Toyota-Mods Postings May 1996

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S May 1996 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 01:03:53 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Finally got it! Well, I finally got my '86 from Florida! Only three weeks late (long story). Now to begin that modification from an auto to a 5-speed... BYW, anyone out there interested in the auto trans, or any of the "auto-specific" parts (like the trans computer)? I'll be pulling it all off in the next couple weeks. Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 23:25:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Phillip Dang To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List Subject: tire pressure for Celicas Hi all, For all 86-89 Celica owners (3S-xxx engine) running 205/60R14, are you going by the recommended pressure of 26 psi front and rear? You probably know that with 26 psi in the front, the tires look underinflated. I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much change? Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, 102K miles, 195/60R14 with 32 psi front/27 psi rear, suspension stock except Eibach progressive springs & Tokico struts xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 10:55:15 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: defeo@charlotte.med.nyu.edu (Anthony DeFeo) Subject: me/mine/mods hello, this is anthony DeFeo i have just joined th mods list. Here is the info asked for with some additional comments. Name: Anthony DeFeo location: Tuxedo, NY, 10987 model: 1993 MR2 normally aspirated engine: 5SFE mods: none yet as you can see i have not done any mods yet but have been on the MR2 page and am on the MR2 digest and have found this to be of great benefit for ideas. I would defenitely like to get some more power out of my vehicle. I am considering either a HKS power flow or a K+N power filter injector kit and a sport exhaust sytem but have not come across any additional power mods. I have also been considering purchasing anti sway bars from suspesion techneques, toiciko? adjustable shocks and eibach springs. I am defenitley new to all this with limeted knowledge of motor engines but am interested in learning more thanks anthony defeo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 10:08:44 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: tire pressure for Celicas >From: Phillip Dang >Hi all, > >For all 86-89 Celica owners (3S-xxx engine) running 205/60R14, are you >going by the recommended pressure of 26 psi front and rear? You probably >know that with 26 psi in the front, the tires look underinflated. > >I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much >change? > >Phil Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to 35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling characteristics (eg, understeer) Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ml36@cornell.edu Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 14:20:52 -0400 (EDT) To: Justin Simpson Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Diffs On Wed, 1 May 1996, Justin Simpson wrote: > I have the 85/86 LSD rear end in my RA 23 Celica (took some work but it > was worth it). The LSD is as tight as and churps big time when reversing. Justin- I recently swapped the standard (non-LSD) rear in my corolla GTS for an '85 LSD rear from a junkyard, and mine is definitely not very tight. Switching to Red Line 75W-90NS oil helped a bunch, but it still seems looser than I expected, and I still get lots of wheelspin on the inside rear while accelerating out of corners in Solo II. My question to you is, can you give me some kind of estimate of the tightness I should expect from the stock diff? Either something seat of the pants like how hard is it to turn one rear wheel with the other one held, or a torque number if you can measure it easily. I can feel resistance when I turn one rear wheel with the other on the ground, but its not what I would call difficult to turn. I've lost my torque wrench and haven't replaced it yet, so its hard for me to put a more quantitative number on it. Maybe 20 ft lbs? Probably less. I probably have a rebuild of that diff in my future, but I fear the cost of parts. I certainly don't want to do it if I'm not going to get much better lockup. Gotta keep the parts stock to satisfy Solo II stock class regs. thanks for the input. -Mike Leary 87 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 11:46:01 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: ml36@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Diffs Hi Mike, my diff like i said is very tight. When turning one rear wheel you can only hold the other wheel for about one revolution before the clutch pack locks up and both wheels turn, you definitely can't stop or even slow the other wheel but I've only done this by hand and don't have any torque figures on the effort required to overcome the LSD. When driving if one wheel is spinning both are spinning, when we first put the diff in we did a series of hard launches with one wheel in the dirt and one on the tar to see how much slippage the diff had and the car either bogged down or both wheels lit up. The guy I bought it off had just had it rebuilt and apparently just had the clutch pack tightened and only used stock parts so your problem should be easy to fix. Hope this was some help. Cheers ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Wed, 1 May 1996 ml36@cornell.edu wrote: > > On Wed, 1 May 1996, Justin Simpson wrote: > > > I have the 85/86 LSD rear end in my RA 23 Celica (took some work but it > > was worth it). The LSD is as tight as and churps big time when reversing. > > Justin- > I recently swapped the standard (non-LSD) rear in my corolla GTS for an > '85 LSD rear from a junkyard, and mine is definitely not very tight. > Switching to Red Line 75W-90NS oil helped a bunch, but it still seems > looser than I expected, and I still get lots of wheelspin on the inside > rear while accelerating out of corners in Solo II. My question to you > is, can you give me some kind of estimate of the tightness I should > expect from the stock diff? Either something seat of the pants like how > hard is it to turn one rear wheel with the other one held, or a torque > number if you can measure it easily. I can feel resistance when I turn > one rear wheel with the other on the ground, but its not what I would > call difficult to turn. I've lost my torque wrench and haven't replaced > it yet, so its hard for me to put a more quantitative number on it. > Maybe 20 ft lbs? Probably less. I probably have a rebuild of that diff > in my future, but I fear the cost of parts. I certainly don't want to do > it if I'm not going to get much better lockup. Gotta keep the parts > stock to satisfy Solo II stock class regs. > > thanks for the input. > > -Mike Leary > 87 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser) > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 02 May 96 07:54:11 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol , Subject: All's well that ends well... As you all know, I have had the error code 52 hampering my fun for the past week. As of last night, I finally fixed the problem. I went to Supra Dave;)'s shop and we began to poke around. It seems that the knock sensor from his 87 Supra Turbo fits directly into the MR2 MKII Turbo. All fixed, no problem. Once again I'm getting my boost fix with a smile 8^). The only problem now is that my Speedo stopped working. Hmm..... Is this really a problem?? ;-) Later Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 12:29:54 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 286 CPU's Alright, I know this falls under techno-addiction, but as I was riding around my school, I saw the chem department dumping old 286 machines into their dummpster. Immediately, the only thing I could think about was "hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display for it? (CRT is way too big and bulky, not to mention heavy.) Of course, after about twenty minutes of thinking, I finally wondered what I would do with it in the car, anyways. But it would be too cool of an idea to pass up, so I am passing it out to all of you out there... If you had a computer in your car, what would you want it to do, and what sensors would be needed to do this (I have a 1980, so no stock sensors of virtually any kind). It has ocurred to me to have water temp, oil temp, lateral G, mpg readings, accelleration, brake temp, exhaust temp, knock sensor, and whatever else I can find and write code for. That way, I would be able to monitor the averages, and know when something is going awry... All of these values would be stored and used for comparison, if needed... Kinda like the black box on an airplane... This information could possibly be displayed by way of HUD, if brought to that extent, but a normal readout would be perfectly adequate. Any ideas and or feedback would be appreciated. Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Scott Davis Cc: supras , From: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC Date: 2 May 96 13:53:29 EDT Subject: Re: 286 CPU's I've already been playing around with this idea.....The only problem using a 286 or such board is the power consumption. These beasts, especially the older ones, SUCK juice. They didn't really care how much, you were plugged into a wall outlet. But in a car, you need to be concerned about this. Plus, the old 286 motherboards were quite large...I don't know about the rest of you, but I couldn't find a good place in my MKIV to put it...then worry about heat dissipation too. Your idea for this project is excellent! As a matter of fact, I've already begun this.(I believe I posted about it on the Supra mailing list) THe board I'm using I've gotten down to 4" x 4" and that supplies everything but the sensors and uses......hmmm...don't remember the exact power requirement but it's VERY VERY low... To: supras @ vicor.com @ INTERNET cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET, Toyota @ btoy1.rochester.NY.US @ INTERNET (bcc: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC) From: ssdavis1 @ students.uiuc.edu (Scott Davis) @ INTERNET Date: 05/02/96 12:29:54 PM Subject: 286 CPU's Alright, I know this falls under techno-addiction, but as I was riding around my school, I saw the chem department dumping old 286 machines into their dummpster. Immediately, the only thing I could think about was "hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display for it? (CRT is way too big and bulky, not to mention heavy.) Of course, after about twenty minutes of thinking, I finally wondered what I would do with it in the car, anyways. But it would be too cool of an idea to pass up, so I am passing it out to all of you out there... If you had a computer in your car, what would you want it to do, and what sensors would be needed to do this (I have a 1980, so no stock sensors of virtually any kind). It has ocurred to me to have water temp, oil temp, lateral G, mpg readings, accelleration, brake temp, exhaust temp, knock sensor, and whatever else I can find and write code for. That way, I would be able to monitor the averages, and know when something is going awry... All of these values would be stored and used for comparison, if needed... Kinda like the black box on an airplane... This information could possibly be displayed by way of HUD, if brought to that extent, but a normal readout would be perfectly adequate. Any ideas and or feedback would be appreciated. Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1 <----------------------------------------------------------------------------> For info, email with subject "help" to toyota-request@btoy1.rochester.ny.us To unsubscribe, email with subject "unsubscribe" to: toyota-request@btoy1.rochester.ny.us xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 21:10:54 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 286 CPU's > > If I had a old, heavy '286 and monitor in my Supra.......I would heave it out > > the window and reduce the car's weight! The computer inside the ECU > > is more powerful than a "brain-dead" '286! > > Actually... you may be suprised, most pre-90's ECU's are real simple, > power wise.. a 10 MHz 80286 would be a lot faster.... scary but > true.. Well, it is a 12 MHz board, with a 286 chip and what looks like 4 megs of RAM. Nice deal- brand new out of the box. 30 pin SIMM's... (cheap as dirt) 16 bit operation... From a PC AT circa mid 80's or so... Good setup I think- more than enough computing power for what I could think of doing. And it was free. *grin* I would like to know how to make a good set of input/output board connections for it. Any suggestions on how too hook it up? I think I read somewhere that it has a current draw of between 2.6 and 5 amps. I don't know the voltage requirements, though... Anyone got this info? I plan to mount it in the glove with a cooling fan. As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic box and no problem. Can anyone resolve the input/output mess, though? I would like to know how to get the data into and out of the processor... Are there any preferred display types? Finally, other than the motherboard, what components do I need to make it all work? TIA Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 12:55:39 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Cyberspace.com server? Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple days! Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Cyberspace.com server? Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 17:01:50 -0400 From: Tom Julien David Rees writes: >Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error >everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple >days! I'm terribly sorry guys and gals, but the Sprint link to our internet provider (tach.net) went down two days ago. We and Tachyon have been raising, ahem, holy hell with Sprint to get us back on line, and find out why the failover circuit never picked up. I think that Tachyon was so unimpressed with Sprint's response to this catastrophe that they are working a switchover to MCI. Chris and I hope this will not result in more down time, and are also considering other options. Again, sincerest apologies for the interruption in service, and thanks for your patience. /************************************************************* Thomas J. Julien E-Mail: tomj@orl.mmc.com Engineering Unix Support Tel: 407-826-7685 Lockheed Martin Corp, Orlando, FL Fax: 407-826-1881 *************************************************************/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 14:02:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 286 CPU's On Thu, 2 May 1996, Scott Davis wrote: ... > dirt) 16 bit operation... From a PC AT circa mid 80's or so... Good > setup I think- more than enough computing power for what I could think of > doing. And it was free. *grin* ^^^^ Ah, the magic word. =) > I would like to know how to make a good set of input/output board > connections for it. Any suggestions on how too hook it up? I think I I think a good place to look would be a J&D Microdevices catalog. As I recall there's some stuff available for data/sensor logging for lab work, like input boards and simple software to go with it. > As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built > nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very > large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic This is going to fit in your glovebox? Some of those old 286 cases were huge! Are you just going to use an inverter for a power source? > any preferred display types? To save space and power, I was thinking along the lines of an old plasma display you could cannibalize from an old laptop, along with its controller...but then you might has well rig up that laptop for the data logging system. Then as you add more screens you can duplicate the inside of KITT from "Knight Rider"..heh... -Jayson ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / || Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / / || ||/// / / / / / / / || jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / / ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 14:15:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Cyberspace.com server? On Fri, 3 May 1996, David Rees wrote: > Does anyone know if the CAP site is up? I get a DNS server not found error > everytime! Is the list still up? I haven't gotten any messages in a couple > days! > I've been able to connect to it. The list is up, just a bit quiet... and like you, I haven't gotten messages until like a couple minutes ago. The last two times, and just now, they came in bursts of 3 or 4. Weird. -Jayson ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / || Jayson Entao ||/// / / / / / / / || ||/// / / / / / / / || jmentao@ucdavis.edu ||/// / / / / / / / ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||/// / / / / / / / xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Transmission Rebuild? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 15:52:45 -0600 (CDT) From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One) Forwarded message: I finally got my Celica running. (86 GT-S) Now it feels like the synchro's out in 2nd gear. A big crunch on upshift, can't downshift without double-clutch. My Haynes manual seems to think I'm not ready for transmission work. It does give the diagrams of how the thing goes together, though. What's everyone's experience with this transmission? Should I go with rebuilt or new or junkyard or rebuild her myself? I've taken the transmission out several times in my motor rebuilding so I know I can do that much. Please help, the 1st to 3rd shift is embarassing me at the stoplight. Obmod: Where can I find a header for this car? Muffler recommendations? m.r -- "One might reasonably assume the employees of a comic strip would have some sense of humor, puny and plebian though it may be." POGO's Porky Pine, 1948 (Walt Kelly) ***********************mrages@umr.edu (Mark Rages)**************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: tire pressure for Celicas To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 16:41:13 -0700 (PDT) > >I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much > >change? > > > >Phil > > Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your > understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire > pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to > 35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire > pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling > characteristics (eg, understeer) > > Dave > If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front engined car, and the weight bias is more distributed to your front end (I'm not sure about the exact distribution numbers though). As the Celicas are front wheel drive cars, I do not see any predictable handling characteristics by increasing understeering. The front wheels would have less traction with increased understeering, which decreases handling. I would personally put more pressure in the rear and decrease pressure in the front tires, so that if loss of control occurs, the rear tires would break loose first and I could power my way back with the fronts. Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 19:56:56 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: ashley@oncomdis.on.ca (Ashley Preston) Subject: Re: 286 CPU's For what they're worth, here are my thoughts on using a 286 in a car. > As for weight, the heavy things about a 286 are the case (built >nails tough and inches thick) and the power supply (which uses a very >large transformer). Other than that, no weight. Encased in a plastic >box and no problem. > Can anyone resolve the input/output mess, though? I would like >to know how to get the data into and out of the processor... Are there >any preferred display types? > Finally, other than the motherboard, what components do I need to >make it all work? The stock 286 power supply will have to go. Remember, it runs on 115VAC. Obviously, +12VDC is readily available in a car (although I wouldn't consider it very clean), +5VDC could be easily obtained by regulating the +12VDC with linear (or switching) regulators. -12VDC is a bit more of a challenge, although I'm not sure that 286 motherboards use it. It may only exist for plug-in cards. In any case, you'll need a switcher for -12VDC. National Semiconductor has a line of 'Simple Switchers'. You may be able to talk a sample kit complete with components if you or someone else is in the industry. The simplest I/O (Input/Output) available on a PC would be through the peripherals built into a multi I/O card. This includes a few bits of parallel I/O in the form of the printer (parallel) port. The handshake lines on a serial port can be used, but these tend to have a -12V to +12V range, although they may work at 0V and +5V in a pinch. Also, potentiometers inputs can be interfaced through the joystick ports. Note: the joystick port will only work if connected to a potentiometer. It unfortunately can't be connected to an analog input. Another option, as someone else has already mentioned, are plug-in I/O boards available from several suppliers. You could get data out of the processor using seven segment displays or LED bar graphs etc. This would get away from having to use a heavy monitor (that also requires 115VAC). You could plug the monitor and keyboard in when setting up/maintaining the computer, but otherwise operate without it. If putting a computer in your car is a serious endeavour, you may want to see if you can get your hands on a development system. A Motorola M68HC16Z1EVB would make a great automotive based computer. It is a single board computer with built in parallel I/O, serial port, and has analog input capabilities. The processor is capable of some quite complicated timing functions such as are used in spark timing and injector timing. It may be hard to find one unless you or someone you know works in the electronics industry. I'd be interested with working with anybody who like to put a custom computer in their car. I have a small supply of parts that could be used for such a purpose, eg. swithing regulator ICs, seven segment displays, analog to digital convertors etc. in addition to access to all the design tools necessary for designing and building circuit boards. Let me know what you think. Ashley P. 81 Celica xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 17:15:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Re: 286 CPU's To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Supras (postings)" Many of these topics are also discussed on the "DIY EFI" list. See below for more info. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com ---------- ================================================================ Do - It - Yourself Electronic Fuel Injection ================================================================ To subscribe: Send "subscribe DIY_EFI [address]" to Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu. The request must be in the body of the message; *not* the subject line. For help: Send "help" to Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu. To post: Send to "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" Charter: (subject to change) This mailing-list is *strictly* dedicated to the discussion of topics related to EFI design and modification. I would like to see discussion on control algorithms, hardware, electronics, and sensor/sensor-interface designs. Additionally, modification and adaptations of OEM ECU's would also be welcomed. This list is temporary, and its continuance depends on the level of participation of its readers. John S. Gwynne WWW sites: diy_efi http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/~aden/web-docs/efi332/332_index.html Other related sites: http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/ http://spbted.gtri.gatech.edu:80/hpe/hpe.html xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 21:24:39 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: FS: Simpson 3" 5-point belts, w/cam lock, Y-shoulder, $100. OK everyone, spring is here and it's time to clean out my garage - and I'm serious. The first thing to go - the Simpson belts. 3" red and black belts, 5-point cam lock, un-opened submarine belt, Y-shoulder (single point mounting point) belt. Paid over $200 new from Simpson, just want to sell it to a needy racer. $100 (shipping included, prepaid money order). Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: tire pressure for Celicas To: micky@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (MICKY THUTIYAKUL) Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 02:02:47 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > > >I would like less understeer without changing sway bars. Can I expect much > > >change? > > > > > >Phil > > > > Hey Phil, well, you can use tire pressures to help balance your > > understeering by increasing front tire pressure and decreasing rear tire > > pressure, but this probably won't be enough. Try inflating your fronts to > > 35 or so and let the rears go down to 26. Toyota recommends these tire > > pressures because they want a comfortable ride and predictable handling > > characteristics (eg, understeer) > > > > Dave > > > > If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should > be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The > reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front > engined car, and the weight bias is more distributed to your front end > (I'm not sure about the exact distribution numbers though). As the > Celicas are front wheel drive cars, I do not see any predictable handling > characteristics by increasing understeering. The front wheels would have > less traction with increased understeering, which decreases handling. I > would personally put more pressure in the rear and decrease pressure in > the front tires, so that if loss of control occurs, the rear tires would > break loose first and I could power my way back with the fronts. > > Later, > Micky > '89 SC MR2 > According to the handling books I have and the SCCA rule book handling guide, increasing tire pressure increases grip and decreasing tire pressure decreases grip. So for less understeer (more oversteer), you'd want to have more pressure in the front and less in the rear. Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 02:43:44 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: robmach@aye.net (Robin Mach) Subject: Re: 286 CPU's >"hey, how could I get one of those into my car?" What kind >of power requirements will it have, and how will I get a small display >for it? > Being a severe techno-weenie myself, I'll stab at a few answers for you. Some of the other folks are quite right about power consumption as far as computers go. However, even a dinosaur motherboard is gonna eat less watts than a halogen headlight. Your voltage requirements are going to be +12v ( thats a no brainer in a car ), +5v ( almost as easy as +12 ), -12v and -5v which can supplied by a little electronic inverter without too much problem. Displays are no big problem either, although you will have to be capable of a little techno-hackery to pull it off. I am looking at an LCD graphic display right now in a catalog ( details in a minute ) which can give you the display capability of the top half of an average computer screen for $32.95 There are a wide range of other displays available in the same catalog for lower prices and resolutions. The same catalog offers an 8 channel A/D converter that works through a parallel port ( printer port ) for $79.95. Getting digital type information in and out can be handled any number of ways, none of which are too complicated. If you're serious about the idea, you can pick up a 386 motherboard, small footprint, low low power consumption for about $50.00 basically on the street corner. The above referenced goodies, along with all kinds of other neat elec-tech stuff, can be found in the catalog from: Marlin P. Jones & Assoc. P.O.B. 12685 Lake Park, FL 33403-0685 Voice 407-848-8236 Fax 800-432-9937 If nothing else this catalog is just a scream to look through. Another good source would be Nuts & Volts magazine and Circuit Cellar Inc. You'll have to track those down on your own though, as I don't have the info at hand for them. Lots of luck and keep us all posted on how it goes. Robin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 11:58:36 +0200 To: From: Chris Orasch Subject: Brake Fluid Hy everyone!! I want to change the brake fluid on my 91MR2 but I'm not sure which fluid I should use. Does anyone know the Castrol SuperDisc DOT5.1? I don't know if it's silicone based or not (it doesn't say anything about this on the bottle). The other option would be the MultiFlux DOT4. Any suggestions are welcome! BTW, how much fluid do I need for a complete change? Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 08:34:48 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock? I have been hearing that a straight pipe is the way to go with the '91Turbo MR2 - your bottom end will suffer, but the faster the exhaust can escape, the faster the turbo can spool up - sound right? Anyway, has anyone seen a straight pipe that goes from the front cat back to the stock muffler locatiosn? That would come out of the cat, then split off to a Y, and come out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes (maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order? Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 10:18:49 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Re: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock? Steve, J.C. Whitney-- 312-431-6102 (p.182, my catalog) has straight pipe stainless T304 in 3, 5, & 8' ft. lengths, all diams. from 2 to 3". Also non-stainless tubing. Monte >I have been hearing that a straight pipe is the way to go with the '91Turbo >MR2 - your bottom end will suffer, but the faster the exhaust can escape, >the faster the turbo can spool up - sound right? Anyway, has anyone seen a >straight pipe that goes from the front cat back to the stock muffler >locatiosn? That would come out of the cat, then split off to a Y, and come >out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much >better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but >performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes >(maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order? > >Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide. > >Steve B. > >bagdon@rust.net >http://www.rust.net/~bagdon >Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) >----------- >'85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). >'91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver >Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 14:27:57 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Re: Brake Fluid At 11:58 AM 5/4/96 +0200, Chris Orasch wrote: >Hy everyone!! > >I want to change the brake fluid on my 91MR2 but I'm not sure which fluid I >should use. >Does anyone know the Castrol SuperDisc DOT5.1? I don't know if it's silicone >based or not (it doesn't say anything about this on the bottle). >The other option would be the MultiFlux DOT4. >Any suggestions are welcome! Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb water, virtually eliminating the need to change brake fluid in the future. However, the drawback is that you need to COMPLETELY remove all traces of your existing brake fluid, a major pain in the arse. The silicone based brake fluids also tend to be slightly spongier as well as tougher to bleed (not to mention more expensive!) I think that a DOT4 brake fluid would be a better choice. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 15:07:57 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Weak side mirrors Hi! I was wondering if anyone else had this same problem and had any ideas on how to fix it on my '81 Celica. Well, what happens is that when I start going fast,(over 80mph) the side mirrors can't take the force from the wind and move in, so that I can't see anything. I want new mirrors, but something more substantial than the stock ones. Does any know if there are mirrors from a different Toyota that will bolt on? Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 20:59:47 -0700 From: Joe Ernst To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Canel Subscription Please cancel my subscription to this mailing list. Thank You, Joe Ernst xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 06:50:38 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tire pressure for Celicas > If you want to have less understeer, then your front tire pressure should be less than your rear tires. This would increase oversteering. The reason your front tires look underinflated is that you have a front < ************************************************************************* This is NOT correct. Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again. Therefore, to reduce understeer, you must pump up the fronts to increase their grip and/or reduce the rear pressure to decrease their grip. This is a well-known autocross trick that actually makes quite a bit of difference in the balance of the car. Just remember that changing your pressures in this manner will wear out the middles or your front tires and the edges of your rears. Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2, fresh off the autocross course Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 08:47:26 -0500 (CDT) From: Carey P Morris To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Carey P. Morris Location : St. Louis, MO (O'Fallon) Model : '87 Supra Turbo Engine : 7MGTE Mods : K&N Intake, HKS 75mm Exhaust (on order), HKS EVC III (not yet installed) email : cm7899@cec.wustl.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 08:54:02 -0500 (CDT) From: Carey P Morris To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: EVC III installation I asked this question on the supras list but didn't get a response. Maybe I should have asked here instead. Anyway... I have an '87 Supra Turbo that I'm installing the EVC III on. The installation instructions were a bit generic and I was looking for some first hand info to guide me with the non-electrical part. Specifically, placement inside the engine comparment and exactly which hoses to hook into and where...etc. I would just feel better about this with some first hand experience guiding me or offering tips. Thanks Carey '87 Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:02:57 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 3.0 Liter V6 Head Gasket Problems I have heard from may sources that the 1990 to about 1993 3.0L V6 engines whether used in the truck or 4-Runner (I have the 4-Runner) has a bad head gasket design. I have talked to 2 people that this has happened to and they indicated that the pass thru in the head gasket for the water jacket does not have enough material and this is where it goes. And when it goes it dumps coolant into the cylinder (I have heard number 6 and then again I have heard number 1). I have been told that Toyota has since redesigned the head gasket fixing the problem but is not issuing a recall for obvious warranty reasons. I first learned about it from talking to a guy who was picking his up from the dealer after having both head gaskets replaced to the tune of about $1200. Needless to say he said he was going to sue them over it. When I confronted the local dealer trying to find out what I could about the problem, of course they didn't own up to anything but saying it could happen, and that it probably would one day and that I should start saving my pennies now. Their response thourghly pissed me off! I have since heard via the net of Toyota on the west coast paying for the head gasket replacement where here on the east coast, nobody at Toyota wants to own up to anything. Does anyone know more about this problem, any recourse with Toyota or should I go ahead and replace them (i.e. get them before they get me) I really do not want to be stranded on a trip or anything should this happen. The mere fact that Toyota redesigned the head gasket tells me they identified a design flaw and corrected it. But the poor guys out there who still have the flaw have to wait. Here in NC they also tell me that they know of engines in excess of 150K miles that have not had the problem and that I should wait and see if it really is a problem. I personally think they are trying to blow sunshine up ther publics but myself. Any knowledge of this or opinions? Steve xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 09:07:24 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Re: '91T MR2 straight pipe that looks oem/stock? To: S and K Bagdon Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Steve, I've seen one... it's on my MR2. Unfortunately, it doesn't meet all your criteria, specifically, it was custom manufactured by a local race car fabricator :-( Has nice stainless tips, all mandrel bent bends, etc. The only giveaway that its not stock is that the left side (driver's side) pipe has most of the black soot in it, very little on the other one. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged On Sat, 4 May 1996, S and K Bagdon wrote: > out of the rear, with the fender tips and all. I though it would look much > better if the car *looked* stock - with the two tips on each side - but > performed like a stright pipe. Anyway, has anyone seen *any* stright pipes > (maybe even in stainless) that is orderable, and isn't a special order? > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: Re: tire pressure for Celicas To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 09:44:18 -0700 (PDT) > This is NOT correct. Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will > increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again. > Therefore, to reduce understeer, you must pump up > the fronts to increase their grip and/or reduce the rear pressure to > decrease their grip. This is a well-known autocross trick that actually > makes quite a bit of difference in the balance of the car. Just remember > that changing your pressures in this manner will wear out the middles or > your front tires and the edges of your rears. > > Christopher T. Berchin > 1988 MR2, fresh off the autocross course > Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com > From the responses to this I figure I must be wrong. Not being an autocrosser myself, I admit that I have not read many books on the subject and do not do too many successive quickturns required by the sport. But based on my own experiences with tire pressures, my front tires squeal alot less at the limit with lower pressures up front than in the rear. High speed lane changes also feel more positive requiring less steering input. I really don't have a bias towards any pressure setup, but after a lot of experimenting, this was my conclusion. Is this all psychological or what? The most I've ever runned with was 35 psi in the fronts and and rear. Felt a little bouncy around the corners, so I never upped it any higher. But if it'll make me take corners faster, I'm willing to try :) Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 06 May 96 12:55:08 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: "Steve B." Cc: Geoff , Subject: Hesitation (fuel cut?) Hello all, Once again I'm looking for advice from you, my trusted technical advisors. ;-) I have a slight (I hope) problem. I have the boost set at about 1 bar. As you all know, when you are at WOT in third & fourth (fifth doesn't come into play in the quarted mile yet...) the boost will spike (thanks to a manual controller) a little past the actual setting. Well, when I spike, it feels like I'm triggering the fuel cut for a split second. I don't get any lights, and after the spike settles all is OK, but it's hampering my performance. I was at Long Island Dragway yesterday, and my best MPH was only 95.998. I have has MPH as high as 100.09 at my current stage of modification. What could be causing this? The only thing that I can think of is that perhaps the Supra knock sensor *is* a little different than the MR2 and it's off a little with the timing? Any questions/ comments will be greatly appreciated. As you all know, you can reach me at: 103617.1033@compuserve.com Thanks for the help, Larry S. P.S. Cal, you are the newest addition to my problem mailing list. I hope you don't mind too much ;-) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Transmission Rebuild? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 12:30:43 -0600 (CDT) From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One) Forwarded message: > From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Fri May 3 16:44:42 1996 > Message-Id: <199605032052.PAA02639@saucer.cc.umr.edu> > Subject: Transmission Rebuild? > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 15:52:45 -0600 (CDT) > From: mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One) > X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL20] > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com > Precedence: bulk I, mrages@umr.edu (The Cool One), quote myself: > > Now it feels like the synchro's out in 2nd gear. > A big crunch on upshift, can't downshift without double-clutch. > > My Haynes manual seems to think I'm not ready for transmission work. It > does give the diagrams of how the thing goes together, though. I got one response (thanks, Dirk) suggesting that 2nd gear synchros are prone to go on this car (86 Cel GT-S). This would incline me away from the junkyard option. Is there a place that might sell a high-performance, better-than-stock type of synchro? 'Cause there's going to be some stoplight action in this car's future, with hard shifts into 2nd. Thanks. and sorry for following up my own request. m.r. -- "One might reasonably assume the employees of a comic strip would have some sense of humor, puny and plebian though it may be." POGO's Porky Pine, 1948 (Walt Kelly) ***********************mrages@umr.edu (Mark Rages)**************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 11:41:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Am I mad?? (probably!! ; ) To: Chris Myer , Well, I'm about to plunge into somethings I've ALWAYS wanted to do .. but I thought I'd ask for some opinions first. I've found a guy who prepares RX3 race cars. He's got an '87 MR2 burnt out shell. It's been stripped and stored ... basically covered in light surface rust ... nothing serious. the roof was slightly damaged when the car was removed after the fire. The guy has bought a brand new roof for it - it's still in the box. He paid $1000 (US$680) for it and $300 (US$200) for the new roof .. he just wants $300 (US$200) to cover the roof cost ... basically ... he wants to get rid of it cos he loves rotaries more : ) He had the whole thing planned out to turn it into a race car .. so has LOTS of great ideas .... including templates made up for camber plates .... roll cage all worked out .. etc etc. What the car needs: interior, seats, harnesses, engine/wiring loom/computer, trans including gear linkages to gear knob, fuel tank, doors, boot lid, paint job, rear bumper/lights, windows, wheels/tyres, shocks, all plastic rubber, radiator Ok .. what I have and how to replace these above things: - Interior ... he's sourced a wrecked SC car and had arranged to buy all he needed of this car .. i'd use the SCer brakes too .. they're bigger. - Seats and harnesses .. buy new race ones - Engine/wiring loom/computer/trans including gear linages to gear knob. I HAVE ALL THIS!! Woo hoo ... I bought basically the whole engine etc from a wrecked mr2 and have been rebuilding it. I though i could do up the head and keep it realatively normal and CHEAP to start with. Cost is a big factor here .. so only cheap mods will be made to start with ... air filter, exhaust ... port/polish .. any other ideas? Once money is more abundant .. either fully do the head .. cams, carbs etc .. or put in a 4AGZE. - Fuel tank - buy from wrecked car - Doors - buy from wrecked car - boot lid/rear bumpers . can mold these in fibreglass using my own car as a model (will just come out smelling of resin for a coupld of days) - rear lights - buy off wrecked car - windows - windscreen off wrecked car .. or new .... other windows perspex. - shocks - hey, i knew i bought those TRD shocks and race springs for something .. they'll do til I can afford a REAL serious race setup ... i'll see how it goes. : ) - all rubbers, bushes etc - off wrecked cars .. new bushes (poly) all round - wheels/tyres ... new. - radiator .. off wrecked car Also need to do: FIRST: seam weld it .. put new roof on .. sand blast .. acid dip ... primer .. paint. I can primer and paint it. full roll cage So... do ya think i'm mad? I reacon .... being careful and starting out cheap to start with (using basically stock engine etc) i can get it on the track for US$6,800 (NZ$10,000). THis is TRACK racing BTW .. not autocrossing. this will NOT be a road car .. however ... i might want to drive it to the track cos i've got nothing to tow it with!! ; ) Later Mad Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" '87 Race MR2??? AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:52:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Phillip Dang To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas Christopher T. Berchin wrote: > [deleted] > Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will > increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again. > [deleted] > The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct? Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 17:49:01 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas >The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you >autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce >the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct? Yes, this is true. Personnally I run 38psi front and 39psi rear on my car on the track. I only use these tires for autocross so that's where I leave them, but my street tires are 32 psi. Chris' point was that it's possible to increase grip to a certain point, then it stops to fall off (so don't inflate those babies to 60 psi and expect it to help!!!) :) BTW, in autocross if I run any less PSI than this I start rolling the tire down onto the sidewall where there is no grip. On the street you don't put the same forces into the tire as on the track (well, I do sometimes...). I run my Probe GT at 28 front and 24 rear, so it's all up to you and the ride quality and handling you want, depending on your car, the setup, the weight distribution, springs, etc. etc. Dave A. *** Forwarding note from I1742083--IBMMAIL 05/06/96 16:13 *** Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 11:52:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Phillip Dang To: The Toyota Mods Mailing List Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas Christopher T. Berchin wrote: > [deleted] > Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will > increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again. > [deleted] > The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct? Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles ---- End of mail text Additional SMTP headers from original mail item follow: Received: from cyberspace.cyberauto.com by E-MAIL.COM (IBM VM SMTP V2R3) with TCP; Mon, 06 May 96 16:12:38 EDT Received: (from root@localhost) by cyberspace.cyberauto.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id OA A01033 for toyota-mods-outgoing; Mon, 6 May 1996 14:47:44 -0400 X-Sender: ez049105@boris.ucdavis.edu In-Reply-To: <199605061046.GAA00831@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com Precedence: bulk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 6 May 1996 15:39:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Geoff Seeley To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Brake Fluid David Rees wrote: > Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol > Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb You are wrong :-) DOT5 is silicone based, but DOT5.1 is not. To answer the posters original question, I use the following in my '91 MR2t: Motul racing brake fluid 600, DOT 4, 100% synthetic fluid, 585(F)/307(C) boiling point. Geoff '91MT2t, 172,000km http://mr2.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 15:59:34 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Re: Tire pressure for Celicas >Christopher T. Berchin wrote: >> [deleted] >> Increasing tire pressure up to about 40-45psi will >> increase tire grip. After 45psi, the grip starts to reduce again. >> [deleted] >> >The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you >autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce >the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct? > >Phil The maximum COLD infatable pressure is 35psi. The temps can easily climb into the 40-45 psi range while driving. I'm not sure if they mean 40-45 cold or warm though. Tire manufactureres usually build a margin of saftey into their tires, especially high performance tires. You probably could run up to 40 psi cold pressures without a problem on the track. Correct me if I'm wrong though!!! Don't want to cause a tire blowout! Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 06 May 1996 16:28:10 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Re: Brake Fluid >From: Geoff Seeley >David Rees wrote: > >> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all DOT5 (does this include the Castol >> Superdisc DOT5.1?) are silicone based. Benifits are that it doesn't absorb > >You are wrong :-) DOT5 is silicone based, but DOT5.1 is not. > >To answer the posters original question, I use the following in my '91 MR2t: > >Motul racing brake fluid 600, DOT 4, 100% synthetic fluid, 585(F)/307(C) >boiling point. > >Geoff I thought I could be, do you know if you have to be as careful with cleaning out your brake system with DOT5.1 as you do with DOT5? (I still think DOT4 is one of the best way to go...) dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 07 May 1996 07:07:47 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tire Pressure > The maximum inflatable pressure is 35 psi for my tires. I assume you autocrossers only run the high pressures during the autocross and reduce the pressures below the maximum inflatable pressure, correct? < That is correct. I drive to the local events with the air already in the tires and feel every pebble on the street. The car is quite responsive, however, almost hyperactive. Then I bleed them down for the ride home. Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 07 May 1996 09:25:00 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tires (autocross) Just wondering, does anyone have a set of good autocross tires they want to get rid of? I'm thinking Yokohama A008RSII or BFG R1, size 185/60R14. They don't need to be "like new," but "no cords" would be nice... :) Thanks! .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2s, one green, one silver daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 11:00:13 -0700 (PDT) From: An-Hong Chien To: Raikkonen Timo Cc: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: converting *TC to 2TG (and big bore = 2 liter) hi there.....u guys were talking about porting. i have a 1987 mr2 and want more power. i was wondering how much porting would cost me and where i can get itdone. thanks in advance dave On Tue, 7 May 1996, Raikkonen Timo wrote: > > Hello Monte! > > MONTE: > Please tell me if this is correct: > > In the 2TG, the two timing gears are both contained inside the head, so > that if I buy a *complete* head, the gears should be there. > > Is the chain tensioner also in the head? > > The 2TG has lower compression pistons, hmmmm. Then I'd have to buy > a new set of pistons to get high compression (somewhere around 11:1). > Hmmm. > > TIMO: > The 2T-Gxx head's are good heads flowing 140-150hp in stock form > and with porting they flow 200-215hp (stock valves) - I have done it :). > In comparison 2T head flows in stock form about 90-100hp and with > porting about 150hp (this isn't as exact informatiion as above in 2T-Gxx > case - ecxactly 2T-GEU with xxxxx251 head). Older twincam heads are > Toyota heads and have xxxxx222 or something else xxxxx2xx code - > the 222 head is with bigger valves and is the latest Toyota head. Then > came Yamaha heads ( and they all had bigger valves - don't remmeber > the size). Yamaha heads were also a lot better design than Toyota > heads. Yamaha heads are called xxxxxx250 or 251 (I had 251 - don't > know what is the difference between 250 or 251). U can also differ > Toyota head from Yamaha head by looking the front of the head and > the elliptical cover plate - in Toyota head the plate is in horisontal > position and in Yamaha head it's rotated to the left a little (some 20 > degree). 18-RG heads also has tilted cover plate in the front of the > head - don't mess these look for the code I mentioned above, and > usually there are labels on this cover witch head is in case. > > The complete head should keep inside cams, gears (and small pins > to keep them locked to the cam), chain tensioner (it's in the front left of > the head pointing to the direction where distributor is), valve cover and > oil fill cap. Then need that chain that is also available cheaply in > stores - if u have old chain as model u can go and get stock chain the > same size to replace teh old one - I recommend to do this. Then u shoulg > get the short cam that should have thesetwo gearas attached - check the > gears for cracked "teeths" (in case somebody has dropped them - > otherwise they last long :). > > "Newer" 2T-GEU "smock"-engines from '80 had 8.4 compression and > older 9.4 to 9.8 and 10.1 at least to my memory... u could check these out. > > This 8.4 2T-GEU is "good" for turbo charging - as I did :) It could handle > the mild boost (0.5 bar or even more) quite well, but if going further (ie. > 0.9 > bar) swap to forced pistons like VW Beetle (Mahle or Shima). > > MONTE: > Do you have any experience with the 3TC connecting rods. If so, do you > think that 3TC connecting rods are up to the demands of a 2 litre/200 hp > version of a 2TG? Do you think this bottom would reliably handle 220-225 > hp if turbo-charged? My use is enthusiastic street driving. > > Thanks very much for your reply. > > Monte > > TIMO: > Yes I have built from 2T-GEU a turbo charged a bit over 2 liter engine. I > used 3T connection rods and VW 90.5 pistons (take the short ones - > meaning that the diameter from wrist pin to the top of the piston should > be specific depending what compression u want - this way has been > built turbo & non turbo "big bore" 2TG engines with succes). > > The block and base engine was from '82 Celica GT. The block take > this 5.5mm bore very well and is still in one peace after many years > of hard driving - older blocks though has been damaged when trying > to bore so... The VW pistons should be fitted so that the arrow points > to the flywheel becouse VW engines rotates to the opposite way as > 2TG and others inline 4's etc. (this is if u have pistons that have wrist > pins that are not in the center of the piston). U also have to make/ > allow the wrist pin to move in the pin (in stock VW piston it's not > moving) becouse the connection rod in 2TG is pressure fitted in the > wrist pin. This operation will work - done that :) The piston doesn't > require any machining when bulding a turbo engine with "flat" VW > pistons and stock cams. > > Stock head gasget is good to 1.0 bar above that steel gagsget is > needed ( I haven't found steel gasget for 2TG with 90.5 bore =(. > > The 3T connecting rods are the same as 2T or 2TG, only the pistons > and crankshaft is different - so u need only crank and VW pistons to > build a big bore 2TG. 3T crank is heavy compared to 2TG crank but > will rew like hell in this big bore 2TG... :) The botomend will take with > stock bearings easily 200-300hp if not rewwed very high - this will > kill bearings. I had in my big bore 2T-GE turbo stock bearings and > some 250hp and it was all season street car. > > -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) > > PS. Other 2TG dudes here can correct this if necessary and add > comments for your benefit. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 12:29:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Geoff Seeley To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Brake Fluid David Rees wrote: > I thought I could be, do you know if you have to be as careful with cleaning > out your brake system with DOT5.1 as you do with DOT5? (I still think DOT4 > is one of the best way to go...) I seem to remember reading that DOT5.1 is compatible/mixable with DOT3/4... (Wish I had saved those postings to rec.autos.* now...) I would try DOT5.1 if I could find it here, but DOT4 is good enough. I think DOT5 should only be used in racing applications and in situations where you might completely replace the brake line system (ie. classic car rebuild) I also remember reading about the fact that DOT5 should NOT be used in ABS systems... Geoff '91MR2t, 172,100km xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Subject: RE: converting *TC to 2TG (and big bore = 2 liter) Date: Tue, 07 May 96 14:00:00 PDT Hello Monte! MONTE: Please tell me if this is correct: In the 2TG, the two timing gears are both contained inside the head, so that if I buy a *complete* head, the gears should be there. Is the chain tensioner also in the head? The 2TG has lower compression pistons, hmmmm. Then I'd have to buy a new set of pistons to get high compression (somewhere around 11:1). Hmmm. TIMO: The 2T-Gxx head's are good heads flowing 140-150hp in stock form and with porting they flow 200-215hp (stock valves) - I have done it :). In comparison 2T head flows in stock form about 90-100hp and with porting about 150hp (this isn't as exact informatiion as above in 2T-Gxx case - ecxactly 2T-GEU with xxxxx251 head). Older twincam heads are Toyota heads and have xxxxx222 or something else xxxxx2xx code - the 222 head is with bigger valves and is the latest Toyota head. Then came Yamaha heads ( and they all had bigger valves - don't remmeber the size). Yamaha heads were also a lot better design than Toyota heads. Yamaha heads are called xxxxxx250 or 251 (I had 251 - don't know what is the difference between 250 or 251). U can also differ Toyota head from Yamaha head by looking the front of the head and the elliptical cover plate - in Toyota head the plate is in horisontal position and in Yamaha head it's rotated to the left a little (some 20 degree). 18-RG heads also has tilted cover plate in the front of the head - don't mess these look for the code I mentioned above, and usually there are labels on this cover witch head is in case. The complete head should keep inside cams, gears (and small pins to keep them locked to the cam), chain tensioner (it's in the front left of the head pointing to the direction where distributor is), valve cover and oil fill cap. Then need that chain that is also available cheaply in stores - if u have old chain as model u can go and get stock chain the same size to replace teh old one - I recommend to do this. Then u shoulg get the short cam that should have thesetwo gearas attached - check the gears for cracked "teeths" (in case somebody has dropped them - otherwise they last long :). "Newer" 2T-GEU "smock"-engines from '80 had 8.4 compression and older 9.4 to 9.8 and 10.1 at least to my memory... u could check these out. This 8.4 2T-GEU is "good" for turbo charging - as I did :) It could handle the mild boost (0.5 bar or even more) quite well, but if going further (ie. 0.9 bar) swap to forced pistons like VW Beetle (Mahle or Shima). MONTE: Do you have any experience with the 3TC connecting rods. If so, do you think that 3TC connecting rods are up to the demands of a 2 litre/200 hp version of a 2TG? Do you think this bottom would reliably handle 220-225 hp if turbo-charged? My use is enthusiastic street driving. Thanks very much for your reply. Monte TIMO: Yes I have built from 2T-GEU a turbo charged a bit over 2 liter engine. I used 3T connection rods and VW 90.5 pistons (take the short ones - meaning that the diameter from wrist pin to the top of the piston should be specific depending what compression u want - this way has been built turbo & non turbo "big bore" 2TG engines with succes). The block and base engine was from '82 Celica GT. The block take this 5.5mm bore very well and is still in one peace after many years of hard driving - older blocks though has been damaged when trying to bore so... The VW pistons should be fitted so that the arrow points to the flywheel becouse VW engines rotates to the opposite way as 2TG and others inline 4's etc. (this is if u have pistons that have wrist pins that are not in the center of the piston). U also have to make/ allow the wrist pin to move in the pin (in stock VW piston it's not moving) becouse the connection rod in 2TG is pressure fitted in the wrist pin. This operation will work - done that :) The piston doesn't require any machining when bulding a turbo engine with "flat" VW pistons and stock cams. Stock head gasget is good to 1.0 bar above that steel gagsget is needed ( I haven't found steel gasget for 2TG with 90.5 bore =(. The 3T connecting rods are the same as 2T or 2TG, only the pistons and crankshaft is different - so u need only crank and VW pistons to build a big bore 2TG. 3T crank is heavy compared to 2TG crank but will rew like hell in this big bore 2TG... :) The botomend will take with stock bearings easily 200-300hp if not rewwed very high - this will kill bearings. I had in my big bore 2T-GE turbo stock bearings and some 250hp and it was all season street car. -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) PS. Other 2TG dudes here can correct this if necessary and add comments for your benefit. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 07 May 96 23:58:54 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Air Flow Sensor If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass smog though since I'm in CA. Thanks for the Help, Alex 91 Yellow MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: KipAnderso@aol.com Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 00:11:57 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Crash!!! Just a quick note to anybody who's not received a response from me in the last few days. I got to monkeying around with installing some new software and totally crashed Windows 95 in the process. Since my net programs (AOL excluded - phew!) are all 32 bit, I'm having to make do with what still works. To make this appropriate to both lists, I must inform you all that I've modified my MR2 by tying all of those crummy little Windows 95 disks to strings that I will drag about town until there is nothing left. Please direct all responses directly to me since I'm not subscribed to either list from this account and may not be able to access the other account for another week or more (my OS is a shambles). Kip Anderson kipanderso@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 00:33:26 -0700 To: Alex Pun <75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>, From: Aric Shen Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor At 11:58 PM 5/7/96 EDT, Alex Pun wrote: >If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I >have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass >smog though since I'm in CA. > >Thanks for the Help, > >Alex >91 Yellow MR2 Turbo Actually, if you removed the air flow sensor, your car wouldn't run. The air filter kits just bolt up to the air flow sensor. % Aric Shen % % Speedline Racing Concepts % % 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 % % e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com % % home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted % & check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic % xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 07:24:43 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: Alex Pun <75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> Cc: Toyota Modifications Server Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor Alex Pun wrote: > > If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I > have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass > smog though since I'm in CA. > > Thanks for the Help, > > Alex > 91 Yellow MR2 Turbo nope, you install any type of air filtration upgrade before the airflow meter. Without it, the engine won't run (unless you have an HKS VPC of course). Also, changing the filter shouldn't affect anything that has to do with your smog devices. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Return of the juddering brakes ! Date: Wed, 08 May 96 07:28:41 PDT Some of might remember that I had a problem with my steering being stiff and my brakes juddering. Well I fixed the steering problem. That was the UJ, but the juddering brakes are back. I don't think it is the discs because they are new from Toyota (standard i'm afraid). I have a new CV boot that I haven't fitted yet as I was told it was a very time consuming job and I have been very busy lately. Any ideas, please this is really starting to bug me ?? Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 101000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 08:35:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: NZ Endurance Race Here's some interesting results from the South Island (NZ) Endurance Championship, which was 3 three-hour races with a pit stop, fuel fill and driver change...I ganked this from the honda list... ----------------------------------- These are the results of the first race: Place Laps Class Car 1) 163 C Chevy Lumina TranzAm 6 litre V8 2) 160 C Series 2 Mazda RX7 turbo 3) 155 C Ford Sierra RS 500 2litre turbo 4) 152 B BMW 2l touring car 5) 149 C Series 1 Mazda RX7 turbo 6) 148 A Honda CRX 1600 VTEC 7) 147 C Toyota MR2 turbo <---------Go Toyota! 8) 145 B Honda Integra 1800 vtec 9) 146 B Mazda RX7 10) 145 C Porsche 911sc 11) 145 A Toyota Starlet 1600 <---------Yeah! =) 12) 145 C Mitsubishi Lancer 1600 turbo 13) 144 A Toyota Corolla 1600 14) 144 A Toyota Truneo 1600 15) 141 A Honda Civic 1600 vtec 16) 141 B Toyota Celica 2000 6 cylinder 17) 141 A Toyota Starlet 1600 18) 140 A Nissan Sentra 1600 19) 138 C Holden Commodore 5L V8 20) 136 B Mazda RX3 21) 135 A '87 Honda Civic 1600 DOHC 22) 134 A Peugeot 106 1300 23) 129 B Datson 180 B --------------------------------- -Jayson Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Geoff Seeley To: mr2-digest@validgh.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: G-Tech Pro Grou Purchase *Please* reply to rsalerno@li.net if you are interested, I'm just forwarding this for Russ... (I have nothing to do with this, other than ordering one for myself :-) ---------- Begin Forwarded Message ---------- >From rsalerno@li.net Mon May 6 21:32:43 1996 Date: Tue, 7 May 1996 00:14:50 -0400 To: Martin Scarr , Steve Hauswirth , Michael Gregory , Charles Baldridge , Micah Thompson , Robert Vautrain , Frank Szymkowski , Brad Davis , Chris Bonisa , Spiff , stratcat , Wayne Campbell , Mark Murphy , "Roger M. Corman" , Mike Goetz , BLTHEDE@INDYVAX.IUPUI.EDU, Iceman@cris.com, Geoff Seeley , "Dink" , dan@rsinc.com, Harg Tholan , Richard Moburg , Phil , Jan Ben , Michael Shawstad , Jack Marino , Perry , Gary Hoffman , Terry Hartman , Rune Ydstebo , Arya Behzad , Brandon From: rsalerno@li.net (Russell Salerno) Subject: G-Tech Pro Grou Purchase I'm sending this to everyone who expressed an interest in the G-Tech... it will be going out to the lists shortly. If you would like to get one at a discount read on. -Russ -------------- If you wish to participate in the G-Tech Pro group purchase here are the details. The purchase is open to members of the GN/T-Type list, F-Body list, and Sy-Ty list. 1) We need to purchase a minimum of 12 units to qualify for the group discount. 2) Price is $89.95 US, plus $10 to cover shipping and handling. Total cost is $99.95 US. 3) Payment is in advance, in US dollars, by certified check or US Postal Service money order ONLY. Other forms of payment cannot be accepted and will be returned. Please do not ask for exceptions. 4) Once we have a commitment for at least 12 units, everyone will be asked to mail their payment to the coordinator (me I guess). The coordinator will make a list of ship-to addresses, and forward the list along with payment to Tesla Electronics. Tesla will ship each unit directly to the recipient. 5) If, at the end of three weeks we cannot get commitments for at least 12 units, the group purchase will likely be cancelled. I've tried to outline everything so that there will be no confusion or misunderstandings. If you want to participate, please send email to rsalerno@li.net with the subject "G-Tech Group Purchase". Please include your name, shipping address, day & evening home number, and quantity desired. That's it. If I've forgotten anything, or if you have any questions please let me know. -Russ Salerno +-------------------------------------------------------------+ | Russ Salerno '89 Turbo T/A #907 rsalerno@li.net | | finger for PGP key | +-------------------------------------------------------------+ ----------- End Forwarded Message ----------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 13:17:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Wind deflectors To: Toyota Mods > The reason for the wind deflectors is to minimize the amount of "boom" in the > car at speed. By breaking up the air with the deflector the low frequency > resonance (aka: boom) is reduced. I get this boom on my '86 T-Top .... doesn't worry me if i wind my windows down about 3/4". Ade : ) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 17:39:50 -0400 (EDT) To: Aric Shen From: celica GT-R Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com i have the Gracer Airinx filter in my celica, which also has a mass air sensor, and all i needed was a little metal adapter for the MAF sensor to connect to the new filter, and then a gracer adapter that connects from the regular adapter(other filters fit onto the 1st adapter, but the Gracer Airinx needs another one-at least in my car) to the actual air filter. that is a hella good filter, but i'm currently trying a new one made up here in northern cali. it's the Weapon-R filter made by Revolutions Motorsports in Burlingame (near Frisco). i just picked it up to try it, and it's a very good copy(almost exact) of the greddy filter, and waaaaay cheaper. the regular weapon-R filter is only like 35-40 bucks and it comes in hella different colors. i might actually sell the gracer to a friend pretty soon because i like the new filter so much...obviously, i havent told him about weapon-R yet, heheh. it'll save ya some dinero so i would check it out, but wait a couple weeks when the! "Airv antage plus" comes out. this one is an exact duplicate of the greddy filter, with the cool mesh cage and all, but it's supposed to produce more hp...so in case you dont have it by then, i'll sell ya my filter in two weeks! call up REVolutions at (415)259-9REV and ask for Leo or Aaron... >-) (asian smiley face) antonio celica GT-R aponton@concentric.net At 12:33 AM 5/8/96 -0700, you wrote: >At 11:58 PM 5/7/96 EDT, Alex Pun wrote: >>If I were to install an air intake kit, such as the Greddy or HKS one, would I >>have to remove the air flow sensor? This seems to me that it would not pass >>smog though since I'm in CA. >> >>Thanks for the Help, >> >>Alex >>91 Yellow MR2 Turbo > >Actually, if you removed the air flow sensor, your car wouldn't run. The >air filter kits just bolt up to the air flow sensor. > >% Aric Shen % >% Speedline Racing Concepts % >% 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 % >% e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com % >% home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted % >& check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic % > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 10:06:29 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: me/mine/mods Greetings! My name is Phil Bradshaw and I now have the technology to join this group. I am presently a final year Manufacturing and Industrial Technology Student at Massey University in Palmerston North, New Zealand, and I have to use the campus' computer facilities. I'm ordinarily an Engineering Officer in the NZ Navy, and am being sponsored thru' the degree. Being 30 years old, I am supposed to be a 'mature student', but that is open to debate. Enough of the boring stuff. My car is a 'Leitch Super Sprint' which is a Lotus/Caterham 7 replica built by a company in Invercargill, NZ. It is similar to a 'Fraser' for those familiar with the NZ kit car industry. I built the car from a kit in 1992, and initially ran a 1983 blue and black top 4AGE that I liberated from a AE86 Levin that lost an arguement with a lampost. That engine lasted 23,000 miles before it died on a race track, so now it runs a 1991 1587 cc 120kW 20 valve. Yes, that's the VVT motor you lot have been writing about. I put the motor in myself, and have written some magazine articles about it for the Sports Car Club of NZ, which have been published. I believe I have a reasonable amount of knowledge and experience, especially as I wired up the Fraser in Hamilton with the 20 valve over xmas. My car has covered some 23,000 miles on the 20 valve and goes great. I have the magazine articles in word 6 format, so let me know what to do/where to send them. Look forward to meeting the mods group, and learning your protocols! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 18:49:12 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter) Subject: me/mine/mods Name :Kelly Carter Location:College Station, Texas, USA Model :1989 MR2 Engine :4A-GE, TVIS Mods :coming up on 100,000mi and plan to rebuild and modify email :kcarter@archone.tamu.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (celica GT-R) Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 21:14:02 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Speaking of air-filters, I have a customized setup using a medium-sized HKS filter. The person who installed it the first time had to make a bracket to fit the square housing on the air-flow sensor. He made it out of plastic. Needless to say it was not very strong as it broke off one day at the base of the bracket. I only noticed it was broken when the engine or exhaust, for that matter became relatively louder. LUckily he ordered a bracket from HKS which is what I have on right now. Nice steel bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery is right smack in front of the airfilter. I'm also not too convinced that the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: me/mine/mods To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (celica GT-R) Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 21:34:48 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I apoligize if this looks like an episode of 20 questions, but I get very curious when someone performs a major "makeover" of a Celica, especially the '86-89 models. A really nice "done-up" car of this generation is a rare find, at least in my part of town. > Engine: Rebuilt 2SE What car does a 2SE come from by the way? > Modifications: Gracer Airinx intake filter > Sebring exhaust with 2 1/4" pipes > Magnecor performance ignition cables > NGK-R sparkplugs Do you notice any performance gain from the Magnecor and NGK plugs. How are these plugs different from the stock ones. I have NGK on mine by the way. One of my wires had gone dead too in the past, which was quite unhealthy for the engine actually. Oh, what muffler do you use? Funny I have Sebring as part of the exhaust too, but just the tip. Muffler's Borla on mine > > Tokico sport springs > Tokico shocks (getting them in two weeks) > Custom strut tower brace > 16 inch rims (not chrome)with 215/40/R16 tires > Suspension techniques sway bars (getting them with the shocks) > Z-speed racing lugnuts > Piaa 1000 white driving lights > Saab side markers(heheheh) The first time I saw the descrioption on your car, I seriously thought of mine. I also run 215/40/16. I run P700's. Reason being I didn't want the BF goodrich. The ideal size would be 215/45/16, but I believe continental only sells them, DOn't know if I can find them in my area though. I also run PIaa lights, 959's though. I switch the lenses for 910's in the summer, great illumination in the dark. I'm also consirering H&R springs with Koni shocks because I would like to adjust the shocks and H&R lowers 1/4inch more than the Eibach's > > Momo "Champion" steering wheel > Momo "Race Air" shift knob > Razo aluminum pedals > I'm assuming you have a GTS model. Did you have the cruise-control on your steering wheel also? I'm wondering what I would have to do if I planned on changing the steering wheel. What 'bout the pedals? Nice fit? I would sure love a set, stock pedals feel a little small, and they don't have a firm base. Ever considered a quick-shift knob? Some guy told me C's makes one for the car, maybe he was wrong. Would be nice though, that stock stick is allfully long and knotchy. Richard | '86 Celica GTS | xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 15:12:51 +1000 (EST) From: Justin Simpson To: Bill Sherwood Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Cam Timing. Hi Bill, well i've dialled the cams in as close to factory specs as i can (not having a vernier cam gear) which resulted in the following. These were all measured at 1 mm lift. Exhaust opens 32 deg before BDC and closes 3 deg after TDC with maximum lift at 105 deg before TDC. The inlet opens at 5 deg before TDC and closes at 26 deg after BDC with max lift at 104 deg after TDC. It's not immediately apparent how to measure the overlap but it looks to me like 58 deg around BDC with a further 8 deg around TDC but I'm not sure what this means as these are crank angles and the cams rotate at half the rate etc etc and my brain is starting to hurt. Whatever the overlap just by eyeballing the cams i would say it's as little as you could possibly get ie. at TDC the No.1 cam lobes are pointing directly away from each other. Serious burrowing through my turbo textbook library finally turned up a vague reference stating a maximum overlap of 50-60 deg was desirable for a turboed motor but this was for a pushrod boat anchor and may not apply to a higher reving twincam. I'd really appreciate any comments on this set up you would care to make (and anyone else for that matter) if only for peace of mind (mine). Thanks. Cheers ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Sun, 17 Dec 1995, Bill Sherwood wrote: > I finally rang my other home and got the numbers on cam timing > that I was after. As a _general_ rule, but one that seems to > apply to the majority of set-ups, the exhaust cam must be set at > 100 crank degrees and the inlet at 102 degrees. > WHAT THE HECK DOES THAT MEAN, BILL? > Ok, I'm glad you asked. (Uh-oh, the complex bit...) > The measurement is taken from the top of the cam lobe and is > the number of degrees the crankshaft must be turned to bring > the cam lobe parallel with the valve centreline. The measurements > are taken from # 1 cylinder. > What it should look like is this - with the crank at TDC #1, > the #1 cam lobes will be pointing away from each other, angled > down towards the ground at a slight angle. > To check the timing, turn the crank, and at 100 degrees crank > rotation, the exhaust cam lobe should be pointing exactly away > from the exhaust valve along the valve's axis. > With the crank 102 degrees before TDC #1, the inlet cam lobe > should be pointing exactly away from the inlet valve along the > valve's axis. > All these measurements can only be made with an accurate > dialgauge. > > *** Note - it is EXTREMELY inportant to accurately measure > TDC # 1. The manufacturers mark on the crank pulley is not good > enough! To get an accurate TDC, what you do is this - take out > # 1 sparkplug, then the dialgauge (measuring 0.001" increments) > set the piston 0.050" down the bore both on just before TDC and > just after TDC. Mark the degree wheel on the front of the crank > both times - the point exactly between both marks is exactly > TDC. (Toyota are normally pretty good, _of course!_) > Now the fiddly part - you have to do the process > again for both the cams. When you set the cam timing, if you > have to advance or retard the cam, then you have to measure > the cam lobe TDC all over again..... Fun, huh? If you're > not that serious (don't blame you!), then if you are careful > whilst reading the dialgauge you can get a reasonably practical > reading on cam lobe TDC just by watching the needle as the > cam rotates under it. Before I forget, you have to get some > sort of ferrous metal plate for the dialgauge to sit on > (most have a magnetic clamp), because Toyota only make alloy > heads. > > Other notes - You may have guessed it isn't an easy thing to > do. Don't try this at home without supervision! ;-) If you > aren't careful, then you stand a fair chance of bending a > valve (usually in multiple of two ...) > - Some cams are made a tad differently - they need 106 deg for > both cams. Check with the cam guy. Also insist that the lobes > are machined very accurately with respect to each other. It's > surprising common to have the lobes as much as 2 deg out (they > all have to be 90.0 deg apart.) > - Some cams have asymmetric lobes! You can't get cam lobe TDC > using the method I've described. Asy cams are quite rare > for twin cams, though. (A lot of the good Datsun/Nissan > cams for 'L' series are.) > > Bye now, > Billzilla. Grrrr. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 00:56:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Phillip Dang To: Richard Leong Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor Hi Richard, On Wed, 8 May 1996, Richard Leong wrote: > bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS > have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was > When I get a chance to fiddle with the air box, I was thinking about putting a large hole on the side of the air box, facing the brake booster, and running flexible piping from the hole down past the fuel filter. > thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of > mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery > is right smack in front of the airfilter. > I think that any sort of tube routed near the exhaust manifold shield would definitely be the same as sucking in warm engine air. Yeah, it would be nice if the batter was on the other side. > I'm also not too convinced that > the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is > effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways? > The plastic tube opens up behind the left front headlight. The other possibility would be to remove the front fender and substitute a larger tube for the current plastic tube. Speaking of freeing up restriction, I have doubts about the amount of flow the AFM allows. I don't know about the flap in the AFM. Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celica ST, 3S-FE, auto, 102K miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 08:02:34 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Chris Hilliard Subject: me/mine/mods Hey folks, I changed to a new server so I thought I would re-do my mods,etc. list so here it goes: Name: Chris Hilliard Location: Jackson,TN Make: Toyota Corolla TE-51 Liftback Engine: 2T-C 1588 cc Hemi Tranny: T-40 Mods: Weber DGAV 32/36 progressive carb Late 80's Toyota alloy rims Pirelli P-44 P185-70R-13 E-mail: tojo@aeneas.net This is my new e-mail address so remember it's still me when you see a post,etc. See ya later xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 08:04:13 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Intake on GTS *** Resending note of 05/09/96 07:58 I can't speak for the Celica GTS, but on the MKI MR2 (4AGE) you can remove the airbox entirely and replace it with a nice 5" cone filter. I've found with the header and HKS exhaust it has made quite a difference in my car's performance. I have details if you need them on how to do it. .............. Dave Aucott 1986 MR2 daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 07:29:50 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: FS: 5 '85 MR2 aluminum rims w/balanced tires, $185 + shipping The garage (literally) sale continues. The racing belts got a *great* response, so here's a real space saver for me - I want my garage back! 5 (full-sized spare anyone?) '85 MR2 rims, w/balanced tires. All tires are 185/60-14, all are balanced. Spare is a Pirelli, with 5k miles on it. Other 4 are Yokohama A-509s, with about 20k miles on them. Figure the A-509s are good for 60k normal street/highway driving. Use them for racing. Mount them on the car and beat the heck out of them. Get 5 rims/tires for less then 4 mounted tires. Just give me my garage space back! :-) $185 + shipping, so local buyers are greatly recommended. That's basically 1/2 off the salvage yard cost for the rim alone, and the tires are basically for free. Figure $7-$10/per for shipping at least, so if you aren't local make sure you aren't in California. :) Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 09 May 96 16:27:02 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol Cc: "Steve B." , Subject: Quality is NOT job #1 Well folks, As most of you remember me complaining about how I was without my car for about 5 1/2 weeks starting Feb 2 due to Tranny Re-build. Since I got the car back, it has seen the shop about 3 times for complaints under warranty to be fixed. Leaking oil, slight grinding etc.... Last evening I was looking at my car up on a lift and noticed something VERY disturbing. I had been hearing a slight noise from the trannyish location under the car since I got the car back but neither myself, or anyone else for that matter, could figure out what it was. They all told me I was just imagining it, or it was the linkage or something. SupraDave;) happened to notice that the motor mount bolts fot he front motor mount were MISSING!! Now that's the last straw!! My friggin engine could have ripped from the other mount and caused MAJOR damage! About a week ago when I replaced the knock sensor, I noticed that they had broken the bolt that holds the two braces that come together into a sort of 'Y' from the tranny to the suspension and from the clutch housing to the suspension. Since they didn't feel the need to drill out the old bolt and replace it, they just decided to tighten the other ends of the support bars and leave well enough alone. After an IRATE phone call this morning, the service mgr decided to let me bring the car in to the shop tomorrow and they will fix it. Anyone out there know of anything that I can do?? I think they should not only give me some money back ($2200 spent on rebuild) but I want to write to the better business bureau or something!! I'm REALLY PISSED! Anyways, I'm just letting off some steam. Thanks for listening. Later, Larry S. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Dan Jones Subject: W50 Transmission To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 09 May 1996 16:27:51 CDT Hi All, I've recently purchased a transmission that I believe to be a Toyota W50 5 speed. It has a cast iron case and an aluminum tail housing. This transmission is mounted to an all aluminum 1962 3.5L Buick V8 engine that was previously installed in a 1932 Ford street rod. I intend to put the Buick/Toyota drivetrain in my 1977 Triumph TR7. My question is does anyone know what the gear ratios are? I'm not on your list, so please email me directly at m203253@ws2200.mdc.com Thanks, Dan Jones, St.Louis, Missouri m203253@ws2200.mdc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Track day report... To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:38:25 +0300 (EET DST) Hi y'all, the Carina is not yet ready, injector capacity ends at just over 200hp, reaching stochiometric at 240hp. So I run it now at 203hp. Anyway, the races came and went, read on to know how... Thursday (again). I wasn't first about to go there at all, as the car was not ready and I had an oil leak from turbo oil drain hose. Well, Tero had gotten his exhaust fixed, but was leaking oil too. So what the hell, time to pick 2 liters of oil and head towards Ahvenisto... I had nothing differnent suspension-wise compared to last time, except that I had bumped up the front tyres to 44psi and left the rears at 37psi. Power was slightly upped from last time, now at 203hp from 5000 to 6000rpm, limited by fuel supply running a modest 13psi boost. Handling was the same as last time, with use of power the tighter corners went pretty well, though at the cost of rear tyre wear... Some of the higher-speed corners reminded me of the need for negative front camber - the dreaded understeer set in and could be only gotten momentarily rid of by lifting off the throttle, giving some mild oversteer for a moment as expected. So I ran 3 fast laps, 2 of them were relatively free of traffic, which brought results: 1:44.7 and 1:45.0. After that, brake fade set in, and I also noticed that the mixture seemed pretty lean under full power... the intercooler must have been working well or maybe I was getting air bubbles in the fuel (under half full tank). Probably both, as I had already on the way to Ahvenisto noticed rather lean mixtures on the highway - down to 870mV. On the track, at worst it was 750mV. No wonder it was heating up the coolant a bit, around 90-93C. Once I got to the pits, the oil pressure was down to 1 bar at idle because of the temperature. After a few km of driving, it was back to the normal 2 bar at idle. I'm glad I took the opportunity, 3.5s improvement isn't that bad for a modest ~10hp increase and no traffic problems, which I reckoned last time to have cost me maybe 2 seconds... The Volvo 244 turbo received the highest repair bill of the day. One spark plug disintegrated, the whole center electrode and insulator were gone. Marks on the #1 piston, and compression down at 3 bar (11 bar for the other ones). Can you say "detonation"? The BMW 535 didn't impress on the first few laps, in 1:54-1:56 neighborhood. Then he got serious, times started dropping and edges of the track getting closer... on one lap he went out of the track to the gravel, at approximately 145km/h, completely sideways but miraculously saved it and got back on the track (though didn't get it completely under control until about a hundred meters later). He did take the second fastest time after all. Plans still include ye olde bithcing about not enough negative camber in front, too soft springs and not enough power (to break the tyres loose at 120km/h ;). But this time I'm closer to attending to these. I promise you all 240hp before the end of next week, and the remaining 40hp by mid-summer ;) Springs, that depends on when the motoring club MIG is working again... next track day is in September, then all should have been ready for a long time - if I get the brakes done too, it may be time for a tour of all tracks in Finland. Results, as I remember them: 1. Carina GT-T 1:44.7 203hp 5000-6000rpm 2. BMW 535 1:46.2? 211hp, can't blame for not trying hard ;) 3. Alfa GTV 1:47.2 153hp, no air filters + slower ones: Skoda 130 Rapid 1:59.2 Kari drove... 1:58.2 ... and I did ;) Volvo 244 turbo - blew during warm-up laps VW Kupla (Bug) ? Opel Ascona ~1:56 Saab 90 ~1:59 Ford Taunus ? And for those who haven't read the yearly drag race (1/8 mile) results yet from my pages: # time speed driver vehicle [s] [km/h] 1 9.16 138 Kari Vdlimaa Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 2 9.77 125 Matti Kalalahti Toyota Carina GT-T TC Turbo (203hp) 3 10.0 112 Mika Virtanen Nissan 300ZX Turbo 4 10.1 121 Riku Kreula Pontiac Firebird timing by hand, includes reaction times... -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: Leaking supercharger To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 16:22:30 -0700 (PDT) Hi everyone, I just had my car taken in for a 60K tune up and the mechanic informed me that I had a slight oil leak from somewhere. I traced it to the supercharger and am wondering now if its just a bad seal on the unit that can be easily replaced, or if I need a new unit. If I do need a new unit, I've heard of aftermarket superchargers which provide more boost than the stock one, but I'm not sure who actually makes them for the MKI SC MR2s. Has anyone had similiar experiences? Any inputs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 (Leaking but still afloat) :-( xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 9 May 96 16:24:05 -0700 From: leslie@cadence.com (Leslie C. Fong) To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Blowing my horn, not my gasket! Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Supra Guys and Gals - I'm pleased to announce I've driven my Mark III, 1987 Supra turbo 300,000 kilometers! Or about 186,411 miles give or take. This isn't the longest lived 7M Supra I've heard of on the Net, but I think it's the longest lived one still actively with the Supra (& Mods) group. This is all original equipment minus the usual service/disposables, with these longer wear items having been replaced: power steering rack ($$$$) water pump (twice, once under warranty) thermostat radiator cap various hoses ($$$) center valve cover valve cover gaskets cam sensor gasket heater VSV cold start switch # cylinder head bolts # EGR valve and modulator # O2 sensor targa top bolt/nut wheel stud engine under cover n ignition cables n brake pads (once only, at 170,000 miles!) n shocks (HKS/TRD) n exhaust (HKS, twice!) notes: # = due to heater bypass blowing out (overheated) event n = I consider Normal long wear item (never "lifetime") Items soon to be replaced: clutch master - leaking ball joints - loose brake rotors - bad vibrations wheel bearings - noisy Notable items which have lasted EXCEPTIONALLY long: * original paint, except for plastic bumpers -> GONE! original engine, including head gasket, no rebuilds original turbocharger original transmission, including clutch! ** original leather wrapped steering wheel and upholstery original freon, needs recharge original fog lamps, some large nicks in unbroken lens notes: * many rock/debris chips & 2 parking XXXhole dings :(, looks fine except for those bumpers. ** some wear is evident (bolster), but still looks great! I won't reveal here additional pieces I've replaced/upgraded optionally, or involuntarily through mishap (e.g. heater bypass - #). You can guess or check out the Supra web entry. Only the steering rack wasn't replaced with "Genuine Toyota" parts or a "high performance" equivalent. Some of the longevity might be directly attributable to the fact she's (mildly) MODIFIED FOR PERFORMANCE, contrary to popular belief. You can have your cake... (If an engine makes more power than stock, you put less stress on it under "normal" driving conditions, right?) Thanks to the valuable information from this list and others, I'll probably take her up to 200,000 miles sometime next year; she'll be only 10 years young then! Leslie '87 Supra turbo, targa, 5sp, HKS EAC-T (TEMS), leather, ONLY 186.5K miles - that's 300,000 kilometers! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 9 May 96 20:16:10 EDT Subject: Re: Leaking supercharger History: Micky's got oil leaking from a seal on his supercharger I reply: This supercharger unit is fully serviceable. It's rebuildable. The MR2 service book provides excellent detail of the supercharger, and it's rebuilding, and it looks like a do-it-yourself job (if we had the space... if we had the time... if we had the tools... if we had another car... etc...). There's really not much to the supercharger. I suppose, if someone made one, you could install another supercharger that might give you more hp. I haven't done this myself, but in researching this, on the stock engine with all Toyota bits, the addition of a new pulley that turns the sc vanes faster, a header and different exhaust, and a couple of cams timed other than to factory spec (TRD seemed to have these numbers), would produce somewhere around, or upwards, of 200hp. Some folks I spoke with were claiming more from these modifications, but that would just be incremental, I think. 200hp, and all that sc torque, would move the Mk 1 SC MR2 along quite nicely, indeed. This certainly isn't a lot of work, or a huge out lay of money for the engine performance difference it provides. The SC motor is plenty strong, with its strengthened block, forged pistons, and stronger crank, and the Toyota-designed sc system is also quite reliable, though I have some small reservations about the robustness of the rest of the drivetrain at this hp. - Steven xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:12:48 +0000 Subject: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge I have a 93 MR2T. Starting about 2 weeks ago(time of an oil change??)I've had a problem on cold starts. The car hesitates when pressing the gas pedal-- I can punch it and it just pauses, then slowly rpms start hesitantly going up and the turbo suddenly kicks in, causing lunging forward. I have never experienced this kind of hesitation on cold acceleration before. However, whats really scaring me is that the turbo is spooling up in first gear and kicking in before rpms!! I can never recall much turbo boost in first gear when rpms were winding normally. The turbo kick at 2000 hesitant rpm seems weird- like the engine management system is mistakenly exchanging turbo power due to missing prerequesite basic rpm power. It led to my first fishtail today- Without even pushing hard, it hesitated at an intersection turn and then the turbo kicked in during hesitation and spun out he rear, Any ideas folks?? This car has always been predictable and I have never fishtailed before- even in hard cornering and accellerating. Anyone experience this phenomena? What gives (or is something about to give!!!) Gary Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!! MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 00:10:09 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: Toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 80 corolla struts Anyone care to comment on the feasability of replacing the stock struts with something better? Coil overs? (what are they, anyways? Help! No suspension knowledge beyond stock whatsoever...) Also, can anyone give me feedback on the feasability of mounting a turbo unit on my 3T-C? Specifically: -is the compression ratio OK, or does it need to be lowered? -are the stock components able to handle the load to about 10 lbs boost? -What other mods are neccessary to convert a N/A to a turbo? -would it be cheaper just to buy a 3T-GTE or perhaps just get the turbo unit from said engine? Thanks... Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu 80 Corolla SR-5 http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1/index.html "Physics 107 was a very thorough class. What wasn't covered in lecture showed up on the tests." /| / | / | / | /____| _______|___ _________\_________/___________ __ __ ____ ___ __ __ _ _____ __ _ ___ _ ____ ____ __ __ __ _ ____ ____ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:56:53 +0000 Subject: Re: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge > From: Self > To: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com, mr2-announce@validgh.com > Subject: cold start hesitation/turbo spool-up & lunge > Reply-to: gfriedmn@ipof.fla.net > Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 01:12:55 > I have a 93 MR2T. Starting about 2 weeks ago(time of an oil > change??)I've had a problem on cold starts. The car hesitates when > pressing the gas pedal-- I can punch it and it just pauses, then > slowly rpms start hesitantly going up and the turbo suddenly kicks > in, causing lunging forward. Snip, Snip..... I'm wasn't suggesting the oil change per se... But the car gets an overall check by my mechanic when oil is changed. Any minor "touches" or adjustments that could lead to this?? I'm mostly concerned about the turbo spooling so much in FIRST GEAR- before its up to rpms. Seems like it would stress the system as its so unusual. I'll be trying to remember slow warm ups til I can get it in for a check. Thanks for the feedback thus far. Thanks for "announce" David!!!! Green, . Yellow, .. Red, ... Green, Wheeeee!!!!!! MR2T, The Official Pace Car of The Information Superhighway xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 07:55:50 EDT From: "'G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)' daucott@e-mail.com" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tranny Swap - Update *** Resending note of 05/10/96 07:49 Hi everyone! I've started my project of switching my new MR2 from automatic to manual, and I took the auto trans out last night. Here are a few observations: This car was designed as a manual. Everything appears to be there for the installation of the manual goodies... coolant lines, mounting points, weld nuts, everything. Perhaps the most amazing to me was that even the WIRING is there!! Now, I don't know if ALL the points are there yet because I haven't completed the job, but even the backup light switch is there still attatched to the wiring harness with tear tape as from the factory. Neat! I just hope the clutch pedal switch is there too! It'll this sooooo easy. I also noticed that although this car had no cruise control, all the wiring is there for that too: the connectors in the engine compartment, the ECU plug and wiring, and I assume the column wiring is all there. Toyota must have decided it was better to have one wiring harness (or maybe two) that covered everything, and just give away the circuits on the cars that don't use them. Seems an expensive way to go if you ask me, but I"m not complaining!! :-) Further details forthcoming after I get the new trans and all the lines, linkages, etc. installed. Dave A. 1986 MR2s, green and silver daucott@e-mail.com .............. G. Dave Aucott 1998 FN145 Structures 32-39181 Internet: daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:20:38 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fmarsh@helix.nih.gov (Frederick Marsh) Subject: Early Diff/Tranny problems? I have what seems to be the beginning of a problem with my '85 Celica GTS. I am getting a jerky thing happening when I'm in gear. This usually happens when decelerating. It starts very slight and if I hold the throttle in between the point of coasting and pulling the car, it will start to buck. I never get the problem when accelerating, only right at coasting or decelerating. Also, I'm hearing a slight 'clunk' when I engage the clutch. I'm wondering if the problem is U-joints, or diff. fluid needing to be changed, or clutches in the diff. I don't know where to start. The bucking of the car is really starting to get on my nerves though. I have to wonder if my recent popping of the clutch down at the local car hangout has anything to do with this problem. BTW, any recommendation on diff. fluid? I will probably change that next week. Thanks for any suggestions. -frederick. '85 Celica GTS Convertible xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 10:06:58 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: clutch upgrade >From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter) >Subject: clutch upgrade > >I have an '89 MkI MR2, 4A-GE, bone stock. NOt for long... >I'm replacing my clutch after abusing it for 100,000mi. I want to replace >it with something that will be able to handle some planned performance >upgrades. I don't expect to go over 175hp. I want it to handle high speed >(+100) as well. >How about CV's and halfshafts? Trans and motor mounts? Fluids? I run >Mobil 1 now. >Tips and supplier suggestions would be appreciated. >Thanks > >Kelly Carter For fluids, have you tried Redline MTL for your tranny and their gear lubes? I myself haven't tried either but have heard that both do an excellent job and in some cases make shifting smoother. Check out the mr2 www page at http://mr2.com/. They have all sorts of useful information. Check out the Performance Upgrade Information page. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Redline "MTL" or other for '85 MR2? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 13:12:19 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Hi Everyone, Well, I'm going to start searching junkyards next week for a front end clip so that I can get started on my front end repair and get the car back on the road. I will also be changing all of the fluids since the car has been sitting since last August, and driven around the block about every two weeks. My question is regarding the manual transmission fluid. I noticed lately that there is debate about which Redline fluid to use. I remember back a few months when it was said that for the '85 MR2 gearbox, Redline MTL was the fluid choice, and I believe that this is what's in the FAQ. Is this the right one, or should I use a different Redline fluid? The car has 93,000 miles on it and still has the original gearbox. It has become slightly notchy in the past year, so I want to put in the best transmission fluid I can to make it last, along with the better shifting techniques I've learned about on this list. Thank you :) Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu PS, Is Valvoline the choice for engine oil, if you can't afford Mobil 1 ? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 12:18:31 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter) Subject: clutch upgrade I have an '89 MkI MR2, 4A-GE, bone stock. NOt for long... I'm replacing my clutch after abusing it for 100,000mi. I want to replace it with something that will be able to handle some planned performance upgrades. I don't expect to go over 175hp. I want it to handle high speed (+100) as well. How about CV's and halfshafts? Trans and motor mounts? Fluids? I run Mobil 1 now. Tips and supplier suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Kelly Carter A/V Technician College of Architecture Media Center Texas A&M University College Station, TX xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Scott, Dan" To: ToyMods Subject: RedLine MTL Date: Fri, 10 May 96 11:48:00 PDT Hi y'all: In my '88 Celica I used RedLine 75W90 (the weight that the manual requested) and the results were (are ) outstanding. I would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone with non-copper synchros in their tranny. If you have the copper, and I don't think any Toy trannys have 'em, then the oil is too slippery and you will get gear clash. I also use RedLine motor oil but I can't vouch for any results since you can't tell just by driving. Shifting with the new oil is very smooth and easy and I think it's great! Good luck Dan Scott '88 Celica 4WD Turbo 152000 Kms (95000 miles) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 14:24:27 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott! To: Toyota Mods List Subject: Hastings Oil Filters Hi, Does any know if these filters are any good? Thanks Toyota-gods and goddesses, Scott xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 10 May 96 14:39:58 EST From: "Changming Tony Chung" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Dear Sir: My email address is changming@ilx.com. I have a question about an internal oil burning question. I own an 86 1/2 Supra 7MGE, non turbo. My car is burning one quart of motor oil every 300 miles. I did a compress check of the engine before the engine is rebuilt. #1-#6 were about 170-180psi, except #4 was 105psi. I send the engine's head to rebuild. I believe the machine shop didn't change any value guide. They did change the value seals and resurface the values face. I changed the piston rings with the oem size, cam shaft and thrust bearings. After the rebuilt, I did a compression check and all the cylinder's compression are in the range fo 175 to 190 psi. I did a vacuum Check on the intake manifold at the connection of the cursie control module. It is pulling 17" of vacuum and the needle is steady. When the throttle is fully open, the needle jumps to zero and bounces up to 19" and returns to 17" of vacuum. I don't have the equipment to perform a leak test on the engine. After 4000 miles, the engine starts to burning oil again, one quart every 300 miles, on oil leaks. I am thinking to send the head of the engine to a machine shop to change all the value guides. The third possible source of internal oil burning is oil pushing or pulling through the pcv value or system. I check the pcv system according to the maintenance manual and didn't find any clod in the any passage. Can I get some expert opinion from you guys. Is there a turbo kit out there to convert a 7MGE to 7MGE-T engine. What are the inexpensive ways to increase you pickup speed and horsepower. Sincerely yours, Tony Chung xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 20:46:46 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Redline "MTL" or other for '85 MR2?Q In a message dated 96-05-10 13:19:58 EDT, you write: > My question is regarding the manual transmission fluid. I noticed >lately that there is debate about which Redline fluid to use. I remember >back a few months when it was said that for the '85 MR2 gearbox, Redline MTL >was the fluid choice, and I believe that this is what's in the FAQ. Is this >the right one, or should I use a different Redline fluid? The car has >93,000 miles on it and still has the original gearbox. It has become >slightly notchy in the past year, so I want to put in the best transmission >fluid I can to make it last, along with the better shifting techniques I've >learned about on this list. I just replaced my trans fluid with Castrol Syntec. I was at the mercy of the corner store and this was the best they had (late at night, only one open)... It was mighty expensive and it should be good stuff! Anyone have experience with it? My trans works as well as or better than before I put it in, and the mysterious noise I got before it went in is gone. Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Alec Dun To: "'toyota-mods@cyberauto.com'" Subject: me/mine/mods Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 23:24:16 -0700 Name : Alec Dun Location : Model : 1993 Supra Twin-Turbo Engine : 3GTZ? Mods : none so far email : alecdu@halcyon.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 13:09:38 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig A Terlau To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wheels Does anyone know of a source for Panasport wheels ar reasonable prices? I am looking for a set of 13 X 6 inch for Starlet (same as rear drive Corolla). Also, does anyone have a set of used 13 X 6 they would care to sell? ___ (o o) +-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+ | Craig | xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 15:16:30 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Chris Hilliard Hey folks, Have any of you made any fender flares for your car? I am trying to make some BMW "M" style box flares for my Corolla. The desired look would be SCCA pro rally like . With these I would want to be able to run 50 series tires and 15" rims. I have made a few prototypes that I just don't like (out of sheet metal) and have thought about possibly taking some dually truck fenders , cutting them down to about 5" and reshaping from there. I would also like to put my fuel filler tube into the fender with a door or a cool aftermarket something or other. Any thoughts on this? Naturally I would have to find some kind of front facia or ground effects. Anybody know of a source for that or a car that has the same width as my corolla so that I could go wrecking yard hunting? By the way, my car is a ' 77 Corolla Liftback TE-51. Any thoughts or discusions would be appreciated. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 09:12:55 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Cellular phone cradle bracket for '91MR2 Does anyone know if ProFit (*think* that's the company's name) makes a cellular phone cradle bracket for the '91 MR2 (the newer body style)? The local dealers aren't giving me very good customer servie (how about 'none'?), and I just want to know what the part number is, or if I could even order dircectly from them. For those who don't know, and care, ProFit makes a line of cradle brackets that don't need to be screwed into the dash, or attached using double-backed tape. You remove the radio trim, attach the bracket to the radio support, and then re-attach the radio trim (or some other applicable dash trim). That way you get a hidden attachment point, no drilling or screws, and it is (usually) very stable. Thanks for any info anyone can give me. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 11:04:11 -0700 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: david_agosti@mindlink.bc.ca (david agosti) Subject: buying a Mk1 MR2 Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi guys been lurking fer a while as i save up the money to buy a mk1. I do have a few questions that i hope u guys can answer tho. first of all which model year(s) had the "air intakes" on the sides of the car fer the mk1? (i think this look really sharp) second of all i can't really afford an s/c but, i was wondering if aside from the s/c was there any major difference between the 4age and 4agze? (ie stronger bottom end, etc.) lastly, what year do u guys consider the most bang for the buck? the mk1 na's go fer between 4k-8k up here in vancouver depending on the model year (85 and 86's are about the same prices go up about 1k a year after that) i guess before y'all can answer this u should know what i wanna do with the car. well, i do plan to auto-x it, but also... i plan to... RALLY RACE MY MR2!!!!!!! i will happily accept all the condemnation any nay-sayers may send me... but i know it can be a gr8 rally car :) toodles fer now david a. (the lurker... not the guy who posts all the time :) ================================== the three stages of man: tri-weekly, try-weekly, try-weakly ================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 12 May 96 20:04 CDT From: ikhifa@mailhost.accesscom.net (patrick ikhifa) Subject: 4A-GE Guys, I have followed the postings for a while hoping that someone with a similar problem will post first but as summer is upon us, I thought I'd better give a try. this is a problem I once posted before so please bear with me. Anyway I have a couple of questions; I own an '86 GT-S Corolla with 115,000 mi on it. It still runs very strong but will like to increase top speed as well as handling especially beyond 100 MPH. The other day on my way back from Houston, TX a brand new '96 Camry V6 LE blew by me at 100 plus MPH. I haave some conditions, I am afraid to go into the motor because I don't trust the mechanics here with an engine job. I have a K & N Filter on the car and a DYNOMAXX ULTRA FLOW cat back exhaust system. I am wondering if you have any suggestions for the next step in the upgrade? Some have suggested from the many posts that I have read that an ignitionn upgrade and a suspension ugrade are the next levels. I don't really know what upgrade products I shold go after and what types of benfits to expect. I have no intention of going to the track or thing of the sort. I simply want to be able to go fast with good handling. My second problem is a unique one which I once posted on the net with fair response but the problem continues of course I have contacted the local dealerships for advice as well. Here is my problem: At full to half tank, the car performs excellently on hte highway. From full tank and below, it ocassionaly looses power but does not kill. I pull over to the shouldr of the road the motor continues to idle at 800 RPM yet when I try to rev up it may or may not hestate depending on how long I remain standing. It them takes off as if nothing is wrong but will not allow me to go faster than 60 MPH without again loosing power. In city driving with a half tank of gas, I am fine and I can actually reach speeds in excess of 70 MPH without problems. Thus far, this is what I have done; replaced the fuel filter, gas cap, gasket around the filler neck, flushed the injectors, regularly use Red Line injector cleaner, and buy high octane gas, all to make sure that the fuel system remains clean. Mechanics have suggested that the problem may be in the fuel tank. They feel that the tank is holding the required fuel pressure but fails once the level drops below half at certain speeds. Others suspect that I need to repalce the tank screen because there mignt be a clog or folatsam that blocks the screen at the bottom of the tank at or below the half tank level. Still others suspect that there maybe a broken line or hose in the tank that allows in some kind of vacumn which the pump is not happy with, and finally all of the above. I hate to drop the tank without further narrowing in the problem. I don't expect them to pinpoint the problem first, but I would prefer a test of some sort to back up these diagnoses. Any suggestions? What gets me is that it seems to be a first time for all whom I have talked to. Can my problem be that unique? Thanks. Patrick, Troubled '86 GT-S Corolla xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 19:26:43 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: 4A-GE >From: ikhifa@mailhost.accesscom.net (patrick ikhifa) > >Anyway I have a couple of questions; I own an '86 GT-S Corolla with 115,000 >trust the mechanics here with an engine job. I have a K & N Filter on the >car and a DYNOMAXX ULTRA FLOW cat back exhaust system. I am wondering if you >have any suggestions for the next step in the upgrade? Some have suggested >from the many posts that I have read that an ignitionn upgrade and a >suspension ugrade are the next levels. The ignition upgrade would help things out, especially as you get farther along in your engine modifications. In the way of modifying the engine, I'd say that getter a set of headers would be the next best step to go with to increasing the mid-top end power. I know that J.C. Whitney has a header listed that would work for your car. Also give Chris Myer and the guys at Cyberspace Automotive Performance an email, they can help you out in finding a set of headers for you as well as ignition and suspension upgrades. For upgrading the suspension, I'd suggest going with some performance springs and shocks. This will increase your handling potential, especially at higher speeds. The guys at CAP can help you out it this department also! Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 23:40:15 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: Toyota MODS Subject: ME/MINE/MODS HI EVERYBODY!!! Name: Qui Hong Location: San Francisco, CA Model: 1988 White MR2 Engine: 4A-GE MODs: Super Turbo Muffler no cat, Akimoto In-take Future Mods: Repaint car pearl purple, TRD headers, Full suspension up-grade (maybe just some springs and sway bars) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: dbenoit@ccs.carleton.ca (Dan Benoit) Subject: Digest Format To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 13 May 96 9:03:07 EDT Hi, Does anyone know of a way that you can receive the postings to this list in a Digest format, instead of an Individual format? Thanks, Dan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Dan Benoit Carleton University THE CCS HELP DESK 401 Robertson Hall (AB 401) Phone: (613)520-3700 E-mail Address: dbenoit@ccs.carleton.ca ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 09:12:53 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Hastings Filters No Knowledge of Hastings but here are some comments of a mech. engineer that had torn a couple of filters apart. From his findings, he really liked the Wix the best. I do know that Wix use to make Amsoil oil filters under contract several years ago (Hastings actually makes them under contract now). I tore one of the Amsoil filters apart when they were made by Wix, and I must agree with Jeff about the Wix construction. I still use Amsoil filters (along with all of Amsoils synthetic procucts) but I think Amsoil filters were constructed like a brick shit house when they were made by Wix. Keep in mind no matter who makes their filters under contract, they are made to Amsoil Specs. For any other filters, if anyone want additional info, e-mail Jeff direct at JefffrmPA@aol.com, NOT ME. Steve FRAM is universally condemned for its paper endcaps, but I must admit that every one I've looked in has been assembled very well. The glueing is neat, and the used ones I took apart were still very intact after thousands of miles. There's no doubt in my mind that Wix is the best-made. It has thicker cans, more threads on the base than many; an impressive, rubber-sealed bypass valve; metal end-caps, along with neat glueing and a coiled spring that theoretically provides more consistent sealing inside the filter. The Wix 51515 for my Fords has at 334 in2 almost twice the surface area of the Fram PH8A (170 in2). Why, then, isn't Wix my universal choice? Well, I wasn't sure it had the best media. After all, the cleanliness of the oil re-entering the engine is my primary concern. There's lots of divergence of opinion over filtering finer particles versus dirt-holding capacity. Personally, I want the finest filtration possible, cuz the filter'll never get clogged on MY cars..... . My micrometer makes the FRAM media about 1.0mm thick, versus .7-.8mm for the Wix. Holding the two up to a strong light, the FRAM's appears a bit more opaque. However, a guy at Purolator / Motorcraft (also a really well-made filter, and rated at 20 um) tells me opacity and thickness relate more to capacity than efficiency (particle size). Fram's national claim is 96.2% single-pass efficiency on the SAE J806 test, and they claim it's better than 'any leading filter'. HOWEVER, the clincher may have come today when I called Baldwin in Nebraska over the lunch. Baldwin says OE filters are typically more open; that is, they don't filter the smallest possible particles, but this pays off in more capacity and longer life before the bypass opens - something of interest when designing for neglectful owners. Baldwin designs its own filters to match OE performance or nearly so. The guy was kind enough to provide me with this data from their own internal comparison tests: SAE J806, standrard abrasive dust in oil- Here's what the mfr's engineering departments told me for their nominal rating: FRAM WearGuard: 15um FRAM HighPerf: 25um Wix: 19um Purolator: 20um Baldwin: 25 um Amsoil: 15-20um Baldwin B2: 74.8% efficient, 24.3g capacity Motorcraft FL-1A: 69.3%, 33.7g FRAM Wear Guard PH8A(same as ones I examined): 81.3%, 10.0g Wix 51515 (they've only got one line sold as Wix. real plain looking but effective): 87.1%, 20.0g Note that there's lots of discrepancy about how these numbers are arrived at. They may well NOT be directly comparable. The Baldwin guy's the only one who gave me back-to-back data from a single test, and he had no qualms about his own product not coming out on top. No knowledge of other published filter tests, sorry. The CR test was 87, I think, and put FRAM on top but I know they didn't test Wix. I do know that Wix and FRAM both make bypass filters, but I've never seen em anywhere. I've asked for catalogs from both companies. That pretty much does it for me, and I can go back to real life and stop obsessing on oil filters . Nothing wrong with FRAM if you change it often enough, but the Wix looks a bit better on efficiency. That plus the inarguably better construction will have me buying white instead of orange.... It surprises me that with such numbers Wix / Napa Gold (same filter, Wix makes it for Napa resellers) isn't marketed more aggressively. I asked the guy at Wix about this, and he said they can't sell their filter for the $2.00 that the FRAM brings, and they won't take out the quality to do so. Hope this is food for thought - I'll be interested to hear your comments. Regards, Jeff xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 13 May 96 10:18:46 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: "Steve B." Cc: Geoff , Subject: Foul Play ;-) Hello all, I'll try to make this question a quick one, as opposed to the epic novels of the past. Since I blew my knock sensor a few weeks ago, I have been having a problem when I'm at WOT. Basically, I'm getting a nice quick boost buildup, then when I hit about 1 bar, I get a boost blurb, and then it starts pulling again, but I have not been able to run higher than 1 bar since then. This past Saturday, I went to the track again, and the problem was getting worse and worse. Finally the car kicked out a 14.1 then started to idle poorly with no ability to accelerate. I changed the wires, rotor and cap (again) but still a no go. I opened up the handy dandy manual the next day and sure enough, the first thing listed to check under the ignition system is the plugs. As fate would have it, the 4th cylinder plug was TERRIBLY fouled. Also, when I changed the wires for the first time since purchase, I noticed a small amount of oil buildup on the tip of the #4 wire. Anyways, I changed the plugs and all was well. The only fouled one was the #4. It was black as the ace of spades. What could be causing this? Dare I say a worn ring?? ;-((((( Any comments, please do write. Later Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:12:36 -0400 From: Gavin Vess To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: [Fwd: Welcome to toyota-mods] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------43EC29A8B99 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To all who wish to unsubscribe, Please do not clutter up my mailbox with mail messages asking to unsubscribe. I have included the original response from the list server. It contains instructions on how to unsubscibe. It also suggests SAVING a copy of this message should one wish to unsubscribe in the future. -- Gavin --------------43EC29A8B99 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 19:31:04 -0400 To: vess@verdi.iisd.sra.com From: Majordomo@CyberAuto.com Subject: Welcome to toyota-mods -- Welcome to the toyota-mods mailing list! If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, you can send mail to "Majordomo@CyberAuto.com" with the following command in the body of your email message: unsubscribe toyota-mods vess@verdi.sra.com Here's the general information for the list you've subscribed to, in case you don't already have it: Thank you for your request to be added to the toyota-mods mailing list. This is a relatively small list (about 50 people) who are heavily into Toyota performance modifications. We are not an elitist group, but we do like to limit our membership to those with either a strong working knowledge of performance and/or Toyota's, or those who have a strong desire to learn these subjects. Most members of the Toyota-mods list are also members of the regular Toyota list. To subscribe to that group, send: subscribe toyota-l YOUR_FIRST_AND_LAST_NAME to listproc@bgu.edu which is more appropriate for questions of an economic (price/reliability) or basic (bleeding brakes, troubleshooting alternators) nature. If you haven't done so already, send information describing yourself, your car, any modifications you have made, and any other comments to: To: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods *Please* include at least the following information: Name : Location : (city/country where you live or work) Model : (e.g. 1986 Celica GTS -- please be as specific as possible) Engine : (e.g. 3S-GE -- please be specific, several versions may exist) Mods : (e.g. added turbo, modified suspension, etc.) email : This information is your only requirement for joining the toyota-mods list. Failure to do so will terminate your subscription. Thanks for your cooperation! This list is dedicated to modifications to Toyota flavour vehicles, but NOT intended for pro-racers ONLY! We all try to maintain the philosophy that regardless of how trivial some information may be to some people, others may find it very useful. Hopefully, you will find this mentality prevalent on the list and won't witness anyone's ideas being bashed. *** For future reference *** After you are subscribed, please send "postings" to: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com Please send "requests" (i.e. subscriptions, unsubscribes, etc.) to: majordomo@cyberauto.com If you are not familiar with majordomo, just put "help" (no quotes) in the body of the email and you will receive instructions. ALSO: Check out our Web Server at http://cyberauto.com/toyota-mods/ **************************** While we do not currently have a FAQ available, it is _highly_ recommended that you use the majordomo "get" command and get the following files: toyota-mods suppliers.txt A list of preferred suppliers of parts and books. toyota-mods users.txt A list of the other toyota-mods members and their autos, including any mods they have done. Additionally, you may want to "get" and review some of the backposts available. Send a index toyota-mods to majordomo@cyberauto.com to see which backposts are available. Again, welcome to the list, and we look forward to your contributions! --------------43EC29A8B99-- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:25:19 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: Toyota MODS Subject: Akimoto In-take Well, actually it is just a cone filter which I attach to the MAF sensor. You know how my air filter is in the trunk? Well, when I went to my local speed shop and ask what kind of in-take would be best for my car they said to take out the air filter box in the trunk and get an adaptor and connect the Akimoto filter on it. Well I thought about it, and figure that means that my engine will be sucking air from my trunk (which I figure has no air beside that little tube that runs all the way around it and connects to the vent on the other side of the car). To re-asure me he told me that he has done this for a couple of supercharge Mr2's and the owners said it work great. Blah,Blah (probably didn't want anyone to know that they just get ript-off). Well I decided to buy the filter anyway and find another way to install it. Well, I was on the Mr2 web page and found that great article on how to install air filter in the Mk1's. So I just followed the instruction and took out (all that unnessary) air in-take stuff and mounted the filter in the trunk. I added a air scoop so the filter would get more air. Well, It works great now. I get a little louder roar and a few more horses (hopeful). Qui xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:25:06 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: MR2 Digest , Subject: MK1 Headers I just called TRD and ask for price of headers for my 88 MR2 and they quoted me $349.95. After I called Select Sales and they quoted my only $269.95. What a differents!!! Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think? Also if anyone has some advise on how to install it, please inform. Thanks. QUI HONG quihong@orion.sfsu.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: brian.lofthouse@actc.ab.ca Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:28:42 -0600 (MDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Brett Fraser's GT4 wish-list I've been reading the toymod's archives, and saw Brett's "seeya" message where he asked about Celica 4wds. Just thought I'd mention that here in Calgary, I see 88 Turbo alltracks asking $9k - $13k. (the $13k was loaded with leather int)They arent real common, but only $2-4k more than na GTS Celica... (CDN$) Does anybody know if the 4AGZE? will fit in a Corolla GTS RWD? Same trans, etc? I was whining to Chris a while ago about the lack of low end, and that would be one way to get lots... (I'm watching for an SC MR2, very scarce, but lots of NAs for sale) Brian Lofthouse (PS, how would you feel about lots of snow in May...more whining) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:00:54 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: Dan Benoit Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Digest Format On Mon, 13 May 1996, Dan Benoit wrote: > Does anyone know of a way that you can receive the postings to this list > in a Digest format, instead of an Individual format? Gad, I keep saying I will set this up (have done for a number of months now) but never seem to have the time :( Keep badgering and I will get around to it RSN (Oh. yeah, sure I hear everyone say....) Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 16:09:51 -0700 (PDT) From: An-Hong Chien To: QUI HONG Cc: Toyota MODS Subject: Re: Akimoto In-take hey qui...just had some questions about the air intake. where did u get the info off the web? also did u have to reset the air intake meter? why did u use a aki instead of a k&n? thanks in advance dave On Mon, 13 May 1996, QUI HONG wrote: > > Well, actually it is just a cone filter which I attach to the MAF sensor. > You know how my air filter is in the trunk? Well, when I went to my local > speed shop and ask what kind of in-take would be best for my car they > said to take out the air filter box in the trunk and get an adaptor and > connect the Akimoto filter on it. Well I thought about it, and figure > that means that my engine will be sucking air from my trunk (which I > figure has no air beside that little tube that runs all the way around > it and connects to the vent on the other side of the car). To re-asure me > he told me that he has done this for a couple of supercharge Mr2's and > the owners said it work great. Blah,Blah (probably didn't want anyone to > know that they just get ript-off). Well I decided to buy the > filter anyway and find another way to install it. Well, I was on the Mr2 > web page and found that great article on how to install air filter in the > Mk1's. So I just followed the instruction and took out (all that unnessary) > air in-take stuff and mounted the filter in the trunk. I added a air > scoop so the filter would get more air. Well, It works great now. I get a > little louder roar and a few more horses (hopeful). > > Qui > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:28:06 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: An-Hong Chien Cc: Toyota MODS Subject: Re: Akimoto In-take Well, to tell you the truth..I don't know why I picked the Akimoto over the K&N!!! Actually I bought a K&N filter, the one that fits into the stock air-filter box, but decided not to use it. By the way I'm selling it for $45, if anyone is interested. Still brand new, never been use in the box. Just email me about it. Back to the subject. The Akimoto is uses more by people around here...when i hear K&N...I think American cars! What the hell is the AIR INTAKE METER???? I unhook my battery for about an hour when I intalled it....will that do it. I got the info from "http://www.mr2.com". Look around in there, if you haven't already, lots of neat stuff on mr2's. On Mon, 13 May 1996, An-Hong Chien wrote: > hey qui...just had some questions about the air intake. where did u get > the info off the web? also did u have to reset the air intake meter? why > did u use a aki instead of a k&n? thanks in advance > dave > > On Mon, 13 May 1996, QUI HONG wrote: > > > > > Well, actually it is just a cone filter which I attach to the MAF sensor. > > You know how my air filter is in the trunk? Well, when I went to my local > > speed shop and ask what kind of in-take would be best for my car they > > said to take out the air filter box in the trunk and get an adaptor and > > connect the Akimoto filter on it. Well I thought about it, and figure > > that means that my engine will be sucking air from my trunk (which I > > figure has no air beside that little tube that runs all the way around > > it and connects to the vent on the other side of the car). To re-asure me > > he told me that he has done this for a couple of supercharge Mr2's and > > the owners said it work great. Blah,Blah (probably didn't want anyone to > > know that they just get ript-off). Well I decided to buy the > > filter anyway and find another way to install it. Well, I was on the Mr2 > > web page and found that great article on how to install air filter in the > > Mk1's. So I just followed the instruction and took out (all that unnessary) > > air in-take stuff and mounted the filter in the trunk. I added a air > > scoop so the filter would get more air. Well, It works great now. I get a > > little louder roar and a few more horses (hopeful). > > > > Qui > > > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: Tire pressure again To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (toyota mods) Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 18:01:48 -0700 (PDT) I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure... Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi). I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of the tread. With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a "bouncy" feeling. This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is he right? This would explain the differences between what I have experienced and what everyone else on the list believes. Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 11:28:32 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: MK1 Headers From Qui Hong >Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He >told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers >to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me >engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think? > There was quite a bit of talk over this subject some months ago. The best advice that I can give is to (believe it or not) leave the original exhaust manifold in place - it will work overall much better than any aftermarket 'header' (extractor in Australia) system. The reason being is this - the hotter the exhaust gasses, the higher the speed they will travel, so with the original Toyota cast-iron device (nice thick walls) you will keep quite a lot of heat in. With the thin wall extractors, they dump heat VERY efficiently (through the skin of the metal tubes), so to make then work their best you must cover then with the exhaust bandage system. The other reason for this on EFI enfines is so that the oxygen sensor does not cool down too much at idle. (Which it will with bare-metal extractors) The other reason is that in most cases, the aftermarket extractors claim a (say) 5hp increase. They may in fact do that, but _only at certain rpms_, so in practice you will probably LOSE power at other points in the rev range. (usually down low) Based upon these two things, I'd have to say that for road use it would be wiser to spend your money on more productive things, eg suspension, etc. Bill S. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 23:50:09 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MK1 Headers In a message dated 96-05-13 21:43:34 EDT, you write: >There was quite a bit of talk over this subject some months ago. The best >advice that I can give is to (believe it or not) leave the original exhaust >manifold in place - it will work overall much better than any aftermarket >'header' (extractor in Australia) system. At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine, then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over stock. Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Tire pressure again To: micky@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (MICKY THUTIYAKUL) Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 00:37:53 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure... > Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire > pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi). > I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and > he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at > slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher > velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the > mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of > the tread. With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a > "bouncy" feeling. This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is > he right? This would explain the differences between what I have > experienced and what everyone else on the list believes. > > Later, > Micky > '89 SC MR2 > Micky, He's right. It all has to do with the driving conditions (speed and how much you heat the tires up), and of course what kind of tire. That's why the best way to optimize your contact patch is to do that temperature test with the needle. You want to get the most tread on the ground. If you go too high in pressure, the tire will be like a doughnut and the outer edges will not contact the road as much as the center, just like your friend mentioned. If you go too low in pressure, the center of the tread will not contact the road as much and the outer edges of the tire will show a higher temperature reading then the center. It's all relative. There is no magic number. This 45 psi number is just an estimate for street tires as to the limit where they start to "doughnut". Happy Roadholding :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Header Coating..I know, again! To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 00:53:32 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu I'm considering having my TRD header coated by Jet Hot. Anyone know how well this works at keeping underhood temps low? I'm concluding that the coating will keep the heat in the headers where it works best and the lower engine compartment temps will give me a cooler intake. This sounds like it will make a noticeable difference in seat of the pants feel, judging by how much peppier the car felt during the cooler months. They've told me it will cost $145 to do it. Does this sound reasonable? Or is there a similar place with similar quality that will do it for less? Thanks for any advice :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: '85 MR2 front end or car wanted To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 01:00:50 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Guys and Gals, If anyone in the Upper Eastern US comes across an '85 MR2 front end in good condition or even an entire car, please email me as I would like to start my front end repairs soon. For the front end only, I'm willing to spend $800 with a max of $1000. For an entire car with a good front end, I'm willing to spend up to about $1300. I'm in lower NY (about an hour north of the city and would be willing to drive about 3 hours to look at a good front end clip. Any and All help is appreciated :) Aly '85 MR2 Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 17:41:57 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: MK1 Headers Hi there, D Aucott said - >At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I >installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine, >then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza >exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then >installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light >flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out >on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and >the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in >conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over >stock. > No debate neccesary - what you have said is basically in agreement with what I said. (You must read what I wrote a bit more carefully though! :) I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing, I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard engine at low revs. :) I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel - they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up 0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length! The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: MK1 Headers To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 06:27:49 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Well, > I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any > real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the > manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than > any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2 > sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor > and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust > and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard > exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated > sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for > the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant > change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power > gain is. > > I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard > one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They > are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a > car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding > and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money? > Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?) > Well, does ceramic coating which is supposed to keep the heat in the header keep the O2 sensor from cooling down too much? And how does the car act differently when it's running a little too rich? You can't tell me that during the winter months with the stock manifold that the O2 sensor doesn't cool down at idle as you've mentioned that it does with a header. If it does, the car felt INCREDIBLE in the winter. Thanks, Aly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:00:21 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Headers >I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power >than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas >of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing, >I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and >therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard >engine at low revs. :) I disagree. The "drag racing" we did was from a rolling start of 2000 rpm for the sole purpose of checking low end power and taking the driver skill out of it. I also have a superior clutch to Chris now so an offline start would be unfair -- I could drop it at 4500 and keep it there, he'd just burn the crap out of the POS stock clutch... Anyway, if I did see any low end losses (which I still debate) I solved it by disconnecting the EGR. I have more power now in all areas, and it's wonderful on the autocross track where I never even get to the 4200 rpm TVIS mark. Believe me, it breathes better now! I'm not saying the stock manifold isn't good, but it does weigh alot more, and we did see some gains. I don't think it'd do much good by itself without an intake or exhaust change, just as I didn't see much change by just doing the intake, but together it makes a difference, IMHO. Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:51:20 EDT Subject: Re: Headers Hi all, The subject of headers has once again arisen and I can say that many do not really understand what it does for the motor. There are three types of exhaust manifold. The first type is the stock manifold which gives excellent all-round performance with no flat spots and a smooth powerband. The second type is the Tri-Y design or 4-2-1 which is supposed to give an increase in mid- range and top end power over the stock manifold. The third type is the 4-1 and this type is supposed to give a greater increase in top end power with a weak bottom and mid range. The header is also supposed to enhance any modifications to the motor in conjunction with a free flowing exhaust. Correct me if I'm wrong. gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 22:56:16 +1000 (EST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Scott Subject: Gear Ratios Anybody know what the gear ratios are for a standard late model T50 (as comes behind a 4A-GE in a Corolla GTS)? What about close ratio gearsets available for this box? Dr. Scotch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 14 May 96 8:59:18 Subject: Re: Tire pressure again On the "Nascar Racing" pc-game from Papyrus Software, there's a portion in the game where you can set tire pressures.... and according to the technical manual that came with the software, the best way to set tire pressures is to check tire temperatures -- on the center portion and in the outer edges of the each tire. Check the temperatures after doing several hot laps on the track. Its interesting to note that tire pressure on one particular track may not work well on another track. If its hotter in the inside, then decrease pressure. If its hotter on the outside, increase presssure. Makes sense. I only race simulators, but I'm willing to believe that that's how it is in the real world. John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: micky @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com (micky thutiyakul) @ internet cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet (bcc: John Limcangco) From: abulkh34 @ matrix.newpaltz.edu (aly abulkheir) @ internet Date: 05/14/96 12:37 AM Subject: Re: Tire pressure again ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ > > I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure... > Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire > pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi). Micky, He's right. It all has to do with the driving conditions (speed and how much you heat the tires up), and of course what kind of tire. That's why the best way to optimize your contact patch is to do that temperature test with the needle. You want to get the most tread on the ground. If you go too high in pressure, the tire will be like a doughnut and the outer edges will not contact the road as much as the center, just like your friend mentioned. If you go too low in pressure, the center of the tread will not contact the road as much and the outer edges of the tire will show a higher temperature reading then the center. It's all relative. There is no magic number. This 45 psi number is just an estimate for street tires as to the limit where they start to "doughnut". Happy Roadholding :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 07:16:39 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: QUI HONG Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MK1 Headers QUI HONG wrote: > > I just called TRD and ask for price of headers for my 88 MR2 and they > quoted me $349.95. After I called Select Sales and they quoted my only > $269.95. What a differents!!! > > Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He > told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers > to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me > engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think? > > Also if anyone has some advise on how to install it, please inform. > Thanks. > > QUI HONG > quihong@orion.sfsu.edu wrapping exhaust headers does have several advantages like keeping the engine bay cool and keeping the exhaust charge heat within the exhaust to help in keeping up the velocity of the hot gases. Unfortunately, that salesman is right. Unless the headers are made of stainless steel, they will crack when wrapped. BTW, TRD sells Doug Thorley headers under their badge. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 07:39:26 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: Gregory Chan Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Headers Gregory Chan wrote: > > Hi all, > The subject of headers has once again arisen and I can say > that many do not really understand what it does for the motor. > There are three types of exhaust manifold. The first type is the > stock manifold which gives excellent all-round performance with > no flat spots and a smooth powerband. The second type is the > Tri-Y design or 4-2-1 which is supposed to give an increase in mid- > range and top end power over the stock manifold. The third type is > the 4-1 and this type is supposed to give a greater increase in top > end power with a weak bottom and mid range. The header is also > supposed to enhance any modifications to the motor in conjunction > with a free flowing exhaust. > > Correct me if I'm wrong. > > gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca I totally agree. A headers main purpose is to increase the scavenging affect of each cylinder. This may show a little or a lot of improvement based on the modifications already done to the engine. I believe everyone here is right in their own way. If someone has a somewhat stock motor then installs a header, gains are there, but minimal (stock cams have very little intake to exhaust overlap). Now if someone with high compression pistons and long duration cams comes around and bolts on these same headers, the gains will be tremendous. Do headers increase power? Yes they do, better for some applications. And yes, there are compromises. An example is the 4 into 1 style header. These are the types usually used for fully built race motors. While they give superior exhaust scavenging in the higher rpm ranges, they decrease gas velocity midrange and below, making that engine unstreetable. I been reading many of you autocrossers favor stock manifolds. I'm guessing this is due to the fact that you need a very broad torque band. For drag racers, where the rpms stay at or near redline 90% of the time, headers do improve ETs. Bottom line.... different types of racing, different ways of tuning the engine. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Snaking ! Date: Tue, 14 May 96 07:49:49 PDT Hi mod-bods, I am starting to get a problem with the car, on acceleration especially, snaking (on country roads mainly). Is this due to the anti-sway bars being worn or are they for something completely different ? Please help it's starting to feel a bit dangerous when overtaking. thanks Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 101000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 07:54:52 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: Bill Sherwood Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MK1 Headers Bill Sherwood wrote: > > Hi there, > D Aucott said - > >At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I > >installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine, > >then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza > >exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then > >installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light > >flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out > >on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and > >the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in > >conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over > >stock. > > > No debate neccesary - what you have said is basically in agreement with what > I said. (You must read what I wrote a bit more carefully though! :) > I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power > than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas > of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing, > I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and > therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard > engine at low revs. :) > I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel - > they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you > actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a > guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up > 0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length! > > The B Man. wow..... half a second with just a lightened flywheel. Sounds too hard to believe. Maybe on a 'stock' vehicle. But the faster you go in the quarter mile, the horsepower needed to lower your ETs multiplies. And I don't think just a flywheel will give that much free horsepower. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 14 May 96 11:31:50 EDT Subject: Re: Header Coating..I know, again! I like the idea of these ceramic coatings. I don't know what the numbers are, and I suspect it's something that's a fair way down the engine tuning checklist, but we sent most of the exhaust system of my little brother's SCCA GT Scirocco out to Jet-Hot just to give it a try. The results are very good. Looks good, tough, say about as tough as an epoxy or powder coat finish, and does decrease external temps. How much, I don't know. One of the nice things about the ceramic coating is that it coats internal and external surfaces. So the steel exhaust parts are insulated from heat from the inside, and of course, moisture can never touch the steel, and even the steel is effectively insulated from heat. We expect these exhaust parts will last just about indefinitely. Bill S's point is well taken, but in this case, hey, try wrapping ceramic coated exhaust bits in header wrap. Two of the biggest problems with header wrap on mild steel is that the mild steel gets excessively hot and breaks down, and also rain-soaked header wrap water can expose the steel to moisture longer than unwrapped pipes. Well, each condtion is mitigated in the case of a ceramic-coated header--the steel is insulated from heat from the inside of the tube, mitigating condition number one, and the outside surface of the tubing protected from moisture by the ceramic coating. A combo of ceramic and header wrap should satisfy Bill's temperature containment concerns. - Steven xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:36:02 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Taping Headers > Well I ask the saleman what does he think about termal wrapping them? He > told me that he doesn't recommend it because it might cause the headers > to crack!! But someone suggest I should, because it keeps the temp in me > engine compartment down and it also increase flow. Well, What do you think? > The salesman is right. However DT headers are 14 guage, not 16 guage like many out there. DT will make stainless, if you have the money. The wrap that is put on the headers breaks down over a SMALL period of time and allows moisture (through condensation) to be trapped in the wrap, this also aids in premature corrision of the headers, and does absolutly nothing for the inside of the header, which will also rust and corrode. I had Jett Hot send me information on there coatings and it really looks like the way to go. The header is coated inside and out, if Jett Hot coats a new header, they will give you a lifetime warranty against rust. If the coating ever chips, they say to send it back and they will re-coat it. In their information packet, included was a video where a guy took a ball pin hammer and beat on a header that had been coated, didn't dammage the coating at all. They even tell you if you are not satisfied with the coating, return the headers and they will remove the coating, return the header and give you a full refund. Can't speak for the MR2's here and about the MR2 stock manifold, but on my 4-runner (I seem to be the only one in this group with a 4-runner) headers are tuned for a particular rpm band by the diamenter of the tube and the length of the tube. It is easy for a manufacture to design the header for low end or top end performance, on a dyno they really work, by the seat of the pants dyno, its just hard to judge how well. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 11:49:57 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Re: Tire pressure again Lots of talk about how to set the right tire presure. Racers always look at tire temps as a diagnostic for setting pressure and other suspension settings. Also look at how far around the shoulder of the tire thescuff marks are. Better yet, put a white mark across the shoulder and see how far it rubs off. But with any discussion of tires, remember that every tire brand and tire size will behave differently. The only way to optimize a tire for a particular set of conditions is to test it in those conditions. For example, among the autocrossing crowd, BFG R1s have been very popular, but the new Hoosier radial that just came out seems very competitive, maybe even faster. However, the BFG's typically work best at around 30 psi (depending on car weight, etc obviously) but the Hoosiers will self destruct at that pressure, and require something more like 40+ psi. Experience with street tires on autocross tracks, however, shows that at less than 40 psi almost any street tire will fold over and scuff the sidewall at maximum load. Mild street driving at the high pressures would wear out the middle of the tread and risk damaging the tires if temps got too high. The GENERAL rule about adjusting oversteer/understeer is that reducing the pressure in the rears allows them to flex more, which allows increased slip angles at the rear, decreasing understeer. Higher pressures in the front decrease the tires' flexing and consequently sharpens steering feel and response. Its also GENERALLY true that a tire's grip will decrease more slowly as you raise the pressure above the optimum pressure than for lowering the pressure below it. So you're usually better off erring on the side of more pressure. But as I said before, the best setup for your particular car with your particular suspension on your particular tires under your particular conditions may vary widely, so I won't present any pressure numbers (though I don't exceed the max pressure onthe sidewall for street driving- I prefer to save the all-out on-the-edge driving for the racecourse). Check wear patterns and temp profiles and handling feel and decide what you like best. Happy driving! Michael Leary Ithaca NY 1987 Corolla GT-S (E Stock) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 13:51:24 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Headers Gerald writes: **************************************************************************** I believe everyone here is right in their own way. If someone has a somewhat stock motor then installs a header, gains are there, but minimal (stock cams have very little intake to exhaust overlap). Now if someone with high compression pistons and long duration cams comes around and bolts on these same headers, the gains will be tremendous. **************************************************************************** I think we're all losing sight of another factor - the gains realized by getting a header depend largely on the stock setup. For example, my 1986 CRX Si had a TERRIBLE header from the factory - very abrupt curves, poor flow. Just installing a 4-1 Jackson Racing header gave me HUGE gains (with a Bassani tailpipe) across the entire rev range, with a big hit at 4500 RPM. After adding the Jackson Racing camshaft for the car (supplied by Web Cam) the power hit moved from about 4500 to 3500rpm. For that car, just adding a header is a very good way to gain power. However, the 4-2-1 design on the MR2 4AGE is already very good. I gained very little by installing the TRD header (with my Monza tailpipe) on my MR2. Hopefully I will get more gain when I install my HKS 272 cams. Had I known the stock 4AGE header was so good, I'd have saved my money until I also got the camshafts. Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: William Martin Subject: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 13:16:31 I imagine that the following question has been posed to this list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically, please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!" I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6 in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:38:09 -0600 From: Brian Lofthouse To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Tire Help You mentioned your friend was in Korea? I believe there was a racing series in Canada (don't know about US) sponsored by Hankook, using Z2000 racing tires. I think Hankook is Korean... I have no experience with these tires, but the brochure shows them as having a shallow asymetrical tread, with a treadwear of 60. Maybe these are real cheap in Korea, mebbe not. Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:17:28 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup >From: William Martin >I imagine that the following question has been posed to this >list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically, >please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota >pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't >burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe >a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!" >I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6 >in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my >pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the >engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop >up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill An engine swap like this one is likely to be very difficult. A better idea would be to modify your current engine. Does your truck have the 22R engine? If so, Downey (I'm not sure of how to contact them, I'm sure some other Toy-modders know) makes a multitude of performance parts to upgrade that engine. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 15:34:21 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: Headers and Tape and JetHot All this talk about headers: >I had Jett Hot send me information on there coatings and it really looks >like the way to go. The header is coated inside and out, if Jett Hot >coats a new header, they will give you a lifetime warranty against rust. I modified my intake with a 7" conical filter, straightened the intake plumbing (see Dave's FAQ on the MR2 homepage), eliminated the cat, added a Jacobs ignition box and coil, and added a 4mm overbored throttle body *before* I installed the TRD header. The header, FWIW, is JetHot coated inside and out. The performance increase can't be quantitatively measured because I didn't do any 40-70 times or 1/4s, but I can say the throttle response is far, far better than before. There is no cool O2 sensor induced richness, in fact, the sensor is about 18" closer to the exhaust port than on the factory iron manifold, necessitating the extension of the sensor wire on later MK1 MR2s. My OEM sensor is a four wire heated job anyway. Lastly, you will need a different EGR tube on later MK1 MR2s. I fabricated one to fit. My observations: The TVIS 'hit' is very gradual as opposed to rather abrupt. The car actually pulls well from 3500rpm up to the rev limiter. Noise is the problem. I had to make a new exhaust to quiet the thing down. I had a Supertrapp (REALLY LOUD), switched to a Pacesetter Monza (like Chris B.) that I got off a wreck (still too loud), and finally made a 2.25" mandrel bent system with a Dynomax muffler. Ahh...quiet. The JetHot coating is pretty neat, as radiated heat from the header is perhaps no worse than the factory manifold with the heat shields in place. My thermometer (zip tied to my AFM) indicates the underhood temp about 10 degrees less than before with comparable ambient temperatures. I'm putting in a set of 250cc injectors now (right now), as the a/f mixture is a little lean in higher rpms, and I have a set of special ground prototype cams that I will be testing this weekend that offer higher lift and longer duration. IMHO, the header does make quite a bit of difference in power with the previous mods made first. Also, IMHO, the flex pipe in the lower manifold is the primary point of restriction. Next, the stock cat flanges are only 1.75". And the factory muffler is no prize either, although it is quiet. A header blowing through the stock cat isn't going to do as good as it could otherwise. Dave Aucott - let us know how your 'testpipe' works. Later, ------------------------------------------------------------- Bruce Crawford...............crawford@planet.earthcom.net '89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 ITA (Still not done) '83 RX-7 GSL ------------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota mods From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 14 May 96 16:53:14 EDT Subject: Re: Tire pressure again In search of the perfect tire pressure, Micky writes: >I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure... >Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire >pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi). Increasing tire pressure over the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure usually does increase grip. Simply increasing tire pressure as a rule to increase grip doesn't work out. There many variables leading to proper tire pressure--cornering loads, suspension geometry, tire design, vehicle weight, surface and air temperatures, etc. Formula One cars don't run more than 20 psi in their tires, and, of course, they inflate the tires with nitrogen. On my Lotus Elan and on Lotus/Caterham Sevens that friends own tire pressure can also be as low as just over 20 psi. I run 32 psi front and rear with the Yokohama A-008 RS's on my TVR 2500M; for BFG R1's on the same car, I run slightly lower tire pressures. Simply, you want enough pressure in your tires to provide support to the tire carcass so that the deflection of the tire carcass under maximum cornering load/maximum carcass deflection maintains a tire shape that allows the largest contact area between the tire tread cap and the road surface. When you don't have a pyrometer, there's an easy way to get an idea of correct tire pressure for a given vehicle and setup. It's the old white shoe polish or chalk trick. Mark the tire where the tread cap meets the sidewall. Just take the shoe polish dauber and put a nice mark of polish there. Run a run, or two. Look at how much of the polish, or chalk, got scrubbed off. If the polish is gone, and scrub marks are down the sidewall, you need to increase inflation pressure. If none of the polish is scrubbed off, and there's no sign of scrubbing close to the edge of the tread cap, you need to reduce inflation pressure. Many tires, also, have small triangles molded into them at the edge of the tread cap. A rule is that these triangles should be scrubbed in half at correct tire pressure. Basically, if your tire is overinflated, the shape of the tread will be convex relative to the road, and you'll be riding on less than the full tread width all the time. If the tire is underinflated, in cornering you'll be rolling over onto the tire sidewalls, and cornering on the sidewalls isn't the most useful thing if you're looking for maximum grip. If you've got a pyrometer, just take temperature measures at the inside and outside edges, and the center of the tire. These numbers should not vary widely from one another. A pyrometer can also help with assessing proper chassis settings, too. Things can get a bit more complicated quickly. If you've got your tire pressures seemingly under control, and you're still getting excessive understeer, say. This is something a pyrometer would have indicated by a cool inside edge relative to the outside edge. So what do you do? Well, there're a number of things to try. You can increase negative camber at the front. Many road cars don't provide large camber adjustments, so you can install camber plates to provide this range of adjustment. Or you can decrease the front roll stiffness relative to the rear of the car--make the front springs, shocks or anti-roll bar less stiff relative to the rear of the car, or make the rear springs, shocks, or anti-roll bar stiffer at the rear of the car. This is saying the same thing. There're other issues to be concerned about when considering changes, but a discussion of this is somewhat beyond just tire pressures. In the stock autocross classes where modifications are limited, and understeer can't be solved with solutions that allow the car to remain in a stock class, some folks overinflate the rear tires to reduce grip there, or use a left-foot breaking technique. >I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and >he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at >slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher >velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of >the tread. Yes, this phenomena does occur, but is moot for most of us mortals. This dimension change isn't a particular concern of road racers when sorting out a chassis. >With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a >"bouncy" feeling. Sounds simply like overinflation. If you inflate a tire above a manufacturer's recommended pressure, sure, the vehicle's ride quality will change, the ride will get firmer. >This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is >he right? This would explain the differences between what I have >experienced and what everyone else on the list believes. The issue with increased sidewall height is rather straightforward. It's simply a spring that's difficult to control, and introduced undesirable effects on cornering performance across a number of dimensions. Making the sidewall stiffer reduces the effects. For folks who aren't so worried about performance or keen handling, higher sidewalls mean a softer ride, and even more protection for expensive alloy wheels on public roads. Hope that helps, - Steven xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Tue, 14 May 96 15:05:10 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup Dave Why do you think it would be difficult? Do you have first hand experience? Wasn't the 22R engine used in the same style truck as the v6? Bill I don't think it would be a cheap swap because of limited availability of this engine. You would also probably need to change the transmission and get all of the electronics. If you are looking for a little more power (like 10-30HP) rebuild the 22R with some mods. If you want more than that, look into a swap. Get more cubic inches. I think there are conversion kits to put a v8 chevy engine into 4X4 toys. I don't know if it would work for two wheel drive trucks. If anyone has additional info on engine swaps for toyota truck I would like to know. Good or bad results, please. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup Author: David Rees at INTERNET-HUB Date: 5/14/96 2:51 PM >From: William Martin >I imagine that the following question has been posed to this >list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically, >please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota >pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't >burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe >a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!" >I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6 >in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my >pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the >engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop >up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill An engine swap like this one is likely to be very difficult. A better idea would be to modify your current engine. Does your truck have the 22R engine? If so, Downey (I'm not sure of how to contact them, I'm sure some other Toy-modders know) makes a multitude of performance parts to upgrade that engine. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Tue, 14 May 96 15:46:33 -0600 Subject: Re: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup To: William Martin , Like the other reply said, this swap would be hard. The first year for the V-6 was '86 as I remember. you don't even have the correct frame mounting points for the 3.0 v-6! The 3.0 v-6 doesn't buy you much horsepower per $$, considering the cost of a swap like this could run around $1000 for a COMPLETE used engine, and the time to fabricate custom motor mounts. I'd be inclined to first build the 22R (E). I am verry happy with mine after the mods, and the performance was plenty to keep it going about 60 up the passes in colorado on the way to Moab. This probably provides the most cost effective way to up the power. There are a lot of aftermarket parts for this engine, and if you want to talk about this I'll tell you what I did, and what I'd do differently if I do it again. If real power is what your after then this is my choice of setups in the order of preference: 1) 5.0L FI ford, NV4500 trans, adapter for the toy xfer case. 2) Chevy 4.3l Vortec V-6 (also FI), TH700R4, adapter to xfer. 3) Chevy 350 V-8, FI or carb, TH700R4, adapter for xfer. (need 2" min. body lift) 4) 4.3L chevy, carb manifold, belhousing adapter for stock trans. 5) Last resort - 350 chevy - stock trans w/adapter (body lift) If you can tell I loke the autos for the simple reason of less driveline abuse potental, and smooth off-roading. In addition to almost all of these, I'd put on about 2" SUSPENSION lift and 33" tires to lower the cruise rpm's with the factory 4.10's. I don't like the chevy engines for the fact that they usually require a body lift to clear the distributor in the back. I have seen 1 v-8 insalled with a 350and 1" body, and a little 'hammer work' on the firewall to clear a NON-HEI distributor. Good luck in deciding, I know it took me a long tome to decide, but now I am happy with the performance of the little toy and I still manage fair gas mileage. - Brian P.S. if anyone cares, you can see pictures at my website... it's : http://www.kcnet.com/~bwiencek Folow the Cars link, or follow the moab link to see pictures, and hopefully soon AVI clips! (as soon as I can get my PCI video card talking to my Video capture board) On Tue, 14 May 1996, William Martin wrote: > >I imagine that the following question has been posed to this >list previously but here goes (I'm not on the list offically, >please e-mail me directly if possible) I have an 1985 Toyota >pickup with a 4 cylinder and 135,000 miles. The engine isn't >burning any oil and the I think the compression is Ok, maybe >a little tired. But as Tim Allen would say "I need more power!" >I was thinking what was the first year Toyota introduced a V-6 >in their pickup line and could a V-6 be retrofitted to my >pickup?? If it worked it may be an easier to replace the >engine than to get into alot of performance equip. to hop >up a 4 cylinder. Thanks in advance. Bill > >. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 14 May 96 18:33:43 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MK1 Headers Well, I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2 sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power gain is. I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money? Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 20:10:20 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: Mk1 injector upgrade I just finished installing a set of balanced 250cc/min injectors into my '89 MK1 and the outcome was GREAT. After installing a 7" conical filter, straightened intake plumbing, a bored TB, header and 2.25" exhaust (no cat), the a/f ratio was lean through most of the rpm range. Although I wish I had an EGT at this point, I don't. After the injector installation, the car pulls much harder at WFO, and even idles nicer (this may be the effects of the balanced injectors??). At cruise, the a/f is right on the money, so apparently, the ECU is happy also. Tomorrow, I'll do some 40-70 times to get a benchmark before the special cams go in. FWIW, the old injectors came out SPOTLESS after 116,000 miles. Apparently the detergents in premium fuel really do work. Later, ------------------------------------------------------------- Bruce Crawford...............crawford@planet.earthcom.net '89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 ITA (Still not done) '83 RX-7 GSL ------------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Headers To: cberchin.ford@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Christopher T. Berchin USAET) Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 21:48:19 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Gerald writes: > **************************************************************************** > I believe everyone here is right in their own way. If someone has a somewhat > stock motor then installs a > header, gains are there, but minimal (stock cams have very little intake to > exhaust overlap). Now if someone > with high compression pistons and long duration cams comes around and bolts on > these same headers, the gains > will be tremendous. > **************************************************************************** > > I think we're all losing sight of another factor - the gains realized by > getting a header depend largely on the stock setup. For example, my > 1986 CRX Si had a TERRIBLE header from the factory - very abrupt curves, > poor flow. Just installing a 4-1 Jackson Racing header gave me HUGE gains > (with a Bassani tailpipe) across the entire rev range, with a big hit at > 4500 RPM. After adding the Jackson Racing camshaft for the car > (supplied by Web Cam) the power hit moved from about 4500 to 3500rpm. > For that car, just adding a header is a very good way to gain power. > However, the 4-2-1 design on the MR2 4AGE is already very good. I gained > very little by installing the TRD header (with my Monza tailpipe) on my MR2. > Hopefully I will get more gain when I install my HKS 272 cams. Had I known > the stock 4AGE header was so good, I'd have saved my money until I also > got the camshafts. > > Christopher T. Berchin > 1988 MR2 > Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com > Christopher, I was just wondering if you had your TRD header ceramic coated, or did you leave it with the chrome plated finish? Thanks :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 21:12:57 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Mk II '91 MR2T ignition hesitation. I've been experiencing some igntion hesitiation on my '91 MR2T, and I've now deduced the following: * It's under all driving conditions, temp ranges, rpm ranges, speed ranges, etc. * It seems most likely to happen on *humid* days - not moisture, but humitidy, related. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, and coil wire (comes with the spark plug wires). The fuel filter is on it's way from Lou Fusz. Even if it's not that, it needs to be replaced now anyway. I finally did the ECU test (short Te and E? - forget exactly). Even *I* need to RTFM every now and then. :) Got 14 - Ignitor, Coil or ECU, 'IGF(?) not getting signal 8-11 time in a row'. Or something like that. Anyway, any opinions out there? What would be first - the ignitor? And which is it? One of the two 'finned' things over the coil, or the small block between the 'finned' things and the fuse box. I know the little thing on the *other* side of the 'finned' things is the a/c idle up circuit (or darn well looks like one). Anyone else have this problem? Did replacing the ignitor fix the problem, if you *did* have this problem? Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 2X CD-ROM burner - Feel The Burn xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 00:24:19 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig A Terlau To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: aconitej@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Toyota Pickup A friend of mine who now drives a Starlet is looking to purchase a used four wheel drive Toyota pickup and asked me for advice. Since I know very little about these vehicles, I thought I would ask the experts. He is looking for a mid 80's to early 90's truck. Are there any years, models, engines, etc. that are more desirable or to avoid? Were there ever diesel engines offered in these trucks? What is the best used truck to buy? Thanks in advance for any advice! ___ (o o) +-----ooO-(_)-Ooo-----+ | Craig | xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:47:33 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: MK1 Headers >Well, >I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any >real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the >manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than >any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2 >sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor >and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust >and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard >exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated >sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for >the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant >change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power >gain is. > >I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard >one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They >are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a >car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding >and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money? >Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?) > Yup. But you just can't help some people - they have to spend money when they don't need to. As the saying goes, "There's one born every minute." The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:47:42 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Headers D Aucott wrote - (replying to me) >>I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power >>than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas >>of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing, >>I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and >>therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard >>engine at low revs. :) > >I disagree. The "drag racing" we did was from a rolling start of 2000 rpm >for the sole purpose of checking low end power and taking the driver skill >out of it. I also have a superior clutch to Chris now so an offline start >would be unfair -- I could drop it at 4500 and keep it there, he'd just burn >the crap out of the POS stock clutch... Anyway, if I did see any low end >losses (which I still debate) I solved it by disconnecting the EGR. I have >more power now in all areas, and it's wonderful on the autocross track where >I never even get to the 4200 rpm TVIS mark. > Again you are agreeing with me, but saying you are _not_. Perhaps if you had some more extensive racing experience, you would know that virtually ALL of your performance gain that you claim is from your light flywheel, especially in the autocross events. Also, FWIW, I run a standard Toyota clutch and have no problems with it at all. (That includes 6000+ rpm burnouts for 1/4 mile runs.) True, it _is_ marginal, but I change gears slightly differently to most people and it seems to make the clutch last longer. The B Man. >Believe me, it breathes better now! I'm not saying the stock manifold isn't >good, but it does weigh alot more, and we did see some gains. I don't think >it'd do much good by itself without an intake or exhaust change, just as I >didn't see much change by just doing the intake, but together it makes a >difference, IMHO. > >Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:47:57 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: MK1 Headers >> I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel - >> they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you >> actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a >> guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up >> 0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length! >> >> The B Man. > >wow..... half a second with just a lightened flywheel. >Sounds too hard to believe. Maybe on a 'stock' >vehicle. > Yes, true, that is compared to an original 'heavy' flywheel. >But the faster you go in the quarter mile, the horsepower needed to lower >your ETs multiplies. And I don't think just a flywheel will give that much >free horsepower. > Again true, but a flywheel of _any_ weight will not give you 'free' horsepower, only let you use what you have more effectively. To give three practical (real life) examples - 1. A friends' 2TG powered KE20. Exiting a particular corner with the original 'heavy' flywheel full throttle could be used with out wheelspin. With a very light racing flywheel, (and NO other changes) the car broke into immediate wheelspin. The engine had no extra power, so the light flywheel appeared to give the car extra power, or, "let you use what you have more effectively". Lap times dropped as well, though by how much I could not tell you. FWIW, on the new engine I'm building for my AE-86, I will be using an alloy flywheel with a steel ring inserted for the clutch to rub on. 2. Drag racers seem to go for one extreme or the other. I believe the 'Top Fuel' drag cars have very little weight on the flywheel, but some of the lesser classes use very heavy flywheels. As an example I know of a Mazda 13B turbo RX-7 that has a 30 lb flywheel! I guess this is to keep the rpm more stable once high rpms have been reached. (Another rule - of - thumb? For drag racing Supercharged cars use light flywheels, and turbo cars use heavy??) 3. The Formula One boys must use almost no flywheel at all - in an interview with a Judd engineer, the engineer was quoted as saying that "if the throttle was held full open for one second, we have calculated that the engine would rev to about 120,000 rpm. But it would probably blow up first!" That's a hell of an increase in revs-per-second! When I bought the alloy flywheel for my racing car engine, the engineer that built it said that the reduction in weight would be worth over 1/2 second a lap. This was _after_ I'd payed for it, so I'd say he was not trying to sell it to me again. :) As for the old wives tale that a light flywheel causes a rough idle, it's just that - rubbish. (In my experience) The engine in my racing car is a Suzuki GTi 1300cc, and puts out about 170hp - it idles at 1500 rpm with hardly any 'lumpyness'. The clutch, clutch plate, and flywheel combined weigh 13 lbs. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:48:04 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Headers >Hi all, > The subject of headers has once again arisen and I can say >that many do not really understand what it does for the motor. >There are three types of exhaust manifold. The first type is the >stock manifold which gives excellent all-round performance with >no flat spots and a smooth powerband. The second type is the >Tri-Y design or 4-2-1 which is supposed to give an increase in mid- >range and top end power over the stock manifold. The third type is >the 4-1 and this type is supposed to give a greater increase in top >end power with a weak bottom and mid range. The header is also >supposed to enhance any modifications to the motor in conjunction >with a free flowing exhaust. > >Correct me if I'm wrong. > >gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca > Completely correct. Greg Chan is informed, and others are not, thus nature balances itself. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:48:11 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Headers Gerald San Agustin wrote - >Do headers increase power? Yes they do, better for some applications. And yes, there are compromises. An >example is the 4 into 1 style header. These are the types usually used for fully built race motors. While >they give superior exhaust scavenging in the higher rpm ranges, they decrease gas velocity midrange and below, >making that engine unstreetable. > Yup, though perhaps with not totally unstreetable, merely unpleasant in varying degrees. :) >I been reading many of you autocrossers favor stock manifolds. I'm guessing this is due to the fact that you >need a very broad torque band. For drag racers, where the rpms stay at or near redline 90% of the time, >headers do improve ETs. > >Bottom line.... different types of racing, different ways of tuning the engine. > Yup. It's the old "swings & roundabouts" story, though modern technology can help quite a bit. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:03:33 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MKI Buyer *** Resending note of 05/15/96 07:49 David A. wrote: >lastly, what year do u guys consider the most bang for the buck? From a chassis point of view I like the '86 model. Toyota redesigned the rear suspension to increase the understeer on the street, and in doing so eliminated the mounting points for the rear sway bar. Most of the performance goodies (TRD header, Susp Tech bars, etc) are made to bolt right up to the '85 or '86, but need finesse to bolt up to the '87 or '88. This is not to say you can't upgrade a later model, cuz Chris B's '88 works quite well with a full complement of ADDCO (aka TRD) bars, but he's had alot more trouble getting it there. The '85 is the only one that will take the HKS light flywheel as stock, but it can be bolted up to any of them. Lastly, if you're interested in options, the '86 had everything in most cases, while many '87/'88 were stripped. The '85 will probably not have the side skirts. All this probably won't matter if you're rally racing the car anyhoo. Dave A. :) Two 1986 MR2s xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:22:52 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Headers It appears I did start a debate... as well as a few "opinions." Header or no header, you decide. I like mine, others do not. Perhaps when I put together my new '86 I'll hook up everything without the header and then put it in to see the difference -- that way I won't have the clutter of the flywheel and exhaust to blur the effects. Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 15 May 96 08:48:39 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol Cc: "Steve B." , Subject: Nose Job Hello all, For about 4 months now, I have been living with a dented nose. I have a new one and am having it painted. How difficult is it to change the nose?? Can / should I attempt this myself? Later Larry S 91 MR2 T xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 15 May 96 08:48:43 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: "Steve B." Cc: Geoff , Subject: From Restrictor to Bleeder Hello all, I have decided to install my TVVC in the cockpit as opposed to in the engine bay due to unreliable / unpredictable operation. Until yesterday I had the TVVC hooked up as a restrictor to the actuator. I have heard that setting it up as a bleeder to the atmos is better both operationally and for installing. I don't like to drill through the fire wall *ever* so one hole is better than two. I have placed a T connector inline in the hose from the compressor housing to the actuator. The other hose goes to the input side of the TVVC. After doing this, I am not able to get boost higher than stock!!! Am I leaving something out?? ARGH!! Being the boost junkie that I am (love anything over and above 15 psi) I'm goin kwazzy! Any hints / help is greatly appreciated (as usual) Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:13:41 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Headers To get it straight from the horses mouth instead of everyones opinions, I called Doug Thorley to get info on headers. Anyone who is interested may want to do the same. Doug Thorleys phone # is (909) 735-7280 Pacific Time. I had heard from so many people that DT bent the headers for Downy, well according to DT this is nothing but a rumor (for the 3.0L V6 anyway, didn't ask about the 4 banger). I would question DT as to whether they bend the pipes for TRD, unless someone knows for a fact, for those that are interested anyway. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:25:45 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Toy Truck mods I wouldn't waste my time or money retrofitting with the Toy 3.0 V6. That is the engine I have in my 90 4-runner and it is well under powered. There are a few things that you can do to squeeze more umph out of it (which I have now done and am quiet happy with the results) but as previosly mentioned, I would mod the 4 cyl before thinking about doing an engine swap. There are MANY MORE after market upgrades available for the 4 cyl vs the 3.0L V6 and they seem a little cheaper to boot. Two of the biggest aftermarket parts suppliers for Toy trucks are Downey and Northwest Off Road (NWOR). Their phone numbers are: Downey (310) 949-9494 NWOR (360) 676-1200 Performance 1-800-553-2840 Products All have catalogs, only the Performance Products catalog is free, all are Pacific time zone. I would look at everyones parts they offer and take their comments with a grain of salt. Downey has a lot of good stuff but they are real bad to talk shit about their competition. IMO NWOR actually has better headers. Good luck Steve xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 06:34:03 -0700 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Re: V-6 in '85 Toyota Pickup To: William Martin Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com 4-Runner that I use to tow my MR-2 to races with ( trailer weighs 4400 lbs loaded ) I was looking for something that would give me a little more power. My final configuration that I am happy with is: K&N intake, Stock exaust manifold, high flow cat, Borla exaust and a Downey mild EFI cam. I've tried different headers, and have been disappointed. I also looked at engine swaps but wasn't interested in the amount of work invloved. Thanks John Welch '86 4-Runner '87 MR-2 Turbo '78 Triumph Spitfire xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 07:31:14 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: headers Bill Sherwood wrote: > > >Well, > >I've seen so much talk on 4AG headers of late but have you guys got any > >real dyno figures to prove that they work? My experience is that the > >manifold on the car is as good as a 4-2-1 system can get and better than > >any header a I have seen. One of the problem is headers have is that the O2 > >sensor gets too cold, just try and put a voltage probe in your O2 sensor > >and measure the voltage drop of a header at idle over the standard exhaust > >and watch the mixture get richer for no reason. Then put the standard > >exhaust back and save money on gas! Yes you get one of those heated > >sensors to stop the problem or use cool-it tape but you pay no money for > >the factory item and its quite good enough. Now that doesnt mean you cant > >change the exhaust pipe and muffler, in fact this is where the useful power > >gain is. > > > >I tried this out on my 2TG, standard V's TRD......result was that standard > >one was a little better, on the 4AG I have headers and I wish I didnt. They > >are very noisy and three weeks ago I was beaten up the main straight by a > >car with the standard cast iron affair....and my cool-it tape keeps unwinding > >and the sensor gets cold and the car runs too rich....why send the money? > >Bruce (What do you recon my Sherwood?) > > > Yup. But you just can't help some people - they have to spend money when > they don't need to. > As the saying goes, "There's one born every minute." > > The B Man. my brother in law has an 84 corolla (4AGE). He brought it to Carlsbad Raceway in California in bone stock form. He managed to get a best time of 16.7. A month later, for some reason, he purchased a header before anything else (maybe because he got it dirt cheap). Anyways, we decided to return just to see if there were any improvements. He managed to get a 16.31 with 'JUST' that header. (No air filter, exhaust, or flywheel mods!!) Hmmmmm...... must have been that extra tail wind or that bottle of 104+...... Like I said, I can't speak at all for autocrossers. As for drag racing applications, 4 tenths of a second is money well spent if you ask me. yup... "there's one drag racer born every minute, 1 autocrosser every two" =) Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:16:20 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Headers bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote: > > To the list, > Well this header debate is really getting hot, for my 10 cents worth lets > get something straight, I believe that for a 4AG with standard to 272 cams > and standard to 10.3 pistons that changing the factory unit for another 4-2-1 > is of little if any help to your overall lap time or drivability. So many of > the mods in this forum are done without accurate measurement and I believe > so many of the results are found to be favourable simply because you paid > money for something so it must be better in some way than the factory unit, > This is an unpopular view perhaps but I know of so many people who modified > their cars to the max to get blown away by the factory units! > It isnt fair to say a header did something when you changed the exhaust and > flywheel as well! I have a 4AG light flywheel and this makes the most seat of > the pants difference of any mod I have done, and Bill's .2 of a second doesnt > seem far off to me. As for heat tape, its a great thing. I doesnt do ANYTHING > for power at all but stops your disy melting and your hands burning up when you > change the starter on race day. You dont bind it down low as it will get wet > and cause more problems than it solves. If Jet Hot is as cool then I would use > it. As for the intake you shouldnt be taking air from the engine compartment > anyway. Its so easy to make a tube to the outside world. > > As for the assumption that you need to change the factory headers when you put > in big cams it may be the case for some engines but notice that Bill's 280 or > were they 288's are still run out of the standard cast iron affair! As for the > 2TG I didnt get one BHP out of headers until I went 3TG and openned the ports. > No amount of header or exhaust work could get us over 205 BHP as we couldnt > flow any more air. > Bruce again.... I can't speak about cars built for autocrossing. But so far, everyone has been saying "it sure feels like .2 of a second" or "I get a better lap time with the stock header" and even "mildy built engines getting blown away by stockers 'in the straights". Everyone is talking about road racing, which also involves suspension and driving techniques. We're talking about two different applications here. Drag racing needs an engine with a different power band than an engine tuned for the turns. It doesn't matter if you flew by another vehicle with a header with your stock piece. You're still on an autocross track as compared to a 1/4 mile straight. Do you floor that pedal for 15 seconds straight? Does your rpms stay above 6000 at all times? Nope, you have to downshift and negotiate that next turn, then reapply power. In my personal opinion, drag racing is the best way to gauge any increase in horsepower. Since most driving is with the throttle wide open near redline, back to back results can be achieved. Someone noted that changing to a lightened flywheel caused more oversteer than the stocker when reapplying power. I also read an opinion about Indy cars, Top Fuel dragsters, then rotary engines. Sorry, I don't rev to 12000, burn nitromethane, or have two triangles spinning in my engine. Since this debate is starting to get ugly, let's just leave drag racing applications for the drag racers and the autocross applications to the road racers. Obviously everyone has had different results with different setups. There is obviously a difference is the two types of racing and how the motor is used so let's just leave it at that ..... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:07:25 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: Bill Sherwood Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MK1 Headers Hey, About the flywheel reducing your 1/4 mile time by 0.2-0.5, it this true? If so I would love to lighting my flywheel also....after I get my headers! How much does it cost? Do they just shave it to make it lighter? Thanks...This group is great...I get lots of ideas!!! Qui On Tue, 14 May 1996, Bill Sherwood wrote: > Hi there, > D Aucott said - > >At the risk of starting a debate, I'll give you my personal experience. I > >installed my Powermax intake mod before doing anything else to the engine, > >then went one-on-one with Chris B. and his '88 (with TRD header, Monza > >exhaust, K&N filter, no airbox) and lost by a carlength or more. I then > >installed the TRD header and HKS exhaust with catalytic convertor and a light > >flywheel. Now I am equal to or faster than him on a drag (we battle it out > >on the autocross track also). I realize the flywheel will help the revs and > >the exhaust is better than stock, but I have to believe that the header in > >conjunction with the Powermax filter mod has made quite a difference over > >stock. > > > No debate neccesary - what you have said is basically in agreement with what > I said. (You must read what I wrote a bit more carefully though! :) > I _did_ say that an engine with good extractors would put out more power > than one with the factory originals, but only at the expense of other areas > of the rev range, ie, most likely the lower end. Since you are drag racing, > I would have to assume that you are using more than about 3000 rpm and > therefore are not comparing your power output with another more standard > engine at low revs. :) > I also think that you greatly underestimate the effect of a light flywheel - > they can work wonders! (they make you think you have far more power than you > actually have, but let you _use_ that power far more effectively) At a > guess, I'd say that with a light flywheel, the 'average' car would pick up > 0.2 - 0.5 sec down the 1/4 mile. That's easily a car's length! > > The B Man. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:10:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tacoma 4-banger Wow, that blazing header discussion is gonna need some thermal wrap to keep the mailing-list temps down.. =) So let me pop in here. I'm not up to snuff on the current iteration of R-series engines. Are they using the 22RE on the base (4x2) Tacomas? And what is the designation of the balance-shaft engine (150hp) on the 4x4 version? Is there a selection of performance parts available for these engines, and are they compatible with parts for the 22RE? Info appreciated! -Jayson Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:48:48 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: info request Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Here is a question for the pros. Given the E153 standard MR2 differential. There is a ring gear, the one that drives the differential from the gearbox. It is mounted on the differential with 16 screws. Question: This ring gear has two sides. One is recessed more, the other less. The book is NOT clear as to which side the mounting bolt heads rest. In the large recessed side or in the less recessed side? This gear is heated and fitted. It fits both ways but rests in different heights. I want to mount it BEFORE opening the transaxle. If one mounts the screw heads in the less recessed area the heads stick over the gear flush level. It does not seem right, also the design drawings show the bolt heads on the large recessed area, but the book indicates the large recessed area with an arrow showing to the speed gear input, which means that the bolt heads will rest in the less recessed area....wrong??????? I would appreciate the help of somebody that has gone all the way to the differential. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 12:45:56 -0600 To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> From: cal@rt66.com (Cal Smith) Subject: Re: From Restrictor to Bleeder Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Lawrence wrote: >I have decided to install my TVVC in the cockpit as opposed to in the >engine bay due to unreliable / unpredictable operation... >I have placed a T connector inline in the hose >from the compressor housing to the actuator. The other hose goes to >the input side of the TVVC. After doing this, I am not able to get boost >higher than stock!!! ... First, installing the unit in the engine compartment will allow shorter hoses and therefore less boost spikes. You will be able to run higher continuous (read: controlled) boost levels because the spiking will be much less severe. The unit should be mounted somewhere solid to insure that it wouldn't get knocked around and lose its setting. From the problems you stated after moving the actuator to the cockpit, I'd say that the line to the TVVC is either crimped or blocked. If you are using soft washer-resivoir type tubing it is entirely possible that snaking the hose into the cockpit would be enough to block it off pretty effectively. Use fuel-line (with the fiberglass braided middle section) to insure that gases flow freely. Remember that in restrictor configuration you want the gases to be impeded. In bleeder configuration, with the bleeder connected with a "T" rather than in series, the line to the bleeder MUST impede gas flow less than the wastegate actuator in order to work. From what you've described, it sounds like the easiest path for your gases is the stock wastegate actuator. Check the hose (blow into it and see if it is blocked), the connections, and double-check the connection to the TVVC valve to make sure it is properly hooked up to be a bleeder device. Cal Smith xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 15 May 96 16:56:56 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Headers To the list, Well this header debate is really getting hot, for my 10 cents worth lets get something straight, I believe that for a 4AG with standard to 272 cams and standard to 10.3 pistons that changing the factory unit for another 4-2-1 is of little if any help to your overall lap time or drivability. So many of the mods in this forum are done without accurate measurement and I believe so many of the results are found to be favourable simply because you paid money for something so it must be better in some way than the factory unit, This is an unpopular view perhaps but I know of so many people who modified their cars to the max to get blown away by the factory units! It isnt fair to say a header did something when you changed the exhaust and flywheel as well! I have a 4AG light flywheel and this makes the most seat of the pants difference of any mod I have done, and Bill's .2 of a second doesnt seem far off to me. As for heat tape, its a great thing. I doesnt do ANYTHING for power at all but stops your disy melting and your hands burning up when you change the starter on race day. You dont bind it down low as it will get wet and cause more problems than it solves. If Jet Hot is as cool then I would use it. As for the intake you shouldnt be taking air from the engine compartment anyway. Its so easy to make a tube to the outside world. As for the assumption that you need to change the factory headers when you put in big cams it may be the case for some engines but notice that Bill's 280 or were they 288's are still run out of the standard cast iron affair! As for the 2TG I didnt get one BHP out of headers until I went 3TG and openned the ports. No amount of header or exhaust work could get us over 205 BHP as we couldnt flow any more air. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Ted Looi Subject: All this header stuff To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:29:23 +1000 (EST) My turn to add my 2c (or whatever inflation is bringing it to now). Firstly, my 4AGE is on a street car, not a race car. But I have spoken to people who build race motors including 4AGEs. The replacement of the factory cast iron headers can alter the characteristics of a motor. They are built to specs provided by a customer (unless you buy off the shelf). The interference style headers are seen more on the streets purely because it takes up a lot less space. The lengths of the pipes are the crucial part in "tuning" you engine for the rev range that you want. If you had 4-1 headers with a 36" primary, then that would probably give you great usefulness on the track (assuming you drive between 5500 and 8000rpm). Though camshafts would show better gains I think. I have a set of TRDs with run at 16" primaries in a 4-2-1 format. This dumps into a 2.5" collector. On the dyno, it did not make much more power in terms of peak hp@rpm, but gave a better and smoother curve at middling rpms. The 4AGE motors that ran in the old GpA touring car format would produce a quoted 210hp in all out format, or about 190hp for the longer races. But, they did rev to 9500-10000rpm. They were also torn down after each race. This is a few years ago and I expect that these days technology has enabled a few more hp to be screwed out of them. Formula 1 motors are run to ~16000rpm, I hope that they balance everything "very" well. Oh well, had my say now. I can go back to driving my 4AGE which I now believe is the smoothest twincam 1600 motor around. My other car has the Mazda B6 1.6L (MX5) and while it is great fun, it does not have the smoothness of the 4AGE (Even though it is a newer motor) but seems to have good flexibility in the entire rev range. TEd -- -----------------------@____@-------------------------------------------------- __/~> `--' Ted Looi, Network/Host Security, _/{___} DPI, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia /\ /\ '86 Seca AE82 4AGE "SXTC" '91 MX5 BRG ted@dpi.qld.gov.au "TALK TO ME" $ R we there yet?? Nope... R we there yet?? Nope... R we there yet?? Nope... ^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 16:09:41 -0700 From: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com (Gerald San Agustin ) Subject: Fwd: Re: headers To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com ---- Begin Forwarded Message Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 11:52:33 -0500 To: geraldsa@ix.netcom.com From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Re: headers Gerald wrote: >my brother in law has an 84 corolla (4AGE). He brought it to Carlsbad >Raceway in California in bone stock >form. He managed to get a best time of 16.7. A month later, for some >reason, he purchased a header before >anything else (maybe because he got it dirt cheap). Anyways, we decided >to return just to see if there were >any improvements. He managed to get a 16.31 with 'JUST' that header. (No >air filter, exhaust, or flywheel >mods!!) > I've been meaning to check on this since the great header debate started, but I think the stock exhaust manifold on the Corolla 4AGs and the MR2 4AGs might be different, because of the different exhaust pipe arrangements (front engine vs mid engine). Aftermarket headers are not interchangeable between the cars because of the cat location, but does anyone know if the stock cast iron manifold is the same? >yup... "there's one drag racer born every minute, 1 autocrosser every two" =) thats cause autocrossing requires more brain power than just "foot to the floor":-))) (Just yankin your chain :-))) Michael Leary Ithaca NY 1987 Corolla GT-S (E Stock) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Are your headers coated, or not? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 19:25:37 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu TO EVERYONE RUNNING A TRD HEADER ON A MK1 MR2 ('85-'89) OR OTHER 4AGE CAR: Can you please just quickly respond to the digest or the toyota-mods list, or my address (abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu) saying whether you have had your header: 1) Ceramic or JetHot Coated 2) Wrapped with tape or 3) Just running it without any coating or tape (right out of the box). All I'm asking for is a quick "Yes, I run mine coated by JetHot", or "Yes I wrapped mine with tape", or "No, I just run mine without any coating or tape". And, just tell me if you felt a difference with it, Judging by the seat of your pants. That's all I ask. My reason for asking this is to see whether coating the header or wrapping it really makes a noticeable difference in seat of the pants acceleration feel. I've already had one response from Dave Aucott who says that he had his JetHot Coated and that he feels a difference over stock. On the other hand, Christopher T. Berchin says he didn't feel much difference, but he has not had his header coated or wrapped. Is it possible that Dave's cooler underhood temperatures are making the difference? (aside from the fact that Dave's done a few other mods as well). Thanks guys, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 19:30:16 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: buying a MK1 MR2 I thought I'd throw my personal opinion on this subject out there. I own a 1988 MR2 that I purchased somewhat uninformed. In fact, I bought it a great deal uninformed. Had I to do it over again, I would still have bought my car (it only had 27,000 miles on it - it has 38,000 now and is rust-free), but I would recommend getting a 1986 or a 1985, in that order. In 1987, Toyota completely changed the rear suspension geometry - the attachment points for the rear anti-sway bar were eliminated from the shock carriers, and the suspension bits are totally different from the 1985 and 1986 models. (I'm writing this from a United States point of view - we didn't get any MR2's prior to the 1985 models.) Toyota also apparently stiffened the front springs on the car. All of this (from what I understand) was done as planning for when the superchaged car came out. The N/A cars have 56% of the weight in the rear, the S/C cars have 58%. Thus, they seem to have tried to reduce the car's neutrality/oversteer. My 1988, as sold by Toyota, was a horrible understeering pig. As Dave A. said, getting the Addco bars for my car has transformed it, but the installation in the rear is not nearly as clean as it would be on a 1985-86 car. On the upside, Toyota started producing stripped cars in 1987 - no power accessories at all. This is the car I have - it is considerably lighter than Dave A.'s silver 1986 car (loaded). But these stripper cars had much cheaper (but lighter) seats (comfortable, but nowhere near as good as the multi-adjustable seats), a wimpy steering wheel with no wrapping, no rear center console, and cheap carpeting. They also didn't have the side skirts or rear wings (unless the person ordered these as an option). Many had steel wheels instead of alloys (ugly!). I ended up buying a loaded 1987 car that was the same color as mine and pirating the seats, wheels, rear console/carpeting, side skirts, mud flaps, rear wing, front trunk trim, and steering wheel for my low-mile car. Yes, I added some weight, but my personal enjoyment of the vehilce has increased a great deal. Seeing as the entire upgrade only cost me $300, I figure it was money well-spent. Also note that the 1987 marks the minor facelift that Toyota gave the car. I like the new front end, I strongly dislike the new rear lamps. Also, this is when Toyota moved the air intake from under the hood the right side of the car. They succeeded in getting outside air into the engine, but the rear trunk is now much smaller than on the previous cars (the air filter and all its plumbing is back there), and the route the air takes is about 9 feet (~3 m) long - this doesn't help throttle response one bit. The reason I got into all of that was because the 1986 cars tend to be loaded - all the power goodies (or baddies, depending on if you race), high- grade seats and carpeting, side skirts, etc. My recommendation is to find a clean 1986 model first (make sure you add the 1986 rear sway bar to the car, or get a set of Suspension Technique bars for it), and if you can't find that, go for a 1985. If you stumble across a low-mileage 1987-89 for a good price, go for it. Just realize that it will take some work to make it as good as the 1986 models. Lastly, a clean supercharged car would be a good buy - they were 1988-89, but they aren't very common, and you'd be starting with more horsepower and a lot more torque than I'm ever going to have in mild street trim. I apologize for the length of this post, but I found out the hard way that I bought the wrong MR2 and I don't want to see anyone make the same mistake if I can help it. I don't regret my choice of car, but it did take $200 for sway bars, $300 (and the 'fun' of selling my 1987 car) for the seats, etc., and over a year's time and research to make the car acceptable to me. Let me know what you finally get! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 - finally happy with the chassis! Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 96 02:05:35 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 91 brakes & Shifter I have seen a parts listing to upgrade a 91T MR2 brakes to 93 specs, though I am not sure of the benefit/cost of this upgrade. The same seems to apply to the 91 shifter. Could some of the MR2 gurus please give a lowly neophyte some info on this subject? Note for whoever cares: I just ordered a K&N filtercharger Injection kit, a turbo boost controller (Mr.2PP version), Redline MTL, a stainless steel "straight pipe" that bolts to the cat (no muffler), and a set of toyota shop manuals. I can hardly wait for the brown truck to arrive! I live in a state that has no auto inspection (just did away with it this past summer in SC) so.... what do you guys think of illegally removing or roto-rooting the last cat? Though I guess I should do my part to keep our air clean. William Hall work: Charlotte, NC will@portanc.infoave.net home: Rock Hill, SC wh_hall@msn.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: buying a MK1 MR2 or Mitsu To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 22:46:40 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Mr. Christopher T. Berchin wrote: > > I apologize for the length of this post, but I found out the hard way that > I bought the wrong MR2 and I don't want to see anyone make the same mistake > if I can help it. I don't regret my choice of car, but it did take $200 > for sway bars, $300 (and the 'fun' of selling my 1987 car) for the seats, > etc., and over a year's time and research to make the car acceptable to me. > Please pardon my non-toyota/non-mr2 question, but does anyone have any info on what the best year for a Mitsubishi Starion/Chrysler Conquest was? Also, any info on this car in general would be appreciated. If I buy one, I don't want to make a mistake like the one above. I was lucky with the MR2, and would like to make as good a choice if I buy a Conquest. If anyone has this car, or shares an interest in it, that would be even better. I can't seem to find an internet listing for it. Please email me direct since this is not a toyota related question. Thanks :) Aly '85 MR2 Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu PS, Please note that I would never sell my MR2 if I bought a Conquest, nor am I suggesting in the least that the Conquest is as cool a car as the MR2. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:57:11 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: '91T MR2 K&N FIPK install - Help! I'm tring to install the '91T MR2 K&N FIPK - thanks MR2 Performance Parts. But I've hit one snag. The directions as a whole are very good, but it is saying one thing that has me confused. I was able to install the horizontal support - the one that goes down, to one of the holes that the original lower air-filter box attaches to. But the vertical support - the one that attaches to the tab that the engine mini-cover attaches to - is being difficult. The instructions reference a 'stock part' bracket, L-shaped, that is supposed to already be on the turbo-side of the AFM. But there isn't one! I even looked in the Genuine Toyota manual, checking all of the pictures, and even the Toyota manual *doesn't* show this L-shaped bracket. Am I missing something here? The K&N instructions says it's there, but the Toyota manual's pictures says it isn't! The unit is 'relatively' stable right now, but I sure would like to support it on 3-dimensions. It is supported from the passenger side (the rubber tube to the turbo), and the bottom (to the original air-box lower-support). But I'd like to get the front-support) to the tab there, so that it is *very* stable. Hopefully this made sense to someone, who has also gone through this install. Everything seemed to go in ok, but that 'stock bracket' that is referenced in the 'exploded view' on the last page of the instructions *just* *isn't* *there*! Help! Am I nuts? Thanks to anyone who can help. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve Bagdon (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 2X CD-ROM burner - Feel The Burn xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 23:20:43 -0700 To: aly abulkheir , From: Aric Shen Subject: Re: Are your headers coated, or not? Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu At 07:25 PM 5/15/96 -0400, aly abulkheir wrote: >TO EVERYONE RUNNING A TRD HEADER ON A MK1 MR2 ('85-'89) OR OTHER 4AGE CAR: > >1) Ceramic or JetHot Coated > >2) Wrapped with tape > >or >3) Just running it without any coating or tape (right out of the box). Just running it without any coating or tape.. I thought it made a pretty big difference, espcially in 5th gear on the freeway.. % Aric Shen % % Speedline Racing Concepts % % 1987 RX-7 Turbo & 1986 MR2 % % e-mail : shafted @ primenet.com % % home page: http://www.primenet.com/~shafted % & check out: http://www.webcom.com/~dynamic % xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 16:55:09 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: XXHeadersXX (fwd) This one never made it to the list - please try not to include the keyword xxsubscribexx or xxunsubscribexx in the first few lines of messages :) Also, please use some discretion when posting your opinions (esp with regard to headers...) If you do feel that some-one was incorrect then by all means post but then leave it at that - one posting is usually enough to understand which way we sway and to get a broad range of views is good *but* try not to chew any-ones head off in the process - we all have various types of experience with toyotas and I am sure each of us can contribute in our own way...without causing tension and potential loss of knowledgeable people. Now back to your regularly scheduled mods.... Paul. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@CompuServe.COM> Subject: XXHeadersXX If I see one more mail message with the title 'Headers' I'mm gonna unsubscribe!!!! Just kidding, but seriously. As Gerald said in his last post, all cars are built up with different mods in different order for different reasons. I personally KNOW for a fact that all cars are not created equal. Two of my non-believer friends (in Toyota that is) have *identical* 92 Camaro Z-28's with the exact same options, including the 350 TPI engine. We went to the track with them stock and ran them about 10 times each. Car 'A' we'll call it ran consistent 14.1? while car 'B' ran consistent 14.4?. What does this mean? Every once in a while, you get a car that's just put together the right way. Even from an automated assembly line! Both cars bought the same headers and installed them exactly the same way (I did it so I know) (along with exhaust and K&N ram air filter) and we returned to the track. The results were proof positive that there are too many factors to have a set of rules set in stone. Car 'A' ran consistent 13.9? and Car 'B' ran consistent 14.0?'s Now I know that this is just drag racing, but you can see the point I'm getting at. TOO MANY VARIABLES! So stop arguing! Just my $0.02. Later, Larry S. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 17:00:07 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Headers Gerald San August wrote - >again.... I can't speak about cars built for autocrossing. >But so far, everyone has been saying "it sure feels >like .2 of a second" or "I get a better lap time with the >stock header" and even "mildy built engines getting >blown away by stockers 'in the straights". Everyone is >talking about road racing, which also involves >suspension and driving techniques. > True, but if the only thing that has been changed is the exhaust or flywheel, then that is a fair test. If you change two or more things at a time, then it is not. A lap time is a lap time ...... (And going around in circles requires considerably more skill that driving in a straight line.) Remember the best saying in motor racing - "The bullshit stops when the flag drops!" >In my personal opinion, drag racing is the best way to >gauge any increase in horsepower. Since most driving is >with the throttle wide open near redline, back to back >results can be achieved. > Yep, fair enough. >I also read an opinion (that was me, and it wasn't an opinion, they are facts) >about Indy cars (It was Formula One, _not_ Indy - pay attention!), >Top Fuel dragsters, then rotary engines. > I thought I'd give some real life examples for credibility. Excuse me for introducing the real world into the thread. >Sorry, I don't rev to 12000, burn nitromethane, or >have two triangles spinning in my engine. > A little bit of general knowledge never hurt anyone ..... (and FWIW the F1 cars are up around 17,000 rpm!) FWIW, one of the people I turn to for everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know about 4AGE's has raced them for a number of years with great success. (He is also an ex-1960's Formula One engineer) His car holds the speed record at Australia's most famous touring car circuit - Bathurst. His car was clocked at 260 kph, and that was with a standard exhaust manifold and Weber carburetors. At times he has used thin-wall tube extractors, but the only reason for that was to save weight - no extra power was obtained. In any case, he is missing the point (as usual) - We all agree that a well designed set of extractors WILL increase power, but at the expense of power in other areas of the rev range, but - The bottom line is - if you can't stop yourself from spending money on the car, then put it into something that you KNOW will be of benefit - We KNOW that extractors increase power, but usually at the expense of driveability, and we KNOW that a light flywheel gives excellent results at all points. For God's sake, how could it be more simple?? Remember - the original question was something along the lines of whether or not extractors were worth getting for road use - not specifically for drag racing or autocross or whatever. That question has been quite adequately answered - extractors are _not_ needed or desired for road use. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 16 May 96 07:17:20 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: "Steve B." Cc: Geoff , Subject: Blow Off Valve Hi all, What would be the symptoms that my blow off valve has gone bad? Can I test it? What would happen if I disconnected it? Is it possible? Just wondering. Later, Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:58:27 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Header coating Aly wrote: > I've already had one response from Dave Aucott who says that he had > his JetHot Coated and that he feels a difference over stock. On the other Somewhere the signals got crossed on this one! My header is out-of-the-box uncoated metal. I don't recall ever saying it was coated... BTW, when I weighed the parts, the header weighs the same as the stock manifold, so the savings you have is the weight of the flex pipe. Not enough to justify $265 unless you are really scraping for weight savings... .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:45:52 EDT From: "Steve Bagdon USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods name: Steve Bagdon location: Detroit, MI (yes, *that* Detroit) model: '91 MR2 Turbo engine: 3S-GTE (anybody have a Lexus SC-400 V8 lying around?) mods: K&N FIPK Kit (via MR2 Performance Products) Mechanical boost controller (as soon as the wheels/tires sell) Cat-back straight pipe (anybody interested in a right 1/4 panel?) e-mail: bagdon@rust.net (h), USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) Charter-member - Ford World Headquarters MR2 Driving Club:) Regards, Steve Bagdon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 16 May 96 09:00:35 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol Cc: "Steve B." , Subject: Braking Noise Last night I heard a noise that didn't exactly make me feel comfortable about driving my car. This could have been going on for a while, because last night was the first night in a while that I didn't have the radio blaring. :-) As I was braking moderately, I heard a thumping noise. No Idea what it was but it sounded almost like there was a bump/gouge in the rotor. It was almost 12 o'clock so I didn't pop the wheel off. I'll check it tonight. I was just wondering if anyone out there had a similar problem. Later Larry S 91 MR2 T xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 06:03:45 -0700 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: used MR-2 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Toyota completely changed the rear suspension geometry - the attachment points >for the rear anti-sway bar were eliminated from the shock carriers, and the >suspension bits are totally different from the 1985 and 1986 models. Actually this happed on '88 models.. my '87 and the one I was getting parts off of in the junk yard both have the sway bar mounts. (I'm >writing this from a United States point of view - we didn't get any MR2's >prior to the 1985 models.) Toyota also apparently stiffened the front >springs on the car. All of this (from what I understand) was done as >planning for when the superchaged car came out. The N/A cars have 56% of >the weight in the rear, the S/C cars have 58%. Thus, they seem to have >tried to reduce the car's neutrality/oversteer. This was not an issue to reduce oversteer... it's just that the S/C block and the S/C parts added weight to the rear of the car. My 1988, as sold by Toyota, >was a horrible understeering pig. As Dave A. said, getting the Addco bars >for my car has transformed it, but the installation in the rear is not nearly >as clean as it would be on a 1985-86 car. Yea my stock did have way too much understeer. The installation parts that come from Suspension Tech. for the rear is fairly well made. Also I now have te brackets to weld on the sway bar connection points to strut housings that don't have them. > >On the upside, Toyota started >producing stripped cars in 1987 - no power accessories at all. This is >the car I have - it is considerably lighter than Dave A.'s silver 1986 car >(loaded). But these stripper cars had much cheaper (but lighter) seats >(comfortable, but nowhere near as good as the multi-adjustable seats), a >wimpy steering wheel with no wrapping, no rear center console, and cheap >carpeting. They also didn't have the side skirts or rear wings (unless >the person ordered these as an option). Many had steel wheels instead of >alloys (ugly!). My car started as a "stripper" and yes they are onsiderably lighter. >If you stumble across a low-mileage 1987-89 for >a good price, go for it. Just realize that it will take some work to make it as good as 1986 models. Also in '87 Toyota started using the S/C block and crank in the N/A cars. So if engine mods are your interest get an '87 or newer. >Lastly, a clean supercharged car would be >a good buy - they were 1988-89, but they aren't very common, and you'd be >starting with more horsepower and a lot more torque than I'm ever going to >have in mild street trim. > >Christopher T. Berchin John Welch '86 4-Runner '87 MR-2 Turbo '78 Triumph Spitfire xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 96 08:26:12 EST From: "Changming Tony Chung" To: Toyota-1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Toyota engine rebuild shop Hi guys: I own Mark III 86 1/2 Supra 7MGE motor. It is burning motor oil. I believe I need to rebore my engine block, and replace all the pistons' rings with oversize rings. I live in Queens, NYC. I looking for good a mechine shop, engine rebuild shop, or an experience toyota mechanic. I have the necessary equipments to remove my engine. -Tony Chung xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:35:43 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: Bill Sherwood Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MK1 Headers (final one I hope) > In any case, you are missing the point (as usual) - We all agree that a well > designed set of extractors WILL increase power, but perhaps at the expense > of power in other areas of the rev range, but - > The bottom line is - if you can't stop yourself from spending money on the > car, then put it into something that you KNOW will be of benefit - We KNOW > that extractors increase power, but perhaps at the expense of drivability, > and we KNOW that a light flywheel gives excellent results at all points. > For God's sake, how could it be more simple?? > > The B Man. > fact: lightened flywheels DO work.... <--- proven fact: installing headers DO improve acceleration and throttle response.. <--- proven quote " perhaps at the expense of driveability" <---- perhaps? oh well. I guess you didn't get the previous posts from other 4AGE owners claiming smoother throttle response. If someone wants more top end power for the drags... then so be it. If someone wants to race around the track with a stock motor, so be it. But here's the point you're missing. MAYBE WHAT YOU WANT, SOMEONE ELSE DOESN'T WANT. MAYBE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU, DOESN'T WORK FOR ANOTHER. Really simple, isn't it. So stop saying people are wasting their money, because they're not. what more is there to say.... spend money, get results WHERE and HOW you want them.... CASE CLOSED. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: "MR2 Digest (Normal)" , Subject: Calipers & Rotors Date: Thu, 16 May 96 07:41:00 PDT After seeing all the posts about coating headers on the Mods group. Has anyone thought about painting/coating their brake calipers/hub part of the rotors on the 93-95 MR2? I 'm sure you have seen the several models of Porsches with painted calipers that are color coated to the car. They sure look ugly in that gray color on the MR2 with the 5 spoke wheels exposing them. And the hub part of the brake rotors seem to rust even with whatever the factory coating is. And my car is garage kept and not driven in the rain or snow! Just a thought. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Header coating To: daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (G. D. Aucott) Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 10:48:58 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Aly wrote: > > > I've already had one response from Dave Aucott who says that he had > > his JetHot Coated and that he feels a difference over stock. On the other > > Somewhere the signals got crossed on this one! My header is out-of-the-box > uncoated metal. I don't recall ever saying it was coated... > > BTW, when I weighed the parts, the header weighs the same as the stock > manifold, so the savings you have is the weight of the flex pipe. Not enough > to justify $265 unless you are really scraping for weight savings... > > .............. > Dave A. > 1986 MR2 > Sorry, Dave. I thought I remembered reading that yours was coated. It did come chrome plated though, right? Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 11:06:09 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: buying a MK1 MR2 I thought of a couple things. The 1987 and 1988 MR2's also differ from each other in the engine area. My 1987 had the O2 sensor and EGR attachment in the header in that same locations as the 1985 and 1986 models. However, my 1988 had both of these relocated - thus, installing a TRD/Doug Thorley/ whoever-I'm-so-tired-of-header-discussion header can be done, but I had to do some serious "finessing" to get it to work. The TRD header, as sold, will bolt right up to a 1987 or order MR2. (I had to increase the length of the wire on my O2 sensor and bend the hell out of my EGR tube to make mine work.) I had also forgotten to include the internal changes to the 4AGE, but I believe those were covered a few months back. Lastly, in regards to the reply to my epic post regarding the rear suspension changes - yes, the supercharged car has more weight in the back, and thus by nature will oversteer more. Anyone who's driven an old 911 can vouch for the effects of more rear weight bias. :) Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:10:06 -0700 From: Gerald San Agustin To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: From Restrictor to Bleeder Lawrence M. Saccone Jr. wrote: > > Hello all, > I have decided to install my TVVC in the cockpit as opposed to in the > engine bay due to unreliable / unpredictable operation. Until yesterday > I had the TVVC hooked up as a restrictor to the actuator. I have heard > that setting it up as a bleeder to the atmos is better both operationally > and for installing. I don't like to drill through the fire wall *ever* so one > hole is better than two. I have placed a T connector inline in the hose > from the compressor housing to the actuator. The other hose goes to > the input side of the TVVC. After doing this, I am not able to get boost > higher than stock!!! Am I leaving something out?? ARGH!! Being the > boost junkie that I am (love anything over and above 15 psi) I'm goin > kwazzy! Any hints / help is greatly appreciated (as usual) > Larry S make sure there aren't any kinks of any kind. Also, what size hose are you using? You might not have enough air flow through the TVVC actuator hoses to actually bleed excess boost. The pressure is still going to the wastegate actuator. Try using a larger hose than you previously used. Also, the HKS VBC unit uses an orifice installed at the pressure source (ie - turbo compressor). It restricts some of the airflow so that the bleed capacity of the bleeder valve is balanced. One downfall is, boost creep will increase. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 12:08:57 -0400 To: 103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: geoff@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, geraldsa@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: From Restrictor to Bleeder .....whatever. Does anyone speak English? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Calipers & Rotors Date: Thu, 16 May 96 12:59:21 PDT >After seeing all the posts about coating headers on the Mods group. = Has >anyone thought about painting/coating their brake calipers/hub part of = the >rotors on the 93-95 MR2? I 'm sure you have seen the several models = of >Porsches with painted calipers that are color coated to the car. They = sure >look ugly in that gray color on the MR2 with the 5 spoke wheels exposing= >them. And the hub part of the brake rotors seem to rust even with whate= ver >the factory coating is. And my car is garage kept and not driven in = the >rain or snow! Just a thought. >Glenn Dysart >dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil >93 MR2 turbo >87 Corolla SR5 =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D I have red calipers on my Corolla GTS. They were sprayed with high temper= ature paint, the spray that I purchased gave a matt finnish which is a shame = but you can buy coloured calipers that have a gloss finnish and look better, i've= seen them about but have yet to find out who supplies them. As for the rotors I did the same as the calipers. If you just wish them to be coloured just spray them with a high temperat= ure spray paint, they do look a lot better than standard. You can probably = get hold of some high temperature gloss spray paint but I haven't found any. Hope this is helpful Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 105000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 15:49:05 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MK1 Headers (final one I hope) On Thu, 16 May 1996, Gerald San Agustin wrote: > fact: lightened flywheels DO work.... <--- proven > > fact: installing headers DO improve acceleration and throttle response.. <--- proven > > quote " perhaps at the expense of driveability" <---- perhaps? oh well. I guess you didn't get the previous > posts from other 4AGE owners claiming smoother throttle response. > > If someone wants more top end power for the drags... then so be it. If someone wants to race around the track > with a stock motor, so be it. But here's the point you're missing. MAYBE WHAT YOU WANT, SOMEONE ELSE DOESN'T > WANT. MAYBE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU, DOESN'T WORK FOR ANOTHER. Really simple, isn't it. So stop saying people are > wasting their money, because they're not. > > what more is there to say.... spend money, get results WHERE and HOW you want them.... > > CASE CLOSED. I can't wait to get my DT Headers... Getting a set for my '81 Celica 22R in June! Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Calipers & Rotors Date: Thu, 16 May 96 15:56:42 PDT I sprayed all the vents on the front disks; (all the rusty bits really). No you won't have much luck with spraying the braking area of the rotor. Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 105000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 16:31:21 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Vibration at 4000 rpm Hi, wondering if anyone out there has experienced this problem. I've got a 1981 Celica GT with the 22R engine. At engine speeds around 4000 rpm, there's an annoying buzzing coming from my gear shift lever. If I rev to 4300-4500 rpm it disappears and actually runs very smooth, albeit loudly ;) . Below 4000 rpm it quiet, no annoying resonances. Could it be worn engine/transmission mounts? Something else imbalanced? Thanks in advance for the advise... David xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ml36@cornell.edu Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 19:33:33 -0400 (EDT) To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> Cc: Dave Abitol , Subject: Re: Braking Noise On 16 May 1996, Lawrence M. Saccone Jr. wrote: > Last night I heard a noise that didn't exactly make me feel comfortable > about driving my car. This could have been going on for a while, because > last night was the first night in a while that I didn't have the radio blaring. > :-) > As I was braking moderately, I heard a thumping noise. No Idea what it was > but it sounded almost like there was a bump/gouge in the rotor. It was > almost 12 o'clock so I didn't pop the wheel off. I'll check it tonight. I was > just wondering if anyone out there had a similar problem. One of the rotors on my corolla recently warped and makes a noise like you describe. It also pulses the brake pedal like some kind of ABS system gone mad.. The pedal pulsing is the most noticeable, followed by the steering wheel shimmy and the noise. It occurs mostly during moderate braking from speeds above 45 mph or so. Mine were too thin to be turned down any further, so I've got a set of hardened rotors from Porterfield on the way... hope this helps diagnose your problem. -Mike Leary Ithaca NY 87 Corolla GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Brake Rotors To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:44:39 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Hi All, Has anyone had experience with rotors warping faster after they've been cut, as compared to when they are new? My rotors are warped on my MR2 and these rotors have never been cut (I put them on new last year). I just have a feeling that cut rotors will warp faster than new ones since there's less material for the heat to dissipate in. Any comments on this? Is it worth the money to cut rotors, or should I just buy new ones? Thanks :) Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 96 02:24:22 UT From: "Don Dressel" <1965GTO@msn.com> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: 1965gto@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Looking for 7MGE Engine Parts Maybe someone can tell me where I can locate a "good" used crankshaft or complete shortblock for my 87 Supra 7MGE Automatic. I've been searching the last month trying to locate either a reconditioned crankshaft or used crankshaft that needed polishing. I'm located in the Chicago area and have many feelers out, but no one has found a crankshaft that was reasonably priced: $75-175.00 is the going rate here. Let me know if anyone has any leads. Also, if anyone has any good tips on rebuilding this motor, please write. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:52:09 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Corolla GTS (AE86) rear in 78 Corolla I'm planning to put a Corolla GTS (AE86, Sprinter) rear end (entire thing, with brake assembly) in my 78 Corolla TE31. Any advice, comments, or problems foreseen? Has anyone done this transplant? I'm figuring to put in the GTS master cylinder and power booster. I'm wondering if I will need a proportioning valve. But then, the master cylinder is set up for 4-wheel discs, and it may not be needed. Another question: LSD is an option which I should be able to get for more $$. Those using it, it is worth it for street driving? I'm leaning in favor. I would like to hear your opinion. Thank you. Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:20:13 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: Toyota MODS , Subject: MK1, Ringing noise Hi all, I just bought my 88 MR2 a month ago. Well, there is this ringing noise (enggggggggg constantly) that seems to come from under my shift knob (center console). It does change pitch at all. Well, I decided to take off the center console and have a look the other day. What I found was that it seemed to come from the cover that fits over the fuel tank (Mk1 MR2's fuel tank is right under center console). Well, what is the source, how can i fix it and how much? Beside it being annoying it doesn't seem to effect anything else! Someone suggested that it was the fuel pump cause the noise, can this be and why if so? Well any help would be appreciated. Also I was wondering has anyone tried the All-Data CD-Rom repair manual? It only cost $29 or so compared to Toyota's which is $60. Thanks. P.S.-- Sorry about bringing up the question about the headers. Didn't mean to get everyone excited. I just wanted to know should I wrap them or not!!! Quihong email: quihong@orion.sfsu.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 21:56:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Phillip Dang To: Don Dressel <1965GTO@cyberspace.cyberauto.com> Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Looking for 7MGE Engine Parts Hi Don, On Fri, 17 May 1996, Don Dressel wrote: > Maybe someone can tell me where I can locate a "good" used crankshaft or > complete shortblock for my 87 Supra 7MGE Automatic. I've been searching the > Try connecting to Toyota Auto Parts (T.A.P.) at http://www.cwo.com/~tap/index.html where you should be able to get their phone number. The last time I checked this place, about a month back, their site was still under construction. To whoever is in charge of maintaing the FAQ, could you update this entry. Goodluck, Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 08:13:45 +0200 To: QUI HONG From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: MK1, Ringing noise Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Also I was wondering has anyone tried the All-Data CD-Rom repair manual? >It only cost $29 or so compared to Toyota's which is $60. >Thanks. > >P.S.-- Sorry about bringing up the question about the headers. Didn't mean >to get everyone excited. I just wanted to know should I wrap them or >not!!! > >Quihong email: quihong@orion.sfsu.edu > Re the all-data CD rom Please let me know also if anyone has ever received anything from this company....I start to believe that they only advertise but never deliver...... Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 13:42:09 +0200 To: cal@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Cal Smith) From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: SuperCoolers Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Maybe we can agree on this. Now, Dr. Chryssos...can we engineer and build it...? > >Cal Why not Cal??? We can talk about it for a while and who knows..... I am thinking of an easy system first, lets say we put a pair of T joints at the existing evaporator and connect via two electrically operated 2way valves either the standard evaporator or one mounted at the intercooler location. This will be a special intercooler with an incorporated freon expansion unit, after second thought, we can leave the stock intercooler in place for pre-cooling and attach the "special one" where the air tube no.2 is (the one leading from the intercooler to the throttle). We convert the stock alu tube to a freon expansion unit and we add another thermostat there as well. So with the flick of a switch we divert the stock airconditioning to provide additional cooling to the air out of the intercooler and into the plenum. The T's and the thermostat is no problem. But we have to design the "new tube" with some restrictions in size and some specifications in air flow and temp differences. Tricky but not impossible. Lets all think about it................ Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:02:42 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Rebuilt Clutches This may be old hat to some of you, but it's new to me so I thought I'd share it... I just located a clutch rebuilder here in the Detroit area (actually, there are three of them in the yellow pages) that will rebuild my MKI clutch -- surface, spring -- and set it up to whatever pressure I want!! I was thoroughly frustrated with HKS' price of $225 for a 1300lb pressure plate, and these guys will do it for $40!!!! Yee ha! They also will match the plate to the disk, give varying disk thicknessess for whatever you want... totally up to me! There is a max they can go with the spring, and it's somewhere around 1300, but this is great for my wallet. BTW, I have one of these rebuilt jobs in my MR2 right now, and it is great! I'm having the clutch rebuilt for my green car now... just dropped it off and I'll have it by lunch. What a deal... :):):) Oh, and in case you're wondering, he checked a stock plate for me and it's about 850 lb. .............. Dave A. 1986 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Corolla GTS (AE86) rear in 78 Corolla Date: Fri, 17 May 96 06:56:00 PDT Just curious how are you going to account for mounting the springs? Your 78 model has leaf springs, and the AE86 has coils. Glenn ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: Corolla GTS (AE86) rear in 78 Corolla Date: Thursday, May 16, 1996 8:52PM I'm planning to put a Corolla GTS (AE86, Sprinter) rear end (entire thing, with brake assembly) in my 78 Corolla TE31. Any advice, comments, or problems foreseen? Has anyone done this transplant? I'm figuring to put in the GTS master cylinder and power booster. I'm wondering if I will need a proportioning valve. But then, the master cylinder is set up for 4-wheel discs, and it may not be needed. Another question: LSD is an option which I should be able to get for more $$. Those using it, it is worth it for street driving? I'm leaning in favor. I would like to hear your opinion. Thank you. Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Brake Rotors Date: Fri, 17 May 96 07:05:00 PDT Aly, ever thought of using cross-drilled rotors? I friend of mine just replaced his rotors on his Honda accord with Brembo cross-drilled because the factory ones we're warped at 53K miles. He figured if he put factory one back on they might warp again. The factory rotors we're $104, while cheapo ones we're about $57 and the cross-drilled we're $70. He is real happy with their stopping ability. If you would like the names and numbers of people who sell them either look in the back of one the big car mags (C&D, R&T, etc.) or drop me an e-mail. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Cc: mr2-digest Subject: Brake Rotors Date: Thursday, May 16, 1996 8:44PM Hi All, Has anyone had experience with rotors warping faster after they've been cut, as compared to when they are new? My rotors are warped on my MR2 and these rotors have never been cut (I put them on new last year). I just have a feeling that cut rotors will warp faster than new ones since there's less material for the heat to dissipate in. Any comments on this? Is it worth the money to cut rotors, or should I just buy new ones? Thanks :) Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: reyb@wildcat.sandiegoca.ncr.com Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutches To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods) Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 07:39:50 -0700 (PDT) > > I was thoroughly frustrated with HKS' price of $225 for > a 1300lb pressure plate, and these guys will do it for > $40!!!! Yee ha! > I would think that the $225 price includes other items beside the pressure plate, right? At any rate, $40 seems like a great deal for a pressure plate that has 1300lbs of clamping power. -Rey- ======================================================== Rey Berin Phone: (619) 485-3285 NCR Corporation Fax: (619) 485-3010 17095 Via Del Campo San Diego, CA 92127 Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM ======================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: Re: Looking for 7MGE Engine Parts Date: Fri, 17 May 96 07:55:00 PDT Also check with these guys, they sell used Toyota Parts (800) 765-7100 Glenn xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Brake Rotors Date: Fri, 17 May 96 07:59:22 PDT >Hi All, > Has anyone had experience with rotors warping faster after they've >been cut, as compared to when they are new? My rotors are warped on my MR2 >and these rotors have never been cut (I put them on new last year). > I just have a feeling that cut rotors will warp faster than new ones >since there's less material for the heat to dissipate in. Any comments on >this? > Is it worth the money to cut rotors, or should I just buy new ones? > Thanks :) > Aly > '85 MR2 > abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu ================================================== I am still having problems with my brakes juddering. The trouble is it doesn't always judder, it can brake perfectly smoothly. When I first encountered this problem I changed the rotors for some very expensive standard Toyota ones. The problem seemed to go away for a while but within a few weeks had come back again. I really don't know what it could be. Someone did suggest it could be a warped hub or that the new disks have warped as well. Anyone any other ideas ??? thanks Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 105000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:29:30 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Jason McDonald Location : Los Angeles, CA Model : 1987 MR-2 N/A T-Top Engine : 4-AGE Naturally Aspirated Mods : Motor: 82mm forged pistons C/R 9.5:1 290 deg. Cams HKS Camshaft Pulleys TRD Crap header Dual 45DCOE Webers Welded, Milled, Ported Head Electromotive HPV1 Direct-Fire, crank triggered ignition Nitrous Oxide Suspension: Koni Yellow Adjustables Suspension Techniques Springs and Swaybars email : jasonm@ucla.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:54:29 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Brett Fraser's GT4 wish-list >Does anybody know if the 4AGZE? will fit in a Corolla GTS RWD? Same trans, etc? >I was whining to Chris a while ago about the lack of low end, and that would be >one way to get lots... (I'm watching for an SC MR2, very scarce, but lots of >NAs for sale) Well, in Japan, these cars came supercharged I believe, so I imagine you should have no problem doing it. Although, if you are planning on re-working the engine with stronger parts anyway, consider just using the 4AGE instead, and adding your supercharger to that. There isn't much difference between the motors. The Z motor is just a little beefier in the rods and piston department. Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:59:58 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Tire pressure again At 06:01 PM 5/13/96 -0700, you wrote: >I hate to kick this subject around some more but I just gotta be sure... >Everyone on this list seems to be in agreement that increasing tire >pressure increases grip, period (at least up to 45 psi). >I've been talking to a racer who's had a lot more experience than I, and >he agrees that increasing tire pressures does increase grip...but only at >slower speeds (according to him, this is about 60-70 mph). At higher >velocities, this is not the case. Centripetal force causes the >mid-section of the tires to bulge out more, which reduces road contact of >the tread. With higher pressures, this is more noticeable and causes a >"bouncy" feeling. This effect is increased on high profile tires. So is >he right? This would explain the differences between what I have >experienced and what everyone else on the list believes. > >Later, >Micky >'89 SC MR2 > NO WAY! increasing your tire pressure that much will definitely reduce grip. By inflating your tires that much, they will definitely bulge in the center thereby reducing contact patch. What you are feeling is crisper and easier turning due to the stiffer sidewall and smaller patch. You are definitely losing grip tho, try popping your clutch and see how easily your tires will spin. I reccomend sticking within +/- 5 psi of stock, and only use your tire pressure to attempt to compensate for over/under steer. Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: daucott@e-mail.com Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 13:02:18 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutch *** Resending note of 05/17/96 11:43 >I would think that the $225 price includes other items >beside the pressure plate, right? At any rate, $40 >seems like a great deal for a pressure plate that >has 1300lbs of clamping power. Actually, according to my catalog (which is a couple years old) the pressure plate alone is $225. I don't have my catlog with me, but I believe the "Clutch Kit" which includes the disk and throwout bearing is in the $300 range, maybe $285. Does anyone have up to date pricing? At any rate, it's expensive. Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 13:15:32 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Jacking back in... Heh, bet some of you guys thought I went flatline... Well, I'm back on, finally. Wife + 2 kids + job + business + National Guard + etc = Stack Overflow. Don't worry, the 22R rebuild effort is going well. I've been keeping good notes and will be posting them asap, PLUS I've been taking pictures and will be scanning everything into the TM web site. Oh, so this won't be a total WOB...Excellent article in Circle Track magazine on spark plug wires. They took 12 sets of wires, everything from elCheapo OEM replacement wires to Nologies, and installed them on a moderatedly tuned (~415hp) SB Chevy (one set at a time, of course.) First they found the peak hp rpm with the stock wires. Then, they changed nothing but the plug wires and checked the HP at the same peak hp rpm (5000 rpm). Result? In a nutshell, NO DIFFERENCE! Now, lets address a few minor issues. I feel that they could have eeked out a few more HP out of the performance wire sets by toying with the gap and timing (as opposed to the stock wires.) Plus, this doesn't address what would happen on really high rpm (8000 rpm plus) really high compression ratio/forced injection situations (the engine was 9.5:1 NA). However, what I hope it will impress folks with is that dumping a zillion bucks on a set of Nology's for the daily driver may not benefit you what you might have thought! On the other hand, I still feel that the performance increase available from a moderately priced set of performance wires (such as Accel, Magnecor, NGK, or Taylor), combined with those wires ability to provide much longer service, make them a very wise investment on a performance oriented vehicles. Gotta run, more soon. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:18:02 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Jacking back in... >From: Chris Myer >Oh, so this won't be a total WOB...Excellent article in Circle Track >magazine on spark plug wires. They took 12 sets of wires, everything >from elCheapo OEM replacement wires to Nologies, and installed them on >a moderatedly tuned (~415hp) SB Chevy (one set at a time, of course.) >First they found the peak hp rpm with the stock wires. Then, they changed >nothing but the plug wires and checked the HP at the same peak hp rpm >(5000 rpm). Result? In a nutshell, NO DIFFERENCE! It would also (in addition to the fact that they left the gaps stock) could be that if they already have a good ignition system, the car was already getting all the spark it needed to effectively burn the fuel. Then a lower resistance wire wouldn't make a difference. However, if your ignition is somewhat marginal, then a lower resistance (ie performance plug wire set) would allow more voltage to get to the plug, thereby increasing spark intensity and increasing power and efficiency. Hey Chris, did they have an aftermarket ignition in there? Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:53:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 4AGZE On Fri, 17 May 1996, Jason McDonald wrote: > >Does anybody know if the 4AGZE? will fit in a Corolla GTS RWD? Same trans, etc? > >I was whining to Chris a while ago about the lack of low end, and that would be > >one way to get lots... (I'm watching for an SC MR2, very scarce, but lots of > >NAs for sale) > > Well, in Japan, these cars came supercharged I believe, so I imagine you The 4AGZE only came after 1988 or so in the FWD Sprinter/Trueno, I think. By that time the RWD Corolla's had finished their run. Probably fits though. > re-working the engine with stronger parts anyway, consider just using the > 4AGE instead, and adding your supercharger to that. There isn't much > difference between the motors. The Z motor is just a little beefier in the > rods and piston department. > The 4AGZE also has a stronger crank and reinforced block, making it a favorite to build up on. Brett is right about the lack of SC's around. But there were at least 2 or 3 around the area last time I checked. The one that caught my eye was a silver '88 SC with only 55k for around $6800, but it was an automatic. -Jayson Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 17:00:11 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Jacking back in... > It would also (in addition to the fact that they left the gaps stock) could > be that if they already have a good ignition system, the car was already > getting all the spark it needed to effectively burn the fuel. Then a lower > resistance wire wouldn't make a difference. However, if your ignition is > somewhat marginal, then a lower resistance (ie performance plug wire set) > would allow more voltage to get to the plug, thereby increasing spark > intensity and increasing power and efficiency. Hey Chris, did they have > an aftermarket ignition in there? Good point, Dave. The ignition system consisted of a MSD Billet HEI distributor ignition set at 35 degrees of _total_ advance. Plugs were NGK's gapped to .035", except for one set of solid wire plugs who's manufacturer recommended Bosch Platinum (also gapped at .035".) A good point that a good set of plug wires can give a huge boost to a stock ignition system. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 17:27:39 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: CIPHeR Celica GT-R Subject: celica air damn!!! Cc: leongc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hey you guys... i'm wondering if anyone knows of any quality looking body kits for an 86-89 celica. i don't necessarily want a spoiler, i'm talking about the front air dam, side skirts and rear thing...(valance?- is that what it's called?) i got into an accident the other day. it was late at night and i was on my way home, when a stupid ass cat ran across the street. i wasnt able to stop in time because my cross drilled rotors arent in yet, and since my car is low, the damn thing couldnt go under my car. dammit, the cat took off the right side of my air dam and shattered one of my Piaa lights. piece of sh@#$*!!!!!!! now i need a new air dam ASAP, so i was considering a front endpiece from a body kit or something (got any suggestions for brands?) or i'll even be interested in the stock plastic air dam from a 86-89 celica... if anyone has any suggestions please let me know, because my car looks horrible right now! also, if anyone is selling PIAA 1000 or 1200 series lights for less than $140, pls email back or gimme a call! thanks... antonio celica GT-R aponton@concentric.net Voicemail: (408)581-7608 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Pete M. Wilson" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 18:01:01 -5 Subject: Re: 286 CPU's A lurker speaks! :-) > It has ocurred to me to have water temp, oil temp, lateral G, mpg > readings, accelleration, brake temp, exhaust temp, knock sensor, and > whatever else I can find and write code for. > This information could possibly be displayed by way of HUD, if > brought to that extent, but a normal readout would be perfectly adequate. > > Any ideas and or feedback would be appreciated. > Along the same lines, but not as engine/maintenance oriented, any suggestions on a trip computer add-on? I had a J.C Whitney/Zemco Trip Computer put in a my MR-2 shortly after I got it, and it provided instantaneous MPG, Fuel Used, Fuel Remaining, instantaneous speed, Distance since last fill-up, current time, distance to empty (based on instantaneous MPG), time to empty (based on instantaneous MPG and Speed), Distance on trip, time on trip, fuel on trip, average MPG on trip, average speed on trip, distance to go, time to go. It left out a lot of things I wanted. It was based on a little 8-bit Z80 in a tiny display box. Unfortunately, it crashes when my car heats up in the sun now, and Zemco appears to be gone, and JC Whitney doesn't have anything as good. So, while you're putting that '286 in, consider the ultimate trip computer. I'd add a compass input, maybe a temperature input and compute some more stuff - avarages over trip, over last 5 & 10 minutes, multiple way-points (planned stops), average speed not counting stops, etc. And if anyone knows something like this already out there, or even something close to what I had, I'd like to hear about that too! Pete M. Wilson wilsonpm@ns.gamewood.net Systems & Network Analyst Danville Regional Medical Center (804) 799-4570 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 18:55:03 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: trip computer (was: Re: 286 CPU's) On Fri, 17 May 1996, Pete M. Wilson wrote: > I had a J.C Whitney/Zemco Trip Computer put in a my MR-2 shortly after I > got it, and it provided instantaneous MPG, Fuel Used, Fuel Remaining, > instantaneous speed, Distance since last fill-up, current time, distance > to empty (based on instantaneous MPG), time to empty (based on > instantaneous MPG and Speed), Distance on trip, time on trip, fuel on > trip, average MPG on trip, average speed on trip, distance to go, time to > go. It left out a lot of things I wanted. It was based on a little 8-bit > Z80 in a tiny display box. Unfortunately, it crashes when my car heats up > in the sun now, and Zemco appears to be gone, and JC Whitney doesn't have > anything as good. > And if anyone knows something like this already out there, or even > something close to what I had, I'd like to hear about that too! I saw something like this in the JC Whitney/Warshawski's catalog years and years ago and never since. I'd love to get one tho. Even if it's not "perfect" just for the fuel remaining and instant MPG. - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623 Road racers go in deep and come out hard. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 20:49:46 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: Brain Surgery Hello List! Long time no speak. Hope somebody can help me out with a recurring problem with the 84 Celica GT Hatchback,auto trans. About 6 months ago the car became gradually harder to start, intermittant stalling till one day she would start no more. There was a distinct smell of gas in the air. Flooding you say? Me too! Why? After an hour or so of diagnosis I determined that all of the injectors where firing at the same time. Hmmmm...What the hell is that all about? Another hour or so of looking over the wiring diagrams lead me nowhere so I decided to do brain surgery on the old gal. While pulling the organ out from the glove box cavity I heard what sounded like a couple of BB's rolling around in the brain box. I opened it and found one transistor looking thingamabob and a small piece of solder rolling around. Did'nt think that was the way it came from the factory so I replaced the the brain with a $125 used one from the used organ donor yard. Not bad for a whole brain Huh! She's been doin fine in rehab for the last 6 months but has just recently had a relapse back to her prior condition. Once again she'll go under the knife but I'm hoping some of my colleagues on this list may have an answer to my problem. Oh, while she has been bedridden she has benn replaced by a 1 owner (woman), cherry, 82 Celica GT coupe with all the goodies, with only 201k on the clock. Excellent buy for a grand! The Sunchaser rebuild should be complete in a week or so. I'll post later in this issue. Please help if you can on the brain surgery problem, rumor is toyota may be filing a malpractice suit on me. Later! Chris W Morgan 1979 Celica Sunchaser 1982 Celica GT Coupe 1984 Celica GT Hatchback 1985 Celica GTS Convertable celicag@magicnet.net Chris W Morgan 1995 Suzuki GSXR 750 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 18:10:17 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: buying a MK1 MR2 I find a lot of problems with this post. Not sure if I get that one '87 MR2 that rolled off the line with all the goodies or what, but here goes.... > >I thought I'd throw my personal opinion on this subject out there. I own >a 1988 MR2 that I purchased somewhat uninformed. In fact, I bought it a >great deal uninformed. Had I to do it over again, I would still have bought >my car (it only had 27,000 miles on it - it has 38,000 now and is rust-free), >but I would recommend getting a 1986 or a 1985, in that order. In 1987, >Toyota completely changed the rear suspension geometry - the attachment points >for the rear anti-sway bar were eliminated from the shock carriers, and the >suspension bits are totally different from the 1985 and 1986 models. My '87 has no rear sway bar, but all the mounting points, including the shock carrier tabs were in place. My ST bars bolted right in, although I find the rear way too small for my tastes. >prior to the 1985 models.) Toyota also apparently stiffened the front >springs on the car. All of this (from what I understand) was done as Since many people change to aftermarket springs which usually show application year as 85-89, and not 85-86, and 87-89, I don't see this as a problem. >for my car has transformed it, but the installation in the rear is not nearly >as clean as it would be on a 1985-86 car. Mine looks like its factory, except for all the blue powder coating :^) >On the upside, Toyota started >producing stripped cars in 1987 - no power accessories at all. This is >the car I have - it is considerably lighter than Dave A.'s silver 1986 car >(loaded). But these stripper cars had much cheaper (but lighter) seats >(comfortable, but nowhere near as good as the multi-adjustable seats), a >wimpy steering wheel with no wrapping, no rear center console, and cheap >carpeting. They also didn't have the side skirts or rear wings (unless I have adjustable seats, lumbar, tilt, etc. etc.; Rear center console, and my carpeting seems fine, but I have not compared. Mine also came with a rear wing with square third brake lamp, the nice front valance, and no ugly black bumpers. I did not get the side skirts tho, but I like the look without them. >the person ordered these as an option). Many had steel wheels instead of >alloys (ugly!). I ended up buying a loaded 1987 car that was the same OK, ya got me here, the steel wheels are horribly ugly and lose their paint easily too making it even worse. But after all, its more incentive to buy those 16x7 alloys :^) >color as mine and pirating the seats, wheels, rear console/carpeting, side >skirts, mud flaps, rear wing, front trunk trim, and steering wheel for >my low-mile car. Yes, I added some weight, but my personal enjoyment of >the vehilce has increased a great deal. Seeing as the entire upgrade only >cost me $300, I figure it was money well-spent. > Next time you find an 87 for $300 GIVE ME A CALL!! All in all, I did research it a bit before buying my 87 and the 87 is exactly the year I wanted. I wanted a "stripped" version because all I care about is power locks, and I picked up some factory solenoids from the junkyard for cheap. The windows add weight, and the mirrors are unnecessary. I planned on changing springs, swaybars and wheels anyway so that took care of that. I like the look of the 87 much more than that of the earlier cars, but that personal taste I guess. But a major reason for choosing the 87 was..............T-TOPS! yes, thats right folks, nothing like cruising pacific coast highway with the tops off. Reminds me of my porsche 914. Well, hope my opinion offered you some additional help in your decision making. Jason McDonald jasonm@ucla.edu 1987 White MR2 T-Top xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 18:10:20 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: MK1, Ringing noise At 08:20 PM 5/16/96 -0700, you wrote: >Hi all, > >I just bought my 88 MR2 a month ago. Well, there is this ringing noise >(enggggggggg constantly) that seems to come from under my shift knob (center >console). It does change pitch at all. Well, I decided to take off the >center console and have a look the other day. What I found was that it >seemed to come from the cover that fits over the fuel tank (Mk1 MR2's >fuel tank is right under center console). Well, what is the source, how >can i fix it and how much? Beside it being annoying it doesn't seem to >effect anything else! Someone suggested that it was the fuel pump cause >the noise, can this be and why if so? Well any help would be appreciated. OK, I had this problem coming from the engine compartment. It turned out to be a washer on the shift cable connecting point to the shift levers. It was spinning from vibration and making a ringing noise. VERY ANNOYING! The way this relates to your situation is this.... Under that center console plastic, your shift cables connect to your shifter in much the same way. If you are missing the plastic bushing that goes in one of those cable ends, or if you just have too much play, the same thing may be happening. Jason McDonald jasonm@ucla.edu 1987 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: me/mine/mods To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR. celica GT-R) Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 19:36:30 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Antonio asked for some info. on my car. Well here goes. Sorry for not replying any sooner, but the last thing I want to do after coming home from work is turning on the computer.(I sit in front of the computer all day). CLifford ARrow alarm with perimeter sensor, auto lock/unlock,etc PIAA 959s (I switch the lenses for 910's in summer), AEroform body kit, Borla exhaust w/Sebring tip. 16" TSW Stealths (not chrome, :-) ) w/ 215/40/16 P700's, HKS POwerflow. ANd I also took the driver's side wiper off, and raised the passenger side's :-) I'm still looking for a suspension system, I just don't have the time to go to the store. I know what I want though. I will definitely NOT get Intrax. And yes, all Koni's are adjustable. They don't have a setting like Illumina's though, It's more like a dial so that you can fine tune the setting. Some Koni's from what I hear are also height adjustable, but I think they're not for our car, from what I hear. I plan to also get cross-drilled rotors as mine are totally f**ked. Right now they give a really bad howling noise when I brake from 100km/h, worse when going down a hill. As for the short-shift kit, I asked some guy about it long ago, but C's should offer a kit for our purposes, hopefully :-). Lastly, I'll probably get the sway bar kit from ST, and slap on a wing. BTW, my car's a coupe, so I think a wing should suit just nicely. Later... Forgot to say I live in Vancouver, in Canada. Richard '86 Celica GTS leongc@sfu.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: brake problems To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 19:44:19 -0700 (PDT) HI all, since we're on the subject of late, I'll share my problems too. The problem usually occurs when I drive at more than 90 or 100km/h and then use the brakes. I only have to press on the brakes lightly and I could hear a sort of faint noise and maybe some grab in the pedal. It is even worse going down a hill. Someone told me the rotors are warped. It can't be the pads because there's at least 50% left on them, and the rotors don't have any grooves in it. I guess they're warped huh? BTW, has anybody got cross-drilled rotors, performance calipers, or steel-braided brake hoses on their car? I'd like to know how they perform. As for steel-braided hoses, some guy told me that they're not DOT approved, so when I get in an accident, the insurance might not kick in. Maybe for that particular brand I guess, anyways. I live in Canada so I figure stuff like this might be harder to get. Richard '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 00:33:03 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: CIPHeR Celica GT-R Subject: Re: Corolla GTS (AE86) rear in 78 Corolla > LSD is an option which I should be able to get for more >$$. Those using it, it is worth it for street driving? I'm leaning in >favor. I would like to hear your opinion. > >Thank you. > >Monte i dont think it would be advisable to drive under the influence of LSD or any other drug. MSD ignition, however, works quite well. -antonio celica GT-R aponton@concentric.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: pitaro@ozemail.com.au Date: Fri, 17 May 96 23:58:05 To: Subject: Tokico Struts Hi all, It appears that most people are using Tokico adjustable struts. I can't seem to locate a supplier here in Australia for them. Does anyone know of someone local that sells Tokico. Also, how do the Tokico struts compare to Koni adjustable struts? I can get these here for about $1100 installed. This seems a little high to me. Can anyone help me with a supplier of these if they are better than the Tokico's. Thanks in advance, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary H To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: buying a MK1 MR2 or Mitsu Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 02:30:44 -0700 aly abulkheir wrote: |Please pardon my non -toyota/non-mr2 question, but does anyone have any info |on what the best year for a Mitsubishi Starion/Chrysler Conquest was? Also, |any info on this car in general would be appreciated. If I buy one, I don't |want to make a mistake like the one above. I was lucky with the MR2, and |would like to make as good a choice if I buy a Conquest. If anyone has this |car, or shares an interest in it, that would be even better. I can't seem |to find an internet listing for it. | | Please email me direct since this is not a toyota related question. | | Thanks :) | Aly | '85 MR2 | Email: abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu | |PS, Please note that I would never sell my MR2 if I bought a Conquest, nor |am I suggesting in the least that the Conquest is as cool a car as the MR2. Aly, Those Mitsu Conquest where the cars I drooled for in the mid 80s. The nice fat fenders (like the Celica GTS sort of and the Supra Mk2), the nice alloy wheels (like the Celica and Supra Alloys)... they were nice! They sort of remind me of my E30 M3. Anyways, I raced one in my 82 Celica GT and I lost bad in front of my girlfriend! Luckily, the guy in the conquest was my girlfriend's friend's boyfriend so it was sort of a friendly run. The guy took off like I was standing still in that 90 HP Celica of mine. Good choice of used cars Aly. Only thing, the conquest are expensive to fix! Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: EXPORTER@delphi.com Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 09:44:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: Header wrap warning To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com There is no better lesson learned than from experience . some times the lessons learned can be costly. About a year or two I hear about header wrapping from thermo-tec read about the performance advantages and theory behind it and it all made sense to me. Besides my floor board got so hot at times it literally started to melt the heel of my sneaker when I drove for a long period of time especially when sitting in traffic at an idle. So of course it sounded like a great idea to wrap the header. And I did, it worked great. (but wait it gets worse) Now keep in mind that this car is only driven on weekends and to races and out of the rain if I can help it. It spends the winters in a nice warm garage. This car is lucky to see 4,000 in a year (I'm guessing could be much less). It's a 76 Celica ST coupe with well over 200 H.P. 20-R motor. I have had this header over 10 year and always took good car of it. never let it rust . I used this stainless steel pigment brush on paint for years from a company called Bill Hersh that worked better than any spray hot temp paint from V.H.T. This header was a 4 into 1 design ( top end power ) that I bought light years ago from a company called Cliffort. and of course no is discontinued like many other parts for these cars. Well, since I added the header wrapping it has cracked twice. the first time it was a small crack about mid-way down the #3 tube. I figured well it's and old header maybe the torque of the engine finally cracked it. It was small so I mig-welded it . checked out the rest of the header. It looked like the day a bought it. So I got more wrap and put it back on. About two months later I heard another leak. Unwrapped it again only to find that this time there was cracks all over the # 1 & 2 pipes, so bad this time that # 2 diameter was deformed a the first bend (unrepairable). I checked the inside of the pipe to see if rust may have been the cause of the killing of my pipes but the inside was fine. The inside surface was nice and smooth while the outside you could actually see the scale, flaking, discoloration from the heat causing the metal breakdown. What a bummer!!! This was a nice header and I'll never be able to get the same one, Ouch!! Being and auto parts dealer I was able to locate one for pacesetter TRD is a bit higher in cost ever for a dealer. I have not got the pacesetter one yet to see what it looks like but I will let you know. anyone who need to find parts for these old Celicas drop me a line. See ya!! Rick Dormoi exporter@delphi.com T & R Auto Parts xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 15:39:56 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: freon and tools in Detroit, MI? I'm looking for some place to buy some freon in Detroit, MI. I have to buy it in at least a 20lb container, so... does anyone have 2 lbs or so that I can buy, or if I buy a full-sized bottle, does anyone need a few pounds (at the averaged per/pound cost)? Also, I am in need of some a/c gauges - Snap-On, Mac, etc. quality. Anyone in the Southern Michigan area who can point me in the right direction for the gas and the tools, I'd appreciate it much. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 2X CD-ROM burner - Feel The Burn xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tony Lanterman Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 23:01:12 -0700 (PDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Baby Gone My baby has been stolen right out of my carport. There yesterday and gone today. I have a strong desire to use something a little stronger than a ratan on the guy who did this. Since I've vented a bit now, does anybody have an idea on the best place to put a starter-disable switch on an '83 Celica? The cops have a 90% find rate on Toyotas so I'll probably get her back (the condition she'll be in is another matter), and I don't want this to happen again. Since my motorcycle is 45 miles away I'll be using a apir of Nike's for transport for awhile. This sucks. Very Pissed, Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 02:01:02 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fjo@escape.ca (Fred Oberbuchner) Subject: Anybody have these injectors around? I am looking to get higher-flow injectors for my 4A-GE Corolla GTS. I would like to gey my hands on 4 of the following: Connector type E color R flow test pressure valve hole engine [ohm] cc/min kg/cm^2 ========================================================================== reddish-orange 2.9 365 2.55 ball (2) 4A-GZE These are out of the 4A-GZE so I thought if there is anyone out there who maybe upgraded their Supercharged MR2 and had these kicking around, I could liberate them from you?????? I would rather not go out and spend a fortune as this is kind of an experiment so I figured I'd try this way first.... come to think of it, I seem to remember Chris M. mentioning something about having a good (and cheap!) source of refurbed injectors awhile back..... CHRIS? ARE YOU OUT THERE??? Thanks all, Fredo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 19 May 96 03:32:13 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Air Intake Kit What's better, an air intake kit from either HKS or Greddy, or the K&N IPK? I know that the K&N one is much more affordable, but I noticed that they use different filtering elements. Which one would yield more horsepower? Thanks in advance. Alex 91 Yellow MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 12:49:12 +0200 To: From: Chris Orasch Subject: Aeroware body kit Does anybody on this list have the Aeroware body kit on his MKII MR2? If so, please let me know!! Chris christof@net4you.co.at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 15:11:16 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: TOYOTA Repair Manuals Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I have obtained the MR2 91, 93 and 95 Repair Manuals and since I am involved with a transaxle mod recently I am consulting all three of them. So far so good, I have found out that the 93 one is far more helpful that the 91 or the 95, which 95 has been shrunk into a one volume by deleting all the assy steps. You get the dissy ones and told to reverse order them for assy. Saves paper OK. But...The 91 manual calls for use once parts that on dissy/assy you MUST use new ones. and comparing the three above year manuals, some use-once parts are mentioned in all three of them, but the 93 manual includes additional use-once's and the 95 includes even more. The interesting thing is that those parts are the same since 91 without any P/N change through the years. Has Toyota found, out that some additional parts must be replaced every time an disassy/assy takes place, now in 1995/96 in which case the 91 or 93 instructions may be or are wrong and to what effect does this reflect to the reliability of the "car" you entrust your life in? (am I taking this question too far............) Just to be safe, I will use the latest information, we say here " I did not know better then..." and replace ALL the called for parts in the 95 manual. Safety is the cheapest insurance !! Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Baby Gone To: lantera@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Tony Lanterman) Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 11:19:31 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > anybody have an idea on the best place to put a > starter-disable switch on an '83 Celica? The cops have a 90% > find rate on Toyotas so I'll You could get an alarm system with starter disable and even a fuel cutoff option. That way it's not going anywhere. Then again, i wasn't sure if you had an alarm in mind.. Richard leongc@sfu.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: celica air damn!!! To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR Celica GT-R) Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 11:33:39 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Hey you guys... > i'm wondering if anyone knows of any quality looking body kits for an 86-89 celica. i don't necessarily want a spoiler, i'm talking about the front air dam, side skirts and rear thing...(valance?- is that what it's called?) i got into an accident the other day. it was late at night and i was on my way home, when a stupid ass cat ran across the street. i wasnt able to stop in time because my cross drilled rotors arent in yet, and since my car is low, the damn thing couldnt go under my car. dammit, the cat took off the right side of my air dam and shattered one of my Piaa lights. piece of sh@#$*!!!!!!! now i need a new air dam ASAP, so i was considering a front endpiece from a body kit or something (got any suggestions for brands?) or i'll even be i nterested in the stock plastic air dam from a 86-89 celica... if anyone has any suggestions please let me know, because my car looks horrible right now! > also, if anyone is selling PIAA 1000 or 1200 series lights for less than $140, pls email back or gimme a call! > thanks... > > antonio > celica GT-R > aponton@concentric.net > Voicemail: (408)581-7608 > You're in luck. I would suggest a body kit from Erebuni or Aeroform (mine). The only thing I like about the Erebuni version is that it has one of those front spoilers that has holes in it for fog lights. So when you put it on, it looks like a '86-'90 Supra when you put fog lights on. HOw do I know? Because there's an '86 or '87 Celica where I got my kit put on with the Erebuni body kit. He put PIAA 940's or something on them so they're fog and driving lights. VEry nice. HIs car even looks better than mine. Anyways, the Erebuni version requires the bottom plastic, spoiler to be removed before you can attach the front spoiler. Which I think is better in your case. Erebuni comes with the usual front and rear bumper spoilers and skirts, but I really think Aeroform has a better looking fit, besides the front bumper. Aeroform's front and rear bumpers wrap around the original bumper so that when you get in an accident, they go first. The Erebuni version of the rear valance only wraps around the bottom part of the rear bumper, same with the front. Hey, maybe get an AErofrom kit all around, and then just the Erebuni for the front. I considered that option. THen you can have your pIAAs next to the license plate and also fog lights on the outsides. :-) One problem though, Aeroform' version is very old, came out in 1988 or something, so you might have trouble sourcing it. Erebuni is new though. Just tell me if you are interested in either or any others and I'll give you the numbers or addresses. Later Richard leongc@sfu.ca '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: celica air damn!!! To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR Celica GT-R) Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 11:37:20 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Hey you guys... > i'm wondering if anyone knows of any quality looking body kits for an 86-89 celica. i don't necessarily want a spoiler, i'm talking about the front air dam, side skirts and rear thing...(valance?- is that what it's called?) i got into an accident the other day. it was late at night and i was on my way home, when a stupid ass cat ran across the street. i wasnt able to stop in time because my cross drilled rotors arent in yet, and since my car is low, the damn thing couldnt go under my car. dammit, the cat took off the right side of my air dam and shattered one of my Piaa lights. piece of sh@#$*!!!!!!! now i need a new air dam ASAP, so i was considering a front endpiece from a body kit or something (got any suggestions for brands?) or i'll even be i nterested in the stock plastic air dam from a 86-89 celica... if anyone has any suggestions please let me know, because my car looks horrible right now! > also, if anyone is selling PIAA 1000 or 1200 series lights for less than $140, pls email back or gimme a call! > thanks... > > antonio > celica GT-R > aponton@concentric.net > Voicemail: (408)581-7608 > Forgot to mention that the Aeroform covers up the old bumper TOTALLY, so if there's crap or rust or what not on the original bumper, no one would know. Oh, why don't you buy replacement lenses instead of new lights? Richard leongc@sfu.ca '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:34:41 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: Tony Lanterman Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Baby Gone On Sat, 18 May 1996, Tony Lanterman wrote: > My baby has been stolen right out of my carport. There yesterday > and gone today. I have a strong desire to use something a little > stronger than a ratan on the guy who did this. Since I've vented > a bit now, does anybody have an idea on the best place to put a > starter-disable switch on an '83 Celica? The cops have a 90% Downer - hope you find her ok. I had my KE-25 stolen three years ago - got it back with a few fresh dints :( Hopefully they don't take yours scrub bashing... I now have two kill switches - one for the coil which earths it out (this is better than one which disconnects just the power as it is easy to feed a wire from the battery directly to the coil - very rarely would some-one think to remove the existing wires) and another for the fuel pump. Hide the switch under the dash, in the glovebox, in the boot, under the seat, wherever you feel it is best hidden but easy to access. Some friends have about 5 switches all over the place so even if one is found, they may not get the others :) Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tony Lanterman Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 23:06:32 -0700 (PDT) To: lantera@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, paulp@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Baby Gone Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >I now have two kill switches - one for the coil which earths it out (this >is better than one which disconnects just the power as it is easy to feed a >wire from the battery directly to the coil - very rarely would some-one >think to remove the existing wires) and another for the fuel pump. Hide >the switch under the dash, in the glovebox, in the boot, under the seat, >wherever you feel it is best hidden but easy to access. Some friends have >about 5 switches all over the place so even if one is found, they may not >get the others :) > Paul. I hadn't thought of grounding the coil. A friend and I had come up with the idea of a switch for the fuel pump while I was drowning my sorrows last night. On a carbed car won't this let them use the fuel in the carb float bowls before going dead? Since the alarm didn't seem to do a damned thing this looks like a solution. Assuming I do in fact get the car back of course. Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1983 Celica ST * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 20 May 96 09:33:44 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Dave Abitol Cc: "Steve B." , Subject: Overheating Well, as yesterday was the first REAL spring day here in New York, that must mean that it's time for another problem ;-) As you can most likely tell from the title of this letter, my car decided that it didn't like the hot weather yesterday. At first I thought it was air in the line, but I think I bled the system properly, and found that not to be the case. I had let the car run for 3 minutes at a time while filling the coolant, but even after this it was overheating. I noticed that I had no heat. :-( Thermostat?? I think it's on the bottom of the engine!!! So I probably have to bleed it again. I don't think the car took on as much coolant as it should have, has anyone out there had to do this yet? The book says it's supposed to hold 14.4 quarts? Anyway, any hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Later Larry S. 91' MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Mon, 20 May 96 07:48:39 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re[2]: Jacking back in... The other thing I don't think they evaluated is reliability and longevity. Will a connector pull off the first time you try to change the plugs. Will the wires misfire when its humid. Will heat or vibration cause a decrease performance. But it is nice to know that fresh wires are all the same. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Jacking back in... Author: Chris Myer at INTERNET-HUB Date: 5/17/96 4:35 PM > It would also (in addition to the fact that they left the gaps stock) could > be that if they already have a good ignition system, the car was already > getting all the spark it needed to effectively burn the fuel. Then a lower > resistance wire wouldn't make a difference. However, if your ignition is > somewhat marginal, then a lower resistance (ie performance plug wire set) > would allow more voltage to get to the plug, thereby increasing spark > intensity and increasing power and efficiency. Hey Chris, did they have > an aftermarket ignition in there? Good point, Dave. The ignition system consisted of a MSD Billet HEI distributor ignition set at 35 degrees of _total_ advance. Plugs were NGK's gapped to .035", except for one set of solid wire plugs who's manufacturer recommended Bosch Platinum (also gapped at .035".) A good point that a good set of plug wires can give a huge boost to a stock ignition system. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:39:39 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: brake rotor size-Corolla GTS (AE86) Would someone with a Corolla GTS (Sprinter, AE86) '85-'87 please measure the diameter of the brake rotors for front and back? Thank you very much for your effort. Still working on my '78 TE31 project. Will report back plenty of detail when its done. Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Mon, 20 May 96 12:57:26 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Headers (4AG) To the list, I have written about the problems with headers on otherwise standard EFI's before and some people have written back to me saying that they dont consider the O2 sensor giving small false reading a problem after all the engine will run a bit rich wont it. The facts are my worse than this, in some cases putting extractors on car WILL make the standard EFI idle low and stall after a long period of time! On the AE86 and AE82 with the SINGLE wire OX notice the thickness of the manifold, the position of the sensor and the fibre glass and heatshielding. It is there for a purpose and if you use a header you may get a 'hunting' idle. In fact its not running rich, it runs lean to begin with, then ok, then rich, then hunts then stalls (takes several minutes some times). I know because I have watched my header. If you have a light flywheel and small cams it magnfiies the action and often brings the MAP sensor into play (for those countries where the 4AG has such a sensor). To stop the car stalling you need to fully heat wrap the extractor down to the collector and wrap the sensor and install a 1K linear variable pot in the water heater circuit. (Mine needs about .5K at 20C) and adjust the idle speed. Idealy you should use a heated exhaust probe as the position of the OX sensor in extractors is not ideal and sometimes it is a bit slow reading. Thanks to Bill S for his new OX sensor for the tests (yes Bill I will return it when I get a new one). FYI the OX sensor cars still have most of the factory idle mixture adjustment inside the ECU. It looks like all you need to do is fit a capacitor that the factory leaves out. Has anyone tried this? Bruce Connelly xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 16:31:01 EST Subject: Tyres for MK1 MR2 Hi all, FWIW, I just thought that I would share the following with you. I have an '87 MR2 and have have tried a variety of tyres, some in a limited amount of club racing, until I found what I beleive are the best tyres I've ever used in wet or dry conditions (and their relatively cheap at AUS$125 each). They are the SUMITOMO HTR60G. The tyres I have used in the past have been on the factory wheels and therefore their size has always been 185/60/14. Other tyres I have used include: Make Tyre Description ~~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ Bridgestone RE71 Second best tyre I've used. Bridgestone RE88 Long wearing. Not bad. Yokahama A509 Good in wet. Soft and soggy when warm. Pirelli P600 Slippery. Not suited to MR2. Hope this helps someone. Regards, Harry Pitaro _____________________ Melbourne, Australia pitaro@ozemail.com.au ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 14:42:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Re: Baby Gone To: Toyota Mods > I now have two kill switches - one for the coil which earths it out (this > is better than one which disconnects just the power as it is easy to feed a > wire from the battery directly to the coil - very rarely would some-one > think to remove the existing wires) and another for the fuel pump. Hide > the switch under the dash, in the glovebox, in the boot, under the seat, > wherever you feel it is best hidden but easy to access. Some friends have > about 5 switches all over the place so even if one is found, they may not > get the others :) I've heard of using 'hidden' switches. Ones that work by magnets passing over them .. then all you do is pass a magnet over a specific part of your dash to activate/deactivite it .... it's REALLY hard to find a switch like that!! : ) Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" '87 MR2 - being built for racing in SS2000 class. AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Overheating Date: Mon, 20 May 96 15:00:00 PDT I just recently changed my coolant and I used the Toyota coolant since it is supposed to be longer life than standard coolant and because it is such a pain to change on these cars. I went and bought new bleeder hoses because the factory ones were crimped. I could not however get air to come out of the air bleeder at the heater core. No matter how far I turn the valve screw (little to a lot) the coolant kept coming out of the threads of the screw and not the hose. I was able to get lots of air from the radiator air bleeder. Most of my air bleeding though came from the radiator cap. I kept filling it very slowly and after it got to the top I would run it for about one to two minutes, let it burp, cut it off and refill. I did this about twelve times and it seems to have worked. I ran it yesterday at high and low speeds through our heat wave (95+), fast and slow for more than 200 miles and no problems. I haven't checked the reserve yet to see if its empty. I will do that today! All I can say to you is good luck and keep at it. Every time I thought I had it finished I would look at the radiator cap and the fluid would no longer be there and would have to add more. This is the hardest coolant change I have ever done. But I will probably do it again myself in three years instead of paying someone. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: Dave Abitol Cc: Steve B.; Geoff; Gerald; Kip; Kostas; Owner; Owner; Cal Smith Subject: Overheating Date: Monday, May 20, 1996 9:33AM Well, as yesterday was the first REAL spring day here in New York, that must mean that it's time for another problem ;-) As you can most likely tell from the title of this letter, my car decided that it didn't like the hot weather yesterday. At first I thought it was air in the line, but I think I bled the system properly, and found that not to be the case. I had let the car run for 3 minutes at a time while filling the coolant, but even after this it was overheating. I noticed that I had no heat. :-( Thermostat?? I think it's on the bottom of the engine!!! So I probably have to bleed it again. I don't think the car took on as much coolant as it should have, has anyone out there had to do this yet? The book says it's supposed to hold 14.4 quarts? Anyway, any hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Later Larry S. 91' MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Overheating Date: Mon, 20 May 96 15:34:39 PDT Well, as yesterday was the first REAL spring day here in New York, that must mean that it's time for another problem ;-) As you can most likely tell from the title of this letter, my car decided that it didn't = like the hot weather yesterday. At first I thought it was air in the line, but = I think I bled the system properly, and found that not to be the case. I had = let the car run for 3 minutes at a time while filling the coolant, but even after this it was overheating. I noticed that I had no heat. :-( Thermos= tat?? I think it's on the bottom of the engine!!! So I probably have to bleed = it again. I don't think the car took on as much coolant as it should have, has anyone out there had to do this yet? The book says it's supposed to hold 14.4 quarts? Anyway, any hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Later Larry S. 91' MR2 Turbo =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D I have had a similar problem and yes you guessed it it was a faulty therm= ostat. An easy way to check if the thermostat is working is to take it out of = the car, place it in a clear container full of hot water. It should open before = your very eyes. My problem was that the thermostat was actually broken hence the car was = never getting up to temperature. But in my Rover!!** (sorry for swearing) I = had a sticky thermostat and this did have the same symptoms as you have. No = heating and car going over-temp. Hope this helps. Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 105000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 12:22:32 +1200 (NZST) To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: toyota 4age >Hi > >My name is Liam Venter > >I race a Toyota powered "clubman" in New Zealand. > >I have a fibre glass bodied space frame race car that handles extremely well. We have just won our local 1600 -2000cc clubmans series. Our engine is a 1587cc, but twin cam engines push us up one class under the local rules. It is currently fitted with an early Toyota TVIS 4AGE that runs on Dellorto 40mm Carbs, extractors and a fixed mapp ignition system. Due to very low wind resistance and low weight this car is very competitive. Top speed is in excess of 130Mph althoug we only reach 120-125mph on our local track. > >My car ways 540kg and has a very unique suspension system which I have done some of the design of. This seems to work very well. As a performance comparison we are competitive with some of the slower Porshes and often get race competitively in a grid with Formula Fords. These are a bit like a Formula Atlantic but slower they have a relatively unmodified Ford 1600cc pushrod engine and don't run wings. > >I would like to join an interest group that discusses modifications to the Toyota 4age engine. I have good knowlege on setting up and modifying suspension systems but I am weak on engine skills and knowledge. > >I have just purchased a second-hand late model 4AGE engine with the small inlets and no TVIS. I will run this engine on the same carburettors and ignition system. I want to inexpensively and reliably increase the horse power and torque of this engine. approx 160-170hp would be good. the engine needs to have good power from 4000-8000rpm and be very reliable. > >Questions: > >1) What is the maximum compression I can run on this engine on 96 octane gas. > >2) I understand that there is a limit to the amount of lift or the ramp of the cam that can be run before the shims are flicked out of the top of the buckets. What is the maximum lift Cams I can run before I have to modify the buckets and shims > >3) Can anyone recommend a good cam profile or supplier who can advise? > >4) Will I need to strengthen the bottom end of this engine for this target power and revs. ie stronger rod bolts, TRD bearings, shot peening, nitriding, etc? > >Thanks for any help anyone can give me. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 May 96 01:33:18 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Air Intake >What's better, an air intake kit from either HKS or Greddy, or the K&N IPK? I >know that the K&N one is much more affordable, but I noticed that they use >different filtering elements. Which one would yield more horsepower? FWIW, I talked to two parts dealers that sold both HKS and K&N, both told me that they liked the K&N Filter Injection Performance kit the best. I don't have an opinion on the GReddy because I did not ask about it. As for price, the K&N was only +/- $20.00 at both places. Along a different vein, I am interested in auto-crossing and I'm not sure how to go about finding out if there are auto-xing events around my area (Charlotte, NC). Being in the heart of NASCAR country, it's difficult to get anyone to believe that people want to race anything that has less displacement than a 358ci engine. Don't get me wrong I have grown up with NASCAR and I love it, but I'm looking to participate in something different. If anyone can give me advice on where to start I would appreciate it. William Hall hm: wh_hall@msn.com wk: will@portanc.infoave.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 00:40:00 -0400 (EDT) To: "William Hall" From: CIPHeR Celica GT-R Subject: Re: Air Intake At 01:33 AM 5/21/96 UT, you wrote: >>What's better, an air intake kit from either HKS or Greddy, or the K&N IPK? >I >>know that the K&N one is much more affordable, but I noticed that they use >>different filtering elements. Which one would yield more horsepower?> >FWIW, I talked to two parts dealers that sold both HKS and K&N, both told me >that they liked the K&N Filter Injection Performance kit the best. I don't >have an opinion on the GReddy because I did not ask about it. As for price, >the K&N was only +/- $20.00 at both places. > K&N is a really good filter for everyday use, but if you want more performance, especially for racing, you want to use HKS or Gracer(Greddy). these provide way more hp because foam filters give ya better airflow than paper ones, but the paper filters are probably better for filtration and "cleanliness." >Along a different vein, I am interested in auto-crossing and I'm not sure how >to go about finding out if there are auto-xing events around my area >(Charlotte, NC). Being in the heart of NASCAR country, it's difficult to get >anyone to believe that people want to race anything that has less displacement >than a 358ci engine. Don't get me wrong I have grown up with NASCAR and I >love it, but I'm looking to participate in something different. If anyone can >give me advice on where to start I would appreciate it. sorry, i got no kinds of info on autocrossing in NC, wish i could help you out. i participated in an autocross yesterday (this summer in CA, we're having 13 autocross events to participate in), and i was surprised to see that someone trailered in a NASCAR type Olds. badass! that thing was fully tricked out, but it got eaten by the Mini-Coopers, Datsun 510s, and even 240zx's... it's all good though, because they even got better times than the three 95 M3s and the 96 Porsche 911 Turbo. they were nice to watch though... antonio aponton@concentric.net celica GT-R >William Hall >hm: wh_hall@msn.com >wk: will@portanc.infoave.net > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 09:53:13 -0400 From: "ROGERS" To: Jayson Entao , Subject: Re[2]: 4AGZE If you check back posts (> 2 years?) , you will see mention of an 87 Corolla GTS that I was familiar with that had a 4AGZE transplanted , (later replaced with a 3T-GTE.) The 4AGZE transplant was a weekend project. The conversion used a haltech fuel injection system. The car was extremely fast, but the 4AGZE was eventually replaced by a 3T-GTE because the owner wanted to get into the 250+ BHP range. Roger _______________________________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: 4AGZE From: Jayson Entao at Internet Date: 5/17/96 3:35 PM On Fri, 17 May 1996, Jason McDonald wrote: > >Does anybody know if the 4AGZE? will fit in a Corolla GTS RWD? Same trans, etc ? > >I was whining to Chris a while ago about the lack of low end, and that would b e > >one way to get lots... (I'm watching for an SC MR2, very scarce, but lots of > >NAs for sale) > > Well, in Japan, these cars came supercharged I believe, so I imagine you The 4AGZE only came after 1988 or so in the FWD Sprinter/Trueno, I think. By that time the RWD Corolla's had finished their run. Probably fits though. > re-working the engine with stronger parts anyway, consider just using the > 4AGE instead, and adding your supercharger to that. There isn't much > difference between the motors. The Z motor is just a little beefier in the > rods and piston department. > The 4AGZE also has a stronger crank and reinforced block, making it a favorite to build up on. Brett is right about the lack of SC's around. But there were at least 2 or 3 around the area last time I checked. The one that caught my eye was a silver '88 SC with only 55k for around $6800, but it was an automatic. -Jayson Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 09:23:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Ignition kill switch (was Re: Baby Gone) To: "'toyota-mods@cyberauto.com'" >I've heard of using 'hidden' switches. Ones that work by magnets passing >over them .. then all you do is pass a magnet over a specific part of your >dash to activate/deactivite it .... it's REALLY hard to find a switch like >that!! : ) I have done exactly this with my 80 Celica. It disables the power to the coil and also the electric fuel pump (located next to the fuel tank). This has saved it from being stolen on one occasion. I actually came upon the thieves (2 of them) in the act, but only after they had run down the battery trying to start it. They also cut some wires under the hood. But they didn't get the car! I'm working on an advanced version which will detect a door being opened, and kill the engine a few minutes later. This is for the car jackers. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Starlet16v@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 19:43:01 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Cam for 4KC Hi I have a question for any and everyone familiar with the 4KC engine in the Starlet. Can you recommend a good cam for this engine. Also if its not a problem, when I can get it. Radley 3- 82' Starlets (all in various states of disrepair) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 22:37:31 -0400 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: SuperCoolers > >>Maybe we can agree on this. Now, Dr. Chryssos...can we engineer and build >it...? >> >>Cal > >Why not Cal??? > >We can talk about it for a while and who knows..... > >I am thinking of an easy system first, lets say we put a pair of T joints at >the existing evaporator and connect via two electrically operated 2way >valves either the standard evaporator or one mounted at the intercooler >location. This will be a special intercooler with an incorporated freon >expansion unit, after second thought, we can leave the stock intercooler in >place for pre-cooling and attach the "special one" where the air tube no.2 >is (the one leading from the intercooler to the throttle). We convert the >stock alu tube to a freon expansion unit and we add another thermostat there >as well. So with the flick of a switch we divert the stock airconditioning >to provide additional cooling to the air out of the intercooler and into the >plenum. > >The T's and the thermostat is no problem. > >But we have to design the "new tube" with some restrictions in size and some >specifications in air flow and temp differences. Tricky but not impossible. > >Lets all think about it................ >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. >ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS >Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr > All of the valves and fittings that you need are present on a 1991-present Previa van with rear A/C. I would be quite confident that this is a reasonably easy project. I am assuming that Previas are available over there. The magnetic switching valves are in the low pressure line after the evaporator, a separate expansion valve exists for each evaporator. The main evaporator in both the Previa and MR2 has a temperature sensor which cuts off the compressor (via the a/c amplifier) to prevent icing. This sounds too good to be true, and must be. What if a 20-30 lb resevoir of refrigerant were added to the system, to allow use of temporarily higher boost? Fuel considerations? Mike Dowe mdowe@wchat.on.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: celica air damn!!! To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR Celica GT-R) Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 22:42:10 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Sorry man. I live in Vancouver in Canada. The sfu.ca is actually the address of a university I am currently attending. Anyways, I have the addresses as follows: Aeroform 6300 St. John Ave. Kansas City, MO 64123 (816) 921-1195, (800) 345-2376 Erebuni 158 Roebling Street Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 387-0800 FAX 486-7957 LIke I said, Erebuni is fairly new and big, you should have no problems getting the kit from them. As for Aeroform, the kit was 1988. You could get a catalogue from Erebuni and take a look at the kit. As for Aeroform, the kit can be seen in the July 1989 issue of Turbo magazine. If you do see it, trust me, the kit looks better in person than in the pictures. Again, I have the Aeroform kit. I got it for $700Cdn but I got a deal on it. It was actually $1000Cdn. Please don't ask me to convert that. I don't know the current rate. The Erebuni kit is more expensive, but I don't know how much. Whatever you do, don't get the Kaminari or Pacific kit. I don't like their looks. Picture this. The front of the Aeroform's kit looks like the front of the new SUpra. IT has two air scoops or vents on either side and a long gap right in the middle, just enough clearance to put fog lights on either side of the license plate. And if you do plan to order, make sure you specify to whomever that you have a coupe or hatchback. I didn't know the one I bought was for a hatchback, I had to have the rear apron modified(lengthen) to fit. But looks great now. COupe and Hatchback version for the Aeroform have different looking rear aprons. Keep that in mind. Hope all this helps. If you still need more info, just give me a shout. I just don;t want to clog up the bandwidth in one e-mail. Richard leongc@sfu.ca (Currently majoring in Comp. Science) '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 21:34:46 +1200 (NZST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Julie Ziegler Subject: 4age headers verse manifolds Hi I have just joined the mail list and I notice that you guys have had some discussion on headers versus stock exhaust manifolds. I installed extractors on my 4age with long very straight primaries (I have lots of room). I race in a lotus 7 style clubman class. Currently my engine is a standard 115hp unit except for the extractors and twin 40mm carburettors. I race against a guy with the same engine in stock trim, stock manifold, stock injection system. We race at 4000-7500rpm. Our cars weigh the same but I have much better aerodynamics. His car seems to have a whisker more power down the straights. His engine seems to run better than any of the other standard injected engines. But he is one of the few cars running the standard exhaust manifold. We believe it may be because he's A) cheating or B) The standard manifold works pretty well. I wrapped the extractors with Thermotec. I did a race in the rain six months latter, In my car water sprays from the wheels onto the extractors. After six laps the Thermotec had been "washed" off despite being coated with their protective paint. The thin wall extractors were just starting to rust so I had them HPC (High Performance Coatings coated. HPC does provide a limited thermal coating but is not a patch on Thermotec for retaining heat. HPC does not guarantee their coating if you wrap it as the extra heat build up is not good. So I now only wrap a portion of the pipe under the distributor to stop the cap melting. If I could find some exhaust wrap that could withstand the water blasting from my tires I would probably use it to get the extra few hp. So maybe its better to stick with the standard headers than spend big bucks trying to get very marginal performance gains. hope this of interest. regards Liam Venter xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 22 May 96 10:28:36 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: "Steve B." Cc: Geoff , Subject: Water Temp Sensor RE:OVERHEATING Thanks to all who replied to my Overheating post. It turns out that neither the thermostat nor the air in the line were the culprit. My fans weren't coming on (arent't - not fixed yet) I ordered a new water temp sensor and it should be in thurs night. Also, in the past, I as well as others have posted about loosing power under higher boost levels. Almost a studder kind of problem. I *think* I found the prob. There is one large intake hose broken up into three sections. The first is a rubber section that conects the MAFS to a metal elbow, second, obviously, is the metal elbow, third is another rubber hose with two small holes and the two large ends. this last section is the one that connects the metal elbow to the turbo. I found a crack in the last rubber hose (to the turbo). I'm assuming that this is causing the computer to send the wrong amount of fuel under pressure due to air leak. I ordered a new one ($43 US) and it along with the new sensor should be in thurs night. I'll post the results. Later, Larry S. 91' MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 16:41:20 +0200 To: mdowe@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: SuperCoolers Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >All of the valves and fittings that you need are present on a 1991-present >Previa van with rear A/C. I would be quite confident that this is a >reasonably easy project. I am assuming that Previas are available over >there. The magnetic switching valves are in the low pressure line after the >evaporator, a separate expansion valve exists for each evaporator. The main >evaporator in both the Previa and MR2 has a temperature sensor which cuts >off the compressor (via the a/c amplifier) to prevent icing. > >This sounds too good to be true, and must be. What if a 20-30 lb reservoir of >refrigerant were added to the system, to allow use of temporarily higher boost? >Fuel considerations? > >Mike Dowe >mdowe@wchat.on.ca Right. I was talking just today with an expert here about the idea and he told me exactly the same thing. If we add a small tank to the existing system to accommodate more freon we can have the two systems operating together or independently and with an electric valve on the intercooler a/c to use it on demand (say when boost over 1.3 bar is applied). He also told me that we can run a demo unit by using liquid nitrogen instead of freon for experimental purposes so as not to fumble with the stock a/c, lines etc, and when the results are encouraging one can develop it further. He also gave me some ideas about the expansion unit. It could be a piece of pipe similar to the stock alu pipe from the intercooler to the throttle, a bid larger diameter having inside alu fins along the length. The fins would extend almost to the center of the pipe, say maybe 12 fins, with channels in the fins to boil the freon right at the fins. He estimates a rather large freon flow. The standard size a/c for cars, he told me are about 3 HP DIN and the performance adjustment for each individual type of car is done by selecting the proper ratio in order to increase or decrease RPM between engine and a/c compressor. He estimates that no more than 5 to 8 HP are drawn max from the engine power on a standard size vehicles. more........ Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 22 May 96 10:29:48 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Headers (4AG) To the list, For those that asked the early 4AG ECU's with OX and MAP sensor appear to use the OX when running under light load but not at idle! If you connect a voltage comparitor to the OX line you will see voltage vary rapidly about .5 volt as you drive but go to 1 Volt under load and less than 100MV when under trailing throttle. A cold OX sensor doesnt really seem to do much when the throttle position sensor is indicating closed ( VDLE-E2 =0 volts). When you change to headers you notice more suction at idle and leaner mixtures which sometimes make the car 'hunt'. Putting a resistor in the water circuit helps, but it affects the whole rev range and is only correct for one water temperature which is usually 80C. Thus if you turn your car off for five minutes you may get a low idle until things heat up. The US airflow cars allow you to change the mixture variation under load easily by changing the spring pressure. The MAP sensor cars can also be altered by the use of two 10K pots in MAP sensor line (PIM). For those with ONLY headers you may find that all you want to do is richen the idle circuit, nothing else. If OX works at idle then this should happen automatically but on my car it DOES not. If you open the ECU you will clearly see the variable resistor pins marked on the board and the tracks to the ECU. The only thing left out is a capacitor, C105 on my board. If the US ECU is the same then simply putting this back in and restoring the normal variable resistor idle mixture circuit (0-5K linear) may give you guys a proper idle mixture adjustment for minor header and exhaust mods. To check this open the ECU and look for the variable resistor circuit and a C105 marked on the board but missing. Good luck. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 13:23:01 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Baby Gone Well, I've kinda gotten fed up with Jacobs Ignitions, but one thing that they're very good for is theft protection. They have a switch that you can flip that will allow a thief to start the car, but then it will slowly die about 1/2 mile down the road. This is especially nice in a car-jack situation. You gladly give up the car, but hit the floor-mounted switch on your way out of the car. Call the cops, go with them to get the car. They sell the system by itself w/o the ignition, which is what I'd recommend. (BTW, my aggravation w/Jacob's isn't a performance issue, its otherwise.) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 13:27:04 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Anybody have these injectors? Right here I am, Fred! That great deal on 3SGT injectors kinda went blah. I ordered a set of these for Gregory Chan back about, oh, 3 months ago. Still no indication on whether or not there will ever be any of these available. I can get them reconditioned, but places like Python that do sell reconditioned pieces just don't seem to be able to get any supply of used injectors. I'm leaving them on order, and whenever they come in I'll let folks know that I have them. I'm not holding my breath, however. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 13:31:07 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Aeroware Body Kit Chris O. already knows this, but if any of you MR2 MKII guru's is interested, I've got a page for the Aeroware body kit on my web catalog. Geoff S. has one on mr2.com as well, but I had some problems getting the images on it (plus I've got some pricing for those interested.) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 13:36:07 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: TOYOTA Repair Manuals Regarding Dr. Chryssos' Differential upgrade and the replacement parts required...I may be mistaken, but since the factory manual is discussing how to replace an open diff, and since that installation requires one-time use parts like crush sleeves which shouldn't apply to your LSD, you may not need any other parts. There are some bearings that you might want to consider replacing while you have the thing apart, but if they're not burnt or worn you should be able to re-use them. YMMV--I've not done the precise changeover that you're doing now. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 21:02:31 +0200 To: Chris Myer From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: TOYOTA Repair Manuals Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Regarding Dr. Chryssos' Differential upgrade and the replacement parts >required...I may be mistaken, but since the factory manual is discussing >how to replace an open diff, and since that installation requires one-time >use parts like crush sleeves which shouldn't apply to your LSD, you may >not need any other parts. There are some bearings that you might want to >consider replacing while you have the thing apart, but if they're not >burnt or worn you should be able to re-use them. > >YMMV--I've not done the precise changeover that you're doing now. > >Chris OK what I mean is as follows: The 91 manual does NOT mark as Non-Reusable parts the : Input shaft front bearing, the output shaft cover and the output shaft front bearing . The 95 manual DOES mark them as such. Those items, when opening the transaxle will have to be split, as you will have to remove the input and the output shaft in order to remove and replace the differential. In other words the bearings outer races will remain on the case and the axle with the rest removed. It is true that the output shaft bearings are conical, so splitting and puting together may be no problem, but the input shaft rear one is (I think) not conical and may be damaged if split or removed. I do not know and this is why I ask. Also the differential has two bearings on its shaft. Removing the old differential the outer race of both bearings will remain on the case (they are conical types and split without damage). The 91 manual does NOT mark them as non-reusable parts, but the 95 manual requires that they are changed with new ones. I have new ones at hand since I must presfit the inner race to the axes of the new differential but I thought of saving me the effort to remove the outer races from the case of the transaxle. Question Is it wise to use half used and half new bearing( the used ones are only 18K miles!!) or should one change to new all over. (there is no point to use the old ones completely since the effort is the same to use new ones which are available anyway) Regardless of what one does, I think the best is to use all new ones, if available, there is still a discrepancy between the 91 and the 95 manuals. > Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 14:14:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: Liam Venter Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: toyota 4age On Tue, 21 May 1996, Liam Venter wrote: > >My name is Liam Venter Hi Liam, ... > >I would like to join an interest group that discusses modifications to the > Toyota 4age engine. I have good knowlege on setting up and modifying > suspension systems but I am weak on engine skills and knowledge. This is the place! Roger Smith should be of help in this area. Maybe the mr2 group is another resource, although a lot of the discussion deals with the mkII, non-4AGE engines. > >I have just purchased a second-hand late model 4AGE engine with the small > inlets and no TVIS. I will run this engine on the same carburettors and > ignition system. I want to inexpensively and reliably increase the horse > power and torque of this engine. approx 160-170hp would be good. the engine > needs to have good power from 4000-8000rpm and be very reliable. This sounds almost exactly like the setup on Roger's 4AGE Starlet. Confirmation? ... > >2) I understand that there is a limit to the amount of lift or the ramp of > the cam that can be run before the shims are flicked out of the top of the > buckets. What is the maximum lift Cams I can run before I have to modify the > buckets and shims ... According to TRS, the upper limit on cam profile using the stock shim-on-top buckets is 300 degrees/9.5 lift, for around 185hp. But I'm no expert in this area, you'll probably want to talk to the guy (Topi) yourself. -Jayson Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 14:28:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: Starlet16v@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Cam for 4KC On Tue, 21 May 1996 Starlet16v@aol.com wrote: > Hi Hiya, > I have a question for any and everyone familiar with the 4KC engine in the > Starlet. > Can you recommend a good cam for this engine. Also if its not a problem, when > I can get it. Hmm while I can't recommend a cam, I can tell you what's available while I still have this TRS sheet here... TRS 320/7.6 race & rally, re-grind TRS 295/8.2 race & rally, re-grind TRS 285/7.5 ITC-D/rally lite/CRS Stock and... TRD 310/7.0 race & rally, new I assume that these cams are designed for use with highly tuned/mod'd engines, so you couldn't just slap one in there and go... probably need new springs, etc... > Radley > 3- 82' Starlets (all in various states of disrepair) As for my Starlet, it's currently awaiting repair after destroying a front wheel bearing. I let that one go too long. What a shock, after 158k miles something finally broke on its own. I mean, I'm still on the original clutch. Meanwhile, I am trying to procure a wrecked '85 Corolla GTS in SJ for some...ahem...parts. (starts with an "e" =) -Jayson Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tony Lanterman Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 18:43:47 -0700 (PDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Baby Gone / New Car In an odd twist of fate I have found the car I have wanted for a long time because mine was stolen. I am now the proud owner of a black 1985 Celica GT-S Convertable. There have only been three of these for sale in northern Oregon in the last year. I wouldn't have been looking in the paper had my ST not been stolen last Friday. The new one will have kill switches on the fuel injection, fuel pump, and ignition by this weekend. Thanks for all the suggestions. Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1985 Celica GT-S * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * Convertible * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * 1983 Celica ST * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 14:39:39 +1200 (NZST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter To: toyota-mods@cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods *Please* include at least the following information: Name : Liam Venter Location : Auckland, New Zealand Model : Sylva Spyder (fibberglass body, race designed space frame, race suspension - Lotus 7 eater!). This car has a very radical suspension system that I have co-designed with Sylva Cars. Although all of the ideas have been tried together before, we don't know of any car that comines the different systems we use. System includes twin tranverse watts linkages supporting the live rear axle - works brilliantly and a very unique lateral location system - still in developement. In total a very complicated 7 link system! Engine : Late model 4age with small ports and spare early model 4age with large ports Mods : Twin 40mm Dellortos, and extractors. Top speed 130Mph plus, approx 550kg, knee high to a grass hopper and fully enveloping body minus roof. Used for cross country blasts and racing including a 3000Km closed road Targa rally. email : liam@LAN 1.co.nz. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 22:59:22 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: CIPHeR Celica GT-R Subject: shocked! Cc: leongc@cyberspace.cyberauto.com what up guys... i recently installed tokico shocks in my 86 celica, and i'm really upset to see that it increased my ride height. it increased by about 3/4" and i'm really pissed!!! my friends say, "dont worry about it, it looks alright" but it pisses me off! I HATE FENDER GAP!!!!!!! to top it all off, the other day some girl came up to me and said, "that's a nice car, arent you gonna lower it?" what? *#@!!* evidently this chick was asking to be slapped or something! anyways, my handling is way better. the shocks really helped out in an autocross i was in last weekend, but still i'm upset about the fender gap! i heard that you can cut the bump stops on the shocks to lower the car, but then it works the shocks waay more. someone suggested cutting coils on the springs, but that was something i was trying to avoid. all the hondas by where i live have cut springs and bounce whenever they hit bumps in the road, and also scrape when coming into driveways. i know that cutting springs is supposed to be a bad thing to do, but i dont know what i could do in order to decrease my fender gap! i already have 16 inch rims with 40 series tires(apparently the maximum wheel size for celicas) and tokico springs(lowered the car about 1 to 1.25 inches, at least that's what the dealer said) and tokico shocks. i have always had alot more fender gap in the front than in the rear, but i guessed that's because the front fender was cut higher, for turning capabilities or whatev. now i have about 2.5 "fingers" or gap in the front, and approximately 2 fingers of fender gap in the rear. it used to be about 1.5-1.75 "fingers" gap in the front, and 1 finger gap in the rear. the other day, i saw a celica of the same year without any fender gap at all! he probably cut his springs, but i'm not sure. i dont know of anyone that makes lower than a 1" drop for celicas... now i guess i have to decide on the lesser of two evils... if anyone has information or an opinion on what would be a better option, PLEASE EMAIL ME BACK asap!!!!!!!!!! I NEED HELP! (fender gap is embarrassing) THANKS Y'all... antonio aponton@concentric.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 00:30:04 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: 4AGE cams Well, after getting burned by the local dealer (who has got Toyota USA chasing them now) when I was in a hurry to get the valves shimmed after installing a set of one-off cams, that John at MR2 Performance had whipped up, for this weekend's autox events, I finally got a hold of as many shims as I could from ANOTHER dealer to get the valves as close as I could today to give the car the proper thrashing. There's a bit of excess clearance on several valves. Whwn I get them all within spec, I'll post some 40-70 times. The cams John provided are around 260 degrees of duration and about 9 mm lift. They are true drop in. There are several other modifications made to the car prior to the cams that I have posted before (cone filter, 250cc injectors, 4-2-1 header/JetHot, 2.25" exhaust/no cat, bored TB, bla, bla, etc.). The cams provide a *slightly* lumpy idle at 800 rpm. The stock ECU seems to get along just fine (the larger injectors are needed at this point or very lean mixtures will result at WFO). Throttle response is good at lower rpm, with no stumble. There's adequate power at cruise also. At about 5000 rpm the cams really come alive and the car accelerates quite quick. I'm guessing about 145 - 150 hp or better at this stage with my calibrated accelerometer butt. I don't have software to calculate this yet (hint) as I'd like to plug some times in and see what I have here before stage III (heads/manifold). Stay tuned for details after the weekend for some more data. Later, Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net '89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 GS '83 RX-7 GSL xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 16:58:31 +1200 (NZST) To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: 4age headers verse manifolds Thanks for the above information Bruce. Sounds like my headers will be worthwhile as I increase the power! You make pretty good sense. Almost nothing is cheating in my class. If I could afford a formuala Atlantic engine this would be legal! We have 220hp cars in my class. Trouble is no one can afford to maintain them! Therefore they can't run enough meetings to get enough series points. The aim of our class is to get as many cars on the track as possible and no one really cares who wins (much). I am allowed to run any octane race fuel but not methanol. Can any one tell me how much compression I can get with a thinner head gasket. I have the late model small port engine? and want to run as much compression as possible by palnning the head, block (If possible?) and using a thinner gasket. I want to avoid the cost of high compression pistons. If I over do the questions guys, please let me know. I am unsure of the etiquette. Trust I can contribute more positively in the future. Thanks to the suggestions everyone has sent me and the old posts I have looked at I have already made 80% of the decisions on engine mods. regards Liam Venter At 10:24 AM 23/05/96 EST, bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote: >Liam, >What you say is true. Last year over two race days and more than 40 laps >we raced two AE86 Sprinters with stock 4AG's. Mine and one other, the ONLY >real diference was the fact that mine has 4-2-1 (TRI-Y in the US) and his has >the stock manifold. The result was than there was no measurable difference >in lap time or power, on a standard early 4AG...........none! Later on I raced >other 4AG's with 45mm DCOE's and 4-1 extractors. Both cars with the standard >TVIS PULLED away from the non TVIS carby car. The bottom line is the factory >got it right for the cam timing installed and the TVIS is worth having on >cars like mine that weigh 1000KGS. > >However the 4AG really responds to cams and compression, and the more you >change these the more you need to build headers and a different exhaust system. >There has been much talk of late on headers, most of it very valuable but >keep in mind the modification and engine type involved. For the 4AG's I know >if you leave the cam unaltered there is no question of the gains from exhaust >and intake but I cant proove that headers are worth the money. For those I >have seen with 320 cams and 12:1 they all have very well made headers and they >need them. > >Is it cheating in your class to change the head gasket? The standard engine >runs happily at 10:1 on 96 ROM and gives an extra yard or two. It is almost >undetectable and was fitted to many of the so called 'standard' Australian >factory race cars. >Bruce > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 16:23:17 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: 4age headers verses manifolds Hi all, After a day or two's rest, the mail is starting up again on standard manifols Vs aftermarket 'headers'. I've had a bit of time to think about it, and I reckon the apparent difference in results we are getting across the Pacific is possibly due to two things - The Aus/Jap engines must be different to the US ones, ie, the exhaust manifolds must also be different in some way that none of us knows about because none of us owns an Aus AND a US engine to directly compare them. The other difference is more obvious - the FWD, RWD, and MR2 exhaust manifold are all different. (Not too sure about the MR2 & FWD being different - I haven't had the pleasure of working on either) I know for a fact that the Aus/Jap standard exhaust manifolds are excellent, but I cannot give comments on the US ones for obvious reasons. (I think we all assume they are the same ...) Can anyone give some comments on their experience if they have seen any variations in the types of exhaust manifolds, ie, "Yes, I bought an import engine and it had a different exhaust manifold to my old US one .... ", etc. You know, that sort of stuff. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 16:23:50 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) Hi all, One of the smartest gadgets I've seen to stop the car from disapearing was on a Ford Saphire. On the keyring there was an odd shaped device that looked a little like a small comb. It was in fact a small circuit board that fitted into the dashboard of the car near the ignition key, and when fitted it forms part of the EFI computer circuit. It is apparently unique to each car, so even if it's hot wired, etc, it WILL NOT START! Has anyone seen any kits like that floating around? The closest I've seen is a kit in Aus that runs the ignition system advance - it has a security function that requires a keypad input to 'unlock' the ignition system. Unfortunately, I think that it doesn't stop the car being hot wired. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 01:31:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Wes Shew Subject: Re: Baby Gone To: Chris Myer Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Wed, 22 May 1996, Chris Myer wrote: > Well, I've kinda gotten fed up with Jacobs Ignitions, but one thing that > > (BTW, my aggravation w/Jacob's isn't a performance issue, its otherwise.) So what is wrong with them? I'm waiting to hear. TIA Yours in motorsport, Wes Shew [macher :-) ] xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 08:28:35 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Alarms I've seen a bunch of posts on effective alarms, and it reminded me of what a friend did once... He wired in a switch to the OUTPUT of the coil... then wired it to the springs of the driver seat!! He figured if someone wanted the car they were gonna get one hell of a surprise!! :) Dave A. daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: daucott@e-mail.com Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 08:34:53 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Strut tower brace *** Resending note of 05/23/96 08:32 Hi, I guess I've decided to track down a late model MKI strut tower brace for use on my '86. Can someone please tell me when Toyota started putting them in? I've located 4 cars in local yards here but they're all '85 and '86 models. Did it start in '87 or was this an '88 thing? Also, does anyone have one they'd like to get rid of? Thanks for any info. Dave A. daucott@e-mail.com .............. Dave Aucott 1998 FN145 Structures, Moonroof, Fixed Glass 32-39181 (PDC), 31-78780 (NMPDC) Internet: daucott@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 15:00:53 +0200 To: "Christopher P. Myer" From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: More requirements Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Dr. Chryssos: > >Do you think you can give me a clue about who might be a vendor for >these? I've never even heard of TYVEC! Maybe it was posted on the >MR2 list? I don't remember seeing that on TM. > >Chris > Could be so. Must have been a year back or so. I will put an e-mail tracer. ++++++++++++++++ Sometime back I was e-mailed the name and address of a company that produced/sold covers for the MR2 made from TYVEC . I have since lost this info. Could the originator re-post it please??????????? Thks ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 11:20:07 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Jacob's Ignitions I didn't want to vent my frustrations with Jacobs to the list, but I guess it wasn't a good idea to just say that I had problems with them "other than performance" either. Personally, I've been running a Jacob's Mileage Master ignition on my truck for over 5 years. I've never had a bit of problem with it, and will keep that ignition in the truck when I replace the engine. The reliability seems to be excellent. As far as performance, I've since learned a lot more about ignition requirements, and realize that getting a hotter ignition really isn't going to do squat for you on a low rpm, low compression 4 cyl. The only time you need to start being concerned about ignition power is when you're running high rpms and/or high compression. Now, when I say high rpms, keep in mind that we're not talking specifically about the number of times the motor revolves per minute, but rather how many times the coil has to charge and discharge per minute. In a 4 cylinder running at 6000 rpm, this is exactly half as many times as an 8 cylinder running the same speed. So, 4 cylinders, low rpm, low compression means that big spark doesn't buy you much. I was impressed with how much cleaner the engine ran with the Jacob's ignition. I was also impressed with the theft deterrence system which I mentioned before. Plus it is a very easy system to install, and they have "operators standing by" waiting to help you if you run into problems. What's my problem? Price, mostly. Other than the theft deterrence system you really aren't getting that much more than an MSD or Crane box would provide. Then, on a professional note, they raised their prices about 20% overnight recently without sending out new price sheets (at least they didn't send one to me) and I ended up giving away some stuff for less than what it cost me to buy it. I usually don't like to wob about this kind of stuff, but since I was asked by several folks... My conclusion? If money is no issue, and if you think you're not mechanically advanced enough to install a no-frills system like the MSD or Crane, go with the Jacobs. However, I still think that until you're turning your 4 cylinder at 6000 rpm or higher and have at least 10:1 compression, you'd be money ahead and better off just getting a good hot coil and a set of Magnecor KV85 Competition plug wires. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: GBELL@ubmail.ubalt.edu Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 10:24:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: Bearing replacement To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Kostas, As far as bearing and race replacement, I have some knowledge as it applies specifically to bicycles, but I believe that it can be transfered over to anything that uses bearings. I have read many a book on bicycle maintenance, some of them non-technical and a few very technical ones. With a racing bicycle that costs $3,000 and a Mountain Bike at $1,800 you can correctly assume that I desire high performance and seek ways to maintain it. One of the things that I have learned about bikes is that you should replace the bearings every year. This is even with very efficient water/dirt seals and a complete overhaul that includes Amsoil synthetic wheelbearing grease (made for cars but I use it on my bike). Bearings should be replaced if they show and signs of pitting or "scratches". That is obvious. Another reason you want to use new bearings is for a reason that you can't see. The reason is that the once perfectly round bearings have now become oblong and or irregular in shape. With 25-70 mishapened bearings you will have a harder time getting the proper precision. Believe me when I tell you that when you ride a bike you can feel every little difference. Just from a dry chain to a lubricated one there is a noticeable lack of resistance, and having new bearings makes just as much of a difference. How this applies to an auto transmission is this. The irregular bearings will act like little "cubes" instead of spheres and damage the race so that even if you replace the bearings latter with new ones you will still have a friction problem and the new bearings will be damaged by the damaged race. I have found a neat way to check the smoothness of a race. You simply roll the ball point of a ball point pen where the bearings roll. Amazingly, the pen magnifies every little bur and scratch so you can feel it easily. I would suspect that transmission bearings are placed under a much higher load than bicycle bearings so all wear is accelerated, which places even greater emphasis on the smoothness of the races and roundness of the bearings as this is the focal point of all the friction, stress and wear. Keep in mind that the bearings used on high end bikes are of the highest grade. Campagnolo, an Italian manufacture of bicycle components is well-known in the bike community for using races that exceed NASA standards for smoothness, and many bike manufactures are using "sealed bearings". The reason that sealed bearings are so popular on bicycles is because when you replace a "cartridge" you are replacing both races and the bearings! Now, these cartridge bearings are also used in industrial machines so they're not pieces 'o junk. And they are recommended to be replaced once a year also. I believe that you will have a completely new trans with the new bearings and should replace them and the race also if the race is damaged. New races are, of course, better. A note about replacing bearings. Always replace ALL of the bearings. don't try to save money using some of the old bearings mixed in with the new ones. In addition, when buying bearings make sure that they are from the same lot. This means, make sure that they were made at the same time by the same machine. By making sure that the bearings are all from the same lot you insure that they are all the same size. Just because it says 5 mm on the package doesn't mean it is EXACTLY 5mm. There is a little variation in each lot around the size. So, say that you mix lot A with lot B. Lot A might be .10 mm smaller than 5mm and if lot B is .10 mm larger than you'll have a .20mm difference in size. This means that the smaller bearings will probably not be used much *until* the larger ones are compressed into an oblong/or irregular shape. These irregular bearings cause friction and accelerate wear. With increased wear at the bearing-race contact precision is lost. The less precision the more the wear, a nasty downward spiral. Gary B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 23 May 96 10:24:48 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4age headers verse manifolds Liam, What you say is true. Last year over two race days and more than 40 laps we raced two AE86 Sprinters with stock 4AG's. Mine and one other, the ONLY real diference was the fact that mine has 4-2-1 (TRI-Y in the US) and his has the stock manifold. The result was than there was no measurable difference in lap time or power, on a standard early 4AG...........none! Later on I raced other 4AG's with 45mm DCOE's and 4-1 extractors. Both cars with the standard TVIS PULLED away from the non TVIS carby car. The bottom line is the factory got it right for the cam timing installed and the TVIS is worth having on cars like mine that weigh 1000KGS. However the 4AG really responds to cams and compression, and the more you change these the more you need to build headers and a different exhaust system. There has been much talk of late on headers, most of it very valuable but keep in mind the modification and engine type involved. For the 4AG's I know if you leave the cam unaltered there is no question of the gains from exhaust and intake but I cant proove that headers are worth the money. For those I have seen with 320 cams and 12:1 they all have very well made headers and they need them. Is it cheating in your class to change the head gasket? The standard engine runs happily at 10:1 on 96 ROM and gives an extra yard or two. It is almost undetectable and was fitted to many of the so called 'standard' Australian factory race cars. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) Date: Thu, 23 May 96 09:13:00 PDT A friend of mine has one of these on his Toyota truck. I will check with him to see where he got it and than post the info. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ------------------------------------ > One of the smartest gadgets I've seen to stop the car from >disapearing was on a Ford Saphire. On the keyring there was an odd shaped >device that looked a little like a small comb. It was in fact a small >circuit board that fitted into the dashboard of the car near the ignition >key, and when fitted it forms part of the EFI computer circuit. It is >apparently unique to each car, so even if it's hot wired, etc, it WILL NOT xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ITSSupra@aol.com Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 12:39:13 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Weber Carbs and parts For Sale Hi All: I have for sale a pair of Weber 40DCOE sidedrafts mounted on a 20R intake manifold. Already set up and jetted for a 22R engine with 20R head. Includes lots of Weber parts. $400 for the lot. E-mail me direct if you're interested. Bill S. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 13:06:51 -0400 From: "ROGERS" To: David Rees Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re[2]: Car Security. One thing I saw recently which struck me as the ultimate in car security, was a quick release steering kit (If you have an air bag mounted on your steering column, skip this message now!). Within seconds you could remove the steering wheel from the car and take it with you. (I saw this setup in an early 80's BMW 3 Series car that was fitted with full roll cage, and racing seats (It was a street legal car nonethless). The performance shop that installed it was asking CDN $1500 including the MOMO steering wheel (the machine work necessary to do the quick release mechanism on top of the after market steering "Boss" is where most of the cost was supposedly attributed to). P.S This doesn't stop someone from using a tow truck to cart your car away! Roger Smith _______________________________________________________________________________ Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) From: David Rees at Internet Date: 5/23/96 4:29 PM > They claimed that the "key" (circuit board) is unique, but in fact there > are only 5 or 6 contacts on the board. There are only so many combinations > you can come up with so few contacts. It wouldn't be that hard to make it so that the key is very unique. All they have to do is put a resistor of any value in the circuit board (the computer can be made to recognize only one resistance) and voila! Virtually infinate combinations. (At least hundreds of thousands anyway!) Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 96 10:46:27 PDT From: asano@rambus.com (Richard Asano) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) >A friend of mine has one of these on his Toyota truck. I will check with >him to see where he got it and than post the info. >> One of the smartest gadgets I've seen to stop the car from >>disapearing was on a Ford Saphire. On the keyring there was an odd shaped >>device that looked a little like a small comb. It was in fact a small >>circuit board that fitted into the dashboard of the car near the ignition >>key, and when fitted it forms part of the EFI computer circuit. It is >>apparently unique to each car, so even if it's hot wired, etc, it WILL NOT This sounds similar to what a Toyota dealer in Sacramento, CA did. They put an aftermarket ignition disabling system in every car to stop thieves from stealing cars off of the lot. They claimed zero losses since instituting this system. Then they offered the security system to the customers when they buy the car for few hundred dollars. Now get this. If the customer doesn't want to pay for the device, they replace the circuit board (fits under the dashboard) with a smaller board which you cannot remove without a needlenose plier and leave the system in place. I pulled this circuit board out, constructed a new board and some spares (from an old kit that I had bought from Radio Shack years earlier) and now I have an ignition security system for a small amount of labor. I haven't investigated to find out just what the system disables, but the starter will not turn over. They claimed that the "key" (circuit board) is unique, but in fact there are only 5 or 6 contacts on the board. There are only so many combinations you can come up with so few contacts. Does the "mod" of the circuit board to my Toy truck qualify as an acceptable subject to this Toyota-mods mailing list? 8-) Richard Asano asano@rambus.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 12:07:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Phillip Dang To: CIPHeR Celica GT-R Cc: The Toyota Mods Mailing List Subject: Re: shocked! Hi Antonio, On Wed, 22 May 1996, Antonio (aponton@concentric.net) wrote: > i have always had alot more fender gap in the front than in the rear, > but i guessed that's because the front fender was cut higher, for > This backs up the fact that the car is so front heavy. I've got Eibach springs and Tokico shock-- more fender gap in the rear. > the other day, i saw a celica of the same year without any fender gap > at all! he probably cut his springs, but i'm not sure. i dont know of > anyone that makes lower than a 1" drop for celicas... > Check out Eibach's Sportline springs, 1.5" to 2" drop. http://www.eibach.com/sportline.html > i heard that you can cut the bump stops on the shocks to lower the car, but > then it works the shocks waay more. someone suggested cutting coils on the > springs, but that was something i was trying to avoid. > Don't cut anything. Cutting stuff will only make something else wear out faster. Phil ez049105@rocky.ucdavis.edu 87 Celics ST, auto, 3S-FE, 103K miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 12:40:30 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) > They claimed that the "key" (circuit board) is unique, but in fact there > are only 5 or 6 contacts on the board. There are only so many combinations > you can come up with so few contacts. It wouldn't be that hard to make it so that the key is very unique. All they have to do is put a resistor of any value in the circuit board (the computer can be made to recognize only one resistance) and voila! Virtually infinate combinations. (At least hundreds of thousands anyway!) Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 13:22:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" >I haven't investigated to find out just what the system disables, but the >starter will not turn over. These after market types of security systems that are installed by the dealer are most likely not wired into the EFI computer (which is the most secure way). This means that either the starter or ignition or fuel pump is disabled. The car can still be hot wired with this setup. The starter disable is the best for the dealer in terms of liability, because a failure of the security device will not kill the engine when it is already running. Of course this also means that the car can be push started (manual trans). >They claimed that the "key" (circuit board) is unique, but in fact there >are only 5 or 6 contacts on the board. There are only so many combinations >you can come up with so few contacts. A typical circuit would only require four connections (power, ground, and two for digital data interface). There are inexpensive digital serial memory chips available that can store many bits of data, which will allow many millions (or billions) of combinations. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 96 14:12:57 PDT From: asano@rambus.com (Richard Asano) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) Bryan, >These after market types of security systems that are installed by the >dealer are most likely not wired into the EFI computer (which is the most >secure way). This means that either the starter or ignition or fuel pump is >disabled. The car can still be hot wired with this setup. The starter >disable is the best for the dealer in terms of liability, because a failure >of the security device will not kill the engine when it is already running. > Of course this also means that the car can be push started (manual trans). Good point. I had to go out and check. It still runs if I pull it out after it starts so you hit it right on the nose. >>They claimed that the "key" (circuit board) is unique, but in fact there >>are only 5 or 6 contacts on the board. There are only so many combinations >>you can come up with so few contacts. > >A typical circuit would only require four connections (power, ground, and >two for digital data interface). There are inexpensive digital serial >memory chips available that can store many bits of data, which will allow >many millions (or billions) of combinations. Shall I raise a flag saying "Come steal my truck"?????? Oh well. They have 6 contacts of which 2 get shorted together. The starter wire from the key lock probably gets routed through this connection. Not exactly high tech but at least it stopped many of them from stealing the cars off of the sales lot. One of these days (in my copious spare time) I should use a couple of the other contacts to disable the EFI as recommended. That would at least slow the thieves down a bit more. Unless you design the circuits very conservatively, more complicated schemes raise the risk of disabling the car when you don't want it to due to chip or connection failure. Personally, I like the magnet idea that you use. It sounds way superior. Where do you find magnetic switches? Richard Asano asano@rambus.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 15:23:59 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) At 01:22 PM 5/23/96 -0700, you wrote: > >>I haven't investigated to find out just what the system disables, but the >>starter will not turn over. > >These after market types of security systems that are installed by the >dealer are most likely not wired into the EFI computer (which is the most >secure way). This means that either the starter or ignition or fuel pump is >disabled. The car can still be hot wired with this setup. The starter >disable is the best for the dealer in terms of liability, because a failure >of the security device will not kill the engine when it is already running. > Of course this also means that the car can be push started (manual trans). > >>They claimed that the "key" (circuit board) is unique, but in fact there >>are only 5 or 6 contacts on the board. There are only so many combinations >>you can come up with so few contacts. > >A typical circuit would only require four connections (power, ground, and >two for digital data interface). There are inexpensive digital serial >memory chips available that can store many bits of data, which will allow >many millions (or billions) of combinations. > >Bryan Zublin >bzublin@gi.com > I worked for a few years as a stereo and alarm installer so I may have a few things to add to this. Many dealers here in the US do install these "theft-prevention systems" on all their cars. When someone buys the car, they offer them the "system" for several hundred dollars. If they refuse it, which I hope they do, they simply break the handle of the "key" off and leave the rest in the receptacle so it will function. These systems are simply a Relay that breaks the connection from the ignition switch to the starter relay. The key simply completes the circuit that allows the relay to conduct. These systems are very cheap and they are usually installed in a very poor, careless, and simple way. They can be defeated very quickly. The original poster mentioned something about a similar security that involves the ECU circuitry. This is probably the best form of theft prevention by far! Unfortunately, the only place I have seen this is on a workbench at FORD. My brother, who is an engineer for Ford electronics was working on a system that used a small transponder in the Key. The transponder was picked up by a sensor that wraps around the ignition switch. This sensor sent an enabling signal to the ECU. I am unsure if this is in production yet and unfortunately I haven't seen this idea used anywhere else. I just wanted to make sure no one confused these cheap systems the dealers are putting in with anything that actually resembles theft protection. I think your best bet for protecting your vehicle is some type of custom killswitch that defeats either the ignition or the fuel pump. Make it very hidden, and tap into the wires you need in a very unobvious place. The main thing you need to do is make it difficult for prospective thieves to find your protection, because with enough time, eventually they will always get your car. Make it difficult enough, and they will give up and move on to an easier target. Hope that helps someone! Jason McDonald 87 MR2 N/A xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 20:35:52 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) Subject: R-135A & Air Bags I'm looking to get a late model Camry. I don't want the R-12 freon hassle in future years and I want dual airbags. What is the *oldest* model Camry which has R-135A and dual bags? Thanks. Dick Byrd byrd@mnsinc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: MICKY THUTIYAKUL Subject: Re: Re[2]: Car Security. To: ROGERS@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (ROGERS) Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 17:48:10 -0700 (PDT) Cc: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > _______________________________________________________________________________ > Subject: RE: Car Security. (Baby gone, etc) > From: David Rees at Internet > Date: 5/23/96 4:29 PM > > > They claimed that the "key" (circuit board) is unique, but in fact there > > are only 5 or 6 contacts on the board. There are only so many combinations > > you can come up with so few contacts. > > It wouldn't be that hard to make it so that the key is very unique. All > they have to do is put a resistor of any value in the circuit board (the > computer can be made to recognize only one resistance) and voila! > Virtually infinate combinations. (At least hundreds of thousands anyway!) > > Dave > Computer systems only recognized binary information, so in order to make the computer recognize a particular resistance would require a voltage detector coupled to an A/D converter + decoder which adds $$$ to an otherwise simple "key". Later, Micky '89 SC MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: shocked! To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR Celica GT-R) Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 18:42:31 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I myself own an '86 celica GTS. It too has more wheel-well space in the front than the rear. Figure that one out. Anyways, I hear Konis make adjustable shocks that can also be ride-height adjustable. I'm not sure if the ride-height option is available for this car though. I could be wrong. But they are adjustable though, just not height. I also have 215/40/16's which is actually a smaller overall diameter than stock. I should've gotten 215/45/16's or 205/50/16's or even 225/45/16. MAybe even 17 inch wheels. Anyways, anyone interested in lowering this car more should consider H&R springs. From what I hear they lower 1.25inches, and are quite a respectable brand. Then again INtrax makes one that lowers over 2 inches, but they suck, they sag, that is. Richard leongc@sfu.ca '86 celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 19:07:41 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Jacob's Ignitions >From: Chris Myer >Personally, I've been running a Jacob's Mileage Master ignition on my >truck for over 5 years. I've never had a bit of problem with it, and will >keep that ignition in the truck when I replace the engine. The reliability >seems to be excellent. As far as performance, I've since learned a lot >more about ignition requirements, and realize that getting a hotter ignition >really isn't going to do squat for you on a low rpm, low compression 4 cyl. >The only time you need to start being concerned about ignition power is >when you're running high rpms and/or high compression. Now, when I say >high rpms, keep in mind that we're not talking specifically about the >number of times the motor revolves per minute, but rather how many times >the coil has to charge and discharge per minute. In a 4 cylinder running >at 6000 rpm, this is exactly half as many times as an 8 cylinder running >the same speed. So, 4 cylinders, low rpm, low compression means that >big spark doesn't buy you much. So, would a MSD ignition would then work better than Jacob's since they utilize multiple sparks instead of one big spark? How much does an MSD run these days anyway? Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 19:49:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: Simple ignition kill switch (long) To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" , >If you could possibly describe or draw an ASCII diagram of the circuit, I >and others would probably make good use of that system. Here is a description of the circuit that I have installed in my Celica to disable the ignition ("ignition kill switch"). I'm not too good at ASCII art so I will try to describe the circuit instead. The operation is as follows: 1. Turn the key to the ignition position. 2. Place a small magnet on a certain location of the dash board to enable a relay. 3. Once enabled, the magnet can be removed. 4. Turn the key to start the engine. The magnet activates a hidden reed switch that is located behind the dash board. It could also be located in the base of the drivers seat. Disabling the starter is the least effective method. Disabling the ignition or EFI computer will allow the engine to turn over but not start. Disabling the fuel pump will allow carbureted engines to start and run for a minute or so until the fuel in the carb runs out. On my Celica with dual Weber DCOEs, I can actually drive quite a while before this happens. On EFI engines, the engine *may* start and run for a few seconds, until the fuel in the fuel rail loses pressure. Parts Required (total cost approx. $10 to $15): 1. Automotive relay with a 12V coil and normally open contacts. The current rating of the relay contacts should be high enough to handle the current to the ignition coil, fuel pump, EFI computer, starter, or whatever item in the car you decide to disable. I like a relay with a rating of 10 amps minimum; 20 amps or 30 amps is even better. The relay coil resistance should be between 20 ohms and 200 ohms. These can be purchased at auto parts stores, or Radio Shack. It will be necessary to calculate the current required by the relay coil. This is equal to the battery voltage divided by the resistance of the relay coil. For example, with a relay coil resistance of 120 ohms, the required current will be: Battery Relay Coil Required Voltage Resistance Current 14 volts 120 ohms 0.117 amps or 117 milli amps (mA) 12 volts 120 ohms 0.100 amps or 100 milli amps (mA) 8 volts 120 ohms 0.066 amps or 66 milli amps (mA) I chose 8 volts as the minimum battery voltage when starting the car. It could be lower in cold climates. It is important that the relay be able to maintain closed contacts when the battery voltage drops. Otherwise the car will NEVER start! 2. Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR), also called a Thyristor. I think they are available at Radio Shack. This is a three terminal device, and acts as a latching solid state switch. The three connections are the gate, anode, and cathode. It is turned ON by applying a voltage to the gate so that the "turn-on current" is exceeded. The device will remain ON as long as a minimum "holding current" flows from the anode to cathode. The voltage rating should be 100V or more. The current rating should be enough to handle the current to the relay coil (2 to 4 amps is enough). Choose a device with a power type package, for example a TO-220 case. This will be able to dissipate the heat and not require a heat sink. The "latching current" and "holding current" ratings must be less than the current required for the relay coil. See the calculations performed in #1 above. I like to pick an SCR with a "latching current" of 50 mA or less, a "holding current" of 25 mA or less, and a "turn-on current" of 25 mA max. 3. One resistor. The value should be chosen so that the minimum turn on current of the SCR is achieved. Assuming that the battery voltage is 12V when not cranking, a value of 470 ohms should allow enough current to trigger the SCR. The wattage rating should be 0.25 W or more. These are available at Radio Shack. 4. One reed switch. This is a small switch that is activated by a magnet. The actual reed switch is enclosed in a sealed glass cylinder, with a terminal on each end. They are available from Radio Shack. They can also be obtained by disassembling the magnetic switches used in home security systems. The contact rating of the reed switch should be 100 mA or more. The terminal leads are sometimes difficult to solder to. NOTE: Other switches can be used in place of the reed switch. For example, a mercury tilt switch or a simple toggle switch. If a toggle switch is used, then the SCR (and maybe even the relay) can be eliminated since toggle switches can handle lots of current. However, then you are back to the old style kill switch, and you can trash this email. 5. One diode, something like a 1N4001, available from Radio Shack. This is rated at 50V and 1 amp. This is used to suppress the "inductive kickback" from the relay coil when the ignition is turned OFF. Wiring Instructions: 1. Connect a wire from the ignition switch "ignition position" to the anode of the SCR. 2. Connect a wire from the cathode of the SCR to one terminal of the relay coil. 3. Connect a wire from the other terminal of the relay coil to the chassis ground of the vehicle. 4. Connect the anode of the 1N4001 diode to the relay coil terminal that is connected to ground. 5. Connect the cathode of the 1N4001 diode to the other terminal of the relay coil. 6. Connect a wire from the gate of the SCR to one terminal of the resistor. 7. Connect a wire from the other terminal of the resistor to one terminal of the reed switch. 8. Connect a wire from the other terminal of the reed switch to the anode of the SCR. 9. Connect the two terminals on the relay that connect to the relay contacts in line with whatever device you decide to disable. This could be the fuel pump, ignition coil, power to the EFI computer, or starter relay. Installation Instructions: The most reliable connections will be achieved by soldering all connections. Be sure to insulate all connections with electrical tape (and also shrink tubing if available). The SCR, relay, diode, and resistor should be mounted in a location that is somewhat hard to get to, so that it can not be easily bypassed. Mount the reed switch in a location so that it can be activated by a magnet (behind dash board, etc). Please forward any errors to: Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com Rev 1.0 23MAY96 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 21:52:28 -0700 Subject: Re: Bearing replacement To: GBELL@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Thu, 23 May 1996, GBELL@UBmail.ubalt.edu wrote: >A note about replacing bearings. Always replace ALL of the bearings. >don't try to save money using some of the old bearings mixed in with the >new ones. While working as an aircraft mechanic, we always replaced any bearing that was removed. The reasoning being: new bearings are cheap compared to the damage that could be caused by worn or damaged ones. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 22:01:46 -0700 Subject: Re: Jacob's Ignitions To: David Rees , On Thu, 23 May 1996, David Rees wrote: >So, would a MSD ignition would then work better than Jacob's since they >utilize multiple sparks instead of one big spark? How much does an MSD run >these days anyway? I question the concept of multiple sparks based on the fact that once the fire starts, it's not likely to go out. IMO the main benefit of MSD is in the amplification and higher power. The multiple spark only seemed to help smooth a rough idle when I had one installed on a pickup. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 23:25:27 -0700 To: toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Cutting Springs I've been looking for shorter and preferablystiffer springs for my '81 Celica, but either no one makes them at all, or they've discontinued them (Tokico and TRD). So, I want to cut a coil (not multiple coils, just one) to drop the car an inch or so to get rid of fender gap. Has anyone done this with success? I know that cutting springs comprises the structural integrity of the spring, and probably will wear out shocks faster too, but what if I accompany the cut with upgraded shocks? (Tokico still makes some for my '81 Celica) Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 17:27:56 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: David Rees Cc: toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Cutting Springs On Thu, 23 May 1996, David Rees wrote: > I've been looking for shorter and preferablystiffer springs for my '81 > Celica, but either no one makes them at all, or they've discontinued them > (Tokico and TRD). So, I want to cut a coil (not multiple coils, just one) > to drop the car an inch or so to get rid of fender gap. Has anyone done > this with success? I know that cutting springs comprises the structural > integrity of the spring, and probably will wear out shocks faster too, but > what if I accompany the cut with upgraded shocks? (Tokico still makes some > for my '81 Celica) Call me stupid if you must but are there no specialist suspension shops in the US ?? We have a number in Aus (one I use is a local company called King Springs) who can make a custom set of springs to your required specs - give 'em a coil diameter, fre-standing height and spring rate and they will do it - or take the car in and say what you want (a bit harder with a drop of one inch) and they will do this. Surely there is some suspension place that will do this in your area ?? Much better than cutting springs...something that I cringe at... :) Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 09:05:53 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Nortel - RTP Lab Main Site. >>From: Chris Myer >>Personally, I've been running a Jacob's Mileage Master ignition on my >>truck for over 5 years. I've never had a bit of problem with it, and will >>keep that ignition in the truck when I replace the engine. The reliability >>seems to be excellent. As far as performance, I've since learned a lot >>more about ignition requirements, and realize that getting a hotter ignition >>really isn't going to do squat for you on a low rpm, low compression 4 cyl. >>The only time you need to start being concerned about ignition power is >>when you're running high rpms and/or high compression. Now, when I say >>high rpms, keep in mind that we're not talking specifically about the >>number of times the motor revolves per minute, but rather how many times >>the coil has to charge and discharge per minute. In a 4 cylinder running >>at 6000 rpm, this is exactly half as many times as an 8 cylinder running >>the same speed. So, 4 cylinders, low rpm, low compression means that >>big spark doesn't buy you much. >So, would a MSD ignition would then work better than Jacob's since they >utilize multiple sparks instead of one big spark? How much does an MSD run >these days anyway? >Dave Dave, IMO I do not see how multiple sparks could perform any better, or any worse either. Being a Hardware Design Engineer, I wanted to find out in detail how the Jacobs worked so I spent quiet a bit of time with their customer service manager on the phone picking what I could out of them before I purchased one of their units. The Jacobs is not just one big spark, it is a calibrated spark dependent on the amount of fuel in the cylinder. This is sensed by applying a small amount of current to the plug which will vary impeadence as the amount of fuel exposed to the tip and anode of the plug varies (under load, or no load). After sensing the amount of fuel and firing the plug for that particular cylinders requirements and that given cycle, their computer measures for presense of fuel in the cylinder again. If a fuel mixture is still present, the Jacobs will re-fire the plug. According to their service manager, the Milage Master computer is capable of this re-fire function, the unit called the omni-pak does not have the re-fire capability. However, as of 3 months ago they were changing the microprocessor in the omni-pak to allow for re-fire capability. Not to start a debate (like the header debate) but again IMO, for me, I felt this was a better way of spark control vs. firing the plug 8 times no matter what the cylinder fuel conditions are. Steve McAlister Senior Hardware Design Engineer Bell Northern Research As usual, opinions are of my own and not my employer xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Fri, 24 May 96 07:41:59 CST To: toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: Cutting Springs I cut one turn off the front springs on both of my 77 celicas. So far no problems. Alignment is still in spec. I couldn't detect any change in ride stiffness. I understand that cutting the spring will put more stress per inch of the remaining spring. Could someone explain why cutting the spring would affect the life of the shocks? I just happen to replace the struts at the same time that I cut the springs. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Cutting Springs Author: David Rees at INTERNET-HUB Date: 5/24/96 2:01 AM I've been looking for shorter and preferablystiffer springs for my '81 Celica, but either no one makes them at all, or they've discontinued them (Tokico and TRD). So, I want to cut a coil (not multiple coils, just one) to drop the car an inch or so to get rid of fender gap. Has anyone done this with success? I know that cutting springs comprises the structural integrity of the spring, and probably will wear out shocks faster too, but what if I accompany the cut with upgraded shocks? (Tokico still makes some for my '81 Celica) Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Fri, 24 May 96 08:54:59 -0600 Subject: Bearing Sources??? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello, All this talk about bearings, so I decided to ask if anyone knew of a source of a bearing & synchro kit for a G52 trans in a 22R Pickup? Mine is starting to make a little noise, so I figure I'd do the rebuild before something breaks! Thanks, Brian On Thu, 23 May 1996, kca@interserv.com wrote: > >On Thu, 23 May 1996, GBELL@UBmail.ubalt.edu wrote: > >>A note about replacing bearings. Always replace ALL of the bearings. >>don't try to save money using some of the old bearings mixed in with the >>new ones. > >While working as an aircraft mechanic, we always replaced any bearing that was >removed. > >The reasoning being: new bearings are cheap compared to the damage that could >be caused by worn or damaged ones. > >Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| >91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| >kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| >http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "bcc: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus" From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 24 May 96 11:00:19 EDT Subject: Re: shocked! I wouldn't worry about wheel-well space, personally. I never make a modification for show, only for go--something that makes a difference in times over some course, and preferably lower times. But, I know there're folks who are concerned with more show than go, and some folks are concerned with both. The Illumina must be a high-pressure gas shock, and it would have been nice if they'd let you know that installing the shocks might change ride height. To those chassis engineers that set up racing cars, ride height is absolutely critical, and they spend a lot of time getting this right as part of sorting out a car. Imagine if the McLaren team installed a set of shocks that raised the car by 1/4 inch, they'd have a heart attack. But for our purposes, static ride height it isn't that critical (unless you've fabricated a venturi undertray to your car, now there'd be mod!). And lowering the car isn't always a great idea. Lowering center of gravity is almost always a good idea, but you can run into a number of problem conditions. 1) What you gain in advantage from lower CG can be undone by what you lost in geometry--the roll centers get thrown off. To correct this, you need to relocate the suspension pick up points. 2) You end up on the bump stops. You absolutely do not want to do this. Regular contact with the bump stop is fastest way to break things, and to loose handling. The spring and damping rates, and attendant loads, go off the scale in a dramatic spiking curve. This is no good. This is not the way to limit compression suspension travel. There're some easy answers to all of this. Yes, you can fit shorter springs. You can cut off a few coils. If you cut off coils, you just need to know that there're a number of different ways final coils are finished, and sometimes this is important to fitting them to the car correctly. And you need to know that the spring rates will go up a bit. Again, watch out for the bump stops, which are on the damper piston shaft, in this case. You can cut them to shorten them, but you want to make sure that at your planned ride height you're not hitting the stops regularly. If at this ride height you've only got a tiny bit of shock travel remaining, you've got fit a damper that's made for this application, or relocate the upper damper mounting to allow for more damper travel. And, as some folks on this list may remember me saying before (yes, I'm repeating myself--again), a good solution to the issue of ride height is to make it adjustable with whatever spring rate and free length you want to use. Fit adjustable spring perches. This won't solve the damper travel issue, but it will allow you to get away from springs that someone has designed specifically for your car, and that only fit your car, and you can adjust the ride height all you want. If you have access to scales, you can easily corner weight the car, too. I'm pretty sure it was Suspension Techniques that I spoke with that sells the kits. All you've got to do is cut off the spring perch that's welded to strut body, and weld, or have someone weld, and inexpensive threaded collar to the strut body. Then fit the locking nuts, then slide on the spring perch, then the spring, and adjust ride height until your heart's content. Now to find a spring for the car, all you have to do is pick up an Eibach or Hypercoil catalog worry about i.d. and rate, and free length doesn't become so critical, since you can adjust height, though you do need to run some simple calculations based on the specifications of a spring you that you know fits the car. I run 2.25 inch i.d. springs on all my cars because this is the most popular spring size for racing cars. Just about every FF and sports racer uses this size, so they're easily available right off the shelf in all kinds of lengths and rates. - Steven xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 14:22:17 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: 81 Celica vs. 82 Celica Does anyone know of the differences between the 81 vs. 82 Celicas? I've been searching for hop-up parts for my 81 Celica but to no avail. It seems that no-one makes parts for these cars anymore, only the 82+! What's the difference in the suspension? (I need springs!) I know that some 82+ Celicas has IRS, but many also had solid rear axle too. How are they different from the 81? Thanks, Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 24 May 96 16:24 CDT From: ikhifa@mailhost.accesscom.net (patrick ikhifa) Subject: What is running rich in a 4A-GE? Guys, I hope this does'nt s[ark a debate like the great Stock Vs Header (4A-GE). Anyway on to my question: What does running rich in a fuel injected car rhat has an ECU mean? here's why, i) an examination of the tail pipe is rich with soot, ii) Fuel consumption is excessive in HWY driving, iii) thanks to you guys, I now know that I have a failing .... Fuel pump in the tank, iv) I am told by Totyota that there is no prscribed way to lena or richen the fuel mixture in these ECU cars. So I ask "why", he responds "that's the whole point of te ECU, it's supposed to automatically adjust it." then I retort "I have fooled more than one desktop PC in my time, how come why not this one?" Given these four listed conditions, can someone please tell me how to determine the cause(s) of the soot in the tail pipe? i) an examination of the tail pipe is rich with soot, ii) Fuel consumption is excessive in HWY driving, iii) thanks to you guys, I now know that I have a failing .... Fuel pump in the tank, iv) might a K & N air filter be a contributor or the culprit? I have a Totyota Fuel pump ready to go in but I'd like for my FYI, what i need to be aware of once the tank comes down, nodouble jobs. Fuel consumption rate is currently about 16 mpg!!!that's unacceptable. Thanks. Patrick, '86 GT-S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 15:30:46 -0700 From: Yoshi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Is there easy lean/rich fuel mixture setting valve? I've gotten NOS installed on my 4AGE and was wondering if there is any easy adjustment I can do to help the engine get richer. The shop I got my NOS installed and the shop I go to refill my tank tells me that the engine is running little lean. Can anybody give me some suggestion? Yoshi nos@earthlink.net 89 MK-1 4AGE K&N Air Filter, HKS exhaust, PIAA 959, NOS 10lbs tank, MOMO Corse, MOMO Shift Knob, Clarion Tape deck, Clarion 6CD changer, Clarion EQ, MB quart custom box X 2, Bazooka 6 1/2" bass tubes, Cliff Design speakes, PPI 240 Watt Amp, Sound Stream Reference 200 or 300 (I forgot). 16" TSW Stealth Chrome, 205/40R16 front, 215/40R16 rear. BF Goodrich T/A Euro Radial. P.S. Just wanted to list what I had in my car. Sorry if I pissed off somebody for listing what I had. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 25 May 96 01:10:23 UT From: "Don Dressel" <1965GTO@msn.com> To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tensioner Pulley I am almost done rebuilding the 7MGE motor in my 87 Supra and wanted to know if the tensioner pulley should be replaced. The motor had 149,000 miles and although I'm not the original owner, the old pulley seems fine compared to a new pulley; I don't know if it was replaced by the previous owner. Can someone tell me if it is common practice to replace the pulley or is this like the rest of the care--durable? Also, thanks to everyone that responded to my earlier e-mail about locating a rebuildable crankshaft or shortblock for a 7MGE. Unfortunately, I had to ask the engine shop to locate a crank--used cranks are few and far between, unless you want to take a chance on a crank out of a blown motor. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 18:13:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: 81 Celica vs. 82 Celica To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" I put aftermarket springs from the 82-85 series Celica in my 80 Celica and it rides fine, and lower. I don't have many details on who made them or what exact year they are from, because it's been so long and they were sold as a close out item. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 18:49:03 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Is there easy lean/rich fuel mixture setting valve? At 03:30 PM 5/24/96 -0700, you wrote: >I've gotten NOS installed on my 4AGE and was wondering if there is any >easy adjustment I can do to help the engine get richer. The shop I got >my NOS installed and the shop I go to refill my tank tells me that the >engine is running little lean. Can anybody give me some suggestion? > >Yoshi >nos@earthlink.net >89 MK-1 4AGE >K&N Air Filter, HKS exhaust, PIAA 959, NOS 10lbs tank, MOMO Corse, MOMO >Shift Knob, Clarion Tape deck, Clarion 6CD changer, Clarion EQ, MB quart >custom box X 2, Bazooka 6 1/2" bass tubes, Cliff Design speakes, PPI 240 >Watt Amp, Sound Stream Reference 200 or 300 (I forgot). 16" TSW Stealth >Chrome, 205/40R16 front, 215/40R16 rear. BF Goodrich T/A Euro Radial. > >P.S. Just wanted to list what I had in my car. Sorry if I pissed off >somebody for listing what I had. > Is it a Dry or Wet manifold system? If it has a fogger it is wet. Is the car lean only when using the nitrous oxide? If Wet and lean only on the Nitrous, simply go 1 larger size on the fuel jet in the fogger. If its Dry and only lean on nitrous you need to increase the jet size in the regulator that came with the kit. If the jet in the regulator does not help, you are in need of a better fuel pump to provide adequate fuel pressures. The fuel pressures on these systems may rise above 100 psi. If the car is lean even without the nitrous you may be able to adjust the mixture screw in the Flapper box or perhaps change a spring. Someone else would probably be able to guide you through that, I have not done it. Also, what is the supposed HP rating of the nitrous jetting currently in your system? Jason McDonald 87 MR2 N/A xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 19:31:31 -0700 To: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" , From: David Rees Subject: RE: 81 Celica vs. 82 Celica At 06:13 PM 5/24/96 -0700, you wrote: > >I put aftermarket springs from the 82-85 series Celica in my 80 Celica and >it rides fine, and lower. I don't have many details on who made them or >what exact year they are from, because it's been so long and they were sold >as a close out item. >Bryan Zublin >bzublin@gi.com Is your Celica a liftback (hatchback) or coupe Bryan? I suspected that there wasn't any suspension differences between the 80-81 Celicas and 82-85 Celica as they appear to be almost exactly the same mechanically (save for EFI in later models). xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: shocked! To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR Celica GT-R) Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 20:29:58 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Actually I run P700's on TSW Stealths. And they're quite good on handling, in the dry that is. I've never heard my tires screeching yet when I do harsh turns. I'm not stupid to do stunts in the rain. Anyways, I found out later that Toyo makes a tire for that size that is pretty good. Too late now. IN the future I'll probably get 215/45/16 Continentals or 225/40/16 sp8000s. Richard leongc@sfu.ca '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Dave's strut bar MR2 Question To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 00:11:52 -0400 (EDT) To Dave Aucott, I have the stock front strut bar on my '85 that came from the factory and it has mounting points for the sunroof storage. I am told that the one on the later MR2's does not allow the sunroof to be stored. If you have the sunroof, I'd look for one from an '85. Aly :) '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Surface Rust near engine To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 00:19:13 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Hi All, I have noticed some Surface rust under the car on some parts around the engine, including the driveshafts, and some of the other metal parts. I'd like some ideas on the best way to remove this rust and prevent it from returning. How about if I just sand it off lightly and then paint these parts? Or is it better to use a different kind of coating? Any Ideas are helpful, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 08:36:24 -0400 To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: strut bar MR2 Question In a message dated 96-05-25 06:13:05 EDT, you write: > I have the stock front strut bar on my '85 that came from the >factory and it has mounting points for the sunroof storage. I am told that >the one on the later MR2's does not allow the sunroof to be stored. If you >have the sunroof, I'd look for one from an '85. Chris B. has an '88 with the strut tower brace, and he has a sunroof... and it has the mounting locations. The RH (passenger side) rearward sunroof mount is on the body like my '86, but the LH rearward sunroof mount is on the brace, whereas my '86 has it also on the body. The front mount is the same. He also appears to have the mounting locations in the firewall for the body-mount type sunroof mount on the LH side. How is your '85 set up? If yours came from the factory, I wonder if they dumped that along with the rear anti-sway bar! Hmmm..... Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 10:14:40 -0500 To: Daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: strut bar MR2 Question Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Other way around - the front strut brace was introduced late, and the rear sway bar was removed late. There appears to be (2) different front strut braces - those for sunroof'ed cars, and those for t-top'ed cars. Both will work, but the sunroof brace in a sunroof car is best. Steve B. >In a message dated 96-05-25 06:13:05 EDT, you write: > >> I have the stock front strut bar on my '85 that came from the >>factory and it has mounting points for the sunroof storage. I am told that >>the one on the later MR2's does not allow the sunroof to be stored. If you >>have the sunroof, I'd look for one from an '85. > >Chris B. has an '88 with the strut tower brace, and he has a sunroof... and >it has the mounting locations. The RH (passenger side) rearward sunroof >mount is on the body like my '86, but the LH rearward sunroof mount is on the >brace, whereas my '86 has it also on the body. The front mount is the same. > He also appears to have the mounting locations in the firewall for the >body-mount type sunroof mount on the LH side. How is your '85 set up? If >yours came from the factory, I wonder if they dumped that along with the rear >anti-sway bar! Hmmm..... > >Dave A. >daucott@aol.com bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 2X CD-ROM burner - Feel The Burn xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ARacer@aol.com Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 18:05:59 -0400 To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Simple ignition kill switch >Here is a description of the circuit that I have installed in my Celica to >disable the ignition ("ignition kill switch"). Thanks, Bryan, for the excellent detailed information. I would be interested to know how one might add an anti-carjack feature that would kill the engine 60 seconds or so after the driver's door is opened unless the magnetic switch/relay is activated again. Ed Pitts 88 Corolla xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Tony Lanterman Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 15:53:25 -0700 (PDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 85 Celica Conv. question Hod do you get the covers off the rear speakers? I believe both of them are blown and need to be replaced, but I can't figure out how to get the covers off without just random pulling on things. Woodsprite ********************************************************************** * Without ice cream * 1985 Celica GT-S * Joe Woodsprite * * there would be * Convertible * Unsafe at any speed * * darkness and * I don't drive * * * chaos. * fast. * lantera@teleport.com * * -- * I fly low. * * * Don Kardong * 1983 Celica ST * dod #1456 * * * 72 Honda CB350 * Where's Julie? * ********************************************************************** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 17:49:50 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Simple ignition kill switch At 06:05 PM 5/25/96 -0400, you wrote: >>Here is a description of the circuit that I have installed in my Celica to >>disable the ignition ("ignition kill switch"). > >Thanks, Bryan, for the excellent detailed information. > >I would be interested to know how one might add an anti-carjack feature that >would kill the engine 60 seconds or so after the driver's door is opened >unless the magnetic switch/relay is activated again. > >Ed Pitts >88 Corolla > HOFCO sells a system that does just that. It works the best out of all the "anti-carjack" systems I have seen. Don't have their phone number, but they are located in Culver City, CA. It's the 310 area code. Jason McDonald 87 MR2 N/A xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Starlet16v@aol.com Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 21:15:36 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Cam for 4KC Thanx Craig the Crane cam that runs for $150 sounds the best, are those Crane cams brand new? I don't need a full race cam, a road rally or mild cam would do just fine. I'd like some more info on Crane cams though thanks again Radley 82' Starlet xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 10:37:07 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bcarlson@mail.utexas.edu (Bryan Carlson) Subject: Burning oil Hello everyone, I have a question for you all. I have a 1991 MR@ Turbo 3sgte engine and it has @73000 miles on it. On my last oil change the dealer informed me that it look as though my car is burning oil. This seems believeable (the car has been drive hard on occasion). Should I be terribly concerned about this? As long as I kep the car topped of with oil what are the other potential problems which might arise? Most importantly what about the mods I was going to do prior to finding this out? SHould I wait until after I rebuild to do any mods? IS there anything in particular I should steer clear of? Is there anything that will help? thanks for any info Ciao Bryan xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 18:20:12 +0200 To: ARacer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Simple ignition kill switch Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >>Here is a description of the circuit that I have installed in my Celica to >>disable the ignition ("ignition kill switch"). > >Thanks, Bryan, for the excellent detailed information. > >I would be interested to know how one might add an anti-carjack feature that >would kill the engine 60 seconds or so after the driver's door is opened >unless the magnetic switch/relay is activated again. > >Ed Pitts >88 Corolla The ignition kill switch or any other similar unit IMHO must fulfill the following: 1) Arm itself automatically when turning the ignition off. How many times have we forgotten to arm the alarm?? 2) Disengage with a "secret" switch while cranking the engine to start. 3) Consume no power when armed, consume power when disarmed and engine operating. This way it will not drain the battery on long stops and will remain armed even if battery is temp disconnected. 4) Should operate on at least 2 dif places i.e. ignition and fuel pump. 5) Should allow starting of the engine armed but killing it after 10-15 seconds. 6) Be installed in such a way as to allow a bypass should one leave the car for wash or maintenance. The bypass should NOT be a switch,for it can be easely located given time at a garage, it should be a replacement part looking the same with the original unit so as not to be suspected. 5 out of 10 the theft is based on knowledge of the alarm system either by the ....sticker...on the car..."protected by xxx" or from "inside info" car washs, garage boys etc. 7) No other person but the owner should know of its existence (see above 6) or how it operates. 8) Should be installed in addition to the stock or any aftermarket system. 9) Should be immune to high voltage spikes etc. (no active components transistors etc.) Such a system, costs about 10 to 15 $ it is easy to build and installed and has the most chances to save your car in case of attempted theft. It worked 3 times perfectly on my Vitara jeap. For more info e-mail me directly. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 09:30:50 -0700 Subject: Re: Burning oil To: bcarlson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bryan Carlson), On Sun, 26 May 1996, bcarlson@mail.utexas.edu (Bryan Carlson) wrote: >Hello everyone, >I have a question for you all. I have a 1991 MR@ Turbo 3sgte engine and it >has @73000 miles on it. On my last oil change the dealer informed me that >it look as though my car is burning oil. What made him think the car was burning excessive oil? It's fairly common for the 3sgte to be down a quart inside of 5000 miles. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 22:43:10 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) Subject: R-134A & Air Bags I'm looking to get a late model Camry. I don't want the R-12 freon hassle in future years and I want dual airbags. What is the *oldest* model Camry which has R-134A and dual bags? Thanks. Dick Byrd byrd@mnsinc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 21:58:49 -0700 From: Yoshi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Is there easy lean/rich fuel mixture setting valve? Jason McDonald wrote: > > At 03:30 PM 5/24/96 -0700, you wrote: > >I've gotten NOS installed on my 4AGE and was wondering if there is any > >easy adjustment I can do to help the engine get richer. The shop I got > >my NOS installed and the shop I go to refill my tank tells me that the > >engine is running little lean. Can anybody give me some suggestion? > > > >Yoshi > >nos@earthlink.net > >89 MK-1 4AGE > >K&N Air Filter, HKS exhaust, PIAA 959, NOS 10lbs tank, MOMO Corse, MOMO > >Shift Knob, Clarion Tape deck, Clarion 6CD changer, Clarion EQ, MB quart > >custom box X 2, Bazooka 6 1/2" bass tubes, Cliff Design speakes, PPI 240 > >Watt Amp, Sound Stream Reference 200 or 300 (I forgot). 16" TSW Stealth > >Chrome, 205/40R16 front, 215/40R16 rear. BF Goodrich T/A Euro Radial. > > > >P.S. Just wanted to list what I had in my car. Sorry if I pissed off > >somebody for listing what I had. > > > Is it a Dry or Wet manifold system? If it has a fogger it is wet. Is the > car lean only when using the nitrous oxide? If Wet and lean only on the > Nitrous, simply go 1 larger size on the fuel jet in the fogger. If its Dry > and only lean on nitrous you need to increase the jet size in the regulator > that came with the kit. If the jet in the regulator does not help, you are > in need of a better fuel pump to provide adequate fuel pressures. The fuel > pressures on these systems may rise above 100 psi. If the car is lean even > without the nitrous you may be able to adjust the mixture screw in the > Flapper box or perhaps change a spring. Someone else would probably be able > to guide you through that, I have not done it. Also, what is the supposed > HP rating of the nitrous jetting currently in your system? > > Jason McDonald > 87 MR2 N/A I have a fogger so that'll make it a wet system. Anyway, my HP rating for the jetting is approximately 55 or 65hp since I have to use it for my daily driving as well as pass that damn CA smong check every 2 years. It has to be "smog passable" and reliable. Nowadays, the shops around southern Cal are making fuss about having additional things add-on to the systems although my engine has passed the test twice already with the same settings. It totally sucks!! Anyway, back to NOS. My system is somewhat unique or new in that sense that there is only one jet. The guy who installed it told me that this is new for EFI engine. Any addtional things you can tell me with this info? I'm not that knowledgeable in regards to engine mechanics. JUST WANT SOME MORE POWER like Tim Allen. Yoshi nos@earthlink.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ACAtwood@aol.com Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 10:41:32 -0400 To: kca@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 91 turbo pinging hello Kip, hope you can help me with a problem. My 91 turbo with 79k is pinging during hard acceleration. I have tried all the usual fixes new plugs,wires,air and fuel filters. My cap and rotor look okay timing is set on 10 btdc. I pulled the distributor checked the pickups all within specs per factory manual. I purchased this vehicle 2 months ago so i don't know if the timing belt was replaced,is definitely on my do list. thank you, Chuck Atwood white 91T xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Mess3@aol.com Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 11:52:04 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Turbo problem HELP!!! I have an 1987 Supra that I bought in April (nice car). It has 86k miles and is starting to blow smoke through the exhaust. The engine runs strong so maybe the problem lies in the turbo? The impellar seems to turn free. Is there any kind of oil seal or other clog that may produce this effect (low dollar fix) if so then how do I fix. Could certainly use some help. Thanks! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 18:00:08 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Super killer Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com --=====================_833238008==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" After all the requests I received for the super antitheft device here it is. Pkunzip it and you will get a .DOC. Read it with word. It is simple, cheap, failproff,autoarming, draws no battery at standstil, etc............ Is there something more you wanted that it will not do?????? 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--=====================_833238008==_-- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 12:19:50 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Is there easy lean/rich fuel mixture setting valve? At 09:58 PM 5/26/96 -0700, you wrote: > >I have a fogger so that'll make it a wet system. Anyway, my HP rating >for the jetting is approximately 55 or 65hp since I have to use it for >my daily driving as well as pass that damn CA smong check every 2 years. > It has to be "smog passable" and reliable. Nowadays, the shops around >southern Cal are making fuss about having additional things add-on to >the systems although my engine has passed the test twice already with >the same settings. It totally sucks!! > Anyway, back to NOS. My system is somewhat unique or new in >that sense that there is only one jet. The guy who installed it told me >that this is new for EFI engine. Any addtional things you can tell me >with this info? I'm not that knowledgeable in regards to engine >mechanics. JUST WANT SOME MORE POWER like Tim Allen. > >Yoshi >nos@earthlink.net > Ok, if you only have a single nozzle with only 1 line going into it, it is a dry manifold system. If they told you it is an EFI system, then I'm almost positive it is a dry system. The 1 nozzle you see injects the Nitrous into the airstream. There should be a regulator somewhere with a line that Tee's into the vaccuum line that goes to your rail fuel pressure regulator. This Nitrous regulator outlets nitrous into the vaccuum line at a determined pressure in an attempt to raise the fuel rail pressure to provide the additional fuel your NOS system needs. If your car is lean only on Nitrous, what you need to do is get the fuel pressure higher by changing the jet in the Nitrous regulator. The regulator should be located between the two Nitrous solenoids. The solenoids are about the size of a roll of quarters with a white sticker with blue stripes on them. You may want to go back to the place that installed your system since you will have to buy a $3-5 jet from them anyway. Also, regarding emissions, your nitrous oxide system should not affect your emissions directly. When the system is not activated, it changes nothing on your engine. However, repeated use of the system at high HP levels on a "tired" motor will begin to increase your blow-by and oil consumption raising your HydroCarbon outputs. When it gets really bad it may keep you from passing. If this happens, most likely your rings are shot and you'll need to replace the rings at least. My advice to you is that you go back and get your mixture corrected right away, and use the Nitrous sparingly. I speak from experience. I put a mild 50hp kit on my mr2 right after I got it, and the sucker went lean on me and I melted three sparkplugs and managed to chip away a whole 1/3 of 1 valve! Finishing the rebuild as I write this. Jason McDonald 87 MR2 N/A xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 14:37:23 -0500 To: ACAtwood@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: 91 turbo pinging Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >hello Kip, >hope you can help me with a problem. My 91 turbo with 79k is pinging during >hard acceleration. I have tried all the usual fixes new plugs,wires,air and >fuel filters. My cap and rotor look okay timing is set on 10 btdc. I pulled >the distributor checked the pickups all within specs per factory manual. I >purchased this vehicle 2 months ago so i don't know if the timing belt was >replaced,is definitely on my do list. >thank you, Have you checked the knock sensor? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '85 MR2 169k miles - parts car (special - '85 catalytic converter, $50). '91 MR2T 78k miles - daily driver Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 2X CD-ROM burner - Feel The Burn xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 27 May 96 16:07:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Joseph Horton To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Chuck Horton Location: Pittsburgh (soon) Model : '73 Land Cruiser FJ40 Engine : Chevrolet 350 Mods : Engine, clutch (Centerforce), extra lights, stereo, fuzzy dice:) email : jah@med.pitt.edu Chuck xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:14:08 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 185/70 x 13 tyres Does anyone out there know of a good brand/type steel belt 185/70 13 tyre I can use on my Lotus 7 replica? I want to stay 13 inch 'cos of the classic dunlop mags on it. I drive in excess of 20,000 miles per year, so they need to be reasonably durable. Something good in the wet would be nice. Funny thing - no one seems to make high performance 70 profiles...! Thanks in advance Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North, New Zealand 20 valve VVT Toyota powered Lotus 7 replica - 'Built to drive, not look at' xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: Mess3@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 17:44:21 EDT Subject: Re: Turbo problem Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > HELP!!! > I have an 1987 Supra that I bought in April (nice car). It has 86k miles and > is starting to blow smoke through the exhaust. The engine runs strong so > maybe the problem lies in the turbo? The impellar seems to turn free. Is > there any kind of oil seal or other clog that may produce this effect (low > dollar fix) if so then how do I fix. Could certainly use some help. > First of all you should determine what colour the smoke is. Black smoke is caused by an overrich mixture. White smoke is caused by coolant in the combustion chamber and blue smoke is caused by oil entering the combustion chamber. If you have white smoke chances are that the head gasket is blown. If you have blue smoke, oil can be entering the combustion chamber most likely past worn rings or through the valve guides. If you have white or blue smoke you should run a compression check on all the cylinders and compare them to each other. They should all be somewhat near to each other in value. If one of them is off by a lot you have isolated the bad cylinder. If the compression is OK then oil is probably getting into the cylinder through the valve guides and is not a really big deal. Let me know how it goes. Good luck, gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca > > Thanks! > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 14:49:57 -0700 From: Yoshi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Is there easy lean/rich fuel mixture setting valve? Jason McDonald wrote: > Ok, if you only have a single nozzle with only 1 line going into it, it is a > dry manifold system. If they told you it is an EFI system, then I'm almost > positive it is a dry system. The 1 nozzle you see injects the Nitrous into > the airstream. There should be a regulator somewhere with a line that Tee's > into the vaccuum line that goes to your rail fuel pressure regulator. This > Nitrous regulator outlets nitrous into the vaccuum line at a determined > pressure in an attempt to raise the fuel rail pressure to provide the > additional fuel your NOS system needs. If your car is lean only on Nitrous, > what you need to do is get the fuel pressure higher by changing the jet in > the Nitrous regulator. The regulator should be located between the two > Nitrous solenoids. The solenoids are about the size of a roll of quarters > with a white sticker with blue stripes on them. You may want to go back to > the place that installed your system since you will have to buy a $3-5 jet > from them anyway. > Also, regarding emissions, your nitrous oxide system should not > affect your emissions directly. When the system is not activated, it > changes nothing on your engine. However, repeated use of the system at high > HP levels on a "tired" motor will begin to increase your blow-by and oil > consumption raising your HydroCarbon outputs. When it gets really bad it > may keep you from passing. If this happens, most likely your rings are shot > and you'll need to replace the rings at least. My advice to you is that you > go back and get your mixture corrected right away, and use the Nitrous > sparingly. I speak from experience. I put a mild 50hp kit on my mr2 right > after I got it, and the sucker went lean on me and I melted three sparkplugs > and managed to chip away a whole 1/3 of 1 valve! Finishing the rebuild as I > write this. > > Jason McDonald > 87 MR2 N/A Talk about melting sparkplugs!! I remember melting same number of plugs on my car too. During then I used that plug that has v-shaped tips. Now I'm using NGK's Gold V Palladium. It works lot better. Yoshi xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Turbo problem To: Mess3@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 01:23:35 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > HELP!!! > I have an 1987 Supra that I bought in April (nice car). It has 86k miles and > is starting to blow smoke through the exhaust. The engine runs strong so > maybe the problem lies in the turbo? The impellar seems to turn free. Is > there any kind of oil seal or other clog that may produce this effect (low > dollar fix) if so then how do I fix. Could certainly use some help. Is the smoke blue? Under what conditions does it smoke? Startup? Warm idle? High vacuum? Full load? If it indeed is turbo leaking oil, you will find lots of it in the intake pipes and throttle body. Also, feel if there is play in the turbo bearings, gently try to move the shaft in both sideways and back-fort. There should be enough to feel it, but more than about 1mm is big trouble. It's much more common for the Supras to blow head gaskets though, resulting in white smoke... (all cars give white smoke sometimes, but not in warm weather and warmed-up engine). Check for coolant loss if it's white. Tell us more about it and we'll try to help more. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 15:38:13 -0700 To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: David Rees Subject: Re: 185/70 x 13 tyres What about going with a 185/60 x 13 tire? You can get the Yokohama AVS Intermediate in that size, even V rated! The only problem will be that it will reduce your gearing a bit. Otherwise you'll be going with a tire that won't be very high performance... Dave At 09:14 AM 5/28/96 +1200, you wrote: >Does anyone out there know of a good brand/type steel belt 185/70 13 tyre I >can use on my Lotus 7 replica? I want to stay 13 inch 'cos of the classic >dunlop mags on it. I drive in excess of 20,000 miles per year, so they need >to be reasonably durable. Something good in the wet would be nice. Funny >thing - no one seems to make high performance 70 profiles...! > >Thanks in advance > >Phil Bradshaw >Palmerston North, New Zealand >20 valve VVT Toyota powered Lotus 7 replica - 'Built to drive, not look at' > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 16:24:24 -0700 Subject: Re: Turbo problem To: Mess3@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Mon, 27 May 1996, Mess3@aol.com wrote: >HELP!!! >I have an 1987 Supra that I bought in April (nice car). It has 86k miles and >is starting to blow smoke through the exhaust. The engine runs strong so >maybe the problem lies in the turbo? The impellar seems to turn free. Is >there any kind of oil seal or other clog that may produce this effect (low >dollar fix) if so then how do I fix. Could certainly use some help. If it is caused by a leaking turbo seal, there are rebuild kits available for sustantially less than a replacement turbo. Turbo City offers kits and instructional videos on how to rebuild. Ph: 714-639-4933 I'm not sure how difficult the rebuild is, but I recall an article from Turbo & Hi-Tech Mag. that gave the kits a positive review. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 22:43:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Danny Wong To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Danny Wong City: Montreal make: celcia GT engine: 5S-FE mods: GReddy catback exhaust , K&N air charger, sparkplug and wire set and PIAA 910 Email : wong@cs.mcgill.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 17:22:53 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Julie Ziegler Subject: Re: 185/70 x 13 tyres At 09:14 AM 28/05/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >Does anyone out there know of a good brand/type steel belt 185/70 13 tyre I >can use on my Lotus 7 replica? I want to stay 13 inch 'cos of the classic >dunlop mags on it. I drive in excess of 20,000 miles per year, so they need >to be reasonably durable. Something good in the wet would be nice. Funny >thing - no one seems to make high performance 70 profiles...! > >Thanks in advance > >Phil Bradshaw >Palmerston North, New Zealand >20 valve VVT Toyota powered Lotus 7 replica - 'Built to drive, not look at' > Hi Phil Yep, Phil you are right bout the 70 profile tyres. How about some 185/60 Hancooks. They are very cheap and stick very well (especially for the money). They are also very progressive when they do let go. Making it much easier to drive on the limit. I have done 1:10 on them around Pukekohe. On your car they will last for ages. I bought some for the Targa and have done about 15 races on them and will probably still be able to do a few races next year. Driven on the road only these should last for at least 2 years. They work very well in the wet despite the relative lack of tread. So much so I don't even bother swapping to the RE71's anymore whnen racing in the rain. Also it is rumoured that Hoosier are bringing out some new radials. Phil we need soft tyres with our light weight cars, so don't be put off with quoted relatively high wear rates. Tyres on our light cars should be thrown out when they get old not when they wear away! regards Liam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 07:50:09 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Re: Tyres for MK1 MR2 To: Toyota Mods List On Mon, 20 May 1996, Harry Pitaro wrote: > FWIW, I just thought that I would share the following with you. I have > an '87 MR2 and have have tried a variety of tyres, some in a limited > amount of club racing, until I found what I beleive are the best tyres > Yokahama A509 Good in wet. Soft and soggy when warm. IMHO this is the best rain tire I have ever competed on!!! I got the chance to try them out on Wednesday and ran my first ever FTD in the rain, with my '91 MR2T. Even beat out the AWD cars. (Note that I never compete on these under dry conditions - I exclusivelly use the Yoko A008RSII for that). Note: I've run on various Dunlops with my previous MR2's and most recently on RE71's last year - as street tires/rain tires. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: What is running rich in a 4A-GE? Date: Tue, 28 May 96 07:45:54 PDT I was aware that the ECU altered the timing and various other things but = I didn't realise that it altered the mixture as well. Usually there is a = screw to alter that. I had a problem a while a go with a Peugeot 205 GTi. This was doing about= the same mpg as you. Altering the air/fuel mixture didn't make any difference= . They changed the air/fuel mixture unit and this also made no difference. = It seemed as if the choke was full on all the time. The ECU and the choke = were the only two pieces of the air/fuel system that we didn't change. I couldn't = afford to go any further at the time, sold the car and got rid of the problem. Can you alter the air/fuel mixture ? anyone ? ----------------------------------------------------------- Guys, I hope this does'nt s[ark a debate like the great Stock Vs Header (4A-GE). Anyway on to my question: What does running rich in a fuel injected car = rhat has an ECU mean? here's why, i) an examination of the tail pipe is rich = with soot, ii) Fuel consumption is excessive in HWY driving, iii) thanks to = you guys, I now know that I have a failing .... Fuel pump in the tank, iv) = I am told by Totyota that there is no prscribed way to lena or richen the fuel mixture in these ECU cars. So I ask "why", he responds "that's the whole point of te ECU, it's supposed to automatically adjust it." then I retort= "I have fooled more than one desktop PC in my time, how come why not this = one?" Given these four listed conditions, can someone please tell me how to determine the cause(s) of the soot in the tail pipe? i) an examination = of the tail pipe is rich with soot, ii) Fuel consumption is excessive in = HWY driving, iii) thanks to you guys, I now know that I have a failing .... = Fuel pump in the tank, iv) might a K & N air filter be a contributor or the culprit? I have a Totyota Fuel pump ready to go in but I'd like for my = FYI, what i need to be aware of once the tank comes down, nodouble jobs. Fuel consumption rate is currently about 16 mpg!!!that's unacceptable. Thanks. Patrick, '86 GT-S Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 105000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: 185/70 x 13 tyres Date: Tue, 28 May 96 08:18:00 PDT I'm not sure what type of performance you are looking for. But if you are looking for something that will be durable, good in rain and snow then try the Michelin MX4. I have had two sets of these, one on my 79 Corolla (175/70 -13) which had over 20K miles when I sold it and they looked new. I now have them on my 87 Corolla RWD (185/70-13) which I have about 11K miles on them. I am amazed at the stick these tires have in the rain, cold, whenever. I throw the car hard into the corners and they stick extremely well for all-seasons (something that surprised me with Michelins)! During our blizzard we had here in Washington DC I was going places that front drives Honda Accords were getting stuck. I even aim for large rain puddles and can not get these tires to hydroplane. They cost me around $58 US each, so they are not cheap, but I think they are worth the extra price. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ---------- >Does anyone out there know of a good brand/type steel belt 185/70 13 tyre I >can use on my Lotus 7 replica? I want to stay 13 inch 'cos of the classic >dunlop mags on it. I drive in excess of 20,000 miles per year, so they need xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: Re: Turbo problem Date: Tue, 28 May 96 08:23:00 PDT Remember this car he has is a turbo. Could it be that the previous owner ragged the car before the break-in period was over? Also my 93 MR2 turbo has a warning sticker above the visor about hard accelerations before the engine is warm and it also talks about performing idle down. I wonder how the previous owner drove the car? Just my .02 Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ---------- > > HELP!!! > I have an 1987 Supra that I bought in April (nice car). It has 86k miles and > is starting to blow smoke through the exhaust. The engine runs strong so > maybe the problem lies in the turbo? The impellar seems to turn free. Is > there any kind of oil seal or other clog that may produce this effect (low > dollar fix) if so then how do I fix. Could certainly use some help. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 11:46:03 -0700 From: Yoshi To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Is there easy lean/rich fuel mixture setting valve? Gary H wrote: > > Hi Yoshi, > > How did the shop know you were running lean? Better be careful because a > lean condition can do nasty things to your engine. > > I t