^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ P O S T I N G S May 1996 ^^^
^^^ --------------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 01:03:53 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Finally got it!
Well, I finally got my '86 from Florida! Only three weeks late (long story).
Now to begin that modification from an auto to a 5-speed...
BYW, anyone out there interested in the auto trans, or any of the
"auto-specific" parts (like the trans computer)? I'll be pulling it all off
in the next couple weeks.
Dave A.
daucott@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 23:25:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: tire pressure for Celicas
Hi all,
For all 86-89 Celica owners (3S-xxx engine) running 205/60R14, are you
going by the recommended pressure of 26 psi front and rear? You probably
know that with 26 psi in the front, the tires look underinflated.
I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
change?
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu
87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, 102K miles, 195/60R14 with 32 psi front/27 psi rear,
suspension stock except Eibach progressive springs & Tokico struts
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Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 10:55:15 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: defeo@charlotte.med.nyu.edu (Anthony DeFeo)
Subject: me/mine/mods
hello,
this is anthony DeFeo i have just joined th mods list. Here is the info
asked for with some additional comments.
Name: Anthony DeFeo
location: Tuxedo, NY, 10987
model: 1993 MR2 normally aspirated
engine: 5SFE
mods: none yet
as you can see i have not done any mods yet but have been on the MR2 page
and am on the MR2 digest and have found this to be of great benefit for
ideas. I would defenitely like to get some more power out of my vehicle. I
am considering either a HKS power flow or a K+N power filter injector kit
and a sport exhaust sytem but have not come across any additional power
mods. I have also been considering purchasing anti sway bars from
suspesion techneques, toiciko? adjustable shocks and eibach springs. I am
defenitley new to all this with limeted knowledge of motor engines but am
interested in learning more
thanks
anthony defeo
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Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 10:08:44 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: tire pressure for Celicas
>From: Phillip Dang
>Hi all,
>
>For all 86-89 Celica owners (3S-xxx engine) running 205/60R14, are you
>going by the recommended pressure of 26 psi front and rear? You probably
>know that with 26 psi in the front, the tires look underinflated.
>
>I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
>change?
>
>Phil
Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your
understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire
pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to
35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire
pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling
characteristics (eg, understeer)
Dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: ml36@cornell.edu
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 14:20:52 -0400 (EDT)
To: Justin Simpson
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Diffs
On Wed, 1 May 1996, Justin Simpson wrote:
> I have the 85/86 LSD rear end in my RA 23 Celica (took some work but it
> was worth it). The LSD is as tight as and churps big time when reversing.
Justin-
I recently swapped the standard (non-LSD) rear in my corolla GTS for an
'85 LSD rear from a junkyard, and mine is definitely not very tight.
Switching to Red Line 75W-90NS oil helped a bunch, but it still seems
looser than I expected, and I still get lots of wheelspin on the inside
rear while accelerating out of corners in Solo II. My question to you
is, can you give me some kind of estimate of the tightness I should
expect from the stock diff? Either something seat of the pants like how
hard is it to turn one rear wheel with the other one held, or a torque
number if you can measure it easily. I can feel resistance when I turn
one rear wheel with the other on the ground, but its not what I would
call difficult to turn. I've lost my torque wrench and haven't replaced
it yet, so its hard for me to put a more quantitative number on it.
Maybe 20 ft lbs? Probably less. I probably have a rebuild of that diff
in my future, but I fear the cost of parts. I certainly don't want to do
it if I'm not going to get much better lockup. Gotta keep the parts
stock to satisfy Solo II stock class regs.
thanks for the input.
-Mike Leary
87 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser)
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Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 11:46:01 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson
To: ml36@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Diffs
Hi Mike, my diff like i said is very tight. When turning one rear wheel
you can only hold the other wheel for about one revolution before the
clutch pack locks up and both wheels turn, you definitely can't stop or
even slow the other wheel but I've only done this by hand and don't have
any torque figures on the effort required to overcome the LSD. When
driving if one wheel is spinning both are spinning, when we first put the
diff in we did a series of hard launches with one wheel in the dirt and
one on the tar to see how much slippage the diff had and the car either
bogged down or both wheels lit up. The guy I bought it off had just had
it rebuilt and apparently just had the clutch pack tightened and only
used stock parts so your problem should be easy to fix. Hope this was
some help.
Cheers
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
On Wed, 1 May 1996 ml36@cornell.edu wrote:
>
> On Wed, 1 May 1996, Justin Simpson wrote:
>
> > I have the 85/86 LSD rear end in my RA 23 Celica (took some work but it
> > was worth it). The LSD is as tight as and churps big time when reversing.
>
> Justin-
> I recently swapped the standard (non-LSD) rear in my corolla GTS for an
> '85 LSD rear from a junkyard, and mine is definitely not very tight.
> Switching to Red Line 75W-90NS oil helped a bunch, but it still seems
> looser than I expected, and I still get lots of wheelspin on the inside
> rear while accelerating out of corners in Solo II. My question to you
> is, can you give me some kind of estimate of the tightness I should
> expect from the stock diff? Either something seat of the pants like how
> hard is it to turn one rear wheel with the other one held, or a torque
> number if you can measure it easily. I can feel resistance when I turn
> one rear wheel with the other on the ground, but its not what I would
> call difficult to turn. I've lost my torque wrench and haven't replaced
> it yet, so its hard for me to put a more quantitative number on it.
> Maybe 20 ft lbs? Probably less. I probably have a rebuild of that diff
> in my future, but I fear the cost of parts. I certainly don't want to do
> it if I'm not going to get much better lockup. Gotta keep the parts
> stock to satisfy Solo II stock class regs.
>
> thanks for the input.
>
> -Mike Leary
> 87 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser)
>
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Date: 02 May 96 07:54:11 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: Dave Abitol ,
Subject: All's well that ends well...
As you all know, I have had the error code 52 hampering my
fun for the past week. As of last night, I finally fixed the problem.
I went to Supra Dave;)'s shop and we began to poke around.
It seems that the knock sensor from his 87 Supra Turbo fits
directly into the MR2 MKII Turbo. All fixed, no problem. Once
again I'm getting my boost fix with a smile 8^). The only problem
now is that my Speedo stopped working. Hmm..... Is this
really a problem?? ;-)
Later
Larry S
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Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 12:29:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott Davis
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 286 CPU's
Alright, I know this falls under techno-addiction, but as I was riding
around my school, I saw the chem department dumping old 286 machines into
their dummpster. Immediately, the only thing I could think about was
"hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind
of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display
for it? (CRT is way too big and bulky, not to mention heavy.)
Of course, after about twenty minutes of thinking, I finally
wondered what I would do with it in the car, anyways. But it would
be too cool of an idea to pass up, so I am passing it out to all of you
out there... If you had a computer in your car, what would you
want it to do, and what sensors would be needed to do this (I have a
1980, so no stock sensors of virtually any kind).
It has ocurred to me to have water temp, oil temp, lateral G, mpg
readings, accelleration, brake temp, exhaust temp, knock sensor, and
whatever else I can find and write code for. That way, I would be able
to monitor the averages, and know when something is going awry... All of
these values would be stored and used for comparison, if needed... Kinda
like the black box on an airplane...
This information could possibly be displayed by way of HUD, if
brought to that extent, but a normal readout would be perfectly adequate.
Any ideas and or feedback would be appreciated.
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: Scott Davis
Cc: supras ,
From: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC
Date: 2 May 96 13:53:29 EDT
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
I've already been playing around with this idea.....The only problem using a
286 or such board is the power consumption. These beasts, especially the older
ones, SUCK juice. They didn't really care how much, you were plugged into a
wall outlet. But in a car, you need to be concerned about this. Plus, the old
286 motherboards were quite large...I don't know about the rest of you, but I
couldn't find a good place in my MKIV to put it...then worry about heat
dissipation too.
Your idea for this project is excellent! As a matter of fact, I've already
begun this.(I believe I posted about it on the Supra mailing list) THe board
I'm using I've gotten down to 4" x 4" and that supplies everything but the
sensors and uses......hmmm...don't remember the exact power requirement but
it's VERY VERY low...
To: supras @ vicor.com @ INTERNET
cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET, Toyota @
btoy1.rochester.NY.US @ INTERNET (bcc: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC)
From: ssdavis1 @ students.uiuc.edu (Scott Davis) @ INTERNET
Date: 05/02/96 12:29:54 PM
Subject: 286 CPU's
Alright, I know this falls under techno-addiction, but as I was riding
around my school, I saw the chem department dumping old 286 machines into
their dummpster. Immediately, the only thing I could think about was
"hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind
of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display
for it? (CRT is way too big and bulky, not to mention heavy.)
Of course, after about twenty minutes of thinking, I finally
wondered what I would do with it in the car, anyways. But it would
be too cool of an idea to pass up, so I am passing it out to all of you
out there... If you had a computer in your car, what would you
want it to do, and what sensors would be needed to do this (I have a
1980, so no stock sensors of virtually any kind).
It has ocurred to me to have water temp, oil temp, lateral G, mpg
readings, accelleration, brake temp, exhaust temp, knock sensor, and
whatever else I can find and write code for. That way, I would be able
to monitor the averages, and know when something is going awry... All of
these values would be stored and used for comparison, if needed... Kinda
like the black box on an airplane...
This information could possibly be displayed by way of HUD, if
brought to that extent, but a normal readout would be perfectly adequate.
Any ideas and or feedback would be appreciated.
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1
<---------------------------------------------------------------------------->
For info, email with subject "help" to toyota-request@btoy1.rochester.ny.us
To unsubscribe, email with subject "unsubscribe" to:
toyota-request@btoy1.rochester.ny.us
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 21:10:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott Davis
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 286 CPU's
> > If I had a old, heavy '286 and monitor in my Supra.......I would heave it out
> > the window and reduce the car's weight! The computer inside the ECU
> > is more powerful than a "brain-dead" '286!
>
> Actually... you may be suprised, most pre-90's ECU's are real simple,
> power wise.. a 10 MHz 80286 would be a lot faster.... scary but
> true..
Well, it is a 12 MHz board, with a 286 chip and what looks like 4 megs of
RAM. Nice deal- brand new out of the box. 30 pin SIMM's... (cheap as
dirt) 16 bit operation... From a PC AT circa mid 80's or so... Good
setup I think- more than enough computing power for what I could think of
doing. And it was free. *grin*
I would like to know how to make a good set of input/output board
connections for it. Any suggestions on how too hook it up? I think I
read somewhere that it has a current draw of between 2.6 and 5 amps. I
don't know the voltage requirements, though... Anyone got this info? I
plan to mount it in the glove with a cooling fan.
As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built
nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very
large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic
box and no problem.
Can anyone resolve the input/output mess, though? I would like
to know how to get the data into and out of the processor... Are there
any preferred display types?
Finally, other than the motherboard, what components do I need to
make it all work?
TIA
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1
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Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 12:55:39 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Cyberspace.com server?
Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error
everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple
days!
Dave
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cyberspace.com server?
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 17:01:50 -0400
From: Tom Julien
David Rees writes:
>Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error
>everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple
>days!
I'm terribly sorry guys and gals, but the Sprint link to our
internet provider (tach.net) went down two days ago. We and
Tachyon have been raising, ahem, holy hell with Sprint to
get us back on line, and find out why the failover circuit
never picked up. I think that Tachyon was so unimpressed
with Sprint's response to this catastrophe that they are
working a switchover to MCI. Chris and I hope this will
not result in more down time, and are also considering
other options.
Again, sincerest apologies for the interruption in service,
and thanks for your patience.
/*************************************************************
Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com
Engineering Unix Support Tel: 407-826-7685
Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL Fax: 407-826-1881
*************************************************************/
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 14:02:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jayson Entao
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
On Thu, 2 May 1996, Scott Davis wrote:
...
> dirt) 16 bit operation... From a PC AT circa mid 80's or so... Good
> setup I think- more than enough computing power for what I could think of
> doing. And it was free. *grin*
^^^^
Ah, the magic word. =)
> I would like to know how to make a good set of input/output board
> connections for it. Any suggestions on how too hook it up? I think I
I think a good place to look would be a J&D Microdevices
catalog. As I recall there's some stuff available for data/sensor
logging for lab work, like input boards and simple software to go with it.
> As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built
> nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very
> large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic
This is going to fit in your glovebox? Some of those old 286
cases were huge! Are you just going to use an inverter for a power
source?
> any preferred display types?
To save space and power, I was thinking along the lines of an old
plasma display you could cannibalize from an old laptop, along with its
controller...but then you might has well rig up that laptop for the data
logging system. Then as you add more screens you can duplicate the inside
of KITT from "Knight Rider"..heh...
-Jayson
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
|| Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / /
|| ||/// / / / / / / /
|| jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / /
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 14:15:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jayson Entao
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cyberspace.com server?
On Fri, 3 May 1996, David Rees wrote:
> Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error
> everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple
> days!
>
I've been able to connect to it. The list is up, just a bit
quiet... and like you, I haven't gotten messages until like a couple
minutes ago. The last two times, and just now, they came in bursts of 3
or 4. Weird.
-Jayson
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
|| Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / /
|| ||/// / / / / / / /
|| jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / /
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
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Subject: Transmission Rebuild?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 15:52:45 -0600 (CDT)
From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One)
Forwarded message:
I finally got my Celica running. (86 GT-S)
Now it feels like the synchro's out in 2nd gear.
A big crunch on upshift, can't downshift without double-clutch.
My Haynes manual seems to think I'm not ready for transmission work. It
does give the diagrams of how the thing goes together, though.
What's everyone's experience with this transmission? Should I go with
rebuilt or new or junkyard or rebuild her myself? I've taken the
transmission out several times in my motor rebuilding so I know I can do
that much.
Please help, the 1st to 3rd shift is embarassing me at the stoplight.
Obmod: Where can I find a header for this car? Muffler recommendations?
m.r
--
"One might reasonably assume the employees of a comic strip would
have some sense of humor, puny and plebian though it may be."
POGO's Porky Pine, 1948 (Walt Kelly)
***********************mrages@umr.edu (Mark Rages)****************************
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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL
Subject: tire pressure for Celicas
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 16:41:13 -0700 (PDT)
> >I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
> >change?
> >
> >Phil
>
> Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your
> understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire
> pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to
> 35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire
> pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling
> characteristics (eg, understeer)
>
> Dave
>
If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should
be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The
reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front
engined car, and the weight bias is more distributed to your front end
(I'm not sure about the exact distribution numbers though). As the
Celicas are front wheel drive cars, I do not see any predictable handling
characteristics by increasing understeering. The front wheels would have
less traction with increased understeering, which decreases handling. I
would personally put more pressure in the rear and decrease pressure in
the front tires, so that if loss of control occurs, the rear tires would
break loose first and I could power my way back with the fronts.
Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 19:56:56 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: ashley@oncomdis.on.ca (Ashley Preston)
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
For what they're worth, here are my thoughts on using a 286 in a car.
> As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built
>nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very
>large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic
>box and no problem.
> Can anyone resolve the input/output mess, though? I would like
>to know how to get the data into and out of the processor... Are there
>any preferred display types?
> Finally, other than the motherboard, what components do I need to
>make it all work?
The stock 286 power supply will have to go. Remember, it runs on 115VAC.
Obviously, +12VDC is readily available in a car (although I wouldn't
consider it very clean), +5VDC could be easily obtained by regulating the
+12VDC with linear (or switching) regulators. -12VDC is a bit more of a
challenge, although I'm not sure that 286 motherboards use it. It may only
exist for plug-in cards. In any case, you'll need a switcher for -12VDC.
National Semiconductor has a line of 'Simple Switchers'. You may be able to
talk a sample kit complete with components if you or someone else is in the
industry.
The simplest I/O (Input/Output) available on a PC would be through the
peripherals built into a multi I/O card. This includes a few bits of
parallel I/O in the form of the printer (parallel) port. The handshake
lines on a serial port can be used, but these tend to have a -12V to +12V
range, although they may work at 0V and +5V in a pinch. Also,
potentiometers inputs can be interfaced through the joystick ports. Note:
the joystick port will only work if connected to a potentiometer. It
unfortunately can't be connected to an analog input. Another option, as
someone else has already mentioned, are plug-in I/O boards available from
several suppliers.
You could get data out of the processor using seven segment displays or LED
bar graphs etc. This would get away from having to use a heavy monitor
(that also requires 115VAC). You could plug the monitor and keyboard in
when setting up/maintaining the computer, but otherwise operate without it.
If putting a computer in your car is a serious endeavour, you may want to
see if you can get your hands on a development system. A Motorola
M68HC16Z1EVB would make a great automotive based computer. It is a single
board computer with built in parallel I/O, serial port, and has analog input
capabilities. The processor is capable of some quite complicated timing
functions such as are used in spark timing and injector timing. It may be
hard to find one unless you or someone you know works in the electronics
industry.
I'd be interested with working with anybody who like to put a custom
computer in their car. I have a small supply of parts that could be used
for such a purpose, eg. swithing regulator ICs, seven segment displays,
analog to digital convertors etc. in addition to access to all the design
tools necessary for designing and building circuit boards.
Let me know what you think.
Ashley P.
81 Celica
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Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 17:15:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: "Supras (postings)"
Many of these topics are also discussed on the "DIY EFI" list. See below
for more info.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
----------
================================================================
Do - It - Yourself Electronic Fuel Injection
================================================================
To subscribe: Send "subscribe DIY_EFI [address]" to
Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu. The request
must be in the body of the message; *not* the subject line.
For help: Send "help" to Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu.
To post: Send to "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
Charter: (subject to change)
This mailing-list is *strictly* dedicated to the discussion
of topics related to EFI design and modification. I would like
to see discussion on control algorithms, hardware, electronics,
and sensor/sensor-interface designs. Additionally, modification
and adaptations of OEM ECU's would also be welcomed.
This list is temporary, and its continuance depends on the
level of participation of its readers.
John S. Gwynne
WWW sites:
diy_efi http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi
http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/~aden/web-docs/efi332/332_index.html
Other related sites:
http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/
http://spbted.gtri.gatech.edu:80/hpe/hpe.html
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 21:24:39 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: FS: Simpson 3" 5-point belts, w/cam lock, Y-shoulder, $100.
OK everyone, spring is here and it's time to clean out my garage - and I'm
serious. The first thing to go - the Simpson belts. 3" red and black belts,
5-point cam lock, un-opened submarine belt, Y-shoulder (single point
mounting point) belt. Paid over $200 new from Simpson, just want to sell it
to a needy racer. $100 (shipping included, prepaid money order).
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: tire pressure for Celicas
To: micky@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (MICKY THUTIYAKUL)
Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 02:02:47 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> > >I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
> > >change?
> > >
> > >Phil
> >
> > Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your
> > understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire
> > pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to
> > 35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire
> > pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling
> > characteristics (eg, understeer)
> >
> > Dave
> >
>
> If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should
> be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The
> reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front
> engined car, and the weight bias is more distributed to your front end
> (I'm not sure about the exact distribution numbers though). As the
> Celicas are front wheel drive cars, I do not see any predictable handling
> characteristics by increasing understeering. The front wheels would have
> less traction with increased understeering, which decreases handling. I
> would personally put more pressure in the rear and decrease pressure in
> the front tires, so that if loss of control occurs, the rear tires would
> break loose first and I could power my way back with the fronts.
>
> Later,
> Micky
> '89 SC MR2
>
According to the handling books I have and the SCCA rule book handling
guide, increasing tire pressure increases grip and decreasing tire pressure
decreases grip. So for less understeer (more oversteer), you'd want to have
more pressure in the front and less in the rear.
Aly
'85 MR2
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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 02:43:44 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: robmach@aye.net (Robin Mach)
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
>"hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind
>of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display
>for it?
>
Being a severe techno-weenie myself, I'll stab at a few answers for you.
Some of the other folks are quite right about power consumption as far as
computers go. However, even a dinosaur motherboard is gonna eat less watts
than a halogen headlight. Your voltage requirements are going to be +12v (
thats a no brainer in a car ), +5v ( almost as easy as +12 ), -12v and -5v
which can supplied by a little electronic inverter without too much problem.
Displays are no big problem either, although you will have to be capable of
a little techno-hackery to pull it off. I am looking at an LCD graphic
display right now in a catalog ( details in a minute ) which can give you
the display capability of the top half of an average computer screen for
$32.95 There are a wide range of other displays available in the same
catalog for lower prices and resolutions. The same catalog offers an 8
channel A/D converter that works through a parallel port ( printer port )
for $79.95. Getting digital type information in and out can be handled any
number of ways, none of which are too complicated.
If you're serious about the idea, you can pick up a 386 motherboard,
small footprint, low low power consumption for about $50.00 basically on the
street corner.
The above referenced goodies, along with all kinds of other neat
elec-tech stuff, can be found in the catalog from:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.
P.O.B. 12685
Lake Park, FL 33403-0685
Voice 407-848-8236
Fax 800-432-9937
If nothing else this catalog is just a scream to look through. Another good
source would be Nuts & Volts magazine and Circuit Cellar Inc. You'll have
to track those down on your own though, as I don't have the info at hand for
them.
Lots of luck and keep us all posted on how it goes.
Robin
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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 11:58:36 +0200
To:
From: Chris Orasch
Subject: Brake Fluid
Hy everyone!!
I want to change the brake fluid on my 91MR2 but I'm not sure which fluid I
should use.
Does anyone know the Castrol SuperDisc DOT5.1? I don't know if it's silicone
based or not (it doesn't say anything about this on the bottle).
The other option would be the MultiFlux DOT4.
Any suggestions are welcome!
BTW, how much fluid do I need for a complete change?
Chris
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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 08:34:48 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock?
I have been hearing that a straight pipe is the way to go with the '91Turbo
MR2 - your bottom end will suffer, but the faster the exhaust can escape,
the faster the turbo can spool up - sound right? Anyway, has anyone seen a
straight pipe that goes from the front cat back to the stock muffler
locatiosn? That would come out of the cat, then split off to a Y, and come
out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much
better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but
performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes
(maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order?
Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide.
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 10:18:49 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford)
Subject: Re: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock?
Steve,
J.C. Whitney-- 312-431-6102 (p.182, my catalog) has straight pipe stainless
T304 in 3, 5, & 8' ft. lengths, all diams. from 2 to 3". Also
non-stainless tubing.
Monte
>I have been hearing that a straight pipe is the way to go with the '91Turbo
>MR2 - your bottom end will suffer, but the faster the exhaust can escape,
>the faster the turbo can spool up - sound right? Anyway, has anyone seen a
>straight pipe that goes from the front cat back to the stock muffler
>locatiosn? That would come out of the cat, then split off to a Y, and come
>out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much
>better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but
>performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes
>(maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order?
>
>Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide.
>
>Steve B.
>
>bagdon@rust.net
>http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
>Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
>-----------
>'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
>'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
>Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 14:27:57 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
At 11:58 AM 5/4/96 +0200, Chris Orasch wrote:
>Hy everyone!!
>
>I want to change the brake fluid on my 91MR2 but I'm not sure which fluid I
>should use.
>Does anyone know the Castrol SuperDisc DOT5.1? I don't know if it's silicone
>based or not (it doesn't say anything about this on the bottle).
>The other option would be the MultiFlux DOT4.
>Any suggestions are welcome!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol
Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb
water, virtually eliminating the need to change brake fluid in the future.
However, the drawback is that you need to COMPLETELY remove all traces of
your existing brake fluid, a major pain in the arse. The silicone based
brake fluids also tend to be slightly spongier as well as tougher to bleed
(not to mention more expensive!) I think that a DOT4 brake fluid would be a
better choice.
Dave
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Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 15:07:57 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Weak side mirrors
Hi! I was wondering if anyone else had this same problem and had any ideas
on how to fix it on my '81 Celica. Well, what happens is that when I start
going fast,(over 80mph) the side mirrors can't take the force from the wind
and move in, so that I can't see anything. I want new mirrors, but
something more substantial than the stock ones. Does any know if there are
mirrors from a different Toyota that will bolt on? Thanks, Dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 20:59:47 -0700
From: Joe Ernst
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Canel Subscription
Please cancel my subscription to this mailing list.
Thank You,
Joe Ernst
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 06:50:38 EDT
From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire pressure for Celicas
> If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should
be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The
reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front <
*************************************************************************
This is NOT correct. Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
Therefore, to reduce understeer, you must pump up
the fronts to increase their grip and/or reduce the rear pressure to
decrease their grip. This is a well-known autocross trick that actually
makes quite a bit of difference in the balance of the car. Just remember
that changing your pressures in this manner will wear out the middles or
your front tires and the edges of your rears.
Christopher T. Berchin
1988 MR2, fresh off the autocross course
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 08:47:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carey P Morris
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Carey P. Morris
Location : St. Louis, MO (O'Fallon)
Model : '87 Supra Turbo
Engine : 7MGTE
Mods : K&N Intake, HKS 75mm Exhaust (on order), HKS EVC III (not yet
installed)
email : cm7899@cec.wustl.edu
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 08:54:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carey P Morris
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: EVC III installation
I asked this question on the supras list but didn't get a response.
Maybe I should have asked here instead. Anyway...
I have an '87 Supra Turbo that I'm installing the EVC III on. The
installation instructions were a bit generic and I was looking for some
first hand info to guide me with the non-electrical part. Specifically,
placement inside the engine comparment and exactly which hoses to hook
into and where...etc.
I would just feel better about this with some first hand experience
guiding me or offering tips.
Thanks
Carey
'87 Supra Turbo
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:02:57 -0400
From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 3.0 Liter V6 Head Gasket Problems
I have heard from may sources that the 1990 to about 1993 3.0L V6 engines
whether used in the truck or 4-Runner (I have the 4-Runner) has a bad head
gasket design. I have talked to 2 people that this has happened to and they
indicated that the pass thru in the head gasket for the water jacket does not
have enough material and this is where it goes. And when it goes it dumps
coolant into the cylinder (I have heard number 6 and then again I have heard
number 1). I have been told that Toyota has since redesigned the head gasket
fixing the problem but is not issuing a recall for obvious warranty reasons.
I first learned about it from talking to a guy who was picking his up from the
dealer after having both head gaskets replaced to the tune of about $1200.
Needless to say he said he was going to sue them over it. When I confronted
the local dealer trying to find out what I could about the problem, of course
they didn't own up to anything but saying it could happen, and that it probably
would one day and that I should start saving my pennies now. Their response
thourghly pissed me off!
I have since heard via the net of Toyota on the west coast paying for the head
gasket replacement where here on the east coast, nobody at Toyota wants to own
up to anything. Does anyone know more about this problem, any recourse with
Toyota or should I go ahead and replace them (i.e. get them before they get me)
I really do not want to be stranded on a trip or anything should this happen.
The mere fact that Toyota redesigned the head gasket tells me they identified a
design flaw and corrected it. But the poor guys out there who still have the
flaw have to wait. Here in NC they also tell me that they know of engines in
excess of 150K miles that have not had the problem and that I should wait and
see if it really is a problem. I personally think they are trying to blow
sunshine up ther publics but myself.
Any knowledge of this or opinions?
Steve
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 09:07:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: Lance Heinrich
Subject: Re: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock?
To: S and K Bagdon
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Steve,
I've seen one... it's on my MR2. Unfortunately, it doesn't meet all your
criteria, specifically, it was custom manufactured by a local race car
fabricator :-( Has nice stainless tips, all mandrel bent bends, etc.
The only giveaway that its not stock is that the left side (driver's
side) pipe has most of the black soot in it, very little on the other one.
Lance.
---------------------------------------------------------------
| Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
| lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
|
| 1991 MR2 Turbo
| Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged
On Sat, 4 May 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote:
> out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much
> better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but
> performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes
> (maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order?
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL
Subject: Re: tire pressure for Celicas
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 09:44:18 -0700 (PDT)
> This is NOT correct. Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
> Therefore, to reduce understeer, you must pump up
> the fronts to increase their grip and/or reduce the rear pressure to
> decrease their grip. This is a well-known autocross trick that actually
> makes quite a bit of difference in the balance of the car. Just remember
> that changing your pressures in this manner will wear out the middles or
> your front tires and the edges of your rears.
>
> Christopher T. Berchin
> 1988 MR2, fresh off the autocross course
> Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
>
From the responses to this I figure I must be wrong. Not being an
autocrosser myself, I admit that I have not read many books on the
subject and do not do too many successive quickturns required by the
sport. But based on my own experiences with tire pressures, my front
tires squeal alot less at the limit with lower pressures up front than in
the rear. High speed lane changes also feel more positive requiring less
steering input. I really don't have a bias towards any pressure setup,
but after a lot of experimenting, this was my conclusion. Is this all
psychological or what? The most I've ever runned with was 35 psi in the
fronts and and rear. Felt a little bouncy around the corners, so I never
upped it any higher. But if it'll make me take corners faster, I'm
willing to try :)
Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2
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Date: 06 May 96 12:55:08 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: "Steve B."
Cc: Geoff ,
Subject: Hesitation (fuel cut?)
Hello all,
Once again I'm looking for advice from you, my trusted technical advisors. ;-)
I have a slight (I hope) problem. I have the boost set at about 1 bar. As you
all know, when you are at WOT in third & fourth (fifth doesn't come into play
in the quarted mile yet...) the boost will spike (thanks to a manual controller)
a little past the actual setting. Well, when I spike, it feels like I'm
triggering
the fuel cut for a split second. I don't get any lights, and after the spike
settles
all is OK, but it's hampering my performance. I was at Long Island Dragway
yesterday, and my best MPH was only 95.998. I have has MPH as high as
100.09 at my current stage of modification. What could be causing this?
The only thing that I can think of is that perhaps the Supra knock sensor *is*
a little different than the MR2 and it's off a little with the timing? Any
questions/
comments will be greatly appreciated. As you all know, you can reach me at:
103617.1033@compuserve.com
Thanks for the help,
Larry S.
P.S. Cal, you are the newest addition to my problem mailing list. I hope you
don't
mind too much ;-)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Transmission Rebuild?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 12:30:43 -0600 (CDT)
From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One)
Forwarded message:
> From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Fri May 3 16:44:42 1996
> Message-Id: <199605032052.PAA02639@saucer.cc.umr.edu>
> Subject: Transmission Rebuild?
> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 15:52:45 -0600 (CDT)
> From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One)
> X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL20]
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
> Precedence: bulk
I, mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One), quote myself:
>
> Now it feels like the synchro's out in 2nd gear.
> A big crunch on upshift, can't downshift without double-clutch.
>
> My Haynes manual seems to think I'm not ready for transmission work. It
> does give the diagrams of how the thing goes together, though.
I got one response (thanks, Dirk) suggesting that 2nd gear synchros are
prone to go on this car (86 Cel GT-S). This would incline me away from
the junkyard option. Is there a place that might sell a high-performance,
better-than-stock type of synchro? 'Cause there's going to be some
stoplight action in this car's future, with hard shifts into 2nd.
Thanks. and sorry for following up my own request.
m.r.
--
"One might reasonably assume the employees of a comic strip would
have some sense of humor, puny and plebian though it may be."
POGO's Porky Pine, 1948 (Walt Kelly)
***********************mrages@umr.edu (Mark Rages)****************************
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Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 11:41:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora
Subject: Am I mad?? (probably!! ; )
To: Chris Myer ,
Well, I'm about to plunge into somethings I've ALWAYS wanted to do .. but I
thought I'd ask for some opinions first.
I've found a guy who prepares RX3 race cars. He's got an '87 MR2 burnt out
shell. It's been stripped and stored ... basically covered in light surface
rust ... nothing serious. the roof was slightly damaged when the car was
removed after the fire. The guy has bought a brand new roof for it - it's
still in the box. He paid $1000 (US$680) for it and $300 (US$200) for the
new roof .. he just wants $300 (US$200) to cover the roof cost ... basically
... he wants to get rid of it cos he loves rotaries more : )
He had the whole thing planned out to turn it into a race car .. so has LOTS
of great ideas .... including templates made up for camber plates .... roll
cage all worked out .. etc etc.
What the car needs:
interior, seats, harnesses, engine/wiring loom/computer, trans including
gear linkages to gear knob, fuel tank, doors, boot lid, paint job, rear
bumper/lights, windows, wheels/tyres, shocks, all plastic rubber, radiator
Ok .. what I have and how to replace these above things:
- Interior ... he's sourced a wrecked SC car and had arranged to buy all he
needed of this car .. i'd use the SCer brakes too .. they're bigger.
- Seats and harnesses .. buy new race ones
- Engine/wiring loom/computer/trans including gear linages to gear knob. I
HAVE ALL THIS!! Woo hoo ... I bought basically the whole engine etc from a
wrecked mr2 and have been rebuilding it. I though i could do up the head
and keep it realatively normal and CHEAP to start with. Cost is a big
factor here .. so only cheap mods will be made to start with ... air filter,
exhaust ... port/polish .. any other ideas? Once money is more abundant ..
either fully do the head .. cams, carbs etc .. or put in a 4AGZE.
- Fuel tank - buy from wrecked car
- Doors - buy from wrecked car
- boot lid/rear bumpers . can mold these in fibreglass using my own car as
a model (will just come out smelling of resin for a coupld of days)
- rear lights - buy off wrecked car
- windows - windscreen off wrecked car .. or new .... other windows
perspex.
- shocks - hey, i knew i bought those TRD shocks and race springs for
something .. they'll do til I can afford a REAL serious race setup ... i'll
see how it goes. : )
- all rubbers, bushes etc - off wrecked cars .. new bushes (poly) all
round
- wheels/tyres ... new.
- radiator .. off wrecked car
Also need to do:
FIRST: seam weld it .. put new roof on .. sand blast .. acid dip ... primer
.. paint. I can primer and paint it.
full roll cage
So... do ya think i'm mad?
I reacon .... being careful and starting out cheap to start with (using
basically stock engine etc) i can get it on the track for US$6,800
(NZ$10,000). THis is TRACK racing BTW .. not autocrossing. this will NOT
be a road car .. however ... i might want to drive it to the track cos i've
got nothing to tow it with!! ; )
Later
Mad Ade
'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2"
'87 Race MR2???
AdeM@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:52:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> [deleted]
> Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
> [deleted]
>
The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 17:49:01 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
>The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
>autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
>the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
Yes, this is true. Personnally I run 38psi front and 39psi rear on my car on
the track. I only use these tires for autocross so that's where I leave them,
but my street tires are 32 psi. Chris' point was that it's possible to
increase grip to a certain point, then it stops to fall off (so don't inflate
those babies to 60 psi and expect it to help!!!) :)
BTW, in autocross if I run any less PSI than this I start rolling the tire
down onto the sidewall where there is no grip. On the street you don't put
the same forces into the tire as on the track (well, I do sometimes...).
I run my Probe GT at 28 front and 24 rear, so it's all up to you and the
ride quality and handling you want, depending on your car, the setup, the
weight distribution, springs, etc. etc.
Dave A.
*** Forwarding note from I1742083--IBMMAIL 05/06/96 16:13 ***
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:52:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> [deleted]
> Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
> [deleted]
>
The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 15:39:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Seeley
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
David Rees wrote:
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol
> Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb
You are wrong :-) DOT5 is silicone based, but DOT5.1 is not.
To answer the posters original question, I use the following in my '91 MR2t:
Motul racing brake fluid 600, DOT 4, 100% synthetic fluid, 585(F)/307(C)
boiling point.
Geoff
'91MT2t, 172,000km
http://mr2.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 15:59:34 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
>Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
>> [deleted]
>> Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
>> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
>> [deleted]
>>
>The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
>autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
>the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
>
>Phil
The maximum COLD infatable pressure is 35psi. The temps can easily climb
into the 40-45 psi range while driving. I'm not sure if they mean 40-45
cold or warm though. Tire manufactureres usually build a margin of saftey
into their tires, especially high performance tires. You probably could run
up to 40 psi cold pressures without a problem on the track. Correct me if
I'm wrong though!!! Don't want to cause a tire blowout!
Dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 16:28:10 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
>From: Geoff Seeley
>David Rees wrote:
>
>> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol
>> Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb
>
>You are wrong :-) DOT5 is silicone based, but DOT5.1 is not.
>
>To answer the posters original question, I use the following in my '91 MR2t:
>
>Motul racing brake fluid 600, DOT 4, 100% synthetic fluid, 585(F)/307(C)
>boiling point.
>
>Geoff
I thought I could be, do you know if you have to be as careful with cleaning
out your brake system with DOT5.1 as you do with DOT5? (I still think DOT4
is one of the best way to go...)
dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 07 May 1996 07:07:47 EDT
From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire Pressure
> The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct? <
That is correct. I drive to the local events with the air already in
the tires and feel every pebble on the street. The car is quite
responsive, however, almost hyperactive. Then I bleed them down for
the ride home.
Christopher T. Berchin
1988 MR2
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 07 May 1996 09:25:00 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tires (autocross)
Just wondering, does anyone have a set of good autocross tires they want
to get rid of? I'm thinking Yokohama A008RSII or BFG R1, size 185/60R14.
They don't need to be "like new," but "no cords" would be nice...
:)
Thanks!
..............
Dave A.
1986 MR2s, one green, one silver
daucott@e-mail.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 11:00:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: An-Hong Chien
To: Raikkonen Timo
Cc: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list"
Subject: RE: converting *TC to 2TG (and big bore = 2 liter)
hi there.....u guys were talking about porting. i have a 1987 mr2 and
want more power. i was wondering how much porting would cost me and
where i can get itdone. thanks in advance
dave
On Tue, 7 May 1996, Raikkonen Timo wrote:
>
> Hello Monte!
>
> MONTE:
> Please tell me if this is correct:
>
> In the 2TG, the two timing gears are both contained inside the head, so
> that if I buy a *complete* head, the gears should be there.
>
> Is the chain tensioner also in the head?
>
> The 2TG has lower compression pistons, hmmmm. Then I'd have to buy
> a new set of pistons to get high compression (somewhere around 11:1).
> Hmmm.
>
> TIMO:
> The 2T-Gxx head's are good heads flowing 140-150hp in stock form
> and with porting they flow 200-215hp (stock valves) - I have done it :).
> In comparison 2T head flows in stock form about 90-100hp and with
> porting about 150hp (this isn't as exact informatiion as above in 2T-Gxx
> case - ecxactly 2T-GEU with xxxxx251 head). Older twincam heads are
> Toyota heads and have xxxxx222 or something else xxxxx2xx code -
> the 222 head is with bigger valves and is the latest Toyota head. Then
> came Yamaha heads ( and they all had bigger valves - don't remmeber
> the size). Yamaha heads were also a lot better design than Toyota
> heads. Yamaha heads are called xxxxxx250 or 251 (I had 251 - don't
> know what is the difference between 250 or 251). U can also differ
> Toyota head from Yamaha head by looking the front of the head and
> the elliptical cover plate - in Toyota head the plate is in horisontal
> position and in Yamaha head it's rotated to the left a little (some 20
> degree). 18-RG heads also has tilted cover plate in the front of the
> head - don't mess these look for the code I mentioned above, and
> usually there are labels on this cover witch head is in case.
>
> The complete head should keep inside cams, gears (and small pins
> to keep them locked to the cam), chain tensioner (it's in the front left of
> the head pointing to the direction where distributor is), valve cover and
> oil fill cap. Then need that chain that is also available cheaply in
> stores - if u have old chain as model u can go and get stock chain the
> same size to replace teh old one - I recommend to do this. Then u shoulg
> get the short cam that should have thesetwo gearas attached - check the
> gears for cracked "teeths" (in case somebody has dropped them -
> otherwise they last long :).
>
> "Newer" 2T-GEU "smock"-engines from '80 had 8.4 compression and
> older 9.4 to 9.8 and 10.1 at least to my memory... u could check these out.
>
> This 8.4 2T-GEU is "good" for turbo charging - as I did :) It could handle
> the mild boost (0.5 bar or even more) quite well, but if going further (ie.
> 0.9
> bar) swap to forced pistons like VW Beetle (Mahle or Shima).
>
> MONTE:
> Do you have any experience with the 3TC connecting rods. If so, do you
> think that 3TC connecting rods are up to the demands of a 2 litre/200 hp
> version of a 2TG? Do you think this bottom would reliably handle 220-225
> hp if turbo-charged? My use is enthusiastic street driving.
>
> Thanks very much for your reply.
>
> Monte
>
> TIMO:
> Yes I have built from 2T-GEU a turbo charged a bit over 2 liter engine. I
> used 3T connection rods and VW 90.5 pistons (take the short ones -
> meaning that the diameter from wrist pin to the top of the piston should
> be specific depending what compression u want - this way has been
> built turbo & non turbo "big bore" 2TG engines with succes).
>
> The block and base engine was from '82 Celica GT. The block take
> this 5.5mm bore very well and is still in one peace after many years
> of hard driving - older blocks though has been damaged when trying
> to bore so... The VW pistons should be fitted so that the arrow points
> to the flywheel becouse VW engines rotates to the opposite way as
> 2TG and others inline 4's etc. (this is if u have pistons that have wrist
> pins that are not in the center of the piston). U also have to make/
> allow the wrist pin to move in the pin (in stock VW piston it's not
> moving) becouse the connection rod in 2TG is pressure fitted in the
> wrist pin. This operation will work - done that :) The piston doesn't
> require any machining when bulding a turbo engine with "flat" VW
> pistons and stock cams.
>
> Stock head gasget is good to 1.0 bar above that steel gagsget is
> needed ( I haven't found steel gasget for 2TG with 90.5 bore =(.
>
> The 3T connecting rods are the same as 2T or 2TG, only the pistons
> and crankshaft is different - so u need only crank and VW pistons to
> build a big bore 2TG. 3T crank is heavy compared to 2TG crank but
> will rew like hell in this big bore 2TG... :) The botomend will take with
> stock bearings easily 200-300hp if not rewwed very high - this will
> kill bearings. I had in my big bore 2T-GE turbo stock bearings and
> some 250hp and it was all season street car.
>
> -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi)
>
> PS. Other 2TG dudes here can correct this if necessary and add
> comments for your benefit.
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 12:29:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Seeley
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
David Rees wrote:
> I thought I could be, do you know if you have to be as careful with cleaning
> out your brake system with DOT5.1 as you do with DOT5? (I still think DOT4
> is one of the best way to go...)
I seem to remember reading that DOT5.1 is compatible/mixable with DOT3/4...
(Wish I had saved those postings to rec.autos.* now...)
I would try DOT5.1 if I could find it here, but DOT4 is good enough. I think
DOT5 should only be used in racing applications and in situations where
you might completely replace the brake line system (ie. classic car rebuild)
I also remember reading about the fact that DOT5 should NOT be used in ABS
systems...
Geoff
'91MR2t, 172,100km
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Raikkonen Timo
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list"
Subject: RE: converting *TC to 2TG (and big bore = 2 liter)
Date: Tue, 07 May 96 14:00:00 PDT
Hello Monte!
MONTE:
Please tell me if this is correct:
In the 2TG, the two timing gears are both contained inside the head, so
that if I buy a *complete* head, the gears should be there.
Is the chain tensioner also in the head?
The 2TG has lower compression pistons, hmmmm. Then I'd have to buy
a new set of pistons to get high compression (somewhere around 11:1).
Hmmm.
TIMO:
The 2T-Gxx head's are good heads flowing 140-150hp in stock form
and with porting they flow 200-215hp (stock valves) - I have done it :).
In comparison 2T head flows in stock form about 90-100hp and with
porting about 150hp (this isn't as exact informatiion as above in 2T-Gxx
case - ecxactly 2T-GEU with xxxxx251 head). Older twincam heads are
Toyota heads and have xxxxx222 or something else xxxxx2xx code -
the 222 head is with bigger valves and is the latest Toyota head. Then
came Yamaha heads ( and they all had bigger valves - don't remmeber
the size). Yamaha heads were also a lot better design than Toyota
heads. Yamaha heads are called xxxxxx250 or 251 (I had 251 - don't
know what is the difference between 250 or 251). U can also differ
Toyota head from Yamaha head by looking the front of the head and
the elliptical cover plate - in Toyota head the plate is in horisontal
position and in Yamaha head it's rotated to the left a little (some 20
degree). 18-RG heads also has tilted cover plate in the front of the
head - don't mess these look for the code I mentioned above, and
usually there are labels on this cover witch head is in case.
The complete head should keep inside cams, gears (and small pins
to keep them locked to the cam), chain tensioner (it's in the front left of
the head pointing to the direction where distributor is), valve cover and
oil fill cap. Then need that chain that is also available cheaply in
stores - if u have old chain as model u can go and get stock chain the
same size to replace teh old one - I recommend to do this. Then u shoulg
get the short cam that should have thesetwo gearas attached - check the
gears for cracked "teeths" (in case somebody has dropped them -
otherwise they last long :).
"Newer" 2T-GEU "smock"-engines from '80 had 8.4 compression and
older 9.4 to 9.8 and 10.1 at least to my memory... u could check these out.
This 8.4 2T-GEU is "good" for turbo charging - as I did :) It could handle
the mild boost (0.5 bar or even more) quite well, but if going further (ie.
0.9
bar) swap to forced pistons like VW Beetle (Mahle or Shima).
MONTE:
Do you have any experience with the 3TC connecting rods. If so, do you
think that 3TC connecting rods are up to the demands of a 2 litre/200 hp
version of a 2TG? Do you think this bottom would reliably handle 220-225
hp if turbo-charged? My use is enthusiastic street driving.
Thanks very much for your reply.
Monte
TIMO:
Yes I have built from 2T-GEU a turbo charged a bit over 2 liter engine. I
used 3T connection rods and VW 90.5 pistons (take the short ones -
meaning that the diameter from wrist pin to the top of the piston should
be specific depending what compression u want - this way has been
built turbo & non turbo "big bore" 2TG engines with succes).
The block and base engine was from '82 Celica GT. The block take
this 5.5mm bore very well and is still in one peace after many years
of hard driving - older blocks though has been damaged when trying
to bore so... The VW pistons should be fitted so that the arrow points
to the flywheel becouse VW engines rotates to the opposite way as
2TG and others inline 4's etc. (this is if u have pistons that have wrist
pins that are not in the center of the piston). U also have to make/
allow the wrist pin to move in the pin (in stock VW piston it's not
moving) becouse the connection rod in 2TG is pressure fitted in the
wrist pin. This operation will work - done that :) The piston doesn't
require any machining when bulding a turbo engine with "flat" VW
pistons and stock cams.
Stock head gasget is good to 1.0 bar above that steel gagsget is
needed ( I haven't found steel gasget for 2TG with 90.5 bore =(.
The 3T connecting rods are the same as 2T or 2TG, only the pistons
and crankshaft is different - so u need only crank and VW pistons to
build a big bore 2TG. 3T crank is heavy compared to 2TG crank but
will rew like hell in this big bore 2TG... :) The botomend will take with
stock bearings easily 200-300hp if not rewwed very high - this will
kill bearings. I had in my big bore 2T-GE turbo stock bearings and
some 250hp and it was all season street car.
-Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi)
PS. Other 2TG dudes here can correct this if necessary and add
comments for your benefit.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: 07 May 96 23:58:54 EDT
From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com>
To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c"
Subject: Air Flow Sensor
If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
smog though since I'm in CA.
Thanks for the Help,
Alex
91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: KipAnderso@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 00:11:57 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Crash!!!
Just a quick note to anybody who's not received a response from me in the
last few days.
I got to monkeying around with installing some new software and totally
crashed
Windows 95 in the process. Since my net programs (AOL excluded - phew!) are
all 32 bit,
I'm having to make do with what still works.
To make this appropriate to both lists, I must inform you all that I've
modified my MR2 by tying all of those crummy little Windows 95 disks to
strings that I will drag about town until there is nothing left.
Please direct all responses directly to me since I'm not subscribed to either
list from this account and may not be able to access the other account for
another week or more (my OS is a shambles).
Kip Anderson
kipanderso@aol.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 00:33:26 -0700
To: Alex Pun <75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
At 11:58 PM 5/7/96 EDT, Alex Pun wrote:
>If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
>have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
>smog though since I'm in CA.
>
>Thanks for the Help,
>
>Alex
>91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
Actually, if you removed the air flow sensor, your car wouldn't run. The
air filter kits just bolt up to the air flow sensor.
% Aric Shen %
% Speedline Racing Concepts %
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 %
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com %
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted %
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic %
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 07:24:43 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: Alex Pun <75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>
Cc: Toyota Modifications Server
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
Alex Pun wrote:
>
> If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
> have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
> smog though since I'm in CA.
>
> Thanks for the Help,
>
> Alex
> 91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
nope, you install any type of air filtration upgrade before the airflow meter. Without it, the engine won't
run (unless you have an HKS VPC of course). Also, changing the filter shouldn't affect anything that has to do
with your smog devices.
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'"
From: Tony York
Subject: Return of the juddering brakes !
Date: Wed, 08 May 96 07:28:41 PDT
Some of might remember that I had a problem with my steering being
stiff and my brakes juddering. Well I fixed the steering problem.
That was the UJ, but the juddering brakes are back. I don't think it
is the discs because they are new from Toyota (standard i'm afraid).
I have a new CV boot that I haven't fitted yet as I was told it was a
very time consuming job and I have been very busy lately.
Any ideas, please this is really starting to bug me ??
Tony York
1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS
Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour: White
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles: 101000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 08:35:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jayson Entao
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: NZ Endurance Race
Here's some interesting results from the South Island (NZ)
Endurance Championship, which was 3 three-hour races with a pit stop,
fuel fill and driver change...I ganked this from the honda list...
-----------------------------------
These are the results of the first race:
Place Laps Class Car
1) 163 C Chevy Lumina TranzAm 6 litre V8
2) 160 C Series 2 Mazda RX7 turbo
3) 155 C Ford Sierra RS 500 2litre turbo
4) 152 B BMW 2l touring car
5) 149 C Series 1 Mazda RX7 turbo
6) 148 A Honda CRX 1600 VTEC
7) 147 C Toyota MR2 turbo <---------Go Toyota!
8) 145 B Honda Integra 1800 vtec
9) 146 B Mazda RX7
10) 145 C Porsche 911sc
11) 145 A Toyota Starlet 1600 <---------Yeah! =)
12) 145 C Mitsubishi Lancer 1600 turbo
13) 144 A Toyota Corolla 1600
14) 144 A Toyota Truneo 1600
15) 141 A Honda Civic 1600 vtec
16) 141 B Toyota Celica 2000 6 cylinder
17) 141 A Toyota Starlet 1600
18) 140 A Nissan Sentra 1600
19) 138 C Holden Commodore 5L V8
20) 136 B Mazda RX3
21) 135 A '87 Honda Civic 1600 DOHC
22) 134 A Peugeot 106 1300
23) 129 B Datson 180 B
---------------------------------
-Jayson
Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Seeley
To: mr2-digest@validgh.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: G-Tech Pro Grou Purchase
*Please* reply to rsalerno@li.net if you are interested, I'm just forwarding
this for Russ... (I have nothing to do with this, other than ordering one for
myself :-)
---------- Begin Forwarded Message ----------
>From rsalerno@li.net Mon May 6 21:32:43 1996
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 00:14:50 -0400
To: Martin Scarr ,
Steve Hauswirth ,
Michael Gregory ,
Charles Baldridge ,
Micah Thompson ,
Robert Vautrain ,
Frank Szymkowski ,
Brad Davis , Chris Bonisa ,
Spiff , stratcat ,
Wayne Campbell , Mark Murphy ,
"Roger M. Corman" ,
Mike Goetz , BLTHEDE@INDYVAX.IUPUI.EDU,
Iceman@cris.com, Geoff Seeley ,
"Dink" , dan@rsinc.com,
Harg Tholan ,
Richard Moburg ,
Phil , Jan Ben ,
Michael Shawstad ,
Jack Marino , Perry ,
Gary Hoffman ,
Terry Hartman , Rune Ydstebo ,
Arya Behzad , Brandon
From: rsalerno@li.net (Russell Salerno)
Subject: G-Tech Pro Grou Purchase
I'm sending this to everyone who expressed an interest in the G-Tech... it
will be going out to the lists shortly. If you would like to get one at a
discount read on.
-Russ
--------------
If you wish to participate in the G-Tech Pro group purchase here are the
details. The purchase is open to members of the GN/T-Type list, F-Body
list, and Sy-Ty list.
1) We need to purchase a minimum of 12 units to qualify for the
group discount.
2) Price is $89.95 US, plus $10 to cover shipping and handling.
Total cost is $99.95 US.
3) Payment is in advance, in US dollars, by certified check or
US Postal Service money order ONLY. Other forms of payment
cannot be accepted and will be returned. Please do not ask
for exceptions.
4) Once we have a commitment for at least 12 units, everyone will
be asked to mail their payment to the coordinator (me I guess).
The coordinator will make a list of ship-to addresses, and
forward the list along with payment to Tesla Electronics.
Tesla will ship each unit directly to the recipient.
5) If, at the end of three weeks we cannot get commitments for at
least 12 units, the group purchase will likely be cancelled.
I've tried to outline everything so that there will be no confusion or
misunderstandings. If you want to participate, please send email to
rsalerno@li.net with the subject "G-Tech Group Purchase". Please include
your name, shipping address, day & evening home number, and quantity
desired.
That's it. If I've forgotten anything, or if you have any questions please
let me know.
-Russ Salerno
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Russ Salerno '89 Turbo T/A #907 rsalerno@li.net |
| finger for PGP key |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
----------- End Forwarded Message -----------
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 13:17:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora
Subject: RE: Wind deflectors
To: Toyota Mods
> The reason for the wind deflectors is to minimize the amount of "boom" in
the
> car at speed. By breaking up the air with the deflector the low frequency
> resonance (aka: boom) is reduced.
I get this boom on my '86 T-Top .... doesn't worry me if i wind my windows
down about 3/4".
Ade : )
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 17:39:50 -0400 (EDT)
To: Aric Shen
From: celica GT-R
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
i have the Gracer Airinx filter in my celica, which also has a mass air sensor, and all i needed was a little metal adapter for the MAF sensor to connect to the new filter, and then a gracer adapter that connects from the regular adapter(other filters fit onto the 1st adapter, but the Gracer Airinx needs another one-at least in my car) to the actual air filter. that is a hella good filter, but i'm currently trying a new one made up here in northern cali. it's the Weapon-R filter made by Revolutions Motorsports in Burlingame (near Frisco). i just picked it up to try it, and it's a very good copy(almost exact) of the greddy filter, and waaaaay cheaper. the regular weapon-R filter is only like 35-40 bucks and it comes in hella different colors. i might actually sell the gracer to a friend pretty soon because i like the new filter so much...obviously, i havent told him about weapon-R yet, heheh. it'll save ya some dinero so i would check it out, but wait a couple weeks when the!
"Airv
antage plus" comes out. this one is an exact duplicate of the greddy filter, with the cool mesh cage and all, but it's supposed to produce more hp...so in case you dont have it by then, i'll sell ya my filter in two weeks! call up REVolutions at (415)259-9REV and ask for Leo or Aaron...
>-) (asian smiley face)
antonio
celica GT-R
aponton@concentric.net
At 12:33 AM 5/8/96 -0700, you wrote:
>At 11:58 PM 5/7/96 EDT, Alex Pun wrote:
>>If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
>>have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
>>smog though since I'm in CA.
>>
>>Thanks for the Help,
>>
>>Alex
>>91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
>
>Actually, if you removed the air flow sensor, your car wouldn't run. The
>air filter kits just bolt up to the air flow sensor.
>
>% Aric Shen %
>% Speedline Racing Concepts %
>% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 %
>% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com %
>% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted %
>& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic %
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 10:06:29 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Greetings!
My name is Phil Bradshaw and I now have the technology to join this group. I
am presently a final year Manufacturing and Industrial Technology Student at
Massey University in Palmerston North, New Zealand, and I have to use the
campus' computer facilities. I'm ordinarily an Engineering Officer in the NZ
Navy, and am being sponsored thru' the degree. Being 30 years old, I am
supposed to be a 'mature student', but that is open to debate.
Enough of the boring stuff.
My car is a 'Leitch Super Sprint' which is a Lotus/Caterham 7 replica built
by a company in Invercargill, NZ. It is similar to a 'Fraser' for those
familiar with the NZ kit car industry. I built the car from a kit in 1992,
and initially ran a 1983 blue and black top 4AGE that I liberated from a
AE86 Levin that lost an arguement with a lampost. That engine lasted 23,000
miles before it died on a race track, so now it runs a 1991 1587 cc 120kW 20
valve. Yes, that's the VVT motor you lot have been writing about. I put the
motor in myself, and have written some magazine articles about it for the
Sports Car Club of NZ, which have been published.
I believe I have a reasonable amount of knowledge and experience, especially
as I wired up the Fraser in Hamilton with the 20 valve over xmas. My car has
covered some 23,000 miles on the 20 valve and goes great. I have the
magazine articles in word 6 format, so let me know what to do/where to send
them. Look forward to meeting the mods group, and learning your protocols!
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Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 18:49:12 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name :Kelly Carter
Location:College Station, Texas, USA
Model :1989 MR2
Engine :4A-GE, TVIS
Mods :coming up on 100,000mi and plan to rebuild and modify
email :kcarter@archone.tamu.edu
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (celica GT-R)
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 21:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Speaking of air-filters, I have a customized setup using a medium-sized
HKS filter. The person who installed it the first time had to make a
bracket to fit the square housing on the air-flow sensor. He made it out
of plastic. Needless to say it was not very strong as it broke off one
day at the base of the bracket. I only noticed it was broken when the
engine or exhaust, for that matter became relatively louder. LUckily he
ordered a bracket from HKS which is what I have on right now. Nice steel
bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS
have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was
thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of
mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery
is right smack in front of the airfilter. I'm also not too convinced that
the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is
effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways?
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (celica GT-R)
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 21:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I apoligize if this looks like an episode of 20 questions, but I get very
curious when someone performs a major "makeover" of a Celica, especially
the '86-89 models. A really nice "done-up" car of this generation is a
rare find, at least in my part of town.
> Engine: Rebuilt 2SE
What car does a 2SE come from by the way?
> Modifications: Gracer Airinx intake filter
> Sebring exhaust with 2 1/4" pipes
> Magnecor performance ignition cables
> NGK-R sparkplugs
Do you notice any performance gain from the Magnecor and NGK plugs. How
are these plugs different from the stock ones. I have NGK on mine by the
way. One of my wires had gone dead too in the past, which was quite
unhealthy for the engine actually. Oh, what muffler do you use? Funny I
have Sebring as part of the exhaust too, but just the tip. Muffler's
Borla on mine
>
> Tokico sport springs
> Tokico shocks (getting them in two weeks)
> Custom strut tower brace
> 16 inch rims (not chrome)with 215/40/R16 tires
> Suspension techniques sway bars (getting them with the shocks)
> Z-speed racing lugnuts
> Piaa 1000 white driving lights
> Saab side markers(heheheh)
The first time I saw the descrioption on your car, I seriously thought of
mine. I also run 215/40/16. I run P700's. Reason being I didn't want
the BF goodrich. The ideal size would be 215/45/16, but I believe
continental only sells them, DOn't know if I can find them in my area
though. I also run PIaa lights, 959's though. I switch the lenses for
910's in the summer, great illumination in the dark. I'm also
consirering H&R springs with Koni shocks because I would like to adjust
the shocks and H&R lowers 1/4inch more than the Eibach's
>
> Momo "Champion" steering wheel
> Momo "Race Air" shift knob
> Razo aluminum pedals
>
I'm assuming you have a GTS model. Did you have the cruise-control on
your steering wheel also? I'm wondering what I would have to do if I
planned on changing the steering wheel. What 'bout the pedals? Nice
fit? I would sure love a set, stock pedals feel a little small, and they
don't have a firm base. Ever considered a quick-shift knob? Some guy
told me C's makes one for the car, maybe he was wrong. Would be nice
though, that stock stick is allfully long and knotchy.
Richard
| '86 Celica GTS |
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 15:12:51 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson
To: Bill Sherwood
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cam Timing.
Hi Bill, well i've dialled the cams in as close to factory specs as i can
(not having a vernier cam gear) which resulted in the following.
These were all measured at 1 mm lift.
Exhaust opens 32 deg before BDC and closes 3 deg after TDC with maximum lift
at 105 deg before TDC. The inlet opens at 5 deg before TDC and closes at 26
deg after BDC with max lift at 104 deg after TDC. It's not immediately
apparent how to measure the overlap but it looks to me like 58 deg around
BDC with a further 8 deg around TDC but I'm not sure what this means as
these are crank angles and the cams rotate at half the rate etc etc and
my brain is starting to hurt. Whatever the overlap just by eyeballing the
cams i would say it's as little as you could possibly get ie. at TDC the
No.1 cam lobes are pointing directly away from each other. Serious
burrowing through my turbo textbook library finally turned up a vague
reference stating a maximum overlap of 50-60 deg was desirable for a
turboed motor but this was for a pushrod boat anchor and may not apply to
a higher reving twincam. I'd really appreciate
any comments on this set up you would care to make (and anyone else for
that matter) if only for peace of mind (mine). Thanks.
Cheers
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
On Sun, 17 Dec 1995, Bill Sherwood wrote:
> I finally rang my other home and got the numbers on cam timing
> that I was after. As a _general_ rule, but one that seems to
> apply to the majority of set-ups, the exhaust cam must be set at
> 100 crank degrees and the inlet at 102 degrees.
> WHAT THE HECK DOES THAT MEAN, BILL?
> Ok, I'm glad you asked. (Uh-oh, the complex bit...)
> The measurement is taken from the top of the cam lobe and is
> the number of degrees the crankshaft must be turned to bring
> the cam lobe parallel with the valve centreline. The measurements
> are taken from # 1 cylinder.
> What it should look like is this - with the crank at TDC #1,
> the #1 cam lobes will be pointing away from each other, angled
> down towards the ground at a slight angle.
> To check the timing, turn the crank, and at 100 degrees crank
> rotation, the exhaust cam lobe should be pointing exactly away
> from the exhaust valve along the valve's axis.
> With the crank 102 degrees before TDC #1, the inlet cam lobe
> should be pointing exactly away from the inlet valve along the
> valve's axis.
> All these measurements can only be made with an accurate
> dialgauge.
>
> *** Note - it is EXTREMELY inportant to accurately measure
> TDC # 1. The manufacturers mark on the crank pulley is not good
> enough! To get an accurate TDC, what you do is this - take out
> # 1 sparkplug, then the dialgauge (measuring 0.001" increments)
> set the piston 0.050" down the bore both on just before TDC and
> just after TDC. Mark the degree wheel on the front of the crank
> both times - the point exactly between both marks is exactly
> TDC. (Toyota are normally pretty good, _of course!_)
> Now the fiddly part - you have to do the process
> again for both the cams. When you set the cam timing, if you
> have to advance or retard the cam, then you have to measure
> the cam lobe TDC all over again..... Fun, huh? If you're
> not that serious (don't blame you!), then if you are careful
> whilst reading the dialgauge you can get a reasonably practical
> reading on cam lobe TDC just by watching the needle as the
> cam rotates under it. Before I forget, you have to get some
> sort of ferrous metal plate for the dialgauge to sit on
> (most have a magnetic clamp), because Toyota only make alloy
> heads.
>
> Other notes - You may have guessed it isn't an easy thing to
> do. Don't try this at home without supervision! ;-) If you
> aren't careful, then you stand a fair chance of bending a
> valve (usually in multiple of two ...)
> - Some cams are made a tad differently - they need 106 deg for
> both cams. Check with the cam guy. Also insist that the lobes
> are machined very accurately with respect to each other. It's
> surprising common to have the lobes as much as 2 deg out (they
> all have to be 90.0 deg apart.)
> - Some cams have asymmetric lobes! You can't get cam lobe TDC
> using the method I've described. Asy cams are quite rare
> for twin cams, though. (A lot of the good Datsun/Nissan
> cams for 'L' series are.)
>
> Bye now,
> Billzilla. Grrrr.
>
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 00:56:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: Richard Leong
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
Hi Richard,
On Wed, 8 May 1996, Richard Leong wrote:
> bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS
> have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was
>
When I get a chance to fiddle with the air box, I was thinking about
putting a large hole on the side of the air box, facing the brake booster,
and running flexible piping from the hole down past the fuel filter.
> thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of
> mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery
> is right smack in front of the airfilter.
>
I think that any sort of tube routed near the exhaust manifold shield
would definitely be the same as sucking in warm engine air. Yeah, it
would be nice if the batter was on the other side.
> I'm also not too convinced that
> the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is
> effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways?
>
The plastic tube opens up behind the left front headlight. The other
possibility would be to remove the front fender and substitute a larger
tube for the current plastic tube.
Speaking of freeing up restriction, I have doubts about the amount of
flow the AFM allows. I don't know about the flap in the AFM.
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles
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Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 08:02:34 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Chris Hilliard
Subject: me/mine/mods
Hey folks,
I changed to a new server so I thought I would re-do my
mods,etc. list
so here it goes:
Name: Chris Hilliard
Location: Jackson,TN
Make: Toyota Corolla TE-51 Liftback
Engine: 2T-C 1588 cc Hemi
Tranny: T-40
Mods: Weber DGAV 32/36 progressive carb
Late 80's Toyota alloy rims
Pirelli P-44 P185-70R-13
E-mail: tojo@aeneas.net
This is my new e-mail address so remember it's still
me when you see a post,etc.
See ya later
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Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 08:04:13 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Intake on GTS
*** Resending note of 05/09/96 07:58
I can't speak for the Celica GTS, but on the MKI MR2 (4AGE) you can remove the
airbox entirely and replace it with a nice 5" cone filter. I've found with
the header and HKS exhaust it has made quite a difference in my car's
performance. I have details if you need them on how to do it.
..............
Dave Aucott
1986 MR2
daucott@e-mail.com
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 07:29:50 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: FS: 5 '85 MR2 aluminum rims w/balanced tires, $185 + shipping
The garage (literally) sale continues. The racing belts got a *great*
response, so here's a real space saver for me - I want my garage back!
5 (full-sized spare anyone?) '85 MR2 rims, w/balanced tires. All tires are
185/60-14, all are balanced. Spare is a Pirelli, with 5k miles on it. Other
4 are Yokohama A-509s, with about 20k miles on them. Figure the A-509s are
good for 60k normal street/highway driving.
Use them for racing. Mount them on the car and beat the heck out of them.
Get 5 rims/tires for less then 4 mounted tires. Just give me my garage
space back! :-)
$185 + shipping, so local buyers are greatly recommended. That's basically
1/2 off the salvage yard cost for the rim alone, and the tires are
basically for free. Figure $7-$10/per for shipping at least, so if you
aren't local make sure you aren't in California. :)
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
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Date: 09 May 96 16:27:02 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: Dave Abitol
Cc: "Steve B." ,
Subject: Quality is NOT job #1
Well folks,
As most of you remember me complaining about how I was without my car
for about 5 1/2 weeks starting Feb 2 due to Tranny Re-build. Since I got the
car back, it has seen the shop about 3 times for complaints under warranty
to be fixed. Leaking oil, slight grinding etc.... Last evening I was looking
at
my car up on a lift and noticed something VERY disturbing. I had been
hearing a slight noise from the trannyish location under the car since I got
the car back but neither myself, or anyone else for that matter, could figure
out what it was. They all told me I was just imagining it, or it was the
linkage
or something. SupraDave;) happened to notice that the motor mount bolts
fot he front motor mount were MISSING!! Now that's the last straw!! My friggin
engine could have ripped from the other mount and caused MAJOR damage!
About a week ago when I replaced the knock sensor, I noticed that they had
broken the bolt that holds the two braces that come together into a sort of 'Y'
from the tranny to the suspension and from the clutch housing to the suspension.
Since they didn't feel the need to drill out the old bolt and replace it, they
just
decided to tighten the other ends of the support bars and leave well enough
alone. After an IRATE phone call this morning, the service mgr decided to let
me bring the car in to the shop tomorrow and they will fix it. Anyone out there
know of anything that I can do?? I think they should not only give me some
money back ($2200 spent on rebuild) but I want to write to the better business
bureau or something!! I'm REALLY PISSED! Anyways, I'm just letting off some
steam. Thanks for listening.
Later,
Larry S.
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From: Dan Jones
Subject: W50 Transmission
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 16:27:51 CDT
Hi All,
I've recently purchased a transmission that I believe to be a Toyota
W50 5 speed. It has a cast iron case and an aluminum tail housing.
This transmission is mounted to an all aluminum 1962 3.5L Buick V8
engine that was previously installed in a 1932 Ford street rod.
I intend to put the Buick/Toyota drivetrain in my 1977 Triumph TR7.
My question is does anyone know what the gear ratios are? I'm not
on your list, so please email me directly at m203253@ws2200.mdc.com
Thanks,
Dan Jones,
St.Louis, Missouri
m203253@ws2200.mdc.com
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Track day report...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:38:25 +0300 (EET DST)
Hi y'all, the Carina is not yet ready, injector capacity ends
at just over 200hp, reaching stochiometric at 240hp. So I run
it now at 203hp. Anyway, the races came and went, read on to know
how...
Thursday (again). I wasn't first about to go there at all, as the car was
not ready and I had an oil leak from turbo oil drain hose. Well, Tero had
gotten his exhaust fixed, but was leaking oil too. So what the hell,
time to pick 2 liters of oil and head towards Ahvenisto...
I had nothing differnent suspension-wise compared to last time,
except that I had bumped up the front tyres to 44psi and left the
rears at 37psi. Power was slightly upped from last time,
now at 203hp from 5000 to 6000rpm, limited by fuel supply running
a modest 13psi boost. Handling was the same as last time, with
use of power the tighter corners went pretty well, though at the
cost of rear tyre wear... Some of the higher-speed corners reminded
me of the need for negative front camber - the dreaded understeer set
in and could be only gotten momentarily rid of by lifting off the
throttle, giving some mild oversteer for a moment as expected.
So I ran 3 fast laps, 2 of them were relatively free of traffic,
which brought results: 1:44.7 and 1:45.0. After that, brake fade
set in, and I also noticed that the mixture seemed pretty lean
under full power... the intercooler must have been working well
or maybe I was getting air bubbles in the fuel (under half full tank).
Probably both, as I had already on the way to Ahvenisto noticed
rather lean mixtures on the highway - down to 870mV. On the track,
at worst it was 750mV. No wonder it was heating up the coolant
a bit, around 90-93C. Once I got to the pits, the oil pressure
was down to 1 bar at idle because of the temperature. After a few
km of driving, it was back to the normal 2 bar at idle.
I'm glad I took the opportunity, 3.5s improvement isn't that bad
for a modest ~10hp increase and no traffic problems, which
I reckoned last time to have cost me maybe 2 seconds...
The Volvo 244 turbo received the highest repair bill of the day.
One spark plug disintegrated, the whole center electrode and insulator
were gone. Marks on the #1 piston, and compression down at 3 bar
(11 bar for the other ones). Can you say "detonation"?
The BMW 535 didn't impress on the first few laps, in 1:54-1:56
neighborhood. Then he got serious, times started dropping and edges
of the track getting closer... on one lap he went out of the track
to the gravel, at approximately 145km/h, completely sideways but
miraculously saved it and got back on the track (though didn't get
it completely under control until about a hundred meters later).
He did take the second fastest time after all.
Plans still include ye olde bithcing about not enough negative
camber in front, too soft springs and not enough power (to
break the tyres loose at 120km/h ;). But this time I'm closer
to attending to these. I promise you all 240hp before the end
of next week, and the remaining 40hp by mid-summer ;)
Springs, that depends on when the motoring club MIG is working
again... next track day is in September, then all should have been
ready for a long time - if I get the brakes done too, it may
be time for a tour of all tracks in Finland.
Results, as I remember them:
1. Carina GT-T 1:44.7 203hp 5000-6000rpm
2. BMW 535 1:46.2? 211hp, can't blame for not trying hard ;)
3. Alfa GTV 1:47.2 153hp, no air filters
+ slower ones:
Skoda 130 Rapid 1:59.2 Kari drove...
1:58.2 ... and I did ;)
Volvo 244 turbo - blew during warm-up laps
VW Kupla (Bug) ?
Opel Ascona ~1:56
Saab 90 ~1:59
Ford Taunus ?
And for those who haven't read the yearly drag race (1/8 mile) results yet
from my pages:
# time speed driver vehicle
[s] [km/h]
1 9.16 138 Kari Vdlimaa Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu
2 9.77 125 Matti Kalalahti Toyota Carina GT-T TC Turbo (203hp)
3 10.0 112 Mika Virtanen Nissan 300ZX Turbo
4 10.1 121 Riku Kreula Pontiac Firebird
timing by hand, includes reaction times...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up...
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL
Subject: Leaking supercharger
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 16:22:30 -0700 (PDT)
Hi everyone,
I just had my car taken in for a 60K tune up and the mechanic informed me
that I had a slight oil leak from somewhere. I traced it to the
supercharger and am wondering now if its just a bad seal on the unit that
can be easily replaced, or if I need a new unit. If I do need a new
unit, I've heard of aftermarket superchargers which provide more boost
than the stock one, but I'm not sure who actually makes them for the MKI
SC MR2s. Has anyone had similiar experiences? Any inputs would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2 (Leaking but still afloat) :-(
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Date: Thu, 9 May 96 16:24:05 -0700
From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong)
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Blowing my horn, not my gasket!
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Supra Guys and Gals -
I'm pleased to announce I've driven my Mark III, 1987 Supra turbo
300,000 kilometers!
Or about 186,411 miles give or take. This isn't the longest lived
7M Supra I've heard of on the Net, but I think it's the longest lived
one still actively with the Supra (& Mods) group.
This is all original equipment minus the usual service/disposables,
with these longer wear items having been replaced:
power steering rack ($$$$)
water pump (twice, once under warranty)
thermostat
radiator cap
various hoses ($$$)
center valve cover
valve cover gaskets
cam sensor gasket
heater VSV
cold start switch
# cylinder head bolts
# EGR valve and modulator
# O2 sensor
targa top bolt/nut
wheel stud
engine under cover
n ignition cables
n brake pads (once only, at 170,000 miles!)
n shocks (HKS/TRD)
n exhaust (HKS, twice!)
notes:
# = due to heater bypass blowing out (overheated) event
n = I consider Normal long wear item (never "lifetime")
Items soon to be replaced:
clutch master - leaking
ball joints - loose
brake rotors - bad vibrations
wheel bearings - noisy
Notable items which have lasted EXCEPTIONALLY long:
* original paint, except for plastic bumpers -> GONE!
original engine, including head gasket, no rebuilds
original turbocharger
original transmission, including clutch!
** original leather wrapped steering wheel and upholstery
original freon, needs recharge
original fog lamps, some large nicks in unbroken lens
notes:
* many rock/debris chips & 2 parking XXXhole dings :(,
looks fine except for those bumpers.
** some wear is evident (bolster), but still looks great!
I won't reveal here additional pieces I've replaced/upgraded optionally,
or involuntarily through mishap (e.g. heater bypass - #). You can guess
or check out the Supra web entry.
Only the steering rack wasn't replaced with "Genuine Toyota" parts or
a "high performance" equivalent.
Some of the longevity might be directly attributable to the fact
she's (mildly) MODIFIED FOR PERFORMANCE, contrary to popular belief.
You can have your cake...
(If an engine makes more power than stock, you put less stress on it
under "normal" driving conditions, right?)
Thanks to the valuable information from this list and others, I'll
probably take her up to 200,000 miles sometime next year;
she'll be only 10 years young then!
Leslie
'87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather,
ONLY 186.5K miles - that's 300,000 kilometers!
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To: toyota-mods
From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus
Date: 9 May 96 20:16:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Leaking supercharger
History: Micky's got oil leaking from a seal on his supercharger
I reply: This supercharger unit is fully serviceable. It's rebuildable. The
MR2 service book provides excellent detail of the supercharger, and it's
rebuilding, and it looks like a do-it-yourself job (if we had the space... if
we had the time... if we had the tools... if we had another car... etc...).
There's really not much to the supercharger.
I suppose, if someone made one, you could install another supercharger that
might give you more hp. I haven't done this myself, but in researching this,
on the stock engine with all Toyota bits, the addition of a new pulley that
turns the sc vanes faster, a header and different exhaust, and a couple of cams
timed other than to factory spec (TRD seemed to have these numbers), would
produce somewhere around, or upwards, of 200hp. Some folks I spoke with were
claiming more from these modifications, but that would just be incremental, I
think. 200hp, and all that sc torque, would move the Mk 1 SC MR2 along quite
nicely, indeed. This certainly isn't a lot of work, or a huge out lay of money
for the engine performance difference it provides. The SC motor is plenty
strong, with its strengthened block, forged pistons, and stronger crank, and
the Toyota-designed sc system is also quite reliable, though I have some small
reservations about the robustness of the rest of the drivetrain at this hp.
- Steven
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From: "Gary Friedman"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:12:48 +0000
Subject: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge
I have a 93 MR2T. Starting about 2 weeks ago(time of an oil
change??)I've had a problem on cold starts. The car hesitates when
pressing the gas pedal-- I can punch it and it just pauses, then
slowly rpms start hesitantly going up and the turbo suddenly kicks
in, causing lunging forward.
I have never experienced this kind of hesitation on cold acceleration
before. However, whats really scaring me is that the turbo is
spooling up in first gear and kicking in before rpms!! I can never
recall much turbo boost in first gear when rpms were winding
normally. The turbo kick at 2000 hesitant rpm seems weird- like the
engine management system is mistakenly exchanging turbo power due to
missing prerequesite basic rpm power.
It led to my first fishtail today- Without even pushing hard, it
hesitated at an intersection turn and then the turbo kicked in during
hesitation and spun out he rear, Any ideas folks?? This car has
always been predictable and I have never fishtailed before- even in
hard cornering and accellerating.
Anyone experience this phenomena? What gives (or is something about
to give!!!)
Gary
Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!!
MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 00:10:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott Davis
To: Toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 80 corolla struts
Anyone care to comment on the feasability of replacing the stock struts
with something better? Coil overs? (what are they, anyways? Help! No
suspension knowledge beyond stock whatsoever...)
Also, can anyone give me feedback on the feasability of mounting
a turbo unit on my 3T-C? Specifically:
-is the compression ratio OK, or does it need to be lowered?
-are the stock components able to handle the load to about 10 lbs
boost?
-What other mods are neccessary to convert a N/A to a turbo?
-would it be cheaper just to buy a 3T-GTE or perhaps just get the
turbo unit from said engine?
Thanks...
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
80 Corolla SR-5
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1/index.html
"Physics 107 was a very thorough class. What wasn't covered in lecture
showed up on the tests."
/|
/ |
/ |
/ |
/____|
_______|___
_________\_________/___________
__ __ ____ ___ __ __ _ _____ __ _
___ _ ____ ____ __ __ __ _ ____ ____
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From: "Gary Friedman"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:56:53 +0000
Subject: Re: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge
> From: Self
> To: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com, mr2-announce@validgh.com
> Subject: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge
> Reply-to: gfriedmn@ipof.fla.net
> Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:12:55
> I have a 93 MR2T. Starting about 2 weeks ago(time of an oil
> change??)I've had a problem on cold starts. The car hesitates when
> pressing the gas pedal-- I can punch it and it just pauses, then
> slowly rpms start hesitantly going up and the turbo suddenly kicks
> in, causing lunging forward.
Snip, Snip.....
I'm wasn't suggesting the oil change per se... But the car gets an
overall check by my mechanic when oil is changed. Any minor
"touches" or adjustments that could lead to this??
I'm mostly concerned about the turbo spooling so much in FIRST GEAR-
before its up to rpms. Seems like it would stress the system as its
so unusual. I'll be trying to remember slow warm ups til I can get
it in for a check.
Thanks for the feedback thus far.
Thanks for "announce" David!!!!
Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!!
MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 07:55:50 EDT
From: "'G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)' daucott@e-mail.com"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tranny Swap - Update
*** Resending note of 05/10/96 07:49
Hi everyone!
I've started my project of switching my new MR2 from automatic to manual,
and I took the auto trans out last night. Here are a few observations:
This car was designed as a manual. Everything appears to be there for
the installation of the manual goodies... coolant lines, mounting points,
weld nuts, everything. Perhaps the most amazing to me was that even
the WIRING is there!! Now, I don't know if ALL the points are there yet
because I haven't completed the job, but even the backup light switch is
there still attatched to the wiring harness with tear tape as from the
factory. Neat! I just hope the clutch pedal switch is there too! It'll
this sooooo easy.
I also noticed that although this car had no cruise control, all the wiring
is there for that too: the connectors in the engine compartment, the ECU
plug and wiring, and I assume the column wiring is all there. Toyota must
have decided it was better to have one wiring harness (or maybe two) that
covered everything, and just give away the circuits on the cars that don't
use them. Seems an expensive way to go if you ask me, but I"m not
complaining!! :-)
Further details forthcoming after I get the new trans and all the lines,
linkages, etc. installed.
Dave A.
1986 MR2s, green and silver
daucott@e-mail.com
..............
G. Dave Aucott
1998 FN145 Structures
32-39181 Internet: daucott@e-mail.com
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:20:38 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh)
Subject: Early Diff/Tranny problems?
I have what seems to be the beginning of a problem with my '85 Celica GTS.
I am getting a jerky thing happening when I'm in gear. This usually
happens when decelerating. It starts very slight and if I hold the
throttle in between the point of coasting and pulling the car, it will
start to buck. I never get the problem when accelerating, only right at
coasting or decelerating. Also, I'm hearing a slight 'clunk' when I engage
the clutch. I'm wondering if the problem is U-joints, or diff. fluid
needing to be changed, or clutches in the diff. I don't know where to
start. The bucking of the car is really starting to get on my nerves
though. I have to wonder if my recent popping of the clutch down at the
local car hangout has anything to do with this problem. BTW, any
recommendation on diff. fluid? I will probably change that next week.
Thanks for any suggestions.
-frederick.
'85 Celica GTS Convertible
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:06:58 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: clutch upgrade
>From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
>Subject: clutch upgrade
>
>I have an '89 MkI MR2, 4A-GE, bone stock. NOt for long...
>I'm replacing my clutch after abusing it for 100,000mi. I want to replace
>it with something that will be able to handle some planned performance
>upgrades. I don't expect to go over 175hp. I want it to handle high speed
>(+100) as well.
>How about CV's and halfshafts? Trans and motor mounts? Fluids? I run
>Mobil 1 now.
>Tips and supplier suggestions would be appreciated.
>Thanks
>
>Kelly Carter
For fluids, have you tried Redline MTL for your tranny and their gear lubes?
I myself haven't tried either but have heard that both do an excellent job
and in some cases make shifting smoother.
Check out the mr2 www page at http://mr2.com/. They have all sorts of
useful information. Check out the Performance Upgrade Information page.
Dave
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Redline "MTL" or other for '85 MR2?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 13:12:19 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
Hi Everyone,
Well, I'm going to start searching junkyards next week for a front
end clip so that I can get started on my front end repair and get the car
back on the road. I will also be changing all of the fluids since the car
has been sitting since last August, and driven around the block about every
two weeks.
My question is regarding the manual transmission fluid. I noticed
lately that there is debate about which Redline fluid to use. I remember
back a few months when it was said that for the '85 MR2 gearbox, Redline MTL
was the fluid choice, and I believe that this is what's in the FAQ. Is this
the right one, or should I use a different Redline fluid? The car has
93,000 miles on it and still has the original gearbox. It has become
slightly notchy in the past year, so I want to put in the best transmission
fluid I can to make it last, along with the better shifting techniques I've
learned about on this list.
Thank you :)
Aly
'85 MR2
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
PS, Is Valvoline the choice for engine oil, if you can't afford Mobil 1 ?
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 12:18:31 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: clutch upgrade
I have an '89 MkI MR2, 4A-GE, bone stock. NOt for long...
I'm replacing my clutch after abusing it for 100,000mi. I want to replace
it with something that will be able to handle some planned performance
upgrades. I don't expect to go over 175hp. I want it to handle high speed
(+100) as well.
How about CV's and halfshafts? Trans and motor mounts? Fluids? I run
Mobil 1 now.
Tips and supplier suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Kelly Carter
A/V Technician
College of Architecture
Media Center
Texas A&M University
College Station, TX
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From: "Scott, Dan"
To: ToyMods
Subject: RedLine MTL
Date: Fri, 10 May 96 11:48:00 PDT
Hi y'all:
In my '88 Celica I used RedLine 75W90 (the weight that the manual requested)
and the results were (are ) outstanding. I would not hesitate to recommend
it to anyone with non-copper synchros in their tranny. If you have the
copper, and I don't think any Toy trannys have 'em, then the oil is too
slippery and you will get gear clash. I also use RedLine motor oil but I
can't vouch for any results since you can't tell just by driving. Shifting
with the new oil is very smooth and easy and I think it's great!
Good luck
Dan Scott
'88 Celica 4WD Turbo 152000 Kms (95000 miles)
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 14:24:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott!
To: Toyota Mods List
Subject: Hastings Oil Filters
Hi,
Does any know if these filters are any good?
Thanks Toyota-gods and goddesses,
Scott
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Date: Fri, 10 May 96 14:39:58 EST
From: "Changming Tony Chung"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Dear Sir:
My email address is changming@ilx.com. I have a question about an
internal oil burning question. I own an 86 1/2 Supra 7MGE, non turbo.
My car is burning one quart of motor oil every 300 miles. I did a
compress check of the engine before the engine is rebuilt. #1-#6 were
about 170-180psi, except #4 was 105psi. I send the engine's head to
rebuild. I believe the machine shop didn't change any value guide.
They did change the value seals and resurface the values face. I
changed the piston rings with the oem size, cam shaft and thrust
bearings.
After the rebuilt, I did a compression check and all the cylinder's
compression are in the range fo 175 to 190 psi. I did a vacuum Check
on the intake manifold at the connection of the cursie control module.
It is pulling 17" of vacuum and the needle is steady. When the
throttle is fully open, the needle jumps to zero and bounces up to
19" and returns to 17" of vacuum. I don't have the equipment to
perform a leak test on the engine. After 4000 miles, the engine
starts to burning oil again, one quart every 300 miles, on oil leaks.
I am thinking to send the head of the engine to a machine shop to
change all the value guides. The third possible source of internal
oil burning is oil pushing or pulling through the pcv value or system.
I check the pcv system according to the maintenance manual and didn't
find any clod in the any passage. Can I get some expert opinion from
you guys.
Is there a turbo kit out there to convert a 7MGE to 7MGE-T engine.
What are the inexpensive ways to increase you pickup speed and
horsepower.
Sincerely yours,
Tony Chung
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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 20:46:46 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Redline "MTL" or other for '85 MR2?Q
In a message dated 96-05-10 13:19:58 EDT, you write:
> My question is regarding the manual transmission fluid. I noticed
>lately that there is debate about which Redline fluid to use. I remember
>back a few months when it was said that for the '85 MR2 gearbox, Redline MTL
>was the fluid choice, and I believe that this is what's in the FAQ. Is this
>the right one, or should I use a different Redline fluid? The car has
>93,000 miles on it and still has the original gearbox. It has become
>slightly notchy in the past year, so I want to put in the best transmission
>fluid I can to make it last, along with the better shifting techniques I've
>learned about on this list.
I just replaced my trans fluid with Castrol Syntec. I was at the mercy of
the corner store and this was the best they had (late at night, only one
open)... It was mighty expensive and it should be good stuff! Anyone have
experience with it? My trans works as well as or better than before I put it
in, and the mysterious noise I got before it went in is gone.
Dave A.
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From: Alec Dun
To: "'toyota-mods@cyberauto.com'"
Subject: me/mine/mods
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 23:24:16 -0700
Name : Alec Dun
Location :
Model : 1993 Supra Twin-Turbo
Engine : 3GTZ?
Mods : none so far
email : alecdu@halcyon.com
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Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 13:09:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Wheels
Does anyone know of a source for Panasport wheels ar reasonable prices?
I am looking for a set of 13 X 6 inch for Starlet (same as rear drive
Corolla). Also, does anyone have a set of used 13 X 6 they would care to
sell?
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 15:16:30 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Chris Hilliard
Hey folks,
Have any of you made any fender flares for your car? I am trying to
make some BMW "M" style box flares for my Corolla. The desired look
would be SCCA pro rally like . With these I would want to be able to run
50 series tires and 15" rims. I have made a few prototypes that I just don't
like (out
of sheet metal) and have thought about possibly taking some dually truck fenders
, cutting them down to about 5" and reshaping from there. I would also like
to put
my fuel filler tube into the fender with a door or a cool aftermarket
something or other. Any thoughts on this? Naturally I would have to find
some kind of front facia
or ground effects. Anybody know of a source for that or a car that has the
same width as my corolla so that I could go wrecking yard hunting?
By the way, my car is a ' 77 Corolla Liftback TE-51.