift cams.  It will be interesting to see how we compare.

I'll be posting the effects of the 260/260 setup.  My going in position is
that I won't need to do much except put them in and maybe adjust the fuel
flow.  I expect a good idle and better response... we'll see.

Dave A.
1986 MR2
daucott@e-mail.com, golf1par@aol.com

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 10:04:28 -0800
Subject: 88 Celica All-Track Turbo for sale
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

I don't recall who was looking or where you live, but I found this ad in my 
local paper:

88 Celica Turbo, All-Track, all powers, excellent condition.  $6800 OBO.
Phone (541) 465-1497

This is a Eugene, Oregon number.

FWIW

Kip Anderson
91 MR2 Turbo
kca@interserv.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 14:39:22 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cams - MR2 4AGE

In a message dated 96-03-10 12:59:26 EST, you write:

>I'll be posting the effects of the 260/260 setup.  My going in position is
>that I won't need to do much except put them in and maybe adjust the fuel
>flow.  I expect a good idle and better response... we'll see.
>
I was hoping for the 130-140HP range or so, depending on how I degreed the
cams. I'm expecting soemthing much crisper than what I've got now. As a
matter of fact, I was just ringing it out a few minutes ago to get a last
impression of the stock motor with my homebrewed muffler (that is louder, but
lighter, than I'd hoped). Do you think 272's are too much for, uh, normal
use?

Bruce
RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  113K

Is that the Daytona 200 I hear in the other room?   Gotta go.

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 18:50:51 -0500 (EST)
From: "mitchell r. baghdoian" 
To: "G. D. Aucott" 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Squirrly

snip

> previous owner!  New tires (A509s) solved that problem. I still have a "clunk"
> in the front end on certain bumps that I believe is the steering rack.  I've

snip

The front end mystery clunk on MKI MR2s is usually worn sway bar end 
links. Check them out w/the front end of the car in the air. Switching 
over to rod ends will cure the problem.

Mitch.

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Date: 11 Mar 1996 08:32:15 U
From: "Iwohara.Steve" 
Subject: RE: FW: Cams - MR2 4AGE
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Has anyone purchased aftermarket shims for a 4AGE?  Toyota only has shims up to
about 3.3 mm.  My friend is looking for shims that are in the 4-5mm range.

_______________________________________________________________________________
From: RBC199@aol.com on Mon, Mar 11, 1996 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: FW: Cams - MR2 4AGE
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

In a message dated 96-03-11 10:04:20 EST, you write:

>A friend of mine has purchased a set of cams for his 4AGE (I'm not sure of
>the
>grid, but I'll ask him when he comes in to work tomorrow) but is having
>problems locating oversized shims.  Have you purchased the shims yet?  If
so,
>can you let me know where and how much.  Thanks.
>
>Steve

Nope, I'm still looking for the cams I want (hint for Chris Myer) and looking
for a head to work on. Are the shims he's looking for unusual sizes? However,
I've had good luck getting everything I've needed from Price Toyota, Newark
DE. I just called them and they confirmed all the manufactured sizes are
readily available from Toyota. They advertise in the back of car mags. I've
ordered stuff from them for years. I've never had  luck with the local
dealer.      

Makes me wonder where my old 22R pickup is now? 

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  113K 
'88 Camry 3SFE  104K

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 21:20:13 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan)
Subject: flywheel surgery

        Hello List!

  A few months ago I asked if anyone had ever taken weight off a stock 20R
or 22R flywheel. I dont think anyone had, or replied on the 20R flywheel. 
  I wanted the quickness a lighter flywheel provided, but did'nt want to get
off my wallet to the tune of $349 for a 9 lb pound aluminum one from LC eng!
Nor did I think the 9 lb would work well for a street car with the stout
camshaft that is being installed (280/280 480lift). You would imagine it
would beat you to death at idle and be way to jerky on and off the throttle,
because the car will decelerate much quicker also. Anyway, the trick I heard
through the grapevine was to cut the large ridge off the backside of the
flywheel. The stock flywheel weight is 22 lbs. I wanted to try and get five
pounds shaved off the backside without even messing with the face of the
flywheel. That would leave me with a 17 pounder without alot of trouble.
  Well I can tell you the ridge is worth about 2 lbs, an important 2 lbs
beacause it's out at the edge of the flywheel, the other 3 lbs I got off the
back by countersinking the flat part. You may be able to take another pound
or so from the backside but I'd like to keep my bellhousing intact for now! 
  For about an hour on the lathe you can lighten the stock flywheel by 5 lbs
easily and keep your money!
  Do ya think 5 lbs will make a difference? Later!

Chris W Morgan
1979 Celica Sunchaser
1984 Celica GT Hatchback
1985 Celica GTS Convertable
celicag@magicnet.net

P.S. Other than Stillen in California, does anyone have a shop in thier town
that has a chassis dyno you can rent time on?

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 08:33:30 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 3SG / 4AGE Injectors

                                                                                
Hello everyone!  I'd imagine this issue has probably been beaten to             
death in the past, but since I'm a new member, I would have missed              
any discussions on this.  Could someone outline in detail what it               
takes to fit 3SG injectors into a 4AGE engine?  Is this simply a                
"plug and chug" operation, or is some "finessing" required?                     
If the list has been flooded with this info, feel free to reply directly        
to me.  Thanks!!!                                                               
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MK I MR2 - Detroit is warming up!!                                         
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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From: "Allan Chen" 
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 06:31:32 -0800
To: "Christopher T. Berchin" ,
Subject: Re: (U)

On Mar 9,  3:09pm, Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> Subject: (U)

> Please note that late 1987 (I think) and all 1988 and later MK I MR2's do
> NOT have he sway bar mounting points on the rear shock carriers.  I wanted
> to mount a Toyota rear bar on my car but could not.  Does anyone know if
> the pre-1987 shock carriers mount to a 1987 and later MK I?  If so,
> this would help a lot of people when mounting the rear bars.  The
> installation of my Addco is not all that clean, and I would have much
> prefered to use the nice ball-joined links that Toyota used.
			   ^^^^^^^^^^^
	Heim-joints are quite common on more upper-end sports car.  Trying
not to detract from the Toy_mods list... but I gotten into an accident
recently in my 3rd gen RX7 (which required 3.6k worth of suspension pieces)
and lo and behold the rear suspension was done in Heim-joints with a rubber
seal which I mistakened for a rubber bushing.  Now back to our normally
scheduled program.

Botoboy

-- 
*******************************************************************************
Allan Chen                
Silicon Graphics Inc. 
Mountain View, CA         
allanc@sgi.com           
*******************************************************************************

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 09:44:09 -0600
From: Todd Campbell 3258 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Exhaust

I am in need of a new muffler for my 1987 mr2. I was told that 
I could put the muffler from a later model supercharged mr2 and this
wouldproduce better "flow". Is this true ? How will this affect the
fuel injection system ? I am new to the "mr2 world", I just got mine
about a month ago. I would like to do some mods like high performance
cluctch, get the head ported, stuff like that. Any help or ideas would
be greatly appreciated. Also does any one know where I could get a nice
ground effects package for a 87 mr2 ? I seem to see alot for the newer
models but none for the older models. 

Thank-you

Todd Campbell
Omaha,Ne

tcampbel@gismaster.mro.usace.army.mil

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:58:54 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: FW: Cams - MR2 4AGE

In a message dated 96-03-11 10:04:20 EST, you write:

>A friend of mine has purchased a set of cams for his 4AGE (I'm not sure of
>the
>grid, but I'll ask him when he comes in to work tomorrow) but is having
>problems locating oversized shims.  Have you purchased the shims yet?  If
so,
>can you let me know where and how much.  Thanks.
>
>Steve

Nope, I'm still looking for the cams I want (hint for Chris Myer) and looking
for a head to work on. Are the shims he's looking for unusual sizes? However,
I've had good luck getting everything I've needed from Price Toyota, Newark
DE. I just called them and they confirmed all the manufactured sizes are
readily available from Toyota. They advertise in the back of car mags. I've
ordered stuff from them for years. I've never had  luck with the local
dealer.      

Makes me wonder where my old 22R pickup is now? 

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  113K 
'88 Camry 3SFE  104K

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:58:53 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cams - MR2 4AGE

In a message dated 96-03-11 08:17:10 EST, you write:

>Hi,
>    272s should be OK on the street. I'm running 288s on the street 
>and don't have a problem.
>
>gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
>
Thanks...How do the 288's feel? I was figuring, since I end up sitting in NYC
traffic a lot, I'd be best off with 260's or maybe 272's.  

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 113K
'88 Camry 3SFE (totally stock and 36mpg) 105K

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:42:03
From: ITSSupra@gnn.com (Bill Snowden)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Weber sidedrafts

Hello List:

I have a pair of Weber 40DCOE carbs, with jets, manifold and 
linkage for a 20R, FOR SALE.  Best Offer.

Bill

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 10:59:44 -0800
From: BARCZAK JAMES A 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name:  Jim Barczak
Location:  Milwaukee, WI (USA)

Model:  '85 MR2 (red, 5-speed, 91k)
Engine:  4A-GE
Mods:  Stock (except for stereo)
Stereo:  Alpine CD head unit.  Clarion passive EQ. (controls subs, and 
         functions as a crossover) 2 Alpine amps (under seats).  10" MTX 
         truck sub boxes (behind seats, I am short, so seat travel doesnt 
         really matter)  Boston and MTX component sets of speakers.

Comments:  Changed timing belt, clutch etc. on my own, so may have some 
           tips for people attempting these repairs.

Email: Barczakj@warp.msoe.edu

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:03:51 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, waves@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
From: st95hv9t@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (BRIAN C. JARVIS)
Subject: parts for sale!!

Hello all,
        I was finally forced sadly to sell my 85 MR2 due to an unexpected
child on the way.  2 seats and three people just don't fit together.  Wife
made me but a 4 door (Yuk!).  But lucky for me Dodge makes a great
autocross car in the form of a NEON  Can anyone say E-Stock!!!  I f only
now I can convince her to let me race it. " "
          ^
        -----

Anyway here is a list of the parts I have left from the toyota:

        Factory Water pump Never used mounted to Atlantic backing plate
                        $50.00

        TRD 8.0mm Wire Set  (#90919-AEA51  list at $85.00) still in the box!!
                        $40.00

        Set of European Hella H-4 headlights with 55w/100w bulbs no nicks, less
                than one year old.  After using these lights you will hate

                American candles.
                        $150.00 for both

        Complete 4AG motor needs bottom end rebuild. Head was just freashned.
                has around 110,000 miles great for those looking to bore
and
                stroke there motor-- buy a spare and save on down time.
                        $300.00

        If any of these prices seem too high make me an offer I need to make
        room.

        sorry you must pay shipping.

        If anyone else is looking for the Hella headlights I know where you
can
        get a set but it will cost you almost $200 plus shipping.

Brian C. Jarvis

Mechanical Engineering student at DREXEL UNIVERSITY

"Strive for perfection in everything.
 Take the best that exists and make it better.
 If it doesn't exist, create it.
 Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."
        Sir Henry Royce  Co-founder of Rolls Royce

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:00:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: RE: parts for sale!!
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" 

Brian C. Jarvis writes:

> Set of European Hella H-4 headlights with 55w/100w bulbs no nicks,
> less than one year old.  After using these lights you will hate
> American candles.  $150.00 for both

Sorry guy, this is a ripoff.  I just got a quote from Off Road Wherehouse in 
San Diego for $44.95 each (brand new) with 55W/60W bulbs.

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 17:58:54 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 Cams

In a message dated 96-03-11 16:26:46 EST, you write:

>>I had heard that 288 was about the upper limit of what the stock ECU could
>>take before the fuel management got totally confused. Any truth to this?
>>
>>Steve B.
>>
>>bagdon@rust.net

I dunno...but hopefully someone does. I'm reluctant to run that hairy of a
cam. Hey, gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca, tell me more about how those cams
perform in everyday life. I'm curious as to how you got your car to idle, and
how it performs with 288's. Thanks.

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  113K
'88 Camry 105K

Bruce

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:00:38 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: FW: Cams - MR2 4AGE

In a message dated 96-03-11 16:14:08 EST, you write:

>
>Has anyone purchased aftermarket shims for a 4AGE?  Toyota only has shims up
>to about 3.3 mm.  My friend is looking for shims that are in the 4-5mm
range.
>

Where'd you get those cams? The largest Toyota shim I know of is 3.4 mm or
so.  

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  113K
'88 Camry 105K

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:00:42 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: SPECIAL SHIMS - Cams - MR2 4AGE

In a message dated 96-03-11 20:54:08 EST, you write:

>They were reground.
>>
>>Has anyone purchased aftermarket shims for a 4AGE?  Toyota only has shims
up
>>to about 3.3 mm.  My friend is looking for shims that are in the 4-5mm
>range.
>
>Where'd you get those cams? The largest Toyota shim I know of is 3.4 mm or
>so.  

Did you try calling Select Sales, Miami, FL? They have all sorts of 4AGE
stuff, including Toyota Atlantic valvetrains. I'm sure someone else has
reground cams with undersized lobes running in a car somewhere. MAybe they
can help. Sorry. 

Bruce   RBC199 @aol.com
'89 MR2

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 14:39:24 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Haltech E5 or similar

>Hi all,
>	Well, now that we've got to talking about computer upgrades, Does
>anyone have any experience, direct or indirect with full replacement
>aftermarket computers like the Haltech E5 or a similar computer?  And how
>much does a computer like this cost?  
>	Chris Myer, what is your general opinion of full replacement
>computers like these? :^)
>
>					Aly
>					'85/'86 MR2
>				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
>
Hiya all,
          The computer I use in my AE-86 is (Like the Haltech & Motec
systems) a local Australian-made device, though by no means is it as good as
the other two brands. The only advantage my Microtech D4 has over the others
is that the fuel scheduling can be completely re-adjusted as you drive -
without the need for a computer at all. What the Microtech has got is
screwdriver adjustable points to control how much fuel goes in when, eg, at
idle, just off idle, mid-range, top-end, the transition from off-throttle to
on, and so on. When you buy the computer you tell the dealer exactly what
has been done to your engine and he pre-programs the initial base paramaters
into it, then when the unit is on the running engine the screwdriver
adjustable pots are used to 'fine tune' the fuel scheduling. This means that
the same computer can be used for reasonably similar engines without any
great dificulty, or, in the case where you might change the cam or
manifolds, etc, you don't have to return the computer to the manufacturer to
get it reprogrammed. Very handy.
        The fuel scheduling is good, but not quite as good as a Haltec or
Motec (Did everyone know these are made in Aus??) because Microtech have (by
necessity) had to assume a general volumetric efficiency curve. This means
that occasionally at certain points the engine may get a little too much
fuel or a not quite enough.
        One function of the Microtec that's rather handy is that you can
quite quickly go from what I call 'economy mode' to 'grunt mode' - all you
have to do is grab a screwdriver and raise the rev limiter up from, say,
7000 odd to 8500, and reset the '+ - 10% fuel trim' pot from '-5%' (where I
have it normally) to '+10%' to get an overall +15% more fuel. I have found
that with my 4AGE doing these to things I can get about another 15 hp from
the engine at high revs. Ok, that's using the 'seat of the pants dyno
system', but there is no doubt that there is a noticable increase in power.
(I also don't get 38 mpg any more ;)
        The Microtech is by far the cheapest computer (Aus $700, about
US$550) because they quite fairly assume that if you are replacing the
original factory box with a Microtech then all the original sensors will
still be on the engine, so that's what it uses. You have to wire up the
Microtech loom to the old sensors which live in their original positions.
The other two manufacturers include their own sensors that you have to fit
onto the engine.
        Ok, the down side. It doesn't control spark timing. This means that
on my 4AGE I have to run a fixed spark (about 26 DBTC) which isn't _really _
a problem, but a couple of things suffer slightly - the top & bottom end
power could be better with a moving spark. I don't have enough advance at
high revs and too much down low. (Idles like a ported rotary :) The fuel
economy also suffers slighly from not having enough advance at cruising
speeds. Microtech are soon (been waiting nearly 2 years :( ) a spark control
module that plugs into the side on the main computer box.
        The Microtech has two ways of measuring airflow into the engine -
the normal MAP sensor method, or as in my case by simply measuring throttle
position. Air Flow Meters are not supported, but that is not important in my
case (at least) because Aus 4AGE's use the MAP system instead of the crap
AFM system. (Why on earth would you use an AFM on a performance car
anyway??) I had to use the throttle postition system because I don't have
enough vacuum down low with the 288 deg cams to make the MAP sensor work
properly. (or the brake vacuum booster, sometimes :( )
        So there you have it, the ups & downs of Aftermarket injection. Hope
it has been of some interest.

The B Man.

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 14:47:59 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Camber checks.

>From:	byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd)
>To:	RBC199@aol.com
>Date: 96-03-07 21:18:37 EST

>     I've done my own front end alignment for years and with primative
>tools.  Some thought, time and desire to do it right are worth more than a
>$50,000 Bear alignment machine.  For setting camber, level the front wheels;
>you may have to drive one wheel onto plywood or something.  Use a regular
>carpenter's level against the tire.  Do not center it on the tire because of
>the bulge at the ground contact.  By measuring the distance that the level
>has to be moved out from the tire to read level, and knowing the length of
>the level, you can easly calculate the camber angle(arctan). If you jack up
>the car in the process of adjusting things, always roll it back and forth
>several feet to level out the suspension before remeasuring.
>     There's a real neat trick for setting toe-in with a carpenter's square,
>masking tape and a tape measure.  I'll give you that one at another time.
>Dick Byrd
>byrd@mnsinc.com

Hiya all, 
          There's an even easier way to do it. In aviation we have a fairly
accurate (up to a point) way of measuring small angles and calculating
heading changes quickly & easily. It's called the 'One in sixty rule', and
without going into the gorey detail as to how it works, it is used like this - 
If you are travelling 60 miles and you find that you are 1 mile to the right
of where you want to be, then how far (in degrees) have you gone off track?
The answer is 1 degree. If you'd only gone 30 miles, then it'd be 2 degrees,
15 miles 4 degrees, and so on. What is the use of this?
        If we measure a distance of 15" vertically up the side of the wheel
and use a string with a bit of weight on the end (bottom end!:) to measure
the difference in distance between the two points, then we can very quickly
get an accurate camber figure. Eg, if the upper point 15" above the lower is
1/4" 'in' (negative camber), then you have 1 degree negative camber. (If you
measured points 60" apart, the difference would have been 1"), 1/2" would be
2 degrees, 1/8" is 1/2 degree, etc.
        Very bloody easy.

The B Man.

P.S. Don't forget to stay clear of the bulge in the lower part of the tyre.  :)

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From: Golf1par@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 23:18:54 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MK1 Stock Alloys

Can someone run out to there garage, grab a stock 1986 MR2 alloy (with tire)
and tell me what it weighs?

:)

I've recently purchased some "light" wheels and I'm wondering how much (if
any) unsprung weight I've saved.

Dave Aucott
1986 MR2
daucott@e-mail.com, golf1par@aol.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 00:29:16 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2 Cams

In a message dated 96-03-11 23:20:41 EST, you write:

>The performance is great! 1st & 2nd finish in a hurry and 3rd lasts 
>a bit longer. 4th & 5th surprise a lot of guys on the highway. With 
>the stock motor between 90-110 mph those pesky Hondas would 
>be in

Thanks...I'm  thinking I may give the 288's a whirl, mostly because you guys
have had good success with 'em...and it fit with my next step: to run 4
throttle bodies and an aftermarket ECU (haven't decided which one I want
yet), and eliminate the TVIS setup altogether. Much like B Man has done.
There's some internal engine work I need to do before that point. That's at
least season and a new job away.

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  113K

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 00:29:32 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Haltech E5 or similar

In a message dated 96-03-11 23:24:43 EST, you write:

>  The Microtech has two ways of measuring airflow into the engine -
>the normal MAP sensor method, or as in my case by simply measuring throttle
>position. Air Flow Meters are not supported, but that is not important in my
>case (at least) because Aus 4AGE's use the MAP system instead of the crap
>AFM system. (Why on earth would you use an AFM on a performance car
>anyway??) I had to use the throttle postition system because I don't have
>enough vacuum down low with the 288 deg cams to make the MAP sensor work
>properly. (or the brake vacuum booster, sometimes :( )
>        So there you have it, the ups & downs of Aftermarket injection. Hope
>it has been of some interest.
>
>The B Man.
>
Thanks B Man...you used the original intake manifold and eliminated the TVIS
system? Hmmm...now the small wooden wheels in my head slowly begin to turn...

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2   113K

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:46:25 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Valve shims & where they live.

Hiya all,
         There's been some mail regarding valve shims for 4AGE's. I've just
done the clearances on mine, and after shuffling a few around and borrowing
a couple, I found I had to buy four new ones. The local Toyota man wanted me
to wait a couple of days and charge me lots (Aus$13.50 each) for the
privelidge. I went elsewhere. 
        My travels took to a Honda motorbike dealer, who had some shims of
the thickness I needed, but for less $$. Ok, only _slightly_ less,
(Aus$12.50 each), but it's one to remember.
        As for the thickness, he had them up to at least 3.3 mm's, so that
should keep you out of trouble. 

        To the guy who needed the 3 - 4 mm shims - what on earth has been
done to your cams? Have they been reshaped with a file?? There is only ONE
(That's 1, 1.0, uno, eins, etc) way to get bigger cams from smaller cams -
they MUST be built up with the stellite process. If you get the old ones
ground down to give more timing, etc, you will effectively lose lift. The
4AGE doesn't need much lift, (my cams are only 0.295") but it's a real
butchers job doing it the cheap way. Do yourself a favour and get it done
properly, or get some decent billet cams from a reputable source.

The B Man.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 01:12:27 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Stock Alloys

In a message dated 96-03-12 00:35:59 EST, you write:

>Can someone run out to there garage, grab a stock 1986 MR2 alloy (with tire)
>and tell me what it weighs?
>
>I've recently purchased some "light" wheels and I'm wondering how much (if
>any) unsprung weight I've saved.
>
According to my uncalibrated scale, 30 lbs for an '89 rim/tire combo (dread
Bridgestone "Roadhandler" 185/60 14). The '89 rims are different from the
earlier ones. What did ya get?

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  113K

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 18:24:06 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson 
To: Bill Sherwood 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Valve shims & where they live.

On the subject of shims, there is a motorsport shop in Canberra (Car 
Torque) that sells shims for 18RG's and 2TG's for $5 Aust. a pop. Having 
never seen a 4AG shim not sure if this is of any use to you guys, if the 
shims are different they might still have them in stock. The number is 
(06) 2808067

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 07:41:46 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 4AGE Cams

Bruce writes:                                                                   
                                                                                
> >>I had heard that 288 was about the upper limit of what the stock ECU could  
>>take before the fuel management got totally confused. Any truth to this?      
>>                                                                              
>>Steve B.                                                                      
>>                                                                              
>>bagdon@rust.net                                                               
                                                                                
I dunno...but hopefully someone does. I'm reluctant to run that hairy of a      
cam. Hey, gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca, tell me more about how those cams       
perform in everyday life. I'm curious as to how you got your car to idle, and   
how it performs with 288's. Thanks.                                             
                                                                                
_____________________                                                           
                                                                                
Gchan: if you reply, please post this info!  I'm in the same boat as Steve B    
and Bruce, and I think many others are!  Thanks!                                
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2 in need of power                                                       
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:19:00 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Stock Alloys

Bruce writes:                                                                   

>According to my uncalibrated scale, 30 lbs for an '89 rim/tire combo (dread    
>Bridgestone "Roadhandler" 185/60 14). The '89 rims are different from the      
>earlier ones. What did ya get?                                                 
-----------------                                                               

I picked up a set of custom rims.  They're 3-piece with the centers milled      
out of a solid piece of aluminum... quite nice!!  The rim pieces are by         
Compomotive ($$$).  These are one of a kind.                                    

Anyway, on my digital home scale each wheel/tire combo weighs in at 27 lbs.     
The tires are Yoko A008R with about 2/32 of tread left.  That saves me 3 lbs    
per wheel based on a 1989 wheel... anyone out there with a 1985/6/7 wheel       
that's loose?  I could wait for my car to come out of storage to weigh mine     
but I'm impatient...                                                            

Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:00:40 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2 Cams

In a message dated 96-03-12 06:26:23 EST, you write:

>we've been through the throttle body issue, but again, what do you intend
>to you as throttle bodies? OEM Toyota stuff, or custom made throttle
>bodies? They'd have to be real small for an automotive application, or real
>large for a motorcycle application

I'm planning to use TWM throttle bodies. They basically fit anything that can
take a Weber style manifold. I've seen them on Honda 1.6 motors, and they
work well. The drawback is that they're MUCH money. Isn't that always the
case? Someone else, a few days back, posted a note that the Toyota Atlantic
guys runs a similar setup. I'm figuring they're running a much larger bore TB
than I will since they get around 240+ HP from those engines at far more RPM
than I'll ever get to.

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:30:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Vadim KUTSYY 
To: Bill Sherwood 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Camber checks.

Does anyone know how to adjast Camber on M2 (1982)?
Thnaks.

Vadim Kutsyy
kutsyy@galton.uchicago.edu
http://galton.uchicago.edu/~kutsyy

On Tue, 12 Mar 1996, Bill Sherwood wrote:

> >From:	byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd)
> >To:	RBC199@aol.com
> >Date: 96-03-07 21:18:37 EST
> 
> >     I've done my own front end alignment for years and with primative
> >tools.  Some thought, time and desire to do it right are worth more than a
> >$50,000 Bear alignment machine.  For setting camber, level the front wheels;
> >you may have to drive one wheel onto plywood or something.  Use a regular
> >carpenter's level against the tire.  Do not center it on the tire because of
> >the bulge at the ground contact.  By measuring the distance that the level
> >has to be moved out from the tire to read level, and knowing the length of
> >the level, you can easly calculate the camber angle(arctan). If you jack up
> >the car in the process of adjusting things, always roll it back and forth
> >several feet to level out the suspension before remeasuring.
> >     There's a real neat trick for setting toe-in with a carpenter's square,
> >masking tape and a tape measure.  I'll give you that one at another time.
> >Dick Byrd
> >byrd@mnsinc.com
> 
> Hiya all, 
>           There's an even easier way to do it. In aviation we have a fairly
> accurate (up to a point) way of measuring small angles and calculating
> heading changes quickly & easily. It's called the 'One in sixty rule', and
> without going into the gorey detail as to how it works, it is used like this - 
> If you are travelling 60 miles and you find that you are 1 mile to the right
> of where you want to be, then how far (in degrees) have you gone off track?
> The answer is 1 degree. If you'd only gone 30 miles, then it'd be 2 degrees,
> 15 miles 4 degrees, and so on. What is the use of this?
>         If we measure a distance of 15" vertically up the side of the wheel
> and use a string with a bit of weight on the end (bottom end!:) to measure
> the difference in distance between the two points, then we can very quickly
> get an accurate camber figure. Eg, if the upper point 15" above the lower is
> 1/4" 'in' (negative camber), then you have 1 degree negative camber. (If you
> measured points 60" apart, the difference would have been 1"), 1/2" would be
> 2 degrees, 1/8" is 1/2 degree, etc.
>         Very bloody easy.
> 
> The B Man.
> 
> P.S. Don't forget to stay clear of the bulge in the lower part of the tyre. :)

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:06:48 +0000
Subject: Re: 4AG cams

Hi all,
         It would seem that a lot of guys are interested in putting 
288 cams in their motors from the feedback I have recently had 
and would like to know how it works. I would have to say that it 
works pretty well on the street but the motor is happiest on the 
highway. In stock form the motor is no slouch but I have found that 
other small engines in its class can keep up with it from about 
80-110 mph. After this it can pull away as few small engine cars can 
do 140 mph, also few big engine cars. 
    With the 288 cams my motor makes a bit more than stock power 
up to 4500 rpm when the cams come in with a burst of power and it has 
surprised many on the highway up to Ford Probes and Eagle Talons. I
haven't been racing anyone in a while as I need to change the front 
stuts which all of a sudden went south.
    For those of you interested in how I got it to idle, this is how 
I got it to idle. First of all I knew someone who had already done it
so it was just a matter of sticking to my guns. Also I had no choice
because it would not idle reagrdless of how much I tuned the idle 
screw. What happened here is that the motor was starving for gas
and this is remedied by tweaking the airflow meter about 3 turns
counterclockwise I believe. The next thing to happen is that the 
motor would not make any power below 4500 rpm and this is caused 
by the EGR valve weakening the mixture by returning some of the 
exhaust gas to the combustion chamber. The fix for this is to disable 
the EGR valve and I believe this mod is good for unmodifed motors
which have a slow pickup. I have also tried the pot in the temp 
sensor line but did not notice any appreciable change in performance.
   I would have to say that these mods should only be done on a motor 
without a catalytic converter as excess unburnt gases may cause it to 
burn up.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:55:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: FW: parts for sale!!
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" 

>>Sorry guy, this is a ripoff.  I just got a quote from Off Road Wherehouse 
in
>>San Diego for $44.95 each (brand new) with 55W/60W bulbs.

>Gently, sir, gently!

Sorry for the flame job.

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 06:01:28 +1100
From: n.briggs@student.canterbury.ac.nz (Neil Briggs)
Subject: Weights
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Does anyone have any figures regarding the weights of say a 1988 Corolla
GTS and an 88 FX-16. I can't find this anywhere but surely someone out
there must have the info.
Thanks
Neil

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From: reyb@wildcat.sandiegoca.attgis.com
Subject: stroke & efi - comments wanted
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:22:48 -0800 (PST)

G'day folks,
   I've been impressed lately with all the talk about
Lexus injector this, RX-7 injector that, chip this,
chip that, potentiometer this, pot. that...well, I'm
hoping I could get  a few comments about stroking a
22RE.  I've noticed that there are no performance 
catalogs that offer a stroker kit for this fuel injected 
engine and I've heard that there was once(no longer in
business) a company that did but only for the carburetor 
version.  So, my questions are:

o  Will the ECU be thrown off by the longer stroke?

o  Would I need different injectors?

o  What else might be effected?

I would appreciate any an all comments; opinion or fact.

Thanks,

-Rey- 
========================================================
Rey Berin                   Phone: (619) 485-3285
NCR Corporation             Fax:   (619) 485-3010
17095 Via Del Campo                    
San Diego, CA 92127         Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM
========================================================

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From: Jay_Kopycinski-RYNA10@email.sps.mot.com
Date: 12 Mar 96 14:16:54 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: FS- Celica Supra Rear Calip

FS: Celica Supra Rear Calipers (cheap)
I have a set of rear Supra calipers for sale for any reasonable offer plus 
shipping from Phoenix.

Jay

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Weights
To: n.briggs@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Neil Briggs)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 15:59:44 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Does anyone have any figures regarding the weights of say a 1988 Corolla
> GTS and an 88 FX-16. I can't find this anywhere but surely someone out
> there must have the info.
> Thanks
> Neil
> 

Hey Neil,

	From the September '87 issue of Automobile magazine in the article
on the VW GTI vs. Toyota Corolla FX16 GTS, curb weight for the FX16 is
listed as 2360 lbs.

						Aly
						'85 MR2
					abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: MR2, next best thing.
To: st95hv9t@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (BRIAN C. JARVIS)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:17:13 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Hello all,
>         I was finally forced sadly to sell my 85 MR2 due to an unexpected
> child on the way.  2 seats and three people just don't fit together.  Wife
> made me but a 4 door (Yuk!).  But lucky for me Dodge makes a great
> autocross car in the form of a NEON  Can anyone say E-Stock!!!  I f only
> now I can convince her to let me race it. " "
> 

Can I suggest staying with Toyota, Honda, or Mitsubishi?  If I had to sell
my MR2 for a more "passenger oriented" performance car that would still be
great for autocrossing, I'd go with a '90-'93 Acura Integra GS 4 Door (make
mine light blue metallic please :-)  ).  I think it's such a good looking
car (the 4 door)  and  I  checked the  Options Auto Salon catalog and
found that everything that's available for the MR2, performance wise, is
available for this car as well.  You can even get Tokico Illuminas which
aren't even available for '86-'89 Celicas or '86-'95 Legends (two other cool
cars as well, IMHO).  Put this car with the '85 MR2 and a '90 CRX Si and
you've got one incredible fleet of three.

					I apologize for rambling on,

					Aly
					'85/'86 MR2, red with all options
					('85 repainted as an '86)
					(Why? Best of both worlds!)
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:34:50 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2 Cams

In a message dated 96-03-12 13:39:41 EST, Steve writes:

>>than I will since they get around 240+ HP from those engines at far more
RPM
>>than I'll ever get to.
>
>Do they come OEM on anything, that you can rip the parts off the engine?
>
>Steve B.

Nope..as far as I know, its all top shelf, top dollar stuff that belongs in
my car but isn't in it cause I don't have the cash yet merchandise. It's
really expensive stuff at this time, and will be for the immediate future. If
I'm not mistaken, Toyota Atlantics were once running Webers and are now
running this setup. I believe the Jan/Feb issue of GRM has a small blurb
about this setup that was installed on a 1600 Ford motor in a autoXing
Fiesta. 

Bruce
'89 MR2

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: stroke & efi - comments wanted
To: reyb@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Rey Berin)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 02:13:11 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> G'day folks,
>    I've been impressed lately with all the talk about
> Lexus injector this, RX-7 injector that, chip this,
> chip that, potentiometer this, pot. that...well, I'm
> hoping I could get  a few comments about stroking a
> 22RE.  I've noticed that there are no performance 
> catalogs that offer a stroker kit for this fuel injected 
> engine and I've heard that there was once(no longer in
> business) a company that did but only for the carburetor 
> version.  So, my questions are:
> 
> o  Will the ECU be thrown off by the longer stroke?

No. It will adjust to the larger airflow.
 
> o  Would I need different injectors?

No, unless your modificatios are way extensive.
 
-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 20:45:28 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

ROBERT A. WESNER
MEDFORD, OREGON  USA
'85 MR2
ENGINE: 4AGELC
MODS:  COMPLETE REBUILD INCLUDING OVER-BORED CYL.

get toyota-mods suppliers.txt
get toyota-mods users.txt
help

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 21:08:17 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2, next best thing.

In a message dated 96-03-12 16:39:22 EST, you write:

>I'd go with a '90-'93 Acura Integra GS 4 Door (make
>mine light blue metallic please :-)  ).  I think it's such a good looking
>car (the 4 door)  and  I  checked the  Options Auto Salon catalog and
>found that everything that's available for the MR2, performance

Not to make light of your situation, my sister's got an couple year old
Integra with the VTEC motor. I finally drove it over X-mas. It's a pretty
awsome car - then I found out she paid about $20K for the thing. I could
almost buy that dream EFI system I want for the MR2 for that :)

Good luck.

Bruce  RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: MR2, next best thing.
To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 21:41:22 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> >                                        Aly
> >                                        '85/'86 MR2, red with all options
> >                                        ('85 repainted as an '86)
> >                                        (Why? Best of both worlds!)
> >                                abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
> 
> Bot those black bumpers and black wing is so _distinctive_, though. :-)
> 
> Steve B.
> 

I agree with you Steve.  But I'm looking for a little change.  If I had
an '86 MR2 and this '85, then I'd leave the black trim alone.  But since I
only have one, I want to make it as desireable as possible.
But don't forget, I haven't done it yet.  I plan on getting the front end
body parts in May (just in case you didn't hear, I had a small run in with a
Jeep Cherokee in July '95) and having the entire repainting done by the end
of June (God willing).  So it's not set in stone yet.  I may go with a
combination between the '85 and the '86.  To get an idea of that, check out
the image of Bikram Bakshi's '86 MR2 on the who's who list for what I think
would look great (on the www archive).  He has the bumpers and spoiler red
like any '86, but instead of the red side skirts, he has the black triangle
like on my '85 in front of the rear wheels.  I will leave the door handles
black.  I have the front end mask with "MR2" and the mr2 eagle symbol
beautifully stenciled in.  Any ideas are appreciated for making the ultimate
mk1 MR2.  Also any parts anyone wants to sell (in good condition) are
welcome. (like the rear wind deflector, red rubber strips under headlights,
red rubber/plastic chin spoiler under front air dam, red side skirts under
doors, red mud flaps, etc.).

					Thanks :-)

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: MR2, next best thing.
To: RBC199@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 21:59:12 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> In a message dated 96-03-12 16:39:22 EST, you write:
> 
> >I'd go with a '90-'93 Acura Integra GS 4 Door (make
> >mine light blue metallic please :-)  ).  I think it's such a good looking
> >car (the 4 door)  and  I  checked the  Options Auto Salon catalog and
> >found that everything that's available for the MR2, performance
> 
> Not to make light of your situation, my sister's got an couple year old
> Integra with the VTEC motor. I finally drove it over X-mas. It's a pretty
> awsome car - then I found out she paid about $20K for the thing. I could
> almost buy that dream EFI system I want for the MR2 for that :)
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Bruce  RBC199@aol.com
> '89 MR2
> 
 
True, but note that I'm referring to the non VTEC motor and the fact that
the car would be used also.  Kind of drops the price to about $10K now.  I'm
suggesting this car if you Need to have a car with four doors as opposed to
a Dodge Neon.  
			                
					Sorry for the non-Toyota talk,                                                 
	
					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 19:13:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: RE: stroke & efi - comments wanted
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" 
Cc: "'Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM'" 

Rey,
LC Engineering has a light weight stroker crankshaft that when used with 94 
mm pistons results in 2609 cc of displacement.  $895 on the 1995 price list. 
 Phone number is (520) 505-2502.  They are now in Lake Havasu City, Arizona.

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
(also in San Diego)

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 19:31:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: Re: Haltech E5 or similar
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" 

>The Microtech has two ways of measuring airflow into the engine -
>the normal MAP sensor method, or as in my case by simply measuring throttle
>position. Air Flow Meters are not supported, but that is not important in 
my
>case (at least) because Aus 4AGE's use the MAP system instead of the crap
>AFM system. (Why on earth would you use an AFM on a performance car
>anyway??)

Using a manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor instead of a air flow meter (AFM) 
is probably cheaper *and* will result in reduced restriction (more hp).  The 
Mk1 MR2's in the US all have the AFM, and the Turbo MkII's also have the 
AFM, while the NA MkII's have the MAP (I think this is correct).  Why didn't 
Toyota use the MAP on all vehicles for all countries?  Might have to do with 
the US stricter emissions requirements, although Honda has been using the 
MAP for their EFI since the beginning (I believe).

Switching over to the non-US MAP system for the Mk1 sounds like an easy way 
to pick up a few hp.  Aren't the UK / Aus Mk1's rated slightly higher than 
the US Mk1's?  Are there any other differences in the engines to account for 
the different rating (like increased compression ratio)?  Yeah, yeah, I 
should check Matti's web page...

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 23:54:38 -0500
From: "Dick Byrd"  
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust

     I had a strange exhaust system experience last month.  I'm one of those who
*always* fixes his own car.  I went to my local Toy dealer for a muffler for my 
Camry and the parts guy said he had one and it was $209.  Then he said: "Oh, 
wait a minute - there's a special in the service dept.  You can get the lifetime
guarantee stainless steel muffler *installed* for $199.  I reeled back:  "Hold 
on - You mean if I do it myself it is $209 and no guarantee, but if you do it is
only $199 and I get a lifetime guarantee."  "Yep, thats about it!", he said.
     Well, it was a real tough choice, but for the first time in twenty years, I
actually put my car in somebody else's shop.  Sometimes it's real tough on us 
old do-it-yourself guys!

Stuff from byrd@mnsinc.com

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: stroke & efi - comments wanted
To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Zublin, Bryan)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 02:30:08 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Rey,
> LC Engineering has a light weight stroker crankshaft that when used with 94 
> mm pistons results in 2609 cc of displacement.  $895 on the 1995 price list. 
>  Phone number is (520) 505-2502.  They are now in Lake Havasu City, Arizona.
> 
> Bryan Zublin
> bzublin@gi.com
> (also in San Diego)
> 

Dear Bryan,

	Which motor is this for?  I'm sure you're not talking of a 4AGE, 
I know 94mm pistons wouldn't fit.  Do they list any stroker crankshafts for
the 4AGE?  If they or anyone else does, a price like that could make me
think of stroking my 4AGE a few years from now.  $1700 for an HKS crankshaft 
and $4500 for an HKS stroker kit installed on a 4AGE is just a bit ridiculous 
in my opinion.  Did I forget to mention that TRD wanted $3000 for a stroker
crankshaft?  Whoa, Nellie!

					:-)

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 08:49:27 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: Haltech E5 or similar

>Using a manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor instead of a air flow meter (AFM) 
>is probably cheaper *and* will result in reduced restriction (more hp). 

As a note, another really nifty thing that having a MAP rather than
a AFM is that it will allow anyone to just bolt a high-flow K&N filter
right in the place of the stock air box.  With the AFM, you can do
this, but you have to deal with getting air through the AFM--big
hassle compared to just tossing the whole box out and bolting on a
big K&N cone.

Chris

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:08:15 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 4AG Clutch (again)

                                                                                
Hi,                                                                             
                                                                                
I asked a question about 4AG clutches a couple weeks back, and thanks to the    
people who responded.  I'm considering the 3-piece sprung metal disk with       
either the stock or an upgraded pressure plate (suggestions?).                  
                                                                                
Just today though someone mentioned the 4AGZE clutch assy... does this plate    
have any more clamping load than the stock '86 plate, and will it fit on the    
'86 flywheel?                                                                   
                                                                                
I guess I'm not done thinking about this yet... I need to decide soon though,   
the car's coming out of storage in a couple weeks and the first A-X race is     
May 4th!!!                                                                      
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:09:29 -0500 (est)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Santiago Oleas 
Subject: Close Ratio Transmission

Hello,

I am writing on behalf of a friend of mine.  He has the intention to build
an SCCA Improved-Stock Class car and he's trying to source out a close
ration gearbox.

What he asked me to ask this list is who supplies close ration transmissions
for a FWD Tercel.  I apologize if I do not have any more information, but I
would appreciate any information.

The main thing is to have a list of potential gearbox suppliers.

--
Thanks,

Santiago Oleas
Montreal, Canada

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 08:16:46 -0600
From: tcampbel@mroim_36988.mro.usace.army.mil (Todd Campbell 3258)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name : Todd Campbell
Location : Omaha,NE USA
Model : 1987 mr2
engine : (stock ) Not sure, thats why I am talking to you guys !
mods : None ......yet !!

Here is the reason I want to be a part of this group. I have a motorcycle that
I do a lot of custom work ( ie ported head, racing pipe, steel braided brake
lines etc. ) 

I finally got the opportunity to purchase my dream car ( mr2 ) and I am
interested in being able to to some of the same mods that I have done to
my motorcycle, to my car, but I am definately new to car mods.

I want to start with the exhaust system ( my muffler needs to be replaced so 
I might as well do it now !) then I want to work on the fuel system.
(better flow, more gas MORE POWER !! )

thank-you,

Todd Campbell

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:16:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Roy Mongiovi 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Maybe I begin to understand

I've been looking to improve the performance of my '92 Celica for more
than a year now, and have been really dismayed at the lack of
performance aftermarket parts for the car.

Well, yesterday I was leafing through the Toyota Performance Handbook
(I've never bought a copy since it's sort of out of date and only
mentions in passing the Celica models introduced in '90; it really
targets earlier Toyotas) and I suspect I understand.

I came across a mention that if I have a front wheel drive Toyota, I
might have problems boosting its power.  The Handbook used the "new"
FWD Celica that Toyota had come out with (I believe it's referring to
the '91).  It says that the engine in the car develops 135 horsepower
(that's the 5SFE like in mine) and that that's about the limit of what
Toyota's front wheel drive train can handle.  It said that to handle
more torque they had to go to all wheel drive in the turbocharged
version.  The Performance Handbook said that you could probably get the
FWD version to handle 160 HP, but that would be pushing it.

Sigh....
							Roy

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 08:58:11 -0600
From: tcampbel@mroim_36988.mro.usace.army.mil (Todd Campbell 3258)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: begining mods

I have a 1987 mr2 and I am wanting to to some mods. I just purchased it
about a month ago so I am kinda new to all of this.

I think I want to start first with some of the simple mods 
first of all I need to determine what kind of engine I have !!!

I did receive anything from the girl I purchased it from so any help
is appreciated !!

Can I make this thing as fast as my Kawasaki ZX6 ( I can try !! )

Todd C.

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Maybe I begin to understand
To: roy@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Roy Mongiovi)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 11:14:03 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> I've been looking to improve the performance of my '92 Celica for more
> than a year now, and have been really dismayed at the lack of
> performance aftermarket parts for the car.
> 
> Well, yesterday I was leafing through the Toyota Performance Handbook
> (I've never bought a copy since it's sort of out of date and only
> mentions in passing the Celica models introduced in '90; it really
> targets earlier Toyotas) and I suspect I understand.
> 
> I came across a mention that if I have a front wheel drive Toyota, I
> might have problems boosting its power.  The Handbook used the "new"
> FWD Celica that Toyota had come out with (I believe it's referring to
> the '91).  It says that the engine in the car develops 135 horsepower
> (that's the 5SFE like in mine) and that that's about the limit of what
> Toyota's front wheel drive train can handle.  It said that to handle
> more torque they had to go to all wheel drive in the turbocharged
> version.  The Performance Handbook said that you could probably get the
> FWD version to handle 160 HP, but that would be pushing it.
> 
> Sigh....
> 							Roy
> 

Hey Roy,
	
	Don't feel so bad.  Put a smile on your face. :-)  

	I also have the Toyota Performance Handbook and I remember reading
what you mentioned.  I believe that if you speak with some people in your
situation, they can help you overcome any problems that might occur with
high power and front wheel drive.  I don't see why it wouldn't be able to
handle some high power if it's done right.  After all, a new Eclipse GS-T is
front wheel drive with 210 hp!  There will be wheelspin, just look at how a
CRX Si with 108 hp spins its wheels at an autocross (still love that car
though).  There will also be torque steer.  But any of these problems can be
overcome or managed.  I take what I can from the Toyota Performance
Handbook, there's some good stuff in it.  But I've also found some
inconsistinces in it that should be taken lightly.  Check out the page with
the Corolla GT-S I believe where the book states in the caption under the
picture of the wrapped header, "Foil would quickly melt around header pipes. 
Note the extensive use of foil around the headers".  Just remember that, yes
there will be some obstacles in your modifications, but not everything in
the book is absolute.  Going to all wheel drive in the turbocharged version
was an added incentive to the extra power.  But I don't believe it's
mandatory.  Check with some performance shops and others on this list and
I'm sure you'll get some answers and ideas.

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: MR2, next best thing.
To: seldon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (seldon)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 11:26:37 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> aly abulkheir wrote some stuff about painting an 85 MR2 w/ red bumpers and 
> wing, but w/ black "ground effects" for lack of a better word.
> 

No, not black ground effects.  I meant, that if I stick with the black
rubber triangular piece in front of the rear wheels, that would stay black
as it is right now.  If I bought the ground effects (I personally prefer the
term "side skirts" :-) )  they would be red.  These are the side skirts that
came with the "aerodynamic spoiler package".  They eliminated the small
black triangle and added a color keyed piece the length of the wheelbase
under the doors.  The majority of '86-'89 models I've seen have this piece. 
They were apparently available in black on the '85 Japanese home version as
seen in a late '84 issue of road and track.  I like them color keyed
personally.

> In responce:
> 
> I have an 86 that "to my knowledge" came from the factory with the black 
> "ground effects" black door handles, and black trim on the windows and 
> trailing edge of the sail panel. With the bumpers and wing silver like the 
> rest of the car.
> IMHO, this was the best color combo ever put on a MkI :)
> 
> Seldon
> 

I agree.  This is what I will probably end up doing.  I have no intention of
painting the door handles, window trim, trailing edge of the sail panel,
rear fascia, etc. red.  I will leave them all black.  What I'm cosidering is
painting the bumpers and rear spoiler red, just like on an '86.  The '85
model had these pieces painted black.  Kind of like an early Porsche 911
turbo.

					:-)

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 12:22:54 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Colors (Ok, it's not a mod)

                                                                                
Seldon writes:                                                                  
>I have an 86 that "to my knowledge" came from the factory with the black       
>"ground effects" black door handles, and black trim on the windows and         
>trailing edge of the sail panel. With the bumpers and wing silver like the     
>rest of the car.                                                               
>IMHO, this was the best color combo ever put on a MkI :)                       
                                                                                
I have to agree.  I generally don't like silver cars, but the silver on my      
'86 has held up beautifully to the elements and looks really good!  I have      
the side skirts on mine though, which I really like.  From my digging around    
for parts cars and general interest, I've noticed that most '86 MR2s are        
pretty loaded and have all the skirts, wings, dams, pwr goodies, etc.  They     
started stripping them in '87 and '88 (cost?) and had the black treatments in   
'85.  I'm sure someone out there has all the gory details of options...         
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:26:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Subject: Re: stroke & efi - comments wanted
To: aly abulkheir 
Cc: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" 

The 2.6L stroker that LC Engineering sells is for the 22R series of engines. 
 They only sell parts for the 20R and 22R series engines.  I think they are 
beginning to offer parts for the 3L V6 engines.

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 12:26:41 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 4AG Clutch (again...)

                                                                                
I should check my sources before I ask... the following diameters are listed    
as parts available for the MK1 MR2...                                           
                                                                                
1985 =         200mm                                                            
1986-1990 =    212mm                                                            
Supercharged = 224mm                                                            
                                                                                
Was there ever a '90 MK1?  Not in this country (USA) that I'm aware of...       
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2, Silver, Needs Clutch  :)                                              
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 12:57:34 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 Ground Effects

                                                                                
After reading all the postings about bodywork on MR2's, I thought I'd           
add some info.  I converted my stripper 1988 (no side skirts, just              
triangles) to full skirts.  Yes, I know this is heresy for weight               
reduction, but I hated the appearance of the car without them.                  
If you guys feel this is appropriate for the Mods board, I will post            
what I know.  It's fairly striaght-forward, but there are a couple              
things you'd need to know about swapping.  If we don't think this               
should be on Mods, e-mail me direct and I'll generate some sort of              
document.  Bye all!                                                             
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2                                                                        
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:14:44 -0800
From: seldon 
To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2, next best thing.

aly abulkheir wrote some stuff about painting an 85 MR2 w/ red bumpers and 
wing, but w/ black "ground effects" for lack of a better word.

In responce:

I have an 86 that "to my knowledge" came from the factory with the black 
"ground effects" black door handles, and black trim on the windows and 
trailing edge of the sail panel. With the bumpers and wing silver like the 
rest of the car.
IMHO, this was the best color combo ever put on a MkI :)

Seldon

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 13:31:01 -0500
From: Mark Sink 
To: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2 Ground Effects

I think it should be posted to the mr2 mailing list.

Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> 
> After reading all the postings about bodywork on MR2's, I thought I'd
> add some info.  I converted my stripper 1988 (no side skirts, just
> triangles) to full skirts.  Yes, I know this is heresy for weight
> reduction, but I hated the appearance of the car without them.
> If you guys feel this is appropriate for the Mods board, I will post
> what I know.  It's fairly striaght-forward, but there are a couple
> things you'd need to know about swapping.  If we don't think this
> should be on Mods, e-mail me direct and I'll generate some sort of
> document.  Bye all!
> 
> Christopher T. Berchin
> 1988 MR2
> Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 13:47:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: Anyone have copies of the last three weeks' messages?
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,

    My ISP's mail server crashed last weekend and erased the ~2200 
messages I had in my inbox (don't ask), including all the very helpful 
info people had sent me about 7MGTE fuel injector upgrades.  I have 
copies of all the messages I sent, but I no longer have copies of what I 
had received, and I would really like to get them again.  If anyone has 
copies of those messages, or even just copies of all messages sent to the 
list(s) for the last three weeks or so, I'd appreciate getting copies.  
Thanks!

Aaron B.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:06:43 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MK 1 MR2 '85-89

Is anyone aware of any differences in the 4AGE motor between the years, other
than some minor intake modifications and the color of the letters/numbers on
the cam cover castings? I'm curious. Is any one better than another?

Bruce   '89 MR2 
RBC199@aol.com

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: RBC199@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:41:20 EDT
Subject: Re: MK 1 MR2 '85-89
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Bruce,
         I believe the supercharged motor for the MR2 and the 88 on
GTS Corolla had larger main and con-rod bearings. The piston pin 
is also larger. Someone had told me that there were 2 types of heads
also, however, I never did find out about that.

Hope this helps.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:44:54 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 6-speed tranny??

Has anyone ever heard of a SIX-SPEED transaxle for the Mk1 or MkII??

Tanx.

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: MR2 Ground Effects
To: msink@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Mark Sink)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:34:18 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> I think it should be posted to the mr2 mailing list.
> 
> Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> > 
> > After reading all the postings about bodywork on MR2's, I thought I'd
> > add some info.  I converted my stripper 1988 (no side skirts, just
> > triangles) to full skirts.  Yes, I know this is heresy for weight
> > reduction, but I hated the appearance of the car without them.
> > If you guys feel this is appropriate for the Mods board, I will post
> > what I know.  It's fairly striaght-forward, but there are a couple
> > things you'd need to know about swapping.  If we don't think this
> > should be on Mods, e-mail me direct and I'll generate some sort of
> > document.  Bye all!
> > 
> > Christopher T. Berchin
> > 1988 MR2
> > Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
> >
> 

I wouldn't mind it being on the mods list, but I'm okay with it being posted
to the mr2 digest.  Either way is fine with me.  I'd love to hear about it.
Also, if anyone has any experience removing the bumpers, fenders, air dam,
etc., from a mk1 MR2, could you share it.  The weather is warming up, and I
want to start removing the front body panels soon to prepare for the front
end repair.

					Thanks,

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:41:31 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MK 1 MR2

                                                                                
Brer Bruce writes:                                                              
                                                                                
Is anyone aware of any differences in the 4AGE motor between the years, other   
than some minor intake modifications and the color of the letters/numbers on    
the cam cover castings? I'm curious. Is any one better than another?            
                                                                                
Bruce   '89 MR2                                                                 
RBC199@aol.com                                                                  
___________________________________________                                     
                                                                                
There is much more than meets the eye, from what I've gathered.  The            
cars do not share con rod or main bearings (not sure which one - I think        
it's con rod).  The later years had a wider bearing, I believe.  You            
can determine which is which by looking at the listings for things like         
Carillo rods, pistons, etc.  The 1985-86 have one part, the 1987-89 have        
another.  Aside from that (and the cam cover lettering!), I haven't found       
anything else other than the pre-1987 were rated at 112hp (in the USA), and     
the later cars were 115hp.                                                      
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2                                                                        
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: 6-speed tranny??
To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:53:55 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Has anyone ever heard of a SIX-SPEED transaxle for the Mk1 or MkII??
> 
> Tanx.
> 

Mmmmmmmmmmm.   That would be a tasty item. :)

					Aly

					'85 MR2
					abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 17:58:35 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK 1 MR2 '85-89

In a message dated 96-03-13 14:50:25 EST, Mark  wrote:

>In '88 HP jumed from 112 to 115 due to a better injector spray 
>pattern.  
>
Ahh, the dread injector spray...hopefully I can resolve this with a little
side excursion to RC Engineering.

Then, almost simultaneously, Chris Berchin said:

>it's con rod).  The later years had a wider bearing, I believe.  You
>can determine which is which by looking at the listings for things like
>Carillo rods, pistons, etc.  The 1985-86 have one part, the 1987-89 have
>another.  Aside from that (and the cam cover lettering!), I haven't found
>anything else other than the pre-1987 were rated at 112hp (in the USA), and
>the later cars were 115hp.

So, one would figure a later block a smidgen sturdier than an earlier
block...or am I a little to presumptuous? 

Then just as the dust settles, Adrienne sez:

>Then of course there's the 20 valve ones ... we've got them kicking around 
>here (cars imported from Japan) and we can get parts (if anyone wants any 
>.... we get what japan gets : )

20 Valve 4AGE head....or am I dreaming about this?

Finally Marc and Greg informed:

>improvements include:
>bigger rod journals/bearings - reliability
>stiffer block
>EFI program - better torque / power curve

So...an '85 head is an acceptable combo with an '89 block?

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2  (with sunroof off, enjoying 60 degree weather and no job and
dreaming of a 20 valve head on his 4AGE  :-)   )

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: rbc199@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:28:45 +0000
Subject: Re: 4AG heads
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Bruce, 
         I would tend to believe that the heads are interchangeable 
and the only problem would be the manifold. I had posted
earlier about the crankshaft and after cross-referencing the 4AGE
and 4AGZE information I have found that the main bearing journals
are the same, however, the con-rods are not the same and the top end
is definitely not the same. It seems that starting in 1988 with the 
4AGZE motor they beefed up the con-rods. This was subsequently 
carried forward into the next generation GTS Corolla. On the subject 
of crankshafts the journals for the main and con-rods are the same as 
for the 3A-C, 4A-LC and 4A-F series engines. It therefore comes to 
mind that these crankshafts might be the same. Anyone??? Bill??
     On the other hand, if these cranks are not the same but have 
different offsets then with suitable connecting rods they could be 
suitable as factory stroker cranks thereby raising cc and bhp.
   Just my thoughts.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 20:46:18 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan)
Subject: math

        Hello Group!

  Is there a mathmatical formula for the relationship between crank hp and
rear wheel hp? Or is it just a rule of thumb? If so what is the rule? Thanks!

Chris W Morgan
1979 Celica Sunchaser
1984 Celica GT Hatchback
1985 Celica GTS Convertable

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 21:58:18 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: Close Ratio Transmission

>What he asked me to ask this list is who supplies close ration transmissions
>for a FWD Tercel.  I apologize if I do not have any more information, but I
>would appreciate any information.

TRD did, at one time, supply 5 different gearset for this car, ranging
in price from $1900 to $2700.  What they supply now is _anyone's_ guess.
They are alleged to be putting out a new catalog in April, but I'll
believe it when I see it.  You can call TRD and see what they say:
714-444-1188.  Give Chris Hines my love and tell us what you find
out.  (I'd call, but Chris and I aren't on strong terms at the moment.
Something about them trying to hose us on that big TRD sale, and me
refusing payment.  Ugly, ugly.)

Chris

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:07:58 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: begining mods

>Can I make this thing as fast as my Kawasaki ZX6 ( I can try !! )

As fast?  Sure!  As quick?  Well.....

Chris

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:28:48 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: MK 1 MR2

Differences that I am aware of between the 85-87 and 88-91 4AG:

Gasket Set
Connecting Rods/Bearings
Pin Bushings

There is also a difference in the head between the 88-89 and 90-91
4AG, but I'm not certain what it is.  I think it may be a slight
difference in the camshaft, but I may well be wrong on this.

Chris

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:54:03 -0500 (est)
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer),
From: Santiago Oleas 
Subject: Re: Close Ratio Transmission

At 09:58 PM 3/13/96 -0500, Christopher P. Myer wrote:
>>What he asked me to ask this list is who supplies close ration transmissions
>>for a FWD Tercel.  I apologize if I do not have any more information, but I
>>would appreciate any information.
>
>TRD did, at one time, supply 5 different gearset for this car, ranging
>in price from $1900 to $2700.  What they supply now is _anyone's_ guess.
>They are alleged to be putting out a new catalog in April, but I'll
>believe it when I see it.  You can call TRD and see what they say:
>714-444-1188.  Give Chris Hines my love and tell us what you find
>out.  (I'd call, but Chris and I aren't on strong terms at the moment.
>Something about them trying to hose us on that big TRD sale, and me
>refusing payment.  Ugly, ugly.)
>
>Chris
>

Well, Chris, from my many months of lurking I know that you are the one who
deals with aftermarket merchandise.  Is there no one else that builds or
markets close ratio transmissions?

I don't necessarily mean only for Toyota, but for any other Japanese car.
I'm thinking Suzuki in particular mainly because my friend has a Suzuki
Swift rally car, and I have a feeling that this is the car that he will
transform into an SCCA racer.

Thanks,
--
Santiago Oleas
Montreal, Canada

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 15:43:04 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: maths

>        Hello Group!
>
>  Is there a mathmatical formula for the relationship between crank hp and
>rear wheel hp? Or is it just a rule of thumb? If so what is the rule? Thanks!
>
>Chris W Morgan
>1979 Celica Sunchaser
>1984 Celica GT Hatchback
>1985 Celica GTS Convertable
>
Yup, for an average RWD car you could use 25%-30% loss. For a FWD, I think
25% would be about right, and a 4WD up around 30%-35% I'd reckon.
FWIW, the most efficient would probably be a Top-Fuel drag car - they have
no gearbox, only a computer controlled six-stage clutch and a live axle diff
- 10%-15%?? (neglecting tyre drag)

The B Man.

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 07:45:50 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: Close Ratio Transmission

>...Is there no one else that builds or
>markets close ratio transmissions?
>
>I don't necessarily mean only for Toyota, but for any other Japanese car.
>I'm thinking Suzuki in particular mainly because my friend has a Suzuki
>Swift rally car, and I have a feeling that this is the car that he will
>transform into an SCCA racer.

Um, not to my knowledge.  In the Japanese performance world, there
seems to be a factory sponsored performance group (or groups) that
carry the only really hard-core performance parts for the individual
cars.  Actually, I should say "design or market" instead of carry.
For Toyota, you have Toyota Motorsports and TRD, Nissan has Nissan
Motorsports and Nissan Competition, etc.  I am open to correction
here, but I believe that the Motorsports group does all of the
factory's racing effort, and designs parts for their race cars,
but doesn't market these.  TRD and Nissan Comp design the parts
and market them, but they don't focus on racing themselves.

Anyone want to help me here?  Good spot for Koji to jump in...

Chris

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Date: 14 Mar 96 08:00:58 EST
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: owner 
Subject: me/mine/mods

ME:	Larry Saccone Jr.

MINE:	1991 MR2 turbo - T-tops

MODS:	Engine Mods----------------------------------------
	Greddy Airinx Filter Assembly
	Greddy Turbo Exhaust
	Greddy Boost Guage  (old one gets buried)
	Greddy TVVC
	Ported Intake & Exhaust Manifolds
	Stereo Mods----------------------------------------
	Alpine 1310 CD-Shuttle Control
	Alpine 3339 Graphic EQ
	Alpine 5952Z CD-Shuttle
	Sony 10020 Amp
	Sony 4040 Amp
	2 - Alpine 12" Subs
	2 - Alpine 6" Mids
	2 - Alpine 1" Tweeter Pods

PERFORMANCE:			Stock			Modified
	Standing 1/4 Mile		14.65 @ 94mph		13.51sec @ 107mph
	0-60			6.5sec			5.1

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 10:20:38 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 4AG heads

In a message dated 96-03-13 23:29:55 EST, Aly wrote:

>and 4AGZE information I have found that the main bearing journals
>are the same, however, the con-rods are not the same and the top end
>is definitely not the same. It seems that starting in 1988 with the 
>4AGZE motor they beefed up the con-rods.

Will a 4AGE head bolt up to a 4AGZE block? Should, right?

>    On the other hand, if these cranks are not the same but have 
>different offsets then with suitable connecting rods they could be 
>suitable as factory stroker cranks thereby raising cc and bhp.
>   
Assuming identical bore centers. Anyone ever had occassion to look into this?

Bruce     RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:50:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: MK 1 MR2 '85-89
To: Toyota Mods 

>
> Is anyone aware of any differences in the 4AGE motor between the years, 
other
> than some minor intake modifications and the color of the letters/numbers 
on
> the cam cover castings? I'm curious. Is any one better than another?
>

These are the different engines that I know about ... some may be just 
rumours!! : )

first 4AGE ... blue top ... 88kw (118hp)   <----- have one of these .. am 
rebuilding
second ....... red top ... 100kw (134hp)
4AGZE ..........................................(145 ? ) <------- what's in 
my car : )
4AGZE ... "hot" one ..................(163hp)  <------- looking for one for 
lotus 7 replica!! : )
apparently ... there's also a NA engine that is just the 4AGZE without the 
SCer ... ie, it has the forged pistons etc .... but this could just be a 
rumour. : )

Then of course there's the 20 valve ones ... we've got them kicking around 
here (cars imported from Japan) and we can get parts (if anyone wants any 
.... we get what japan gets : )

Ade

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:57:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: 4AG Clutch (again)
To: Toyota Mods 

> Just today though someone mentioned the 4AGZE clutch assy... does this plate
> have any more clamping load than the stock '86 plate, and will it fit on the
> '86 flywheel? 

Hmm, I don't know if this will help .. probably not.  I have a transaxle 
from an 85 (blue top engine) sitting in my garage.  I also have the old 
button clutch that came out of my SC MR2 .. one day I was fiddling/mucking 
around and tried to put the clutch disk onto that pole thingy that goes thru 
the clutch  (don't know the name, I'm just a girl  ; ) ... well, the hole in 
the clutch plate was too big ... so i assume they are different sizes from 
the different model engines?  I'll check tonight when I go home ... and see 
if I can prove myself a lier!! : )

Later

Ade - still learning the names of all those ....... part thingies!!    ; )

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:07:15 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: '85 HKS clutch

                                                                                
If I decide to put a 1985 clutch (200mm) on my '86 (212mm), will I need to      
change or relocate the starter?  Is the ring gear in the same place or is       
the overall diameter of the flywheel different?                                 
                                                                                
Also, does anyone have experience with the HKS light flywheel and clutch        
setup?                                                                          
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:21:16 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust

                                                                                
Todd wrote:                                                                     
>I am in need of a new muffler for my 1987 mr2. I was told that                 
>I could put the muffler from a later model supercharged mr2 and this           
>wouldproduce better "flow". Is this true ? How will this affect the            
                                                                                
[snip]                                                                          
-------------------------------                                                 
                                                                                
I've always wondered if the supercharged muffler would work well on a regular   
MR2.  This was recommended to me by a racer friend, but I ended up buying the   
HKS instead...  Did you get any responses on this question?  I'm still curious. 
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 15:00:00 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 4AG Crank key problem

To the list,
Well I knew I should have stuck with the 3TG! Chris's CAM's arrived and I was
driving to the airport. On the freeway I first noticed the 'charge' indicator
then some time later the engine temp went way off the dial! I shut the engine
down in the middle of peak hour traffic and pushed it to the side of the road
(not easy with a TRD LSD pack!). Lokked under the bonnet to find the harmonic
balanced had broken the keyway, spun and removed the bolt. The remains of
the key had got so hot that I couldnt get the belt pully off. I got a new
pully but how to get the old key out? For the first time in 17 years I
had my road car towed home. My wife laughed as she drove home in her new BMW
that never breaks down, asked why I drive a 12 year old pile of junk! I never
did pick up Chris's CAMS, I will when I figure out how to fix this problem.
Swapping to a new engine is looking easier. In the mean time I'm staying
at home because I cant stand what my wife is going to say if I borrow the
keys to the BMW.

FYI
Australain Injector prices
4AG $200-$250 for 4
3SG SAME as 4AG
7M (non turbo) $75 each
7MGT not in stock in Melbourne
Bruce Connelly
P.S. Do not use high shims. They will crack and cause engine destruction, get
the CAMS ground properly not the cheap method of removing the base circle.

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 14:46:40 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Injectors?

I have an '85 MR2 w/177k.
How long are my fuel injectors good for?  is this a dumb question?
Should I replace them?  are they serviceable?
tanx.

Robert 
REESE001@aol.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 14:52:36 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: '85 HKS clutch

In a message dated 96-03-14 13:27:27 EST, dave writes:

>If I decide to put a 1985 clutch (200mm) on my '86 (212mm), will I need to
>change or relocate the starter? 

Hey Dave, this is likely a dumb question, but why would you want to downsize
the clutch diameter? Weight? Just curious. 

Bruce  RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 15:17:42 -0500
From: Mark Sink 
To: msink@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: '85 HKS clutch

RBC199@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 96-03-14 13:27:27 EST, dave writes:
> 
> >If I decide to put a 1985 clutch (200mm) on my '86 (212mm), will I need to
> >
> >change or relocate the starter?
> 
> Hey Dave, this is likely a dumb question, but why would you want to downsize
> the clutch diameter? Weight? Just curious.
> 
> Bruce  RBC199@aol.com
> '89 MR2

I'll let Dave answer that, but the smaller surface area will give more
pressure against the flywheel.  Pressure=force/surface area.
Centerforce  discs have little triangles cut out, and are not fully
covered by disc material.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 15:44:23 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust

In a message dated 96-03-14 14:35:41 EST, you write:

>>I am in need of a new muffler for my 1987 mr2. I was told that
>>I could put the muffler from a later model supercharged mr2 and this
>>wouldproduce better "flow". Is this true ? How will this affect the
>>
>I've always wondered if the supercharged muffler would work well on a regular
>MR2.  This was recommended to me by a racer friend, but I ended up buying the
>HKS instead...  Did you get any responses on this question?  I'm still
>curious. 
> 
I was just talking to John Broderick at MR2 PP, and he was telling me they're
fooling around with an variable exhaust much like the Yamaha EXUP motorcycles
of the late 80's. I believe he said they're still in the experimental stage,
but they worked on the FZ's I used to ride. I think he also said they're
going to offer them for Mk1 and 2.

Bruce   RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2 with _homemade_ exhaust    

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 17:07:05 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Clutch Diameter

                                                                                
Bruce wrote:                                                                    
>Hey Dave, this is likely a dumb question, but why would you want to downsize   
>the clutch diameter? Weight? Just curious.                                     
---------------                                                                 
                                                                                
No, not a dumb question.  Besides the P=F/A situation, the light flywheels      
are available only for the 200mm disk size.  This is true (to my knowledge)     
for both the TRD and HKS flywheels.  Thus they're only available for the '85    
clutch assembly.                                                                
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 14:14:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: 20V 4AGE ... want one?
To: Toyota Mods 

Firstly, thanks to all you guys for giving me the correct name of the 
Gearbox INPUT SHAFT!! woo hoo ... does this mean I'm a spanner chick now?  ;)

Peter Mejak said:
>         BTW, in reference to your earlier post about 20-valve 4AG's, what sort
>         of money are they going for over there?

Then Bruce said:

> 20 Valve 4AGE head....or am I dreaming about this?

Well, found out some interesting stuff about the 20V 4AGE.  They came out in 
about '92 .. their designed for 98 octane unleaded petrol.  The ONLY thing 
they have in common with the 4AGE is the name ... different EVERYTHING. 
  Yes we can get ANY parts here, including the engines.  There's a few 
around, I'm waiting for the guy to phone me back about the prices.  There's 
a guy here who's put one in his lotus 7 replica (same as the one me and my 
bf are building and gonna put a 4AGZE in!! >: )

There's a 3door Corolla GT hatchback on one of the car lots apparently, 
that's got the 20V 4AGE.   Might have to go and have a look!!! : ) 
Varrrrooooooooooommmmmmm  160hp! : )

hehehehehehhehehehee

Ade

PS. also saw a V6 honda engine that was a TURBO .. i didn't think honda put 
out turbos ... ohhhhh yeah .. ALSO got to go for a ride in a NSX ... 
boyfriend drove it ... I didn't bother having a drive .. after all .. it's 
not a toyota!! ; )  Nice car though!! : )

PPS. I'll post the prices when I get them!! : )

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From: Richard Leong 
Subject: shopping for new suspension
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 14:38:52 -0800 (PST)

I'm thinking of replacing my springs and shocks this summer.  Can anybody 
offer suggestions as to which kind or combination of springs and shocks I 
should be getting?  I definitely want a set of adjustable shocks, like 
the Tokico Illuminas, however these are not available for my car.  Oh, I 
forget to mention there're for an '86 Celica GTS.  I'm currently looking 
at Koni shocks with H&R springs.  Has anyone had experience with these 
brands, or should I be going for something different?  Why H&R, someone 
might ask?  Well, the guy told me he could get them for less than the 
EIbach, and he said they lowered the car more than the Eibach's.  1.25 
inches compared to 1 inch for the Eibachs.  HE also quoted the price as a 
package for $1280Cdn, which I guess is roughly $1600U.S.?

Richard Leong  | Red with one-of-a-kind body-kit
'86 Celica GTS | Powerflow and custom exhaust
leongc@sfu.ca  | Still looking for the perfect suspension upgrade

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 16:03:21 -0700 (MST)
From: Lance Heinrich 
Subject: Re: shopping for new suspension
To: Richard Leong 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Richard, 

Can't help you on the technical issue (since I don't have a Celica), but...

> inches compared to 1 inch for the Eibachs.  HE also quoted the price as a 
> package for $1280Cdn, which I guess is roughly $1600U.S.?

The conversion would be more like: $1280 CAN  =  $934 US
or                                 $1600 CAN  =  $1170 US
ie. exactly opposite (roughly) of what you show.

Just buggin' ya :-)

Lance.
      ---------------------------------------------------------------
      | Lance Heinrich        @       Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
      | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
      |
      | 1991 MR2 Turbo
      | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 23:46:24 +0000
Subject: Re: Bored out throttle body
Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Hi all,
         On the subject of bored out throttle bodies, I found a
machine shop here in Canada that did mine for me. It cost me
$150.00 and I am pleased with the work done. Not any machine 
shop can do this sort of work as in addition to enlarging the 
bore and replacing the butterfly, the intake side has to be tapered
to suit or the flow would be impeded. 
    I would have to say that this is one of the best mods I have done 
and leads me to believe that tweaking the AFM, disabling the EGR
valve and installing a bored out throttle body with a free-flow
exhaust and good air filter would net something like 15-20 hp on 
the 4AG motor. 

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: maths
To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 02:31:01 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)

> >        Hello Group!
> >
> >  Is there a mathmatical formula for the relationship between crank hp and
> >rear wheel hp? Or is it just a rule of thumb? If so what is the rule? Thanks!
> >
> >Chris W Morgan
> >1979 Celica Sunchaser
> >1984 Celica GT Hatchback
> >1985 Celica GTS Convertable
> >
> Yup, for an average RWD car you could use 25%-30% loss. For a FWD, I think
> 25% would be about right, and a 4WD up around 30%-35% I'd reckon.
> FWIW, the most efficient would probably be a Top-Fuel drag car - they have
> no gearbox, only a computer controlled six-stage clutch and a live axle diff
> - 10%-15%?? (neglecting tyre drag)
> 
> The B Man.

Jesus!
We've used 15-17% loss with RWD and FWD.
I'd be happy to use 25-30% and say I had 231-247hp...
That would mean I'd be also exceeding ye olde Gp B figures soon =)

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * loadsahpsoonihope
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 00:41:53 +0000
Subject: Re: 4AG cranks
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Bill,
       In the Datsun 240/260 motors the difference in cc is made with 
the crank. The stroke is longer for that from the 260 motor and  just 
putting a 260 crank assy in the 240 brings it up to 2600 cc from
2400cc. This information has been documented along with other
stuff pertaining to the interchangeability of parts between the 
various models. In these motors the thickness of the walls between
cylinders is such that the 280 pistons can be put into the 240 with
the crank bringing a 240 up to 2800 cc or even overbored to 3.1l.
In the 4AG motor the thickness of the wall between cylinders is 
such that overboring cannot give a significant increase in capacity
and that is why I was suggesting to the list that there could be a 
chance of a crank from another Toyota motor working in the 4AG
motor as a stroker crank. With an increase in stroke the 4AG motor
could put out an extra 25-30 hp, however, I am not going to put 
out $2,000-3,000USD for a TRD stroker crank and would 
anyone else on this list if we could walk into a junkyard and come
out with a guaranteed 30 hp? All we need to do is some research 
to see if Toyota is like Nissan and the cranks are interchangeable 
and readily available in the junkyard.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 21:09:48 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: So many requests for info!

I've made about $100 worth of long distance phone calls today on
various subjects that have been discussed here on TM, and decided
to just do one post and let everyone know what I found.

Shims:  Select sells TRD shims, which retail for $9.67 each! (swoon!)
I'm not sure what they sell them for, but here is what I can do
on them:
        ?-2.9mm:       $6.15 each
        3.0 - 3.25mm:  $6.98 each

Stock Toyota shims (just as good, I reckon!) are also expensive, but
not that bad.  I can get them for anyone on the list for 10% off retail.
(This goes for anything Toyota sells, btw.) (Steve I:  I called JG
and they only do shims for their own head work, as you suspected.)

Throttle Bodies:  The TWM throttle bodies are basically just like Bruce
Crawford described.  They are designed to bolt up just like a set of
Weber sidedrafts do.  They are available in various sizes from 40mm
to 55mm--per bbl!  To be pedantic, these are considered 1 throttle body
per two intake runners (according to Keith at AEM), but in either
event it's just like a Weber DCOE:  One carb, two bbls, two intake
runners, except now it's one throttle body, two bbls, one injector
per bbl, and one bbl per intake runner.  Right now I can sell them for
$246.10 per throttle body (two needed for a 4 cylinder engine.)  Doh,
I just realized that I don't know if that includes the injector, but
I'm guessing that it does.  BTW, you'll also need a computer to run
these.  I really like the description of that setup that Bill told
us about, especially the price.  Complete 4 cylinder fuel injection
for just under $1000.  That's not bad at all.

Clutches:  There are several different clutch manufacturers, including
Centerforce, Japspeed, Ferodo, TRD, Marcel, and others.  Since we
were discussing 212mm 4AG clutches:

Centerforce I, CF035542, $308.46
Dual Friction, DF542035, $354.13
TRD Pressure Plate, 550Kg (vs 450Kg stock): $255
Marcel (Ferodo-style) Disc, $140
Japspeed (Metallic) Disc, $150

Some folks like Centerforce, some folks don't.  For a performance
clutch, you can't beat the price.  Centerforce clutches include both
the pressure plate and disc, so they are priced about $50-$100 less
than the other guys.  The TRD pressure plate is "while they last",
since they're not being made anymore.  Marcel is a good street/strip
disc, and is basically made out of the same material as a Ferodo
unit.  Japspeed is a metallic disc (Dave talked about this one a bit
yesterday), and is also a good street/strip clutch, but probably a
little more strip than street.

Weber rebuild Kits (DCOE):  Somebody asked about these and I can't
find their mail at the moment.  Dave A?  Anyway a real WEBER-made
rebuild kit is $30.  You can get a generic-type kit for quite a bit
less, down around $22-$23, but as much work as it is to completely
rebuild a carb, you don't really want to do it twice, do you?

Nobody here on TM has asked about throttle body rework, but I've learned
a little about this that folks may be interested in.  You can have a
throttle body reworked (uh, made a bit bigger plus ?) for about $200.
JG (818-281-5326) will do them for about $175, and AEM (310-327-9336) 
does them for $225.  Call them direct--I really can't get anyone a
better deal than this.  If you call AEM, ask for Keith and tell him
that I sent you (I need the brownie points!)  On the MR2, I'm assured
that the stock throttle body (4AG) is worth 350hp, so I probably 
wouldn't bother spending the bucks on that one.  This can be a pretty
big breakthrough on cars that are designed more for economy (like
maybe the Tercel) so it is worth considering.  Anybody out there had
this done or able to provide some deeper comments?  (BTW, I recommend
AEM--they seem very competent.  JG may be good too, but I just don't
know them.  Anyone?)

Chris

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 21:43:01 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: Injectors?

>I have an '85 MR2 w/177k.
>How long are my fuel injectors good for?  is this a dumb question?
>Should I replace them?  are they serviceable?

Nowadays, injectors are typically serviced in the car.  The mechanic
has a pressure regulator that he attaches to a can of cleaner and
to the fuel line after the fuel filter.  The fuel pump is disconnected
(real important if you don't want gasoline shooting all over the place)
and the pressure regulator set to normal fuel pressure (about 30psi.)
The car is started and run until it empties the can.  Does a
remarkably good job!  Fuel injectors can therefore stay on the car
until there is evidence that they have failed (you'll know) in most
cases.

Before you ask, I don't know where to buy these.  Anyone?

Chris

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 14:56:00 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: 4AG cranks

Hiya all,
         gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca  wrote -

>On the subject 
>of crankshafts the journals for the main and con-rods are the same as 
>for the 3A-C, 4A-LC and 4A-F series engines. It therefore comes to 
>mind that these crankshafts might be the same. Anyone??? Bill??

I not as knowledgeable on 4AG cranks as I'd like to be, but as far as I
understand it, there are three cranks that are used for NA 4AGE's. The
'weakest' crank is used on the 86 kw big port engine (AE-86 type), the next
best (and most common) is the one from the 88 kw (AE-82, etc), and by far
the strongest is the 100 kw used by the GT Corollas. I have no idea what the
4A-LC or 4A-F uses. (Nor do I care ..... :)
FWIW, the 3A-C is a 1452cc, and shares the same stoke as the 4A series, so
the crank may be the same. There is also a 2A 1295cc, (smaller bore & stoke)
and the original 1A, which I understand shares 1452cc with the 3A.

>On the other hand, if these cranks are not the same but have 
>different offsets then with suitable connecting rods they could be 
>suitable as factory stroker cranks thereby raising cc and bhp.
>   Just my thoughts.
>
Doubt it. You can only increase the stoke on a standard type crank by
counter-grinding the crank bearings and using smaller bearing shells. A bit
messy, and you can only change the stroke by a mm or so - not really worth
it. Now, if someone could come up with a supply of 7A-FE cranks it would be
a VERY different story ..... (1762cc, and say a 1mm over bore = 1806 cc, a
more substantial figure)

The B Man.

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 14:56:25 +1100
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: 4AG heads

Hiya all,

RBC199@aol.com wrote a couple of days ago - 

>Will a 4AGE head bolt up to a 4AGZE block? Should, right?
>
Can't see why it wouldn't, as I'm fairly sure the only physical differences
in the two blocks is that the Z block has extra ribs on the side - probably
to change to resonant frequency of the block, etc. I am also sure that the
last of the 4-valve 4AGE's ALL had the same ribs on the sides of their
blocks, so perhaps Toyota cut costs by using one block for all engines?

The B Man.

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 23:18:54 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: rsalerno@li.net (Russell Salerno)
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     : Russ Salerno
Location : East Meadow, NY, USA
Model    : 1993 MR2
Engine   : 5S-FE normally aspirated
Mods     : None (yet).  Researching the idea of transplanting an MR2 turbo
           3S-GTE motor/dash into the car.
email    : rsalerno@li.net

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Date: 14 Mar 96 23:39:25 EST
From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com>
To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" 
Subject: 1991 MR2 Turbo

I have a few questions for you guys:

1.  I'm looking for a new clutch for my car.  When I took it in for the 60k
service, they said that I need a new one soon.  How much does one go for?  I'm
thinking about TRD, Centerforce, or HkS.  

2.  What mods do you suggest for my car?  I have a stainless steel Trust exhaust
already.  I live in CA, so I prefer to keep everything legal.  

3.  Can I get larger tires on my stock 14x6 and 14x7 wheels?

Thanks,

Alex

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 18:18:03 +1100
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Injectors?

>I have an '85 MR2 w/177k.
>How long are my fuel injectors good for?  is this a dumb question?
>Should I replace them?  are they serviceable?
>tanx.
>
I reckon that you should get them cleaned about every year or so. They
should last the life of the car without any problems that way.
How to tell if they are in need of attention? Hmmm, a bit tricky, but if I
had to guess, I'd say just let the car idle for a while, then (turn the
engine off) pull the plugs out, and if one (or more) injectors aren't
flowing properly then the plug should show a lean condition. (Lighter colour
than the others)
Anyway, it's not that expensive to get them cleaned - here in Aus it's quite
common to have mobile busineses that travel to your house and do it on the
spot for Aus$25 or so each. When they are tested, you can see with your very
own eyes the spray pattern and amount of flow. (They are usually tested and
cleaning in a 'test rig', which is a set of calibrated glass tubes next to a
clock that let you see how much each injector flows in xxx seconds. And the
spray pattern.) The injector dude then usually changes the filter screen
inside the injector body, and that's all there is to it.

The B Man.

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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Anyone have copies of the last three weeks' messages? 
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 12:03:10 -0500
From: Tom Julien 

Aaron Buhr  writes:

>    My ISP's mail server crashed last weekend and erased the ~2200 
>messages I had in my inbox (don't ask), including all the very helpful 
>info people had sent me about 7MGTE fuel injector upgrades.  I have 
>copies of all the messages I sent, but I no longer have copies of what I 
>had received, and I would really like to get them again.  If anyone has 
>copies of those messages, or even just copies of all messages sent to the 
>list(s) for the last three weeks or so, I'd appreciate getting copies.  
>Thanks!

If they were sent to -mods, they'll be on the web server within
a week.  If they went to the supra list, I have the digest
form archived if you need them.

/*************************************************************
Thomas J. Julien                      E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com
Engineering Unix Support                 Tel: 407-826-7685
Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL        Fax: 407-826-1881
*************************************************************/

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From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 11:47:28 CST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: M series engine into 76/77 celica

Someone suggested that I should put a 18RG engine into my Celica.  I don't think
I want the expense (what would it cost?) or the headache trying to get parts for
it.  But that brought back an idea I had to try and put a 5MGE or 7MGTE into it.
 I saw a post which talked about putting a 7MGTE into a 82-86 supra.  I think it
said you could also put it into a Celica of the same series.  I thought it was a
page by Reg Reiner but I checked again and it is not there.  Is there a source 
for information on engine weights and dimensions?  I think I'll go to the 
junkyard and measure some engines and engine bays.     

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From: Richard Leong 
Subject: Re: shopping for new suspension
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:49:57 -0800 (PST)

Thanks for my slip-up.  I didn't realize it at the moment.  I got so used 
at reading Car&Driver and converting from U.S. to CDN that, well you get 
the picture. :-)

Richard Leong  | Red with one-of-a-kind body-kit
'86 Celica GTS | Powerflow and custom exhaust
leongc@sfu.ca  | Still looking for the perfect suspension upgrade

> 
> Richard, 
> 
> Can't help you on the technical issue (since I don't have a Celica), but...
> 
> > inches compared to 1 inch for the Eibachs.  HE also quoted the price as a 
> > package for $1280Cdn, which I guess is roughly $1600U.S.?
> 
> The conversion would be more like: $1280 CAN  =  $934 US
> or                                 $1600 CAN  =  $1170 US
> ie. exactly opposite (roughly) of what you show.
> 
> Just buggin' ya :-)
> 
> Lance.
>       ---------------------------------------------------------------
>       | Lance Heinrich        @       Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
>       | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
>       |
>       | 1991 MR2 Turbo
>       | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged

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From: Gary Hong 
To: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: M series engine into 76/77 celica
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 13:03:22 PST

Charles,

Reg put a 7mgte in a mark2 supra (82-86) supra.  I asked him about the
swap for a celica and he told me that it maybe doable, but there isn't
room.  The engine will probably hit the radiator.  Ifyou end up putting
a 7mgte in yoru celica I would be interested as I have an 82 celica with
about 60 hp at the wheel!
gary

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From: Sven@cris.com
Subject: Re: 4AG cranks
To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 16:06:20 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> >On the subject 
> >of crankshafts the journals for the main and con-rods are the same as 
> >for the 3A-C, 4A-LC and 4A-F series engines. It therefore comes to 
> >mind that these crankshafts might be the same. Anyone??? Bill??
> 
> understand it, there are three cranks that are used for NA 4AGE's. The
> 'weakest' crank is used on the 86 kw big port engine (AE-86 type), the next
> best (and most common) is the one from the 88 kw (AE-82, etc), and by far
> the strongest is the 100 kw used by the GT Corollas. I have no idea what the
> 4A-LC or 4A-F uses. (Nor do I care ..... :)
> 

Bill, 
    I do not claim any knowlegde of 4AG crankshafts (or speeling for that 
matter ;), however, I am curious because my 85 MR2 has an AW11 engine 
code and thought you might know what the other codes might mean.
  
    The 4AG engine has 4 possible engine codes (according to TRD as of '91 
catalog - a little out of date...).  These being AE82, AE86, AE92 and 
AW11.  You mentioned the the AE86 and AE82 above and I was wondering what 
the other two crankshafts might be rated as, in comparison to the the 
other engines in this group.  

   Oh, also, the 4AGZ (SC engine version from 88-89) shares the AW11 engine 
code along with the 4AG.

Just trying to add a little confusion to this already confused discussion.

Sven
'85NA MR2

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 13:14:51 -0800
From: jmontign%spc.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (JEFF MONTIGNY - NEW PRODUCTS ENGINEER)
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com"%GPO.DNET@uvs1.orl.mmc.com
Cc: "toyota-l@bgu.edu"%GPO.DNET@uvs1.orl.mmc.com
Subject: Toyota TCCS Vf line meter

Hi all,

 I am a contributing member of the Supra Owners Group. With the assistance of
Reg Rimer, President of SONIC (Supra Owners Network in Canada) I have
developed, designed, and am ready to produce a LED display for the Toyota 
TCCS computer's Vf line.

 I am a 23yr old Electronics Engineer at National Semiconductor, Maine. This
meter is the 2nd generation unit, the first one had a problem lighting up the
RICH led = Vf=0.0v. This new one works great.

 After reading the info below, it will be obvious how this meter can protect
your modified Toyota. It is also helpful to diagnose ill stock toyotas.

I am not a business, I am an obsessed Supra owner who uses his skills to make
electronic mods for my car. I have sold 9 1st generation meters to my fellow
Supra owners. I have never seen a meter for this TCCS output for sale, I think
it is unique. Feel free to visit my member page in the Supra Group site:
                               www.supras.com
I use the slight profit gained from the meters to make other Supra projects, 
just by chance this time, almost all Toyotas have this output.
Example: Real Projects in Que: 
	Human Voice status announcements
	Cheap Turbo Timer
	Intake Air Temp Meter

 Visit my meter page to see this info AND a pic of the enclosure:
                     http://www.supras.com/m_offer2.html

 This meter beats the pants off any Oxygen Sensor meter, be sure of that!

- Please respond to me if you would like a meter. -
Regards,
 Jeff Montigny, JMONTIGN@NSC.COM
 Obsessed Supra Owner
 Electronics Engineer, BSEE
    ___          ___   ___   ____         '89 HKS Stage III equiv.
    \___  \   \  \__)  \__)  \___\ 
     ___\  \___\  \     \  \  \   \ *Every thing else is just transportation.* 
      ____          ___   ___   ____
        \    \   \  \__)  \  )  \   \              "MY TURN"
         \    \___\  \  \  \__)  \___\  See me at: http://www.supras.com

=Include file:=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Quick review to to make sure all are up to speed with this little project:

         The MKII, MKIII, and the MKIV, have a TCCS output called Vf. 
	 (This line output is described by Reg at the end of this document.)

         I have used an application note from a Analog chip here at National
         Semi to implement a display meter for the Vf signal.

	To install, you will need to:
         1: Tap into the Vf signal at the diagnostic box and carry it into the
         car for everyday/constant reading.
         or
         2: You could just tap right at the diag. box for a quick idle check.
         Option 1 is much more informative!

	About the Vf Meter:
         -The device is a almost commercial-quality
           printed circut board (no internal wires), with soldered
           components, LEDs, and output wire leads.
         -The enclosure looks like a slim small beeper.
         -The face side is the end, like most beepers have the readout.
         -The dimensions of the enclousure are: 2.2" x 2.8" x 0.71" .
         -The material of the box is textured plastic.
         -A tail of 3 wires come out the bottom of the enclousure: 12V, GND, Vf.
	 -The supply voltage can be 3v to 35v, no kidding!
         -The display face is clear, the LEDs shine thru the window.
         -The display is five colored leds. 
	   Only one led is illuminated at a time.
           The led array is: r-y-g-y-r colors. The definition of the LEDS is
           given by Reg in two notes at the bottom of the letter.
	 -There is a green *on* light.
	*-Can be used by other cool Toyota and Lexus vehicles with a Vf line.

  I have made 9 first run meters so far. They all have been sold to 6 
  supra group members. This ended up being a Beta test it seems, 
  I came up with a few fixes.

  This is NOT a business, just a project by myself, another obsessed Supra
  owner.

  Price: US$  50. in enclosure
	      40. without enclosure
  Shipping included.

 Regards,
         Jeff M., JMONTIGN@NSC.COM
	 23yr old electronics engineer
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 From: riemerr@cadvision.com (Reg Riemer)
 You may want to look into using the Vf output from the diagnostic block. It
 outputs 5 stepped voltages up to 5 volts, telling you what the TCCS thinks
 the system is doing.
     -* spec *-   	-* most cars *-
 0.00 volts = Rich          0.0v
 1.25 volts = Good          1.1v
 2.50 volts = Best          2.19v
 3.75 volts = Good          3.5v
 5.00 volts = Lean          5.0v    
                                                             

 The voltage may not exactly represent the figures above, according to my
 TCCS Tech books. The point is that there are 5 steps to the system. My car
 always runs in the good to best areas on the rich side. I have seen it go
 to lean with cold startup and while decelerating with foot still on gas
 pedal. This system is telling you what the TCCS fuel trim system thinks the
 system is doing based on all measured conditions, not only on the O2 sensor
 reading. The fuel trim system has a number of factors governing its
 operation. The TCCS uses a look-up database in its memory to cross
 reference its measured information with what the current data is. This is
 why the idle speed on the 7M-GTE always moves around from time to time. IE:
 air on, lights on, car moving, etc. It is normal for the GTE engine to idle
 at about 1200 rpm when rolling into an intersection, then when at the
 light, resting to ~700rpm.
Reg
/
{SONIC} Supra Owners Network In Canada
FROM THE HOME OF THE SUPRA GTE
Information provided is given free of charge in good faith without prejudice.
Calgary Alberta Canada. T2Y-2Y1 Hm#403-254-0035
\
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-* Additional note from Reg *-

The Vf output has three different types of Vf output.

*OXYGEN SENSOR FEEDBACK MODE
*DIAGNOSTIC MODE
*LEARNED VALUE MODE

See below for details:
_____________
#1
Oxygen Sensor Feedback Mode.

*T1 and E1 Connected
*Idle contact point off
*Engine at 2500 rpm

Result of Ox sensor signal processing
5v.......Rich

or

0v........Lean
0v...........Open loop condition
_______________
#2
Diagnostic Mode

*T and E1 connected
*Idle contact point On
*Engine off

Results of Diagnosis
5v........Normal

0v........TCCS Trouble code stored, check 'Engin Light'.
________________
#3
Learned Value Mode

*T and E1 not connected
*Any Speed

Result of Air-Fuel ratio voltage feedback

0v...........Rich             *red*
1.25v.........Normal          *yellow*
2.5v...............Normal     *green*
3.75v.........Normal          *yellow*
5v...... ...Lean              *red*
			      On Light= another *Green* LED

Learned Value:

It is a fuel injection correction coefficient which tailors the standard
fuel injection duration to minor differences between engines due to
manufacturing tolerances, wear, and minor mixtures disturbances like small
vacuum leaks.

This coefficient is capable of altering the calculated injection {before Ox
correction} by as much as 20% to prevent Ox sensor correction from being
excessive.

If you encounter a driveability problem that sets no codes, this Vf voltage
feedback can be of some help. Especially code 25/26. {engine condition rich
or lean}

Note:
*Discard Vf reading when engine is cold.
*The Vf learned value tells you how hard the ECU is working to keep the
engine running properly.
*After loss of power to ECM, it will take a certain amount of time to
relearn, depending on the engine model and vehicle driving conditions.
*The ECM will learn faster if the input signals are stable 
*At high altitude operation, Vf can be 0v but it is considered to be normal
{lack of oxygen}
*Vf voltage reading may be different, depending on accuracy of voltmeter,
and connections. However, the number of steps 5 are still the same. {e.g.
1.10v instead of 1.25, 2.2v instead of 2.5v, 3.5v instead of 3.75v}
*Vf voltage can be "border line" also, flipping back and forth between 2 ranges.
_______________
Learned value mode fuel trim conditions

Vf	Condition	Fuel Compensation by ECU	Meter Display
------	---------	------------------------	-------------
0v     	Rich 		-(11-20)% 			Red
1.25v   Norm 		-(4-10)%  			Yellow
2.5v  	Norm    	+/-(3)%                         Green 
3.75v  	Norm 		+(4-10)%  			Yellow
5v      Lean    	+(11-20)% 			Red
							On = Green

Reg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: ITSSupra@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 16:25:13 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name:  Bill Snowden
Location:  Orlando, FL
Model:  1982 Supra
Engine:  5MGE
Mods:  Fully prepared ITS racecar
Model:  1985 Supra
Engine:  5MGE
Mods:  Fully prepared ESP Solo II car
Model:  1983 Cressida
Engine:  5MGE
Mods:  Very few
Email:  ITSSupra@aol.com

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 16:26:56 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: '85 HKS clutch

In a message dated 96-03-15 11:51:00 EST, you write:

>In F1 cars they use wery smaal diameter clutch to get the weight
>point lower. Becouse they don't have high diameters they have to
>use multiple disk systems - they use 6 to 10 clutch plates on that
>to get more torque handling.

Motorcycles (most) use this same principle. Multiple friction and drive
plates.

Bruce    RBC199@aol.com
'89 MR2

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 21:44:55 +0000
Subject: Re: Stroke/torque/hp
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Hi Bill,
            With reference to your last message in which you said 
that increasing the stroke of a motor would increase the torque but 
not the hp and could result in a loss of hp, I have an example of a 
factory stroking a motor and claiming an increase in both hp and 
torque, namely the L24 and L26 as used in the 240Z and 260Z.
The bore is the same at 83mm with the stroke on the 240 being
73.7mm and that on the 260 being 79mm. The height is the same at 
265.9mm. 

                    240Z                          260Z
BHP                 151@5600                      165@5600
Torque              146@4400                      157@4400

      So from the specifications it appears that the factory stroked 
the L24 motor 5.3mm and called it the L26 and claimed an increase in 
both hp and torque.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca                             

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 15:19:33 -0700 (MST)
From: Jim Collins 
To: Sven@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 4AG cranks

On Fri, 15 Mar 1996 Sven@cris.com wrote:

> > 
> > >On the subject 
> > >of crankshafts the journals for the main and con-rods are the same as 
> > >for the 3A-C, 4A-LC and 4A-F series engines. It therefore comes to 
> > >mind that these crankshafts might be the same. Anyone??? Bill??
> > 
> > understand it, there are three cranks that are used for NA 4AGE's. The
> > 'weakest' crank is used on the 86 kw big port engine (AE-86 type), the next
> > best (and most common) is the one from the 88 kw (AE-82, etc), and by far
> > the strongest is the 100 kw used by the GT Corollas. I have no idea what the
> > 4A-LC or 4A-F uses. (Nor do I care ..... :)
> > 
> 
> Bill, 
>     I do not claim any knowlegde of 4AG crankshafts (or speeling for that 
> matter ;), however, I am curious because my 85 MR2 has an AW11 engine 
> code and thought you might know what the other codes might mean.
>   
>     The 4AG engine has 4 possible engine codes (according to TRD as of '91 
> catalog - a little out of date...).  These being AE82, AE86, AE92 and 
> AW11.  You mentioned the the AE86 and AE82 above and I was wondering what 
> the other two crankshafts might be rated as, in comparison to the the 
> other engines in this group.  

actually these codes refer to the car (as far as i know this system works 
up to the very new cars and possibly some trucks) the first letter refers 
to the engine block e.g. if the first letter is an 'A' then the engine is 
an 'A'-series engine such as a 4AG, 3AC etc, if it is a 'T' it is a 'T' 
series engine e.g. 2TG 2TC 3TGTE, etc.  the second letter is the model of 
the car e.g. 'P' is a starlet, 'E' is a corolla, 'A' is for celicas and 
carinas, 'W' is for mr2.  the last two numbers refer to the specific car 
with higher numbers meaning newer as in a KE27 is an older car than an 
AE86 but this does not translate from model to model as in you can't tell 
just by the numbers if a AW11 is older than an KE27.

> 
>    Oh, also, the 4AGZ (SC engine version from 88-89) shares the AW11 engine 
> code along with the 4AG.
> 
> Just trying to add a little confusion to this already confused discussion.
> 
> Sven
> '85NA MR2
> 

hope this helps a little bit.

*              James Collins              *
*     collinsj@bigdog.engr.arizona.edu    *

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From: Raikkonen Timo 
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" 
Subject: Re: Valve shims - 2TG...
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 17:51:00 PST

HI all!

About shims for 2TG. Here in Finland they were and still are (I think)
very rare and expensive! I founded that Peugeot 205 engines has
almost the same (diameter 1mm smaller) as 2TG and of course
lot cheaper and most of all available here! They are almost as
hard as 2TG's shims and do the job really good!

Hope this was usefull info!

 -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi)

PS. Those of u who don't know - Peugeot 205 is a small 4 seater with
3 doors from France. Available with 1.1 to 1.9 liter engines - 1.9 has
130 hp and is called GTI.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
= = = =

On the subject of shims, there is a motorsport shop in Canberra (Car
Torque) that sells shims for 18RG's and 2TG's for $5 Aust. a pop. Having
never seen a 4AG shim not sure if this is of any use to you guys, if the
shims are different they might still have them in stock. The number is
(06) 2808067

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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From: Raikkonen Timo 
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" 
Subject: RE: Anyone have copies of the last three weeks' messages?
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 18:16:00 PST

Hi Aaron!

What are u going to do with the stock 7MGTE injectors? :) I could use
them on my 4A-GE...!

 -Timo-
 ----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List; Toyota Modifications Mailing List
Subject: Anyone have copies of the last three weeks' messages?
Date:  13. 03. 1996 13:47

    My ISP's mail server crashed last weekend and erased the ~2200
messages I had in my inbox (don't ask), including all the very helpful
info people had sent me about 7MGTE fuel injector upgrades.  I have
copies of all the messages I sent, but I no longer have copies of what I
had received, and I would really like to get them again.  If anyone has
copies of those messages, or even just copies of all messages sent to the
list(s) for the last three weeks or so, I'd appreciate getting copies.
Thanks!

Aaron B.

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From: Raikkonen Timo 
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" 
Subject: RE: maths
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 18:43:00 PST

Hi there!

From real life here in Finland! Dynoed hp's...

#1 1.6 liter aircooled VW beetle (turbo) 285hp from the engine
and 248hp from wheel. (My friends street car and pulls real hard :)
(Dynoed by Mr. Harinen - Finland)

#2 1.7 liter VW beetle (turbo)142hp (engine) vs. 120hp (wheel).
(Dynoed in Polytechnical High School in Espoo - Finland)

#3 4WD Rally Audi had under 10% difference between wheel
and engine.
(Dynoed ST. Motors - specilized for Rally cars etc - only 4WD dyno
in Northern Europe)

#4 Volvo 850 (FWD) 142hp (engine) vs. 130hp (wheel)
(Dynoed ST. Motors - specilized for Rally cars etc - only 4WD dyno
in Northern Europe)

 -Timo-

 ----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: toyota-mods
Subject: Re: maths
Date:  14. 03. 1996 15:43

>        Hello Group!
>
>  Is there a mathmatical formula for the relationship between crank hp and
>rear wheel hp? Or is it just a rule of thumb? If so what is the rule? 
Thanks!
>
>Chris W Morgan
>1979 Celica Sunchaser
>1984 Celica GT Hatchback
>1985 Celica GTS Convertable
>
Yup, for an average RWD car you could use 25%-30% loss. For a FWD, I think
25% would be about right, and a 4WD up around 30%-35% I'd reckon.
FWIW, the most efficient would probably be a Top-Fuel drag car - they have
no gearbox, only a computer controlled six-stage clutch and a live axle diff
 - 10%-15%?? (neglecting tyre drag)

The B Man.

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From: Raikkonen Timo 
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" 
Subject: Re: '85 HKS clutch
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 18:52:00 PST

Hey there!

Three things that effects in clutch - plate pressure, diameter and
the number of clutch plates.

In this case u lose more than gain! If u use small copper plates on
your clutch plate then u have higher pressure (force/pressure area),
but remmeber to keep the original diameter or u won't gain as much
torque handling as u could!

In F1 cars they use wery smaal diameter clutch to get the weight
point lower. Becouse they don't have high diameters they have to
use multiple disk systems - they use 6 to 10 clutch plates on that
to get more torque handling.

 -Timo-
 ----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: msink
Cc: Toyota-mods
Subject: Re: '85 HKS clutch
Date:  14. 03. 1996 15:17

RBC199@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 96-03-14 13:27:27 EST, dave writes:
>
> >If I decide to put a 1985 clutch (200mm) on my '86 (212mm), will I need 
to
> >
> >change or relocate the starter?
>
> Hey Dave, this is likely a dumb question, but why would you want to 
downsize
> the clutch diameter? Weight? Just curious.
>
> Bruce  RBC199@aol.com
> '89 MR2

I'll let Dave answer that, but the smaller surface area will give more
pressure against the flywheel.  Pressure=force/surface area.
Centerforce  discs have little triangles cut out, and are not fully
covered by disc material.

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From: Raikkonen Timo 
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" 
Subject: RE: shopping for new suspension
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 19:07:00 PST

Hi!

H&R is even more popular in Europe than Eibach! I think that Eibach
has done good job advertising its' products! H&R is the best what I
have experienced - my friend in Germany (home of both springs -
I recall) told that they are both (Eibach & H&R) the best u can get!
There are also some other good manufacturers in Europe like
G&M etc.

 -Timo-

PS. Don't go for Jamex even if u could find them somewhere. They
are made in "where ever the price is lowets"-country. They usually
cuts off and also gets tired and soft!

PPS. The best suspension u get if u go the way of rally cars! Find a
shop that makes your suspension adjustable (like in rally and track
cars) and use then two small springs - diameter usually about ~8cm.
Use soft and stiff spring in compination to get the best ever ride
possible - I think these aftermarket factory made springs are
kinda compromise. But what do I know... :)

 ----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: toyota-mods
Subject: shopping for new suspension
Date:  14. 03. 1996 14:38

I'm thinking of replacing my springs and shocks this summer.  Can anybody
offer suggestions as to which kind or combination of springs and shocks I
should be getting?  I definitely want a set of adjustable shocks, like
the Tokico Illuminas, however these are not available for my car.  Oh, I
forget to mention there're for an '86 Celica GTS.  I'm currently looking
at Koni shocks with H&R springs.  Has anyone had experience with these
brands, or should I be going for something different?  Why H&R, someone
might ask?  Well, the guy told me he could get them for less than the
EIbach, and he said they lowered the car more than the Eibach's.  1.25
inches compared to 1 inch for the Eibachs.  HE also quoted the price as a
package for $1280Cdn, which I guess is roughly $1600U.S.?

Richard Leong  | Red with one-of-a-kind body-kit
'86 Celica GTS | Powerflow and custom exhaust
leongc@sfu.ca  | Still looking for the perfect suspension upgrade

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 22:33:56 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Welcome to toyota-mods

Does anyoneone have as bad a luck as I do with mufflers?
My '85 Mk1 has eaten two so far....rusted through.
Fortunately, it's under warranty.

TOYOTA POWER!!  :)

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From: DavidKaren@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 23:00:49 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MK1 wheels

Hi guys, 

I just purchased (second hand) a set of light wheels for my MR2 and I'm
curious to know just how light they are!  Do any of you have a stock aluminum
wheel (85-88 NA) with a 185 60R14 tire on it laying around?  If so, how much
does it weigh?  I'd weigh one of mine but they're on the car which is in
storage...

Mine weigh in at 27lbs each for wheel & Yokohama A008R with about
2/32 or 3/32 of tread left (not much).

Thanks a bunch! 

Dave Aucott
1986 MR2
daucott@e-mail.com, golf1par@aol.com

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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 23:31:27 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 wheels

In a message dated 96-03-15 23:13:15 EST, you write:

>I just purchased (second hand) a set of light wheels for my MR2 and I'm
>curious to know just how light they are!  Do any of you have a stock
aluminum
>wheel (85-88 NA) with a 185 60R14 tire on it laying around?

Sorry guys... misfire.  I had this one stored in a different account (I was
wondering where it went!) and when I logged on it sent it...

(however, I'm still looking for how much it weighs...)   :D

Dave A.

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 23:47:26 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: V-6 MR2??

Does anyone know if a V-6 Supra engine will fit or can be mated to a
Mk1 MR2???

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 16:06:03 +1100
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: RE: maths

Hiya all,
         Timo has come up with some actual figures, so we can all make
better guesses/assumptions now. It seems that my estimates were a tad
pessimistic - lets look at the percentage loss in each car - 

>#1 1.6 liter aircooled VW beetle (turbo) 285hp from the engine
>and 248hp from wheel. 

- 248/285=87%, a 13% loss.

>#2 1.7 liter VW beetle (turbo)142hp (engine) vs. 120hp (wheel).
>
- 120/142=84.5%, a 15.5% loss.

>#3 4WD Rally Audi had under 10% difference between wheel
>and engine.
>
- A 10% loss.

>#4 Volvo 850 (FWD) 142hp (engine) vs. 130hp (wheel)
>
- 130/142=91.5%, an 8.5% loss.

A VW Beetle gearbox is closer to the action of a FWD than a traditional RWD,
but the differential is driven less efficiently. The only RWD part they are
missing is the tailshaft, so they'd pick a small (a percent or so?) amount
of efficiency that way. (compared to RWD)

In Aus, (and England) we have a 2-litre Touring car series - the top
contenders are BMW, Audi, and to a lesser extent Ford (Mondeo, a Mazda V-6
clone). The fastest car in a straight line is the BMW (Ford not far behind),
and the Audi losing out some at terminal velocity. I believe the Audi to
possibly be a better engine for two reasons - 1. The cylinder size is closer
to the optimum 4-stroke size of 400cc, and 2. 5 cylinders might be better
for torque. (but lose out on friction) Disregarding all other factors
(aerodynamics, tyres, etc), this means that the Audi has greater
transmission drag than the other cars, but as it has a 4WD gearbox, this is
not surprising. (It'll also pull up better than any of the other cars
because it can use engine braking to far geater effect) Ok, how much does it
lose? If we can use the figures of 13%-15.5% for the VW's, then there is not
much chance that the Audi can be better than that with a 4WD box, is there?
(Yes, the rally gearboxes are more efficient than what the public get, but
effectively 50%? Hmmm, possible, but not likely.)

The Volvo. I agree that a FWD gearbox is more efficient than a RWD, but I am
still dubious of the relationship of the figures. I'll explain why.

I have seen many reports of chassis dyno's being somewhat less than
accurate. I believe the only accuate chassis dyno available is the one that
sits in your own workshop. (if any) Not using this as an excuse, but too
many times I have heard of customers being enticed back to the same dyno
shop with the promise of extracting more power. This is of course done for
finacial reasons - on the part of the owner of the dymno shop. If you go to
a shop because they are getting results in increasing power for you, then of
course you'll go back there. The owner of the shop, if unscrupulous enough,
will change the loading on the dyno to make it appear as if your engine is
producing more power than what it is - believe me, it is laughably easy to
do this and stay undetected. As an example, a friend of mine recently had
his sports car dynoed at 155 hp, when in fact a car that was dynoed at
another place at 125 hp can outrun the first car easily! In other word, I
take the figures from a chassis dyno with the proverbial 'grain of salt'.
Good for impressing the kids. I DO believe, however, that they are good for
making comparisons when you alter spark timing, cam timing etc - not
ultimate figures.

Engine dynos are far more accurate, but can also lead to artificial power
figures, eg, when Australia was running Group A Touring Cars, a number of
teams had Ford Sierra Cosworth Turbo's - On an engine dyno they can produce
a genuine 600 hp, but (mainly for cooling restrictions) in the car they were
down to only 550hp - an 8.5% loss.

Another consideration is enviromental - the colder the air, the more power
the engine puts out. A rough rule of thumb is for 1 deg C, power goes up 1%.
If there was a 5 deg difference when the figures were taken, (chassis vs
engine dyno) then that could be a factor.

The engine figures aren't qualified - are they SAE, DIN, or BHP? Big
differences - I think that SAE is hp at the flywheel with the engine having
no waterpump, fan, alternater, etc. So if the Manufacturer uses SAE, then
you are being fooled. DIN is (I think) with all ancilliaries fitted.
Technically, BHP is the measure of hp AT the driven wheels, ie, HorsePower
applied to the (dyno) Brake.

How about tyre pressure? By bumping your tyres from 28 psi to 38 psi, you
can increase your fuel economy noticably - it's all part of % loss.

>
>Yup, for an average RWD car you could use 25%-30% loss. For a FWD, I think
>25% would be about right, and a 4WD up around 30%-35% I'd reckon.
>FWIW, the most efficient would probably be a Top-Fuel drag car - they have
>no gearbox, only a computer controlled six-stage clutch and a live axle diff
> - 10%-15%?? (neglecting tyre drag)
>
>The B Man.

Ok, all that being said, I'm quite happy to compromise and take about 5% off
all my figures. If Timo could get some more comprehensive details as to how
all those figures were obtained, then we could get some more accurate data
on % loss in transmissions. I'll call a RWD 20% - 25%, FWD 15% - 20%, and a
4WD 25% - 30%.

The B Man.

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 14:50:43 +0200
To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood)
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: RE: maths
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

I have a program in my computer that will indicate among other things
mentioned losses due to gears and wheels for various cars.

Here are some all indicated at a speed of 100 mph
transm losses are giver around 100mph for low and high revs lim.

a) MR2 Turbo 1991

Tires          =       10 HP
Trans          =       35 - 50 HP
Aerodyn        =       40 HP

b) VOLVO 740 TURBO 1990

Tires           =       5 HP
Trans           =       35 - 45 HP
Aero            =       65 HP

c) VW CORRADO SLC 1992

Tires           =       15 HP
Trans           =       24 - 35 HP
Aero            =       40 HP

d) MAZDA RX7 TURBO 1990

Tires           =       10 HP
Trans           =       40 - 50 HP
Aero            =       45 HP

I can look on specific requirements if in my program.
Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D.
ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS
Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr
                   
 

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: V-6 MR2??
To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 16:31:36 +0200 (EET)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> Does anyone know if a V-6 Supra engine will fit or can be mated to a
> Mk1 MR2???

The Supra has an INLINE 6...

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 08:44:48 -0600 (CST)
From: Mike Kronvold 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: V-6 MR2??

On Fri, 15 Mar 1996 REESE001@aol.com wrote:

> Does anyone know if a V-6 Supra engine will fit or can be mated to a
> Mk1 MR2???

     the M series engines are inline 6, and I can't see a 7M-GTE 
   fitting in the passenger compartment of a Mk1 MR2 let alone in 
   the engine bay.  But hey, I've see a 355 with a blower in an
   '82 MkII Supra so anything's possible with enough money.

   - Mike
--
Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering
(708) 543-9191    424 Interstate Road  Addison, Illinois  60101  USA
Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation............
          Bad Command or Filename.  Go stand in the corner.

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 11:34:57 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 4AG Clutch Decision

                                                                                
OK folks, I know I've about beaten this issue to death, but I finally decided   
what clutch to get for my MKI.  I'm putting in the HKS 200mm light flywheel     
and HKS 1380 lb (627 kg) pressure plate.  Thanks to everyone that commented,    
and especially to Mark for making me an offer I couldn't refuse!  :)            
                                                                                
I still need a clutch disk, and I've been warned that the metal disk may "eat   
up" the HKS flywheel and that the HKS disk doesn't last long, so I've decided   
to go with the Ferodo material.  This should give me good streetability and     
good track performance.  How long will it last?  Who knows...                   
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2 - now with clutch!                                                     
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: Raikkonen Timo 
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" 
Cc: bilzilla 
Subject: Re: 4AG cranks
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 96 16:46:00 PST

Hi there!

I have early '88 model of FWD AE92 FX Gti Corolla. I have installed
4A-GZE pistons and almost installed the connection rods too, but the
rods were as far as I could figure the same (!?) - piston pin hole & bearing 

size. Anyway the cylinder block had the same bearing journals than
4A-GZE (bigger than early 4A-GE models). Also the block seems to be
different from RWD engines. I think Toyota changed to bigger bearings
in the 88's (some really early AE92 4A-GE engines have for somereason
small bearing journals!)

 -Timo-

 ----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: bilzilla
Cc: toyota-mods
Subject: Re: 4AG cranks
Date:  15. 03. 1996 16:06

>
> >On the subject
> >of crankshafts the journals for the main and con-rods are the same as
> >for the 3A-C, 4A-LC and 4A-F series engines. It therefore comes to
> >mind that these crankshafts might be the same. Anyone??? Bill??
>
> understand it, there are three cranks that are used for NA 4AGE's. The
> 'weakest' crank is used on the 86 kw big port engine (AE-86 type), the 
next
> best (and most common) is the one from the 88 kw (AE-82, etc), and by far
> the strongest is the 100 kw used by the GT Corollas. I have no idea what 
the
> 4A-LC or 4A-F uses. (Nor do I care ..... :)
>

Bill,
    I do not claim any knowlegde of 4AG crankshafts (or speeling for that
matter ;), however, I am curious because my 85 MR2 has an AW11 engine
code and thought you might know what the other codes might mean.

    The 4AG engine has 4 possible engine codes (according to TRD as of '91
catalog - a little out of date...).  These being AE82, AE86, AE92 and
AW11.  You mentioned the the AE86 and AE82 above and I was wondering what
the other two crankshafts might be rated as, in comparison to the the
other engines in this group.

   Oh, also, the 4AGZ (SC engine version from 88-89) shares the AW11 engine
code along with the 4AG.

Just trying to add a little confusion to this already confused discussion.

Sven
'85NA MR2

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From: "Gary Friedman" 
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date:          Sun, 17 Mar 1996 12:36:01 +0000
Subject:       Tire Width (AVS vs 8000)

>I have the 225/50-15 AVSi on my car right now, and I haven't noticed any 
>significant difference in width from the Dunlop D40-M2 or the Falken F05-G in 
>the same size.

The width of AVS and 8000 are  identical.  I got very detailed info on
both tires before getting my 8000s!!  Overall and ground contact
specs are equal when measured on the same size rim. 

On the Yoko spec chart it is VERY EASY to misinterpret data  as I
initially thought there was a difference too. There is not.

 Make sure you are comparing:
    -- INFLATED AND LOADED measurements
    -- Same size rims used in both measurements
    -- Compare ground contact patch width on 8000 to 
                     ground contact patch width on AVS...They're equal
    -- Compare overall tire width on AVS to
                      overall tire width on 8000.................They're equal

Don't compare overall width on one to footprint on the other-- they 
are not the same measurement.  

Note that the D40s ARE WIDER than either the AVS or 8000 in any given 
tire size!!  Go to Dunlop's web page and check out their tire library  (think I 
recall the address was http://www.dunlop.com)  It will illustrate 
some of these sims/difs.

I like my 8000s-- especially in the South Florida rain, but I often
feel that I could really push out of curves (dry weather) much harder
with other tires. 

The only gripe I have with the 8000s is that when I go from a full
stop into a fastly accelerating left or right turn (ie. left turn
lane) the subjective feel is that the tires lose grip way before
they should.  I almost always find myself easing off the throttle
because it feels like tire-spin-fishtail time. Yes, I have LSD. I
don't recall this sensation from the cheaper house brand V rated
tires that were on the car when I first got it.  They probably had a
wider footprint at the expense of sidewall rigidity.  Whatever.  

Umm, nevermind,-- I'm probably just another obsessive-compulsive
 MR2T owner :):)    [wondering if  there is life after MR2 trivia?]

Time to go for a drive with the tops out!!

Gary

          Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!!
     MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway
Because, Like Montana,  You Can Go as Fast as You Want in CyberSpace

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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 11:13:49 -0800 (PST)
From: //Jayson Entao// 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods...

	Hi everyone.  Just joined the list....

ME: Jayson Entao

LOCALE: Sacramento/SF Bay Area, California

MINE: 1981 Starlet, 4K-C engine, 155K miles

MODS: None, if you don't count 3 sets of seat covers.  That will change 
soon.

EMAIL: jmentao@ucdavis.edu

	So far I have had little luck finding shops or suppliers for 
this car, not surprisingly.  But as long as I have my Starlet and an 
email address, I'll be on this list!

						-Jayson

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From: "BARCZAK JAMES A" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 07:30:16 CST6
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers

> Does anyoneone have as bad a luck as I do with mufflers?
> My '85 Mk1 has eaten two so far....rusted through.
> Fortunately, it's under warranty.

My 85 MR2 still has the original factory muffler.  (90k miles)
However, you might want to move to a stainless steel muffler (like 
borla or other such high performance mufflers)  They often have very 
good warranties with the added benefit of more power.  Although, if 
your mufflers are under warranty, I wouldnt complain, just get 
yourself your new muffler 

Jim

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:20:48 -0800 (PST)

Name: Micky Thutiyakul
Location: San Francisco, California, USA
Model: 1989 MR2 Supercharged
Engine: 4AGZ
Mods: HKS oversized pulley, TRD Headers, Trust Exhaust w/ stainless Borla 
finned tips, Adjustable Tokico Illumina Shocks, Eibach Pro springs, 15" 
BBS Modas w/ Pirelli 205-50 P-Zeros.
Email: Micky@orion.sfsu.edu

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:32:02 EDT
Subject: losing power in top gear
Cc: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Hi all,
         Over the weekend I finally replaced my tired front struts 
and was running a new model Mustang V8. I found then that my 
motor would redline 4th gear at which time I was doing about
170-180 kph (105-110 mph) then when I put it into 5th it went a bit 
faster then the power dropped off at around 5400 rpm. Any ideas
anyone?
=====================================================

Gregory Chan     E-mail: GChan@Compserv.SenecaC.On.Ca
85 Corolla GTS & 73 Datsun 240Z
Computer Support Specialist,Seneca College,Ont,Canada
Tel: (416)491-5050 Ext 2129        Fax: (416)491-6596
             "You break it, I'll fix it."

^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 12:51:57 -0800
From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong)
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: WOB (non-toyota) really fast cars on USA TV, net
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Guys (and gals),

   Sorry for the waste-of-bandwidth, but I picked up something some
of you might be interested in seeing online and on the tube (USA).
Enjoy! 

Leslie

PBS ONLINE FEATURES (http://www.pbs.org/)

THE FASTEST CAR
Nova Online highlights the fastest cars on earth: the people behind the
wheels; the ideal conditions for racing; and the ultimate goal of going
supersonic on land. Online resources include a "Hot Science" challenge on
the concepts of lift and drag; information about the Bonneville Salt Flats
where the fastest cars careen by at speeds over 600 miles per hour and a
lesson plan for physics classes.

    http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/nova/fastcars/

On USA Public Broadcasting System:

* NOVA
"Fast Cars"
Tuesday, 3/19 (8-9:00 pm ET)
Champion race car driver Bobby Rahal and a team of engineers strive to
design a new car that can win the checkered flag at the Indy.
CC/Stereo/Repeat. Visit the Nova home page from PBS ONLINE
(http://www.pbs.org)

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 17:28:08 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 4AG CAMS

To the list,
Chris's package arrived in Australia and as promised the HKS flywheel and
thin head gaskets are really nice stuff. Stay tuned next week as I'm putting
this wheel in my 1985 4AG with its metal disk clutch and standard plate.
The cams are 270's but they are the type that achieves the duration by
grinding the base circle away. This means large shims. On the 2TG the
large shims were trouble. They cracked and resulted in zero bucket to
cam clearance. The cams ground the bucket away and the motor was history
with all that metal in the oil system. But the 4AG has a much larger shim
and if hardened properly this type of grind may work ok, the trick is to
get a very hard shim of the correct thickness. I will measure the shim
thickness and see if I can get them locally. In short my 2TG ran a 280
grind in the base circle manner, if the shims are correct the motor WILL
run just as well as a welded cam. For those of you that have written to me,
these CAMS are not HKS quality, as you just drop an HKS in and go, they use
standard base circles but with a supply of good quality shims,small grinds of
260 to 280 should work ok. It may well be usefull for Chris to append the HKS
setup instructions as, these detail the all important 'G' value and overlap.
Bruce Connelly

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:35:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: Question for Koji
To: Toyota Mods 

Hi there

Could you please email me about your contact in Japan??

Thanks heaps

Ade
adem@wairc.govt.nz

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From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 16:54:36 -0600
Subject: Re: losing power in top gear
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

The car is running out of steam.  The aerodynamics, friction losses, rolling 
resistance, ETC finally was too great for the engine to overcome.  a lot of cars 
go 'faster' in 4th than in 5th or 6th.  usually the engine can't overcome the 
load put on it by shifting to a higher gear. (Less mechanical advantage)  also 
you might be in the 'peak powerband' at that speed, and shifting to 5th moves 
you outside the peak, thus not only did you decrease the engine's mech. 
advantage, but you just put it in a RPM range where it's not making as much 
power.

in short it sounds like it's time to add some more power.

- Brian

On Mon, 18 Mar 1996, "Gregory Chan"  wrote:
>Hi all,
>         Over the weekend I finally replaced my tired front struts 
>and was running a new model Mustang V8. I found then that my 
>motor would redline 4th gear at which time I was doing about
>170-180 kph (105-110 mph) then when I put it into 5th it went a bit 
>faster then the power dropped off at around 5400 rpm. Any ideas
>anyone?
>=====================================================
>
>Gregory Chan     E-mail: GChan@Compserv.SenecaC.On.Ca
>85 Corolla GTS & 73 Datsun 240Z
>Computer Support Specialist,Seneca College,Ont,Canada
>Tel: (416)491-5050 Ext 2129        Fax: (416)491-6596
>             "You break it, I'll fix it."
>
>^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 01:26:53 +0100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: christof@server.net4you.co.at (Chris Orasch)
Subject: me/mine/mods

   Hi everyone on this list. Here is the info about my MR2 you might be 
   interested in.

Name     :  Chris Orasch
Location :  Duerrenmoos - Carinthia - Austria - Europe
Model    :  91 MR2, Yellow, with T-Tops 
Engine   :  3S-GE upgraded with a Turbo
Mods     :  Turbo-upgrade
            REMUS-Exhaust
            EIBACH Springs
            Tires: front: 205/45/16 rear: 225/50/16 (looking for 17" or 18")
            Looking for Ferrari-F40 like rear wing - can anybody help??

email    :  christof@net4you.co.at  

 
    --- Chris

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 01:26:55 +0100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: christof@server.net4you.co.at (Chris Orasch)
Subject: 91MR2 Rear Wing

  Hello all!

Can anybody tell me where I can get a Ferrari F40-like rear wing for my 91MR2??
Please respons SOON!!

 Thanks - Chris

 christof@net4you.co.at

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:53:58 +0800 (WST)
From: Travis Morien 
To: BARCZAK JAMES A 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers

On Mon, 18 Mar 1996, BARCZAK JAMES A wrote:

> > Does anyoneone have as bad a luck as I do with mufflers?
> > My '85 Mk1 has eaten two so far....rusted through.
> > Fortunately, it's under warranty.
> 
> My 85 MR2 still has the original factory muffler.  (90k miles)
> However, you might want to move to a stainless steel muffler (like 
> borla or other such high performance mufflers)  They often have very 
> good warranties with the added benefit of more power.  Although, if 
> your mufflers are under warranty, I wouldnt complain, just get 
> yourself your new muffler 
> 
> Jim
My 1988 n/a has eaten one muffler since I bought it at the start of last 
year, and checks of the past maintainance records say that it has already 
been replaced once in 1991, and this is ising "genuine" toyota parts.  
Not sure exactly what is going on here, any of you guys have any comments 
on either the quality of Toyota mufflers or the MR2's abilities to eat 
them with such gusto?  In Australia they cost a firtune (and I presume in 
other countries too).

Travis> 

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 17:49:07 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David 
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     : David Rees
Location : School-UC San Diego   Summer:Mountain View, CA (Bay Area)
Model    : 1981 Celica GT Liftback
Engine   : 22R Carbureted
Mods     : Jacobs Ignition, freeflow exhaust, audio componentry, electric fan
email    : drees@ucsd.edu

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 20:59:07 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: NOBODY PANIC!

I'm going off to Natural Guard for 8 days, so I've unhooked my 
umbilical cord to the TM group.  Having had this lifeline for several
years now, I'm not too sure how I'll survive, but it is necessary.
Trying to run the business long distance is going to be nearly
impossible.  If I had all of those juicy email's from TM to read
and respond to, I'd never survive my 8 days away from the helm
of CAP.  

I'll be resubscribed around 30 March.  If I'm working on getting
some information for you, I haven't blown you off--the info is
forthcoming.  If you have something you need, or want to email
me for any reason, go right ahead and do so--I'll still be reading
and responding to my regular email.  The problem is that I get about
50-60 email messages a day, which isn't that much except that I have
to generally do mucho research, make phone calls, and then respond 
to about 50-75% of them.  At best this is a fulltime job (along with
assisting my assistant, who handles at least 50% of the CAP mail
which I never see!).  Doing it from 200 miles away is going to be
a nightmare.

Enough whining, sorry for the interruption.  Back in a while...

Chris

(PS: I'm already off TM, so I won't get any responses to this unless
you email me directly.)

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 18:08:33 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David 
Subject: 22R engine mods

Hi,  I've got a 22R engine in my '81 Celica which I want to modify.  So far,
all I've done is add a Jacobs Ignition and a freeflowing muffler.  I heard
that it is possible to bolt a 20R head onto the 22R and since it is a better
flowing head, you get better performance.  Are there any bolt on carburetors
out there which will give better performance but remain smog legal in CA?
(I need to drive the car for transportation, you know!)  Thanks, Dave

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:18:42 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer)
Subject: Re: Tire Width (AVS vs 8000)

Doh!  I'm not going to get a copy of this, but I couldn't resist
just a quickie note.  Everybody remember that the width of a tire
is completely IRRELEVANT to the tire patch size--it just affects
its shape.  Take a 185/80 and a 255/60 and put 30psi in both
tires.  Now, put one on the car, measure the contact patch, then
do the same with the other tire.  The patch will be the same!
(Tread will affect this some, but let's say that the tread pattern
is about the same.)

Why a wider tire then?  A couple of good reasons.  Probably the
best one is that a tire with more surface area is better able to
dissapate heat and will wear less per revolution.  Is handling
any better?  Maybe, maybe not.  Handling improves as the height of
the tire shrinks.  Further comments?

There are a series of absolutely excellent articles on the British
Car web site that explain this and more.  I'd give the address,
but I'm too lazy to fire up the web browser at the moment and
look.  I'm 90% sure that I put a link to this info from the TM
web site way back when, so start looking there  (Maybe going there
will inspire someone to do some web page work for the woefully
neglected site!)  www.cyberauto.com/toyota-mods

Chris

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Brake cable
To: AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Adrienne Mora)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 01:04:45 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> >         Friday I backed my car out of the garage and went to set my 
> e-brake
> >      so I could get out and close the garage door.  I pulled back on the
> >      handle and got a loud snap followed by a bang and the car then 
> decided
> >      it would not go anywhere.  After a couple minutes of working the
> >      e-brake handle (which now is *very* loose) and stomping on the 
> brakes,
> >      the car decided it would drive again.  Would this be a broken cable? 
> 
> >      I have frozen the brake on before, but this is very different (very
> >      loud noise, I about jumped out of my seat when it happened!).
> 
> I had that happen to me too ..... I bought the cables and replaced them 
> myself .. piece of cake .. email me if you want more details
> 
> Ade
> adem@wairc.govt.nz
> New Zealand
> '86 SC T-Top MR2  "M1STR 2" ... newly installed 6 disk shuttle ... 
> weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee : )
> 

Hi Ade,

	I would really appreciate the details of the E-brake cable
replacement.  When I first bought the car, the brake cables were frozen and
needed replacement which cost about $400 by a local repair shop.  I do about
80% of my repairs myself now, but I've been a little reluctant of the idea
of replacing these cables.  My car has been garaged for the winter and I've
been avoiding setting the E-brake as much as possible in hopes to avoid
having it freeze on me.  But I know it will probably happen again within the
next few years, so it would be a great help to know how to replace them in
detail.

					Thanks :)

					Aly
					'85 MR2, Red with all options
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: Gary Hong 
To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 22R engine mods
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 1:46:23 PST

From: David 
>
>Hi,  I've got a 22R engine in my '81 Celica which I want to modify.  So far,
>all I've done is add a Jacobs Ignition and a freeflowing muffler.  I heard
>that it is possible to bolt a 20R head onto the 22R and since it is a better
>flowing head, you get better performance.  Are there any bolt on carburetors
>out there which will give better performance but remain smog legal in CA?
>(I need to drive the car for transportation, you know!)  Thanks, Dave

Hi Dave!

Glad you finally got on the mods list.  You can bolt a weber (is it the 32/40?)
in place of the stock carb.

Gary

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From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 08:43:28 -0600
Subject: Re: 22R engine mods
To: David ,

You're in luck, I just did *almost* the same thing to my 22R pickup, except I 
went for the 40mm weber DGAV carb. (not smog legal)  If you want the details, 
let me know. - yes there is a smog legal 32/36 combination I have heard.

- Brian

On Mon, 18 Mar 1996, David  wrote:
>Hi,  I've got a 22R engine in my '81 Celica which I want to modify.  So far,
>all I've done is add a Jacobs Ignition and a freeflowing muffler.  I heard
>that it is possible to bolt a 20R head onto the 22R and since it is a better
>flowing head, you get better performance.  Are there any bolt on carburetors
>out there which will give better performance but remain smog legal in CA?
>(I need to drive the car for transportation, you know!)  Thanks, Dave
>

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From: "BARCZAK JAMES A" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:46:23 CST6
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers

> > > Does anyoneone have as bad a luck as I do with mufflers?
> > > My '85 Mk1 has eaten two so far....rusted through.
> > > Fortunately, it's under warranty.
> > 
> > My 85 MR2 still has the original factory muffler.  (90k miles)
> > However, you might want to move to a stainless steel muffler (like 
> > borla or other such high performance mufflers)  They often have very 
> > good warranties with the added benefit of more power.  Although, if 
> > your mufflers are under warranty, I wouldnt complain, just get 
> > yourself your new muffler 
> > 
> > Jim
> My 1988 n/a has eaten one muffler since I bought it at the start of last 
> year, and checks of the past maintainance records say that it has already 
> been replaced once in 1991, and this is ising "genuine" toyota parts.  
> Not sure exactly what is going on here, any of you guys have any comments 
> on either the quality of Toyota mufflers or the MR2's abilities to eat 
> them with such gusto?  In Australia they cost a firtune (and I presume in 
> other countries too).

I have not noticed that MR2's eat mufflers.  However, in Wisconsin 
(where I am)  they put salt down on the roads to melt the snow and 
ice.  This salt  causes a lot of corrosion/rust on exhaust and cars.  
So this may be a reason for the mufflers being "eaten".  Also, 
cheaper aftermarket companies may not use as high of quality metal in 
their mufflers, which may cause faster corriosion and shorter life 
spans.

Jim

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:32:45 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: '85 mufflers

                                                                                
>I have not noticed that MR2's eat mufflers.  However, in Wisconsin             
>(where I am)  they put salt down on the roads to melt the snow and             
>ice.  This salt  causes a lot of corrosion/rust on exhaust and cars.           
>So this may be a reason for the mufflers being "eaten".  Also,                 
>cheaper aftermarket companies may not use as high of quality metal in          
>their mufflers, which may cause faster corriosion and shorter life             
>spans.                                                                         
                                                                                
It's also important to know that they rust out from the INSIDE, not the         
outside.  If you have a short drive to work you may never evaporate all the     
condensation that is created when you first start up, thus leaving water in     
your muffler and rusting it out quickly.                                        
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: RE: TRD headers
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:49:59 -0800 (PST)

Forwarded message: 
> 
> > Name: Micky Thutiyakul
> > Location: San Francisco, California, USA
> > Model: 1989 MR2 Supercharged
> > Engine: 4AGZ
> > Mods: HKS oversized pulley, TRD Headers, Trust Exhaust w/ stainless Borla
> > finned tips, Adjustable Tokico Illumina Shocks, Eibach Pro springs, 15"
> > BBS Modas w/ Pirelli 205-50 P-Zeros.
> 
> How did the TRD Headers improve things???  Low end? top end? Torque?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ade
> Adem@wairc.govt.nz
> '86 SC T-Top MR2 (japanese import)
> 

I had the TRD headers installed the same time as my exhaust, so I'm not 
sure exactly how much it contributes to the overall performance 
increase.  The car always had a lot of low end torque to begin with, so 
the increase in the low end was unnoticeable.  The car definitely 
breathes a lot better though, and when you let the supercharger kick in 
at speeds over 100 mph, the engine feels less strained at accelerating, 
and lets out a very satisfying growl behind you as compared to the buzz 
saw it use to be.  

By the way, is the year on your MR2 correct?  I didn't know that SC MR2s 
were made prior to '88 even in Japan. 

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:00:15 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers

**************Mk1 MUFFLERS**********

Hey Trav,
My experience so far with the Mk1 mufflers hasn't been good.
I got my '85 in '90 and the muff was shot then.
After multiple repairing attempts, I gave in and went to the dealer (this is
a stretch because we only have ONE toyota dealer in the area and these guys
are the epitomy of slime).
They promised a "Full-Lifetime guaranty" on a new stock muff so i went for
it.  $120 installed.
I could have gotten one cheaper ($85+-) but it wasn't stock, had no war., and
didn't accept the chrome tips.(I've seen a few MR2's like that and they look
stupid w/o the chrome).
***********........The extra $$$ just payed off.  I recently noticed that my
"new" muffler is now disintegrating.  I went to the "dealer" and informed the
gentleman (I use this loosely) behind the counter that I wanted a new one.
 They gave me grief (told ya').  BUT, I just got off the phone w/them and
they have agreed to replace it.  :)   :)    :)
MORAL:  GET A WARRANTY!!!!!!!!! GET IT IN WRITING!!!!!!!!!
The mid-engine design seems to leave a lot of standing condensation in the
muffler, this is what apears to rust it out.  People have been talking about
'stainless steel' units but that makes no sense to me.  "If you heat
stainless steel, it takes out the temper and it's no longer "stainless
steel"...am I right?

'nuf said.

Until Next....................................................Robert

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From: Gary Hong 
To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: 22R engine mods
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 13:09:43 PST

From: Gary Hong 
>
>From: David 
>>
>>Hi,  I've got a 22R engine in my '81 Celica which I want to modify.  So far,
>>all I've done is add a Jacobs Ignition and a freeflowing muffler.  I heard
>>that it is possible to bolt a 20R head onto the 22R and since it is a better
>>flowing head, you get better performance.  Are there any bolt on carburetors
>>out there which will give better performance but remain smog legal in CA?
>>(I need to drive the car for transportation, you know!)  Thanks, Dave
>
>Hi Dave!
>
>Glad you finally got on the mods list.  You can bolt a weber (is it the 32/40?)
>in place of the stock carb.
>
>Gary

I correct myself.. I *think* it's the webber 32/36.

Gary

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:56:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: Brake cable
To: Toyota Mods 

>         Friday I backed my car out of the garage and went to set my 
e-brake
>      so I could get out and close the garage door.  I pulled back on the
>      handle and got a loud snap followed by a bang and the car then 
decided
>      it would not go anywhere.  After a couple minutes of working the
>      e-brake handle (which now is *very* loose) and stomping on the 
brakes,
>      the car decided it would drive again.  Would this be a broken cable? 

>      I have frozen the brake on before, but this is very different (very
>      loud noise, I about jumped out of my seat when it happened!).

I had that happen to me too ..... I bought the cables and replaced them 
myself .. piece of cake .. email me if you want more details

Ade
adem@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand
'86 SC T-Top MR2  "M1STR 2" ... newly installed 6 disk shuttle ... 
weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee : )

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 15:29:05 -0800 (PST)

 
> **************Mk1 MUFFLERS**********
> 
> Hey Trav,
> My experience so far with the Mk1 mufflers hasn't been good.
> I got my '85 in '90 and the muff was shot then.
> After multiple repairing attempts, I gave in and went to the dealer (this is
> a stretch because we only have ONE toyota dealer in the area and these guys
> are the epitomy of slime).
> They promised a "Full-Lifetime guaranty" on a new stock muff so i went for
> it.  $120 installed.
> I could have gotten one cheaper ($85+-) but it wasn't stock, had no war., and
> didn't accept the chrome tips.(I've seen a few MR2's like that and they look
> stupid w/o the chrome).
> ***********........The extra $$$ just payed off.  I recently noticed that my
> "new" muffler is now disintegrating.  I went to the "dealer" and informed the
> gentleman (I use this loosely) behind the counter that I wanted a new one.
>  They gave me grief (told ya').  BUT, I just got off the phone w/them and
> they have agreed to replace it.  :)   :)    :)
> MORAL:  GET A WARRANTY!!!!!!!!! GET IT IN WRITING!!!!!!!!!
> The mid-engine design seems to leave a lot of standing condensation in the
> muffler, this is what apears to rust it out.  People have been talking about
> 'stainless steel' units but that makes no sense to me.  "If you heat
> stainless steel, it takes out the temper and it's no longer "stainless
> steel"...am I right?
> 
> 'nuf said.
> 
> Until Next....................................................Robert
> 

Stainless steel is actually an alloy and not heat treated, so unless your 
muffler's glowing red hot, it should last forever.  (Then again what does?)
If replacing your stock muffler, I'd suggest going for one of the 
aftermarket ones.  My muffler was very close to rust through about 4 
months ago (6 years after I bought the car), and replacing it with a Trust 
exhaust was the best thing I considered.  It's not stainless, but I chose 
it over other mufflers because the sound was much more pleasant.

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:06:07 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers

In a message dated 96-03-19 18:37:30 EST, you write:

>muffler, this is what apears to rust it out.  People have been talking about
>'stainless steel' units but that makes no sense to me.  "If you heat
>stainless steel, it takes out the temper and it's no longer "stainless
>steel"...am I right?

Stainless steel is steel alloyed with chromium, nickel and sometimes other
elements. Exhaust heat won't affect any of the alloys commonly used to make
mufflers.  

Bruce    
'89 MR2  113K 

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:52:29 -0500

eter today from Select Sales. It appears to be a
Cyberdyne meter, which is a decent quality unit. There are 10 leds total,
ranging from red to green. The meter is standard 2 1/16". FWIW, the same
meter can be had from Summit Racing for about $31, P/N CYB-7009. 

Bruce  
'89 MR2  113K

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From: GODKNOWS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:53:49 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: GAB Supra shocks for sale

Well, I'm finally going to sell my GAB adjustable shocks. I've had them for a
while, sitting in my garage in the factory boxes, but I have finally admitted
to myself that I am not going to reinstall them -- Therefore I must sell
them!

These shocks are for a 93.5+ TT Supra (although I don't know why they
wouldn't work on a normally aspirated model). They are 4 way adjustable from
soft to hard. The "soft" setting is 15% stiffer than the stock shocks the TT
comes with. The settings are easily changed with a small slotted screwdriver.

I used them for three months and took them out to have the importer (Wings)
double check the settings -- making sure they adjusted perfectly. Wings put
them on their machine and made sure that each of the adjustments had exactly
the correct resistance.

However, for the period of time that they were off the car and I was using
the factory shocks, I discovered that I liked the ride of the factory shocks
better. Why? Where I live in Los Angeles I am surrounded by old streets that
have tons of tar strips and it just made the car too jiggly -- and my wife
complained a lot! They are fine on smooth roads but for me and my 47 year old
fanny, it was too much.

I originally got them with a set of Eibachs and had them all installed at the
same time. The real purpose was for the car to be more stable for the road
racing I do. They are incredible for that! They just about eliminated any
dive and squat and kept the car that more stable. But for around this town
they were not suited to me.

So, make me an offer! They have been used for 3 months. They retail for $258
each. The fronts are GAB part #GSX9410A, and the rears are #GSX9810A.

They also lower the car some -- a little more than the stock Eibachs.

If you are interested, please email me: godknows@aol.com.

John Page
94TT

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 18:01:48 -0800 (PST)

Forwarded message:
> From REESE001@aol.com Tue Mar 19 16:29 PST 1996
> From: REESE001@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:28:40 -0500 
> Q:    What's the "SC" stand for?
> 

A: Supercharged

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 10:04:38 +0800 (WST)
From: Travis Morien 
To: BARCZAK JAMES A 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 85 mufflers

On Tue, 19 Mar 1996, BARCZAK JAMES A wrote:

> > My 1988 n/a has eaten one muffler since I bought it at the start of last 
> > year, and checks of the past maintainance records say that it has already 
> > been replaced once in 1991, and this is ising "genuine" toyota parts.  
> > Not sure exactly what is going on here, any of you guys have any comments 
> > on either the quality of Toyota mufflers or the MR2's abilities to eat 
> > them with such gusto?  In Australia they cost a fortune (and I 
presume in > > other countries too).
> 
> I have not noticed that MR2's eat mufflers.  However, in Wisconsin 
> (where I am)  they put salt down on the roads to melt the snow and 
> ice.  This salt  causes a lot of corrosion/rust on exhaust and cars.  
> So this may be a reason for the mufflers being "eaten".  Also, 
> cheaper aftermarket companies may not use as high of quality metal in 
> their mufflers, which may cause faster corriosion and shorter life 
> spans.
> 
> Jim
> 
I live in Perth, Western Australia, which is a coastal city, however it 
does not snow here at all, and they certainly don't salt the raods.  I 
used genuine Toyota parts, and the service records say that the previous 
owners did also.
Travis

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 21:49:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine parts needed
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,

   Are the rumors true that I've been reading about HKS no longer producing 
7MGTE head gaskets?  Yikes.  I need a 1.0mm-1.5mm thick, 83.5mm-86mm 
diameter head gasket for the 7MGTE, either HKS or Greddy fine.  This will 
be the third I've owned. :(  (Had an HKS 1.2mm, then a Greddy 2.0mm).  My 
mechanics always think it best to replace them rather than reuse them, 
and after spending thousands on an engine rebuild I'm not going to skimp 
on a $200 part.

   Also, does anyone have a source for 7MGTE and '87-'88 Mazda RX-7 Turbo
injector harnesses?  I'm reluctant to tear up my one and only 7MGTE
harness, and I don't know where to get a Mazda one.  CFM, Supraman? 
Either of you have a source?  Also, if either of you knew someone who's
actually succesfully performed the injector harness modification, I'd be
willing to pay to get it done professionally rather than attempt it
myself. 

   Thanks.

Aaron B.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 22:23:44 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MK1:Eibachs&205/50 15's

In a message dated 96-03-19 14:13:53 EST, Micky wrote:

> Mods: HKS oversized pulley, TRD Headers, Trust Exhaust w/ stainless Borla
>> > finned tips, Adjustable Tokico Illumina Shocks, Eibach Pro springs, 15"
>> > BBS Modas w/ Pirelli 205-50 P-Zeros.

I just bought Illuminas and Eibach Pro's, but haven't installed them yet.
I've got a set of  15x7 Borbet rims with 205/50 A509's. Have you experienced
any tire rubbing with the Eibachs? How's the car on rougher pavement? 

Bruce   
'89 MR2 N/A   113K

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From: Tazitup@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 23:56:44 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: Owner-toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Car problems

Hi,

     Heelllllpp!!!
     I have a 87 MR2 and it is misbehaving. Bad car!
My problem happened right after I filled the gas tank all the way up. So of
course my first opinion is bad gas(No not me!) 
     What happened is as soon as I started my car it started to stutter
really bad, and the RPM gauge started jumping from 2000 to 6000 and
everywhere in between.
Now, since I thought it was bad gas I went out and bought some Dry Gas.
I figured  it was going to get better(There I go figuring again!) after that,
my car decided to get worse.It tried to stall may times and when you went
from a stand still and increased speed it would act like a beginning driver
was in it and tring to learn how to drive on a stick. It jumped alot, even at
high speeds?!.  When it started to stutter real bad my check engine light
would come on for a couple of seconds then go right back off. I ran the
computer test and it said code 3(Bad Ignition Signal) and code 10(Bad Starter
Signal).  
     I talked to a few people around here but unfortunately the Toyota
dealership here doesn't seem to know anything about my car, and I don't
really have anyone around here who does know about MR2's. So far, I was  told
my Ignition Ignitor assembly could be the problem.The gas could be the
problem. (Which now I am at half a tank and it is still acting up). And the
Distributor cap and Rotors could be the problem. Which I took that off to
look at it and it looked clean. But as soon as I put the distributor cap back
on it started to act better.That was two days ago, and I have not driven my
car much. Today it stalled on me once, it is not running as bad as it was but
it is starting to run bad again. It feelslike it is trying to withhold power.

 Help me please.
Sami
87 MR2 T-tops (Little Red Rocket) Caught a cold. 79k
Tazitup@aol.com

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 20:07:23 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Tire Width

Hiya all,

>Doh!  I'm not going to get a copy of this, but I couldn't resist
>just a quickie note.  Everybody remember that the width of a tire
>is completely IRRELEVANT to the tire patch size--it just affects
>its shape.  Take a 185/80 and a 255/60 and put 30psi in both
>tires.  Now, put one on the car, measure the contact patch, then
>do the same with the other tire.  The patch will be the same!
>(Tread will affect this some, but let's say that the tread pattern
>is about the same.)
>
Yup, sounds about right to me. No matter what car you have, it will still
push down on the ground the same amount regardless of what tyres you have on
it. 

>Why a wider tire then?  A couple of good reasons.  Probably the
>best one is that a tire with more surface area is better able to
>dissapate heat and will wear less per revolution.  

Nope, I've found that wide tyres lose tread as quickly, if not quicker than
a narrow set. It also depends upon suspension geometry - if the car has crap
suspension, then as the car rolls, it will alter the camber angles of the
wheel and therefore scrub the outer edges of the tyres more than it should.
That's why a live axle rear end is actually pretty good - the tyres are
always virtually dead flat on the road.

>Is handling
>any better?  Maybe, maybe not.  Handling improves as the height of
>the tire shrinks.  Further comments?

Maybe, maybe not. Quite often the cars ROADHOLDING will improve with wider
wheels/tyres, but the HANDLING will deteriorate. This is mainly due to the
camber changes I spoke of before. With (relatively) narrow wheels/tyres, the
camber change effect isn't as disruptive as with wider wheels/tyres.
*** VERY IMPORTANT - DO NOT confuse handling with roadholding!! They are
only related by (shotgun) marriage! ;)
Eg, at the pinnacle of motorsport we have F1 - it would be possible to get
an F1 car with poor handling to outcorner virtually any other racing car
around, but on the other hand a well set-up long wheel base rally car could
have impeccable handling, but poor roadholding on snow.
The whole roadholding/handling thing is determined by roll centres/roll
axis'/camber changes/castor changes/kin pin inclination angles/scrub
radii/aerodynamics, blah, blah, blah..... you get the idea.

As I sometimes say - there's more time in the suspension than the engine.
And you don't have to put new rings in the suspension every few hours ..... :)

The B Man.

>There are a series of absolutely excellent articles on the British
>Car web site that explain this and more.  I'd give the address,
>but I'm too lazy to fire up the web browser at the moment and
>look.  I'm 90% sure that I put a link to this info from the TM
>web site way back when, so start looking there  (Maybe going there
>will inspire someone to do some web page work for the woefully
>neglected site!)  www.cyberauto.com/toyota-mods
>
>Chris

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From: Gary Hong 
To: Tazitup@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Car problems
Cc: Owner-toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 2:28:57 PST

Sami,

I worked on a friend's Celica that had the above problem.  Narrowed it down to
the plug wires.

Give that a try.. It's cheap - blow your money on plugs, wires, caps, etc. 
before taking it to the dealer!
Gary

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From: Gary Hong 
To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire Width
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 2:45:40 PST

From: Bill Sherwood 
>
>Hiya all,
>
>>Doh!  I'm not going to get a copy of this, but I couldn't resist
>>just a quickie note.  Everybody remember that the width of a tire
>>is completely IRRELEVANT to the tire patch size--it just affects
>>its shape.  Take a 185/80 and a 255/60 and put 30psi in both
>>tires.  Now, put one on the car, measure the contact patch, then
>>do the same with the other tire.  The patch will be the same!
>>(Tread will affect this some, but let's say that the tread pattern
>>is about the same.)
>>
>Yup, sounds about right to me. No matter what car you have, it will still
>push down on the ground the same amount regardless of what tyres you have on
>it. 

If this is true, then it's pretty funny that the people who write for
R&T, C&D, etc, say stuff like , "to put all the horses to the ground, this
mean awesome car has massive 275-40-18 tires!" :).

If you take this to the extreme, a bike tire and a 255/60 car tire don't have
the same contact patch, or do they? 

Gary

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 07:10:26 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Car prolems

                                                                                
Sami,                                                                           
                                                                                
I had the same thing happen to my Nissan truck.  It turned out to be the fuel   
pump and fuel filter.  The filter was so plugged that I wasn't getting enough   
fuel to the carb, and it would stutter and buck like crazy as it would get      
fuel, not get fuel, etc.  Give it a try, the filter's only $2.                  
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave Aucott                                                                     
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 07:27:02 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire Width

                                                                                
>If you take this to the extreme, a bike tire and a 255/60 car tire don't have  
>the same contact patch, or do they?                                            
                                                                                
If we ignore the fact that the bike tire would never FIT on a car...  :)  ...   
yes, they would be the same.  It's simple physics!  The car exerts a force on   
the wheel/tire, and that force is transmitted to the ground.  P = F/A, and the  
tire has some pressure in it (say 32 lbs/square inch) which is exerted on all   
sides of the inner of the tire.  If the downward force on the tire is only 32   
lbs, then there will be only 1 square inch of tire patch.  A 2800 lb car will   
exert roughly 700 lbs of force at each corner, resulting in 700/32 = 21 sq. in. 
contact patch (about 7 in. by 3 in.).  Thus if you have a 7 inch wide tire, 3   
inches of it actually contact the road.  If your tire is 3 inches wide, then    
7 inches contact the road.                                                      
                                                                                
Now, if we take our bike tire in this case of say 2 inches wide, the contact    
patch would need to be 10.5 inces long!  That's a tire with a BIG sidewall      
to allow that much contact patch!  :)                                           
                                                                                
Dave A.                                                                         
1986 MR2 N/A                                                                    
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 08:30:01 EDT
Subject: Cam timing

Hi all,
         A quick question for performance gurus. If both cams on a 
twin cam motor are advanced how much top end would the motor 
lose and how much would be gained at low to mid range rpms.
=====================================================

Gregory Chan     E-mail: GChan@Compserv.SenecaC.On.Ca
85 Corolla GTS & 73 Datsun 240Z
Computer Support Specialist,Seneca College,Ont,Canada
Tel: (416)491-5050 Ext 2129        Fax: (416)491-6596
             "You break it, I'll fix it."

^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 10:34:10 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cam timing

                                                                                
>          A quick question for performance gurus. If both cams on a            
> twin cam motor are advanced how much top end would the motor                  
> lose and how much would be gained at low to mid range rpms.                   
                                                                                
Not sure, but wouldn't you want to advance the intake and retard the exhaust    
to increase overlap?  I did that on my Fiat Spyder and it made quite a          
difference in the top end, but it didn't idle as well.                          
                                                                                
Dave A.                                                                         
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 10:41:38 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Shims

                                                                                
I was thinking about this shim thickness problem for reground cams, and I       
realized the shims for my Spyder went from 3.20 to 4.90mm.  For $80 you can     
buy a set of 68 shims (2 of each size) or for $155 you get a set of 132 shims   
(almost 4 of each size).                                                        
                                                                                
I don't know the diameter of the MR2 shim cuz I haven't taken my cams out yet,  
but I'm pretty sure the Fiat shims are larger in diameter.  What's my point?    
For little money you could buy the Fiat thicker shims and have them machined    
down to the proper diameter.  They were very good shims and I never once had    
a problem with them.                                                            
                                                                                
I had the $80 shim kit, but I let it go with the car.  Now I wonder if that     
may have been a mistake!  Any comments on this?                                 
                                                                                
Dave A.                                                                         
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 08:11:50 -0800
From: jmontign%spc.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (JEFF MONTIGNY - NEW PRODUCTS ENGINEER)
To: "supras@supras.com"%GPO.DNET@uvs1.orl.mmc.com
Cc: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com"%GPO.DNET@uvs1.orl.mmc.com,
Subject: Last Call: Toyota Vf Meter

Hi Supras, Toy-Mods, and Toyta groups,

This is my last call for orders on my Custom Designed Vf Line meter.
I will not bother the lists direct again.

Since the first announcement, I have 4 orders, and 3 potential orders. 
I will be ordering parts this week to fill the orders and to have a couple 
on hand.

(Could 1 person forward this to the MR2 list,I don't have that address, thanks!)

-Jeff M.
    ___          ___   ___   ____         '89 HKS Stage III equiv.
    \___  \   \  \__)  \__)  \___\  *Every thing else is just transportation.* 
     ___\  \___\  \     \  \  \   \ 		   Member:
      ____          ___   ___   ____    --- Supra Owners Group, Intl. ---
        \    \   \  \__)  \  )  \   \   See me at: http://www.supras.com
         \    \___\  \  \  \__)  \___\  E-Mail   : supras-info@supras.com


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Announcement of Custom, hand-made Vf meter:
See this and pic of the enclosure at: http://www.supras.com/m_offer2.html
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
         Toyotas, including the Supra MKII, MKIII, and the MKIV, have a TCCS 
	 output called Vf. I have personally designed and hand-manufactured a
	 meter for this Toyota Diagnostic line.
	 (This line output is described by Reg at the end of this document.)

	To install, you will need to:
         1: Tap into the Vf signal at the diagnostic box and carry it into the
         car for everyday/constant reading. See diagram at end.
         or
         2: You could just tap right at the diag. box for a quick idle check.
         Option 1 is much more informative!

	About the Vf Meter:
         -The device is a almost commercial-quality
           printed circuit board (no internal wires), with soldered
           components, LEDs, and output wire leads.
         -The enclosure looks like a slim small beeper.
         -The face side is the end, like most beepers have the readout.
         -The dimensions of the enclosure are: 2.2" x 2.8" x 0.71" .
         -The material of the box is textured plastic.
         -A tail of 3 wires come out the bottom of the enclosure: 12V, GND, Vf.
	 -The supply voltage can be 3v to 35v, no kidding!
         -The display face is clear, the LEDs shine thru the window.
         -The display is five colored leds. 
	   Only one led is illuminated at a time.
           The led array is: r-y-g-y-r colors. The definition of the LEDS is
           given by Reg in two notes at the bottom of the letter.
	 -There is a green *on* light.
	*-Can be used by other cool Toyota and Lexus vehicles with a Vf line.
	 -This is NOT an Oxygen Sensor Meter and a normal Ox Meter CAN NOT
	  perform the task of this meter. I have never seen this meter in any
	  marketplace, please tell me if you do!

  I made 9 first-design meters. They all have been sold to 6 
  supra group members. This ended up being a Beta test, that's why I
  designed rev2.

  This is not a business, just a project by myself. Designed and Manufactured
  by myself.
  Price: US$  50. in enclosure
	      40. without enclosure
  	      + Shipping, about $1 in USA, $1.50 in Canada.

 Regards,
         Jeff M., JMONTIGN@NSC.COM, SUPRAS-INFO@SUPRAS.COM
         Microelectronics Engineer, BSEE.

 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 From: riemerr@cadvision.com (Reg Riemer)
 You may want to look into using the Vf output from the diagnostic block. It
 outputs 5 stepped voltages up to 5 volts, telling you what the TCCS thinks
 the system is doing.
     -* spec *-   	-* most cars *-
 0.00 volts = Rich          0.0v
 1.25 volts = Good          1.1v
 2.50 volts = Best          2.19v
 3.75 volts = Good          3.5v
 5.00 volts = Lean          5.0v    
                                                             

 The voltage may not exactly represent the figures above, according to my
 TCCS Tech books. The point is that there are 5 steps to the system. My car
 always runs in the good to best areas on the rich side. I have seen it go
 to lean with cold startup and while decelerating with foot still on gas
 pedal. This system is telling you what the TCCS fuel trim system thinks the
 system is doing based on all measured conditions, not only on the O2 sensor
 reading. The fuel trim system has a number of factors governing its
 operation. The TCCS uses a look-up database in its memory to cross
 reference its measured information with what the current data is. This is
 why the idle speed on the 7M-GTE always moves around from time to time. IE:
 air on, lights on, car moving, etc. It is normal for the GTE engine to idle
 at about 1200 rpm when rolling into an intersection, then when at the
 light, resting to ~700rpm.
Reg
/
{SONIC} Supra Owners Network In Canada
FROM THE HOME OF THE SUPRA GTE
Information provided is given free of charge in good faith without prejudice.
Calgary Alberta Canada. T2Y-2Y1 Hm#403-254-0035
\
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-* Additional note from Reg *-

The Vf output has three different types of Vf output.

*OXYGEN SENSOR FEEDBACK MODE
*DIAGNOSTIC MODE
*LEARNED VALUE MODE

See below for details:
_____________
#1
Oxygen Sensor Feedback Mode.

*T1 and E1 Connected
*Idle contact point off
*Engine at 2500 rpm

Result of Ox sensor signal processing
5v.......Rich

or

0v........Lean
0v...........Open loop condition
_______________
#2
Diagnostic Mode

*T and E1 connected
*Idle contact point On
*Engine off

Results of Diagnosis
5v........Normal

0v........TCCS Trouble code stored, check 'Engin Light'.
________________
#3
Learned Value Mode

*T and E1 not connected
*Any Speed

Result of Air-Fuel ratio voltage feedback

0v...........Rich             *red*
1.25v.........Normal          *yellow*
2.5v...............Normal     *green*
3.75v.........Normal          *yellow*
5v...... ...Lean              *red*
			      On Light= another *Green* LED

Learned Value:

It is a fuel injection correction coefficient which tailors the standard
fuel injection duration to minor differences between engines due to
manufacturing tolerances, wear, and minor mixtures disturbances like small
vacuum leaks.

This coefficient is capable of altering the calculated injection {before Ox
correction} by as much as 20% to prevent Ox sensor correction from being
excessive.

If you encounter a driveability problem that sets no codes, this Vf voltage
feedback can be of some help. Especially code 25/26. {engine condition rich
or lean}

Note:
*Discard Vf reading when engine is cold.
*The Vf learned value tells you how hard the ECU is working to keep the
engine running properly.
*After loss of power to ECM, it will take a certain amount of time to
relearn, depending on the engine model and vehicle driving conditions.
*The ECM will learn faster if the input signals are stable 
*At high altitude operation, Vf can be 0v but it is considered to be normal
{lack of oxygen}
*Vf voltage reading may be different, depending on accuracy of voltmeter,
and connections. However, the number of steps 5 are still the same. {e.g.
1.10v instead of 1.25, 2.2v instead of 2.5v, 3.5v instead of 3.75v}
*Vf voltage can be "border line" also, flipping back and forth between 2 ranges.
_______________
Learned value mode fuel trim conditions

Vf	Condition	Fuel Compensation by ECU	Meter Display
------	---------	------------------------	-------------
0v     	Rich 		-(11-20)% 			Red
1.25v   Norm 		-(4-10)%  			Yellow
2.5v  	Norm    	+/-(3)%                         Green 
3.75v  	Norm 		+(4-10)%  			Yellow
5v      Lean    	+(11-20)% 			Red
							On = Green

Reg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Connection for Vf line:

                        Check Conn.      ECU
                        _________       _____
                       |         | VF1 |     |
                       |OO O O*--|-----+ VF  |
                       |OO O O   |     |     |
                       |OO O OO  |     |     |
                       |_________|     |     |
          ___________                  |     |
         |           |                 |     |
   +-----| O2 Sensor |-----------------+ OX1 |
   |     |___________|                 |     |
   |                                   |     |
   +-----------------------------------+ E1  |
                                       |     |
                                       |_____|
                              
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:20:33 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh)
Subject: Re: Car problems

>     What happened is as soon as I started my car it started to stutter
>really bad, and the RPM gauge started jumping from 2000 to 6000 and
>everywhere in between.

Definitely sound like a ignitor problem.  Happened to me last year in my
Celica.  Since the ignitor sends the electronic pulse to the RPM gauge,
that would be the place to start IMO.  The question is why did it just
happen at that moment?  Have you had any previous stuttering problems?  I
guess parts just go like that sometimes.

Hope your car gets well,

-frederick
'85 Celica GTS Convertible

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:13:14 -0800
From: Gerald San Agustin 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name: Gerald San Agustin
Location: Long Beach, California
Model: 1988 MR2 Supercharged (White)
Engine: originally a 4AGZE
Mods: Twincharger system (supercharger & turbo simultaneously)
	Electromotive TEC EFI, Garrett TO4E turbo by Turbonetics, 
	dual intercoolers, Venolia pistons, shot-peened rods, 
	heat treated and micropolished crank, HKS cams and sprockets,
	550cc injectors, TRD race springs, TRD bushings, 
	Tokico Illumina shocks, steel-braided brake lines, 
	Power Stop cross-drilled rotors, Autopower full roll cage,
	and many other details too numerous to type.
email: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com

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From: Richard Leong 
Subject: Water Temp. sensor problem?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:47:19 -0800 (PST)

Here is the problem.  It never happens when I first start up the car, 
ie. in the morning, or after a couple of hours from the last time I've 
used it.  It usually happens when the engine is warm, like it has been on 
the road for a good half hour or hour or so.  What happens is that the 
next time I start the car, when it's all warmed up, the RPM's would stay 
really low, between 300-700 RPMS, way below normal idle speed.  The 
normal idle speed is around 800-900 RPMs.  The engine would stutter and 
shake, and I'll be forced to gas it a bit.  The problem always subsides 
after 2-3 minutes, during which the RPMs would climb back up to normal 
idling speed.  I've talked to the Toyota guy and also a friend who's a 
mechanic.  They both seem to point out that the water temp. sensor is at 
fault, but it is not a major problem.  What do you guys think?  Wherever 
the problem is, would it be expensive, and should I replace it, or is it 
just a minor problem?  In my opinion, it is just annoying whenever it 
happens.  BTW, the fuel filter, injectors, and, charcoal canister hasn't 
been looked at in a while since I bought the car 2 years ago. I do 
however look at everything else.  Last tune-up was a year ago too.

Richard Leong  | Red with one-of-a-kind body-kit
'86 Celica GTS | Powerflow and custom exhaust
leongc@sfu.ca  | Still looking for the perfect suspension upgrade

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: Re: Tire Width
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:47:51 -0800 (PST)

 
>
> >If you take this to the extreme, a bike tire and a 255/60 car tire don't have
> >the same contact patch, or do they?
>
> If we ignore the fact that the bike tire would never FIT on a car...  :)  ...
> yes, they would be the same.  It's simple physics!  The car exerts a force on
> the wheel/tire, and that force is transmitted to the ground.  P = F/A, and the
> tire has some pressure in it (say 32 lbs/square inch) which is exerted on all
> sides of the inner of the tire.  If the downward force on the tire is only 32
> lbs, then there will be only 1 square inch of tire patch.  A 2800 lb car will
> exert roughly 700 lbs of force at each corner, resulting in 700/32 = 21 sq. in.
> contact patch (about 7 in. by 3 in.).  Thus if you have a 7 inch wide tire, 3
> inches of it actually contact the road.  If your tire is 3 inches wide, then
> 7 inches contact the road.
>
> Now, if we take our bike tire in this case of say 2 inches wide, the contact
> patch would need to be 10.5 inces long!  That's a tire with a BIG sidewall
> to allow that much contact patch!  :)
>

I agree that the physics are simple, but the fact remains that wider 
tires do have a greater contact patch in the real world.  This discusion 
is more theortical than actual applied physics, and I think that is where 
people are getting a bit confused.  In the lab (or controlled experiment), 
its okay to calculate contact patches of different tire widths using the 
same pressures as a basis of comparison.  However in the real world, its not 
the same.  Take for instance, putting 32 psi in a 3" wide bike tire.  In 
reality, people would call it a flat.  Same is true for wide tires. A 275 
tire has a greater contact patch than, say a 185 tire, for the simple 
reason than on the same car (same weight and force applied to ground), a 
wider tire requires less internal pressure to support the weight, thus 
increasing contact area.

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 09:48:53 PST
From: asano@rambus.com (Richard Asano)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Car prolems

Dave Aucott said:
>I had the same thing happen to my Nissan truck.  It turned out to be the fuel
>pump and fuel filter.  The filter was so plugged that I wasn't getting enough
>fuel to the carb, and it would stutter and buck like crazy as it would get
>fuel, not get fuel, etc.  Give it a try, the filter's only $2.

This certainly is a possibility.  If it is, be aware if it works for awhile
and the symptoms comes back after a short while it could be bad gas which
is plugging up your new filter yet again.

This happened to my '76 Celica.

Richard

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:55:54 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David 
Subject: Re: Tire Width

At 07:27 AM 3/20/96 EST, G.D. Aucott wrote:

>Now, if we take our bike tire in this case of say 2 inches wide, the
contact   >patch would need to be 10.5 inces long!  That's a tire with a BIG
sidewall     >to allow that much contact patch!  :)

Exactly!  Thats why people go to wider tires!  Not to mention that the
shorter sidewalls help the car handle better in most cases.
David Rees  -  drees@ucsd.edu
http://scilib.ucsd.edu/~drees/

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Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 13:44:43 -0600 (CST)
From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One)

Name     : Mark Rages
Location : Rolla, MO
Model    : 1986 Celica GT-S
Engine   : 3S-GELC
Mods     : None serious yet.
email    : mrages@umr.edu

There. Strictly as requested.
-- 
     "One might reasonably assume the employees of a comic strip would
        have some sense of humor, puny and plebian though it may be."
                   POGO's Porky Pine, 1948 (Walt Kelly)
***********************mrages@umr.edu (Mark Rages)****************************

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From: Gary Hong 
To: daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire Width
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 11:46:15 PST

>If we ignore the fact that the bike tire would never FIT on a car...  :)  ...  
>yes, they would be the same.  It's simple physics!  The car exerts a force on  
>the wheel/tire, and that force is transmitted to the ground.  P = F/A, and the 
>tire has some pressure in it (say 32 lbs/square inch) which is exerted on all  
>sides of the inner of the tire.  If the downward force on the tire is only 32  
>lbs, then there will be only 1 square inch of tire patch.  A 2800 lb car will  
>exert roughly 700 lbs of force at each corner, resulting in 700/32 = 21 sq. in.
>contact patch (about 7 in. by 3 in.).  Thus if you have a 7 inch wide tire, 3  
>inches of it actually contact the road.  If your tire is 3 inches wide, then   
>7 inches contact the road.                                                     
>                                                                               
>Now, if we take our bike tire in this case of say 2 inches wide, the contact   
>patch would need to be 10.5 inces long!  That's a tire with a BIG sidewall     
>to allow that much contact patch!  :)                                        

Dave,

Thanks for the explaination.  I do agree with what you and chris have said,
but the above were lingering questions I had (I question alot of things for
the sake of learning). 

I have two more question if you care to explain. 

	1. If the contact patch is the same, then what is the advantage of
	   larger tires on gripping? Let's not talk about how it affects
	   gearing... Just the grip from tire to ground.  Why not put
	   hundai sized tire on a corvette or supra TT if you get the same
	   surface or contact area to the ground?

	2. Also P=F/A, does the A in this equation really stand for contact
	   patch area? 

Gary

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:56:04 -0500 (EST)
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Name: Aly AbulKheir
Subject: me/mine/mods revised
Location: New Paltz, New York
Model: 1985 MR2 NA (Super Red II)
Engine: 4AGE
Mods Done:-K&N FilterCharger 
          -Tokico Illumina Shocks
	  -Tornado air flow piece between the AFM and TVIS
	  -Sound System consisting of Yamaha, a/d/s/, MB Quart,
	   Sony, and Infinity components (clean and clear, not bassy).
	  -Yokohama AVS Intermediate, A378, and A008RSII tires
           185/60 14
	  -Stock wheels for street, Panasport Pro Rally for AutoX
	   Would like to get Freedom Design 7-spoke wheels for street also
	   either in 14 or 15 inch.
Mods Planned for this summer after front end repair:
	  -Select Sales PowerMax Air Filter with G. Aucott Intake Mod
	  -TRD Header (already purchased)
	  -MSD Ignition Amp and Coil
          -Magnecor Ignition wires from Chris Myer
        Approximately 25hp increase expected from these mods.  		
          -TRD Bushings from Chris Myer (already purchased)
	  -Suspension Techniques Anti-Sway Bars (already purchased)
          -Eibach Progressive Rate Springs
          -Sarizer Steering Kit from Sarizer in NJ (said to tighten up
           steering system).
Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

I'm still pondering whether an HKS or Trust exhaust muffler will really make
a difference after the mods I have planned above.  It just doesn't seem
worth the money if it's only going to make a small difference.  I'm just
wondering if the stock muffler which is brand new is going to create a real
restriction on the mods I've planned above.  Steve at Select Sales mentioned
that the real restriction in the '85 MR2 exhaust system is in the flex pipe
between the exhaust manifold and the cat, and that this is all eliminated
with the TRD header.  Any thoughts on this are very welcome.

I'm also wondering whether I NEED to upgrade my injectors after the engine
mods planned above.  Anybody?

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 12:06:26 -0800 (PST)

 
> Name: Gerald San Agustin
> Location: Long Beach, California
> Model: 1988 MR2 Supercharged (White)
> Engine: originally a 4AGZE
> Mods: Twincharger system (supercharger & turbo simultaneously)
> 	Electromotive TEC EFI, Garrett TO4E turbo by Turbonetics, 
> 	dual intercoolers, Venolia pistons, shot-peened rods, 
> 	heat treated and micropolished crank, HKS cams and sprockets,
> 	550cc injectors, TRD race springs, TRD bushings, 
> 	Tokico Illumina shocks, steel-braided brake lines, 
> 	Power Stop cross-drilled rotors, Autopower full roll cage,
> 	and many other details too numerous to type.
> email: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com
> 

Wow.....

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 15:26:05 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire Width

                                                                                
This has been discussed at length, and I felt that I should add to it.          
                                                                                
As has been pointed out, the equation P=F/A means that, FOR A GIVEN             
PRESSURE, the contact area of the tire cannot change, regardless of             
the tire size.  This entire argument is based on keeping the same tire          
pressure, as a change in pressure will affect the contact area of THE SAME      
tire.  Lowering your pressure will result in a larger contact area, but         
at the expense of lateral stiffness.                                            
                                                                                
So where do the gains in using a 225/50 tire instead of a 185/70 come from?     
While the AREA of the contact patch will remain constant, the SHAPE will        
be altered considerably.  The 225/50 contact patch is short and wide, the       
185/70 patch is long and thin.  The short/wide patch can cope with side         
loads better than the long/thin one.  Also, because each element of rubber      
will be contacting the road for a shorter time on the 225/50, it will           
dissipate heat better, aiding in grip.  Also note that we have ignored          
the effects of the shorter, stiffer, 50-series sidewall.                        
                                                                                
As a side note on pressure, keep in mind that manufacturer's suggested          
pressures are based on even wear and a comfortable ride.  For best grip,        
you must inflate your tires to around 40psi.  This varies for each car,         
but the grip will increase with pressure until about 45 psi, at which point     
it begins to fall off slowly.  This is why we autocrossers run such high        
pressures at the event.  High pressure gives better lateral stiffness and       
more controlled sliding at the limit.  However, the ride is bone jarring,       
and you'd wear the middles out of the tires.  (Don't believe me?  There         
are many books on the subject, the most famous of which is titled something     
like "How to make your car Handle."  It has a Porsche on the cover and should   
be available in bookstores or Classic Motorbooks.  It includes graphs of        
grip vs. pressure.)  By varying the pressure front to rear, you can fine-tune   
your handling.  I learned what works well with my MK I at the track for         
just the right amount of oversteer.                                             
                                                                                
I hope I shed some light on this topic.                                         
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2                                                                        
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 15:28:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Buhr 
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: Gerald San Agustin 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

On Wed, 20 Mar 1996, Gerald San Agustin wrote:

> Name: Gerald San Agustin
> Location: Long Beach, California
> Model: 1988 MR2 Supercharged (White)
> Engine: originally a 4AGZE
> Mods: Twincharger system (supercharger & turbo simultaneously)
> 	Electromotive TEC EFI, Garrett TO4E turbo by Turbonetics, 
> 	dual intercoolers, Venolia pistons, shot-peened rods, 
> 	heat treated and micropolished crank, HKS cams and sprockets,
> 	550cc injectors, TRD race springs, TRD bushings, 
> 	Tokico Illumina shocks, steel-braided brake lines, 
> 	Power Stop cross-drilled rotors, Autopower full roll cage,
> 	and many other details too numerous to type.
> email: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com

    Wow!  What a set-up!  What do you do with this car?  What kind of 
racing?  Ever had it out to a quarter-mile drag strip?

Aaron B.

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: MK1:Eibachs&205/50 15's
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 12:34:26 -0800 (PST)

Forwarded message:
> From: RBC199@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 22:23:44 -0500
> To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Subject: MK1:Eibachs&205/50 15's
> 
> In a message dated 96-03-19 14:13:53 EST, Micky wrote:
> 
> > Mods: HKS oversized pulley, TRD Headers, Trust Exhaust w/ stainless Borla
> >> > finned tips, Adjustable Tokico Illumina Shocks, Eibach Pro springs, 15"
> >> > BBS Modas w/ Pirelli 205-50 P-Zeros.
> 
> I just bought Illuminas and Eibach Pro's, but haven't installed them yet.
> I've got a set of  15x7 Borbet rims with 205/50 A509's. Have you experienced
> any tire rubbing with the Eibachs? How's the car on rougher pavement? 
> 
> Bruce   
> '89 MR2 N/A   113K
> 

There is still some space left that I am considering putting on 215s as 
my tires are starting to get bald.  Looking around for some 215/45 for 
15" rims, but dont't know who makes them.  I'm not sure what tire/wheel 
combination you're using now, but (for good or bad) you will definitely 
feel more of everything from your steering wheel.  As the MKIs have no power 
steering, the increase weight and grip of the wider tires/wheels make 
holding the car straight on bad pavement significantly more pronounced 
and requires more effort in correcting.  My car has a tendency to follow 
grooves in the road that I can't see.  Setting the shocks on the lightest 
setting doesn't help smooth out the ride any.  Once you get use to it 
though, the "autotracking" feature of the setup feels pretty good esp. on 
groomed tight curves.

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 13:45:06 -0700 (MST)
From: Lance Heinrich 
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: aly abulkheir 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

>           -Sarizer Steering Kit from Sarizer in NJ (said to tighten up
>            steering system).
> Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

Note that this kit will make your car illegal in some classifications for 
autox, since it increases the amount of metal in relation to 
rubber/polyurethane that the bushing being replaced has, as well as 
changing the type of bushing.  
ie. purely rubber bushing (I don't know what kind you would call them 
though) is replaced with an aluminum and nylon ball/socket style 
bushing.  Check your rule-book on both counts, just to be sure.

Lance.
      ---------------------------------------------------------------
      | Lance Heinrich        @       Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
      | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
      |
      | 1991 MR2 Turbo
      | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 23:49:24 +0200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: Re: Tire Width

>To: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
>From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
>Subject: Re: Tire Width
>
>Hi all,
>
>Just to add my thoughts too
>
>The wider the tire the more friction on the road due to a larger area
contacting...short of deflated tires.... in this respect one gets more power
down before spinning the wheels...yet the smaller the pressure (same weight
larger area of contact) on the street which means that after a maximum width
you get the opposite results...easy skidding. It looks like bell
curve...bad....good....bad. One has to find the good width and stay in it.
>>
>
Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D.
ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS
Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 08:48:51 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

On behalf of James - majordomo doesn't like the unsuXXXribe word in the 
first few lines :)

  Paul.

From: "James O'Brien" 
Message-Id: <199603200321.AA03567@fog.gis.cs.curtin.edu.au>
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:21:07 +0800 (WST)
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL24]
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

G'day everyone,

	I was on this list last year, but all university accounts are suspended over our
summer, so I had to unsubscribe... but now I've gotten my account back, here are my details

Name     : James O'Brien
Location : Perth Western Australia
Model    : 1979 T-18 (TE-72 chassis, 2dr hatch with 3-TC)
Engine   : 3T-C 1770cc
Mods     : Swapped the 3T-C for a 4A-GE from an '88 Japanese Corona, changed the gearbox
	   to the 88 Corona one, Finer filter air filter, Corona brake booster.
Future   : Four wheel discs, aircon, SAAS or Recaro seats, some good quality wheels and a nice	   new coat of paint.
email    : obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au  

P.S If anyone is in Perth on this list and wants a 3T-C and gearbox I've still got it...

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: Tire Width
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 15:21:22 -0800 (PST)

Forwarded message:
> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 15:26:05 EST
> From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Subject: Tire Width
>
>
> This has been discussed at length, and I felt that I should add to it.
>
> As has been pointed out, the equation P=F/A means that, FOR A GIVEN
> PRESSURE, the contact area of the tire cannot change, regardless of
> the tire size.  This entire argument is based on keeping the same tire
> pressure, as a change in pressure will affect the contact area of THE SAME
> tire.  Lowering your pressure will result in a larger contact area, but
> at the expense of lateral stiffness.
>
> So where do the gains in using a 225/50 tire instead of a 185/70 come from?
> While the AREA of the contact patch will remain constant, the SHAPE will
> be altered considerably.  The 225/50 contact patch is short and wide, the
> 185/70 patch is long and thin.  The short/wide patch can cope with side
> loads better than the long/thin one.  Also, because each element of rubber
> will be contacting the road for a shorter time on the 225/50, it will
> dissipate heat better, aiding in grip.  Also note that we have ignored
> the effects of the shorter, stiffer, 50-series sidewall.
>
> As a side note on pressure, keep in mind that manufacturer's suggested
> pressures are based on even wear and a comfortable ride.  For best grip,
> you must inflate your tires to around 40psi.  This varies for each car,
> but the grip will increase with pressure until about 45 psi, at which point
> it begins to fall off slowly.  This is why we autocrossers run such high
> pressures at the event.  High pressure gives better lateral stiffness and
> more controlled sliding at the limit.  However, the ride is bone jarring,
> and you'd wear the middles out of the tires.  (Don't believe me?  There
> are many books on the subject, the most famous of which is titled something
> like "How to make your car Handle."  It has a Porsche on the cover and should
> be available in bookstores or Classic Motorbooks.  It includes graphs of
> grip vs. pressure.)  By varying the pressure front to rear, you can fine-tune
> your handling.  I learned what works well with my MK I at the track for
> just the right amount of oversteer.
>
> I hope I shed some light on this topic.
>
> Christopher T. Berchin
> 1988 MR2
> Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
>

This is a pretty interesting discussion, as we are from different racing 
schools of thought.  

The reason for using low profile tires, such as the 225/50 as compared to 
the 185/70 is due primarily to side wall height and the lower pressures 
that you can run with.  Under maximum cornering, you try your best to 
limit sidewall flexing.  Too much side wall flexing will not only upset 
car balance, but also increases the chance of damage to the tires and 
increase the risk of tire separation from the rim.  Using high profile 
tires, this can only be accomplished with high pressures so that the 
tires remain rigid.  From the equation P=F/A, force is a constant.  The 
only two variables are pressure and surface area.  Increasing pressure 
reduces the surface area (or contact patch) of the tire.  Thus in using 
high profile tires, to maintain rigidity, you have to sacrifice surface 
area.
Low profile tires ont the other hand, already have a rigid side wall due 
to their aspect with the tread width.  For an equivalent amount of side 
wall flexing as compared to a high profile tire, lower tire pressures can 
be used.  From the above equation, this increases the contact patch, and 
thus the gripping ability of the tires.
On the track, I DO want my tires to heat up.  Hot tires are very grippy, 
so the heat dissapation aspects of wide performance tires are irrelevant.
What I do worry about is tire overpressure with can cause my tires to 
burst.  Before going on track, I set my cold tire pressure to be about 31 
psi (I am assuming that the 40 psi you mention is cold (or cool) tire 
pressure).  After 5-6 hot laps, my hot tire pressure readings are about 
46-50 psi.  If I were to set it at 40 psi, my tires would blow, or lose 
so much grip due to overpressure that I'd have to slow down or risk running 
off the track.

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2
e-mail:micky@orion.sfsu.edu

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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 11:39:37 +1100
From: Peter Mejak 

Subject: Advertisement, Stuff for Sale

Hello All,

Well, some of you may know that my '75 KE30 Corolla has been undergoing a
Body Rebuild for nearly the last 18 months.  It's finally back on the road,
& as a result, I have a few items for sale (sorry if it's a WOB) :-

3 x SAAS "Budget Recliner" Seats, Black Velour, Tilt-Forward mechanism
	2 are in VGC (especially the passenger seat, hardly used)
	1 is in GC (covering is good but backrest has a frame twisted approx.
	20 - 30 deg off centre)
	Covering is good for all seats -- not holed or worn thru

Current Retail Price : $500 each or $900 pr
Selling Price : $700 (Neg)

1 x SAAS "Alan Grice" Black Leather Steering Wheel, with Hub adapter to suit.
	This hub fits KE30 to KE55, plus other Toyota's of the same vintage.
	Wheel & Hub in EC.

Current Retail Price : $280
Selling Price : $190 (Neg)

Reason for selling the above items : having just spent AUS$6,000 (& the rest!)
on the body, I now want to upgrade the rest of the car.  I've put down what I
consider to be fair prices, but will consider offers.  Purchaser pays shipping
within Aust.  I can arrange to supply a JPG of the items if so desired.

Cheers,

Peter.

======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 02:16:57 +0100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: christof@server.net4you.co.at (Chris Orasch)
Subject: Lighter Flywheel

  Hi all!!

Does anybody have any experience with a lighter flywheel on the 91MR2 with
3S-GE engine? Does it improve acceleration? Do you recommend using one?

 Any ideas are welcome!

  ---Chris
  christof@net4you.co.at

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From: Gary Hong 
To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire Width
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 17:28:49 PST

>>	1. If the contact patch is the same, then what is the advantage of
>>	   larger tires on gripping? Let's not talk about how it affects
>>	   gearing... Just the grip from tire to ground.  Why not put
>>	   hundai sized tire on a corvette or supra TT if you get the same
>>	   surface or contact area to the ground?
>>
>>	2. Also P=F/A, does the A in this equation really stand for contact
>>	   patch area? 
>>
>>Gary
>
>The truth is, that P=F/A doesn't really get to apply in real life.  The
>hundai sized tire does have a much smaller contact patch than the normal
>tires on a vette or supra.  Another thing to take into consideration is the
>considerable amount of deforming which goes on with such a small tire
>channelling all that energy.

I didn't think it applies in real life.  What is ideal in this world? :) Not
much.  Did you all know that a typical gas engine is only 25-30% efficient?
The rest goes into heat energy.

Gary

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From: ToySup@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 22:09:57 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Howdys, part 2

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Content-ID: <0_29563_827377712@emout07.mail.aol.com.247589>
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Whoops. forgot to attach photo--ran out of staples.

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b95w8ZCCeEd/xeXHT21jR+6OddfxUXVsAjafNdG8YPd3w0QbB0+NSCkih3efNNXzTfZ2RoQT
8Vs2jp3Yjy5QD9h3e3aT5Siggdw5Lq7Ihog+OhUWYdUbrG73nUuPIj93b9Far/sJOog/NQ24
n5riPKJSRQ7hoGqvwQzXGrQR4K65tPZ/4FRLWQYcEkEBp73juRHfunrybd490690V7KY1eB5
QVBrKNwizuOxR18UGn//2Q==

--PART.BOUNDARY.0.29563.emout07.mail.aol.com.827377712--

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From: RamziM2@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 22:13:30 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: tire width and fuel

I was thinking of putting 205/50-15 on the back and 195/50-15 on the fronts
of my MK1 MR2 and I know that the 205's would be slightly higher.  Does
anyone think this would be bad, and will it upset suspension geometry and
handling?

Also, I'm sure this has bean brought up before, but does the MK1 sense the
octane level of the fuel?  If it doesn't I think I'll save the extra$$ and
drop down to 89 octane.

Ramzi
86 MR2

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From: ToySup@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 22:30:50 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Howdys and such...

Name's Gene Chang, recent subscriber to the list. Here's some background:

'89 Toy Supra Turbo Sport Roof (Targa)
Stock 7MGTE motor, 2nd owner 70K Mi.

As far as I can tell, its the only GenII turbo in the SW Mini-Apple 'burbs.
(kinda lonely at the owner's group...)

Only mods so far are the Bridgestone Blizzak Snows (I DO live in
Minneapolis!) 

On the way: HKS Catalog (Ordered)
                  Pioneer FH-P85 Double-DIN AM/FM/CD/Cassette (Back-ordered)
                  --This puppy does EVERYTHING, and for the low, low price of
$1400 MSRP.

Take a gander at my web page, at http://members.aol.com/toysup/cars.htm

Let me know what you think (about this mail, my car, website, whatever):
e-mail me at GTChang@AOL.com, or
ToySup@AOL.com

Regards,

-Gene 'anyone-wanna-cruise-to-montana-and see-how-fast-we-can-go' Chang

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 15:16:01 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Tire Width

Hiya all,
         Just thought I'd throw some (more) confusion on the matter. ;) My
racing car weighs 1090 lbs with me in it, the front tyres are 195/30-13
(equivelant), the rear tyres are 235/40-13 (equivelant). To get the best
grip, I use 10.5 psi (cold) in the front, and 11 psi in the back (cold). The
pressures come up about 2 psi when they're hot. If I use just 1 psi more
(front & back), then the grip is slightly reduced, but if I use slightly
less pressure, then the grip is also reduced from the tyres 'rolling' off
the rims. (front wheels are 13x8, rears are 13x11")
Even with this much rubber on the road, off the start line the car will
quite happily spin the wheels up to about 60 mph!

As someone said in an earlier mailing, the size of the sidewalls of the tyre
are important in controlling the tyres movement. The smaller (to a certain
degree) the sidewall, then the better the tread of the tyre is controlled to
hold itself flat on the road. A fair amount of tyre pressure (in a road
tyre) helps too. I have 205/50-15's on my AE-86, and I never use less than
about 35 psi, even on the road.

With tyres that have big sidewall, (generally high-profile ones, like
185/70, etc) unless you have rather high pressures in them they tend to roll
off the rims under high cornering load. As an example, a class of racing car
here in Aus that uses 185/70-13's uses about 48 psi cold! The main problem
with big sidewall tyres is the sidewall flex as cornering load changes - if
the tyre is flexing even a small amount, it will seem like the car is not
responding accurately to your imputs and therefore feels "greasy" on the
road. With a small sidewall, the tyre does not move around in relation to
the wheels, and so what the road (and car) is doing is transmitted to the
driver far more accurately, resulting in greater confidence in the car's
(and your own ... :) ability.

It doesn't matter if you are using a high or low profile tyes that have
identical grip - the one that will win is the car that's easiest to control.

I also recieved this mail, which I'll try to answer in the general mail.

>Sorry, Bill, but being a little sluggish this morning I _don't_ get the idea.
>Can you please define and compare ROADHOLDING and HANDLING for those of us
>who aren't mechanics?

Ok, picture two otherwise identical cars - one (car R) has great ROADHOLDING
(good cornering power, but poor handling), and the other (car H) has great
HANDLING. (good controlability, but poor roadholding)

Car R & H are driving down the road to the pub to get some beer, so they are
in a huge rush. The road they are on varies quite a bit, because the city
council are a tight-arse pack of bastards that don't spend any money on the
roads like they should. (completely theoretical, this is ......) The first
half of the road is smooth and has beautiful flowing corners, but
unfortunately other half has loose gravel on the surface because of council
spending cut-backs. (converted to expanding their bulging wallets) 
"Green" say the traffic lights, and car R & H speed off with hard reving
twin cams. For the first half, car R pulls away, because even though the
driver of car R is fighting understeer & oversteer through the corners, it
can take the corners at fairly high speed and exploit its greater grip on
the good surface. (The driver of car R had no money left for suspension afer
spending it on wheels & tyres, so he's stuck with the original sagging
springs & shockies.) Car H is left behind, because although the car is not
understeering or oversteering through the corners, it can't seem to go much
faster in the corners without the tyres squealing and losing grip. (The
driver of car H had no money left for tyres afer spending it on the
suspension, so he's stuck with retreaded snow tyes that have been left out
in the sun for 20 years or so and are a bit vulcanised. Poor sod.) 
Halfway point. The driver of car R is some distance ahead, and can see the
'Duff' brewery in the distance. He can also see that the road just up ahead
turns to loose gravel, (and signs saying "Slow Down, Moron") and in fact
it's started to rain quite hard as well. (aw, what the heck, why not. :)
The driver of car R slows down a bit, but is still surprised when his car
nearly leaves the road from understeering, and his face becomes even more
ugly when after correcting for the understeer the car swaps ends from
terminal oversteer. Quickly he gets car R pointing in the right direction,
still ahead of car H, which is now on the gravel as well. The driver of car
H also sees the gravel and slows, but quickly realises that he can go around
the gravel corners nearly as quickly as he could when he was on the tarred road.
After a short while, car H has caught up to the ill-handling car R, which is
all going all over the road like a mad woman's shit. The driver of car H
waits until the driver of car R has applied about 15 turns of opposite-lock
to correct a slide, then simply slips around the outside of car R.
The driver of car R then unfortunately loses it big time and takes them both
over the edge of the cliff.
Both cars fortuitously land safely in the car park of "Duff Beer", and both
drivers set out on foot for the pub. The driver of car R has much bigger
muscles because he's had to wrestle with the wheel of his car quite a bit,
so in the race to he pub he craps on the smarter but whimpier driver of car H.
I believe that this is the way the universe works. ;)

The point of the story is this, grasshopper - 
1. A car with good suspension will be far more pleasant to drive than 'Car R'. 
2. A car with excellent handling AND good tyres to give roadholding
(cornering power) will be almost unbeatable. 
3. Don't drink and drive, you might spill some.

>This thread is confusing me, since I would assume that wider tires give
>better "stick" under load.  If this is not true, why (for example) is it
>harder to spin wider tires if starting from a dead stop? 

Going in a straight line hasn't got much to do with handling, eg, a Funny
Car drag racer goes well in a straght line, but that is all - they can't
turn at all. With racing rubber (and to a lesser degree road rubber), if you
have too much on the road, then the tyres will not reach working temperature
and not stick properly.
With regard to spinning wheels, it's back to the contact patch theory. Also,
as a general rule, the bigger the tyre, the softer the compound, so you get
more grip than a narrow tyre anyway.

The B Man.

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 15:17:57 +1100
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Cam timing

Hiya all,

>Hi all,
>         A quick question for performance gurus. If both cams on a 
>twin cam motor are advanced how much top end would the motor 
>lose and how much would be gained at low to mid range rpms.
>=====================================================
>
>Gregory Chan     E-mail: GChan@Compserv.SenecaC.On.Ca

I've got a copy of the 'Desktop Dyno' program from Chris Myer, and it seems
to be extremely good. You can modify things like cam timing to almost any
figure you like, so if you want to see what changes you'll get if you move
the cam 2 deg or so, then it's easy to do. I tried it with my 4AGE and the
engine now performs much as the program predicted. (I'll be doing a full
review in the near future)
But to answer Gregs' question - You can make very noticable improvements
with only 2 or 3 degree change, so it's very important to know what you
want. I moved both my cams 2 deg to give about 10% more bottom end, but as a
trade-off I lose power above 7000 rpm. In a 4AGE with veriered cams it's
very easy to move the cams a couple of degrees, so if you have the time go
ahead and try it. (Just make sure that the valves don't hit each other or
the pistons, and make VERY sure you know where the cam timing started from
so you can reset it back to normal)

The B Man.

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From: RBC199@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 23:29:31 -0500
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1:Eibachs&205/50 15's

In a message dated 96-03-20 22:44:52 EST, you write:

>As the MKIs have no power 
>steering, the increase weight and grip of the wider tires/wheels make 
>holding the car straight on bad pavement significantly more pronounced 
>and requires more effort in correcting.  My car has a tendency to follow 
>grooves in the road that I can't see.  Set

Yeah, this is pretty obvious on my MK1. It took a few miles, but I'm used to
it. Some of the roads here in NYC suck, and the car can be a handful on a
rainy day. Cornering is great on a smooth road. Lemme know if you have any
success with a 215/50. 

Bruce 
'89 MR2  113K
'85 MR2  139K

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 23:50:05 -0500
From: Mark Sink 
To: RamziM2@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: tire width and fuel

RamziM2@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I was thinking of putting 205/50-15 on the back and 195/50-15 on the fronts
> of my MK1 MR2 and I know that the 205's would be slightly higher.  Does
> anyone think this would be bad, and will it upset suspension geometry and
> handling?

I would not do this.  Unless you've done some supension work, and your car is
oversteering too much, don't.  If you haven't done any work, then it probably
understeers now, and 205's out back would just make it worse.  I'm not saying
that car would handle worse, going from 185 to 195 up front should make things
better if anything, put your front will now lose traction even MORE before the
rear ever does.  Stick with one size, the car will have more NEUTRAL handling,
and that's what you want.  I've added majot suspension components from TRD, including
a rear anti-sway bar, and I still would not butter bigger rubber out back. i don't
think you should either.

> 
> Also, I'm sure this has bean brought up before, but does the MK1 sense the
> octane level of the fuel?  If it doesn't I think I'll save the extra$$ and
> drop down to 89 octane.

I know of NO car that "sense" what type of fuel you have put in it. The closest
thing to that is a switch on the Supercharged MR2 that allows you to TELL the car
what type of fuel you are running.  I think what you really want to know is does
it require 92+ Octane.  I believe the manual calls for 87.  Unless you get knocking/
pinging.. you don't need anything higher.  If you want to use 89 octance, it won't
hurt, but it might not help either.  Remember octane INHIBITS detonation, it does NOT
give you a "BIGGER" bang.

> 
> Ramzi
> 86 MR2

Mark Sink
'87 MR2
'93 Turbo

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 23:36:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Car problems
To: fmarsh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Frederick Marsh),

On Wed, 20 Mar 1996, fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) wrote:

>Definitely sound like a ignitor problem.  Happened to me last year in my
>Celica.  Since the ignitor sends the electronic pulse to the RPM gauge,
>that would be the place to start IMO.  The question is why did it just
>happen at that moment?  Have you had any previous stuttering problems?  I
>guess parts just go like that sometimes.

I burned my distibutor system rather instantaneously while running high boost on 
a cold engine.  Never worked right again until I replaced it.

Kip Anderson
91 MR2 Turbo
kca@interserv.com
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 23:36:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Car problems
To: Tazitup@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

On Tue, 19 Mar 1996, Tazitup@aol.com wrote:

>     I have a 87 MR2 and it is misbehaving. Bad car!
>My problem happened right after I filled the gas tank all the way up. So of
>course my first opinion is bad gas(No not me!) 

- snip -

> I ran the
>computer test and it said code 3(Bad Ignition Signal) and code 10(Bad Starter
>Signal).  

- snip -

>And the
>Distributor cap and Rotors could be the problem. Which I took that off to
>look at it and it looked clean. But as soon as I put the distributor cap back
>on it started to act better.That was two days ago, and I have not driven my
>car much. Today it stalled on me once, it is not running as bad as it was but
>it is starting to run bad again. It feelslike it is trying to withhold power.

If the distributor cap and rotor is more than a year old, save yourself some 
troubleshooting time and replace them.  They are quite inexpensive, and based on 
my past experience this year, could very well be the cause of the problem.

Wires older than 3 years should also be suspect - replace them!

Check your plugs as well.

I ended up spending $150 in labor to find out that the problem with my car was 
due to worn/bad wires and distributor.  My car is only five years old.

Replacing everything made the problem vanish.

Kip Anderson
91 MR2 Turbo
kca@interserv.com
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 02:31:48 -0800
From: Gerald San Agustin 
To: Aaron Buhr 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods

>> Name: Gerald San Agustin
>> Location: Long Beach, California
>> Model: 1988 MR2 Supercharged (White)
>> Engine: originally a 4AGZE
>> Mods: Twincharger system (supercharger & turbo simultaneously)
>>       Electromotive TEC EFI, Garrett TO4E turbo by Turbonetics,
>>       dual intercoolers, Venolia pistons, shot-peened rods,
>>       heat treated and micropolished crank, HKS cams and sprockets,
>>       550cc injectors, TRD race springs, TRD bushings,
>>       Tokico Illumina shocks, steel-braided brake lines,
>>       Power Stop cross-drilled rotors, Autopower full roll cage,
>>       and many other details too numerous to type.
>> email: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com
>>
>
>    Wow!  What a set-up!  What do you do with this car?  What kind of
>racing?  Ever had it out to a quarter-mile drag strip?
>
>Aaron B.

well, the car is not a dialy driver, but I do take to to as many drag racing events as I can, 
mostly Battle of the Imports.  Best time at Carlsbad Raceway in San Diego - 12.4 @ 112 mph on 
street tires.... no nitrous

Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 02:51:56 -0800
From: Gerald San Agustin 
To: Toyota Modifications server 
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods

> Name: Gerald San Agustin
> Location: Long Beach, California
> Model: 1988 MR2 Supercharged (White)
> Engine: originally a 4AGZE
> Mods: Twincharger system (supercharger & turbo simultaneously)
>       Electromotive TEC EFI, Garrett TO4E turbo by Turbonetics,
>       dual intercoolers, Venolia pistons, shot-peened rods,
>       heat treated and micropolished crank, HKS cams and sprockets,
>       550cc injectors, TRD race springs, TRD bushings,
>       Tokico Illumina shocks, steel-braided brake lines,
>       Power Stop cross-drilled rotors, Autopower full roll cage,
>       and many other details too numerous to type.
> email: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com
>

BTW.... my car is featured in this months issue of Sport Compact Car magazine.  

Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 07:47:48 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire width

                                                                                
Ramzi writes:                                                                   
                                                                                
> I was thinking of putting 205/50-15 on the back and 195/50-15 on the fronts   
of my MK1 MR2 and I know that the 205's would be slightly higher.  Does         
anyone think this would be bad, and will it upset suspension geometry and       
handling?                                                                       
                                                                                
Your 1986 has a different rear end than mine, but upsizing the rear will        
increase your understeer.  (The rear now has an increased grip level, but       
the front remains the same.  Thus, the front will break loose much sooner       
than the rear.)  You may like the effect.  I hated it on my 1988 (the guy       
who had my car before me put 195's on the back and 185's on the front).         
I can't say how it'll effect geometry, but as I said the balance will be        
more toward understeer.                                                         
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
                                                                                
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 07:56:31 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Octane

                                                                                
Mark Sink writes:                                                               
                                                                                
> I know of NO car that "sense" what type of fuel you have put in it. The close 
thing to that is a switch on the Supercharged MR2 that allows you to TELL the   
car                                                                             
                                                                                
There are quite a few cars that have a sensor to adjust for fuel.  My 1994      
Taurus SHO had one - the car was premium fuel recommended, not required.        
Thus, if you used less than the 91 octane the engine wanted, there was          
a sensor that would take out some of your spark advance to prevent detonation   
and engine damage.  I'm sure there are many cars out there with this            
feature nowadays.  It is not an octane sensor per se, but there is some         
electronic doo dad that senses when you don't have enough octane.  Anyone       
have more info?                                                                 
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
                                                                                
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 08:09:44 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire width again

                                                                                
Yes, I'm going to beat on this subject some more.  I've gotten some mail        
to indicate that there is some confusion as to the constants you must           
hold in this subject.                                                           
                                                                                
1) Car weight (the F in P=F/A) must be held constant.  Obviously, a 3400lb      
Corvette with 315/35-18 tires is going to have a larger contact patch than      
a 2000lb Hyundai Accent with 155/75-13 tires.  You can't compare apples to      
oranges.  Either put the 315's on the Hyundai or put the 155's on the Vette.    
Thus, the entire discussion means this: "My 1988 MR2 came with 185/60-14 tires. 
If I were to put 205/50-15 tires on, what would happen?"  Answer: contact       
patch AREA remains the same, but the shape of the patch has changed.  Again,    
this assumes that you haven't changed the weight of the car.                    
                                                                                
2) People asked about using lower pressures in the lower aspect-ratio tires.    
Here's a tip that autocrossers use: chalk your tires on the outermost tread     
bar, and wrap the chalk over onto the sidewall.  This will show you             
if you are rolling the sidewalls over too far, hurting grip.  This is           
how I came to use 42psi front, 38psi rear on my 1988 MR2 during autocross       
events.  Those are cold pressures.  Again, this will only show you when         
each tire is sufficiently inflated to keep from rolling over too far.  You      
may still not like the balance of the car - at that point you would then        
change your pressures to fine tune the balance by sacrificing some grip.        
                                                                                
Just fueling the fire...  :)                                                    
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2                                                                        
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 08:31:21 EST
From: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire Width

                                                                                
Micky writes:                                                                   
                                                                                
> This is a pretty interesting discussion, as we are from different racing      
schools of thought.                                                             
                                                                                
Actually, I don't think we're all that different.  I was simply illustrating    
that to gain grip without changing tires, increase the pressure.  However,      
I'm with you in that I would upgrade my tires to something wide and low.        
The stiffer sidewall means you MAY be able to reduce pressure and still not     
roll the sidewalls over.  However, some racing classes prohibit this kind       
of size change.  There are also "street tire" classes in autocross that         
prevent you from running massive gumballs.                                      
                                                                                
Also, in P=F/A, while P and A are variable, the only one you can control is     
P.  When you alter P, A will shift accordingly.  Thus, F is constant (vehicle   
weight), P is under your control, and A is dependent on P.                      
                                                                                
Christopher T. Berchin                                                          
1988 MR2                                                                        
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com                                              

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 07:34:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Mike Kronvold 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Howdys and such...

On Wed, 20 Mar 1996 ToySup@aol.com wrote:
> Name's Gene Chang, recent subscriber to the list. Here's some background:
> '89 Toy Supra Turbo Sport Roof (Targa)
> Stock 7MGTE motor, 2nd owner 70K Mi.
> As far as I can tell, its the only GenII turbo in the SW Mini-Apple 'burbs.
> (kinda lonely at the owner's group...)
   
     the '86 1/2 through 92' Supras are the 3rd generation of supra if
   you don't include the grandmother of all supras the 2000GT from the late
   '60s (these things are worth $250,000, anyone got one? *grin*)

> Only mods so far are the Bridgestone Blizzak Snows (I DO live in
> Minneapolis!) 

     How do you like these?  Reviews I've read all rant and rave about
   them.  What did you have on before the Blizzaks?

   - Mike
--
Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering
(708) 543-9191    424 Interstate Road  Addison, Illinois  60101  USA
Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation............
          Bad Command or Filename.  Go stand in the corner.

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 08:42:27 PST

 
> Name: Gerald San Agustin
> Location: Long Beach, California
> Model: 1988 MR2 Supercharged (White)
> Engine: originally a 4AGZE
> Mods: Twincharger system (supercharger & turbo simultaneously)
> 	Electromotive TEC EFI, Garrett TO4E turbo by Turbonetics, 
> 	dual intercoolers, Venolia pistons, shot-peened rods, 
> 	heat treated and micropolished crank, HKS cams and sprockets,
> 	550cc injectors, TRD race springs, TRD bushings, 
> 	Tokico Illumina shocks, steel-braided brake lines, 
> 	Power Stop cross-drilled rotors, Autopower full roll cage,
> 	and many other details too numerous to type.
> email: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com
> 

Wow.....

Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2

=============================

I second that, sounds great, i'm jealous !

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	101000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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From: "BARCZAK JAMES A" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:43:38 CST6
Subject: Re: Air intake, injectors, EGR

>
> > Mods Done:-K&N FilterCharger 
> >           -Tokico Illumina Shocks
> > 	  -Tornado air flow piece between the AFM and TVIS
> > 	

 
 anyway, I was wondering if you noticed any power differences with the K&N 
 and the Tornado piece??   did you totally eliminate the stock air box 
 (or did you just get a OEM style K&N filtercharger??)  Could you also 
 give me some info about how much and where you got the above parts.  
 I am having a hard time locating stuff for the '85.
 
 Also, I dont think you would need bigger injectors for the mods that 
 you are doing.  However, it may be advantageous to get your injectors 
 cleaned and blueprinted.  (especially if you have a lot of miles on 
 them)  This usually is about $30 an injector.  This will create a 
 better spray pattern, and increase the flow over stock.  The only 
 time you need to get bigger injectors is when you go asperated, or if 
 you have the head, intake, exhaust totally redone to _dramatically_ 
 increase the air flow. 
 
 Another thing you might want to do with your car for more power is to 
 eliminate the Catalytic convertor, and then disable the EGR valve.  
 Simple thermodynamics explains how you will get more power.
 However,if you disable the EGR with the cat on, then you risk burning out 
 the CAT because of the increase in unburned gases.  If you want easy 
 ways to disable the EGR, the manual gives you diagrams of the vacuum 
 lines.  one of the vacuum lines goes to a temperature sensor, and if 
 you plug those lines, then your EGR will not open.  (the vacuum lines 
 will continue to tell the EGR valve that the engine is cold, and 
 therefore will not open the EGR valve.)  However, care must be taken 
 with this modification when in a SMOG testing area...and dont hold me 
 responsible for it!!!
 
 Jim

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 12:07:52 -0500
From: Mark Sink 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Octane

Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> 
> Mark Sink writes:
> 
> > I know of NO car that "sense" what type of fuel you have put in it. The close
> thing to that is a switch on the Supercharged MR2 that allows you to TELL the
> car
> 
> There are quite a few cars that have a sensor to adjust for fuel.  My 1994
> Taurus SHO had one - the car was premium fuel recommended, not required.
> Thus, if you used less than the 91 octane the engine wanted, there was
> a sensor that would take out some of your spark advance to prevent detonation
> and engine damage.  I'm sure there are many cars out there with this
> feature nowadays.  It is not an octane sensor per se, but there is some
> electronic doo dad that senses when you don't have enough octane.  Anyone
> have more info?
> 
> Christopher T. Berchin
> 
> Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com

That's just a knock sensor.. we are aware of those, as they are common.  It senses
knock, and may retard timing, but it doesn't sense fuel type.  The way the original question
was worded it was as if the car could tell he didn't put in 92+ octane, and it would
"complain".  The answer is no, it can't tell, nor does his car have a knock sensor.

Mark Sink

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 20:20:30 +0200
To: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: Re: Tire width again
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

>
>Yes, I'm going to beat on this subject some more.  I've gotten some mail
>to indicate that there is some confusion as to the constants you must
>hold in this subject.
>

I have a computer program that works with the temperatures and pressure of
the tires, cold and hot and will tell you all about the suspension etc as
well as of the proper tire pressure, camber, caster etc.

All I need is the temperatures on three places of each tire, outer, middle
and inner
and infl pressure, before (cold) and after (hot).

Temp taken with pyrometer (with little needle type head sticking it 1-2mm in
the tire foot.

Regards,
Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D.
ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS
Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:27:40 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David 
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods

>BTW.... my car is featured in this months issue of Sport Compact Car
magazine.  
>
>Gerald San Agustin
>88 MR2 Twincharger
>Cyber Racing, So Cal.
>

Which month issue is that?  March or April?

David Rees

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:31:05 -0500
From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods

> >BTW.... my car is featured in this months issue of Sport Compact Car
>magazine.  

>>Gerald San Agustin
>>88 MR2 Twincharger
>>Cyber Racing, So Cal.
>

>Which month issue is that?  March or April?

Actually it's May.  I was just reading the article last night.  Almost 
the whole magazine is devoted to the MR2.  It's a must have!  Lots of 
cool stuff...............  They also interview Geoff about his MR2 
homepage.  We get it through the mail, so I'm not sure if it's on the 
newsstands yet.   

                                                          
Beth C. Williams 
Automated Degree Audit Specialist
Office of the University Registrar
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill		
105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100
Chapel Hill, NC  27599-2100
Phone: (919) 962-0495
e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (David)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:35:36 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Hi!  I was wondering if you noticed any discernable power/mileage gains
> after installing the Tornado air flow piece.  Also, do you know if it is
> still possible to purchase parts from TRD?  Do you know how to contack them?
> Thanks!  Dave
> 

Well, I can't say I noticed any difference with the Tornado and/or OEM K&N
FilterCharger alone.  It was mostly psychological.  I've learned one thing
on this list since last Fall that I want to prove to myself this summer. 
That is that if your not flowing any more out, increasing inflow won't make
much difference.  So, what I'm going to do this summer is leave the intake
the way it is now, install the TRD header, see if I notice a difference,
then put on the PowerMax setup with the intake mod of removing the airbox
and twisty pipe, and see if I notice a difference with that.  I'm pretty
confident that I'll notice a difference with the total mods I have planned,
so it should be worth it in the end.  
	Regarding TRD, the only place I've found to have inventory left is
Select Sales in Miami, Florida.  Their number is (305) 888-2828 and they are
4AGE specialists.  Ask for Steve, he's got a good reputation on this list.

					Hope this helps :)

					Aly
					'85 MR2, red with all options
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: mmm and stereo
To: michaelt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:56:09 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Dear Aly...
> 
> can you tell me exactly what you did to your stereo???  I have 
> replaced my head unit wit a Pioneer with CD...and Kicker 4 inch 
> units in the front. I need some bass..and I am replacing the stock 
> subwoofer as it doesn't work...What did you do??
> 
> Michael
> 

Hi Michael,
	As for the bass part, I installed a/d/s/ 420W/6.2i 6.5 inch bass
speakers in the doors.  I will post the letter I sent to the list a little
while back regarding my system along with this one.  You'll probably see
some pleasant surprises, like the fact that you can fit a good sized speaker
into the '85-'89 MR2 doors without much modification since Toyota factory-
cut the forward bottom corner of the window at a 45 degree angle.  It
actually clears the large magnet of the speakers I put in the doors.  The
sound system was designed with some assistance from Audio Coupe in
Fairfield, Connecticut which did an installation of a similar system in an
NSX in Car Stereo Review not too long ago.  So since they were only about 45
minutes from where I live, I decided to let them give me some ideas as to
how to get the best sound from a mid-engined two seater.  I did all of the
installation myself however and enjoyed doing it.  The system I installed is
for someone who truly enjoys listening to music.  
	If any part of the letter on my installation confuses you, please
email me and I'll be more than happy to discuss it further.

					:-)

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re:Stereo Systems (fwd)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 15:18:26 -0500 (EST)

Forwarded message:

Hi all,
	I'm reposting this letter from a few months back regarding my sound
system installation, since Michael and a few others requested some info
regarding what can be done with the '85-'89 MR2 Stereo.  As I mentioned
before, if any of it confuses anyone, please email me and we can discuss it
further.
					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
					 
> Greetings Everyone,
> 	Regarding Jeffrey's post regarding his well thought out sound
> system, I would like to share what I have done regarding my sound system.  I
> agree about the idea of staying with certain known brands and it will work
> if you are going for good general sound, but if you are going for all out
> clarity and balance (i.e., if you have become a crazed audiophile like me)
> you may find that just because one speaker manufacturer makes a great 6 1/2
> doesn't mean that they make "the best" tweeter or 3 1/2, or that they make
> one at all, as you will see with my installation.  This sound system was
> developed through listening sessions, months of reading, experimenting,
> asking questions, etc.  It evolved from a bare bones system in my first car
> (a '75 Dodge Dart) to a more serious system in my second car (an '88
> Mitsubishi Colt) with pounding bass (yechh, sorry bass lovers), to what it 
> is today in my '85 MR2 over a period of 5 years.
> Here it is:
> 
> Components first:
> 
> Yamaha YCT-925 Head Unit (tuner and cassette)
> Sony CDX-A15 10 disc changer (behind driver's seat, I'm short)
> a/d/s/ 642ix electronic crossover
> MB Quart 200.71 two way passive crossovers (pair)
> (2) a/d/s/ PS5.2 amplifiers (probably the best amp they ever made)
> a/d/s/ s6.2i 6 1/2" bass speakers (in bottom of doors)(also known as 420
> bass speaker)
> MB Quart 100 KN-S 4" coaxials (in factory dash location)
> Infinity 32K 3 1/2" speakers (in upper-rear location)
> 
> Amplifier Division:
>
> One amp runs the 6 1/2s in the doors from 32Hz to 3000Hz with 40Wx2.
> The other amp runs the 4s in the dash and the 3 1/2s in parallel.
> Surprisingly the front/rear balance is perfect running off one amp.
> (this amp is actively crossed over from 130Hz up)
> 
> 6 1/2 inch bass speakers in the doors:
>
> The front bottom of the doors was cut for a larger speaker, then thin sheet
> metal was cut, riveted and silicone sealed to the bottom front doors.  This
> was covered with Dynamat for less resonation, then the hole was cut for the
> 6 1/2" bass speaker.  Surprisingly, Toyota cut the bottom of the window at
> a 45 degree angle so it just misses the large magnet of this speaker (I was
> overjoyed, in a Mercedes 500SL, spacers were needed to mount this speaker,
> and in an NSX (Audio Coupe's install in Car Stereo Review), it worked
> because the Acura door panels are already spaced away from the doors.
> The bass is clear and powerful, without being boomy.
> I replaced the factoy door carpeting (thin felt over plastic) with sonically
> transparent carpeting available from any good car audio shop for $10.  This
> carpeting looks exactly like the factory carpeting, but lets the sound
> through.
> 
> 4" Coaxial speaker (mid and tweeter) in Dashboard:
>
> In the dash, the MB Quart 4s fit right in after you cut off two of the
> mounting tabs so that it looks like the factory speaker.  The 4 and the
> tweeter have separate power leads for bi-amplification if desired.  I
> upgraded the crossovers to the Quart competition crossovers designed for
> these speakers and it cleared up the sound of the speaker noticeably. 
> Polyester insulation (available at any fabric store) was used behind the
> speaker to provide a cleaner enclosure.  
> 
> 3 1/2 inch speaker in upper rear pillars for rear fill:
>
> In the upper rear (where you see holes in the '88/'89 MR2) I installed
> Infinity's 32K 3 1/2" dual cone speaker.  I was skeptical at first with a
> dual cone, but after listening to it, I found the speaker to be clear with
> no harshness normally associated with dual cones.  The cone in the center is
> not very deep anyway, so it may qualify as a mid-high speaker.  I tried
> putting a 4" in there, but it is a very tight squeeze.  For those of you
> wondering, the holes for these speakers are not there. You must remove the
> plastic panel and cut out a hole for the speaker.  Try to get a speaker with
> a paper template for mounting, the Infinity included one.  Polyester
> insulation was used behind this speaker too.
> 
> Radio (non power, just pre-amp tuner), Cassette and CD Player:
>
> Luckily, Sony makes the CD changers for Yamaha, so the Sony changer connects
> right to the very clear Yamaha tuner.  This Head unit is no longer in
> production, since Yamaha left car audio, but it sounds incredible if you can
> get your hands on one.  If you can't find one, I'd use an Alpine 7618.
> 
> Amplifiers, Crossovers, Mounting and Running Wires:
>
> The amps and crossovers are mounted in the trunk against the front wall. 
> They run cool, even though the engine compartment is right on the other
> side.  Wires run to the right around the engine compartment.  Taking the
> cooling vent on the right side of the car out temporarily is necessary to
> mount the wires, and drilling a 1" diameter hole is all that's necessary to
> route the wires into the passenger compartment and to the speakers.
> 
> The installation is very stealth, in that you can't see the speakers if you
> look in.  Every speaker is hidden by factory cloth, grille, or custom cloth.
> 
> I am glad I did the entire install myself.  It really sounds better that way
> when you can tune it yourself and make it sound the way you want it.  It is
> frustrating at times when you can't get the sound right, but when you
> finally get it right, you find it was well worth the effort.  
>  
> If you are someone who truly enjoys listening to music, and you have a MK1
> MR2, this sound setup will be well worth your while.  If anyone has any
> questions regarding more detail of how each speaker or other components were
> mounted or decided upon, please feel free to email me.
> 
> 					-Aly
> 					'85 MR2,Red with All options
>   					(yes, even the black spoiler)
> 					Looking for some more power
> 					the best handling
> 					and the most cost effective mods
> 				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:55:47 -0800
From: "Gerald L. Cornelison" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Retro-Fit Rims/Tires for '91 MR2

Several years ago, I rcvd. a newletter from the Penske MR2 Club 
recommending a rim/tire upgrade for the '91 MR2. The purpose was to match 
tire and rim size, front and rear, so tires could be rotated. I believe 
it recommended a 15" rim, but that is all I remember, and, unfortunately, 
I can't find the old newsletter. Do you have any recommendations or can 
you steer me in the right direction to find the info.

Thank You,
Jerry Cornelison
Riverside,CA
1991 MR2 (purchased 33/12/90)

E-mail glc311@pe.net

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 17:27:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Matthew Lehman 
To: "Christopher T. Berchin" 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Octane

Octane is a detonation inhibitor, which serves to prevent pre-ignition.  
I believe that fuel injected cars have a sensor to detect pinging 
(pre-ignition) and adjust the timing weather the engine is going slower 
or faster.  You should always use the lowest octane gas that causes no 
pinging, or very slight pinging when going uphill in high gear or under 
heavy load.  This pinging should stop quickly since the computer will 
pull back the timing again.  If it doesn't then you need to change gas, 
which usually means upping the octane rating, since it is beyond the 
scope of the computer to adjust for it.

On Thu, 21 Mar 1996, Christopher T. Berchin wrote:

> There are quite a few cars that have a sensor to adjust for fuel.  My 1994
> Taurus SHO had one - the car was premium fuel recommended, not required.
> Thus, if you used less than the 91 octane the engine wanted, there was
> a sensor that would take out some of your spark advance to prevent detonation
> and engine damage.  I'm sure there are many cars out there with this
> feature nowadays.  It is not an octane sensor per se, but there is some
> electronic doo dad that senses when you don't have enough octane.  Anyone
> have more info?
>
> Christopher T. Berchin
>
> Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
>
Just a side note, I'm no expert, but this is to the best of my knowledge.

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: mmm and stereo
To: michaelt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 23:53:28 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Aly...
> you don't have power windows...do you???  
> That section has a solenoid in it...but I would like to do what 
> you have done...
> 
> Michael
> 

Michael, 
	Yes, I do have power windows.  My car has every option available.  
By solenoid, are you referring to the little black box in the doors?  Ahh,
now I remember.  Yes, I forgot to mention that.  I removed the bracket that
holds the black box (or solenoid), wrapped the box with a plastic bag and a
rubber band (sophisticated, huh?) to keep it dry and just placed it at the
bottom of the door, out of the way.   Also, the wires running to this box
were rerouted to allow for the sealed area in the front section of the
doors.  I cut all of those wires and reconnected them so that they run
through a hole slightly farther back in the doors.  Make sure that you mark
each wire and reconnect them securely as these wires run the power windows
and door lock systems.   The only reason I rerouted these wires was to have
a sealed enclosure which the speaker required.  The wires got in the way of
this.

					Happy to help :-)

					Aly
					'85 MR2
					Still waiting for the May issue
					of sport compact car.				
                                  abulkh34@matrix.new paltz.edu

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From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 12:49:39 +0500
To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

 
> I've learned one thing on this list since last Fall that I want to prove to myself this summer. 
> That is that if your not flowing any more out, increasing inflow won't make
> much difference.

I agree with this statement but is the flowing out maximized.
I would suggest get an exhaust cam and replace the intake cam with it.  Use the
same shimes that came with the exhaust cam but remember the exhaust cam is
180 degrees difference with the intake.  So, watch how you set the timing.

Or, maybe you do not want to touch the engine. So, if so, I believe I over
stepped (sorry).

Lata,

BARAM
MI MIGHTA PUT MI FOOT INNA MI MOUT...

Andrew Young
Toyota Mod maddikes
'82 Starlett
'85 Corrolla GTS
'89 Supra Turbo w/ all HKS options

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 09:00:17 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: NO SUBJECT                                                       

                                                                                
> anyway, I was wondering if you noticed any power differences with the K&N     
> and the Tornado piece??   did you totally eliminate the stock air box         
> (or did you just get a OEM style K&N filtercharger??)  Could you also         
> give me some info about how much and where you got the above parts.           
> I am having a hard time locating stuff for the '85.                           
                                                                                
I posted a note not too long ago on how to install the Powermax system from     
Select Sales that removes the entire intake plumbing and replaces the twisty    
pipe between the AFM and TVIS.  If you're interested e-mail me directly and     
I'll send you a copy.                                                           
                                                                                
BTW, what's the "Tornado" piece?                                                
                                                                                
...............                                                                 
Dave A.                                                                         
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 09:18:30 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Stereo

                                                                                
>   I'm reposting this letter from a few months back regarding my sound         
>system installation, since Michael and a few others requested some info        
>regarding what can be done with the '85-'89 MR2 Stereo.  As I mentioned        
>before, if any of it confuses anyone, please email me and we can discuss it    
>further.                                                                       
                                                                                
This is an impressive setup!  I just wanted to give another alternative...      
The factory stereo in my '86 has a short in it when it gets cold... ????        
Below 30 degrees F it craps out and stops playing!  Anyway, this MADE me        
put in a CD player!  :):):)                                                     
                                                                                
I installed the Sony 5490 head unit, the Sony XEC700s crossover, Boston         
Acoustice 4" front speakers (or was the 3.5 inch...), and a Bazooka bass tube.  
The BA dash speakers are powered by an Alpine 30 w/ch amp, and the Bazooka is   
powered by a similar amp bridged to 80 w/ch mono.                               

I did this because I'm somewhat leary of chopping big holes in my door panels,  
and I wanted bass.  I measured up the distance side-to-side in the MKI and      
the 6" Bazooka just fits!  Great!  I'm 6 feet tall, so I decided to put the     
Bazooka behind the passenger seat... (they don't need legroom anyway...).  But  
really, the bass tube only takes out about 1/2 inch of seat travel vs. where    
I put my seat for comfortable driving (and I like to be far back).              
                                                                                
I put the crossover and one amp under the passenger seat and the other amp      
under the driver seat.  The CD player fit in perfectly with just a minor trim   
to the surround trim and some ingenious installation ideas...  thus saying      
you're better off doing it yourself, a dealer would have chopped the heck out   
of my dash and it never would have looked as good.                              
                                                                                
I can provide further details if wanted, but work is calling...                 
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave A.                                                                         
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 07:20:04 -0800
From: Gerald San Agustin 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re:Sport Compact Car mag

>>BTW.... my car is featured in this months issue of Sport Compact Car
>>magazine.
>>
>>Gerald San Agustin
>>88 MR2 Twincharger
>>Cyber Racing, So Cal.
>>
>
>Which month issue is that?  March or April?
>
>David Rees

it's the May issue which is the current issue out right now.  

Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 07:25:14 -0800
From: Gerald San Agustin 
To: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods

>Gerald,
>Do you know when the next Battle of the Imports is?  I live in San >Diego and
>have been to the Carlsbad strip before in my 1980 Celica (just for fun -
>it's way slow).  I'd like to see you run the next time.
>
>Bryan Zublin
>bzublin@gi.com

next Battle is scheduled for sometime in August, but a definite date has yet to be announced.
There are other events like Import Drags at Sacramento or Hi-Tech Shootout in Bakersfield, but I 
never seem to make it to those races because of work.  

Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 10:45:27 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: NO SUBJECT                                                       

*** Resending note of 03/22/96 08:57                                            
                                                                                
(I'm resending this... got kicked back to me... hope you don't get two)         
                                                                                
> anyway, I was wondering if you noticed any power differences with the K&N     
> and the Tornado piece??   did you totally eliminate the stock air box         
> (or did you just get a OEM style K&N filtercharger??)  Could you also         
> give me some info about how much and where you got the above parts.           
> I am having a hard time locating stuff for the '85.                           
                                                                                
I posted a note not too long ago on how to install the Powermax system from     
Select Sales that removes the entire intake plumbing and replaces the twisty    
pipe between the AFM and TVIS.  If you're interested e-mail me directly and     
I'll send you a copy.                                                           
                                                                                
BTW, what's the "Tornado" piece?                                                
                                                                                
...............                                                                 
Dave A.                                                                         
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 10:47:17 EST
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Stereo

*** Resending note of 03/22/96 09:12                                            
                                                                                
(I'm resending this... got kicked back to me... hope you don't get two)         
                                                                                
>   I'm reposting this letter from a few months back regarding my sound         
>system installation, since Michael and a few others requested some info        
>regarding what can be done with the '85-'89 MR2 Stereo.  As I mentioned        
>before, if any of it confuses anyone, please email me and we can discuss it    
>further.                                                                       
                                                                                
This is an impressive setup!  I just wanted to give another alternative...      
The factory stereo in my '86 has a short in it when it gets cold... ????        
Below 30 degrees F it craps out and stops playing!  Anyway, this MADE me        
put in a CD player!  :):):)                                                     
                                                                                
I installed the Sony 5490 head unit, the Sony XEC700s crossover, Boston         
Acoustice 4" front speakers (or was the 3.5 inch...), and a Bazooka bass tube.  
The BA dash speakers are powered by an Alpine 30 w/ch amp, and the Bazooka is   
powered by a similar amp bridged to 80 w/ch mono.                               
                                                                                
I did this because I'm somewhat leary of chopping big holes in my door panels,  
and I wanted bass.  I measured up the distance side-to-side in the MKI and      
the 6" Bazooka just fits!  Great!  I'm 6 feet tall, so I decided to put the     
Bazooka behind the passenger seat... (they don't need legroom anyway...).  But  
really, the bass tube only takes out about 1/2 inch of seat travel vs. where    
I put my seat for comfortable driving (and I like to be far back).              
                                                                                
I put the crossover and one amp under the passenger seat and the other amp      
under the driver seat.  The CD player fit in perfectly with just a minor trim   
to the surround trim and some ingenious installation ideas...  thus saying      
you're better off doing it yourself, a dealer would have chopped the heck out   
of my dash and it never would have looked as good.                              
                                                                                
I can provide further details if wanted, but work is calling...                 
                                                                                
..............                                                                  
Dave A.                                                                         
1986 MR2                                                                        
daucott@e-mail.com                                                              

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Tornado
To: daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (G. D. Aucott)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 11:32:50 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> BTW, what's the "Tornado" piece?
> 
> ...............
> Dave A.
> 1986 MR2
> daucott@e-mail.com
> 

Hi Dave,
	The Tornado was something I found advertised in Turbo Magazine a
while back.  It's a small device made of sheet metal that looks like a
little fan, but has no moving parts.  It fits inside the pipe between the
MAF and the throttle body.  According to Tornado Air Flow Systems, "it
creates a swirling effect which creates turbulence in the combustion
chamber, thereby increasing power and mileage".  They claim an increase of
about 5hp.  I have had it installed for a while, but if it makes a
difference, I have a feeling it won't be noticed until I make some changes
to the exhaust system.  The Tornado costs about $80.
	I plan on doing your "Dave Aucott" intake modification within the
next few months, and I'd be interested in whether or not you think I should
put the Tornado piece in the new intake pipe, or whether it would just be a
restriction.  This might be something we should ask Steve at Select Sales.
	Someone on this list mentioned a little while back after returning
from that SEMA Show that the Tornado "does work for normally aspirated
motors, but it doesn't do anything for turbocharged motors".  So according
to this statement, it may do something for the 4AGE.  Someone also mentioned
that any turbulence made would be lost in the TVIS anyway.  
	So there are conflicting opinions about this Tornado.  We might try
to come to a conclusion about it in the next few weeks.

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Stereo
To: daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (G. D. Aucott)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 11:43:59 -0500 (EST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> >   I'm reposting this letter from a few months back regarding my sound
> >system installation, since Michael and a few others requested some info
> >regarding what can be done with the '85-'89 MR2 Stereo.  As I mentioned
> >before, if any of it confuses anyone, please email me and we can discuss it
> >further.
>  
> This is an impressive setup!

  Thank you.  :)

> I just wanted to give another alternative...
> The factory stereo in my '86 has a short in it when it gets cold... ????
> Below 30 degrees F it craps out and stops playing!  Anyway, this MADE me
> put in a CD player!  :):):)
> 
> I installed the Sony 5490 head unit, the Sony XEC700s crossover, Boston
> Acoustice 4" front speakers (or was the 3.5 inch...), and a Bazooka bass tube.
> The BA dash speakers are powered by an Alpine 30 w/ch amp, and the Bazooka is
> powered by a similar amp bridged to 80 w/ch mono.

  This sounds like a impressive setup too.  Just wondering, I love the 
MB Quarts, but how much did the Boston Acoustics 4" speakers cost?  
The Quart 4's cost around $220 for the pair.
              
> 
> I put the crossover and one amp under the passenger seat and the other amp
> under the driver seat.

I may consider doing this just for a change of pace, and to make the sound
system even more stealth than it already is.

> ..............
> Dave A.
> 1986 MR2
> daucott@e-mail.com
> 

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL  
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 13:47:16 -0800 (PST)

> > Mods: Twincharger system (supercharger & turbo simultaneously)
> >       Electromotive TEC EFI, Garrett TO4E turbo by Turbonetics,
> >       dual intercoolers, Venolia pistons, shot-peened rods,
> >       heat treated and micropolished crank, HKS cams and sprockets,
> >       550cc injectors, TRD race springs, TRD bushings,
> >       Tokico Illumina shocks, steel-braided brake lines,
> >       Power Stop cross-drilled rotors, Autopower full roll cage,
> >       and many other details too numerous to type.
> > email: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com
> >
> 
> BTW.... my car is featured in this months issue of Sport Compact Car magazine.  
> 
> Gerald San Agustin
> 88 MR2 Twincharger
> Cyber Racing, So Cal.
> 

I just read that article, and was wondering if all those engine 
modifications were necessary to keep the engine from blowing up with the 
twin charger system installed.  I've been considering the system myself, 
and if I find a vendor who still carries it (probably somewhere in 
Japan), I'd like to know the longevity of an unmodified engine with one 
installed. Thanks.

Regards,
Micky
'89 MR2 SC (SingleCharger)

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 19:26:06 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: mmm and stereo

Stereos???
Did someone say stereos???
'85 MK1:
Here it is, best price, best bass~~NO MODS (no one laugh,