Toyota-Mods Postings June 1996

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Jun 1996 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 13:42:56 -0700 To: CIPHeR Celica GT-R , From: David Rees Subject: Re: Cold Air Induction In the Toyota Performance Handbook, they show a Supra which uses aluminum foil to wrap his intake. I guess that would help some, but I think that header wrap would work a lot better, seeing how well they work for holding heat inside headers. Not a bad idea! Dave At 10:46 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: The only problem I thought might occur with this setup is that the hot air surrounding the engine might heat up the air inside the "cold-air intake" pipe, which would sort of defeat the purpose of a cold air induction system, right? :( Maybe the problem could be remedied by wrap! > ping t >he pipe with the same sort of insulating tape used for wrapping headers or something... >just email back if ya feel like it- >antonio alvendia >aponton@concentric.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 16:26:30 -0500 (CDT) From: "Mr. Amano" To: Toyota Mods List Subject: SC MR2 Q's Hi People! I have a friend interested in purchasing a MR2, and he has some questions: 1. When did they start selling SC MR2 in Canada? 2. What are the differences between a SC and a NA of the same generation? 3. ARe they reliable? (since it's based on a 4AG, I assume it is) Thank you, Scott xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 17:05:56 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Airbag At 10:43 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: >I have a problem with my airbag, and haven't been able to figure out the >problem. >I recently had an aftermarket stereo in stalled, and ever since then my >airbag light has been on. Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused >this? >Also has anyone tried puting a superchip in there MKII turbo? > >thanks >Rich Rainaldo >92 MKII turbo > Whoever installed your stereo must have powered up the ignition with the instrument cluster disconnected. This will cause the airbag warning to trigger. Once its triggered it will stay on until you have it reset by the dealer. Someone on this list may know how to do it, but I don't. Jason McDonald 87 MR2 N/A xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 20:53:19 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: my header experience... In a message dated 96-05-31 17:13:28 EDT, you write: >Last week I put a TRD header on my 88 s/c Mk I MR2. I purchased it >about a month or so ago. >But there are other significant negatives: > 1) It's very much noiser than stock. Everything else is stock, even >the exhaust (although I'm changing this very soon) and I didn't expect >the header to make such a large difference. I was wrong. >I also thought that I didn't really care how loud things got. I was >wrong about that too. I find this surprising. I really didn't notice that much of a noise increase over my previous setup. The only real annoying difference was a "swisha swisha" noise audible from the driver seat that wasn't there before. > 2) It's very hot. The head has a shiny finish (chrome?) which >should help reduce radiated heat. But not enough. >It looks like I am boiling the clutch fluid, because I can't disengage the >clutch after running for 1/2 an hour or more---the pedal just goes to >the floor---although it's ok after letting it cool down. Does anyone >know if I've diagnosed this correctly? I've had my TRD header installed since spring, and I've spent over 80 minutes of track time in 20 minute intervals running the crap out of the car, and I've never had the clutch even HINT of fading. Are you sure you have good fluid in there? Have you flushed it recently... at all? The header really isn't that close to the clutch lines or slave cylinder. It'd really surprise me if the heat from the header was causing this problem. >If so I'm going to have to make some sort of heat shield. (Ideas anyone?). > Not a bad idea, but nowhere to mount them on the header. There may be some unused threaded holes on the block that you could bolt to, or maybe on the fire-wall. >The bottom line is that, although I definitely *feel* as though I have >a bit more power (and perhaps that's what counts most), on balance >I regret doing this. Sorry to hear that. You can always take it out... or try Jet Hot! :-) Dave A. daucott@aol.com 1986 MR2 (silver) 1986 MR2 (green) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 21:26:37 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Automatic? NO MORE! Hey folks! It's been a while since I mentioned this project, but I just put the finishing touches on the transmission/soul change from auto to 5-speed in my Green '86 (we call it the Loog, for Luger cuz there's so much green). Suffice it to say, it's possible, and actually not as bad as you might think (thanks Steve B. for all the parts!!). I put in my "custom" 1200lb clutch and a regular flywheel, a K&N filter I had from earlier endeavors, and the car is otherwise stock. It'd be really hard for someone to tell it was once an auto! Just a few wires and... oh yeah... I had to leave in the auto trans neutral start switch -- something really weird with the wiring that doesn't match the factory Toyota manual diagrams. I may just bypass it, but for now it works fine doubling as an antitheft device (I can put the switch in "D" and the starter won't fire) and as a clutch switch bypass, so I don't have to push the clutch in to start the engine. Hey, what was someone saying about remote starting devices? :-) I'm thinking of posting a somewhat detailed message on what you need to look out for and what you need to get if you choose to do this. Please let me know if you're interested in hearing about this -- if there's enough interest I'll post the details. It was really quite interesting how Toyota put all the wiring in for both the auto AND manual trans in this car, thus making otherwise difficult things like wiring the backup light switch easy! Just pull off the tear tape holding the unused connector to the wiring harness and plug it in! Neat. I backed the car out of the driveway today (a major step... the auto trans had no reverse!) and took it on it's maiden voyage. The 1200lb clutch feels the same as my silver car's 1300lb HKS, and about the same as stock. Everything works smoothly and I had no surprises. I replaced the front brake pads and had the rotors turned, and now the brake shudder is long gone (yeah!). I'm going to have to scrap that cheapo aftermarket muffler with the two McDonalds straws for oulets though... I am VERY HAPPY with the results of this mod, and due to the newness of the engine in the Loog (rebuilt about 15K miles ago) the thing runs like new. I'm seriously considering selling my silver car and making this one my autocrosser. I guess that's enough for now! Oh, wait, one more thing: FOR SALE: Automatic transmission, linkages, computer, half shafts, etc. -- everything you need to make your 5-speed into an auto, except the knife (for jabbing into the soul of the MR2). :-) Dave A. daucott@aol.com, daucott@e-mail.com 1986 silver MR2, CSP SCCA modified 1986 green MR2, Stock w/K&N and 1200lb clutch plate. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 22:20:13 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Airbag >At 10:43 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: >>I have a problem with my airbag, and haven't been able to figure out the >>problem. >>I recently had an aftermarket stereo in stalled, and ever since then my >>airbag light has been on. Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused >>this? >>Also has anyone tried puting a superchip in there MKII turbo? >> >>thanks >>Rich Rainaldo >>92 MKII turbo >> >Whoever installed your stereo must have powered up the ignition with the >instrument cluster disconnected. This will cause the airbag warning to >trigger. Once its triggered it will stay on until you have it reset by the >dealer. Someone on this list may know how to do it, but I don't. What type of stereo install would require the instrument cluster to be removed, on a Mk II? Are you refering to the 'guage set'? I've been behind my stereo plenty of times, and have never had to remove the instrument cluster. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR Celica GT-R) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 02:36:16 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Even if it doesn't work, it would sure look nice in the engine compartment. :) Hey antonio, what springs and shocks setup did you say you had on your car again? I was gonna get the H&R springs w/Koni's but dammit, I had to settle for Eibach's because H&R no longer makes springs for my car. They claim Eibach lower at least 1 inch whatever that means. I was tempted to cancel the order to get INtrax instead. Intrax would sure get rid of that wheel well space. Tell me all the specs on yours. Richard '86 Celica GTS leongc@sfu.ca > I know this email was sent a long time ago, but I just pulled it up again recently. I was trying to think of a way to get more airflow into the intake also, and after consulting with a few of the race shops close to me, we figured out a way to make a 3" wide mandrel bent aluminum cold-air induction system. First of all, you need an aluminum extension pipe w/ the "funnel-shaped" cloth adapter to run from the intake manifold to the mass air flow meter. After that, you can configure another tube (with adapter) to run from the MAF sensor (you still will need the metal adapter bracket) past the left side of the battery down past the engine to the bottom of the car. (right above the ground) The only problem I thought might occur with this setup i s that the hot air surrounding the engine might heat up the air inside the "cold-air intake" pipe, which would sort of defeat the purpose of a cold air induction system, right? :( Maybe the problem could be remedied by wrap! > ping t > he pipe with the same sort of insulating tape used for wrapping headers or something... > just email back if ya feel like it- > antonio alvendia > aponton@concentric.net > celica GT-R > > 09:14 PM 5/8/96 -0700, you wrote: > >Speaking of air-filters, I have a customized setup using a medium-sized > >HKS filter. The person who installed it the first time had to make a > >bracket to fit the square housing on the air-flow sensor. He made it out > >of plastic. Needless to say it was not very strong as it broke off one > >day at the base of the bracket. I only noticed it was broken when the > >engine or exhaust, for that matter became relatively louder. LUckily he > >ordered a bracket from HKS which is what I have on right now. Nice steel > >bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS > >have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was > >thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of > >mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery > >is right smack in front of the airfilter. I'm also not too convinced that > >the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is > >effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 11:38:56 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Heat shield Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com It always bothered me that the trunk (rear) of my MR2 T was close to an oven after some driving. I never used it for heat sensitive things. Here is a simple mod to lower considerably the temperature inside the rear trunk. Remove the rear exhaust tank by removing the two screws from the pipe joint, also the ones holding the middle of the rear tank with the second cat pipe and the two large screws holding the tank at its sides to the chassis. (remember to get a replacement gasket for the pipe connection for the old one cannot be re-used) Above the rear tank is a heat shield held with nuts on screws protruding from the chassis downwards. Remove the nuts and the heat shield. Get a heat shield blanket or asbestos cloth laminated on one side with aluminum foil. This is the best. Fold the blanket in two so as the asbestos to be inside and the alu laminate on the outside, both sides. Lay the fold in parallel to the heat shield just removed and mark it all around, the holes as well. Cut it to exactly 1/4 of an inch smaller (inside the mark) than the heat shield, and also cut the marked holes preferably with a punch. Laying the asbestos blanket on the heat shield it should be slightly smaller and the holes should match the ones on the blanket. Sandwich the asbestos blanket between the chassis and the heat shield and fasten the nuts. Re-install the exhaust and do not forget to use a fresh flange. Now you have a cool trunk. Easy and effective. I have used the asbestos fibber blanket as no other quality heat shield material was available in the required thickness. Do not use asbestos board for it tends to absorb moisture and water and disintegrate. Asbestos woven fabric laminated, used double, works fine and cut slightly smaller will not protrude at the sides of the stock heat shield. If the use of asbestos is prohibited in your area you will have to find equivalent material. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 00:46:34 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wanted: Toy PArts Attention all you peeples... I need the following items to complete several projects... I need 2 (not one but too) 2-TG Theromstat housings waternecks too if possible >=) Also an FX16 GTS Turbo Manifold (yeah..i gonna turbo mines...don't ask) Willing to pay top dollar (name your price) but need them like Yesterday... Thanks... -Allen T Koji Kam 1987 FX-16 GTS Turbo (No manifold but got the turbo in the backseat -grin-) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 01:12:32 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE:Cold Air Induction From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Sat Jun 1 11:45:58 1996 Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 13:42:56 -0700 From: David Rees Subject: Re: Cold Air Induction >In the Toyota Performance Handbook, they show a Supra which uses aluminum >foil to wrap his intake. I guess that would help some, but I think that >header wrap would work a lot better, seeing how well they work for holding >heat inside headers. Not a bad idea! One problem with the TPH, is that when it was written and whom it was written by and what sources contribuited. Basically, it came down to a few select choices... and it came out decently, although it desires a lot. The FAQ that is supposed to be here -bop forehead- should cover this more indepth (now I have time to work on this) Header wrap was a "new invention" back when the THP was published I belive, thus all these new "inexpensive" ways came about to get the same results. You can achieve much better. Also, Header Wrap Tape, is not on my favorites at the moment. I must ask you the basic question, if the tape keeps the heat inside of the headers, where does it flow to ? More then likely, your head..and if thats so...your nice aluminum head goes bye bye... At least...thats what HKS told me ;) >Dave -Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 12:52:41 -0500 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Mk I MR2 parts Sorry to waste the bandwidth, but I'm trying to do the last push to get the parts out of my garage. This is the big one - no reasonable offer resfused. I am very motivated to get rid of the large stuff - I need the room more then I need the money. :) Everything needs to go, I need the space. The bigger the item, the better the deal we can make. Check out my web page for the updated list and prices. I'm trying to keep the list as accurate as possible, but I am mostly concentrating on the large stuff. I'd think you'd be suprised what I'd take for the right quarter panel, wheels/tires, front hood, doors, bumpers, etc. :) Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 08:23:24 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Wanted: Toy Parts From bagdon@rust.net Sun Jun 2 04:16:20 1996 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 10:15:54 -0500 To: Allen T Koji Kam > From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Wanted: Toy PArts >>I need the following items to complete several projects... >> >>I need 2 (not one but too) 2-TG Theromstat housings >>waternecks too if possible >>=) >> >>Also an FX16 GTS Turbo Manifold (yeah..i gonna turbo mines...don't ask) >Tourque steer!!!! Actually, the Torque steer is not as bad as you might think, or was I expected seems very easily predictable and manageable. I had to change my driving style a lot from RWD to FWD, but mainly I just have to be more precise, and I can throw my FX around a circle track without any problems or slide / drift around corners with ease... >>Willing to pay top dollar (name your price) but need them like >>Yesterday... Yeah, need the theromostat housings and manifold soon =) >See if anyone has one lying around for an MR2 or a Corolla GTS - should fit. Yeah, but the FX comes stock with Turbo in europe, and hoping to get one of those, i have a custom one, but it sucks looks poor, rather have an orig to copy off of. >Steve B. Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 12:32:59 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Airbag At 10:20 PM 6/1/96 -0500, you wrote: >>At 10:43 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: >>>I have a problem with my airbag, and haven't been able to figure out the >>>problem. >>>I recently had an aftermarket stereo in stalled, and ever since then my >>>airbag light has been on. Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused >>>this? >>>Also has anyone tried puting a superchip in there MKII turbo? >>> >>>thanks >>>Rich Rainaldo >>>92 MKII turbo >>> >>Whoever installed your stereo must have powered up the ignition with the >>instrument cluster disconnected. This will cause the airbag warning to >>trigger. Once its triggered it will stay on until you have it reset by the >>dealer. Someone on this list may know how to do it, but I don't. > >What type of stereo install would require the instrument cluster to be >removed, on a Mk II? Are you refering to the 'guage set'? > >I've been behind my stereo plenty of times, and have never had to remove >the instrument cluster. > >Steve B. > I certainly am not claiming that you have to remove it, but I've seen this happen before. Probably whoever installed it just took apart more than they had to, or disconnected something that was not necessary. When working on your own car, you knnow it well, and you know exactly what to do. When someone else works on it, well....you know what can happen. But, regardless, this is the most likely option that would cause his airbag light to trigger. And actually, I agree with you Steve. Toyota's are about the easiest cars to install stereos on. Usually its just a few screws to remove the trim piece, then 4 screws and you remove the whole stereo assembly. Toyota! Oh what a feeling! :^) Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 12:33:01 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Placement of Speakers For MK1 MR2 At 03:36 PM 6/2/96 EST, Harry Pitaro wrote: >Hi all, > >I'm looking to upgrade my sound system. So far I have only been to two >outlets for information and both contradict each other. One says that >to get the best sound you can use the factory speaker placements, while >the other says that you should put some speakers in the doors and have >them designed and angled back towards the seats. Which one is correct? > >I was thinking of placing tweeters in the front on dash, midrange in >the back and woofers behind the seats. Is this a reasonable setup? > >I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts. >Thanks in advance. > >Regards, >Harry Pitaro Placing tweeters in the front, midrange in the back and woofers behind the seats will not sound good at all. For proper imaging and sound quality, all speakers producing frequencies above 150 Hz should be at approximately the same location. Within 15 inches is a good guideline. Otherwise, you hear different frequencies coming from different places. Having already done this myself, here's what I can offer. The mk I is terrible for speaker installations. If you really want a significant improvement you will have to find speaker locations other than stock. The stock locations only hold 4" speakers and are the driver side location is extremely shallow. Your second problem is that the doors don't have any good locations to place new speakers. The '87 mr2 came with map pockets along the lower edge of the door which really get in the way of putting speakers there. This makes for a very tough time doing a "clean" installation. What I did, and this is definitely temporary, is I unscrewed the map pockets from the door panels, and installed a 5-1/4" speaker in the lower front corner of each door. If you don't have power windows, you should have no problem fitting this without cutting metal. Just make sure you line it up correctly on the door panel. A 6-1/2" speaker should fit with some trimming of the door metal. If you do have the power package it might not fit, I haven't seen where the lock relays and window motors are located. My stereo is comprised of a Premier tape deck and CD Changer which is under the front hood. I have two soundstream amplifiers and a 2-way audiocontrol electronic crossover under the seats. An 8" bazooka tube is behind each seat (my legs are short, if you're taller try 6-1/2" tubes). I don't like the sound of the bazookas much, but they are all I can fit until I figure something else out. Now, for the speakers, I have a three-way MB Quart seperate setup. This has 2 tweeters, 2 4" midrange, and 2 5-1/4" mid-bass speakers. This package is also available with 6-1/2" mid-bass. I put the 4 inch in the factory locations tho they are a little too shallow and one speaker grill sticks up 1/4". The tweeters are angle mounted at the top front corner of the doors, and the 5-1/4" are at the bottom front like I said. I plan on re-upholstering the bottom of the doors to remove all traces of the original map pockets and make the installation look complete. Well, thats all of it, hope it helps! Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 15:36:09 EST Subject: Placement of Speakers For MK1 MR2 Hi all, I'm looking to upgrade my sound system. So far I have only been to two outlets for information and both contradict each other. One says that to get the best sound you can use the factory speaker placements, while the other says that you should put some speakers in the doors and have them designed and angled back towards the seats. Which one is correct? I was thinking of placing tweeters in the front on dash, midrange in the back and woofers behind the seats. Is this a reasonable setup? I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks in advance. Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 15:36:11 EST Subject: Excessive Fuel Consumption MK1 MR2 Hi all, I used to get about 370km around town from a tank of petrol (about 36litres). Now I'm getting around 310km. I've changed the air filter and changed the oil (SST to remove oil filter is great; makes an awkward and time consuming task a breeze). Still no improvement. Can anyone suggest what else I should look for? Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:12:01 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: (FWD) H##P Is the (ignition) ignitor the same for '91NA and '91T?!?! This one never made it to the list - just a reminder not to include the H E L P word in the first few lines or subject of the message :) Paul. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 16:00:14 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: H**p!!! Is the (ignition) ignitor the same for '91NA and '91T?!?! I have been having a hesitation problem with my '91 MR2 Turbo, with the manifestation being a code 14 in the ECU memory. This code means that the ECU has not recieved proper voltage to pin IGF(?) 8-11 time in a row. The manual states that there is a problem with the coil, igniter, or ECU. The car will randomly hesitate (for no apparent reason) for about 5 seconds, then return back to normal, with a kick. I purchased a coil and igniter combo from a local salvage yard today (Saturday), they had to order it in on Tuesday, and I couldn't pick it up until today. I specifically stated that my car is a Turbo, they ordered the part, and stated that it came out of a 4Runner(?) V-6. When I stated it needed to be coming out of an MR2 Turbo (or Celica AllTrac Turbo), they stated that most of the V-6 Toyota/Lexus cars (including the Camry V-6, ES-250 V-6, etc.) should be compatible with the MR2 Turbo (V-6 needs as much ingition oomph as a Turbo I-4?). I brought the parts home - the car still running, but always that hesitiation problem in the back of my mind. I decided to replace only one part at a time, starting with the igniter - I didn't want to replace both, have the problem go away, then have to spend more time figuring out which part is was. So I removed my current (questionable) ignitor, but when I compared them to each other - the part numbers are different! I called the Local Toyota dealership, asked them for the Turbo ignitor part number, and the part number they stated matched what came *out* of my car. Then I asked if the part number of the other ignitor was functionally equivalent, and he *instantly* said 'no, that's the part number for the NA'. So the old igniter (questionable as it was) goes back in the car. Everything is put back together - and now the car won't run at all!!! Check everything, go through the manual, and step one says check the coil 'high-tension' wire against the car body, to see if I get spark. No spark. The ignitor appears to be dead. After cycling the ECU, code 14 comes back now every time. But this actually makes me a little bit happy - now instead of an *intermittant* problem, I have a *continuous* problem - the car won't even start, much less run long enough to hesistate. That makes it a *lot* more easy to debug! :) As a test, I *did* install the incorrect part-numbered ignitor. The car *does* start and idle with the NA(?) ingitor. I just don't want to drive it yet. So here are my problems: * Are the two igniters (NA(?) and Turbo) functionally equivalent? * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to my car * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to the ignitor * If I have to have a Turbo ignitor, should I return it and buy *new* The salvage yard gave me a 30day replacement warranty - so I see no reason why I can't return it for the part that I asked for. I am more worried about what the ignitor would do to my car, then what my car will do to the ignitor (since I *specically* told them it was for a Turbo). Help!!! I don't feel comfortable driving the car until they can get the correct part in, and if they ask for the old part back *before* they order the new part, then I'm really up a creek. If I can't drive the car (the *other* ignitor is not equivalent), or if they want the old part back first, I'll have to rent a car until they can get the part in. I can get *just* the ignitor for $100, or a new one for $225+ or so - anyone know what the life expectacny of these things are? I'd rather pay double and get a new one, then buy a used one that just dies after a few months. Thanks a bunch to *anyone* who can answer *any* of these many questions. I'm land-locked until I settle this. :( Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 20:14:11 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: H**p!!! Is the (ignition) ignitor the same for '91NA and '91T?!?! I have been having a hesitation problem with my '91 MR2 Turbo, with the manifestation being a code 14 in the ECU memory. This code means that the ECU has not recieved proper voltage to pin IGF(?) 8-11 time in a row. The manual states that there is a problem with the coil, igniter, or ECU. The car will randomly hesitate (for no apparent reason) for about 5 seconds, then return back to normal, with a kick. I purchased a coil and igniter combo from a local salvage yard today (Saturday), they had to order it in on Tuesday, and I couldn't pick it up until today. I specifically stated that my car is a Turbo, they ordered the part, and stated that it came out of a 4Runner(?) V-6. When I stated it needed to be coming out of an MR2 Turbo (or Celica AllTrac Turbo), they stated that most of the V-6 Toyota/Lexus cars (including the Camry V-6, ES-250 V-6, etc.) should be compatible with the MR2 Turbo (V-6 needs as much ingition oomph as a Turbo I-4?). I brought the parts home - the car still running, but always that hesitiation problem in the back of my mind. I decided to replace only one part at a time, starting with the igniter - I didn't want to replace both, have the problem go away, then have to spend more time figuring out which part is was. So I removed my current (questionable) ignitor, but when I compared them to each other - the part numbers are different! I called the Local Toyota dealership, asked them for the Turbo ignitor part number, and the part number they stated matched what came *out* of my car. Then I asked if the part number of the other ignitor was functionally equivalent, and he *instantly* said 'no, that's the part number for the NA'. So the old igniter (questionable as it was) goes back in the car. Everything is put back together - and now the car won't run at all!!! Check everything, go through the manual, and step one says check the coil 'high-tension' wire against the car body, to see if I get spark. No spark. The ignitor appears to be dead. After cycling the ECU, code 14 comes back now every time. But this actually makes me a little bit happy - now instead of an *intermittant* problem, I have a *continuous* problem - the car won't even start, much less run long enough to hesistate. That makes it a *lot* more easy to debug! :) As a test, I *did* install the incorrect part-numbered ignitor. The car *does* start and idle with the NA(?) ingitor. I just don't want to drive it yet. So here are my problems: * Are the two igniters (NA(?) and Turbo) functionally equivalent? * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to my car * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to the ignitor * If I have to have a Turbo ignitor, should I return it and buy *new* The salvage yard gave me a 30day replacement warranty - so I see no reason why I can't return it for the part that I asked for. I am more worried about what the ignitor would do to my car, then what my car will do to the ignitor (since I *specically* told them it was for a Turbo). Help!!! I don't feel comfortable driving the car until they can get the correct part in, and if they ask for the old part back *before* they order the new part, then I'm really up a creek. If I can't drive the car (the *other* ignitor is not equivalent), or if they want the old part back first, I'll have to rent a car until they can get the part in. I can get *just* the ignitor for $100, or a new one for $225+ or so - anyone know what the life expectacny of these things are? I'd rather pay double and get a new one, then buy a used one that just dies after a few months. Thanks a bunch to *anyone* who can answer *any* of these many questions. I'm land-locked until I settle this. :( Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 03 Jun 96 12:02:19 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: 4 Sale! Hello all, I'm about to buy an electronic boost controller and already bought PIAA1000 Fog Lamps. Thusly I have the following for sale. 1) Greddy TVVC $150 (Less than 6 months old) 2) Toyota Factory Fog Lamps (MK2) $150 - a STEAL All interested should email me directly at ---> MisterTwo@aol.com Later, Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: bagdon , Subject: RE: Wanted: Toy Parts Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 11:23:00 PDT Hi there freaks! :) I havent heard that there are any factory turboed FX16 (FWD) corollas in Europe? In fact I didn't know there were any producet at all (at least with 4A-GE based). I though know/have_heard that some AE-86 (RWD) Corollas with turboed 4A-GE were produces by factory, but how many? Any ideas what hp's that factory turbo FX was producing and was it with 4A-GE based engine? I have heard of some other turbo engines though. The stock 4AG ('88 ->) with turbo can take 190hp (or even more) with only headgasget mods - twin stock gasgets and a 1mm copperplate between them. This is to lower the compression. This 190hp can be achieved without intercooler... heh... I did :) And it lasts at over 100tkm (well this was in 170hp tune :). I have my old selfmade turbo system (for FX16) availabel here in Finland if someone is interested (maybe expensive to ship in States though...?) - icluding everything to get it working: turbo, housing, tubing, copper plate between headgagsets, fuel enrichement... My new setup is now in its place and working - just need that time to install that aftermarket fuel computer. New setup is with 4A-GEZ pistons and steel headgasget. Bigger Holset turbo and modified MersedesBenz truck intercooler etc. -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: RE: Wanted: Toy Parts Date: 2. 06. 1996 8:23 From bagdon@rust.net Sun Jun 2 04:16:20 1996 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 10:15:54 -0500 To: Allen T Koji Kam > From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Wanted: Toy PArts >>I need the following items to complete several projects... >> >>I need 2 (not one but too) 2-TG Theromstat housings >>waternecks too if possible >>=) >> >>Also an FX16 GTS Turbo Manifold (yeah..i gonna turbo mines...don't ask) >Tourque steer!!!! Actually, the Torque steer is not as bad as you might think, or was I expected seems very easily predictable and manageable. I had to change my driving style a lot from RWD to FWD, but mainly I just have to be more precise, and I can throw my FX around a circle track without any problems or slide / drift around corners with ease... >>Willing to pay top dollar (name your price) but need them like >>Yesterday... Yeah, need the theromostat housings and manifold soon =) >See if anyone has one lying around for an MR2 or a Corolla GTS - should fit. Yeah, but the FX comes stock with Turbo in europe, and hoping to get one of those, i have a custom one, but it sucks looks poor, rather have an orig to copy off of. >Steve B. Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 21:08:32 +0200 To: garye@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Eng) From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Heat shield for a cool trunk Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >> sv1bt@compulink.gr writes: >> >> It always bothered me that the trunk (rear) of my MR2 T was close to an >> oven after some driving. I never used it for heat sensitive things. >> >Me too. Thanks for the excellent ideas. Two questions come to mind: >1. How high a temperature must this insulating material withstand? The temperature is not very high. My ETG reads 400 to 600 of exhaust gas temp right after the first cat. As I mentioned woven asbestos cloth laminated on one side with alum foil, folded with the asbestos cloth to the inside works fantastic. If you cannot get this material then the advertised heat shield blankets would do fine. >2. What thickness material did you use? The screws that hold the stock heat shield metal there have a length of about 1 cm after the heat shield and the nut are installed, so theoretically you can use a thickness of up to 1 cm and there is available clearance to the exhaust tank plenty. The two fold asbestos laminate I used has a total thickness of 2 to 3 mm. With this material you can run multiple layers if the two-fold is not enough. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 21:08:37 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Input air temperature Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Talking to the chief engineer of the Toyota European Championship Team the other day I pointed out that their air filters were standard box type (large though) and not cone or mushroom type that we see advertised by the various performance up-grades. He explained to me that the box enclosing the filter is a good heat shield to prevent the hot air around the engine getting in. The box has a wide pipe running out of it to the front grill of those racers ensuring fresh cool air input. He then took a look at my layout, with the large cone K&N going straight into the turbo, asked me to show him the box I had removed and advised me to re-install the box and the tube that goes down to the side vent. Fortunately I had not thrown away an adapter that HKS had sent me which made possible to connect the round pipe of the turbo to the square output of the filter box (without the air flow meter stuff ). He told me that whatever gain I had from the diameter difference I was loosing much more from the heated air I was piping in. So I did just that. I even used an old paper filter that was left in the stock filter box when I had it removed and I can tell you that the engine runs much better now. I will do some real testing as soon as I get a clean filter in. He advised that I could do much better if I found a larger air filter box and installed it. He recommended a size of twice the stock ( which we measured and fits ok ). Also he recommended a larger diameter tube from the input of the box to the side vent. I think this will be my next project. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 03 Jun 96 16:42:14 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Geoff Cc: Owner , Subject: Nose Job Done..... Geoff, As I told ya, this past week I changed my nose and fog lamps. I only have one word to describe the process. HELL!! Don't try this at home unless you have a lot of time. All told, it took me about 12 hours SOLID time. And I still haven't finished aligning the lights yet. I'll put together a how to, but it's gonna take me about a week. It'll probably be about 10-15 pages. I had to take the headlight assemblys apart and remove them to give you an idea. Anyways, all said and done, the people I got to paint the nose dropped the ball. It doesn't match. :-( Not only that, but they ordered a rear bumper support, not a front one. I had to bang out the old one as best I could. It's all finished, and the body shop guy is gonna blend the nose for me. Like I said, I'll make up a how to for the web sight and upload some pictures. Later, Larry S. 91' MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 14:22:26 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Fred Miranda Subject: Re: Input air temperature Kostas Thats very good info. It's good to hear it comming from a race engineer. What I did on my 323GTX(sorry) is partition off a corner of the engine bay to house the K&N and then ducted outside air to it. >He explained to me that the box enclosing the filter is a good heat shield >to prevent the hot air around the engine getting in. The box has a wide pipe >running out of it to the front grill of those racers ensuring fresh cool air >input. He then took a look at my layout, with the large cone K&N going >straight into the turbo, asked me to show him the box I had removed and >advised me to re-install the box and the tube that goes down to the side >vent. Fortunately I had not thrown away an adapter that HKS had sent me >which made possible to connect the round pipe of the turbo to the square >output of the filter box (without the air flow meter stuff ). Fred Miranda '86 Toyota Turbo pu- 185kmiles orig bottom end, new head and T03 turbo '88 Mazda 323GTX- TEC2,VNT turbo, Eclipse injectors etc '65 Lotus Elan- Autronic fuel injection, toyota fuel pump and injectors! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "kostas g. d. chryssos" Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 3 Jun 96 16:28:07 Subject: Input air temperature How much difference in performance can we expect with a cold-air intake? Is it across the rev-range, upper, lower? Does intake temperature affect EFI set-ups more than carbed engines? Sounds like a good idea for a project -- I have dual side-draft Mikunis w/ K&N filters and air-horns. I'm thinking of building a box enclosing both filters and having some tube that sucks fresh air from outside the engine compartment. Would this improve anything, or would the tubing and the box just restrict the air-flow that any benefit of having a cold-air intake will just go down the drain? I'm willing to bet that the K&N filters I have flow very well --I can actually hear the carbs 'gargle'...=) Anyway, comments anyone? John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: mr2-digest @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet (bcc: John Limcangco) From: sv1bt @ compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos) @ internet Date: 06/03/96 09:08 PM Subject: Input air temperature ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ He told me that whatever gain I had from the diameter difference I was loosing much more from the heated air I was piping in. He advised that I could do much better if I found a larger air filter box and installed it. He recommended a size of twice the stock ( which we measured and fits ok ). Also he recommended a larger diameter tube from the input of the box to the side vent. I think this will be my next project. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:32:29 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Re: Input air temperature To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos" Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Kind of interesting how just yesterday I was sorting out what steps to take on the intake of my '91 T with a friend of mine (I am his service crew chief for his pro rally team - brand new ultra low budget team this year) that most recently built a pro-rally mid-engined mustang. Everything he suggested to add to my ideas matches what Kostas indicated in his message. Put a box around the cone filter, cause it sure does get hot under there (better off leaving the stock box with K&N filter otherwise if I plan to just suck in hot air), and increase the diameter of the tube from the side intake feeding right into the cone. I will likely be creating a funnel shaped end at the side intake to help concentrate the incoming air a bit more and will be putting in a screen of some sort to help keep some of the water and bigger debris from being force fed into the filter. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged On Mon, 3 Jun 1996, Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: ... stuff deleted ... > He explained to me that the box enclosing the filter is a good heat shield > to prevent the hot air around the engine getting in. The box has a wide pipe > running out of it to the front grill of those racers ensuring fresh cool air > input. He then took a look at my layout, with the large cone K&N going > straight into the turbo, asked me to show him the box I had removed and > advised me to re-install the box and the tube that goes down to the side > vent. Fortunately I had not thrown away an adapter that HKS had sent me > which made possible to connect the round pipe of the turbo to the square > output of the filter box (without the air flow meter stuff ). > ... bunch more stuff deleted to save space ... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 17:28:20 -0700 To: "john.limcangco" , From: David Rees Subject: Re: Input air temperature I would expect an increase in performance across the entire rev-range. Whenever you can get more air (cold air has a higher density than warm air) into the engine you're going to get more power, as long as you get more fuel in there too. Sport Compact Car in their March '96 magazine did a test on a cold air intake by AEM. It replaced the factory airbox (quite restrictive) in a stock '95 Civic EX (I know, not a Toyota, but the theory is the same regardless). The AEM unit is an aluminum pipe routed from the throttle body, to outside of the engine compartment where it can draw cold air from outside of the car. On the end of the pipe is a large K&N conical airfilter, attached to an air horn which is attached to the pipe. They recorded horsepower gains across the board, from 2000rpm to 7000rpm, except at 3000rpm where it was the same as stock (at 53hp). Max gains were at 5000rpm with 12 more ponies than stock! Max hp is now around 106-107 hp at 7000 rpm instead of 101 at 7000. Compare this to other intakes (hot air drawn from inside engine compartment) which usually make from zero (bad designs) to eight or nine (good designs) ponies over stock. Most make around 5 or so. (I found this latter information on various WWW sites, email me if you want to take a look) So it seems that colder air is good! I think the trick to to make sure the intake path isn't too small or twisty, and draws air from outside the engine compartment. Dave At 04:28 PM 6/3/96, John wrote: >How much difference in performance can we expect with a cold-air intake? Is it >across the rev-range, upper, lower? Does intake temperature affect EFI set-ups >more than carbed engines? > >Sounds like a good idea for a project -- I have dual side-draft Mikunis w/ K&N >filters and air-horns. I'm thinking of building a box enclosing both filters >and having some tube that sucks fresh air from outside the engine >compartment. Would this improve anything, or would the tubing and the box just >restrict the air-flow that any benefit of having a cold-air intake will just go >down the drain? I'm willing to bet that the K&N filters I have flow very well >--I can actually hear the carbs 'gargle'...=) > >Anyway, comments anyone? > >John Limcangco >Manila, Philippines >79 Cressida 18RG xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:38:32 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: 20 Valve 4AGE head For you folks who have seen them - I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve - an extra lobe on the cam? Thanks, Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net '89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 (ITA) '83 RX-7 GSL '85 RX-7 GS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 15:23:33 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 8.38 pm on3/6/96 Bruce Crawford wrote: >For you folks who have seen them - > >I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you >folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? > >What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve >- an extra lobe on the cam? Yes, us folks in NZ can most definately get them - I've been driving one for the past 2 years and 26,000 miles in my Lotus 7 Replica. I was running a 1983 4AGE 16V on injection prior to the 20V. The exhaust cam looked much the same(although I didn't take any measurements), however it directly drives the distributor off the 'free' end. The inlet cam has the VVT pulley on the front, and has an extra lobe for the 3rd valve. Due to the angle of the extra valve in relation to the other 2 it's cam lobe is slightly retarded (I think), but I believe all 3 valves open simultaneously. I dunno about playing around with them - I guess you can, however I am lead to believe one was played with extensively out here but for minimal gains. (Doesn't mean to say it can't be done) I run the engine stock, on injection (four throttle bodies), with the stock computer. I am trying to get some bits for someone at the moment, and will be in Auckland in the next month, hope to get a better idea on parts availability then. I have been quoted $1500 NZ for an engine($1 NZ = $0.62 US), and paid $2500 NZ 2 years ago for motor complete from air flow meter to factory extractors, clutch to fan belt, alternator, starter motor, loom, computer, coil, igniter and wiring diagram. The motor came out in 1991, and was still in production last year. I believe it is about to be stretched to 1800cc. It puts out 120kW as a 1600.The block is very different to the 1983 engine, and I suspect it is different to the 100kW, but I have yet to confirm. Please contact me if you want to know more, and I'll help if I can. My car has to be reliable (only car) so I use a stock engine. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint (Lotus 7 Replica) 20 Valve 4AGE 'Built to Drive, Not Look At!' xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 20:54:03 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Placement of Speakers For MK1 MR2 At 08:30 PM 6/3/96 EST, you wrote: >** Reply to note from Jason McDonald 06/02/96 12:33pm -0700 > >Thanks for the advice Jason. It looks like I will have to do some rework of the >door skins to get some good sound. What sort of power output are your amps >putting out? The amp I'm considering has 40W RMS per channel. Would you know if >this is enough to drive some JBL 200W speakers (Tweeter in upper front of door >and 6.5" in lower part of door)? I'm after clarity not volume. > >Regards, >Harry Pitaro My current setup uses a soundstream reference 200 to power 2 bazookas in mono bridged. That works out to 200 watts / 2. My three way components get a total of 25W each. These power ratings are very conservative, not your typical advertised wattages that are blown way out of reality. I think you're 40 Watts RMS is just about perfect, plenty of power. Also, over powering your speakers can be a good thing, as long as you don't turn it up louder than sanity dictates. Extra power gives you extra headroom many times improving your sound quality at those louder volumes. I recommend really going for the good names in buying amplifiers. I personally like Soundstream and Precision Power (PPI). Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 14:27:56 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Input air temperature Hiya all, A quick word on inlet temps affecting power output. A quick rule-of-thumb is that for 1 deg C drop in temp, you'll get a 1/3% increase in power. The practical example I can think of is (Ok, it's an aeroplane ...) a Piper Senneca 2 Turbo. The Continental TSIO-470's (I think) are rated at sea level at 200 hp. (Under the conditions of 1013 Mb's - or 29.92 in - and 15 deg C) At 15,000 ft they are rated at 220 hp - the manifold pressure staying the same as sea level, but the outside air temp dropping to -15 deg C) So, for a 30 deg C drop in air temp, the engine picked up 10% in power, ie, 1 deg C = 1/3% increase. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 14:37:23 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head >For you folks who have seen them - > >I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you >folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? > >What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve >- an extra lobe on the cam? > >Thanks, > >Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net >'89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 (ITA) '83 RX-7 GSL '85 RX-7 GS > Hiya Bruce, We have a fairly big import business from Japan here in Aus, so almost any engine is available! :) To give some examples of 20V 4AGE's though, the best price I've come across is Aus$1400 (US$1120). That was for an engine that had a damaged sump, but otherwise perfect. (An earlier 4AGE sump was modified to fit - the blocks are slightly different) The same group that imported that engine told me that they are bringing in a supercharged version of the 20V!! - Can't wait to check it out. A more typical price would be around the Aus$2000-2500 mark. (US$1600-2000) The most expensive one I've seen is advertised for Aus$3500 (US$2800)- I think they'll be keeping that one in the shop for a while! The inlet cam is exactly the same as the 16V, except it has an extra lobe to run the third inlet valve. The cam bearings are in a different place because of that. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:35:53 +1200 (NZST) To: Adam Grove , From: Peter Whelan Subject: Re: my header experience... At 04:56 PM 31/05/96 -0400, Adam Grove wrote: > > >But there are other significant negatives: > 1) It's very much noiser than stock. Everything else is stock, even >the exhaust (although I'm changing this very soon) and I didn't expect >the header to make such a large difference. I was wrong. >I also thought that I didn't really care how loud things got. I was >wrong about that too. > 2) It's very hot. The head has a shiny finish (chrome?) which >should help reduce radiated heat. But not enough. >It looks like I am boiling the clutch fluid, because I can't disengage the >clutch after running for 1/2 an hour or more---the pedal just goes to >the floor---although it's ok after letting it cool down. Does anyone >know if I've diagnosed this correctly? >If so I'm going to have to make some sort of heat shield. (Ideas anyone?). > > -Adam yep, the best heat shield material I have come across is the shielding material that Toyota use to stop the distributor melting on the 4age engine. This material can be reshaped and cut. It consists of two very thin sheets of galvanised steel sandwiching some foil and asbestos type material. You can cut this with tin snips or a guillitine, but you will need to fold over the edges afterwards to stop the white asbestous type material escaping. Best of luck Liam > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:35:59 +1200 (NZST) To: Bruce Crawford , From: Peter Whelan Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 08:38 PM 3/06/96 -0400, Bruce Crawford wrote: >For you folks who have seen them - > >I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you >folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? > >What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve >- an extra lobe on the cam? > >Thanks, > >Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net >'89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 (ITA) '83 RX-7 GSL '85 RX-7 GS Bruce I don't know much about these heads but Phil Brasdshaw who is on the list runs a 5 valve in his Lotus 7 replica. When I drove this car it had heaps of mid end grunt but shows no significant gains up top. My similar 4age powered car with stock engine gave away very little performance in the mid range and may have had more up top. Phil may have a different view of this. A couple of guys have played with them here. I know one engine was put on a dyno and they were unable to get anywhere near the toyota stated performance. They were never imported new to Nerw Zealand but many the engine importers will bring them in to order and there are probably a few lurking around. See if you can get more info from Phil though. He is very helpful and knowlegeable on these engines. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:36:03 +1200 (NZST) To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Peter Whelan Subject: 4age 12:1 pistons & cam timing Can anyone help me with pricing and the best place to buy 12:1 compression pistons for the later model red top engine with the 20mm gudgeon pin! Can any one provide me with the standard cam timing for the small port 4age engine? Can anyone help me with pricing and the best place to buy a 7-8mm high performance gasket? Can anyone help me with pricing and the best place to buy TRD main and big end bearings? I regularly import equipment from the States and have a credit card. The 1990 small port 4age engine apparently runs 9.5:1 compression as standard while the 91-92 small port engine runs 10.3:1 compression. Unfortunatley I don't know what year my engine is. My engine is in pieces. Does anyone know how I can tell which one I have? many thanks for any help. Liam Venter. But I can't have run out of money - I still have some cheques left! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 16:17:48 +1000 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: jhayden@gil.com.au (John Hayden) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head Bill and group, >The most expensive one I've seen is advertised for Aus$3500 (US$2800)- I >think they'll be keeping that one in the shop for a while! >The inlet cam is exactly the same as the 16V, except it has an extra lobe to >run the third inlet valve. The cam bearings are in a different place because >of that. Does the twenty valve motor have a few more ribs on the block like a 4AGZE motor?? I know of one rally car in Australia (formerly in Brisbane but now in Sydney which is a Jap import Sprinter) and I'm told that the 20 valve motor has these extra ribs. John xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 19:54:58 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 5:35 pm 4/6/96 Peter Wheelan wrote: > >Bruce I don't know much about these heads but Phil Bradshaw who is on the >list runs a 5 valve in his Lotus 7 replica. When I drove this car it had >heaps of mid end grunt but shows no significant gains up top. My similar >4age powered car with stock engine gave away very little performance in the >mid range and may have had more up top. Phil may have a different view of >this. A couple of guys have played with them here. I know one engine was put >on a dyno and they were unable to get anywhere near the toyota stated >performance. Damn right I have a different view! Is that Liam hiding under an alias!? In all seriousness, on the day in question the 'private road' had a lot of traffic and we couldn't really wind the cars out, or repeat runs. At the time Liam was running a stock blue and black top on webers and 4 into 1 extractors, which are supposed to give you about 20 horse extra, ie 140 vs my 165. Admittedly Liam had low compression on one pot, so would have been down even lower in grunt. We only got up to about 100 mph due to traffic, however my car starts to hit the aerodynamic wall at about 90mph. Both cars were two-up, although I had full trim, a spare, clamshell front guards, a full windscreen and tools. The 7 has a cd of .74 (yes, I weep) and the stryker must be down to .35 or less. I also weigh about 600kg in road trim, Liam is some 60 kg lighter. Basically I am about 275 horse/ton in road trim, as best quesstimate, (assuming the 20V quoted figures are correct) so the stryker should have me on both aerodynamics and maybe power to weight. I run out to 115 mph when the speed limiter cuts in, but I reckon it should do a genuine 120 with it disabled - this seems reasonable from studying figures for caterhams, and from the amount it is still picking up. The 20 V makes max power at 7800, but I rarely go above 7000-7300 (There seems little point on the road). Redline is 8000. I would fully believe Liam's claim of 130 mph, and wouldn't be surprised if 135 was possible. I run a 16 V cast iron manifold (extractors are on next year's hit list) and my air flow meter/air filter also sits behind and above the exhaust, so I'm losing out on mass flow, but it is good enuff for my driving. At the time I wasn't running the stock Toyota inlet trumpets, but have subsequently shortened them to fit (I had to channel the airbox to clear a spaceframe tube, and the trumpets curve out and down). The Stryker certainly went well and was nice to drive, before all the mods, so it will be interesting now. Liam is no fool in using a stryker - the seven is terribly unaerodynamic - why waste horses? - but I don't really race it, and it is fast enough for the road! This is not a case of sour grapes, but the gauntlet is thrown down for a straight line challenge when I go to Auckland in the next few weeks! Stay tuned. Phil Bradshaw 20V Leitch Super Sprint - 'Real Cars Drive in Snow' + battered ego Palmerston North New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 16:09:26 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Ait Filter box Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I checked the K&N filter catalogue and the largest flat filter I found there was 10" x 10" which is larger in area to the 12" x 6.25" of the stock. What I was not able to locate is the car that wears this filter so I could manage to get a filter box. I may try to build one and I am also considering a can over the cone filter I had before. If anybody can assist in locating a box of 10 x 10 inches please advise. Thks Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 21:29:07 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Air filter box Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I did some investigation with good results. It turned out that the car that uses the 10" x 10" flat filter is the Thunderbird V6 3.8L / V6 3.8L SC, the Mercury V6 3.8L, the Cougar 1990 V6 3.8 SC, the 1991 Cougar XR7, the 1993 Cougar V6 3.8L and the V8 5.0L. I wonder who will have a look in the junk yards of the US for an air filter box for me......all in the shake of science and progress..........????? (Those cars do not grow in this part of the world.....a mater of climate ........... Thks, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 12:55:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: 20 Valve 4AGE head To: Toyota Mods hi there > For you folks who have seen them - > > I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you > folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? the whole engine ... sure just the head? not so sure .. have to find someone willing to split the two > What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve > - an extra lobe on the cam? yeppers .. extra lobe on the cam .... it also has a VVT system (variable valve timing). There's a solinoide on the side of the block that controls this .... the other NZers on this list will know more about them than me. : ) Later Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '87 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 22:58:22 +0200 To: charlesg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Charles Grosjean) From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Input air temperature Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >In mlist.mr2-interest you write: > >>He advised that I could do much better if I found a larger air filter box >>and installed it. He recommended a size of twice the stock ( which we >>measured and fits ok ). Also he recommended a larger diameter tube from the >>input of the box to the side vent. > >A little while back, I started fabricating a fiberglass intake pipe (about >4" in diameter) to use with the stock air box so I could quit re-oiling my >HKS mushroom. I got a little worried about the heat resistance of the >fiberglass though and put the project off. Based on your post, I think I may >go back as time permits and fabricate a new pipe, perhaps out of aluminum >ducting material. The other problem, is the small hole on the side of the >factory airbox. I think I may cut it out and fabricate an aluminum plate >with a larger intake so I can use a piece of silicone hose to attach to the >new intake pipe. > >Looking at the stock filter, the surface area doesn't seem much smaller than >that of the mushroom or medium size K&N's, so it might be worthwhile to stay >with the small airbox and use the K&N or other foam filters. > >Charles Hi there Charles, I think the fiberglass will stand the temperature but alu I for sure better. The stock filter size seems to be of good size. I will get a K&N that fits there and see if there is any difference against the stock maybe tomorrow. The stock box has two restrictions. One the square top output hole which is NOT easy to enlarge (I used an HKS adapter there sent to me sometime ago and the whole thing can be enlarged (ported) but not much. The other is the input hole and pipe. This is no problem. One can use alu corrugated pipe of a larger diameter and cut the hole to fit the pipe. Then you can insert the pipe, flare it from the inside and use silicon rubber to hold it. A bit further down one should fit a strap with the mounting screw to hold the pipe to the body of the car same to the stock mounting. Additionally the air pipe leaving the air box and going into the turbo could use some heat shielding. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:17:12 +1200 (NZST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 07:54 PM 4/06/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >At 5:35 pm 4/6/96 Peter Wheelan wrote: >> >>Bruce I don't know much about these heads but Phil Bradshaw who is on the >>list runs a 5 valve in his Lotus 7 replica. When I drove this car it had >>heaps of mid end grunt but shows no significant gains up top. My similar >>4age powered car with stock engine gave away very little performance in the >>mid range and may have had more up top. Phil may have a different view of >>this. A couple of guys have played with them here. I know one engine was put >>on a dyno and they were unable to get anywhere near the toyota stated >>performance. > >Damn right I have a different view! > >Is that Liam hiding under an alias!? Sorry Phil, I sent my message with out editing the senders name. Peter was the last person in the office to use the email before me. My apologies, Liam. However I was hopeful that you would give your perspective on what was a very limited test. In all seriousness, on the day in >question the 'private road' had a lot of traffic and we couldn't really wind >the cars out, or repeat runs. At the time Liam was running a stock blue and >black top on webers and 4 into 1 extractors, which are supposed to give you >about 20 horse extra, ie 140 vs my 165. Admittedly Liam had low compression >on one pot, so would have been down even lower in grunt. We only got up to >about 100 mph due to traffic, however my car starts to hit the aerodynamic >wall at about 90mph. The low compression turned out to be a result of me measuring compression with out having the throttle valves fully open. Compression later checked out fine, within 15lbs of each other. I had my car dynoed by Otahuhu Tuning services a couple of weeks later and It produced 66hp at the back wheels. However I think it bounced to much on their rollers. We realistically believe the horse power to have been about 120-125hp at the crank. I think it might be less now the engine is getting fairly tired. > >Both cars were two-up, although I had full trim, a spare, clamshell front >guards, a full windscreen and tools. The 7 has a cd of .74 (yes, I weep) and >the stryker must be down to .35 or less. I also weigh about 600kg in road >trim, Liam is some 60 kg lighter. Basically I am about 275 horse/ton in road >trim, as best quesstimate, (assuming the 20V quoted figures are correct) so >the stryker should have me on both aerodynamics and maybe power to weight. I >run out to 115 mph when the speed limiter cuts in, but I reckon it should do >a genuine 120 with it disabled - this seems reasonable from studying figures >for caterhams, and from the amount it is still picking up. The 20 V makes >max power at 7800, but I rarely go above 7000-7300 (There seems little point >on the road). Redline is 8000. I would fully believe Liam's claim of 130 >mph, and wouldn't be surprised if 135 was possible. Yes you are correct I achieved 135Mph in the Targa with 4:1 diff. (I think we may have had a favourable wind or gradient - I was too excited to notice). On the day when we drove each others cars I was using a 3:9 diff. My car weighed about 540kg.(It weighs a fraction more now). With the passenger on the day it weighed about 690kg. I begin to hit the wall at a higher speed than you. Please note the correct spelling is Striker. With the standard cam and 32mm chokes i don't think there is any gain over standard headers. Barry Kirk Barnards Fraser with a standard engine with electronic ignition and standard extractors runs neck and neck with me down the straights, despite my superior aerodynamics. > >I run a 16 V cast iron manifold (extractors are on next year's hit list) and >my air flow meter/air filter also sits behind and above the exhaust, so I'm >losing out on mass flow, but it is good enuff for my driving. At the time I >wasn't running the stock Toyota inlet trumpets, but have subsequently >shortened them to fit (I had to channel the airbox to clear a spaceframe >tube, and the trumpets curve out and down). The Stryker certainly went well >and was nice to drive, before all the mods, so it will be interesting now. >Liam is no fool in using a stryker - the seven is terribly unaerodynamic - >why waste horses? - but I don't really race it, and it is fast enough for >the road! >This is not a case of sour grapes, but the gauntlet is thrown down for a >straight line challenge when I go to Auckland in the next few weeks! Excellent but I am afraid it is no contest. My car is is completely naked at the moment. Took about 8 hours last weekend. Even the Aluminium sheeting has been removed. Come to think of it it will may be back on the road by the time your back in Auckland. Kind regards Liam Venter If you thought the handling was good before, you won't beleive the improvements in handling until you drive it! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 14:37:28 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Return of undelivered mail Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. Since it has become very annoying could something be done about this??? Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: gettlerj@hanscom.af.mil Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 9:41:59 EDT To: Subject: Me/Mine/Mods Hi folks!! My name is Jim Gettler. I am in the military (USAF... HOO-RAH!!), and currently stationed at Hanscom AFB in Massachusetts. I own a 1993 MR2 that is pearl white. It is the non-turbo version and it is an automatic. I am not very good at working with cars but the reason that I joined this list was to get some ideas for more performance out of my car. I have the 2.2L inline 4, and she has some get-up-and-go now as it is. Another words, I want to get this car 'race ready', if you know what I mean. Any suggestions, ideas, improvements, and other ways to get her 'race ready' would be appreciated. My E-mail for direct mailing is as follows: gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil I'll be hoping to hear from some of you!! Jim Gettler 1993 White Automatic MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Todd.A.Campbell@mro01.usace.army.mil Date: 05 Jun 1996 14:39:10 Z To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Return requested) (Receipt notification requested) Name : Todd Campbell Location : Omaha,Ne Model : 1987 MR2 Engine : 4AGE ( ?) Mods : nore Email : Todd.A.Campbell@usace.army.mil My MR2 has about 106K miles and I am starting to see the first signs of needed an engine re-build ( smoke out of the pipe ) I think I am going to need new rings etc... Is there a place I can get a "piston kit" or "big bore kit" or something like that ? Anybody have any idea what this is going to cost me if I use my local mechanic ? I have exoerience in rebuilding motorcycle engines ( Kawasaki's ZX's) how tough would this job be if I did it myself ? Thanks !!! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 22:23:12 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Air Filter Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com As promised I did some testing today with the stock air box and the stock paper filter plus the input pipe to the air box without the buffer box which sits on the fire wall and is connected to the air input pipe going into the air filter box. I capped this outlet. The pipe leading air from the side vent into the filter box is of rather small diameter. This easily could be made larger. The overall impression was very good. I found the engine very responsive and noticed a fast play on the fuel/air ratio meter resulting into a perfect reading (14.7:1) of larger periods of time versus a lazier response with the K&N cone filter. With the K&N cone filter the meter was stuck to the rich reading more time in average. It seems that the stock air system produces a more balanced air input and probably runs more economical on the gas. At boost, I have noticed no difference on the low scale readings, and a 0.05 difference on the high scale. The stock system will go up to 1.05 bar where the K&N cone filter will go up to 1.1 bar. Frankly speaking I have not noticed any difference but I want to add that the stock unit produces more uniform power. I am preparing a tube of about 1 cm larger diameter than the large (base) diameter of the cone filter with a cap at the base (where the rubber joint is) and a centering flange with large openings (98%) on the other end, where this tube will also protrude about 2...3 cm thus coming very close to the side vent. It is the long 9" cone type which comes almost to the vent if connected directly to the rubber bent tube leading to the turbo. This alu tube will prohibit the engine air getting into the cone filter and allow air only from the far end to get in. I will also rivet two brackets for mounting properly. If the project is successful I will post a drawing. Some additional notes: I have at hand both the stock air filter and a K&N exact replacement. I think someone is playing tricks with us . The stock filter is a kind of paper, special, but the folds are TWICE the size of the K&N wire mesh folds. This is obvious from the thickness of the filters. This means that the K&N filter has half the area of active surface than the stock paper one. So if the K&N is even twice as good it ends up to a straight match with the stock one. (The stock costs one fifth the price of the K&N). With the above info I question myself and you all, is it worth to get the K&N??????????? I will do some comparison driving this weekend to find out first hand who fools whom. We call this learning the hard way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Input air temperature To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 01:36:08 +0300 (EET DST) Funny, everybody seems to be measuring these now... keep up the good work! I attached today a temperature sensor to my K&N cone, located behind the left headlights but stil 70% inside the engine bay (We cut a hole for it). This is the exhaust side... where plastic melts when placed too close to the turbo. Anyway, to my joy I saw that the intake temperature was the same as the outside temperature (at least within 1C), if I was moving over 40km/h. After prolonged idling with hot engine while stopped, the air starts to heat up. After two minutes, the intake air was 11C hotter than ambient. So I probably won't bother with a real cold air box, an electric fan to replace the tired viscous one would be of much more help (to the engine cooling too). We've also measured the intake air temperature with an Alfa GTV, twin sidedrafts. The tempereatures stay 14C higher than ambient even at 80km/h!!! After idling for a minute or so, the air may be heated over 30C above ambient, and typical city driving is usually between 16-20C above ambient. Needless to say, somebody wants a cold air box ;) I also tried to test the effectiviness of Thermo-tec insulating tape. I need to find another sensor to give you any accurate numbers, but it helps A LOT!!! That is, about 40-60C. I wrapped the intake piping that goes over the exhaust manifold with it, as well as the oil lines. Temperatures in this area are around 100C. The intake pipes were too hot to touch after driving more than 10 minutes, now they are no hotter than my body temperature (then again, caught the flu...). -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 09:28:04 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Return of undelivered mail On Wed, 5 Jun 1996, Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: > Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an > undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a > notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. I usually allow one week for any addresses that bounce in case it is a site problem. After that I manually delete them...and then try and contact them for a further period of one week. If a site is off the air for two weeks things are usually not looking good :) Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 20:30:06 -0500 To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ), From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Return of undelivered mail >Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an >undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a >notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. > >Since it has become very annoying could something be done about this??? >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. >ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS >Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr Just one? Heck, I must get 20. :) Isn't there any cleanup on this? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Thu, 06 Jun 96 07:25:56 CST To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re[2]: Return of undelivered mail Sorry! The administrator changed my email address without telling me. I have unsubscribed using my old address and re subscribed with the new. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Return of undelivered mail Author: Paul Pyyvaara at INTERNET-HUB Date: 6/5/96 6:46 PM On Wed, 5 Jun 1996, Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: > Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an > undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a > notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. I usually allow one week for any addresses that bounce in case it is a site problem. After that I manually delete them...and then try and contact them for a further period of one week. If a site is off the air for two weeks things are usually not looking good :) Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 15:46:31 +0200 To: Lance Heinrich From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Air Filter Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Kostas, > >How are you connecting the cone filter? I am assuming that you are using >the stock meter and it sounds like you have the stock rubber piece that >goes to the turbo still there. Did you make up your own adapter (or had >it custom fabricated for your application) or do you have one of the >aftermarket "packages"? If the latter, did it just come with an adapter >or a different kind of meter? OK I have installed sometime ago the HKS VPC system so I have no stock meter on the air filter box. Before that I had purchased the HKS mush room filter kit. They then provided me with an adapter which has a round and a square end, so one can connect the stock meter to the mushroom filter. I turned this adapter around and connected the rectangular end to the rectangular output hole of the AFB (air filter box) without the meter. To the other round end fits a rubber pipe which with a thin alu transition on the other end fits to the 90 deg rubber bend going into the turbo. There is a limitation to the rectangular hole on the AFB and I plan to open a larger hole there and mount some other adapter. The AFB has another opening at its side connecting to a pipe bringing air from the vent in. This is also small but can be easily enlarged and the pipe replaced with a corrugated alu one. > >Sounds like you are going through the exact same procedures that I will >be going through (only you're a step ahead of me :-) And it sounds like >you are better equipped to do some more scientific research into this >than I do (ie. you can look at the fuel mixture, etc. which I can't). > >Area of filtering material is greater on the stock filter, but not area >through which air is actually taken in, that's still just l X w (I don't >have the dimensions handy)... just a thought. I don't agree with you there. The surface of the stock paper filter is larger than the K&N area of their wire filter. Since both are restricting elements to the flow of air, ALL of the surface accounts for the restriction. The larger the area the less the restriction. If your theory was correct then the filter area would not be larger than the diameter of the feeding pipes. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 12:45:02 -0400 From: Stephen Waddell To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Turbo-Enhancements What would be the best way to modify a 95 Supra Turbo without going to overboard in price? I am thinking of modifying my car, but don't know what the best route would be. Can you e-mail me back with some suggestions. Thanks xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 14:52:53 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Re: Air Filter At 03:46 PM 6/6/96 +0200, Kostas wrote: >I don't agree with you there. The surface of the stock paper filter is >larger than the K&N area of their wire filter. Since both are restricting >elements to the flow of air, ALL of the surface accounts for the >restriction. The larger the area the less the restriction. If your theory >was correct then the filter area would not be larger than the diameter of >the feeding pipes. >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. I think I'll have to disagree with you Kostas! Even though the stock paper filter has more pleats when compared to the oiled-cloth K&N unit, I believe that the paper will restrict air more, because there is more filtering material in the same amount of space. I guess you can look at it this way. Take a pipe and cover it with one layer of sock or pantyhose, some sort of filtering material and measure the flow. Now take that same filtering material, and fold it up and then stick it in the same tube. Measure the flow. I think you'll agree with me that the second filter will flow less air than the first, although filtering more junk. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 06:24:39 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Woody Warmoth Subject: 85 Toyota Celica parts I have some 85 Celica GTS Coupe parts for sale. .. recaro style bucket seats w/drivers lumbar pump. $60. pair. .. P/S complete with rack/pinion. $50. .. A/C complete with heaterbox and dash controls. $80. .. Front rotors with calipers. $30. pair. .. factory AM/FM/Cassette with dolby equalizer $50. .. lower body moldings. $10. each .. rear panel with taillights and bumper. $50. .. doors with p/w p/l (rh glass broken) $80. pair. .. jack kit w/tools $10. plus many other small parts. Since I am not a regular member of this list, please contact me directly. Woody Warmoth (email: woodyw@worldnet.att.net) Oregon City, Oregon -- phone (503)631-2776 after 6 PM Pacific Time xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 17:20:58 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Quaife differentials Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I am posting this info as I have noticed some interest in Quaife differentials. The Company is: R.T.Quaife Engineering Limited The address is: Vestry Road, Otford Sevenoaks, Kent TN14 5EL, England Tel: (0)1732 741144 Fax: (0) 1732 741555 Ask for Andy. I was told that there is a very limited no. of differentials still available. The price is around 422 Br.P. Interesting I was told they have two models for the MR2. A large one (for the E153 transaxle) and a smaller one which could be for the NA model. Andy could not confirm this when we talked. For those interested the above differentials are highly recommended. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 10:47:52 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Re: Air Filter Dave wrote: > >I think I'll have to disagree with you Kostas! Even though the stock paper >filter has more pleats when compared to the oiled-cloth K&N unit, I believe >that the paper will restrict air more, because there is more filtering >material in the same amount of space. I guess you can look at it this way. >Take a pipe and cover it with one layer of sock or pantyhose, some sort of >filtering material and measure the flow. Now take that same filtering >material, and fold it up and then stick it in the same tube. Measure the >flow. I think you'll agree with me that the second filter will flow less >air than the first, although filtering more junk. What Dave says is true for the example he gives, but is not the same as the pleated elements of the paper filters. Think of the pores of the filter as little pipes. We'll all agree that two pipes alongside each other (in parallel) will flow twice as much as a single pipe for the same pressure drop, but if we connect the two pipes end-to-end (in series) they'll flow less than the shorter length of one pipe. Kostas states correctly that the pleated paper filter has more pores in parallel because of its larger surface area, and can thus compensate for its smaller pore size in comparison to the K&N, which has smaller surface area. In Dave's example of folding the filter material in half or more, the pores are in series. Similarly, if you pleated a filter to the extreme degree that the flow resistance for air escaping from between the pleats was comparable to the resistance to flowing through the filter medium, the effects of increased surface area would be negated. The extreme case would be folding the filter up into such a tight accordion that it was effectively a single thick piece of paper, in which case Dave's analysis would apply and we'd have a very clean but very restrictive filter. If the pleat-to-pleat distance is comparable to the pleat depth, I'd be pretty sure we're nowhere near this regime, though it might be interesting for someone with more experience in flow calculations to give us some idea of what the pleating limit would be for typical paper, oiled foam, or oiled gauze filters. -Mike Leary 87 Toyota Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 16:38:18 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 2-TG Parts Needed Desperately... Awwww... I sorta in desperate need of at least 1 2TG thermostat housing. Willing to pay for shipping etc etc and all that other junk... even if its used thats fine as long as it has a chance of werking decently =) Many thanks... -Allen T Koji Kam koji@i-one.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:57:04 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to the EFI system? Thanks in advance. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint (aka Lotus 7) 20 Valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 15:14:59 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: SPEED SENSOR/GEARBOX RATIOS Here's another one for you good people. My kit car has a magnetic pickup bonded to the driveshaft that pulses the EFI computer, connected to the speed sensor input. I had this installed when I first built the car, cos I was getting an error light coming up on the EFI system. The speed sensor is normally part of the speedo, but I don't run any of the Toyota instruments. The system I have works fine (doesn't give any error signals)(once I managed to stop the magnet flying off the driveshaft!)but cuts the motor out at about 115 mph. This equates to about 6800 in fifth gear, so the drive shaft is doing about 7900 rpm(love that 4.44:1 diff)(assuming .86:1 fifth gear). The engine definately cuts out on speed 'cos it will happily run at 7500 through the gears, and is supposed to rev limit at 8000, although I don't take it that high. It seems weird that the Japanese cars, which are limited to 180 kph via the speedo, and mine with a sensor on the driveshaft, cut out at the same speed. Surely the speedo drive from the gearbox is geared dowm? Any ideas how to unleash the final 5 mph or so I believe is in the car, whilst still running the EFI diagnotsic circuit? PS - Anyone know the ratios in a 1983 AE 86 16 Valve Corolla t-50 alloy case gearbox? Thanks in advance Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint (just like a Lotus 7, only cheaper) 20 valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 23:52:27 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: Phil Bradshaw Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Maybe to turn off cruise control when you hit the brakes? just a guess. Phil Bradshaw wrote: > > Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the > connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model > Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes > it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to > the EFI system? > > Thanks in advance. > > Phil Bradshaw > Palmerston North > New Zealand > Leitch Supersprint (aka Lotus 7) 20 Valve 4AGE -- Home Page: http://www.webbuild.com/~toy4two/ Work: http://www.imonics.com/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 11:00:02 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Stock versus K&N air filter Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Today I made the comparison test and my fears were confirmed. Given the stock air filter box without any modifications except the removal of the air flow/temp meter unit, in fourth gear full throttle the stock paper filter would read slightly over one bar (about the width of the indicator pointer over the mark say 1.03 Bar) where with the K&N filter under same conditions and at the same length of the street the meter registered under one bar, exactly the width of the indicator pointer, say 0.97 Bar. IMHO the stock paper filter is better in performance, cheaper, cleaner for the engine and less fussy (no wash, oil etc, just throw away.) Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: SPEED SENSOR/GEARBOX RATIOS To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 12:42:13 +0300 (EET DST) > PS - Anyone know the ratios in a 1983 AE 86 16 Valve Corolla t-50 alloy case > gearbox? Not 100% sure, but these ratios were correct for 1982 and 1986 T50's: reverse -3.484 I 3.587 II 2.022 III 1.384 IV 1 V 0.861 -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 09:05:36 -0500 To: Mark Sink From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Wouldn't that go to the cruise computer? Or from the brake pedal, to the EFI computer to the cruise computer? Steve B. >Maybe to turn off cruise control when you hit the brakes? > >just a guess. > >Phil Bradshaw wrote: >> >> Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the >> connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model >> Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes >> it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to >> the EFI system? >> >> Thanks in advance. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 16:24:42 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Maybe it cuts out the injectors during breaking? For emmisions? Just a really wild guess. Jason McDonald At 02:57 PM 6/8/96 +1200, you wrote: >Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the >connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model >Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes >it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to >the EFI system? > >Thanks in advance. > >Phil Bradshaw >Palmerston North >New Zealand >Leitch Supersprint (aka Lotus 7) 20 Valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 18:21:07 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Re: Stock versus K&N air filter Since I'm not familiar with Turbo'd Cars, There is one thing to consider. Where do they locate the pressure sensor? Before or after the air filter? ( I know that measuring after makes more sense... but gotta make sure! ) > >Dave > >At 11:00 AM 6/8/96 +0200, Kostas wrote: >>Today I made the comparison test and my fears were confirmed. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 12:06:42 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Air Filters...more Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Looking into the K&N catalogue, page 3 Air Filter Facts, at the left bottom side of this page I see grafs about the air flow of various filters. It seems that they selected a foam, a used K&N (after 42000 miles but they don't mention if it has been recently cleaned and oiled or not), a paper and a new K&N filter all I understand of same filter area size and tested the air flow in CFM. The results as published in this K&N catalogue: FOAM (Amsoil LT-31; Unifilter 04-0031 ) 375 Used K&N (Used 42000 miles K&N E-1500 ) 460 PAPER (AC A348C;Fram CA326;Hastings AC-145;K-Mart KA-12;Motorcraft FA-71R ) 515 New K&N (K&N E-1500) 875 What do we see there ?????????Paper to new K&N ratio is 1.6 to 1.0 In other words if a paper filter is 1.6 times the area of a K&N filter they have, in accordance to the their measurements, the same air flow. Given the MR2 stock paper air filter is twice the area of the replacement K&N one then the K&N filter's airflow is 20 percent LESS than the stock paper one. " The more I dig the more I learn" Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 14:09:51 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: delivery errors Could the following address be "taken care" so as not to receive undelivered mail returns. hank@alive.toho.co.jp Thanks, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 08:06:00 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Fred Miranda Subject: Re: Air Filters...more Kostas It's beginning to look like you will read into any data you get whatever it takes to further your K&N bashing. Your boost test wasn't apples vs apples. There were at least 2 variables there, the filters and the air temp. I suspect the higher air temp more than made up for the better flow the K&N provided. If you have the means why not do a test between stock and replacement K&N but instead of measuring boost, measure the vacuum created after the filter. The wastgate will make up for a slight vacuum by spinning the wheels faster, thus maintaining boost at the cost of increased backpressure. Fred >The results as published in this K&N catalogue: > >FOAM (Amsoil LT-31; Unifilter 04-0031 ) >375 >Used K&N (Used 42000 miles K&N E-1500 ) >460 >PAPER (AC A348C;Fram CA326;Hastings AC-145;K-Mart KA-12;Motorcraft FA-71R ) >515 >New K&N (K&N E-1500) >875 > >What do we see there ?????????Paper to new K&N ratio is 1.6 to 1.0 > >In other words if a paper filter is 1.6 times the area of a K&N filter they >have, in accordance to the their measurements, the same air flow. > >Given the MR2 stock paper air filter is twice the area of the replacement >K&N one then the K&N filter's airflow is 20 percent LESS than the stock >paper one. > >" The more I dig the more I learn" > >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. >ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS >Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Introduction / Is you rear wheel supposed to fall off? To: yadde@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Yosef Adde) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 02:36:42 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > This is my first time writing in, so I'd like to introduce myself. I have an '88 > Supra Turbo with an HKS turbo timer and sound system consisting of Alpine and > Phoenix Gold. I bought the car about 4 months ago, and had a new turbo installed. > > Anyhow, I've been reading mail here the last few days, but unfortunately I finally > have a problem with my car. I was driving on the highway, when I passed someone, and > sombody else, alot slower, suddenly is in my face. I fishtailed until my rear right > wheel colapesed on itself and i went into a cement way and spun around. Luckily > everyone was fine, and I was able to manuever the car with 3 wheels so I didn't hit > anyone, but was the wheel supposed to just come off like that? Mind you that there's > a lot of force put onto a wheel in a fishtail going aprox. 120 km/h, but come on... > anyhow, it's an insurance matter now. > > By the way, do you poeple think the car will drive the way it did before? Any > comments on what I should make sure is done? Hell no that kind of thing shouldn't happen! There must have been something really wrong with the suspension before you spun. Maybe the previous owner had crashed it and made a half-ass repair. Many of us, well at least some of us, throw our cars sideways almost daily, in purpose, and our alignments stay spot on. They should check all suspension components and then the alignment. If they do a good job, there is no reason why it wouldn't drive like it did, maybe even better as there had to be something wrong to begin with. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 14:06:11 +1200 (NZST) To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: Cam timing and TRD head mods Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:25:45 +1000 X-Sender: bilzilla@mail.zeta.org.au From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: 4age 12:1 pistons & cam timing >Can any one provide me with the standard cam timing for the small port 4age >engine? > Yup, it's - inlet opens 8 BTDC, closes 44 ABDC, exhaust opens 47 BBDC, closes 5 ATDC. (That's according to the info I have) A friend of mine who seems to know what he is doing and has both an early model blue top engine and a late model red top engine that he uses in his Lotus 7 replica. He has measured the standard cam timing on the early engine and thinks the above is for this engine. The later model standard cams out of his red top engine have approximately 10 degrees more duration. However he is not sure what the timing should be as he did not mesure the timing before modifying his cams. So we still do not know what this timing should be. If anyone knows please let me know. Caution: It may be that CAMs in the engines we import from wrecked Japanese cars are different from engines in Australia or Japan. It may also be that the Cam timing and duration changed during the life of the red top engines. It would be interesting to know if putting the later model cams into an earlier TVIS head is a good mod for someone on a very tight budget. Bill I have also now got the factory head modification diagrams for the group A cars. These are currently with my heads at the cylinder head shop. I will send you copies when I get these back. If anyone else wants these please let me know. regards Liam. Bill, Thanks for the tip on using the beer for measuring the compression ratio! This has to rate as the most technically enlightened approach I have come across. I don't know why it is not in mentioned in more racing manuals! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 14:06:20 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: SPEED SENSOR/GEARBOX RATIOS At 03:14 PM 8/06/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >Here's another one for you good people. My kit car has a magnetic pickup >bonded to the driveshaft that pulses the EFI computer, connected to the >speed sensor input. I had this installed when I first built the car, cos I >was getting an error light coming up on the EFI system. The speed sensor is >normally part of the speedo, but I don't run any of the Toyota instruments. >The system I have works fine (doesn't give any error signals)(once I managed >to stop the magnet flying off the driveshaft!)but cuts the motor out at >about 115 mph. This equates to about 6800 in fifth gear, so the drive shaft >is doing about 7900 rpm(love that 4.44:1 diff)(assuming .86:1 fifth gear). >The engine definately cuts out on speed 'cos it will happily run at 7500 >through the gears, and is supposed to rev limit at 8000, although I don't >take it that high. It seems weird that the Japanese cars, which are limited >to 180 kph via the speedo, and mine with a sensor on the driveshaft, cut out >at the same speed. Surely the speedo drive from the gearbox is geared dowm? >Any ideas how to unleash the final 5 mph or so I believe is in the car, >whilst still running the EFI diagnotsic circuit? > >PS - Anyone know the ratios in a 1983 AE 86 16 Valve Corolla t-50 alloy case >gearbox? Yep, I think these are in my toyota Performance handbook. I will send them tomorrow. > >Thanks in advance > >Phil Bradshaw >Palmerston North >New Zealand >Leitch Supersprint (just like a Lotus 7, only cheaper) 20 valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Engine woes Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 19:02:12 -0400 From: Kevin Scaldeferri Well, the engine in my 88 Celica has finally gone, and I'm left with a variety of options, none of them cheap. One of the options is, of course, to put a new engine in the car, and here's where I'm looking for some advice from the list. It'll cost somewhere around $3000 to replace the engine, a significant fraction of the book value of the car. Has anyone else gone this route? In retrospect, was it a good choice or not? The rest of the car is in great condition, so I'd imagine it would keep going for quite sometime. All the other options involve getting rid of the car and buying someting else, be it a new car, used car, or motorcycle. So the other question here is, how much would the car be worth with the engine like it is. I'm sure that someone with the time a knowledge to rebuild it could do that for much less than the cost of a new engine. But I'm not sure what's a fair price. Any advice here? (In fact, does anyone want to buy an 88 Celica GTS, in great shape except for a blown engine?) Aargh. Thanks Kevin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: EGT measurements etc To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list), Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 02:08:37 +0300 (EET DST) Hiya all, a few notes from the battle against inadequate fuel pumps and crappy regulators... I installed the adjustable regulator with the original one in series, and I did get better pressure compensation, though only 80%. I was not able to get more than 4 bar peak pressure during WOT driving. Not enough, but a very slight improvement -> adequate for ~215hp. Of course, the oxygen sensor had to quit when I was trying to adjust in the mixture :( So I dialed the mixture pretty rich, just to be safe. This resulted in lots of banging in the exhaust during engine braking at low rpms... I rather like that, actually ;) Today I removed the oxygen sensor to fix the connection (the wire was cut from the sensor), and decided to temporarily install my exhaust gas temperature meter in its place. Results: granpa-mode around town (50km/h, no boost while accelerating): 700F idle: cools down from 700F to 400F. Cruising at 100km/h about 1000F WOT, 0-210km/h, rises to 1200F @ 160km/h, 1300F @ 180km/h, 1350F @ 195km/h, not really rising after that. This is about 20cm after turbine outlet. Of course, some 2 km after I had done that ~210km/h run (limit: 80), I saw this cop car coming from the other direction ;) Cornering at these speeds really reminds me that I need stiffer springs (body rolllll), otherwise it's stable. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 17:10:52 -0700 From: Yosef Adde To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Introduction / Is you rear wheel supposed to fall off? This is my first time writing in, so I'd like to introduce myself. I have an '88 Supra Turbo with an HKS turbo timer and sound system consisting of Alpine and Phoenix Gold. I bought the car about 4 months ago, and had a new turbo installed. Anyhow, I've been reading mail here the last few days, but unfortunately I finally have a problem with my car. I was driving on the highway, when I passed someone, and sombody else, alot slower, suddenly is in my face. I fishtailed until my rear right wheel colapesed on itself and i went into a cement way and spun around. Luckily everyone was fine, and I was able to manuever the car with 3 wheels so I didn't hit anyone, but was the wheel supposed to just come off like that? Mind you that there's a lot of force put onto a wheel in a fishtail going aprox. 120 km/h, but come on... anyhow, it's an insurance matter now. By the way, do you poeple think the car will drive the way it did before? Any comments on what I should make sure is done? Thanks, Yosef Adde xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 19:55:02 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Fred Miranda Subject: Re: EGT measurements etc Matti What kind of EGT gauge are you using? I have a VDO on my 323GTX. At cruise on fwy it runs 11-1200 and might hit 1400 on a long pull under boost (15-17psi@ 12/1afr). This is BEFORE the turbo. Seems kinda low doesn't it. A friend with a Supra (2nd gen + turbo added) has the same gauge and sees similar temps. Any comments? Fred >granpa-mode around town (50km/h, no boost while accelerating): 700F >idle: cools down from 700F to 400F. >Cruising at 100km/h about 1000F >WOT, 0-210km/h, rises to 1200F @ 160km/h, 1300F @ 180km/h, 1350F @ 195km/h, >not really rising after that. > >This is about 20cm after turbine outlet. > >Of course, some 2 km after I had done that ~210km/h run (limit: 80), I saw >this cop car coming from the other direction ;) >Cornering at these speeds really reminds me that I need stiffer >springs (body rolllll), otherwise it's stable. > >-- >Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 >k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... >A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 23:13:05 -0700 From: Gary & Mary Jones To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Gary Jones 2321 Sundrop Ct. Fort Worth, Texas 76108 1983 Celica/Supra Production date 1-1-83 Engine: 5M-GE Howdy I am a father of three, 2 daughters, ages 2 and 4 and a son, 20, Lance Corporal Micah Jones USMC. I am a master electrican employed by the city of FT. Worth for 20 years. In March I purchased a rust colored Celica/Supra with analog gages, automatic transmission, and 108,000 miles. It is almost all original (no modifications) YET. I have already resealed cam towers, replaced the timing belt, (due to the oil leaks on the timing belt), replaced all the radiator and heater hoses, thermastat, radiator cap, and had the radiator rodded out. I am in the process of having the factory radio and equalizer repaired. The next two priorites are changing the muffler (looks like something off a Pinto) and the Monroe rear shocks (they rattle! all the time) If you would like to know more ask, I have several comments! Our other car is a gold 1991 Previa LE with 126,000 miles, with new Toyota rear shocks after 6,000 miles on a set of Monroe's (several comments)! Let me say "HOWDY" and "THANK YOU ALL." Gary Jones email jones@flash.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: gary & mary jones Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 11 Jun 96 8:48:26 Subject: Electrical puzzle Welcome to the list Gary! Looks like you have a good project car in your hands.... enjoy. Since you're an electrician by trade, I thought I'd throw a question (puzzle) your way hoping you could provide an answer. One of the mods that I'm planning to do is to get the signal lights in my car to flash 'alternately'. (eg. The light on the bumper is on, while the light on the fender is off -- then it switches, bumper off - fender on). I've seen it on some late model GMs -- similar to how the headlights on US cop cars alternate when their sirens are blaring..... How do you get a circuit to flip-flop like that? Also another thing I noticed on the GMs is that both lights (fender and bumper) are on when the park lights are on.... BTW, the bulbs on the turn signals on my car are the single-filament type. Its been puzzling me for some time now. I'd appreciate any ideas. (BTW, anybody on the list -- feel free to jump in...) Thanks, John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: jones @ flash.net (Gary & Mary Jones) @ internet Date: 06/10/96 11:13 PM Subject: me/mine/mods ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Gary Jones 2321 Sundrop Ct. Fort Worth, Texas 76108 1983 Celica/Supra Production date 1-1-83 Engine: 5M-GE Howdy I am a father of three, 2 daughters, ages 2 and 4 and a son, 20, Lance Corporal Micah Jones USMC. I am a master electrican employed by the city of FT. Worth for 20 years. In March I purchased a rust colored Celica/Supra with analog gages, automatic transmission, and 108,000 miles. It is almost all original (no modifications) YET. Let me say "HOWDY" and "THANK YOU ALL." Gary Jones email jones@flash.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 11 Jun 96 11:38:17 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT To the list, For what its worth the early AE-86 and AE-82's with 4AG's all have idle up circuits that come on when you out your foot on the brakes, turn on the fan or the headlights. This also works for 15 seconds on starting. Its a great feature when you have a light flywheel, turn on the fan and the idle goes from 1000 to 1400! I have also read the K&N debate and feel that we are missing something. In a recent article here a Swift GTI was tested with a large number of filters including 4 K@N's. Almost all filters outflowed the standard but the Dyno showed less than 1KW over standard. Both airbox and pod type were tested. The advatage of the K@N is that they are small for th e capacity and can be placed in spots the paper ones cannot. On the Aus AE-86 the mid size K@N's can be placed behind the front right headlight were the cold air flows, or can actually be put between the radiator support panel and the front grill. The colder air DOES make a difference,you can feel it, the outright flow does not,all seem to have more than enough. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 13:38:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" > Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the > connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model > Toyotas? On my 85 MR2, there is a valve that allows additional air into the intake to increase the idle speed. The valve is opened when the headlights, fan, or brake lights are turned on. I presume that this is to compensate for the additional load from the alternator which will reduce the engine idle speed. There is a second (larger) valve that opens when the AC compressor is activated (high load). This type of compensation is open loop (no feedback). On the newer engines, I would guess that they are using an "idle speed control" in a closed loop mode, so that the idle speed is maintained under widely varying alternator and AC compressor loads. So maybe the input to the EFI computer is additional info for this compensation function. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:52:14 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 20 valve info G'day All, I have retrieved my 20 valve manual etc from my friend up north, so here's some info you may find usesful. First, I doubt you can put the 20 vavle head on a 16 valve block because the manual clearly shows the pistons are machined away to clear the 5 valves. (ok, so you can always machine your pistons). Performance wise, the 1995 figures (which I think are unchanged from earlier ones) are 165 ps @ 7800 rpm max power, and 16.5 kg-m@ 5600rpm. 1587cc, 81x77mm bore/stroke. This compares to the 4AFE with 115 ps @ 6000 rpm and 15 kg-m @ 4800. The 20 valve rev counter reads to 9000rpm and turns red at 8000. Speedo only reads to 180 kph. AE 111 Trueno gearbox ratios: 1: 3.166 2: 1.904 3: 1.392 4: 1.031 5: 0.815 R: 3.250 Diff: 4.312 The engine manual pictures are not that revealing, please e-mail me if you want me to try to scan them. Hope this is of use. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 13:59:01 -0700 From: "Ed A. Craft" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Upgrades Well hello everyone, I purchased a 91 MR2 late last year and have been considering doing some modifications (mainly engine and suspension). I recently put 215/40/16 BFGoodrich all the way around and now I'm thinking about getting the factory chip for it. I was told that it increases the hp by about 15-20 which I think would be a bonus. I'm assuming I'm not the first to think of this so for those of you that have made that investment, how did