Toyota-Mods Postings Apr 1996

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Apr 1996 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Springs To: daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (G. D. Aucott USAET) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 00:01:15 -0500 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hey Dave, > > *** Resending note of 03/30/96 12:48 > > Hi everyone. > > Is anyone out there using Suspension Techniques performance springs on their > MKI? I understand they're progressive rate similar to Eibach, but they are > less expensive. From the earlier discussions it appears people favor Eibach, > but I just wondered if the ST springs are similar, have good quality, etc. > I'll have ST bars on my car and (in theory) the ST springs would make a matched > set. > I've decided to get the Eibach's pretty soon simply because they don't lower as much as the ST's and I've been told that the Eibachs ride a lot smoother than the ST's. This is important to me since the car is my daily driver. I've also been told that the ST's don't hold up as well as the Eibachs, i.e., the ST's tend to sag after a while. > I can get ST springs for $160/set and Eibachs for $234/set. I guess that > makes this the $74 question! :D > Unless you have a big discount, I have a feeling that that price of $160 is for the ST race springs. However, even if that price is for the progressives, I'd still go for the Eibachs for the reasons listed above. > Thanks for any help... > > .............. > Dave A. > 1986 MR2 > daucott@e-mail.com > > My pleasure :) Aly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:00:36 +0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, pah112@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Update->20R Carb Problem: I noticed something NEW! X > So I have several questions: > > What is causing fuel to stream out of the primary nozzle during idle? The float in carb causes the fuel to flow. It seems as if the float got stucked cause this stream. > Why does it occur intermittantly? It could be that the parts are worn out. > Can this be fixed easily? Suggestion is to rebuild the carb and replace with new/rebuilt. > Should I see fuel spraying out of the secondary side? No, cause this jet only comes certain times. However, if reved high enough, then you should. > Should I see the secondary throttle valve move? No, with same reason above. > > You guys have been very helpful so far, so let's see if one of you can nail > down this one for me. My Celica has given me many 100's of 1000's of miles > of faithful service, but this problem is very frustrating. > > Please email me direct, I do not subscribe to this wonderful list. > > Thanks, > > Peter Howard 87 Supra Turbo 100K 79 Celica 200K > However, if buying a new/rebuilt, better to buy the down draft weber which was suggested previously. Lata, BARAM ANODA MAD MOD: RUN TURBO CAMS CAMS ON A BRIDGE PORT 4A-GE in a STARLETT DEN ASK DE QUESTION: "WANNA FLY???" xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:16:57 +0500 To: terlau@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, ez020913@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: More Starlet Mods... Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com s in San Fran. who supposedly are very experienced in racing Starlets. > What is the difference with the driveshafts of the 81-82 and 83-84? I > may have a rough time sourcing this, as I have not seen too many 83-84's > around here, on or off the road. I figure the things wouldn't visit the > junkyard too often. The damn things run forever! The Toyota yard has no > parts for the Starlet, last time I checked. They just refer me to the > pick-n-pull. The main difference is the length ~0.5-1 inch. According to all the prople I have been in contact with claims that there is a bigger difference. But, I have successfully used an 83 tranny with an 82 shaft without any cutting and balancing. Also, I have used the 82 tranny with the 83 shaft without cutting and balancing also. The only problem I get is the 82 tranny with the 83 shaft is that the shaft cover does not cover the tranny back as much as with 82 tranny and shaft. However, the bottom line is that it works without mods. > > While I'm asking, does anyone know where I can obtain a full set > of heavy duty suspension bushings for the Starlet? I not sure if these bushing are heavy duty as you want but I use the polys from JC Whitney. They worked fine and gave me a tighter cornering. > > Also, what are the "TRD heavy duty strut mounts"? Is it a strut/ > chassis tie bar or stiffener of some sort? > This question I would leave to the TRD experts cause I do not have a clue. > -Jayson > Lata, BARAM MAD MODS FROM A MAD MAN... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 00:45:51 -0800 (PST) From: //Jayson Entao// To: Craig A Terlau Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: More Starlet Mods... Hi Craig (and everyone), I contacted Topi at TRS. He seems very knowledgable in this area! For a pair of racing shock assemblies he quoted me $200. Is this what you were referring to (at $140 front, $80 rear)? I think they came with a racing brake set (used?). He advised that I could use this combo with the stock springs, cut to length. He also me that they carry a forged piston set and a close ratio tranny, used, in stock. If I had the time and dough, I would have liked to take my car down to SoCal and have him build it up himself! However, he referred me to some people here at Auto Plus in San Fran. who supposedly are very experienced in racing Starlets. Yes, I see that the chassis and driveline should be beefed up first. That would leave me time to consider my choice of powerplant in the future. I finally caught up to the TM backposts in which you joined in.....saw some useful info.... I will be going up to the Rancho Cordova Recycling Center sometime this week to check out the stuff. I'll be checking out the inventory for the parts you mentioned. There's some pretty good finds there every now and then, and there are a couple of pick-n-pull salvage yards there too. One yard recently got an '82 Starlet in which is complete except for the right front fender-- probably something wrong with it somewhere! What is the difference with the driveshafts of the 81-82 and 83-84? I may have a rough time sourcing this, as I have not seen too many 83-84's around here, on or off the road. I figure the things wouldn't visit the junkyard too often. The damn things run forever! The Toyota yard has no parts for the Starlet, last time I checked. They just refer me to the pick-n-pull. While I'm asking, does anyone know where I can obtain a full set of heavy duty suspension bushings for the Starlet? Also, what are the "TRD heavy duty strut mounts"? Is it a strut/ chassis tie bar or stiffener of some sort? -Jayson xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Springs (fwd) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 03:44:25 -0800 (PST) I'm still shopping around for a suspension set-up on my car. I too agree that the ST's sag after a while, many people have told me this. I only considered the ST's because they lowered 1/4 inch lower than the Eibach's. I'd stick with the Eibachs too in my opinion. My philosophy is that if you're gonna spend that much on springs anyways, just buy the best you could afford, unless you're on a budget. :-) Might as well enjoy riding in the car for a couple of years than to endure it. Richard Leong | Red with one-of-a-kind body-kit '86 Celica GTS | Powerflow and custom exhaust leongc@sfu.ca | Still looking for the perfect suspension upgrade > I've decided to get the Eibach's pretty soon simply because they don't lower > as much as the ST's and I've been told that the Eibachs ride a lot smoother > than the ST's. This is important to me since the car is my daily driver. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "BARCZAK JAMES A" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 07:27:12 CST6 Subject: Re: Returned mail: Host unknown > Hello; I just purchased a 1984 Supra. The problem is it will not pass > the emissions test. Three dealers, in this area, are unable to test and > adjust the emissions due to computers being down. Has anyone any > information on how to adjust the sensors to reduce the HC(ppm), > allowed 220 actual 451 and the CO(%) allowed, 1.20 actual 1.83. > I would recommend before you start messing with sensors, that you check your catalytic convertor first. This may be the answer to all of your emissions problems. You can buy an aftermarket cat. for around $70-100, and splice it in yourself. (the OEM toyota cats. are quite pricey). If your cat. is ok, then I would make sure your EGR valve is functioning properly. Is the car running properly??? Do you have the "check engine" light come on?? Jim xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 1 Apr 96 15:14:48 EST Subject: Re: Springs Whenever I buy springs for my cars, I simply pick up an Eibach or Hypercoil catalog, and select the rate I want, the free length, and diameter. They usually end up costing about 50 US dollars each. Both Eibach and Hypercoil guarantee rate and free length forever. The springs I've received are epoxy coated with the rate etched into the end of the spring. I haven't had experience with the Suspension Techniques products. If you've got adjustable spring perches on your car, you can put any spring on your car as long as you know what you want. Your not limited to those offerings that are listed by different vendors for the MR2. All my sports cars have adjustable spring perches and are all set up to accept a 2.25" i.d. spring. This spring size is used for zillions of different types of racing cars here in the US, and elsewhere. It's the spring for the FF, F2000, Sports 2000, and others. This means that the high-quality springs are readily available from a number of different vendors, available at a reasonable price, and can be had in multitudes of lengths and rates. Besides the advantages of adjustable springs perches for setting precise ride height at a specific vehicle load, and corner weight adjustment, adjustable spring perches give you a broad latitude for springs choices since the length doesn't have to be so precise. Just figure out what you need (the best place, and the only place, for determining this properly is a road racing or autocross circuit), go to the Eibach catalog, and order the springs you need from a very long list. The stock spring specifications for the Mk1 MR2 are given in the service manual, and TRD specifies the rates of their performance offerings. From there, if you've got a reason to change the spring rates, you've got some references to work from. You need some numbers to start with. All you have to do to set up for adjustable spring perches is cut off the lower spring retainer from the str ut body and weld, or have someone weld for you, an inexpensive threaded sleeve to the strut body. I've seen a conversion where the threaded collar slips over the strut body and sits on the lower spring retainer/cup/perch. On this progressive-rate spring thing. I've never seen a progressive rate spring on a successful, purpose built-racing car, or fitted to other performance cars for that matter. For full-race applications, springs for road cars turned race cars also are linear. Progressive rate springs are a comprise, and maybe good one for some folks. They try to maintain some straight-line or low cornering speed ride quality and chassis control and also provide a sufficient spring rate somewhere during roll for mass transfer characteristics that give proper suspension control. But generally, linear rate springs provide more rapid, more repeatable, more predictable suspension response. Progressive rate springs spirited road use? Sure, why not? - Steven xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 16:07:51 -0700 (MST) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: FS: '91 MR2 Turbo Leather Seats To: MR2-Interest List , I am thinking of selling the leather seats from my '91T. I am looking for around $500 CAN (approx US$370) each and will only sell the seats as a pair. Note that this does not include any shipping costs. The car only has 36,000km on it (22,500 miles), so you can imagine that the seats are in excellent shape. The driver's seat is 5-point harness ready, with a very well sewn hole in it for the sub belt. The only visible wear is on the left side bolster of the driver's seat, and even that is pretty minimal. Send me an email if you are interested. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 2 Apr 1996 09:19:31 U From: "Dave Vespremi" Subject: HKS mods To: " " , I have a 1993 MR2 non-turbo (CA car) and am thinking about uprgading it = with an HKS Superpowerflow. I'd appreciate some input as to 1) how much = gain I can expect from this mod. alone in both h.p. and/or torque 2) are = there any negative side effects (the additional noise I know about, my = main concern is filtering ability) 3) Also, how will this mod. affect the = car's present powercurve, and if I decide to go all the way to Stage II = (the exhaust and ignition upgrades from HKS) what gains can I expect and = how would this affect the powercurve and/or engine longevity? Lastly, = are there any chip upgrades available for my car and if so, what kind of = gains would these offer w/or without the other mods? -- My main concerns = aside from engine reliability/longevity are 1) passing CA emissions 2) = not drastically altering the car's present powercurve (engine = "character"), Any advice would be greatly appreciated... Thanks... -- David xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 21:24:52 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer) Subject: Info for 86-89 Celica Owners Richard Leong had asked for some suspension ideas back before I went on National Guard, and I hadn't had a chance to get back with him directly yet. Since I don't know what was discussed since then, here's a little shopping list that some may find useful. This was a pretty quick hack, so I may have a price, part number, or year messed up. Let me know if you need more info... Chris (BTW, I'm not hooked up to TM _yet_. Promised myself that I'd get caught up on my mail before I did anything fun. I'm up to the 16th! :-( ) --------------------Begin 86-89 Celica Shopping List------------------- Toyota Celica (86-89) ===================== (Last Updated: 1 April 1996) Borla Performance Exhaust System: Not Available Centerforce Clutches: To be added. Email for more information. DynoMax Super Turbo Exhaust: 17451, $122.10 DynoMax Super Converter Catalytic Converter: (Email for more information. Government regulations are quite specific regarding the replacement of catalytic converters and must be strictly followed.) Eibach Coil Spring Set: 8212.140, $212.42 Energy Suspension Bushings: Not Available Greddy Exhaust System: Not Available Hayden Oil Cooler: 457, $109.53 Hayden Remote Oil Filter Kits: 291, $35.70 HKS Powerflow Air Filter System: Not Available HKS Sport Exhaust (50mm): 2550EC-11227K, $373.97 87-92 All Trac, 2567EC-11228M, $439.95 In-Trax Lowering Springs(-1.75"): 75.1.010, $211.25 Koni Shock Cartridge: Front, 8641-1115, $J=167.43 Rear, 8641-1116, $J=167.43 KYB GR-2 Gas Shocks: Front, 365058, $ Rear, Right, 235028, $ Left, 235029, $ (Email for pricing...) Jacobs Ignition: '91-- Energy Pak: Mileage Master, 370408, $246.75 Pro Street, 370508, $269.25 Energy Team: Mileage Master, 370418, $321.75 Pro Street, 370518, $348.00 Ultra Team: Mileage Master, 372418, $359.25 Pro Street, 372518, $385.50 '86-'89 & '91-- Energy Pak: Mileage Master, 370406, $246.75 Pro Street, 370506, $269.25 Energy Team: Mileage Master, 370416, $321.75 Pro Street, 370516, $348.00 Ultra Team: Mileage Master, 372416, $359.25 Pro Street, 372516, $385.50 K&N Filtercharger Air Filter: 1.6l & 2.2l, 33-2041, $34.75 2.0l, 33-2030, $44.95 K&N Filter Care Kit: 99-5050, $7.50 K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit: Not Available Magnecor KV85 Competition Spark Plug Wires: 86-89 GTS, 45174, $55.28 88-89 All Trac, 45173, $68.50 90-91 All Trac, 45198, $71.51 Pace Setter Header/Exhaust System: Header, 86-89 3SFE, 70-1155, $102.34 Monza Exhaust, 86-89, 88-1354, $115.99 Pacific Auto Accessories Aerodynamic Styling: (Many products available, send email for more information) Splitfire Spark Plugs: SF6D, $5.45 each Stillen Sport Rotors: (Honda/Nissan/Toyota) Not Available Stillen Performance Brake Pads: (Honda/Nissan/Toyota) Front (88-89 GTS w/o ABS), D507M, $40.48 Front (88-89 GTS ABS, 90-93 All), D1129M, $47.75 Front (88-89 All Trac), D1514M, $89.04 Rear (88-89 All, 90-93 GTS), D558M, $66.24 Note: "All" means all models, "All Trac" means 4WD Celica only. Suspension Techniques Anti-Sway Bar Kit: 86-89 (25mm Front, 16mm Rear) 3-073 (Both), $276.00 1-073 (Front), $165.48 2-073 (Rear), $157.08 Suspension Techniques Sport Lowering Spring Set (-1.3"): 86-89 2WD, S-073C, $217.56 Tokico Premium Performance Struts and Strut Cartridges: 88-89 (All), HZ3140 (Front), $58.23 each 88-89 (All), HB3043/HB3044, $91.23 each Tokico Illumina Adjustable Struts and Strut Cartridges: Not Available Tokico Premium Springs (-1"): 86-89 (All Except All Trac), HPS5068, $180.68 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 22:05:37 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: pah112@psu.edu (Peter A Howard) Subject: *20R Carb Wanted* & Final Diagnosis Hello, Thanks for all the help. It appears that the problem lies with the float. The float is allowing too much fuel to flow into the carb. I will look into fixing this, but I am very unfamiliar with carbs. I am moderately mechanically inclined (replaced motor and clutch on the Celica) but carbs are foreign territory for me. Is it difficult to get at the float bowl? Removing the carb seems to be a cinch. Also, I do have the factory repair manual. Does anyone have a carb for sale? I called the local shops and dealers, and they want $300 (local parts store) to upwards of $600 (dealer)!!! Keep in mind that this is a 17 year old car and is on it's last legs (body is rusting, but the engine is good). Also, this is my second car, and I really don't want to spend too much money on it. I spend enough on my Supra, which is a real money pit. Please, anyone with a used working carb, email me. Thank-you for the help, Peter Howard 87 Supra Turbo (100K) 79 Celica (200K) Visit My Supra At: http://www.supras.com/peterh/peterh.html xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 14:46:39 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: formulas Hiya all, >> Could somebody please give me mathmatical formulas for horsepower and >>torque? >> Thanks! > >Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) / 5252 > >Torque = (5252 x BHP)/ RPM > Just thought I'd throw a spanner in the works - not! The aeroplane I fly at the moment, a Swearengine Metro 2TC, has Garret TPE331-10 engines that put out 840 hp and 2206 ft/lbs of torque on takeoff. The propellor does 2000 rpm, so if we use those figures in the above equations the numbers come out _exactly_ right. Take a look - Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) / 5252 (2000 x 2206) / 5252 = 840. Torque = (5252 x BHP) / RPM (5252 x 840) / 2000 = 2206. So the equation works EXACTLY for a turboprop. But does it work for a piston, say a 4AGE? If we use a 160 hp@ 65000 rpm engine, then the torque should be - (5252 x 160) / 6500 = 129 ft/lbs. From a little practical experience, that sounds about right to me, but for sure in the real world there are exceptions .... Like rotary engines that are notoriously good on HP, but relatively poor on torque. How about some V-8's, only 200 hp odd, but far more torque than the equation would suggest. I could go on for quite a while here, but for a bloody change of pace, I won't. :) The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 14:47:15 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Cheap(est) throttle bodies. Hiya all, Here's some mail I got from Chris Myer. (The proud father of a brand new racing driver & projectile vomit generator. :) >Bill: >>I don't want to take any business away from you, so I won't post to TM that >>instead of buying expensive throttle body(s) to increase airflow, all I'm >>going to do for my new 4AGE is use a couple of dead Weber carby bodies with >>all the 'bits' removed. (Except the butterflys, of course.) I got a pair of >>45's for Aus$100 (US$76) and all I basically have to do is block up a few of >>the holes that aren't used anymore. Dead easy, mate! ;) >Aw, post away! This isn't a big part of my business anyway, and I'm >always looking for ways to save folks money. Around here, dead Weber's >aren't that easy to find anyway! You're probably going to pay nearly >as much for a worn out set, especially when you add in the cost of >putting in a hole for the injectors. >>I am pretty sure that it was a stronger 18RG unit, >>so maybe with perhaps a little fiddling you could fit a heavy duty 18RG >>clutch to a 4AGE? Should solve the problem. >Hmmm, and the 18RG clutch is that same thing as a 2xR clutch. That >seems almost too good to be true... >Chris >(Catching up on all this old mail!) The second mail was about stronger clutches for 4AGE's. The gist of the mail was this - I have a suspicion that an 18RG clutch will fit some 4AGE's. Chris says that 2xR (20R + 22R) clutches may also fit. Can anyone check on this? The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 00:48:33 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) Subject: Re: formulas Bill Sherwood writes: >>Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) / 5252 >>Torque = (5252 x BHP)/ RPM >So the equation works EXACTLY for a turboprop. But does it work for a >piston, say a 4AGE? > >sure in the real world there are exceptions .... Like rotary engines that >are notoriously good on HP, but relatively poor on torque. >How about some V-8's, only 200 hp odd, but far more torque than the equation >would suggest. >I could go on for quite a while here, but for a bloody change of pace, I >won't. :) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Dear Bill: The relationship between Hp, torque and rpm has nothing to do with whether the motor is in a car, an airplane, or is running the fan in your computer. It is a pure mathematical relationship that is embodied in the very definition of horsepower. One horsepower is 33,000 ft-lbs/min = 550 ft-lbs/sec. -- Nothing else matters, gasoline, electricity or cow dung for a power source, its all the same. Dick Byrd byrd@mnsinc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 00:02:22 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Re: 1980 Corolla >Dear Sirs; > I have a 1980 Corolla SR-5 that I am very interested in fixing >up. The body is in good condition; The engine/drivetrain needs TLC. I >am wondering if you can either give me some advice or point me in the way >of some people who can help me out. I am going to use the car mainly >for long distance, high speed driving, cross country and the like. >Currently, it has the stock 13" rims, a 3T-C and a 5speed tranny. I am >mainly interested in improving the top end, with a little better >perfformance, but I also am looking at economy, seeing as I am on a >limited budget. (Although I understand that more performance means less >economy- I simply don't want to get into the 13 mpg range; between 20 and >30 is my goal. Is this realistic?) Scott, Sorry that I have been so slow to respond--been out of town. I've got a 78 Corolla, TE-31. I was getting (hard to remember, actually) maybe 31 mpg with an older but good stock 2TC. Switched from 165 tires to 185HR14's. Handling improved **amazingly** but mpg went down to about 29. No other modifications were necessary to make this tire/wheel change. Harder bushings would probably help as well, but haven't done that yet. With this tire setup, the speedometer is off, the car is lower, and cruising at 60 mph is at about (very approx.) 3.1k rpm. You could always change the rear-end, if you want. Then I modified a 3TC pretty much to the max (still normally aspirated). Carbs are Mikuni 44's. Hot street cam, etc. Mpg is about (not too accurate, but about) 25 mpg on the highway--and that could be with a little bit of lead-foot passing-- but not doing 85. So... don't worry about "13 mpg or something". I use the stock radiator--had it reconditioned. Engine never runs hot. No cooling problems whatsoever. > First of all, what kind of engines are available for my vehicle, >and which would be the best for an economy/sport/cruising package? What >is that availability of parts for these engines, if they are of the >imported -U type? Do I want fuel injection? With an '80 Corolla, you're set up for carburetion, so switching to EFI sounds like an unwanted headache with wiring--but then, I haven't done this kind of thing. I'm trying to figure out why you want to get rid of the the T-5 tranny and the 3TC (unless you want to modify to an extent that you are up against smog regs.). Anyway, what *are* your smog regulations?? This could dictate a great deal about engine choice. At any rate, pick your engine first, then work out details later. Of course the 4AGE is a great engine (don't know how easy to fit, but it should fit). Then you'd have to be wired for EFI, or you could put on non-smog-legal side-draft carbs, which would be a great way to go IF you didn't have inspections. I bet you'd still get very good gas milage. (Again, what are your inspection restrictions). If so, can I use late-model >parts (fuel pumps, high-pressure fittings, etc) from other Toyotas to >refit mine? > In the drivetrain, I am interested in getting a better gear >ratio. Is there a stock differential from another type of toyota that >would fit reasonably well and give a better top end? (from a celica or >Supra, perhaps?) As for the tranny, do I need to get a better geared >one? How about the aluminum supra tranny (W-55?) that is out and >around? What kind of adaptions do I need to make to get everything to >fit? And what kind of structural modifications am I going to need to >make? > As for the suspension, I haven't the faintest. Any ideas here? I >have the stock 13" tires, should I consider getting bigger rims? If so, >do I need to make any mods to the suspension in order to accomodate the >larger size? > Legal-wise, what do I need to keep in mind? It is a California >car, but I am going to register it in Illinois... Haven't checked out the >smog limits yet, but I know that in CA it is virtually impossible to pass >with many mods... =( What can I do in Illinois, and what should I steer >clear of? Is all of Illinois the same? Check out the specific area. In Indiana, it's different depending on where you live. Just don't know about Illinois. You may need to contact EPA (or something) to find out for your intended area. > In the cooling drepartment, should I think about installing a >bigger radiator? Oil cooling unit? You should be okay in cooling unless you get super radical. >What the hell do I do with the A/C >equiptment? This means that you are definitely changing engines and want to know if the current A/C compressor will fit with a different engine? Well, one step at a time, I think. First, look at your smog regulations and what engine you will use and whether it's EFI or carb. I would suggest that first. Then worry about adapting the A/C (if necessary at all). There is normally some solution if you want to retain A/C. > Thanks for your time and paitience in reading thi, and I >appreciate any response that I can get. If you have any literature >sources that you reccomend, then I would love to know what they are. > > Thanks, > Scott Davis > ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu When you figure out which engine(s) you could have in mind, I've got some archived t-m posts. Let me know. By the way, you probably have a rust-free body. I envy you. Illinois winters are hell on the body-work. If this is a really serious project car, you might consider what some people do--also drive a junker winter car. Or, take your chances. I moved my '78 Corolla up from Mississippi and got bad rust-through in 5 years. Now, I'm getting a (big) estimate for body work. It's also hard to find someone who will do conscientious anti-rust body work. Just thought I'd warn you. Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: formulas To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 12:04:32 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > Hiya all, > > >> Could somebody please give me mathmatical formulas for horsepower and > >>torque? > >> Thanks! > > > >Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) / 5252 > > > >Torque = (5252 x BHP)/ RPM > > > > Just thought I'd throw a spanner in the works - not! > The aeroplane I fly at the moment, a Swearengine Metro 2TC, has Garret > TPE331-10 engines that put out 840 hp and 2206 ft/lbs of torque on takeoff. > The propellor does 2000 rpm, so if we use those figures in the above > equations the numbers come out _exactly_ right. Take a look - > > Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) / 5252 > (2000 x 2206) / 5252 = 840. > > Torque = (5252 x BHP) / RPM > (5252 x 840) / 2000 = 2206. > > So the equation works EXACTLY for a turboprop. But does it work for a > piston, say a 4AGE? If we use a 160 hp@ 65000 rpm engine, then the torque > should be - > > (5252 x 160) / 6500 = 129 ft/lbs. > > >From a little practical experience, that sounds about right to me, but for > sure in the real world there are exceptions .... Like rotary engines that > are notoriously good on HP, but relatively poor on torque. > How about some V-8's, only 200 hp odd, but far more torque than the equation > would suggest. > I could go on for quite a while here, but for a bloody change of pace, I > won't. :) The equation applies ALWAYS, on the specific rpm. That means your 4A-GE has that 129lbft also at 6500rpm, but might have more at another rpm. For metric people: power=torque*(angular speed) power in Watts, torque in Nm, angular speed rad/s. Example: 330Nm*(4000rpm/60*2*3.14)=138160Watts, that is 138kW or 138*1.36=188hp The rotary has low maximum torque, but it is at a high rpm. The V8 has gobs of low end but nothing up where the rotary starts screaming. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 195+-10hp@4200-6700rpm A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 10:16:12 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: cmyer@cyberauto.com (Christopher P. Myer) Subject: Re: SC engine mounts I just read Mike Leary's comments about the inherent harshness of upgrading to stiffer motor mounts. How true! But drive a "true" race car, with the motor mounts replaced with nothing but steel brackets for the engine! Not to mention the body mounts removed and the tranny support bolted directly to the frame without a bit of rubber or poly in there. My buddy's Sportsman Circle Track race car is like that. When I drive that thing it's like feeling every combustion stroke, every bump, every hole in the road transferred right into your skull. Add on top the fact that the seat is .125" aluminum bolted directly into the car, and you have the opportunity to get a new perspective on harsh rides! (BTW Mike, I'd agree that stiffening the motor mounts can usually wait until after the shock/spring upgrade, the strut tower bar, and the other suspension bushing upgrades...) (Oh, not yet back on TM, it's just that this got copied to me. I'm up to 27 March on my effort to get caught up on my email before I resubscribe. I'm starting to go through serious withdrawal symptoms!) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 10:45:13 -0500 From: Mark Sink To: mr2-interest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Trust Turbo Timer install and features Anyone here installed a Trust Turbo Timer. I've read Geoff's instructions for the HKS unit, and assume they are similar.. Is there anyone that can explain all the functions of the Trust unit? Thanks, Mark xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: BBRANDT@tcmail.frco.com Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 13:13:38 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I have just been informed by the local Jacobs rep that they will not make me a set of wires for my '89SC MR2. They say that they can't get the right extension that goes down into the valley between the cams and seals on the protecting plate. What are my other choices for performance wires that will still let me listen to the radio? Does Magnecore make a correct set for the 4AGZ? By the way, is the MR2 digest still operating? I haven't gotten anything for a while. Regards, Bruce Brandt '89 SC MR2 T-Tops xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 15:50:50 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wires >and seals on the protecting plate. What are my other choices for >performance wires that will still let me listen to the radio? Does >Magnecore make a correct set for the 4AGZ? I can't speak to the supercharged, but they make wires for my '86 NA. My set is in the basement ready for installation as soon as my car's out of storage >By the way, is the MR2 digest still operating? I haven't gotten >anything for a while. I've been getting digests regularly, so it's still operating. .............. G. Dave Aucott 1998 FN145 Structures 32-39181 Internet: daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 12:52:42 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: Speedo on '81 Celica Here's a little problem that you gurus might be able to help me solve. On my '81 Celica, the stock Speedometer only goes up 85 mph. But when I drive it, it usually cruises about 75-80. So when I want to pass, I don't know how fast I'm going. The question is, is there a way to put a different speedometer in it's place that will read up to 120mph or so without major mods? Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: BBRANDT@tcmail.frco.com Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 16:33:14 -0600 Subject: Re: formulas To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com If you are puzzled by the V8 with 200 hp but tons of torque look at the following spreadsheet. It all depends where that hp is generated. Assuming a constant 200 hp over a range of engine speeds the torque drops rapidly as the rpm goes up. Typical figures quoted for those V8's has the max hp developed at relative low rpm. It's too easy to focus on a single number like max hp or torque and forget that they both vary with engine speed. The second represents a more real world situation with the same max hp but peaking at 3000 rpm. Hope this helps clarify the situation, BRB Fixed Hp Varying Hp RPM BHP Torque RPM BHP Torque 1500 200 700 1500 50 175 1600 200 657 1600 60 197 1700 200 618 1700 70 216 1800 200 584 1800 80 233 1900 200 553 1900 90 249 2000 200 525 2000 100 263 2100 200 500 2100 110 275 2200 200 477 2200 120 286 2300 200 457 2300 130 297 2400 200 438 2400 140 306 2500 200 420 2500 150 315 2600 200 404 2600 160 323 2700 200 389 2700 170 331 2800 200 375 2800 180 338 2900 200 362 2900 190 344 3000 200 350 3000 200 350 3100 200 339 3100 200 339 3200 200 328 3200 200 328 3300 200 318 3300 200 318 3400 200 309 3400 200 309 3500 200 300 3500 200 300 3600 200 292 3600 200 292 3700 200 284 3700 200 284 3800 200 276 3800 200 276 3900 200 269 3900 200 269 4000 200 263 4000 197 259 4100 200 256 4100 194 249 4200 200 250 4200 191 239 4300 200 244 4300 188 230 4400 200 239 4400 185 221 4500 200 233 4500 182 212 4600 200 228 4600 179 204 4700 200 223 4700 176 197 4800 200 219 4800 173 189 4900 200 214 4900 170 182 5000 200 210 5000 167 175 5100 200 206 5100 164 169 5200 200 202 5200 161 163 5300 200 198 5300 158 157 5400 200 195 5400 155 151 5500 200 191 5500 152 145 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: mk1:Eibachs& 205/50 15's To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 16:59:03 -0800 (PST) > >As the MKIs have no power > >steering, the increase weight and grip of the wider tires/wheels make > >holding the car straight on bad pavement significantly more pronounced > >and requires more effort in correcting. My car has a tendency to follow > >grooves in the road that I can't see. Set > > Yeah, this is pretty obvious on my MK1. It took a few miles, but I'm used to > it. Some of the roads here in NYC suck, and the car can be a handful on a > rainy day. Cornering is great on a smooth road. Lemme know if you have any > success with a 215/50. > > Bruce > '89 MR2 113K > '85 MR2 139K > I've just put on a set of Continental Sport Contact CZ91 215/45 R15s, and so far they feel pretty good. There's about 1 cm of clearance left between the sidewall and the shocks, and the tires fill the wheel wells pretty well. On my Modas 15x7, the width of the tires fill the edges of the rim so that it looks flush. Can't wait to try them out at speed:-) Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 3 Apr 1996 09:14:00 U From: "Dave Vespremi" Subject: me/mine/mods To: " " Name: David Vespremi Location: (currently) Budapest, Hungary Model: 1993 MR2 NA (California car, t-tops, loaded, 5 spd) Mods: MR2 Turbo Rear Strut Brace, Yoko AVS Intermediates email: dvespremi@graphisoft.hu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 19:28:54 -0800 From: Yoshi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: mk1:Eibachs& 215/40R16 rear and 205/40R16 MICKY THUTIYAKUL wrote: > > > >As the MKIs have no power > > >steering, the increase weight and grip of the wider tires/wheels make > > >holding the car straight on bad pavement significantly more pronounced > > >and requires more effort in correcting. My car has a tendency to follow > > >grooves in the road that I can't see. Set > > > > Yeah, this is pretty obvious on my MK1. It took a few miles, but I'm used to > > it. Some of the roads here in NYC suck, and the car can be a handful on a > > rainy day. Cornering is great on a smooth road. Lemme know if you have any > > success with a 215/50. > > > > Bruce > > '89 MR2 113K > > '85 MR2 139K > > > > I've just put on a set of Continental Sport Contact CZ91 215/45 R15s, and > so far they feel pretty good. There's about 1 cm of clearance left > between the sidewall and the shocks, and the tires fill the wheel wells > pretty well. On my Modas 15x7, the width of the tires fill the edges of > the rim so that it looks flush. Can't wait to try them out at speed:-) > > Later, > Micky > '89 SC MR2 Hi, I have a question with my my '89 MR2 (MK1). If I already have 215/40 R16 for rear and 205/40 R16 for my front, will Eibach fit? And how is the ride? The ride so far is pretty smooth with stock parts so far with not alot of CD skipping unless I hit a harsh pothole. Yoshi 103K '89 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 21:39:57 -0800 From: Gerald San Agustin To: DAbitol@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: formulas Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) / 5252 > >or > >>(weight)/(ET/5.825)3 > (3870) / (12.8/5.825)3= > 2.19x3=6.57 > 3870 / 6.57= 589.04hp hmmm I don't think so:( >>or >> >>(mph/234)3 x (weight) >(113.1/234)3=1.44 > 1.44 x 3870 = 5572.80hp Strike two > >Some One help me here, > >I'm doing these formula and for some reason I really doubt that my car has >5,5728.80hp:( >I'm using the HP=(mph/234)3 x (weight) > >(113.1/234)=.48 x 3 = 1.44 >Weight= 3870 x 1.44=5,5728.80 hmmm.. I don't think I'm up to that HP figure >YET:)~ > >I guess I'm the exception, unless SOMEBODY had a slight TYPO!!:) sorry, those threes are actually 'cubed' and not x3. I just couldn't figure out how to actually write it in plain text.... try it again.... hmmm.... 12.8 @ 113 mph... not bad..... BTW.... using the first formula, you have about 365 at the wheels. using the second, you have 437, which means you have a serious traction problem.... Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 16:40:08 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Hp & Torque Hiya all, There's a bit of talk over Hp vs Torque, so I was wondering if anyone had any actual dyno figures we could see to check on these theories. I'd like to see some figure from preferably a performance engine on an engine dyno, or failing that a (much as I distrust them) chassis dyno. They must have figures at many different rev points. I agree that there is theoretically a relationship between Hp & torque, but as engines cannot read I'd like to see their practice of the theory. :) FWIW, I'm on holidays from now (4pm, 3-4-96) to 16-4-96, but I can check up on what's going on through Paul Pyyvaara's address. (paulp@Bond.edu.au) The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 12:02:47 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: DOBI > TMer's, > I was wondering has anyone used performance products by DOBI? Anyone have > any criticizms on their products (Sway bars)? I got a catalog from them > yesterday, and I wasn't really impressed with their cosmetic stuff. Their > performance items are cheaper in price ($60/pr. for springs w/ 1" drop), > but I wonder about their quality. I was contemplating their sway bars 1" > for the front and 3/4" rear. Anyone know the stock diameter of the front > and rear sway bars on an '85 Celica GTS? > I was unimpressed with the Supra exhaust I bought from them years ago. It was poorly made, lacked critical brackets, and lasted only a few years (in So Cal!). Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Speedo on '81 Celica Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 2:22:32 PST Dave, You can use an 84 Celica dash. I may be going to the junkyard when I come back from my biz trip and do this mod to my 82 GT. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 02:31:28 -0800 To: Gary Hong From: David Subject: Re: Speedo on '81 Celica Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com You wouldn't happen to know how much of the dash I need do you Gary? At 02:22 AM 4/3/96 PST, you wrote: >Dave, > >You can use an 84 Celica dash. I may be going to the junkyard when I come >back from my biz trip and do this mod to my 82 GT. > >Gary > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: BBRANDT@tcmail.frco.com Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 08:10:41 -0600 Subject: Re: Wires To: "G. D. Aucott" , >I can't speak to the supercharged, but they make wires for my '86 NA. >My set is in the basement ready for installation as soon as my car's >out of storage Dave, Have you actually tried to install the wires? They sent me a set as well that they said were for the 4AG series, there is no difference in the SC & NA, but the length of the stand-offs was too long by almost an inch. I would be curious as to when you got your set because they said that they could no longer get the correct stand-off so you may have gotten some of the last ones available. Regards, BRB xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 10:05:32 -0500 From: Mark Sink To: Bill Sherwood Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque Bill Sherwood wrote: > > Hiya all, > There's a bit of talk over Hp vs Torque, so I was wondering if > anyone had any actual dyno figures we could see to check on these theories. > I'd like to see some figure from preferably a performance engine on an > engine dyno, or failing that a (much as I distrust them) chassis dyno. They > must have figures at many different rev points. > I agree that there is theoretically a relationship between Hp & torque, but > as engines cannot read I'd like to see their practice of the theory. :) > FWIW, I'm on holidays from now (4pm, 3-4-96) to 16-4-96, but I can check up > on what's going on through Paul Pyyvaara's address. (paulp@Bond.edu.au) > > The B Man. B Man, This is not theory.. this is FACT. Dyno's do not measure horsepower, they CALCULATE it, although there are some I think that actually measure it. If you look at a graph of power output from a dyno, the HP curve will be calculated with the SAME formula you call theory. So don't look to these graphs to disprove any formula's as they will be using them themselves. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 10:20:22 -0500 From: Mark Sink To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: mr2-interest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Trust Turbo Timer and Factory Alarm Just installed a Trust Turbo Timer, w/o the parking brake connection as i wasnt sure what to do there. A little help maybe? My main question is why doesn't the facory alarm get armed anymore? Does this happen to everyone, and can it be fixed? What good is the turbo if you don't have the car. I'd really like to solve this. I've never heard of this before with the Trust or HKS timers, so maybe it's just me. Thanks, mark xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 10:44:43 -0500 To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) Subject: DOBI Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com TMer's, I was wondering has anyone used performance products by DOBI? Anyone have any criticizms on their products (Sway bars)? I got a catalog from them yesterday, and I wasn't really impressed with their cosmetic stuff. Their performance items are cheaper in price ($60/pr. for springs w/ 1" drop), but I wonder about their quality. I was contemplating their sway bars 1" for the front and 3/4" rear. Anyone know the stock diameter of the front and rear sway bars on an '85 Celica GTS? Thanks. -frederick. '85 Celica GTS Convertible xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MAGEETC1@teomail.jhuapl.edu Date: Wed, 03 Apr 96 12:05:59 EST To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: DOBI (don't buy!) Dobi stuff is garbage. I bought one of there exhaust systems and it only lasted me 1.5 years before rust through. It had a 3 year warranty but they would only cover 50% of the cost of a new one and you had to ship the old one back. So you ended up paying half for another muffler and double shipping charges. I bought a Toyota one instead. On anti-sway bars... I have an 85 Supra which probably has the same rear suspension setup as the Celica GTS. I bought a 3/4" (old was about 1/2", front is about 3/4") rear bar from J.C. Whitneys which ended up being an ADDCO bar which is probably what DOBI sells. This bar had a different mounting configuration than stock and would not allow rotation of the bar at the ends. It ended up breaking off the bracket welded to the suspension because of this. Tom ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: DOBI Author: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) at .APL.and.BEYOND. Date: 4/3/96 11:40 AM TMer's, I was wondering has anyone used performance products by DOBI? Anyone have any criticizms on their products (Sway bars)? I got a catalog from them yesterday, and I wasn't really impressed with their cosmetic stuff. Their performance items are cheaper in price ($60/pr. for springs w/ 1" drop), but I wonder about their quality. I was contemplating their sway bars 1" for the front and 3/4" rear. Anyone know the stock diameter of the front and rear sway bars on an '85 Celica GTS? Thanks. -frederick. '85 Celica GTS Convertible xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: Re: mk1:Eibachs& 215/40R16 rear and 205/40R16 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 09:24:17 -0800 (PST) > I have a question with my my '89 MR2 (MK1). If I already have 215/40 > R16 for rear and 205/40 R16 for my front, will Eibach fit? And how > is the ride? The ride so far is pretty smooth with stock parts so far > with not alot of CD skipping unless I hit a harsh pothole. > > Yoshi > 103K '89 MR2 > The Eibach Pro springs don't really lower the car that much, so they should fit fine. Besides, the over all diameter of your wheel/tire setup is a bit smaller than when I had on 205/50 R15s, so clearance shouldn't be an issue. As for the ride, the springs are pretty stiff as compared to stock, and if you've still got original shocks/springs on, chances are, that those are probably worn by now, so changing to Eibachs will make the car feel a bit stiffer than it actually is. Also, you should change your shocks at the same time, as those originals may not be dampening as well as they use to, and may not interact well with the Eibachs. Wondering how the ride is with the 205 up front and 215 in the rear. Had 185 Fr/ 195 Re once, and while steering response increased, stability after turning decreased. Must be more pronounced with the wider tire setup. What brand are you using? Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: fmarsh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Frederick Marsh) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 13:55:42 EDT Subject: Re: DOBI Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > TMer's, > I was wondering has anyone used performance products by DOBI? Anyone have > any criticizms on their products (Sway bars)? I got a catalog from them > yesterday, and I wasn't really impressed with their cosmetic stuff. Their > performance items are cheaper in price ($60/pr. for springs w/ 1" drop), > but I wonder about their quality. I was contemplating their sway bars 1" > for the front and 3/4" rear. Anyone know the stock diameter of the front > and rear sway bars on an '85 Celica GTS? > > > -frederick, I have used the header for the Corolla GTS and Civic CRX and don't have a problem with them. The Corolla's is a copy of the TRD Tri-Y design and that for the CRX a copy of the Lightspeed and they both work pretty well. I also have a flex fan for a 240Z and this too looks OK, however, they are slow; you would have to order your stuff now to get it by almost the end of summer. ===================================================== Gregory Chan E-mail: GChan@Compserv.SenecaC.On.Ca 85 Corolla GTS & 73 Datsun 240Z Computer Support Specialist,Seneca College,Ont,Canada Tel: (416)491-5050 Ext 2129 Fax: (416)491-6596 "You break it, I'll fix it." ^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 13:15:33 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Filter Mod Update/Correction Hi folks, I wanted to let everyone who might be considering the Powermax filter conversion that I described some time ago what the actual lengths of the various pieces are. I was going from memory before and I measured them today -- it is so nice and sunny out I had to go look at my car in storage! It's definitely coming out of the garage this week... I can't wait anymore. Filter: 5 inches of filter, 1 3/4 inces of flange = 6 3/4 inch total length Rubber pipe: 3 1/4 inches long (I had previously said about 6 inches, sorry) Total length of pipe/AFM/filter = 16 inches. This puts my filter 1 inch from the side of the car (shock tower). I also measured the length of my spark plug wire connectors and will check the Magnecor wires I have at home and report back tomorrow. .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 11:48:43 -0800 From: Yoshi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: mk1:Eibachs& 215/40R16 rear and 205/40R16 MICKY THUTIYAKUL wrote: > > > I have a question with my my '89 MR2 (MK1). If I already have 215/40 > > R16 for rear and 205/40 R16 for my front, will Eibach fit? And how > > is the ride? The ride so far is pretty smooth with stock parts so far > > with not alot of CD skipping unless I hit a harsh pothole. > > > > Yoshi > > 103K '89 MR2 > > > > The Eibach Pro springs don't really lower the car that much, so they > should fit fine. Besides, the over all diameter of your wheel/tire setup > is a bit smaller than when I had on 205/50 R15s, so clearance shouldn't > be an issue. As for the ride, the springs are pretty stiff as compared > to stock, and if you've still got original shocks/springs on, chances > are, that those are probably worn by now, so changing to Eibachs will > make the car feel a bit stiffer than it actually is. Also, you should > change your shocks at the same time, as those originals may not be > dampening as well as they use to, and may not interact well with the > Eibachs. Wondering how the ride is with the 205 up front and 215 in the > rear. Had 185 Fr/ 195 Re once, and while steering response increased, > stability after turning decreased. Must be more pronounced with the wider > tire setup. What brand are you using? > > Later, > Micky > '89 SC MR2 The ride I have right now feels good without any loss of stability after turning. Before I changed the rear to 215/40/R16, I had 205/40/R16 just like the front; however, when I had 4 equal size tires, I felt more bumps than now driving "sometimes not too friendly" California streets. The brand of tires I'm using is BF Goodrich Euro Radial T/A I think. It's a pretty good tire since I experienced going through a spin out on the freeway trying to avoid getting hit from some lady driving a Honda Accord changing to my lane almost hitting me from the side (she was obviously not looking when she was planning to change lane). I felt pretty controlled through the 360's that I've gone through and came to a pretty good stop without hitting center divider. :) It was some rush when I saw an oncoming traffic while spinning... Anyway, enough with my story. Is there any particular brand of shocks you can suggest? Yoshi xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: RBC199@aol.com Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 17:10:49 -0500 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Powermax Filter Today Dave said: >Filter: 5 inches of filter, 1 3/4 inces of flange = 6 3/4 inch total length >Rubber pipe: 3 1/4 inches long (I had previously said about 6 inches, sorry) >Total length of pipe/AFM/filter = 16 inches. This puts my filter 1 inch from I ordered the Powermax filter and finally installed it. BUT...mine was 7" of filter, 1 3/4" of flange..overall 8 3/4". Rubber pipe 3 1/4" (standard 2" flexible coupling at any plumbing joint). I cut 3/4" off the air filter flange and 3/4" off the flexible coupling to gain clearance. The filter just touches the shock tower. I had to make up a couple brackets to hold the AFM as none of the original mounting points could be used. I suggest anyone else who is interested in this setup use a filter no larger than the setup Dave has, or it'll take a bit of finessing to make it fit. FWIW, most of the intake roar is muffled by the AFM (can't hear it over my homebrewed exhaust). Bruce RBC199@aol.com '89 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 15:46:03 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: LC Engineering Does anyone have the current address and phone number of LC Engineering? I heard they moved so where are they now? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 4 Apr 1996 08:13:13 U From: "Iwohara.Steve" Subject: FW: FW: Cams - MR2 4AGE To: "tm" Cc: "Hernandez.Andy" Bruce, How much did it cost to get the shims made for your 4AGE? I still haven't had any luck in California finding the oversized shims. I was thinking of finding shims from other vehicles and machining to fit. Unfortunately, a machinist said it is a labor intensive process requiring removal of the heat treatment and reapplication of the heat treatment. Steve iwohara@ssdgwy.mdc.com _______________________________________________________________________________ From: Christopher P. Myer on Wed, Apr 3, 1996 7:09 PM Subject: RE: FW: Cams - MR2 4AGE To: Iwohara.Steve Steve: Bruce Connelley (on the TM group) mentioned to me that he had shims made for his own efforts. I asked him to tell me what it cost him to do that, but I haven't heard back from him on that. You might want to post to TM and ask him yourself. He's in Australia, but I don't think that shipping a few shims would cost too much! Chris ------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------ Received: by c17m.mdc.com with SMTP;3 Apr 1996 19:09:25 U Received: from Nissan.Surf.Tach.Net (Nissan.Surf.Tach.Net [199.0.9.187]) by cyberspace.cyberauto.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) with SMTP id WAA08170 for ; Wed, 3 Apr 1996 22:08:07 -0500 Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 22:08:07 -0500 Message-Id: <199604040308.WAA08170@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> X-Sender: cmyer@cyberauto.com X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Version 2.0.3 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" To: "Iwohara.Steve" From: cmyer@CyberAuto.Com (Christopher P. Myer) Subject: RE: FW: Cams - MR2 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: lgaurmer@wic.net (Lyle Gaumer) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 17:29:59 -0700 Subject: 2 ltr MR2 Does anyone know if a 3ES series block will bolt to a 4AG series transaxel? I am looking for a way to increase power in my 85 MR2 and found a good 2 ltr 16 valve motor from a Celica and would like to try it in my car, but pulling the motor seems like a lot of work just to see if it will bolt up. Thanks in advance for any help Lyle Gaurmer, 85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 20:37:43 -0800 From: Gerald San Agustin To: lgaurmer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 2 ltr MR2 >Does anyone know if a 3ES series block will bolt to a 4AG series >transaxel? I am looking for a way to increase power in my 85 MR2 and >found a good 2 ltr 16 valve motor from a Celica and would like to try >it in my car, but pulling the motor seems like a lot of work just to >see if it will bolt up. Thanks in advance for any help > >Lyle Gaurmer, 85 MR2 a 3SGE will not bolt up to a normally aspirated 4AGE transmission. The 4AGZE does use the same transmission as the 3SGTE, the only difference being the bellhousing. So if you can acquire one along with the halfshafts, it should work. One note of caution, you might have to cutout a portion of the rear firewall (the wall between the engine and the trunk) to clear the intake runners of a 3SG/3SGT. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 20:55:37 -0800 From: Da Lurch To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: Robin Mach Location: Louisville, KY ( fundamentally ) Model: '77 Celica ST Engine: 20R Mods: Gasket matched head, polished the ports, ( stuff I could do for free with the tools I have ), rotting header w/ 2-1/2" exhaust all the way out, GT five speed tranny. Model: '82 Celica GT Engine: 22R Mods: Pure, bone stock ( so far ) Model: '93 4x4 ( Where I live, 4wd is a necessity, not a luxury sometimes) Engine: 22RE Mods: American racing 10x15 rims, 31" tires, 4" body lift email: robmach@aye.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 2 years! worth of back posts Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 02:54:19 -0500 From: Tom Julien I can't believe it's been this long, but the past 2 years of toyota-mods mail archives is now (finally!) on the TM web site: http://www.cyberauto.com/toyota-mods/posts/ It's nothing fancy, but it's a start. I'm working on threaded html versions and a searchable index (both automated), but it's a background task at present. Time to go clean up my personal mail folders... /************************************************************* Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com Engineering Unix Support Tel: 407-826-7685 Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL Fax: 407-826-1881 *************************************************************/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 09:59:56 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Magnecor Wires Question was asked: >Have you actually tried to install the wires? They sent me a set as >well that they said were for the 4AG series, there is no difference in >the SC & NA, but the length of the stand-offs was too long by almost >an inch. I would be curious as to when you got your set because they >said that they could no longer get the correct stand-off so you may >have gotten some of the last ones available. I measured my car's offset at 4.5 inches, and the Magnecor wire set I got from Chris Myer also measures 4.5 inches. Thus, it should be correct. I don't know if I got a rare set, but they should fit, and based on my previous experience with Magnecor they should work really well. .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 10:29:01 EST From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AG shims Can anyone tell me the diameter of the 4AG shims? I haven't pulled my engine apart yet and a machine shop neaby says he might have shims thick enough for the reground cams. I just need to know the diameter so he can check. Oh, and I've been told that some (or all) of my notes get posted with an extra line in between (like doublespaced), yet I don't type them that way and they don't post to my machine here or at home on AOL that way. Do my notes appear that way to you? Thanks. .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 08:18:42 -0800 From: Gerald San Agustin To: S and K Bagdon Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 2 ltr MR2 >>>Does anyone know if a 3ES series block will bolt to a 4AG series >>>transaxel? I am looking for a way to increase power in my 85 MR2 and >>>found a good 2 ltr 16 valve motor from a Celica and would like to try >>>it in my car, but pulling the motor seems like a lot of work just to >>>see if it will bolt up. Thanks in advance for any help >>> >>>Lyle Gaurmer, 85 MR2 >> >>a 3SGE will not bolt up to a normally aspirated 4AGE transmission. The 4AGZE >>does use the same transmission as the 3SGTE, the only difference being the >>bellhousing. So if you can acquire one along with the halfshafts, it should >>work. One note of caution, you might have to cutout a portion of the rear >>firewall (the wall between the engine and the trunk) to clear the intake >>runners of a 3SG/3SGT. >> >>Gerald San Agustin >>88 MR2 Twincharger >>Cyber Racing, So Cal. > >And how would you know all of this, hmm? Personal experience with the swap, >or you know enough about the 3SGE to know the dimensions? :) > >BTW, what's the difference between the 3SGE and 3SGTE? personal experience of course!! I wouldn't suggest anything I haven't either personally experienced or witnessed. If you don't believe me, call Toysport in Gardena California. Tell them I sent ya. (213) 755-1177. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 08:25:52 -0800 From: Gerald San Agustin To: "G. D. Aucott" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Magnecor Wires >>Have you actually tried to install the wires? They sent me a set as >>well that they said were for the 4AG series, there is no difference in >>the SC & NA, but the length of the stand-offs was too long by almost >>an inch. I would be curious as to when you got your set because they >>said that they could no longer get the correct stand-off so you may >>have gotten some of the last ones available. > >I measured my car's offset at 4.5 inches, and the Magnecor wire set I got >from Chris Myer also measures 4.5 inches. Thus, it should be correct. I >don't know if I got a rare set, but they should fit, and based on my previous >experience with Magnecor they should work really well. When Jacobs first came out with the (supposedly) 4AGZE wire set, I quickly test fitted them. I guess Jacobs didn't know that the supercharged engines have shorter boots. They figured all 4AGEs were identical. Anyways, that was almost a year ago. I'm surprised everyone is still having this same problem. Jacobs should have figured it out and either fixed the problem or not market the wires under 4AGZE. As far as Magnecor, as long as their R&D department test fit their wires (unlike Jacobs), I'm sure it shouldn't be a problem. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: Re: mk1:Eibachs& 215/40R16 rear and 205/40R16 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 09:38:36 -0800 (PST) > It's a pretty good tire since I experienced going through a spin out on > the freeway trying to avoid getting hit from some lady driving a Honda > Accord changing to my lane almost hitting me from the side (she was > obviously not looking when she was planning to change lane). I felt > pretty controlled through the 360's that I've gone through and came to a > pretty good stop without hitting center divider. :) It was some rush > when I saw an oncoming traffic while spinning... > > Anyway, enough with my story. Is there any particular brand of shocks > you can suggest? > > Yoshi > Isn't it funny, I have the same experiences with Honda drivers as you. Sometimes I just wanna go to the driver's side and yank out their turn signals seeing as they don't use it anyway. Eliminating this feature is something Honda engineers should conisder as a cost cutting method :-) Anyway, my setup uses tokico illumina shocks/ Eibach Pro springs, and it feels pretty good. The shocks are adjustable, so you can set it to how harsh a ride you want. But even at its softest setting, it's still a rough ride. Other people on the list commented that they did not prefer this combination and would opt for a "matched set" tokico shock/spring setup, but people I know with more experience on the subject than I have, recommend the Eibachs because they feel it's more durable and retain their compression better due to slightly thicker coils. Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 12:55:39 -0500 From: Mark Sink To: Patrick Mrowczynski Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Trust Turbo Timer and Factory Alarm My alarm is being armed now.. it's seems to work. It's strange, I have 2 ppl that saw it not arming, so it's not just me. But it's working 100% now. I didn't do anything. Patrick Mrowczynski wrote: > > I've heard quite a few people have problems getting their turbo timers to > work with ANY alarms, stock or aftermarket. Since they are not their to > arm the alarm, when the timer shuts down, the alarm won't arm. However, > someone mentioned that a strategic relay placement may solve the > problems. > > Anyone? > merle@kudonet.com > > On Wed, 3 Apr 1996, Mark Sink wrote: > > > Just installed a Trust Turbo Timer, w/o the parking brake connection > > as i wasnt sure what to do there. A little help maybe? > > > > My main question is why doesn't the facory alarm get armed anymore? > > Does this happen to everyone, and can it be fixed? What good is the > > turbo if you don't have the car. I'd really like to solve this. > > > > I've never heard of this before with the Trust or HKS timers, so maybe > > it's just me. > > > > Thanks, > > > > mark > > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: Re: mk1:Eibachs& 205/50 15's To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 10:04:30 -0800 (PST) > > Sounds like it looks GREAT. I'm doing some pretty major work to my motor now. > Ported head, extrude honed intake and bored throttle body, 268 duration 10mm+ > lift cams, shim under bucket lifters, bla bla bla...you get the idea. I'm > suspecting the A509's I have on won't last real long, and I'm guessing I'll > want more tire. Drop a note when you have a few miles on those Contis. I > raced a Moto Morini with Conti tires ten years plus ago, but never had any > experience with them on the road. > > Bruce RBC199@aol.com > '89 MR2 N/A > While you're at it, might as well add a turbo to your list of mods :) The Continentals feel alot like hi profile tires in the way they absorb bumps on the road. Seems to tame my suspension setup quite abit, making for a more comfortable ride. Quite a change from my p-zeros, which gave me a rock solid ride. My dashboard sunshade use to vibrate terribly at speeds over 110, but took it up to 130 this morning, and vibration was at a minimum. The grip is there when you need it, but feels a bit more "rubbery" than what I'm used to. Tires may need to be broken in a bit more. Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 14:52:52 -0800 (PST) From: Phillip Dang To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List Subject: more negative rear camber (how?) Hi modders, I recently had Eibach progressive rate springs and Tokico struts installed. The camber, cannot be changed, on the rear is now postive! I believe this is not a good idea for spirited driving. The tire person who did the 4W alignment after the equipment installation said I had two options to change the fixed, rear camber: camber discs and plates. I am not familiar with how these components bolt onto the rear. So which is better, the plates or discs? My car is a 87 Celica ST, approx. 1" lowered. The factory specs for the rear camber is between -1.3 and -0.3 degrees. Phil 3S-FE, 102K miles, autos xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 18:10:15 -0800 (PST) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Starlet: Plan of Attack Hiya everyone, Here is a kind of "short list" of planned mods to my car and I was wondering how the setup looks to you. I was wondering if there are any glaring omissions (or subtractions), and also need some opinions on the items on either side of the "or's", if you know what I mean. Also keep in mind my limited budget (I'm a student, if you know what I mean =) ------------------------------ [&=if budget permits..] *Chassis* -TRD race/rally shocks OR Terra Probe w/brakes, front OR...Corolla GTS front struts/brakes using adapter -TRD race/rally shocks OR KYB adjustable, rear -Shortened/racing springs (source...?) -TRD HD top mounts, front (from TRS) -TRD HD bushing set or other source (help!) &-GAB strut tower bars, f/r, or maybe i'll make some -U292 (4.10) OR U382 (4.30) OR '78 Celica (4?) rear end -Repco Metal Master Pads &-Stainless steel brake lines -Panasport wheels, 5.5x13", 40mm offset, with Yokohama tires ($$$!) OR TRD/WEDS 6x13" 10mm offset (don't know what these look like...and what's the correct offset anyway!?) *engine/powertrain* -Mikuni 40mm's with intake manifold and linkage, or equivalent -2" or 2.5" catback exhaust ('81 OEM is on last legs....) &-TRS or Isky 285/7.5 cam, springs (too hot for street..?) &-head work (whoa...serious $$$) _____ *future additions, i.e. when I have some _real_ dough* -Wide body kit- as seen on the "Wyse shoppers" Starlet on the TM web page...looking for a source -racing seat, Schroth 5 pt harness -6 pt bolt-in roll cage, looking for a source -perhaps a 4AG/T50 combo =) ------------------------------ Okay, enough wishful babbling for now. To anyone who can help me out, I am most appreciative! Thanks again! -Jayson xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: MK1 MR2 Street Prepared Setup To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 01:22:49 -0500 (EST) Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Everyone, I'm setting up my '85 MR2 for competitive C Street Prepared Class Solo II Autocross racing. I've been in C Stock for about two years now and have learned a lot about how the car handles on an autocross track. I've decided to move into street prepared and would like some suggestions on how to make the car pretty competitive while still keeping it "driveable" for the street since it's my daily driver. These are the C Street Prepared legal mods I have planned so far: Suspension setup: Tokico Illumina Shocks Eibach Progressive Springs Suspension Techniques Anti-Sway Bars TRD Bushings Sarizer Steering Kit Full Autocross/Street Alignment (camber -1 degree all around) Power Setup: TRD Header Mr.2 or Sebring Exhaust Muffler PowerMax Air Filter with intake mod MSD Ignition amp and coil Magnecore Wires Tires and Wheels: HERE'S THE REAL DILEMMA. I currently run Yokohama A008RSII's 185/60 14 on Panasport Pro Rally 5.5x14 wheels. This worked well for stock class. I'D REALLY LIKE TO KNOW what the best Wheel/Tire combination is for Street Prepared Class for the '85 MR2. It's been suggested to me by one person to get 13x8 wheels with 225/50 13 tires. Wheels in this size I was told are made by four companies: Progressive, Kaiser, Weld, and Monocoque. For the tires, I was told to go with Hoosier (radial or bias ply). Since I need to run progressive springs for street ride sake (I know race springs would be most competitive), I want to get the most competitive tire/wheel combination I can get. My main competition will be an '88 CRX and a '79 RX7, and these two cars are very fast on the track. ANY AND ALL HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Yokohama A032R To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 01:28:26 -0500 (EST) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest.uunet.uu.net@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Has anyone tried the Yokohama A032R tire yet? Is this the Advan Nexus I've heard about? Is it good for autocrossing in street prepared class? Anyone know how it compares to the A008RSII or Hoosier tires? Questions, Questions. (Sigh) :) Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 11:24:48 +0100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: christof@server.net4you.co.at (Chris Orasch) Subject: 91 MR2 Clutch Disc Can someone please tell me the number of splines and the diameter of the clutch disc used in the NA 91MR2 with 3S-GE engine. I also need to know the model-code and chassis No. for a 91MR2 turbo. Thanks ---Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 15:48:38 -0400 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: more negative rear camber (how?) > >So which is better, the plates or discs? > >My car is a 87 Celica ST, approx. 1" lowered. The factory specs for the >rear camber is between -1.3 and -0.3 degrees. Some early FWD Celicas had camber abjusting cams in the top bolt hole of the steering knuckle. See your dealer. There are camber adjusting bolts available for most late model Mac Pherson style applications. The toe will have to be reset after bolt installation. The bolt has a reduced diameter where the steering knuckle bolts to the strut. Grinding the bolts is also possible, but this is crude, and the bolts are then much more likely to corrode and seize in the knuckle. Mike Dowe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 07 Apr 1996 19:16:20 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: Toyota Performance Handbook Does anyone know where I can find a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook? I've been dying for a copy! Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Toyota Performance Handbook To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (David) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 23:18:01 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Does anyone know where I can find a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook? > I've been dying for a copy! Thanks, Dave > Dave, I picked mine up in a Barnes & Noble bookstore in the automobile section. It has some good stuff in it and is worth the money. Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: pitaro@ozemail.com.au Date: Mon, 08 Apr 96 19:40:35 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods G'day, Details are as follows: Name : Harry Pitaro Location : Melbourne, Australia Model : November 1987 MR2 Engine : 4AGE Mods : None at present. Considering Suspension & Engine Mods. email : pitaro@ozemail.com.au Kindest Regards, Harry Pitaro. _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 07:18:32 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Re: Toyota Performance Handbook David, Here's how to order direct from the publisher. Classic Motorbooks P. O. Box 1, Osceola, WI 54020 Toll-free Hot Line: 1-800-826-6600 Toyota Performance Handbook ISBN 0-87938-320-8 $18.95 US Happy reading. Monte >Does anyone know where I can find a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook? >I've been dying for a copy! Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 09:32:24 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Toyota Performance Handbook On Sun, 7 Apr 1996, David wrote: > Does anyone know where I can find a copy of the Toyota Performance Handbook? > I've been dying for a copy! Thanks, Dave My public library had a copy and I just checked it out for a month. interesting reading. - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation............ Bad Command or Filename. Go stand in the corner. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 08 Apr 96 12:03:37 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: owner Subject: Aftermarket Turbos / Sport Turbo Upgrades Hi all, I pulled off the intake hose to my turbo this weekend and found that my cartridge had play in it.... ie: I need to either rebuild my turbo or replace it. I have asked around and spoken to many of the dealers in SCC and Turbo Mag and gotten prices on different turbos ranging from 2300 to 895. Anyone out there have any advice on type and or about how much it should cost me?? Also... how difficult is it to put in?? Can /should I try to do it myself?? Thanks in advance for any input. -Larry S. -91' T - too many miles :( - 86,000 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 12:52:08 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: aly abulkheir Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: Yokohama A032R Tire Rack as a picture of it.. no prices. It says for "Road Racing" VERY BIG tread blocks. Only 3 blocks across the width of the tire. Lots of contact area. Its tread design doesnt "look" as a gressive as the Potenza S-02, but the A032 looks to have less grooves, and more rubber on the road.. a very grippy looking tread. mark sink xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 11:54:51 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Darin Hamilton Subject: tire recommendation needed I need to replace my VERY bald 195/50-15s, and I am looking for a recommendation. What I would like to find is a good tire with the following characteristics (in order of importance): - low price - good all-weather performance (including light to medium snow) - "V" speed rating or better (although "Z" would probably be out of my price range) - decent treadwear (25-30k miles is acceptable) My car is a daily driver (all year), and I don't race at all. Climate here is fairly dry, but we do get a little snow in the winter. My budget is about US$100 per tire. Thanks! Darin '86 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 11:13:50 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: grubinski@grubinski.seanet.com (Mike Gruber) Subject: me/mine/mods Hi! name: Mike Gruber location: Seattle, Washington USA model: 1988 Supercharged MR2 engine: 4AGZE mods: engine: TRD header, HKS exhaust, K&N filter Used to have an HKS pulley but removed it since it was illegal in the class that I autocross in. suspension: TRD springs, GAB adjustable shocks, ST adjustable swaybars F&R 15x7 wheels and 195/50-15 Yokohama AVS tires (street) 13x9 rear, 13x8 front wheels and 225/45-13 Hoosier tires (autocross) interior: 6-point 3" wide racing harness email: grubinski@grubinski.seanet.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: taltaji@junix.ju.edu (Tariq Altajir) Subject: Sarizer Steering Kit To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 16:17:17 -0400 (EDT) I'm setting my '85 MK 1 for autocrossing in Bahrain, Persian Gulf. We don't have any restrictions for modifications and I'm having some trouble. First, I've heard about a Sarizer Steering Kit, what is it? Is it a quick Rack or does it change the geometry. Second question: I want to put some big sticky tires on the car. What size would be recommended and what offset should I use. I've heard of people putting 13 inch wheels on. Would that be better than 14 or 15 inch wheel. The trouble is that autocrossing back home is not the same as it is here in the U.S. A run is about 3min. long and the track is very fast. It is sort of like a mini road rally and the tarmac is not very smooth. Could anybody please help me with the tire/wheel selection. Thanks Tariq Altajir e-mail taltaji@junix.ju.edu '85 Mk 1 Mods- S.T. Springs Koni Adjustable shock TRD Bushings Sachs Rally Clutch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: 101577.2305@compuserve.com Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 16:23:03 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Rim and Tyre upgrade for MR2 GT I have a 1990 MR2 GT, which I am treating as a project car and hope to upgrade to around 300BHP eventually. I have recently purchased the car with a set of dodgy remolds on the original 14inch rims. As standard the car should have: Front Tyre -195/65HR14 Wheel-14x6 Rear Rear-205/60HR14 Wheel-14x7 As I intend upgrading to the above sort of BHP, could anyone recomend the optimum tyre and rim configuration? I am not interested in comfort or tyre wear, and was thinking of 225/40ZR front and 235/40ZR rear on 16x7.5 rims. But this leave the front overtyred? Any help welcomed.. Thanks, Richard Hopewell. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods , From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 8 Apr 96 17:48:58 EDT Subject: Re: Yokohama A032R and other tire things There're quite a few DOT-legal competition tires available now. There's the defacto autocross and road race BFG Comp T/A R1 230, Hoosier has introduced an autocross and a road racing tire, Yokohama still offers the A-008RS, RS II and now the new A032R, and Toyo has soft compound tires available. I also recently received the Tire Rack's magazine/flyer. I called the Tire Rack to ask them what's goin' on. I asked a person there, Bill Ozinga (he can be reached over the Internet at bozinga@aol.com), who's knowledgable about competition tires applications. He gave me the line on the new Yokohama A032R. It's a road racing tire. Yokohama envisions it to be used as both a dry road racing tire shaved, and a rain tire at full tread depth. So you'd have two sets of wheels with the tires set up as mentioned and swapped out as conditions required. Bill said that in their testing at the Willow Springs road race course, the A032R was two seconds a lap faster than the A-008RS. That's a lot of time. Bill said the tire is a totally different design--carcass, compound, tread, etc.--from the A-008 competition tire, but I didn't press for details so I don't know specifically how the tires are different. Bill also mentioned that their testing showed more regular, more consistent, more predictable wear charactistics compared to the BFG. Might be a nice tire. Might be a good autocross tire, too. The BFG R1 230 is a road-racing compound, after-all, and autocross folks are still using them and winning on them after the demise of the much loved softer compound BFG R1 226 autocross tire. Yokohama is clearly looking to compete in the BFG space with the A032R. As far as the A-008 RS II's for autocross, very few people are using Yokohamas at all at the national level. The tire of choice is still the BFG R1 230. I remember Internet reports from the National SCCA Solo championships the year before last. The reports mentioned that the performance of the Yokohamas was very poor, and some folks were speculating that if Yokohama didn't have a competitive tire to the BFG offerings, they'd be out of the autocross scene altogether. Yokohama has got a new tire in the A032R, and we'll just have to see how it does. There might be other things creating the ubiquitousness of the BFG tires other than that they're simply a superior tire, but I don't really know enough to comment. Hoosier is quite respected for it's full slicks, and you'll see Hoosier slicks on prepared autocross cars. I do seem to recall reports some time ago from some autocross folks who were testing prototypes of some Hoosier autocross tire or other. These may have been the prototypes of the DOT competition tires, but I don't recall for sure. These earliest reports said that Hoosier hadn't quite gotten the compound right yet, and the BFG was still the tire of choice. That was a long time ago, and I'd strongly suspect things have changed. I did see some folks running Hoosiers for stock autocross classes at an event I attended in Philadelphia a couple of weekends ago. This must have been the new Hoosier DOT tires, but I didn't inquire about them. I don't know anything about the Toyo offering. It'll be a trick to displace the BFG R1. Some one will need to offer better tire, a better contingency program, better event support, establishing the tire as a spec tire, etc., etc. But there're more offerings now than in recent years, and they look attractive. We'll have to see how things pan out. But for now, the safe choice, if the unadventerous choice, is the BFG R1. And, you know, unless you're at the driver skill level where you drive consistently and quickly enough that a tire difference is the thing keeping you from going faster and beating the folks you want to beat, and likewise for these people you want to beat, probably any of these tires would work well. A single mistake, like a misjudged braking, will incur a larger time penalty than a change of tires. Just a note: you really don't want to run an autocross tire on the road, or for club road racing events, unless you have a really light car, like an 1100lb Lotus Seven. Autocross tires aren't designed for the temperatures generated by sustained high speeds; they get slippery when outside of their designed operating temperature range, and there's also the risk of tire failure. Have fun, - Steven xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: RamziM2@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 23:02:32 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Filter Mod Update/Correction Wouldn't shortning the rubber pipe actually decrease power. I heard that the longer the pipe the more speed can build up before it enters the engine. Ramzi 86 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 21:50:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Phillip Dang To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List Subject: Re: more negative rear camber (how?) Hi Mike, On Sun, 7 Apr 1996 mdowe@wchat.on.ca wrote: > Some early FWD Celicas had camber abjusting cams in the top bolt hole of the > steering knuckle. > I don't have any problems with the front, just the back's positve camber. The back's camber cannot be adjusted. Should I go with plates or discs to correct for negative camber? Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 09 Apr 96 11:33:35 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: Stupid Question Hi all, I know that this question will make me look like a complete idiot, but it won't be the first time. I have a TVVC, but never had the instructions and I'm adjusting it, but I don't know which direction is open/lower and which one is close/higher. I know that I'll probably be totally bombarded with replys, but that's why we're here. Thanks for the info. -Larry S. -91T -too many miles :-( 84,000 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 09 Apr 96 11:37:03 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: Anyone got any old stuff?? Hi all, I was wondering if anyone out there had and was interested in selling any of the following: 1) sport turbo (pref a direct bolt on) 2) EVC or Greddy equivalent 3) FCD (either Greddy or HKS) (is there a difference. Quality or other??) Send all reply's to --->103617.1033@compuserve.com Thanks -Larry S. -91T - In search of stuff! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: 1987 MR2 Suspension Queries To: pitaro@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 13:18:51 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Hi, > > I still have the original struts and springs in my MR2 which by now > are getting pretty soft. The car has been used in some club racing but > is only used now for a bit of fun around tight mountain roads. > > Can someone please advise me whether I should replace the springs, > struts or both? Are there any major issues I should be aware of? > Also, is there a preferred brand? > > Kindest Regards, > Harry Pitaro. > _____________________ > pitaro@ozemail.com.au > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Hi Harry, I'm using the Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable shocks and I really like them. The adjustability allows you to make the car ride pretty stiff or pretty soft depending on if your just driving around or if your racing. They cost me about $100 a piece and I changed them myself with a Haynes repair manual. They made a world of difference. When I took the original shocks out, they were covered with oil, completely shot. I bought them from Autotrend in Heampstead, Long Island, NY. I'm planning on changing my springs this summer, but I'm still deciding whether to go with race springs or progressives. Either way though, I'll most probably go with Eibachs. Springs will reduce body roll and make the car handle noticeably better. Hope this helps, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 09:28:42 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: flywheel I am presently looking for a lightened flywheel for my turboed 18RG, the question being how light to go ? The car is a daily driver that does club sprints, hill climbs and motor khanas so I have to keep the motor fairly flexible. The standard flywheel weighs a heafty 12 kgs, which in the past I have machined 2-3 kgs off and still kept my feet attached to my ankles. The turbo motor doesn't need the high rpm of my earlier non turbo motors so I might be able to lose a bit more weight without the thing flying to pieces but I would rather get a steel flywheel for saftey's sake. TRD list a lightened steel flywheel for an 18RG which weighs just 4 kg, this seems a bit light for street use, would the thing still idle ? Alternatively, has anyone bought a Tilson flywheel or had one made and what would be a suitable flywheel weight for a street/race 2 litre ? Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 01:38:37 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: William Hall Location: work: Charlotte, NC live: Rock Hill, SC Models: 91 MR2 turbo, 85 MR2, and 87 toyota pickup. Engine: 3S-GTE Mods: None as of yet, but I'm very eager to begin building up the 91T. E-Mail: wh_hall@msn.com As you can tell from owning 3 toyotas, I dearly love these vehicles. I had grown so attached to my 85 that I could not part with it when my 91T arrived. I enjoy driving both, because they drive so drastically different (no news for you guys I'm sure). I am about to begin on upgrading my 91T and this group seems perfect for me to learn about the best products on the market. I do all normal maintenance my self: oil change (Mobil 1), spark plugs, distributor cap, valve cover gasket, thermostat, etc... but I'm pretty inexperienced with much more than that. I am eager to learn and this seems like a perfect to start. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: pitaro@ozemail.com.au Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 11:46:25 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 1987 MR2 Suspension Queries Hi, I still have the original struts and springs in my MR2 which by now are getting pretty soft. The car has been used in some club racing but is only used now for a bit of fun around tight mountain roads. Can someone please advise me whether I should replace the springs, struts or both? Are there any major issues I should be aware of? Also, is there a preferred brand? Kindest Regards, Harry Pitaro. _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 22:11:57 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Steering Hi. Does anyone know if it's possible to rebuild a rack and pinion from an MKI? Mine "clunks" and the replacement unit I got is no good either. If not, does anyone have a spare? Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 00:39:13 -0400 To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Patrick Ellis Subject: Stereo Questions Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I just recently bought an 89 Corolla GTS special (all power, sunroof, cruise, wheels) and want to replace the stereo and speakers and have a couple of questions: 1: I heard that the from speakers are 4" and have a weird caddy-cornered mounting. Has anyone replaced these speakers and could reccommend speakers, work-arounds? 2: The back speakers are 5"?!?!?! not 5 1/4" has anyone been able to fit 5.25's in and if not, who makes good coaxial 5"s? 3: My stereo is a 2 part, ie. the tuner is separate from the cassette. Is there anyway to save the cassette when i replace the tuner with my JVC CD deck? Any other suggestions will be appreciated. Also: when the car is cold, it tends to idle at 2500+rpms, is this normal? cause when it warms up, it falls to around 1200. I was told that i might have a sticking throttle body. Also the engine seems to get louder and faster than it seems to need to be, ie loud and pushing 3500rpms in 2nd gear at 30mph.. Maybe im just not used to the power (just got rid of an 89 Honda CRX hf (62hp) that redlined at 5000rpm). One last thing, does it harm the car to take it to higher sub-redline speeds (~6000rpm) where i experience better torque? o.k. thats enough spamming for now.. thanks -=patrick ellis=- -=u3020beh@grove.ufl.edu=- ------------------------ -='lil blu is gone, nu-red is here=- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 08:58:04 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Stereo Questions *** Resending note of 04/10/96 02:00 You wrote: Also: when the car is cold, it tends to idle at 2500+rpms, is this normal? cause when it warms up, it falls to around 1200. I was told that i might have a sticking throttle body. Also the engine seems to get louder and faster than it seems to need to be, ie loud and pushing 3500rpms in 2nd gear at 30mph.. ---------------------------------- My MR2 does the same thing. Ice cold, WHAMMO -- 2500 RPM. It takes a while to idle down to 1200, then eventually comes to rest around 800 rpm. I do believe this is normal... My friend made the switch from CRX to MR2 and he said the same things you are. BTW, MR2 and Corolla both have the 4AGE eng. Oh, and when my throttle body was dirty my idle went DOWN to 500 rpm, not up. I cleaned it and with no other adjustments it went happily to 800 rpm. Hope this helps! Dave A. daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "BARCZAK JAMES A" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 07:25:46 CST6 Subject: Re: Idle, redlines....89 GTS > Also: when the car is cold, it tends to idle at 2500+rpms, is this normal? > cause when it warms up, it falls to around 1200. I was told that i might > have a sticking throttle body. Also the engine seems to get louder and > faster than it seems to need to be, ie loud and pushing 3500rpms in 2nd gear > at 30mph.. > One last thing, does it harm the car to take it to higher sub-redline speeds > (~6000rpm) where i experience better torque? to answer your first question, it is perfectly normal for your car to idle at higher rpm when cold. Once the engine warms up, then the idle automatically goes down to normal. However, normal idle for your car (with a 5-speed) should be around 800rpm, not 1200. There is an idle adjust screw on the throttle body that you can turn down your rpms. Second, you experience the highest torque peak for your motor at around 4500 rpm, not 6000rpm. (at 6000rpm you are experiencing the horsepower peak.) If you look at things objectively, you can understand that if you are always bouncing your engine off the rev. limiter, then you will most likely take some life out of your engine. There is really no hard and fast rule about how long your engine lasts at high rpm...it all depends on your maintenance, current engine condition, etc etc. Jim xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 07:51:15 CST From: "Grace, Eric" To: toyota-l@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Stereo Questions >I just recently bought an 89 Corolla GTS special (all power, sunroof, >cruise, wheels) and want to replace the stereo and speakers and have a >couple of questions: >1: I heard that the from speakers are 4" and have a weird caddy-cornered >mounting. Has anyone replaced these speakers and could reccommend speakers, >work-arounds? I have replaced the 4" front speakers with Pioneer separates consisting of a 4" wooder and a 1" tweeter. They sound best when you put an additional capacitor across the 4" driver to block the low bass (below 200 Hz) >2: The back speakers are 5"?!?!?! not 5 1/4" has anyone been able to fit >5.25's in and if not, who makes good coaxial 5"s? Once again, I used Pioneer separates. 5.25" Woofer with 1" tweeter. >3: My stereo is a 2 part, ie. the tuner is separate from the cassette. Is >there anyway to save the cassette when i replace the tuner with my JVC CD >deck? I don't think it would be worth keeping the factory tape. You could get much better quality sound for a little more money with an aftermarket deck. My car is a 1988 FX16-GTS so your mounting may be slightly different. I have a Sony XR-U770 tape/cd-changer controller. Eric Amazin' Grace xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 11:27:25 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AG Head Gaskets To the list, I have changed my 4AG 9.4:1 standard head gasket for an HKS steel one, for any of you out there who want to know how to (or not to) do it here are a few tips I promised Chris I would post. 1. The head bolts require a VERY long reach 10mm socket (at least 1.5 inch) and it must be very thin. 2. HKS did not send me any torque settings, TRD says 47-55Ft pounds 3. Please take care not to put the gasket in backwards, if you do the engine runs and pumps the oil out of the block onto the floor at a great rate. 4. Have a full metric die set on hand as the bolts into the head that are near water will break off and need to be redrilled. 5. Buy a very large new battery or you wont be able to start your AE86 when it gets hot. 6. Replace the O rings in the dissy and the small pipe from the thermostat 7. Fully remove the wiring loom FIRST. 8. Do not overtorque the CAM timing bolts and clamp the belt after marking so it will go back the way it went it. 9. Seriously consider never doing this in the car on a FWD AE82!!! Or MR2, (sorry Harry P) I'm sorry if you have sent me mail but i havent answered, this is a mainframe and after 26 pages it dumps the notes. I have 26 today which means some has been lost. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: flywheel Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 09:57:00 PDT Hi Justen! I once had 2T-GEU and bored to 90.5 and fitted with 3T "systems" so it was a bit ower 2 liter. There was also Garret TO3 installed etc. I had in that engine a lightened flywheel - it was lightened from 10-12 kg to ~5 kg! I also had kinda centerforce pressureplate with copper (4 pad) disk! I didn't notice very big difference from stock flywheel (I'm not sure if I never drove the stock flywheel:), but this lightened flywheel never was a problem in any ways - idle was good and steady 1000rpm and the flywheel never broke down. Hopefully this helps u a bit :) In my experience (2TG) I could say that flywheel can't get too light...eh...?! :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. My friend machined that flywheel and he worked 3 hours with it... :) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: flywheel Date: 10. 04. 1996 9:28 I am presently looking for a lightened flywheel for my turboed 18RG, the question being how light to go ? The car is a daily driver that does club sprints, hill climbs and motor khanas so I have to keep the motor fairly flexible. The standard flywheel weighs a heafty 12 kgs, which in the past I have machined 2-3 kgs off and still kept my feet attached to my ankles. The turbo motor doesn't need the high rpm of my earlier non turbo motors so I might be able to lose a bit more weight without the thing flying to pieces but I would rather get a steel flywheel for saftey's sake. TRD list a lightened steel flywheel for an 18RG which weighs just 4 kg, this seems a bit light for street use, would the thing still idle ? Alternatively, has anyone bought a Tilson flywheel or had one made and what would be a suitable flywheel weight for a street/race 2 litre ? Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: flywheel Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 10:27:00 PDT Sending this again becouse I get a strange error message! Hi Justen! I once had 2T-GEU and bored to 90.5 and fitted with 3T "systems" so it was a bit ower 2 liter. There was also Garret TO3 installed etc. I had in that engine a lightened flywheel - it was lightened from 10-12 kg to ~5 kg! I also had kinda centerforce pressureplate with copper (4 pad) disk! I didn't notice very big difference from stock flywheel (I'm not sure if I never drove the stock flywheel:). Anyway, this lightened flywheel never was a problem in any ways - idle was good and steady 1000rpm and the flywheel never did broke down. I though used extra "bolts/pinns" (~3cm of the valvebody) to secure the fit to the cranksaft - one of my friends ones teared the flywheel apart from cranksaft (it was attached only with stock bolts) that's why I installed those two extra secure "bolts/pinns" with the stock bolts to keep things together :) Hopefully this helps u a bit :) In my experience (2TG) I could say that flywheel can't get too light...eh...?! :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. My friend machined that flywheel and he worked 3 hours with it... :) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: flywheel Date: 10. 04. 1996 9:28 I am presently looking for a lightened flywheel for my turboed 18RG, the question being how light to go ? The car is a daily driver that does club sprints, hill climbs and motor khanas so I have to keep the motor fairly flexible. The standard flywheel weighs a heafty 12 kgs, which in the past I have machined 2-3 kgs off and still kept my feet attached to my ankles. The turbo motor doesn't need the high rpm of my earlier non turbo motors so I might be able to lose a bit more weight without the thing flying to pieces but I would rather get a steel flywheel for saftey's sake. TRD list a lightened steel flywheel for an 18RG which weighs just 4 kg, this seems a bit light for street use, would the thing still idle ? Alternatively, has anyone bought a Tilson flywheel or had one made and what would be a suitable flywheel weight for a street/race 2 litre ? Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 14:58:45 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 272 cams Hello all. Does anyone out there have experience with HKS 272 cams? Any details would be great. Thanks! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: taltaji@junix.ju.edu (Tariq Altajir) Subject: Wheel offsets To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 15:54:53 -0400 (EDT) I'm trying to get some wheels for my car. '85 Mk1 I've got ST springs on it so I'm not sure what size and offset are best. Does anybody know what offset to use with 7*15" wheel and if its possible to use wider wheels in a 14" diameter and what offsets. Thanks. Tariq AlTajir E-mail: Taltaji@junix.ju.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: My Old Stiff Steering Prob' Solved. Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 13:54:20 PDT You may remember that I had a problem with my steering becoming very stiff in certain places. It was the universal joint on the steering column, it was totally seized in one direction and quite free in the other. A new UJ solved the problem. Thanks for the help. Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Ignition ? Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 14:25:07 PDT >Hi group, > > I was reading an old 'MAX POWER' magazine and discovered a >section on ignition amplifiers and stuff. They beleive that you can >get 2-3hp extra at the wheels just by putting a new ignition coil and >amplifier. Also they suggested that you could get another 2hp ish by >widening the gap on the spark plugs from 32 to 40 ish, I can't >remember the exact figures. > >If anyone is interested I will dig the info out and post it to the >group. > >Tony York Tony, I know this has been a LONG time ago, but I would be interested in seeing this posted either to the group or just to me. In either event, I will put it in the "ignition amps" archive file (eventually goes to ftp). Thanks. Monte =============================================================== My hard drive has been cleaned up since then. Has anyone got a copy of this email ? If knowbody has a copy I will re-type the article for you. Can anyboby help ? Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 101000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 18:53:17 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig A Terlau To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Performance Mufflers Has anyone tried the race-series mufflers made by Edlebrock? If so, how are they as far as sound level and performance. What about the performance mufflers made by Hooker? Chris, can you supply these? Thanks! Craig. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 20:27:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: Speedo on '81 Celica To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Dave, To answer your question: YES! If I am not mistaken, the dash board / speedo on the 81 Celica is the same as the 80 Celica, which also goes to 85 mph max. I found a speedo from a 78 (or 79) Celica that goes to 120 mph (more than adequate), and installed it in my 80 Celica. The nice thing is that the "revolutions per mile" are the same for the 120 mph speedo I installed and the original 1980 speedo, so no other mods are required. The rating is printed on the front of the speedo, at the very bottom. You may need to remove the dash to see it. If my memory is correct, it is something like 1023 revs/mile. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 03:09:13 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: Re: Speedo talk At 12:50 PM 4/11/96, you wrote: >I have replacedthe stock 3.9:1 rear end in my car with 4.7:1 gears. >The original tire on the car were 185/70 series 14-inch. Now it has 195/50 15". > >The speedo is waaaaaay off. It shows 100 mph (160 km/h) when it should be 70 >mph (112 km/h). How do I fix it without changing wheel size? Is there a >speedo gear-set that I can use, or maybe an adaptor? If so, where can I get >one? BTW, the transmission is a 5-speed W-50. I have the same tranny in my '81 Celica (i think). This indeed would be valuable information! Dave '81 Celica 22R xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 03:31:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Wes Shew Subject: me/mine/mods To: Toyota-Mods mailing list Wes shew Vancouver,BC Canada 1994 Supra non-turbo no mods schumi@vcn.bc.ca I have not yet acquired my above mentioned dream car, but I have a keen interest in what performance mods are available and for the 1994 Supra Turbo. Hopefully what I learn from this list will help in my decision as to what model to choose for a dual purpose street and auto-x car. Yours in motorsport, Wes Shew [macher :-) ] xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 07:45:29 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 272 Cams - Oops! Hi everyone. On my original posting, I forgot to mention that I was asking about the HKS 272 cams for the 4AGE engine - a minor detail! It usually helps to say which Toyota you're talking about! Sorry! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 (with a 4AGE!) Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 17:35:51 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Warning Lights > like the ABS and Air Bag and P/S. I know that the power > steering in the car is electric, so that didn't bother me > too much, but needless to say, the car was dead. > Yesterday when I got home from work, in the light, > I checked the oil. Sure enough it was low. I added > 1 1/2 quarts to bring it back to good. I bought a brandy > spankin new DieHard battery and figured I'd be good > to go. All things were fixed and the engine was running > smoothly, but the warning lights didn't go out! What the > hell is going on??? do these need to be reset somehow? > Does anyone know how?? Has this ever happened to > anyone else?. > > Please let me know if anyone has a solution to this problem. > Thanks > Larry S > 103617,1033@compuserve.com > Perhpas your alternator is dead. What's the terminal voltage at the battery with the engine at 2000 rpm? Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 11 Apr 96 08:37:04 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: Warning Lights Hello all, Once again I am at my witts end with my car. Two nights ago, in the HEAVY snow, I was driving along at a slow pace when all of the sudden my add oil light and my battery light came on. I thought to myself that maybe the battery was on it's last leg this time (The battery is about 4 years old, and has crapped out on me before) and perhaps the lights weren't functioning properly. I pulled over into the nearest gas station to check my oil, and I really couldn't tell in the dark. Being that I was only about 2 miles from home I went home. After I pulled into the driveway, i turned the car off and tried to start it again. DEAD! By now a few other lights had come on like the ABS and Air Bag and P/S. I know that the power steering in the car is electric, so that didn't bother me too much, but needless to say, the car was dead. Yesterday when I got home from work, in the light, I checked the oil. Sure enough it was low. I added 1 1/2 quarts to bring it back to good. I bought a brandy spankin new DieHard battery and figured I'd be good to go. All things were fixed and the engine was running smoothly, but the warning lights didn't go out! What the hell is going on??? do these need to be reset somehow? Does anyone know how?? Has this ever happened to anyone else?. Please let me know if anyone has a solution to this problem. Thanks Larry S 103617,1033@compuserve.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 06:11:49 -0700 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Silver State Classic To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On the MR-2 digest there were some people writing of running the Silver State Classic race out in Nevada. I've compeated in the event 4 times. May '92 , May 94, Sept. '94 and May '95. I drove my '87 turbo MR-2 in each on thease events except for the Sept. '94 event in which I navigated the race in a '93 Dodge Viper. If anyone is interested in the EXACT details of what the race is like I would be more than happy to share my experances with them. My best finish was 5th place in my car and 3rd place in the Viper. It is a very enjoyable and rewarding event. It can truly test you and your machine, and find the limits of both. Thanks John Welch '87 Turbo MR-2 squelch@ix.netcom.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 10:06:59 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Warning lights You wrote: >to go. All things were fixed and the engine was running >smoothly, but the warning lights didn't go out! What the >hell is going on??? do these need to be reset somehow? >Does anyone know how?? Has this ever happened to >anyone else?. You need a new alternator, it's dead. This happened to me about a year ago and I was just as confused. I'm not sure why 3 lights come on (two bright, one kinda dim) when you lose voltage, but that's what happens. It also happened to Chris B. I got a remanufactured alternator at the local store, and I had the choice of a $110 or $140 model. I figured there couln't be much diff so I got the $110 one. WRONG! With this one the lights would come back on at idle cuz it couln't hold voltage. I ended up replacing it (under warranty) with the $140 one and it's been perfect ever since. I suppose as an alternative you could replace the brushes in the unit, but I'm not familiar with that and I needed it fixed immediately. .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 07:08:17 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: Tariq Altajir Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Wheel offsets >I'm trying to get some wheels for my car. '85 Mk1 >I've got ST springs on it so I'm not sure what size and offset >are best. > >Does anybody know what offset to use with 7*15" wheel and if its >possible to use wider wheels in a 14" diameter and what offsets. >Thanks. for a 7 inch wheel, you should look for offsets between 35 - 38 mm. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: RBC199@aol.com Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 10:44:38 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Filter Mod Update/Correction In a message dated 96-04-11 08:27:36 EDT, Ramzi said: >Wouldn't shortning the rubber pipe actually decrease power. I heard that >longer the pipe the more speed can build up before it enters the engine. Then Timo said: >Don't really know how it actually works in real life and in this case, >Basicly if u want torgue then long intake header is good and if u want high >hp's with high rews then short and "large" intake is good. This is why there In conjuction with some exhaust and minor ignition mods made to date, it appears to have gained a few HP over the factory air plumbing. Bruce..................RBC199@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 11 Apr 96 11:06:06 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: MKII Alternator Hi all, The general concensus (is that spelled right??) is that my alternator is shot! If anyone out there knows where I can get one cheap and fast, please e-mail me. I'd like to have it done for the weekend and my mechanic said he'd do it tomorrow if he can get the part. Toyota wants $314!! Thanks for the help. Larry S. 91' Turbo (at that point where everything starts to go!) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 10:51:10 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Head Gaskets (HKS) and Shims To those that asked, the HKS head gaskets that are made of steel have a thickness of 7 mm and are made of three (seperable) layers. On the early 4AG's this will raise compression from 9.4 to 10:1 and hence increase horsepower if the octane and permits. On the later,10.3 and VVT motor,10.5 you dont need to do this when running on unleaded as the octane is not high enough to exploit it. Also the guys in Europe have different pistons and had 10:1, 124 BHP as standard, to run on lower grade fuel they had to disconnect a wire in the boot of the early MR2's. Still higher compression can be achieved in the early motor by seperating the three steel HKS layers and using only two. There is sufficient piston valve clearance for standard lift cams. As for shims I had a set of large ones made up 10 years ago for the 2TG's. They cost me $200 Australian at the time, they were hardened. I'm looking into this again for the the 4AG base circle grinds. To get the HKS specs for the 272 simply ring HKS in CA and they will fax them to you. Bruce Connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 11:58:56 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Warning lights >You wrote: > >>to go. All things were fixed and the engine was running >> >>smoothly, but the warning lights didn't go out! What the >> >>hell is going on??? do these need to be reset somehow? >> >>Does anyone know how?? Has this ever happened to >> >>anyone else?. >> > >You need a new alternator, it's dead. This happened to me about a year >ago >and I was just as confused. I'm not sure why 3 lights come on (two >bright, >one kinda dim) when you lose voltage, but that's what happens. It also > >happened to Chris B. > >I got a remanufactured alternator at the local store, and I had the choice > >of a $110 or $140 model. I figured there couln't be much diff so I got >the >$110 one. WRONG! With this one the lights would come back on at idle cuz > >it couln't hold voltage. I ended up replacing it (under warranty) with >the >$140 one and it's been perfect ever since. > >I suppose as an alternative you could replace the brushes in the unit, but > >I'm not familiar with that and I needed it fixed immediately. > I have a used one (Genuine Toyota reman, paid about $250 for it) from an '85 MR2 with 35k miles on it - replaced at 135k +/-, car parted ou at 170k +/-. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 N/A 169,000 miles - parts car '91 MR2 Turbo 78,000 miles - daily driver http://www.rust.net/~bagdon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 11:43:48 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Mark Hoverson Subject: Speedo also way off Hi all I've also replaced the gears and put a posi in my '81 Corolla and its been 10mph off for a few years. I guess I just got used to having the speedo reading a little off but if anyone knows where to get a speedo gear that would bring it back to a normal reading it would be appreciated. Mark Hoverson 81 Corolla SR5 2TG xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 11 Apr 96 12:50:23 Subject: Speedo talk I have replacedthe stock 3.9:1 rear end in my car with 4.7:1 gears. The original tire on the car were 185/70 series 14-inch. Now it has 195/50 15". The speedo is waaaaaay off. It shows 100 mph (160 km/h) when it should be 70 mph (112 km/h). How do I fix it without changing wheel size? Is there a speedo gear-set that I can use, or maybe an adaptor? If so, where can I get one? BTW, the transmission is a 5-speed W-50. Thanks! John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: Justin Simpson Cc: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: flywheel & turboed 2TG-EU Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 11:10:00 PDT Hi Justin! = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = From: Justin Simpson To: Raikkonen Timo Subject: RE: flywheel Date: 11. 04. 1996 10:05 Thanks Timo, that was encouraging. I don't think I can get the 18RG flywheel down to 5 kg but I'll go as light as I can. By the way what sort of turbo set up (carbi or injected) were you running and what sort of ignition system did you use. Cheers = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = I first thought about fitting a 18R-GE in my KE35 Corolla (illegal though in Finland...:), but then after few calculations I noticed that I can get much better weight ratio (read lighter:) with 2TG engine! 18RG transmission alone is so fu...ing heavy that my car would have been moustly front weighted and would have understeered surely! Anyway by machining the 2TG (newer blocks) cylinders 5.5mm bigger (90.5) and then using 3T crankshaft and forged pistons one can get 18RG capacity with faster responce and much lighter construction (in KE35 body 2 liter 2TG is illegal too - in Finland - but it looks like 1.6 liter so nopody knows... =) I used Garret TO3 turbo with intercooler and max 1.1 bar boost. I used stock (2T-GEU) fuel injection with extra fuellers and controller box to avoid lean moments during boost. I used stock ignition with BMW vacuum "box" attached to distriputor on the place of stock vacuum "box" to retard the ignition during boost (about 10-15 deg.). I don't own this KE-35 anymore but it's still alive and hungry for mph! And the "OWERBORED" 2TG-XXX block is still in one piece! :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. My KE-35 was a street brawler not a race machine! I Will but some pictures on my homepage about it... someday when I have time to make my homepage :) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:04:20 -0400 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tidbit of info I just wanted to pass along a little info I thought everyone would be interested in. I have just found out that you can now get some genuine Toyota parts packaged as aftermarket parts for much cheaper than dealership prices. Now that I have everyone's attention, let me give you some examples: 1) You can get Purolater air filters from Advance Auto that look identical to the genuine Toyota ones. 2) You can also get Purolater oil filters for the new trucks (can't remember the number, but I THINK it may be the 20001's). They also look identical to the ones you get from Toyota. They also have the Toyota part number stamped directly on the filter. 3) You can get EFI fuel filters from Autozone that have the Toyota name and part number stamped on them. (I'm not sure how many different models you can get these for yet, but Jeff picked up one this morning for a 90 Corolla. The dealer cost on this filter was $17.70(US). He paid $18.00. Just wanted to plant the seed for everyone to start looking for these in your area. Could be a significant savings for replacement of your preventative maintenance type parts. Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 13:22:05 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Mark Hoverson Subject: Speedo again After reading my post I thought it might have been handy to mention that I put 4.30 gears in my car. I'm glad my vacation starts tomorrow. ----------------------------------------------------------- Mark Hoverson Phone (505) 665-0386 Los Alamos National Lab Pager (V) 104-4184 (D) 104-4185 CIC-2 markh@lanl.gov ----------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 14:05:33 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: Warning lights I HAVE REPLACED BRUSHES ON MY 77 CELICA. IF YOU HAVE A LARGE SOLDERING IRON OR GUN, IT IS VERY EASY. I THINK I PAID $15 FOR THE BRUSHES. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Warning lights Author: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" at INTERNET-HUB Date: 4/11/96 10:06 AM You wrote: >to go. All things were fixed and the engine was running >smoothly, but the warning lights didn't go out! What the >hell is going on??? do these need to be reset somehow? >Does anyone know how?? Has this ever happened to >anyone else?. You need a new alternator, it's dead. This happened to me about a year ago and I was just as confused. I'm not sure why 3 lights come on (two bright, one kinda dim) when you lose voltage, but that's what happens. It also happened to Chris B. I got a remanufactured alternator at the local store, and I had the choice of a $110 or $140 model. I figured there couln't be much diff so I got the $110 one. WRONG! With this one the lights would come back on at idle cuz it couln't hold voltage. I ended up replacing it (under warranty) with the $140 one and it's been perfect ever since. I suppose as an alternative you could replace the brushes in the unit, but I'm not familiar with that and I needed it fixed immediately. .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:18:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Re: Warning lights To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" >You need a new alternator, it's dead. This happened to me about a year ago >and I was just as confused. I'm not sure why 3 lights come on (two bright, >one kinda dim) when you lose voltage, but that's what happens. Yes, it sounds like the alternator (happened to me also). The fact that more than one light comes on when the alternator dies is "by design." It is a by product of the "lamp test" that happens every time you turn the key to the ignition (drive) position, with the engine not running. All dash lights should come on allowing you to verify that the bulbs are OK. Exceptions include the high beam indicator and maybe the seat belt warning light, but these are less critical indicators. > I bought a brandy > spankin new DieHard battery and figured I'd be good > to go. All things were fixed and the engine was running > smoothly, but the warning lights didn't go out! What the > hell is going on??? do these need to be reset somehow? The lights will go out when the alternator is working correctly when the engine is running. With the dead alternator, your new battery will last maybe a few hours before it is completely discharged. It is possible that your old battery is still OK (can hold a charge). Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: Re: Filter Mod Update/Correction Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 15:22:00 PDT From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: Re: Filter Mod Update/Correction Date: 8. 04. 1996 23:02 Wouldn't shortning the rubber pipe actually decrease power. I heard that the longer the pipe the more speed can build up before it enters the engine. Ramzi 86 MR2 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Hi Ramzi! Don't really know how it actually works in real life and in this case, but... Basicly if u want torgue then long intake header is good and if u want high hp's with high rews then short and "large" intake is good. This is why there are variable intake headers in some engines to gain from both worlds... If u mount 100 meter intake pipe u don't get really high velocity rather high resistance for air flow! Even different rubbers and slik metal tubes has different flow resistances... Try it out - don't really think could gain any hp's unless totally changing intake filter and tubing etc. and still only few hp's... -TimoR- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. Take a look of those road cars that has trumpet/horn like intake tubes. Not very long becouse they run high revs all the time and need as much air as possible. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 08:43:14 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: Mark Hoverson Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Speedo also way off On Thu, 11 Apr 1996, Mark Hoverson wrote: > I've also replaced the gears and put a posi in my '81 Corolla and its been > 10mph off for a few years. I guess I just got used to having the speedo > reading a little off but if anyone knows where to get a speedo gear that > would bring it back to a normal reading it would be appreciated. If you will not be changing your diff ratio/wheel size agin you could always get an instrument maker to re-calibrate your speedo - not that expensive, especially if you pull the thing out yourself. Best thing to do is to pull the speedo unit out and then run over a known kilometre/mile and count the number of revolutions of the cable. Once the instrument maker has the info it is a fairly simple task to get it re-calibrated. Cheers, Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Carina back on the road! To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 02:52:02 +0300 (EET DST) ... with a vengeance ;) Hi everybody, I had lots of trouble with the installation, due to the very very tight space. Had to re-do the exhaust manifold adapter, and fight with the oil lines (ended up removing the offending motor mount and modifying it to give more room for the drain line. Hunting for 90 degree bends proved to be WAY difficult, then came the Easter holidays... I got the 90 deg rubber air hoses today and got the oil lines connected. The fuel tank had to be filled with 16 liters plus as it doesn't suck from lower than that. Battery is now in the trunk (right corner), and we removed one muffler (leaving one). Having turned the boost controller off, we went for a test ride around midnight (2 hours ago). 2nd gear, open throttle. Well? Well? Whooooooooooooooosh!!!!! Another try, slightly sooner because of lower revs. Looks like I got about 1 bar even when it spooled up, way up to redline (maybe beyond, my tach started AGAIN going berserk...). Whine is more noticable than with CT20. There still seems to be no low end torque (hopefully playing with the cams will help a lot), but when it spools up it rockets to 1 bar. With CT20 it came up much slower. It did feel pretty quick, maybe 230-235hp and some 350-370Nm. Fuel mixture seemed ok, didn't get too many chances to check but on the rich side and no sign of knocking (hell there should be none!!) We noticed some light smoke coming from the drivers side, thought it was some spilled oil or CRC. Continued, and after a few blocks while revving up to 7000rpm BANG! Klonk klonk klonk... Not a nice sound to hear at that point, but it was just the rear muffler which dropped to ground! As we pull over, I see lots more smoke coming from engine bay (it's dark, can't see too well) - quick turning off of the engine. Damn, we thought, must be the oil lines... After walking back the 1.5 km in -5C weather Tero remembers he left the Alfa's keys to his work overalls pocket... Luckily we got a ride back. So we ended up towing the Carina back to the garage (old industrial building in the Tampella factory area, rented by the university motoring club). Where the hell is the leak? First we couldn't find the source. Then it struck like a lightning from clear sky: The damned engine heater had dropped loose from the block! So it wasn't fresh oil but old coolant that got ALL drained on the road within some 50-100 meters. At least I'm no longer followed by large blue clouds... That's my situation, fresh from the newsdesk... Another try tomorrow with a freeze plug replacing the unused heater element. We'll use the other muffler in the back. It's not too loud with just one muffler, just different in sound (more mid-frequency noise, less low-frequency) If no other big problems arise, I can get it through the yearly vehicle on Monday. (I'm late with this for obvious reasons and it's under a driving ban...). We'll of course get some hard data about the performance ASAP with Revtest. Then it will be time to raise the boost, add the blow-off valve and try too keep up with the fuel demand (first try: raising pressure, this might actually be enough as it didn't lean out (not over 0.83 lambda it seems). xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 00:45:52 -0400 (EDT) To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celica GT-R Subject: me/mine/mods Name: Antonio Alvendia Location: San Jose, California Email: aponton@concentric.net Project: 1986 celica GT-R Engine: Rebuilt 2SE Performance Modifications: Gracer Airinx intake filter Sebring exhaust with 2 1/4" pipes Magnecor performance ignition cables NGK-R sparkplugs Tokico sport springs Tokico shocks (getting them in two weeks) Custom strut tower brace 16 inch rims (not chrome)with 215/40/R16 tires Suspension techniques sway bars (getting them with the shocks) Z-speed racing lugnuts Piaa 1000 white driving lights Saab side markers(heheheh) Momo "Champion" steering wheel Momo "Race Air" shift knob Razo aluminum pedals Stereo System Modifications: Alpine CDA-7939 Ai-net cd player 3342 Digital Sound processor/Equalizer Polk Audio 6.5 inch separates MB Quart 4 inch separates JL Audio 10W1 subwoofer Soundstream Reference 300 amp (2) Autotek 44 amps xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 07:54:02 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 272 Cams - no one? Hello again everyone! Judging by the overwhelming response to my HKS 272 4AGE question (not a single response!), I guess those cams aren't exactly popular. Any particular reason? It seems the group is polarized to the 264 and 288 grinds, but no 272. Is there something I should know about 272? Not cost effective for the power gained? Perhaps I'll end up being the guinea pig on this one. If I do, of course you'll get to read about it! Later! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 14:05:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Starlet: Plan On Sat, 6 Apr 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote: > > Why was I under the impression that the Starlet is a front-wheel drive car? > Was it FWD in later models? That's weird, huh? A RWD, subcompact hatchback. Are/were there any other cars, import or otherwise, with this layout? And yes, it was FWD in later models starting 198_. The newest generation Starlet was recently released in Japan, including a 4WD version and a 135hp Turbo ("Glanza"), but not together in the same package. =/ I think the Turbo is something like the 4E-FTE. > Maybe it's time for me to buy a Corolla GTS parts car! :) > Maybe it's time for me to buy a Corolla GTS! -Jayson xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:16:56 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Valve Shims.... Does anyone know of cheaper valve shims (discs?) than Toyota stock? I've got a 4AGE MK1 MR2. Toyota here wants $7.50 each for them. That's $120.00 just to do my valves!!! Are there any other companies that make shims cheaper??? Are VW/Audi shims the same size? Anyone? Tanx Until Next..........................................Robert '85 MR2 177K and going... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 16:51:47 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Collins To: Jayson Entao Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Starlet: Plan On Fri, 12 Apr 1996, Jayson Entao wrote: > On Sat, 6 Apr 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote: > > > > Why was I under the impression that the Starlet is a front-wheel drive car? > > Was it FWD in later models? > > That's weird, huh? A RWD, subcompact hatchback. Are/were there any > other cars, import or otherwise, with this layout? i'm kinda saying this as a joke put what about the ford pinto? i cna't remember if it is or not. > And yes, it was FWD in later models starting 198_. The newest > generation Starlet was recently released in Japan, including a 4WD > version and a 135hp Turbo ("Glanza"), but not together in the same > package. =/ I think the Turbo is something like the 4E-FTE. > > > Maybe it's time for me to buy a Corolla GTS parts car! :) > > > Maybe it's time for me to buy a Corolla GTS! > -Jayson > James Collins collinsj@bird.library.arizona.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 19:47:22 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: Jim Collins Cc: Jayson Entao , Subject: starlet plan From what I know of the early models, Pinto was a RWD. Ford had problems with fuel tank placement... ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu 80 Corolla SR-5 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 20:01:40 -0500 To: Jayson Entao , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Starlet: Plan >On Sat, 6 Apr 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote: >> >> Why was I under the impression that the Starlet is a front-wheel drive car? >> Was it FWD in later models? > > That's weird, huh? A RWD, subcompact hatchback. Are/were there any >other cars, import or otherwise, with this layout? Anyone have the model years for this car that was RWD? I am looking for a 'winter-car' for next year, and this would be a too-cool vehicle - I detest FWD in the snow, I don't care if it gives better traction, I like RWD! :) So there! :) > And yes, it was FWD in later models starting 198_. The newest >generation Starlet was recently released in Japan, including a 4WD >version and a 135hp Turbo ("Glanza"), but not together in the same >package. =/ I think the Turbo is something like the 4E-FTE. Sounds a little like the Renault R5 Turbo. Take a *really* small car, put in a *really* powerful turbo engine, and have fun. Can you imagine a 135hp 4-wheel drive 2200(?) lb car? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 http://www.rust.net/~bagdon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 19:41:16 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: starlet plan > >>From what I know of the early models, Pinto was a RWD. Ford had problems >with fuel tank placement... > >ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu >80 Corolla SR-5 > Heheh, I think we all know about that! Dave drees@ucsd.edu '81 Celica GT xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 21:35:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RWD Starlet (+4AG pricing) On Fri, 12 Apr 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote: > > Anyone have the model years for this car that was RWD? I am looking for a AFAIK, the RWD Starlet was imported to North America from 1981-1984 only, and the Starlet model originated around 1978...front kinda looked like a Corolla of the same vintage (round headlights)... I imagine the Starlet moved to FWD around the same time the Corolla GTS did...perhaps 1987? And while I'm here... Does anyone know offhand the price of a rebuilt/imported 4AG? With or without accessories? Also, what is the "best" year/version of the 4AG? (Yes, I'm still itching for an engine swap..=) -Jayson ps. Just got my own copy of Toyota Perf. Handbook....yay! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:24:36 -0700 From: Yoshi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: rebuilt/imported 4AG Subject: RWD Starlet (+4AG pricing) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 21:35:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Does anyone know offhand the price of a rebuilt/imported 4AG? With or without accessories? Also, what is the "best" year/version of the 4AG? (Yes, I'm still itching for an engine swap..=) -Jayson ps. Just got my own copy of Toyota Perf. Handbook....yay! To the above question, since you seems to be mailing from CA, have you contacted Toysport in Gardena, CA? While I was there, the salesperson was trying to sell me 4AG Rebuilt from Japan to me. The guy said it has better performance than the one here. Don't have their Tel no. off hand, but I remember it was on Rosecran off 110 fwy. Yoshi xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 10:30:17 -0500 To: Jayson Entao , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: RWD Starlet (+4AG pricing) >On Fri, 12 Apr 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote: >> >> Anyone have the model years for this car that was RWD? I am looking for a > > AFAIK, the RWD Starlet was imported to North America from >1981-1984 only, and the Starlet model originated around 1978...front >kinda looked like a Corolla of the same vintage (round headlights)... Better get my 'winter-car' now, before they are all junkers! :) > I imagine the Starlet moved to FWD around the same time the >Corolla GTS did...perhaps 1987? Thought the GTS was RWD to much later - they had the RWD GTS, but a FWD DX(?). >And while I'm here... > > Does anyone know offhand the price of a rebuilt/imported >4AG? With or without accessories? Also, what is the "best" year/version >of the 4AG? (Yes, I'm still itching for an engine swap..=) No, but if I get the 'winter-car', this sure would be a fun swap - let me know how it goes. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 http://www.rust.net/~bagdon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 19:00:23 +0200 From: Daniel Bucher To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Camry V6 1995 Mods.. Sorry folks, I am new on this list and since you seem to know your business very well, I would like to ask this: Is anybody here that can help me to upgrade my 1995 Camry V6 to some more horses? Daniel xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 15:29:54 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: pah112@psu.edu (Peter A Howard) Subject: 20R "Carb" Problem????? Hello, I have had fuel pouring out of the primary nozzle on my 79 Celica. Yesterday, I switched the carb with one from a 79 Cressida (I think). Anyway, this car had a 20R motor in it and the carb is identical to mine. I paid $15 at the junkyard for it. I installed it, but I am still having fuel pour out of the primary nozzle. What are the chances that both carbs are at fault?? What could be causing this problem? The engine will cut out because there is too much fuel for the motor to burn. HELP! I really need to figure this out. The 2000 rpm 1st gear starts are not doing my clutch any good. Peter Howard 87 Supra Turbo (100K) 79 Celica (201K) Visit My Supra At: http://www.supras.com/peterh/peterh.html xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 15:31:12 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: pah112@psu.edu (Peter A Howard) Subject: 20R Carb Problem - PLEASE EMAIL RESPONSES Hello, I forgot to mention in my first post to email comments to me directly at pah112@psu.edu Thanks again, Peter xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 15:17:08 -0700 To: Daniel Bucher From: David Subject: Re: Camry V6 1995 Mods.. Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Well, you can always do the simple mods like upgrading exhaust and the intake. Together, that should grab you another 10-30 horses... Dave At 07:00 PM 4/13/96 +0200, you wrote: >Sorry folks, I am new on this list and since you seem to know your >business very well, I would like to ask this: > >Is anybody here that can help me to upgrade my 1995 Camry V6 to some >more horses? > >Daniel > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 15:19:50 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: Stock Carb on 22R I've got the stock carb on a '81 22R motor. Does anyone know of any mods that can be done to the carb and intake to increase flow? (That are relatively inexpensive) Would it be benificial to polish them? If so, what would be the best way to accomplish that? Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 20:09:26 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Camry V6 1995 Mods.. Seems like a lot of work for a Camry - was that an auto or 5-speed? Steve B. >Well, you can always do the simple mods like upgrading exhaust and the >intake. Together, that should grab you another 10-30 horses... > >Dave > >At 07:00 PM 4/13/96 +0200, you wrote: >>Sorry folks, I am new on this list and since you seem to know your >>business very well, I would like to ask this: >> >>Is anybody here that can help me to upgrade my 1995 Camry V6 to some >>more horses? >> >>Daniel >> bagdon@rust.net Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 http://www.rust.net/~bagdon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 20:55:14 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: '77 Celica for Sale TMers, Would anyone be interested in a '77 Celica, Nevada car, supposedly in super shape, $700 firm? I noticed this while looking through the local Tradin' Times mag. If interested I could check it out for you, it's very near where I work here in Michigan. Dave A. 1986 MR2, Silver (in the garage, trans and steering out) 1986 MR2, Green (on the truck up from Florida now) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 20:56:10 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MKI Transmission Isolators Hi! I just pulled the transmission off my silver '86 and I realized why my car had some vibrations in the seat and pedals... all the trans mount isolators are torn! Since Toyota wants better than $50 each for these (three required) I was wondering if anyone out there has some lying around they want to get rid of! I realize this is a shot in the dark, but what the heck.... Dave A. 1986 MR2, Silver 1986 MR2, Green xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 19:34:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Wes Shew To: Toyota-Mods mailing list Cc: Wes Shew Hi, I'm a new subscriber to this list, is there a digest version of it? If so, what command do I use to get it. TIA Yours in motorsport, Wes Shew [macher :-) ] xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:36:07 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: Wes Shew Cc: Toyota-Mods mailing list , Subject: Re: your mail Welcome to the list! On Sun, 14 Apr 1996, Wes Shew wrote: > Hi, I'm a new subscriber to this list, is there a digest version of it? > If so, what command do I use to get it. TIA Tis on my todo list (and has been for a number of months :( Hopefully I will get time RSN to set this up - I know, I am beginning to sound like a broken record but just keep prodding me every now and again... Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 15:02:11 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: cam timing I am presently installing the cams in my turbo 18RG build up and would appreciate any suggestions on the timing set up I should use. The cams are stock (for the present) and not having set up cams in a turbo motor before I'm not sure of the advantages/disadvantages of using the stock settings or trying for 3-6 degrees of advance. Just a guess but duration looks around 260 degrees and lift about 9 mm. Anyone had any experience or got any suggestions. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 15 Apr 96 08:48:18 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol Cc: Gerald , Subject: Studdering problem. Today begins the new week , so it must be time for my car to have another problem! Here we go.....' (By the way, I can't tell all of you how much you've all helped me out over the past month. Better than any service maunal) I finally broke down and bought the HKS FCD on Saturday. I found a dealer in Hempstead, NY that had it in stock. Of course, what should have been one of the easiest things to install turned into something I'm not quite sure of. I hooked up the ground (to a brown wire) then the B+ (to a black wire yellow stripe) then put the other two breaking the boost sensor line (the blue wire yellow stripe) and mounted the unit to the computer with the double stick tape included in the package. All done, right? I took the car for a spin to set the TVVC, and wouldn't you know.... it worked great! I was jamming out about 15psi !! Then I took the car back to my house and began my other maintenance for the week, changing the hoses to the cool new blue silicone ones I just bought ($3 a friggin foot!). Pretty routine right?? NOPE! As soon as I finished, I went to the store, and as I'm driving there, I get on it and as soon as I hit about .5 bar, the car starts bucking, and studdering. What the hell !!!!!!! Even at idle, the car doesn't sit right. Once again, I implore all of you technical gurus to... HHHHHEEEEELLLLLPPPPPP!!!!!! Thanks again, -Larry S -91 MR2T with more problems than you can shake a stick at! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 11:20:42 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Re: Sarizer Steering Kit To: Tariq Altajir Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Tariq, The Sarizer Steering Kit is simply a nylon (VERY hard plastic) and aluminum ball and socket type of bushing that goes on the strut bar. For each strut bar, there are two bushings at the end not connected to the struts. They used to only replace one of those two bushings, but now they actually replace both. It was about US$96 for two full sets when I looked into them. These are basically a *lot* harder than your TRD bushings or even the typical polyurethane bushing. On Mon, 8 Apr 1996, Tariq Altajir wrote: > First, I've heard about a Sarizer Steering Kit, what is it? Is it a quick > Rack or does it change the geometry. > > Tariq Altajir e-mail taltaji@junix.ju.edu > Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: cam timing Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:21:40 -0400 From: Tom Julien >Many years ago (6 years?) I heard of a '72 Celica that had turboed 18-RG >engine. 1972? No biggie, but I thought that `73 was the first year for the Celica? Then again, maybe that was just the U.S. import. Chris? Koji? Wake up guys! (... and no Chris, you can't have my `74 if you answer this correctly ... ;-) >They tried differend kinds of grinds on cams, but decided to use stock cams >instead becouse didn't find any gain from using aftermarket/self grounded >cams >(car was street daily driven vehicle). I have no idea what timing they used, >but I >recall they retardet exhaust a bit and left intake as default. They tried >the different >setups on dyno - and I recall 285hp with stock cams at that time. Nice! >(inside/outside) and more fancy info of that "Blaster Celica". Check >http://www.cyberauto.com/toyota-mods/other_images.html I think Chris/ >Webmeister or "somebody" should resize these pictures to fit in screen :) Never got that request with the submission, but all ya need to do is ask. ;-) However, trying to please everyone with a multitude of operating systems, screen resolutions, and web browsers is always a challenge. I will shoot for the default size for the Netscape browser, unless there are any complaints. >About this Celica again... :) There should be a article somewhere that has >been traslated with my poor english from Finnish magazine... (at least I >send it to Chris:). The story gives u a hinch what has been done to that >fast "street" Celica. > >If u are interested ask Chris, he should know where it's available... I have >here >but... :) Chris, where is this puppy at? I'll be glad to put it on the TM site if anyone can round it up... /************************************************************* Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com Engineering Unix Support Tel: 407-826-7685 Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL Fax: 407-826-1881 *************************************************************/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: GODKNOWS@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 15:19:02 -0400 ok the car back to my house and began my other maintenance > for the week, changing the hoses to the cool new blue silicone ones I > just bought ($3 a friggin foot!). Pretty routine right?? NOPE! As > soon as I finished, I went to the store, and as I'm driving there, I > get on it and as soon as I hit about .5 bar, the car starts bucking, > and studdering. What the hell !!!!!!! Even at idle, the car doesn't > sit right. Once again, I implore all of you technical gurus to... > HHHHHEEEEELLLLLPPPPPP!!!!!! Thanks again, -Larry S -91 MR2T with more > problems than you can shake a stick at! > > My friend, you've got a nice vacuum leak. I've had one or two on 94TT Supra and they each behaved just like that. The worse the leak the great the lack of driveability. And it always comes up after you've been playing with the hoses! You've got something not connected properly. I doubt very much that the FCD has anything to do with it. John Page xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 15:31:33 -0400 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: cam timing >1972? No biggie, but I thought that `73 was the first year for >the Celica? Then again, maybe that was just the U.S. import. >Chris? Koji? Wake up guys! The earliest Celica that I know of in the US is '71. We are in the process of fixing our '71 for racing in the "mini-stock" class at our local track. Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: me/mine/mods Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 14:28:00 PDT Name : Glenn Dysart Location : Annandale, Virginia Model : 1993 MR2 turbo Engine : 3S-GTE Mods : Trust Exhaust System, HKS Powerflow Air Filter email : dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 11:34:30 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: edc.our@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: cam timing From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Mon Apr 15 11:29:34 1996 Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 15:31:33 -0400 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" > Subject: Re: cam timing >>1972? No biggie, but I thought that `73 was the first year for >>the Celica? Then again, maybe that was just the U.S. import. >>Chris? Koji? Wake up guys! >The earliest Celica that I know of in the US is '71. We are in the >process of fixing our '71 for racing in the "mini-stock" class at our >local track. Correct, I belive the Celica was modeled after the Ford Mustang 3/4 scale Came out with the 18-RC motor. >Beth C. Williams >Automated Degree Audit Specialist >Office of the University Registrar >stdinUniversity of North Carolina-Chapel Hill >105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 >Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 >Phone: (919) 962-0495 >e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu Sorry for my absence, i have over 683 unanswered email since one month ago -sigh- Switching jobs and all >=) -Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:56:15 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Celica Babble From tomj@escmail.orl.mmc.com Mon Apr 15 13:45:33 1996 Subject: Re: cam timing Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 19:15:26 -0400 From: Tom Julien > >Allen T Koji Kam > writes: >>>>From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" >>> >> >>>>The earliest Celica that I know of in the US is '71. We are in the >>>>process of fixing our '71 for racing in the "mini-stock" class at our >>>>local track. >Oh, that's right... had the wrong _odd_ year. ;-) >Thanks Beth. >>Correct, I belive the Celica was modeled after the Ford Mustang 3/4 scale >The coupe was even modeled after the Mustang? The liftback >of several years later is surely a dead give away... >>Came out with the 18-RC motor. >Didn't it first come out with the 8R Koj? or was that just >the HiLux that switched from the 8 to 18 before going to >the 20? Looks like I need to blow the dust off of that ole >TP Handbook, and put some of that great info on the web, so I >can refresh my memory periodically! ;-) You know, I was going to post that it came out with the 8RC motor, however I'm not sure, mainly because in Hawaii, we only got the 18RC models in all our early year celica's. Got the 8RC in the HiLux trucks only in Hawaii. Ill quote from the TRD Book. The first Celica notchback coupe imported to the US (RA20) recalled the long nose and closecoupled greenhouse of the original Ford Mustang (and countless classic European couples like the 250GT PiniFarina Ferrari.) Its fastback stablemate (RA29) was a virtual 3/4 cope of the fastback Mustang, which was a contemporary cult car in Japan. (RA29 is the liftback 76-77 correct) Hope that muddled up the waters a bit. >/************************************************************* >Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com >Engineering Unix Support Tel: 407-826-7685 >Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL Fax: 407-826-1881 >*************************************************************/ Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 10:20:36 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: Raikkonen Timo Cc: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" , Subject: Re: FW: cam timing Thanks Timo, this info gives me somewhere to start at least. I am sure this won't be the last question i will have for you or the group on the topic of ignitions. Cheers ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: Justin Simpson Cc: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: flywheel & turboed 2TG-EU & distributor... Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 17:43:00 PDT From: Justin Simpson To: Raikkonen Timo Subject: RE: flywheel & turboed 2TG-EU Date: 12. 04. 1996 10:18 Hi Timo me again, just wondered what BMW the vacuum box came off and was it easy to fit. I assume this provides vacuum advance off boost and positive pressure retard when on boost. Thanks again. Cheers = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Hi Justin! This is what I recall... I think the vacuum box was from BMW 316-320 engine. Installation was easy, but required some machining and grinding. There is also a bin to be removed from the distributor to ensure retard movements inside distributor during boost! U could also change the springs inside the distributor to get desired advance/timing gurves for turbo engine. I changed those springs, but I had dynoed data for good 2TG distributor gurves so I had some specs available (didn't have to shoot point planks)! :) Yes this system retards the spark during boost and only as much u "dial" it to retard (depends how u build it)! I think I had max advance 28 degree and retard during full boost something like -15. So it was 30-15=15 degree advance when full boost and lots of rpm's. The stock figures without mods and stock distributor are like 45 degree max advance... -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 20:01:15 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: Allen T Koji Kam Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Celica Babble Could have sworn that I read somewhere that there were 8R-C's in the first ones. ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu 80 Corolla SR-5 >Snippets...> > >>Came out with the 18-RC motor. > > >Didn't it first come out with the 8R Koj? or was that just > >the HiLux that switched from the 8 to 18 before going to > >the 20? Looks like I need to blow the dust off of that ole > >TP Handbook, and put some of that great info on the web, so I > >can refresh my memory periodically! ;-) > > You know, I was going to post that it came out with the 8RC motor, however > I'm not sure, mainly because in Hawaii, we only got the 18RC models > in all our early year celica's. Got the 8RC in the HiLux trucks only > in Hawaii. > > Ill quote from the TRD Book. > > The first Celica notchback coupe imported to the US (RA20) recalled the long > nose and closecoupled greenhouse of the original Ford Mustang (and countless > classic European couples like the 250GT PiniFarina Ferrari.) Its fastback > stablemate (RA29) was a virtual 3/4 cope of the fastback Mustang, which > was a contemporary cult car in Japan. (RA29 is the liftback 76-77 correct) > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: cam timing Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 18:07:00 PDT Hi Justin! Many years ago (6 years?) I heard of a '72 Celica that had turboed 18-RG engine. They tried differend kinds of grinds on cams, but decided to use stock cams instead becouse didn't find any gain from using aftermarket/self grounded cams (car was street daily driven vehicle). I have no idea what timing they used, but I recall they retardet exhaust a bit and left intake as default. They tried the different setups on dyno - and I recall 285hp with stock cams at that time. -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. Here is another fast(er) '80's Celica with 18-RGE turbo that ran 9,97sek. 1/4 mile, but don't know the cam timing - no stock cams though! Check it from http://www.sci.fi/~hestec/mika_e.htm (only two pictures no other info). I have earlier sent to Chris a Celica.zip package that included more detailed pictures (inside/outside) and more fancy info of that "Blaster Celica". Check http://www.cyberauto.com/toyota-mods/other_images.html I think Chris/ Webmeister or "somebody" should resize these pictures to fit in screen :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: cam timing Date: 15. 04. 1996 15:02 I am presently installing the cams in my turbo 18RG build up and would appreciate any suggestions on the timing set up I should use. The cams are stock (for the present) and not having set up cams in a turbo motor before I'm not sure of the advantages/disadvantages of using the stock settings or trying for 3-6 degrees of advance. Just a guess but duration looks around 260 degrees and lift about 9 mm. Anyone had any experience or got any suggestions. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: "'cmyer'" Subject: FW: cam timing Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 18:18:00 PDT About this Celica again... :) There should be a article somewhere that has been traslated with my poor english from Finnish magazine... (at least I send it to Chris:). The story gives u a hinch what has been done to that fast "street" Celica. If u are interested ask Chris, he should know where it's available... I have here but... :) -Timo- ---------- From: R{ikk|nen Timo To: Toyota-Mods-mailin'list Subject: RE: cam timing Date: 15. 04. 1996 18:07 Hi Justin! Many years ago (6 years?) I heard of a '72 Celica that had turboed 18-RG engine. They tried differend kinds of grinds on cams, but decided to use stock cams instead becouse didn't find any gain from using aftermarket/self grounded cams (car was street daily driven vehicle). I have no idea what timing they used, but I recall they retardet exhaust a bit and left intake as default. They tried the different setups on dyno - and I recall 285hp with stock cams at that time. -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. Here is another fast(er) '80's Celica with 18-RGE turbo that ran 9,97sek. 1/4 mile, but don't know the cam timing - no stock cams though! Check it from http://www.sci.fi/~hestec/mika_e.htm (only two pictures no other info). I have earlier sent to Chris a Celica.zip package that included more detailed pictures (inside/outside) and more fancy info of that "Blaster Celica". Check http://www.cyberauto.com/toyota-mods/other_images.html I think Chris/ Webmeister or "somebody" should resize these pictures to fit in screen :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: cam timing Date: 15. 04. 1996 15:02 I am presently installing the cams in my turbo 18RG build up and would appreciate any suggestions on the timing set up I should use. The cams are stock (for the present) and not having set up cams in a turbo motor before I'm not sure of the advantages/disadvantages of using the stock settings or trying for 3-6 degrees of advance. Just a guess but duration looks around 260 degrees and lift about 9 mm. Anyone had any experience or got any suggestions. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 09:25:18 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque > > B Man said that "...it would SEEM that the dyno is quite accurate...". Well > I > have understand that the dyno shows after the dyno run that how much > the "drive train" or what ever "loses/eats" horsepower. After hard dyno > just lift the throttle and press the clutch and let the dyno slow down the > speed. This way the dyno tells how much power is required to spin > transmission, rear end, gears etc. > > Corect me if I'm wrong... :) > > -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) > Wouldn't you still need to know the rotational inertia of the system to get anywhere. I mean, asuume I have the mother of all flywheels, it would take way longer for the wheels to slow down than if I had, say, no flywheel at all, even if everything else is the same? Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 22:27:59 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: polishing intake I was looking down my intake manifold ('81 22R) the other day and it is ugly! Not even close to being smooth. Do you guys think that polishing that sucker up (after removing it of course) will provide a noticeable difference in power? Or is it bumpy for a reason? If it is a good idea to polish, what's the best way? Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 11:07:42 +0500 To: dabitol@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, 103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Studdering problem. Cc: geraldsa@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, LMDA1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Larry S wrote: > Pretty routine right?? NOPE! As soon as I finished, I went to > the store, and as I'm driving there, I get on it and as soon as > I hit about .5 bar, the car starts bucking, and studdering. > What the hell !!!!!!! Even at idle, the car doesn't sit right. > Once again, I implore all of you technical gurus to... > HHHHHEEEEELLLLLPPPPPP!!!!!! Can you rev the engine without it studdering??? If can't, sorry to tell you that your turbo maybe gone. If can then check your TVVC setting. Do you have a turbo timer or cooler??? If not, get one cause it expands the life of your turbo cause as you should know that your turbo need to be cooled after a hard run before turning off. Lata, BARAM MADDA DAN EVA... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 11:18:27 +0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, pah112@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R "Carb" Problem????? > From: pah112@psu.edu (Peter A Howard) > Hello, > > I have had fuel pouring out of the primary nozzle on my 79 Celica. > Yesterday, I switched the carb with one from a 79 Cressida (I think). > Anyway, this car had a 20R motor in it and the carb is identical to mine. > I paid $15 at the junkyard for it. > > I installed it, but I am still having fuel pour out of the primary nozzle. > What are the chances that both carbs are at fault?? What could be causing > this problem? The engine will cut out because there is too much fuel for > the motor to burn. > > HELP! I really need to figure this out. The 2000 rpm 1st gear starts are > not doing my clutch any good. > > Peter Howard 87 Supra Turbo (100K) 79 Celica (201K) > > Visit My Supra At: http://www.supras.com/peterh/peterh.html > Check the float in each carb to see if they are stuck. Cause, this problem is caused by the float being stucked. Lata, BARAM AFFI GO BOUT I AN I BISNESS... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 11:23:25 +0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, danbu@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Camry V6 1995 Mods.. > From: Daniel Bucher > > Sorry folks, I am new on this list and since you seem to know your > business very well, I would like to ask this: > > Is anybody here that can help me to upgrade my 1995 Camry V6 to some > more horses? > > Daniel I just recently install a HKS intake and Borla cat back exhaust on one of these with automatic. The difference is about 15-20 HP. However, this give a mellow sound while driving which I mean a bit load external but inside a tollerable level. If need to know more about the setup of this Camry, drop me an e-mail. Lata, BARAM MI DE WAY BEHIND MI NORM OF E-MAIL... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 16:34:46 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Hp & Torque Hiya all, (back from holidays now :( ) I got this email and I had a chance to think about it - >B Man, > > This is not theory.. this is FACT. Dyno's do not measure horsepower, they >CALCULATE it, although there are some I think that actually measure it. If you >look at a graph of power output from a dyno, the HP curve will be calculated with >the SAME formula you call theory. So don't look to these graphs to disprove any >formula's as they will be using them themselves. > Yep, I have to agree with that. The reason why I (used) to call the HP vs Torque a theory is that with modern science the way that it is, a lot of the 'laws' we were taught in school are in fact just theories that are gradually being refined. (or scrapped!) It does make me wonder though, why we talk horsepower instead of torque? If horsepower is basically a synthetic figure derived from torque & revs, then how much of an indication is it of the (apparent) 'power' of the engine? It still does _feel_ odd to me though how two engines, one with a long stroke, the other a short stroke, could make the same HP with the same torque at the same RPM. Oh well, physics is physics ...... The B Man. P.S. Had the chance to put the AE-86 on a chassis dyno. I reckon the engine has about 160 odd hp, so it should have about 120 at the wheels - the dyno showed 118 @ 7000 rpm, so it would seem that the dyno (in this case) is fairly close to being accurate. (It also showed that I was dumping in far too much fuel in the mid-range, so I backed it off, with the help of an oxygen sensor. Works well, now! At the TLGP - Traffic Light Grand Prix - I knocked off a 5-litre V-8 in 1st, but when I hit 2nd gear I nearly spun the car around from wheelspin. So much for the LSD rear end!) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 11:35:13 +0500 To: ez020913@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: RWD Starlet (+4AG pricing) > From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) > >On Fri, 12 Apr 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote: > >> > >> Anyone have the model years for this car that was RWD? I am looking for a > > > > AFAIK, the RWD Starlet was imported to North America from > >1981-1984 only, and the Starlet model originated around 1978...front > >kinda looked like a Corolla of the same vintage (round headlights)... > > Better get my 'winter-car' now, before they are all junkers! :) > > > I imagine the Starlet moved to FWD around the same time the > >Corolla GTS did...perhaps 1987? > > Thought the GTS was RWD to much later - they had the RWD GTS, but a FWD DX(?). > > >And while I'm here... > > > > Does anyone know offhand the price of a rebuilt/imported > >4AG? With or without accessories? Also, what is the "best" year/version > >of the 4AG? (Yes, I'm still itching for an engine swap..=) > > No, but if I get the 'winter-car', this sure would be a fun swap - let me > know how it goes. > No, I do not know the price but the better 4AGs are in the MR2s. The MR2s have a stonger block especially the 4AGZ with 20 Values. However, I have one of these MR2 engines (4AGE) sitting in pieces cause I was planning to blue print and matched port for my GTS but I decided not to cause I purchased my Supra Turbo with all the HKS trimimgs. So, I got the block 20 tou oversize, acid bath and poliched. The crank was regrined to about the same 20 tou. I just need to plasti-gauge it again to tell the size. So, if anyone interested in these parts, drop me an e-mail. I got all the parts of the engine. However, I did not work on the head as yet. Maybe I might matched port it with new values and seals if someone is interested in it. Lata, BARAM MADDES PAN DE PLANET... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 18:23:47 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: polishing intake >I was looking down my intake manifold ('81 22R) the other day and it is >ugly! Not even close to being smooth. Do you guys think that polishing >that sucker up (after removing it of course) will provide a noticeable >difference in power? Or is it bumpy for a reason? If it is a good idea to >polish, what's the best way? > Uh, yes & no. Yes - get rid of the lumps & bumps so that the general trend of the port is smooth, but - No - the surface of the port must be slightly rough for better aerodynamics to give better airflow. I believe that a suface that is like a 'sandcast' surface is the best. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 08:49:41 +0000 Subject: Spring-loaded wind deflectors on T-Tops Michael- Sorry, no sunroof on my MK II MR2, but am I glad you mentioned deflectors and reminded me to ask this question!! When my T-Tops are out I have been able to find NO BENEFIT from the dual wind deflectors at speeds up to about 70mph. In fact, when I've held either one of them down while driving, I've found that wind noise drops dramatically!! When deflectors= up, they seem to greatly INCREASE wind NOISE-- especially at normal (aka legal, non-Montana) speeds. This occurs with the windows up, down, or whatever. Do the wind deflectors serve any useful purpose as far as cushioning shocks, or as a part of the seal, when the T-tops are in? I can't find a functional purpose for them when the Ts are out unless I am missing something here. Has anyone removed them for noise reasons with no ill effects?? Is it time to get out the duct tape?? Gary Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!! MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway Because, Like in Montana, You Can Go as Fast as You Want in CyberSpace xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 10:39:43 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: TVIS, 4AGE Hello everyone! I have a question about the TVIS on the 1985-1989 4AGE engines. I have disconnected mine to see what it performed like, and I found that it was better (using a TRD header, Monza pipe, K&N intake) when it was connected - much more low end. However, I'll be moving to more aggressive cams - HKS 272's. Does anyone out there have info on what works best, TIVS or no TVIS, with the various cam grinds? Thanks! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2, in need of a license plate! Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 08:04:42 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: horsepower / torque >It does make me wonder though, why we talk horsepower instead of torque? If >horsepower is basically a synthetic figure derived from torque & revs, then >how much of an indication is it of the (apparent) 'power' of the engine? >It still does _feel_ odd to me though how two engines, one with a long >stroke, the other a short stroke, could make the same HP with the same >torque at the same RPM. Oh well, physics is physics ...... don't volumetric efficiency. One motor may be running at 85% VE and the other with a highly tuned intake and exhaust (scavenging affect) might be at or higher than 100%. That's why we see these Acura VTECs making 170 Bhp at 7200 rpm and with a 1.8 liter. Calculate this and you'll see they're running a little over 110%. BTW, as soon as a turbo is put in the equation, all this scavenging affect is out the door (ie there is none). Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 11:57:06 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Re: RWD Starlet (+4AG pricing) > > > I imagine the Starlet moved to FWD around the same time the > >Corolla GTS did...perhaps 1987? > > Thought the GTS was RWD to much later - they had the RWD GTS, but a FWD DX(?). > 1987 was the last year for the rear drive GTS and SR5. The "regular" corollas of that era were FWD, I believe. In 88 the GTS got the new (and last?) body style, FWD, and softer bushings. I'm glad I've got one of the last good ones :). I don't know anything about the Starlets, though. -Mike Leary 87 Corolla GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Can't Find person who wanted this ! Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 10:55:19 PDT Most of you have probably seen this already, for those I appologise. Somebody a while ago asked me to Email them this info but I am not sure who it was. I hope they are still on the list else they will never get it. To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: FEB '96 Fast Car Mag. Part 1 of 3 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 96 08:38:36 PST As promised this is the article from the February '96 Fast Car magazine about ignition amps, etc. It comes in 3 parts. Fast Car 'February 1996' WE HAVE IGNITION! We Treat A Corolla GTi To A Complete Ignition Upgrade - And There's Not A Chip In Sight. Andrew Noakes Explains. Talk about ignition system tuning and everybody thinks you mean chips. Or (if they're into older, chipless vehicles) a re-curved dizzy. But there are other ways to improve ignition systems, without spending huge amounts of money or spending three years doing a degree in electronics. Successful ignition is a combination of two things. First, a spark with enough power to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinders. Second, correct timing so that the spark arrives at the plug at just the right moment. Currently, most ignition tuning - like that the re-curved distributor or re-mapped management - alters the timing of the spark. In road cars, the spark will always occur just before top dead centre (TDC) as the piston is rising on the compression stroke. Leaving the spark until the engine is close to TDC is often the safe option. It'll mean losing a bit of power, but poor fuel and irregular maintenance are going to cause less of a problem. Using better (i.e. higher octane ) fuel, we can 'advance' the spark and get more power. Advancing the spark means timing it to occur earlier in the cycle, giving the fuel enough time to start burning. As it burns, the pressure on the piston increases, and if timing is right this will occur just as the piston reaches TDC and we'll get the maximum amount of power. But these methods of ignition tuning alter just the timing of the spark. While the timing is critical to the way the engine performs, we can also make a difference by improving the quality of the spark itself. Boosting the power of the spark turns out to be fairly easy, and the benefits extend further than just the handful of bhp you're likely to get. You could also get better throttle response, better driveability and better starting. To find out just what kind of difference we could make with some relatively cheap ignition upgrades, we selected a car that's got a lot going for it in standard form, but tends to be a bit pricey to tune - Toyota's Corolla GTi 16V, which has basically the same 1587cc twin-cam motor as the old-shape MR2. This example belongs to Raymond Goh, and is thoroughly standard and in exceptional condition. The extensive testing work, plus fitting and removing the kit that we tried, was entrusted to the workshop and rolling road dyno at Autosprint, Birmingham, England. BRIGHTER SPARKS The main part of our test was to check out part of Crane Cams' range of ignition components. First was the PS91 high-power ignition coil. This is a so-called 'E-core' design, meaning that the core of coil has the shape of a letter E. Most recent cars have coils like this - they're the small box-like coils which have tended to replace the old style can-like systems. The E-core coil has a 'closed magnetic path' which means that less of the magnetic force is lost, and that means more energy can be stored in the coil and delivered to the plug. Also from Crane Cams was their HI2000 ignition amplifier, which boosts the energy at the plug still further, and can produce a longer spark which gives an even better chance of burning all the available fuel. As the final test, we tried bigger plug gaps, working on the assumption that if the system now had more power it would be able to spark over a wide gap. On top of all that, we also tested the effect of Splitfire spark plugs on the standard car, and as part of the 'final' uprated ignition system. It's interesting that the total cost for the lot is about the same as you'd pay for a chip change. Does it make the same kind of difference ? Part 2: TEST 1. STANDARD IGNITION SYSTEM & PLUGS. In completely standard form, the Toyota recorded 104bhp at the wheels on the rolling road at Autosprint. That's pretty good, indicating an output at the flywheel a few notches up on the claimed 112bhp. Even in standard form, though, the 16-valve motor showed it's preference for high revs, with a big step in the power curve around 4500rpm. Looking at the standard ignition system we've got a modern high-energy coil, low-loss HT leads and high quality Nippondenso platinum-tipped plugs - probably one of the best 'conventional' plugs around. TEST 2. CRANE PS91 COIL & STANDARD PLUGS. Crane's PS91 coil is claimed to deliver up to 70% more energy to the plugs than standard-spec coils. There's probably less of an advantage over the Toyota's modern high energy electronic ignition, but even so we still recorded 1-2bhp more from 5000rpm upwards. At higher revs the standard coil is more likely to run out of puff because it has less time to charge up, so it's at the top end of the rev-range that the PS91 shows its advantage on the rollers. On the road the greater spark energy should also help to ignite the weaker less well-mixed air/fuel mixtures found during part-throttle operation, making the car more driveable. We couldn't tell from this car, but on later vehicles equipped with exhaust re-circulation (EGR) to reduce emissions, the fatter spark should improve driveability. And the same applies to the cars running hot cams and suffering from poor idle and low-load performance. TEST 3. CRANE PS91 COIL, HI2000 AMP & STANDARD PLUGS. Adding the HI2000 amplifier gave us about 2bhp more all the way through the rev range. That's not bad going when you remember that we haven't changed the ignition timing at all. And yet its yet more impressive when you realise that these test ended up being performed in less favourable weather conditions, and might be a bit pessimistic. Although we couldn't measure torque figures, 2bhp at low revs will probably be worth 5lbft or so. That's well worth having, particularly on an engine which only gives of its best at high revs in standard form. Wiring is simple - PS91 coil is practically a direct replacement item, and HI2000 is easy to plumb in. Part 3: TEST 4. PS91, HI2000 AND 42THOU PLUG GAPS. This is where we took a leap in the dark. Assuming that the crane coil and ignition amp were producing extra engine power by delivering more energy to the spark, we tried widening the plug gaps from the standard 32thou (0.8mm) to 42thou (1.05mm). A bigger gap means bigger spark, but requires more energy for the current to jump the gap. We reckon that the higher power ignition system should be able to handle a bigger gap reliably. And it did, sort of. Widening the gaps by 10thou (0.25mm) gave us another 2-3bhp at the top end, though we also lost 1bhp or so up to 4500rpm. More developement time would give us the chance to play with the plug gaps in more detail. That might mean we could find a setting where we could get most or all of the top end power with little or no loss at the bottom. TEST 5. SPLITFIRE PLUGS. Splitfire plugs are unique in having a V-shaped earth electrode, which is supposed to give the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder more chance to get at the flame kernel produced by the spark. That's said to improve combustion and have a positive effect on power, economy and emissions. The downside is that the plugs themselves are very expensive compared to more conventional designs, costing around 27 pounds for a set of four. They do appear to be well-made, though, which goes some way towards justifying their high price. But we knew that their very individual design would have to go some to find an advantage over the high-quality standard plugs. With the standard ignition system, we couldn't detect much of a power difference between splitfires and the standard Nippondenso plugs. If anything the splitfires actually lose a little. With the Crane coil and ignition amp fitted, and the standard gaps still in use, again the Nippondenso plugs had a slight edge. But when we opened out the plug gaps to 42thou (1.05mm) the Splitfires gave us up to 1bhp more at the bottom end (up to 4000rpm), and then dropped behind again at high revs. Raymond, the owner of the car, also checked out the difference between the two sets of plugs on the road. The Splitfires certainly seemed more driveable at 'normal' engine speeds, even if they didn't give an increase in peak power. Couple all this with the fact that we have seen Splitfires give more power on some cars, and the situation just becomes even more confusing. Just remember, if you fit a set, that while a bit more mid-range punch is no bad thing, it's not at all the same as extra peak power. CONCLUSIONS. If you're going to be pedantic about it, our Crane ignition uprate netted us 3-4bhp. But bending the spark plugs about costs nothing and isn't really very difficult. If you assume that the Crane-boosted ignition is allowing us to run bigger gaps, then you can conclude that we've gained 6bhp or more at the wheels. If the standard car was producing the claimed 112bhp, then our car is now up to 119bhp or so. When you consider the costs involved - 77pounds for the PS91 coil, and 140pounds for the HI2000 amp - that's pretty cheap horsepower. Boosting the ignition system in this way also increases potential for the future. For example, because the greater ignition energy should help the engine burn off iffy mixtures at part throttle, the negative effects of a performance cam are lessened. And all those other ignition tuning strategies we talked about earlier - like chips - are still available if we want them. Sounds like a great way to get your engine tuning off the launch pad ... CONTACTS: Autosprint - 0121 236 5133 (England) Crane Cams - 01938 556614 (England) Splitfire - 01562 822699 (England) Tony York Radstone Technology Plc Water Lane Towcester Northants England NN12 6JN Tel: 01327 359444 Ext:2389 Fax: 01327 358113 Email: york@radstone.co.uk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 13:42:36 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Celica Babble To the list, For what its worth guys the XA-2X Celica's first came out in 1970 as the TA22 with the 2T, 2T-C and 2T-B (twin carbs models), they made it to Australia in 1971 with the 2T and some very small numbers with the 2T-G (the twin cam) in 1973. The car became the TA-23 with a longer nose, I think thats the US car but you got the 18-R then to become the 18-RC, I dont think the shape ever came with the 8R. I think it was 1977 when the 'Mustang' look came out with 18R in both US and OZ but the 18RG was not found in this (very heavy) shape. There are several changes to the basic XA-20 internals including two different fuel tank placements, bonnets guards and diff housings. The GT models had an LSD option, disk rear better seats and dash and bonnet fins. Bruce Connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 15:03:25 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tires and Wheels Hi all... this may have been covered before, but I have a question about the 205/55R14 tires. What is the optimum rim width for this tire? Stock rims are 5.5 inches, and this is perhaps the minimum for this tire. I have a 0.25 inch offset right now, so I could easily get my rim width to 6 inches, and maybe even 6.5 inches by only changing the inner half of my 3 piece wheels. I really don't want to change both halves ($$$$$). Alternatively, how successful would running the 205's on the 5.5 inch rims be? Would the sidewalls be at too much of an angle to be effective? I'm thinking BFG R1s or YOKO A032s. Any help is appreciated. .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2, Silver 1986 MR2, Green xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: Re: Hp & Torque Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 13:59:00 PDT Hi there! = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = The B Man wrote: P.S. Had the chance to put the AE-86 on a chassis dyno. I reckon the engine has about 160 odd hp, so it should have about 120 at the wheels - the dyno showed 118 @ 7000 rpm, so it would seem that the dyno (in this case) is fairly close to being accurate. (It also showed that I was dumping in far = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = B Man said that "...it would SEEM that the dyno is quite accurate...". Well I have understand that the dyno shows after the dyno run that how much the "drive train" or what ever "loses/eats" horsepower. After hard dyno just lift the throttle and press the clutch and let the dyno slow down the speed. This way the dyno tells how much power is required to spin transmission, rear end, gears etc. Corect me if I'm wrong... :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 23:50:38 +0100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: christof@server.net4you.co.at (Chris Orasch) Subject: Repair Manuals for 91MR2 Hi, Does someone out there have a set of repair manuals for the NA 91MR2 (with 3S-GE engine) for sale? - Or could tell me where I can get them? Thanks ---Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 23:50:42 +0100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: christof@server.net4you.co.at (Chris Orasch) Subject: Trouble Codes 91MR2 Hi, Could someone please EMail me a list of all 'trouble codes' for the NA 91MR2 (3S-GE engine) Thanks in advance! ---Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 16:00:48 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: polishing intake Well, after reading all the messages on polishing intake, I'm still unsure on what exactly to do. There's been conflicting answers. Some (most) people say that it is beneficial to have the intake bumpy, just port the intake, others say to polish it up a little, and another says to go ahead and buy a polishing kit from summit and expect a 3-5% increase. I guess the best way would be to go out and buy a used intake and polish that one and see if I get better results or not, what do you guys think? Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 10:11:05 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: David Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: polishing intake The head and inlet manifold for my turbo 18RG recently recieved a street/race port and polish and manifold match and the end result looks great. The exhaust side of the head is seriously polished (like you can just about see yourself in it). The inlet side of things was cleaned up and recieved a much milder polish, the finished looks like freshly sandblasted alloy. Obviously you want the least resistance to flow possible through your induction and exhaust systems, hence the highly polished exhaust side. The induction side is a bit of a compromise though because as well as good flow characteristics you need to maintain a certain level of turbulence in the flow to help keep the fuel atomised. So it would appear to me that where your injectors come into the system will determine how you polish your intake manifold eg on a direct port injection system you could probably highly polish your inlet manifold to improve flow as the air dosen't have to carry the fuel very far, therefore there is little chance of fuel condensing on the manifold walls. With a carburetted engine however, the air generally carries the fuel a greater distance so a higher degree of turbulence in the intake charge is required to maintain fuel atomization. There are going to be exceptions to this for specific engines (isn't there always) and i'm sure the actual physics is far more complicated but this general theory works well and is good enough for those of us not chasing 0.1 of a second gains. Cheers ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, David wrote: > Well, after reading all the messages on polishing intake, I'm still unsure > on what exactly to do. There's been conflicting answers. Some (most) > people say that it is beneficial to have the intake bumpy, just port the > intake, others say to polish it up a little, and another says to go ahead > and buy a polishing kit from summit and expect a 3-5% increase. I guess the > best way would be to go out and buy a used intake and polish that one and > see if I get better results or not, what do you guys think? > > Dave > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: geraldsa@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: horsepower / torque Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 18:48:30 PDT >>It does make me wonder though, why we talk horsepower instead of torque? If >>horsepower is basically a synthetic figure derived from torque & revs, then >>how much of an indication is it of the (apparent) 'power' of the engine? >>It still does _feel_ odd to me though how two engines, one with a long >>stroke, the other a short stroke, could make the same HP with the same >>torque at the same RPM. Oh well, physics is physics ...... > >don't volumetric efficiency. One motor may be running at 85% VE and the other with a highly tuned intake and >exhaust (scavenging affect) might be at or higher than 100%. That's why we see these Acura VTECs making 170 >Bhp at 7200 rpm and with a 1.8 liter. Calculate this and you'll see they're running a little over 110%. > >BTW, as soon as a turbo is put in the equation, all this scavenging affect is out the door (ie there is none). > >Gerald San Agustin >88 MR2 Twincharger >Cyber Racing, So Cal. Does anyone know the compression ratio of an Acura GS-R engine? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 20:22:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: horsepower / torque On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > > Does anyone know the compression ratio of an Acura GS-R engine? > It's 10.0:1 for a 1994 GS-R. Should be the same thru '96. -Jayson xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: ez020913@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: horsepower / torque Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 21:31:28 PDT From: Jayson Entao >On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, Gary Hong wrote: >> >> Does anyone know the compression ratio of an Acura GS-R engine? >> > It's 10.0:1 for a 1994 GS-R. Should be the same thru '96. > > -Jayson > DRAG makes a turbo for the GS-R. Do they put a lower compression piston on it before the turbo? I have heard of NOS'ed GS-R's- how do they keep them from detonating if they don't use lower compression pistons? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:45:50 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque > > You don't measure the time to slow down! U just read from the dynometer > what torque/hp the system needs momentarely to get things spinning... > > Once again... :) I Don't know if I understood correctly or missed something > of > the operation of the dyno, but I have seen this and the dyno first gives the > hp > figures delivered to the wheel. Then lifting throttle and engageing neutral > gear dyno gives the hp that the internal system takes. > > Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek > 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the > dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by > the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the > whole drivetrain). > > What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce > rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick > > shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle > etc.). > > -WhatdoIknowTimo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) =) Hmmm, I'm still confused! :-) If you measure the power required to keep everything moving at a constant rate, how do you separate out engine drag from transmission losses? Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 21:49:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: horsepower / torque On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > DRAG makes a turbo for the GS-R. Do they put a lower compression piston on it > before the turbo? I have heard of NOS'ed GS-R's- how do they keep them from > detonating if they don't use lower compression pistons? > Hmm, I think some put a thicker head gasket to prevent detonation. The serious ones use strengthened pistons and rods, and some Honda tuners advertise entire bottom end setups built up for turbo/NOS, i.e. block is sleeved and pinned. I've seen some horror stories with hastily-put-together pressurized setups though. You pretty much better know what you're doing...playing with fire so to speak.... -Jayson ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / || Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / / || ||/// / / / / / / / || jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / / ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / ASME UCD: http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/asme.html Volvo 855T: http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/VOLVO/850.html (soon) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 05:34:58 +0000 Subject: Spring Loaded Wind Deflectors > Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:24:57 -0400 > From: Mail Delivery Subsystem > Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours > To: > ********************************************** > ** THIS IS A WARNING MESSAGE ONLY ** > ** YOU DO NOT NEED TO RESEND YOUR MESSAGE ** > ********************************************** > > The original message was received at Sun, 21 Apr 1996 13:18:13 -0400 > from ppp188-91.fla.net [205.228.188.91] > > ----- The following addresses had delivery problems ----- > (transient failure) > > ----- Transcript of session follows ----- > Warning: message still undelivered after 4 hours > Will keep trying until message is 5 days old > > ----- Original message follows ----- > Thanks to those on the list who advised me that my mailer was screwed up, no comment for pea-brains that wanted to know why I was doing "this shit." The original message follows, obviously it didn't make it-- Sorry, no sunroof on my MK II MR2, but am I glad you mentioned deflectors and reminded me to ask this question!! When my T-Tops are out I have been able to find NO BENEFIT from the dual wind deflectors at speeds up to about 70mph. In fact, when I've held either one of them down while driving, I've found that wind noise drops dramatically!! When deflectors= up, they seem to greatly INCREASE wind NOISE-- especially at normal (aka legal, non-Montana) speeds. This occurs with the windows up, down, or whatever. Do the wind deflectors serve any useful purpose as far as cushioning shocks, or as a part of the seal, when the T-tops are in? I can't find a functional purpose for them when the Ts are out unless I am missing something here. Has anyone removed them for noise reasons with no ill effects?? Is it time to get out the duct tape?? Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!! MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: ez020913@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: horsepower / torque Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 1:06:10 PDT >On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > >> DRAG makes a turbo for the GS-R. Do they put a lower compression piston on it >> before the turbo? I have heard of NOS'ed GS-R's- how do they keep them from >> detonating if they don't use lower compression pistons? >> > Hmm, I think some put a thicker head gasket to prevent detonation. >The serious ones use strengthened pistons and rods, and some Honda tuners >advertise entire bottom end setups built up for turbo/NOS, i.e. block is >sleeved and pinned. I've seen some horror stories with >hastily-put-together pressurized setups though. You pretty much better >know what you're doing...playing with fire so to speak.... > The reason I ask is that the E30 BMW M3 has a compression ratio of 10.5 or so and I remember the GS-R is up there so I'm trying to figure out what GS-R people have done to NOS and/or turbo their cars as I want to modify my E30 M3. Dinan wants 20k for a turbo for an E30 M3 which I believe is outrageous, but it includes low compression pistons among other things. Ok, I know this is a toy list so I 'll get off the subject. Thanks, Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 13:16:23 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque > > This makes some sense to me... If the engine is providing 200 ft-lbs of torque, > the transmission-etc. is providing 30 ft-lbs of resistance, then the dyno reads > 170 ft-lbs (ie the amount of torque required to counteract the torque at the wheels). > At the instant you disengage the clutch, there is still 30 ft-lbs of resistance > being provided, so the dyno would read -30 ft-bls to counteract that torque at the > wheels. > > Not knowing how a dyno works, I assume that it measures torque required to keep the > wheels spinning at a constant speed. Once you disengaged the clutch, the transmission > slows the wheels down (and the engine is not involved), so the dyno could read negative > (theoretically). > > Thus, 170 - (-30) would be the torque available at the flywheel. > Ahh, I see now... the transmission is put in neutral. I should read more carefully! :-) I guess this wouldn't work for an automatic since putting it in neutral would eliminate the huge loss of the torque converter as well. Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Tires and Wheels Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 06:46:00 PDT You wrote: >Hi all... this may have been covered before, but I have a question about >the 205/55R14 tires. What is the optimum rim width for this tire? The 93 MR2 has 195/55 on 6" wheels and they are just about flat (no angle) on the sidewall. I would say that the 6" rim is your best bet. Although you could probably get away with your current 5.5" rim with no problems. I once had an 85 Supra with Dunlop D40-M2 245/50-15 on 15"x7" wheels and they fit the rim with no problems. The one problem I did have was on the car there wasn't much clearance on the inside on the wheelwell. So I had to reduce to a 225/50-15 and deal with some speedo error. The tire shop should also be able to tell you the best fit rim size for your tire. Or have them mount one and see how it looks. You should be able to tell right away. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Repair Manuals for 91MR2 Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 06:53:00 PDT If you are in the US, here is the number to Toyota Service Publications: (800) 622-2033 750 W. Victoria Street Compton, CA 90220-5538 ---------- Hi, Does someone out there have a set of repair manuals for the NA 91MR2 (with 3S-GE engine) for sale? - Or could tell me where I can get them? Thanks ---Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:11:04 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: horsepower / torque On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > Does anyone know the compression ratio of an Acura GS-R engine? > Gary ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Road racers go in deep and come out hard. Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Jamie Dennis - Imonics Corporation Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 10:32:18 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque > From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Apr 17 10:10 EDT 1996 > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:45:50 +0500 > From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: Re: Hp & Torque > X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII > Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com > Content-Type: text > Content-Length: 1250 > > > > > You don't measure the time to slow down! U just read from the dynometer > > what torque/hp the system needs momentarely to get things spinning... > > > > Once again... :) I Don't know if I understood correctly or missed something > > of > > the operation of the dyno, but I have seen this and the dyno first gives the > > hp > > figures delivered to the wheel. Then lifting throttle and engageing neutral > > gear dyno gives the hp that the internal system takes. > > > > Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek > > 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the > > dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by > > the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the > > whole drivetrain). > > > > What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce > > rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick > > > > shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle > > etc.). > > > > -WhatdoIknowTimo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) =) > > Hmmm, I'm still confused! :-) If you measure the power required to keep > everything moving at a constant rate, how do you separate out engine > drag from transmission losses? > > Jon > This makes some sense to me... If the engine is providing 200 ft-lbs of torque, the transmission-etc. is providing 30 ft-lbs of resistance, then the dyno reads 170 ft-lbs (ie the amount of torque required to counteract the torque at the wheels). At the instant you disengage the clutch, there is still 30 ft-lbs of resistance being provided, so the dyno would read -30 ft-bls to counteract that torque at the wheels. Not knowing how a dyno works, I assume that it measures torque required to keep the wheels spinning at a constant speed. Once you disengaged the clutch, the transmission slows the wheels down (and the engine is not involved), so the dyno could read negative (theoretically). Thus, 170 - (-30) would be the torque available at the flywheel. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 07:34:20 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: Gary Hong Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: horsepower / torque >DRAG makes a turbo for the GS-R. Do they put a lower compression piston on it >before the turbo? I have heard of NOS'ed GS-R's- how do they keep them from >detonating if they don't use lower compression pistons? a friend of mine spoke to the R&D department of DRAG and found out that the compression ratio of the integra VTEC engines are not what they seem. Acura advertises 10.1:1 just to pass US smog laws. When DRAG did an actual combustion chamber measurement, compression came out to around 9.5:1. Also, 10 psi is maximum that is run on any of those turbo kits for several reasons. First, they utilize an boost dependant fuel regulator (FMU) to maintain proper fuel ratio under boost. Due to extreme fuel rail pressures, 10 psi is tops. Second, they use a fairly efficient intercooler. I'm not saying these systems are fool proof. Fact is, I've seen and heard of too many kits melting the engines. They should of bought a Toyota!!! :) Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:38:37 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov (Stuart Banks) Subject: intake systems There are two basic conditions in the intake system; "dry" this is the condition that exists before any fuel is mixed with the air (either by carburation or injection) and "wet" this is the condition after fuel has been added. In the "dry" case very smooth walls with no sudden transitions help maintain laminar flow thus maximizing the volumetric flow rate, it is also beneficial in this case to keep the walls as cold as possible as heating will decrease the density of the air. In the "wet" condition the primary fear is that the fuel will separate itself from the air either by condensing on the cold manifold walls or "raining" to the bottom of the manifold. To prevent the "raining" the manifold walls should be slightly rough, this induces turbulence along the walls which helps prevent drops of fuel from forming. To prevent condensation the walls should be kept slightly warm. In real short wet manifolds the fear of separation is much less than in long ones, so what is best in one case may not be best in another. Hope this helps. ****************************** * stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov * * Stuart Banks * * NASA GSFC Code 713 * * Greenbelt, MD 20771 * * (301)286-5934 * ****************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 07:49:24 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: Bill Sherwood Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque > Yes, quite correct, but according to the formula given, >volumetric efficiency is not a factor - it doesn't matter if it's an F1 >engine or a lawnmower engine. As I have been told (Loudly!) horespower is >only a function of torque & revs. true, the math is there. But what do you think makes torque? The proper combustion of a given amount of air and fuel. Example, if a 2 liter engine(normally aspirated) with peak horsepower at 6000 rpm has a 80% volumtric efficiency and a Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of .50 , torque at the flywheel should be around 100.66 ft/lbs. As you can see, only 80% of 2.0 liters is entering the combustion chamber. Now let's go with an engine with highly tuned runners and headers which has a powerband high up there. If at the same rpm, the engine can achieve 115% volumtric efficiency with the same BSFC, torque output at the flywheel will be at 144.5 ft/lbs. Now using the same torque/rpm equations, the engine with a VE of 80% will make 115 Bhp @ 6000rpm. The engine with a VE of 115% will produce 165.1 Bhp @6000 rpm. I think volumetric efficiency plays an important factor in producing horsepower. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 17 Apr 96 11:45:38 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: Studdering Problem Hello all, I write you today to inform you of the outcome of my studdering problem. After hours of troubleshooting by SupraDave:), (Thanks again btw) He coma to the conclusion that the problem was most likely the distributor cap and/or rotor. So for about $45, I went to my local Toyota Dealer and bought new ones. I replaced them yesterday and am VERY HAPPY to say, that my car is running better than ever! I then reconnected the FCD and cranked the boost up to about 1.2 bar (1.3 when it spikes). Unfortunately, after having 4 days without power, I came across an unsuspecting Conquest TSI. I payed no mind to him, but we were at a red light and he was revving his engine. Naturally I felt the need to humble him. By the time I shifted into second the race was already over and the wait was worth it. (absence makes the heart......) Anyways, Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions! -Larry S. -91MR2T (Back in business!) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 10:13:50 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: Re: Hp & Torque >What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce >rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick > >shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle >etc.). By having the lighter flywheel, this gives less rotational inertia, a good thing as it helps you accelerate quicker. Unless you are staying at a constant speed, a lightened flywheel will let you accelerate faster than a heavy flywheel, essentially freeing up torque and horsepower. So a heavier flywheel does translate into greater transmission power loss. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 10:21:57 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: Re: horsepower / torque heh, my 22R has more torque than that! 129 lp-ft at 2800 rpm, and 96hp at 4800 rpm, not 4500... I guess this really is a truck engine (22R)! BTW, does anyone have any dyno charts for this engine(22R)? just curious Dave > ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 > Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM > Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm > Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm > Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 13:35:10 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque Gerald San Agustin wrote: > > > Yes, quite correct, but according to the formula given, > >volumetric efficiency is not a factor - it doesn't matter if it's an F1 > >engine or a lawnmower engine. As I have been told (Loudly!) horespower is > >only a function of torque & revs. > > true, the math is there. But what do you think makes torque? The proper combustion of a given amount of air > and fuel. Example, if a 2 liter engine(normally aspirated) with peak horsepower at 6000 rpm has a 80% > volumtric efficiency and a Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of .50 , torque at the flywheel should be > around 100.66 ft/lbs. As you can see, only 80% of 2.0 liters is entering the combustion chamber. > > Now let's go with an engine with highly tuned runners and headers which has a powerband high up there. If at > the same rpm, the engine can achieve 115% volumtric efficiency with the same BSFC, torque output at the > flywheel will be at 144.5 ft/lbs. > > Now using the same torque/rpm equations, the engine with a VE of 80% will make 115 Bhp @ 6000rpm. The engine > with a VE of 115% will produce 165.1 Bhp @6000 rpm. > > I think volumetric efficiency plays an important factor in producing horsepower. > > Gerald San Agustin > 88 MR2 Twincharger > Cyber Racing, So Cal. Some points that should be made. 1. Volumetric efficiency is not constant 2. Volumetric efficiency is directly proportional to torque 3. Peak Volumetric efficiency occurs at peak torque, not peak HP Mark xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 17 Apr 96 13:43:56 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: Quarter Mile Times I was wondering if any of you readers out there would mind mailing me directly their 1/4 mile times and their trap speeds with a list of their current mods. All MR2's MK1 & MK2 and all Supras. Thanks, -Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 12:48:58 -0500 To: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Re: Tires and Wheels Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Hi all... this may have been covered before, but I have a question about > >the 205/55R14 tires. What is the optimum rim width for this tire? Stock > >rims are 5.5 inches, and this is perhaps the minimum for this tire. I >have >Alternatively, how successful would running the 205's on the 5.5 inch rims > >be? Would the sidewalls be at too much of an angle to be effective? I'm > >thinking BFG R1s or YOKO A032s. > Dave- the 5.5 inch rim is the minimum recommended width for that tire size. The design width is, if I remember correctly, 6.5 I don't recall the widest recommended rim width, but could look it up if necessary. I asked the BFG Team T/A folks whether I should run 195/60's or 205/55's on my 14x5.5 rims for stock class autocross, and they said the 205's would be best. (for BFG R1's) But if you're not limited by racing rules, most tires will perform better on a wider rim. From an aesthetic standpoint, the 205's look a bit overdone on the 5.5" rims- the widest point is up near the tread rather than in mid-sidewall like most tires. But I care more about going fast on the racecourse than aesthetics, since I run different wheels/tires on the street. hope this helps Michael Leary Ithaca NY 1987 Corolla GT-S (E Stock) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 13:57:06 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Hp & Torque David wrote: > > >What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce > >rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick > > > >shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle > >etc.). > > By having the lighter flywheel, this gives less rotational inertia, a good > thing as it helps you accelerate quicker. Unless you are staying at a > constant speed, a lightened flywheel will let you accelerate faster than a > heavy flywheel, essentially freeing up torque and horsepower. So a heavier > flywheel does translate into greater transmission power loss. > > Dave Dave is correct, it takes less torque to accelerate the lighter flywheel. The first point of this message, written my someone else, is correct to some extent, but in real life, I'm not sure. How fast the revs drop has alot, if not all, to do with the computer. I remember reading about the Haltech E-5 or some other computer which allowed you to adjust how fast the revs fell after lifting... I assume the computer does not completely cut fuel, and then start again so the engine does not die. It controls the rate at which the revs drop, in which case a lighter flywheel may at best have little affect on this Mark xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 13:59:40 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Shims (4AG) To Chris and others, Bad news guys, the 270 degree cams I was given will need shims of 3.95 to 4.05mm, the average 4AG shim being 2.8-2.9mm and the largest orderable being 3.3. The shim makers that I have used in Australia cannot make these shims because they are too large for their equipment. If you convert your 4AG or 3SG to shim under then we are ok, but where to get cheap buckets? For this reason i'm leaving my 264 HKS's in place for now and will shelve this issue to a new engine for later on in the year. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: Re: Hp & Torque Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 12:58:00 PDT = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Earlier written: > B Man said that "...it would SEEM that the dyno is quite accurate...". Well > I > have understand that the dyno shows after the dyno run that how much > the "drive train" or what ever "loses/eats" horsepower. After hard dyno > just lift the throttle and press the clutch and let the dyno slow down the > speed. This way the dyno tells how much power is required to spin > transmission, rear end, gears etc. > > Corect me if I'm wrong... :) > > -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) > Wouldn't you still need to know the rotational inertia of the system to get anywhere. I mean, asuume I have the mother of all flywheels, it would take way longer for the wheels to slow down than if I had, say, no flywheel at all, even if everything else is the same? Jon = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Hi there! You don't measure the time to slow down! U just read from the dynometer what torque/hp the system needs momentarely to get things spinning... Once again... :) I Don't know if I understood correctly or missed something of the operation of the dyno, but I have seen this and the dyno first gives the hp figures delivered to the wheel. Then lifting throttle and engageing neutral gear dyno gives the hp that the internal system takes. Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the whole drivetrain). What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle etc.). -WhatdoIknowTimo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) =) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 15:26:06 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Subject: Re: Hp & Torque >> > You don't measure the time to slow down! U just read from the dynometer >> > what torque/hp the system needs momentarely to get things spinning... This method would work well in measuring how much torque/hp it requires to spin the wheels up to a certain speed with the tranny in neutral. Conversely, you could also measure the same thing by spinning it up to a certain speed and then measuring how much force and how long it takes to stop it. Dave >> > >> > Once again... :) I Don't know if I understood correctly or missed something >> > of >> > the operation of the dyno, but I have seen this and the dyno first gives the >> > hp >> > figures delivered to the wheel. Then lifting throttle and engageing neutral >> > gear dyno gives the hp that the internal system takes. >> > >> > Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek >> > 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the >> > dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by >> > the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the >> > whole drivetrain). >> > >> > What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce >> > rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick >> > >> > shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle >> > etc.). >> > >> > -WhatdoIknowTimo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) =) >> >> Hmmm, I'm still confused! :-) If you measure the power required to keep >> everything moving at a constant rate, how do you separate out engine >> drag from transmission losses? >> >> Jon >> > >This makes some sense to me... If the engine is providing 200 ft-lbs of torque, >the transmission-etc. is providing 30 ft-lbs of resistance, then the dyno reads >170 ft-lbs (ie the amount of torque required to counteract the torque at the wheels). >At the instant you disengage the clutch, there is still 30 ft-lbs of resistance >being provided, so the dyno would read -30 ft-bls to counteract that torque at the >wheels. > >Not knowing how a dyno works, I assume that it measures torque required to keep the >wheels spinning at a constant speed. Once you disengaged the clutch, the transmission >slows the wheels down (and the engine is not involved), so the dyno could read negative >(theoretically). > >Thus, 170 - (-30) would be the torque available at the flywheel. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Integra GS-R vs. Mk1 MR2 To: kronvold@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Mike Kronvold) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 18:32:33 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > > Does anyone know the compression ratio of an Acura GS-R engine? > > Gary > > ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 > Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM > Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm > Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm > Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm > > - Mike > -- > Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering > (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA > Road racers go in deep and come out hard. > Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation. > Mike, Would you also have the curb weight, gear ratios, and final drive ratio information on the Integra GS-R? I would like to compare it to my '85 MR2. I'd like to see how close I'm getting to it's power with my car after some modification. Theoretically, the mk1 MR2 normally aspirated shouldn't need as much horsepower and torque to match the GS-R's acceleration numbers since it has two advantages over it (rear wheel drive, and mid-engined). Heck, the MR2 SuperCharged matches the GS-R's acceleration with 145hp and 140 lb-ft of torque. The Integra would probably make a good all weather car though. I would like to know the GS-R's weight, gearing, and final drive figures for comparison if you have them. Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: (Mk1) Illumina and Eibach Prog combo To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 18:53:14 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu To those running Tokico Illuminas and Eibach Progressive springs together on a Mk1 MR2: Can you please email me on how this combination feels in terms of ride harshness on the street and on the highway compared to Illuminas with stock springs. Thank you, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 17:53:48 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Integra GS-R vs. Mk1 MR2 On Wed, 17 Apr 1996, aly abulkheir wrote: > > ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 > > Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM > > Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm > > Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm > > Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm > Mike, > Would you also have the curb weight, gear ratios, and final drive > ratio information on the Integra GS-R? I would like to compare it to my '85 > MR2. I'd like to see how close I'm getting to it's power with my car after > some modification. ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm Transmission: 5 speed MANUAL Gear ratios 1st: 3.23:1 4th: 1.03:1 2nd: 1.90:1 5th: 0.79:1 3rd: 1.36:1 6th: :1 Final drive ratio: 4.40:1 Driving wheels: FRONT Car test weight: 2810 lb. % weight on front wheels: 63 % Wheelbase: 101.2 in. Tire section width: 195 mm. Tire circumf. (opt.): 5.84 ft. Wheel diameter: 15.0 in. Tire profile: 55 % Coefficient of drag: 0.325 Frontal area (opt.): sq.ft. Overall height: 52.6 in. Overall width: 67.2 in. Ground clearance: 5.9 in. oh, and for the hell of it... ACURA INTEGRA GS-R DRAG TURBO 1994 Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:TURBO Horsepower: 270 bhp @ 7600 rpm Torque: 195 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm Comp Ratio:10.0:1 Redline: 8100 rpm Transmission: 5 speed MANUAL Gear ratios 1st: 3.23:1 4th: 1.03:1 2nd: 1.90:1 5th: 0.79:1 3rd: 1.36:1 6th: :1 Final drive ratio: 4.40:1 Car test weight: 2885 lb. % weight on front wheels: 63 % Wheelbase: 101.2 in. Tire section width: 195 mm. Tire circumf. (opt.): 5.84 ft. Wheel diameter: 15.0 in. Tire profile: 55 % Coefficient of drag: 0.326 Frontal area (opt.): sq.ft. Overall height: 52.6 in. Overall width: 67.2 in. Ground clearance: 5.9 in. for comparison's sake... - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Road racers go in deep and come out hard. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tony Lanterman Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 19:29:51 -0700 (PDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Carb Flow Rates Does anybody know how to figure out the cfm (cubic feet per minute) of a given carb with the thing sitting on a desk? I've got a 4bbl carb sitting on my desk that was left over from a engine swap on a Ma*da 13B rotary. It makes a cool paperweight, but I think it could be more useful on something that moves. Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:44:01 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: Carb Flow Rates Does anybody know how to figure out the cfm (cubic feet per minute) of a given carb with the thing sitting on a desk? I've got a 4bbl carb sitting on my desk that was left over from a engine swap on a Ma*da 13B rotary. It makes a cool paperweight, but I think it could be more useful on something that moves. Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:44:15 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: (Mk1) Illumina and Eibach Prog combo Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu To those running Tokico Illuminas and Eibach Progressive springs together on a Mk1 MR2: Can you please email me on how this combination feels in terms of ride harshness on the street and on the highway compared to Illuminas with stock springs. Thank you, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:44:23 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: Re: Integra GS-R vs. Mk1 MR2 On Wed, 17 Apr 1996, aly abulkheir wrote: > > ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 > > Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM > > Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm > > Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm > > Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm > Mike, > Would you also have the curb weight, gear ratios, and final drive > ratio information on the Integra GS-R? I would like to compare it to my '85 > MR2. I'd like to see how close I'm getting to it's power with my car after > some modification. ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm Transmission: 5 speed MANUAL Gear ratios 1st: 3.23:1 4th: 1.03:1 2nd: 1.90:1 5th: 0.79:1 3rd: 1.36:1 6th: :1 Final drive ratio: 4.40:1 Driving wheels: FRONT Car test weight: 2810 lb. % weight on front wheels: 63 % Wheelbase: 101.2 in. Tire section width: 195 mm. Tire circumf. (opt.): 5.84 ft. Wheel diameter: 15.0 in. Tire profile: 55 % Coefficient of drag: 0.325 Frontal area (opt.): sq.ft. Overall height: 52.6 in. Overall width: 67.2 in. Ground clearance: 5.9 in. oh, and for the hell of it... ACURA INTEGRA GS-R DRAG TURBO 1994 Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:TURBO Horsepower: 270 bhp @ 7600 rpm Torque: 195 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm Comp Ratio:10.0:1 Redline: 8100 rpm Transmission: 5 speed MANUAL Gear ratios 1st: 3.23:1 4th: 1.03:1 2nd: 1.90:1 5th: 0.79:1 3rd: 1.36:1 6th: :1 Final drive ratio: 4.40:1 Car test weight: 2885 lb. % weight on front wheels: 63 % Wheelbase: 101.2 in. Tire section width: 195 mm. Tire circumf. (opt.): 5.84 ft. Wheel diameter: 15.0 in. Tire profile: 55 % Coefficient of drag: 0.326 Frontal area (opt.): sq.ft. Overall height: 52.6 in. Overall width: 67.2 in. Ground clearance: 5.9 in. for comparison's sake... - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Road racers go in deep and come out hard. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:44:37 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: Re: Hp & Torque >> > You don't measure the time to slow down! U just read from the dynometer >> > what torque/hp the system needs momentarely to get things spinning... This method would work well in measuring how much torque/hp it requires to spin the wheels up to a certain speed with the tranny in neutral. Conversely, you could also measure the same thing by spinning it up to a certain speed and then measuring how much force and how long it takes to stop it. Dave >> > >> > Once again... :) I Don't know if I understood correctly or missed something >> > of >> > the operation of the dyno, but I have seen this and the dyno first gives the >> > hp >> > figures delivered to the wheel. Then lifting throttle and engageing neutral >> > gear dyno gives the hp that the internal system takes. >> > >> > Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek >> > 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the >> > dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by >> > the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the >> > whole drivetrain). >> > >> > What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce >> > rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick >> > >> > shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle >> > etc.). >> > >> > -WhatdoIknowTimo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) =) >> >> Hmmm, I'm still confused! :-) If you measure the power required to keep >> everything moving at a constant rate, how do you separate out engine >> drag from transmission losses? >> >> Jon >> > >This makes some sense to me... If the engine is providing 200 ft-lbs of torque, >the transmission-etc. is providing 30 ft-lbs of resistance, then the dyno reads >170 ft-lbs (ie the amount of torque required to counteract the torque at the wheels). >At the instant you disengage the clutch, there is still 30 ft-lbs of resistance >being provided, so the dyno would read -30 ft-bls to counteract that torque at the >wheels. > >Not knowing how a dyno works, I assume that it measures torque required to keep the >wheels spinning at a constant speed. Once you disengaged the clutch, the transmission >slows the wheels down (and the engine is not involved), so the dyno could read negative >(theoretically). > >Thus, 170 - (-30) would be the torque available at the flywheel. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:44:53 -0500 (CDT) To: Toyota Mods From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: RE: Repair Manuals for 91MR2 If you are in the US, here is the number to Toyota Service Publications: (800) 622-2033 750 W. Victoria Street Compton, CA 90220-5538 ---------- Hi, Does someone out there have a set of repair manuals for the NA 91MR2 (with 3S-GE engine) for sale? - Or could tell me where I can get them? Thanks ---Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:45:49 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: intake systems There are two basic conditions in the intake system; "dry" this is the condition that exists before any fuel is mixed with the air (either by carburation or injection) and "wet" this is the condition after fuel has been added. In the "dry" case very smooth walls with no sudden transitions help maintain laminar flow thus maximizing the volumetric flow rate, it is also beneficial in this case to keep the walls as cold as possible as heating will decrease the density of the air. In the "wet" condition the primary fear is that the fuel will separate itself from the air either by condensing on the cold manifold walls or "raining" to the bottom of the manifold. To prevent the "raining" the manifold walls should be slightly rough, this induces turbulence along the walls which helps prevent drops of fuel from forming. To prevent condensation the walls should be kept slightly warm. In real short wet manifolds the fear of separation is much less than in long ones, so what is best in one case may not be best in another. Hope this helps. ****************************** * stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov * * Stuart Banks * * NASA GSFC Code 713 * * Greenbelt, MD 20771 * * (301)286-5934 * ****************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:45:57 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: Re: Hp & Torque > > You don't measure the time to slow down! U just read from the dynometer > what torque/hp the system needs momentarely to get things spinning... > > Once again... :) I Don't know if I understood correctly or missed something > of > the operation of the dyno, but I have seen this and the dyno first gives the > hp > figures delivered to the wheel. Then lifting throttle and engageing neutral > gear dyno gives the hp that the internal system takes. > > Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek > 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the > dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by > the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the > whole drivetrain). > > What comes to lightened flywheel it doesn't increase horsepower just reduce > rotational mass a bit and so providing sharper rpm changes (ex. making quick > > shifts possible becouse engine rews down more quickly when lifting throttle > etc.). > > -WhatdoIknowTimo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) =) Hmmm, I'm still confused! :-) If you measure the power required to keep everything moving at a constant rate, how do you separate out engine drag from transmission losses? Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 23:46:12 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) Subject: Re: horsepower / torque On Tue, 16 Apr 1996, Gary Hong wrote: > Does anyone know the compression ratio of an Acura GS-R engine? > Gary ACURA INTEGRA GS-R 1994 Disp: 1797 cc. Loc:FRONT Type:NORM Horsepower: 170 bhp @ 7600 rpm Torque: 128 lb-ft @ 6200 rpm Comp Ratio:10.2:1 Redline: 8100 rpm - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Administrator, Addison Machine Engineering (708) 543-9191 424 Interstate Road Addison, Illinois 60101 USA Road racers go in deep and come out hard. Toyota Supra Turbo, anything else is mere transportation. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 22:58:43 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: intake systems So now the question is, if I wanted to make it a little smoother, would I likely notice any difference in power? For example, if I sanded it down with 45-60 grit sandpaper? Thanks for all the help, Dave >From: minkor19@server.iadfw.net (DougCarlson) >There are two basic conditions in the intake system; "dry" this is the >condition that exists before any fuel is mixed with the air (either by >carburation or injection) and "wet" this is the condition after fuel has >been added. >In the "dry" case very smooth walls with no sudden transitions help >maintain laminar flow thus maximizing the volumetric flow rate, it is also >beneficial in this case to keep the walls as cold as possible as heating >will decrease the density of the air. >In the "wet" condition the primary fear is that the fuel will separate >itself from the air either by condensing on the cold manifold walls or >"raining" to the bottom of the manifold. To prevent the "raining" the >manifold walls should be slightly rough, this induces turbulence along the >walls which helps prevent drops of fuel from forming. To prevent >condensation the walls should be kept slightly warm. >In real short wet manifolds the fear of separation is much less than in >long ones, so what is best in one case may not be best in another. >Hope this helps. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 23:24:54 -0700 To: Gary Hong , From: Aric Shen Subject: Re: horsepower / torque A >DRAG makes a turbo for the GS-R. Do they put a lower compression piston on it >before the turbo? I have heard of NOS'ed GS-R's- how do they keep them from >detonating if they don't use lower compression pistons? > >Gary > The DRAG kits don't really come with anything to "prevent" detonation.. the offer an intercooler setup with the kit and a Vortech fuel regulator for increased fuel delivery.. the DRAG GS-Rs run consistent mid 13s at about 10-12 psi without any dentonation problems.. my friend is running a DRAG kit on an older (91) Integra with 12 psi.. he ran 12.94 on slicks.. no detonation there either.. % Aric Shen % % Speedline Racing Concepts % % 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 % % e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com % % home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted % & check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic % xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 00:07:41 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Aric Shen Subject: Cheap factory replacement body parts I got into a little accident yesterday and was wondering if anyone knew of any place or company that sells cheap factory or cheap aftermarket body panels (front passenger fender) or bumper parts (cover and re-enforcements).. I got a quote from a body shop for a $183 for the fender and $160 for the bumper cover.. but that is assuming that I will let him paint the car when I'm done with the body work.. btw, this is for an 86 MR2.. any help will be greatly appreciated.. thanks % Aric Shen % % Speedline Racing Concepts % % 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 % % e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com % % home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted % & check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic % xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: (Mk1) Illumina and Eibach Prog combo Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 06:57:00 PDT Aly, I don't have an MR2 with this setup, but I did have an 85 supra with a similar setup. I replaced the factory springs struts/shock with the Illumians and Suspension Techniques springs. I'm not sure about Eibach springs but the Suspension Techniques springs didn't seem to be any stiffer than the factory ones. They just lowered the ride height and provided a progressive rate. The struts/shocks on the other hand made a big difference in ride comfort. On setting 1 of the struts/shocks it felt like a big Cadilac. On setting five they we're so stiff it felt like straight rods. I usually used setting 3 for around Northern VA. I used to soften them up when traveling in Washington DC due to the bad roads. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ---------- To those running Tokico Illuminas and Eibach Progressive springs together on a Mk1 MR2: Can you please email me on how this combination feels in terms of ride harshness on the street and on the highway compared to Illuminas with stock springs. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Cheap factory replacement body parts Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 07:40:00 PDT Check out JC Whitney. I know they have some parts for Corollas. ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: Cheap factory replacement body parts Date: Thursday, April 18, 1996 12:07AM I got into a little accident yesterday and was wondering if anyone knew of any place or company that sells cheap factory or cheap aftermarket body panels (front passenger fender) or bumper parts (cover and re-enforcements).. I got a quote from a body shop for a $183 for the fender and $160 for the bumper cover.. but that is assuming that I will let him paint the car when I'm done with the body work.. btw, this is for an 86 MR2.. any help will be greatly appreciated.. thanks xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 11:26:49 -0700 From: "Jeff Montigny, New Produtcs Engineer" To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Offer: Toyota EFI System Monitor Greetings all Toyota groups, Many of you have been offered the Vf Meter I have designed. I have hand-produced the meter for more than two dozen Supras, MR2s, 4-Runners, and Camrys from around the world. I am making another offer of sale, I am exploring the option to have the PC boards professionally manufactured by a prototype-house. This would be a significant increase in parts cost, but a decrease in production effort and a good increase in quality and reliability. I may discontinue the hand-produciton of Vf meters after the completion of the current orders. I want to move onto exploring the producion of my own-designed Turbo Timer, which is more beneficial to the Turbo cars. For a refresher, please visit: http://www.supras.com/m_offer2.html (This is an opportunity presented by a contributing individual of the Supra Owners Group. This is not an ad by any business. This project was created by the collation of the Supras Group's knowledge base.) -- ___ ___ ___ ____ Jeff M. - '89 HKS Stage III \___ \ \ \__) \__) \___\ Every thing else is just transportation. ___\ \___\ \ \ \ \ \ ____ ___ ___ ____ --- Supra Owners Group, Intl. --- \ \ \ \__) \ ) \ \ See me at: http://www.supras.com \ \___\ \ \ \__) \___\ E-Mail : supras-info@supras.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: JeffS670@aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 15:51:00 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods -jeff s 670 aka jeffery s. bihn -biloxi, mississippi -1991 toyota mr2 turbo -not sure of type - 4 cylinder, 2.0 liter fuel injection, turbo, five speed manual tansmission? -no modifications done yet xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 16:22:15 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: JeffS670@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: me/mine/mods JeffS670@aol.com wrote: > > -jeff s 670 aka jeffery s. bihn > -biloxi, mississippi > -1991 toyota mr2 turbo > -not sure of type - 4 cylinder, 2.0 liter fuel injection, turbo, five speed > manual tansmission? > -no modifications done yet Manual is where you shift gears, automatic is where the car does it for you. :) you've got a turbo, so you've also got a 5 speed. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 19:50:31 -0400 From: Gavin Vess To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2: me/mine/mods - MR2 with V8 engine? Name : Gavin Vess Location : Fairfax, VA (near Arlington) Model : MR2 Engine/Mods : email : vess@verdi.sra.com Well, I am now committed to buying an MR2. I've scrounged through thousands of old postings looking for scraps on complete engine swaps for an MR2 - MkI or MkII. The only reference I found was to a license plate - "MR2 AV8R" on an MR2 in California. How do I find out which V8's will fit? I know of several reliable places that sell performance V8's in many flavors, but I don't know anyone that has successfully mounted a V8 in an MR2. Who knows which rear suspension replacements will be required to mate a V8 (e.g. a Chevy small block)? Would this require stealing space from the trunk (i.e. a little torchwork)? If I can keep these mods under $10k, I'll do it, otherwise I'll content myself with a turbo MkII. -- Gavin Vess, MR2 owner wanabe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 16:58:08 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Cheap factory replacement body parts >I got into a little accident yesterday and was wondering if anyone knew of >any place or company that sells cheap factory or cheap aftermarket body >panels (front passenger fender) or bumper parts (cover and >re-enforcements).. I got a quote from a body shop for a $183 for the fender >and $160 for the bumper cover.. but that is assuming that I will let him >paint the car when I'm done with the body work.. btw, this is for an 86 >MR2.. any help will be greatly appreciated.. thanks >% Aric Shen % The local pick and pull is always a great place to look. Try to look for one that specializes in Toyotas. I was in a little fenderbender myself a few years ago, and broke my rear taillight assembly ('81 Celica Liftback). They wanted $240 from the dealer, and like half that from the bodyshop. I went to the Toyota junk yard, and bought that for like $30 (perfect condition, just dirty), and while I was there, saw some alloy wheels on a 85 Celica (14x8s? 205/60s a big improvement over my stock 185/70s). They wanted $40 each, a great deal (lots of brake dust caked on, but cleaned up OK), but being stingy, offered $150 for both the taillight assembly and wheels and they gave them to me. Needless to say I was a happy camper! David xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: myt@cypress.com (Micky Thutiyakul / Product Engineer) Subject: Re: HP & Torque To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 17:30:47 -0800 (PDT) > > Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek > 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the > dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by > the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the Just wondering about the hp on the beetle...120 hp. And it still goes 13.5 sec on the quarter mile? Maybe it's time to switch brands :( or maybe that "+" is more than what I think it is :) Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 11:45:36 +1000 From: John Rose Subject: MR2 SW20 gear selection cable To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Greetings all! After replacing the broken gear selection cable in my early model SW20, I still have a problem. Just wondering if this is an MR2 thing or just my car? When I'm really moving and changing through the gears quickly I feel pops as if the selector is sticking and there is a short period before the cable takes up the slack? The car has always done this, but I thought it was the sign of an ailing cable. If anyone has any info please reply as I don't want to damage my new cable assembly. The new cable cost AUS$330 and modified guide plate AUS$70.....not cheap! Thanks in anticipation! -------------------------------------------------------- John Rose - SCADA Network Oficer MITS Ltd. .-._|\ 28 Thornton Crescent, / AUS. \ Mitcham Victoria 3132. \_.--.x/<---Email - jrose@golf.mits.com.au (VMS) v Phone - +61 3 9873-1755 Fax - +61 3 9874-6940 -------------------------------------------------------- There are two major products to come out of Berkeley: LSD and UNIX. I don't believe this to be a coincidence! -------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 18 Apr 96 23:18:21 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Rusting exhaust Is there anyway to keep my stainless steel Trust exhaust from rusting? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 18 Apr 96 23:18:23 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Horsepower What is the relation/equation between engine/crankshaft horsepower versus dynoed or horsepower at the wheels? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 07:30:35 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Trust Exhaust >Is there anyway to keep my stainless steel Trust exhaust from rusting? If it's really stainless, you need to do nothing! Good stainless steel won't rust. If it's aluminized metal, it may rust, and I don't think there's anything you can do about it, except try not to drive short distances in the mornings alot... this tends to cause lots of water to condense in the exhaust system and will rust it out from the inside (how most all of them fail). A longer drive to work will dry out the muffler before you park it. Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 08:13:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: me/mine/mods On Thu, 18 Apr 1996, Mark Sink wrote: > JeffS670@aol.com wrote: > > > > -jeff s 670 aka jeffery s. bihn > > -biloxi, mississippi > > -1991 toyota mr2 turbo > > -not sure of type - 4 cylinder, 2.0 liter fuel injection, turbo, five speed > > manual tansmission? > > -no modifications done yet > > Manual is where you shift gears, automatic is where the car does it for > you. :) I think he meant he doesn't know the engine designation, in this case 3SGTE. I don't blame him tho...Toyota has soooo many engines..... -Jayson xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 08:37:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MR2: me/mine/mods - MR2 with V8 engine? On Thu, 18 Apr 1996, Gavin Vess wrote: > > The only reference I found was to a license plate > - "MR2 AV8R" on an MR2 in California. > Errrr, maybe someone else may jump in here but I think that the plate is meant to spell out "MR2 Aviator". You know, AV8R=Aviator as in he loves to FLY in his machine. I'm not surprised! > How do I find out which V8's will fit? > I know of several reliable places that sell performance V8's > in many flavors, but I don't know anyone that has > successfully mounted a V8 in an MR2. > Hmmm come to think of it I haven't heard of _anything_ other than built 4-bangers going into that tiny engine bay. I suppose a v-6 _might_ fit, but the costs of having the thing custom installed would probably not be worth it. You're going to run into problems with the cooling system, structure, accesory placement, etc...big headache. I'm having enough problems with my project, and _it's_ been done before. > Would this require stealing space from the trunk > (i.e. a little torchwork)? Heh...might need a little more room than that...maybe if you eliminate the driver and passenger seats you'll have room for that monster. =) Seriously though, you may want to reconsider your powerplant choices. I think the MR-2 is perfectly balanced to accept high revving, lightweight engines and was designed that way. Maybe you're building up a drag racer, but there's cheaper ways to go with that, even staying with Toyota. A built 3SGTE will go like hell in the straights _and_ the twisties. And have you seen Gerald's Mk I? Actually in the last SCC mag there was a Porsche 911 with a V-8 stuck in back. Anything's possible given a little imagination and a lot of dough. =) > If I can keep these mods under $10k, I'll do it, > otherwise I'll content myself with a turbo MkII. > Wow...I'd be content with a Mk I or II...but i'm still considering the "rice rocket" (read: 4AG powered Starlet) project for now. -Jayson ps. I've been offered to put a small-block Chevy V-8 in my car as well. Can you believe that? =P xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Trust Exhaust Date: Fri, 19 Apr 96 08:40:00 PDT Actually, there are several grades of stainless steel. But they all rust eventually. Just not as easily as regular steel. The highway departments are using a newer type of steel for their guardrails and bridges, etc., etc.. I don't know the name of it, but it rusts just slightly and the rust protects the rest of the steel. In otherwords it never needs painting or replaced unless it gets damaged. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil ---------- If it's really stainless, you need to do nothing! Good stainless steel won't rust. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 12:09:33 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Toyota-mods I have a 1990 4-Runner with the 3.0 V6 and I am considering purchasing headers from North West Off Road (NWOR) as theirs are a flange fit instead of a slip fit (Downeys Headers). Downey does not recomment coating their headers due to the slip fittings did not have coating in mind when the headers were designed. Also the NWOR headers are constructed of 14 gauge whereas the Downey headers are constructed of 16 gauge. The NWOR headers also have a 3/8" flange whereas the Downey headers have a 5/16" flange. If anyone has purchased the NWOR headers I would like to hear from you in regards to their performance, did you have the headers coated and how was NWOR to deal with? The NWOR claim to have a lifetime warranty against everything but rust, however if coated new, Jett Hot guarantees the headers against rust for life! Also, if anyone knows of any other header manufactures for this particular engine, 90 4-Runner with 3.0L V6, I would like to get in touch with other manufactures to look at their product as well. So far I have contacted Downey, NWOR, LC Engineering who does not make headers for the 3.0 V6 but they do for the 4 cyl. and Doug Thourley who also does not make headers for the 3.0 V6. Please reply to steev@bnr.ca and copy kkrg66a@prodigy.com (my home account) Thanks, Steve McAlister xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 20:12:56 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: VINTAGE YEARS ETC Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Well as we have seen a lot on the year/model and some are confused, here is the datres on which changed have taken place of the MR2 MKII. In most cases those dates denote a new model launch (factory wise). US/Canada MK II NA and Turbo models (year month) 90 01 90 03 90 04 90 05 90 06 91 02 91 03 91 06 91 11 92 01 92 05 92 08 93 02 93 04 93 08 93 09 93 11 94 10 One should obtain the correct year/month date of his car in order to make sure he gets the correct parts. The year/month combination derives from the chasis serial number as follows: 9001 9002 9003 9004 9005 sw20 0001 5805 8328 11776 14694 sw21 0001 954 1795 2900 4211 9006 9007 9008 9009 9010 9011 9012 17550 20446 23235 25473 28163 31302 34228 05339 06304 07148 07806 08844 09844 10674 9101 9102 9103 9104 9105 36685 38690 40998 43868 46398 11450 12116 12785 13083 13389 9106 9107 9108 9109 9110 48859 51481 53994 55286 56911 13632 14063 14754 15516 16012 9111 9112 9201 9202 9203 58292 59266 61691 63707 65197 16872 17720 17810 18301 18470 9204 9205 9206 9207 9208 67138 68960 70447 72031 73718 18643 18689 18823 18925 19064 9209 9210 9211 9212 74852 76232 77466 78481 19231 19465 19762 20086 9301 79285 20271 It seems that on 9301 there was a parallel production for we have one more set of chasis serial numbers 9301 9302 9303 9304 9305 79386 80343 81554 82865 83894 20288 20642 21016 21084 21158 9306 9307 9308 9309 84699 85568 86398 86845 21197 21261 21315 I somewhere have the rest of the 93 and the 94 numbers as well as the European ones till 95 but not available right now. European etc models start out from 89 12 It seems that cars into the US started from Jan 90 production batches. All are manufactured at the Central Sagamihara Plant (whoever is the owner!!) Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 20:52:15 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: '91-'93+ Suspension Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Kostas, > Am I correct in thinking that the only significant _front_ suspension >changes made to the '93+T's vs. the '91's were the lowering springs, >strut dust boot, sway bar/linkage, and alignment settings? If those >were the only changes, then I'm going to install the Energy Suspension >polyurethane bushings in my front suspension. As Energy only lists a >93+ front fitment, I hope the 91/92's are only different in the >aforementioned areas. ;-) > >Thanks, > >Cal Smith >cal@cal-tech.com Check the list of parts. There is a difference with the strut bar assy. The 91 is adjustable with a different mounting to the chassis.The 92 + is fixed. > I could NOT e-mail you direct so I am piping it via other routes Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 19 Apr 96 15:06:15 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: Misc. Ailments... Hi All, Just two quick questions. (1) As you all know I have a 91MR2T. My intermittant wipers don't work, and when I shut the regular wipers off, they stop wherever they are on the window. (2) My windows rattle. Is there any way to tighten the track so they don't bounce around when they are open?? Thanks again, -Larry Saccone Jr. -91' MR2T -103617,1033@compuserve.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: Beahaviour manners.... Date: Fri, 19 Apr 96 13:39:00 PDT Hi there! I have been thinkin' this many times and just posted a mail to our company's internal e-mail bulletinboard too... It would be nice if all of us would signature all comments we send to the list. I found wery it irretating to read mails that don't have signatures. Really don't know who is saying what and who was the guy that knew about this etc. So please, if this is not too hard, signature your comments and e-mails! Like we signature the letters we send to our friends... Thanks =) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) Examble here: ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: JeffS670 Cc: toyota-mods Subject: Re: me/mine/mods Date: 18. 04. 1996 16:22 JeffS670@aol.com wrote: > > -jeff s 670 aka jeffery s. bihn > -biloxi, mississippi > -1991 toyota mr2 turbo > -not sure of type - 4 cylinder, 2.0 liter fuel injection, turbo, five speed > manual tansmission? > -no modifications done yet Manual is where you shift gears, automatic is where the car does it for you. :) you've got a turbo, so you've also got a 5 speed. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 14:39:05 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Re: '91-'93+ Suspension To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos" Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Well I don't know about the differences but I have a '91T and finished installing the rear bushings last weekend and had a look at the fronts (I have a set of the Energy Suspension bushings). I will describe some of the notable things about the bushing swap in another mailing. As far as the fronts go, I would say that the strut bar bushings that come with the set are not for my car. They are quite a bit bigger than anything that would go there now, and I'm not sure there's enough adjustment on the strut bar to make those bushings work. (I didn't actually end up trying them though). The front sway bar bushings were no problem. At first glance, the control arm bushings look like they will work, but I will take a closer look on the weekend. If it looks OK I may give it a shot. Thing is, you only get one chance, cause you have to destroy the existing (stock) bushings to get them out. I will report on my findings on Monday. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged > >Kostas, > > Am I correct in thinking that the only significant _front_ suspension > >changes made to the '93+T's vs. the '91's were the lowering springs, > >strut dust boot, sway bar/linkage, and alignment settings? If those > >were the only changes, then I'm going to install the Energy Suspension > >polyurethane bushings in my front suspension. As Energy only lists a > >93+ front fitment, I hope the 91/92's are only different in the > >aforementioned areas. ;-) > > > >Thanks, > > > >Cal Smith > >cal@cal-tech.com > > Check the list of parts. There is a difference with the strut bar assy. The > 91 is adjustable with a different mounting to the chassis.The 92 + is fixed. > > > > I could NOT e-mail you direct so I am piping it via other routes > Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. > ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS > Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr > > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: Re: HP & Torque Date: Fri, 19 Apr 96 14:03:00 PDT Hi Micky and others! = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = > Example is my friends VW Beetle turbo that dynoed +120hp (13.5 sek > 1/4 mile) at wheel and when lifting throtle and with neutral gear the > dynometer showed -22 hp! That's to my knowledge the hp needed by > the internal systems (engine rotational mass & internal friction and the Just wondering about the hp on the beetle...120 hp. And it still goes 13.5 sec on the quarter mile? Maybe it's time to switch brands :( or maybe that "+" is more than what I think it is :) Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = I just called my friend and asked how this was! So I maked a small mistake here - heh.... This time was actually 13.42 sek with trap speed 170km/h (105 mph) (the fuel delivery problems occured always at 300 meter mark at 403 meter = quartermail so the trap speed would have been better). The horse power at engine was estimated +160hp (car weighted 750kg with driver). This hp was my mistake - I mixed two summers... The summer before last summer there were 142hp at engine and 120hp at wheel. The Beetle ran 13.9 sek. with normal street tyres. The hp gain was reached with bigger cylinder heads and with new cam. The setup is stock 1.6 aircooled is it type 1 or something engine with Garret TO3 and one drawtrough Dellorto carburetor with boost forced water injection. It's one monster street KILLER... actually becouse it don't have any breaks... =) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 15:08:36 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Installing Poly bushings on '91T MR2 (Rear) To: MR2-Interest List Cc: Toyota Mods List Last weekend I swapped out the stock bushings on my '91 MR2 Turbo with polyurethane bushings by Energy Suspension (thanks to Chris Myer @ Cyberspace Automotive Performance). I only did the rear ones last weekend and started on the fronts. To replace the sway bar bushings in the rear requires taking nearly the whole rear end apart (with the exception of the struts) or so it seemed. Since I was replacing the strut bar bushings and control arm bushings, most of all this had to be removed anyway. For the most part, removal of everything is per the Toyota shop manuals. Remove the strut bar and control arm completely. I left the sway bar link attached to the strut and only removed it from the sway bar. The rear cross-member needs to be removed as indicated, but you really only need to lower it just enough to get at the 'hidden' bolt attaching the sway bar bushing. I did not remove the exhaust mount point from the rear cross-member and just carefully let the exhaust come down with the rear cross-member held up by a jack. To do this I did disconnect the exhaust tips from their mounting point. Since the whole thing doesn't have to drop all too much, this was fine. I personally couldn't see how I would have removed the exhaust from the rear cross-member anyway since there's no room to work in there. To remove the stock bushings (which are actually the best 'stock' bushings I've seen) out of the control arm and strut rod took some work. Couldn't just drill them out, since the bushings have some metal inside them to reinforce them. What we ended up doing was heating them up real good, and then pushing the bushing out with a vice by putting a socket just large enough to fit against the metal sleeve inside the bushing and using a short 2" diameter piece of pipe on the other side, into which the bushing would go as it was pressed out by the socket. The trick to getting it all back together again, was to insert the strut rod into the control arm (with the bushing at that location), but do not put the nut on there yet. Bolt on the control arm first. Then jack up the suspension a bit (jack up under the strut) so that the control arm and strut arm are closer to horizontal so that you can get the bushing onto the strut rod (where it connects to the control arm) and get the nut on there. Then you can reconnect the other end of the strut rod to the chassis. Drop everything back down. Tighten partially. Put on wheels, put car down, bounce it up and down to let everything settle, then lift it back up and tighten everthing per the manual. Try this in any other order and you will have one heck of a time with it... trust me :-) The reason I mention all of this, is that the shop manual shows how to remove the strut rod, or the control arm, or the sway bar, but it does not go through what happens when you take all of this apart at once. Besides, taking it apart was easy. Getting it back together again was the tough part. The front sway bar bushings were terribly easy. Didn't have to remove any of the panelling under there or anything at all. If you do the front strut bars, I would recommend taking your measurement 'L' from the center of the bolt on the strut side as shown in the manual, but from the plate on the chassis where the bushing sits against the chassis as opposed to on the strut rod, where the tightening nut contacts the bushing as shown in the manual, unless you are using stock bushings. Any other bushing that may be of a different size would really make this measurement useless. Before you take it apart, think about what the measurement is for and it will make sense to you what to measure before you go ahead. If the bushing were to be a bunch larger than the stock bushing, think about what will happen to the length 'L' that you measure, and you will be more likely to measure the right length. As I mentioned in another email, I did not put in the Energy Suspension strut rod bushings in the front, cause to me they looked way way to big and did not really look like they work on the '91 cars. Obviously there's something different here than on the '93's. I expect to do the control arm bushings on the front this weekend, if I get the chance and if it looks like they'll fit. I will attempt to remove the control arm along with the ball joint complete as was done on the back, cause I don't have the SST that Toyota recommends to remove the ball joint. I will let you all know how that goes when I do it. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 18:59:24 -0400 From: Gavin Vess To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Trust Exhaust (How to prevent rusting) Dysart, Glenn B. wrote: > > Actually, there are several grades of stainless steel. But they all rust > eventually. Just not as easily as regular steel. The highway departments > > > Glenn Dysart > dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil > ---------- > > If it's really stainless, you need to do nothing! Good stainless steel > won't > > rust. The page at http://www.benchmade.com/q&a.html#a15 has a good write-up on stainless steel. >From a chemistry course that I took long ago, I recall that Gas stations used a trick to slow the rusting of their underground gas tanks. By attaching a block of magnesium? via a large copper wire to the tank. The magnesium block rusts relatively quickly, while the tank rusts very slowly. The block is used as a supply of electrons to replace otherwise lost during rusting - or something similar to this, its been several years since I heard this lecture. -- Gavin Vess xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Trust Exhaust (How to prevent rusting) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 19:30:47 -0400 From: Tom Julien Gavin Vess writes: >>From a chemistry course that I took long ago, I recall that >Gas stations used a trick to slow the rusting of their underground >gas tanks. By attaching a block of magnesium? via a large copper >wire to the tank. The magnesium block rusts relatively quickly, >while the tank rusts very slowly. The block is used as a supply >of electrons to replace otherwise lost during rusting - or something >similar to this, its been several years since I heard this lecture. The ole "sacrificial anode" technique does work well. /************************************************************* Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com Engineering Unix Support Tel: 407-826-7685 Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL Fax: 407-826-1881 *************************************************************/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 00:48:58 +0100 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: christof@server.net4you.co.at (Chris Orasch) Subject: Repair Manuals for 91MR2 Hi, Thanks to all of you who have responded to my question about the repair manuals for the MR2. Well, I have forgotten to mention an important thing - I don't live in the US I'm from Austria (Europe). I have tried getting them at local Toyota dealers but they don't want to sell them. So, is there someone who can get them for me and ship them to Austria? Of course I'll pay for the handling!! Thanks ---Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Misc. Ailments... To: 103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Lawrence M. Saccone Jr.) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 18:01:58 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I have the same problem too, unfortunately I don't have a solution. Windows always rattle when I have it slightly down, worse when I close the door. Not to mention the door is heavy too, which doesn't alleviate the problem. :-) Richard Leong | Red with one-of-a-kind body-kit '86 Celica GTS | Powerflow and custom exhaust leongc@sfu.ca | Still looking for the perfect suspension upgrade > > (2) My windows rattle. Is there any way > to tighten the track so they don't bounce > around when they are open?? > > Thanks again, > -Larry Saccone Jr. > -91' MR2T > -103617,1033@compuserve.com > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 14:53:11 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Serial No. MR2 all Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I have made an attachment and sent to the FAQ with all the info to 9410 (October 1994 production date). It seems that there was only one run for SW20 covering the US with the Turbo version and the rest of the world without turbo. The European dates and S/N are identical!! For a copy obtain the FAQ please as the file was scanned and is rather large, or e-mail me for a copy directly. Regards, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 15:09:26 +0200 To: "John A. Rose" From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: MkI Aftermarket Stereo Installation & Other Goodies Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com John writes, > >For those who thought that the MkI MR2 was too small for any serious stereo >system...this is what I have done.... > >I had searched and searched for a solution that had the following >characteristics : > >4 6"x9" speakers (stereo for both driver and passenger) >at least 200 watts total power Well I always wanted to get a set of decent speakers in my MR2. My wife had been complaining for a long time now that those POLKs in the living room (9 speakers each 80 x 70 x 170 cm) not only took up space but also looked scary, like gosts dressed in black, so I thought of getting them downstairs to the car.... broke my back to transport them 4 floors down, would NOT fit the elevator, when I realized that they just would NOT fit inside. I thought for a moment, maybe if I attach them on each side...no the doors would not open them...I am stuck now, wife will NOT let me back in with the speakers,...last night I removed the front panel of one and used the box to sleep in....gave me the creeps....looked and felt like a coffin!!! stayed awake all night..... Please HELP............... Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 13:50:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr Subject: Re: mk3 ct-26 upgrade To: nr07919@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, On Wed, 17 Apr 1996 nr07919@goodnet.com wrote: > Does anyone have any experience with the Turbonetics upgrade for the stock > mk3 ct-26 turbo. If so how do you like it? They told me it would spool up > about 800 rpm's later than stock... Thanks I've had two Turbonetics upgraded CT-26s, the Super-S and the Super-H. The Super-S is great for people that aren't interested in making fuel system mods (which is where you start getting into big $$$). If you're happy with 12 psi, which can get you to 320ish hp with turbo and intercooler upgrade, I recommend the Super-S. It spools up incredibly quick and still flows better than stock. However, it does drop off a bit at 12 PSI and 6000 rpm, so if you plan to go higher than 12 PSI I don't recommend it. The Super-H is a very large compressor wheel, and does have more a bit more lag than stock. It's hard for me to say how much, since I went from stock to Super-S to Super-H, which skews my perceptions. 800 rpm slower is probably about right, since I have to get up to about 3800 rpm before the Super-H hits full boost. The Super-S could hit full boost between 2500 and 3000 rpm. The Super-H should be good for 20 PSI, but since I haven't upgraded my fuel system yet I can't get more than 12 PSI. :( So I have to deal with a fair amount of turbo lag, plus I can't really get into the big power numbers. The one advantage I get is that it is more efficient and does have a higher mass flow at 12 PSI than smaller turbos, but still... There is a size between Super-S and Super-H, the Super-V. I recommend that for anyone content with boost levels up to 15 or 16 PSI. I don't doubt that the Super-V can go higher than that but I'm sure it will be significantly more inefficient at higher boost levels than the larger Super-H. The Super-V should be a nice compromise, about the same lag as stock but more efficient and with a lot higher boost potential. I probably should mention that my Super-S turbo self-destructed due to a manufacturing error on Turbonetics' part, which they admitted. The turbo was about 95 days old, 5 days out of the warranty period their rep told me, when it blew. When I called back they stated that they don't give warranties as a matter of policy, so I'm not clear on that, but they did fix the turbo and upgrade to Super-H as compensation for the trouble for free. Anyway, they didn't offer to pay the mechanic's labor cost and I didn't ask since I was paying the mechanic to do a head gasket replacement anyway. For those of you that have been wondering where I've been, I've been pretty darn busy for the last month or so. Still no Supra though or I would have made the time to send a quick note. As of about a week ago I was still waiting for Lance at Toyomoto to receive my new JE pistons. :( Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 14:03:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr Subject: Re: mk3 ct-26 upgrade To: nr07919@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, BTW, I forgot to mention that the Super-S upgrade was dirt cheap. It cost $280 (Turbonetics bill, if you have a mechanic do the pulling and reattaching figure another $100-$200). Aaron xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 11:52:15 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Wheels for MR 2 MK II Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com As I have seen inquires on the wheels that fit an MR2 MK II here is the ones I know. A) Size: 8J x 17 H2 ET 42 or 7,5J 16H2 ET 42 that fit the MR2 MKII are also fitting the following cars with respect to size, mounting holes width and ET except hub hole diameter which may or may NOT fit. (manufacturers provide adapters for proper fit) (You must check the diameter of the center hub as it may not be the same. If the wheels have a larger diameter hub hole an adapter should be used, if the hole is smaller it should be enlarged. Make sure that there is a match as wheels MUST be mounted hub centric. NEVER depend on the mounting screws for proper centering of the wheels. 1) Lexus LS400 SC400 ES250 ES300 2) Camry '92 3) Celsior 4) Soarer 5) Infinity 045 J30 6) Mitsubishi Eclipse 3GT (vers. USA) 7) Chrysler Laser 8) Dodge Stealth 9) Eagle Talon Regards Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:22:32 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: rcsmith@servtech.com (Roger Smith) Subject: Toyota Starlet/Atlantic/4AGE URL FYI, The Barbados Rally Club has a web site up and running, Of particular interest to this group is the driver profile of a Starlet fitted with an Atlantic spec 4AGE. The URL is: http://www.sunbeach.net/clubs/rally/Profiles/roett.html The photo of the 4AGE in the starlet shows a TRD Atlantic header, Note that due to the way how the header "curves" over, the Brake booster on the starlets is either modified or moved inside of the car to make room for the exhaust. Roger Smith internet:rogers@golddisk.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 18:37:56 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Misc. ailments.....windows... HI all. To tighten the window tracks on the MK1, there are two (maybe three) little "feet" which are located along the top of the door underneath the inside door panel. These press the window against the rubber trim and guides and can be adjusted with a simple wrench (10mm). This should resolve your rattling problems in the window. Be sure to test with a llittle trial and error how tight to make them. Note: If you have after-market window tint (film tint), making the 'feet' too tight will tear up your tint. Be careful. ;) Until Next................................Robert Robert A.~~~ P.I. '85 MR2 177K (beat to death) Southern Oregon, USA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:59:49 +0500 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Trust Exhaust (How to prevent rusting) > > The page at http://www.benchmade.com/q&a.html#a15 has a good > write-up on stainless steel. > > >From a chemistry course that I took long ago, I recall that > Gas stations used a trick to slow the rusting of their underground > gas tanks. By attaching a block of magnesium? via a large copper > wire to the tank. The magnesium block rusts relatively quickly, > while the tank rusts very slowly. The block is used as a supply > of electrons to replace otherwise lost during rusting - or something > similar to this, its been several years since I heard this lecture. > > -- > Gavin Vess Sacrifical anodes are proven technology for applications where the parts are immersed in an electrolyte. Typical applications are boats, bridges and underground tanks, etc. They are useless on anything that sits out in air though. So adding a zinc anode to your car won't do much at all unless you park it in the sea at night. The same holds for those electronic gizmos that fight rust, they need an electrolyte too. What does work is covering the entire metal area with zinc. This is why galvanized sheet metal is popular on cars. You can also buy zinc rich paint which is said to work well as a rust preventative, but I would guess it doesn't do anything unless you apply it to bare metal. Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:18:01 EDT Subject: Injector colour code Hi guys, I recently came across a set of fuel injectors which had a white colour code. Does anybody know waht flow rate these would be? ( Matti's site does not list white.) ===================================================== Gregory Chan E-mail: GChan@Compserv.SenecaC.On.Ca 85 Corolla GTS & 73 Datsun 240Z Computer Support Specialist,Seneca College,Ont,Canada Tel: (416)491-5050 Ext 2129 Fax: (416)491-6596 "You break it, I'll fix it." ^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:35:21 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wind deflectors >Sorry, no sunroof on my MK II MR2, but am I glad you mentioned >deflectors and reminded me to ask this question!! When my T-Tops >are out I have been able to find NO BENEFIT from the dual wind >deflectors at speeds up to about 70mph. In fact, when I've held >either one of them down while driving, I've found that wind noise >drops dramatically!! The reason for the wind deflectors is to minimize the amount of "boom" in the car at speed. By breaking up the air with the deflector the low frequency resonance (aka: boom) is reduced. Alot of effort is done to reduce the unwanted frequencies, and it's often at the expense of a more pleasant frequency being enhanced. I suspect if you pull down the deflectors you'll hear a very low base drum noise (like 40 hz or so) that will tire you out tremendously on a long trip. If it doesn't bother you, so be it, and tape the suckers down!! :-) Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 05:44:04 -0700 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Re: MkI Aftermarket Stereo Installation & Other Goodies To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com John You had asked about Aftermarket Stereos in a MKI MR-2... Heres whats in my car and it sound great if you want more details just drop me a line. Thanks John Welch Alpine Tuner CD Alpine 6 disk changer Alpine Equalizer 3 Alpine Amps total 240 watts. 2 6 Kicker Subwoffers 2 5 Alpine Midranges 2 5 Boston Acoustic Midranges 2 3 Boston Acoustic Highs 2 1 Alpine Tweeters 2 3 Aux. Speakers ( Phone and Radar ) Above are connected to a custom 2 watt amp so you can hear them over the stereo Custom Door panels for speakers Just an FYI heres some other stuff in my car... Engine 1.6 Liter 4 cylinder 240 bhp @ 6200 rpm 8000 redline Toyota 4AGZE Block Forged, dished, ceramic coated pistons Cosworth pistons are on order... Carrillo rods Billet steel crank 430 ccpm fuel injectors TRD Adjustable cam gears TRD 2 mm oversize valves Ported and Polished Cylinder head Extrude honed intake and exhaust manifolds Enlarged throttle body Garrett Airesearch T-25 water cooled turbo HKS intercooler J&S Electronics Digital Safeguard Knock sensor Drive Train Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch Limited slip differential Toyota Paseo Transmission Gears Toyota Supra CV joints Red Line Synthetic Fluid Carbon Fiber Brake Pads Cross Drilled Rotors Stainless Steel Brake Lines Suspension Tokico Illumina Adjustable Struts Eibach Springs TRD Bushings Suspension Techniques Anti Sway Bars GAB Strut Tower Braces Yokohama A-022 Tires 225-50ZR15 Interior Autopower Race 4 point roll bar RJS 5 Point harnesses Auto Meter Gauges Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Oil temp. HKS Gauges Exhaust Gas Temp., Boost/Vacuum HKS Electronic Valve Controller HKS Turbo Timer Miscellaneous 4 Gallon secondary JAZ Fuel Cell Holley transfer fuel pump B&M Roll control Line Lock Custom air intake brake cooling ducts Hot Laps Timing unit Sony Video Camera Panasonic S-VHS VCR Bell Helmets with mic and earpiece WC Engineering intercom system Passport Radar detector 2 watt amp for Passport ( so you can hear it over the stereo ) Passport Laser Detector xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 07:11:19 -0700 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: 4-Runner To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I need some help... my '86 4-Runner is running great ( 178,000 miles ) But with this last winter in Chicago the wheel well arches have started rusting out. I can get genuine Toyota front fenders for about $80.00... so theres no reason to pull ot the bondo for those. The rear wheel wells are another story. Does anyone know of a wheel well patch panel that is made for this truck ? I really don't feel like making them myself. Thanks John Welch '86 4-Runner '87 MR-2 Turbo '78 Triumph Spitfire squelch@ix.netcom.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 22 Apr 96 10:25:07 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Dave Abitol , Subject: Mass/Airflow Sensor Mods Once again, I'm at play..... I was speaking to a car tech that's wise beyond his years ;) and he informs me that it is possible to modify the M/A Sensor to trick the computer into sending more fuel. Is this good for the car? Can it be done? Lemme know. -Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Jamie Dennis - Imonics Corporation Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:28:04 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, gfriedmn@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Spring Loaded Wind Deflectors mk2 MR2 T-Top wind deflectors.... I've held my wind deflectors down at ~50 mph, because of the noise that they make (whistling, etc.), and have about had my eardrums ruptured by the pressure. Holding them down at ~50 on my car makes it sound like I am on the inside of a bass drum that is being beaten 4 times a second! The pressure ocilates (sp?) rapidly between hi and lower..... Jamie Dennis '93 MR2 Turbo, license /dev/toy > From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Mon Apr 22 10:23 EDT 1996 > Comments: Authenticated sender is > From: "Gary Friedman" > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 05:34:58 +0000 > Subject: Spring Loaded Wind Deflectors > Reply-to: gfriedmn@ipof.fla.net > Priority: normal > X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (v2.01) > Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com > Content-Type: text > Content-Length: 2054 > > > Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:24:57 -0400 > > From: Mail Delivery Subsystem > > Subject: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours > > To: > > > ********************************************** > > ** THIS IS A WARNING MESSAGE ONLY ** > > ** YOU DO NOT NEED TO RESEND YOUR MESSAGE ** > > ********************************************** > > > > The original message was received at Sun, 21 Apr 1996 13:18:13 -0400 > > from ppp188-91.fla.net [205.228.188.91] > > > > ----- The following addresses had delivery problems ----- > > (transient failure) > > > > ----- Transcript of session follows ----- > > Warning: message still undelivered after 4 hours > > Will keep trying until message is 5 days old > > > > ----- Original message follows ----- > > > > Thanks to those on the list who advised me that my mailer was > screwed up, no comment for pea-brains that wanted to know why I > was doing "this shit." The original message follows, obviously it > didn't make it-- > > Sorry, no sunroof on my MK II MR2, but am I glad you mentioned > deflectors and reminded me to ask this question!! When my T-Tops > are out I have been able to find NO BENEFIT from the dual wind > deflectors at speeds up to about 70mph. In fact, when I've held > either one of them down while driving, I've found that wind noise > drops dramatically!! > > When deflectors= up, they seem to greatly INCREASE wind > NOISE-- especially at normal (aka legal, non-Montana) speeds. This > occurs with the windows up, down, or whatever. > > Do the wind deflectors serve any useful purpose as far as cushioning > shocks, or as a part of the seal, when the T-tops are in? I can't > find a functional purpose for them when the Ts are out unless I am > missing something here. Has anyone removed them for noise reasons > with no ill effects?? Is it time to get out the duct tape?? > > Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!! > MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Jamie Dennis - Imonics Corporation Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:34:50 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 3S-GE in a mk1 MR2? Is is possible to put a 3S-GE (from the Australian mk2 - 178 hp?) in a mk1 MR2? Has anyone tried this? I don't own either (I have a '93 Turbo :-), but this sounds like an awesome combination. If anyone has done this, how dificult was it? Thanks, Jamie Dennis '93 Turbo, license /dev/toy xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:45:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Wes Shew Subject: Re: Wheels for MR 2 MK II To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos" Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, On Sun, 21 Apr 1996, Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: > As I have seen inquires on the wheels that fit an MR2 MK II here is the ones > I know. > > except hub hole diameter which may or may NOT fit. (manufacturers provide > adapters for proper fit) Who/where are these adapters provided the _car_ OR _wheel_ manufacturer? How about aftermarket? Wit regards to your list, which are 16" and 17"? Widths? TIA Yours in motorsport, Wes Shew [macher :-) ] xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:31:21 +0000 From: Mark Lobin To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Question for the Pros HI my name is Mark and I own a 95' Supra SE. I was wondering how hard it would be to make it Turbo. If you could help please email me. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:18:05 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Installing Poly bushings on '91T MR2 (Updated - LONG) To: MR2-Interest List , Cc: tomj@escmail.orl.mmc.com Well, I've finally finished the fronts as well now. So what I figured I'd do is update the description I sent before. Note that I have made some minor changes to the material that I sent already, which has relavence to the rears too. As I was ripping apart a whole bunch of other things on the car this weekend, I didn't have a chance to test it all out. On Thursday I'll be getting an alignment and on Saturday a few of us have a Kart track rented, so that we can do some testing and tuning prior to our first Autoslalom event of the year on Sunday. I'll report my findings following the weekend. The article on bushing installation follows my signature. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged -------------------- I swapped out the stock bushings on my '91 MR2 Turbo with polyurethane bushings by Energy Suspension (thanks to Chris Myer @ Cyberspace Automotive Performance). To replace the sway bar bushings in the rear requires taking nearly the whole rear end apart (with the exception of the struts) or so it seemed. Since I was replacing the strut bar bushings and control arm bushings, most of all this had to be removed anyway. For the most part, removal of everything is per the Toyota shop manuals. Remove the strut bar and control arm completely. I left the sway bar link attached to the strut and only removed it from the sway bar. The rear cross-member needs to be removed as indicated, but you really only need to lower it just enough to get at the 'hidden' bolt attaching the sway bar bushing. I did not remove the exhaust mount point from the rear cross-member and just carefully let the exhaust come down with the rear cross-member held up by a jack. To do this I did disconnect the exhaust tips from their mounting point. Since the whole thing doesn't have to drop all too much, this was fine (note that I do not have a muffler on this car - if you have one, you will likely have to remove the bolt(s) that secure the actual muffler to some bracket). I personally couldn't see how I would have removed the exhaust from the rear cross-member anyway since there's no room to work in there. To remove the stock bushings (which are actually the best 'stock' bushings I've seen) out of the control arm and strut rod took some work. Couldn't just drill them out, since the bushings have some metal inside them to reinforce them. Since the bushing has some rubber material that hangs over the edge of the strut rod or control arm to securely keep it in place, we used a sharp utility knife to cut away this bit of rubber all the way around. Only need to do this on one side, since you will be pushing the bushing out the other side. What we ended up doing then was heating them up real good (ie. used a hand-held propane torch to heat the metal all around the bushing), and then pushing the bushing out with a vice by putting a socket just large enough to fit against the metal sleeve inside the bushing and using a short 2" diameter piece of pipe on the other side, into which the bushing would go as it was pressed out by the socket. (Clarification: the socket has the same diameter as the metal sleeve in the center of the bushing, the 2" diameter pipe lenght is almost the same length as the stock bushing or almost the same length as the metal sleeve, if you like. Note that you want to use the shortest possible socket and keep the pipe just smaller than the total length of the bushing, or the vice won't open far enough to let you put the whole thing in - try it out before heating anything up). The socket goes on the side where you cut the rubber away, since you are pushing the bushing into the pipe piece. The rest of the bushing can easily be pulled out the rest of the way. NOTE THAT ITS GOING TO BE VERY HOT!!! Note that the Energy Suspension bushings are a two piece bushing, so I pre-attached one half of the bushing onto the sleeve, insert it part way into the strut rod or control arm and then slide in the other half from the other side. I found it easiest to carefully squeeze them together in the vice. Be sure to use sufficient amounts of the grease that comes with all of the bushings. The trick to getting it all back together again, was to insert the strut rod into the control arm (with the bushing at that location), but do not put the nut on there yet. Bolt on the control arm first. Then jack up the suspension a bit (jack up under the strut) so that the control arm and strut arm are closer to horizontal so that you can get the bushing onto the strut rod (where it connects to the control arm) and get the nut on there. Then you can reconnect the other end of the strut rod to the chassis. Drop everything back down. Tighten partially. Put on wheels, put car down, bounce it up and down to let everything settle, then lift it back up and tighten everthing per the manual. Try this in any other order and you will have one heck of a time with it... trust me :-) The reason I mention all of this, is that the shop manual shows how to remove the strut rod, or the control arm, or the sway bar, but it does not go through what happens when you take all of this apart at once. Besides, taking it apart was easy. Getting it back together again was the tough part. The front sway bar bushings were terribly easy. Didn't have to remove any of the panelling under there or anything at all. If you do the front strut bars, I would recommend taking your measurement 'L' from the center of the bolt on the strut side as shown in the manual, but from the plate on the chassis where the bushing sits against the chassis as opposed to on the strut rod, where the tightening nut contacts the bushing as shown in the manual, unless you are using stock bushings. Any other bushing that may be of a different size would really make this measurement useless. Before you take it apart, think about what the measurement is for and it will make sense to you what to measure before you go ahead. If the bushing were to be a bunch larger than the stock bushing, think about what will happen to the length 'L' that you measure, and you will be more likely to measure the right length. As I mentioned in another email, I did not put in the Energy Suspension strut rod bushings in the front, cause to me they looked way way to big and did not really look like they work on the '91 cars. Obviously there's something different here than on the '93's. For the front control arm bushings, you can remove the front control arm in the same way you did the rear, without having to actually use an SST tool to separate the control arm from the ball joint per the Toyota shop manuals. There are two bolts that need to be removed to take the control arm off with the whole ball joint. Its a bit tricky to get back together and you may want a second pair of hands to align things up while you try to get the bolts all back in place. I first connected the control arm with the long bolt where your new bushings are. Then just swing it up. Hopefully it'll line up easily with the strut rod (it worked out fine for me on one side) bolts and by squeezing the strut rod and control arm together simply get the nuts started. Then getting the ball joint bracket back in place required for us to carefully jack the strut up a bit and then line it up. The other side was already in the right place and just needed to be bolted on. You may find that you have to get the ball joint bracket in place first and the bolts started for that, before getting the strut rod and control arm together. Lightly tighten all the nuts and bolts (fully tighten the ball joint bracket). Put on the wheels, set the car down, bounce it up and down a bit to let things settle, then pick it up again and torque everything per the manual. After all is done, GET AN ALIGNMENT. Lance. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:18:05 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Installing Poly bushings on '91T MR2 (Updated - LONG) To: MR2-Interest List , Cc: tomj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Well, I've finally finished the fronts as well now. So what I figured I'd do is update the description I sent before. Note that I have made some minor changes to the material that I sent already, which has relavence to the rears too. As I was ripping apart a whole bunch of other things on the car this weekend, I didn't have a chance to test it all out. On Thursday I'll be getting an alignment and on Saturday a few of us have a Kart track rented, so that we can do some testing and tuning prior to our first Autoslalom event of the year on Sunday. I'll report my findings following the weekend. The article on bushing installation follows my signature. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged -------------------- I swapped out the stock bushings on my '91 MR2 Turbo with polyurethane bushings by Energy Suspension (thanks to Chris Myer @ Cyberspace Automotive Performance). To replace the sway bar bushings in the rear requires taking nearly the whole rear end apart (with the exception of the struts) or so it seemed. Since I was replacing the strut bar bushings and control arm bushings, most of all this had to be removed anyway. For the most part, removal of everything is per the Toyota shop manuals. Remove the strut bar and control arm completely. I left the sway bar link attached to the strut and only removed it from the sway bar. The rear cross-member needs to be removed as indicated, but you really only need to lower it just enough to get at the 'hidden' bolt attaching the sway bar bushing. I did not remove the exhaust mount point from the rear cross-member and just carefully let the exhaust come down with the rear cross-member held up by a jack. To do this I did disconnect the exhaust tips from their mounting point. Since the whole thing doesn't have to drop all too much, this was fine (note that I do not have a muffler on this car - if you have one, you will likely have to remove the bolt(s) that secure the actual muffler to some bracket). I personally couldn't see how I would have removed the exhaust from the rear cross-member anyway since there's no room to work in there. To remove the stock bushings (which are actually the best 'stock' bushings I've seen) out of the control arm and strut rod took some work. Couldn't just drill them out, since the bushings have some metal inside them to reinforce them. Since the bushing has some rubber material that hangs over the edge of the strut rod or control arm to securely keep it in place, we used a sharp utility knife to cut away this bit of rubber all the way around. Only need to do this on one side, since you will be pushing the bushing out the other side. What we ended up doing then was heating them up real good (ie. used a hand-held propane torch to heat the metal all around the bushing), and then pushing the bushing out with a vice by putting a socket just large enough to fit against the metal sleeve inside the bushing and using a short 2" diameter piece of pipe on the other side, into which the bushing would go as it was pressed out by the socket. (Clarification: the socket has the same diameter as the metal sleeve in the center of the bushing, the 2" diameter pipe lenght is almost the same length as the stock bushing or almost the same length as the metal sleeve, if you like. Note that you want to use the shortest possible socket and keep the pipe just smaller than the total length of the bushing, or the vice won't open far enough to let you put the whole thing in - try it out before heating anything up). The socket goes on the side where you cut the rubber away, since you are pushing the bushing into the pipe piece. The rest of the bushing can easily be pulled out the rest of the way. NOTE THAT ITS GOING TO BE VERY HOT!!! Note that the Energy Suspension bushings are a two piece bushing, so I pre-attached one half of the bushing onto the sleeve, insert it part way into the strut rod or control arm and then slide in the other half from the other side. I found it easiest to carefully squeeze them together in the vice. Be sure to use sufficient amounts of the grease that comes with all of the bushings. The trick to getting it all back together again, was to insert the strut rod into the control arm (with the bushing at that location), but do not put the nut on there yet. Bolt on the control arm first. Then jack up the suspension a bit (jack up under the strut) so that the control arm and strut arm are closer to horizontal so that you can get the bushing onto the strut rod (where it connects to the control arm) and get the nut on there. Then you can reconnect the other end of the strut rod to the chassis. Drop everything back down. Tighten partially. Put on wheels, put car down, bounce it up and down to let everything settle, then lift it back up and tighten everthing per the manual. Try this in any other order and you will have one heck of a time with it... trust me :-) The reason I mention all of this, is that the shop manual shows how to remove the strut rod, or the control arm, or the sway bar, but it does not go through what happens when you take all of this apart at once. Besides, taking it apart was easy. Getting it back together again was the tough part. The front sway bar bushings were terribly easy. Didn't have to remove any of the panelling under there or anything at all. If you do the front strut bars, I would recommend taking your measurement 'L' from the center of the bolt on the strut side as shown in the manual, but from the plate on the chassis where the bushing sits against the chassis as opposed to on the strut rod, where the tightening nut contacts the bushing as shown in the manual, unless you are using stock bushings. Any other bushing that may be of a different size would really make this measurement useless. Before you take it apart, think about what the measurement is for and it will make sense to you what to measure before you go ahead. If the bushing were to be a bunch larger than the stock bushing, think about what will happen to the length 'L' that you measure, and you will be more likely to measure the right length. As I mentioned in another email, I did not put in the Energy Suspension strut rod bushings in the front, cause to me they looked way way to big and did not really look like they work on the '91 cars. Obviously there's something different here than on the '93's. For the front control arm bushings, you can remove the front control arm in the same way you did the rear, without having to actually use an SST tool to separate the control arm from the ball joint per the Toyota shop manuals. There are two bolts that need to be removed to take the control arm off with the whole ball joint. Its a bit tricky to get back together and you may want a second pair of hands to align things up while you try to get the bolts all back in place. I first connected the control arm with the long bolt where your new bushings are. Then just swing it up. Hopefully it'll line up easily with the strut rod (it worked out fine for me on one side) bolts and by squeezing the strut rod and control arm together simply get the nuts started. Then getting the ball joint bracket back in place required for us to carefully jack the strut up a bit and then line it up. The other side was already in the right place and just needed to be bolted on. You may find that you have to get the ball joint bracket in place first and the bolts started for that, before getting the strut rod and control arm together. Lightly tighten all the nuts and bolts (fully tighten the ball joint bracket). Put on the wheels, set the car down, bounce it up and down a bit to let things settle, then pick it up again and torque everything per the manual. After all is done, GET AN ALIGNMENT. Lance. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 21:24:01 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: Toyota Mods Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Do you dump your heat? (for turbo timer owners) I recently started doing something, only twice so far, and wanted to know what others thought of it. I know sometimes racers will turn on their heat, and blow it into the car/cockpit to remove the heat from the engine. It's amazine how hot the engine cover on my '93 MR2 Turbo is after sitting for 30 or longer minutes.. Still too hot to keep your hand on the cover (outside of the car). It would burn you! I've got a turbo timer, and before I get out of the car, I turn on the heat, and the fan on high, and "dump the heat" into the car. I'm sure this won't harm the interior, but does it cool the engine/turbo down any better? Just wondering. Mark xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: RBC199@aol.com Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 21:33:19 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Big Bore Throttle Body Well...I got it, installed it, and did a little thrashing of the car to test it. It is an RC Engineering mod, FWIW. The car has a Select Sales 7" filter, a straightened intake, a JetHot TRD Header, Jacobs ignition, no cat and a straight through glasspack exhaust as the benchmark. It took about an hour to do the job since I had to swap the aux air valve and the dashpot. I fired it up, let it warm up, adjusted the idle, and went for a ride. I perceived no loss of power in the off-idle to 4000 rpm, but there's a little better throttle response as the revs approach the TVIS mark. At 4500 and up, there's a perceptable increase in power when the TVIS kicks in over the stock TB, and the throttle is *much* more responsive. On the Seat of Your Pants Meter the mod registers well. Next step is a few teeth on the AFM (and the cams, ported head and the port matched intake manifold). Other things to keep in mind - my stock TB was pretty filthy AND had 115K on it. So it's not truly an apples to apples comparison. I do recommend that you spend the $1.50 for the gasket and remove and clean your TB. Bruce..................RBC199@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 20:47:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: Toyota Mods Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Do you dump your heat? (for turbo timer owners) On Mon, 22 Apr 1996, Mark Sink wrote: > I recently started doing something, only twice so far, and wanted to > know what others thought of it. I know sometimes racers will turn on > their heat, and blow it into the car/cockpit to remove the heat from the > engine. It's amazine how hot the engine cover on my '93 MR2 Turbo is > after sitting for 30 or longer minutes.. Still too hot to keep your hand > on the cover (outside of the car). It would burn you! > Yeah...I remember watching one of the Pike's Peak hillclimbs, and one of the drivers (3000GT I think) had his heater on the whole time up. He was sweating like a pig! The only time I've had to do this trick was when the cooling system was busted. > I've got a turbo timer, and before I get out of the car, I turn on the > heat, and the fan on high, and "dump the heat" into the car. I'm sure > this won't harm the interior, but does it cool the engine/turbo down any > better? Just wondering. I'm sure it will give you a couple extra degrees of protection. If you've had a _really_ hard run, by all means do it for peace of mind! I have done this several times after sustained runs under boost, i.e. lots of high-speed passing in the mountains, repeated 1/4 mile trials. It's even better if you pop the hood for a while. Since I haven't gotten around to installing a timer or a blow-off valve yet, I tend to take these precautions more and more often. This is on a V*lvo 850 Turbo BTW...the "family" car. Still saving up for an MR2 Mk II Turbo...woops they cancelled it..=( It's also good peace of mind to know that there's Mobil-1 synthetic oil flowing thru that turbo. (You _do_ use synthetic, right? =) What would really be nice is a secondary coolant pump, which is OEM on turbo Audi/Porsche engines AFAIK. After shutdown it circulates coolant through the turbo up to 15 minutes. That and an pre/after-oiler should pamper your bearings pretty good. -Jayson ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / || Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / / || ||/// / / / / / / / || jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / / ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 21:10:38 -0700 Subject: Tweaking the MAF Sensor (Pay attention Lawrence S. :-) To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, All of this talk about fiddling with the Mass Air Flow Sensor has gotten the better of me. I decided to take a peak inside the sensor on my 91 MR2 Turbo and see what could be done. To spare the impatient some further reading, adjusting it had positive results. I would estimate by seat of the pants observations that I'm getting a bit more power, and that the threshold for detonation has been reduced (at over 15 psi). I wouldn't recommend messing with it if you are confused by changing your spark plugs, but it is a simple thing to adjust. The MAFS in the MKII MR2 has a very small range of adjustability. Adjusting it too far one way or the other could easily make the contact follower go off of the contact pad at either end of the sensor range of motion, possibly damaging the contact follower. It can however be adjusted with positive results. Unfortunately there is no precise way of doing this. Underneath the black plastic cap that is sealed with silicone onto the top of the MAFS is the heart of the sensor. The cap just pops out with the sealant removed. There is a cam attached to the top of the shaft from the air flow vane. The contact follower drops off of this cam onto the contact pad. I would recommend that if you do venture to peak underneath the cap, you should start the engine and move the sensor around with your finger to see just how little movement it takes alter the fuel flow. It is very sensitive. If you're daring enough to attempt adjusting it, turn the engine off and don't mess with the horizontally oriented bolt. The vertical hex head bolt is the one that locks the cam to the shaft. Once the hex bolt is loose, the cam will move freely and will shift from the original setting. Be sure to precisely mark the original position if you ever want any hope of returning it to exactly where it was. Once you've adjusted the cam to where you want it and have tightened the locking bolt, be sure to check the range of movement for the sensor. If the contact follower goes off the contact pad at either end, you've probably shifted it too far. I'm not going to say that adjusting the MAFS will improve performance on your car. These things are set by humans who may not give a rippity-doo-da whether your getting 200 hp or 205 hp, but if you're still reading this, it's probably worth playing with. My MR2 was producing a slight ping on high boost, but adjusting the sensor seems to have curbed this. I was getting a slight pinging when running 92 octane at more than 15 psi. After adjusting the MAFS, I was able to run over 20 psi with barely a hint of pinging. I suspect that adjusting the MAFS will impose a slight hit on fuel economy and adversely effect emissions, but I don't live in California, and I doubt the difference in fuel economy will even be noticeable. *** Speculation Follows *** I think that making the air-fuel mixture on the MR2 MKII more fuel rich, increases power and reduces the wear on ignition parts by requiring less ignition retard in order to combat detonation. Less retard means less arcing within the distributor cap, and therefore less oxidation and corrosion of the distributor contacts. I suspect that Toyota had to compromise some performance in the MKII MR2 Turbo in order to meet emissions requirements. The discontinuation of the MR2 in California one year prior to national discontinuation shows that little room was left for further compromise. FWIW. :-) Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:57:11 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: mr2 list Cc: Toyota Mods Subject: '93 MR2 Turbo and soot (rich mixture) Someone was talking about the black soot left on their walls, or garage door from their MR2 Turbo. Mine does this also, infact.. it's WET. Anyone installed a air:fuel ratio meter to see just what the ratio of these cars is? Anyone leaned the mixture any. I'd think power and fuel mileage would both go up. Mark xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: EXPORTER@delphi.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:45:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: me/mine/mods To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Car : 1976 Toyota Celica ST Coupe Motor : 20-R (single over head cam) 4 cyl. with many internal machined modifications Bore : 3.642 (.60 over ) Stroke : 3.5 inch 145.84 c.i. (2390 c.c.) Carbs : (2) - 44mm Mikuni -Fule pump solid state 4 lbs Cam : 303 in. 307 Ex., overlap 56 deg., Max. lift Intake 0.418 in., Exhaust 0.407in. Rockers: light alloy (3.oz.) ea. with low drag spacers Connecting Rods : stock shot peened Pistons 10.5 to 1 (domed) piston dia. 92.5 mm (3.641 in.) Valves : T. R. D. 1mm over size racing with double springs Ignition : Mallory Points Distributor (for trigger only) Mallory Super coil MSD with Adjustable cockpit timing Custom made triple core radiator Electric cooling fan Exhaust : Header 4 into 1 with short pipe and supper trap Drive train : Stock 5 speed gear box with solid trans mount 1st. 3.287 2nd 2.043 3rd. 1.397 4th 1.000 5th 0.853 Clutch : Center force (dual friction) Flywheel : HKS Light weight 12lb. (Ductile steel) Rear (final Drive) 4.30 : 1 Limited slip TRD Rear suspension type : 4 link ( trussed ) with pan hard rod, all polyurethane bushings Rear shocks : T.R. D. 8 way adjustable (oil filled) Front : T.R.D. :strut cartridge Gas (racing) -Pace setter Rear sway bar with polyurethane bushings -Addco Front sway bar with polyurethane bushings -Adjustable front control arm camber kit with polyurethane bushings Rear tire sizes : B.F. Goodrich T/A Comp 225 / 60R-14 (street) 24.7 Diameter width 7.0 Hoosier Auto-X (Racing Tires 225-50-14) 22.9 Diameter 7.5 width This car is featured in the August 1994 issue of SPORTS COMPACT CAR MAGAZINE in color on page 76 . This car is driven on the street has drag raced, and now auto-x in E prepared class And if you think this is nice. you should see my 77 Celica hatch back with plenty of zoom. Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto (exporter@delphi.com) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: baram@starflt.bellcore.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 15:46:57 +0500 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Got to leave for a while Guys, I will be off the air for a while cause I am changing jobs. Lata, BARAM MAD MODDER SOON COME BAK... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 09:04:17 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Mods installed!! Hey folks! As some of you know, I've been stockpiling performance goodies in my basement all winter, just waiting for the chance to put them in. Well, I finally did! I installed a new HKS clutch plate, stock disk, and HKS light flywheel, TRD header, HKS exhaust, Magnecor wires, and Susp Tech bars. I currently have the 5" Powermax filter with straight intake, so I figure aside from pulling the catalytic I've done about everything I can to improve the plumbing. I did this all at once, so it's impossible for me to say what helped the most, but I will say that my car is considerably more responsive! I still need to get the car aligned (new rack bushings installed also) so I haven't had a chance to check the handling or drive it much. I'll get that done this week and square off against Chris Berchin's MR2. We raced before I did the mods as a baseline, so when we go at it again I'll be able to see side-by-side what the changed did for me. The car comes off the revs so fast now (light flywheel) it's great! :-D I still don't have my idle up circuit installed for the A/C due to the filter, and now the car will stall if I turn on the A/C at idle... the flywheel made a differece there. Best fix that! :-) Otherwise it idles fine. For those that were wondering, my stereo is fine with the Magnecor wires. No electrical feedback, they fit well, and look great! I installed these after I drove the car once and I do believe they helped (I have no idea how old the other wires were, however). .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 23 Apr 96 10:52:25 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: Mazda RX-7 R1 Wheels And MR2 Does anyone know if the new RX-7 wheels with 245-50r16 rear 225-50r16 front will fit on my 91T? Thanks Larry xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 12:53:02 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 2T high compression head I was doing a little back-post reading and was wondering if anyone out there (Koji?) could tell me how to mount a 2T high comp head on my 80 3T-C block, and all of the little tricks that I would need to know... From what I gather, the head from the pre 1974 2T-C engine was a high comp; I would like to know how to positively identify this item and what extras are needed for it to fit on the top of the 3T block? Anything to watch out for? (piston strength is adequate, I gather, and the pushrods from the 3T will work, right?) Are there any other 2T parts other than the head to look for? ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu 80 Corolla SR-5 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 12:31:17 -0700 Subject: Re: '93 MR2 Turbo and soot (rich mixture) To: Mark Sink Cc: Toyota Mods On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, Mark Sink wrote: >Someone was talking about the black soot left on their walls, or garage >door from their MR2 Turbo. Mine does this also, infact.. it's WET. >Anyone installed a air:fuel ratio meter to see just what the ratio of >these cars is? Anyone leaned the mixture any. I'd think power and fuel >mileage would both go up. If you've seen my post on the MAF sensor adjustment, it makes sense that your car could be running a little rich. Mine was apparently running a bit lean. The adjustment for the MAFS is far from precisely adjustable, but the slightest shift in setting will make a difference. I'm not saying that you need to be voiding your warranty by opening up the sensor, but it could be the cause of a rich mixture. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:18:47 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Mods installed!! Dave, just wondering how light your HKS flywheel is. Cheers ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00) wrote: > > Hey folks! > > As some of you know, I've been stockpiling performance goodies in my basement > all winter, just waiting for the chance to put them in. Well, I finally did! > I installed a new HKS clutch plate, stock disk, and HKS light flywheel, TRD > header, HKS exhaust, Magnecor wires, and Susp Tech bars. I currently have the > 5" Powermax filter with straight intake, so I figure aside from pulling the > catalytic I've done about everything I can to improve the plumbing. > > I did this all at once, so it's impossible for me to say what helped the most, > but I will say that my car is considerably more responsive! I still need to > get the car aligned (new rack bushings installed also) so I haven't had a > chance to check the handling or drive it much. I'll get that done this week > and square off against Chris Berchin's MR2. We raced before I did the mods > as a baseline, so when we go at it again I'll be able to see side-by-side > what the changed did for me. > > The car comes off the revs so fast now (light flywheel) it's great! :-D > I still don't have my idle up circuit installed for the A/C due to the filter, > and now the car will stall if I turn on the A/C at idle... the flywheel made > a differece there. Best fix that! :-) Otherwise it idles fine. > > For those that were wondering, my stereo is fine with the Magnecor wires. No > electrical feedback, they fit well, and look great! I installed these after > I drove the car once and I do believe they helped (I have no idea how old the > other wires were, however). > > .............. > Dave A. > 1986 MR2 > daucott@e-mail.com > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 23 Apr 96 22:38:49 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: To you Racers Hi, Since I am not a very experienced racer, I was wondering what is the best way to take off from the line? I'm tired of racing a 2nd generation normally aspirated Supra and just barely beating him. How far do you rev the engine before you let the clutch go? May be part of my problem is also that I need a new clutch. Curious, Alex Yellow 91 MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 11:28:35 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Which Exhaust? I am about to replace my stock exhaust on my 91T MR2 and I'm have trouble making up my mind on which one is best (for me). I know that this is subject has been well covered in the past, but I would like to know some pros/cons of the ones that y'all have experience with. Since I'm new to MR2 mods, any help you could give would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very large, William Hall wh_hall@msn.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 24 Apr 96 07:51:50 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Dave Abitol , Subject: MAFS ----- The Sequel! Well here I go thinking again (I know... trouble) But... It looks to me like the circuit board in the MAFS that the wires all connect to uses carbon resistors as a sort of voltage restrictor to control the signal to the fuel computer. If that is in fact so... It looks af if the carbon resistors are in series. If this were true... in theory, one could wire another resistor in paralell to the overall circuit and reduce the overall resistance. This could in effect actually change the entire range without physically adjusting the cam in the sensor. Any thoughts?? -Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 24 Apr 96 07:52:03 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Subject: RE: To You Racers Alex, It all depends how bad you want to win ;) I dump the clutch at about 3750rpm - 4250rpm On the street I found that with the stock tires from our year car (205 60R14) it works. On the track however, I'm seeing the value of slicks. If you do in fact need a new clutch, I replaced mine (and I drive hard) at about 60k miles. You can test it by having the emergency brake on and trying to start the car from third gear. If your clutch is still good, the car should stall immediately. If you need a new one, you will be able to feather the clutch and get rolling. Hope you don't need a new clutch! (Toyota MSRP including labor --->> $999!!!!!!! I made the mistake of putting another Toyota clutch in to replace the old one. for about $100 more on the part side, you can get a good dual friction/centerforce clutch. If you take it to a transmission/clutch specialist, you can save about that much on the labor. Same price, better performance. Good Luck! -Larry S -91' T xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: MKI: Are normal 4" front speakers OK? To: validgh!uunet!MAINE.maine.edu!IO20017@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 16:07:04 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > I want to upgrade my stock dash speakers with a component speaker > system with 4" midranges and surface mount tweeters. However, it > looks like several aftermarket speakers are meant just for Toyota > mounting style (only 2 ears)...but none of these style come with > seperate tweeters. So, is it possible to modify regular (4 screws) 4" > speakers to fit the dash opening by trimming the extra 2 mounts off? > Has anyone found a good place to mount a set of surface mount tweeters? > Thanks in advance for any help... > -Mike, '86 NA > > PS. How does Denon compare to other high end brands like Kenwood in > terms of sound quality and reliability? Are their CD changers any > good at resisting skipping (...I'm learning why sports cars are > called "kidney busters"! =) > Mike, Yes, it is possible to remove the extra two tabs. Just use some tin snips and cut them right off. I did this with the MB Quart 200 KN-S 4" coaxials. I also considered putting in 4" mids and separate tweeters in the doors, but, (1) I found no area for mounting depth behind the upper forward vinyl area of the door panels (two sheets of thick metal), and (2) Audio Coupe in Fairfield, CT who designed my system and the NSX system in Car Stereo Review, said that the dash location of the MR2 is perfect for tweeters and mids. In fact they even cut holes in this location of the expensive dash of the NSX to mount tweeters there. They also did this in a Ferrari 308. I installed my entire system myself, if you would like the write-up I did on it, I can email it to you. It may give you some ideas. Denon is pretty good, from my experience, however, I do not recommend Kenwood as I have heard of too many problems with them. I use five brands in my sound system which I am very happy with: Yamaha, Sony, a/d/s/, MB Quart, and Infinity. I use a Sony CD changer mounted upright behind the driver's seat, and even with the Tokico shocks on their stiffest setting, the changer does not skip at all. As for Denon, I've only used their 3 1/2" coaxials. One word of advice on building a high end system from experience: Take your time, design the system with the best components from the start, and buy each piece one at a time if you cannot afford to buy the entire system at once. I started with Audiovox and Jensen, and was constantly upgrading components to get to what I have installed now. The truth is, the high end system I have now (with every component upgraded almost to its fullest, mind you) actually costs less than some of the systems I've had in the past which did not sound as good. Hope this helps :) Aly '85 MR2, Red with all options xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:45:21 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) Subject: Big Bore Throttle Body >Well...I got it, installed it, and did a little thrashing of the car to test >it. It is an RC Engineering mod, FWIW. The car has a Select Sales 7" filter, >a straightened intake, a JetHot TRD Header, Jacobs ignition, no cat and a >straight through glasspack exhaust as the benchmark. It took about an hour to >do the job since I had to swap the aux air valve and the dashpot. >I perceived no loss of power in the off-idle to 4000 rpm, but there's a >little better throttle response as the revs approach the TVIS mark. At 4500 >and up, there's a perceptable increase in power when the TVIS kicks in over >the stock TB, and the throttle is *much* more responsive. On the Seat of >Your Pants Meter the mod registers well. Next step is a few teeth on the AFM >(and the cams, ported head and the port matched intake manifold). > >Other things to keep in mind - my stock TB was pretty filthy AND had 115K on >it. So it's not truly an apples to apples comparison. I do recommend that you >spend the $1.50 for the gasket and remove and clean your TB. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Damn! Am I stupid. What is a: FWIW TRD TB TVIS AFM Is this a test?? Dick Byrd byrd@mnsinc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: EXPORTER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:56:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: Mods Reply To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Car : 1976 Toyota Celica ST Coupe Motor : 20-R (single over head cam) 4 cyl. with many internal machined modifications Bore : 3.642 (.60 over ) Stroke : 3.5 inch 145.84 c.i. (2390 c.c.) Carbs : (2) - 44mm Mikuni -Fule pump solid state 4 lbs Cam : 303 in. 307 Ex., overlap 56 deg., Max. lift Intake 0.418 in., Exhaust 0.407in. Rockers: light alloy (3.oz.) ea. with low drag spacers Connecting Rods : stock shot peened Pistons 10.5 to 1 (domed) piston dia. 92.5 mm (3.641 in.) Valves : T. R. D. 1mm over size racing with double springs Ignition : Mallory Points Distributor (for trigger only) Mallory Super coil MSD with Adjustable cockpit timing Custom made triple core radiator Electric cooling fan Exhaust : Header 4 into 1 with short pipe and supper trap Drive train : Stock 5 speed gear box with solid trans mount 1st. 3.287 2nd 2.043 3rd. 1.397 4th 1.000 5th 0.853 Clutch : Center force (dual friction) Flywheel : HKS Light weight 12 lbs. (Ductile steel) Rear (final Drive) 4.30 : 1 Limited slip TRD Rear suspension type : 4 link ( trussed ) with pan hard rod, all polyurethane bushings Rear shocks : T.R. D. 8 way adjustable (oil filled) Front : T.R.D. :strut cartridge Gas (racing) -Pace setter Rear sway bar with polyurethane bushings -Addco Front sway bar with polyurethane bushings -Adjustable front control arm camber kit with polyurethane bushings Rear tire sizes : B.F. Goodrich T/A Comp 225 / 60R-14 (street) 24.7 Diameter width 7.0 Hoosier Auto-X (Racing Tires 225-50-14) 22.9 Diameter 7.5 width This car is featured in the August 1994 issue of SPORTS COMPACT CAR MAGAZINE in color on page 76 . This car is driven on the street has drag raced, and now auto-x in E prepared class And if you think this is nice. you should see my 77 Celica hatch back with plenty of zoom. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Somebody asked me... >what brand of pistons and header did you use? Do you still >recommend them? So are you going to tell me about >the hatch back? Well in the 76 coupe I used T.R.D. Pistons, but as we know lots of these parts are discontinued you have to find out if they still have them. In the 77 Celica hatch back the previous owner had pistons made by T.R.W he claimed they where stronger pistons than the T.R.D. brand he claimed he blew a hole in. (May be he did not know when to say when to the motor but I never had problems with the T.R.D. ones and there race tested tough by me) Both are 10 : 1 pistons domed and valve relieve notched. I don't know which ones are lighter. The 76 was my first car I am the second owner since 1978 when I purchased it. I am now 34 years old and this car has gone through many changes, many races (won some) and many places. I have had many old Toyotas of the late 70's and early 80's (Corollas and Celicas) and am one of the first modifiers of these cars that I know. I would like to share my experience, knowledge, sources and love for these cars. Peace, Drive carefully, BUT SWIFTLY !!! Rick Dormoi / T & R AUTO (exporter@delphi.com) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 25 Apr 96 01:36:38 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Silhouette tail light covers How do Silhouette tail light covers attach? Alex Yellow 91 MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 25 Apr 96 01:36:40 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Horsepower What's the relation/equation between horsepower at the engine and at the wheel? Yellow 91 MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:42:17 -0700 Subject: Re: MKII Turbo Cap & Rotor Replacement under high boost To: jdshort@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, John Short writes: >So now that I run a little higher boost to make up for whats lost in >altitude, my distributor caps don't last very long. How long are you other >people messing with boost getting out of yours? Is there some high >performance solution rather than just buying new ones? I think my last one >started missing after only a couple weeks and one track day. I try to limit running higher boost without mixing in an octane booster. 104+ seems to work fairly well, but at $8 per bottle it is a bit spendy. I've tried Turbo 108, but even with a full 32 oz can in the tank ($4/bottle), it still seemed to knock slightly. STP Octane Boost seems to be a similar waste of money. Anybody else have a favorite octane booster aside from just removing the cats and running a race fuel blend? Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary Hong To: 75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, TOYOTA-MODS@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Horsepower Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 0:26:18 PDT >What's the relation/equation between horsepower at the engine and at the wheel? About 25%-30% depending on car. I would use that as an est. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 02:14:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Wes Shew Subject: Re: MKII Turbo Cap & Rotor Replacement under high boost To: kca@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: jdshort@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, On Wed, 24 Apr 1996 kca@interserv.com wrote: > 104+ seems to work fairly well, but at $8 per bottle it is a bit spendy. I've > tried Turbo 108, but even with a full 32 oz can in the tank ($4/bottle), it > still seemed to knock slightly. STP Octane Boost seems to be a similar waste of > money. > > Anybody else have a favorite octane booster aside from just removing the cats > and running a race fuel blend? A large can of 104+ "Super" is $43 for 1 gallon (128 oz.)from Summit at (216)630-0200 w/ free shipping. Super boosts octane rating 2 points higher than their regular 104+. This works out to about $4.03 per 12 oz. can. Yours in motorsport, Wes Shew [macher :-) ] xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 25 Apr 96 08:32:43 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol Cc: "Steve B." , Subject: Check Engine Light I was wondering if anyone out there might be able to offer some insight as to why my check engine light might come on. I was at the track last night, and on my fourth (of five) runs near the end (about 4500 rpm in third) and the light came on. I guess I was running about 18psi at this point, but I didn't hear any pinging or any strange noises at all. The light just came on! I let the car cool down (like I had a choice... there were about 1000 cars in line) and then started her back up. By the way, I checked for leaks or oil low or the dreaded white smoke. The light went out. Then when I did my burnout for the last run of the night, it came on again. This time it stayed on. I ran a pretty bad time, but the MPH was there (99.243), so the engine was still making the power. Again, I let the car cool down. I find now, that when I start the car, the light is out. As soon as the engine revs past 2000rpm, the light comes back on. Again, the car is running fine. I drove all the way home from New Jersey to Long Island after this. (About 70miles) The car started fine this morning, and the light was still on. Any suggestions? Thanx! Larry S. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 25 Apr 96 09:43:48 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Subject: RE: 95 Supre SE to Turbo Convert Mark, In order to turn any non-turbo vehicle into a turbo vehicle, you are talking about extensive work. I don't know the actual compression ratio of your engine, but on turbocharged apps, you should be at about 8.0:1. I think your car is a bit above that. Also you'll need to make room ;) I've seen under the hood of the Supra SE..... pretty crowded! Good luck, hope you have lots of cash $$$$ Larry S (Through cash.... all things are possible!) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 10:15:20 PDT From: geoff@softy.softwords.bc.ca (Geoff Seeley) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Silhouette tail light covers Alex Pun <75104.2070@CompuServe.COM> wrote: > How do Silhouette tail light covers attach? All that is included in the kit is some double-faced tape. I didn't like this so I drilled a few holes in some well picked places and added some screws... BTW, you should post these MR2 specific questions to the MR2 mailing list... Geoff '91 MR2t, 171,000km http://mr2.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Scott, Dan" To: ToyMods Subject: RE:Check Engine Light Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 11:36:00 PDT Hi Larry: If you don't want to do the diagnostic thing (ground the check terminal on the ECU and count blinks) you may want to check your intercooler coolant level. On my Celica turbo a similar thing happened and all I had to do was top up the coolant. I am assuming that you don't have an air to air intercooler. It would also help if I knew a bit more about the car. Good luck. Dan Scott Dscott@ea.com '88 Celica 4WD turbo ~91k miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 11:52:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Jimmy Hu To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> Cc: Owner Subject: RE: 95 Supre SE to Turbo Convert On 25 Apr 1996, Lawrence M. Saccone Jr. wrote: > Mark, > In order to turn any non-turbo vehicle into a turbo vehicle, > you are talking about extensive work. I don't know the actual > compression ratio of your engine, but on turbocharged apps, > you should be at about 8.0:1. I think your car is a bit above that. > Also you'll need to make room ;) I've seen under the hood of > the Supra SE..... pretty crowded! > Good luck, hope you have lots of cash $$$$ > Larry S > (Through cash.... all things are possible!) > I saw Toyomoto's Ad, and I think it's about $5500 for the stage one NA to TT conversion. Not bad. But I heard the SE is missing some stuff that the regular NA have (So that's why the price is a lot cheaper than the regular NA too). Not quite sure about it. Jimmy 94 JZA80TT xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 16:41:01 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Transmission *** Resending note of 04/25/96 16:18 Hi again. After going out last night and having an absolute blast with my new clutch, header, etc., I stopped to open the garage door and my transmission was making noises!! "OH NO!" It sounds like a "tuck-a-tuck-a-tuck-a..." and only does it when in neutral and the clutch engaged. The sound varies in loundess depending on which gear the car was in last. The trans shifts smoothly and otherwise seems fine. I figure the bearings are going... true? I'm gonna check the fluid and see if it's low, but I'm not holding out much hope. If anyone has experience in what this might be, please let me know. Also, how tough is it to rebuild these trannys? Dave A. 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 18:22:03 -0400 To: 103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, dabitol@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Check Engine Light I've had the same similar problem. My C.E. light comes on at random as well. It's usually during warmer weather at 60+ mph. Anyone got any answers? Tanx. Robert A.~~ P.I. '85 MR2 178,000 and going.... S. Oregon, USA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: RamziM2@aol.com Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 22:06:24 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 86 MR2 rims for sale Stock 86 MR2 rims for sale. I live in the Los Angeles area. The rims are in very good condition. I have Yokohama A-509 tires with about 5000 miles left on one pair and about 2500 left on the second pair. Price for tires and rims $190. let me know soon if anyone is interested. Ramzi xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 25 Apr 96 23:28:44 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Headers vs. Extrude-Hone Is it better to get headers or to Extrude-Hone the OEM exhaust manifold? How much does it cost? Alex Yellow 91 MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 01:39:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: neato tech terms--> where'z the FAQ? On Wed, 24 Apr 1996, Dick Byrd wrote: > Damn! Am I stupid. Naahh of course not. All these acronyms take some getting used to and you'll find that tech-y types, not unlike our TM (Toyota Mods) group here, love to flip around terms like this. Geez I mean I'm always learning new stuff here... > What is a > FWIW For What It's Worth > TRD Toyota Racing Development > TB Throttle Body > TVIS Toyota Variable Induction System > AFM Air Flow Meter > > Is this a test?? No, but after typing this it kinda feels like I just took a TM pop quiz! (Errmm, how did I do everyone??) Seriously though, every little type-saving acronym helps especially in a heavy-typing environment like the net. Plus you can saunter into your local dealer/speed shop and say "Yeah well I mod'd the TB to the TVIS but my AFM was DOA from TRD" and confuse/impress 'em. =) Of course if some dealers hear that they might try to unload like $400 worth of parts on you.. Sorry for the WOB (waste o' bandwidth) everybody...I'll leave ASAP.. -Jayson ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / || Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / / || ||/// / / / / / / / || jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / / ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: What is a... To: byrd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Dick Byrd) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:44:09 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Damn! Am I stupid. What is a: > FWIW > TRD > TB > TVIS > AFM > > Is this a test?? > Dick Byrd > byrd@mnsinc.com > Mr. Byrd, You're not stupid. I'll help you out a little. FWIW - "For What It's Worth" IMHO - "In My Honest Opinion" TRD - Toyota Racing Development. This is one of the largest suppliers of high performance aftermarket parts for Toyotas. TB - Throttle Body TVIS - Toyota Variable Induction System. The fuel injection sytem on the MR2, Corolla GT-S, FX16, and Celica, to name a few. AFM - Air Flow Meter. Hope this helps :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:06:40 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, RamziM2@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: 86 MR2 rims for sale >Stock 86 MR2 rims for sale. I live in the Los Angeles area. The rims are in >very good condition. I have Yokohama A-509 tires with about 5000 miles left >on one pair and about 2500 left on the second pair. Price for tires and rims >$190. let me know soon if anyone is interested. > >Ramzi I have (5) (full sized spare) of this setup (oem + A-509) I'll let go for $225 + shipping. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Big Bore Throttle Body Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 07:39:14 PDT >Damn! Am I stupid. What is a: >FWIW >TRD >TB >TVIS >AFM >Is this a test?? >Dick Byrd >byrd@mnsinc.com =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Well I recognise "TVIS" It is written on the top of my Injection system = but the others ! i'm afraid i'm in the same boat !!! Anyone? Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 101000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:49:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Re: Headers vs. Extrude-Hone On 25 Apr 1996, Alex Pun wrote: > Is it better to get headers or to Extrude-Hone the OEM exhaust manifold? How > much does it cost? > I got this from a tidbit off of the mr2-interest list. It's on Geoff's MR2 site. --------------------- - the castings on the intake/exhaust manifolds and head are much smoother then most Japanese or US cars, Extrudehone Corp. told me there would be only minimal benefit from extrusion honing them (Richard Soluk) --------------------- -Jayson ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / || Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / / || jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / / ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: My sound system setup by request To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 12:19:26 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu To all, I've had some requests lately to repost the writeup on what I have done to the MR2 sound system, so here it is completely rewritten for better clarity: Mike, I've deleted from my file the sound system writeup, so I'll sum it up for you here. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask again. You mentioned that the MR2 may be too small to be worth putting a good sound system in and I have to say that it is a great place to build a sound system. With its small area, the sound is very real and if done right, very spacious. I will go through the system that I've installed and also suggest some alternatives to cut costs without reducing sound quality. The components consist of: -Yamaha YCT-925 Tuner and Cassette (in dash) This unit is out of production, but you may be able to use the factory radio with an Audiolink or similar preamp where you put the speaker wires into the audiolink and it converts them into preamp outputs. -Sony CDX-A15 10 disc changer (behind drivers seat) This changer works great and it never skips as long as it's mounted properly. If you go for a changer, don't skimp on this, buy a Sony or similar quality changer. If you decide to use the factory radio, get a FM modulator and remote to run the changer off of your radio on a preset station. -a/d/s/ 642ix electronic crossover (in rear trunk) This crossover is a/d/s/ best one. However it is not necessary for a great system. It just takes any more upgrading out of the way and is very versatile. And the price is not bad. -MB Quart 200.71 two way competition passive crossovers (in rear trunk) These crossovers are simply upgraded from the stock crossovers that come with the MB Quart 4" speakers. The stock ones tended to sound harsh in the midrange and these cleared it up. However, you may be okay with the stock ones that come with the speakers. -(2) a/d/s/ PS5.2 amplifiers (in rear trunk) These have been said by many to be the best amplifier a/d/s/ ever made. It is small and lightweight, puts out 40w per side, and sounds like a lot more. It's one of the cleanest sounding amps ever made. It is out of production, however, Audio Coupe in Fairfield, CT loves them so much, they buy them used from people, recondition them if you like and resell them to you. If you would like one, I can get you Audio Coupe's number. Don't skimp on this one. Sony is however an alternative for small two channel amps. Incidentally, one amp runs the 6.5" speakers in the doors, and the other runs the 4's in the dash and the 3.5s in the rear. -a/d/s/ s6.2i 6.5" bass speakers (in bottom of doors) This is honestly the cleanest bass speaker I've heard. It pounds when you want it to, yet it is never boomy. Audio Coupe used it in their NSX install in Car Stereo Review. I cut out some of the metal at the bottom of the doors with tin snips, then riveted and silicone sealed thin sheet metal to the bottom of the doors, covered that with Dynamat and then cut the hole for the speaker. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't. It took me only a few hours to do this, and it was my first time. The sound quality is incredible as a result. And the speaker fits in without any spacers, since Toyota cut the bottom front of the door window at a 45 degree angle. If you mount the speaker low enough, it clears the window perfectly. This speaker install is a must if you want the ultimate low frequency sound quality without lesser clunky boxes behind the seats or in the trunks. -MB Quart 100KN-S 4" coaxials (in dash) These speakers sound great and make a good mid-high setup. They are honestly the best setup for this application. They can be biamplified if you like since they have separate leads for the mid and tweeter. The price is not bad for a top mid and tweeter combo. An alternative to these speakers is to use just an a/d/s/ tweeter with 4" adaptors, with a/d/s/ AX-2E crossovers between the 6.5" speakers in the doors and the tweeters. That's what was done in the NSX. Oh, by the way, the 4's just pop right in after you snip off the extra two mounting tabs. -Infinity 32K 3.5" speakers (in upper rear location) These will give you the surround sound you requested. I run them in parallel off of the amp that runs the 4" speakers in the dash. Just take the upper rear plastic panel out, cut the hole using the provided template and make sure to match up and drill some holes in the metal to mount the speakers. Also, don't forget to use some polyester insulation behind the speakers in the dash and the speakers in the rear. You can buy a bag of it at any fabric store and it cleans up some of the sound. Overall the sound quality is top notch. And the research and patience paid off. Here is a lower cost alternative setup if I had to do it again on a tighter budget: Use the stock head unit with an Audiolink and get it to have 2 pairs of preamp outputs. Use one a/d/s/ 40w per channel amp to run the 6.5's in the doors and a tweeter setup in the dash together and cross the whole thing over with a pair of a/d/s/ ax2e crossovers. Always use a crossover made for the speaker setup or harshness will be apparent. This is also a reason to choose a/d/s/ or MB Quart since they are some of the few companies to make quality crossovers that match their speakers. Use the Infinity 32K's in the rear with a smaller amp like an a/d/s/ 2.15. I hope I have helped in your quest for great sound. Aly '85 MR2, red with all options abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 14:40:17 -0500 To: aly abulkheir , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: What is a... >> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - >> Damn! Am I stupid. What is a: >> FWIW >> TRD >> TB >> TVIS >> AFM >> >> Is this a test?? >> Dick Byrd >> byrd@mnsinc.com >> > >Mr. Byrd, > You're not stupid. I'll help you out a little. > >FWIW - "For What It's Worth" >IMHO - "In My Honest Opinion" Also In My Humble Opinion. Is there any humbleness out there, anyway? :) >TRD - Toyota Racing Development. This is one of the largest suppliers of > high performance aftermarket parts for Toyotas. >TB - Throttle Body >TVIS - Toyota Variable Induction System. The fuel injection sytem on the > MR2, Corolla GT-S, FX16, and Celica, to name a few. >AFM - Air Flow Meter. > >Hope this helps :) > > Aly > '85 MR2 bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 18:13:05 -0400 To: simpson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Mods installed!! In a message dated 96-04-23 19:31:58 EDT, you write: >Dave, just wondering how light your HKS flywheel is. Well, I never weighed it, but the HKS literature says 10 lb, 14 oz. I had mine resurfaced so it's probably slightly less by a few ounces. Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 26 Apr 96 21:06:42 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Coolant Level I was trying to check my coolant level in my car, but I can't seem to be able to see where the low and high mark is. I can't even see the coolant level. My car doesn't overheat, but I was just curious. Alex Yellow 91 MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: EXPORTER@delphi.com Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 22:27:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: Rod Hunter(and it's not my name) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Yo !! Toy-boys, Any body know who has the best deal on alloy connecting rod for a 20-R motor ? Maybe someone has the phone number or address for Carrillo or Merchant Rods manufacturer or any body else who would make alloy rods? I already have one price for the Carillo's, kind of high. Thanks, Rick Dormoi / T & R xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 10:17:28 +0000 Subject: Re: Coolant Level > Date: 26 Apr 96 21:06:42 EDT > From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> > To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" > Subject: Coolant Level > I was trying to check my coolant level in my car, but I can't seem to be able to > see where the low and high mark is. I can't even see the coolant level. My car > doesn't overheat, but I was just curious. > > Alex > Yellow 91 MR2 Turbo Toyota factory coolant is dark reddish-brown. It can be difficult to read levels since the neck on that overflow resevoir is so long and it accumulates dirt and grit on the outside. After I pressure cleaned my engine compartment I was surprised how it was to read levels (till it got dirty again!). I was actually quite pleased at how incredibly cool a clean MR2 engine compartment looks!! Now I am back to reading the overflow tube "wetplace" like a dipstick! Time to blast out the engine compartment again!! Gary Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!! MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: EXPORTER@delphi.com Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 08:45:33 -0500 (EST) Subject: Corolla KId (Scott) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Scott wrote... Hello Rick, I have a 80 corolla and have been mulling over the mods that I should make to it. Since you seem to have some experience in this area, I thought that I would see if you could give me your opinoins as to what to do with it. I would like to know if you have any input for me and mine... (80 3T-C Corolla, SR-5 HB) I am not going to race seriously - can';t afford it, but spirited street driving and hgihg speed cruising aredefinate priorities. Ignition? Best systems/ most economical? (Crane? Jacobs?) What to do with it? Suspension.... I haven't the faintest... Poly bushings, I suppose, what kind of shocks? Heard that the 2T-C head from pre 74 cars was a high comression one; What kind of benifits from adding it onto miine? Will everything match up? Same good things about the 1972 2T cam... Do you know anything about this? What should I keep in mind when rebuilding my 3T? I was going to install moly rings, other than that, what can I do short of boring the block out? I noticed that you listed lighter rocker arms on your liist of mods, what extra performance do these offer over stock and are they worth their price? What kind of driveline modifications can I make so as to lower the RPM's at the top end (90+ mph)? I heard that the differential froma 1985-87 corolla GT-s is a direct fit replacement... Would it be worth it. I was going to buy a celica... Probably should have, but found a corolla instead.... I appreciate any input that you have; I am still a beginner at this. Anything that you can tell me will be quite valuable to me... Thanks, Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu 80 Corolla SR-5 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------- Reply ------------------------------- Boy Scott !! You asked a lot You have my head spinning, but any way I will try to tell you what I can. I owned a 79 Corolla wagon with a 2-TC motor it was a daily driver (a beater, because I used to beat the hell out of it !!!). I used to make driving to work every day a blast. I used to jump this car about 2-3 feet in the air off a small arched road bridge almost every day. Well rust finally literally eaten this car in half. Luckily it collapsed while i wasn't going to fast. Any way enough of my bragging and rambling . I read once, the rule of thumb for modifying is to start from the tail pipe up . In other words buy a header and big diameter exhaust pipe first. Because all the other major modification such as cams and carbs will increase displacement and your motor needs more flow to make the most of better and bigger induction. This is probably the right way to do it. Although the only thing I did to the 79 Corolla Stunt wagon was a Weber 32 / 36 DGEV carb with an adapter plate ( and it made a world of difference). Tuned it until I had the best combination of Jets (which is a art with in itself and time consuming). I already had a free flow exhaust (leaky) . And found that it ran really well with a larger spark plug gap about .40 . I don't know how deep you want to get into it or how much you know since you say your a beginner. My Celica long ago was a daily driver and it used to piss my ex-wife off because it spent more time being modified in the garage than daily driving and she had to take the bus (sorry dear). May be you want to just want to modify the suspension? And what's this nonsense about not having enough money to race. Haven't you ever consider Auto cross, it only cast about $16.00 to race and you can race any kind of car without crashing your ride (parking lot racing around orange cones). There usually run by the SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) but other car clubs do it to. One car is run at a time you race against the clock. You had a few more questions about components and parts Without writing a book about them all the products I have on my 76 super Celica spec sheet (Me/mine /mods) I am happy with and work fine for me for what I do with it. but I am always constantly modifying and trying to improve the proformance and handling . And learning from it. I you want to know more information about specific products please ask me about them one or two at a time. I'll try to get to your other question latter. In Philadelphia, PA, us motor heads don't have a problem with the emissions laws It all depends on who you know to get by. But I believe Weber still makes a down draft carburator that's legal even for you poor CA Folks. Also you might even get away with a nitrous oxide kit, Lots of people plumb their kits so it's well hidden. Lots of power for the money and you will still pass emissions. It's somthing to study and look into. That's all for now, my key board is smoking. Thanks, Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto exporter@delphi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 96 14:32:18 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Rod Hunter(and it's not my name) I just received a catalog from PAECO and I think that they might have what you are looking for. I got the catalog for free and it has tons of parts for Toyotas. The address and phone #: PAECO Import Parts 2400 Mountain Drive Birmingham, AL 35226 (800) 326-6401 -- For orders only (205) 823-7278 -- Everything else Hope it helps. William Hall wh_hall@msn.com ---------- From: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com on behalf of EXPORTER@delphi.com Sent: Friday, April 26, 1996 11:27 PM To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Rod Hunter(and it's not my name) Yo !! Toy-boys, Any body know who has the best deal on alloy connecting rod for a 20-R motor ? Maybe someone has the phone number or address for Carrillo or Merchant Rods manufacturer or any body else who would make alloy rods? I already have one price for the Carillo's, kind of high. Thanks, Rick Dormoi / T & R xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 14:28:30 -0500 (CDT) From: Chris Hilliard To: EXPORTER@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Corolla KId (Scott) > I read once, the rule of thumb for modifying is to start from > the tail pipe up . In other words buy a header and big diameter > exhaust pipe first. Because all the other major modification such ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ > as cams and carbs will increase displacement and your motor ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Uh...how are you increasing displacement (cubic inches/centimeters) by putting on a carb or cam? The only way to do that that I'm aware of is a bore or stroke job. If there is away to do this then let me know because I'm a machinist. Bored and stroked many a motor and never heard of this. A carb like the Weber increases flow. It sucks more air and will in return burn more gas efficiently. A cam is changing the amount of time that valves stay open and shut (VERY simplified defination!!!). The only way to change the 1770 cc displacement on your 3T-C is a: bore it out b: stroke it so that the pistons are traveling further up/down the cylinder wall Everything else in this post I agree with whole heartedly except I prefer to start at the fuel end instead of the exhaust end. In my case it gave more bang for the buck: i.e. Weber 32/36 on 2T-C. This is purely preference though, no right or wrong. Great Advice!!!! Chris Hilliard **************************************************************** * |\/\/\/| ___________________ * | | / \ * | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____ * | (0)(0) / \ / at \ * C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org | * | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ / * | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, / * /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------ */ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! / ***************************************\____________________________/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 10:21:27 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Sat Apr 27 10:05:11 1996 Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 14:28:30 -0500 (CDT) From: Chris Hilliard > To: EXPORTER@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Corolla KId (Scott) >> I read once, the rule of thumb for modifying is to start from >> the tail pipe up . In other words buy a header and big diameter >> exhaust pipe first. Because all the other major modification such ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ >> as cams and carbs will increase displacement and your motor ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ > Uh...how are you increasing displacement (cubic inches/centimeters) > by putting on a carb or cam? The only way to do that that I'm aware > of is a bore or stroke job. If there is away to do this then let > me know because I'm a machinist. Bored and stroked many a motor > and never heard of this. A carb like the Weber increases flow. > It sucks more air and will in return burn more gas efficiently. > A cam is changing the amount of time that valves stay open and shut > (VERY simplified defination!!!). I agree also... > The only way to change the 1770 cc displacement on your 3T-C is > a: bore it out > b: stroke it so that the pistons are traveling further up/down > the cylinder wall I agree also >=) > Everything else in this post I agree with whole heartedly except > I prefer to start at the fuel end instead of the exhaust end. > In my case it gave more bang for the buck: i.e. Weber 32/36 on 2T-C. > This is purely preference though, no right or wrong. Heh, yeah, most people start up front fuel end. I semi agree with this. Mainly, you have to make a plan first off, then decide how serious you wanna get, and then go from there. Also, being a PUS (Poor Unemployed Student) means you go with what you can afford first off. In my case, I went with a good solid exhaust system. TRD Custom Headers and a 2inch straight stainless steel pipe into a Super Stainless Muffler. Made a lot of noise, so at that time I was happy. I then had to replace the Carb with a Weber 32/36 but when I did that, I found out the stock fuel pump was bad (actually didn't know it was the fuel pump) so i changed the coil, wires, plugs and even added a MSD. All regular maintenance items that should have been taken care of, so I could have saved my money for better things...like Beer or Crusin. > Great Advice!!!! > Chris Hilliard Great Insight Chris !! Scott...i'll try and get my web page up today, or repost the building of my car, since I had similiar intentions, however, most won't apply to you since Ilive in Hawaii, and the miles I can actually travel is different. Heh Yeah... only 887 email more to go... Woo! -Allen T Koji Kam 1989 Celica GT (Removed the S sticker) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 16:48:31 -0500 (CDT) From: Chris Hilliard To: Allen T Koji Kam Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) On Sat, 27 Apr 1996, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: > Also, being a PUS (Poor Unemployed Student) means you go with what you > can afford first off. Whew! Been there and done that! Automatic given. If a pine tree air freshener is where you can start, go ahead ! Need one myself ;) > I found out the stock fuel pump was bad (actually didn't know it was Not a fun job > the fuel pump) so i changed the coil, wires, plugs and even added a > MSD. Give me the stats on your ignition set-up. I've been looking into Cranes (mainly because I had a little VW experience and it worked great) but tell me about your MSD,etc. What kind of gain did you get? > I could have saved my money for better things...like Beer or Crusin. Another given :) Chris H. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 18:10:00 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: Allen T Koji Kam Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) Anybody got a Weber that they wanna sell? heh heh... And has anyone gone into bending their own pipes? (Not headers, they are too specialized, but from there on back? Stock 1 3/4" is not anywhere near enough... Would 2.25" be better or worse than 2" (It's only a four banger...) How is the 2", anywayz? (do you find yourself wishing you had more Koji?) Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu 80 Corolla SR-5 http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1 > > In my case, I went with a good solid exhaust system. TRD Custom Headers > and a 2inch straight stainless steel pipe into a Super Stainless Muffler. > > Made a lot of noise, so at that time I was happy. > > I then had to replace the Carb with a Weber 32/36 but when I did that, > I found out the stock fuel pump was bad (actually didn't know it was > the fuel pump) so i changed the coil, wires, plugs and even added a > MSD. > >Koji xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 20:25:18 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celica GT-R Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) At 04:48 PM 4/27/96 -0500, you wrote: >On Sat, 27 Apr 1996, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: > >> Also, being a PUS (Poor Unemployed Student) means you go with what you >> can afford first off. > > Whew! Been there and done that! Automatic given. If a pine tree >air freshener is where you can start, go ahead ! Need one myself ;) > let me suggest a performance mod for your air freshener. get one of those little colored air freshener cans (called "My Shaldan") found at asian grocery stores for about 3 bucks and mount them in a cup holder (purchased at any auto parts store for about $1.00- also make sure the color of the holder matches your car or it isnt as effective.) located near one of your air vents. this will provide a 15% gain in air breathability. the enjoyment of the overall driving experience will be heightened, and therefore you will be a lot more relaxed, and your foot will rest on the accelerator pedal a lot heavier, so YOUR CAR WILL GO FASTER! i found this to help alot when i'm trying to race people. the reason i suggested one of the "My Shaldan" asian air fresheners is because they are better looking than those stupid trees, which cost about 1.29 in my neck o' the woods. they also last about 3 months, which makes them alot more practical and cost effective, since they only cost 3 bucks (for 3 months of breathing enjoyment) as opposed to the stupid trees which only last a little less than a month. i did the math, and the Shaldan freshener is a better deal! They even carry these in import race shops now! call RACER X at (408)255-1911 and ask for Greg to see exactly what type of applications he has for your car. ....and no, i dont work there, and i'm not trying to promote for him. i just think he has an excellent selection of these in stock. so screw headers, get your "my Shaldan" brand air freshener today. antonio(celica GT-R) aponton@concentric.net (i'm not always this much of a nerd, i just thought that all modified toyota owners could benefit from this info. seems like most of the mods posted here only apply to MR2 owners...this is universal.) >> I found out the stock fuel pump was bad (actually didn't know it was > > Not a fun job > >> the fuel pump) so i changed the coil, wires, plugs and even added a >> MSD. > Give me the stats on your ignition set-up. I've been looking into >Cranes (mainly because I had a little VW experience and it worked great) >but tell me about your MSD,etc. What kind of gain did you get? > >> I could have saved my money for better things...like Beer or Crusin. > > Another given :) > > Chris H. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: "'cmyer'" , Subject: Just testing the line here... Date: Sat, 27 Apr 96 21:21:00 PDT Hello! I have had some problems with bounced mails! Haven't been able to send anything to the group! What a heck... :) -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 19:14:26 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: MSD Info (Was Corolla Kid) From cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org Sat Apr 27 11:51:53 1996 Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 16:48:31 -0500 (CDT) From: Chris Hilliard > Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) On Sat, 27 Apr 1996, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: >> Also, being a PUS (Poor Unemployed Student) means you go with what you >> can afford first off. > Whew! Been there and done that! Automatic given. If a pine tree >air freshener is where you can start, go ahead ! Need one myself ;) Nah, nebber had that much money for a pine tree air freshner ! Lucky you, in Hawaii you can't afford one of those suckers !! I just picked something off the side of the highway =) Nah, air fresh bottles are/is/was the hot item =) I liked Juicy, although switched to scented beads. Strawberry in "smell". Hid them in the air ducts and such, you get used to the smell after a while, but others notice it. Heh, most frequent comment i got is that car smells like Strawberry Shortcake =) Woo Woo =) >> I found out the stock fuel pump was bad (actually didn't know it was > Not a fun job Yeah, not at all... >> the fuel pump) so i changed the coil, wires, plugs and even added a >> MSD. > Give me the stats on your ignition set-up. I've been looking into >Cranes (mainly because I had a little VW experience and it worked great) >but tell me about your MSD,etc. What kind of gain did you get? This was several years ago and I really like the Crane setup. Checked it out at SEMA and looked smooth, considering it uses the Allison ignition and R&D (i think) but it seems to work better. I'd go with the Crane. I'll tell you about the MSD though. No complaints, made a big difference on the top end. You feel difference at the higher rpms. Very smooth and highly recommended. If the NHRA uses them, and still does, then why shouldn't you ? =) Point of Infomation: MSD basically stands for Multiple Spark Discharge I started with a used 4A for $50, couldn't go wrong, although I did have to have to get the install instructions for it from a friend at a local high performance store. Upgraded to a 6-AL later on, although I found that i left the "variable" setting at the highest, so better to get the set one. I did like the versitility and there is a big difference between a 4 and a 6. Never did try the 5. I did try the Jacob's system, where they go with the single spark but higher voltage (?) 30k or so. I did try it, and I liked the performance of the MSD better. Altough please remeber my setup on my car was a 1980 Corolla SR-5 3TC head work, custom crank, but the car was "stock" considered in motor wise, all Stock Toyota parts just to spec. Also it was a daily driver and in Hawaii you don't have much space or road to go beyond 120mph. So I geared/setup my car for the fastest 0 - 120mph time possible. This included running 5:13 final drive gears and 225/50 x 13. Redline for my car was 10k. Gain wise, "unofficially" my 0-60 times were the same. The top end from 60-120mph did drop by a full second, and acceleration was much smoother. >> I could have saved my money for better things...like Beer or Crusin. > Another given :) > In my case, was Strip Bars and Crusin Waikiki. > Chris H. Allen T Koji Kam 1987 FX-16 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 19:27:54 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Exhaust (Was Corolla Kid) From ssdavis1@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu Sat Apr 27 13:10:13 1996 Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 18:10:00 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) > Anybody got a Weber that they wanna sell? heh heh... Heh, I got a whole bunch of jets for a progressive plus drill bits to drill out your 32/36 jets when you run out of sizes ;) You CAN run low 15's with a 32/36 carb. It does give you enough flow. > And has anyone gone into bending their own pipes? >(Not headers, they are too specialized, but from there on back?) Heh, I saved myself the trouble and had someone tune my exhaust for $150 which was a good deal. >Stock 1 3/4" is not anywhere near enough... I agree, just changing the cat back would be significant for a stock modification. A Baby turbo muffler would work also. >Would 2.25" be better or worse than 2" (It's only a four banger...) It was my impression it would be too much flow for my car. >How is the 2", anywayz? My setup was a custom TRD Racing Header (Bought the kit and had someone weld it for me) From the header went to a 1 3/4 pipe into a Glasspack 1 3/4" with a 2" outlet into a pipe back. I cringed when they got rid of my stainless pipe (all nice and shiny) altough my new exhaust system worked better. Just a shame to see my stainless go. (*sigh*) >(do you find yourself wishing you had more Koji?) No, I interchanged motors. I ran a fully prepped 2TG bored roughly rated at some 200hp and it handled fine. Enough flow and backpressure. Ran an official 13.7 1/4 mile time and hit over 150mph on the freeway with still 2k rpm to go. I belive my exhaust person asked me what my specifications were on my motor and what hp rating and speeds i wanted to attain. I do belive later on we added a second glasspack muffler inline for better flow. Although was too much flow later on. >Scott >stdinssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu >80 Corolla SR-5 >http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1 -Allen T Koji Kam 1993 Rollerblade Tarmac CE Abec 1 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 00:04:14 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Collins To: Allen T Koji Kam Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: MSD Info (Was Corolla Kid) On Sat, 27 Apr 1996, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: > >From cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org Sat Apr 27 11:51:53 1996 > Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 16:48:31 -0500 (CDT) > From: Chris Hilliard > > Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) > > On Sat, 27 Apr 1996, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: > > >> Also, being a PUS (Poor Unemployed Student) means you go with what you > >> can afford first off. > > > Whew! Been there and done that! Automatic given. If a pine tree > >air freshener is where you can start, go ahead ! Need one myself ;) > > Nah, nebber had that much money for a pine tree air freshner ! > > Lucky you, in Hawaii you can't afford one of those suckers !! > > I just picked something off the side of the highway =) > > Nah, air fresh bottles are/is/was the hot item =) > > I liked Juicy, although switched to scented beads. Strawberry > in "smell". Hid them in the air ducts and such, you get used to the smell > after a while, but others notice it. > > Heh, most frequent comment i got is that car smells like Strawberry > Shortcake =) Woo Woo =) > > >> I found out the stock fuel pump was bad (actually didn't know it was > > > Not a fun job > > Yeah, not at all... > > >> the fuel pump) so i changed the coil, wires, plugs and even added a > >> MSD. > > Give me the stats on your ignition set-up. I've been looking into > >Cranes (mainly because I had a little VW experience and it worked great) > >but tell me about your MSD,etc. What kind of gain did you get? > > This was several years ago and I really like the Crane setup. > Checked it out at SEMA and looked smooth, considering it uses the > Allison ignition and R&D (i think) but it seems to work better. > > I'd go with the Crane. > > I'll tell you about the MSD though. No complaints, made a big difference > on the top end. You feel difference at the higher rpms. Very smooth > and highly recommended. If the NHRA uses them, and still does, then > why shouldn't you ? =) > > Point of Infomation: MSD basically stands for Multiple Spark Discharge > > I started with a used 4A for $50, couldn't go wrong, although > I did have to have to get the install instructions for it from a friend > at a local high performance store. > > Upgraded to a 6-AL later on, although I found that i left the "variable" > setting at the highest, so better to get the set one. I did like the > versitility and there is a big difference between a 4 and a 6. > Never did try the 5. > > I did try the Jacob's system, where they go with the single spark > but higher voltage (?) 30k or so. I did try it, and I liked the performance > of the MSD better. > > Altough please remeber my setup on my car was a 1980 Corolla SR-5 > 3TC head work, custom crank, but the car was "stock" considered in > motor wise, all Stock Toyota parts just to spec. Also it was a daily > driver and in Hawaii you don't have much space or road to go > beyond 120mph. So I geared/setup my car for the fastest 0 - 120mph time > possible. This included running 5:13 final drive gears and 225/50 x 13. > Redline for my car was 10k. what kind of tires were these? where did you get them? i seem to have trouble finding tires this wide in 13's or 14's and 50 series to boot. in japan it would be no problem, just pick up some v'grids although it would cost you mucho moolah, but here in the states everyone is caught up on the 18 and 19 inch rims, kinda hard to fit those on a TE27. > > Gain wise, "unofficially" my 0-60 times were the same. The top end > from 60-120mph did drop by a full second, and acceleration was much > smoother. > > >> I could have saved my money for better things...like Beer or Crusin. > > > Another given :) > > > > In my case, was Strip Bars and Crusin Waikiki. > > > Chris H. > > > Allen T Koji Kam > 1987 FX-16 > James Collins collinsj@bird.library.arizona.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 08:22:00 -0500 (CDT) From: Chris Hilliard To: celica GT-R Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) On Sat, 27 Apr 1996, celica GT-R wrote: > let me suggest a performance mod for your air freshener. get one of those little colored air freshener cans (called "My Shaldan") found at asian grocery stores for about 3 bucks and mount them in a cup holder (purchased at any auto parts store for about $1.00- also make sure the color of the holder matches your car or it isnt as effective.) located near one of your air vents. this will provide a 15% gain in air breathability. the enjoyment of the overall driving experience will be heightened, and therefore you will be a lot more relaxed, and your foot will rest on the accelerator pedal a lot heavier, so YOUR CAR WILL GO FASTER! i found this to help alot when i'm trying to race people. > the reason i suggested one of the "My Shaldan" asian air fresheners is because they are better looking than those stupid trees, which cost about 1.29 in my neck o' the woods. they also last about 3 months, which makes them alot more practical and cost effective, since they only cost 3 bucks (for 3 months of breathing enjoyment) as opposed to the stupid trees which only last a little less than a month. i did the math, and the Shaldan freshener is a better deal! Good idea! Those incense sticks that I had stuck up in the console kept blowing into the backseat area if I had the windows down and resulted in burn holes in the luxurious brown vinal seats. It's hard to get that Bic lighter to do it's job too ;) Hmmmm....new performance term? Enjoyment Flow (e.f.)? **************************************************************** * |\/\/\/| ___________________ * | | / \ * | | ____________ / Catch this airhead \____ * | (0)(0) / \ / at \ * C _) / \/ cxh6989@jackson.freenet.org | * | ,___| < AYE CARUMBA!!! \ / * | / \ / \ "I didn't do it, / * /====\ \____________/ \ Nobody saw me, ------------ */ \ \ You can't prove a thing!!! / ***************************************\____________________________/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 08:26:48 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: traikkonen@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: your mail > I have had some problems with bounced mails! Haven't been able to > send anything to the group! What a heck... :) Got here ok - appears tho that there have been a lot of sites down as I have received numerous name server time-outs and hence my mailbox is full after the week-end of bounced mail... :( Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 21:46:33 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Will acetylene *only* cut through a car body? OK, this is a *really* basic welding question, but I have to ask - will acetylene *only* cut through a car body *efficiently*? I have gone at the shell of my car as best I can with a Sawzall, but there are just some places that are impossible to get to with the cutter, and some others that are too tight for the cutter to get into. Also, the Dremel is too small for some of the joints, and would just plain take too long if I *could* get into the corners. I have been given free access to an acetylene torch, but not an *oxy*-acetylene torch. Will the acetylene *only* torch produce enough heat to cut through the metal? I don't intend to weld, just to butcher. :) Pretty or neat it doesn't have to be - just cutting is important in this instance. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have to fill the tank before I can use it, and don't want to fill the tank, then find out that the acetylene *only* just plain won't work, for whatever reason. Many thanks to anyone who can help, or anyone who has experience in this matter. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 00:11:01 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig A Terlau To: Scott Davis Cc: Allen T Koji Kam , Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) > > And has anyone gone into bending their own pipes? (Not headers, > they are too specialized, but from there on back? Stock 1 3/4" is not > anywhere near enough... Would 2.25" be better or worse than 2" (It's > only a four banger...) How is the 2", anywayz? (do you find yourself > wishing you had more Koji?) I have had good results by taking the stock exhaust pipe to a muffler shop and asking them to duplicate it out of 2.5 inch tubing. It is less than $100 to get the piece bent up that goes from the header over the rear axle and to the muffler. Then just find the best way to hang the thing. I like to put one of the hangers in the highest pate of the bend that goes over the rear axle. Make sure to tell the tube bender that you want a quality job with NO KINKS. Sometimes it is difficult for them to form a series of tight bends out of large tubing and in that case I tell them that It doesn't have to be one continuous piece. As long as I have all the bends I can braize it together myself. Craig. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 00:19:58 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig A Terlau To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Custom tube bending > And has anyone gone into bending their own pipes? (Not headers, > they are too specialized, but from there on back? Stock 1 3/4" is not > anywhere near enough... Would 2.25" be better or worse than 2" (It's > only a four banger...) How is the 2", anywayz? (do you find yourself > wishing you had more Koji?) I have had good results by taking the stock exhaust pipe to a muffler shop and asking them to duplicate it out of 2.5 inch tubing. It is less than $100 to get the piece bent up that goes from the header over the rear axle and to the muffler. Then just find the best way to hang the thing. I like to put one of the hangers in the highest pate of the bend that goes over the rear axle. Make sure to tell the tube bender that you want a quality job with NO KINKS. Sometimes it is difficult for them to form a series of tight bends out of large tubing and in that case I tell them that It doesn't have to be one continuous piece. As long as I have all the bends I can braize it together myself. Craig. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 04:25:30 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: robmach@aye.net (Robin Mach) Subject: Re: Will acetylene *only* cut through a car body? > >Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have to fill the tank before I can >use it, and don't want to fill the tank, then find out that the acetylene >*only* just plain won't work, for whatever reason. > With acetylene only you >>might<< be able to melt your way through things, but to cut you MUST have oxygen. Without getting off into serious weldo stuff here, basically what you do is get the steel hot enough to burn with an oxy-acetylene flame ( yes indeedy, boys and girls, steel does indeed *burn* quite nicely ) and then you dump oxygen into it with the boost lever so the steel CAN burn. The sort of holes you're going to make with an acetylene only torch can easily be replicated with, say, a pick-ax. Sorry to be a bummer. Robin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 04:25:34 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: robmach@aye.net (Robin Mach) Subject: Re: Custom tube bending As long as I have >all the bends I can braize it together myself. > >Craig. > If you're determined, you can build an entire header back exhaust system from off the shelf 2.5" pipe bends from the local auto parts store. I can't really recommend this approach, as it involved about three days and a lot of foul language to accomplish this on a '77 Celica, but it did get me a decently free flowing exhaust system. Robin '77 Celica ST '82 Celica GT '93 Tank ( 4x4 ) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:46:45 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Steve McAlister Raleigh, NC 1990 4-Runner SR5V6, Auto 3.0L V6 Mods: Jacobs Ignition System K&N Filter Charger Borla Cat Back System Free Flow Cat Email: steev@bnr.ca (work account) kkrg66a@prodigy.com (home account) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 23:58:45 +1000 (EST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Scott Subject: me/mine/mods Name: David Scott (known as Dr. Scotch) Location: Sydney, Australia Email: davescot@ozemail.com.au Road Car: Model: My road car is a 1995 MR2 Bathurst (an Australian model - without all the fancy extras such as leather seats and power steering, so it weighs about 36 kg less - for competition) Engine: 3S-GE (III) 3rd generation normally aspirated version - 130kw (about 180BHP?) Mods: None so far Comp. Car: Model: 1973 KE20 Corolla Engine: Currently a 3T with 45DCOE Webers, cams, head work etc. Previously a series of 2T-G's putting out from 160-180 BHP About to be a 3T-GTEU Mods: Other than the engine bits, the car runs a T-50 box, 1975 TA23 rear axle assembly with TRD 4-pinion LSD and 4.875:1 gear set, Chrysler Valiant front discs mounted on rear axle with tapered roller bearing modification to reduce pad knock-off, and some model Corona calipers (I can't even remember what they are anymore!), Datsun 180B (710 in the rest of the world) front struts with 240Z hubs, Chrysler Centura (don't know that this car went anywhere else in the world) ventilated front discs and Holden Commodore (local version of Opel Senator) calipers. Hi, Just joined and I want something! What I'm after is information on making the 3T-GTEU go. The only limitation imposed by the class of racing I'm building for, is the requirement for a 36mm restrictor plate no more than 50mm upstream of the impellor blades. The only other limitation is, of course, my ability to pay for it! We have come up with a venturi design for the restrictor, which we figure should flow something in the area of 500-550 cfm ... do you think this will be enough? Thanks for your help. Dr. Scotch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: How to get in touch with TRD To: steev@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (steve) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:31:57 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Can someone supply me with a number for how to get in touch > with TRD? > > Is TRD an independent supplier using the "Development" name > or are they actually connected with Toyota? > > Thanks, > > Steve > Welcome Steve, I've found it pretty useless in my experience to call TRD direct. The guy who I asked my questions to really didn't know much about the products, and I've called a few times. Your best bet is to call Select Sales in Florida. They have great prices with discounts on TRD products. They can be reached at (305) 888-2828. I believe this is the right number. I don't have TRD's direct number on hand. When I first started getting into modifying my MR2, I assumed that Toyota and TRD were working together, that TRD was a subsidiary, like Mopar for Chrysler, but I was wrong. I spoke to a few people, the local Toyota dealer, TRD, etc., and they kind of gave me the same message that Toyota pretty much wants nothing to do with TRD. The dealers don't even know the number for TRD, or how to get in touch with them. Just remember one thing, that TRD parts may (will?) be getting harder to find since a lot of the products are being discontinued since TRD has decided to spend a lot of its time and money on Indycar racing. In fact you may already know that Toyota will be racing for the first time this year in the Indy 500. Hope this helps :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: How to get in touch with TRD To: steev@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (steve) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:34:36 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Can someone supply me with a number for how to get in touch > with TRD? > > Is TRD an independent supplier using the "Development" name > or are they actually connected with Toyota? > > Thanks, > > Steve > I should also mention that Chris Myer may also have some TRD parts left and other good parts for your truck. Definitely check with him and see what he says. Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: MR2 license plate lights To: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:47:46 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi everyone, By any chance does anyone know how to replace the little lamps that light up the rear license plate on an '85-'87.5 MR2? Both of mine are out and I'd like to replace them, but I don't see any screws on or around these lights. Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: celica gt-r Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 29 Apr 96 9:51:53 Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) A little warning from someone who used to use My Shaldan, and is now back to trees..... The canned My Shaldan air-freshener is made up of some kind of wax. You may notice that this wax evaporates leaving a dried apricot-looking substance in the bottom of the can. Ever wonder where the wax goes? I found out the hard (read: expensive) way. They evaporate and and collect themselves in the Air Conditioner's cooling fins (inside the car, not the one in the engine compartment). The accumulated wax reduced cooling effeciency of the AC. I had to get an AC shop to open up the evaporator and clean out the fins using some kind of chemical/acid. The AC repair person claims that he's cleaned a lot of evaporators with the same problem.... and they all smelled good. =) I used the Shaldan things for several years before that happened. So don't expect the build-up right away. But I have to agree, those Shaldan cans are sooooo addictive. If you really can't stay away from them, go for the Lime Green ones..... =) Another air freshening alternative is the Sesame Street air fresheners. Its a sweet smelling sponge in a Shaldan-type of can. 'Ernie and Bert' smells better than 'Big Bird'..... =) John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: aponton @ cris.com (celica GT-R) @ internet Date: 04/27/96 08:25 PM Subject: RE: Corolla Kid (Scott) ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ At 04:48 PM 4/27/96 -0500, you wrote: >On Sat, 27 Apr 1996, Allen T Koji Kam wrote: > >> Also, being a PUS (Poor Unemployed Student) means you go with what you >> can afford first off. > > Whew! Been there and done that! Automatic given. If a pine tree >air freshener is where you can start, go ahead ! Need one myself ;) > let me suggest a performance mod for your air freshener. get one of those little colored air freshener cans (called "My Shaldan") found at asian grocery stores for about 3 bucks and mount them in a cup holder (purchased at any auto parts store for about $1.00- also make sure the color of the holder matches your car or it isnt as effective.) located near one of your air vents. this will provide a 15% gain in air breathability. the enjoyment of the overall driving experience will be heightened, and therefore you will be a lot more relaxed, and your foot will rest on the accelerator pedal a lot heavier, so YOUR CAR WILL GO FASTER! i found this to help alot when i'm trying to race people. the reason i suggested one of the "My Shaldan" asian air fresheners is because they are better looking than those stupid trees, which cost about 1.29 in my neck o' the woods. they also last about 3 months, which makes them alot more practical and cost effective, since they only cost 3 bucks (for 3 months of breathing enjoyment) as opposed to the stupid trees which only last a little less than a month. i did the math, and the Shaldan freshener is a better deal! They even carry these in import race shops now! call RACER X at (408)255-1911 and ask for Greg to see exactly what type of applications he has for your car. ....and no, i dont work there, and i'm not trying to promote for him. i just think he has an excellent selection of these in stock. so screw headers, get your "my Shaldan" brand air freshener today. antonio(celica GT-R) aponton@concentric.net (i'm not always this much of a nerd, i just thought that all modified toyota owners could benefit from this info. seems like most of the mods posted here only apply to MR2 owners...this is universal.) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 12:38:10 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: How to get in touch with TRD Previously on Toyota Mods: > Can someone supply me with a number for how to get in touch with TRD? Is TRD an independent supplier using the "Development" name or are they actually connected with Toyota? ***************************************************************** The number I have at my desk for TRD is (714)444-1188. I don't think that is the latest, however. If I find the newer one, I will post it. According to my 1990 TRD catalog, TRD is its own separate company, but they have the blessing of the factory, sort of like the Mugen/Honda connection. I believe there is a TRD of Japan as well as TRD USA. Dealers would not have an inside line to TRD parts according to the catalog since they are not part of Toyota. And as I think I warned everyone in the past, just because you order from TRD doesn't mean you get TRD parts. They sell HKS cams under their name, and the sway bar kits are Addco, which you can get for about half the money from JC Whitney. I have to believe many of their parts are like this. Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 11:43:59 -0500 To: aly abulkheir , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2 license plate lights >Hi everyone, > By any chance does anyone know how to replace the little lamps that >light up the rear license plate on an '85-'87.5 MR2? Both of mine are out >and I'd like to replace them, but I don't see any screws on or around these >lights. They are pretty hard to get to, because of the way the rear wall is designed. Probably the best thing to do is remove the entire assembly, there are two 10mm(?) nuts holding them both in. Once they are removed, pull the assemblies out, and you should be able to remove the light bulb hook from the rear. Nothing special, just a lot of bending over to see into the body, to get to the nuts. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 18:30:10 -0400 (EDT) To: Craig A Terlau From: celica GT-R Subject: Re: Custom tube bending Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com what do you guys think the real advantage of 2 1/4" pipes are? i know that most aftermarket exhaust systems use 2 1/4 or 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes, and everyone recommends the larger pipes, but when i got rid of my celica's stock setup for 2.25" pipes, i didn't see any real difference in hp. it in fact made me a bit more sluggish off the line.(1000-3300 rpm or so) i know that most people rev their engine to hell and then let off the clutch to take off hella quick, but my car is also a daily driver, and i cant be doing that every day at stoplights n stuff. i was contemplating moving down to 2.0 inch pipes just so i wont be as sluggish at low end speeds. my car is setup for autocross, not dragging, so i dont really need all that top end spd, even though the larger pipes are really nice on freeways. what do you guys think? email me back w/ suggestions please. tankya. antonio celica GT-R aponton@concentric.net At 12:19 AM 4/29/96 -0500, you wrote: > >> And has anyone gone into bending their own pipes? (Not headers, >> they are too specialized, but from there on back? Stock 1 3/4" is not >> anywhere near enough... Would 2.25" be better or worse than 2" (It's >> only a four banger...) How is the 2", anywayz? (do you find yourself >> wishing you had more Koji?) > >I have had good results by taking the stock exhaust pipe to a muffler >shop and asking them to duplicate it out of 2.5 inch tubing. It is less >than $100 to get the piece bent up that goes from the header over the >rear axle and to the muffler. Then just find the best way to hang the >thing. I like to put one of the hangers in the highest pate of the bend >that goes over the rear axle. Make sure to tell the tube bender that you >want a quality job with NO KINKS. Sometimes it is difficult for them to >form a series of tight bends out of large tubing and in that case I tell >them that It doesn't have to be one continuous piece. As long as I have >all the bends I can braize it together myself. > >Craig. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 19:24:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Re: Custom tube bending To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Robin writes: >If you're determined, you can build an entire header back exhaust system >from off the shelf 2.5" pipe bends from the local auto parts store. I can't >really recommend this approach, as it involved about three days and a lot of >foul language to accomplish this on a '77 Celica, but it did get me a >decently free flowing exhaust system. Hey, I did the same thing for my '80 Celica. Wasn't too hard, a lot of time spent getting everything to line up. A chop saw is a must. I used an oxy-acetylene welder for the butt welds. The local muffler guy was impressed. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 20:36:30 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Camshaft for 22R Does anyone know the specs for the stock cam for the 22R? ('81) Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 00:44:51 -0700 To: Jimmy Hu , From: Aric Shen Subject: RE: 95 Supre SE to Turbo Convert Cc: Owner I forgot where or who this original message originate from, but DRAG Turbo Systems (the Honda turbo guys) did a kit for a NA Supra.. it looked pretty good.. it included a big Spearco core front mount intercooler.. really big.. bigger than anything HKS has ever put out.. the turbo was decently sized.. I'm not sure what they did for added fuel, but the owner of the car eventually got an Accel DFI installed at Dynamic Autosports.. At 11:52 AM 4/25/96 -0700, Jimmy Hu wrote: > >On 25 Apr 1996, Lawrence M. Saccone Jr. wrote: > >> Mark, >> In order to turn any non-turbo vehicle into a turbo vehicle, >> you are talking about extensive work. I don't know the actual >> compression ratio of your engine, but on turbocharged apps, >> you should be at about 8.0:1. I think your car is a bit above that. >> Also you'll need to make room ;) I've seen under the hood of >> the Supra SE..... pretty crowded! >> Good luck, hope you have lots of cash $$$$ >> Larry S >> (Through cash.... all things are possible!) >> > >I saw Toyomoto's Ad, and I think it's about $5500 for the stage one NA >to TT conversion. Not bad. >But I heard the SE is missing some stuff that the regular NA have (So >that's why the price is a lot cheaper than the regular NA too). Not quite >sure about it. > >Jimmy >94 JZA80TT > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 30 Apr 96 08:08:37 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol Cc: "Steve B." , Subject: Knock Sensor Ok, All, Here are the long awaited error codes. 1) 34 2) 35 3) 52 The first two were about the overboost which I kind of figured. The last, the knock sensor...... How the hell do I test this thing?? There is absolutely nothing about this sensor other than that it exists in the manual! Toyota wants 142 dollars for a new sensor! Now, I don't mind spending the money (what's another 150 towards the money pit ;) But if that's not the problem?? I do hear a rather noisy vibration coming from the timing belt cover at about 2000 rpm. Anyways, if anyone knows how to test this, or has had the error 52 before lemme know. Thanks, Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 8:36:19 -0400 From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Camshaft for 22R See below, I finally was able to dig these up for someone else in February. Good thing I saved 'em!! >Okay Guys, here they >are.................................................... >For 1975 and up 20R's and non EFI 22R's: >Intake Duration- 272 degrees >Exhaust Duration- 248 degrees >Intake Lift- 10.1 mm >Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm >For EFI 22R's: >Intake Duration- 248 degrees >Exhaust Duration- 280 degrees >Intake Lift- 10.0 mm >Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm >Enjoy................... I had to look high and low for them!! >Later, >Beth Beth C. Williams Automated Degree Audit Specialist Office of the University Registrar University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill 105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-2100 Phone: (919) 962-0495 e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 00:41:17 +1000 (EST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Scott Subject: Diffs I have a friend that is looking for a crownwheel and pinion set (diff gears) for his Corolla. He's after a 4.8:1 set for a 6 inch TRD 4-pinion LSD (so, gears for a Starlet or such). TRD says that they have up to 4.4:1 or so - anybody got any ideas where he may get some? Dr. Scotch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 00:41:32 +1000 (EST) To: steev@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (steve) From: David Scott Subject: Re: How to get in touch with TRD Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Can someone supply me with a number for how to get in touch > with TRD? > > Is TRD an independent supplier using the "Development" name > or are they actually connected with Toyota? > > Thanks, > > Steve > Steve, The Latest I have (as of January this year) is as follows: TRD USA Inc. 335 East Baker Street, Costa Mesa, California 92626 Phone (714) 444 1188 Fax (714) 444 0339 or 444 4289 Toyota Technocraft Co, Ltd (TRD) 800 Morooka-Machi Kohoku-Ku, Yohohama Kanagawa, 222 Japan Phone (045) 543 5639 Fax (045) 544 2832 Calling Japan can be a little difficult - although you will normally find a technical person that can speak enough English to allow you to converse, getting to them through the switch board operator can be interesting! A have found a fax to be the easiest way. Dr. Scotch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 11:52:28 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Diffs Hey, I want one, too!!! I did hear that the diff from a 85-87 corolla GT-s is compatable and has a good gear ration. I am not sure quite what that ratio is, but better than stock. LSD I believe. Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu 80 Corolla SR-5 http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1 > I have a friend that is looking for a crownwheel and pinion set (diff gears) > for his Corolla. > > He's after a 4.8:1 set for a 6 inch TRD 4-pinion LSD (so, gears for a > Starlet or such). > > TRD says that they have up to 4.4:1 or so - anybody got any ideas where he > may get some? > > Dr. Scotch > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 13:37:37 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) Subject: Will acetylene *only* cut through a car body? >I have been given free access to an acetylene torch, but >not an *oxy*-acetylene torch. Will the acetylene *only* torch produce >enough heat to cut through the metal? I don't intend to weld, just to >butcher. :) Pretty or neat it doesn't have to be - just cutting is >important in this instance. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Acetylene only burns with a very smoky, foul-smelling dirty flame and would't melt an ice cube. Its the oxygen that makes it work. No one uses acetylene only, however you could have an acetylene and air torch, which would be about as hot as a propane-air torch. Dick Dick Byrd byrd@mnsinc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Madhu Dev Pichai" To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Subject: me/mine/mods Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 11:31:41 -0700 My name is Madhu Pichai, and I go by my middle name which is Dave... I live in Costa Mesa California I own a 91 MR2 Turbo, with a 3S-GTE motor. Mods: HKS Turbo exhaust, HKS Super Power Flow air filter, HKS EVC III boost control, Trust Intercooler upgrade, HKS Fuel Cut Defencer, HKS Twin Power Ignition Module, 17" OZ Monte Carlo rims, 255/40-17 Pirelli P7's, Eibach sport springs, with 11/2 coils cut, Suspension Techniques Sway bars... Hmm... I think that's it. Oh, I have the white guage faces installed, a RAZO shift knob, and I have a Kenwood stereo with four HiPhonics amps (900 watts), 8 full range Infinity speakers, and 2 Bazooka subs. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ml36@cornell.edu Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 15:31:25 -0400 (EDT) To: Scott Davis Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Diffs I've heard the same thing- that the old Corolla GTS rear ends are a direct bolt-in replacement for the earlier corollas. The GTS has a 6.7" ring gear (vs. 6.38" for the SR5 and some older corollas) and TRD has several choices of gear ratios for it, though I don't remember them off the top of my head. LSD was an option, but the standard diff and lsd had the same size ring gear and final drive ratio with stock gearing. hope this was useful -Mike Leary Ithaca NY 1987 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 08:58:56 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: Scott Davis Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Diffs I have the 85/86 LSD rear end in my RA 23 Celica (took some work but it was worth it). The LSD is as tight as and churps big time when reversing. They come in two ratios 4.11:1 and 4.3:1 the 4.11 seems to be the most common and a import wrecker in fast fours (can't remember which one) lists the a disc to disc set up for around $800 give or take. I just picked mine up out of the paper in Canberra so they can't be too hard to find. As for a lower ratio I have a vague recollection that early Hi-ace vans ran a 6.7" ring gear (which is the same size as the GTS) and they had ratios up to 5.8:1. Hope that helps. cheers ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Tue, 30 Apr 1996, Scott Davis wrote: > Hey, I want one, too!!! > > I did hear that the diff from a 85-87 corolla GT-s is compatable and has > a good gear ration. I am not sure quite what that ratio is, but better > than stock. LSD I believe. > > Scott > > ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu > 80 Corolla SR-5 > http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1 > > > I have a friend that is looking for a crownwheel and pinion set (diff gears) > > for his Corolla. > > > > He's after a 4.8:1 set for a 6 inch TRD 4-pinion LSD (so, gears for a > > Starlet or such). > > > > TRD says that they have up to 4.4:1 or so - anybody got any ideas where he > > may get some? > > > > Dr. Scotch > > > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: EXPORTER@delphi.com Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 23:58:45 -0500 (EST) Subject: RE Corolla Kid (again) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From Rick, > I read once, the rule of thut. Because all the other major modification > such as cams and carbs will increase displacement and your > motor. ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^--------------------------------- From Chris H. Uh...how are you increasing displacement (cubic inches/ centimeters) by putting on a carb or cam? The only way to do that that I'm aware of is a bore or stroke job. If there is away to do this then let me know because I'm a machinist. Bored and stroked many a motor and never heard of this. A carb like the Weber increases flow. It sucks more air and will in return burn more gas efficiently. A cam is changing the amount of time that valves stay open and shut (VERY simplified definition!!!). The only way to change the 1770 cc displacement on your 3T-C is a: bore it out b: stroke it so that the pistons are traveling further up/down the cylinder wall. Everything else in this post I agree with whole heatedly except I prefer to start at the fuel end instead of the exhaust end. In my case it gave more bang for the buck: i.e. Weber 32/36 on 2T-C. This is purely preference though, no right or wrong. Great Advice!!!! Chris Hilliard -------------------------- Reply ----------------------------- From : Rick Dormoi Oooops! , Thanto say was, in modifying a motor for higher power out put. You are creating an exhaust volume to be displaced at a faster rate. therefore having a need to have a larger exhaust diameter to reduce the chance of reversion. Which is spent gas (already burned) going back into the combustion chamber. Usually caused by high back pressure from a restricted exhaust , creating a weak mixture. (But I think you knew what I was trying to say). I never really started from the exhaust on up either mainly because it depended on what was a good deal and how much money I wanted to allow my self to spend. But theoretically it kind of makes sense. Also you have to admit bolting on a header exhaust most of the time is easier than mounting and jetting an after market carburator for a beginner. Any way for you beginners out there. What ever you do make sure you don't get in over your head and that you have enough knowledge to handle the job if you are doing it your self . Especially if it's the only car to get you around every day. Always try to study the project before you dive into it and get all the right tools, parts, sealants ect., before you start. Not as you go along. It tends to make things more pleasant if your not sure of an installation procedure read up or ask questions to any one who knows (even the dumb questions) and you'll get the job done faster so you can get to the best part. THE TEST RIDE !!!! Have fun, go fast, drive safe, Peace. Rick Dormoi / T & R Auto exporter@delphi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx