Toyota-Mods Postings June 1996

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Jun 1996 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 13:42:56 -0700 To: CIPHeR Celica GT-R , From: David Rees Subject: Re: Cold Air Induction In the Toyota Performance Handbook, they show a Supra which uses aluminum foil to wrap his intake. I guess that would help some, but I think that header wrap would work a lot better, seeing how well they work for holding heat inside headers. Not a bad idea! Dave At 10:46 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: The only problem I thought might occur with this setup is that the hot air surrounding the engine might heat up the air inside the "cold-air intake" pipe, which would sort of defeat the purpose of a cold air induction system, right? :( Maybe the problem could be remedied by wrap! > ping t >he pipe with the same sort of insulating tape used for wrapping headers or something... >just email back if ya feel like it- >antonio alvendia >aponton@concentric.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 16:26:30 -0500 (CDT) From: "Mr. Amano" To: Toyota Mods List Subject: SC MR2 Q's Hi People! I have a friend interested in purchasing a MR2, and he has some questions: 1. When did they start selling SC MR2 in Canada? 2. What are the differences between a SC and a NA of the same generation? 3. ARe they reliable? (since it's based on a 4AG, I assume it is) Thank you, Scott xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 17:05:56 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Airbag At 10:43 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: >I have a problem with my airbag, and haven't been able to figure out the >problem. >I recently had an aftermarket stereo in stalled, and ever since then my >airbag light has been on. Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused >this? >Also has anyone tried puting a superchip in there MKII turbo? > >thanks >Rich Rainaldo >92 MKII turbo > Whoever installed your stereo must have powered up the ignition with the instrument cluster disconnected. This will cause the airbag warning to trigger. Once its triggered it will stay on until you have it reset by the dealer. Someone on this list may know how to do it, but I don't. Jason McDonald 87 MR2 N/A xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 20:53:19 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: my header experience... In a message dated 96-05-31 17:13:28 EDT, you write: >Last week I put a TRD header on my 88 s/c Mk I MR2. I purchased it >about a month or so ago. >But there are other significant negatives: > 1) It's very much noiser than stock. Everything else is stock, even >the exhaust (although I'm changing this very soon) and I didn't expect >the header to make such a large difference. I was wrong. >I also thought that I didn't really care how loud things got. I was >wrong about that too. I find this surprising. I really didn't notice that much of a noise increase over my previous setup. The only real annoying difference was a "swisha swisha" noise audible from the driver seat that wasn't there before. > 2) It's very hot. The head has a shiny finish (chrome?) which >should help reduce radiated heat. But not enough. >It looks like I am boiling the clutch fluid, because I can't disengage the >clutch after running for 1/2 an hour or more---the pedal just goes to >the floor---although it's ok after letting it cool down. Does anyone >know if I've diagnosed this correctly? I've had my TRD header installed since spring, and I've spent over 80 minutes of track time in 20 minute intervals running the crap out of the car, and I've never had the clutch even HINT of fading. Are you sure you have good fluid in there? Have you flushed it recently... at all? The header really isn't that close to the clutch lines or slave cylinder. It'd really surprise me if the heat from the header was causing this problem. >If so I'm going to have to make some sort of heat shield. (Ideas anyone?). > Not a bad idea, but nowhere to mount them on the header. There may be some unused threaded holes on the block that you could bolt to, or maybe on the fire-wall. >The bottom line is that, although I definitely *feel* as though I have >a bit more power (and perhaps that's what counts most), on balance >I regret doing this. Sorry to hear that. You can always take it out... or try Jet Hot! :-) Dave A. daucott@aol.com 1986 MR2 (silver) 1986 MR2 (green) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 21:26:37 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Automatic? NO MORE! Hey folks! It's been a while since I mentioned this project, but I just put the finishing touches on the transmission/soul change from auto to 5-speed in my Green '86 (we call it the Loog, for Luger cuz there's so much green). Suffice it to say, it's possible, and actually not as bad as you might think (thanks Steve B. for all the parts!!). I put in my "custom" 1200lb clutch and a regular flywheel, a K&N filter I had from earlier endeavors, and the car is otherwise stock. It'd be really hard for someone to tell it was once an auto! Just a few wires and... oh yeah... I had to leave in the auto trans neutral start switch -- something really weird with the wiring that doesn't match the factory Toyota manual diagrams. I may just bypass it, but for now it works fine doubling as an antitheft device (I can put the switch in "D" and the starter won't fire) and as a clutch switch bypass, so I don't have to push the clutch in to start the engine. Hey, what was someone saying about remote starting devices? :-) I'm thinking of posting a somewhat detailed message on what you need to look out for and what you need to get if you choose to do this. Please let me know if you're interested in hearing about this -- if there's enough interest I'll post the details. It was really quite interesting how Toyota put all the wiring in for both the auto AND manual trans in this car, thus making otherwise difficult things like wiring the backup light switch easy! Just pull off the tear tape holding the unused connector to the wiring harness and plug it in! Neat. I backed the car out of the driveway today (a major step... the auto trans had no reverse!) and took it on it's maiden voyage. The 1200lb clutch feels the same as my silver car's 1300lb HKS, and about the same as stock. Everything works smoothly and I had no surprises. I replaced the front brake pads and had the rotors turned, and now the brake shudder is long gone (yeah!). I'm going to have to scrap that cheapo aftermarket muffler with the two McDonalds straws for oulets though... I am VERY HAPPY with the results of this mod, and due to the newness of the engine in the Loog (rebuilt about 15K miles ago) the thing runs like new. I'm seriously considering selling my silver car and making this one my autocrosser. I guess that's enough for now! Oh, wait, one more thing: FOR SALE: Automatic transmission, linkages, computer, half shafts, etc. -- everything you need to make your 5-speed into an auto, except the knife (for jabbing into the soul of the MR2). :-) Dave A. daucott@aol.com, daucott@e-mail.com 1986 silver MR2, CSP SCCA modified 1986 green MR2, Stock w/K&N and 1200lb clutch plate. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 22:20:13 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Airbag >At 10:43 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: >>I have a problem with my airbag, and haven't been able to figure out the >>problem. >>I recently had an aftermarket stereo in stalled, and ever since then my >>airbag light has been on. Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused >>this? >>Also has anyone tried puting a superchip in there MKII turbo? >> >>thanks >>Rich Rainaldo >>92 MKII turbo >> >Whoever installed your stereo must have powered up the ignition with the >instrument cluster disconnected. This will cause the airbag warning to >trigger. Once its triggered it will stay on until you have it reset by the >dealer. Someone on this list may know how to do it, but I don't. What type of stereo install would require the instrument cluster to be removed, on a Mk II? Are you refering to the 'guage set'? I've been behind my stereo plenty of times, and have never had to remove the instrument cluster. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Air Flow Sensor To: aponton@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CIPHeR Celica GT-R) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 02:36:16 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Even if it doesn't work, it would sure look nice in the engine compartment. :) Hey antonio, what springs and shocks setup did you say you had on your car again? I was gonna get the H&R springs w/Koni's but dammit, I had to settle for Eibach's because H&R no longer makes springs for my car. They claim Eibach lower at least 1 inch whatever that means. I was tempted to cancel the order to get INtrax instead. Intrax would sure get rid of that wheel well space. Tell me all the specs on yours. Richard '86 Celica GTS leongc@sfu.ca > I know this email was sent a long time ago, but I just pulled it up again recently. I was trying to think of a way to get more airflow into the intake also, and after consulting with a few of the race shops close to me, we figured out a way to make a 3" wide mandrel bent aluminum cold-air induction system. First of all, you need an aluminum extension pipe w/ the "funnel-shaped" cloth adapter to run from the intake manifold to the mass air flow meter. After that, you can configure another tube (with adapter) to run from the MAF sensor (you still will need the metal adapter bracket) past the left side of the battery down past the engine to the bottom of the car. (right above the ground) The only problem I thought might occur with this setup i s that the hot air surrounding the engine might heat up the air inside the "cold-air intake" pipe, which would sort of defeat the purpose of a cold air induction system, right? :( Maybe the problem could be remedied by wrap! > ping t > he pipe with the same sort of insulating tape used for wrapping headers or something... > just email back if ya feel like it- > antonio alvendia > aponton@concentric.net > celica GT-R > > 09:14 PM 5/8/96 -0700, you wrote: > >Speaking of air-filters, I have a customized setup using a medium-sized > >HKS filter. The person who installed it the first time had to make a > >bracket to fit the square housing on the air-flow sensor. He made it out > >of plastic. Needless to say it was not very strong as it broke off one > >day at the base of the bracket. I only noticed it was broken when the > >engine or exhaust, for that matter became relatively louder. LUckily he > >ordered a bracket from HKS which is what I have on right now. Nice steel > >bracket. By the way, does anybody out there who has a '86-87 Celica GTS > >have any idea on how to get more airflow into the air filter. I was > >thinking of removing the front grill and replacing it with some sort of > >mesh to direct more airflow into the air-filter. Problem is, the battery > >is right smack in front of the airfilter. I'm also not too convinced that > >the little plastic hose that directs airflow into the airfilter is > >effective at all. ANybody know where that hose leads to/from anyways? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 11:38:56 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Heat shield Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com It always bothered me that the trunk (rear) of my MR2 T was close to an oven after some driving. I never used it for heat sensitive things. Here is a simple mod to lower considerably the temperature inside the rear trunk. Remove the rear exhaust tank by removing the two screws from the pipe joint, also the ones holding the middle of the rear tank with the second cat pipe and the two large screws holding the tank at its sides to the chassis. (remember to get a replacement gasket for the pipe connection for the old one cannot be re-used) Above the rear tank is a heat shield held with nuts on screws protruding from the chassis downwards. Remove the nuts and the heat shield. Get a heat shield blanket or asbestos cloth laminated on one side with aluminum foil. This is the best. Fold the blanket in two so as the asbestos to be inside and the alu laminate on the outside, both sides. Lay the fold in parallel to the heat shield just removed and mark it all around, the holes as well. Cut it to exactly 1/4 of an inch smaller (inside the mark) than the heat shield, and also cut the marked holes preferably with a punch. Laying the asbestos blanket on the heat shield it should be slightly smaller and the holes should match the ones on the blanket. Sandwich the asbestos blanket between the chassis and the heat shield and fasten the nuts. Re-install the exhaust and do not forget to use a fresh flange. Now you have a cool trunk. Easy and effective. I have used the asbestos fibber blanket as no other quality heat shield material was available in the required thickness. Do not use asbestos board for it tends to absorb moisture and water and disintegrate. Asbestos woven fabric laminated, used double, works fine and cut slightly smaller will not protrude at the sides of the stock heat shield. If the use of asbestos is prohibited in your area you will have to find equivalent material. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 00:46:34 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wanted: Toy PArts Attention all you peeples... I need the following items to complete several projects... I need 2 (not one but too) 2-TG Theromstat housings waternecks too if possible >=) Also an FX16 GTS Turbo Manifold (yeah..i gonna turbo mines...don't ask) Willing to pay top dollar (name your price) but need them like Yesterday... Thanks... -Allen T Koji Kam 1987 FX-16 GTS Turbo (No manifold but got the turbo in the backseat -grin-) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 01:12:32 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE:Cold Air Induction From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Sat Jun 1 11:45:58 1996 Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 13:42:56 -0700 From: David Rees Subject: Re: Cold Air Induction >In the Toyota Performance Handbook, they show a Supra which uses aluminum >foil to wrap his intake. I guess that would help some, but I think that >header wrap would work a lot better, seeing how well they work for holding >heat inside headers. Not a bad idea! One problem with the TPH, is that when it was written and whom it was written by and what sources contribuited. Basically, it came down to a few select choices... and it came out decently, although it desires a lot. The FAQ that is supposed to be here -bop forehead- should cover this more indepth (now I have time to work on this) Header wrap was a "new invention" back when the THP was published I belive, thus all these new "inexpensive" ways came about to get the same results. You can achieve much better. Also, Header Wrap Tape, is not on my favorites at the moment. I must ask you the basic question, if the tape keeps the heat inside of the headers, where does it flow to ? More then likely, your head..and if thats so...your nice aluminum head goes bye bye... At least...thats what HKS told me ;) >Dave -Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 12:52:41 -0500 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Mk I MR2 parts Sorry to waste the bandwidth, but I'm trying to do the last push to get the parts out of my garage. This is the big one - no reasonable offer resfused. I am very motivated to get rid of the large stuff - I need the room more then I need the money. :) Everything needs to go, I need the space. The bigger the item, the better the deal we can make. Check out my web page for the updated list and prices. I'm trying to keep the list as accurate as possible, but I am mostly concentrating on the large stuff. I'd think you'd be suprised what I'd take for the right quarter panel, wheels/tires, front hood, doors, bumpers, etc. :) Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 08:23:24 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Wanted: Toy Parts From bagdon@rust.net Sun Jun 2 04:16:20 1996 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 10:15:54 -0500 To: Allen T Koji Kam > From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Wanted: Toy PArts >>I need the following items to complete several projects... >> >>I need 2 (not one but too) 2-TG Theromstat housings >>waternecks too if possible >>=) >> >>Also an FX16 GTS Turbo Manifold (yeah..i gonna turbo mines...don't ask) >Tourque steer!!!! Actually, the Torque steer is not as bad as you might think, or was I expected seems very easily predictable and manageable. I had to change my driving style a lot from RWD to FWD, but mainly I just have to be more precise, and I can throw my FX around a circle track without any problems or slide / drift around corners with ease... >>Willing to pay top dollar (name your price) but need them like >>Yesterday... Yeah, need the theromostat housings and manifold soon =) >See if anyone has one lying around for an MR2 or a Corolla GTS - should fit. Yeah, but the FX comes stock with Turbo in europe, and hoping to get one of those, i have a custom one, but it sucks looks poor, rather have an orig to copy off of. >Steve B. Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 12:32:59 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Airbag At 10:20 PM 6/1/96 -0500, you wrote: >>At 10:43 PM 5/31/96 -0400, you wrote: >>>I have a problem with my airbag, and haven't been able to figure out the >>>problem. >>>I recently had an aftermarket stereo in stalled, and ever since then my >>>airbag light has been on. Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused >>>this? >>>Also has anyone tried puting a superchip in there MKII turbo? >>> >>>thanks >>>Rich Rainaldo >>>92 MKII turbo >>> >>Whoever installed your stereo must have powered up the ignition with the >>instrument cluster disconnected. This will cause the airbag warning to >>trigger. Once its triggered it will stay on until you have it reset by the >>dealer. Someone on this list may know how to do it, but I don't. > >What type of stereo install would require the instrument cluster to be >removed, on a Mk II? Are you refering to the 'guage set'? > >I've been behind my stereo plenty of times, and have never had to remove >the instrument cluster. > >Steve B. > I certainly am not claiming that you have to remove it, but I've seen this happen before. Probably whoever installed it just took apart more than they had to, or disconnected something that was not necessary. When working on your own car, you knnow it well, and you know exactly what to do. When someone else works on it, well....you know what can happen. But, regardless, this is the most likely option that would cause his airbag light to trigger. And actually, I agree with you Steve. Toyota's are about the easiest cars to install stereos on. Usually its just a few screws to remove the trim piece, then 4 screws and you remove the whole stereo assembly. Toyota! Oh what a feeling! :^) Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 12:33:01 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Placement of Speakers For MK1 MR2 At 03:36 PM 6/2/96 EST, Harry Pitaro wrote: >Hi all, > >I'm looking to upgrade my sound system. So far I have only been to two >outlets for information and both contradict each other. One says that >to get the best sound you can use the factory speaker placements, while >the other says that you should put some speakers in the doors and have >them designed and angled back towards the seats. Which one is correct? > >I was thinking of placing tweeters in the front on dash, midrange in >the back and woofers behind the seats. Is this a reasonable setup? > >I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts. >Thanks in advance. > >Regards, >Harry Pitaro Placing tweeters in the front, midrange in the back and woofers behind the seats will not sound good at all. For proper imaging and sound quality, all speakers producing frequencies above 150 Hz should be at approximately the same location. Within 15 inches is a good guideline. Otherwise, you hear different frequencies coming from different places. Having already done this myself, here's what I can offer. The mk I is terrible for speaker installations. If you really want a significant improvement you will have to find speaker locations other than stock. The stock locations only hold 4" speakers and are the driver side location is extremely shallow. Your second problem is that the doors don't have any good locations to place new speakers. The '87 mr2 came with map pockets along the lower edge of the door which really get in the way of putting speakers there. This makes for a very tough time doing a "clean" installation. What I did, and this is definitely temporary, is I unscrewed the map pockets from the door panels, and installed a 5-1/4" speaker in the lower front corner of each door. If you don't have power windows, you should have no problem fitting this without cutting metal. Just make sure you line it up correctly on the door panel. A 6-1/2" speaker should fit with some trimming of the door metal. If you do have the power package it might not fit, I haven't seen where the lock relays and window motors are located. My stereo is comprised of a Premier tape deck and CD Changer which is under the front hood. I have two soundstream amplifiers and a 2-way audiocontrol electronic crossover under the seats. An 8" bazooka tube is behind each seat (my legs are short, if you're taller try 6-1/2" tubes). I don't like the sound of the bazookas much, but they are all I can fit until I figure something else out. Now, for the speakers, I have a three-way MB Quart seperate setup. This has 2 tweeters, 2 4" midrange, and 2 5-1/4" mid-bass speakers. This package is also available with 6-1/2" mid-bass. I put the 4 inch in the factory locations tho they are a little too shallow and one speaker grill sticks up 1/4". The tweeters are angle mounted at the top front corner of the doors, and the 5-1/4" are at the bottom front like I said. I plan on re-upholstering the bottom of the doors to remove all traces of the original map pockets and make the installation look complete. Well, thats all of it, hope it helps! Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 15:36:09 EST Subject: Placement of Speakers For MK1 MR2 Hi all, I'm looking to upgrade my sound system. So far I have only been to two outlets for information and both contradict each other. One says that to get the best sound you can use the factory speaker placements, while the other says that you should put some speakers in the doors and have them designed and angled back towards the seats. Which one is correct? I was thinking of placing tweeters in the front on dash, midrange in the back and woofers behind the seats. Is this a reasonable setup? I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks in advance. Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 15:36:11 EST Subject: Excessive Fuel Consumption MK1 MR2 Hi all, I used to get about 370km around town from a tank of petrol (about 36litres). Now I'm getting around 310km. I've changed the air filter and changed the oil (SST to remove oil filter is great; makes an awkward and time consuming task a breeze). Still no improvement. Can anyone suggest what else I should look for? Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:12:01 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: (FWD) H##P Is the (ignition) ignitor the same for '91NA and '91T?!?! This one never made it to the list - just a reminder not to include the H E L P word in the first few lines or subject of the message :) Paul. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 16:00:14 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: H**p!!! Is the (ignition) ignitor the same for '91NA and '91T?!?! I have been having a hesitation problem with my '91 MR2 Turbo, with the manifestation being a code 14 in the ECU memory. This code means that the ECU has not recieved proper voltage to pin IGF(?) 8-11 time in a row. The manual states that there is a problem with the coil, igniter, or ECU. The car will randomly hesitate (for no apparent reason) for about 5 seconds, then return back to normal, with a kick. I purchased a coil and igniter combo from a local salvage yard today (Saturday), they had to order it in on Tuesday, and I couldn't pick it up until today. I specifically stated that my car is a Turbo, they ordered the part, and stated that it came out of a 4Runner(?) V-6. When I stated it needed to be coming out of an MR2 Turbo (or Celica AllTrac Turbo), they stated that most of the V-6 Toyota/Lexus cars (including the Camry V-6, ES-250 V-6, etc.) should be compatible with the MR2 Turbo (V-6 needs as much ingition oomph as a Turbo I-4?). I brought the parts home - the car still running, but always that hesitiation problem in the back of my mind. I decided to replace only one part at a time, starting with the igniter - I didn't want to replace both, have the problem go away, then have to spend more time figuring out which part is was. So I removed my current (questionable) ignitor, but when I compared them to each other - the part numbers are different! I called the Local Toyota dealership, asked them for the Turbo ignitor part number, and the part number they stated matched what came *out* of my car. Then I asked if the part number of the other ignitor was functionally equivalent, and he *instantly* said 'no, that's the part number for the NA'. So the old igniter (questionable as it was) goes back in the car. Everything is put back together - and now the car won't run at all!!! Check everything, go through the manual, and step one says check the coil 'high-tension' wire against the car body, to see if I get spark. No spark. The ignitor appears to be dead. After cycling the ECU, code 14 comes back now every time. But this actually makes me a little bit happy - now instead of an *intermittant* problem, I have a *continuous* problem - the car won't even start, much less run long enough to hesistate. That makes it a *lot* more easy to debug! :) As a test, I *did* install the incorrect part-numbered ignitor. The car *does* start and idle with the NA(?) ingitor. I just don't want to drive it yet. So here are my problems: * Are the two igniters (NA(?) and Turbo) functionally equivalent? * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to my car * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to the ignitor * If I have to have a Turbo ignitor, should I return it and buy *new* The salvage yard gave me a 30day replacement warranty - so I see no reason why I can't return it for the part that I asked for. I am more worried about what the ignitor would do to my car, then what my car will do to the ignitor (since I *specically* told them it was for a Turbo). Help!!! I don't feel comfortable driving the car until they can get the correct part in, and if they ask for the old part back *before* they order the new part, then I'm really up a creek. If I can't drive the car (the *other* ignitor is not equivalent), or if they want the old part back first, I'll have to rent a car until they can get the part in. I can get *just* the ignitor for $100, or a new one for $225+ or so - anyone know what the life expectacny of these things are? I'd rather pay double and get a new one, then buy a used one that just dies after a few months. Thanks a bunch to *anyone* who can answer *any* of these many questions. I'm land-locked until I settle this. :( Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 20:14:11 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: H**p!!! Is the (ignition) ignitor the same for '91NA and '91T?!?! I have been having a hesitation problem with my '91 MR2 Turbo, with the manifestation being a code 14 in the ECU memory. This code means that the ECU has not recieved proper voltage to pin IGF(?) 8-11 time in a row. The manual states that there is a problem with the coil, igniter, or ECU. The car will randomly hesitate (for no apparent reason) for about 5 seconds, then return back to normal, with a kick. I purchased a coil and igniter combo from a local salvage yard today (Saturday), they had to order it in on Tuesday, and I couldn't pick it up until today. I specifically stated that my car is a Turbo, they ordered the part, and stated that it came out of a 4Runner(?) V-6. When I stated it needed to be coming out of an MR2 Turbo (or Celica AllTrac Turbo), they stated that most of the V-6 Toyota/Lexus cars (including the Camry V-6, ES-250 V-6, etc.) should be compatible with the MR2 Turbo (V-6 needs as much ingition oomph as a Turbo I-4?). I brought the parts home - the car still running, but always that hesitiation problem in the back of my mind. I decided to replace only one part at a time, starting with the igniter - I didn't want to replace both, have the problem go away, then have to spend more time figuring out which part is was. So I removed my current (questionable) ignitor, but when I compared them to each other - the part numbers are different! I called the Local Toyota dealership, asked them for the Turbo ignitor part number, and the part number they stated matched what came *out* of my car. Then I asked if the part number of the other ignitor was functionally equivalent, and he *instantly* said 'no, that's the part number for the NA'. So the old igniter (questionable as it was) goes back in the car. Everything is put back together - and now the car won't run at all!!! Check everything, go through the manual, and step one says check the coil 'high-tension' wire against the car body, to see if I get spark. No spark. The ignitor appears to be dead. After cycling the ECU, code 14 comes back now every time. But this actually makes me a little bit happy - now instead of an *intermittant* problem, I have a *continuous* problem - the car won't even start, much less run long enough to hesistate. That makes it a *lot* more easy to debug! :) As a test, I *did* install the incorrect part-numbered ignitor. The car *does* start and idle with the NA(?) ingitor. I just don't want to drive it yet. So here are my problems: * Are the two igniters (NA(?) and Turbo) functionally equivalent? * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to my car * Will running the car with the NA(?) ignitor cause harm to the ignitor * If I have to have a Turbo ignitor, should I return it and buy *new* The salvage yard gave me a 30day replacement warranty - so I see no reason why I can't return it for the part that I asked for. I am more worried about what the ignitor would do to my car, then what my car will do to the ignitor (since I *specically* told them it was for a Turbo). Help!!! I don't feel comfortable driving the car until they can get the correct part in, and if they ask for the old part back *before* they order the new part, then I'm really up a creek. If I can't drive the car (the *other* ignitor is not equivalent), or if they want the old part back first, I'll have to rent a car until they can get the part in. I can get *just* the ignitor for $100, or a new one for $225+ or so - anyone know what the life expectacny of these things are? I'd rather pay double and get a new one, then buy a used one that just dies after a few months. Thanks a bunch to *anyone* who can answer *any* of these many questions. I'm land-locked until I settle this. :( Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 03 Jun 96 12:02:19 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Owner Cc: Owner Subject: 4 Sale! Hello all, I'm about to buy an electronic boost controller and already bought PIAA1000 Fog Lamps. Thusly I have the following for sale. 1) Greddy TVVC $150 (Less than 6 months old) 2) Toyota Factory Fog Lamps (MK2) $150 - a STEAL All interested should email me directly at ---> MisterTwo@aol.com Later, Larry S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Raikkonen Timo To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: bagdon , Subject: RE: Wanted: Toy Parts Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 11:23:00 PDT Hi there freaks! :) I havent heard that there are any factory turboed FX16 (FWD) corollas in Europe? In fact I didn't know there were any producet at all (at least with 4A-GE based). I though know/have_heard that some AE-86 (RWD) Corollas with turboed 4A-GE were produces by factory, but how many? Any ideas what hp's that factory turbo FX was producing and was it with 4A-GE based engine? I have heard of some other turbo engines though. The stock 4AG ('88 ->) with turbo can take 190hp (or even more) with only headgasget mods - twin stock gasgets and a 1mm copperplate between them. This is to lower the compression. This 190hp can be achieved without intercooler... heh... I did :) And it lasts at over 100tkm (well this was in 170hp tune :). I have my old selfmade turbo system (for FX16) availabel here in Finland if someone is interested (maybe expensive to ship in States though...?) - icluding everything to get it working: turbo, housing, tubing, copper plate between headgagsets, fuel enrichement... My new setup is now in its place and working - just need that time to install that aftermarket fuel computer. New setup is with 4A-GEZ pistons and steel headgasget. Bigger Holset turbo and modified MersedesBenz truck intercooler etc. -Timo- (traikkonen@c2000.fi) ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: toyota-mods Subject: RE: Wanted: Toy Parts Date: 2. 06. 1996 8:23 From bagdon@rust.net Sun Jun 2 04:16:20 1996 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 10:15:54 -0500 To: Allen T Koji Kam > From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Wanted: Toy PArts >>I need the following items to complete several projects... >> >>I need 2 (not one but too) 2-TG Theromstat housings >>waternecks too if possible >>=) >> >>Also an FX16 GTS Turbo Manifold (yeah..i gonna turbo mines...don't ask) >Tourque steer!!!! Actually, the Torque steer is not as bad as you might think, or was I expected seems very easily predictable and manageable. I had to change my driving style a lot from RWD to FWD, but mainly I just have to be more precise, and I can throw my FX around a circle track without any problems or slide / drift around corners with ease... >>Willing to pay top dollar (name your price) but need them like >>Yesterday... Yeah, need the theromostat housings and manifold soon =) >See if anyone has one lying around for an MR2 or a Corolla GTS - should fit. Yeah, but the FX comes stock with Turbo in europe, and hoping to get one of those, i have a custom one, but it sucks looks poor, rather have an orig to copy off of. >Steve B. Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 21:08:32 +0200 To: garye@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Gary Eng) From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Heat shield for a cool trunk Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >> sv1bt@compulink.gr writes: >> >> It always bothered me that the trunk (rear) of my MR2 T was close to an >> oven after some driving. I never used it for heat sensitive things. >> >Me too. Thanks for the excellent ideas. Two questions come to mind: >1. How high a temperature must this insulating material withstand? The temperature is not very high. My ETG reads 400 to 600 of exhaust gas temp right after the first cat. As I mentioned woven asbestos cloth laminated on one side with alum foil, folded with the asbestos cloth to the inside works fantastic. If you cannot get this material then the advertised heat shield blankets would do fine. >2. What thickness material did you use? The screws that hold the stock heat shield metal there have a length of about 1 cm after the heat shield and the nut are installed, so theoretically you can use a thickness of up to 1 cm and there is available clearance to the exhaust tank plenty. The two fold asbestos laminate I used has a total thickness of 2 to 3 mm. With this material you can run multiple layers if the two-fold is not enough. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 21:08:37 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Input air temperature Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Talking to the chief engineer of the Toyota European Championship Team the other day I pointed out that their air filters were standard box type (large though) and not cone or mushroom type that we see advertised by the various performance up-grades. He explained to me that the box enclosing the filter is a good heat shield to prevent the hot air around the engine getting in. The box has a wide pipe running out of it to the front grill of those racers ensuring fresh cool air input. He then took a look at my layout, with the large cone K&N going straight into the turbo, asked me to show him the box I had removed and advised me to re-install the box and the tube that goes down to the side vent. Fortunately I had not thrown away an adapter that HKS had sent me which made possible to connect the round pipe of the turbo to the square output of the filter box (without the air flow meter stuff ). He told me that whatever gain I had from the diameter difference I was loosing much more from the heated air I was piping in. So I did just that. I even used an old paper filter that was left in the stock filter box when I had it removed and I can tell you that the engine runs much better now. I will do some real testing as soon as I get a clean filter in. He advised that I could do much better if I found a larger air filter box and installed it. He recommended a size of twice the stock ( which we measured and fits ok ). Also he recommended a larger diameter tube from the input of the box to the side vent. I think this will be my next project. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 03 Jun 96 16:42:14 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: Geoff Cc: Owner , Subject: Nose Job Done..... Geoff, As I told ya, this past week I changed my nose and fog lamps. I only have one word to describe the process. HELL!! Don't try this at home unless you have a lot of time. All told, it took me about 12 hours SOLID time. And I still haven't finished aligning the lights yet. I'll put together a how to, but it's gonna take me about a week. It'll probably be about 10-15 pages. I had to take the headlight assemblys apart and remove them to give you an idea. Anyways, all said and done, the people I got to paint the nose dropped the ball. It doesn't match. :-( Not only that, but they ordered a rear bumper support, not a front one. I had to bang out the old one as best I could. It's all finished, and the body shop guy is gonna blend the nose for me. Like I said, I'll make up a how to for the web sight and upload some pictures. Later, Larry S. 91' MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 14:22:26 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Fred Miranda Subject: Re: Input air temperature Kostas Thats very good info. It's good to hear it comming from a race engineer. What I did on my 323GTX(sorry) is partition off a corner of the engine bay to house the K&N and then ducted outside air to it. >He explained to me that the box enclosing the filter is a good heat shield >to prevent the hot air around the engine getting in. The box has a wide pipe >running out of it to the front grill of those racers ensuring fresh cool air >input. He then took a look at my layout, with the large cone K&N going >straight into the turbo, asked me to show him the box I had removed and >advised me to re-install the box and the tube that goes down to the side >vent. Fortunately I had not thrown away an adapter that HKS had sent me >which made possible to connect the round pipe of the turbo to the square >output of the filter box (without the air flow meter stuff ). Fred Miranda '86 Toyota Turbo pu- 185kmiles orig bottom end, new head and T03 turbo '88 Mazda 323GTX- TEC2,VNT turbo, Eclipse injectors etc '65 Lotus Elan- Autronic fuel injection, toyota fuel pump and injectors! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "kostas g. d. chryssos" Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 3 Jun 96 16:28:07 Subject: Input air temperature How much difference in performance can we expect with a cold-air intake? Is it across the rev-range, upper, lower? Does intake temperature affect EFI set-ups more than carbed engines? Sounds like a good idea for a project -- I have dual side-draft Mikunis w/ K&N filters and air-horns. I'm thinking of building a box enclosing both filters and having some tube that sucks fresh air from outside the engine compartment. Would this improve anything, or would the tubing and the box just restrict the air-flow that any benefit of having a cold-air intake will just go down the drain? I'm willing to bet that the K&N filters I have flow very well --I can actually hear the carbs 'gargle'...=) Anyway, comments anyone? John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: mr2-digest @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet (bcc: John Limcangco) From: sv1bt @ compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos) @ internet Date: 06/03/96 09:08 PM Subject: Input air temperature ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ He told me that whatever gain I had from the diameter difference I was loosing much more from the heated air I was piping in. He advised that I could do much better if I found a larger air filter box and installed it. He recommended a size of twice the stock ( which we measured and fits ok ). Also he recommended a larger diameter tube from the input of the box to the side vent. I think this will be my next project. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:32:29 -0600 (MDT) From: Lance Heinrich Subject: Re: Input air temperature To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos" Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Kind of interesting how just yesterday I was sorting out what steps to take on the intake of my '91 T with a friend of mine (I am his service crew chief for his pro rally team - brand new ultra low budget team this year) that most recently built a pro-rally mid-engined mustang. Everything he suggested to add to my ideas matches what Kostas indicated in his message. Put a box around the cone filter, cause it sure does get hot under there (better off leaving the stock box with K&N filter otherwise if I plan to just suck in hot air), and increase the diameter of the tube from the side intake feeding right into the cone. I will likely be creating a funnel shaped end at the side intake to help concentrate the incoming air a bit more and will be putting in a screen of some sort to help keep some of the water and bigger debris from being force fed into the filter. Lance. --------------------------------------------------------------- | Lance Heinrich @ Valmet Automation (Canada) Ltd. | lanceh@sa-cgy.valmet.com | | 1991 MR2 Turbo | Previous MR2's : '86 Normally Aspirated, '89 Supercharged On Mon, 3 Jun 1996, Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: ... stuff deleted ... > He explained to me that the box enclosing the filter is a good heat shield > to prevent the hot air around the engine getting in. The box has a wide pipe > running out of it to the front grill of those racers ensuring fresh cool air > input. He then took a look at my layout, with the large cone K&N going > straight into the turbo, asked me to show him the box I had removed and > advised me to re-install the box and the tube that goes down to the side > vent. Fortunately I had not thrown away an adapter that HKS had sent me > which made possible to connect the round pipe of the turbo to the square > output of the filter box (without the air flow meter stuff ). > ... bunch more stuff deleted to save space ... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 17:28:20 -0700 To: "john.limcangco" , From: David Rees Subject: Re: Input air temperature I would expect an increase in performance across the entire rev-range. Whenever you can get more air (cold air has a higher density than warm air) into the engine you're going to get more power, as long as you get more fuel in there too. Sport Compact Car in their March '96 magazine did a test on a cold air intake by AEM. It replaced the factory airbox (quite restrictive) in a stock '95 Civic EX (I know, not a Toyota, but the theory is the same regardless). The AEM unit is an aluminum pipe routed from the throttle body, to outside of the engine compartment where it can draw cold air from outside of the car. On the end of the pipe is a large K&N conical airfilter, attached to an air horn which is attached to the pipe. They recorded horsepower gains across the board, from 2000rpm to 7000rpm, except at 3000rpm where it was the same as stock (at 53hp). Max gains were at 5000rpm with 12 more ponies than stock! Max hp is now around 106-107 hp at 7000 rpm instead of 101 at 7000. Compare this to other intakes (hot air drawn from inside engine compartment) which usually make from zero (bad designs) to eight or nine (good designs) ponies over stock. Most make around 5 or so. (I found this latter information on various WWW sites, email me if you want to take a look) So it seems that colder air is good! I think the trick to to make sure the intake path isn't too small or twisty, and draws air from outside the engine compartment. Dave At 04:28 PM 6/3/96, John wrote: >How much difference in performance can we expect with a cold-air intake? Is it >across the rev-range, upper, lower? Does intake temperature affect EFI set-ups >more than carbed engines? > >Sounds like a good idea for a project -- I have dual side-draft Mikunis w/ K&N >filters and air-horns. I'm thinking of building a box enclosing both filters >and having some tube that sucks fresh air from outside the engine >compartment. Would this improve anything, or would the tubing and the box just >restrict the air-flow that any benefit of having a cold-air intake will just go >down the drain? I'm willing to bet that the K&N filters I have flow very well >--I can actually hear the carbs 'gargle'...=) > >Anyway, comments anyone? > >John Limcangco >Manila, Philippines >79 Cressida 18RG xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:38:32 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: 20 Valve 4AGE head For you folks who have seen them - I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve - an extra lobe on the cam? Thanks, Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net '89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 (ITA) '83 RX-7 GSL '85 RX-7 GS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 15:23:33 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 8.38 pm on3/6/96 Bruce Crawford wrote: >For you folks who have seen them - > >I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you >folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? > >What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve >- an extra lobe on the cam? Yes, us folks in NZ can most definately get them - I've been driving one for the past 2 years and 26,000 miles in my Lotus 7 Replica. I was running a 1983 4AGE 16V on injection prior to the 20V. The exhaust cam looked much the same(although I didn't take any measurements), however it directly drives the distributor off the 'free' end. The inlet cam has the VVT pulley on the front, and has an extra lobe for the 3rd valve. Due to the angle of the extra valve in relation to the other 2 it's cam lobe is slightly retarded (I think), but I believe all 3 valves open simultaneously. I dunno about playing around with them - I guess you can, however I am lead to believe one was played with extensively out here but for minimal gains. (Doesn't mean to say it can't be done) I run the engine stock, on injection (four throttle bodies), with the stock computer. I am trying to get some bits for someone at the moment, and will be in Auckland in the next month, hope to get a better idea on parts availability then. I have been quoted $1500 NZ for an engine($1 NZ = $0.62 US), and paid $2500 NZ 2 years ago for motor complete from air flow meter to factory extractors, clutch to fan belt, alternator, starter motor, loom, computer, coil, igniter and wiring diagram. The motor came out in 1991, and was still in production last year. I believe it is about to be stretched to 1800cc. It puts out 120kW as a 1600.The block is very different to the 1983 engine, and I suspect it is different to the 100kW, but I have yet to confirm. Please contact me if you want to know more, and I'll help if I can. My car has to be reliable (only car) so I use a stock engine. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint (Lotus 7 Replica) 20 Valve 4AGE 'Built to Drive, Not Look At!' xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 20:54:03 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: Placement of Speakers For MK1 MR2 At 08:30 PM 6/3/96 EST, you wrote: >** Reply to note from Jason McDonald 06/02/96 12:33pm -0700 > >Thanks for the advice Jason. It looks like I will have to do some rework of the >door skins to get some good sound. What sort of power output are your amps >putting out? The amp I'm considering has 40W RMS per channel. Would you know if >this is enough to drive some JBL 200W speakers (Tweeter in upper front of door >and 6.5" in lower part of door)? I'm after clarity not volume. > >Regards, >Harry Pitaro My current setup uses a soundstream reference 200 to power 2 bazookas in mono bridged. That works out to 200 watts / 2. My three way components get a total of 25W each. These power ratings are very conservative, not your typical advertised wattages that are blown way out of reality. I think you're 40 Watts RMS is just about perfect, plenty of power. Also, over powering your speakers can be a good thing, as long as you don't turn it up louder than sanity dictates. Extra power gives you extra headroom many times improving your sound quality at those louder volumes. I recommend really going for the good names in buying amplifiers. I personally like Soundstream and Precision Power (PPI). Jason McDonald xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 14:27:56 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Input air temperature Hiya all, A quick word on inlet temps affecting power output. A quick rule-of-thumb is that for 1 deg C drop in temp, you'll get a 1/3% increase in power. The practical example I can think of is (Ok, it's an aeroplane ...) a Piper Senneca 2 Turbo. The Continental TSIO-470's (I think) are rated at sea level at 200 hp. (Under the conditions of 1013 Mb's - or 29.92 in - and 15 deg C) At 15,000 ft they are rated at 220 hp - the manifold pressure staying the same as sea level, but the outside air temp dropping to -15 deg C) So, for a 30 deg C drop in air temp, the engine picked up 10% in power, ie, 1 deg C = 1/3% increase. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 14:37:23 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head >For you folks who have seen them - > >I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you >folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? > >What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve >- an extra lobe on the cam? > >Thanks, > >Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net >'89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 (ITA) '83 RX-7 GSL '85 RX-7 GS > Hiya Bruce, We have a fairly big import business from Japan here in Aus, so almost any engine is available! :) To give some examples of 20V 4AGE's though, the best price I've come across is Aus$1400 (US$1120). That was for an engine that had a damaged sump, but otherwise perfect. (An earlier 4AGE sump was modified to fit - the blocks are slightly different) The same group that imported that engine told me that they are bringing in a supercharged version of the 20V!! - Can't wait to check it out. A more typical price would be around the Aus$2000-2500 mark. (US$1600-2000) The most expensive one I've seen is advertised for Aus$3500 (US$2800)- I think they'll be keeping that one in the shop for a while! The inlet cam is exactly the same as the 16V, except it has an extra lobe to run the third inlet valve. The cam bearings are in a different place because of that. The B Man. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:35:53 +1200 (NZST) To: Adam Grove , From: Peter Whelan Subject: Re: my header experience... At 04:56 PM 31/05/96 -0400, Adam Grove wrote: > > >But there are other significant negatives: > 1) It's very much noiser than stock. Everything else is stock, even >the exhaust (although I'm changing this very soon) and I didn't expect >the header to make such a large difference. I was wrong. >I also thought that I didn't really care how loud things got. I was >wrong about that too. > 2) It's very hot. The head has a shiny finish (chrome?) which >should help reduce radiated heat. But not enough. >It looks like I am boiling the clutch fluid, because I can't disengage the >clutch after running for 1/2 an hour or more---the pedal just goes to >the floor---although it's ok after letting it cool down. Does anyone >know if I've diagnosed this correctly? >If so I'm going to have to make some sort of heat shield. (Ideas anyone?). > > -Adam yep, the best heat shield material I have come across is the shielding material that Toyota use to stop the distributor melting on the 4age engine. This material can be reshaped and cut. It consists of two very thin sheets of galvanised steel sandwiching some foil and asbestos type material. You can cut this with tin snips or a guillitine, but you will need to fold over the edges afterwards to stop the white asbestous type material escaping. Best of luck Liam > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:35:59 +1200 (NZST) To: Bruce Crawford , From: Peter Whelan Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 08:38 PM 3/06/96 -0400, Bruce Crawford wrote: >For you folks who have seen them - > >I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you >folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? > >What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve >- an extra lobe on the cam? > >Thanks, > >Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net >'89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 (ITA) '83 RX-7 GSL '85 RX-7 GS Bruce I don't know much about these heads but Phil Brasdshaw who is on the list runs a 5 valve in his Lotus 7 replica. When I drove this car it had heaps of mid end grunt but shows no significant gains up top. My similar 4age powered car with stock engine gave away very little performance in the mid range and may have had more up top. Phil may have a different view of this. A couple of guys have played with them here. I know one engine was put on a dyno and they were unable to get anywhere near the toyota stated performance. They were never imported new to Nerw Zealand but many the engine importers will bring them in to order and there are probably a few lurking around. See if you can get more info from Phil though. He is very helpful and knowlegeable on these engines. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:36:03 +1200 (NZST) To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Peter Whelan Subject: 4age 12:1 pistons & cam timing Can anyone help me with pricing and the best place to buy 12:1 compression pistons for the later model red top engine with the 20mm gudgeon pin! Can any one provide me with the standard cam timing for the small port 4age engine? Can anyone help me with pricing and the best place to buy a 7-8mm high performance gasket? Can anyone help me with pricing and the best place to buy TRD main and big end bearings? I regularly import equipment from the States and have a credit card. The 1990 small port 4age engine apparently runs 9.5:1 compression as standard while the 91-92 small port engine runs 10.3:1 compression. Unfortunatley I don't know what year my engine is. My engine is in pieces. Does anyone know how I can tell which one I have? many thanks for any help. Liam Venter. But I can't have run out of money - I still have some cheques left! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 16:17:48 +1000 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: jhayden@gil.com.au (John Hayden) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head Bill and group, >The most expensive one I've seen is advertised for Aus$3500 (US$2800)- I >think they'll be keeping that one in the shop for a while! >The inlet cam is exactly the same as the 16V, except it has an extra lobe to >run the third inlet valve. The cam bearings are in a different place because >of that. Does the twenty valve motor have a few more ribs on the block like a 4AGZE motor?? I know of one rally car in Australia (formerly in Brisbane but now in Sydney which is a Jap import Sprinter) and I'm told that the 20 valve motor has these extra ribs. John xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 19:54:58 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 5:35 pm 4/6/96 Peter Wheelan wrote: > >Bruce I don't know much about these heads but Phil Bradshaw who is on the >list runs a 5 valve in his Lotus 7 replica. When I drove this car it had >heaps of mid end grunt but shows no significant gains up top. My similar >4age powered car with stock engine gave away very little performance in the >mid range and may have had more up top. Phil may have a different view of >this. A couple of guys have played with them here. I know one engine was put >on a dyno and they were unable to get anywhere near the toyota stated >performance. Damn right I have a different view! Is that Liam hiding under an alias!? In all seriousness, on the day in question the 'private road' had a lot of traffic and we couldn't really wind the cars out, or repeat runs. At the time Liam was running a stock blue and black top on webers and 4 into 1 extractors, which are supposed to give you about 20 horse extra, ie 140 vs my 165. Admittedly Liam had low compression on one pot, so would have been down even lower in grunt. We only got up to about 100 mph due to traffic, however my car starts to hit the aerodynamic wall at about 90mph. Both cars were two-up, although I had full trim, a spare, clamshell front guards, a full windscreen and tools. The 7 has a cd of .74 (yes, I weep) and the stryker must be down to .35 or less. I also weigh about 600kg in road trim, Liam is some 60 kg lighter. Basically I am about 275 horse/ton in road trim, as best quesstimate, (assuming the 20V quoted figures are correct) so the stryker should have me on both aerodynamics and maybe power to weight. I run out to 115 mph when the speed limiter cuts in, but I reckon it should do a genuine 120 with it disabled - this seems reasonable from studying figures for caterhams, and from the amount it is still picking up. The 20 V makes max power at 7800, but I rarely go above 7000-7300 (There seems little point on the road). Redline is 8000. I would fully believe Liam's claim of 130 mph, and wouldn't be surprised if 135 was possible. I run a 16 V cast iron manifold (extractors are on next year's hit list) and my air flow meter/air filter also sits behind and above the exhaust, so I'm losing out on mass flow, but it is good enuff for my driving. At the time I wasn't running the stock Toyota inlet trumpets, but have subsequently shortened them to fit (I had to channel the airbox to clear a spaceframe tube, and the trumpets curve out and down). The Stryker certainly went well and was nice to drive, before all the mods, so it will be interesting now. Liam is no fool in using a stryker - the seven is terribly unaerodynamic - why waste horses? - but I don't really race it, and it is fast enough for the road! This is not a case of sour grapes, but the gauntlet is thrown down for a straight line challenge when I go to Auckland in the next few weeks! Stay tuned. Phil Bradshaw 20V Leitch Super Sprint - 'Real Cars Drive in Snow' + battered ego Palmerston North New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 16:09:26 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Ait Filter box Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I checked the K&N filter catalogue and the largest flat filter I found there was 10" x 10" which is larger in area to the 12" x 6.25" of the stock. What I was not able to locate is the car that wears this filter so I could manage to get a filter box. I may try to build one and I am also considering a can over the cone filter I had before. If anybody can assist in locating a box of 10 x 10 inches please advise. Thks Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 21:29:07 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Air filter box Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I did some investigation with good results. It turned out that the car that uses the 10" x 10" flat filter is the Thunderbird V6 3.8L / V6 3.8L SC, the Mercury V6 3.8L, the Cougar 1990 V6 3.8 SC, the 1991 Cougar XR7, the 1993 Cougar V6 3.8L and the V8 5.0L. I wonder who will have a look in the junk yards of the US for an air filter box for me......all in the shake of science and progress..........????? (Those cars do not grow in this part of the world.....a mater of climate ........... Thks, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 12:55:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: 20 Valve 4AGE head To: Toyota Mods hi there > For you folks who have seen them - > > I am thinking about playing around with a 20 valve 4AGE head. Can any of you > folks in NZ or Australia get them? Used? the whole engine ... sure just the head? not so sure .. have to find someone willing to split the two > What do the cams look like? And how does Toyota actuate the 3rd intake valve > - an extra lobe on the cam? yeppers .. extra lobe on the cam .... it also has a VVT system (variable valve timing). There's a solinoide on the side of the block that controls this .... the other NZers on this list will know more about them than me. : ) Later Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '87 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 22:58:22 +0200 To: charlesg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Charles Grosjean) From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Input air temperature Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >In mlist.mr2-interest you write: > >>He advised that I could do much better if I found a larger air filter box >>and installed it. He recommended a size of twice the stock ( which we >>measured and fits ok ). Also he recommended a larger diameter tube from the >>input of the box to the side vent. > >A little while back, I started fabricating a fiberglass intake pipe (about >4" in diameter) to use with the stock air box so I could quit re-oiling my >HKS mushroom. I got a little worried about the heat resistance of the >fiberglass though and put the project off. Based on your post, I think I may >go back as time permits and fabricate a new pipe, perhaps out of aluminum >ducting material. The other problem, is the small hole on the side of the >factory airbox. I think I may cut it out and fabricate an aluminum plate >with a larger intake so I can use a piece of silicone hose to attach to the >new intake pipe. > >Looking at the stock filter, the surface area doesn't seem much smaller than >that of the mushroom or medium size K&N's, so it might be worthwhile to stay >with the small airbox and use the K&N or other foam filters. > >Charles Hi there Charles, I think the fiberglass will stand the temperature but alu I for sure better. The stock filter size seems to be of good size. I will get a K&N that fits there and see if there is any difference against the stock maybe tomorrow. The stock box has two restrictions. One the square top output hole which is NOT easy to enlarge (I used an HKS adapter there sent to me sometime ago and the whole thing can be enlarged (ported) but not much. The other is the input hole and pipe. This is no problem. One can use alu corrugated pipe of a larger diameter and cut the hole to fit the pipe. Then you can insert the pipe, flare it from the inside and use silicon rubber to hold it. A bit further down one should fit a strap with the mounting screw to hold the pipe to the body of the car same to the stock mounting. Additionally the air pipe leaving the air box and going into the turbo could use some heat shielding. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:17:12 +1200 (NZST) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: 20 Valve 4AGE head At 07:54 PM 4/06/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >At 5:35 pm 4/6/96 Peter Wheelan wrote: >> >>Bruce I don't know much about these heads but Phil Bradshaw who is on the >>list runs a 5 valve in his Lotus 7 replica. When I drove this car it had >>heaps of mid end grunt but shows no significant gains up top. My similar >>4age powered car with stock engine gave away very little performance in the >>mid range and may have had more up top. Phil may have a different view of >>this. A couple of guys have played with them here. I know one engine was put >>on a dyno and they were unable to get anywhere near the toyota stated >>performance. > >Damn right I have a different view! > >Is that Liam hiding under an alias!? Sorry Phil, I sent my message with out editing the senders name. Peter was the last person in the office to use the email before me. My apologies, Liam. However I was hopeful that you would give your perspective on what was a very limited test. In all seriousness, on the day in >question the 'private road' had a lot of traffic and we couldn't really wind >the cars out, or repeat runs. At the time Liam was running a stock blue and >black top on webers and 4 into 1 extractors, which are supposed to give you >about 20 horse extra, ie 140 vs my 165. Admittedly Liam had low compression >on one pot, so would have been down even lower in grunt. We only got up to >about 100 mph due to traffic, however my car starts to hit the aerodynamic >wall at about 90mph. The low compression turned out to be a result of me measuring compression with out having the throttle valves fully open. Compression later checked out fine, within 15lbs of each other. I had my car dynoed by Otahuhu Tuning services a couple of weeks later and It produced 66hp at the back wheels. However I think it bounced to much on their rollers. We realistically believe the horse power to have been about 120-125hp at the crank. I think it might be less now the engine is getting fairly tired. > >Both cars were two-up, although I had full trim, a spare, clamshell front >guards, a full windscreen and tools. The 7 has a cd of .74 (yes, I weep) and >the stryker must be down to .35 or less. I also weigh about 600kg in road >trim, Liam is some 60 kg lighter. Basically I am about 275 horse/ton in road >trim, as best quesstimate, (assuming the 20V quoted figures are correct) so >the stryker should have me on both aerodynamics and maybe power to weight. I >run out to 115 mph when the speed limiter cuts in, but I reckon it should do >a genuine 120 with it disabled - this seems reasonable from studying figures >for caterhams, and from the amount it is still picking up. The 20 V makes >max power at 7800, but I rarely go above 7000-7300 (There seems little point >on the road). Redline is 8000. I would fully believe Liam's claim of 130 >mph, and wouldn't be surprised if 135 was possible. Yes you are correct I achieved 135Mph in the Targa with 4:1 diff. (I think we may have had a favourable wind or gradient - I was too excited to notice). On the day when we drove each others cars I was using a 3:9 diff. My car weighed about 540kg.(It weighs a fraction more now). With the passenger on the day it weighed about 690kg. I begin to hit the wall at a higher speed than you. Please note the correct spelling is Striker. With the standard cam and 32mm chokes i don't think there is any gain over standard headers. Barry Kirk Barnards Fraser with a standard engine with electronic ignition and standard extractors runs neck and neck with me down the straights, despite my superior aerodynamics. > >I run a 16 V cast iron manifold (extractors are on next year's hit list) and >my air flow meter/air filter also sits behind and above the exhaust, so I'm >losing out on mass flow, but it is good enuff for my driving. At the time I >wasn't running the stock Toyota inlet trumpets, but have subsequently >shortened them to fit (I had to channel the airbox to clear a spaceframe >tube, and the trumpets curve out and down). The Stryker certainly went well >and was nice to drive, before all the mods, so it will be interesting now. >Liam is no fool in using a stryker - the seven is terribly unaerodynamic - >why waste horses? - but I don't really race it, and it is fast enough for >the road! >This is not a case of sour grapes, but the gauntlet is thrown down for a >straight line challenge when I go to Auckland in the next few weeks! Excellent but I am afraid it is no contest. My car is is completely naked at the moment. Took about 8 hours last weekend. Even the Aluminium sheeting has been removed. Come to think of it it will may be back on the road by the time your back in Auckland. Kind regards Liam Venter If you thought the handling was good before, you won't beleive the improvements in handling until you drive it! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 14:37:28 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Return of undelivered mail Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. Since it has become very annoying could something be done about this??? Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: gettlerj@hanscom.af.mil Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 9:41:59 EDT To: Subject: Me/Mine/Mods Hi folks!! My name is Jim Gettler. I am in the military (USAF... HOO-RAH!!), and currently stationed at Hanscom AFB in Massachusetts. I own a 1993 MR2 that is pearl white. It is the non-turbo version and it is an automatic. I am not very good at working with cars but the reason that I joined this list was to get some ideas for more performance out of my car. I have the 2.2L inline 4, and she has some get-up-and-go now as it is. Another words, I want to get this car 'race ready', if you know what I mean. Any suggestions, ideas, improvements, and other ways to get her 'race ready' would be appreciated. My E-mail for direct mailing is as follows: gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil I'll be hoping to hear from some of you!! Jim Gettler 1993 White Automatic MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Todd.A.Campbell@mro01.usace.army.mil Date: 05 Jun 1996 14:39:10 Z To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Return requested) (Receipt notification requested) Name : Todd Campbell Location : Omaha,Ne Model : 1987 MR2 Engine : 4AGE ( ?) Mods : nore Email : Todd.A.Campbell@usace.army.mil My MR2 has about 106K miles and I am starting to see the first signs of needed an engine re-build ( smoke out of the pipe ) I think I am going to need new rings etc... Is there a place I can get a "piston kit" or "big bore kit" or something like that ? Anybody have any idea what this is going to cost me if I use my local mechanic ? I have exoerience in rebuilding motorcycle engines ( Kawasaki's ZX's) how tough would this job be if I did it myself ? Thanks !!! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 22:23:12 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Air Filter Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com As promised I did some testing today with the stock air box and the stock paper filter plus the input pipe to the air box without the buffer box which sits on the fire wall and is connected to the air input pipe going into the air filter box. I capped this outlet. The pipe leading air from the side vent into the filter box is of rather small diameter. This easily could be made larger. The overall impression was very good. I found the engine very responsive and noticed a fast play on the fuel/air ratio meter resulting into a perfect reading (14.7:1) of larger periods of time versus a lazier response with the K&N cone filter. With the K&N cone filter the meter was stuck to the rich reading more time in average. It seems that the stock air system produces a more balanced air input and probably runs more economical on the gas. At boost, I have noticed no difference on the low scale readings, and a 0.05 difference on the high scale. The stock system will go up to 1.05 bar where the K&N cone filter will go up to 1.1 bar. Frankly speaking I have not noticed any difference but I want to add that the stock unit produces more uniform power. I am preparing a tube of about 1 cm larger diameter than the large (base) diameter of the cone filter with a cap at the base (where the rubber joint is) and a centering flange with large openings (98%) on the other end, where this tube will also protrude about 2...3 cm thus coming very close to the side vent. It is the long 9" cone type which comes almost to the vent if connected directly to the rubber bent tube leading to the turbo. This alu tube will prohibit the engine air getting into the cone filter and allow air only from the far end to get in. I will also rivet two brackets for mounting properly. If the project is successful I will post a drawing. Some additional notes: I have at hand both the stock air filter and a K&N exact replacement. I think someone is playing tricks with us . The stock filter is a kind of paper, special, but the folds are TWICE the size of the K&N wire mesh folds. This is obvious from the thickness of the filters. This means that the K&N filter has half the area of active surface than the stock paper one. So if the K&N is even twice as good it ends up to a straight match with the stock one. (The stock costs one fifth the price of the K&N). With the above info I question myself and you all, is it worth to get the K&N??????????? I will do some comparison driving this weekend to find out first hand who fools whom. We call this learning the hard way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Input air temperature To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 01:36:08 +0300 (EET DST) Funny, everybody seems to be measuring these now... keep up the good work! I attached today a temperature sensor to my K&N cone, located behind the left headlights but stil 70% inside the engine bay (We cut a hole for it). This is the exhaust side... where plastic melts when placed too close to the turbo. Anyway, to my joy I saw that the intake temperature was the same as the outside temperature (at least within 1C), if I was moving over 40km/h. After prolonged idling with hot engine while stopped, the air starts to heat up. After two minutes, the intake air was 11C hotter than ambient. So I probably won't bother with a real cold air box, an electric fan to replace the tired viscous one would be of much more help (to the engine cooling too). We've also measured the intake air temperature with an Alfa GTV, twin sidedrafts. The tempereatures stay 14C higher than ambient even at 80km/h!!! After idling for a minute or so, the air may be heated over 30C above ambient, and typical city driving is usually between 16-20C above ambient. Needless to say, somebody wants a cold air box ;) I also tried to test the effectiviness of Thermo-tec insulating tape. I need to find another sensor to give you any accurate numbers, but it helps A LOT!!! That is, about 40-60C. I wrapped the intake piping that goes over the exhaust manifold with it, as well as the oil lines. Temperatures in this area are around 100C. The intake pipes were too hot to touch after driving more than 10 minutes, now they are no hotter than my body temperature (then again, caught the flu...). -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 09:28:04 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Return of undelivered mail On Wed, 5 Jun 1996, Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: > Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an > undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a > notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. I usually allow one week for any addresses that bounce in case it is a site problem. After that I manually delete them...and then try and contact them for a further period of one week. If a site is off the air for two weeks things are usually not looking good :) Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 20:30:06 -0500 To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ), From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Return of undelivered mail >Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an >undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a >notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. > >Since it has become very annoying could something be done about this??? >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. >ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS >Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr Just one? Heck, I must get 20. :) Isn't there any cleanup on this? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Thu, 06 Jun 96 07:25:56 CST To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re[2]: Return of undelivered mail Sorry! The administrator changed my email address without telling me. I have unsubscribed using my old address and re subscribed with the new. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Return of undelivered mail Author: Paul Pyyvaara at INTERNET-HUB Date: 6/5/96 6:46 PM On Wed, 5 Jun 1996, Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: > Whenever I post to : toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I receive an > undelivered mail message with copy of my original, from ccMailSMTPLINK and a > notification that User Charls Flick at hsc-ya is not defined. I usually allow one week for any addresses that bounce in case it is a site problem. After that I manually delete them...and then try and contact them for a further period of one week. If a site is off the air for two weeks things are usually not looking good :) Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 15:46:31 +0200 To: Lance Heinrich From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Air Filter Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Kostas, > >How are you connecting the cone filter? I am assuming that you are using >the stock meter and it sounds like you have the stock rubber piece that >goes to the turbo still there. Did you make up your own adapter (or had >it custom fabricated for your application) or do you have one of the >aftermarket "packages"? If the latter, did it just come with an adapter >or a different kind of meter? OK I have installed sometime ago the HKS VPC system so I have no stock meter on the air filter box. Before that I had purchased the HKS mush room filter kit. They then provided me with an adapter which has a round and a square end, so one can connect the stock meter to the mushroom filter. I turned this adapter around and connected the rectangular end to the rectangular output hole of the AFB (air filter box) without the meter. To the other round end fits a rubber pipe which with a thin alu transition on the other end fits to the 90 deg rubber bend going into the turbo. There is a limitation to the rectangular hole on the AFB and I plan to open a larger hole there and mount some other adapter. The AFB has another opening at its side connecting to a pipe bringing air from the vent in. This is also small but can be easily enlarged and the pipe replaced with a corrugated alu one. > >Sounds like you are going through the exact same procedures that I will >be going through (only you're a step ahead of me :-) And it sounds like >you are better equipped to do some more scientific research into this >than I do (ie. you can look at the fuel mixture, etc. which I can't). > >Area of filtering material is greater on the stock filter, but not area >through which air is actually taken in, that's still just l X w (I don't >have the dimensions handy)... just a thought. I don't agree with you there. The surface of the stock paper filter is larger than the K&N area of their wire filter. Since both are restricting elements to the flow of air, ALL of the surface accounts for the restriction. The larger the area the less the restriction. If your theory was correct then the filter area would not be larger than the diameter of the feeding pipes. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 12:45:02 -0400 From: Stephen Waddell To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Turbo-Enhancements What would be the best way to modify a 95 Supra Turbo without going to overboard in price? I am thinking of modifying my car, but don't know what the best route would be. Can you e-mail me back with some suggestions. Thanks xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 14:52:53 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Re: Air Filter At 03:46 PM 6/6/96 +0200, Kostas wrote: >I don't agree with you there. The surface of the stock paper filter is >larger than the K&N area of their wire filter. Since both are restricting >elements to the flow of air, ALL of the surface accounts for the >restriction. The larger the area the less the restriction. If your theory >was correct then the filter area would not be larger than the diameter of >the feeding pipes. >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. I think I'll have to disagree with you Kostas! Even though the stock paper filter has more pleats when compared to the oiled-cloth K&N unit, I believe that the paper will restrict air more, because there is more filtering material in the same amount of space. I guess you can look at it this way. Take a pipe and cover it with one layer of sock or pantyhose, some sort of filtering material and measure the flow. Now take that same filtering material, and fold it up and then stick it in the same tube. Measure the flow. I think you'll agree with me that the second filter will flow less air than the first, although filtering more junk. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 06:24:39 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Woody Warmoth Subject: 85 Toyota Celica parts I have some 85 Celica GTS Coupe parts for sale. .. recaro style bucket seats w/drivers lumbar pump. $60. pair. .. P/S complete with rack/pinion. $50. .. A/C complete with heaterbox and dash controls. $80. .. Front rotors with calipers. $30. pair. .. factory AM/FM/Cassette with dolby equalizer $50. .. lower body moldings. $10. each .. rear panel with taillights and bumper. $50. .. doors with p/w p/l (rh glass broken) $80. pair. .. jack kit w/tools $10. plus many other small parts. Since I am not a regular member of this list, please contact me directly. Woody Warmoth (email: woodyw@worldnet.att.net) Oregon City, Oregon -- phone (503)631-2776 after 6 PM Pacific Time xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 17:20:58 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Quaife differentials Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I am posting this info as I have noticed some interest in Quaife differentials. The Company is: R.T.Quaife Engineering Limited The address is: Vestry Road, Otford Sevenoaks, Kent TN14 5EL, England Tel: (0)1732 741144 Fax: (0) 1732 741555 Ask for Andy. I was told that there is a very limited no. of differentials still available. The price is around 422 Br.P. Interesting I was told they have two models for the MR2. A large one (for the E153 transaxle) and a smaller one which could be for the NA model. Andy could not confirm this when we talked. For those interested the above differentials are highly recommended. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 10:47:52 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Re: Air Filter Dave wrote: > >I think I'll have to disagree with you Kostas! Even though the stock paper >filter has more pleats when compared to the oiled-cloth K&N unit, I believe >that the paper will restrict air more, because there is more filtering >material in the same amount of space. I guess you can look at it this way. >Take a pipe and cover it with one layer of sock or pantyhose, some sort of >filtering material and measure the flow. Now take that same filtering >material, and fold it up and then stick it in the same tube. Measure the >flow. I think you'll agree with me that the second filter will flow less >air than the first, although filtering more junk. What Dave says is true for the example he gives, but is not the same as the pleated elements of the paper filters. Think of the pores of the filter as little pipes. We'll all agree that two pipes alongside each other (in parallel) will flow twice as much as a single pipe for the same pressure drop, but if we connect the two pipes end-to-end (in series) they'll flow less than the shorter length of one pipe. Kostas states correctly that the pleated paper filter has more pores in parallel because of its larger surface area, and can thus compensate for its smaller pore size in comparison to the K&N, which has smaller surface area. In Dave's example of folding the filter material in half or more, the pores are in series. Similarly, if you pleated a filter to the extreme degree that the flow resistance for air escaping from between the pleats was comparable to the resistance to flowing through the filter medium, the effects of increased surface area would be negated. The extreme case would be folding the filter up into such a tight accordion that it was effectively a single thick piece of paper, in which case Dave's analysis would apply and we'd have a very clean but very restrictive filter. If the pleat-to-pleat distance is comparable to the pleat depth, I'd be pretty sure we're nowhere near this regime, though it might be interesting for someone with more experience in flow calculations to give us some idea of what the pleating limit would be for typical paper, oiled foam, or oiled gauze filters. -Mike Leary 87 Toyota Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 16:38:18 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 2-TG Parts Needed Desperately... Awwww... I sorta in desperate need of at least 1 2TG thermostat housing. Willing to pay for shipping etc etc and all that other junk... even if its used thats fine as long as it has a chance of werking decently =) Many thanks... -Allen T Koji Kam koji@i-one.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:57:04 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to the EFI system? Thanks in advance. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint (aka Lotus 7) 20 Valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 15:14:59 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: SPEED SENSOR/GEARBOX RATIOS Here's another one for you good people. My kit car has a magnetic pickup bonded to the driveshaft that pulses the EFI computer, connected to the speed sensor input. I had this installed when I first built the car, cos I was getting an error light coming up on the EFI system. The speed sensor is normally part of the speedo, but I don't run any of the Toyota instruments. The system I have works fine (doesn't give any error signals)(once I managed to stop the magnet flying off the driveshaft!)but cuts the motor out at about 115 mph. This equates to about 6800 in fifth gear, so the drive shaft is doing about 7900 rpm(love that 4.44:1 diff)(assuming .86:1 fifth gear). The engine definately cuts out on speed 'cos it will happily run at 7500 through the gears, and is supposed to rev limit at 8000, although I don't take it that high. It seems weird that the Japanese cars, which are limited to 180 kph via the speedo, and mine with a sensor on the driveshaft, cut out at the same speed. Surely the speedo drive from the gearbox is geared dowm? Any ideas how to unleash the final 5 mph or so I believe is in the car, whilst still running the EFI diagnotsic circuit? PS - Anyone know the ratios in a 1983 AE 86 16 Valve Corolla t-50 alloy case gearbox? Thanks in advance Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint (just like a Lotus 7, only cheaper) 20 valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 23:52:27 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: Phil Bradshaw Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Maybe to turn off cruise control when you hit the brakes? just a guess. Phil Bradshaw wrote: > > Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the > connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model > Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes > it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to > the EFI system? > > Thanks in advance. > > Phil Bradshaw > Palmerston North > New Zealand > Leitch Supersprint (aka Lotus 7) 20 Valve 4AGE -- Home Page: http://www.webbuild.com/~toy4two/ Work: http://www.imonics.com/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 11:00:02 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Stock versus K&N air filter Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Today I made the comparison test and my fears were confirmed. Given the stock air filter box without any modifications except the removal of the air flow/temp meter unit, in fourth gear full throttle the stock paper filter would read slightly over one bar (about the width of the indicator pointer over the mark say 1.03 Bar) where with the K&N filter under same conditions and at the same length of the street the meter registered under one bar, exactly the width of the indicator pointer, say 0.97 Bar. IMHO the stock paper filter is better in performance, cheaper, cleaner for the engine and less fussy (no wash, oil etc, just throw away.) Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: SPEED SENSOR/GEARBOX RATIOS To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 12:42:13 +0300 (EET DST) > PS - Anyone know the ratios in a 1983 AE 86 16 Valve Corolla t-50 alloy case > gearbox? Not 100% sure, but these ratios were correct for 1982 and 1986 T50's: reverse -3.484 I 3.587 II 2.022 III 1.384 IV 1 V 0.861 -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 09:05:36 -0500 To: Mark Sink From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Wouldn't that go to the cruise computer? Or from the brake pedal, to the EFI computer to the cruise computer? Steve B. >Maybe to turn off cruise control when you hit the brakes? > >just a guess. > >Phil Bradshaw wrote: >> >> Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the >> connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model >> Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes >> it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to >> the EFI system? >> >> Thanks in advance. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 16:24:42 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Jason McDonald Subject: Re: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT Maybe it cuts out the injectors during breaking? For emmisions? Just a really wild guess. Jason McDonald At 02:57 PM 6/8/96 +1200, you wrote: >Okay people. Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the >connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model >Toyotas? My 20 Valve has this, so that when you put your foot on the brakes >it sends a sgnal to the computer. Does anyone know what exactly it does to >the EFI system? > >Thanks in advance. > >Phil Bradshaw >Palmerston North >New Zealand >Leitch Supersprint (aka Lotus 7) 20 Valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 18:21:07 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: David Rees Subject: Re: Stock versus K&N air filter Since I'm not familiar with Turbo'd Cars, There is one thing to consider. Where do they locate the pressure sensor? Before or after the air filter? ( I know that measuring after makes more sense... but gotta make sure! ) > >Dave > >At 11:00 AM 6/8/96 +0200, Kostas wrote: >>Today I made the comparison test and my fears were confirmed. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 12:06:42 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Air Filters...more Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Looking into the K&N catalogue, page 3 Air Filter Facts, at the left bottom side of this page I see grafs about the air flow of various filters. It seems that they selected a foam, a used K&N (after 42000 miles but they don't mention if it has been recently cleaned and oiled or not), a paper and a new K&N filter all I understand of same filter area size and tested the air flow in CFM. The results as published in this K&N catalogue: FOAM (Amsoil LT-31; Unifilter 04-0031 ) 375 Used K&N (Used 42000 miles K&N E-1500 ) 460 PAPER (AC A348C;Fram CA326;Hastings AC-145;K-Mart KA-12;Motorcraft FA-71R ) 515 New K&N (K&N E-1500) 875 What do we see there ?????????Paper to new K&N ratio is 1.6 to 1.0 In other words if a paper filter is 1.6 times the area of a K&N filter they have, in accordance to the their measurements, the same air flow. Given the MR2 stock paper air filter is twice the area of the replacement K&N one then the K&N filter's airflow is 20 percent LESS than the stock paper one. " The more I dig the more I learn" Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 14:09:51 +0200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: delivery errors Could the following address be "taken care" so as not to receive undelivered mail returns. hank@alive.toho.co.jp Thanks, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 08:06:00 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Fred Miranda Subject: Re: Air Filters...more Kostas It's beginning to look like you will read into any data you get whatever it takes to further your K&N bashing. Your boost test wasn't apples vs apples. There were at least 2 variables there, the filters and the air temp. I suspect the higher air temp more than made up for the better flow the K&N provided. If you have the means why not do a test between stock and replacement K&N but instead of measuring boost, measure the vacuum created after the filter. The wastgate will make up for a slight vacuum by spinning the wheels faster, thus maintaining boost at the cost of increased backpressure. Fred >The results as published in this K&N catalogue: > >FOAM (Amsoil LT-31; Unifilter 04-0031 ) >375 >Used K&N (Used 42000 miles K&N E-1500 ) >460 >PAPER (AC A348C;Fram CA326;Hastings AC-145;K-Mart KA-12;Motorcraft FA-71R ) >515 >New K&N (K&N E-1500) >875 > >What do we see there ?????????Paper to new K&N ratio is 1.6 to 1.0 > >In other words if a paper filter is 1.6 times the area of a K&N filter they >have, in accordance to the their measurements, the same air flow. > >Given the MR2 stock paper air filter is twice the area of the replacement >K&N one then the K&N filter's airflow is 20 percent LESS than the stock >paper one. > >" The more I dig the more I learn" > >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. >ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS >Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Introduction / Is you rear wheel supposed to fall off? To: yadde@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Yosef Adde) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 02:36:42 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > This is my first time writing in, so I'd like to introduce myself. I have an '88 > Supra Turbo with an HKS turbo timer and sound system consisting of Alpine and > Phoenix Gold. I bought the car about 4 months ago, and had a new turbo installed. > > Anyhow, I've been reading mail here the last few days, but unfortunately I finally > have a problem with my car. I was driving on the highway, when I passed someone, and > sombody else, alot slower, suddenly is in my face. I fishtailed until my rear right > wheel colapesed on itself and i went into a cement way and spun around. Luckily > everyone was fine, and I was able to manuever the car with 3 wheels so I didn't hit > anyone, but was the wheel supposed to just come off like that? Mind you that there's > a lot of force put onto a wheel in a fishtail going aprox. 120 km/h, but come on... > anyhow, it's an insurance matter now. > > By the way, do you poeple think the car will drive the way it did before? Any > comments on what I should make sure is done? Hell no that kind of thing shouldn't happen! There must have been something really wrong with the suspension before you spun. Maybe the previous owner had crashed it and made a half-ass repair. Many of us, well at least some of us, throw our cars sideways almost daily, in purpose, and our alignments stay spot on. They should check all suspension components and then the alignment. If they do a good job, there is no reason why it wouldn't drive like it did, maybe even better as there had to be something wrong to begin with. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 14:06:11 +1200 (NZST) To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: Cam timing and TRD head mods Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:25:45 +1000 X-Sender: bilzilla@mail.zeta.org.au From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: 4age 12:1 pistons & cam timing >Can any one provide me with the standard cam timing for the small port 4age >engine? > Yup, it's - inlet opens 8 BTDC, closes 44 ABDC, exhaust opens 47 BBDC, closes 5 ATDC. (That's according to the info I have) A friend of mine who seems to know what he is doing and has both an early model blue top engine and a late model red top engine that he uses in his Lotus 7 replica. He has measured the standard cam timing on the early engine and thinks the above is for this engine. The later model standard cams out of his red top engine have approximately 10 degrees more duration. However he is not sure what the timing should be as he did not mesure the timing before modifying his cams. So we still do not know what this timing should be. If anyone knows please let me know. Caution: It may be that CAMs in the engines we import from wrecked Japanese cars are different from engines in Australia or Japan. It may also be that the Cam timing and duration changed during the life of the red top engines. It would be interesting to know if putting the later model cams into an earlier TVIS head is a good mod for someone on a very tight budget. Bill I have also now got the factory head modification diagrams for the group A cars. These are currently with my heads at the cylinder head shop. I will send you copies when I get these back. If anyone else wants these please let me know. regards Liam. Bill, Thanks for the tip on using the beer for measuring the compression ratio! This has to rate as the most technically enlightened approach I have come across. I don't know why it is not in mentioned in more racing manuals! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 14:06:20 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: SPEED SENSOR/GEARBOX RATIOS At 03:14 PM 8/06/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >Here's another one for you good people. My kit car has a magnetic pickup >bonded to the driveshaft that pulses the EFI computer, connected to the >speed sensor input. I had this installed when I first built the car, cos I >was getting an error light coming up on the EFI system. The speed sensor is >normally part of the speedo, but I don't run any of the Toyota instruments. >The system I have works fine (doesn't give any error signals)(once I managed >to stop the magnet flying off the driveshaft!)but cuts the motor out at >about 115 mph. This equates to about 6800 in fifth gear, so the drive shaft >is doing about 7900 rpm(love that 4.44:1 diff)(assuming .86:1 fifth gear). >The engine definately cuts out on speed 'cos it will happily run at 7500 >through the gears, and is supposed to rev limit at 8000, although I don't >take it that high. It seems weird that the Japanese cars, which are limited >to 180 kph via the speedo, and mine with a sensor on the driveshaft, cut out >at the same speed. Surely the speedo drive from the gearbox is geared dowm? >Any ideas how to unleash the final 5 mph or so I believe is in the car, >whilst still running the EFI diagnotsic circuit? > >PS - Anyone know the ratios in a 1983 AE 86 16 Valve Corolla t-50 alloy case >gearbox? Yep, I think these are in my toyota Performance handbook. I will send them tomorrow. > >Thanks in advance > >Phil Bradshaw >Palmerston North >New Zealand >Leitch Supersprint (just like a Lotus 7, only cheaper) 20 valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Engine woes Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 19:02:12 -0400 From: Kevin Scaldeferri Well, the engine in my 88 Celica has finally gone, and I'm left with a variety of options, none of them cheap. One of the options is, of course, to put a new engine in the car, and here's where I'm looking for some advice from the list. It'll cost somewhere around $3000 to replace the engine, a significant fraction of the book value of the car. Has anyone else gone this route? In retrospect, was it a good choice or not? The rest of the car is in great condition, so I'd imagine it would keep going for quite sometime. All the other options involve getting rid of the car and buying someting else, be it a new car, used car, or motorcycle. So the other question here is, how much would the car be worth with the engine like it is. I'm sure that someone with the time a knowledge to rebuild it could do that for much less than the cost of a new engine. But I'm not sure what's a fair price. Any advice here? (In fact, does anyone want to buy an 88 Celica GTS, in great shape except for a blown engine?) Aargh. Thanks Kevin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: EGT measurements etc To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list), Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 02:08:37 +0300 (EET DST) Hiya all, a few notes from the battle against inadequate fuel pumps and crappy regulators... I installed the adjustable regulator with the original one in series, and I did get better pressure compensation, though only 80%. I was not able to get more than 4 bar peak pressure during WOT driving. Not enough, but a very slight improvement -> adequate for ~215hp. Of course, the oxygen sensor had to quit when I was trying to adjust in the mixture :( So I dialed the mixture pretty rich, just to be safe. This resulted in lots of banging in the exhaust during engine braking at low rpms... I rather like that, actually ;) Today I removed the oxygen sensor to fix the connection (the wire was cut from the sensor), and decided to temporarily install my exhaust gas temperature meter in its place. Results: granpa-mode around town (50km/h, no boost while accelerating): 700F idle: cools down from 700F to 400F. Cruising at 100km/h about 1000F WOT, 0-210km/h, rises to 1200F @ 160km/h, 1300F @ 180km/h, 1350F @ 195km/h, not really rising after that. This is about 20cm after turbine outlet. Of course, some 2 km after I had done that ~210km/h run (limit: 80), I saw this cop car coming from the other direction ;) Cornering at these speeds really reminds me that I need stiffer springs (body rolllll), otherwise it's stable. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 17:10:52 -0700 From: Yosef Adde To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Introduction / Is you rear wheel supposed to fall off? This is my first time writing in, so I'd like to introduce myself. I have an '88 Supra Turbo with an HKS turbo timer and sound system consisting of Alpine and Phoenix Gold. I bought the car about 4 months ago, and had a new turbo installed. Anyhow, I've been reading mail here the last few days, but unfortunately I finally have a problem with my car. I was driving on the highway, when I passed someone, and sombody else, alot slower, suddenly is in my face. I fishtailed until my rear right wheel colapesed on itself and i went into a cement way and spun around. Luckily everyone was fine, and I was able to manuever the car with 3 wheels so I didn't hit anyone, but was the wheel supposed to just come off like that? Mind you that there's a lot of force put onto a wheel in a fishtail going aprox. 120 km/h, but come on... anyhow, it's an insurance matter now. By the way, do you poeple think the car will drive the way it did before? Any comments on what I should make sure is done? Thanks, Yosef Adde xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 19:55:02 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Fred Miranda Subject: Re: EGT measurements etc Matti What kind of EGT gauge are you using? I have a VDO on my 323GTX. At cruise on fwy it runs 11-1200 and might hit 1400 on a long pull under boost (15-17psi@ 12/1afr). This is BEFORE the turbo. Seems kinda low doesn't it. A friend with a Supra (2nd gen + turbo added) has the same gauge and sees similar temps. Any comments? Fred >granpa-mode around town (50km/h, no boost while accelerating): 700F >idle: cools down from 700F to 400F. >Cruising at 100km/h about 1000F >WOT, 0-210km/h, rises to 1200F @ 160km/h, 1300F @ 180km/h, 1350F @ 195km/h, >not really rising after that. > >This is about 20cm after turbine outlet. > >Of course, some 2 km after I had done that ~210km/h run (limit: 80), I saw >this cop car coming from the other direction ;) >Cornering at these speeds really reminds me that I need stiffer >springs (body rolllll), otherwise it's stable. > >-- >Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 >k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... >A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 23:13:05 -0700 From: Gary & Mary Jones To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Gary Jones 2321 Sundrop Ct. Fort Worth, Texas 76108 1983 Celica/Supra Production date 1-1-83 Engine: 5M-GE Howdy I am a father of three, 2 daughters, ages 2 and 4 and a son, 20, Lance Corporal Micah Jones USMC. I am a master electrican employed by the city of FT. Worth for 20 years. In March I purchased a rust colored Celica/Supra with analog gages, automatic transmission, and 108,000 miles. It is almost all original (no modifications) YET. I have already resealed cam towers, replaced the timing belt, (due to the oil leaks on the timing belt), replaced all the radiator and heater hoses, thermastat, radiator cap, and had the radiator rodded out. I am in the process of having the factory radio and equalizer repaired. The next two priorites are changing the muffler (looks like something off a Pinto) and the Monroe rear shocks (they rattle! all the time) If you would like to know more ask, I have several comments! Our other car is a gold 1991 Previa LE with 126,000 miles, with new Toyota rear shocks after 6,000 miles on a set of Monroe's (several comments)! Let me say "HOWDY" and "THANK YOU ALL." Gary Jones email jones@flash.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: gary & mary jones Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 11 Jun 96 8:48:26 Subject: Electrical puzzle Welcome to the list Gary! Looks like you have a good project car in your hands.... enjoy. Since you're an electrician by trade, I thought I'd throw a question (puzzle) your way hoping you could provide an answer. One of the mods that I'm planning to do is to get the signal lights in my car to flash 'alternately'. (eg. The light on the bumper is on, while the light on the fender is off -- then it switches, bumper off - fender on). I've seen it on some late model GMs -- similar to how the headlights on US cop cars alternate when their sirens are blaring..... How do you get a circuit to flip-flop like that? Also another thing I noticed on the GMs is that both lights (fender and bumper) are on when the park lights are on.... BTW, the bulbs on the turn signals on my car are the single-filament type. Its been puzzling me for some time now. I'd appreciate any ideas. (BTW, anybody on the list -- feel free to jump in...) Thanks, John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: jones @ flash.net (Gary & Mary Jones) @ internet Date: 06/10/96 11:13 PM Subject: me/mine/mods ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Gary Jones 2321 Sundrop Ct. Fort Worth, Texas 76108 1983 Celica/Supra Production date 1-1-83 Engine: 5M-GE Howdy I am a father of three, 2 daughters, ages 2 and 4 and a son, 20, Lance Corporal Micah Jones USMC. I am a master electrican employed by the city of FT. Worth for 20 years. In March I purchased a rust colored Celica/Supra with analog gages, automatic transmission, and 108,000 miles. It is almost all original (no modifications) YET. Let me say "HOWDY" and "THANK YOU ALL." Gary Jones email jones@flash.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 11 Jun 96 11:38:17 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT To the list, For what its worth the early AE-86 and AE-82's with 4AG's all have idle up circuits that come on when you out your foot on the brakes, turn on the fan or the headlights. This also works for 15 seconds on starting. Its a great feature when you have a light flywheel, turn on the fan and the idle goes from 1000 to 1400! I have also read the K&N debate and feel that we are missing something. In a recent article here a Swift GTI was tested with a large number of filters including 4 K@N's. Almost all filters outflowed the standard but the Dyno showed less than 1KW over standard. Both airbox and pod type were tested. The advatage of the K@N is that they are small for th e capacity and can be placed in spots the paper ones cannot. On the Aus AE-86 the mid size K@N's can be placed behind the front right headlight were the cold air flows, or can actually be put between the radiator support panel and the front grill. The colder air DOES make a difference,you can feel it, the outright flow does not,all seem to have more than enough. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 13:38:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" > Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the > connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model > Toyotas? On my 85 MR2, there is a valve that allows additional air into the intake to increase the idle speed. The valve is opened when the headlights, fan, or brake lights are turned on. I presume that this is to compensate for the additional load from the alternator which will reduce the engine idle speed. There is a second (larger) valve that opens when the AC compressor is activated (high load). This type of compensation is open loop (no feedback). On the newer engines, I would guess that they are using an "idle speed control" in a closed loop mode, so that the idle speed is maintained under widely varying alternator and AC compressor loads. So maybe the input to the EFI computer is additional info for this compensation function. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:52:14 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 20 valve info G'day All, I have retrieved my 20 valve manual etc from my friend up north, so here's some info you may find usesful. First, I doubt you can put the 20 vavle head on a 16 valve block because the manual clearly shows the pistons are machined away to clear the 5 valves. (ok, so you can always machine your pistons). Performance wise, the 1995 figures (which I think are unchanged from earlier ones) are 165 ps @ 7800 rpm max power, and 16.5 kg-m@ 5600rpm. 1587cc, 81x77mm bore/stroke. This compares to the 4AFE with 115 ps @ 6000 rpm and 15 kg-m @ 4800. The 20 valve rev counter reads to 9000rpm and turns red at 8000. Speedo only reads to 180 kph. AE 111 Trueno gearbox ratios: 1: 3.166 2: 1.904 3: 1.392 4: 1.031 5: 0.815 R: 3.250 Diff: 4.312 The engine manual pictures are not that revealing, please e-mail me if you want me to try to scan them. Hope this is of use. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 13:59:01 -0700 From: "Ed A. Craft" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Upgrades Well hello everyone, I purchased a 91 MR2 late last year and have been considering doing some modifications (mainly engine and suspension). I recently put 215/40/16 BFGoodrich all the way around and now I'm thinking about getting the factory chip for it. I was told that it increases the hp by about 15-20 which I think would be a bonus. I'm assuming I'm not the first to think of this so for those of you that have made that investment, how did it work??? I would eventually like to do other minor enhancments but wouldn't really know where to start. If anyone has some suggestions of some inexpensive engine modifications that add to the cars performance, by all means, do share... Lastly, I want to upgrade the suspension...enough said. Granted, I don't have the funds to do all this work this weekend, hopefully I can have alot of ideas to implement before summers end. Thanks for the ear.... Ed Craft xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 18:29:37 -0400 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: EFI CONNECTION TO BRAKE LIGHT > Here's one for you. What is the exact function of the > connection between the brake lights and the EFI computer on late model > Toyotas? On Supras with TEMS, the brake light is used as an input to the TEMS suspension computer. Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 22:44:01 -0500 (EST) From: "Jonathan B. Hacker (Supra Account)" To: toyota-mods Subject: Re: Electrical puzzle > One of the mods that I'm planning to do is to get the signal lights in my car > to flash 'alternately'. (eg. The light on the bumper is on, while the light > on the fender is off -- then it switches, bumper off - fender on). I've seen > it on some late model GMs -- similar to how the headlights on US cop cars > alternate when their sirens are blaring..... > > How do you get a circuit to flip-flop like that? Also another thing I noticed > on the GMs is that both lights (fender and bumper) are on when the park lights > are on.... BTW, the bulbs on the turn signals on my car are the > single-filament type. Here's a horrible ASCII art wiring diagram that should explain how its done. The trick is to have the flasher relay alternately connect the circuit between ground and 12V. When the relay contacts are grounded, the side marker light is on, and when the relay connects to 12V the turn signal lamp is on. To keep both off (idle position) the relay contact is parked in the middle. The only real trick is to get a flasher relay that behaves this way like the GM ones. Jon Hacker 90 Supra Turbo gnd 12V | | o o----------+ <-> / | flasher / -- relay o 8 side marker bulb | -- | | +-------------+ | -- 8 front turn signal bulb -- | gnd xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:36:33 -0700 From: "Ed A. Craft" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: eac1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Upgrades Well hello everyone, I purchased a 91 MR2 late last year and have been considering doing some modifications (mainly engine and suspension). I recently put 215/40/16 BFGoodrich all the way around and now I'm thinking about getting the factory chip for it. I was told that it increases the hp by about 15-20 which I think would be a bonus. I'm assuming I'm not the first to think of this so for those of you that have made that investment, how did it work??? I would eventually like to do other minor enhancments but wouldn't really know where to start. If anyone has some suggestions of some inexpensive engine modifications that add to the cars performance, by all means, do share... Lastly, I want to upgrade the suspension...enough said. Granted, I don't have the funds to do all this work this weekend, hopefully I can have alot of ideas to implement before summers end. Thanks for the ear.... Ed Craft xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 12 Jun 96 11:51:49 EDT From: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@compuserve.com> To: "Steve B." Cc: Geoff , Subject: Pulleys and Tensioners?? Hello all, I have not had any luck with my car over the past few months.... I have been hearing a vibrating noise from the engine copartment at 1500-2000 rpm and it came and went. Finally about a week agon the noise got LOUD. I took it into the shop and told the mechanic (my uncle) that it sounded like it was coming from under the timing belt cover. No such luck. He told me that it was coming from under the valve cover or somewhere else inside the engine. It turns out that after about 5 hours of exploratory surgery on my baby that "some pulleys and a tensioner" are bad and that it was a good thing that I got it in to him when I did, or it could have been really bad. Has anyone else out there had anything even remotely similar happen to them?? Any insight would help. What the hell are the pulleys and tensioner?? I don't have a supercharger. Later, Larry S. 91' MR2 Turbo MisterTwo@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 10:36:05 -0700 To: "Lawrence M. Saccone Jr." <103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>, From: David Rees Subject: Re: Pulleys and Tensioners?? At 11:51 AM 6/12/96 EDT, you wrote: >It turns out that after about 5 hours of exploratory surgery on my >baby that "some pulleys and a tensioner" are bad and that it was >a good thing that I got it in to him when I did, or it could have been >really bad. It sounds likt the pulley and tensioner for the timing belt. Good thing you caught it before the timing belt slipped! Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:15:05 -0700 From: "Ed A. Craft" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Pulleys and Tensioners?? Lawrence M. Saccone Jr. wrote: > > Hello all, > I have not had any luck with my car over the past few months.... > I have been hearing a vibrating noise from the engine copartment > at 1500-2000 rpm and it came and went. Finally about a week > agon the noise got LOUD. I took it into the shop and told the > mechanic (my uncle) that it sounded like it was coming from under > the timing belt cover. No such luck. He told me that it was coming > from under the valve cover or somewhere else inside the engine. > It turns out that after about 5 hours of exploratory surgery on my > baby that "some pulleys and a tensioner" are bad and that it was > a good thing that I got it in to him when I did, or it could have been > really bad. Has anyone else out there had anything even remotely > similar happen to them?? Any insight would help. What the hell are > the pulleys and tensioner?? I don't have a supercharger. > Later, > Larry S. > 91' MR2 Turbo > MisterTwo@aol.com I am also having a simalar problem right now. I think the term would be rattle more than vibrate, but any ways I narrowed it down to 2250 rpm and really constant. It normally seems to happen during acceleration for a brief instant, then goes away. What it really sounds like is a bracket of some sort that has rattled loose and is banging against my exhaust. Also, I never seem to have the problem when the car is warmed up. (wierd) If what you are discribing is in fact the problem I'm having, what did it take to repair it? Did you just tighten some things up or were new parts needed? Thanx, Ed Craft bone stock 91' non Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 15:27:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: my header experience... To: Toyota Mods > The bottom line is that, although I definitely *feel* as though I have > a bit more power (and perhaps that's what counts most), on balance > I regret doing this. > > -Adam > well .. you could always take it off and sell it. I might need one for my SC MR2 race car once i do things like cams and computer ... is that right Liam? I get the feeling that headers are usually only required after you seriously work the engine. Any comments? Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '87 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 15:30:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: SPEED SENSOR/GEARBOX RATIOS To: Toyota Mods > Phil Bradshaw > Palmerston North > New Zealand > Leitch Supersprint (just like a Lotus 7, only cheaper) 20 valve 4AGE what about .... "and faster" Ade : ) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:20:50 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 195/60 x 14 tyres OK - Plan B! I can get a set of 5.5 x 14" 2nd hand but unused steel rims real cheap ($100 NZ for 5), so I can go to 195/60 tyres. I've had Yokohama AVS and Dunlop D60s suggested. The Dunlops are considerably cheaper than the Yokohamas. The tyre must last reasonably well - I do about 15,000 miles/year. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks. Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (Just like a Lotus 7 but with no grip...) Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Adrienne Mora Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: my header experience... Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:20:42 -0400 From: Adam Grove > > well .. you could always take it off and sell it. I might need one for my > SC MR2 race car once i do things like cams and computer ... is that right > Liam? I get the feeling that headers are usually only required after you > seriously work the engine. > > Any comments? > I'm *still* boiling clutch fluid enough so that, on a hot day, I can't drive more than 20 minutes at a time. This is after changing to fresh DOT 4 fluid and wrapping some thermal tape around the clutch lines. I'm also going deaf surprisingly quickly. On the +ve side, I'm more confident in saying that there really is more useful power available (even with rest of engine still stock). It's quite likely I'll be looking to sell this in a month or so unless I can fix the above problems. I'll send you a message if so. -Adam (a fellow kiwi, stranded in the U.S.) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 10:24:32 +1000 From: Peter Mejak Subject: 3SGE RWD conversion, anyone seen one? Hi all, Well, still considering the 3SGE engine swap into my KE30 RWD Corolla. Since the 3SGE's only came out in East-West config, it will need to be converted to North-South config for my car. Just wondering -- has anyone ever actually seen a completed conversion? I'd like some info on how it turned out, what was involved, pitfalls etc. TIA, Cheers, Peter. PS. I was going to leave the 5K in place for now ($$$$), but it's having a few problems that may turn out to be terminal (possible cracked head/block) :-(. PPS. Corolla GTS (Levin Sprinter) Disc-Disc LSD conversion in the works -- just waiting for a new shipment from Japan. Let me know if you know someone in Aust who has one for sale. Chris Myer -- how much could you ship me a good example for? ====================================================== Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia peterm@aus.hp.com ====================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:15:57 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: '91T MR2 paint & car cover. Help! Over the last two weeks, I have noticed that my paint has taken a *serious* turn for the worse. It has been getting weekly car washes up here (touchless), so I'm not sure if that is the cause for my sudden faiding. Buffing it out seems to bring it almost back to new, but in just over a week, it's back to faded. It's like having an 8 foot rear-wing! Is there something I'm missing here? It looked *beautiful* for months, then all of the sudden - BOOM, major fading. I've been trying to follow the paint-fading and car-cover posts, but I've been awefully busy the last few weeks. So does the '91 MR2 just suddenly turn white all of the sudden. And the next obvious question - what's the best car cover for the '91T (power antenna, dual power mirrors, t-tops)? Who should I call to get one in pronto, and what material, manufacturer, etc. should I ask for? Any help would be great. I'd like to order the car cover tomorrow, so I can get it in sometime early next week. I'll just have to keep a close eye on the paint until then. :( Thanks to anyone who can give my any information. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:16:33 -0700 To: Adam Grove , From: David Rees Subject: Re: my header experience... At 08:20 PM 6/12/96 -0400, you wrote: >I'm *still* boiling clutch fluid enough so that, on a hot day, I can't >drive more than 20 minutes at a time. This is after changing to fresh >DOT 4 fluid and wrapping some thermal tape around the clutch lines. >I'm also going deaf surprisingly quickly. > -Adam (a fellow kiwi, stranded in the U.S.) Maybe there's a reason your header's are getting so hot, it seems that no-one else has experienced the amount of heat that you have got. Maybe it's a symptom of a clogged catalytic converter or muffler increasing backpressure and temps under the hood? Just a guess since you shouldn't be boiling clutch fluid! Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 14:21:40 +1200 (NZST) To: Adrienne Mora , From: Liam Venter Subject: RE: my header experience... At 03:27 PM 12/06/96 -0700, Adrienne Mora wrote: > >> The bottom line is that, although I definitely *feel* as though I have >> a bit more power (and perhaps that's what counts most), on balance >> I regret doing this. >> >> -Adam >> > >well .. you could always take it off and sell it. I might need one for my >SC MR2 race car once i do things like cams and computer ... is that right >Liam? I get the feeling that headers are usually only required after you >seriously work the engine. I suspect you are right on this unfortunately I wasn't being modest when I confessed engines were not my speciality. (I am OK on suspension systems) Several other people in the group have suggested that you are correct on the above in past correspondence. It seems to me that to get the best out of any modification it is necessary to do complimentaty modifications. I have never done any back to back testing on dyno or lap time tests with headers and without this the answers are only guess work. I beleive Chris has a program called Desktop Dyno which can model some of this stuff I would love to have a play with it. I know top race teams make good use of these types of program. I picked up my new light weight flywheel yesterday. I havn't weighed it yet but it looks fantastic. >Any comments? > >Ade >'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver >'87 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car >'87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car >AdeM@wairc.govt.nz >New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 14:21:45 +1200 (NZST) To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: TRD parts availability re 4age I rang TRD this morning to get a copy of their catalogue and price list for this engine. Thgeir 4age specialist (Lewis Baldwin Phone 714 444 -1188) tells me TRD is only supplying formula Atlantic spec engine parts for these engines now. This means much of the lower spec or less wild equipment that used to be available for weekend races is no longer available. Liam Venter Surely I can go faster their is still accellerator pedal movement available! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 23:54:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: Engine is BACK, car getting reassembled! Hi folks. This message is late in coming, since I've been busy and in an uncommunicative mood. However, I need some help, so I owe you all an update in return. About two weeks ago I drove down to Miami to Toyomoto and FINALLY got my engine back (I had taken it down there early February, if I remember correctly). It took forever for JE to make the custom pistons for my 7MGTE. What Lance did for me was: overbore the engine .040 thousandths supply and install forged JE pistons end-over-end balance the rods supply and install ARP rod bolts drill the flywheel to accept larger (supplied) ARP flywheel bolts supply and install new factory crankshaft and all short block bearings put the whole short block back together Anyway, the engine looks AWESOME. The cylinder bores were beautiful with a slight cross-hatch, the cylinder deck was mirror-smooth, and the new pistons look incredible. I've taken some pictures of the block with the head off, but haven't gotten then developed yet. If they come out ok I'll post them somewhere. While I was down there I saw Lance's car, the red '89 Supra Turbo that was exhibited in Turbo magazine. Some of the mods were obvious, such as the HUGE Greddy intercooler, the Y-shaped intake manifold off the NA Supra, and the 80mm/5" tip Greddy exhaust. Other mods were not really visible. His car is down right now because it blew up the clutch. I also saw a cool customer car, a '91 Supra Turbo that's been fully rigged out. I was impressed. It had the same 80mm/5" tip Greddy exhaust, no lower cat, and a 90mm no-cat turbo downpipe! I want that downpipe. The exhaust system was huge from the turbo on back. It also had a T04 turbo with a Greddy tubular (short though) header and a custom T04 header adapter. It had upgraded intercooler piping with a blow-off valve, an upgraded oil cooler, a Spearco intercooler, an M's boost controller, an A/F gauge, a knock sensor with display, upgraded injectors, I think a K&N air intake... that's all (!) I remember. The whole setup looked extra-clean and well done. So the engine and all the rest of the car parts are back in town. Lance was able to get me a Greddy 1.5mm head gasket, the fourth (!) head gasket for this car (*sigh*), and no two the same (factory, HKS 1.2, Greddy 2.0, Greddy 1.5). Hopefully this will be the last time I have to buy a head gasket. I expect my new mechanic to finish it up in two weeks or so and I can hardly wait... Oh, the thing I need help with is: does anyone know what the ARP head bolts are supposed to be torqued to? When my previous mechanic put the engine together he didn't include the sheet that listed those values, and now we need to do it again. I think it was 90 ft-lbs, but I want to be sure. Also, is anyone using the K&N filtercharger air-box replacement? I'm considering buying it. I don't like that it'll pull hot engine compartment air rather than cold outside air, but with my Super-H upgraded turbo I would like to get faster spool-up and the decrease in intake restriction I would get with the K&N should improve that. I used to have the K&N direct filter replacement (keeping the stock airbox) and didn't really notice any improvement from it, though the improvement in any case would be small. Thanks! Aaron B. '90 Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 14:04:31 +1000 From: Peter Mejak Subject: 3SGE RWD conversion, anyone seen one? Hi All, I'm resending this msg as I think it may have blounced due to the word inf0 in the text. Apologies if 2 copies get out.... Well, still considering the 3SGE engine swap into my KE30 RWD Corolla. Since the 3SGE's only came out in East-West config, it will need to be converted to North-South config for my car. Just wondering -- has anyone ever actually seen a completed conversion? I'd like some inf0 on how it turned out, what was involved, pitfalls etc. Also, I've just now 5 mins ago found out that I can't get a Corolla GTS (Levin Sprinter) disc-disc LSD rear end from our main Wrecker here in Melbourne (waited 6 weeks for the next shipment only to be told this). They have non-LSD units, but no LSD's, and they don't expect to be able to get one ever again. Does anyone know of an LSD unit available somewhere in Australia? Chris Myer, would you be able to get me a good one, and if so, at what sort of price? Thanks in Advance for any info, Cheers, Peter. PS. I was going to leave the 5K in place for now ($$$$), but it's having a few problems that may turn out to be terminal (possible cracked head/block) :-(. ====================================================== Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia peterm@aus.hp.com ====================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: SuperChips ICON...Anyone? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 01:24:18 -0400 (EDT) Anyone tried the Superchips ICON yet for the 4AGE? I'd like to hear your experiences with it. Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: '85 MR2 Fenders NEEDED To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 01:32:50 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu I'm looking for left and right fenders for my '85 MR2. I've called almost every junkyard in the area with no luck. If anyone knows of any for sale in good condition (No rust or dents), please email me. Aly '85 MR2 Lower NY abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 08:21:29 EDT Subject: Paeco parts Hi all, I just received a catalogue from Paeco Industries. Has anyone tried parts from these guys? They seem to have quite a lot of parts which they make themselves. gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 05:33:00 -0700 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Re: my header experience... To: David Rees Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com You wrote: > >At 08:20 PM 6/12/96 -0400, you wrote: > >>I'm *still* boiling clutch fluid enough so that, on a hot day, I can't >>drive more than 20 minutes at a time. This is after changing to fresh >>DOT 4 fluid and wrapping some thermal tape around the clutch lines. >>I'm also going deaf surprisingly quickly. >> -Adam (a fellow kiwi, stranded in the U.S.) David: I used to boil the fluid out of the slave cylinder also. I now run Cartel DOT 5 fluid in that and do not have any problems with it on the street. When I race however I need to bleed it after each heat. On another note: If you are making enough heat to boil the fluid... watch out for the starter.. I've melted the laquer off of the windings of two starters now. Since I have moved the starter to the intake side of the engine. I'm presently desigining a cable system for the clutch to replace the hydraulics. Thanks John Welch xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: David Rees Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: my header experience... Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:06:33 -0400 From: Adam Grove > > Maybe there's a reason your header's are getting so hot, it seems that > no-one else has experienced the amount of heat that you have got. Maybe > it's a symptom of a clogged catalytic converter or muffler increasing > backpressure and temps under the hood? Just a guess since you shouldn't be > boiling clutch fluid! > > Dave > Thanks for the suggestion. I haven't got around to looking at the cat yet. But you are right, something is surely wrong. My first thought was the manifold gasket but it seems intact. -Adam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: KlingK@aol.com Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 13:04:55 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: KlingK@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: belts and tensioners - solution I had this exact problem - it was the plate that holds the alternator belt tensioner - mine was missing one the bolts that hold it on ( most likely left off when the dealer did my timing belt @#%!@#$ ) it seems that the plate got coked and put stress on the bearing and killed it. Had the pulley replaced and it has been fine since - but it is now starting to happen again !!!!!!! The RPM range and symptoms fit my problem exactly............ Hope this helps.... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Todd.A.Campbell@mro01.usace.army.mil Date: 13 Jun 1996 14:11:43 Z To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Return requested) (Receipt notification requested) Hey All !!! I have a 1987 MR2 that I think need some ring Work. It just started smoking ( gray smoke ) If I top off the oil it seems to smoke as I shift gears, but if I am just driving it is not blowing smoke. After awhile ( maybe a day or to after I have "toped off" the oil it seems that the smoke stops. I have not done any engine work on my MR2 but I have done some pretty serious mods on my ZX6D motorcycle so......... and engine is an engine so I have a feeling I am looking at new rings for my MR2 !! Does anybody know what this is going to cost I had one guy say it would cost me about $2000.00 !!! Is that for a ring job or a complete engine rebuild. Also if I do have to rebuild the who engine I am thinking about get some more power out of my engine. Is there a "big bore kit" for MR2's. Thanks, Todd Cmapbell xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 15:28:15 -0400 From: Sean Simmen To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tweeking a '77 Celica... Hello everyone, I have a couple of quick questions for you guys- Will the rear solid axle of a 1979-81 Supra bolt into a 1977 Celica ST? Will the rear independent suspension from an '82-'89 Celica bolt into a 1977 Celica ST? In case you were wondering why anyone would want to do the above- it's to turn a recently acquired '77 Celica into a autocross and track monster! Sean xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 08:50:31 +1200 To: Peter Mejak , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: 3SGE RWD conversion At 10:24 am 6/13/96 Peter Mejak wrote: >Well, still considering the 3SGE engine swap into my KE30 RWD Corolla. Since >the 3SGE's only came out in East-West config, it will need to be converted to >North-South config for my car. Just wondering -- has anyone ever actually >seen a completed conversion? I'd like some info on how it turned out, what was >involved, pitfalls etc. Peter, I've seen a couple of Lotus 7 type cars here in NZ with the 3SGE in rear wheel drive configuration. The motor has been adopted as the standard engine for the clubman's series here. First off they either run cabies or injection. Carbies were used initially as most people were upgrading from 4AGEs that they already had on carbies. The injection manuifold alo wrapped over the top of the head and caused bonnet clearance problems. There are a couple of different models of 3SGE - the grunter is the late model MR2 135 kW one, but I've heard it can't be put into sevens because the motor is physically too tall. The earlier models are about 117 kW. The ones on carbies use an electronic black box made by Electronic Research and Development in Auckland, which costs about $NZ 400 (I think) to run the dizzy. I know the early ones had intermittent problems when it got hot, but I believe it is well sorted now. Some low buck racers are playing with the Nissan Pulsar dizzy which also runs direct off the cam, but contains all the ignition electronics. I dunno about advance profiles. Cost is about $40. I believe the injection is becoming popular, as Neal Fraser cuts the inlet manifold and rotates it 180 degrees so it folds down, not up. I had about 30 mm taken out of my old 4AGE 16 V EFI manifold so it cleared the bonnet, and it worked fine. As I say, I dunno how much room you've got. Then you can run stock or aftermarket computer. As for gearbox, the guys here run either the T50 AE86 corrola box with a $400 ally bellhousing made to match from Neil Fraser, or else they run an older box that goes with the 1800 cc motor, circa late 70's, I think. I think its SOHC. Anyway, the bolt patterns on the bellhousing line up, but about 5mm needs to be machined off the length to get the input shaft far enough into the engine. Hope this is of use, please contact me direct if you need to know more. The other Kiwis on the mods list should be able to help too. Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Just like a 3SGE but more efficient! Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 22:33:21 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: New to list Hi everyone I am new to this list and am just about to buy a 1976? RA28 Celica. It is the one that looks like a Mustang. Is there anyone that has one of these or has had any experince with one of these. It has the standard 18R motor with I think stock suspension. I will be looking at the suspension very soon, to make it fairly stiff without any body roll (hopefully). Any ideas or suggestions would be most appreciated. Kevin Annfield ----------------------------------------------------------------- | Commitment isn't the time you spend. It's a line you Cross. | | kevinann@powerup.com.au | | Visit my web page http://www.powerup.com.au/~kevinann/kevin.htm | ----------------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:01:36 +1000 (EST) From: "" To: Peter Mejak Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: your mail Hi Peter, I've seen a 3SG in a 77 Celica and the only major mod was modifying the dissy as it fouled the fire wall. These guys machined a 90 degree drive but it would be easier and more beneficial to go to a crank fire ignition. IDB Automotive in Melbourne are currently building a full house 3SG for a KE 30 (i think), they often have a full page ad in Fast Fours. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Thu, 13 Jun 1996, Peter Mejak wrote: > Subject: 3SGE RWD conversion, anyone seen one? > > Hi all, > > Well, still considering the 3SGE engine swap into my KE30 RWD Corolla. Since > the 3SGE's only came out in East-West config, it will need to be converted to > North-South config for my car. Just wondering -- has anyone ever actually > seen a completed conversion? I'd like some info on how it turned out, what was > involved, pitfalls etc. > > TIA, > > Cheers, > > Peter. > > PS. I was going to leave the 5K in place for now ($$$$), but it's having a few > problems that may turn out to be terminal (possible cracked head/block) :-(. > > PPS. Corolla GTS (Levin Sprinter) Disc-Disc LSD conversion in the works -- just > waiting for a new shipment from Japan. Let me know if you know someone > in Aust who has one for sale. Chris Myer -- how much could you ship me a > good example for? > > ====================================================== > Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia > peterm@aus.hp.com > ====================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:29:55 +1000 (EST) From: "" To: Sean Simmen Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Tweeking a '77 Celica... Hi Sean, good to see someone interested in modifying early model Celicas. I also have a RA23 Celica which is extensively modified (including a just installed 18RG fuel injected turbo, still running it in). As for your rear end questions unfortunately no it won't bolt straight in. The track is wider and the suspension mounts are in different spots. I used a disc brake LSD rear end from a levin sprinter, but this also required moving the suspension mounts. If you are after rear discs those from a Mitsubishi Magna (fronts) fit with very little modification as do those from a 280Z Nissan. The ipendant rear end would be a serious nightmare to install with no guarantee that it would even work let alone be an improvement And who would be wondering ? seems perfectly logical to me, its a good looking car, its cheap, late model parts bolt in relatively easily and you have the satisfaction of having done it yourself, besides sure is fun wiping the grins off all those late model clones. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Thu, 13 Jun 1996, Sean Simmen wrote: > Hello everyone, > > I have a couple of quick questions for you guys- > > Will the rear solid axle of a 1979-81 Supra bolt into a 1977 Celica > ST? > > Will the rear independent suspension from an '82-'89 Celica bolt into > a 1977 Celica ST? > > In case you were wondering why anyone would want to do the above- it's > to turn a recently acquired '77 Celica into a autocross and track > monster! > > Sean > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:25:40 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Collins To: "" Cc: Peter Mejak , Subject: Re: Fast Fours (was: your mail) On Fri, 14 Jun 1996, wrote: > crank fire ignition. IDB Automotive in Melbourne are currently building a > full house 3SG for a KE 30 (i think), they often have a full page ad in > Fast Fours. I take it that Fast Fours is a magazine, is this an Australian publication? I haven't seen this magazine in the US before, if you have more info on it i.e. where to buy a copy, that would be great. > > Cheers, > > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ > Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au > CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ James Collins collinsj@bird.library.arizona.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 11:32:21 +1000 (EST) From: "" To: Jim Collins Cc: Peter Mejak , Subject: Re: Fast Fours (was: your mail) Yes Fast Fours and Rotaries is an Australian publication ,unfortunately, would be near impossible to get in the states. It was the original Oz magazine for modified small cars although there are a number available now. It's still probably the best of its type, although like all these types of magazines it's far from perfect. Still it's a good source for ideas and the technical pieces can be useful. If any of you USA'ers are interested i can chase up subscriber info and a contact. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 22:10:04 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: my header experience... In a message dated 96-06-12 20:29:04 EDT, you write: >I'm *still* boiling clutch fluid enough so that, on a hot day, I can't >drive more than 20 minutes at a time. This is after changing to fresh >DOT 4 fluid and wrapping some thermal tape around the clutch lines. >I'm also going deaf surprisingly quickly. Is it possible you're running a rich mixture or not getting full burn in the cylinders? Unburned fuel that lights off after it exits the combustion chamber will cook an exhaust manifold red hot, like when you have one spark plug not firing. Just a thought since I've had zero problems with my header. Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Superchips ICON To: JEREMY@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Jeremy Snow) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 01:03:59 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Aly > > I've Got an ICON fitted to an 87 Bar AW11 > > Fitted it myself - Easy to fit (Four Wires) took about 20 mins. > > 1/Improved response > 2/around extra 8Bhp > 3/its remappable - this is good as I plan lots of extra engine mods > > I don't know if it's good value for money, Maybe. > What else do you want to know ? > > Jeremy > jeremy@cbs.citygroup.co.uk > > > Jeremy, The REAL question is: How does it feel on the "seat of the pants" meter? In other words, does the car FEEL faster, more pull? Do YOU truly feel a difference? I've been skeptical since that Superchips "Mitsubishi Scandal", but I'm considering trying the ICON since they said they'll let you try it first for 30 days. Thanks for your response :) Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Engine woes Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 10:20:45 -0400 From: Kevin Scaldeferri Well, I've finally gotten quotes on how much it would cost to replace the engine in my Celica, and it doesn't looklike it makes sense to do that. I wish I could rebuild it myself, but living in an apartment sorta precludes doing that. They don't like you changing your oil in the parking lot, so somehow I think taking the engine apart wouldn't go over very well. So, I'm going to get rid of the car and get something else. So the question is, is there anyone on this list within a reasonable distance of Washington DC who would be interested in buying the car to rebuild the engine. It's a metallic blue 88 Celica GTS Coupe. 102K miles. Everything else about the car is in good condition. There are a few small dents and one or two flaws in the interior, but with the exception of the engine, all the mechanical parts work well. The engine still runs, but knocks a lot, so I suspect most of the bottom end needs to be rebuilt. If anyone's interested, send me email with questions or an offer. The car is in College Park, MD right now, and I can get AAA to tow it up to 100 miles free of charge. Any further and we'd have to discuss how to transport the car. Thanks Kevin Scaldeferri xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 22:57:09 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: My new Celica RA28 Well just yesterday I bought my RA28 2 litre celica. I would like to first do something with the suspension. I have about $600 AUS to spend. I would like to lower it by maybe 1 - 1 1/2 inches and make it go around the twisty bits like it is on rails. Just like my go kart. I just bought some Yokohamas 195/60/14 's. I also would like the interior done. What colour looks really good on these cars. What sort of price am I looking at?? Thanks for the advice.. Kevin Annfield ----------------------------------------------------------------- | Commitment isn't the time you spend. It's a line you Cross. | | kevinann@powerup.com.au | | Visit my web page http://www.powerup.com.au/~kevinann/kevin.htm | ----------------------------------------------------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 14:55:44 +1200 (NZST) To: Peter Mejak , From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Cc: peterm@cyberspace.cyberauto.com At 10:24 AM 13/06/96 +1000, Peter Mejak wrote: >Subject: 3SGE RWD conversion, anyone seen one? > >Hi all, > >Well, still considering the 3SGE engine swap into my KE30 RWD Corolla. Since >the 3SGE's only came out in East-West config, it will need to be converted to >North-South config for my car. Just wondering -- has anyone ever actually >seen a completed conversion? I'd like some info on how it turned out, what was >involved, pitfalls etc. > >TIA, > >Cheers, > >Peter. Yep, this is a popular conversion in NZ. Several of these engines have been fitted into Lotus 7 style vehicles and boy do they go! I know there have been a lot of problems getting the sumps right. There seems to be an oil surge problem when fitted north south in a race car. However I understand that one of the guys now has a baffled wet sump that works and the other guys are using dry sumps. Most of the guys use a T-50 5 speed gearbox from a 1983 or there abouts Toyota Sprinter. They fit these with a locally made adaptor plate. With a standard 3sge these gearboxes seem to be ok but if you hot up the 3sge then and drive hard you may get problems with the gear box. Conversion kits and baffled sumps are available from Neil Fraser at Fraser cars. Phone number (NZ) 64 9 482 0071. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 14:56:04 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: 3SGE RWD conversion At 08:50 AM 14/06/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >At 10:24 am 6/13/96 Peter Mejak wrote: > >>Well, still considering the 3SGE engine swap into my KE30 RWD Corolla. Since >>the 3SGE's only came out in East-West config, it will need to be converted to >>North-South config for my car. Just wondering -- has anyone ever actually >>seen a completed conversion? I'd like some info on how it turned out, what was >>involved, pitfalls etc. > >Peter, > >I've seen a couple of Lotus 7 type cars here in NZ with the 3SGE in rear >wheel drive configuration. The motor has been adopted as the standard engine >for the clubman's series here. First off they either run cabies or >injection. Carbies were used initially as most people were upgrading from >4AGEs that they already had on carbies. The injection manuifold alo wrapped >over the top of the head and caused bonnet clearance problems. > >There are a couple of different models of 3SGE - the grunter is the late >model MR2 135 kW one, but I've heard it can't be put into sevens because the >motor is physically too tall. The earlier models are about 117 kW. The ones >on carbies use an electronic black box made by Electronic Research and >Development in Auckland, which costs about $NZ 400 (I think) to run the >dizzy. I know the early ones had intermittent problems when it got hot, but >I believe it is well sorted now. Some low buck racers are playing with the >Nissan Pulsar dizzy which also runs direct off the cam, but contains all the >ignition electronics. I dunno about advance profiles. Cost is about $40. This may be a better option as in incorporates vacum advance for when the engine is at low revs but heavy load. The ERD unit does not have a throttle position or vacum sensor and can not do this. > >I believe the injection is becoming popular, as Neal Fraser cuts the inlet >manifold and rotates it 180 degrees so it folds down, not up. I had about 30 >mm taken out of my old 4AGE 16 V EFI manifold so it cleared the bonnet, and >it worked fine. As I say, I dunno how much room you've got. Then you can run >stock or aftermarket computer. > >As for gearbox, the guys here run either the T50 AE86 corrola box with a >$400 ally bellhousing made to match from Neil Fraser, or else they run an >older box that goes with the 1800 cc motor, circa late 70's, I think. I >think its SOHC. Anyway, the bolt patterns on the bellhousing line up, but >about 5mm needs to be machined off the length to get the input shaft far >enough into the engine. > >Hope this is of use, please contact me direct if you need to know more. The >other Kiwis on the mods list should be able to help too. > >Phil Bradshaw >Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Just like a 3SGE but more efficient! >Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 14:56:11 +1200 (NZST) To: Jim Collins , From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Fast Fours (was: your mail) Cc: Peter Mejak , At 05:25 PM 13/06/96 -0700, Jim Collins wrote: >On Fri, 14 Jun 1996, wrote: > >> crank fire ignition. IDB Automotive in Melbourne are currently building a >> full house 3SG for a KE 30 (i think), they often have a full page ad in >> Fast Fours. > >I take it that Fast Fours is a magazine, is this an Australian >publication? I haven't seen this magazine in the US before, if you have >more info on it i.e. where to buy a copy, that would be great. > >> >> Cheers, >> >> ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ >> Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au >> CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia >> ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ > >James Collins collinsj@bird.library.arizona.edu Yes good guess. This is an Australian magazine. It is also sold in New Zealand for what it is worth. > regards Liam Venter > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 15:22:50 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Let's start getting this stuff outa here OK people, time to get this stuff out of my garage, what remains of my '85 MR2 parts car. No reasonable offer refused. I need my garage back! All prices include shipping, pre-paid. Spare tires (mini sprares) for both an '85 MR2 and a '91T MR2 - $20 each ECU/cooling fan module - $50 Alternator - $40 Starter - $40 Fuel injectors (4) - $65 I want to get this stuff outa here! More to come (or rather go, depending on your reference). Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: reyb@wildcat.sandiegoca.ncr.com Subject: FS: 22RE/5spd/xfer(San Diego) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 11:10:42 -0700 (PDT) Any local/semi-local interested in buying a 22RE/5spd/xfer case for $500? The engine has everything and includes ECU. The model year is '86 and mileage is 120k. -Rey- ======================================================== Rey Berin Phone: (619) 485-3285 NCR Corporation Fax: (619) 485-3010 17095 Via Del Campo San Diego, CA 92127 Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM ======================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 19:18:59 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Dysart@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: A/C problem--what about converting? Last time I checked, I couldn't even get a 30lb container without an EPA sticker. I called a few of the local auto-parts stores, and they wouldn't sell the 30lb unit without a 'freon number'. Last I checked, it was impossible to get 1lb containers without a number (still available, technically), but 20lb+ was ok (legally). Anybody know the law on this one? Steve B. >I thought I heard a similar thing but I then heard that all the freon they >are capturing will be recycled for future use in older cars. I did not want >to take a chance on this sort of thing so I purchased a 30 lb. container of >R-12 from my local discount warehouse. As you might know you can't >purchased the 1 lb cans without a permit. > >Glenn Dysart >dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil > >93 MR2 turbo >87 Corolla SR5 bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 22:16:08 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Console Armrest Hi everyone! I just did something some of you may be interested in. I recently pulled the center console armrest off my Florida car to recover it, and found the process pretty easy. The vinyl covering is held on by some two sided tape or glue strips and comes off very easily. I then went to my local fabric store and found a good quality black vinyl and bought half a yard (about $7). I thought it'd be nice to put a little more cushion under the fabric so I bought some 1/4 inch soft foam ($1). I then used the metal backing as a template and cut the foam to fit, and glued it on with contact cement (basically like rubber cement but stronger, $2). Then I used the old cracked vinyl piece as a template to cut the new piece, and using the same contact cement glued it to the metal backing and the new foam the same way the old one came off. I now have an armrest that looks good as new (if not better) and cost me all of $10 total. I also have tons of extra material since I only needed about a 12x12 square of the 18x48 piece of material I got! If anyone has a cracked armrest and needs material just let me know! Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 19:19:55 -0700 From: Nathan Hau To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: Nathan Hau Location: Pinole, CA Model: 86 mr2 Engine: 4age Mods: s.t. springs, k&n universal, momo steering wheel Email: nate@sinewave.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 23:19:35 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig A Terlau To: Daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Console Armrest I did the same thing when I had my 85 MR2. I also sewed a new shifter boot from the same material using the pannels from the old boot as templates. It was fairly easy, and the results were great! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 15:35:06 +1000 (EST) From: "" To: Craig A Terlau Cc: Daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: oxygen sensor Here's one for the fuel injection experts. I'm presently running in my fuel injected turboed 18RG (without the turbo till the head gets retensioned) and i would like to run an O2 sensor, firstly to help tuning and secondly as a warning of lean outs at high boost. Apparently single wire sensors only last about a week when using leaded fuel as they get lead coated at low exhaust temps. Someone suggested that the 3 wire sensors (which are heated) may last longer. Has anyone tried this or know if it has been sucessfully used in a leaded fuel car. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "" Cc: Craig A Terlau , Subject: Re: oxygen sensor Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 16:34:45 +1000 From: Peter Mejak Hi Justen, I'm not sure, but I think there may be O2 sensors available specifically designed for use in Leaded cars. I think I've seen an ad for exhaust gas meters with an optional "Leaded O2 sensor" from Four Plus Performance in Melbourne. If you want to chase it up, I'll look up the number for you. Cheers, Peter. ====================================================== Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia peterm@aus.hp.com ====================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: BrutalJuic@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 05:48:42 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Sam McCall Denton, TX 1984 Supra 5M-GE BrutalJuic@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:21:04 -0400 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: A/C problem--what about converting? > Last time I checked, I couldn't even get a 30lb container without an EPA > sticker. I called a few of the local auto-parts stores, and they wouldn't > sell the 30lb unit without a 'freon number'. Last I checked, it was > impossible to get 1lb containers without a number (still available, > technically), but 20lb+ was ok (legally). > > Anybody know the law on this one? > > Steve B. > I haven't been following this lately, but I think the loophole for selling 20lb and up tanks to consumers was closed in Nov 1995. However, it is trivial to get your license. You can do it by correspondence and it involves answering some small number like 20-30 multiple choice answers after reading a handbook. I might still have the name of the place that supplies the exam if someone is interested or you can post to rec.autos.tech and get more up to date info I'm sure. Jon xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 08:45:33 -0500 (CDT) From: "Dennis R. Conley" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: A/C problem--what about converting? >I haven't been following this lately, but I think the loophole for >selling 20lb and up tanks to consumers was closed in Nov 1995. Refrigerant of any quantity can only be purchased by licensed technicians. >However, it is trivial to get your license. You can do it by >correspondence and it involves answering some small number like 20-30 >multiple choice answers after reading a handbook. I might still have >the name of the place that supplies the exam if someone is interested >or you can post to rec.autos.tech and get more up to date info I'm >sure. One such place is: IMACA P.O. Box 9000 Fort Worth, TX 76147-2000 (817)338-1100 You can find others under http://www.epa.gov. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: CARREON_JUAN@tandem.com Date: 18 Jun 96 07:53:00 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name :Juan Carreon Location :Austin, TX Model :1983 CARMY and 'beer budget Lexus'->1993 Geo Prism (7AFE ) Engine :CARMY 2SE and Geo Prism -1.8L 115hp Toyota 7AFE (??) Mods :(None to Geo) about to overhaul 2SE and looking for suggestions email :CARREON@ACM.ORG Presently I am in the process of overhualing a 2SE and looking for input on possible mods. I have been floored by prices on parts for head specifically valve lifter/adjusters and rockers. Anybody got info on similiarities between 2SE and 3SFE? Willing to share all experiences with this adventure ...overhaul 2SE. Having hard time with specs of 2SE engine. Reference seem to differ in figures for horsepower, torque, bore and stroke...etc. Regards Juan xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 12:33:27 -0400 From: "Joe Braga" Subject: Clutch for 93 MR2 Turbo To: "Toyota Mods" Hi All, I've got a 93' turbo MR2 and its that time...I need a new clutch. I am hoping to do some modifications to the beast and thought I may as = =3D well start with the clutch. Does anyone have any suggestions/experiences = =3D good or bad for high performance clutches ? pros / conns ? I bought the car with 36K already on it and now it has 55K ..does anyone = =3D know how long the clutch should have lasted? Thanks for the ear. Joe Braga Software Developer Andyne Computing Ltd. 552 Princess St. Kingston, ON xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 15:07:36 -0400 From: "steve (s.l.) mcalister" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Toyota Parts I found a Toyota dealer in Sanford NC that discounts Toyota Parts 15%. When I bought the headset for my 4-Runner it was sweet saving over $30. The parts manager there said if I ever need anything again to just give him a call with a credit card number and he will UPS what ever I need at NO EXTRA COST. So I took advantage of this the other day for a timing belt and it was nice having the part delivered to my door and at a discount. I do not know of any other Toyota dealers discounting parts. This guy said he would extend the discount and shipping to anyone in the US. Sanford Toyota 919-708-5000 Parts manager is Donny I do not have any affiliation with Sanford Toyota or Toyota other than owning one. I wanted to give this guy a good plug for the discount he gives and hopefully some of you can save some money at the same time. - Steve xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 15:47:51 -0400 From: "Joe Braga" Subject: Re: Clutch for 93 MR2 Turbo To: "Toyota Mods" WELLLL Shhitttt ! I'm sitting here working, waiting to see if I get a response on my clutch = info request and what happens?... Some guy in our company parking lot = decides to play crash up derby. He backs up full blast into a car and = causes a 4 char chair reaction. All 4 cars are stuck together pinned to = the wall of the building. When he tries to take off he puts it in forward = and smokes my 93 MR2 turbo :-( . Well it looks like I may not be = needing a clutch after all... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 08:29:09 +1200 (NZST) To: "Joe Braga" , From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Clutch for 93 MR2 Turbo Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com At 12:33 PM 18/06/96 -0400, Joe Braga wrote: >Hi All, >I've got a 93' turbo MR2 and its that time...I need a new clutch. >I am hoping to do some modifications to the beast and thought I may as = >well start with the clutch. Does anyone have any suggestions/experiences = >good or bad for high performance clutches ? > >pros / conns ? > >I bought the car with 36K already on it and now it has 55K ..does anyone = >know how long the clutch should have lasted? > >Thanks for the ear. > Hi Joe I bought a sintered bronze button paddle clutch plate from my local clutch reconditioners. This is a copy of the TRD units but at a fraction of the cost. Most high performance brake and clutch shops in New Zealand will make these to order. Unlike a conventional clutch which has a circle of the friction material around the outside of the plate the paddle clutch has three broad spokes ratiating from the cntre. Each one of these spokes has a pad of this sintered bronze material rivete and glued to to each side. I am unsing the smaller diameter clutch that is fitted to the earlier 4age engines. Later model red top engines as fitted to many MR2,s have a larger diameter clutch. I have been racing on this clutch for over a year with no problems and I give it hell. My engine is probably between 115 and 130hp and I am still using the standard pressure plate. I think you will find this an excellent solution. By the way I was concerned the clutch action may have been a bit harsh for the street, but you get used to it in a few minutes and never think about it again. If you are over 150-160hp and you are racing then a heavy duty pressure plate may be worthwhile if not don't worry about it. best of luck Liam Venter > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 16:18:12 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: fjo@escape.ca (Fred Oberbuchner) Subject: 2WD 22RE Truck upgrades? (my truck wants to be a 4WD!) Vehicle: 1992 2WD Truck 22RE W55 trans F372 rear end Problem: I have a 2000lb boat I was not able to pull up the fairly steep packed sand/gravel/dirt road at my brother's shack-on-a-lake this weekend. I managed to get 1/2 way up the hill and then one tire began to spin. The truck was also having a problem with not enough grunt (needed to do major clutch slippage - stinky). Solutions: 1) I will need to replace the 2 rear tires (stock Dunslops) with something that has better grip. I will probably use 2 of my mud&snow tires I use for winter. 2) I am looking at a limited-slip differential.... any advice? ballpark prices? 3) I would like to regear to get a really, really low 1st gear but leave the rest of the gears as they are... is this possible? I found that the 4WD 22RE in 4WD LOW and 1st gear is perfect for this (my brother has the 4WD - fortunately). 4) My other option is to regear the rear end and run at higher RPM's on the highway.... I never drive above 120 km/hr anyway so this would probably be ok (how far can one go though before ending up with a city-only truck?). 5) Buy a new truck. Unfortunately, after looking at the prices of the new ones I decided against this option (or rather, the bank account decided for me). Any and all advice is appreciated! Thanks, Fred Oberbuchner fjo@escape.ca 1992 2WD Truck (22RE) 1988 Corolla GTS (4AGE) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 17:12:27 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: oxygen sensor Well my sensor died in less time than a week, I used to run on leaded only on race days and ULP the next day. After five rounds this year it would only reach .3 volts at full rich! I have noticed however that some of the mobs who sell LED meters are advertising Leaded sensor probs for $195 (Aus), its expensive but if you must run on Super its the only way. I now use 104 plus with 96 ron ULP, that gives near 100 RON and your sensor doesnt die! Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 08:50:56 +1000 (EST) From: "" To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: oxygen sensor Thanks for the response guys. Bruce, is your O2 meter a single wire or a heated 3 wire one, I've been told the heated ones will last longer, but not how much longer and of course I can probably get these cheap from a wreckers. Be interesting to know how the leaded probe is different, I'll have to give Four Plus a call. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Tue, 18 Jun 1996 bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote: > Well my sensor died in less time than a week, I used to run on leaded only > on race days and ULP the next day. After five rounds this year it would only > reach .3 volts at full rich! I have noticed however that some of the mobs > who sell LED meters are advertising Leaded sensor probs for $195 (Aus), its > expensive but if you must run on Super its the only way. I now use 104 plus > with 96 ron ULP, that gives near 100 RON and your sensor doesnt die! > Bruce > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 19:51:57 -0700 Subject: 91 MR2 Turbo for Sale To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Life has again started to beat me back to reality. It is my great displeasure to announce that my 91 MR2 Turbo is for sale, as an extended period of lacking gainful employment is forcing me to readjust my spending. If you consider Eugene, Oregon close and want more details. Lemme no. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "James O'Brien" Subject: Re: Clutch for MR2... To: Liam@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Liam Venter) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 12:24:47 +0800 (WST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Liam, (and the list) I've got a 4A-GE in a T-18 (TE72 chassis) with an unknown gearbox from an '88 Corona from Japan. My clutch is starting to die (and as a lurker on the TM group) I noticed your post. I've heard about using a centreforce clutch as a replacement, but obviously this wasn't an option for you... Would you mind telling me how much the clutch was so I'll have an idea of prices (even though I'm in Aust.) From your post, it appears as though you only replaced the clutch plate, was the pressure plate OK, or doesn't this method require the pressure plate to be replaced. Also, what would be stronger and more suitable for the street, the smaller clutch (I've got the smaller 4AGE (84kw)) or the 100kw version... Or would the clutch from a 4AGZE be any better ? While on the drivetrain subject, does anyone know of a LSD diff. which would fit this car easily (preferably without needing to alter the tailshaft) Thanks James. In Toyota.mods you wrote : > I bought a sintered bronze button paddle clutch plate from my local clutch > reconditioners. This is a copy of the TRD units but at a fraction of the > cost. Most high performance brake and clutch shops in New Zealand will make > these to order. Unlike a conventional clutch which has a circle of the > I am unsing the smaller diameter clutch that is fitted to the earlier 4age > engines. Later model red top engines as fitted to many MR2,s have a larger > diameter clutch. I have been racing on this clutch for over a year with no > problems and I give it hell. My engine is probably between 115 and 130hp and > I am still using the standard pressure plate. > Liam Venter xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: CARREON_JUAN@tandem.com Date: 19 Jun 96 23:02:00 +1700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies Not having first hand experience with both left and right hand drive cars I will take a WAG. The difference may be due to the mirrow effect. Here in the states shift pattern is: driver side 1 3 5 passenger 2 4 R Changing this pattern to mirrow of: passenger 5 3 1 driver R 4 2 Would explain the difference of close to differential vs far side away from differential using the same hardware. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 19 Jun 96 12:16:46 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: 93 MR2 Turbo crash up Joe Braga wrote: >WELLLL Shhitttt ! >I'm sitting here working, waiting to see if I get a response on my clutch = >info request and what happens?... Some guy in our company parking lot = >decides to play crash up derby. He backs up full blast into a car and = >causes a 4 char chair reaction. All 4 cars are stuck together pinned to = >the wall of the building. When he tries to take off he puts it in forward = >and smokes my 93 MR2 turbo :-( . Well it looks like I may not be = >needing a clutch after all... Joe, I really feel for you. A similar thing happened to me about 2 years ago. I was sitting at work and a delivery guy hit the accelerator instead of his brake and smashed the front of my 91 MR2 turbo. The most unkindest cut of all was when he announced to our receptionist what had happened he stated: "Someone's Dodge Daytona hit his delivery van!" >:-( William "Still crying over crashed MR2" Hall wh_hall@msn.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Wed, 19 Jun 96 10:38:55 -0600 Subject: Re: 2WD 22RE Truck upgrades? (my truck wants to be a 4WD!) To: fjo@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Fred Oberbuchner), Hello, I have an '84 with the 22R that I pull a now near 3000lb boat with (the old one was about 2300lb) Mine is 4wd and the engine is slightly warmed over, so I probably am pushing a little more HP than you are, and being 4wd, it's real easy to get used to the gearing of 4-low... makes pulling the boat out an idle-up the ramp affair. I would suggest changing to a more aggressive tire like the dunlop radial rover RV's and not a snow / mud tire. I have had excellent luck with the dunlops, and they ride a lot quieter than the mud tires I had. The next thing is to get a detroit locker (or the new e-z locker) installed in the rear. This gives 100% lock under low-traction situations - unlike a limited slip... which by design allows slippage. Detroit's I have never had a problem with, and I definately use mine on & off road. I think I paid around $340 through 4 wheel parts wholesalers. The E-Z locker is around $260 or so I think. Gearing is everything, but I don't know of a replacement 1st gear for the stock trans. I do know that for a while I was looking in to swapping a NV-4500 5-speed trans in with an adapter advance adapters makes. It is available with a granny low 1st - but the whole kit (trans & all ) cost around $1200 I think. Your next choice is to upgrade the engnie for low-end torque. I would swap cams, install a free-breathing exhaust, and free-up the intake (with a k&n / NWOR kit or other elemnt setup) Advance the timing about 4 degrees over stock. The timing curve is a little late on those engines. Use a good set of wires - I really like the Magnecor wires chris got me. and a good spark plug. Good luck, - Brian On Tue, 18 Jun 1996, fjo@escape.ca (Fred Oberbuchner) wrote: >Vehicle: >1992 2WD Truck >22RE >W55 trans >F372 rear end > >Problem: >I have a 2000lb boat I was not able to pull up the fairly steep packed >sand/gravel/dirt road at my brother's shack-on-a-lake this weekend. I >managed to get 1/2 way up the hill and then one tire began to spin. The >truck was also having a problem with not enough grunt (needed to do major >clutch slippage - stinky). > >Solutions: >1) I will need to replace the 2 rear tires (stock Dunslops) with something >that has better grip. I will probably use 2 of my mud&snow tires I use for >winter. > >2) I am looking at a limited-slip differential.... any advice? ballpark prices? > >3) I would like to regear to get a really, really low 1st gear but leave the >rest of the gears as they are... is this possible? I found that the 4WD 22RE >in 4WD LOW and 1st gear is perfect for this (my brother has the 4WD - >fortunately). > >4) My other option is to regear the rear end and run at higher RPM's on the >highway.... I never drive above 120 km/hr anyway so this would probably be >ok (how far can one go though before ending up with a city-only truck?). > >5) Buy a new truck. Unfortunately, after looking at the prices of the new >ones I decided against this option (or rather, the bank account decided for me). > >Any and all advice is appreciated! > >Thanks, >Fred Oberbuchner >fjo@escape.ca >1992 2WD Truck (22RE) >1988 Corolla GTS (4AGE) > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 16:55:43 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: My Header Experience A few quick thoughts about Adam's post on the heat problems he's had with his headers. Without starting the big do wrap/don't wrap war, I believe in wrapping the header, at least with a header blanket. The header blanket isn't quite as effective as insulating wrap, but it neither does it trap moisture against the header as badly. ThermoTec makes this in 36" x 42" sheets, and there is enough to cover a 4 cylinder header and have enough left over to cover other things like the clutch cylinder, etc. Also, I wondered if Adam had checked to ensure that the rest of the cooling system was working adequately. When headers get really hot it is usually too much timing or too lean fuel mixture. Of course lots of timing and lean fuel mixtures lead to more power (to some degree, pardon the over- simplification), so this is a tradeoff too. Anyone who has more than 40K miles on their radiator cap should chunk it and get another one. if you can use a standard-sized radiator cap, Stant makes 21 and 25 psi caps that are perfect for holding the temperatures down on race engines. If you have over 100K miles, you need to start considering getting the radiator either replaced or recored. They don't last forever. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 10:01:21 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Lead O2 sensors/H2O injection Sorry people, but somehow I missed the original post on this. I had this problem when I was putting the 20 valve into my kit car, as NZ was on the verge of bringing in 96 ULP (our 96 had been leaded whilst 91 was ulp). We don't have to have cats etc here (yet). I did a lot of asking around and got 8 different answers ranging from 'EA Ford Falcon (Aussie rear wheel drive car about the size of a Taurus but better looking) sensors are lead compatible' to 'use a black box' to 'black boxes dont work' to 'a lead tolerant one is available @$300 NZ' to 'no such thing as lead tolerant' etc etc. Came to the conclusion that no-one knows what they are talking about. I run without a sensor, and have done this on both 16 v 4AGE on 91 ulp and 20 v 4AGE on 96 leaded and now 96 ulp. The 16 valve ran with the sensor initially, but it broke off (a small matter of not enuff clearance betwen sensor and bodywork) after a couple of thousand miles. The car ran no different (to the driver - no doubt you can pick it on a meter) Bottom line is that 4AGEs (and probably a lot of other Toyotas) run very happily without the sensor. Note that I said without (ie unplugged) - if it is defective and plugged in it will send erroneous signals. Unplugged the computer goes to open loop and ignores the lambda reading (so I am told). In so doing it richens the mixture slightly, but my car on leaded and no sensor certainly had a gray exhaust pipe, so it doesn't run that much richer. Still get 34.5 mpg (UK gallons - 4.5 litres) on the 20 valve with 4.44:1 diff. Apparently the guys here used to unplug for racing and hook it up for road use. I would recomend unplugging and replacing the sensor with a blank when you run leaded and put it back otherwise (assuming it is a track-type thing and you need compliance otherwise). It will only take a couple of minutes to do, and avoid poisoning the sensor. I had a really interesting chat with a guy who crewed an Escort Cosworth rally car in UK a couple of years ago (and had some Formula 1 crew time) about this issue. He had been playing with sensors to help with this problem, but I dunno what the longevity was as they changed bits pretty frequently on the escort (oh to have money), HOWEVER he said they ran water injection in a very precise manner and were able to run consideraly more turbo boost than competitors before getting any detonation (they had strict fuel regulations). Maybe this is a back door solution? I dunno much (anything) about water injection. Hope this is of help. Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve Palmerston North New Zealand PS - I will be away from next Tuesday for 10 days, so I may be slow in replying to any queries about this. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 10:10:39 +1200 (NZST) To: "James O'Brien" From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Clutch for MR2... Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com At 12:24 PM 19/06/96 +0800, James O'Brien wrote: >Hi Liam, (and the list) > I've got a 4A-GE in a T-18 (TE72 chassis) with an unknown gearbox >from an '88 Corona from Japan. My clutch is starting to die (and as a lurker >on the TM group) I noticed your post. > > I've heard about using a centreforce clutch as a replacement, but >obviously this wasn't an option for you... Would you mind telling me how >much the clutch was so I'll have an idea of prices (even though I'm in Aust.) I can't remember somwher in the region of $125-$200 NZD. (about $110-$134 USD) > > From your post, it appears as though you only replaced the clutch >plate, was the pressure plate OK, or doesn't this method require the >pressure plate to be replaced. You are right I am still using the standard pressure plate with no problems with the very standard motor currently fitted to the race car. However I am upgrading to 160-180 hp motor and have been offered a cheap heavy duty pressure plate so I will install that just in case. I did however use a brand new pressure plate with the sintered bronze paddle clutch, but only because when my old standard clutch plate exploded it damaged the original pressure plate. (By the way this exploded a couple of laps after the ex New Zealand and Australian Touring car champion, Robby Francevic had given me a fairly exciting driving lesson while I sat in the passenger seat. I thought I was hard on cars but he made me look soft). > > Also, what would be stronger and more suitable for the street, the >smaller clutch (I've got the smaller 4AGE (84kw)) or the 100kw version... >Or would the clutch from a 4AGZE be any better ? I am using the smaller (and probably lighter) pressure plate for racing. I am sure for a street engine up to 160hp fitted with a sintered bronze paddle clutch plate that you will have no problems with the small plate. I think that in order to change size of plates that you would also need to change the flywheel. Hope this helps Regards Liam Venter xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 08:30:59 +1000 (EST) From: "" To: "James O'Brien" Cc: Liam Venter , Subject: Re: Clutch for MR2... Hi James, the T18 rear end is the same as the one used in 78 and earlier Celicas (unless you have a late model independant rear end). The LSD center out of the square shaped GT Corollas or an 85 sprinter bolt straight in, with ratios from 3.9 to 4.3:1. I also run a centerforce clutch which cost me about $375 for the pressure plate and clutch plate. These clutch sets are great if you have a street car as the pedal effort is the same as standard, the centifugal weights do all the work not the pressure plate springs. I don't know the sizes for 4AG pressure plates but for 2T and 3T motors (twin cams included) either Holden six or one tonner pressure plates (depending how much clamping you want and how strong your leg is) can be machined to fit. They charge about $90 here in Canberra with another $80 or so for a paddle clutch plate. Call it $200 with thrust bearings etc and that is one cheap hi-po clutch. Cheers, ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Wed, 19 Jun 1996, James O'Brien wrote: > Hi Liam, (and the list) > I've got a 4A-GE in a T-18 (TE72 chassis) with an unknown gearbox > from an '88 Corona from Japan. My clutch is starting to die (and as a lurker > on the TM group) I noticed your post. > > I've heard about using a centreforce clutch as a replacement, but > obviously this wasn't an option for you... Would you mind telling me how > much the clutch was so I'll have an idea of prices (even though I'm in Aust.) > > From your post, it appears as though you only replaced the clutch > plate, was the pressure plate OK, or doesn't this method require the > pressure plate to be replaced. > > Also, what would be stronger and more suitable for the street, the > smaller clutch (I've got the smaller 4AGE (84kw)) or the 100kw version... > Or would the clutch from a 4AGZE be any better ? > > While on the drivetrain subject, does anyone know of a LSD diff. > which would fit this car easily (preferably without needing to alter the > tailshaft) > > > Thanks > > James. > > In Toyota.mods you wrote : > > I bought a sintered bronze button paddle clutch plate from my local clutch > > reconditioners. This is a copy of the TRD units but at a fraction of the > > cost. Most high performance brake and clutch shops in New Zealand will make > > these to order. Unlike a conventional clutch which has a circle of the > > > > > I am unsing the smaller diameter clutch that is fitted to the earlier 4age > > engines. Later model red top engines as fitted to many MR2,s have a larger > > diameter clutch. I have been racing on this clutch for over a year with no > > problems and I give it hell. My engine is probably between 115 and 130hp and > > I am still using the standard pressure plate. > > > > > Liam Venter > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: My Header Experience Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 18:54:52 -0400 From: Adam Grove > A few quick thoughts about Adam's post on the heat problems he's had with > his headers. Without starting the big do wrap/don't wrap war, I believe > in wrapping the header, at least with a header blanket. The header blanket > isn't quite as effective as insulating wrap, but it neither does it trap > moisture against the header as badly. ThermoTec makes this in 36" x 42" > sheets, and there is enough to cover a 4 cylinder header and have enough > left over to cover other things like the clutch cylinder, etc. > Thanks! I actually heard about these these things last week, and got them to send me one immediately (more $; sigh). I haven't put it on yet though. I hadn't seen them mentioned on this list (or anywhere) until your note, but it definitely strikes me as a sensible alternative to wrap for exactly the reasons you say. > > Also, I wondered if Adam had checked to ensure that the rest of the cooling > system was working adequately. When headers get really hot it is usually > too much timing or too lean fuel mixture. Of course lots of timing and Time to install the O2 meter I guess. > lean fuel mixtures lead to more power (to some degree, pardon the over- > simplification), so this is a tradeoff too. Anyone who has more than 40K > miles on their radiator cap should chunk it and get another one. if you > can use a standard-sized radiator cap, Stant makes 21 and 25 psi caps that > are perfect for holding the temperatures down on race engines. If you have > over 100K miles, you need to start considering getting the radiator either > replaced or recored. They don't last forever. > > Chris > I hadn't thought of the cooling system. The car has 95K so this definitely could be an issue. I should say that when I had problems it was generallly extremely hot and humid (been like that quite a lot recently here.) Thanks a lot for the ideas, Chris. Actually, while I'm here, another question for everyone. While I'm installing the O2 meter there's probably some advantage in installing any other guages I might one day want at the same time. By doing it all at once I can spend the time to get a clean looking install. So the question is: are there other guages that people have found especially useful? Or are the stock oil pressure/water temp guages good enough for most uses? Thanks in advance, -adam (88 Mk1 supercharged mr2) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 16:45:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: FW: oxygen sensor To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" ---------- From: owner-diy_efi-outgoing To: diy_efi Cc: diy_efi (postings) Subject: Re: oxygen sensor Date: Tuesday, June 18, 1996 10:30PM > ---------- > From: toyota-mods-owner > To: Craig A Terlau > Cc: Daucott; mr2-digest; Toyota-mods > Subject: oxygen sensor > Date: Tuesday, June 18, 1996 3:35PM > > Here's one for the fuel injection experts. I'm presently running in my > fuel injected turboed 18RG (without the turbo till the head gets > retensioned) and i would like to run an O2 sensor, firstly to help tuning > and secondly as a warning of lean outs at high boost. Apparently single > wire sensors only last about a week when using leaded fuel as they get > lead coated at low exhaust temps. Someone suggested that the 3 wire > sensors (which are heated) may last longer. Has anyone tried this or know > if it has been sucessfully used in a leaded fuel car. > > Cheers, > > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ > Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au > CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ > Yes, a heated sensor works very well. If you use both a digital vm to read voltage and a fast responding led readout meter so you can see excursions sensor makes, you can tell when sensor is getting poisoned as range of excersions will reduce. Can regenerate sensor for furthur use by running in unleaded car for few weeks. Be aware that special sensors are used for a/f meters for reduced flow and constant 650 deg C temperature. Frank Parker 93 Civic EX vtec custom turbo 89 S-10 L98 V-8 with TFS/DFI/SuperRam > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 21:45:06 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Aric Shen Subject: MR2 MkI 5 speed Trannies Ok, yesterday, my transmission finally took a dump.. I am no in need of a "new" used transmission. When I had researched this earlier, I noticed that the right hand drive MR2s and the shift linkage located on the opposite side of the transmission. In the left hand drive cars, the linkage in on the side closest to the firewall, opposite of the differential section. The right hand drive transmission appeared to have the linkage on the same side as the diff. Does anyone know why the hell it is like that ??? The shifter is in the same place for both cars it only seems appropriate to use the same transmission correct ? If someone could please enlighten me because I'm really pissed off right now because all the junkyards say they are the same and they arent.. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 15:58:03 +1000 (EST) From: "" To: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Cc: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Subject: Re: FW: oxygen sensor Thanks Frank, just the sort of information I was after but what do you mean by excursions. I have a fast response LED meter but i'm not sure what you are refering to here. ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ On Wed, 19 Jun 1996, Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS) wrote: > > ---------- > From: owner-diy_efi-outgoing > To: diy_efi > Cc: diy_efi (postings) > Subject: Re: oxygen sensor > Date: Tuesday, June 18, 1996 10:30PM > > > ---------- > > From: toyota-mods-owner > > To: Craig A Terlau > > Cc: Daucott; mr2-digest; Toyota-mods > > Subject: oxygen sensor > > Date: Tuesday, June 18, 1996 3:35PM > > > > Here's one for the fuel injection experts. I'm presently running in my > > fuel injected turboed 18RG (without the turbo till the head gets > > retensioned) and i would like to run an O2 sensor, firstly to help tuning > > and secondly as a warning of lean outs at high boost. Apparently single > > wire sensors only last about a week when using leaded fuel as they get > > lead coated at low exhaust temps. Someone suggested that the 3 wire > > sensors (which are heated) may last longer. Has anyone tried this or know > > if it has been sucessfully used in a leaded fuel car. > > > > Cheers, > > > > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ > > Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au > > CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia > > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ > > > Yes, a heated sensor works very well. If you use both a digital vm > to read voltage and a fast responding led readout meter so you > can see excursions sensor makes, you can tell when sensor is getting > poisoned as range of excersions will reduce. Can regenerate sensor > for furthur use by running in unleaded car for few weeks. > Be aware that special sensors are used for a/f meters for reduced > flow and constant 650 deg C temperature. > > Frank Parker > > 93 Civic EX vtec custom turbo > 89 S-10 L98 V-8 with TFS/DFI/SuperRam > > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 07:43:38 -0700 From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch ) Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed Trannies To: Aric Shen Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com You wrote: > >Ok, yesterday, my transmission finally took a dump.. I am no in need of a >"new" used transmission. When I had researched this earlier, I noticed that >the right hand drive MR2s and the shift linkage located on the opposite side >of the transmission. In the left hand drive cars, the linkage in on the >side closest to the firewall, opposite of the differential section. The >right hand drive transmission appeared to have the linkage on the same side >as the diff. snip I have done a lot of work on MR-2 trannys... All of the ones I have seen in MR-2's have the shifter controls on the firewall side (oppsite the diff ) However the same trans is used in many of the FWD Corollas and the model number is the same ( C50 or C52 ) but the shifter controls are on the differential side. This is because in a front wheel drive car it puts the linkages closer to the passenger compartment (firewall) for eaiser shifter linkage routing. This causes quite a bit of confusion, I've had many junk yards argue about weather or not it's the proper transfor the car. As for the trans model number they are the same.... will it fit ? NO... not with out some changes in the shifter linkages. You have 2 choices... 1. keep looking until you find the proper trans. 2. If you have the use of a press.. get the tranny and disassemble your original and the new one... use the center case section from the original one and all the internals from the new one. FYI. My present set up... I use the bellhousing from a C-52 trans ( some '87-'88 MR-2's and FX-16's ) because it has the starter mounts on both sides of the tranny. I use the center section from either a C-50 or C-52 trans that came out of an MR-2.. because it has the linkages on the proper side... and I use the gears from a C-150 ( '89-'94 Corollas, some Paseos ) because it has a taller , 3.722, rear end gear and shorter 1st and 2nd gears. This gives me very good accerlation and excelent top end. 0-60 4.2 sec. 1/4 mile 13.01 @ 100.1 top speed 157 with stock size tires. 240 bhp Hope this helps Thanks John '86 4-runner '87 MR-2 Turbo '78 Triumph Spitfire xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 10:57:09 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: O2 Sensor To the list, I also confirm that the Australian and Japanesse 4AG's, will run if you totally disconect the sensor. It runs a little rich in some cases as my LED meter shows but a bad sensor is much worse. However dont count on ULP running to fix the problem, I have tried weeks of ULP running and heating the sensor in a burner as some texts say, it DOESNT work if its too far gone. Also DO NOT put current through the sensor (i.e your multimeter). I couldnt fix mine so I took it out, eventually Bill S lent me his a we are running ok now. I have also seen people use the Ford Falcon sensors, the have screws but are otherwise the same for 1/2 the price. If you build a header build for the Ford screw type, it doesnt last any longer but its cheap and easy to get a new one. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Starlet16v@aol.com Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 15:15:29 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Need engine...... Anyone? Does anyone have a "complete" 4AGE or 3TC ready for installation. You see I have had my Starlet in the shop for a while and the owner is getting ready to charge storage fees. So if anyone has one of the above mentioned motors for a reasonable price please contact me.....if u don't have a motor but have ideas on where to look, drop me a line. Thankx to any help. Radley......2 -82' Starlets needing motors........... ps. what car came with the 2TC??? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: BBRANDT@tcmail.frco.com Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 15:58:07 -0500 Subject: FWD: Red Line MTL To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com The following was posted in a friends 914 mailing list. I know that Red Line products have gotten nothing but rave reviews on this list. Has anyone had any problems with MTL? Bruce Brandt 89MR2 SC T-Tops Well, I just got back from a visit with Tony, my mechanic. I learned several things: 1) It's a damn good thing that I decided to get the tranny overhauled this month! It looks like it wasn't far from blowing itself up in a really spectacular, messy, and expensive way. 2) I will never, ever, ever, EVER use Red Line MTL again! The stuff that came out (1 month and about 350 miles on it!) was just *full* of metal. The previous batch had been in for about 2 years and 5K miles. Tony's replacing things in this tranny that he's *never* had to replace before (except when the tranny really blew up). Things like the spider gears in the differential. I saw, they did look ugly; definite wear on them, plus pitting on a number of teeth. Yuck. Tony says "use Swepco." I am now a believer! 3) Everything on this car *was* in worse shape than it seemed. With this overhaul, the entire powertrain will have been "done"... And this from a car that seemed to be one of the "good ones" when I bought it. Oh well, you can't always tell from the outside! --DD Dave Darling 74 914 1.8 (FOR SALE), 74 914 2.0 (VROOM! 8) darling@simlab.arc.nasa.gov "Will Spin for Food" ================================== PorscheFans 914 Message For help, send an e-mail to PorscheFans@ioio.com. You will get an automated reply. To post a message to PorscheFans 914, send an e-mail to PorscheFans-914@ioio.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 17:21:30 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Justice for the Lawnmower To the list, Early this year my 4A-G broke a crank key and had to be towed home. My wife drove me around for a few days in her BMW Coupe and told me to get a new car, hers never broke down. She said she would never drive in my AE86 and called it the 'lawnmower' as it sat too low to the ground and made too much noise. Last Sunday she asked me to fix her heater as it wasnt working, after a while I discovered that it didnt work because there wasnt any water in the radiator! A quick check showed that the car had done a head gasket, this machine is an E36 (current), 49,000KMS and 2.5 years old, 6 months out of warrenty!!!!! The repair bill was $3,000 and after some fighting BMW paid it all. But it took two days to replace and for that time she had to ride in the 'lawnmower' or walk. This Saturday I am picking up a brand new BMW coupe to replace the 'old' one. She traded it back a week after it was fixed, she kindly sent me the bill this morning ($70,000). A quick check of the Austrlian family law act showed that it was cheaper to pay this bill than a divorce so I'm going to the Bank tommorrow for some help. At least when I drive the AE-86 now I feel its more reliable than a BMW, and I just dont know why you guys want a Women who likes cars, its just not worth it! Bruce (This is all true, I'll fax the invoice Bill) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 16:34:58 +1200 (NZST) To: Adrienne Mora , From: Julie Ziegler Subject: Re: 84-87 MR2 body differences At 11:02 AM 21/06/96 -0700, Adrienne Mora wrote: > >Hi all > >Well, after a little enquiring (and keen spotting by Malcolm! thanks! : ) > .. i found out that the MR2 shell i have is actually an 84 .. not 87 (which >is the facelift model.... equivalent to US88-89 models). > >So .. here's a question to rack your brains. > >I've got a SC car for parts ... all the parts are being stripped off it and >will be put on the shell ... now .. i know that at least one of the engine >mounts will be different for the SC engine (right Gerald?). I'll get around >that one with a little bit of modification!! : ) John Gapes in Hamilton fabricates a pretty good engine mount. > >What i need to know is .... are all the suspension points etc etc the same >in both models of the mki MR2? I have the suspension from both cars so if i >need to i can use the 84 stuff... but i thought that putting the adjustable >suspension and larger brakes of the SC car on the race car was a better >idea. Any comments?? > >Thanks heaps > >Ade >'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver >'84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car >'87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car >AdeM@wairc.govt.nz >New Zealand > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 21:53:11 -0700 (PDT) From: michael newell To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Swapping from carb. to fuel inj. Here's a question to anyone who may have done this or knows what may need to be anticipated when done. I currently have an 85 Toyota pickup with the 22R carbed engine. The engine will need to be replaced soon. Now I know that there are a lot of people on this list that have modified their 22R's but I'm not really into that. What I want to do is replace the engine with a fuel injected one. What would I need to do to make it work?? Pressurize the gas line?? It surely can't be so easy as a drop in replacement but if it is.... But seriously does anyone know what needs to be done to make this work??? Your input is more than appreciated. Thank you. Michael Newell 1986 MR2 1985 Toyota Truck xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 21 Jun 96 01:38:50 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: "\"toyota-mods@cyberauto.c" Subject: Turbos Why is it that when I'm in neutral and rev the engine, the turbo gauge doesn't move but in other cars (Talon, Volvo, Grand National, etc.) the turbo gauge moves when you rev the engine in neutral? Curiously, Alex 91MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 02:20:44 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Christopher Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Christopher Long Location : Jacksonville, FL Model : 1993 MR2 Turbo Engine : 3S-GTE Mods : Stage 4 HKS package (Powerflow, EVC, VPC, turbo upgrade) email : mrchris@southeast.net Had to replace a piston last year (EVC failed, ran too lean!). Haven't quite gotten back up to stage 4 yet. Need to rebuild the turbo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 08:55:28 -0500 From: tcampbel@mroim_36988.mro.usace.army.mil (Todd Campbell 3258) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: New Engine I have been having problems with my e-mail so I am not sure if I people are getting these messages so I wanted to send this message...AGAIN !! I need a new engine ( eventually ) for my 1986 MR2. It has started smoking, not heavily but I know I need to start looking a rebuild or a new engine. Has anyone done this before ? What do you think is better, a rebuild or try to find a good used engine. I spoke with my local toyota dealer and here are the prices they gave me. $400.00 for parts $300.00 for head work $1300.00 labor. Is this reasonable ? Also, I have done engine mods on a motorcycle ( ie. new rings, pistons ) with motorcycles I have found that many time "high performance" parts many times are not much more expensive than oem parts. Is this true with toyota stuff ? Finally, can you get a "big bore kit" or something like this, If I am going to rebuild the engine I would like to get a little more horse power. Any help would be apprectiated. Todd C. Todd.A.Campbell@usace.army.mil xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 08:09:25 -0700 Subject: Re: Turbos To: Alex Pun <75104.2070@cyberspace.cyberauto.com>, On 21 Jun 96, Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> wrote: >Why is it that when I'm in neutral and rev the engine, the turbo gauge doesn't >move but in other cars (Talon, Volvo, Grand National, etc.) the turbo gauge >moves when you rev the engine in neutral? Two reasons: 1. Low backpressure from the exhaust and a lack of engine loading. and more significantly . . . 2. The stock boost gauge in the MR2 Turbo is very slow. If there's any boost at all, you'll likely pull your foot off of the gas before it registers. If you intend to do any sort of boost mods at all, a quality aftermarket boost gauge is imperative for accurate measurements. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 09:52:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Seymour Butts To: Mods Toyota Subject: DT Headers on my 22R CElica Hey guys, just put some DT headers on my 22R Celica, a good increase in power at the top end (above 3k or so) with no loss in the bottom. Should have seent the stock manifold! It just dumps all the exhaust gas into a chamber about the size of a (well something) and then throws it into two pipes which combine into one and then intot the CAT. Not pretty. But the new ones (which I got from Chris) are great. Dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 10:30:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies To: Toyota Mods > Not having first hand experience with both left and right hand drive > cars I will take a WAG. The difference may be due to the mirrow effect. > Here in the states shift pattern is: > driver side 1 3 5 passenger > 2 4 R > Changing this pattern to mirrow of: > passenger 5 3 1 driver > R 4 2 Sorry man ... right hand drive cars have the same pattern .. ie: passenger 1 3 5 Driver side 2 4 R Later Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '87 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 11:02:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: 84-87 MR2 body differences To: "'MR2-digest'" , Hi all Well, after a little enquiring (and keen spotting by Malcolm! thanks! : ) .. i found out that the MR2 shell i have is actually an 84 .. not 87 (which is the facelift model.... equivalent to US88-89 models). So .. here's a question to rack your brains. I've got a SC car for parts ... all the parts are being stripped off it and will be put on the shell ... now .. i know that at least one of the engine mounts will be different for the SC engine (right Gerald?). I'll get around that one with a little bit of modification!! : ) What i need to know is .... are all the suspension points etc etc the same in both models of the mki MR2? I have the suspension from both cars so if i need to i can use the 84 stuff... but i thought that putting the adjustable suspension and larger brakes of the SC car on the race car was a better idea. Any comments?? Thanks heaps Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Todd.A.Campbell@mro01.usace.army.mil Date: 21 Jun 1996 13:18:26 Z To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Return requested) (Receipt notification requested) Subject: New engine I sent a mail mesasge inquiring about new engines for a toyota MR2 I didn't get any mail back !!!! I am hoping that is because no one got the message and not because no one has any ideas !! Here is the problem, I NEED A NEW ENGINE IN MY 1986 MR2 !! My local Toyota dealer, says that it is $400.00 in parts $300.00 in head work and $1300.00 for labar, but this is all stock parts !!! First, is there anything I can do to get some more power out of this thing !! maybe a "big bore kit", some thing that will give me more horsepower ? Second, do I want to do a complete re-build or is it going to more profitable for me to find a used or rebuilt engine. I am used to do some serious rebuilds on motorcycles and I have found that in motorcycles, "high performance" parts are many times not that more expensive than the oem parts oyu can get from dealers and such. So what I am saying is...if you have rebuilt your MR2 and yoiu have any ideas as to the cost, time involved etc.... PLEAESE LET ME KNOW !!! Todd.A.Campbell@usace.army.mil xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 13:34:12 -0700 (PDT) From: An-Hong Chien To: Mods Toyota Subject: hesitation from 1-2 gear. i have a 1987 mr2 (automatic) and i was wondering if anyone had the problem with hestitation from the 1st to 2nd gear? i've been having this prob for a whil and was wondering what i can do about it? thanks in advance dave xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 14:35:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: FW: oxygen sensor To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" ---------- From: owner-diy_efi-outgoing To: diy_efi Cc: diy_efi (postings) Subject: Re: oxygen sensor Date: Thursday, June 20, 1996 11:00PM > > Thanks Frank, just the sort of information I was after but what do you > mean by excursions. I have a fast response LED meter but i'm not sure > what you are refering to here. > > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ > Justen Simpson simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au > CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia Just to the normal back and forth action of the sensor as it runs in closed loop. It will cycle back and forth from 0.0/0.1 to o.8-0.9 volts with an average voltage @ the closed loop control point of 14.7 a/f of about 450 mv. Both regular and digital meters will some the average but the the excersions down to 0 and up to 0.9 volts. Some digital meters with bar graphs or a led meter using the LM3914 bar graph chip will show the oscillations. frank parker xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Autocross at SUNY Purchase 6/23 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 02:40:08 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-announce@ucbvax.berkeley.edu To all enthusiasts, There will be an SCCA Solo II Autocross at the State University of New York (SUNY) at Purchase this Sunday, June 23rd. Registration starts at 9AM, and the first car is off at 11AM. It is sponsored by the Westchester County Sports Car Club. If anyone would like anymore info on this autocross or others, feel free to email me. Likewise if you need directions. I will be driving my red '88 Colt in H Stock, since the MR2 is still being repaired. Hope to see you there :-) Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 01:10:45 -0700 To: squelch@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (John Welch ), From: Aric Shen Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed Trannies Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >I have done a lot of work on MR-2 trannys... All of the ones I have >seen in MR-2's have the shifter controls on the firewall side (oppsite >the diff ) However the same trans is used in many of the FWD Corollas >and the model number is the same ( C50 or C52 ) but the shifter >controls are on the differential side. This is because in a front wheel >drive car it puts the linkages closer to the passenger compartment >(firewall) for eaiser shifter linkage routing. > > This causes quite a bit of confusion, I've had many junk yards argue >about weather or not it's the proper transfor the car. As for the >trans model number they are the same.... will it fit ? NO... not with >out some changes in the shifter linkages. > The thought that it might be a FWD trannie entered my mind a couple days later when I was doodling an arial view of a motor and trans setup.. I'm glad to hear that its not just me that gets the "oh yeah, this is an MR2 trans for SURE" story.. thanks for clearing that up.. >0-60 4.2 sec. >1/4 mile 13.01 @ 100.1 >top speed 157 with stock size tires. >240 bhp Damn.. thats fast.. I remember when you first joined the list.. you had some crazy list of parts.. what size turbo are you using ? what manifold ? and what kind of fuel injection are you using ?? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 16:10:53 EST Subject: Koni vs Tokico Addressed to: MR2 Digest Toyota mods Hi all, I appologise if this question has been be discussed to death at some previous time. Has anyone gone through the excercise of comparing Koni adjustable struts to Tokico Illumina adjustable struts? I would appreciate any feedback before I invest hard earned dollars. Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: '87 to '89 MR2 Catalogs wanted To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 00:38:06 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Hi All, I'm looking for the original catalogs for the '87, '88, and '89 MR2's. Please email me if you have these and want to sell them or if you know how I can get them. Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: '85 MR2 Fenders Wanted To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 00:41:09 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Hi, I'm having a lot of trouble finding fenders for my '85 MR2. If anyone has any for sale, or if you know where I can get a set, please email me. Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 09:10:36 -0700 From: John Ulvila To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Hi! My name is John Ulvila and I am a 35 year old Systems Administrator in Ukiah, CA, USA. In October 1995, I purchased a used 1991 MR-2, with the normally aspirated 5S-FE engine and @56k miles. There do not appear to be any mods made to the car prior to my purchase, and I have done nothing since Initially, when I bought the car, it was because it was in my price range, looked good, and was fun to drive (I also own a Ford Escort...). I have since fallen in love with the car, and my purpose of joining this mailing list is to find out what performance modifications are available, or that other people have done. I regret to say, at this point, that I have nothing to offer to the list other than an interest in making my car perform better. John. julvila@pacific.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 14:23:40 -0500 To: aly abulkheir , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: '85 MR2 Fenders Wanted Just to clarify matters - in the 5 years I've driven my 3 MR2s, I have not *once* EVER seen an MR2 in a salvage yard without front-end damage. It took me about 20 trips (going once a week, or os) before I found the plastic black trim that goes around the headlight cover - they had been removed to repaint the car before I bought it (used), and the idiots didn't put a few of the more 'obvious' trim peices back on, I guess since the lights were down they didn't think to put them on. For some reason, I think the ratio was about 5:1 for passenger's side damage to driver's side damage. I don't know if it was statistics, driving style, etc, but the damage was always on one side. And any rear end damage seemed to have been 'secondary' - the MR2 hit something, and the person behind couldn't stop in time, and was rear-ended. People, if you ever wanted to be sobered up into driving reality with MR2s, go to a "u-pick 'em" salvage yard, and check out the MR2s - I saw a lot of vehicles were the driver was most obviously dead at the scene. People sliding into stuff on the driver's side, steering wheels pushed into driver's seats, stuff like that. Scary, it will defintely remind you of your own mortality. I have a fender, but it has a *minor* crease on the center of the wheel well, from my wfie running into 'wheel stops;. Since I believe you are looking for 'almost new' quality, either I hope you have a lot of time (or luck), or you might just have to buy new from Toyota. Good luck. Steve B. >Hi, > I'm having a lot of trouble finding fenders for my '85 MR2. If >anyone has any for sale, or if you know where I can get a set, please email >me. > > Thanks, > > Aly > '85 MR2 > abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 22:15:21 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall) Subject: me/mine/mods Name : David McCristall Location: Vancouver Canada Model : 1986 MR2 (oct. 1985) Engine : 4AGE (Brand New) Mods : K&N filtercharger, Ultra flow muffler, Redline MTL Email : mmccrist@cln.bc.ca I've owned my Mr2 for one and a half years and am quite happy with it the handling is quite good and power is sufficient (looking for more). I have a used 4AGE with 80k miles for sale if anyone is intrested it has a rebuilt head but now needs a ring job. I'm open to offers or input on its value. I look forward to this list and have a great intrest in learning as much as possible about modifying the best carss in the world Toyotas. McCristall Telephone 604 533-4098 Fax 604 533-7998 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Autocrosses in the NY Area To: 103617.1033@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Lawrence M. Saccone Jr.) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:00:25 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Aly, > I'd be interested in competing in an autocross, are there any > in the Long Island area? > Later, > Larry S. > 91' MR2 Turbo > Larry, As a matter of fact there are. Two have already passed, but there will be one more that is already scheduled at the Nassau Colliseum on Sunday, August 11th in Lot 8. As usual, registration opens at 9am and the first car is off at 11am. Here is a list of the autocrosses in the tri-state (NY,NJ,CT) area that I know of: July 7th, Yonkers Raceway, Yonkers, NY July 14th, SUNY Purchase, Purchase, NY August 11th, Nassau Colliseum, Hempstead, Long Island, NY August 18th, SUNY Purchase August 18th, Waterbury Higher Education Center, Waterbury, CT September 15, SUNY Purchase September 22, Waterbury October 13, Waterbury If you would like more info on these autocrosses and/or directions, please email me. Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 21:14:17 +0000 From: Erik Berg To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: erik.berg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE>Wheel mods Phil, As another alternative, have you considered getting hubs with a 4.25" pattern? Dave Bean Engineering has built custom aluminum hubs for people running various different pattern wheels on 7s, Elans, etc. I would like to hear what you conclude regarding the fit of the inserts (I assume they would be steel?) Your approach of comparing valve seats in an aluminum head as a reference point, sounds reasonable to me. You metioned "mags". Are those cosmics really magnesium (drool...) erik.berg@trw.com LA, CA '90 Miata, '64 Elan which may receive a 3S-GTE ------------------------------ Date: 6/24/96 8:05 PM To: Berg, Erik From: Phil Bradshaw OK, all you budding metallurgists: I need to modify the stud pattern from 4.5" PCD to 4.25" on some used alloy wheels I picked up yesterday. To do this I need to plug the existing holes. Any ideas on the degree of interference fit most suitable for cast alumium alloy? I have no intention of welding the wheels. The plugs will have three stepped shoulders decreasing from about 1" to 0.5" diameter. The wheels are 'Cosmic' 5.5 x 14 inch, and were used (in 13" form) as original fitment on some Lotus 7s, hence my interest in modifying them - no 14" exists in the right pcd. Alternatively, anyone know what grade alloy was most likely used in the 70s for mags? If I know this I can research the max stress the ally will take without fracture and hence the degree of interference fit. What sort of fit do valve seat inserts use? (Admittedly the alloy used in heads and temperature range is different). Finally, how much run out should a wheel have both concentrically and axially? I intend to machine the mags true but dunno how accurate to strive for. They are in really good condition but I intend to restore them to as new. I'm going away for a week from Thurday so replies may be tardy. Thanks Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint (Lotus 7 replica) 20 Valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 13:34:13 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Wheel mods OK, all you budding metallurgists: I need to modify the stud pattern from 4.5" PCD to 4.25" on some used alloy wheels I picked up yesterday. To do this I need to plug the existing holes. Any ideas on the degree of interference fit most suitable for cast alumium alloy? I have no intention of welding the wheels. The plugs will have three stepped shoulders decreasing from about 1" to 0.5" diameter. The wheels are 'Cosmic' 5.5 x 14 inch, and were used (in 13" form) as original fitment on some Lotus 7s, hence my interest in modifying them - no 14" exists in the right pcd. Alternatively, anyone know what grade alloy was most likely used in the 70s for mags? If I know this I can research the max stress the ally will take without fracture and hence the degree of interference fit. What sort of fit do valve seat inserts use? (Admittedly the alloy used in heads and temperature range is different). Finally, how much run out should a wheel have both concentrically and axially? I intend to machine the mags true but dunno how accurate to strive for. They are in really good condition but I intend to restore them to as new. I'm going away for a week from Thurday so replies may be tardy. Thanks Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint (Lotus 7 replica) 20 Valve 4AGE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 21:45:39 -0400 To: AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies Um, why don't you just rebuild the one you have? Robert '85 MK1 179k miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 00:31:08 +0000 From: Erik Berg To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Toyota powered Lotuses Warning... very long message. Some Toyota content. Phil, Regarding Toyota power in an Elan, of course you're right; there are plenty of Lotus purists who will consider that sacrilegious. That's OK for them. Smokey Yunick said "an engine doesn't care what name is on its valve cover". Honest gearheads who see their cars primarily as devices to be used, not status symbols, will be able to relate to Toyota power in an Elan. Especially honest gearheads who are also engineers... conditioned by their vocation to think in terms of bang for the buck. The same philosophy allows many of us to think of a Caterham or Leitch Supersprint as equivalent to (hell, better than) a Seven... despite what might be considered by originality addicts as a lack of breeding. IMHO originality arguments in relation to Lotuses are really missing the point. Loyalty to the Marque ought to be secondary to an understanding of Chapman's basic philosophy: BANG FOR THE BUCK. Pardon my indulgence. Regarding wheels, yes I do see your logic. Nothing like interchangability. I don't have an informed opinion about taper inserts vs tubenuts, except that it does seem most of the higher quality alloy wheels use taper inserts these days... your reasoning about taper inserts locating more positively certainly makes sense. I have to admit total ignorance regarding Dunlop wheels... what did they come on? What do they look like? Regarding the 20 valve engine, yes the 4AG and its derivatives were once at the top of my list, after an initial hallucinogenic period involving rotaries and even 215 V8s. My requirements set includes 200BHP, and it is intended to be a 50,000+ mile engine. Knowing that the breathing of the 4AG head is up to the task, I delved into the details of how to increase its displacement. I concluded the following (comments invited) 1) The bore spacing is darn narrow. (Makes a wonderfully compact engine, but good luck increasing the bore!) 2) The (stock) rods are too short to increase the stroke much. 3) One way to get to 1800cc, would be to adapt the head to a 7AFE short block. Involves tinkering with the drive belt geometry. Rumor has it that the 7AFE has longer rods. Have yet to confirm this. (Anyone on Toyota-Mods know more about this?) 4) Increasing it over 1800cc requires big dollars (e.g. a billet crank), and would result in a terribly undersquare engine. Does the 1800cc 20 valve engine you mentioned use the same block configuration as the 7AFE (i.e. the 81 bore x 85.5 stroke)? How long are its rods? Why not use the 4AGZE? Well, OK it might be a good solution. What has made me wary of this is that it basically makes horsepower with gobs of torque, not with revs, and I'm concerned about breaking the relatively fragile Elan differential and stub axle components. Is it possible to hop up the 4AGZE by doing things with the ports and cams, to make it produce at high revs, rather than by overdriving the blower to make it into a torque monster? And what is the rev limit of the blower? Also I don't know if the throttle response of the 4AGZE would be up to what I would need, in a very light car with delicate trailing throttle balance. It must have considerable rotating inertia. But I'm really speculating here... anyone on Toyota-Mods have informed opinions? Anyway, I reluctantly moved on to the consideration of bigger 4 cylinder engines, because a normally aspirated 200BHP 1800cc 4AG derived engine, using 92 octane gas, be it 5 valve or 4 valve, would probably have to rev out to 8300 RPM, which seems highly implausible at an 85.5mm stroke. So, I am now in the midst of comparing a bunch of 2.0 litre engines. The 3SG has a forged crank, and a head design very similar to the 4AG. 86 bore x 86 stroke. Iron block, pretty tall overall (may not fit without a bonnet bulge... gaak) and somewhat limited hot rod parts availability. I'm also considering the Nissan SR20DE. 86 bore x 86 stroke. Alloy block, forged crank (maybe only on the turbo version... don't know yet) and it is not as tall as the 3SG. But unfortunately, it uses rocker arms, which supposedly break at 7200 RPM. The Mitsubishi and Chrysler (they are NOT the same!) 2.0 litre engines both use rockers too. The Chrysler has nice oversquare dimensions (87.5 bore x 83 stroke) and direct ignition, but uses a cast crank. It also has uses a very interesting integral main bearing / transverse web subassembly called a "bedplate". Sort of the ultimate main bearing girdle. Don't know much about the Mitsu yet, except it is undersquare. Probe / MX6? Don't know about this yet. Honda? The VTEC engines are awfully impressive. But I have heard that all Honda production car engines turn the wrong direction (!) Comments? erik.berg@trw.com LA, CA '90 Miata '64 Elan ------------------------------ Date: 6/25/96 2:09 PM To: Berg, Erik From: Phil Bradshaw Erik, Thanks for your e-mail. Yes, I considered changing the hub/axle to 4.5" PCD, but discounted it as I have a large collection of 4.25 PCD wheels and would like to maintain the interchangeability (even though the car will be almost exclusively on the 14s). Additionally I only have four 14 inch cosmics, although I have another seven 13 inch cosmics, in both 5.5 and 6" width (4.25 PCD) that are ex rally car and a little tatty, but not so far as to exclude restoration via a light skim on a lathe. (I also have 10 Dunlop wheels - 4 of which are cracked due to ignorant previous owners forcing them onto hubs with insufficient centre boss clearance). Basically, the spare will have to be 13" to suit the mag design (and run a different profile tyre to keep diameter). I don't intend to rotate the spare. I would rather change the four 14s than lose the present interchangeability. If I was going to go to custom alloy hubs etc I would probably change the uprights and go fully independent etc etc - maybe next car (when someone steals this one - no luck yet!). I would also go to a more common (metric) PCD to utilise the japanese/Australian 14-15-16" wheels available. It is just hard to find wheels that really suit a seven, hence my preference for the classics (Dunlp and Cosmics - every man and his dog has minilite replicas on sevens over here - dare to be different!). As I will be moving each hole only 1/8", effectively I will be placing an insert within an insert (although they will not be concentric)(if I stay with taper seat nuts). There is presently a steel taper seat insert in the wheel, which itself is recessed below the surface of the wheel. I will either remove the insert and plug the hole flush, before replacing the taper insert without recessing (to maximise the material - the wheel is about 5/8" thick at the 'hub'), or I will use tube nuts (which have a parallel shank), in which case I will merely plug the holes (after removing the inserts) and drill a hole of constant diameter for the tubenut, with a slight spotface for the nut washer. I will do a post when finished advising the details - will be a couple of months - back burner project. You can also mail order alloy hubs from Merlin Motorsport at Castle Combe Circuit in UK - a friend has some, but they were very poorly toleranced. I was planning on alloy inserts that are heavy interference fit (and will never pull through due to the steps in the present insert holes) backed up with some studlock or similar. The only steel would be the taper inserts (if re-used). I would prefer to use the taper inserts, as they provide slightly better location and prevent alloy abrasion, however the tubenuts would leave more material. Comments please. The Cosmics are alluminum alloy - in NZ we refer to all alloy wheels as 'mags', although 'alloys' is taking over. Apologies for the confusion! Finally, I am intrigued by your plans to put a 3SGE in the Elan (Don't let the purists hear of it - Elans are rare as here!) Have you been followig the posts over the RWD installation of the 3SGE? Its pretty common over here in the 7 replicas. I have a couple of friends doing it, with different approaches. Personally, I think the 20 valve is a better proposition, if you can get one. It is a cheaper conversion, and more powerful than the majority of 3SGEs. The new 1800 cc version should be even better... Sorry this is so long. Thanks for your comments. Phil. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 20:48:36 -0700 To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Aric Shen Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies Well, I'm not sure about the going rate of a complete rebuild, but a used transmission is only going to cost me $225. Which brings me to two more questions: 1. What causes 5th gear to pop out of gear when the transmission starts going bad ? Is it easily curable or is it a sign of more to come ? 2. Are all MkI transmissions the same (besides the SC) ? Meaning, could I use a 1989 5 speed trans on my 86 ? At 09:45 PM 6/24/96 -0400, REESE001@aol.com wrote: >Um, why don't you just rebuild the one you have? > >Robert >'85 MK1 179k miles xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 96 04:40:46 UT From: "BRAD BEDELL" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Brad Bedell Dallas, TX , USA MR2 3SGTE Mods: port & poligh head, TD06 turbo w/20G wheel, custom intercooler, 3sge intake (off celica) ceramic coated head/pistons/ ex manifold/ turbine housing/ custom clutch/ supra fuel pump/ HKS exhaust/ HKS VPC/ HKS FCD/ Trust Speed cut controller/ S.T. sway bars/ intrax springs/ GAB struts/ energy suspension bushings/ aeroware bodykit/ 17" wheels/ 275 40 17 rear/ 235 40 17 front/ and much more. BradBedell@msn.com Thanks, Brad Bedell xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 16:42:41 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Rod ratio theory & practice. Hiya all, I'm curious to know if anyone anyone has had some experience on using longer or shorter con-rods in there engines, and what effect on power (If any) there was. In theory, as I understand it, basically the longer the rod the more power the engine makes. (Up to a point, of course! ;) FWIW, I know about the increased piston dwell at TDC. Lemme know, guyz & girlz. TIA, The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole on the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 00:04:45 -0700 To: "BRAD BEDELL" , From: Aric Shen Subject: Re: me/mine/mods Pretty impressive list, what kind of quarter mile times do you run with that set up ? At 04:40 AM 6/26/96 UT, BRAD BEDELL wrote: > Brad Bedell >Dallas, TX , USA >MR2 >3SGTE >Mods: port & poligh head, TD06 turbo w/20G wheel, custom intercooler, 3sge >intake (off celica) ceramic coated head/pistons/ ex manifold/ turbine housing/ >custom clutch/ supra fuel pump/ HKS exhaust/ HKS VPC/ HKS FCD/ Trust Speed cut >controller/ S.T. sway bars/ intrax springs/ GAB struts/ energy suspension >bushings/ aeroware bodykit/ 17" wheels/ 275 40 17 rear/ 235 40 17 front/ and >much more. >BradBedell@msn.com > >Thanks, > >Brad Bedell > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Koni vs Tokico To: pitaro@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 00:40:54 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I don't have experience with Tokico Illuminas but I just got Koni's installed in my car a week ago. I'm sure they both do the same thing, but the Koni does not have preset settings like Illuminas. It comes with a knob that you can adjust to whatever you want it to be. HOwever, some Koni's are also ride height adjustable, which is a bonus. Mine are not, sadly. If it weren't for the ride-height adjustment feature on some Koni's I would just get Illumina's and probably save some money. Richard leongc@sfu.ca '86 Celica GTS > > Addressed to: MR2 Digest > Toyota mods > > Hi all, > > I appologise if this question has been be discussed to death at some > previous time. Has anyone gone through the excercise of comparing > Koni adjustable struts to Tokico Illumina adjustable struts? I would > appreciate any feedback before I invest hard earned dollars. > > Regards, > Harry Pitaro > > Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 > _____________________ > pitaro@ozemail.com.au > Melbourne, Australia > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: BBRANDT@tcmail.frco.com Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:22:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Toyota powered Lotuses To: Erik Berg , Erik, You write snip Also I don't know if the throttle response of the 4AGZE would be up to what I would need, in a very light car with delicate trailing throttle balance. It must have considerable rotating inertia. But I'm really speculating here... anyone on Toyota-Mods have informed opinions? snip Are you forgetting the 4AG, may actually be 4AGZ based, powered Toyota Atlantic racers. I think that they are currently making in excess of 200hp out of 1600cc. Maybe you should look into what they are doing. Just my $.02 Bruce Brandt 89SC MR2 T-Tops bbrandt@tcmail.frco.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 26 Jun 1996 10:59:30 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: Toyota powered Lotuses To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" , Reply to: RE>>Toyota powered Lotuses Bruce, thanks for your comments. Well, yes I am aware that the 4AG is the Atlantic motor. It is from that context that I came to my original interest in the 4AG. The Atlantic engines produce considerably over 200 hp, but on 12.7:1 compression ratio. They wind well over 9500 RPM. Valvetrain inertial loading goes as the square of RPM. They are maybe 10 hour engines. I want a 50,000 mile engine. erik.berg@trw.com ------------------------------ Date: 6/26/96 8:49 AM To: Berg, Erik From: BBRANDT@TCMAIL.FRCO.COM Erik, You write snip Also I don't know if the throttle response of the 4AGZE would be up to what I would need, in a very light car with delicate trailing throttle balance. It must have considerable rotating inertia. But I'm really speculating here... anyone on Toyota-Mods have informed opinions? snip Are you forgetting the 4AG, may actually be 4AGZ based, powered Toyota Atlantic racers. I think that they are currently making in excess of 200hp out of 1600cc. Maybe you should look into what they are doing. Just my $.02 Bruce Brandt 89SC MR2 T-Tops bbrandt@tcmail.frco.com ------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------ Received: by qmgate.trw.com with SMTP;26 Jun 1996 08:38:42 -0700 Received: from CyberSpace.CyberAuto.Com by mailhub1.trw.com; Wed, 26 Jun 96 08:44:44 -0700 Received: (from root@localhost) by cyberspace.cyberauto.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id KAA01121 for toyota-mods-outgoing; Wed, 26 Jun 1996 10:36:09 -0400 From: BBRANDT@TCMAIL.FRCO.COM Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:22:23 -0500 Message-ID: <1d14b130@tcmail.frco.com> Subject: Re: Toyota powered Lotuses To: Erik Berg , toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Content-Description: cc:Mail note part Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com Precedence: bulk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 14:12:29 -0500 (CDT) From: Dave Hillman To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name : David Hillman Location : Chicago, IL Model : None yet, but lemme 'xplain. I'm considering the purchase of an normally aspirated Mark II MR-2, initially for SCCA Showroom Stock racing, with plans to move to IT eventually. Hope to glean some of the best information available, before I leap. That is, I intend to lurk and learn. Email : d-hillman@uchicago.edu / david.hillman@cna.com -- David Hillman 1991 alfa romeo 164l | aroc, nma xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 19:53:15 +0000 From: Erik Berg To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: byrd@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE>>Rod ratio theory & practice. Ahh, Dick, I'm afraid you may have mistaken the intent of Bill's question. I think his implicit assumption would be that the stroke, compression, etc. would be adjusted to be the same; he's asking what would happen if only the rod length were different. Smokey Yunick (among others) says that based on direct experience the horsepower goes up as the rod length goes up, and it is a non-trivial increase. (Up to a point.) Personally I've never seen a good explanation of this phenomenon, based on theory. Can anyone on the list provide an answer to Bill's question? It's one I've wondered about too. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 21:29:50 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: Speedo Recalibration I have an RA28 celica, and have just put 195 60/14 tyres on it. Now when going down the freeway my speedo says 140km/h and I know I am only going about 115-120km/h. Is there any way of recalibrating the speedo without changing the gear ratio in the diff. Please help me!! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:05:05 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Real engines for Lotuses (was Toyota powered Lotuses) OK good people, here's a rumour for you: Apparently the MR2 grew out of a failed project Lotus was working on for a midengined car - and Lotus was very interested in the 4AGE when it was being developed. Down to business. Apologies for the length. The 1800 cc 20 valve was released last year in a concept car at the Tokyo(?) motorshow. From the single paragraph article I read I assumed they just increased the stroke and bolted the present head on (but really have no idea). I dunno if the engine is in production yet. Certainly in 1995 the 20 valve was still in 1600 cc form. There is a turbo version that develops 195hp stock, but I have never seen one. My eyes are peeled! >3) One way to get to 1800cc, would be to adapt the head to a 7AFE short >block. Involves tinkering with the drive belt geometry. Rumor has it >that the 7AFE has longer rods. Have yet to confirm this. (Anyone on >Toyota-Mods know more about this?) Very interesting - is it possible? >Does the 1800cc 20 valve engine you mentioned use the same block >configuration as the 7AFE (i.e. the 81 bore x 85.5 stroke)? How long are >its rods? Sorry, no idea and I dunno where to look. It is too early for these engines (1800 20V) to be here yet - generally it is about 2-3 years before we get a model here in big numbers (the Japanese that buy them new have to sell them first!) >Why not use the 4AGZE? Well, OK it might be a good solution. What has >made me wary of this is that it basically makes horsepower with gobs of >torque, not with revs, and I'm concerned about breaking the relatively >fragile Elan differential and stub axle components. I'd be worried about this anyway! Why not change the diff to Ford Sierra Cosworth Turbo? (sold as a Mercury something in the US) - apparently they are very light but can take a lot of grunt (turbo versions). Just modify the half shafts etc - although obviously not a 5 minute job (if indeed possible). > >Is it possible to hop up the 4AGZE by doing things with the ports and >cams, to make it produce at high revs, rather than by overdriving the >blower to make it into a torque monster? And what is the rev limit of >the blower? I believe reliability = using a motor in stock form - just pick one that delivers what you want in terms of HP. It is also considerably cheaper, and you don't have to mess with it to get it to run properly, or eliminate flat spots, etc. (Can I borrow your nomex?!) >Also I don't know if the throttle response of the 4AGZE would be up to >what I would need, in a very light car with delicate trailing throttle >balance. It must have considerable rotating inertia. But I'm really >speculating here... anyone on Toyota-Mods have informed opinions? Some maniacs here run this engine in sevens and live to tell the tale! Apparently there is an electomagnetic coupling on the huffer that they turf and use a direct drive to gain boost accross the rev range. As an aside, I believe the supercharged MR2s wear clutches out fairly rapidly, but I guess that's just a case of going to a heavier duty race one. The 3SGE could be dry sumped to lower it in the car, (and I believe turning them north-south often leads to oil problems, so dry sump may be a bonus) and you can chop down the cam covers to lower the overall height. As fitted to sevens over here the 3SGE is about as tall as a 4AGE, however the injection manifold is not used - they normally resort to carbies. The injection manifold can apparently be cut and rotated 180 degrees so it folds down beside the block rather than up over the head. As I have said before, I would be tempted to rustle up my own manifold runners welded to the standard manifold end plates. >I'm also considering the Nissan SR20DE. 86 bore x 86 stroke. Alloy >block, forged crank (maybe only on the turbo version... don't know yet) >and it is not as tall as the 3SG. But unfortunately, it uses rocker >arms, which supposedly break at 7200 RPM. There is also a seven here runing the Nissan 200X turbo motor - I guess that is this motor. If you keep it standard, surely you won't have a problem? I guess it must be around 200 horse. Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a japanese client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse = 700 horse per ton). Another option perhaps? >Honda? The VTEC engines are awfully impressive. But I have heard that >all Honda production car engines turn the wrong direction (!) I am only 2 kW down on the CRX V-Tec (at least I was when they came out). Yes, aparently they do turn the wrong way. Just turn your diff upside down to get the crown wheel on the opposite side of the pinion! Of course, once you have mated a gearbox up to it, it will spend its life being driven backwards - will it actually work like this? Something to mull over. Back on line 9 July Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint - Just like a Lotus but better engineered! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:05:26 +1200 To: Erik Berg , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Dunlop Alloys Let the fight begin! I agree with the sentiment of using the best technology - which is precisely why I didn't bother buying a 'real' series 4 Lotus 7 - by the time I would have completed modifying the damn thing to get it to be a decent car it would have cost me more than my toy and still not been as good! BTW - a company in Christchurch bought one set of series 4 moulds when Lotus stopped making them and produced 100 or so here in the 70s, so they are quite common. They even modified one to run a Lotus 907 2 litre... >I have to admit total ignorance regarding Dunlop wheels... what did they >come on? What do they look like? The Dunlop alloys were just another aftermarket wheel in the late 60s, but not as well known as minilites. They do not have the safety beading inside the rim to stop the tire moving inwards, although the cosmics do. I have never seen pictures of a factory Lotus 7 on minilites, only Caterhams, yet somehow they have become the wheel of choice, probably because you can still buy them new! Mine were manufactured 1969 and 1970, however they appear to have been factory fitment on the series 3 Lotus Twin Cam SS Seven, 13 of which were built, each with a Holbay head. A rifle thru any lotus 7 book should show them. (at least, I have seen photos of three SSs and Dunlops were on all of them). The wheels have 8 radial ribs with a triangular slot between each rib. In section the face of the wheel is slightly S shaped. Best you look at a book! The centre caps have the Dunlop D on them. They were black with polished rib and rim faces. Phil xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 20:11:58 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: Thinking about a triple Rotor Lotus At 10:57 AM 6/27/96 -0700, you wrote: > >> Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a japanese >> client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse = 700 >> horse per ton). Another option perhaps? > >Ouch Good heavens (although not Toyota related) this car ought to be a real eyeball flattener. Tell me more, if you can... Later, Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net '89 MR2 n/a '79 RX-7 GS '83 RX-7 GSL xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 21:30:30 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) Subject: Re: Rod ratio theory & practice. Bill Sherwood writes: > I'm curious to know if anyone anyone has had some experience on >using longer or shorter con-rods in there engines, and what effect on power >(If any) there was. In theory, as I understand it, basically the longer the >rod the more power the engine makes. (Up to a point, of course! ;) >FWIW, I know about the increased piston dwell at TDC. - - - - - - - - - - - - - If all you did was replace the rods with longer rods the pistons would go through the head. That doesn't add much power, does it? If you increase the stroke, you may need shorter rods or a different piston pin height to compensate. The added stroke increases displacement and will increse power. Dick Byrd byrd@mnsinc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 20:54:58 -0500 To: Bruce Crawford , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Thinking about a triple Rotor Lotus >>> Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a japanese >>> client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse = 700 >>> horse per ton). Another option perhaps? >> >>Ouch > >Good heavens (although not Toyota related) this car ought to be a real >eyeball flattener. Tell me more, if you can... > >Later, > >Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net Wouldn't little things like *traction* need to be addressed here? :) Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:27:50 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Wheel mods At 01:34 PM 25/06/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >OK, all you budding metallurgists: > >I need to modify the stud pattern from 4.5" PCD to 4.25" on some used alloy >wheels I picked up yesterday. To do this I need to plug the existing holes. >Any ideas on the degree of interference fit most suitable for cast alumium >alloy? I have no intention of welding the wheels. The plugs will have three >stepped shoulders decreasing from about 1" to 0.5" diameter. The wheels are >'Cosmic' 5.5 x 14 inch, and were used (in 13" form) as original fitment on >some Lotus 7s, hence my interest in modifying them - no 14" exists in the >right pcd. > Phil you might want ot investigate redrilling the hub flange instead and inserting new studs. Much easier and probably safer. I have done this and I have had no problems regards Liam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:27:53 +1200 (NZST) To: "Erik Berg" , From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Toyota powered Lotuses At 10:59 AM 26/06/96 -0700, Erik Berg wrote: > Reply to: RE>>Toyota powered Lotuses > >Bruce, thanks for your comments. > >Well, yes I am aware that the 4AG is the Atlantic motor. It is from that context that I came to my original interest in the 4AG. > >The Atlantic engines produce considerably over 200 hp, but on 12.7:1 compression ratio. They wind well over 9500 RPM. Valvetrain inertial loading goes as the square of RPM. They are maybe 10 hour engines. > >I want a 50,000 mile engine. >erik.berg@trw.com >------------------------------ >Date: 6/26/96 8:49 AM >To: Berg, Erik >From: BBRANDT@TCMAIL.FRCO.COM > >Erik If you saw what the 3sge powered lotus 7's do to my 4age powered car on the race track you would be impressed. Although I am lighter and have better aerodynamics. don't just compare horsepower figures teh 3sge is very torquey in comparison. The acceleration out ot the corners is mind blowing. I have two friends one with a very powerful 4age. Highlift formulat Atlantic cams and high compression pistons, etc. The other guy has a mildly tuned 3sge. Both are lotus 7 replicas. On is very expensive to run. Needs rebuilding every few race meetings the other is reliable and low maintenance. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:32:24 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Rod ratio theory & practice. Hiya all, I've gotten a couple of responses to my request for info on rod ratio. To save a bit of time - yes, I _am_ aware that a longer rod will make the piston stick out of the top of the block. C'mon guys, gimme some credit here - I'm not _that_ stupid! Let's rephrase the request - I'm after some hard info on people who have had experience with increasing their rod-to-stroke ratio, and the effects thereof. Ta, The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole on the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:32:31 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Toyota powered Lotuses Hiya Erik, Some probably useless info for you - >My requirements set includes 200BHP, and it is intended to be a 50,000+ >mile engine. Knowing that the breathing of the 4AG head is up to the >task, I delved into the details of how to increase its displacement. I >concluded the following (comments invited) > >1) The bore spacing is darn narrow. (Makes a wonderfully compact >engine, but good luck increasing the bore!) >2) The (stock) rods are too short to increase the stroke much. >3) One way to get to 1800cc, would be to adapt the head to a 7AFE short >block. Involves tinkering with the drive belt geometry. Rumor has it >that the 7AFE has longer rods. Have yet to confirm this. (Anyone on >Toyota-Mods know more about this?) >4) Increasing it over 1800cc requires big dollars (e.g. a billet crank), >and would result in a terribly undersquare engine. > I have heard of a pretty enthusiastic guy in northern Australia who wanted to do much the same sort of thing for his speedway car. To cut a long story short, he actually built his own block to fit under the big port 4AGE head. The block was made from thick sheet alloy and had removeable bores. It was 2.5 litres capacity. But to more specifically answer your question - I'd stick with Toyota, (Of course! :) by modifying a 3SGE. I'd fit it with the biggest pistons available and do the other usual '3C' mods to increase power - cams, compression, computer. You'd get 100hp/litre easy. Phil Bradshaws' notion of dry sumping it is also most sensible, but great care must be taken in the design of the system to ensure reliability (Eg, can you leave it for a week or two and still get the scavenge pump to prime?, etc) and at least as important - NO BLOODY LEAKS!! ;) I'll also post this to Toyota mods as well. Regards, The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole on the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 22:40:51 -0700 Subject: Re: RE>>Rod ratio theory & practice. To: Erik Berg , On Wed, 26 Jun 1996, Erik Berg wrote: >Smokey Yunick (among others) says that based on direct experience the >horsepower goes up as the rod length goes up, and it is a non-trivial >increase. (Up to a point.) > >Personally I've never seen a good explanation of this phenomenon, based >on theory. Can anyone on the list provide an answer to Bill's question? >It's one I've wondered about too. >erik.berg@trw.com Here's a stab at it: The mixture will for the most part always burn at a constant rate. As revs increase, a shorter rod allows the piston to move down before full combustion can occur. Since the squish is maintained for a longer period, the longer rod allows the extraction of more power at higher rpms, but similarily sacrifices some low end torque. Sound plausible? Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 27 Jun 1996 00:21:34 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: RE>>Rod ratio theory & To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" Reply to: RE>>RE>>Rod ratio theory & practice. Kip, you wrote: >The mixture will for the most part always burn at a constant rate. As revs >increase, a shorter rod allows the piston to move down before full combustion >can occur. Since the squish is maintained for a longer period, the longer rod >allows the extraction of more power at higher rpms, but similarily sacrifices >some low end torque. >Sound plausible? Well yes, it sounds quite plausible. Sort of thinking out loud, let me struggle to fill in more detail... Peak cylinder pressure happens at the instant the last bit of mixture is consumed. If the squish has not been maintained during the burn, the peak cylinder pressure would be less, because it would happen after the point of minimum volume. I can barely remember how to spell thermodynamics, but (this is a stretch) wasn't there something about the efficiency of the cycle being related to the ratio of the peak temperature to the exhaust temperature? And the peak temperature would be higher for a higher peak pressure? (Well, if I'm right so far I lucked out, big time.) Hey, this is fun... EEs pretending to know thermo ;-) ;-) OK, now for a longer rod, why would low end torque be sacrificed? erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 12:07:47 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Rod ratio theory Could it have something to do with the greater angle that a shorter rod has vs. the longer rod? I mean the degree of the angle formed where the rod connects to the piston when the piston has traveled half way down. It seems that the smaller angle would more efficiently utilize the energy from the fuel. Just a guess, what do you think? William Hall wh_hall@msn.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 27 Jun 1996 10:37:57 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: Toyota powered Lotuses To: "Bill Sherwood" , Reply to: RE>>Toyota powered Lotuses Bill, you wrote: >To cut a long story >short, he actually built his own block to fit under the big port 4AGE head. >The block was made from thick sheet alloy and had removeable bores. It was >2.5 litres capacity. Holy labors of Hercules, batman, you are saying he designed and fabricated a unique aluminum block? From scratch? And as a one-off, I would assume? For what its worth, he certainly has my respect. Actually, reverence would describe it better. Well, how about a production run? ;-) ;-) ;-) (Just kidding... I'm sure no one could afford what it would cost!) erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:42:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Real engines for Lotuses (was Toyota powered Lotuses) To: Toyota Mods > OK good people, here's a rumour for you: > > Apparently the MR2 grew out of a failed project Lotus was working on for a > midengined car - and Lotus was very interested in the 4AGE when it was being > developed. > yes .... that's one rumour. Also, yamaha had a big hand in designing the 4AG .. and maybe even hand-building the MR2s ...... : ) Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand PS. Wooohooo!!! Just got my car back after the hit-dog-then-finally-got-my-car-back- three-weeks-later-no-thanks-to-the-galactically-stupid-insurance-agent-girl ordeal .... Wow .. I'd forgotten what this car was like to drive. Now .. I know I've only got 140bhp at the rear wheels .. unlike some people on this list who have about a gizillion bhp in cars that weighs stuff all ... but .. wooo hooo .. what fun!! : ) ..... had a slight 'problem' ; ) with wheelspin at the first lights ... hehhehehehe ; ) The guy behind me probably wasn't too impressed with my slight sideways movement and the water and dirt thrown back .. hehehehee ... then he got to watch my car disappear into the distance. heheee ... well, I took it easy as it's been raining here ... think i'll go out at lunch time for another quick squirt!! : ) PPS. Our Fraser kit car (another lotus 7 replica) is arriving in three weeks!! WOO HOOO!! It must be christmas!! : ) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:57:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Real engines for Lotuses (was Toyota powered Lotuses) To: Toyota Mods Hi Phil and others > >Also I don't know if the throttle response of the 4AGZE would be up to > >what I would need, in a very light car with delicate trailing throttle > >balance. It must have considerable rotating inertia. But I'm really > >speculating here... anyone on Toyota-Mods have informed opinions? > > Some maniacs here run this engine in sevens and live to tell the tale! hehehe .. according to Neil there's only one fraser so far with a 4AGZE in it... and it's gone to japan. I've heard about them in chevrons ... but how many? > Apparently there is an electomagnetic coupling on the huffer that they turf > and use a direct drive to gain boost accross the rev range. I'm not sure if this would be such a great idea. Have the electromagnetic clutch was a great idea by toyota ... you can drive around town with a 'normal' engine and not use much petrol or waste power turning a unused blower ... actually ... it's sorta like the VTEC slogan ... "two engines in one". When you're foot is only slightly on the loud pedal ... it's a 4AGE ... when it's flat to the floor it's a 4AGZE! : ) (that's the best place for the pedal too!! : ) > As an aside, I > believe the supercharged MR2s wear clutches out fairly rapidly, but I guess > that's just a case of going to a heavier duty race one. hmmm, mine died soon after I got it. It was pulled out and turned out to have a 3 puck button clutch and a pressure plate that was way heavier than anything they had to replace it. They custom built a 4 puck button clutch for it and rebuilt the pressure plate .. (i've still got the old one in the garage). Anyway .. now it's like a binary clutch .. either on or off!! : ) It makes for huge amounts of fun when I tell mechanics that it has a racing clutch ... and they look and me (and must think ... silly girl) and then jump in my car ... stall it several times .. and finally get going when they give it heaps ..... hehehehehhehehehehehheee : ) > Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a japanese > client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse = 700 > horse per ton). Another option perhaps? Ouch > >Honda? The VTEC engines are awfully impressive. But I have heard that > >all Honda production car engines turn the wrong direction (!) > > I am only 2 kW down on the CRX V-Tec (at least I was when they came out). > Yes, aparently they do turn the wrong way. Just turn your diff upside down > to get the crown wheel on the opposite side of the pinion! Of course, once > you have mated a gearbox up to it, it will spend its life being driven > backwards - will it actually work like this? hehehehehhehehee .. and honda's don't make rear wheel drive cars so you'll have a hard time finding a gearbox (it dont' they mind which way they turn?) Later Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car Fraser kit car ... Lotus 7 replica .. yet to arrive AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 14:11:53 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Disc pads for AE 86's To the list, To those that know Motor Racing in Australia Keith Selton must be the number one man in brakes. In the last month I have convinced him to start making AE 86 brake pads from DP-11 compound so we have some chance of stopping our cars with standard disks and without wearing the disks out. To make these pads he is cutting down larger ones, the cost is around $150. For those that know this compound its not hard on the disks and certainly holds up better than Bendix Metal King and is more consistant than Black Flash. In the past you had to import the stuff from the US or the UK or use Kevlar. Give Keith a call on 03 9 578 0502. I have already seen this compound on AE 82 and AE 92 where it is manditory on the longer tracks. Bruce Connelly add xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: 7A-FE data To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 01:14:53 +0300 (EET DST) Info provided to me by Mike Dowe, 7A-FE vs. 4A-FE: The engine was stroked by adding 15.4mm to the deck, The crankshaft is Vanadium steel and the radius from the crank c/l to the throw c/l is 42.75 mm vs 4AFE 38.5mm a two layer stainless steel head gasket is used rod hole diameters and piston pin diameters are also larger 51.0mm vs 43.0mm and 20.0mm vs 18.0mm the rod is 10.5 mm longer -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 222hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: reyb@wildcat.sandiegoca.ncr.com Subject: power steering hose To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota Mods) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:28:28 -0700 (PDT) Anybody ever make their own? The reason that I ask is that my parent's '90 V6 Camry recently blew the high pressure hose coming off of the power steering pump and the puppy costs $170. So, with that cost in mind I've been thinking of alternatives such as: o Remove/cut the metal sleeve that is crimping the hose onto the fittings and hopefully be able to buy some cheap power steering hose and use standard hose clamps to hold them on. Think those standard hose clamps can handle mega psi's? o Bring the broken hose to a heavy equipment/hydraulic repair shop and see if they can replace the hose. o Bite the bullet. :( Thanks, -Rey- ======================================================== Rey Berin Phone: (619) 485-3285 NCR Corporation Fax: (619) 485-3010 17095 Via Del Campo San Diego, CA 92127 Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM ======================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 23:29:56 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: MKI Mods Hi folks... I haven't written in a while but I've been busy, so I thought I'd share a little of my recent findings... As many of you know I recently switched my second MR2 from auto to 5-speed. When I did this my butt told me this car seemed very fast! :) I straight-lined it against Chris B's '88 (only 39K) miles and I had a bumper on him until 6000 rpm where he started pulling away. I was totally stock except for a K&N filter and he has a TRD header/Monza exhuast/intake box removed with K&N donut/EGR plugged. Needless to say I was pleased, and decided to make this my race car. Now to the good stuff. I needed to switch all the performance parts from my silver car to the Loog, and after the Great Header Debate I decided the last thing I would do is switch the header. Thus far I've replaced the stock filter with K&N, installed the HKS exhaust, installed Magnecor wires/cap/rotor/NGK plugs, removed the airbox in favor of the Powermax setup and pulled the EGR. I did these in that order so I could see what they do (please note these are "butt" measurements, not terribly scientific): 1) K&N donut in stock airbox: Did this before I drove the car as a 5-speed... can't really judge. 2) HKS Exhaust: Improved midrange power, maybe a little on the top end but not much, nice exhaust note that sounds better without the header than it did with the header on the silver car. 3) Magnecor/plugs/etc: Smoothed out rough idle (cap was pretty bad, plugs were the worst I've ever seen) and improved throttle response slightly. This may have helped what I found in step #4. 4) Intake/EGR: Improved across the entire power band. I don't get the same intake noise I did with the header... now it's much more linear and I don't get the TVIS "pop" I got with the header. It's also not as loud. I still need to move my HKS light flywheel over to the new car, and sitting the cars next to each other and revving them makes it clear that I want to do this soon! The argument was made that most of the performance gains I got when I swapped header/flywheel at the same time was due to the flywheel... after hearing the two cars side by side I do believe this may be the case. The Loogie seems to take forever to rev up and then slow down to idle, where the silver car just goes up and down NOW, even with stock intake and exhaust! Neat. Incidentally the intake/exhaust mods seem to have made the rev times slightly better on the Loog than in stock form. Tomorrow I hope to run my car in its current form against Chris' car again (this is my only true measure). I expect/hope to take him with the mods I've done. Then I want to drive the silver car and the Loogie back to back/side by side to see just what ONLY the flywheel and header do. The silver car wasn't nearly as strong in stock form, so if it can hang with the Loog now the header/flywheel combo will prove worth while. Until tomorrow (or maybe Saturday).... :D (too bad I don't have a dyno... oh well) Dave A. daucott@aol.com 1986 MR2, silver (becoming stock again) 1986 MR2, green (CSP bound...) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 18:18:15 +1200 (NZST) To: Adrienne Mora , From: Liam Venter Subject: RE: Real engines for Lotuses (was Toyota powered Lotuses) At 10:57 AM 27/06/96 -0700, Adrienne Mora wrote: >> >> I am only 2 kW down on the CRX V-Tec (at least I was when they came out). >> Yes, aparently they do turn the wrong way. Just turn your diff upside down >> to get the crown wheel on the opposite side of the pinion! Of course, once >> you have mated a gearbox up to it, it will spend its life being driven >> backwards - will it actually work like this? > >hehehehehhehehee .. and honda's don't make rear wheel drive cars so you'll >have a hard time finding a gearbox (it dont' they mind which way they turn?) > Some of the Hyundai engines turn backwards. If they made a rear drive this could bve an option? regards Liam > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 18:18:19 +1200 (NZST) To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Thinking about a triple Rotor Lotus At 08:54 PM 26/06/96 -0500, S and K Bagdon wrote: >>>> Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a japanese >>>> client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse = 700 >>>> horse per ton). Another option perhaps? >>> >>>Ouch >> >>Good heavens (although not Toyota related) this car ought to be a real >>eyeball flattener. Tell me more, if you can... >> >>Later, >> >>Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net > >Wouldn't little things like *traction* need to be addressed here? :) > >Steve B. > >Nope why bother! think of the fun trying to control it!! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 18:18:24 +1200 (NZST) To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Disc pads for AE 86's At 02:11 PM 27/06/96 EST, bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote: >To the list, >To those that know Motor Racing in Australia Keith Selton must be the >number one man in brakes. In the last month I have convinced him to start >making AE 86 brake pads from DP-11 compound so we have some chance of stopping >our cars with standard disks and without wearing the disks out. To make these >pads he is cutting down larger ones, the cost is around $150. For those that >know this compound its not hard on the disks and certainly holds up better >than Bendix Metal King and is more consistant than Black Flash. > >In the past you had to import the stuff from the US or the UK or use Kevlar. >Give Keith a call on 03 9 578 0502. I have already seen this compound on >AE 82 and AE 92 where it is manditory on the longer tracks. >Bruce Connelly > >Another option might be carbon metallic pads from performance friction I have recently changed to these and they are very impressive. They seem to work cold as well. I don't know how they compare to DS-11's though Much better than my previsou Mintex 1144's regards Liam > >add > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 17:21:18 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Long rod theories .... Hiya all, There's been a couple of responses to my request - >Here's a stab at it: The mixture will for the most part always burn at a constant rate. As revs increase, a shorter rod allows the piston to move down before full combustion can occur. Since the squish is maintained for a longer period, the longer rod allows the extraction of more power at higher rpms, but similarily sacrifices some low end torque. Sound plausible? >Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com and; >Well yes, it sounds quite plausible. >Sort of thinking out loud, let me struggle to fill in more detail... Peak cylinder pressure happens at the instant the last bit of mixture is consumed. If the squish has not been maintained during the burn, the peak cylinder pressure would be less, because it would happen after the point of minimum volume. I can barely remember how to spell thermodynamics, but (this is a stretch) wasn't there something about the efficiency of the cycle being related to the ratio of the peak temperature to the exhaust temperature? And the peak temperature would be higher for a higher peak pressure? (Well, if I'm right so far I lucked out, big time.) >Erik Berg erik.berg@trw.com and; >Could it have something to do with the greater angle that a shorter rod has vs. the longer rod? I mean the degree of the angle formed where the rod connects to the piston when the piston has traveled half way down. It seems that the smaller angle would more efficiently utilize the energy from the fuel. >William Hall wh_hall@msn.com Yep, you're all quite correct. Free drinks all round! The two main effects are the longer squish and better rod angle to the crank. (I'm wouldn't agree with the decrease in low end torque though; with long rods, what's good at one end should be good at the other. :) And before anyone has a chance to mention it - yes, the optimum cam timing required changes with different rod lengths. Same question remains, though - Has anyone had any actual 'hands on' experience with this stuff? The B Man ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole on the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 01:57:44 -0700 (PDT) From: An-Hong Chien To: Daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: MKI Mods hey there...just wondering how much it took to change the auto to stick. what year is your car? thanks dave On Thu, 27 Jun 1996 Daucott@aol.com wrote: > Hi folks... I haven't written in a while but I've been busy, so I thought I'd > share a little of my recent findings... As many of you know I recently > switched my second MR2 from auto to 5-speed. When I did this my butt told me > this car seemed very fast! :) I straight-lined it against Chris B's '88 > (only 39K) miles and I had a bumper on him until 6000 rpm where he started > pulling away. I was totally stock except for a K&N filter and he has a TRD > header/Monza exhuast/intake box removed with K&N donut/EGR plugged. Needless > to say I was pleased, and decided to make this my race car. > > Now to the good stuff. I needed to switch all the performance parts from my > silver car to the Loog, and after the Great Header Debate I decided the last > thing I would do is switch the header. Thus far I've replaced the stock > filter with K&N, installed the HKS exhaust, installed Magnecor > wires/cap/rotor/NGK plugs, removed the airbox in favor of the Powermax setup > and pulled the EGR. I did these in that order so I could see what they do > (please note these are "butt" measurements, not terribly scientific): > > 1) K&N donut in stock airbox: Did this before I drove the car as a 5-speed... > can't really judge. > 2) HKS Exhaust: Improved midrange power, maybe a little on the top end but > not much, nice exhaust note that sounds better without the header than it did > with the header on the silver car. > 3) Magnecor/plugs/etc: Smoothed out rough idle (cap was pretty bad, plugs > were the worst I've ever seen) and improved throttle response slightly. This > may have helped what I found in step #4. > 4) Intake/EGR: Improved across the entire power band. I don't get the same > intake noise I did with the header... now it's much more linear and I don't > get the TVIS "pop" I got with the header. It's also not as loud. > > I still need to move my HKS light flywheel over to the new car, and sitting > the cars next to each other and revving them makes it clear that I want to do > this soon! The argument was made that most of the performance gains I got > when I swapped header/flywheel at the same time was due to the flywheel... > after hearing the two cars side by side I do believe this may be the case. > The Loogie seems to take forever to rev up and then slow down to idle, where > the silver car just goes up and down NOW, even with stock intake and exhaust! > Neat. Incidentally the intake/exhaust mods seem to have made the rev times > slightly better on the Loog than in stock form. > > Tomorrow I hope to run my car in its current form against Chris' car again > (this is my only true measure). I expect/hope to take him with the mods I've > done. Then I want to drive the silver car and the Loogie back to back/side > by side to see just what ONLY the flywheel and header do. The silver car > wasn't nearly as strong in stock form, so if it can hang with the Loog now > the header/flywheel combo will prove worth while. > > Until tomorrow (or maybe Saturday).... :D (too bad I don't have a > dyno... oh well) > > Dave A. > daucott@aol.com > 1986 MR2, silver (becoming stock again) > 1986 MR2, green (CSP bound...) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 07:10:49 -0400 From: "ROGERS" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: My Starlet Web Page! After several requests, here it is: Images of my 16V starlet. http://www.baseline.net/starlet Roger Smith xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 12:17:36 UT From: "William Hall" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: RE: Rod ratio theory >Is it rod length here or crankshaft diameter????? I guess I was assuming that the crankshaft stays a constant size whereas lengthening the rod would create an increasing smaller angle with the piston. But, you are correct, with my theory just decreasing the diameter of the crank would also decrease the angle without the need to lengthen the rod. William Hall wh_hall@msn.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:22:40 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Engine Woes Kevin wrote way back on the 10th about needing a new engine and how much that was going to cost. > Well, the engine in my 88 Celica has finally gone, and I'm left with a > variety of options, none of them cheap. > One of the options is, of course, to put a new engine in the car, and > here's where I'm looking for some advice from the list. It'll cost > somewhere around $3000 to replace the engine, a significant fraction > of the book value of the car. Has anyone else gone this route? In > retrospect, was it a good choice or not? The rest of the car is in > great condition, so I'd imagine it would keep going for quite > sometime. $3000? Whoa! What about a rebuilt? When you say your engine is "gone", what do you mean? Can't it be rebuilt? This isn't a time for sadness, but rather for great joy! Now you have an excuse to open that baby up and do some really nifty performance mods! Unless the block is cracked or something like that, you can have your engine rebuilt. Just to do a plain rebuild, you should figure about $400 for the kit, another $200 for machine work (max!), and figure $600 or $700 for the labor. So, for less than $1500, you can have a basically new engine. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Engine Woes Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 10:14:24 -0400 From: The Unknown User-ID (14589) >Kevin wrote way back on the 10th about needing a new engine and how much >that was going to cost. > >> Well, the engine in my 88 Celica has finally gone, and I'm left with a >> variety of options, none of them cheap. >> One of the options is, of course, to put a new engine in the car, and >> here's where I'm looking for some advice from the list. It'll cost >> somewhere around $3000 to replace the engine, a significant fraction >> of the book value of the car. Has anyone else gone this route? In >> retrospect, was it a good choice or not? The rest of the car is in >> great condition, so I'd imagine it would keep going for quite >> sometime. > >$3000? Whoa! What about a rebuilt? When you say your engine is >"gone", what do you mean? Can't it be rebuilt? This isn't a time for >sadness, but rather for great joy! Now you have an excuse to open >that baby up and do some really nifty performance mods! Unless the >block is cracked or something like that, you can have your engine >rebuilt. Just to do a plain rebuild, you should figure about $400 >for the kit, another $200 for machine work (max!), and figure $600 or >$700 for the labor. So, for less than $1500, you can have a basically >new engine. > "Gone" means knocking very badly, but not dead yet. The places I have checked around her are asking much more than your estimate to rebuilt. Basically they are saying $1500 is the minimum for _labor only_. And, they cannot say how much more it might be for parts or additional labor. I'd love to do it myself, but I live in an apartment complex, and they don't like you changing your oil on the property, so somehow I think lifting the engine and taking it apart is right out. So, I've basically given up on the car myself, but (and here's where I start my grovel) if someone else who does have the facilities to do a rebuild wanted a car to rebuild/modify/whatever, I would sell it at a very reasonable price. I'd much rather sell it to someone who will fix it up and get it going again than give it to a junkyard. The rest of the car is in good condition (for an 8 year old car) and I can get it towed up to 100 mi. from College Park MD for free. Kevin xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 19:11:12 UT From: "BRAD BEDELL" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: turbo's I have a '91 SW20 (MR2 turbo) I curently have a TD06 turbo 20G upgrade wheel. Here is my delima, I constantly have to reseal leaks at the turbo/block for oil lines and also on the return line, I also am constantly resealing my down pipe. now my question is: What if I put the CT26 back on the car w/ a T04 compressor wheel? does this upgrade really work? if anyone who can help or has done this please let me know. Thanks, Brad BradBedell@msn.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 14:21:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Seymour Butts To: Kevin Annfield Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Speedo Recalibration They do make adapter which will bolt inline with your stock speedo cable. Look in the yellow pages for a Speedometer shop, there should be one. Or else call upa couple garages, they should be able to help. Dave On Wed, 26 Jun 1996, Kevin Annfield wrote: > I have an RA28 celica, and have just put 195 60/14 tyres on it. Now when > going down the freeway my speedo says 140km/h and I know I am only going > about 115-120km/h. Is there any way of recalibrating the speedo without > changing the gear ratio in the diff. Please help me!! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 10:03:57 +1200 Subject: me/mine/mods HI there people. My name is Richard Parry, and I'm in Wellington, New Zealand. About a week ago I purchased an '86 Celica GTR 2.0, with the standard 3S-GE engine. The car's done 83,000 kilometres at time of purchase. I purchased this car because in the market here, it was the next best thing to an MR2, but no bugger had one of those for sale :) As far as I can tell, no mods have been done to this car. Initial mods I'm likely to make are a powerfilter of some sort, to improve air flow - and maybe a little later on, I'll investigate turbos and such. If anyone out there has a burning desire to contact me, you can touch base with me here: richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz. This may change any day soon, but it'll do for now :) Joyful experiences so far are taking a Nissan 200ZX off the line (90's model - it was damn close, though), and many a CRX owner has tried the test and failed. I dunno - maybe Wellington has more than its fair share of boy racers? :) Anyway, I've rambled enough - happy motoring to you! ...Richard Parry '86 Celica GTR -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:07:27 -0400 To: shafted@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies...Answers.. 1) If the fifth gear pops out, the brass syncros are going out. They can be replaced without removing the tranny. I had my fifth go out at 90,000 miles. I pulled the outside cover, reground the syncro on the shaft with a "Dremel" bit, and replaced the the syncro ring ($80). I now have 179,000 miles on that gear with no problems. 2) Don't know what other trannys will fit. Anyone??? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 11:26:21 +1100 From: Ash Saini To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods G'DAY guys, NAME: ASH SAINI LOCATION: Sydney/Australia MODEL: 1986 TOYOTA CELICA SX (GTS in the US) ENGINE: 3S-GE (I think it's the first version. It has the T-VIS system) MODS: Here goes: * Suspension: 1.5" lowered with variable rate coils, Gabriel struts, beefier sway bars. * Engine: nothing to engine itself. 3" duct to std air box with foam filter. advenced timing to 20degress(use 95octone fuel), 8.8mm plug leads with the stock Nippondenso platimum tipped plugs, connected the cold-start injector on the intake manifold to "squirt" extra fuel on full throttle activated by a micro-switch, 2.25" exhaust with one Walker muffler with stock exhaust mainfold, use Mobil One lubricants. *Body: brake cooling ducts to the front ventilated disks (on track only), use Bendix Metal King brake pads (semi-metallic compound), tinted windows. *Interior: Harness, BIG CD stereo with a 6 stacker with 400amp, 2 10" subs and 2 6*9" Sony 4ways. *Wheel/tyre: 2 sets: 1. 15"*7" ROH Reflex rims with 205/50ZR Yokohama AVS (for track) 2. 15"*6" Toyota Celica rims (1992) with 205/50V Hankook (Ventus) 505 (for street). OTHER: 5 speed manual, air-con, power sunroof, phone kit. EMAIL: ash@intercoast.com.au I think it is fantastic car, and I reap the rewards of punting it around the racetrack every 2 months. A very reliable motor vehicle. Hope I was not tooooo detailed! Thanks anyways later.... ASH xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 17:37:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: TAP Recycling (Toyota Auto Parts) To: "mr2-interest@validgh.com" , Check out Toyota Auto Parts recycling at http://www.taprecycling.com/ Phone number is 1-800-765-7100. Located near Sacramento, CA. Will ship anywhere. I spoke to Matt, they have many late model Supras, MR2s, etc. for engines, parts, etc., and the prices seem reasonable. He quoted me the following parts for a 22RTE engine: EFI computer $125, EFI harness $100, and air flow meter $75. Check this out: fuel injectors for $25 each. Seems like a good price for those who want Supra Turbo injectors in their MR2 Turbo. Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: TAP Recycling (Toyota Auto Parts) To: BZUBLIN@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Zublin, Bryan) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:37:27 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Check out Toyota Auto Parts recycling at http://www.taprecycling.com/ > Phone number is 1-800-765-7100. > Located near Sacramento, CA. Will ship anywhere. > > I spoke to Matt, they have many late model Supras, MR2s, etc. for engines, > parts, etc., and the prices seem reasonable. He quoted me the following > parts for a 22RTE engine: EFI computer $125, EFI harness $100, and air flow > meter $75. > > Check this out: fuel injectors for $25 each. Seems like a good price for > those who want Supra Turbo injectors in their MR2 Turbo. > > Bryan Zublin > bzublin@gi.com > Ahh, but they do not have Mk1 MR2 Fenders. Looks like I'll be buying these new. Thanks for helping though. :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:01:16 -0700 To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Aric Shen Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies...Answers.. Without taking it out of the car ? whoa.. I'll have to hit you up for detailed instructions when the time comes :) Was that something you "thought" up or is it actually documented ? At 08:07 PM 6/28/96 -0400, REESE001@aol.com wrote: >1) If the fifth gear pops out, the brass syncros are going out. >They can be replaced without removing the tranny. >I had my fifth go out at 90,000 miles. >I pulled the outside cover, reground the syncro on the shaft with a "Dremel" >bit, and replaced the the syncro ring ($80). >I now have 179,000 miles on that gear with no problems. > >2) Don't know what other trannys will fit. Anyone??? > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 02:31:44 -0700 From: Shung-Kung Chang To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name :Shung-Kung Chang Location :Davis, CA Model :1994 Camry V6 LE Stationwagon Engine :1MZ-FE Mods :Modified suspension, 17" rims. email :skchang@ucdavis.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 23:27:16 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Thinking about a triple Rotor Lotus >At 08:54 PM 26/06/96 -0500, S and K Bagdon wrote: >>>>> Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a japanese >>>>> client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse = 700 >>>>> horse per ton). Another option perhaps? >>>> >>>>Ouch >>> >>>Good heavens (although not Toyota related) this car ought to be a real >>>eyeball flattener. Tell me more, if you can... >>> >>>Later, >>> >>>Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net >> >>Wouldn't little things like *traction* need to be addressed here? :) >> >>Steve B. >> >>Nope why bother! think of the fun trying to control it!! > Heh-heh. "I'm the man from Goodyear, and I'm here to help you ......." ;) ;) The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 23:27:39 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: RE: Real engines for Lotuses (was Toyota powered Lotuses) >At 10:57 AM 27/06/96 -0700, Adrienne Mora wrote: > >>> >>> I am only 2 kW down on the CRX V-Tec (at least I was when they came out). >>> Yes, aparently they do turn the wrong way. Just turn your diff upside down >>> to get the crown wheel on the opposite side of the pinion! Of course, once >>> you have mated a gearbox up to it, it will spend its life being driven >>> backwards - will it actually work like this? >> >>hehehehehhehehee .. and honda's don't make rear wheel drive cars so you'll >>have a hard time finding a gearbox (it dont' they mind which way they turn?) >> >Some of the Hyundai engines turn backwards. If they made a rear drive this >could bve an option? > Who cares? :) The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 11:26:57 -0400 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 7A-FE data >Info provided to me by Mike Dowe, 7A-FE vs. 4A-FE: > >The engine was stroked by adding 15.4mm to the deck, >The crankshaft is Vanadium steel and the radius from the crank c/l to the >throw c/l is 42.75 mm vs 4AFE 38.5mm >a two layer stainless steel head gasket is used >rod hole diameters and piston pin diameters are also larger Hello, Matti Regarding the head gasket, we have not yet had to replace one at work, but a co-worker and I ordered one just to see if the cooling passages were close to a 4AG. They are quite different, and the material that the gasket is made of is in question. It appears to be copper, or copper coated. the publication number for the book that I got the information from is NCF087U Printed in Japan by TMC. The gasket had to stay in stock at the parts Dep't, so we could not spend too much time cutting it up. Thickness is ~0.5 mm xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:21:51 -0400 From: mdowe@wchat.on.ca To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies...Answers?? >1) If the fifth gear pops out, the brass syncros are going out. >They can be replaced without removing the tranny. >I had my fifth go out at 90,000 miles. >I pulled the outside cover, reground the syncro on the shaft with a "Dremel" >bit, and replaced the the syncro ring ($80). >I now have 179,000 miles on that gear with no problems. > I have some problems with your terminology. everything under the end cover of the tranny is not a synchro. I would not advocate repairing fifth gear in this manner. The root cause of the failure is too much endplay in the input shaft of the transmission. This is controlled by the bearing in the transmission case directly under fifth gear (on the input shaft). The repair manual is quite vague in respect to this, when you are checking for play in fifth gear vs the input shaft. You will note the whole input shaft moving with respect to the transmission case. This play must be minimized, it is usually between the snap ring on the bearing and the case/retainer, or in the bearing itself. If it is the bearing, replace it. If the outer race of the bearing is moving even with the retainer installed, remove the retainer, observe the location and purpose of the different grooves and it may be necessary to remove some material from the surface of the retainer which mates with the transmission case. The problem with the gearshift moving back and forth in fifth gear is as a result of this. This movement wears the dogs (or splines ) that are meshed to select a gear, causing the gear to come out when you accelerate. To repair my transmission, 8 weeks ago, I replaced both of the bearings that sit in the outer case, and modified the retainer plate to greatly reduce the endplay in the input shaft danage caused required replacing fifth gear, synchro and sleeve. due to a change in the sleeve part number the shifter fork was also req'd. I also replaced 2nd synchro. On the highway now I do not have any movement in the shifter. Mike Dowe xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:57:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: My car with new engine, Redline water wetter, etc. Hi everyone. I've had my car back for one week now and I've been driving around with a huge grin on my face. :) I'm up to 1030 miles now. I did pretty well driving gently until about 730 miles, I didn't go above 1 PSI at all, and very rarely did I even do more than budge the boost needle. However at 730 I started to push it a bit, and I got addicted... :) Since then I've been driving moderately hard, but I'm still not going above stock boost levels, and don't intend to until I reach 1500 miles (probably by the end of the weekend). As a matter of fact, it's hard to get the boost to go above 4 PSI, and so far I haven't been able to get above 5 PSI at all, though I haven't yet totally floored it (only 85-90% throttle max). I've got my EVC turned all the way off so I don't get tempted to play with it. Anyway, then, here's the current status of my car: stock block bored .040 over JE forged pistons some kind of special piston rings, I forget stress-relieved, ground, balanced, coated stock rods ARP rod bolts new stock crank 1.5mm Greddy steel head gasket ARP head bolts 3-angle valve job on head ceramic coated exhaust manifold larger ARP flywheel bolts with flywheel drilled to accept stock CT26 turbocharger modified by Turbonetics with Super-H compressor wheel and clipped exhaust wheel no cat no EGR HKS 75 mm exhaust HKS EVC III boost control Cartech/BEGI upgraded intercooler (black, anodized I guess, BTW) stock intake system removed fog light and housing for high-flow cold-air induction RedLine water wetter RedLine MTL in the manual transmission Amsoil LSD fluid in the LSD new stock clutch Precision Power 240 watt amp Boston Acoustics 4" speakers in stock locations 6" Bazooka tube factory radio/CD/cassette The car feels fairly strong, but not breathtaking at stock boost levels. The forged pistons really don't seem to have any of the piston slap or rattle that forged pistons are reputed to have. I think JE uses a special alloy that has less thermal variation. The engine does seem to sound a tad harsher and more thrashy than it did, but that may also be because it's still breaking in. I changed oil at 800 miles, I'll change again at 2000, then again at 3500. At 3500 I'll switch to synthetic oil and probably use Amsoil 2000 0W30 super-race-oil, like $7.50 a quart. :) This car _really_ needs an upgraded fuel system and fuel computer now. We'll have to see how finances look before I can do anything more. I've been popping the hood every time when I stop to let it cool faster and am amazed at how hot it gets under there. Hot enough that I'm not going to take off the stock air box and intake horn, though I think I am again going to get the K&N stock filter replacement. I've removed my foglights and the right front fog light housing, so there's a nice big opening in the front of the bumper to suck cold air into the engine. I'm not going to put any hose in to route directly from the hole into the intake system because I'm worried about sucking water, bugs, small birds (*grin*) etc. into the filter. Anyway, as I understand it, when the engine is bored .040 over that means that .040 inches of material are taken off the cylinder wall all the way around. This means that the bore diameter increases by .080. Is that correct? Or does it mean that they take off .020 inches of material, so bore diameter increases by .040? Anyway, stock engine measurements are 83.0 mm bore by 90.9 mm stroke, which computes to 2951 cc. By the first measurement, my engine gained 146 cc to 3097 cc, by the second, 73 cc to 3024 cc. I don't know which is correct Also, there has been some talk of Water Wetter recently, and that Supras seem to run at constant temperature no matter what. Despite this the Water Wetter is great because it helps prevent hot spots and promotes faster and more even cooling. Also, the 7MGTE has a water-cooled turbo and the Water Wetter probably helps cool the turbo better than standard water/anti-freeze. Anyway, Water Wetter is cheap (like $7 a bottle at Pep Boys) and should help the engine and turbo to stay cool, so I intend to use it from now on. And it does now include corrosion inhibitors. I don't plan to take the car to the local drag strip (Gainesville Raceway/Gatornationals) until I hit 3500 and put the synthetic in. At that time I expect to be generating around 330 hp at 11 psi, which I expect will put me in the 100-102 mph range in the quarter. I've had the engine built to take 20 PSI of boost, and as soon as I can afford it I'm going to do the fuel system upgrade and then see what it'll do. :) Anyway, I've got to go out and drive around some now, so I'll talk more later. :) Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 00:05:23 -0700 From: matt To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Parts for sale 1986 to 1993 turbo supra - 7MGTE 1) Toyota C-26 Turbonetics modifed turbo/ $450 2) HKS TEMS suspension controller / $150 3) GAB upper stress bar / $100 4) HKS Bouch fuel pump / $75 Call Paul at 714-521-7375 , CA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 19:36:57 +1200 Subject: Air filters Hi all; Sorry if this has been covered before, but I'm new here, and have only read about 100 messages so far :) I've got a '86 Celica GTR, with a bog-standard _very_ dirty air filter. Now, I don't think my baby is breathing quite right, and I'm sure replacing the air filter will help my horses a little. A friend of mine suggested popping in a powerfilter of some sort, and since I'm going to be replacing my air filter now anyway, I thought it not a bad idea. However, she wasn't sure if it would give any appreciable difference in power to what I've got now. Any of you guys out there with a similar car done a similar thing? If so, am I likely to get more power from my engine by putting in a high performance filter? Any comments or suggestions would be greatfully appreciated! Cheers ...Richard Parry PS: Of course, any non engine critical mods people can suggest will be taken on board willingly. I'm blowed if I know the first thing about all the mods for a Sleeka - fill me with wisdom :) -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 13:31:29 -0400 From: Trevor Boicey To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Me, Trevor Boicey from Ottawa Ontario Canada. Mine: 1992 Celica GT, 5S-FE Engine. 1983 Corolla SR5, 4-AC engine, on the way to the junker for serious body decay. Mods: Nothing yet to the Celica beyond an alarm system. The corolla has received serious body work, but mostly for preservation not modification. Seeking tips on styling and performance for the Celica. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 7:54:37 +1200 From: Richard Doig To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Celica GT4 (alltrac) questions I don't think this is the correct list for this question but I need an answer ASAP and this seems the best place. I don't know the address for the normal Toyota list sorry. I'm looking at buying a 1987 Toyota Celica GT4 (called alltrac in US?). This is the 4wd 2.0 turbo model fitted with the 3S-GTE motor. I was just wondering if there were any owners out there and what opinions they had of them. I have the choice of two locally. One's white with 80000kms but my preferred one is grey with 76000kms. The white one actually felt tighter in the gearchange and in general however (but I don't like white, too common here). I managed to make the grey one stutter a few times by changing from 3rd to 2nd at high revs and flooring it, could this be a fluttering blow-off valve, or since it was practically running on fumes could it have got an air pocket through? I couldn't get it to do it on my 2nd test drive today. Out of interest it is on the lot for NZ$13000 (US$8800), but I'd hope to get it for $11.5-$12. I am getting a pre-purchase test done so what should the compressions be on this motor? What other indications are there of engine and turbo condition? And now, something relevant to this list, what can I do to make it faster??!! With a water cooled intercooler can you uprate it? Electronic boost control? It felt like more roll resistance wouldn't go amiss either. Unfortunately we have no TRD or HK$ :) dealers here in New Zealand so what performance upgrades do they offer for this model? With the 4wd to aid traction a few hundred horses would really make the car perform! Can you please e-mail me direct as I am not a member of the list yet. Incidentally, is it available in digest form? Thanks for your help and sorry for the off-topic post. ___________________________________________________ Richard Doig doigr@fphcare.mhs.compuserve.com 1983 Toyota Celica XX 2000GT Twin Cam 24 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 17:20:55 -0500 To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2 MkI 5 speed trannies...Answers.. >1) If the fifth gear pops out, the brass syncros are going out. >They can be replaced without removing the tranny. >I had my fifth go out at 90,000 miles. >I pulled the outside cover, reground the syncro on the shaft with a "Dremel" >bit, and replaced the the syncro ring ($80). >I now have 179,000 miles on that gear with no problems. > >2) Don't know what other trannys will fit. Anyone??? Anyone have a cross reference for what works, with and without modifications? I figure the 4A-GE and 4A-GEZ trannys will cross-fit, but didn't someone way the 4A-GEZ and 3S-GTE trannys are the same? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:14:51 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: ignitor's going bad Hello List, Anyone ever had a ignitor go bad on them? Replaced one? How much was it and how did you determine thats what it was? A reputable wrench told me it was a fairly common thing to happen. Anyway mine is delivering interuppted spark to the plugs. Just fired up the 20R Sunchaser after 6 months downtime. It sure is nice to hear it run again! I'll make a full post later. Chris W Morgan 1979 Celica Sunchaser 1982 Celica GT Coupe 1984 Celica GT Hatchback 1985 Celica GTS Convertable 1995 Suzuki GSXR 750 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:38:57 -0600 From: Rick Martinez Subject: me/mine/mods To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Name : Rick Martinez Location : Denver, CO Model : 1987 Corolla GT-S Engine : 4-AGE Mods : Dunlop Tires, that's about it. I just bought it and i've been taking care of the regular maintenance stuff first. email : rickm@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu Hi, My name is Rick Martinez and I am in Denver this summer, but I really live in Austin, TX for most of the year. In May, I bought my 1987 Corolla GT-S for $2800 and it was the best decision I have ever made. I have previously owned (in order): 1980 Celica, 1970 VW Bus, 1985 Camry, 1971 VW Squareback, and now my Corolla GT-S. I like the Corolla the best by far. There is nothing, I mean nothing, like it as far as performance is concerned for that amount of money. As far as modifications, I haven't had the cash to do much yet, but I plan on having this car for a while and it performs fairly well stock. That's about it. Later Rick Martinez rickm@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~rmartine/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx