^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ _______ ^^^
^^^ ,' - _ ^^^
^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^
^^^ , ' | ^^^
^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^
^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^
^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^
^^^ ^^^
^^^ P O S T I N G S May 1996 ^^^
^^^ --------------------------- ^^^
^^^ ^^^
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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 01:03:53 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Finally got it!
Well, I finally got my '86 from Florida! Only three weeks late (long story).
Now to begin that modification from an auto to a 5-speed...
BYW, anyone out there interested in the auto trans, or any of the
"auto-specific" parts (like the trans computer)? I'll be pulling it all off
in the next couple weeks.
Dave A.
daucott@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 23:25:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: tire pressure for Celicas
Hi all,
For all 86-89 Celica owners (3S-xxx engine) running 205/60R14, are you
going by the recommended pressure of 26 psi front and rear? You probably
know that with 26 psi in the front, the tires look underinflated.
I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
change?
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu
87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, 102K miles, 195/60R14 with 32 psi front/27 psi rear,
suspension stock except Eibach progressive springs & Tokico struts
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Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 10:55:15 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: defeo@charlotte.med.nyu.edu (Anthony DeFeo)
Subject: me/mine/mods
hello,
this is anthony DeFeo i have just joined th mods list. Here is the info
asked for with some additional comments.
Name: Anthony DeFeo
location: Tuxedo, NY, 10987
model: 1993 MR2 normally aspirated
engine: 5SFE
mods: none yet
as you can see i have not done any mods yet but have been on the MR2 page
and am on the MR2 digest and have found this to be of great benefit for
ideas. I would defenitely like to get some more power out of my vehicle. I
am considering either a HKS power flow or a K+N power filter injector kit
and a sport exhaust sytem but have not come across any additional power
mods. I have also been considering purchasing anti sway bars from
suspesion techneques, toiciko? adjustable shocks and eibach springs. I am
defenitley new to all this with limeted knowledge of motor engines but am
interested in learning more
thanks
anthony defeo
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Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 10:08:44 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: tire pressure for Celicas
>From: Phillip Dang
>Hi all,
>
>For all 86-89 Celica owners (3S-xxx engine) running 205/60R14, are you
>going by the recommended pressure of 26 psi front and rear? You probably
>know that with 26 psi in the front, the tires look underinflated.
>
>I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
>change?
>
>Phil
Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your
understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire
pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to
35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire
pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling
characteristics (eg, understeer)
Dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: ml36@cornell.edu
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 14:20:52 -0400 (EDT)
To: Justin Simpson
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Diffs
On Wed, 1 May 1996, Justin Simpson wrote:
> I have the 85/86 LSD rear end in my RA 23 Celica (took some work but it
> was worth it). The LSD is as tight as and churps big time when reversing.
Justin-
I recently swapped the standard (non-LSD) rear in my corolla GTS for an
'85 LSD rear from a junkyard, and mine is definitely not very tight.
Switching to Red Line 75W-90NS oil helped a bunch, but it still seems
looser than I expected, and I still get lots of wheelspin on the inside
rear while accelerating out of corners in Solo II. My question to you
is, can you give me some kind of estimate of the tightness I should
expect from the stock diff? Either something seat of the pants like how
hard is it to turn one rear wheel with the other one held, or a torque
number if you can measure it easily. I can feel resistance when I turn
one rear wheel with the other on the ground, but its not what I would
call difficult to turn. I've lost my torque wrench and haven't replaced
it yet, so its hard for me to put a more quantitative number on it.
Maybe 20 ft lbs? Probably less. I probably have a rebuild of that diff
in my future, but I fear the cost of parts. I certainly don't want to do
it if I'm not going to get much better lockup. Gotta keep the parts
stock to satisfy Solo II stock class regs.
thanks for the input.
-Mike Leary
87 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser)
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Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 11:46:01 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson
To: ml36@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Diffs
Hi Mike, my diff like i said is very tight. When turning one rear wheel
you can only hold the other wheel for about one revolution before the
clutch pack locks up and both wheels turn, you definitely can't stop or
even slow the other wheel but I've only done this by hand and don't have
any torque figures on the effort required to overcome the LSD. When
driving if one wheel is spinning both are spinning, when we first put the
diff in we did a series of hard launches with one wheel in the dirt and
one on the tar to see how much slippage the diff had and the car either
bogged down or both wheels lit up. The guy I bought it off had just had
it rebuilt and apparently just had the clutch pack tightened and only
used stock parts so your problem should be easy to fix. Hope this was
some help.
Cheers
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
On Wed, 1 May 1996 ml36@cornell.edu wrote:
>
> On Wed, 1 May 1996, Justin Simpson wrote:
>
> > I have the 85/86 LSD rear end in my RA 23 Celica (took some work but it
> > was worth it). The LSD is as tight as and churps big time when reversing.
>
> Justin-
> I recently swapped the standard (non-LSD) rear in my corolla GTS for an
> '85 LSD rear from a junkyard, and mine is definitely not very tight.
> Switching to Red Line 75W-90NS oil helped a bunch, but it still seems
> looser than I expected, and I still get lots of wheelspin on the inside
> rear while accelerating out of corners in Solo II. My question to you
> is, can you give me some kind of estimate of the tightness I should
> expect from the stock diff? Either something seat of the pants like how
> hard is it to turn one rear wheel with the other one held, or a torque
> number if you can measure it easily. I can feel resistance when I turn
> one rear wheel with the other on the ground, but its not what I would
> call difficult to turn. I've lost my torque wrench and haven't replaced
> it yet, so its hard for me to put a more quantitative number on it.
> Maybe 20 ft lbs? Probably less. I probably have a rebuild of that diff
> in my future, but I fear the cost of parts. I certainly don't want to do
> it if I'm not going to get much better lockup. Gotta keep the parts
> stock to satisfy Solo II stock class regs.
>
> thanks for the input.
>
> -Mike Leary
> 87 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser)
>
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Date: 02 May 96 07:54:11 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: Dave Abitol ,
Subject: All's well that ends well...
As you all know, I have had the error code 52 hampering my
fun for the past week. As of last night, I finally fixed the problem.
I went to Supra Dave;)'s shop and we began to poke around.
It seems that the knock sensor from his 87 Supra Turbo fits
directly into the MR2 MKII Turbo. All fixed, no problem. Once
again I'm getting my boost fix with a smile 8^). The only problem
now is that my Speedo stopped working. Hmm..... Is this
really a problem?? ;-)
Later
Larry S
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Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 12:29:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott Davis
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 286 CPU's
Alright, I know this falls under techno-addiction, but as I was riding
around my school, I saw the chem department dumping old 286 machines into
their dummpster. Immediately, the only thing I could think about was
"hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind
of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display
for it? (CRT is way too big and bulky, not to mention heavy.)
Of course, after about twenty minutes of thinking, I finally
wondered what I would do with it in the car, anyways. But it would
be too cool of an idea to pass up, so I am passing it out to all of you
out there... If you had a computer in your car, what would you
want it to do, and what sensors would be needed to do this (I have a
1980, so no stock sensors of virtually any kind).
It has ocurred to me to have water temp, oil temp, lateral G, mpg
readings, accelleration, brake temp, exhaust temp, knock sensor, and
whatever else I can find and write code for. That way, I would be able
to monitor the averages, and know when something is going awry... All of
these values would be stored and used for comparison, if needed... Kinda
like the black box on an airplane...
This information could possibly be displayed by way of HUD, if
brought to that extent, but a normal readout would be perfectly adequate.
Any ideas and or feedback would be appreciated.
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: Scott Davis
Cc: supras ,
From: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC
Date: 2 May 96 13:53:29 EDT
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
I've already been playing around with this idea.....The only problem using a
286 or such board is the power consumption. These beasts, especially the older
ones, SUCK juice. They didn't really care how much, you were plugged into a
wall outlet. But in a car, you need to be concerned about this. Plus, the old
286 motherboards were quite large...I don't know about the rest of you, but I
couldn't find a good place in my MKIV to put it...then worry about heat
dissipation too.
Your idea for this project is excellent! As a matter of fact, I've already
begun this.(I believe I posted about it on the Supra mailing list) THe board
I'm using I've gotten down to 4" x 4" and that supplies everything but the
sensors and uses......hmmm...don't remember the exact power requirement but
it's VERY VERY low...
To: supras @ vicor.com @ INTERNET
cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET, Toyota @
btoy1.rochester.NY.US @ INTERNET (bcc: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC)
From: ssdavis1 @ students.uiuc.edu (Scott Davis) @ INTERNET
Date: 05/02/96 12:29:54 PM
Subject: 286 CPU's
Alright, I know this falls under techno-addiction, but as I was riding
around my school, I saw the chem department dumping old 286 machines into
their dummpster. Immediately, the only thing I could think about was
"hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind
of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display
for it? (CRT is way too big and bulky, not to mention heavy.)
Of course, after about twenty minutes of thinking, I finally
wondered what I would do with it in the car, anyways. But it would
be too cool of an idea to pass up, so I am passing it out to all of you
out there... If you had a computer in your car, what would you
want it to do, and what sensors would be needed to do this (I have a
1980, so no stock sensors of virtually any kind).
It has ocurred to me to have water temp, oil temp, lateral G, mpg
readings, accelleration, brake temp, exhaust temp, knock sensor, and
whatever else I can find and write code for. That way, I would be able
to monitor the averages, and know when something is going awry... All of
these values would be stored and used for comparison, if needed... Kinda
like the black box on an airplane...
This information could possibly be displayed by way of HUD, if
brought to that extent, but a normal readout would be perfectly adequate.
Any ideas and or feedback would be appreciated.
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1
<---------------------------------------------------------------------------->
For info, email with subject "help" to toyota-request@btoy1.rochester.ny.us
To unsubscribe, email with subject "unsubscribe" to:
toyota-request@btoy1.rochester.ny.us
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 21:10:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott Davis
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 286 CPU's
> > If I had a old, heavy '286 and monitor in my Supra.......I would heave it out
> > the window and reduce the car's weight! The computer inside the ECU
> > is more powerful than a "brain-dead" '286!
>
> Actually... you may be suprised, most pre-90's ECU's are real simple,
> power wise.. a 10 MHz 80286 would be a lot faster.... scary but
> true..
Well, it is a 12 MHz board, with a 286 chip and what looks like 4 megs of
RAM. Nice deal- brand new out of the box. 30 pin SIMM's... (cheap as
dirt) 16 bit operation... From a PC AT circa mid 80's or so... Good
setup I think- more than enough computing power for what I could think of
doing. And it was free. *grin*
I would like to know how to make a good set of input/output board
connections for it. Any suggestions on how too hook it up? I think I
read somewhere that it has a current draw of between 2.6 and 5 amps. I
don't know the voltage requirements, though... Anyone got this info? I
plan to mount it in the glove with a cooling fan.
As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built
nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very
large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic
box and no problem.
Can anyone resolve the input/output mess, though? I would like
to know how to get the data into and out of the processor... Are there
any preferred display types?
Finally, other than the motherboard, what components do I need to
make it all work?
TIA
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1
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Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 12:55:39 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Cyberspace.com server?
Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error
everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple
days!
Dave
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cyberspace.com server?
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 17:01:50 -0400
From: Tom Julien
David Rees writes:
>Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error
>everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple
>days!
I'm terribly sorry guys and gals, but the Sprint link to our
internet provider (tach.net) went down two days ago. We and
Tachyon have been raising, ahem, holy hell with Sprint to
get us back on line, and find out why the failover circuit
never picked up. I think that Tachyon was so unimpressed
with Sprint's response to this catastrophe that they are
working a switchover to MCI. Chris and I hope this will
not result in more down time, and are also considering
other options.
Again, sincerest apologies for the interruption in service,
and thanks for your patience.
/*************************************************************
Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com
Engineering Unix Support Tel: 407-826-7685
Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL Fax: 407-826-1881
*************************************************************/
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 14:02:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jayson Entao
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
On Thu, 2 May 1996, Scott Davis wrote:
...
> dirt) 16 bit operation... From a PC AT circa mid 80's or so... Good
> setup I think- more than enough computing power for what I could think of
> doing. And it was free. *grin*
^^^^
Ah, the magic word. =)
> I would like to know how to make a good set of input/output board
> connections for it. Any suggestions on how too hook it up? I think I
I think a good place to look would be a J&D Microdevices
catalog. As I recall there's some stuff available for data/sensor
logging for lab work, like input boards and simple software to go with it.
> As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built
> nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very
> large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic
This is going to fit in your glovebox? Some of those old 286
cases were huge! Are you just going to use an inverter for a power
source?
> any preferred display types?
To save space and power, I was thinking along the lines of an old
plasma display you could cannibalize from an old laptop, along with its
controller...but then you might has well rig up that laptop for the data
logging system. Then as you add more screens you can duplicate the inside
of KITT from "Knight Rider"..heh...
-Jayson
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
|| Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / /
|| ||/// / / / / / / /
|| jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / /
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 14:15:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jayson Entao
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cyberspace.com server?
On Fri, 3 May 1996, David Rees wrote:
> Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error
> everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple
> days!
>
I've been able to connect to it. The list is up, just a bit
quiet... and like you, I haven't gotten messages until like a couple
minutes ago. The last two times, and just now, they came in bursts of 3
or 4. Weird.
-Jayson
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
|| Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / /
|| ||/// / / / / / / /
|| jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / /
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / /
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Subject: Transmission Rebuild?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 15:52:45 -0600 (CDT)
From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One)
Forwarded message:
I finally got my Celica running. (86 GT-S)
Now it feels like the synchro's out in 2nd gear.
A big crunch on upshift, can't downshift without double-clutch.
My Haynes manual seems to think I'm not ready for transmission work. It
does give the diagrams of how the thing goes together, though.
What's everyone's experience with this transmission? Should I go with
rebuilt or new or junkyard or rebuild her myself? I've taken the
transmission out several times in my motor rebuilding so I know I can do
that much.
Please help, the 1st to 3rd shift is embarassing me at the stoplight.
Obmod: Where can I find a header for this car? Muffler recommendations?
m.r
--
"One might reasonably assume the employees of a comic strip would
have some sense of humor, puny and plebian though it may be."
POGO's Porky Pine, 1948 (Walt Kelly)
***********************mrages@umr.edu (Mark Rages)****************************
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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL
Subject: tire pressure for Celicas
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 16:41:13 -0700 (PDT)
> >I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
> >change?
> >
> >Phil
>
> Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your
> understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire
> pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to
> 35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire
> pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling
> characteristics (eg, understeer)
>
> Dave
>
If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should
be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The
reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front
engined car, and the weight bias is more distributed to your front end
(I'm not sure about the exact distribution numbers though). As the
Celicas are front wheel drive cars, I do not see any predictable handling
characteristics by increasing understeering. The front wheels would have
less traction with increased understeering, which decreases handling. I
would personally put more pressure in the rear and decrease pressure in
the front tires, so that if loss of control occurs, the rear tires would
break loose first and I could power my way back with the fronts.
Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 19:56:56 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: ashley@oncomdis.on.ca (Ashley Preston)
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
For what they're worth, here are my thoughts on using a 286 in a car.
> As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built
>nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very
>large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic
>box and no problem.
> Can anyone resolve the input/output mess, though? I would like
>to know how to get the data into and out of the processor... Are there
>any preferred display types?
> Finally, other than the motherboard, what components do I need to
>make it all work?
The stock 286 power supply will have to go. Remember, it runs on 115VAC.
Obviously, +12VDC is readily available in a car (although I wouldn't
consider it very clean), +5VDC could be easily obtained by regulating the
+12VDC with linear (or switching) regulators. -12VDC is a bit more of a
challenge, although I'm not sure that 286 motherboards use it. It may only
exist for plug-in cards. In any case, you'll need a switcher for -12VDC.
National Semiconductor has a line of 'Simple Switchers'. You may be able to
talk a sample kit complete with components if you or someone else is in the
industry.
The simplest I/O (Input/Output) available on a PC would be through the
peripherals built into a multi I/O card. This includes a few bits of
parallel I/O in the form of the printer (parallel) port. The handshake
lines on a serial port can be used, but these tend to have a -12V to +12V
range, although they may work at 0V and +5V in a pinch. Also,
potentiometers inputs can be interfaced through the joystick ports. Note:
the joystick port will only work if connected to a potentiometer. It
unfortunately can't be connected to an analog input. Another option, as
someone else has already mentioned, are plug-in I/O boards available from
several suppliers.
You could get data out of the processor using seven segment displays or LED
bar graphs etc. This would get away from having to use a heavy monitor
(that also requires 115VAC). You could plug the monitor and keyboard in
when setting up/maintaining the computer, but otherwise operate without it.
If putting a computer in your car is a serious endeavour, you may want to
see if you can get your hands on a development system. A Motorola
M68HC16Z1EVB would make a great automotive based computer. It is a single
board computer with built in parallel I/O, serial port, and has analog input
capabilities. The processor is capable of some quite complicated timing
functions such as are used in spark timing and injector timing. It may be
hard to find one unless you or someone you know works in the electronics
industry.
I'd be interested with working with anybody who like to put a custom
computer in their car. I have a small supply of parts that could be used
for such a purpose, eg. swithing regulator ICs, seven segment displays,
analog to digital convertors etc. in addition to access to all the design
tools necessary for designing and building circuit boards.
Let me know what you think.
Ashley P.
81 Celica
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Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 17:15:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)"
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com"
Cc: "Supras (postings)"
Many of these topics are also discussed on the "DIY EFI" list. See below
for more info.
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
----------
================================================================
Do - It - Yourself Electronic Fuel Injection
================================================================
To subscribe: Send "subscribe DIY_EFI [address]" to
Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu. The request
must be in the body of the message; *not* the subject line.
For help: Send "help" to Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu.
To post: Send to "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
Charter: (subject to change)
This mailing-list is *strictly* dedicated to the discussion
of topics related to EFI design and modification. I would like
to see discussion on control algorithms, hardware, electronics,
and sensor/sensor-interface designs. Additionally, modification
and adaptations of OEM ECU's would also be welcomed.
This list is temporary, and its continuance depends on the
level of participation of its readers.
John S. Gwynne
WWW sites:
diy_efi http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi
http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/~aden/web-docs/efi332/332_index.html
Other related sites:
http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/
http://spbted.gtri.gatech.edu:80/hpe/hpe.html
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 21:24:39 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: FS: Simpson 3" 5-point belts, w/cam lock, Y-shoulder, $100.
OK everyone, spring is here and it's time to clean out my garage - and I'm
serious. The first thing to go - the Simpson belts. 3" red and black belts,
5-point cam lock, un-opened submarine belt, Y-shoulder (single point
mounting point) belt. Paid over $200 new from Simpson, just want to sell it
to a needy racer. $100 (shipping included, prepaid money order).
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: tire pressure for Celicas
To: micky@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (MICKY THUTIYAKUL)
Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 02:02:47 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> > >I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much
> > >change?
> > >
> > >Phil
> >
> > Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your
> > understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire
> > pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to
> > 35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire
> > pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling
> > characteristics (eg, understeer)
> >
> > Dave
> >
>
> If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should
> be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The
> reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front
> engined car, and the weight bias is more distributed to your front end
> (I'm not sure about the exact distribution numbers though). As the
> Celicas are front wheel drive cars, I do not see any predictable handling
> characteristics by increasing understeering. The front wheels would have
> less traction with increased understeering, which decreases handling. I
> would personally put more pressure in the rear and decrease pressure in
> the front tires, so that if loss of control occurs, the rear tires would
> break loose first and I could power my way back with the fronts.
>
> Later,
> Micky
> '89 SC MR2
>
According to the handling books I have and the SCCA rule book handling
guide, increasing tire pressure increases grip and decreasing tire pressure
decreases grip. So for less understeer (more oversteer), you'd want to have
more pressure in the front and less in the rear.
Aly
'85 MR2
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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 02:43:44 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: robmach@aye.net (Robin Mach)
Subject: Re: 286 CPU's
>"hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind
>of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display
>for it?
>
Being a severe techno-weenie myself, I'll stab at a few answers for you.
Some of the other folks are quite right about power consumption as far as
computers go. However, even a dinosaur motherboard is gonna eat less watts
than a halogen headlight. Your voltage requirements are going to be +12v (
thats a no brainer in a car ), +5v ( almost as easy as +12 ), -12v and -5v
which can supplied by a little electronic inverter without too much problem.
Displays are no big problem either, although you will have to be capable of
a little techno-hackery to pull it off. I am looking at an LCD graphic
display right now in a catalog ( details in a minute ) which can give you
the display capability of the top half of an average computer screen for
$32.95 There are a wide range of other displays available in the same
catalog for lower prices and resolutions. The same catalog offers an 8
channel A/D converter that works through a parallel port ( printer port )
for $79.95. Getting digital type information in and out can be handled any
number of ways, none of which are too complicated.
If you're serious about the idea, you can pick up a 386 motherboard,
small footprint, low low power consumption for about $50.00 basically on the
street corner.
The above referenced goodies, along with all kinds of other neat
elec-tech stuff, can be found in the catalog from:
Marlin P. Jones & Assoc.
P.O.B. 12685
Lake Park, FL 33403-0685
Voice 407-848-8236
Fax 800-432-9937
If nothing else this catalog is just a scream to look through. Another good
source would be Nuts & Volts magazine and Circuit Cellar Inc. You'll have
to track those down on your own though, as I don't have the info at hand for
them.
Lots of luck and keep us all posted on how it goes.
Robin
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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 11:58:36 +0200
To:
From: Chris Orasch
Subject: Brake Fluid
Hy everyone!!
I want to change the brake fluid on my 91MR2 but I'm not sure which fluid I
should use.
Does anyone know the Castrol SuperDisc DOT5.1? I don't know if it's silicone
based or not (it doesn't say anything about this on the bottle).
The other option would be the MultiFlux DOT4.
Any suggestions are welcome!
BTW, how much fluid do I need for a complete change?
Chris
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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 08:34:48 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock?
I have been hearing that a straight pipe is the way to go with the '91Turbo
MR2 - your bottom end will suffer, but the faster the exhaust can escape,
the faster the turbo can spool up - sound right? Anyway, has anyone seen a
straight pipe that goes from the front cat back to the stock muffler
locatiosn? That would come out of the cat, then split off to a Y, and come
out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much
better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but
performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes
(maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order?
Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide.
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 10:18:49 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford)
Subject: Re: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock?
Steve,
J.C. Whitney-- 312-431-6102 (p.182, my catalog) has straight pipe stainless
T304 in 3, 5, & 8' ft. lengths, all diams. from 2 to 3". Also
non-stainless tubing.
Monte
>I have been hearing that a straight pipe is the way to go with the '91Turbo
>MR2 - your bottom end will suffer, but the faster the exhaust can escape,
>the faster the turbo can spool up - sound right? Anyway, has anyone seen a
>straight pipe that goes from the front cat back to the stock muffler
>locatiosn? That would come out of the cat, then split off to a Y, and come
>out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much
>better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but
>performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes
>(maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order?
>
>Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide.
>
>Steve B.
>
>bagdon@rust.net
>http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
>Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
>-----------
>'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
>'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
>Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 14:27:57 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
At 11:58 AM 5/4/96 +0200, Chris Orasch wrote:
>Hy everyone!!
>
>I want to change the brake fluid on my 91MR2 but I'm not sure which fluid I
>should use.
>Does anyone know the Castrol SuperDisc DOT5.1? I don't know if it's silicone
>based or not (it doesn't say anything about this on the bottle).
>The other option would be the MultiFlux DOT4.
>Any suggestions are welcome!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol
Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb
water, virtually eliminating the need to change brake fluid in the future.
However, the drawback is that you need to COMPLETELY remove all traces of
your existing brake fluid, a major pain in the arse. The silicone based
brake fluids also tend to be slightly spongier as well as tougher to bleed
(not to mention more expensive!) I think that a DOT4 brake fluid would be a
better choice.
Dave
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Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 15:07:57 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Weak side mirrors
Hi! I was wondering if anyone else had this same problem and had any ideas
on how to fix it on my '81 Celica. Well, what happens is that when I start
going fast,(over 80mph) the side mirrors can't take the force from the wind
and move in, so that I can't see anything. I want new mirrors, but
something more substantial than the stock ones. Does any know if there are
mirrors from a different Toyota that will bolt on? Thanks, Dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 20:59:47 -0700
From: Joe Ernst
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Canel Subscription
Please cancel my subscription to this mailing list.
Thank You,
Joe Ernst
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 06:50:38 EDT
From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire pressure for Celicas
> If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should
be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The
reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front <
*************************************************************************
This is NOT correct. Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
Therefore, to reduce understeer, you must pump up
the fronts to increase their grip and/or reduce the rear pressure to
decrease their grip. This is a well-known autocross trick that actually
makes quite a bit of difference in the balance of the car. Just remember
that changing your pressures in this manner will wear out the middles or
your front tires and the edges of your rears.
Christopher T. Berchin
1988 MR2, fresh off the autocross course
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 08:47:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carey P Morris
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Carey P. Morris
Location : St. Louis, MO (O'Fallon)
Model : '87 Supra Turbo
Engine : 7MGTE
Mods : K&N Intake, HKS 75mm Exhaust (on order), HKS EVC III (not yet
installed)
email : cm7899@cec.wustl.edu
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 08:54:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carey P Morris
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: EVC III installation
I asked this question on the supras list but didn't get a response.
Maybe I should have asked here instead. Anyway...
I have an '87 Supra Turbo that I'm installing the EVC III on. The
installation instructions were a bit generic and I was looking for some
first hand info to guide me with the non-electrical part. Specifically,
placement inside the engine comparment and exactly which hoses to hook
into and where...etc.
I would just feel better about this with some first hand experience
guiding me or offering tips.
Thanks
Carey
'87 Supra Turbo
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:02:57 -0400
From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 3.0 Liter V6 Head Gasket Problems
I have heard from may sources that the 1990 to about 1993 3.0L V6 engines
whether used in the truck or 4-Runner (I have the 4-Runner) has a bad head
gasket design. I have talked to 2 people that this has happened to and they
indicated that the pass thru in the head gasket for the water jacket does not
have enough material and this is where it goes. And when it goes it dumps
coolant into the cylinder (I have heard number 6 and then again I have heard
number 1). I have been told that Toyota has since redesigned the head gasket
fixing the problem but is not issuing a recall for obvious warranty reasons.
I first learned about it from talking to a guy who was picking his up from the
dealer after having both head gaskets replaced to the tune of about $1200.
Needless to say he said he was going to sue them over it. When I confronted
the local dealer trying to find out what I could about the problem, of course
they didn't own up to anything but saying it could happen, and that it probably
would one day and that I should start saving my pennies now. Their response
thourghly pissed me off!
I have since heard via the net of Toyota on the west coast paying for the head
gasket replacement where here on the east coast, nobody at Toyota wants to own
up to anything. Does anyone know more about this problem, any recourse with
Toyota or should I go ahead and replace them (i.e. get them before they get me)
I really do not want to be stranded on a trip or anything should this happen.
The mere fact that Toyota redesigned the head gasket tells me they identified a
design flaw and corrected it. But the poor guys out there who still have the
flaw have to wait. Here in NC they also tell me that they know of engines in
excess of 150K miles that have not had the problem and that I should wait and
see if it really is a problem. I personally think they are trying to blow
sunshine up ther publics but myself.
Any knowledge of this or opinions?
Steve
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 09:07:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: Lance Heinrich
Subject: Re: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock?
To: S and K Bagdon
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Steve,
I've seen one... it's on my MR2. Unfortunately, it doesn't meet all your
criteria, specifically, it was custom manufactured by a local race car
fabricator :-( Has nice stainless tips, all mandrel bent bends, etc.
The only giveaway that its not stock is that the left side (driver's
side) pipe has most of the black soot in it, very little on the other one.
Lance.
---------------------------------------------------------------
| Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd.
| lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com
|
| 1991 MR2 Turbo
| Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged
On Sat, 4 May 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote:
> out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much
> better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but
> performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes
> (maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order?
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL
Subject: Re: tire pressure for Celicas
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 09:44:18 -0700 (PDT)
> This is NOT correct. Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
> Therefore, to reduce understeer, you must pump up
> the fronts to increase their grip and/or reduce the rear pressure to
> decrease their grip. This is a well-known autocross trick that actually
> makes quite a bit of difference in the balance of the car. Just remember
> that changing your pressures in this manner will wear out the middles or
> your front tires and the edges of your rears.
>
> Christopher T. Berchin
> 1988 MR2, fresh off the autocross course
> Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
>
From the responses to this I figure I must be wrong. Not being an
autocrosser myself, I admit that I have not read many books on the
subject and do not do too many successive quickturns required by the
sport. But based on my own experiences with tire pressures, my front
tires squeal alot less at the limit with lower pressures up front than in
the rear. High speed lane changes also feel more positive requiring less
steering input. I really don't have a bias towards any pressure setup,
but after a lot of experimenting, this was my conclusion. Is this all
psychological or what? The most I've ever runned with was 35 psi in the
fronts and and rear. Felt a little bouncy around the corners, so I never
upped it any higher. But if it'll make me take corners faster, I'm
willing to try :)
Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2
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Date: 06 May 96 12:55:08 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: "Steve B."
Cc: Geoff ,
Subject: Hesitation (fuel cut?)
Hello all,
Once again I'm looking for advice from you, my trusted technical advisors. ;-)
I have a slight (I hope) problem. I have the boost set at about 1 bar. As you
all know, when you are at WOT in third & fourth (fifth doesn't come into play
in the quarted mile yet...) the boost will spike (thanks to a manual controller)
a little past the actual setting. Well, when I spike, it feels like I'm
triggering
the fuel cut for a split second. I don't get any lights, and after the spike
settles
all is OK, but it's hampering my performance. I was at Long Island Dragway
yesterday, and my best MPH was only 95.998. I have has MPH as high as
100.09 at my current stage of modification. What could be causing this?
The only thing that I can think of is that perhaps the Supra knock sensor *is*
a little different than the MR2 and it's off a little with the timing? Any
questions/
comments will be greatly appreciated. As you all know, you can reach me at:
103617.1033@compuserve.com
Thanks for the help,
Larry S.
P.S. Cal, you are the newest addition to my problem mailing list. I hope you
don't
mind too much ;-)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Transmission Rebuild?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 12:30:43 -0600 (CDT)
From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One)
Forwarded message:
> From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Fri May 3 16:44:42 1996
> Message-Id: <199605032052.PAA02639@saucer.cc.umr.edu>
> Subject: Transmission Rebuild?
> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 15:52:45 -0600 (CDT)
> From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One)
> X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL20]
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
> Precedence: bulk
I, mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One), quote myself:
>
> Now it feels like the synchro's out in 2nd gear.
> A big crunch on upshift, can't downshift without double-clutch.
>
> My Haynes manual seems to think I'm not ready for transmission work. It
> does give the diagrams of how the thing goes together, though.
I got one response (thanks, Dirk) suggesting that 2nd gear synchros are
prone to go on this car (86 Cel GT-S). This would incline me away from
the junkyard option. Is there a place that might sell a high-performance,
better-than-stock type of synchro? 'Cause there's going to be some
stoplight action in this car's future, with hard shifts into 2nd.
Thanks. and sorry for following up my own request.
m.r.
--
"One might reasonably assume the employees of a comic strip would
have some sense of humor, puny and plebian though it may be."
POGO's Porky Pine, 1948 (Walt Kelly)
***********************mrages@umr.edu (Mark Rages)****************************
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Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 11:41:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora
Subject: Am I mad?? (probably!! ; )
To: Chris Myer ,
Well, I'm about to plunge into somethings I've ALWAYS wanted to do .. but I
thought I'd ask for some opinions first.
I've found a guy who prepares RX3 race cars. He's got an '87 MR2 burnt out
shell. It's been stripped and stored ... basically covered in light surface
rust ... nothing serious. the roof was slightly damaged when the car was
removed after the fire. The guy has bought a brand new roof for it - it's
still in the box. He paid $1000 (US$680) for it and $300 (US$200) for the
new roof .. he just wants $300 (US$200) to cover the roof cost ... basically
... he wants to get rid of it cos he loves rotaries more : )
He had the whole thing planned out to turn it into a race car .. so has LOTS
of great ideas .... including templates made up for camber plates .... roll
cage all worked out .. etc etc.
What the car needs:
interior, seats, harnesses, engine/wiring loom/computer, trans including
gear linkages to gear knob, fuel tank, doors, boot lid, paint job, rear
bumper/lights, windows, wheels/tyres, shocks, all plastic rubber, radiator
Ok .. what I have and how to replace these above things:
- Interior ... he's sourced a wrecked SC car and had arranged to buy all he
needed of this car .. i'd use the SCer brakes too .. they're bigger.
- Seats and harnesses .. buy new race ones
- Engine/wiring loom/computer/trans including gear linages to gear knob. I
HAVE ALL THIS!! Woo hoo ... I bought basically the whole engine etc from a
wrecked mr2 and have been rebuilding it. I though i could do up the head
and keep it realatively normal and CHEAP to start with. Cost is a big
factor here .. so only cheap mods will be made to start with ... air filter,
exhaust ... port/polish .. any other ideas? Once money is more abundant ..
either fully do the head .. cams, carbs etc .. or put in a 4AGZE.
- Fuel tank - buy from wrecked car
- Doors - buy from wrecked car
- boot lid/rear bumpers . can mold these in fibreglass using my own car as
a model (will just come out smelling of resin for a coupld of days)
- rear lights - buy off wrecked car
- windows - windscreen off wrecked car .. or new .... other windows
perspex.
- shocks - hey, i knew i bought those TRD shocks and race springs for
something .. they'll do til I can afford a REAL serious race setup ... i'll
see how it goes. : )
- all rubbers, bushes etc - off wrecked cars .. new bushes (poly) all
round
- wheels/tyres ... new.
- radiator .. off wrecked car
Also need to do:
FIRST: seam weld it .. put new roof on .. sand blast .. acid dip ... primer
.. paint. I can primer and paint it.
full roll cage
So... do ya think i'm mad?
I reacon .... being careful and starting out cheap to start with (using
basically stock engine etc) i can get it on the track for US$6,800
(NZ$10,000). THis is TRACK racing BTW .. not autocrossing. this will NOT
be a road car .. however ... i might want to drive it to the track cos i've
got nothing to tow it with!! ; )
Later
Mad Ade
'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2"
'87 Race MR2???
AdeM@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:52:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> [deleted]
> Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
> [deleted]
>
The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 17:49:01 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
>The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
>autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
>the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
Yes, this is true. Personnally I run 38psi front and 39psi rear on my car on
the track. I only use these tires for autocross so that's where I leave them,
but my street tires are 32 psi. Chris' point was that it's possible to
increase grip to a certain point, then it stops to fall off (so don't inflate
those babies to 60 psi and expect it to help!!!) :)
BTW, in autocross if I run any less PSI than this I start rolling the tire
down onto the sidewall where there is no grip. On the street you don't put
the same forces into the tire as on the track (well, I do sometimes...).
I run my Probe GT at 28 front and 24 rear, so it's all up to you and the
ride quality and handling you want, depending on your car, the setup, the
weight distribution, springs, etc. etc.
Dave A.
*** Forwarding note from I1742083--IBMMAIL 05/06/96 16:13 ***
Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:52:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
> [deleted]
> Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
> [deleted]
>
The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles
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Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 15:39:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Seeley
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
David Rees wrote:
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol
> Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb
You are wrong :-) DOT5 is silicone based, but DOT5.1 is not.
To answer the posters original question, I use the following in my '91 MR2t:
Motul racing brake fluid 600, DOT 4, 100% synthetic fluid, 585(F)/307(C)
boiling point.
Geoff
'91MT2t, 172,000km
http://mr2.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 15:59:34 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas
>Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
>> [deleted]
>> Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will
>> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again.
>> [deleted]
>>
>The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
>autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
>the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct?
>
>Phil
The maximum COLD infatable pressure is 35psi. The temps can easily climb
into the 40-45 psi range while driving. I'm not sure if they mean 40-45
cold or warm though. Tire manufactureres usually build a margin of saftey
into their tires, especially high performance tires. You probably could run
up to 40 psi cold pressures without a problem on the track. Correct me if
I'm wrong though!!! Don't want to cause a tire blowout!
Dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 16:28:10 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
>From: Geoff Seeley
>David Rees wrote:
>
>> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol
>> Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb
>
>You are wrong :-) DOT5 is silicone based, but DOT5.1 is not.
>
>To answer the posters original question, I use the following in my '91 MR2t:
>
>Motul racing brake fluid 600, DOT 4, 100% synthetic fluid, 585(F)/307(C)
>boiling point.
>
>Geoff
I thought I could be, do you know if you have to be as careful with cleaning
out your brake system with DOT5.1 as you do with DOT5? (I still think DOT4
is one of the best way to go...)
dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 07 May 1996 07:07:47 EDT
From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire Pressure
> The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you
autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce
the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct? <
That is correct. I drive to the local events with the air already in
the tires and feel every pebble on the street. The car is quite
responsive, however, almost hyperactive. Then I bleed them down for
the ride home.
Christopher T. Berchin
1988 MR2
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 07 May 1996 09:25:00 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tires (autocross)
Just wondering, does anyone have a set of good autocross tires they want
to get rid of? I'm thinking Yokohama A008RSII or BFG R1, size 185/60R14.
They don't need to be "like new," but "no cords" would be nice...
:)
Thanks!
..............
Dave A.
1986 MR2s, one green, one silver
daucott@e-mail.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 11:00:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: An-Hong Chien
To: Raikkonen Timo
Cc: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list"
Subject: RE: converting *TC to 2TG (and big bore = 2 liter)
hi there.....u guys were talking about porting. i have a 1987 mr2 and
want more power. i was wondering how much porting would cost me and
where i can get itdone. thanks in advance
dave
On Tue, 7 May 1996, Raikkonen Timo wrote:
>
> Hello Monte!
>
> MONTE:
> Please tell me if this is correct:
>
> In the 2TG, the two timing gears are both contained inside the head, so
> that if I buy a *complete* head, the gears should be there.
>
> Is the chain tensioner also in the head?
>
> The 2TG has lower compression pistons, hmmmm. Then I'd have to buy
> a new set of pistons to get high compression (somewhere around 11:1).
> Hmmm.
>
> TIMO:
> The 2T-Gxx head's are good heads flowing 140-150hp in stock form
> and with porting they flow 200-215hp (stock valves) - I have done it :).
> In comparison 2T head flows in stock form about 90-100hp and with
> porting about 150hp (this isn't as exact informatiion as above in 2T-Gxx
> case - ecxactly 2T-GEU with xxxxx251 head). Older twincam heads are
> Toyota heads and have xxxxx222 or something else xxxxx2xx code -
> the 222 head is with bigger valves and is the latest Toyota head. Then
> came Yamaha heads ( and they all had bigger valves - don't remmeber
> the size). Yamaha heads were also a lot better design than Toyota
> heads. Yamaha heads are called xxxxxx250 or 251 (I had 251 - don't
> know what is the difference between 250 or 251). U can also differ
> Toyota head from Yamaha head by looking the front of the head and
> the elliptical cover plate - in Toyota head the plate is in horisontal
> position and in Yamaha head it's rotated to the left a little (some 20
> degree). 18-RG heads also has tilted cover plate in the front of the
> head - don't mess these look for the code I mentioned above, and
> usually there are labels on this cover witch head is in case.
>
> The complete head should keep inside cams, gears (and small pins
> to keep them locked to the cam), chain tensioner (it's in the front left of
> the head pointing to the direction where distributor is), valve cover and
> oil fill cap. Then need that chain that is also available cheaply in
> stores - if u have old chain as model u can go and get stock chain the
> same size to replace teh old one - I recommend to do this. Then u shoulg
> get the short cam that should have thesetwo gearas attached - check the
> gears for cracked "teeths" (in case somebody has dropped them -
> otherwise they last long :).
>
> "Newer" 2T-GEU "smock"-engines from '80 had 8.4 compression and
> older 9.4 to 9.8 and 10.1 at least to my memory... u could check these out.
>
> This 8.4 2T-GEU is "good" for turbo charging - as I did :) It could handle
> the mild boost (0.5 bar or even more) quite well, but if going further (ie.
> 0.9
> bar) swap to forced pistons like VW Beetle (Mahle or Shima).
>
> MONTE:
> Do you have any experience with the 3TC connecting rods. If so, do you
> think that 3TC connecting rods are up to the demands of a 2 litre/200 hp
> version of a 2TG? Do you think this bottom would reliably handle 220-225
> hp if turbo-charged? My use is enthusiastic street driving.
>
> Thanks very much for your reply.
>
> Monte
>
> TIMO:
> Yes I have built from 2T-GEU a turbo charged a bit over 2 liter engine. I
> used 3T connection rods and VW 90.5 pistons (take the short ones -
> meaning that the diameter from wrist pin to the top of the piston should
> be specific depending what compression u want - this way has been
> built turbo & non turbo "big bore" 2TG engines with succes).
>
> The block and base engine was from '82 Celica GT. The block take
> this 5.5mm bore very well and is still in one peace after many years
> of hard driving - older blocks though has been damaged when trying
> to bore so... The VW pistons should be fitted so that the arrow points
> to the flywheel becouse VW engines rotates to the opposite way as
> 2TG and others inline 4's etc. (this is if u have pistons that have wrist
> pins that are not in the center of the piston). U also have to make/
> allow the wrist pin to move in the pin (in stock VW piston it's not
> moving) becouse the connection rod in 2TG is pressure fitted in the
> wrist pin. This operation will work - done that :) The piston doesn't
> require any machining when bulding a turbo engine with "flat" VW
> pistons and stock cams.
>
> Stock head gasget is good to 1.0 bar above that steel gagsget is
> needed ( I haven't found steel gasget for 2TG with 90.5 bore =(.
>
> The 3T connecting rods are the same as 2T or 2TG, only the pistons
> and crankshaft is different - so u need only crank and VW pistons to
> build a big bore 2TG. 3T crank is heavy compared to 2TG crank but
> will rew like hell in this big bore 2TG... :) The botomend will take with
> stock bearings easily 200-300hp if not rewwed very high - this will
> kill bearings. I had in my big bore 2T-GE turbo stock bearings and
> some 250hp and it was all season street car.
>
> -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi)
>
> PS. Other 2TG dudes here can correct this if necessary and add
> comments for your benefit.
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 12:29:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Seeley
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
David Rees wrote:
> I thought I could be, do you know if you have to be as careful with cleaning
> out your brake system with DOT5.1 as you do with DOT5? (I still think DOT4
> is one of the best way to go...)
I seem to remember reading that DOT5.1 is compatible/mixable with DOT3/4...
(Wish I had saved those postings to rec.autos.* now...)
I would try DOT5.1 if I could find it here, but DOT4 is good enough. I think
DOT5 should only be used in racing applications and in situations where
you might completely replace the brake line system (ie. classic car rebuild)
I also remember reading about the fact that DOT5 should NOT be used in ABS
systems...
Geoff
'91MR2t, 172,100km
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Raikkonen Timo
To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list"
Subject: RE: converting *TC to 2TG (and big bore = 2 liter)
Date: Tue, 07 May 96 14:00:00 PDT
Hello Monte!
MONTE:
Please tell me if this is correct:
In the 2TG, the two timing gears are both contained inside the head, so
that if I buy a *complete* head, the gears should be there.
Is the chain tensioner also in the head?
The 2TG has lower compression pistons, hmmmm. Then I'd have to buy
a new set of pistons to get high compression (somewhere around 11:1).
Hmmm.
TIMO:
The 2T-Gxx head's are good heads flowing 140-150hp in stock form
and with porting they flow 200-215hp (stock valves) - I have done it :).
In comparison 2T head flows in stock form about 90-100hp and with
porting about 150hp (this isn't as exact informatiion as above in 2T-Gxx
case - ecxactly 2T-GEU with xxxxx251 head). Older twincam heads are
Toyota heads and have xxxxx222 or something else xxxxx2xx code -
the 222 head is with bigger valves and is the latest Toyota head. Then
came Yamaha heads ( and they all had bigger valves - don't remmeber
the size). Yamaha heads were also a lot better design than Toyota
heads. Yamaha heads are called xxxxxx250 or 251 (I had 251 - don't
know what is the difference between 250 or 251). U can also differ
Toyota head from Yamaha head by looking the front of the head and
the elliptical cover plate - in Toyota head the plate is in horisontal
position and in Yamaha head it's rotated to the left a little (some 20
degree). 18-RG heads also has tilted cover plate in the front of the
head - don't mess these look for the code I mentioned above, and
usually there are labels on this cover witch head is in case.
The complete head should keep inside cams, gears (and small pins
to keep them locked to the cam), chain tensioner (it's in the front left of
the head pointing to the direction where distributor is), valve cover and
oil fill cap. Then need that chain that is also available cheaply in
stores - if u have old chain as model u can go and get stock chain the
same size to replace teh old one - I recommend to do this. Then u shoulg
get the short cam that should have thesetwo gearas attached - check the
gears for cracked "teeths" (in case somebody has dropped them -
otherwise they last long :).
"Newer" 2T-GEU "smock"-engines from '80 had 8.4 compression and
older 9.4 to 9.8 and 10.1 at least to my memory... u could check these out.
This 8.4 2T-GEU is "good" for turbo charging - as I did :) It could handle
the mild boost (0.5 bar or even more) quite well, but if going further (ie.
0.9
bar) swap to forced pistons like VW Beetle (Mahle or Shima).
MONTE:
Do you have any experience with the 3TC connecting rods. If so, do you
think that 3TC connecting rods are up to the demands of a 2 litre/200 hp
version of a 2TG? Do you think this bottom would reliably handle 220-225
hp if turbo-charged? My use is enthusiastic street driving.
Thanks very much for your reply.
Monte
TIMO:
Yes I have built from 2T-GEU a turbo charged a bit over 2 liter engine. I
used 3T connection rods and VW 90.5 pistons (take the short ones -
meaning that the diameter from wrist pin to the top of the piston should
be specific depending what compression u want - this way has been
built turbo & non turbo "big bore" 2TG engines with succes).
The block and base engine was from '82 Celica GT. The block take
this 5.5mm bore very well and is still in one peace after many years
of hard driving - older blocks though has been damaged when trying
to bore so... The VW pistons should be fitted so that the arrow points
to the flywheel becouse VW engines rotates to the opposite way as
2TG and others inline 4's etc. (this is if u have pistons that have wrist
pins that are not in the center of the piston). U also have to make/
allow the wrist pin to move in the pin (in stock VW piston it's not
moving) becouse the connection rod in 2TG is pressure fitted in the
wrist pin. This operation will work - done that :) The piston doesn't
require any machining when bulding a turbo engine with "flat" VW
pistons and stock cams.
Stock head gasget is good to 1.0 bar above that steel gagsget is
needed ( I haven't found steel gasget for 2TG with 90.5 bore =(.
The 3T connecting rods are the same as 2T or 2TG, only the pistons
and crankshaft is different - so u need only crank and VW pistons to
build a big bore 2TG. 3T crank is heavy compared to 2TG crank but
will rew like hell in this big bore 2TG... :) The botomend will take with
stock bearings easily 200-300hp if not rewwed very high - this will
kill bearings. I had in my big bore 2T-GE turbo stock bearings and
some 250hp and it was all season street car.
-Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi)
PS. Other 2TG dudes here can correct this if necessary and add
comments for your benefit.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: 07 May 96 23:58:54 EDT
From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com>
To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c"
Subject: Air Flow Sensor
If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
smog though since I'm in CA.
Thanks for the Help,
Alex
91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: KipAnderso@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 00:11:57 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Crash!!!
Just a quick note to anybody who's not received a response from me in the
last few days.
I got to monkeying around with installing some new software and totally
crashed
Windows 95 in the process. Since my net programs (AOL excluded - phew!) are
all 32 bit,
I'm having to make do with what still works.
To make this appropriate to both lists, I must inform you all that I've
modified my MR2 by tying all of those crummy little Windows 95 disks to
strings that I will drag about town until there is nothing left.
Please direct all responses directly to me since I'm not subscribed to either
list from this account and may not be able to access the other account for
another week or more (my OS is a shambles).
Kip Anderson
kipanderso@aol.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 00:33:26 -0700
To: Alex Pun <75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
At 11:58 PM 5/7/96 EDT, Alex Pun wrote:
>If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
>have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
>smog though since I'm in CA.
>
>Thanks for the Help,
>
>Alex
>91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
Actually, if you removed the air flow sensor, your car wouldn't run. The
air filter kits just bolt up to the air flow sensor.
% Aric Shen %
% Speedline Racing Concepts %
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 %
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com %
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted %
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic %
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 07:24:43 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: Alex Pun <75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>
Cc: Toyota Modifications Server
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
Alex Pun wrote:
>
> If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
> have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
> smog though since I'm in CA.
>
> Thanks for the Help,
>
> Alex
> 91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
nope, you install any type of air filtration upgrade before the airflow meter. Without it, the engine won't
run (unless you have an HKS VPC of course). Also, changing the filter shouldn't affect anything that has to do
with your smog devices.
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'"
From: Tony York
Subject: Return of the juddering brakes !
Date: Wed, 08 May 96 07:28:41 PDT
Some of might remember that I had a problem with my steering being
stiff and my brakes juddering. Well I fixed the steering problem.
That was the UJ, but the juddering brakes are back. I don't think it
is the discs because they are new from Toyota (standard i'm afraid).
I have a new CV boot that I haven't fitted yet as I was told it was a
very time consuming job and I have been very busy lately.
Any ideas, please this is really starting to bug me ??
Tony York
1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS
Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour: White
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles: 101000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 08:35:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jayson Entao
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: NZ Endurance Race
Here's some interesting results from the South Island (NZ)
Endurance Championship, which was 3 three-hour races with a pit stop,
fuel fill and driver change...I ganked this from the honda list...
-----------------------------------
These are the results of the first race:
Place Laps Class Car
1) 163 C Chevy Lumina TranzAm 6 litre V8
2) 160 C Series 2 Mazda RX7 turbo
3) 155 C Ford Sierra RS 500 2litre turbo
4) 152 B BMW 2l touring car
5) 149 C Series 1 Mazda RX7 turbo
6) 148 A Honda CRX 1600 VTEC
7) 147 C Toyota MR2 turbo <---------Go Toyota!
8) 145 B Honda Integra 1800 vtec
9) 146 B Mazda RX7
10) 145 C Porsche 911sc
11) 145 A Toyota Starlet 1600 <---------Yeah! =)
12) 145 C Mitsubishi Lancer 1600 turbo
13) 144 A Toyota Corolla 1600
14) 144 A Toyota Truneo 1600
15) 141 A Honda Civic 1600 vtec
16) 141 B Toyota Celica 2000 6 cylinder
17) 141 A Toyota Starlet 1600
18) 140 A Nissan Sentra 1600
19) 138 C Holden Commodore 5L V8
20) 136 B Mazda RX3
21) 135 A '87 Honda Civic 1600 DOHC
22) 134 A Peugeot 106 1300
23) 129 B Datson 180 B
---------------------------------
-Jayson
Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Seeley
To: mr2-digest@validgh.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: G-Tech Pro Grou Purchase
*Please* reply to rsalerno@li.net if you are interested, I'm just forwarding
this for Russ... (I have nothing to do with this, other than ordering one for
myself :-)
---------- Begin Forwarded Message ----------
>From rsalerno@li.net Mon May 6 21:32:43 1996
Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 00:14:50 -0400
To: Martin Scarr ,
Steve Hauswirth ,
Michael Gregory ,
Charles Baldridge ,
Micah Thompson ,
Robert Vautrain ,
Frank Szymkowski ,
Brad Davis , Chris Bonisa ,
Spiff , stratcat ,
Wayne Campbell , Mark Murphy ,
"Roger M. Corman" ,
Mike Goetz , BLTHEDE@INDYVAX.IUPUI.EDU,
Iceman@cris.com, Geoff Seeley ,
"Dink" , dan@rsinc.com,
Harg Tholan ,
Richard Moburg ,
Phil , Jan Ben ,
Michael Shawstad ,
Jack Marino , Perry ,
Gary Hoffman ,
Terry Hartman , Rune Ydstebo ,
Arya Behzad , Brandon
From: rsalerno@li.net (Russell Salerno)
Subject: G-Tech Pro Grou Purchase
I'm sending this to everyone who expressed an interest in the G-Tech... it
will be going out to the lists shortly. If you would like to get one at a
discount read on.
-Russ
--------------
If you wish to participate in the G-Tech Pro group purchase here are the
details. The purchase is open to members of the GN/T-Type list, F-Body
list, and Sy-Ty list.
1) We need to purchase a minimum of 12 units to qualify for the
group discount.
2) Price is $89.95 US, plus $10 to cover shipping and handling.
Total cost is $99.95 US.
3) Payment is in advance, in US dollars, by certified check or
US Postal Service money order ONLY. Other forms of payment
cannot be accepted and will be returned. Please do not ask
for exceptions.
4) Once we have a commitment for at least 12 units, everyone will
be asked to mail their payment to the coordinator (me I guess).
The coordinator will make a list of ship-to addresses, and
forward the list along with payment to Tesla Electronics.
Tesla will ship each unit directly to the recipient.
5) If, at the end of three weeks we cannot get commitments for at
least 12 units, the group purchase will likely be cancelled.
I've tried to outline everything so that there will be no confusion or
misunderstandings. If you want to participate, please send email to
rsalerno@li.net with the subject "G-Tech Group Purchase". Please include
your name, shipping address, day & evening home number, and quantity
desired.
That's it. If I've forgotten anything, or if you have any questions please
let me know.
-Russ Salerno
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Russ Salerno '89 Turbo T/A #907 rsalerno@li.net |
| finger for PGP key |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
----------- End Forwarded Message -----------
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 13:17:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora
Subject: RE: Wind deflectors
To: Toyota Mods
> The reason for the wind deflectors is to minimize the amount of "boom" in
the
> car at speed. By breaking up the air with the deflector the low frequency
> resonance (aka: boom) is reduced.
I get this boom on my '86 T-Top .... doesn't worry me if i wind my windows
down about 3/4".
Ade : )
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 17:39:50 -0400 (EDT)
To: Aric Shen
From: celica GT-R
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
i have the Gracer Airinx filter in my celica, which also has a mass air sensor, and all i needed was a little metal adapter for the MAF sensor to connect to the new filter, and then a gracer adapter that connects from the regular adapter(other filters fit onto the 1st adapter, but the Gracer Airinx needs another one-at least in my car) to the actual air filter. that is a hella good filter, but i'm currently trying a new one made up here in northern cali. it's the Weapon-R filter made by Revolutions Motorsports in Burlingame (near Frisco). i just picked it up to try it, and it's a very good copy(almost exact) of the greddy filter, and waaaaay cheaper. the regular weapon-R filter is only like 35-40 bucks and it comes in hella different colors. i might actually sell the gracer to a friend pretty soon because i like the new filter so much...obviously, i havent told him about weapon-R yet, heheh. it'll save ya some dinero so i would check it out, but wait a couple weeks when the!
"Airv
antage plus" comes out. this one is an exact duplicate of the greddy filter, with the cool mesh cage and all, but it's supposed to produce more hp...so in case you dont have it by then, i'll sell ya my filter in two weeks! call up REVolutions at (415)259-9REV and ask for Leo or Aaron...
>-) (asian smiley face)
antonio
celica GT-R
aponton@concentric.net
At 12:33 AM 5/8/96 -0700, you wrote:
>At 11:58 PM 5/7/96 EDT, Alex Pun wrote:
>>If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I
>>have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass
>>smog though since I'm in CA.
>>
>>Thanks for the Help,
>>
>>Alex
>>91 Yellow MR2 Turbo
>
>Actually, if you removed the air flow sensor, your car wouldn't run. The
>air filter kits just bolt up to the air flow sensor.
>
>% Aric Shen %
>% Speedline Racing Concepts %
>% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 %
>% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com %
>% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted %
>& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic %
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 10:06:29 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Greetings!
My name is Phil Bradshaw and I now have the technology to join this group. I
am presently a final year Manufacturing and Industrial Technology Student at
Massey University in Palmerston North, New Zealand, and I have to use the
campus' computer facilities. I'm ordinarily an Engineering Officer in the NZ
Navy, and am being sponsored thru' the degree. Being 30 years old, I am
supposed to be a 'mature student', but that is open to debate.
Enough of the boring stuff.
My car is a 'Leitch Super Sprint' which is a Lotus/Caterham 7 replica built
by a company in Invercargill, NZ. It is similar to a 'Fraser' for those
familiar with the NZ kit car industry. I built the car from a kit in 1992,
and initially ran a 1983 blue and black top 4AGE that I liberated from a
AE86 Levin that lost an arguement with a lampost. That engine lasted 23,000
miles before it died on a race track, so now it runs a 1991 1587 cc 120kW 20
valve. Yes, that's the VVT motor you lot have been writing about. I put the
motor in myself, and have written some magazine articles about it for the
Sports Car Club of NZ, which have been published.
I believe I have a reasonable amount of knowledge and experience, especially
as I wired up the Fraser in Hamilton with the 20 valve over xmas. My car has
covered some 23,000 miles on the 20 valve and goes great. I have the
magazine articles in word 6 format, so let me know what to do/where to send
them. Look forward to meeting the mods group, and learning your protocols!
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Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 18:49:12 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name :Kelly Carter
Location:College Station, Texas, USA
Model :1989 MR2
Engine :4A-GE, TVIS
Mods :coming up on 100,000mi and plan to rebuild and modify
email :kcarter@archone.tamu.edu
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (celica GT-R)
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 21:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Speaking of air-filters, I have a customized setup using a medium-sized
HKS filter. The person who installed it the first time had to make a
bracket to fit the square housing on the air-flow sensor. He made it out
of plastic. Needless to say it was not very strong as it broke off one
day at the base of the bracket. I only noticed it was broken when the
engine or exhaust, for that matter became relatively louder. LUckily he
ordered a bracket from HKS which is what I have on right now. Nice steel
bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS
have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was
thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of
mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery
is right smack in front of the airfilter. I'm also not too convinced that
the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is
effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways?
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From: Richard Leong
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (celica GT-R)
Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 21:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
I apoligize if this looks like an episode of 20 questions, but I get very
curious when someone performs a major "makeover" of a Celica, especially
the '86-89 models. A really nice "done-up" car of this generation is a
rare find, at least in my part of town.
> Engine: Rebuilt 2SE
What car does a 2SE come from by the way?
> Modifications: Gracer Airinx intake filter
> Sebring exhaust with 2 1/4" pipes
> Magnecor performance ignition cables
> NGK-R sparkplugs
Do you notice any performance gain from the Magnecor and NGK plugs. How
are these plugs different from the stock ones. I have NGK on mine by the
way. One of my wires had gone dead too in the past, which was quite
unhealthy for the engine actually. Oh, what muffler do you use? Funny I
have Sebring as part of the exhaust too, but just the tip. Muffler's
Borla on mine
>
> Tokico sport springs
> Tokico shocks (getting them in two weeks)
> Custom strut tower brace
> 16 inch rims (not chrome)with 215/40/R16 tires
> Suspension techniques sway bars (getting them with the shocks)
> Z-speed racing lugnuts
> Piaa 1000 white driving lights
> Saab side markers(heheheh)
The first time I saw the descrioption on your car, I seriously thought of
mine. I also run 215/40/16. I run P700's. Reason being I didn't want
the BF goodrich. The ideal size would be 215/45/16, but I believe
continental only sells them, DOn't know if I can find them in my area
though. I also run PIaa lights, 959's though. I switch the lenses for
910's in the summer, great illumination in the dark. I'm also
consirering H&R springs with Koni shocks because I would like to adjust
the shocks and H&R lowers 1/4inch more than the Eibach's
>
> Momo "Champion" steering wheel
> Momo "Race Air" shift knob
> Razo aluminum pedals
>
I'm assuming you have a GTS model. Did you have the cruise-control on
your steering wheel also? I'm wondering what I would have to do if I
planned on changing the steering wheel. What 'bout the pedals? Nice
fit? I would sure love a set, stock pedals feel a little small, and they
don't have a firm base. Ever considered a quick-shift knob? Some guy
told me C's makes one for the car, maybe he was wrong. Would be nice
though, that stock stick is allfully long and knotchy.
Richard
| '86 Celica GTS |
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 15:12:51 +1000 (EST)
From: Justin Simpson
To: Bill Sherwood
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Cam Timing.
Hi Bill, well i've dialled the cams in as close to factory specs as i can
(not having a vernier cam gear) which resulted in the following.
These were all measured at 1 mm lift.
Exhaust opens 32 deg before BDC and closes 3 deg after TDC with maximum lift
at 105 deg before TDC. The inlet opens at 5 deg before TDC and closes at 26
deg after BDC with max lift at 104 deg after TDC. It's not immediately
apparent how to measure the overlap but it looks to me like 58 deg around
BDC with a further 8 deg around TDC but I'm not sure what this means as
these are crank angles and the cams rotate at half the rate etc etc and
my brain is starting to hurt. Whatever the overlap just by eyeballing the
cams i would say it's as little as you could possibly get ie. at TDC the
No.1 cam lobes are pointing directly away from each other. Serious
burrowing through my turbo textbook library finally turned up a vague
reference stating a maximum overlap of 50-60 deg was desirable for a
turboed motor but this was for a pushrod boat anchor and may not apply to
a higher reving twincam. I'd really appreciate
any comments on this set up you would care to make (and anyone else for
that matter) if only for peace of mind (mine). Thanks.
Cheers
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
On Sun, 17 Dec 1995, Bill Sherwood wrote:
> I finally rang my other home and got the numbers on cam timing
> that I was after. As a _general_ rule, but one that seems to
> apply to the majority of set-ups, the exhaust cam must be set at
> 100 crank degrees and the inlet at 102 degrees.
> WHAT THE HECK DOES THAT MEAN, BILL?
> Ok, I'm glad you asked. (Uh-oh, the complex bit...)
> The measurement is taken from the top of the cam lobe and is
> the number of degrees the crankshaft must be turned to bring
> the cam lobe parallel with the valve centreline. The measurements
> are taken from # 1 cylinder.
> What it should look like is this - with the crank at TDC #1,
> the #1 cam lobes will be pointing away from each other, angled
> down towards the ground at a slight angle.
> To check the timing, turn the crank, and at 100 degrees crank
> rotation, the exhaust cam lobe should be pointing exactly away
> from the exhaust valve along the valve's axis.
> With the crank 102 degrees before TDC #1, the inlet cam lobe
> should be pointing exactly away from the inlet valve along the
> valve's axis.
> All these measurements can only be made with an accurate
> dialgauge.
>
> *** Note - it is EXTREMELY inportant to accurately measure
> TDC # 1. The manufacturers mark on the crank pulley is not good
> enough! To get an accurate TDC, what you do is this - take out
> # 1 sparkplug, then the dialgauge (measuring 0.001" increments)
> set the piston 0.050" down the bore both on just before TDC and
> just after TDC. Mark the degree wheel on the front of the crank
> both times - the point exactly between both marks is exactly
> TDC. (Toyota are normally pretty good, _of course!_)
> Now the fiddly part - you have to do the process
> again for both the cams. When you set the cam timing, if you
> have to advance or retard the cam, then you have to measure
> the cam lobe TDC all over again..... Fun, huh? If you're
> not that serious (don't blame you!), then if you are careful
> whilst reading the dialgauge you can get a reasonably practical
> reading on cam lobe TDC just by watching the needle as the
> cam rotates under it. Before I forget, you have to get some
> sort of ferrous metal plate for the dialgauge to sit on
> (most have a magnetic clamp), because Toyota only make alloy
> heads.
>
> Other notes - You may have guessed it isn't an easy thing to
> do. Don't try this at home without supervision! ;-) If you
> aren't careful, then you stand a fair chance of bending a
> valve (usually in multiple of two ...)
> - Some cams are made a tad differently - they need 106 deg for
> both cams. Check with the cam guy. Also insist that the lobes
> are machined very accurately with respect to each other. It's
> surprising common to have the lobes as much as 2 deg out (they
> all have to be 90.0 deg apart.)
> - Some cams have asymmetric lobes! You can't get cam lobe TDC
> using the method I've described. Asy cams are quite rare
> for twin cams, though. (A lot of the good Datsun/Nissan
> cams for 'L' series are.)
>
> Bye now,
> Billzilla. Grrrr.
>
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 00:56:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: Richard Leong
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor
Hi Richard,
On Wed, 8 May 1996, Richard Leong wrote:
> bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS
> have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was
>
When I get a chance to fiddle with the air box, I was thinking about
putting a large hole on the side of the air box, facing the brake booster,
and running flexible piping from the hole down past the fuel filter.
> thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of
> mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery
> is right smack in front of the airfilter.
>
I think that any sort of tube routed near the exhaust manifold shield
would definitely be the same as sucking in warm engine air. Yeah, it
would be nice if the batter was on the other side.
> I'm also not too convinced that
> the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is
> effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways?
>
The plastic tube opens up behind the left front headlight. The other
possibility would be to remove the front fender and substitute a larger
tube for the current plastic tube.
Speaking of freeing up restriction, I have doubts about the amount of
flow the AFM allows. I don't know about the flap in the AFM.
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles
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Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 08:02:34 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Chris Hilliard
Subject: me/mine/mods
Hey folks,
I changed to a new server so I thought I would re-do my
mods,etc. list
so here it goes:
Name: Chris Hilliard
Location: Jackson,TN
Make: Toyota Corolla TE-51 Liftback
Engine: 2T-C 1588 cc Hemi
Tranny: T-40
Mods: Weber DGAV 32/36 progressive carb
Late 80's Toyota alloy rims
Pirelli P-44 P185-70R-13
E-mail: tojo@aeneas.net
This is my new e-mail address so remember it's still
me when you see a post,etc.
See ya later
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Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 08:04:13 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Intake on GTS
*** Resending note of 05/09/96 07:58
I can't speak for the Celica GTS, but on the MKI MR2 (4AGE) you can remove the
airbox entirely and replace it with a nice 5" cone filter. I've found with
the header and HKS exhaust it has made quite a difference in my car's
performance. I have details if you need them on how to do it.
..............
Dave Aucott
1986 MR2
daucott@e-mail.com
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 07:29:50 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: FS: 5 '85 MR2 aluminum rims w/balanced tires, $185 + shipping
The garage (literally) sale continues. The racing belts got a *great*
response, so here's a real space saver for me - I want my garage back!
5 (full-sized spare anyone?) '85 MR2 rims, w/balanced tires. All tires are
185/60-14, all are balanced. Spare is a Pirelli, with 5k miles on it. Other
4 are Yokohama A-509s, with about 20k miles on them. Figure the A-509s are
good for 60k normal street/highway driving.
Use them for racing. Mount them on the car and beat the heck out of them.
Get 5 rims/tires for less then 4 mounted tires. Just give me my garage
space back! :-)
$185 + shipping, so local buyers are greatly recommended. That's basically
1/2 off the salvage yard cost for the rim alone, and the tires are
basically for free. Figure $7-$10/per for shipping at least, so if you
aren't local make sure you aren't in California. :)
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
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Date: 09 May 96 16:27:02 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: Dave Abitol
Cc: "Steve B." ,
Subject: Quality is NOT job #1
Well folks,
As most of you remember me complaining about how I was without my car
for about 5 1/2 weeks starting Feb 2 due to Tranny Re-build. Since I got the
car back, it has seen the shop about 3 times for complaints under warranty
to be fixed. Leaking oil, slight grinding etc.... Last evening I was looking
at
my car up on a lift and noticed something VERY disturbing. I had been
hearing a slight noise from the trannyish location under the car since I got
the car back but neither myself, or anyone else for that matter, could figure
out what it was. They all told me I was just imagining it, or it was the
linkage
or something. SupraDave;) happened to notice that the motor mount bolts
fot he front motor mount were MISSING!! Now that's the last straw!! My friggin
engine could have ripped from the other mount and caused MAJOR damage!
About a week ago when I replaced the knock sensor, I noticed that they had
broken the bolt that holds the two braces that come together into a sort of 'Y'
from the tranny to the suspension and from the clutch housing to the suspension.
Since they didn't feel the need to drill out the old bolt and replace it, they
just
decided to tighten the other ends of the support bars and leave well enough
alone. After an IRATE phone call this morning, the service mgr decided to let
me bring the car in to the shop tomorrow and they will fix it. Anyone out there
know of anything that I can do?? I think they should not only give me some
money back ($2200 spent on rebuild) but I want to write to the better business
bureau or something!! I'm REALLY PISSED! Anyways, I'm just letting off some
steam. Thanks for listening.
Later,
Larry S.
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From: Dan Jones
Subject: W50 Transmission
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 16:27:51 CDT
Hi All,
I've recently purchased a transmission that I believe to be a Toyota
W50 5 speed. It has a cast iron case and an aluminum tail housing.
This transmission is mounted to an all aluminum 1962 3.5L Buick V8
engine that was previously installed in a 1932 Ford street rod.
I intend to put the Buick/Toyota drivetrain in my 1977 Triumph TR7.
My question is does anyone know what the gear ratios are? I'm not
on your list, so please email me directly at m203253@ws2200.mdc.com
Thanks,
Dan Jones,
St.Louis, Missouri
m203253@ws2200.mdc.com
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From: Matti Kalalahti
Subject: Track day report...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:38:25 +0300 (EET DST)
Hi y'all, the Carina is not yet ready, injector capacity ends
at just over 200hp, reaching stochiometric at 240hp. So I run
it now at 203hp. Anyway, the races came and went, read on to know
how...
Thursday (again). I wasn't first about to go there at all, as the car was
not ready and I had an oil leak from turbo oil drain hose. Well, Tero had
gotten his exhaust fixed, but was leaking oil too. So what the hell,
time to pick 2 liters of oil and head towards Ahvenisto...
I had nothing differnent suspension-wise compared to last time,
except that I had bumped up the front tyres to 44psi and left the
rears at 37psi. Power was slightly upped from last time,
now at 203hp from 5000 to 6000rpm, limited by fuel supply running
a modest 13psi boost. Handling was the same as last time, with
use of power the tighter corners went pretty well, though at the
cost of rear tyre wear... Some of the higher-speed corners reminded
me of the need for negative front camber - the dreaded understeer set
in and could be only gotten momentarily rid of by lifting off the
throttle, giving some mild oversteer for a moment as expected.
So I ran 3 fast laps, 2 of them were relatively free of traffic,
which brought results: 1:44.7 and 1:45.0. After that, brake fade
set in, and I also noticed that the mixture seemed pretty lean
under full power... the intercooler must have been working well
or maybe I was getting air bubbles in the fuel (under half full tank).
Probably both, as I had already on the way to Ahvenisto noticed
rather lean mixtures on the highway - down to 870mV. On the track,
at worst it was 750mV. No wonder it was heating up the coolant
a bit, around 90-93C. Once I got to the pits, the oil pressure
was down to 1 bar at idle because of the temperature. After a few
km of driving, it was back to the normal 2 bar at idle.
I'm glad I took the opportunity, 3.5s improvement isn't that bad
for a modest ~10hp increase and no traffic problems, which
I reckoned last time to have cost me maybe 2 seconds...
The Volvo 244 turbo received the highest repair bill of the day.
One spark plug disintegrated, the whole center electrode and insulator
were gone. Marks on the #1 piston, and compression down at 3 bar
(11 bar for the other ones). Can you say "detonation"?
The BMW 535 didn't impress on the first few laps, in 1:54-1:56
neighborhood. Then he got serious, times started dropping and edges
of the track getting closer... on one lap he went out of the track
to the gravel, at approximately 145km/h, completely sideways but
miraculously saved it and got back on the track (though didn't get
it completely under control until about a hundred meters later).
He did take the second fastest time after all.
Plans still include ye olde bithcing about not enough negative
camber in front, too soft springs and not enough power (to
break the tyres loose at 120km/h ;). But this time I'm closer
to attending to these. I promise you all 240hp before the end
of next week, and the remaining 40hp by mid-summer ;)
Springs, that depends on when the motoring club MIG is working
again... next track day is in September, then all should have been
ready for a long time - if I get the brakes done too, it may
be time for a tour of all tracks in Finland.
Results, as I remember them:
1. Carina GT-T 1:44.7 203hp 5000-6000rpm
2. BMW 535 1:46.2? 211hp, can't blame for not trying hard ;)
3. Alfa GTV 1:47.2 153hp, no air filters
+ slower ones:
Skoda 130 Rapid 1:59.2 Kari drove...
1:58.2 ... and I did ;)
Volvo 244 turbo - blew during warm-up laps
VW Kupla (Bug) ?
Opel Ascona ~1:56
Saab 90 ~1:59
Ford Taunus ?
And for those who haven't read the yearly drag race (1/8 mile) results yet
from my pages:
# time speed driver vehicle
[s] [km/h]
1 9.16 138 Kari Vdlimaa Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu
2 9.77 125 Matti Kalalahti Toyota Carina GT-T TC Turbo (203hp)
3 10.0 112 Mika Virtanen Nissan 300ZX Turbo
4 10.1 121 Riku Kreula Pontiac Firebird
timing by hand, includes reaction times...
--
Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up...
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
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From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL
Subject: Leaking supercharger
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 16:22:30 -0700 (PDT)
Hi everyone,
I just had my car taken in for a 60K tune up and the mechanic informed me
that I had a slight oil leak from somewhere. I traced it to the
supercharger and am wondering now if its just a bad seal on the unit that
can be easily replaced, or if I need a new unit. If I do need a new
unit, I've heard of aftermarket superchargers which provide more boost
than the stock one, but I'm not sure who actually makes them for the MKI
SC MR2s. Has anyone had similiar experiences? Any inputs would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2 (Leaking but still afloat) :-(
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Date: Thu, 9 May 96 16:24:05 -0700
From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong)
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Blowing my horn, not my gasket!
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Supra Guys and Gals -
I'm pleased to announce I've driven my Mark III, 1987 Supra turbo
300,000 kilometers!
Or about 186,411 miles give or take. This isn't the longest lived
7M Supra I've heard of on the Net, but I think it's the longest lived
one still actively with the Supra (& Mods) group.
This is all original equipment minus the usual service/disposables,
with these longer wear items having been replaced:
power steering rack ($$$$)
water pump (twice, once under warranty)
thermostat
radiator cap
various hoses ($$$)
center valve cover
valve cover gaskets
cam sensor gasket
heater VSV
cold start switch
# cylinder head bolts
# EGR valve and modulator
# O2 sensor
targa top bolt/nut
wheel stud
engine under cover
n ignition cables
n brake pads (once only, at 170,000 miles!)
n shocks (HKS/TRD)
n exhaust (HKS, twice!)
notes:
# = due to heater bypass blowing out (overheated) event
n = I consider Normal long wear item (never "lifetime")
Items soon to be replaced:
clutch master - leaking
ball joints - loose
brake rotors - bad vibrations
wheel bearings - noisy
Notable items which have lasted EXCEPTIONALLY long:
* original paint, except for plastic bumpers -> GONE!
original engine, including head gasket, no rebuilds
original turbocharger
original transmission, including clutch!
** original leather wrapped steering wheel and upholstery
original freon, needs recharge
original fog lamps, some large nicks in unbroken lens
notes:
* many rock/debris chips & 2 parking XXXhole dings :(,
looks fine except for those bumpers.
** some wear is evident (bolster), but still looks great!
I won't reveal here additional pieces I've replaced/upgraded optionally,
or involuntarily through mishap (e.g. heater bypass - #). You can guess
or check out the Supra web entry.
Only the steering rack wasn't replaced with "Genuine Toyota" parts or
a "high performance" equivalent.
Some of the longevity might be directly attributable to the fact
she's (mildly) MODIFIED FOR PERFORMANCE, contrary to popular belief.
You can have your cake...
(If an engine makes more power than stock, you put less stress on it
under "normal" driving conditions, right?)
Thanks to the valuable information from this list and others, I'll
probably take her up to 200,000 miles sometime next year;
she'll be only 10 years young then!
Leslie
'87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather,
ONLY 186.5K miles - that's 300,000 kilometers!
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To: toyota-mods
From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus
Date: 9 May 96 20:16:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Leaking supercharger
History: Micky's got oil leaking from a seal on his supercharger
I reply: This supercharger unit is fully serviceable. It's rebuildable. The
MR2 service book provides excellent detail of the supercharger, and it's
rebuilding, and it looks like a do-it-yourself job (if we had the space... if
we had the time... if we had the tools... if we had another car... etc...).
There's really not much to the supercharger.
I suppose, if someone made one, you could install another supercharger that
might give you more hp. I haven't done this myself, but in researching this,
on the stock engine with all Toyota bits, the addition of a new pulley that
turns the sc vanes faster, a header and different exhaust, and a couple of cams
timed other than to factory spec (TRD seemed to have these numbers), would
produce somewhere around, or upwards, of 200hp. Some folks I spoke with were
claiming more from these modifications, but that would just be incremental, I
think. 200hp, and all that sc torque, would move the Mk 1 SC MR2 along quite
nicely, indeed. This certainly isn't a lot of work, or a huge out lay of money
for the engine performance difference it provides. The SC motor is plenty
strong, with its strengthened block, forged pistons, and stronger crank, and
the Toyota-designed sc system is also quite reliable, though I have some small
reservations about the robustness of the rest of the drivetrain at this hp.
- Steven
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From: "Gary Friedman"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:12:48 +0000
Subject: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge
I have a 93 MR2T. Starting about 2 weeks ago(time of an oil
change??)I've had a problem on cold starts. The car hesitates when
pressing the gas pedal-- I can punch it and it just pauses, then
slowly rpms start hesitantly going up and the turbo suddenly kicks
in, causing lunging forward.
I have never experienced this kind of hesitation on cold acceleration
before. However, whats really scaring me is that the turbo is
spooling up in first gear and kicking in before rpms!! I can never
recall much turbo boost in first gear when rpms were winding
normally. The turbo kick at 2000 hesitant rpm seems weird- like the
engine management system is mistakenly exchanging turbo power due to
missing prerequesite basic rpm power.
It led to my first fishtail today- Without even pushing hard, it
hesitated at an intersection turn and then the turbo kicked in during
hesitation and spun out he rear, Any ideas folks?? This car has
always been predictable and I have never fishtailed before- even in
hard cornering and accellerating.
Anyone experience this phenomena? What gives (or is something about
to give!!!)
Gary
Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!!
MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 00:10:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott Davis
To: Toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 80 corolla struts
Anyone care to comment on the feasability of replacing the stock struts
with something better? Coil overs? (what are they, anyways? Help! No
suspension knowledge beyond stock whatsoever...)
Also, can anyone give me feedback on the feasability of mounting
a turbo unit on my 3T-C? Specifically:
-is the compression ratio OK, or does it need to be lowered?
-are the stock components able to handle the load to about 10 lbs
boost?
-What other mods are neccessary to convert a N/A to a turbo?
-would it be cheaper just to buy a 3T-GTE or perhaps just get the
turbo unit from said engine?
Thanks...
Scott
ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu
80 Corolla SR-5
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1/index.html
"Physics 107 was a very thorough class. What wasn't covered in lecture
showed up on the tests."
/|
/ |
/ |
/ |
/____|
_______|___
_________\_________/___________
__ __ ____ ___ __ __ _ _____ __ _
___ _ ____ ____ __ __ __ _ ____ ____
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From: "Gary Friedman"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:56:53 +0000
Subject: Re: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge
> From: Self
> To: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com, mr2-announce@validgh.com
> Subject: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge
> Reply-to: gfriedmn@ipof.fla.net
> Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:12:55
> I have a 93 MR2T. Starting about 2 weeks ago(time of an oil
> change??)I've had a problem on cold starts. The car hesitates when
> pressing the gas pedal-- I can punch it and it just pauses, then
> slowly rpms start hesitantly going up and the turbo suddenly kicks
> in, causing lunging forward.
Snip, Snip.....
I'm wasn't suggesting the oil change per se... But the car gets an
overall check by my mechanic when oil is changed. Any minor
"touches" or adjustments that could lead to this??
I'm mostly concerned about the turbo spooling so much in FIRST GEAR-
before its up to rpms. Seems like it would stress the system as its
so unusual. I'll be trying to remember slow warm ups til I can get
it in for a check.
Thanks for the feedback thus far.
Thanks for "announce" David!!!!
Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!!
MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 07:55:50 EDT
From: "'G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)' daucott@e-mail.com"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tranny Swap - Update
*** Resending note of 05/10/96 07:49
Hi everyone!
I've started my project of switching my new MR2 from automatic to manual,
and I took the auto trans out last night. Here are a few observations:
This car was designed as a manual. Everything appears to be there for
the installation of the manual goodies... coolant lines, mounting points,
weld nuts, everything. Perhaps the most amazing to me was that even
the WIRING is there!! Now, I don't know if ALL the points are there yet
because I haven't completed the job, but even the backup light switch is
there still attatched to the wiring harness with tear tape as from the
factory. Neat! I just hope the clutch pedal switch is there too! It'll
this sooooo easy.
I also noticed that although this car had no cruise control, all the wiring
is there for that too: the connectors in the engine compartment, the ECU
plug and wiring, and I assume the column wiring is all there. Toyota must
have decided it was better to have one wiring harness (or maybe two) that
covered everything, and just give away the circuits on the cars that don't
use them. Seems an expensive way to go if you ask me, but I"m not
complaining!! :-)
Further details forthcoming after I get the new trans and all the lines,
linkages, etc. installed.
Dave A.
1986 MR2s, green and silver
daucott@e-mail.com
..............
G. Dave Aucott
1998 FN145 Structures
32-39181 Internet: daucott@e-mail.com
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:20:38 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh)
Subject: Early Diff/Tranny problems?
I have what seems to be the beginning of a problem with my '85 Celica GTS.
I am getting a jerky thing happening when I'm in gear. This usually
happens when decelerating. It starts very slight and if I hold the
throttle in between the point of coasting and pulling the car, it will
start to buck. I never get the problem when accelerating, only right at
coasting or decelerating. Also, I'm hearing a slight 'clunk' when I engage
the clutch. I'm wondering if the problem is U-joints, or diff. fluid
needing to be changed, or clutches in the diff. I don't know where to
start. The bucking of the car is really starting to get on my nerves
though. I have to wonder if my recent popping of the clutch down at the
local car hangout has anything to do with this problem. BTW, any
recommendation on diff. fluid? I will probably change that next week.
Thanks for any suggestions.
-frederick.
'85 Celica GTS Convertible
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:06:58 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: clutch upgrade
>From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
>Subject: clutch upgrade
>
>I have an '89 MkI MR2, 4A-GE, bone stock. NOt for long...
>I'm replacing my clutch after abusing it for 100,000mi. I want to replace
>it with something that will be able to handle some planned performance
>upgrades. I don't expect to go over 175hp. I want it to handle high speed
>(+100) as well.
>How about CV's and halfshafts? Trans and motor mounts? Fluids? I run
>Mobil 1 now.
>Tips and supplier suggestions would be appreciated.
>Thanks
>
>Kelly Carter
For fluids, have you tried Redline MTL for your tranny and their gear lubes?
I myself haven't tried either but have heard that both do an excellent job
and in some cases make shifting smoother.
Check out the mr2 www page at http://mr2.com/. They have all sorts of
useful information. Check out the Performance Upgrade Information page.
Dave
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Redline "MTL" or other for '85 MR2?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 13:12:19 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
Hi Everyone,
Well, I'm going to start searching junkyards next week for a front
end clip so that I can get started on my front end repair and get the car
back on the road. I will also be changing all of the fluids since the car
has been sitting since last August, and driven around the block about every
two weeks.
My question is regarding the manual transmission fluid. I noticed
lately that there is debate about which Redline fluid to use. I remember
back a few months when it was said that for the '85 MR2 gearbox, Redline MTL
was the fluid choice, and I believe that this is what's in the FAQ. Is this
the right one, or should I use a different Redline fluid? The car has
93,000 miles on it and still has the original gearbox. It has become
slightly notchy in the past year, so I want to put in the best transmission
fluid I can to make it last, along with the better shifting techniques I've
learned about on this list.
Thank you :)
Aly
'85 MR2
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
PS, Is Valvoline the choice for engine oil, if you can't afford Mobil 1 ?
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 12:18:31 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: clutch upgrade
I have an '89 MkI MR2, 4A-GE, bone stock. NOt for long...
I'm replacing my clutch after abusing it for 100,000mi. I want to replace
it with something that will be able to handle some planned performance
upgrades. I don't expect to go over 175hp. I want it to handle high speed
(+100) as well.
How about CV's and halfshafts? Trans and motor mounts? Fluids? I run
Mobil 1 now.
Tips and supplier suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Kelly Carter
A/V Technician
College of Architecture
Media Center
Texas A&M University
College Station, TX
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From: "Scott, Dan"
To: ToyMods
Subject: RedLine MTL
Date: Fri, 10 May 96 11:48:00 PDT
Hi y'all:
In my '88 Celica I used RedLine 75W90 (the weight that the manual requested)
and the results were (are ) outstanding. I would not hesitate to recommend
it to anyone with non-copper synchros in their tranny. If you have the
copper, and I don't think any Toy trannys have 'em, then the oil is too
slippery and you will get gear clash. I also use RedLine motor oil but I
can't vouch for any results since you can't tell just by driving. Shifting
with the new oil is very smooth and easy and I think it's great!
Good luck
Dan Scott
'88 Celica 4WD Turbo 152000 Kms (95000 miles)
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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 14:24:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott!
To: Toyota Mods List
Subject: Hastings Oil Filters
Hi,
Does any know if these filters are any good?
Thanks Toyota-gods and goddesses,
Scott
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Date: Fri, 10 May 96 14:39:58 EST
From: "Changming Tony Chung"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Dear Sir:
My email address is changming@ilx.com. I have a question about an
internal oil burning question. I own an 86 1/2 Supra 7MGE, non turbo.
My car is burning one quart of motor oil every 300 miles. I did a
compress check of the engine before the engine is rebuilt. #1-#6 were
about 170-180psi, except #4 was 105psi. I send the engine's head to
rebuild. I believe the machine shop didn't change any value guide.
They did change the value seals and resurface the values face. I
changed the piston rings with the oem size, cam shaft and thrust
bearings.
After the rebuilt, I did a compression check and all the cylinder's
compression are in the range fo 175 to 190 psi. I did a vacuum Check
on the intake manifold at the connection of the cursie control module.
It is pulling 17" of vacuum and the needle is steady. When the
throttle is fully open, the needle jumps to zero and bounces up to
19" and returns to 17" of vacuum. I don't have the equipment to
perform a leak test on the engine. After 4000 miles, the engine
starts to burning oil again, one quart every 300 miles, on oil leaks.
I am thinking to send the head of the engine to a machine shop to
change all the value guides. The third possible source of internal
oil burning is oil pushing or pulling through the pcv value or system.
I check the pcv system according to the maintenance manual and didn't
find any clod in the any passage. Can I get some expert opinion from
you guys.
Is there a turbo kit out there to convert a 7MGE to 7MGE-T engine.
What are the inexpensive ways to increase you pickup speed and
horsepower.
Sincerely yours,
Tony Chung
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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 20:46:46 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Redline "MTL" or other for '85 MR2?Q
In a message dated 96-05-10 13:19:58 EDT, you write:
> My question is regarding the manual transmission fluid. I noticed
>lately that there is debate about which Redline fluid to use. I remember
>back a few months when it was said that for the '85 MR2 gearbox, Redline MTL
>was the fluid choice, and I believe that this is what's in the FAQ. Is this
>the right one, or should I use a different Redline fluid? The car has
>93,000 miles on it and still has the original gearbox. It has become
>slightly notchy in the past year, so I want to put in the best transmission
>fluid I can to make it last, along with the better shifting techniques I've
>learned about on this list.
I just replaced my trans fluid with Castrol Syntec. I was at the mercy of
the corner store and this was the best they had (late at night, only one
open)... It was mighty expensive and it should be good stuff! Anyone have
experience with it? My trans works as well as or better than before I put it
in, and the mysterious noise I got before it went in is gone.
Dave A.
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From: Alec Dun
To: "'toyota-mods@cyberauto.com'"
Subject: me/mine/mods
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 23:24:16 -0700
Name : Alec Dun
Location :
Model : 1993 Supra Twin-Turbo
Engine : 3GTZ?
Mods : none so far
email : alecdu@halcyon.com
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Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 13:09:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Wheels
Does anyone know of a source for Panasport wheels ar reasonable prices?
I am looking for a set of 13 X 6 inch for Starlet (same as rear drive
Corolla). Also, does anyone have a set of used 13 X 6 they would care to
sell?
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 15:16:30 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Chris Hilliard
Hey folks,
Have any of you made any fender flares for your car? I am trying to
make some BMW "M" style box flares for my Corolla. The desired look
would be SCCA pro rally like . With these I would want to be able to run
50 series tires and 15" rims. I have made a few prototypes that I just don't
like (out
of sheet metal) and have thought about possibly taking some dually truck fenders
, cutting them down to about 5" and reshaping from there. I would also like
to put
my fuel filler tube into the fender with a door or a cool aftermarket
something or other. Any thoughts on this? Naturally I would have to find
some kind of front facia
or ground effects. Anybody know of a source for that or a car that has the
same width as my corolla so that I could go wrecking yard hunting?
By the way, my car is a ' 77 Corolla Liftback TE-51.
Any thoughts or discusions would be appreciated.
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Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 09:12:55 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Cellular phone cradle bracket for '91MR2
Does anyone know if ProFit (*think* that's the company's name) makes a
cellular phone cradle bracket for the '91 MR2 (the newer body style)? The
local dealers aren't giving me very good customer servie (how about
'none'?), and I just want to know what the part number is, or if I could
even order dircectly from them.
For those who don't know, and care, ProFit makes a line of cradle brackets
that don't need to be screwed into the dash, or attached using
double-backed tape. You remove the radio trim, attach the bracket to the
radio support, and then re-attach the radio trim (or some other applicable
dash trim). That way you get a hidden attachment point, no drilling or
screws, and it is (usually) very stable.
Thanks for any info anyone can give me.
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
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Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 11:04:11 -0700
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: david_agosti@mindlink.bc.ca (david agosti)
Subject: buying a Mk1 MR2
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Hi guys
been lurking fer a while as i save up the money to buy a mk1. I do have a
few questions that i hope u guys can answer tho.
first of all which model year(s) had the "air intakes" on the sides of the
car fer the mk1? (i think this look really sharp)
second of all i can't really afford an s/c but, i was wondering if aside
from the s/c was there any major difference between the 4age and 4agze? (ie
stronger bottom end, etc.)
lastly, what year do u guys consider the most bang for the buck? the mk1
na's go fer between 4k-8k up here in vancouver depending on the model year
(85 and 86's are about the same prices go up about 1k a year after that)
i guess before y'all can answer this u should know what i wanna do with the
car. well, i do plan to auto-x it, but also... i plan to...
RALLY RACE MY MR2!!!!!!!
i will happily accept all the condemnation any nay-sayers may send me... but
i know it can be a gr8 rally car :)
toodles fer now
david a.
(the lurker... not the guy who posts all the time :)
==================================
the three stages of man:
tri-weekly, try-weekly, try-weakly
==================================
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sun, 12 May 96 20:04 CDT
From: ikhifa@mailhost.accesscom.net (patrick ikhifa)
Subject: 4A-GE
Guys,
I have followed the postings for a while hoping that someone with a
similar problem will post first but as summer is upon us, I thought I'd
better give a try. this is a problem I once posted before so please bear
with me.
Anyway I have a couple of questions; I own an '86 GT-S Corolla with 115,000
mi on it. It still runs very strong but will like to increase top speed as
well as handling especially beyond 100 MPH. The other day on my way back
from Houston, TX a brand new '96 Camry V6 LE blew by me at 100 plus MPH. I
haave some conditions, I am afraid to go into the motor because I don't
trust the mechanics here with an engine job. I have a K & N Filter on the
car and a DYNOMAXX ULTRA FLOW cat back exhaust system. I am wondering if you
have any suggestions for the next step in the upgrade? Some have suggested
from the many posts that I have read that an ignitionn upgrade and a
suspension ugrade are the next levels. I don't really know what upgrade
products I shold go after and what types of benfits to expect. I have no
intention of going to the track or thing of the sort. I simply want to be
able to go fast with good handling.
My second problem is a unique one which I once posted on the net with fair
response but the problem continues of course I have contacted the local
dealerships for advice as well. Here is my problem: At full to half tank,
the car performs excellently on hte highway. From full tank and below, it
ocassionaly looses power but does not kill. I pull over to the shouldr of
the road the motor continues to idle at 800 RPM yet when I try to rev up it
may or may not hestate depending on how long I remain standing. It them
takes off as if nothing is wrong but will not allow me to go faster than 60
MPH without again loosing power.
In city driving with a half tank of gas, I am fine and I can actually reach
speeds in excess of 70 MPH without problems. Thus far, this is what I have
done; replaced the fuel filter, gas cap, gasket around the filler neck,
flushed the injectors, regularly use Red Line injector cleaner, and buy high
octane gas, all to make sure that the fuel system remains clean. Mechanics
have suggested that the problem may be in the fuel tank. They feel that the
tank is holding the required fuel pressure but fails once the level drops
below half at certain speeds. Others suspect that I need to repalce the tank
screen because there mignt be a clog or folatsam that blocks the screen at
the bottom of the tank at or below the half tank level. Still others suspect
that there maybe a broken line or hose in the tank that allows in some kind
of vacumn which the pump is not happy with, and finally all of the above.
I hate to drop the tank without further narrowing in the problem. I don't
expect them to pinpoint the problem first, but I would prefer a test of some
sort to back up these diagnoses. Any suggestions? What gets me is that it
seems to be a first time for all whom I have talked to. Can my problem be
that unique? Thanks.
Patrick,
Troubled '86 GT-S Corolla
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Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 19:26:43 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: 4A-GE
>From: ikhifa@mailhost.accesscom.net (patrick ikhifa)
>
>Anyway I have a couple of questions; I own an '86 GT-S Corolla with 115,000
>trust the mechanics here with an engine job. I have a K & N Filter on the
>car and a DYNOMAXX ULTRA FLOW cat back exhaust system. I am wondering if you
>have any suggestions for the next step in the upgrade? Some have suggested
>from the many posts that I have read that an ignitionn upgrade and a
>suspension ugrade are the next levels.
The ignition upgrade would help things out, especially as you get
farther along in your engine modifications. In the way of modifying the
engine, I'd say that getter a set of headers would be the next best step to
go with to increasing the mid-top end power. I know that J.C. Whitney has a
header listed that would work for your car. Also give Chris Myer and the
guys at Cyberspace Automotive Performance an email, they can help you out in
finding a set of headers for you as well as ignition and suspension upgrades.
For upgrading the suspension, I'd suggest going with some
performance springs and shocks. This will increase your handling potential,
especially at higher speeds. The guys at CAP can help you out it this
department also!
Dave
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Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 23:40:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: QUI HONG
To: Toyota MODS
Subject: ME/MINE/MODS
HI EVERYBODY!!!
Name: Qui Hong
Location: San Francisco, CA
Model: 1988 White MR2
Engine: 4A-GE
MODs: Super Turbo Muffler no cat, Akimoto In-take
Future Mods: Repaint car pearl purple, TRD headers, Full suspension
up-grade (maybe just some springs and sway bars)
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From: dbenoit@ccs.carleton.ca (Dan Benoit)
Subject: Digest Format
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 96 9:03:07 EDT
Hi,
Does anyone know of a way that you can receive the postings to this list
in a Digest format, instead of an Individual format?
Thanks,
Dan
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dan Benoit
Carleton University
THE CCS HELP DESK
401 Robertson Hall (AB 401)
Phone: (613)520-3700
E-mail Address: dbenoit@ccs.carleton.ca
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 09:12:53 -0400
From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Hastings Filters
No Knowledge of Hastings but here are some comments of a mech. engineer
that had torn a couple of filters apart. From his findings, he really
liked the Wix the best. I do know that Wix use to make Amsoil oil filters
under contract several years ago (Hastings actually makes them under
contract now). I tore one of the Amsoil filters apart when they were
made by Wix, and I must agree with Jeff about the Wix construction.
I still use Amsoil filters (along with all of Amsoils synthetic procucts)
but I think Amsoil filters were constructed like a brick shit house
when they were made by Wix. Keep in mind no matter who makes their
filters under contract, they are made to Amsoil Specs.
For any other filters, if anyone want additional info, e-mail Jeff
direct at JefffrmPA@aol.com, NOT ME.
Steve
FRAM is universally condemned for its paper endcaps, but I must admit that
every one I've looked in has been assembled very well. The glueing is
neat, and the used ones I took apart were still very intact after thousands
of miles.
There's no doubt in my mind that Wix is the best-made. It has thicker cans,
more threads on the base than many; an impressive, rubber-sealed bypass
valve; metal end-caps, along with neat glueing and a coiled spring that
theoretically provides more consistent sealing inside the filter. The Wix
51515 for my Fords has at 334 in2 almost twice the surface area of the Fram
PH8A (170 in2).
Why, then, isn't Wix my universal choice? Well, I wasn't sure it had the best
media. After all, the cleanliness of the oil re-entering the engine is my
primary concern. There's lots of divergence of opinion over filtering finer
particles versus dirt-holding capacity. Personally, I want the finest
filtration possible, cuz the filter'll never get clogged on MY cars..... .
My micrometer makes the FRAM media about 1.0mm thick, versus .7-.8mm for the
Wix. Holding the two up to a strong light, the FRAM's appears a bit more
opaque. However, a guy at Purolator / Motorcraft (also a really well-made
filter, and rated at 20 um) tells me opacity and thickness relate more to
capacity than efficiency (particle size). Fram's national claim is 96.2%
single-pass efficiency on the SAE J806 test, and they claim it's better than
'any leading filter'. HOWEVER, the clincher may have come today when I called
Baldwin in Nebraska over the lunch. Baldwin says OE filters are typically
more open; that is, they don't filter the smallest possible particles, but
this pays off in more capacity and longer life before the bypass opens -
something of interest when designing for neglectful owners. Baldwin designs
its own filters to match OE performance or nearly so. The guy was kind enough
to provide me with this data from their own internal comparison tests: SAE
J806, standrard abrasive dust in oil-
Here's what the mfr's engineering departments told me for their nominal
rating:
FRAM WearGuard: 15um
FRAM HighPerf: 25um
Wix: 19um
Purolator: 20um
Baldwin: 25 um
Amsoil: 15-20um
Baldwin B2: 74.8% efficient, 24.3g capacity
Motorcraft FL-1A: 69.3%, 33.7g
FRAM Wear Guard PH8A(same as ones I examined): 81.3%, 10.0g
Wix 51515 (they've only got one line sold as Wix. real plain looking but
effective): 87.1%, 20.0g
Note that there's lots of discrepancy about how these numbers are arrived at.
They may well NOT be directly comparable. The Baldwin guy's the only one who
gave me back-to-back data from a single test, and he had no qualms about his
own product not coming out on top.
No knowledge of other published filter tests, sorry. The CR test was 87, I
think, and put FRAM on top but I know they didn't test Wix. I do know that
Wix and FRAM both make bypass filters, but I've never seen em anywhere. I've
asked for catalogs from both companies.
That pretty much does it for me, and I can go back to real life and stop
obsessing on oil filters . Nothing wrong with FRAM if you change it often
enough, but the Wix looks a bit better on efficiency. That plus the
inarguably better construction will have me buying white instead of
orange.... It surprises me that with such numbers Wix / Napa Gold (same
filter, Wix makes it for Napa resellers) isn't marketed more aggressively. I
asked the guy at Wix about this, and he said they can't sell their filter for
the $2.00 that the FRAM brings, and they won't take out the quality to do so.
Hope this is food for thought - I'll be interested to hear your comments.
Regards,
Jeff
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: 13 May 96 10:18:46 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: "Steve B."
Cc: Geoff ,
Subject: Foul Play ;-)
Hello all,
I'll try to make this question a quick one, as opposed to the epic novels of the
past.
Since I blew my knock sensor a few weeks ago, I have been having a problem
when I'm at WOT. Basically, I'm getting a nice quick boost buildup, then when I
hit
about 1 bar, I get a boost blurb, and then it starts pulling again, but I have
not been
able to run higher than 1 bar since then. This past Saturday, I went to the
track
again, and the problem was getting worse and worse. Finally the car kicked out
a
14.1 then started to idle poorly with no ability to accelerate. I changed the
wires,
rotor and cap (again) but still a no go. I opened up the handy dandy manual the
next
day and sure enough, the first thing listed to check under the ignition system
is the
plugs. As fate would have it, the 4th cylinder plug was TERRIBLY fouled. Also,
when
I changed the wires for the first time since purchase, I noticed a small amount
of
oil buildup on the tip of the #4 wire. Anyways, I changed the plugs and all was
well.
The only fouled one was the #4. It was black as the ace of spades. What could
be
causing this? Dare I say a worn ring?? ;-((((( Any comments, please do write.
Later
Larry S
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:12:36 -0400
From: Gavin Vess
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: [Fwd: Welcome to toyota-mods]
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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To all who wish to unsubscribe,
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It also suggests SAVING a copy of this message
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--
Gavin
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 19:31:04 -0400
To: vess@verdi.iisd.sra.com
From: Majordomo@CyberAuto.com
Subject: Welcome to toyota-mods
--
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Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:25:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: QUI HONG
To: Toyota MODS
Subject: Akimoto In-take
Well, actually it is just a cone filter which I attach to the MAF sensor.
You know how my air filter is in the trunk? Well, when I went to my local
speed shop and ask what kind of in-take would be best for my car they
said to take out the air filter box in the trunk and get an adaptor and
connect the Akimoto filter on it. Well I thought about it, and figure
that means that my engine will be sucking air from my trunk (which I
figure has no air beside that little tube that runs all the way around
it and connects to the vent on the other side of the car). To re-asure me
he told me that he has done this for a couple of supercharge Mr2's and
the owners said it work great. Blah,Blah (probably didn't want anyone to
know that they just get ript-off). Well I decided to buy the
filter anyway and find another way to install it. Well, I was on the Mr2
web page and found that great article on how to install air filter in the
Mk1's. So I just followed the instruction and took out (all that unnessary)
air in-take stuff and mounted the filter in the trunk. I added a air
scoop so the filter would get more air. Well, It works great now. I get a
little louder roar and a few more horses (hopeful).
Qui
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:25:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: QUI HONG
To: MR2 Digest ,
Subject: MK1 Headers
I just called TRD and ask for price of headers for my 88 MR2 and they
quoted me $349.95. After I called Select Sales and they quoted my only
$269.95. What a differents!!!
Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He
told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers
to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me
engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think?
Also if anyone has some advise on how to install it, please inform.
Thanks.
QUI HONG
quihong@orion.sfsu.edu
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: brian.lofthouse@actc.ab.ca
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:28:42 -0600 (MDT)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Brett Fraser's GT4 wish-list
I've been reading the toymod's archives, and saw Brett's "seeya" message where
he asked about Celica 4wds. Just thought I'd mention that here in Calgary, I
see 88 Turbo alltracks asking $9k - $13k. (the $13k was loaded with leather int)They arent
real common, but only $2-4k more than na GTS Celica...
(CDN$)
Does anybody know if the 4AGZE? will fit in a Corolla GTS RWD? Same trans, etc?
I was whining to Chris a while ago about the lack of low end, and that would be
one way to get lots... (I'm watching for an SC MR2, very scarce, but lots of
NAs for sale)
Brian Lofthouse
(PS, how would you feel about lots of snow in May...more whining)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:00:54 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: Dan Benoit
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Digest Format
On Mon, 13 May 1996, Dan Benoit wrote:
> Does anyone know of a way that you can receive the postings to this list
> in a Digest format, instead of an Individual format?
Gad, I keep saying I will set this up (have done for a number of months
now) but never seem to have the time :( Keep badgering and I will get
around to it RSN (Oh. yeah, sure I hear everyone say....)
Paul.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-=
=-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 16:09:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: An-Hong Chien
To: QUI HONG
Cc: Toyota MODS
Subject: Re: Akimoto In-take
hey qui...just had some questions about the air intake. where did u get
the info off the web? also did u have to reset the air intake meter? why
did u use a aki instead of a k&n? thanks in advance
dave
On Mon, 13 May 1996, QUI HONG wrote:
>
> Well, actually it is just a cone filter which I attach to the MAF sensor.
> You know how my air filter is in the trunk? Well, when I went to my local
> speed shop and ask what kind of in-take would be best for my car they
> said to take out the air filter box in the trunk and get an adaptor and
> connect the Akimoto filter on it. Well I thought about it, and figure
> that means that my engine will be sucking air from my trunk (which I
> figure has no air beside that little tube that runs all the way around
> it and connects to the vent on the other side of the car). To re-asure me
> he told me that he has done this for a couple of supercharge Mr2's and
> the owners said it work great. Blah,Blah (probably didn't want anyone to
> know that they just get ript-off). Well I decided to buy the
> filter anyway and find another way to install it. Well, I was on the Mr2
> web page and found that great article on how to install air filter in the
> Mk1's. So I just followed the instruction and took out (all that unnessary)
> air in-take stuff and mounted the filter in the trunk. I added a air
> scoop so the filter would get more air. Well, It works great now. I get a
> little louder roar and a few more horses (hopeful).
>
> Qui
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:28:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: QUI HONG
To: An-Hong Chien
Cc: Toyota MODS
Subject: Re: Akimoto In-take
Well, to tell you the truth..I don't know why I picked the Akimoto over
the K&N!!! Actually I bought a K&N filter, the one that fits into the
stock air-filter box, but decided not to use it. By the way I'm selling
it for $45, if anyone is interested. Still brand new, never been use in the
box. Just email me about it. Back to the subject. The Akimoto is uses
more by people around here...when i hear K&N...I think American cars!
What the hell is the AIR INTAKE METER????
I unhook my battery for about an hour when I intalled it....will that do it.
I got the info from "http://www.mr2.com". Look around in there, if you
haven't already, lots of neat stuff on mr2's.
On Mon, 13 May 1996, An-Hong Chien wrote:
> hey qui...just had some questions about the air intake. where did u get
> the info off the web? also did u have to reset the air intake meter? why
> did u use a aki instead of a k&n? thanks in advance
> dave
>
> On Mon, 13 May 1996, QUI HONG wrote:
>
> >
> > Well, actually it is just a cone filter which I attach to the MAF sensor.
> > You know how my air filter is in the trunk? Well, when I went to my local
> > speed shop and ask what kind of in-take would be best for my car they
> > said to take out the air filter box in the trunk and get an adaptor and
> > connect the Akimoto filter on it. Well I thought about it, and figure
> > that means that my engine will be sucking air from my trunk (which I
> > figure has no air beside that little tube that runs all the way around
> > it and connects to the vent on the other side of the car). To re-asure me
> > he told me that he has done this for a couple of supercharge Mr2's and
> > the owners said it work great. Blah,Blah (probably didn't want anyone to
> > know that they just get ript-off). Well I decided to buy the
> > filter anyway and find another way to install it. Well, I was on the Mr2
> > web page and found that great article on how to install air filter in the
> > Mk1's. So I just followed the instruction and took out (all that unnessary)
> > air in-take stuff and mounted the filter in the trunk. I added a air
> > scoop so the filter would get more air. Well, It works great now. I get a
> > little louder roar and a few more horses (hopeful).
> >
> > Qui
> >
>
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL
Subject: Tire pressure again
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (toyota mods)
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 18:01:48 -0700 (PDT)
I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure...
Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire
pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi).
I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and
he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at
slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher
velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the
mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of
the tread. With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a
"bouncy" feeling. This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is
he right? This would explain the differences between what I have
experienced and what everyone else on the list believes.
Later,
Micky
'89 SC MR2
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 11:28:32 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
From Qui Hong
>Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He
>told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers
>to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me
>engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think?
>
There was quite a bit of talk over this subject some months ago. The best
advice that I can give is to (believe it or not) leave the original exhaust
manifold in place - it will work overall much better than any aftermarket
'header' (extractor in Australia) system. The reason being is this - the
hotter the exhaust gasses, the higher the speed they will travel, so with
the original Toyota cast-iron device (nice thick walls) you will keep quite
a lot of heat in. With the thin wall extractors, they dump heat VERY
efficiently (through the skin of the metal tubes), so to make then work
their best you must cover then with the exhaust bandage system. The other
reason for this on EFI enfines is so that the oxygen sensor does not cool
down too much at idle. (Which it will with bare-metal extractors)
The other reason is that in most cases, the aftermarket extractors claim a
(say) 5hp increase. They may in fact do that, but _only at certain rpms_, so
in practice you will probably LOSE power at other points in the rev range.
(usually down low)
Based upon these two things, I'd have to say that for road use it would be
wiser to spend your money on more productive things, eg suspension, etc.
Bill S.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 23:50:09 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
In a message dated 96-05-13 21:43:34 EDT, you write:
>There was quite a bit of talk over this subject some months ago. The best
>advice that I can give is to (believe it or not) leave the original exhaust
>manifold in place - it will work overall much better than any aftermarket
>'header' (extractor in Australia) system.
At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I
installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine,
then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza
exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then
installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light
flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out
on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and
the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in
conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over
stock.
Dave A.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: Tire pressure again
To: micky@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (MICKY THUTIYAKUL)
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 00:37:53 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure...
> Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire
> pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi).
> I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and
> he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at
> slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher
> velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the
> mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of
> the tread. With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a
> "bouncy" feeling. This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is
> he right? This would explain the differences between what I have
> experienced and what everyone else on the list believes.
>
> Later,
> Micky
> '89 SC MR2
>
Micky,
He's right. It all has to do with the driving conditions (speed and
how much you heat the tires up), and of course what kind of tire. That's
why the best way to optimize your contact patch is to do that temperature
test with the needle. You want to get the most tread on the ground. If you
go too high in pressure, the tire will be like a doughnut and the outer
edges will not contact the road as much as the center, just like your friend
mentioned. If you go too low in pressure, the center of the tread will not
contact the road as much and the outer edges of the tire will show a higher
temperature reading then the center. It's all relative. There is no magic
number. This 45 psi number is just an estimate for street tires as to the
limit where they start to "doughnut".
Happy Roadholding :)
Aly
'85 MR2
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Header Coating..I know, again!
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 00:53:32 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
I'm considering having my TRD header coated by Jet Hot.
Anyone know how well this works at keeping underhood temps low? I'm
concluding that the coating will keep the heat in the headers where it works
best and the lower engine compartment temps will give me a cooler intake.
This sounds like it will make a noticeable difference in seat of the pants
feel, judging by how much peppier the car felt during the cooler months.
They've told me it will cost $145 to do it. Does this sound reasonable?
Or is there a similar place with similar quality that will do it for less?
Thanks for any advice :)
Aly
'85 MR2
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: '85 MR2 front end or car wanted
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 01:00:50 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
Guys and Gals,
If anyone in the Upper Eastern US comes across an '85 MR2 front end
in good condition or even an entire car, please email me as I would like to
start my front end repairs soon. For the front end only, I'm willing to
spend $800 with a max of $1000. For an entire car with a good front end,
I'm willing to spend up to about $1300. I'm in lower NY (about an hour
north of the city and would be willing to drive about 3 hours to look at a
good front end clip.
Any and All help is appreciated :)
Aly
'85 MR2
Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 17:41:57 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
Hi there,
D Aucott said -
>At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I
>installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine,
>then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza
>exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then
>installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light
>flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out
>on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and
>the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in
>conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over
>stock.
>
No debate neccesary - what you have said is basically in agreement with what
I said. (You must read what I wrote a bit more carefully though! :)
I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power
than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas
of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing,
I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and
therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard
engine at low revs. :)
I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel -
they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you
actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a
guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up
0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length!
The B Man.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 06:27:49 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> Well,
> I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any
> real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the
> manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than
> any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2
> sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor
> and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust
> and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard
> exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated
> sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for
> the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant
> change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power
> gain is.
>
> I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard
> one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They
> are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a
> car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding
> and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money?
> Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?)
>
Well, does ceramic coating which is supposed to keep the heat in the header
keep the O2 sensor from cooling down too much? And how does the car act
differently when it's running a little too rich? You can't tell me that
during the winter months with the stock manifold that the O2 sensor doesn't
cool down at idle as you've mentioned that it does with a header. If it
does, the car felt INCREDIBLE in the winter.
Thanks,
Aly
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:00:21 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Headers
>I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power
>than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas
>of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing,
>I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and
>therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard
>engine at low revs. :)
I disagree. The "drag racing" we did was from a rolling start of 2000 rpm
for the sole purpose of checking low end power and taking the driver skill
out of it. I also have a superior clutch to Chris now so an offline start
would be unfair -- I could drop it at 4500 and keep it there, he'd just burn
the crap out of the POS stock clutch... Anyway, if I did see any low end
losses (which I still debate) I solved it by disconnecting the EGR. I have
more power now in all areas, and it's wonderful on the autocross track where
I never even get to the 4200 rpm TVIS mark.
Believe me, it breathes better now! I'm not saying the stock manifold isn't
good, but it does weigh alot more, and we did see some gains. I don't think
it'd do much good by itself without an intake or exhaust change, just as I
didn't see much change by just doing the intake, but together it makes a
difference, IMHO.
Dave A.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: "Gregory Chan"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:51:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Headers
Hi all,
The subject of headers has once again arisen and I can say
that many do not really understand what it does for the motor.
There are three types of exhaust manifold. The first type is the
stock manifold which gives excellent all-round performance with
no flat spots and a smooth powerband. The second type is the
Tri-Y design or 4-2-1 which is supposed to give an increase in mid-
range and top end power over the stock manifold. The third type is
the 4-1 and this type is supposed to give a greater increase in top
end power with a weak bottom and mid range. The header is also
supposed to enhance any modifications to the motor in conjunction
with a free flowing exhaust.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 22:56:16 +1000 (EST)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Scott
Subject: Gear Ratios
Anybody know what the gear ratios are for a standard late model T50 (as
comes behind a 4A-GE in a Corolla GTS)?
What about close ratio gearsets available for this box?
Dr. Scotch
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To: toyota-mods
From: "john.limcangco"
Date: 14 May 96 8:59:18
Subject: Re: Tire pressure again
On the "Nascar Racing" pc-game from Papyrus Software, there's a portion in the
game where you can set tire pressures.... and according to the technical manual
that came with the software, the best way to set tire pressures is to check
tire temperatures -- on the center portion and in the outer edges of the each
tire. Check the temperatures after doing several hot laps on the track. Its
interesting to note that tire pressure on one particular track may not work
well on another track.
If its hotter in the inside, then decrease pressure. If its hotter on the
outside, increase presssure. Makes sense.
I only race simulators, but I'm willing to believe that that's how it is in the
real world.
John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18RG
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
To: micky @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com (micky thutiyakul) @ internet
cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet (bcc: John Limcangco)
From: abulkh34 @ matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly abulkheir) @ internet
Date: 05/14/96 12:37 AM
Subject: Re: Tire pressure again
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure...
> Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire
> pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi).
Micky,
He's right. It all has to do with the driving conditions (speed and
how much you heat the tires up), and of course what kind of tire. That's
why the best way to optimize your contact patch is to do that temperature
test with the needle. You want to get the most tread on the ground. If you
go too high in pressure, the tire will be like a doughnut and the outer
edges will not contact the road as much as the center, just like your friend
mentioned. If you go too low in pressure, the center of the tread will not
contact the road as much and the outer edges of the tire will show a higher
temperature reading then the center. It's all relative. There is no magic
number. This 45 psi number is just an estimate for street tires as to the
limit where they start to "doughnut".
Happy Roadholding :)
Aly
'85 MR2
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 07:16:39 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: QUI HONG
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
QUI HONG wrote:
>
> I just called TRD and ask for price of headers for my 88 MR2 and they
> quoted me $349.95. After I called Select Sales and they quoted my only
> $269.95. What a differents!!!
>
> Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He
> told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers
> to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me
> engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think?
>
> Also if anyone has some advise on how to install it, please inform.
> Thanks.
>
> QUI HONG
> quihong@orion.sfsu.edu
wrapping exhaust headers does have several advantages like keeping the engine bay cool and keeping the exhaust
charge heat within the exhaust to help in keeping up the velocity of the hot gases. Unfortunately, that
salesman is right. Unless the headers are made of stainless steel, they will crack when wrapped. BTW, TRD
sells Doug Thorley headers under their badge.
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 07:39:26 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: Gregory Chan
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Headers
Gregory Chan wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> The subject of headers has once again arisen and I can say
> that many do not really understand what it does for the motor.
> There are three types of exhaust manifold. The first type is the
> stock manifold which gives excellent all-round performance with
> no flat spots and a smooth powerband. The second type is the
> Tri-Y design or 4-2-1 which is supposed to give an increase in mid-
> range and top end power over the stock manifold. The third type is
> the 4-1 and this type is supposed to give a greater increase in top
> end power with a weak bottom and mid range. The header is also
> supposed to enhance any modifications to the motor in conjunction
> with a free flowing exhaust.
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong.
>
> gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
I totally agree. A headers main purpose is to increase the scavenging affect of each cylinder. This may show
a little or a lot of improvement based on the modifications already done to the engine.
I believe everyone here is right in their own way. If someone has a somewhat stock motor then installs a
header, gains are there, but minimal (stock cams have very little intake to exhaust overlap). Now if someone
with high compression pistons and long duration cams comes around and bolts on these same headers, the gains
will be tremendous.
Do headers increase power? Yes they do, better for some applications. And yes, there are compromises. An
example is the 4 into 1 style header. These are the types usually used for fully built race motors. While
they give superior exhaust scavenging in the higher rpm ranges, they decrease gas velocity midrange and below,
making that engine unstreetable.
I been reading many of you autocrossers favor stock manifolds. I'm guessing this is due to the fact that you
need a very broad torque band. For drag racers, where the rpms stay at or near redline 90% of the time,
headers do improve ETs.
Bottom line.... different types of racing, different ways of tuning the engine.
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'"
From: Tony York
Subject: Snaking !
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 07:49:49 PDT
Hi mod-bods,
I am starting to get a problem with the car, on acceleration
especially, snaking (on country roads mainly).
Is this due to the anti-sway bars being worn or are they for
something completely different ?
Please help it's starting to feel a bit dangerous when overtaking.
thanks
Tony York
1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS
Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour: White
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles: 101000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 07:54:52 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: Bill Sherwood
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
Bill Sherwood wrote:
>
> Hi there,
> D Aucott said -
> >At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I
> >installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine,
> >then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza
> >exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then
> >installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light
> >flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out
> >on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and
> >the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in
> >conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over
> >stock.
> >
> No debate neccesary - what you have said is basically in agreement with what
> I said. (You must read what I wrote a bit more carefully though! :)
> I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power
> than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas
> of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing,
> I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and
> therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard
> engine at low revs. :)
> I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel -
> they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you
> actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a
> guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up
> 0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length!
>
> The B Man.
wow..... half a second with just a lightened flywheel. Sounds too hard to believe. Maybe on a 'stock'
vehicle. But the faster you go in the quarter mile, the horsepower needed to lower your ETs multiplies. And I
don't think just a flywheel will give that much free horsepower.
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
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To: toyota-mods
From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus
Date: 14 May 96 11:31:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Header Coating..I know, again!
I like the idea of these ceramic coatings. I don't know what the numbers are,
and I suspect it's something that's a fair way down the engine tuning
checklist, but we sent most of the exhaust system of my little brother's SCCA
GT Scirocco out to Jet-Hot just to give it a try. The results are very good.
Looks good, tough, say about as tough as an epoxy or powder coat finish, and
does decrease external temps. How much, I don't know. One of the nice things
about the ceramic coating is that it coats internal and external surfaces. So
the steel exhaust parts are insulated from heat from the inside, and of course,
moisture can never touch the steel, and even the steel is effectively insulated
from heat. We expect these exhaust parts will last just about indefinitely.
Bill S's point is well taken, but in this case, hey, try wrapping ceramic
coated exhaust bits in header wrap. Two of the biggest problems with header
wrap on mild steel is that the mild steel gets excessively hot and breaks down,
and also rain-soaked header wrap water can expose the steel to moisture longer
than unwrapped pipes. Well, each condtion is mitigated in the case of a
ceramic-coated header--the steel is insulated from heat from the inside of the
tube, mitigating condition number one, and the outside surface of the tubing
protected from moisture by the ceramic coating. A combo of ceramic and header
wrap should satisfy Bill's temperature containment concerns.
- Steven
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:36:02 -0400
From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Taping Headers
> Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He
> told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers
> to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me
> engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think?
>
The salesman is right. However DT headers are 14 guage, not 16 guage
like many out there. DT will make stainless, if you have the money.
The wrap that is put on the headers breaks down over a SMALL period of
time and allows moisture (through condensation) to be trapped in the
wrap, this also aids in premature corrision of the headers, and does
absolutly nothing for the inside of the header, which will also rust
and corrode.
I had Jett Hot send me information on there coatings and it really looks
like the way to go. The header is coated inside and out, if Jett Hot
coats a new header, they will give you a lifetime warranty against rust.
If the coating ever chips, they say to send it back and they will re-coat it.
In their information packet, included was a video where a guy took a ball
pin hammer and beat on a header that had been coated, didn't dammage the
coating at all. They even tell you if you are not satisfied with the
coating, return the headers and they will remove the coating, return the
header and give you a full refund.
Can't speak for the MR2's here and about the MR2 stock manifold, but on my
4-runner (I seem to be the only one in this group with a 4-runner) headers are
tuned for a particular rpm band by the diamenter of the tube and the length
of the tube. It is easy for a manufacture to design the header for low end
or top end performance, on a dyno they really work, by the seat of the pants
dyno, its just hard to judge how well.
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 11:49:57 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary)
Subject: Re: Tire pressure again
Lots of talk about how to set the right tire presure.
Racers always look at tire temps as a diagnostic for setting pressure and
other suspension settings. Also look at how far around the shoulder of the
tire thescuff marks are. Better yet, put a white mark across the shoulder
and see how far it rubs off. But with any discussion of tires, remember
that every tire brand and tire size will behave differently. The only way
to optimize a tire for a particular set of conditions is to test it in
those conditions. For example, among the autocrossing crowd, BFG R1s have
been very popular, but the new Hoosier radial that just came out seems very
competitive, maybe even faster. However, the BFG's typically work best at
around 30 psi (depending on car weight, etc obviously) but the Hoosiers
will self destruct at that pressure, and require something more like 40+
psi. Experience with street tires on autocross tracks, however, shows that
at less than 40 psi almost any street tire will fold over and scuff the
sidewall at maximum load. Mild street driving at the high pressures would
wear out the middle of the tread and risk damaging the tires if temps got
too high. The GENERAL rule about adjusting oversteer/understeer is that
reducing the pressure in the rears allows them to flex more, which allows
increased slip angles at the rear, decreasing understeer. Higher pressures
in the front decrease the tires' flexing and consequently sharpens steering
feel and response. Its also GENERALLY true that a tire's grip will
decrease more slowly as you raise the pressure above the optimum pressure
than for lowering the pressure below it. So you're usually better off
erring on the side of more pressure. But as I said before, the best setup
for your particular car with your particular suspension on your particular
tires under your particular conditions may vary widely, so I won't present
any pressure numbers (though I don't exceed the max pressure onthe sidewall
for street driving- I prefer to save the all-out on-the-edge driving for
the racecourse). Check wear patterns and temp profiles and handling feel
and decide what you like best.
Happy driving!
Michael Leary
Ithaca NY
1987 Corolla GT-S (E Stock)
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 13:51:24 EDT
From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Headers
Gerald writes:
****************************************************************************
I believe everyone here is right in their own way. If someone has a somewhat
stock motor then installs a
header, gains are there, but minimal (stock cams have very little intake to
exhaust overlap). Now if someone
with high compression pistons and long duration cams comes around and bolts on
these same headers, the gains
will be tremendous.
****************************************************************************
I think we're all losing sight of another factor - the gains realized by
getting a header depend largely on the stock setup. For example, my
1986 CRX Si had a TERRIBLE header from the factory - very abrupt curves,
poor flow. Just installing a 4-1 Jackson Racing header gave me HUGE gains
(with a Bassani tailpipe) across the entire rev range, with a big hit at
4500 RPM. After adding the Jackson Racing camshaft for the car
(supplied by Web Cam) the power hit moved from about 4500 to 3500rpm.
For that car, just adding a header is a very good way to gain power.
However, the 4-2-1 design on the MR2 4AGE is already very good. I gained
very little by installing the TRD header (with my Monza tailpipe) on my MR2.
Hopefully I will get more gain when I install my HKS 272 cams. Had I known
the stock 4AGE header was so good, I'd have saved my money until I also
got the camshafts.
Christopher T. Berchin
1988 MR2
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
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To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: William Martin
Subject: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 13:16:31
I imagine that the following question has been posed to this
list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically,
please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota
pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't
burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe
a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!"
I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6
in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my
pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the
engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop
up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:38:09 -0600
From: Brian Lofthouse
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Tire Help
You mentioned your friend was in Korea?
I believe there was a racing series in Canada (don't know about US)
sponsored by Hankook, using Z2000 racing tires. I think Hankook is
Korean...
I have no experience with these tires, but the brochure shows them as
having a shallow asymetrical tread, with a treadwear of 60. Maybe these
are real cheap in Korea, mebbe not.
Brian
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:17:28 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup
>From: William Martin
>I imagine that the following question has been posed to this
>list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically,
>please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota
>pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't
>burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe
>a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!"
>I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6
>in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my
>pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the
>engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop
>up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill
An engine swap like this one is likely to be very difficult. A better idea
would be to modify your current engine. Does your truck have the 22R
engine? If so, Downey (I'm not sure of how to contact them, I'm sure some
other Toy-modders know) makes a multitude of performance parts to upgrade
that engine.
Dave
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 15:34:21 -0400 (EDT)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Bruce Crawford
Subject: Headers and Tape and JetHot
All this talk about headers:
>I had Jett Hot send me information on there coatings and it really looks
>like the way to go. The header is coated inside and out, if Jett Hot
>coats a new header, they will give you a lifetime warranty against rust.
I modified my intake with a 7" conical filter, straightened the intake
plumbing (see Dave's FAQ on the MR2 homepage), eliminated the cat, added a
Jacobs ignition box and coil, and added a 4mm overbored throttle body
*before* I installed the TRD header. The header, FWIW, is JetHot coated
inside and out.
The performance increase can't be quantitatively measured because I didn't
do any 40-70 times or 1/4s, but I can say the throttle response is far, far
better than before. There is no cool O2 sensor induced richness, in fact,
the sensor is about 18" closer to the exhaust port than on the factory iron
manifold, necessitating the extension of the sensor wire on later MK1 MR2s.
My OEM sensor is a four wire heated job anyway. Lastly, you will need a
different EGR tube on later MK1 MR2s. I fabricated one to fit.
My observations: The TVIS 'hit' is very gradual as opposed to rather abrupt.
The car actually pulls well from 3500rpm up to the rev limiter. Noise is the
problem. I had to make a new exhaust to quiet the thing down. I had a
Supertrapp (REALLY LOUD), switched to a Pacesetter Monza (like Chris B.)
that I got off a wreck (still too loud), and finally made a 2.25" mandrel
bent system with a Dynomax muffler. Ahh...quiet. The JetHot coating is
pretty neat, as radiated heat from the header is perhaps no worse than the
factory manifold with the heat shields in place. My thermometer (zip tied to
my AFM) indicates the underhood temp about 10 degrees less than before with
comparable ambient temperatures.
I'm putting in a set of 250cc injectors now (right now), as the a/f mixture
is a little lean in higher rpms, and I have a set of special ground
prototype cams that I will be testing this weekend that offer higher lift
and longer duration.
IMHO, the header does make quite a bit of difference in power with the
previous mods made first. Also, IMHO, the flex pipe in the lower manifold is
the primary point of restriction. Next, the stock cat flanges are only
1.75". And the factory muffler is no prize either, although it is quiet. A
header blowing through the stock cat isn't going to do as good as it could
otherwise.
Dave Aucott - let us know how your 'testpipe' works.
Later,
-------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Crawford...............crawford@planet.earthcom.net
'89 MR2 n/a
'79 RX-7 ITA (Still not done)
'83 RX-7 GSL
-------------------------------------------------------------
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To: toyota mods
From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus
Date: 14 May 96 16:53:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Tire pressure again
In search of the perfect tire pressure, Micky writes:
>I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure...
>Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire
>pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi).
Increasing tire pressure over the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure
usually does increase grip. Simply increasing tire pressure as a rule to
increase grip doesn't work out. There many variables leading to proper tire
pressure--cornering loads, suspension geometry, tire design, vehicle weight,
surface and air temperatures, etc. Formula One cars don't run more than 20 psi
in their tires, and, of course, they inflate the tires with nitrogen. On my
Lotus Elan and on Lotus/Caterham Sevens that friends own tire pressure can also
be as low as just over 20 psi. I run 32 psi front and rear with the Yokohama
A-008 RS's on my TVR 2500M; for BFG R1's on the same car, I run slightly lower
tire pressures.
Simply, you want enough pressure in your tires to provide support to the tire
carcass so that the deflection of the tire carcass under maximum cornering
load/maximum carcass deflection maintains a tire shape that allows the largest
contact area between the tire tread cap and the road surface.
When you don't have a pyrometer, there's an easy way to get an idea of correct
tire pressure for a given vehicle and setup. It's the old white shoe polish or
chalk trick. Mark the tire where the tread cap meets the sidewall. Just take
the shoe polish dauber and put a nice mark of polish there. Run a run, or
two. Look at how much of the polish, or chalk, got scrubbed off. If the
polish is gone, and scrub marks are down the sidewall, you need to increase
inflation pressure. If none of the polish is scrubbed off, and there's no sign
of scrubbing close to the edge of the tread cap, you need to reduce inflation
pressure. Many tires, also, have small triangles molded into them at the edge
of the tread cap. A rule is that these triangles should be scrubbed in half at
correct tire pressure. Basically, if your tire is overinflated, the shape of
the tread will be convex relative to the road, and you'll be riding on less
than the full tread width all the time. If the tire is underinflated, in
cornering you'll be rolling over onto the tire sidewalls, and cornering on the
sidewalls isn't the most useful thing if you're looking for maximum grip.
If you've got a pyrometer, just take temperature measures at the inside and
outside edges, and the center of the tire. These numbers should not vary
widely from one another. A pyrometer can also help with assessing proper
chassis settings, too.
Things can get a bit more complicated quickly. If you've got your tire
pressures seemingly under control, and you're still getting excessive
understeer, say. This is something a pyrometer would have indicated by a cool
inside edge relative to the outside edge. So what do you do? Well, there're a
number of things to try. You can increase negative camber at the front. Many
road cars don't provide large camber adjustments, so you can install camber
plates to provide this range of adjustment. Or you can decrease the front roll
stiffness relative to the rear of the car--make the front springs, shocks or
anti-roll bar less stiff relative to the rear of the car, or make the rear
springs, shocks, or anti-roll bar stiffer at the rear of the car. This is
saying the same thing. There're other issues to be concerned about when
considering changes, but a discussion of this is somewhat beyond just tire
pressures. In the stock autocross classes where modifications are limited,
and understeer can't be solved with solutions that allow the car to remain in a
stock class, some folks overinflate the rear tires to reduce grip there, or use
a left-foot breaking technique.
>I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and
>he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at
>slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher
>velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the
mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of
>the tread.
Yes, this phenomena does occur, but is moot for most of us mortals. This
dimension change isn't a particular concern of road racers when sorting out a
chassis.
>With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a
>"bouncy" feeling.
Sounds simply like overinflation. If you inflate a tire above a manufacturer's
recommended pressure, sure, the vehicle's ride quality will change, the ride
will get firmer.
>This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is
>he right? This would explain the differences between what I have
>experienced and what everyone else on the list believes.
The issue with increased sidewall height is rather straightforward. It's
simply a spring that's difficult to control, and introduced undesirable effects
on cornering performance across a number of dimensions. Making the sidewall
stiffer reduces the effects. For folks who aren't so worried about performance
or keen handling, higher sidewalls mean a softer ride, and even more protection
for expensive alloy wheels on public roads.
Hope that helps,
- Steven
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From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 15:05:10 CST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup
Dave
Why do you think it would be difficult? Do you have first hand experience?
Wasn't the 22R engine used in the same style truck as the v6?
Bill
I don't think it would be a cheap swap because of limited availability of this
engine. You would also probably need to change the transmission and get all of
the electronics. If you are looking for a little more power (like 10-30HP)
rebuild the 22R with some mods. If you want more than that, look into a swap.
Get more cubic inches. I think there are conversion kits to put a v8 chevy
engine into 4X4 toys. I don't know if it would work for two wheel drive trucks.
If anyone has additional info on engine swaps for toyota truck I would like to
know. Good or bad results, please.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup
Author: David Rees at INTERNET-HUB
Date: 5/14/96 2:51 PM
>From: William Martin
>I imagine that the following question has been posed to this
>list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically,
>please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota
>pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't
>burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe
>a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!"
>I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6
>in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my
>pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the
>engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop
>up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill
An engine swap like this one is likely to be very difficult. A better idea
would be to modify your current engine. Does your truck have the 22R
engine? If so, Downey (I'm not sure of how to contact them, I'm sure some
other Toy-modders know) makes a multitude of performance parts to upgrade
that engine.
Dave
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 15:46:33 -0600
Subject: Re: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup
To: William Martin ,
Like the other reply said, this swap would be hard. The first year for the V-6
was '86 as I remember. you don't even have the correct frame mounting points
for the 3.0 v-6! The 3.0 v-6 doesn't buy you much horsepower per $$,
considering the cost of a swap like this could run around $1000 for a COMPLETE
used engine, and the time to fabricate custom motor mounts. I'd be inclined to
first build the 22R (E). I am verry happy with mine after the mods, and the
performance was plenty to keep it going about 60 up the passes in colorado on
the way to Moab. This probably provides the most cost effective way to up the
power. There are a lot of aftermarket parts for this engine, and if you want to
talk about this I'll tell you what I did, and what I'd do differently if I do it
again.
If real power is what your after then this is my choice of setups in the
order of preference:
1) 5.0L FI ford, NV4500 trans, adapter for the toy xfer case.
2) Chevy 4.3l Vortec V-6 (also FI), TH700R4, adapter to xfer.
3) Chevy 350 V-8, FI or carb, TH700R4, adapter for xfer. (need 2" min.
body lift)
4) 4.3L chevy, carb manifold, belhousing adapter for stock trans.
5) Last resort - 350 chevy - stock trans w/adapter (body lift)
If you can tell I loke the autos for the simple reason of less driveline
abuse potental, and smooth off-roading. In addition to almost all of these, I'd
put on about 2" SUSPENSION lift and 33" tires to lower the cruise rpm's with the
factory 4.10's. I don't like the chevy engines for the fact that they usually
require a body lift to clear the distributor in the back. I have seen 1 v-8
insalled with a 350and 1" body, and a little 'hammer work' on the firewall to
clear a NON-HEI distributor.
Good luck in deciding, I know it took me a long tome to decide, but now I am
happy with the performance of the little toy and I still manage fair gas
mileage.
- Brian
P.S. if anyone cares, you can see pictures at my website... it's :
http://www.kcnet.com/~bwiencek
Folow the Cars link, or follow the moab link to see pictures, and hopefully soon
AVI clips! (as soon as I can get my PCI video card talking to my Video capture
board)
On Tue, 14 May 1996, William Martin wrote:
>
>I imagine that the following question has been posed to this
>list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically,
>please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota
>pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't
>burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe
>a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!"
>I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6
>in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my
>pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the
>engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop
>up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill
>
>.
>
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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 18:33:43 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MK1 Headers
Well,
I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any
real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the
manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than
any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2
sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor
and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust
and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard
exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated
sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for
the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant
change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power
gain is.
I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard
one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They
are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a
car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding
and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money?
Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?)
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 20:10:20 -0400 (EDT)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Bruce Crawford
Subject: Mk1 injector upgrade
I just finished installing a set of balanced 250cc/min injectors into my '89
MK1 and the outcome was GREAT. After installing a 7" conical filter,
straightened intake plumbing, a bored TB, header and 2.25" exhaust (no cat),
the a/f ratio was lean through most of the rpm range. Although I wish I had
an EGT at this point, I don't.
After the injector installation, the car pulls much harder at WFO, and even
idles nicer (this may be the effects of the balanced injectors??). At
cruise, the a/f is right on the money, so apparently, the ECU is happy also.
Tomorrow, I'll do some 40-70 times to get a benchmark before the special
cams go in.
FWIW, the old injectors came out SPOTLESS after 116,000 miles. Apparently
the detergents in premium fuel really do work.
Later,
-------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Crawford...............crawford@planet.earthcom.net
'89 MR2 n/a
'79 RX-7 ITA (Still not done)
'83 RX-7 GSL
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: Headers
To: cberchin.ford@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher T. Berchin USAET)
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 21:48:19 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> Gerald writes:
> ****************************************************************************
> I believe everyone here is right in their own way. If someone has a somewhat
> stock motor then installs a
> header, gains are there, but minimal (stock cams have very little intake to
> exhaust overlap). Now if someone
> with high compression pistons and long duration cams comes around and bolts on
> these same headers, the gains
> will be tremendous.
> ****************************************************************************
>
> I think we're all losing sight of another factor - the gains realized by
> getting a header depend largely on the stock setup. For example, my
> 1986 CRX Si had a TERRIBLE header from the factory - very abrupt curves,
> poor flow. Just installing a 4-1 Jackson Racing header gave me HUGE gains
> (with a Bassani tailpipe) across the entire rev range, with a big hit at
> 4500 RPM. After adding the Jackson Racing camshaft for the car
> (supplied by Web Cam) the power hit moved from about 4500 to 3500rpm.
> For that car, just adding a header is a very good way to gain power.
> However, the 4-2-1 design on the MR2 4AGE is already very good. I gained
> very little by installing the TRD header (with my Monza tailpipe) on my MR2.
> Hopefully I will get more gain when I install my HKS 272 cams. Had I known
> the stock 4AGE header was so good, I'd have saved my money until I also
> got the camshafts.
>
> Christopher T. Berchin
> 1988 MR2
> Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
>
Christopher,
I was just wondering if you had your TRD header ceramic coated, or
did you leave it with the chrome plated finish?
Thanks :)
Aly
'85 MR2
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Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 21:12:57 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Mk II '91 MR2T ignition hesitation.
I've been experiencing some igntion hesitiation on my '91 MR2T, and I've
now deduced the following:
* It's under all driving conditions, temp ranges, rpm ranges, speed ranges, etc.
* It seems most likely to happen on *humid* days - not moisture, but
humitidy, related.
I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap,
distributor rotor, and coil wire (comes with the spark plug wires). The
fuel filter is on it's way from Lou Fusz. Even if it's not that, it needs
to be replaced now anyway.
I finally did the ECU test (short Te and E? - forget exactly). Even *I*
need to RTFM every now and then. :) Got 14 - Ignitor, Coil or ECU, 'IGF(?)
not getting signal 8-11 time in a row'. Or something like that.
Anyway, any opinions out there? What would be first - the ignitor? And
which is it? One of the two 'finned' things over the coil, or the small
block between the 'finned' things and the fuse box. I know the little thing
on the *other* side of the 'finned' things is the a/c idle up circuit (or
darn well looks like one).
Anyone else have this problem? Did replacing the ignitor fix the problem,
if you *did* have this problem? Thanks in advance for any info anyone can
provide.
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 2X CD-ROM burner - Feel The Burn
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 00:24:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: Craig A Terlau
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: aconitej@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota Pickup
A friend of mine who now drives a Starlet is looking to purchase a used
four wheel drive Toyota pickup and asked me for advice. Since I know
very little about these vehicles, I thought I would ask the experts. He
is looking for a mid 80's to early 90's truck. Are there any years,
models, engines, etc. that are more desirable or to avoid? Were there
ever diesel engines offered in these trucks? What is the best used truck
to buy? Thanks in advance for any advice!
___
(o o)
+-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+
| Craig |
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:47:33 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
>Well,
>I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any
>real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the
>manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than
>any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2
>sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor
>and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust
>and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard
>exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated
>sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for
>the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant
>change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power
>gain is.
>
>I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard
>one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They
>are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a
>car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding
>and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money?
>Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?)
>
Yup. But you just can't help some people - they have to spend money when
they don't need to.
As the saying goes, "There's one born every minute."
The B Man.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:47:42 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Headers
D Aucott wrote - (replying to me)
>>I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power
>>than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas
>>of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing,
>>I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and
>>therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard
>>engine at low revs. :)
>
>I disagree. The "drag racing" we did was from a rolling start of 2000 rpm
>for the sole purpose of checking low end power and taking the driver skill
>out of it. I also have a superior clutch to Chris now so an offline start
>would be unfair -- I could drop it at 4500 and keep it there, he'd just burn
>the crap out of the POS stock clutch... Anyway, if I did see any low end
>losses (which I still debate) I solved it by disconnecting the EGR. I have
>more power now in all areas, and it's wonderful on the autocross track where
>I never even get to the 4200 rpm TVIS mark.
>
Again you are agreeing with me, but saying you are _not_.
Perhaps if you had some more extensive racing experience, you would know
that virtually ALL of your performance gain that you claim is from your
light flywheel, especially in the autocross events.
Also, FWIW, I run a standard Toyota clutch and have no problems with it at
all. (That includes 6000+ rpm burnouts for 1/4 mile runs.) True, it _is_
marginal, but I change gears slightly differently to most people and it
seems to make the clutch last longer.
The B Man.
>Believe me, it breathes better now! I'm not saying the stock manifold isn't
>good, but it does weigh alot more, and we did see some gains. I don't think
>it'd do much good by itself without an intake or exhaust change, just as I
>didn't see much change by just doing the intake, but together it makes a
>difference, IMHO.
>
>Dave A.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:47:57 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
>> I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel -
>> they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you
>> actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a
>> guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up
>> 0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length!
>>
>> The B Man.
>
>wow..... half a second with just a lightened flywheel.
>Sounds too hard to believe. Maybe on a 'stock'
>vehicle.
>
Yes, true, that is compared to an original 'heavy' flywheel.
>But the faster you go in the quarter mile, the horsepower needed to lower
>your ETs multiplies. And I don't think just a flywheel will give that much
>free horsepower.
>
Again true, but a flywheel of _any_ weight will not give you 'free'
horsepower, only let you use what you have more effectively.
To give three practical (real life) examples -
1. A friends' 2TG powered KE20. Exiting a particular corner with the
original 'heavy' flywheel full throttle could be used with out wheelspin.
With a very light racing flywheel, (and NO other changes) the car broke into
immediate wheelspin. The engine had no extra power, so the light flywheel
appeared to give the car extra power, or, "let you use what you have more
effectively". Lap times dropped as well, though by how much I could not tell
you. FWIW, on the new engine I'm building for my AE-86, I will be using an
alloy flywheel with a steel ring inserted for the clutch to rub on.
2. Drag racers seem to go for one extreme or the other. I believe the 'Top
Fuel' drag cars have very little weight on the flywheel, but some of the
lesser classes use very heavy flywheels. As an example I know of a Mazda 13B
turbo RX-7 that has a 30 lb flywheel! I guess this is to keep the rpm more
stable once high rpms have been reached. (Another rule - of - thumb? For
drag racing Supercharged cars use light flywheels, and turbo cars use heavy??)
3. The Formula One boys must use almost no flywheel at all - in an interview
with a Judd engineer, the engineer was quoted as saying that "if the
throttle was held full open for one second, we have calculated that the
engine would rev to about 120,000 rpm. But it would probably blow up first!"
That's a hell of an increase in revs-per-second!
When I bought the alloy flywheel for my racing car engine, the engineer that
built it said that the reduction in weight would be worth over 1/2 second a
lap. This was _after_ I'd payed for it, so I'd say he was not trying to sell
it to me again. :)
As for the old wives tale that a light flywheel causes a rough idle, it's
just that - rubbish. (In my experience) The engine in my racing car is a
Suzuki GTi 1300cc, and puts out about 170hp - it idles at 1500 rpm with
hardly any 'lumpyness'. The clutch, clutch plate, and flywheel combined
weigh 13 lbs.
The B Man.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:48:04 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Headers
>Hi all,
> The subject of headers has once again arisen and I can say
>that many do not really understand what it does for the motor.
>There are three types of exhaust manifold. The first type is the
>stock manifold which gives excellent all-round performance with
>no flat spots and a smooth powerband. The second type is the
>Tri-Y design or 4-2-1 which is supposed to give an increase in mid-
>range and top end power over the stock manifold. The third type is
>the 4-1 and this type is supposed to give a greater increase in top
>end power with a weak bottom and mid range. The header is also
>supposed to enhance any modifications to the motor in conjunction
>with a free flowing exhaust.
>
>Correct me if I'm wrong.
>
>gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca
>
Completely correct. Greg Chan is informed, and others are not, thus nature
balances itself.
The B Man.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:48:11 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Headers
Gerald San Agustin wrote -
>Do headers increase power? Yes they do, better for some applications. And
yes, there are compromises. An
>example is the 4 into 1 style header. These are the types usually used for
fully built race motors. While
>they give superior exhaust scavenging in the higher rpm ranges, they
decrease gas velocity midrange and below,
>making that engine unstreetable.
>
Yup, though perhaps with not totally unstreetable, merely unpleasant in
varying degrees. :)
>I been reading many of you autocrossers favor stock manifolds. I'm
guessing this is due to the fact that you
>need a very broad torque band. For drag racers, where the rpms stay at or
near redline 90% of the time,
>headers do improve ETs.
>
>Bottom line.... different types of racing, different ways of tuning the engine.
>
Yup. It's the old "swings & roundabouts" story, though modern technology can
help quite a bit.
The B Man.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:03:33 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MKI Buyer
*** Resending note of 05/15/96 07:49
David A. wrote:
>lastly, what year do u guys consider the most bang for the buck?
From a chassis point of view I like the '86 model. Toyota redesigned
the rear suspension to increase the understeer on the street, and in doing
so eliminated the mounting points for the rear sway bar. Most of the
performance goodies (TRD header, Susp Tech bars, etc) are made to bolt right
up to the '85 or '86, but need finesse to bolt up to the '87 or '88. This
is not to say you can't upgrade a later model, cuz Chris B's '88 works
quite well with a full complement of ADDCO (aka TRD) bars, but he's had alot
more trouble getting it there. The '85 is the only one that will take the
HKS light flywheel as stock, but it can be bolted up to any of them.
Lastly, if you're interested in options, the '86 had everything in most cases,
while many '87/'88 were stripped. The '85 will probably not have the side
skirts. All this probably won't matter if you're rally racing the car anyhoo.
Dave A. :)
Two 1986 MR2s
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:22:52 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Headers
It appears I did start a debate... as well as a few "opinions." Header
or no header, you decide. I like mine, others do not. Perhaps when I
put together my new '86 I'll hook up everything without the header and
then put it in to see the difference -- that way I won't have the clutter
of the flywheel and exhaust to blur the effects.
Dave A.
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Date: 15 May 96 08:48:39 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: Dave Abitol
Cc: "Steve B." ,
Subject: Nose Job
Hello all,
For about 4 months now, I have been living with a dented nose. I have a new
one and am having it painted. How difficult is it to change the nose?? Can /
should I attempt this myself?
Later
Larry S
91 MR2 T
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Date: 15 May 96 08:48:43 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: "Steve B."
Cc: Geoff ,
Subject: From Restrictor to Bleeder
Hello all,
I have decided to install my TVVC in the cockpit as opposed to in the
engine bay due to unreliable / unpredictable operation. Until yesterday
I had the TVVC hooked up as a restrictor to the actuator. I have heard
that setting it up as a bleeder to the atmos is better both operationally
and for installing. I don't like to drill through the fire wall *ever* so one
hole is better than two. I have placed a T connector inline in the hose
from the compressor housing to the actuator. The other hose goes to
the input side of the TVVC. After doing this, I am not able to get boost
higher than stock!!! Am I leaving something out?? ARGH!! Being the
boost junkie that I am (love anything over and above 15 psi) I'm goin
kwazzy! Any hints / help is greatly appreciated (as usual)
Larry S
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:13:41 -0400
From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Headers
To get it straight from the horses mouth instead of everyones opinions,
I called Doug Thorley to get info on headers. Anyone who is interested
may want to do the same. Doug Thorleys phone # is (909) 735-7280 Pacific Time.
I had heard from so many people that DT bent the headers for Downy, well
according to DT this is nothing but a rumor (for the 3.0L V6 anyway, didn't ask
about the 4 banger). I would question DT as to whether they bend the pipes for
TRD, unless someone knows for a fact, for those that are interested anyway.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:25:45 -0400
From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: RE: Toy Truck mods
I wouldn't waste my time or money retrofitting with the Toy 3.0 V6.
That is the engine I have in my 90 4-runner and it is well under powered.
There are a few things that you can do to squeeze more umph out of it
(which I have now done and am quiet happy with the results) but as previosly
mentioned, I would mod the 4 cyl before thinking about doing an engine swap.
There are MANY MORE after market upgrades available for the 4 cyl vs the 3.0L
V6 and they seem a little cheaper to boot.
Two of the biggest aftermarket parts suppliers for Toy trucks are Downey and
Northwest Off Road (NWOR). Their phone numbers are:
Downey (310) 949-9494
NWOR (360) 676-1200
Performance 1-800-553-2840
Products
All have catalogs, only the Performance Products catalog is free, all are
Pacific time zone.
I would look at everyones parts they offer and take their comments with a
grain of salt. Downey has a lot of good stuff but they are real bad to talk
shit about their competition. IMO NWOR actually has better headers.
Good luck
Steve
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 06:34:03 -0700
From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch )
Subject: Re: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup
To: William Martin
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
4-Runner that I use to tow my MR-2 to races with ( trailer weighs 4400
lbs loaded ) I was looking for something that would give me a little
more power.
My final configuration that I am happy with is:
K&N intake, Stock exaust manifold, high flow cat, Borla exaust and a
Downey mild EFI cam.
I've tried different headers, and have been disappointed.
I also looked at engine swaps but wasn't interested in the amount of
work invloved.
Thanks
John Welch
'86 4-Runner
'87 MR-2 Turbo
'78 Triumph Spitfire
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 07:31:14 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: headers
Bill Sherwood wrote:
>
> >Well,
> >I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any
> >real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the
> >manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than
> >any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2
> >sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor
> >and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust
> >and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard
> >exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated
> >sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for
> >the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant
> >change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power
> >gain is.
> >
> >I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard
> >one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They
> >are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a
> >car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding
> >and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money?
> >Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?)
> >
> Yup. But you just can't help some people - they have to spend money when
> they don't need to.
> As the saying goes, "There's one born every minute."
>
> The B Man.
my brother in law has an 84 corolla (4AGE). He brought it to Carlsbad Raceway in California in bone stock
form. He managed to get a best time of 16.7. A month later, for some reason, he purchased a header before
anything else (maybe because he got it dirt cheap). Anyways, we decided to return just to see if there were
any improvements. He managed to get a 16.31 with 'JUST' that header. (No air filter, exhaust, or flywheel
mods!!)
Hmmmmm...... must have been that extra tail wind or that bottle of 104+......
Like I said, I can't speak at all for autocrossers. As for drag racing applications, 4 tenths of a second is
money well spent if you ask me.
yup... "there's one drag racer born every minute, 1 autocrosser every two" =)
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:16:20 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Headers
bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> To the list,
> Well this header debate is really getting hot, for my 10 cents worth lets
> get something straight, I believe that for a 4AG with standard to 272 cams
> and standard to 10.3 pistons that changing the factory unit for another 4-2-1
> is of little if any help to your overall lap time or drivability. So many of
> the mods in this forum are done without accurate measurement and I believe
> so many of the results are found to be favourable simply because you paid
> money for something so it must be better in some way than the factory unit,
> This is an unpopular view perhaps but I know of so many people who modified
> their cars to the max to get blown away by the factory units!
> It isnt fair to say a header did something when you changed the exhaust and
> flywheel as well! I have a 4AG light flywheel and this makes the most seat of
> the pants difference of any mod I have done, and Bill's .2 of a second doesnt
> seem far off to me. As for heat tape, its a great thing. I doesnt do ANYTHING
> for power at all but stops your disy melting and your hands burning up when you
> change the starter on race day. You dont bind it down low as it will get wet
> and cause more problems than it solves. If Jet Hot is as cool then I would use
> it. As for the intake you shouldnt be taking air from the engine compartment
> anyway. Its so easy to make a tube to the outside world.
>
> As for the assumption that you need to change the factory headers when you put
> in big cams it may be the case for some engines but notice that Bill's 280 or
> were they 288's are still run out of the standard cast iron affair! As for the
> 2TG I didnt get one BHP out of headers until I went 3TG and openned the ports.
> No amount of header or exhaust work could get us over 205 BHP as we couldnt
> flow any more air.
> Bruce
again.... I can't speak about cars built for autocrossing. But so far, everyone has been saying "it sure feels
like .2 of a second" or "I get a better lap time with the stock header" and even "mildy built engines getting
blown away by stockers 'in the straights". Everyone is talking about road racing, which also involves
suspension and driving techniques.
We're talking about two different applications here. Drag racing needs an engine with a different power band
than an engine tuned for the turns. It doesn't matter if you flew by another vehicle with a header with your
stock piece. You're still on an autocross track as compared to a 1/4 mile straight. Do you floor that pedal
for 15 seconds straight? Does your rpms stay above 6000 at all times? Nope, you have to downshift and
negotiate that next turn, then reapply power.
In my personal opinion, drag racing is the best way to gauge any increase in horsepower. Since most driving is
with the throttle wide open near redline, back to back results can be achieved. Someone noted that changing to
a lightened flywheel caused more oversteer than the stocker when reapplying power. I also read an opinion
about Indy cars, Top Fuel dragsters, then rotary engines. Sorry, I don't rev to 12000, burn nitromethane, or
have two triangles spinning in my engine.
Since this debate is starting to get ugly, let's just leave drag racing applications for the drag racers and
the autocross applications to the road racers. Obviously everyone has had different results with different
setups. There is obviously a difference is the two types of racing and how the motor is used so let's just
leave it at that .....
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:07:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: QUI HONG
To: Bill Sherwood
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers
Hey,
About the flywheel reducing your 1/4 mile time by 0.2-0.5, it this true?
If so I would love to lighting my flywheel also....after I get my headers!
How much does it cost? Do they just shave it to make it lighter?
Thanks...This group is great...I get lots of ideas!!!
Qui
On Tue, 14 May 1996, Bill Sherwood wrote:
> Hi there,
> D Aucott said -
> >At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I
> >installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine,
> >then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza
> >exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then
> >installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light
> >flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out
> >on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and
> >the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in
> >conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over
> >stock.
> >
> No debate neccesary - what you have said is basically in agreement with what
> I said. (You must read what I wrote a bit more carefully though! :)
> I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power
> than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas
> of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing,
> I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and
> therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard
> engine at low revs. :)
> I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel -
> they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you
> actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a
> guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up
> 0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length!
>
> The B Man.
>
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:10:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jayson Entao
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tacoma 4-banger
Wow, that blazing header discussion is gonna need some thermal
wrap to keep the mailing-list temps down.. =) So let me pop in here.
I'm not up to snuff on the current iteration of R-series engines.
Are they using the 22RE on the base (4x2) Tacomas? And what is the
designation of the balance-shaft engine (150hp) on the 4x4 version? Is
there a selection of performance parts available for these engines, and
are they compatible with parts for the 22RE? Info appreciated!
-Jayson
Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:48:48 +0200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: info request
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Here is a question for the pros.
Given the E153 standard MR2 differential. There is a ring gear, the one that
drives the differential from the gearbox. It is mounted on the differential
with 16 screws.
Question: This ring gear has two sides. One is recessed more, the other less.
The book is NOT clear as to which side the mounting bolt heads rest. In the
large recessed side or in the less recessed side? This gear is heated and
fitted. It fits both ways but rests in different heights. I want to mount it
BEFORE opening the transaxle. If one mounts the screw heads in the less
recessed area the heads stick over the gear flush level. It does not seem
right, also the design drawings show the bolt heads on the large recessed
area, but the book indicates the large recessed area with an arrow showing
to the speed gear input, which means that the bolt heads will rest in the
less recessed area....wrong???????
I would appreciate the help of somebody that has gone all the way to the
differential.
Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D.
ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS
Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 12:45:56 -0600
To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>
From: cal@rt66.com (Cal Smith)
Subject: Re: From Restrictor to Bleeder
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Lawrence wrote:
>I have decided to install my TVVC in the cockpit as opposed to in the
>engine bay due to unreliable / unpredictable operation...
>I have placed a T connector inline in the hose
>from the compressor housing to the actuator. The other hose goes to
>the input side of the TVVC. After doing this, I am not able to get boost
>higher than stock!!! ...
First, installing the unit in the engine compartment will allow
shorter hoses and therefore less boost spikes. You will be able to run
higher continuous (read: controlled) boost levels because the spiking will
be much less severe. The unit should be mounted somewhere solid to insure
that it wouldn't get knocked around and lose its setting.
From the problems you stated after moving the actuator to the
cockpit, I'd say that the line to the TVVC is either crimped or blocked. If
you are using soft washer-resivoir type tubing it is entirely possible that
snaking the hose into the cockpit would be enough to block it off pretty
effectively. Use fuel-line (with the fiberglass braided middle section) to
insure that gases flow freely.
Remember that in restrictor configuration you want the gases to be
impeded. In bleeder configuration, with the bleeder connected with a "T"
rather than in series, the line to the bleeder MUST impede gas flow less
than the wastegate actuator in order to work. From what you've described,
it sounds like the easiest path for your gases is the stock wastegate
actuator.
Check the hose (blow into it and see if it is blocked), the
connections, and double-check the connection to the TVVC valve to make sure
it is properly hooked up to be a bleeder device.
Cal Smith
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 96 16:56:56 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Headers
To the list,
Well this header debate is really getting hot, for my 10 cents worth lets
get something straight, I believe that for a 4AG with standard to 272 cams
and standard to 10.3 pistons that changing the factory unit for another 4-2-1
is of little if any help to your overall lap time or drivability. So many of
the mods in this forum are done without accurate measurement and I believe
so many of the results are found to be favourable simply because you paid
money for something so it must be better in some way than the factory unit,
This is an unpopular view perhaps but I know of so many people who modified
their cars to the max to get blown away by the factory units!
It isnt fair to say a header did something when you changed the exhaust and
flywheel as well! I have a 4AG light flywheel and this makes the most seat of
the pants difference of any mod I have done, and Bill's .2 of a second doesnt
seem far off to me. As for heat tape, its a great thing. I doesnt do ANYTHING
for power at all but stops your disy melting and your hands burning up when you
change the starter on race day. You dont bind it down low as it will get wet
and cause more problems than it solves. If Jet Hot is as cool then I would use
it. As for the intake you shouldnt be taking air from the engine compartment
anyway. Its so easy to make a tube to the outside world.
As for the assumption that you need to change the factory headers when you put
in big cams it may be the case for some engines but notice that Bill's 280 or
were they 288's are still run out of the standard cast iron affair! As for the
2TG I didnt get one BHP out of headers until I went 3TG and openned the ports.
No amount of header or exhaust work could get us over 205 BHP as we couldnt
flow any more air.
Bruce
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Ted Looi
Subject: All this header stuff
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:29:23 +1000 (EST)
My turn to add my 2c (or whatever inflation is bringing it to now).
Firstly, my 4AGE is on a street car, not a race car. But I have spoken to
people who build race motors including 4AGEs.
The replacement of the factory cast iron headers can alter the characteristics
of a motor. They are built to specs provided by a customer (unless you buy
off the shelf). The interference style headers are seen more on the streets
purely because it takes up a lot less space. The lengths of the pipes are the
crucial part in "tuning" you engine for the rev range that you want. If
you had 4-1 headers with a 36" primary, then that would probably give you great
usefulness on the track (assuming you drive between 5500 and 8000rpm). Though
camshafts would show better gains I think.
I have a set of TRDs with run at 16" primaries in a 4-2-1 format. This dumps
into a 2.5" collector. On the dyno, it did not make much more power in terms
of peak hp@rpm, but gave a better and smoother curve at middling rpms.
The 4AGE motors that ran in the old GpA touring car format would produce a
quoted 210hp in all out format, or about 190hp for the longer races. But, they
did rev to 9500-10000rpm. They were also torn down after each race. This is
a few years ago and I expect that these days technology has enabled a few more
hp to be screwed out of them. Formula 1 motors are run to ~16000rpm, I hope
that they balance everything "very" well.
Oh well, had my say now. I can go back to driving my 4AGE which I now believe
is the smoothest twincam 1600 motor around. My other car has the Mazda B6
1.6L (MX5) and while it is great fun, it does not have the smoothness of the
4AGE (Even though it is a newer motor) but seems to have good flexibility in
the entire rev range.
TEd
--
-----------------------@____@--------------------------------------------------
__/~> `--' Ted Looi, Network/Host Security,
_/{___} DPI, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
/\ /\ '86 Seca AE82 4AGE "SXTC"
'91 MX5 BRG ted@dpi.qld.gov.au "TALK TO ME"
$ R we there yet?? Nope... R we there yet?? Nope... R we there yet?? Nope...
^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 16:09:41 -0700
From: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com (Gerald San Agustin )
Subject: Fwd: Re: headers
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
---- Begin Forwarded Message
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 11:52:33 -0500
To: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com
From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary)
Subject: Re: headers
Gerald wrote:
>my brother in law has an 84 corolla (4AGE). He brought it to Carlsbad
>Raceway in California in bone stock
>form. He managed to get a best time of 16.7. A month later, for some
>reason, he purchased a header before
>anything else (maybe because he got it dirt cheap). Anyways, we
decided
>to return just to see if there were
>any improvements. He managed to get a 16.31 with 'JUST' that header.
(No
>air filter, exhaust, or flywheel
>mods!!)
>
I've been meaning to check on this since the great header debate
started,
but I think the stock exhaust manifold on the Corolla 4AGs and the MR2
4AGs
might be different, because of the different exhaust pipe arrangements
(front engine vs mid engine). Aftermarket headers are not
interchangeable
between the cars because of the cat location, but does anyone know if
the
stock cast iron manifold is the same?
>yup... "there's one drag racer born every minute, 1 autocrosser every
two" =)
thats cause autocrossing requires more brain power than just "foot to
the
floor":-))) (Just yankin your chain :-)))
Michael Leary
Ithaca NY
1987 Corolla GT-S (E Stock)
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Are your headers coated, or not?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 19:25:37 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
TO EVERYONE RUNNING A TRD HEADER ON A MK1 MR2 ('85-'89) OR OTHER 4AGE CAR:
Can you please just quickly respond to the digest or the toyota-mods
list, or my address (abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu) saying whether you have
had your header:
1) Ceramic or JetHot Coated
2) Wrapped with tape
or
3) Just running it without any coating or tape (right out of the box).
All I'm asking for is a quick "Yes, I run mine coated by JetHot", or
"Yes I wrapped mine with tape", or "No, I just run mine without any coating
or tape". And, just tell me if you felt a difference with it, Judging by
the seat of your pants. That's all I ask.
My reason for asking this is to see whether coating the header or
wrapping it really makes a noticeable difference in seat of the pants
acceleration feel.
I've already had one response from Dave Aucott who says that he had
his JetHot Coated and that he feels a difference over stock. On the other
hand, Christopher T. Berchin says he didn't feel much difference, but he has
not had his header coated or wrapped. Is it possible that Dave's cooler
underhood temperatures are making the difference? (aside from the fact that
Dave's done a few other mods as well).
Thanks guys,
Aly
'85 MR2
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 19:30:16 EDT
From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: buying a MK1 MR2
I thought I'd throw my personal opinion on this subject out there. I own
a 1988 MR2 that I purchased somewhat uninformed. In fact, I bought it a
great deal uninformed. Had I to do it over again, I would still have bought
my car (it only had 27,000 miles on it - it has 38,000 now and is rust-free),
but I would recommend getting a 1986 or a 1985, in that order. In 1987,
Toyota completely changed the rear suspension geometry - the attachment points
for the rear anti-sway bar were eliminated from the shock carriers, and the
suspension bits are totally different from the 1985 and 1986 models. (I'm
writing this from a United States point of view - we didn't get any MR2's
prior to the 1985 models.) Toyota also apparently stiffened the front
springs on the car. All of this (from what I understand) was done as
planning for when the superchaged car came out. The N/A cars have 56% of
the weight in the rear, the S/C cars have 58%. Thus, they seem to have
tried to reduce the car's neutrality/oversteer. My 1988, as sold by Toyota,
was a horrible understeering pig. As Dave A. said, getting the Addco bars
for my car has transformed it, but the installation in the rear is not nearly
as clean as it would be on a 1985-86 car.
On the upside, Toyota started
producing stripped cars in 1987 - no power accessories at all. This is
the car I have - it is considerably lighter than Dave A.'s silver 1986 car
(loaded). But these stripper cars had much cheaper (but lighter) seats
(comfortable, but nowhere near as good as the multi-adjustable seats), a
wimpy steering wheel with no wrapping, no rear center console, and cheap
carpeting. They also didn't have the side skirts or rear wings (unless
the person ordered these as an option). Many had steel wheels instead of
alloys (ugly!). I ended up buying a loaded 1987 car that was the same
color as mine and pirating the seats, wheels, rear console/carpeting, side
skirts, mud flaps, rear wing, front trunk trim, and steering wheel for
my low-mile car. Yes, I added some weight, but my personal enjoyment of
the vehilce has increased a great deal. Seeing as the entire upgrade only
cost me $300, I figure it was money well-spent.
Also note that the 1987 marks the minor facelift that Toyota gave the car.
I like the new front end, I strongly dislike the new rear lamps. Also, this
is when Toyota moved the air intake from under the hood the right side of the
car. They succeeded in getting outside air into the engine, but the rear
trunk is now much smaller than on the previous cars (the air filter and all
its plumbing is back there), and the route the air takes is about 9 feet
(~3 m) long - this doesn't help throttle response one bit.
The reason I got into all of that was because the 1986 cars tend to be
loaded - all the power goodies (or baddies, depending on if you race), high-
grade seats and carpeting, side skirts, etc. My recommendation is to find
a clean 1986 model first (make sure you add the 1986 rear sway bar to the
car, or get a set of Suspension Technique bars for it), and if you can't
find that, go for a 1985. If you stumble across a low-mileage 1987-89 for
a good price, go for it. Just realize that it will take some work to make
it as good as the 1986 models. Lastly, a clean supercharged car would be
a good buy - they were 1988-89, but they aren't very common, and you'd be
starting with more horsepower and a lot more torque than I'm ever going to
have in mild street trim.
I apologize for the length of this post, but I found out the hard way that
I bought the wrong MR2 and I don't want to see anyone make the same mistake
if I can help it. I don't regret my choice of car, but it did take $200
for sway bars, $300 (and the 'fun' of selling my 1987 car) for the seats,
etc., and over a year's time and research to make the car acceptable to me.
Let me know what you finally get!
Christopher T. Berchin
1988 MR2 - finally happy with the chassis!
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
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Date: Thu, 16 May 96 02:05:35 UT
From: "William Hall"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 91 brakes & Shifter
I have seen a parts listing to upgrade a 91T MR2 brakes to 93 specs, though I
am not sure of the benefit/cost of this upgrade. The same seems to apply to
the 91 shifter. Could some of the MR2 gurus please give a lowly neophyte some
info on this subject?
Note for whoever cares: I just ordered a K&N filtercharger Injection kit, a
turbo boost controller (Mr.2PP version), Redline MTL, a stainless steel
"straight pipe" that bolts to the cat (no muffler), and a set of toyota shop
manuals. I can hardly wait for the brown truck to arrive!
I live in a state that has no auto inspection (just did away with it this past
summer in SC) so.... what do you guys think of illegally removing or
roto-rooting the last cat? Though I guess I should do my part to keep our air
clean.
William Hall
work: Charlotte, NC will@portanc.infoave.net
home: Rock Hill, SC wh_hall@msn.com
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: buying a MK1 MR2 or Mitsu
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 22:46:40 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
Mr. Christopher T. Berchin wrote:
>
> I apologize for the length of this post, but I found out the hard way that
> I bought the wrong MR2 and I don't want to see anyone make the same mistake
> if I can help it. I don't regret my choice of car, but it did take $200
> for sway bars, $300 (and the 'fun' of selling my 1987 car) for the seats,
> etc., and over a year's time and research to make the car acceptable to me.
>
Please pardon my non-toyota/non-mr2 question, but does anyone have any info
on what the best year for a Mitsubishi Starion/Chrysler Conquest was? Also,
any info on this car in general would be appreciated. If I buy one, I don't
want to make a mistake like the one above. I was lucky with the MR2, and
would like to make as good a choice if I buy a Conquest. If anyone has this
car, or shares an interest in it, that would be even better. I can't seem
to find an internet listing for it.
Please email me direct since this is not a toyota related question.
Thanks :)
Aly
'85 MR2
Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
PS, Please note that I would never sell my MR2 if I bought a Conquest, nor
am I suggesting in the least that the Conquest is as cool a car as the MR2.
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:57:11 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: '91T MR2 K&N FIPK install - Help!
I'm tring to install the '91T MR2 K&N FIPK - thanks MR2 Performance Parts.
But I've hit one snag. The directions as a whole are very good, but it is
saying one thing that has me confused. I was able to install the horizontal
support - the one that goes down, to one of the holes that the original
lower air-filter box attaches to. But the vertical support - the one that
attaches to the tab that the engine mini-cover attaches to - is being
difficult. The instructions reference a 'stock part' bracket, L-shaped,
that is supposed to already be on the turbo-side of the AFM. But there
isn't one! I even looked in the Genuine Toyota manual, checking all of the
pictures, and even the Toyota manual *doesn't* show this L-shaped bracket.
Am I missing something here? The K&N instructions says it's there, but the
Toyota manual's pictures says it isn't!
The unit is 'relatively' stable right now, but I sure would like to support
it on 3-dimensions. It is supported from the passenger side (the rubber
tube to the turbo), and the bottom (to the original air-box lower-support).
But I'd like to get the front-support) to the tab there, so that it is
*very* stable.
Hopefully this made sense to someone, who has also gone through this
install. Everything seemed to go in ok, but that 'stock bracket' that is
referenced in the 'exploded view' on the last page of the instructions
*just* *isn't* *there*!
Help! Am I nuts?
Thanks to anyone who can help.
Steve B.
bagdon@rust.net
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS)
-----------
'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50).
'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 2X CD-ROM burner - Feel The Burn
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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 23:20:43 -0700
To: aly abulkheir ,
From: Aric Shen
Subject: Re: Are your headers coated, or not?
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
At 07:25 PM 5/15/96 -0400, aly abulkheir wrote:
>TO EVERYONE RUNNING A TRD HEADER ON A MK1 MR2 ('85-'89) OR OTHER 4AGE CAR:
>
>1) Ceramic or JetHot Coated
>
>2) Wrapped with tape
>
>or
>3) Just running it without any coating or tape (right out of the box).
Just running it without any coating or tape.. I thought it made a pretty big
difference, espcially in 5th gear on the freeway..
% Aric Shen %
% Speedline Racing Concepts %
% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 %
% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com %
% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted %
& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic %
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 16:55:09 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: XXHeadersXX (fwd)
This one never made it to the list - please try not to include the
keyword xxsubscribexx or xxunsubscribexx in the first few lines of
messages :)
Also, please use some discretion when posting your opinions (esp with
regard to headers...) If you do feel that some-one was incorrect then by
all means post but then leave it at that - one posting is usually enough
to understand which way we sway and to get a broad range of views is good
*but* try not to chew any-ones head off in the process - we all have
various types of experience with toyotas and I am sure each of us can
contribute in our own way...without causing tension and potential loss of
knowledgeable people.
Now back to your regularly scheduled mods....
Paul.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: XXHeadersXX
If I see one more mail message with the title 'Headers' I'mm gonna
unsubscribe!!!! Just kidding, but seriously. As Gerald said in his last
post, all cars are built up with different mods in different order for
different reasons. I personally KNOW for a fact that all cars are not
created equal. Two of my non-believer friends (in Toyota that is) have
*identical* 92 Camaro Z-28's with the exact same options, including
the 350 TPI engine. We went to the track with them stock and ran them
about 10 times each. Car 'A' we'll call it ran consistent 14.1? while
car 'B' ran consistent 14.4?. What does this mean? Every once in a
while, you get a car that's just put together the right way. Even from
an automated assembly line! Both cars bought the same headers and
installed them exactly the same way (I did it so I know) (along with
exhaust and K&N ram air filter) and we returned to the track. The results
were proof positive that there are too many factors to have a set of rules
set in stone. Car 'A' ran consistent 13.9? and Car 'B' ran consistent 14.0?'s
Now I know that this is just drag racing, but you can see the point I'm getting
at. TOO MANY VARIABLES! So stop arguing! Just my $0.02.
Later,
Larry S.
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 17:00:07 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Headers
Gerald San August wrote -
>again.... I can't speak about cars built for autocrossing.
>But so far, everyone has been saying "it sure feels
>like .2 of a second" or "I get a better lap time with the
>stock header" and even "mildy built engines getting
>blown away by stockers 'in the straights". Everyone is
>talking about road racing, which also involves
>suspension and driving techniques.
>
True, but if the only thing that has been changed is the exhaust or
flywheel, then that is a fair test. If you change two or more things at a
time, then it is not. A lap time is a lap time ...... (And going around in
circles requires considerably more skill that driving in a straight line.)
Remember the best saying in motor racing - "The bullshit stops when the flag
drops!"
>In my personal opinion, drag racing is the best way to
>gauge any increase in horsepower. Since most driving is
>with the throttle wide open near redline, back to back
>results can be achieved.
>
Yep, fair enough.
>I also read an opinion
(that was me, and it wasn't an opinion, they are facts)
>about Indy cars
(It was Formula One, _not_ Indy - pay attention!),
>Top Fuel dragsters, then rotary engines.
>
I thought I'd give some real life examples for credibility. Excuse me for
introducing the real world into the thread.
>Sorry, I don't rev to 12000, burn nitromethane, or
>have two triangles spinning in my engine.
>
A little bit of general knowledge never hurt anyone ..... (and FWIW the F1
cars are up around 17,000 rpm!)
FWIW, one of the people I turn to for everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know
about 4AGE's has raced them for a number of years with great success. (He is
also an ex-1960's Formula One engineer) His car holds the speed record at
Australia's most famous touring car circuit - Bathurst. His car was clocked
at 260 kph, and that was with a standard exhaust manifold and Weber carburetors.
At times he has used thin-wall tube extractors, but the only reason for that
was to save weight - no extra power was obtained.
In any case, he is missing the point (as usual) - We all agree that a well
designed set of extractors WILL increase power, but at the expense of power
in other areas of the rev range, but -
The bottom line is - if you can't stop yourself from spending money on the
car, then put it into something that you KNOW will be of benefit - We KNOW
that extractors increase power, but usually at the expense of driveability,
and we KNOW that a light flywheel gives excellent results at all points.
For God's sake, how could it be more simple??
Remember - the original question was something along the lines of whether or
not extractors were worth getting for road use - not specifically for drag
racing or autocross or whatever. That question has been quite adequately
answered - extractors are _not_ needed or desired for road use.
The B Man.
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Date: 16 May 96 07:17:20 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: "Steve B."
Cc: Geoff ,
Subject: Blow Off Valve
Hi all,
What would be the symptoms that my blow off valve has gone bad?
Can I test it? What would happen if I disconnected it? Is it possible?
Just wondering.
Later,
Larry S
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:58:27 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Header coating
Aly wrote:
> I've already had one response from Dave Aucott who says that he had
> his JetHot Coated and that he feels a difference over stock. On the other
Somewhere the signals got crossed on this one! My header is out-of-the-box
uncoated metal. I don't recall ever saying it was coated...
BTW, when I weighed the parts, the header weighs the same as the stock
manifold, so the savings you have is the weight of the flex pipe. Not enough
to justify $265 unless you are really scraping for weight savings...
..............
Dave A.
1986 MR2
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:45:52 EDT
From: "Steve Bagdon USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods
name: Steve Bagdon
location: Detroit, MI (yes, *that* Detroit)
model: '91 MR2 Turbo
engine: 3S-GTE (anybody have a Lexus SC-400 V8 lying around?)
mods: K&N FIPK Kit (via MR2 Performance Products)
Mechanical boost controller (as soon as the wheels/tires sell)
Cat-back straight pipe (anybody interested in a right 1/4 panel?)
e-mail: bagdon@rust.net (h), USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
Charter-member - Ford World Headquarters MR2 Driving Club:)
Regards,
Steve Bagdon
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Date: 16 May 96 09:00:35 EDT
From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com>
To: Dave Abitol
Cc: "Steve B." ,
Subject: Braking Noise
Last night I heard a noise that didn't exactly make me feel comfortable
about driving my car. This could have been going on for a while, because
last night was the first night in a while that I didn't have the radio blaring.
:-)
As I was braking moderately, I heard a thumping noise. No Idea what it was
but it sounded almost like there was a bump/gouge in the rotor. It was
almost 12 o'clock so I didn't pop the wheel off. I'll check it tonight. I was
just wondering if anyone out there had a similar problem.
Later
Larry S
91 MR2 T
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 06:03:45 -0700
From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch )
Subject: used MR-2
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>Toyota completely changed the rear suspension geometry - the
attachment points
>for the rear anti-sway bar were eliminated from the shock carriers,
and the
>suspension bits are totally different from the 1985 and 1986 models.
Actually this happed on '88 models.. my '87 and the one I was getting
parts off of in the junk yard both have the sway bar mounts.
(I'm
>writing this from a United States point of view - we didn't get any
MR2's
>prior to the 1985 models.) Toyota also apparently stiffened the front
>springs on the car. All of this (from what I understand) was done as
>planning for when the superchaged car came out. The N/A cars have 56%
of
>the weight in the rear, the S/C cars have 58%. Thus, they seem to
have
>tried to reduce the car's neutrality/oversteer.
This was not an issue to reduce oversteer... it's just that the S/C
block and the S/C parts added weight to the rear of the car.
My 1988, as sold by Toyota,
>was a horrible understeering pig. As Dave A. said, getting the Addco
bars
>for my car has transformed it, but the installation in the rear is not
nearly
>as clean as it would be on a 1985-86 car.
Yea my stock did have way too much understeer. The installation parts
that come from Suspension Tech. for the rear is fairly well made. Also
I now have te brackets to weld on the sway bar connection points to
strut housings that don't have them.
>
>On the upside, Toyota started
>producing stripped cars in 1987 - no power accessories at all. This
is
>the car I have - it is considerably lighter than Dave A.'s silver 1986
car
>(loaded). But these stripper cars had much cheaper (but lighter)
seats
>(comfortable, but nowhere near as good as the multi-adjustable seats),
a
>wimpy steering wheel with no wrapping, no rear center console, and
cheap
>carpeting. They also didn't have the side skirts or rear wings
(unless
>the person ordered these as an option). Many had steel wheels instead
of
>alloys (ugly!).
My car started as a "stripper" and yes they are onsiderably lighter.
>If you stumble across a low-mileage 1987-89 for
>a good price, go for it. Just realize that it will take some work to
make it as good as 1986 models.
Also in '87 Toyota started using the S/C block and crank in the N/A
cars. So if engine mods are your interest get an '87 or newer.
>Lastly, a clean supercharged car would be
>a good buy - they were 1988-89, but they aren't very common, and you'd
be
>starting with more horsepower and a lot more torque than I'm ever
going to
>have in mild street trim.
>
>Christopher T. Berchin
John Welch
'86 4-Runner
'87 MR-2 Turbo
'78 Triumph Spitfire
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Date: Thu, 16 May 96 08:26:12 EST
From: "Changming Tony Chung"
To: Toyota-1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota engine rebuild shop
Hi guys:
I own Mark III 86 1/2 Supra 7MGE motor. It is burning motor oil.
I believe I need to rebore my engine block, and replace all the
pistons' rings with oversize rings. I live in Queens, NYC. I looking
for good a mechine shop, engine rebuild shop, or an experience toyota
mechanic. I have the necessary equipments to remove my engine.
-Tony Chung
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:35:43 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: Bill Sherwood
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers (final one I hope)
> In any case, you are missing the point (as usual) - We all agree that a well
> designed set of extractors WILL increase power, but perhaps at the expense
> of power in other areas of the rev range, but -
> The bottom line is - if you can't stop yourself from spending money on the
> car, then put it into something that you KNOW will be of benefit - We KNOW
> that extractors increase power, but perhaps at the expense of drivability,
> and we KNOW that a light flywheel gives excellent results at all points.
> For God's sake, how could it be more simple??
>
> The B Man.
>
fact: lightened flywheels DO work.... <--- proven
fact: installing headers DO improve acceleration and throttle response.. <--- proven
quote " perhaps at the expense of driveability" <---- perhaps? oh well. I guess you didn't get the previous
posts from other 4AGE owners claiming smoother throttle response.
If someone wants more top end power for the drags... then so be it. If someone wants to race around the track
with a stock motor, so be it. But here's the point you're missing. MAYBE WHAT YOU WANT, SOMEONE ELSE DOESN'T
WANT. MAYBE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU, DOESN'T WORK FOR ANOTHER. Really simple, isn't it. So stop saying people are
wasting their money, because they're not.
what more is there to say.... spend money, get results WHERE and HOW you want them....
CASE CLOSED.
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
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From: "Dysart, Glenn B."
To: "MR2 Digest (Normal)" ,
Subject: Calipers & Rotors
Date: Thu, 16 May 96 07:41:00 PDT
After seeing all the posts about coating headers on the Mods group. Has
anyone thought about painting/coating their brake calipers/hub part of the
rotors on the 93-95 MR2? I 'm sure you have seen the several models of
Porsches with painted calipers that are color coated to the car. They sure
look ugly in that gray color on the MR2 with the 5 spoke wheels exposing
them. And the hub part of the brake rotors seem to rust even with whatever
the factory coating is. And my car is garage kept and not driven in the
rain or snow! Just a thought.
Glenn Dysart
dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil
93 MR2 turbo
87 Corolla SR5
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Re: Header coating
To: daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (G. D. Aucott)
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 10:48:58 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>
> Aly wrote:
>
> > I've already had one response from Dave Aucott who says that he had
> > his JetHot Coated and that he feels a difference over stock. On the other
>
> Somewhere the signals got crossed on this one! My header is out-of-the-box
> uncoated metal. I don't recall ever saying it was coated...
>
> BTW, when I weighed the parts, the header weighs the same as the stock
> manifold, so the savings you have is the weight of the flex pipe. Not enough
> to justify $265 unless you are really scraping for weight savings...
>
> ..............
> Dave A.
> 1986 MR2
>
Sorry, Dave. I thought I remembered reading that yours was coated. It did
come chrome plated though, right?
Aly
'85 MR2
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 11:06:09 EDT
From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: buying a MK1 MR2
I thought of a couple things. The 1987 and 1988 MR2's also differ from
each other in the engine area. My 1987 had the O2 sensor and EGR attachment
in the header in that same locations as the 1985 and 1986 models. However,
my 1988 had both of these relocated - thus, installing a TRD/Doug Thorley/
whoever-I'm-so-tired-of-header-discussion header can be done, but I had
to do some serious "finessing" to get it to work. The TRD header, as sold,
will bolt right up to a 1987 or order MR2. (I had to increase the length
of the wire on my O2 sensor and bend the hell out of my EGR tube to make
mine work.) I had also forgotten to include the internal changes to the
4AGE, but I believe those were covered a few months back.
Lastly, in regards to the reply to my epic post regarding the rear suspension
changes - yes, the supercharged car has more weight in the back, and thus
by nature will oversteer more. Anyone who's driven an old 911 can vouch for
the effects of more rear weight bias. :)
Christopher T. Berchin
1988 MR2
Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:10:06 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin
To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: From Restrictor to Bleeder
Lawrence M. Saccone Jr. wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> I have decided to install my TVVC in the cockpit as opposed to in the
> engine bay due to unreliable / unpredictable operation. Until yesterday
> I had the TVVC hooked up as a restrictor to the actuator. I have heard
> that setting it up as a bleeder to the atmos is better both operationally
> and for installing. I don't like to drill through the fire wall *ever* so one
> hole is better than two. I have placed a T connector inline in the hose
> from the compressor housing to the actuator. The other hose goes to
> the input side of the TVVC. After doing this, I am not able to get boost
> higher than stock!!! Am I leaving something out?? ARGH!! Being the
> boost junkie that I am (love anything over and above 15 psi) I'm goin
> kwazzy! Any hints / help is greatly appreciated (as usual)
> Larry S
make sure there aren't any kinks of any kind. Also, what size hose are you using? You might not have enough
air flow through the TVVC actuator hoses to actually bleed excess boost. The pressure is still going to the
wastegate actuator. Try using a larger hose than you previously used. Also, the HKS VBC unit uses an orifice
installed at the pressure source (ie - turbo compressor). It restricts some of the airflow so that the bleed
capacity of the bleeder valve is balanced. One downfall is, boost creep will increase.
Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.
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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 12:08:57 -0400
To: 103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: geoff@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, geraldsa@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: From Restrictor to Bleeder
.....whatever.
Does anyone speak English?
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'"
From: Tony York
Subject: Re: Calipers & Rotors
Date: Thu, 16 May 96 12:59:21 PDT
>After seeing all the posts about coating headers on the Mods group. =
Has
>anyone thought about painting/coating their brake calipers/hub part of =
the
>rotors on the 93-95 MR2? I 'm sure you have seen the several models =
of
>Porsches with painted calipers that are color coated to the car. They =
sure
>look ugly in that gray color on the MR2 with the 5 spoke wheels exposing=
>them. And the hub part of the brake rotors seem to rust even with whate=
ver
>the factory coating is. And my car is garage kept and not driven in =
the
>rain or snow! Just a thought.
>Glenn Dysart
>dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil
>93 MR2 turbo
>87 Corolla SR5
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
I have red calipers on my Corolla GTS. They were sprayed with high temper=
ature
paint, the spray that I purchased gave a matt finnish which is a shame =
but you
can buy coloured calipers that have a gloss finnish and look better, i've=
seen
them about but have yet to find out who supplies them.
As for the rotors I did the same as the calipers.
If you just wish them to be coloured just spray them with a high temperat=
ure
spray paint, they do look a lot better than standard. You can probably =
get hold
of some high temperature gloss spray paint but I haven't found any.
Hope this is helpful
Tony York
1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS
Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour: White
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles: 105000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 15:49:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rees
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MK1 Headers (final one I hope)
On Thu, 16 May 1996, Gerald San Agustin wrote:
> fact: lightened flywheels DO work.... <--- proven
>
> fact: installing headers DO improve acceleration and throttle response.. <--- proven
>
> quote " perhaps at the expense of driveability" <---- perhaps? oh well. I guess you didn't get the previous
> posts from other 4AGE owners claiming smoother throttle response.
>
> If someone wants more top end power for the drags... then so be it. If someone wants to race around the track
> with a stock motor, so be it. But here's the point you're missing. MAYBE WHAT YOU WANT, SOMEONE ELSE DOESN'T
> WANT. MAYBE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU, DOESN'T WORK FOR ANOTHER. Really simple, isn't it. So stop saying people are
> wasting their money, because they're not.
>
> what more is there to say.... spend money, get results WHERE and HOW you want them....
>
> CASE CLOSED.
I can't wait to get my DT Headers... Getting a set for my '81 Celica 22R
in June!
Dave
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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'"
From: Tony York
Subject: Re: Calipers & Rotors
Date: Thu, 16 May 96 15:56:42 PDT
I sprayed all the vents on the front disks; (all the rusty bits
really).
No you won't have much luck with spraying the braking area of the
rotor.
Tony York
1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS
Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour: White
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles: 105000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 16:31:21 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: David Rees
Subject: Vibration at 4000 rpm
Hi, wondering if anyone out there has experienced this problem.
I've got a 1981 Celica GT with the 22R engine. At engine speeds
around 4000 rpm, there's an annoying buzzing coming from my gear
shift lever. If I rev to 4300-4500 rpm it disappears and actually
runs very smooth, albeit loudly ;) . Below 4000 rpm it quiet, no
annoying resonances. Could it be worn engine/transmission mounts?
Something else imbalanced? Thanks in advance for the advise...
David
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From: ml36@cornell.edu
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 19:33:33 -0400 (EDT)
To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>
Cc: Dave Abitol ,
Subject: Re: Braking Noise
On 16 May 1996, Lawrence M. Saccone Jr. wrote:
> Last night I heard a noise that didn't exactly make me feel comfortable
> about driving my car. This could have been going on for a while, because
> last night was the first night in a while that I didn't have the radio blaring.
> :-)
> As I was braking moderately, I heard a thumping noise. No Idea what it was
> but it sounded almost like there was a bump/gouge in the rotor. It was
> almost 12 o'clock so I didn't pop the wheel off. I'll check it tonight. I was
> just wondering if anyone out there had a similar problem.
One of the rotors on my corolla recently warped and makes a noise like
you describe. It also pulses the brake pedal like some kind of ABS
system gone mad.. The pedal pulsing is the most noticeable, followed by
the steering wheel shimmy and the noise. It occurs mostly during
moderate braking from speeds above 45 mph or so. Mine were too thin to
be turned down any further, so I've got a set of hardened rotors from
Porterfield on the way...
hope this helps diagnose your problem.
-Mike Leary
Ithaca NY
87 Corolla GTS
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From: aly abulkheir
Subject: Brake Rotors
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:44:39 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu
Hi All,
Has anyone had experience with rotors warping faster after they've
been cut, as compared to when they are new? My rotors are warped on my MR2
and these rotors have never been cut (I put them on new last year).
I just have a feeling that cut rotors will warp faster than new ones
since there's less material for the heat to dissipate in. Any comments on
this?
Is it worth the money to cut rotors, or should I just buy new ones?
Thanks :)
Aly
'85 MR2
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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Date: Fri, 17 May 96 02:24:22 UT
From: "Don Dressel" <1965GTO@msn.com>
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: 1965gto@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Looking for 7MGE Engine Parts
Maybe someone can tell me where I can locate a "good" used crankshaft or
complete shortblock for my 87 Supra 7MGE Automatic. I've been searching the
last month trying to locate either a reconditioned crankshaft or used
crankshaft that needed polishing. I'm located in the Chicago area and have
many feelers out, but no one has found a crankshaft that was reasonably
priced: $75-175.00 is the going rate here. Let me know if anyone has any
leads.
Also, if anyone has any good tips on rebuilding this motor, please write.
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:52:09 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford)
Subject: Corolla GTS (AE86) rear in 78 Corolla
I'm planning to put a Corolla GTS (AE86, Sprinter) rear end (entire thing,
with brake assembly) in my 78 Corolla TE31.
Any advice, comments, or problems foreseen? Has anyone done this transplant?
I'm figuring to put in the GTS master cylinder and power booster. I'm
wondering if I will need a proportioning valve. But then, the master
cylinder is set up for 4-wheel discs, and it may not be needed.
Another question: LSD is an option which I should be able to get for more
$$. Those using it, it is worth it for street driving? I'm leaning in
favor. I would like to hear your opinion.
Thank you.
Monte
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:20:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: QUI HONG
To: Toyota MODS ,
Subject: MK1, Ringing noise
Hi all,
I just bought my 88 MR2 a month ago. Well, there is this ringing noise
(enggggggggg constantly) that seems to come from under my shift knob (center
console). It does change pitch at all. Well, I decided to take off the
center console and have a look the other day. What I found was that it
seemed to come from the cover that fits over the fuel tank (Mk1 MR2's
fuel tank is right under center console). Well, what is the source, how
can i fix it and how much? Beside it being annoying it doesn't seem to
effect anything else! Someone suggested that it was the fuel pump cause
the noise, can this be and why if so? Well any help would be appreciated.
Also I was wondering has anyone tried the All-Data CD-Rom repair manual?
It only cost $29 or so compared to Toyota's which is $60.
Thanks.
P.S.-- Sorry about bringing up the question about the headers. Didn't mean
to get everyone excited. I just wanted to know should I wrap them or
not!!!
Quihong email: quihong@orion.sfsu.edu
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 21:56:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Dang
To: Don Dressel <1965GTO@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Looking for 7MGE Engine Parts
Hi Don,
On Fri, 17 May 1996, Don Dressel wrote:
> Maybe someone can tell me where I can locate a "good" used crankshaft or
> complete shortblock for my 87 Supra 7MGE Automatic. I've been searching the
>
Try connecting to Toyota Auto Parts (T.A.P.) at
http://www.cwo.com/~tap/index.html
where you should be able to get their phone number. The last time I
checked this place, about a month back, their site was still under
construction.
To whoever is in charge of maintaing the FAQ, could you update this entry.
Goodluck,
Phil
ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu
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Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 08:13:45 +0200
To: QUI HONG
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: Re: MK1, Ringing noise
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>Also I was wondering has anyone tried the All-Data CD-Rom repair manual?
>It only cost $29 or so compared to Toyota's which is $60.
>Thanks.
>
>P.S.-- Sorry about bringing up the question about the headers. Didn't mean
>to get everyone excited. I just wanted to know should I wrap them or
>not!!!
>
>Quihong email: quihong@orion.sfsu.edu
>
Re the all-data CD rom Please let me know also if anyone has ever received
anything from this company....I start to believe that they only advertise
but never deliver......
Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D.
ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS
Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr
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Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 13:42:09 +0200
To: cal@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Cal Smith)
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: Re: SuperCoolers
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>Maybe we can agree on this. Now, Dr. Chryssos...can we engineer and build
it...?
>
>Cal
Why not Cal???
We can talk about it for a while and who knows.....
I am thinking of an easy system first, lets say we put a pair of T joints at
the existing evaporator and connect via two electrically operated 2way
valves either the standard evaporator or one mounted at the intercooler
location. This will be a special intercooler with an incorporated freon
expansion unit, after second thought, we can leave the stock intercooler in
place for pre-cooling and attach the "special one" where the air tube no.2
is (the one leading from the intercooler to the throttle). We convert the
stock alu tube to a freon expansion unit and we add another thermostat there
as well. So with the flick of a switch we divert the stock airconditioning
to provide additional cooling to the air out of the intercooler and into the
plenum.
The T's and the thermostat is no problem.
But we have to design the "new tube" with some restrictions in size and some
specifications in air flow and temp differences. Tricky but not impossible.
Lets all think about it................
Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D.
ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS
Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr
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Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:02:42 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott"
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Rebuilt Clutches
This may be old hat to some of you, but it's new to me so I thought I'd
share it... I just located a clutch rebuilder here in the Detroit area
(actually, there are three of them in the yellow pages) that will rebuild
my MKI clutch -- surface, spring -- and set it up to whatever pressure I
want!!
I was thoroughly frustrated with HKS' price of $225 for a 1300lb pressure
plate, and these guys will do it for $40!!!! Yee ha! They also will
match the plate to the disk, give varying disk thicknessess for whatever
you want... totally up to me! There is a max they can go with the spring,
and it's somewhere around 1300, but this is great for my wallet.
BTW, I have one of these rebuilt jobs in my MR2 right now, and it is
great! I'm having the clutch rebuilt for my green car now... just dropped
it off and I'll have it by lunch. What a deal...
:):):)
Oh, and in case you're wondering, he checked a stock plate for me and it's
about 850 lb.
..............
Dave A.
1986 MR2
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From: "Dysart, Glenn B."
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: RE: Corolla GTS (AE86) rear in 78 Corolla
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 06:56:00 PDT
Just curious how are you going to account for mounting the springs? Your 78
model has leaf springs, and the AE86 has coils.
Glenn
----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: toyota-mods
Subject: Corolla GTS (AE86) rear in 78 Corolla
Date: Thursday, May 16, 1996 8:52PM
I'm planning to put a Corolla GTS (AE86, Sprinter) rear end (entire thing,
with brake assembly) in my 78 Corolla TE31.
Any advice, comments, or problems foreseen? Has anyone done this
transplant?
I'm figuring to put in the GTS master cylinder and power booster. I'm
wondering if I will need a proportioning valve. But then, the master
cylinder is set up for 4-wheel discs, and it may not be needed.
Another question: LSD is an option which I should be able to get for more
$$. Those using it, it is worth it for street driving? I'm leaning in
favor. I would like to hear your opinion.
Thank you.
Monte
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From: "Dysart, Glenn B."
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: RE: Brake Rotors
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 07:05:00 PDT
Aly, ever thought of using cross-drilled rotors? I friend of mine just
replaced his rotors on his Honda accord with Brembo cross-drilled because
the factory ones we're warped at 53K miles. He figured if he put factory
one back on they might warp again. The factory rotors we're $104, while
cheapo ones we're about $57 and the cross-drilled we're $70. He is real
happy with their stopping ability. If you would like the names and numbers
of people who sell them either look in the back of one the big car mags
(C&D, R&T, etc.) or drop me an e-mail.
Glenn Dysart
dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil
93 MR2 turbo
87 Corolla SR5
----------
From: toyota-mods-owner
To: toyota-mods
Cc: mr2-digest
Subject: Brake Rotors
Date: Thursday, May 16, 1996 8:44PM
Hi All,
Has anyone had experience with rotors warping faster after they've
been cut, as compared to when they are new? My rotors are warped on my MR2
and these rotors have never been cut (I put them on new last year).
I just have a feeling that cut rotors will warp faster than new ones
since there's less material for the heat to dissipate in. Any comments on
this?
Is it worth the money to cut rotors, or should I just buy new ones?
Thanks :)
Aly
'85 MR2
abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
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From: reyb@wildcat.sandiegoca.ncr.com
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutches
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods)
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 07:39:50 -0700 (PDT)
>
> I was thoroughly frustrated with HKS' price of $225 for
> a 1300lb pressure plate, and these guys will do it for
> $40!!!! Yee ha!
>
I would think that the $225 price includes other items
beside the pressure plate, right? At any rate, $40
seems like a great deal for a pressure plate that
has 1300lbs of clamping power.
-Rey-
========================================================
Rey Berin Phone: (619) 485-3285
NCR Corporation Fax: (619) 485-3010
17095 Via Del Campo
San Diego, CA 92127 Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM
========================================================
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From: "Dysart, Glenn B."
To: Toyota Mods
Subject: Re: Looking for 7MGE Engine Parts
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 07:55:00 PDT
Also check with these guys, they sell used Toyota Parts (800) 765-7100
Glenn
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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'"
From: Tony York
Subject: Re: Brake Rotors
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 07:59:22 PDT
>Hi All,
> Has anyone had experience with rotors warping faster after they've
>been cut, as compared to when they are new? My rotors are warped on my MR2
>and these rotors have never been cut (I put them on new last year).
> I just have a feeling that cut rotors will warp faster than new ones
>since there's less material for the heat to dissipate in. Any comments on
>this?
> Is it worth the money to cut rotors, or should I just buy new ones?
> Thanks :)
> Aly
> '85 MR2
> abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu
==================================================
I am still having problems with my brakes juddering. The trouble is it doesn't
always judder, it can brake perfectly smoothly.
When I first encountered this problem I changed the rotors for some very
expensive standard Toyota ones. The problem seemed to go away for a while but
within a few weeks had come back again.
I really don't know what it could be. Someone did suggest it could be a warped
hub or that the new disks have warped as well.
Anyone any other ideas ???
thanks
Tony York
1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS
Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour: White
Engine: 4A-GE
Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles: 105000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:29:30 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Jason McDonald
Subject: me/mine/mods
Name : Jason McDonald
Location : Los Angeles, CA
Model : 1987 MR-2 N/A T-Top
Engine : 4-AGE Naturally Aspirated
Mods : Motor: 82mm forged pistons C/R 9.5:1
290 deg. Cams
HKS Camshaft Pulleys
TRD Crap header
Dual 45DCOE Webers
Welded, Milled, Ported Head
Electromotive HPV1 Direct-Fire, crank triggered ignition
Nitrous Oxide
Suspension:
Koni Yellow Adjustables
Suspension Techniques Springs and Swaybars
email : jasonm@ucla.edu
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Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:54:29 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Jason McDonald
Subject: Brett Fraser's GT4 wish-list
>Does anybody know if the 4AGZE? will fit in a Corolla GTS RWD? Same trans, etc?
>I was whining to Chris a while ago about the lack of low end, and that would be
>one way to get lots... (I'm watching for an SC MR2, very scarce, but lots of
>NAs for sale)
Well, in Japan, these cars came supercharged I believe, so I imagine you
should have no problem doing it. Although, if you are planning on
re-working the engine with stronger parts anyway, consider just using the
4AGE instead, and adding your supercharger to that. There isn't much
difference between the motors. The Z motor is just a little beefier in the
rods and piston department.
Jason McDonald
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Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:59:58 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Jason McDonald
Subject: Re: Tire pressure again
At 06:01 PM 5/13/96 -0700, you wrote:
>I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure...
>Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire
>pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi).
>I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and
>he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at
>slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher
>velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the
>mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of
>the tread. With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a
>"bouncy" feeling. This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is
>he right? This would explain the differences between what I have
>experienced and what everyone else on the list believes.
>
>Later,
>Micky
>'89 SC MR2
>
NO WAY! increasing your tire pressure that much will definitely
reduce grip. By inflating your tires that much, they will definitely bulge
in the center thereby reducing contact patch. What you are feeling is
crisper and easier turning due to the stiffer sidewall and smaller patch.
You are definitely losing grip tho, try popping your clutch and see how
easily your tires will spin. I reccomend sticking within +/- 5 psi of
stock, and only use your tire pressure to attempt to compensate for
over/under steer.
Jason McDonald
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From: daucott@e-mail.com
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 13:02:18 EDT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutch
*** Resending note of 05/17/96 11:43
>I would think that the $225 price includes other items
>beside the pressure plate, right? At any rate, $40
>seems like a great deal for a pressure plate that
>has 1300lbs of clamping power.
Actually, according to my catalog (which is a couple years old) the pressure
plate alone is $225. I don't have my catlog with me, but I believe the
"Clutch Kit" which includes the disk and throwout bearing is in the $300
range, maybe $285.
Does anyone have up to date pricing? At any rate, it's expensive.
Dave A.
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Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 13:15:32 -0400
From: Chris Myer