Toyota-Mods Postings July 1996

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Jul 1996 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 16:44:01 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Elan Powerplant Selection Hiya All, >But let's steer ourselves gently back to the engineering agenda at hand; BHP/$. Getting 200 hp out of a twink is NOT a trivial matter, even using the 2.0 litre aluminum BDP block. > Err, actually it is .... my 4AGE has only minor mods and is 100hp/litre. With the mods I'm going to do to my new 4AGE, I'm expecting up around 115hp/litre AND 40 mpg. And there's also the 20valve 4AGE which has 160hp odd standard! Another example is the 2 Litre Touring cars in England and Aus that put out nearly 300hp from 2 litres - 150hp/litre! >Don't get me wrong... such engines certainly exist. But they are serious race engines, with maybe 20 hour rebuild intervals. > With a 100hp/litre road going engine, I'd expect at least 100,000km with total reliablity. (Of course that's normal driving with the occasional blast to 8000 rpm) >The reason that I eventually backed away from this plan was, once again, BHP/$. All the parts are readily available, but once you add up the cost of everything that would be required you are talking about a high dollar engine. Well over $10K (US) including the fuel injection. > Yeah, the Cossies are damn good engines, but _damn_ they are expensive! The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 18:35:26 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Oil filters. Hiya All, Got some mail today, and I thought it might interest some of you. > Well, up to now I've only used the normal Ryco filters. Last time > I changed the oil I put in a Ryco "Premium", supposedly with > anti-drainback valve. I haven't tried Genuine Toyota filters -- > are these any better? Bet they cost a heap more ..... > > What other brands are out there? I've only ever seen Ryco brand > (& Autobarn's in-house filters, which I haven't tried as yet -- doubt > they're any better than Ryco). > > Are you saying it's common for the anti-drainback valves to be > faulty? Doesn't say much for quality control. > I haven't had too much trouble with oil filters, but I do know there are differences with every type. For example, I used to use a Z-9 in the racing car, but now I use a Z-114. (I think - I'd have to check) The Z-9, a very common Ford/Holden filter has an oil pressure relief valve in the base, so if the filter gets too blocked up then it will open up and bypass the filter paper. Not too much of a bother in road cars, but in a racing car which has a tremendous oil flow relative to a road engine it might be possible to open the valve due to the increased backpressure. The Z-114 is physically exactly the same filter, but has no bypass valve. As for the anti-drainback valve being faulty, I'd say that a good, tight oil pump would be a btter option. Gadgets like that aren't subject to any quality assurance laws - another example being tachometers. Almost invariably they overread! They don't have to follow any laws regarding accuracy, so they don't. Take for example the ubiquitous VDO. I have a 10,000rpm VDO electic tacho on my racing car. I had it on the dyno the other day, and when the car's tacho was showing 8,000rpm the calibrated test tacho was reading only 7,700rpm. But back to oil filters - In my 4AGE, I only use the genuine factory oil filter. It seems to have the least restriction and the best filtering. Wether all the Toyota filters are the same I couldn't say. As for other filters, it's just a matter of try and see. Unfortunately, it seems to be a case of $$$=quality. The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 07:11:45 -0500 To: celicag@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris W. Morgan), From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: ignitor's going bad > Hello List, > Anyone ever had a ignitor go bad on them? Replaced one? How much was it >and how did you determine thats what it was? A reputable wrench told me it >was a fairly common thing to happen. Anyway mine is delivering interuppted >spark to the plugs. > Just fired up the 20R Sunchaser after 6 months downtime. It sure is nice >to hear it run again! I'll make a full post later. I had one go bad, as well as the coil (I'll find out in a few days, when I can A/B test it). On the Mk II MR2, it appears that the coil/igniter can get spray from the left/rear tire - it has a plastic gaurd on the top (dripping?), but nothing on the bottom (spray). On the Mk I, it was high on the right side, under the right engine 'trim cover' (that small piece that bolts/screws to the body, to each side of the engine cover/lid). On the Mk II, its low on the left (below one of the fuse boxes), and offset towards the middle. Another thing is that the coil is flat, and not round. The Mk I was the standard round 'tube' coil, but the Mk II uses a flat coil, with metal plates on the bottom. The Mk II coil has what looks like metal plate 'wafers', and mine have rusted to the point that they are separating from the coil. I suspect the coil is causing my intermittant hesitation, and will know for sure when the new coil comes in from Lou Fusz. I think that moisture is getting into the coil, and doesn't go away until the water 'boils' off from engine heat. Also, the coil has rusted it's way to the bracket, and I'm just replacing both($12/bracket, $50/coil). I also am replacing the ignitor, that would be $100/salvage, or $280/new. I'll definitely be going salvage! But yes, they can go bad. There are instructions in the Toyota manual on testing resistance, continuity and ohms at certain leads to find out if it's bad. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 10:05:16 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter) Subject: Re: ignitor's going bad >> Hello List, >> Anyone ever had a ignitor go bad on them? Replaced one? How much was it >>and how did you determine thats what it was? A reputable wrench told me it >>was a fairly common thing to happen. Anyway mine is delivering interuppted >>spark to the plugs. >> Just fired up the 20R Sunchaser after 6 months downtime. It sure is nice >>to hear it run again! I'll make a full post later. I,too had an igniter go bad on my '89. (~$300) In addition it somehow fried the distributor. ($600) This is what my dealer said anyway. These problems caused the car to die at random. I put a plastic shield around the entire coil/igniter. It is protected from drips and splash. Eventually it wouldn't start at all. No problems since replacement 20,000 mi ago. My 2% Kelly Carter _______________ A/V Technician______________ College of Architecture_____ Media Center________________ Texas A&M University________ College Station, TX_________ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: reyb Cc: toyota mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 1 Jul 96 15:34:47 Subject: power steering hose Don't use regular hose clamps! I used cheap A/C hoses clamped with screw-down hose clamps and they failed. The hose slipped out of the fittings and sprayed P/S fluid all over the engine compartment... (very ugly). It was scary too! Some of the fluid ended landing on the exhaust manifold... and very thick smoke started billowing for the engine compartment..... (I swear, I heard people yelling "Fire!") Your best bet is to take the old hose with the fittings and take them to a hydraulic shop. I'm sure they can fabricate a new one. That's what I did... so far, so good. Check-out hydraulic shops that fabricate hoses for "low-rider" cars. Good Luck John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com (toyota mods) @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: reyb @ wildcat.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM @ internet Date: 06/27/96 03:28 PM Subject: power steering hose ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Anybody ever make their own? The reason that I ask is that my parent's '90 V6 Camry recently blew the high pressure hose coming off of the power steering pump and the puppy costs $170. So, with that cost in mind I've been thinking of alternatives such as: o Remove/cut the metal sleeve that is crimping the hose onto the fittings and hopefully be able to buy some cheap power steering hose and use standard hose clamps to hold them on. Think those standard hose clamps can handle mega psi's? o Bring the broken hose to a heavy equipment/hydraulic repair shop and see if they can replace the hose. o Bite the bullet. :( Thanks, -Rey- ======================================================== Rey Berin Phone: (619) 485-3285 NCR Corporation Fax: (619) 485-3010 17095 Via Del Campo San Diego, CA 92127 Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM ======================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: MarkIV brakes, pads, rotors, etc. Date: Mon, 1 Jul 96 13:47:23 -0700 From: "John F. Page" To: Well, I trashed my brakes this weekend on the race track. By the end of the second day there was a hell of a shudder when I braked. Although I haven't taken it in to the shop yet, I am almost sure that I have a warped front rotor or two. I didn't see any cracks when I changed the wheeels back to street tires. The ambient temperature on the track was 110 degrees in the shade! Sound like I may have overcooked things a bit? Well, this brings up a couple of things. One is pads, two is rotors. First pads. I'm convinced that I finally need to upgrade my pads. I'm on my third set. First set lasted 28K, second lasted 10K. My current set has only been on for 1K and are still in fine shape. For any application except fierce and repeated race braking, the stock pads are fine. But I now need more meat for track conditions. Has anyone put on any aftermaket racing pads for track use on their TT? I use my car mostly for the street so I don't want an all out racing pad -- I need a compromise (don't you hate that word -- but when your car is used for both street and track you better get used to it!) I called a couple of place about pads and I found two places that have them. Porterfield makes them (although I've heard a lot of negative stuff about Porterfields in general -- tearing up rotors, poor quality control, etc.). Race Central said that they stock Hawks -- black compound (400-1100 degrees) -- about $120 per axle. Performance Friction has a part number for them, but has yet to actually manufacture them! So, who has some info??? Now to move on the rotors. Anyone using any aftermarket rotors except Ara? He's using a set of cross drilled factory rotors that he got from Stillen for $800. If I'm not mistaken, Ernesto Sgroi said that he can get the same ones for about $600. But, the thing is I keep hearing bad things about cross drilled rotors - that they crack from the holes when they get stressed sufficiently. What about it gang? I'm going to have my brakes in pieces in a day or two and I'm looking for help from you all! BTW, yes, I am using high temp brake fluid and I have stainless steel braided brake lines. John Page - 94 TT Information provided is given free of charge in good faith without prejudice. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 16:40:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: mazda powered loti To: Toyota Mods > >>> Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a japanese > >>> client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse = 700 > >>> horse per ton). Another option perhaps? > >> > >>Ouch > > > >Good heavens (although not Toyota related) this car ought to be a real > >eyeball flattener. Tell me more, if you can... > > > >Later, > > > >Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net > > Wouldn't little things like *traction* need to be addressed here? :) Parachutes may be another good idea! : ) Ade xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 20:02:41 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Distributor Woes Hi folks, I have slight dilemma maybe you can help me solve: My MK1 had an oil leak at the distributor, so I pulled the distributor out to find a completely dried out o-ring seal between the head and the distributor... GREAT! I replaced the seal with a shiny new one and slapped it all back together. I replaced the cap and rotor at the same time, and figured the problem was solved. NOPE! The next day I got some more of the raw oil burn-off (from dripping on the exhaust manifold -- really stinks) and I thought it might be residual from the prior probem, but it persisted so I got another o-ring just to be safe and pulled it again tonight. This time (and last time too, but it didn't register) I found oil INSIDE the distributor! Now, call me crazy, but I don't think that should be there, and oil doesn't flow uphill through the vents, so oil appears to be going through the seal that houses the rotor shaft into the distributor and out the lower air vents, onto the heat shield then onto the manifold... :( Has anyone else had this problem? Am I incorrect in my assumptions? I intend to check my factory manual for details but I just had to ask you guys for confirmation of my theories. Any help is appreciated! PS: Anyone have a good MK1 distributor for sale? :) :( Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:21:00 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Distributor Woes......MK1 oil filter...move it? good show, Bruce. Luckily, I haven't had any of the oil probs you described, but I'm sure my day is coming. *****SEGWAY*****......... Does anyone know of a oil filter extender/relocator for the MK1's??? I'm tired of burning my arm on the manifold every 3,000 miles trying to reach that *&^$%$# thing. Tanx. Until Next..........................Robert '85 MK1 179,500.......... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:21:03 -0400 To: AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: mazda powered loti ...Gonna need more than airbags..... Robert. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: REESE001@aol.com Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:21:55 -0400 To: shafted@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: 5th and gone........ Shafted, I lost a bolt out of the tranny and it slowly lost oil. The fifth gear is "external" so it gets the least lube in such a situation. The "diamond" cut on the gear had sheared off on one side (while I was driving X-country), so the sleave would no longer lock in place. On deceleration, it would stay fine. But, as soon as I touched the gas **pop**.......out it came. (And I had to drive a long way in 4th) :( By 're-notching' the gear, it allowed the sleave something to grab onto to hold it into gear. Works fine. 90,000 miles proven. (Keep in mind, this is my daily driver. I do not race or drag my baby.) This whole project was a crap-shoot. I really had know idea it would work, but I had nothing to lose. If it didn't work, I would have had to replace the gear anyway. Who knew? I used a LOT of carb cleaner as I went along to keep the grindings out of the rest of the tranny. I filled it with t-fluid, drove to work and back and then changed it again to be sure. (20,000 miles back I dropped an oil additive in it ---like "DuraLube"--- just to maybe buy myself some more miles before I have to do a total rebuild. Any questions? Until Next.........................Robert '85 MK1 179,500......... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:17:21 +1200 From: Richard Doig To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: More Celica GT4 questions. Thanks for all your answers about my Celica GT4 All-trac purchase. I had the car tested today and it seemed pretty good. The main problem is play in the turbo bearings, in turn allowing oil to leak into the compressor inlet through the seals. What does this indicate about the engines condition (75000kms) and how serious is this? Compressions were 175,180,182 and 185psi. Are these okay? The dealer wants to fix it themselves but I'm trying to negotiate a discount so I can have it done myself. If I was having it rebuilt what else could be done for performance? The exhaust is still standard but after new tyres that would be the first part to fall off (along with the cat:-). The turbo is a Totota CT26 so what changes could be made and to what cost? If I'm going to up the boost I may as well takes advantage of compressor mods as well. I gave them an offer for cash without the turbo being repaired 18% under the sticker price which they turned down. Worth a try! Please reply direct again thanks as I don't read the list (too many messages at work!). Richard doigr@fphcare.mhs.compuserve.com ___________________________________________________ Richard Doig doigr@fphcare.mhs.compuserve.com Toyota Celica XX 2000GT Twin Cam 24 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 00:20:29 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Distributor Woes Bruce writes: << and all mine ended up with some small amounts of oil in the dissy, isnt this normal? I don't know, that's why I asked... >> The 10.3:1 engines I have seen dont leak. If thats all the problems you have with oil your doing well. How about the leaks you will get in the cam wheel seals, and the hardening of the cam cover seals. On some 4AG's the CAM covers were so tight I had to use a chisel to remove them and put new ones in to stop the leaks. Cam cover gaskets were replaced at the rebuild and are good, and I replaced a dried out leaky oil filter housing o-ring already, so I know they will leak... they are also fixable. >> For the dissy I have solved the problem, I built headers that dont go near the dissy so the oil falls on the floor, its such a small leak I dont worry about it.(Yes now I have found a real use for my headers) I don't know about you, but I don't like a puddle of oil under my car every time I stop, and in addition the stench that stuff makes as it burns off the exhaust manifold is quite nausiating. This is not a "drop a day" but more like a drop a minute problem. When I stop and park I get billowing smoke from the oil burn off AND a 50mm circle of oil on the driveway. I do not think this is normal. >>Have you checked the PCV system yet? Have you put a synth oil in the car and had it disappear but a mineral based one doesnt? Have you seen the oil surge problems in the RWD versions coming out of hard corners that the FWD versions dont do? We could start a whole new X file on early 4AG oil leaks, thank heavens none of them really matter just fill it up every month. Ummm... right. I wonder what Toyota's warranty is on the 4AGE if this is "normal." Interesting that my other car with 109K miles on an original motor exhibits none of these problems. I attribute it to the leaker being in Florida sun for most of its life. Now, if anyone knows of a way to fix this, please let me know. Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Notchy at startup. To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:17:37 -0400 (EDT) Guys and Gals, I've noticed lately that everytime I start up Mister 2, the first shift into any gear is notchy with very noticeable resistance. After that first shift, it shifts fine. Should I be concerned about this? What's really happening here, and what can I do about it? Thanks :) Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Prep for back on the road. To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:29:13 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Hi all, I'll be putting my car back on the road soon and I wanted to know what should be done maintenance-wise to make sure the car runs properly after being off the road for a year. The car has been started at least once a week for the past year, so it's not a complete restarting. The engine is running very well. Here's what I've done so far in prep: Changed oil Changed Manual transmission fluid Changed drivebelt and a/c belt Here's what I plan to do soon: Resurface brake rotors and put on new pads Bleed brake system Change spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. Cooling system flush and refill. If anyone can think of anything else I should do to make sure the car runs properly after being off the road for a year, please do tell. I can really use some advice. After spending so much of my own time and money fixing the front end bodywork, I want to make sure I get the whole car running great. Thanks guys, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Brake Rotors,How not to glaze. To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:43:32 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu One more Guys and Gals, I usually baby my brakes, but recently I decided to use them more powerfully, i.e., stopping more powerfully, and suddenly my front rotors have glazed up (I can see myself in them), necessitating a resurfacing of the rotors and a new set of pads. How can I prevent this from happening again after the brake job? Can I stop powerfully like that without this happening again? Or will it just happen again with the stock rotors? Thanks :) Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: TAP Recycling, Fenders '85 MR2 To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:53:01 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Aly, > Where are you and where have you looked for those fenders. > Did you try "Foster Auto" in Portland, OR? > > Until Next...............................Robert > '85 MK1 180,000....... > Robert, I'm in lower NY, about an hour north of the city. I've called about every junkyard in the tri-state area I could find. I've called TAP. Nobody seems to have a decent set of fenders (no rust or dents) for an '85 MR2. Do you have the number for Foster Auto? I'd really appreciate any help. Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: Air filters To: richard@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:55:13 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I would definitely get an air-filter for the car. When I had mine put on at first, I didn't really think much of the improvement. Then I switched back to the original air-box and noticed a huge decrease in the throttle response. My point being, you will notice an improvement at higher revs, about 4000rpms or greater. I also happen to own the same car as yours, mines an '86 Celica GTS. Anyways, if you do get one, you will have to get a universal fit filter as nobody makes an air-filter for this car specifically. I just got a mini-sized POwerFlow filter in my car, but it does the job. The only thing I could find performance wise for this car is just the air-filter and a muffler. Nobody seems to make anything for this car specifically. And both my air-filter and muffler are customized too. However, I've modified the suspension to some degree. I guess what this car may lack in performance it sure makes it up in handling! Richard '86 Celica GTS > A friend of mine suggested popping in a powerfilter of some sort, and > since I'm going to be replacing my air filter now anyway, I thought > it not a bad idea. However, she wasn't sure if it would give any > appreciable difference in power to what I've got now. > > Any of you guys out there with a similar car done a similar thing? > If so, am I likely to get more power from my engine by putting in a > high performance filter? Any comments or suggestions would be > greatfully appreciated! > > Cheers > > ...Richard Parry > > PS: Of course, any non engine critical mods people can suggest will > be taken on board willingly. I'm blowed if I know the first thing > about all the mods for a Sleeka - fill me with wisdom :) > > -- > Richard Parry. > Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Re: me/mine/mods To: Ash@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Ash Saini) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:08:47 -0700 (PDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com What kind of springs are these anyways? Were they custom made? I've been searching everywhere for springs that would lower this car more than 1 inch. I was told H&R had springs that lowered 1.25inches but they no longer make them. I finally gave up and got Eibach's. They don't slam the car to the ground, but I'm not totally disatisfied either. They do handle very well. I didn't know Gabriel made struts for this car either. ANyways, I got Koni's with the springs. They're not bad. > > * Suspension: 1.5" lowered with variable rate coils, Gabriel struts, beefier sway bars. > I was thinking of replacing the stock intact duct to a larger diameter size. Just curious, where did you feed the duct from? I was thinking of removing one of the lights below the retracting ones to feed an intake duct to the air-filter. > * Engine: nothing to engine itself. 3" duct to std air box with foam filter. advenced > timing to 20degress(use 95octone fuel), 8.8mm plug leads with the stock Nippondenso > platimum tipped plugs, connected the cold-start injector on the intake manifold to > "squirt" extra fuel on full throttle activated by a micro-switch, 2.25" exhaust with one > Walker muffler with stock exhaust mainfold, use Mobil One lubricants. > This is a new one on me. Where did you feed the brake ducts from? > *Body: brake cooling ducts to the front ventilated disks (on track only), use Bendix > Metal King brake pads (semi-metallic compound), tinted windows. If you have any other mods, or know of any interesting ideas, I would love to hear them. Richard '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Leong Subject: Warped brakes To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:18:41 -0700 (PDT) Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are warped. I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder as I go faster. I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. How it happened is still a puzzle to me. It seemed to happened right after I had the springs and shocks installed by someone. I'm not sure if this is just by coincidence. I'm pretty sure they come from the front brakes. My question is, how bad does this do to the car. I could care less about the rotors, I'm thinking of replacing or resurfacing them anyways. What about the engine? Does this warping give unnecessary strain to the engine? I knew the brakes were warped before. Every time I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan from the wheels like the rotors were warped. I just don't know why the sound comes up when I drive normally. Not to mention the noise is quite annoying. Any help is appreciated. Richard '86 Celica GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 2 Jul 1996 00:19:56 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Twinks, Cossies, and 4AGs To: "Bill Sherwood" , Reply to: Twinks, Cossies, and 4AGs Good people of Toyota Mods, I don't want to wear out my welcome. If you're getting tired of our Lotus related posts, let me know... or if you find them interesting let me know too. By the way, there IS some Toyota content in this message... >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Bill, for the benefit of the folks on Toyota Mods, maybe we should explain some terminology: > Getting 200 hp out of a twink is NOT a trivial matter "Twink" is the Lotus twin cam. Used in Elans, Lotus Cortinas, early Escort rally cars, late Europas, and assorted 30 year old formula 2 and formula B cars. >>Yeah, the Cossies are damn good engines, but _damn_ they are expensive! The particular Cosworth engine we are talking about is the BD (belt drive) family. The BDD is the old (pre-4AG) formula Atlantic engine. The BD is an oversquare 16-valve engine with a narrow included valve angle, based on the "Kent" family block, as is the twink. The chamber design is somewhat similar to the early DFV. > even using the 2.0 litre aluminum BDP block. The BDP block is the biggest displacement "Kent" family block. It was designed by Cosworth for midget racing and other applications. Though intended to live under the BD head, it can be adapted to a Lotus twin cam head. With the proper crank, you can stretch it to about 2.1 litres. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Getting 200 hp out of a twink is NOT a trivial matter, even using > the 2.0 litre aluminum BDP block. >>Err, actually it is .... my 4AGE has only minor mods and is 100hp/litre. >>And there's also the 20valve 4AGE which has 160hp odd standard! >>Another example is the 2 Litre Touring cars in England and Aus that put out >>nearly 300hp from 2 litres - 150hp/litre! Yeah, aren't the modern multivalve heads bichin!! Production 4 and 5 valve engines are now developing specific output that was in the exclusive territory of race engines 30 years ago. But the Lotus twin cam is, after all, a two valve engine... and despite its reputation for breathing, (a reputation earned a long, long time ago!) the twink head has nowhere near the ultimate CFM capability of a 4AG head. 100hp/litre is no problem for a 1300 or 1600 twink. But 100hp/litre is a bit of a challenge for 2 litre twink, because even using the largest valves that can fit in the chamber, it will be getting short of breath. Also building a 2 litre twink is expensive. A friend of mine did it recently. He ended up using Co$worth parts in the bottom end, although other configurations are possible. And the block itself is a high dollar item. >>With the mods I'm going to do to my new 4AGE, I'm expecting up around >>115hp/litre AND 40 mpg. I doubt you're just saying that as an offhanded comment! I would really like to hear more about the mods you are planning, and I bet Toyota Mods would too. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 2 Jul 1996 00:59:42 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: Prep for back on the roa To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" , Reply to: RE>Prep for back on the road. If you're going to go to the bother of turning the brake rotors, you might want to have a look at the piston seals in the calipers, while the calipers are loose and easy to inspect. Ocasionally the pistons will get corroded and can cause the brakes to stick on, if the seals are dead. Usually this would only happen if a car has been sitting out in a wet climate for a long time. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 18:41:42 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: K series oil pumps. Hiya all, Some more guff on Corolla 'K' engine oil pumps, for what it's worth. It's a response to some questions asked by a local who has a 5K that's seen better days. >How hard is it to reco an oil pump? > The hardest part is getting it out of the engine! Err, that's assuming that you leave the engine in the car. I suppose you could leave everything all connected up except the engine mounts and just lift the engine up enough to remove the sump. Maybe? Once you have the pump out, it's not too bad. If you have a copy of the specifications the the pump has to meet, then you can check the clearances to see where you stand. If there's too much lateral clearance then there's not much you can do other than get another pump, but if there's excess clearance between the rotors & the cover plate then you can VERY carefully oilstone down the pump body to close up the gap. That's about all you do with that side of things, but you can also help the oilflow a lot by 'smoothing' the oil passages of the pump - they're pretty rough on a K pump, so out with the grinder and give them a nice rounded set of corners. The other thing I used to do to the K pumps was put a 1/16" washer under the pressure relief spring to up the pressure for racing. Not really needed for road use, but it doesn't hurt at all. Another thing we used to do to help the gears on the cam drive last longer was to drill out the hole in the neck of the oil pump that squirted oil onto the gear on the cam that drives the distributor and oil pump. We made the hole 1/16". The last thing was to machine three grooves on the neck of the pump to make it so we could fit three 'O' rings to help seal the oil pressure into the pump and not let it flow out around the neck. This one's a little tricky without a lathe and the O-rings need changing every time the pump comes out, so it's probably a bit of an overkill for road use. It worked quite well though - I always had great oil pressure at all revs with all the mods done to the oil system. There's two holes in the neck - one for the oil flow out to the filter and one back from the filter. Both have 60+ psi oil, so if the fit between the neck and the block is a bit sloppy, then you'll be losing oil pressure out the top of the pump where it fits into the bottom of the distributor. The O-rings stop that by blocking off the top & bottom of the neck, and the middle O-ring in between the two oil holes stops any bypass of oil due to filter pressure differential. Some of these things can be used in other oil pumps, eg, almost every oil pump I've seen has rough edges on the inlet & outlet of the pump body, so you can help things a bit by cleaning them up as described. Em tassal, Wantok. Bill S. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "One day lad, all this will be yours" "Wot, the curtains?" ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: NLing@aol.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 06:10:02 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2 1992 - 1995 I would like to know about MR2,s. Please send me any information about MR2,s. Thanks. Ling. N.Ling 4614 S.E Long St, Portland OR.97207 USA xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:11:42 -0400 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Distributor Woes How many miles are on this engine? Sometimes blow-by will start coming out weird places like the distributor if the PCV is clogged or overwhelmed. Jon Hacker 90 Supra turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:44:06 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter) Subject: Re: ignitor's going bad >>I,too had an igniter go bad on my '89. (~$300) In addition it somehow >>fried the distributor. ($600) This is what my dealer said anyway. These >>problems caused the car to die at random. I put a plastic shield around the >>entire coil/igniter. It is protected from drips and splash. Eventually it >>wouldn't start at all. No problems since replacement 20,000 mi ago. > >That distributor cost seems way high. The last time I replaced my >'distributor body' (the part that the distributor cap screws into), it was >only abou;$130 +/-. > >Steve B. > Clarification: That price included labor. I had no place to work on the car at the time. The actual dealer price was around $175-200. Still high compared to dealer's in other cities. The dealer is no longer in business, he's now in court. Charges include price fixing, fraud, tampering with odometers, etc. I got ripped a little, but live and learn. Kelly Carter '89 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 11:17:02 -0500 From: Philip Cutajar To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Phil Cutajar Location : Madison, NJ (temporary) Model : 1993 MR2 Turbo, T-Top, ABS, AC Engine : ? I don't know yet. Mods : Stock (I think) email : cutajarp@ix.netcom.com I don't own a Toyota as yet, but I have subscribed because I am seriously searching for a 1993 MR2 Turbo to buy. I think I have found one through the MR2 classifieds and I am planning on making an offer soon. Unfortunately, the car is 1,200 miles away in Dallas. If anyone can offer any helpful advice on what to watch out for on these cars I would be appreciative. I am fanatical about them already, if though I don't yet own one. The concept of mid-engine, RWD, in a tidy and sleek package like the MR2 is irresitable. Regards, Phil (hopeful future MR2 owner). xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 11:23:23 -0500 From: Philip Cutajar To: toyota-mods Subject: What should I know about '93 MR2 Turbo Greetings, I'm looking to buy a 1993 MR2 turbo, around 25K miles, T-Top. I would appreciate any feedback on what to watch out for on these cars. Thanks in advance. Regards, Phil. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 10:00:00 PDT From: ErickX Wipprecht To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: Erick Wipprecht Location: Phoenix, Arizona Model: 1988 MR2 Engine: 4A-GZE Mods: None (as yet) email: erickx_wipprecht@ccm.ch.intel.com After many years of lusting after them, I finally went down and picked up a firstgen MR2 two weeks ago. 36 hours after I picked it up, Mister 2 decided that fifth and reverse aren't neccessary after all. In any case, I'll have it back by tomorrow and that's when the fun will start. My good friend and self-proclaimed MR2 guru Ted and I plan to give the car even more attitude than it already has. First to go is going to be the exhaust. After that, who knows. BTW, glad to be here! Erick xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 12:01:05 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Distributor Woes To the list, I have owned three 4AG's, in a MK1 MR2, AE 86 and AE 82 and worked on many times that number for friends. The ALL leaked at the dissy onto the heat shield at some point in their lives the MR2 did it form 10,000Kms, the AE 86 fron 25,000KMs and the AE82 from NEW! All the 9.4:1 motors did it and all mine ended up with some small amounts of oil in the dissy, isnt this normal? The 10.3:1 engines I have seen dont leak. If thats all the problems you have with oil your doing well. How about the leaks you will get in the cam wheel seals, and the hardening of the cam cover seals. On some 4AG's the CAM covers were so tight I had to use a chisel to remove them and put new ones in to stop the leaks. For the dissy I have solved the problem, I built headers that dont go near the dissy so the oil falls on the floor, its such a small leak I dont worry about it.(Yes now I have found a real use for my headers) Have you checked the PCV system yet? Have you put a synth oil in the car and had it disappear but a mineral based one doesnt? Have you seen the oil surge problems in the RWD versions coming out of hard corners that the FWD versions dont do? We could start a whole new X file on early 4AG oil leaks, thank heavens none of them really matter just fill it up every month. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ml36@cornell.edu Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 14:04:31 -0400 (EDT) To: Richard Leong Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Warped brakes On Mon, 1 Jul 1996, Richard Leong wrote: > Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are > warped. I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder > as I go faster. I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. My experience with warped brake rotors are that they don't show any indication of being a problem when you're just driving without braking. The pads get pushed back so they just brush against the highest point of the rotor surface and doesn't really make a noise you can hear. Sometimes you can hear it at very low speeds when wind and tire noise are minimal. When you press the brakes with light to moderate pressure, warped rotors will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal and, if the warping is bad, a shimmy in the steering wheel. Very hard brake pressure usually doesn't result in pedal pulsations. > I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan > from the wheels like the rotors were warped. I just don't know why the > sound comes up when I drive normally. Not to mention the noise is quite Again, not behavior I'd expect from warped rotors. My opinion is that you're problem is something else. Now maybe the wisdom on this list can help you pinpoint it. :) -Mike Leary 87 Corolla GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 11:12:53 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: skchang@ucdavis.edu (Shung-Kung Chang) Subject: Muffler Hi: Have you tried any Remus muffler? Is it good? I'm thinking to replace my stock muffler with Remus but I would like to have some inputs before I spend $400 for a muffler on 1MZ-FE engine. Sincerely Shung-Kung Chang xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:36:53 +1200 (NZST) To: Daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Distributor Woes At 12:20 AM 2/07/96 -0400, Daucott@aol.com wrote: >Bruce writes: > ><< and all mine ended up with some small amounts of oil in the dissy, isnt >this > normal? > > >Ummm... right. I wonder what Toyota's warranty is on the 4AGE if this is >"normal." Interesting that my other car >with 109K miles on an original motor exhibits none of these problems. I >attribute it to the leaker being in Florida sun for most of its life. Now, >if anyone knows of a way to fix this, please let me know. > >Dave A. >daucott@aol.com > I have a 1983 4age that doesn't leak anywhere (not a drop). I repleaced the dizzy "o" ring with a Toyota replacement and resealed the sump when I firsts bought it. Toyotas gasket goo for the sump costs over NZ$60.00! I just used a hi-temp silicon sealent from the local speed shop cost abvout $5.00 Yes the cam seals have hardened up but don't leak yet and I still have the original cam cover seals. I do have a leak form the rear of the gearbox drive shaft seal but will replace the seal next time I have the drive shaft out. I use Mobile 1 synthetic oil and very rarely top up the oil. This engine is in a much abused race car. regards Liam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:36:57 +1200 (NZST) To: aly abulkheir , From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Brake Rotors,How not to glaze. Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu At 01:43 AM 2/07/96 -0400, aly abulkheir wrote: >One more Guys and Gals, > I usually baby my brakes, but recently I decided to use them more >powerfully, i.e., stopping more powerfully, and suddenly my front rotors >have glazed up (I can see myself in them), necessitating a resurfacing of >the rotors and a new set of pads. > How can I prevent this from happening again after the brake job? >Can I stop powerfully like that without this happening again? Or will it >just happen again with the stock rotors? > > Thanks :) > > Aly > '85 MR2 > abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu I you are using your brakes hard you may need to upgrade your pads. Some suggestions. I have done a lot of experimenting on brakes trying to get road systems to work well on the track. Mintex 1144 moderately heavy street use. Work well at low temperatures Mintex 1155 very heavy street use. Work welll at moderately hifgh temp Mintex 1166 for weekend racing. Worek well at high temperature but not good when cold. DS-11 Work well at high temp but not low Performance Friction, Carbon metallics. Work well very very hot, moderate and cold temperatures. Very high coeffiecint of friction. and very good feel. Most casual users will not notice the difference between cold and hot stopping power of race pads on the street. The difference is night and day on the race track but not very noticeable on the road. Cold air ducting usining aluminium tubing etc, can make a sensational difference to braking. However the last time I used tried this I did it with some cast iron production car discs that I had cross drilled. The discs got fine cracks all around the holes. I think this was due to thermal stress. I would have been best not to have drilled these. Race pads may tend to be harder on the wear of the discs. However as they dissipate heat better they stop discs warping under extreme conditions. I have always used a higher grade of pad than standard on my road cars and have yet to wear out a disk. Be aware that you need to match friction at front and back this can make many meters of stopping difference and make the car stable under braking. If you are really keen you may want to experiment with a brake bias valve such as the ones Wilwood make. Regards Liam > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:37:12 +1200 (NZST) To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Liam Venter Subject: 4age Head flow figures I thought the following head flow figures may be of interest to some members of the group. These are from a friends engine that he is building for circut racing. If any one has any comments or suggestions we would be interested. We still have not decided on the Cams to go with this head. He wants power from 4000 rpm to 8000rpm. Some one with a fancy dyno program that takes into account head flow figures may have some fun with the information below. These figures are on a 4age small inlet port redtop engine without TVIS. The combustion chamber has had the Joggles removed as per the TRD specifications for the group A race and rally engine. The exhaust port has been cleaned up just behind the valve seat. The valves have been given a three angle cut. The valve guides have been cut shorter so they do not intrude so far into the ports but they have not been shaped. No other work has been performed. Had flow figures. I0 inches of water. In ex Lift CFM Lift CFM 0.060" 31.5 0.050 17.0 0.120" 65.0 0.100 39.7 0.180 94.4 0.150 62.6 0.240 108.4 0.200 75.9 0.300 111.1 0.250 82.0 0.360 112.5 0.300 84.6 Other engine modifications Lightened flywheel 9lb Bore and Stroke: Bore = 81mm Stroke = 77mm Pistons standard 10.3:1 pistons with thin head gasget. Exhaust valves standard Exhaust port smallest diameter 21 mm 85mm exhaust face to valve face Exhaust Primary length 775 mm Inlet valves standard Inside diameter of primaries 30.5 mm Inlet port smallest diameter 25.5 mm 85mm inlet face to valve face inlet manifold 52 mm face to face carb/inlet manifold 10 mm carburettor length 118 mm current inlet trumpet length 42 mm xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 17:26:30 PST From: "Paddy McManus" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name :Paddy McManus Location :London UK (though I was a member before when I was in Japan) Model :1995 Supra TTurbo Aerotop Engine :2JZ-GTE 2997 Mods :speed limiter removed (thus able to burn around Germany at 280kph/168mph) email :pmcmanus@internet.spco.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 21:26:59 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Distributor Woes In a message dated 96-07-02 09:18:33 EDT, you write: << How many miles are on this engine? Sometimes blow-by will start coming out weird places like the distributor if the PCV is clogged or overwhelmed. >> Hey! I checked the PCV as you and Bruce mentioned could be the cause and the TVIS side fitting for the hose between the cam cover and TVIS was completely plugged with sludge. It wasn't a thick barrier, but enough that would stop gasses from going by I'm sure. This could explain why I got the sudden oil leaks when I didn't have any before... it may have been 90% clogged and then finally totally clogged and thus forcing oil leaks. Hmmm... I'll be throwing the distributor back in this weekend after a short vacation, and then cleaning out the PCV system with a good cleaner. I don't see any recommendations in the Green book, so I figure a good carb/injection cleaner like Gumout will work, blasting it into the TVIS side while the engine is running. Suggestions? I plan on doing it while the engine is running so I don't foul the plugs, or at least have less of a chance of fouling them. Do you think this could have caused my rough idle also? New cap/rotor/wires didn't solve that one (all were bad so no money wasted). Hopefully this will solve the leaky distributor problem anyway, I'll let you know. Dave Aucott daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 22:15:26 +1200 Subject: Catalytic Convertors I suspect that my Japanese imported Celica GTR 86 has at least one of these puppies in it somewhere, as well as some sort of limitation device to keep the speed below 180kmh. While I'm going to replace my air filter with something a little more horsey soon, I've heard that catalytic convertors (while friendly to our environment) hurt performance of the vehicle. Question: is it possible to remove the catalytic convertor? Should I? Will it give increased performance, and/or fuel consumption? Am I asking to be put in the hurt locker by any local authorities who govern emissions? :) If I remove a speed limiter (if any), is it likely to be integral to the car (like a special gear box) or something simpler? Should I take it off? :) Argh, I hate not knowing about these things. Time to get a mechanics course under my belt. Where's that polytechnic enrolment form gone... Thanks all Richard Parry -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: gettlerj@hanscom.af.mil Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 8:50:34 EDT To: Subject: Speed Limiter HI!!!... :-) Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA?? If so, could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but I was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)?? Thanks. Jim Gettler gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:38:00 -0400 From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account)) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Warped brakes > I still have a problem with my brakes, possibly warped again, within 12 months > (Toyota part as well!). I am now starting to get a scraping sound as I go > around a right hand bend only. Brakes still judder under high speed braking > 70mph or higher. As you say the noises coming from the brakes is quite anoying > not to mention a bit concerning. > Any help on the "ch..ch..ch..ch" noise. > thanks The scraping is probably just the disk hitting the metal splash shield. As you go around a corner the wheel and disk flex a little and if the shield is too close it will scrape. I had this problem. To fix it, just bend the splash shield a little farther from the disk, its a 15 second job with the wheel off. Jon 90 Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Warped brakes Date: Wed, 03 Jul 96 09:49:48 PDT Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are warped. I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder as I go faster. I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. How it happened is still a puzzle to me. It seemed to happened right after I had the springs and shocks installed by someone. I'm not sure if this is just by coincidence. I'm pretty sure they come from the front brakes. My question is, how bad does this do to the car. I could care less about the rotors, I'm thinking of replacing or resurfacing them anyways. What about the engine? Does this warping give unnecessary strain to the engine? I knew the brakes were warped before. Every time I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan from the wheels like the rotors were warped. I just don't know why the sound comes up when I drive normally. Not to mention the noise is quite annoying. Any help is appreciated. Richard '86 Celica GTS =============================================================================== I still have a problem with my brakes, possibly warped again, within 12 months (Toyota part as well!). I am now starting to get a scraping sound as I go around a right hand bend only. Brakes still judder under high speed braking 70mph or higher. As you say the noises coming from the brakes is quite anoying not to mention a bit concerning. Any help on the "ch..ch..ch..ch" noise. thanks Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 105000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 12:11:34 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter) Subject: warped brakes In the MR2 FAQ it mentions that warpage can occur when the wheel lugs are not torqued to specs (76 ft/lbs). 85-86 were more prone to warping than later models. My '88 Novarolla and '89 MkI both warped after a tire-ape didn't follow instructions when torqueing my wheels. I believe there was a discussion a while back about aftermarket rotors that might cure this problem. They are definitley on my "to do" list this summer. Kelly Carter '89 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Speed Limiter Date: Wed, 03 Jul 96 12:18:00 PDT Don't think it has one. I think the Supra turbo is the only Toyota with one. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla ---------- >Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA?? If so, >could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but I >was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)?? Thanks. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 13:42:14 -0700 (PDT) From: ILV83779 Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: warped brakes > In the MR2 FAQ it mentions that warpage can occur when the wheel lugs are > not torqued to specs (76 ft/lbs). 85-86 were more prone to warping than > later models. My '88 Novarolla and '89 MkI both warped after a tire-ape It was also mentioned a while back that brake warpage can occur when the brakes are kept on during our frequent intersection stops. Since keeping the brakes on the rotor traps heat, it will effect it. It is recommended that when possible, put the car in neutral and let off the brakes during traffic driving. I guess this isn't a problem for X-drilled rotors. KEndrick 93T MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 19:07:43 -0400 From: Mark Sink To: "Lucas, Mike" Cc: "'toyota-mods'" Subject: Re: American Gothic >Save American Gothic! Did they ever do a show on modifying Toyota's? If so, I just might have to show my support. Ha Ha. Otherwise.... mark -- mail: mailto:msink@imonics.com home: http://www.webbuild.com/~toy4two/ work: http://www.imonics.com/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 16:46:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Lucas, Mike" Subject: American Gothic To: "'toyota-mods'" Save American Gothic! For anyone who ever liked the show "American Gothic" there is an e-mail petition to keep it on the air, but the deadline is today (July 3) (although it couldn't hurt to send it even if you're late). You just have to send an e-mail message to with your name and e-mail address in the body, and something like "AG petition" as the subject. Hey, even if you never watched this show you should still send the mail so that you can watch it later! Take it from someone who loves X-Files, Star Wars, Indepedence Day, and Japanese sports cars. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 17:59:28 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Richard Ngun Name : Richard Ngun Location : Vancouver, BC, Canada Model : 1990 Celica GTS Engine : 5S-FE Mods : K&N filter email : rngun@intergate.bc.ca oOOOo | O o | "Mistakes? Impossible! I \ ' / have an error correcting / \ modem!" oOO OOo V A N C O U V E R C A N U C K S ' 9 6 .-=[ rngun@intergate.bc.ca ]=-. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 20:03:14 -0500 (CDT) From: Kerry Haunt To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations > So, does anyone have any experience or thoughts on aftermarket, > external wastegates? I think I'm going to have to get one to solve this > problem. The other alternative is to get an F-CON and FCD, which will > not prevent the boost from spiking but it will keep the fuel cut from > happening. I just worry that the higher boost I run the higher it's > going to spike, and when I run 20 PSI of boost I don't want to spike up > to 30. > > Also, I've 90% decided to go ahead and do the injector upgrade, even > though it puts me farther in debt... at this point, I'm pretty much just > treating my car repairs/enhancements as getting behind another car loan. > I plan to keep this car forever anyway... :) Given that I'm going > farther into debt to do it, I'm going to keep costs to a minimum and I > expect I'm going to do the Lexus AFM/Lucas injectors like Reg has done. > I should be able to get all the parts for under $1000 and I hope to get > the labor done for less than $400. > > Aaron B. > 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo > The cheapest way to fix the problem is to port the wastegate but external wastegate will be much more accurate. If I were you I would get the FCD and F-Con and external wastegate. No fuel cut, more power and accurate boost control, problem is money. Kerry H. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:40:20 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations Hi guys. I'm now up to 2200 miles on the new engine. As soon as I hit 1500 I cranked the boost level up and started playing with it. It felt really strong when I first cranked it up, but now it's becoming routine again. :) The bad part is that I have worse boost spiking than ever. I have my EVC III set at .55 bar (8.1 PSI!) and I still hit the fuel cut when I accelerate real hard. I think this is mainly due to my turbo, which is a stock CT26 modified with a much larger (Super-H) compressor wheel and clipped exhaust wheel. It has a larger intake, but the same size scroll area and the stock integral wastegate. This turbo really almost behaves in a binary manner, especially when launched hard. I hardly get any boost up to about 3000, then between 3000 and 4000 it comes on _hard_, especially in first and second gear. In first gear if I start with the accelerator floored, the car eases off the line then squats a lot when I hit 4000 rpm, very noticeable. Anyway, I think boost is building just too darn fast under those conditions for the stock waste gate to open fast enough to bleed it off. I think the stock waste gate is a) too slow and b) too small an opening for the current state of my car. Also, I've noticed that the stock boost gauge seems to respond fairly slowly, which is partially why I've been confused about my boost spiking problem. I would hit the fuel cut before the boost needle hit 8 psi. But if I watch the boost gauge built into the EVC III I see the boost go up fast when I hit 4000 rpm and spike above .55 PSI almost immediately. The problem especially seems to occur if I'm accelerating from a stop around a turn, since the load on the engine is greater and everyone knows the greater the engine load the faster the boost comes on (to a point), which is why with simple boost bleeders it's hard to hit max boost in first gear. Even though I have the "fuzzy logic" EVC III, which supposedly prevents boost spiking, I'm still having this problem. I think this is due to the way the EVC III is tuned. You put the car in 3rd gear at 1000 rpm then floor it. Using this method, the boost slowly increases from 1000-3000 rpm and then speeds up a bit from 3000 on to the stock boost limit. You do that three times and supposedly the EVC III then "knows" the response curve of the turbo. The problem is that the response curve under that gradually increasing engine rpm scenario is far different than when you've launched hard, ran through first gear, then slammed into second gear. In this scenario, the turbo is already spinning at high speed and you generally pop the clutch at 2000-3000 rpm. Obviously the turbo will respond much quicker and come onto boost far faster in this scenario than it does in the EVC learn scenario. I've tried doing the EVC learn thing in lower gears and at higher rpms, but that always seems to get worse results, more spiking, maybe because the learn program can't keep up with the rapidly changing parameters under those conditions. So, does anyone have any experience or thoughts on aftermarket, external wastegates? I think I'm going to have to get one to solve this problem. The other alternative is to get an F-CON and FCD, which will not prevent the boost from spiking but it will keep the fuel cut from happening. I just worry that the higher boost I run the higher it's going to spike, and when I run 20 PSI of boost I don't want to spike up to 30. Also, I've 90% decided to go ahead and do the injector upgrade, even though it puts me farther in debt... at this point, I'm pretty much just treating my car repairs/enhancements as getting behind another car loan. I plan to keep this car forever anyway... :) Given that I'm going farther into debt to do it, I'm going to keep costs to a minimum and I expect I'm going to do the Lexus AFM/Lucas injectors like Reg has done. I should be able to get all the parts for under $1000 and I hope to get the labor done for less than $400. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:54:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations Also, I should mention that as an experiment while travelling down the interstate today I floored it in fifth gear and slowly increased the boost .01 bar (.147 psi) at a time (one neat trick to do with the EVC) until the fuel cut kicked in. It kicked in at .68 bar, about 10.0 PSI. As I understand it the fuel cut is not caused by a certain boost level, it is caused by a certain mass air flow level determined by the AFM. Since my engine is bored bigger than stock and since I have an upgraded, extremely low pressure loss intercooler (but still have the stock fuel computer, which is rare for my level of mods -- anyone know someone else in a similar situation?) I get a higher level of air flow at 10 psi than stock, presumably equivalent airflow to a stock car at 12 to 13 psi, so I don't think there's anything "wrong" with my car. But it is pretty darn aggravating!!! All this potential under the hood and the party-pooper ECU freaks out and calls a halt to the fun. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:41:19 -0500 (CDT) From: Kerry Haunt To: Aaron Buhr Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations > > I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I > wonder how much effect it would have. And I wish I could afford to do it > all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger > injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and > FCD. > > Aaron B. > 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo > How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the injectors. This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse rate. I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors. This way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi. Also Ara (MKIV) posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought Kerry H. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:15:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Kerry Haunt Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt wrote: > The cheapest way to fix the problem is to port the wastegate but > external wastegate will be much more accurate. If I were you I would get > the FCD and F-Con and external wastegate. No fuel cut, more power and > accurate boost control, problem is money. I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I wonder how much effect it would have. And I wish I could afford to do it all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and FCD. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 23:44:58 -0400 (EDT) From: Joseph Horton To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: How often do you buy a car? To Buy or to upgrade, that is the ? >> I am wondering how often do you buy cars? We used to get them every four years, but they are getting more reliable and more expen$ive -- we haven't gotten a new one since '89 (not counting my '73, which we bought two years ago). >> I can't justify buying another car since I already have two It seems to me that a Typhoon or a Supra-TT would fit about the same niche as your M3 (I think that was your point), though I'm kind of a Bimmer fan myself. >> 89 BMW M3 - install an ERT Supercharger w/custom chip ($6k). Do those only go on M3's or do they also go on other E30 models -- the 325iX in particular? I'm curious about this supercharger, because I've never heard of such a mod before and it sounds like fun ;) Chuck xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:53:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: supraman Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, supraman wrote: > I think your problem could lie in your fuel system. No only is the fuel cut defencer needed but I > think your stock computer is having trouble matching up fuel delivery with the increased air flow of the H trim > upgrade. Many people use that Turbonetics upgrade with great success but they all have F-cons and VPC's (or > at least the ones I know). I think the F-con and FCD will solve your problems. The bigger injectors and air > box are a good idea too. I think Reg is running a Lexus air box conversion and is quite happy with the > results. One other problem that you could have is the stock swing-valve type waste gate. I hate those things > and would strongly recommend a Turbonetics deltagate or a HK$ one. Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I really can't justify sinking another $3000 into the car right now. What is your opinion on how I can get the most horsepower out of my current setup for $1500? The options are: 1) Get the Lexus AFM/Lucas injector upgrade. I expect that since the injectors are 25% larger than stock (550 vs. 440) the Lexus AFM has about the same ratio, so that the fuel cut will occur 25% higher with it than it does now. Since now I hit cut at 25 absolute PSI, the fuel cut would then be somewhere around 31.25 PSI absolute, or around 16.25 psi relative to atmospheric. With my boost spiking problem I expect I could set my boost to around 13 psi and not spike above 16.25. This is _with_ larger injectors. Horsepower: ???? Cost: $1400. 2) Get the FCON/FCD and external wastegate. This should allow me to go as high boost as I want, but I expect the stock injectors can't supply fuel to make any boost level beyond 12-13 PSI worthwhile, especially with my high-flow H-trim turbo and low-restriction intercooler. Horsepower: ???? Cost: $1300-$1400. 3) Get the FCON/FCD and Lucas injectors. This should allow me to go as high boost as I want and supply fuel for it, but if I run high boost levels (above 18 PSI) I expect I will get a 4+ PSI spike (without an external wastegate) and I worry about cracking valves or spark plugs with that kind of spike. This is the highest hp of these three scenarios, but it will also probably cost about $2000 (without external wastegate), and that's hard to stomach right now. Does anyone have any of the following they'd like to sell me, or know where I can get them cheap? 1) FCON & FCD for '90 7MGTE 2) 550 cc injectors for '90 7MGTE 3) external wastegate? Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:55:59 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations I should mention that it's going to kill me if I have to settle for 8 PSI of boost after all this... :-/ Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 00:05:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Kerry Haunt Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt wrote: > How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the > injectors. This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse > rate. I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors. This > way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi. Also Ara (MKIV) > posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run > rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought Along those same lines, has anyone had any experience with using adjustable fuel pressure regulators that increase fuel pressure as boost increases? They should be fairly cheap. I monitor the f-body (Camaro & Firebird) mailing list to keep an eye on the competition and they have guys running 10 lbs of supercharged boost on their 350 ci V8s using their stock 24lb/hr (or whatever unit) fuel injectors, with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If it works for them, I'd think it would work for us. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 00:13:46 -0500 (CDT) From: Timberwolf To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Boost Spiking On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote: > Anyway, I think boost is building just too darn fast under those > conditions for the stock waste gate to open fast enough to bleed it off. > I think the stock waste gate is a) too slow and b) too small an opening for > the current state of my car. Also, I've noticed that the stock boost > gauge seems to respond fairly slowly, which is partially why I've been > confused about my boost spiking problem. I would hit the fuel cut before > the boost needle hit 8 psi. But if I watch the boost gauge built into the > EVC III I see the boost go up fast when I hit 4000 rpm and spike above .55 > bar almost immediately. Hmmm...OK, since this is my first post to any of these lists, I hope this works... What I had suggested from a friend who owns a '90 Talon TSi was that you may not have large enough vaccum lines leading between the EVC III and the wastegate on both sides. Apparently someone on the Talon list had similar problems with boost spiking, since the EVC wants to snap the wategate open very quickly and the vaccum lines just couldn't suck hard enough. :) Also, he suggested porting the wategate housing on the exhaust side, since that may be part of the problem as well. Hmmm...I'm not sure what mods you have on there, but he also just suggested that it might be too restrictive an exhaust system. Mind you, these are all his suggestions. I'm just a lowly little MR2 MKI n/a owner. These turboed thingys are above me... Dave, aka =Timberwolf= '87 MR2 MKI "The Top" (It spins! ) '85 GS700ES "Zook" xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 00:45:48 EST Subject: Re: Warped brakes Have you checked the amount of brake pad you have left? There is a metal pad wear indicator that starts rubbing on the rotor and making terrible sounds once you have worn your pads down to that level. Just a stab in the dark. :-) ** Reply to note from Tony York 07/03/96 09:49am PDT > Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are > warped. I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder > as I go faster. I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. > How it happened is still a puzzle to me. It seemed to happened right > after I had the springs and shocks installed by someone. I'm not sure if > this is just by coincidence. I'm pretty sure they come from the front > brakes. My question is, how bad does this do to the car. I could care > less about the rotors, I'm thinking of replacing or resurfacing them > anyways. What about the engine? Does this warping give unnecessary > strain to the engine? I knew the brakes were warped before. Every time > I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan > from the wheels like the rotors were warped. I just don't know why the > sound comes up when I drive normally. Not to mention the noise is quite > annoying. Any help is appreciated. > > Richard > '86 Celica GTS > > =============================================================================== > > I still have a problem with my brakes, possibly warped again, within 12 months > (Toyota part as well!). I am now starting to get a scraping sound as I go > around a right hand bend only. Brakes still judder under high speed braking > 70mph or higher. As you say the noises coming from the brakes is quite anoying > not to mention a bit concerning. > Any help on the "ch..ch..ch..ch" noise. > thanks > > Tony York > > 1 Woodley Chase > Duston > Northampton > England > NN5 6PS > > Tel: 01604 586200 > Email: york@radstone.co.uk > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. > Colour: White > Engine: 4A-GE > Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter > Miles: 105000 > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Kind regards, Harry Pitaro _____________________ Melbourne, Australia pitaro@ozemail.com.au ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 01:52:00 -0400 From: Andy To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Aaron Buhr , Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations Kerry Haunt wrote: > > > > > I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I > > wonder how much effect it would have. And I wish I could afford to do it > > all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger > > injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and > > FCD. > > > > Aaron B. > > 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo > > > How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the > injectors. This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse > rate. I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors. This > way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi. Also Ara (MKIV) > posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run > rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought > > Kerry H. I believe this is done also with a high pressure regulator along with a high pressure pump. The regulator increases the pressure in the rail causing more fuel to spray during the pulse rate. ../andy xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary H To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: How often do you buy a car? To Buy or to upgrade, that is the ? Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 23:15:42 -0700 Hi There, I am wondering how often do you buy cars? In my family, my parents usually buy a car every four years since '78. This is about the time most people saved enough money to purchase something big, like a car/truck. It's been about four years since I purchased my last car and I'm tempted to get a used truck (GMC Typhoon) or car (Supra TT). Only thing is I can't justify buying another car since I already have two, an 82 Celica GT and 89 BMW M3. Should I use the money on upgrades? If I upgrade, I would do the following: 82 Celica GT - install an LC 22R 200HP engine ($6k), or 89 BMW M3 - install an ERT Supercharger w/custom chip ($6k). Currently, the car that needs to be fixed up is the Celica. The engine has worn rings (160K miles). The reason why I would not do it is because the Celica is worth about $1.5k, and putting in $6k sounds ridiculous. There is absolutely no problems with th 89 M3. Putting $6k into it seems more justifiable only because that car is worth a whole lot more than the Celica. The Celica, however, is more in need of an upgrade. Also, if I upgrade vs buying, I'll save on car insurance! Comments? Thanks, Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:21:51 -0700 Subject: Re: warped brakes To: ILV83779 Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, ILV83779 wrote: >It was also mentioned a while back that brake warpage can occur when the >brakes are kept on during our frequent intersection stops. Since keeping >the brakes on the rotor traps heat, it will effect it. It is recommended >that when possible, put the car in neutral and let off the brakes during >traffic driving. >I guess this isn't a problem for X-drilled rotors. Naw, they just crack under stress. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo (Sold? Back maybe? Dont' ask.) _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:38:53 -0700 Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations To: Kerry Haunt , Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt wrote: > How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the >injectors. This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse >rate. I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors. This >way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi. Also Ara (MKIV) >posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run >rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought I think I read somewhere that most injectors are designed to run with much more than stock pressure to them. Changing the pressure will definately affect the mix. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo (Sold? Back maybe? Dont' ask.) _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 08:16:48 -0500 (CDT) From: Kerry Haunt To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations On Thu, 4 Jul 1996, Andy wrote: > Kerry Haunt wrote: > > > > > > > > I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I > > > wonder how much effect it would have. And I wish I could afford to do it > > > all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger > > > injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and > > > FCD. > > > > > > Aaron B. > > > 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo > > > > > How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the > > injectors. This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse > > rate. I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors. This > > way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi. Also Ara (MKIV) > > posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run > > rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought > > > > Kerry H. > > I believe this is done also with a high pressure regulator along with a high > pressure pump. The regulator increases the pressure in the rail causing more > fuel to spray during the pulse rate. > > ../andy > True, but just a high pressure fuel pump will help alot, the dsm guys I know runs stock regulator, high flow pump and upgraded turbos. On stock injectors. Changing both probably allows even more fuel. Kerry H. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Speed Limiter To: gettlerj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 12:34:36 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > HI!!!... :-) > > Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA?? If so, > could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but I > was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)?? Thanks. > > Jim Gettler > gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil > Jim, I noticed in the Select Sales catalog that they have a speed limiter defeater available. Their number is (305) 888-2828. Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: Speed Limiter To: gettlerj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 12:39:05 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > HI!!!... :-) > > Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA?? If so, > could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but I > was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)?? Thanks. > > Jim Gettler > gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil > Jim, I just remembered that I'm not sure if Select Sales was selling a speed limiter or a rev limiter. Sorry for my misunderstanding. Call Select Sales and check with them. They can probably steer you in the right direction anyway. :) Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 11:58:17 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: Aaron Buhr Cc: supraman , Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote: > Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I really can't justify sinking > another $3000 into the car right now. What is your opinion on how I can > get the most horsepower out of my current setup for $1500? The options are: > Aaron B. I can't tell you what would be best in the short run but I think you should look at it a different way. Don't think about how to get the most out of what you have now, think about what your ultimate goal is (20psi I believe?) Make the money you spend put you towards that goal. Don't worry about running stock boost in the meantime. You are ultimately going to want the injectors, AFM upgrade, FCD/FCON and the external wastegate. It's the only way to do it RIGHT. So, in light of your money situation, I'd spend $500 and get a deltagate. See how that effects your spiking problem (it should help). And then the FCD/FCON to help control fuel delivery at higher boost levels (the stock computer is rather rigid in it's mapping, it's not used to the larger bore and foriegn boost curve.) It won't let you run > 12psi yet, but it sets you up for the next step of injectors and VPC or lexus AFM. Yes, it sucks to spend that kinda money and still have to run near stock boost, but 20psi is worth the wait. - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623 Road racers go in deep and come out hard. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo I don't drive fast, I fly low xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 10:35:31 -0700 From: jgrospe@globalpac.com (jgrospe) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: Joel Grospe Loc'n.: Walnut, CA (Los Angeles suburb) Model: 1992 MR2 Turbo Red Hardtop Engine: 3S-GTE 2.0L 4 cylinder turbocharged Mods: Autolite platinum plugs (try it- seems to pull harder on >5K rpms than stock NDs) As of July '96: 55,000 miles e-mail: jgrospe@globalpac.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Gary H To: jah@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: How often do you buy a car? To Buy or to upgrade, that is the ? Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 13:13:06 -0700 Joseph Horton wrote: |>> I am wondering how often do you buy cars? | |We used to get them every four years, but they are getting more reliable and |more expen$ive -- we haven't gotten a new one since '89 (not counting my '73, |which we bought two years ago). Yes, both my cars have been reliable. I keep procrastinate getting another car until something happens to one. The longer I can put this off the better! |>> I can't justify buying another car since I already have two | |It seems to me that a Typhoon or a Supra-TT would fit about the same niche as |your M3 (I think that was your point), though I'm kind of a Bimmer fan myself. I have an E30 M3, not the newer one. That car is fun to drive though. Unfortunately, I drive it about two weekends a month which isn't much. That's about 4 full days in a month not counting the time I take it to work and Friday nights. But don't let that fool ya cuz in those four days, I put on about 800 miles |>> 89 BMW M3 - install an ERT Supercharger w/custom chip ($6k). | |Do those only go on M3's or do they also go on other E30 models -- the 325iX |in particular? |I'm curious about this supercharger, because I've never heard of such a mod |before and it sounds like fun ;) I'll email you info when I get back from my business trip. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 16:18:47 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Richard Ngun Subject: 1990 Celica GTS Anyone done some modifications to a 1990-94 style Celica GTS? oOOOo | O o | "Mistakes? Impossible! I \ ' / have an error correcting / \ modem!" oOO OOo V A N C O U V E R C A N U C K S ' 9 6 .-=[ rngun@intergate.bc.ca ]=-. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 10:47:50 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: More fuel injector theories. Hiya All, >On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt wrote: >> How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the= =20 >>injectors. This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse=20 >>rate. I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors. This= =20 >>way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi. Also Ara (MKIV)=20 >>posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can= run=20 >>rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought > >I think I read somewhere that most injectors are designed to run with much more=20 >than stock pressure to them. Changing the pressure will definately affect= the=20 >mix. > I'm not 100% knowledgeable on the standard computer set-ups, but the way I understand it under normal conditions it doesn't matter how big or what pressure you run in the injectors (Within resonable limits) because the EFI computer system that Toyota uses is a 'closed loop' system. This means that the computer will always go for the 'optimum' fuel/air ratio as measured by the O2 sensor. (What Toyota considers optimum, that is) Where it would make the difference is under full throttle - I've talked with Bruce Connelly and the way I understand it the computer (In a 4AGE at least) ignores the O2 sensor under full throttle and simply runs a pre-programmed injector pulse duty cycle, so you'll get more fuel if you've got more fuel pressure or bigger injectors. I guess that's pretty much what you'd want - normal fuel scheduling for normal driving, and more fuel with a bootful of throttle. I'm not sure if all the Toyota computers of the last few years work on this priciple, but I'd say they'd probably stick to a similar concept all the way throught the models. (Enviromental legislation constraints, etc) The =DF Man. P.S. FWIW, for the Aussies on this list, 'M&M Auto Spares' on the Gold Coast (Ph 07-55371922) will be getting five 100Kw 4AGE's at the end of next week. Make that four - my name's already on one of them. :) ~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-= =3D-~ "Well, I didn't expect the Spanish Inquisition!" "=A1=A1Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!!" ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 20:53:16 -0500 To: Adrienne Mora , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Speed Limiter >> > Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA?? >>If so, >> > could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, >>but I >> > was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)?? Thanks. > >I'm not sure about the later model US cars .. but all the japanese cars have >speed limiters that cut in at about 180-190kph. Now ..... if you've got a >manual .. look up in the EFI system .. specifically the computer. There's >little pictures of the plugs and what all the wires going into them are for. > A fellow MR2er electronics wiz looked in my manual and figured it just a >simple wire cut that goes into the computer .... a purple one i think .. but >best you check it first!! : ) And that's with the earlier SC model, so it >may be different. > >At least I won't hit the dam thing down the back of straight of the local >race track!! (when i finally get my car back together that is : ) > >Ade What does that come out to in mph - 110mph or so? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 22:43:30 -0400 To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: greencg@gate.net Subject: Re: 5th and gone........ Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Ok, i have a lot..i mean A bunch of experience with the VW's , but I just got an 87 Na Mr2, and the only complaint I have about it is that when cruising at approx 55 to 70 mph when i come off throttle the transaxle pops out of 5th. It will stay in as long as I hold it in, or stay on the throttle. any ideas? greencg@gate.netAt 11:21 PM 7/1/96 -0400, you wrote: >Shafted, > I lost a bolt out of the tranny and it slowly lost oil. >The fifth gear is "external" so it gets the least lube in such a situation. >The "diamond" cut on the gear had sheared off on one side (while I was >driving X-country), so the sleave would no longer lock in place. >On deceleration, it would stay fine. But, as soon as I touched the gas >**pop**.......out it came. (And I had to drive a long way in 4th) :( > >By 're-notching' the gear, it allowed the sleave something to grab onto to >hold it into gear. Works fine. 90,000 miles proven. >(Keep in mind, this is my daily driver. I do not race or drag my baby.) > >This whole project was a crap-shoot. >I really had know idea it would work, but I had nothing to lose. >If it didn't work, I would have had to replace the gear anyway. >Who knew? >I used a LOT of carb cleaner as I went along to keep the grindings out of the >rest of the tranny. >I filled it with t-fluid, drove to work and back and then changed it again to >be sure. >(20,000 miles back I dropped an oil additive in it ---like "DuraLube"--- just >to maybe buy myself some more miles before I have to do a total rebuild. > >Any questions? > >Until Next.........................Robert > '85 MK1 179,500......... > Chris Green Greencg@gate.net hklj21a@prodigy.com "Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve neither" BF "mmmmmmmm.......Doughnut........" HS " The secret to a good life , Is knowing when your through " William " Duke " Divens R.I.P. 12-12-96 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Starlet16v@aol.com Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 00:02:20 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Fwd: Muffler What car comes with this engine....1MZ-FE engine? Radley --------------------- Forwarded message: From: skchang@ucdavis.edu (Shung-Kung Chang) Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: 96-07-02 14:20:15 EDT Hi: Have you tried any Remus muffler? Is it good? I'm thinking to replace my stock muffler with Remus but I would like to have some inputs before I spend $400 for a muffler on 1MZ-FE engine. Sincerely Shung-Kung Chang xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 23:54:26 -0600 From: Rick Martinez Subject: JR bolt on air filter for Corolla GTS To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com The other day I noticed that someone on this list has a Corolla GTS with a JR bolt on air filter. I was just wondering what kind of design this filter is and where it was purchased. Thanks Rick Martinez rickm@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Fri, 5 Jul 96 10:50:45 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Speed Limiter To the list, The Japnesse cars do have a speed limiter and it just about killed me one day racing. However for the 4Ag please dont cut the wire you may get an error code at over 100 KM/Hour because the ECU measures the vac and says the speed cannot be zero. Same thing if you take the speedo out. I havent tried this on other than MR2 and AE 86 and AE82 however the speed circuit comes from the speedo itself. To defeat the circuit remove the dash and locate the speed sensing ciruit it is clearly seen as a rotating mechanism which what looks like a bi-metalic strip from a heater. The probe of the strip moves up and down over a certain speed and the ECU counts the pulses until it reaches the cut out rate. Remove one of the connecting bolts behind the speedo which connects this strip. The ECU does not log an error. You can sometimes check if your car has one of these devices, the speedo will sometimes hesitate at 100-120kmh or bounce backwards for a short time then continue to high speed. This bouncing is the pulsing mechanism cutting in. I dont know how this works on the other toyota's, perhaps I had better buy a new MR2 and find out. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 09:21:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Re: Speed Limiter To: Toyota Mods > > Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA?? If > so, > > could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but > I > > was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)?? Thanks. > > I'm not sure about the later model US cars .. but all the japanese cars have speed limiters that cut in at about 180-190kph. Now ..... if you've got a manual .. look up in the EFI system .. specifically the computer. There's little pictures of the plugs and what all the wires going into them are for. A fellow MR2er electronics wiz looked in my manual and figured it just a simple wire cut that goes into the computer .... a purple one i think .. but best you check it first!! : ) And that's with the earlier SC model, so it may be different. At least I won't hit the dam thing down the back of straight of the local race track!! (when i finally get my car back together that is : ) Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 09:26:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Catalytic Convertors To: Toyota Mods Hi Richard : ) > Question: is it possible to remove the catalytic convertor? Should > I? Will it give increased performance, and/or fuel consumption? Am > I asking to be put in the hurt locker by any local authorities who > govern emissions? :) There are no laws YET about cats in NZ ... you going to be far more friendly to the environment by having a well tuned car, than by having a cat that takes 15 mins to warm up. Getting all the smoking heaps of s**t off the road would be another huge step in the environmentally friendly direction. > If I remove a speed limiter (if any), is it likely to be integral to > the car (like a special gear box) or something simpler? Should I > take it off? :) yeah .. it should be simple .. see my other post .. but i'm not going to remove it from my road car. I personally don't see the need to go that fast on public roads .... partly because I'm building a race car to fulfill that neeed >; ) > Argh, I hate not knowing about these things. Time to get a mechanics > course under my belt. Where's that polytechnic enrolment form > gone... hehehe .. you and me both ... but hey ... welcome to the School of the Internet! : ) Later Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 19:26:39 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: ASCII Characters Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I would like to point out that some ASCII characters used at/for signatures etc DO NOT come out as expected in some mail programs such as the EUDORA. In this respect please try to avoid them, especially within HTTP addresses as for some of us it is not very easy to de-cipher them. Thanks for the understanding, xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 23:35:59 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: Engine Upgrade for RA28 Celica I know this is a very big ask but what is the best engine mod to do for about $200AUS. It is the standard 18R. I already have extractors, and these made a huge difference to the torque. I still have the stock air filter. Should I replace this so the engine can breath better?? I should be getting my suspension any day now so I will tell you what everything is when I get it. Hopefully it will get rid of mid corner bounce and oversteer when i back off the accelerator. Oh well thanks for the advice. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gary Friedman" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 15:36:55 +0000 Subject: Tire wear (SP8000) I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T. I got the rears in October/95 and have only put 5000 miles on the car since then. I noticed that the rear end was kind of noisy on my drive home today and took a look-- they are just about down to the wear lines!! I have fun driving but I don't think I drive aggressively enough to wear them out in 5K miles/9 months!! I expected about 10K or so out of these tires and they are the first tires I have managed to wear out evenly-- no over- or under-inflation wear at all. While there is no mileage warranty on them, Dunlop's "Customer Satisfaction Department" said to take them to a dealer and have them call after inspecting the tires. Should I expect Dunlop to make any kind of adjustment?? Has anyone else managed to kill Z-rated tires this quickly? Do any of the tire wizards out there think Yoko AVS will last a wee bit longer if I switch?? Thanks for any input..... Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 12:11:39 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: jacsport@escape.ca (jackson autosport) Subject: me/mine/mods Name: John Jackson Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Model: 82 Supra Engine: 5MGE Mods: update to 1985 5MGE headers dual stainless steel exhaust K & N powerflow 4.30 LSD rear end Momo steeering wheel Bosch lights xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 07 Jul 96 15:57:04 -0700 From: rockwell To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Celica Supra Do you have any info. on how to turn a Celica in to a Supra, such as body style and engine?? E-Mail back at ERMAC81@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 17:12:38 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall) Subject: Warning lights Today is an unusually hot day here in Vancouver about 30 celcius the hottest day this year, anyway my 86 was behaving fine for the most part this morning I was doing a lot of shopping after one stop when I went to restart it everything started fine except my cooling fan light and my brake and charge lights failed to turn off. So I checked the coolant brake fluid codes ect and all that came up was a code 10 which according to the haynes manual means starter signal( no signal to ECU when engine is running over 800rpm.) Trouble area: Starter Relay circuit, IG switch circuit, IG switch, ECU. I have no idea what to do or how to fix this problem. It runs perfectly normal and when the rpms hit 4800 the lights turn off for just over 2 minutes, then they reappear unless I take the revs up to 4800 or so. Any ideas in what this may be it seems kind of wierd that every thing whould come on all at the same time. Time for a new ECU maybe ? =-( Please help Dave McCristall Vancouver Canada McCristall Telephone 604 533-4098 Fax 604 533-7998 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 22:02:45 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd) Subject: Camry Starter Grinding Recently my '87 Camry (75Kmi.) began occasionaly giving a horrible= grinding sound when the key is turned and the starter tries to engage. = Usually everything is OK on a second try. Sometimes three tries are= needed. The starter pinion is definately not engaging with the ring gear= when this happens and I'm afraid I'll damage the ring gear teeth. Anybody think its just a sticky pinion gear on the starter and I can free= it up, or is my problem probably more involved than that? Have any list= members had this problem? Thanks. Dick Byrd byrd@mnsinc.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: CARREON_JUAN@tandem.com Date: 8 Jul 96 23:22:00 +1700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Tire wear (SP8000) Gary, I have had same problem with my Datsun 280Z, the rear tires seem to go really fast, 5 to 10k. I have two size tires, 205/60 14 upfront and 245/50 14 rear. Get very good grip ...but they do wear fast. On my '83 Carmy I have all tires same size and get execellent mileage. I am able to rotate tires on the Carmy...etc. Since I have two different sizes on 280Z I cannot rotate the tires. Presently ratio is 2.5 rear tires to single raplacement of front tires. Only different between rear and front is size. I currently have Dunlop. Generally I have just written this off as price of fun ;) Juan ------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT -------- SENT 07-08-96 FROM SMTPGATE (gfriedmn@ipof.fla.net) I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T. I got the rears in October/95 and have only put 5000 miles on the car since then. I noticed that the rear end was kind of noisy on my drive home today and took a look-- they are just about down to the wear lines!! I have fun driving but I don't think I drive aggressively enough to wear them out in 5K miles/9 months!! I expected about 10K or so out of these tires and they are the first tires I have managed to wear out evenly-- no over- or under-inflation wear at all. While there is no mileage warranty on them, Dunlop's "Customer Satisfaction Department" said to take them to a dealer and have them call after inspecting the tires. Should I expect Dunlop to make any kind of adjustment?? Has anyone else managed to kill Z-rated tires this quickly? Do any of the tire wizards out there think Yoko AVS will last a wee bit longer if I switch?? Thanks for any input..... Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:00:02 +1200 Subject: Manuals? Being the chump I am, I purchased my Sleeka as an import here in NZ. No manuals, nothing. Anywhere in NZ that I can get manuals for the pup? I looked in the suppliers list, but it looks like they're US suppliers - I'd prefer a local supplier. Any of you kiwi folk out there can help, do let me know. Cheerio Richard -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: Warning lights Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 07:16:00 PDT Typically when the dash lights won't go off its your alternator that is bad. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ---------- >this morning I was doing a lot of shopping after one stop when I went to >restart it everything started fine except my cooling fan light and my brake >and charge lights failed to turn off. So I checked the coolant brake fluid xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: JR bolt on air filter for Corolla GTS Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 08:32:30 PDT Hi, yes I do have a JR Bolt on air filter. It is from Fensport Performance Toyota Parts in England. It is a very basic design, tubular and completely hollow and clamps staight on to your intake system. Nothing special but does the job; quite noisy though when cold, nice growl and whistle. Any other info required just let me know. =============================================================================== >The other day I noticed that someone on this list has a Corolla GTS with >a JR bolt on air filter. I was just wondering what kind of design this >filter is and where it was purchased. >Thanks >Rick Martinez >rickm@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 105000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 08:49:48 +1200 To: richard@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: Manuals? Richard, I would be tempted to try to use the standard Toyota manuals (about $100-120 NZ each) as much of the info is the same for the imports - but obviously not all. Go and snivel at your friendly Toyota dealer for a look at their stuff and see if it is worth it. I buy all my manuals etc from either from Toyota direct or Technical Books in Wellington or Auckland, or Vital Books in Auckland. Sorry I don't have addresses but telecom directories (Dial 018) will provide. Check for pricing - Tech books etc discount 10% for car club members, but not generally on manuals. Hope this is of help Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Best fun you can have with your pants on. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:21:03 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Triple rotor lotus story OK, here is all I know on this beast - sorry it isn't much. I hope you find this interesting, if not toyota related. Apparently a mazda rotay is either A: a screw in light bulb or B: a chicken cooker. That should settle the loyalty issues! Barry Leitch builds anything you want if you are willing to pay, including sevens, Brabham BT21s and Lotus 23s. He has also done one-off 1/4 scale sevens and 6 foot long aluminium bodied cobras for rich children... Anyway, he sells a few sevens to Japan, and a client over there wanted one with a Mazda triple rotor 20B intercooled turbo. Barry said he would build one if the price was right, and I guess it was. I dunno much other than it is almost finished and runs the mazda motor, box and I believe diff. It has a fully independent rear (not deDion) and inboard rear suspension. I think front is inboard also. It has a beefed up spaceframe. I am presently trying to do a finite element analysis of the seven spaceframe as a varsity project, but it is too late to help this car! Apparently the motor is 400 horse, so the car should be 700 horse/ton. I am about 275 horse/ton, so is the Dodge Viper. The McLaren Can Am cars of the early 70s were about 1100 horse/ton. Barry is itching to drive it! Neil Fraser, who is the mainstay of NZ seven manufacture has built one with a Nissan 200ZX intercooled turbo, and I believe there is a Sierra Cosworth Turbo one also... I scare myself with just a 20 valve! Hope this answers a few questions Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Sedate seven driver! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:35:03 +1200 To: Erik Berg , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Toyota Elan Erik, In reply to your post, I run a stadard UK Ford Escort live axle in my car, with appropriate suspension mounts, and are really vague on the Sierra one, other than having been in a Caterham HPC with a Sierra Cosworth box and diff. Pity it isn't an easy swap due to those space problems. Of course it can be made to fit, it all comes down to how much you want to chop and fabricate. I am really ignorant on the Hewland etc. If the diff is strong enuff given sensible throttle/clutch application, why not just concentrate on the axles/universals (CVs etc), and accept some wishbone redesign to eliminate the binding? I assume this results from the rubber donuts having the flexibility to cater for some not quite right angular velocity and range of movement issues? Yeah, I reckon 7000rpm and clutch dump in first is as bad a loading as you'd get, even if your tyres break loose, there is still a hell of a shock load before they light up. That is how a Caterham JPE gets 0-60 mph in 3.4 secs... I refuse to do that in my car, which theretically should return sub 5 second times. Save that sort of idiocy for those with small brains etc that obviously either don't own the cars or have too much money. See ya Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:46:35 +1200 To: gettlerj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: fooling speed limiters I have been away for a few days, and am trying to catch up. I run a reed switch triggered by a magnet stuck to the driveshaft to get around this, trouble is it still trigers at the same point, about 180k. I think this is more due to the diff ratio (4.44) and 60 profiles on 14 inch rims, ie if you run a taller diff of tyres you will probably be able to rasie the cut out point. Alternately I would (with the benefit of hindsight) consider snipping the wires and removing the check engine light to prevent the error message distracting you. The speed sensor absence does not effect engine performance and if you suffer an EFI glitch it should be apparent without the warning light to tell you. Certainly the only computer I have had die (a GM one) was VERY apparent! You can always put the EFI light back in to check every so often - just ignore the error code for the speed sensor and worry about any others. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Superspint 20 Valve - 180 k is fast enuff for road use for me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:57:27 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 20 valve prices/parts People, the result of my trip to Auckland's engine dealers are as follows: Best prices: 1993 4AGE 20 valve with engine loom (cut at firewall), computer (with plugs but only 10 cm wire out of them) $1650 NZ + GST (12.5% sales tax) = $1260 US Engine only $1500 +GST NZ T-50 Gearbox $200 NZ if buying motor also. How much to freight to US/Aussie!? Please contact me if you want to try exporting one! The motors are easy enuff to get, but the looms and computers aren't. I paid $2500 NZ total for motor, uncut loom, computer, starter, alternator, engine relay/fuse box, airflow meter and wiring diagram 2 years ago. The prices will continue to fall, and availability should improve. Bill, I was unable to find anyone willing to sell parts only, but have yet to try Toyota. Are you still interested? Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 10:41:16 +1200 To: simpson , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 'Toyota' lotus replicas We need our own mailing list! A lot comes up on the mods list 'cos Toyota motors are the most popular/sensible choice (unless you own a caterham). I have tried to contact an unofficial seven homepage but my messages get rejected. I will keep trying, as there is obviously a need for a page, but I don't have the time/knowledge to do it, despite being very interested. Justen wrote: >G'day Phil, >Just a query or two about these lotus replicas that have been appearing >with increasing regularity in Toyota-mods. I've seen a couple of write >ups in Wheels etc on Westfields and the like and they always seemed a bit >expensive to me (+ $30,000). In your experience what would be the >cheapest way to get into one of these cars and which type offers the best >performance. Ideally I would like a good condition car minus motor, >gearbox. As I am 6'2" one of the larger styles might also be more >appropriate. Thanks in advance for any comments. > >Cheers, >Justen I have looked closely at both the Fraser and Leitch in NZ, having built and rebuilt my Leitch and helped a lot with the present build of a Fraser. I have also just volunteered myself to help wire up Adrienne's Fraser (I hope Steve told her) with the supercharged 4AGE. Both Fraser and Leitch are quality products, and I would not recomend one over the other - I would happily own either. Be warned that no seven replicas are the same - the Leitch and Fraser are quite different when you get them side by side, and both have pluses and minuses. I have looked at a recent (post lawsuit) Westfield, and to me is not visually appealing (despite being very well finished - its a design thing). I went for a ride in an ex demonstrator Caterham HPC in UK last year, nice car, but very expensive. I don't think it is any better than the local product, it only has the name. I can't comment on the Aussie replicas, but ether of the NZ ones would not disapoint. As for cheapest method, build new from a kit, do most of it yourself, and buy wisely. Unfinished projects or modifying finished cars can involve much expense and time working backwards before you move forwards. It is very important to remember that the kiwi 'Lotus 7s' evolve continuously - my kit is 4 years old and has a live axle. Now you can get de Dion or fully independent rears, inboard suspension front and back, let alone a much wider engine choice. You need to seriously consider your budget and what you want to use the car for, and spec it accordingly. In NZ I maintain I can build a Fraser/Leitch fully finished with full trim etc (and not cuttng corners) on a standard injected Toyota (ie 20 valve, 4AGE or 3SGE) for about $30k NZ on the road. Thing is once you go inboard, independent, fancier motor (ie 200ZX turbo or modified), wilwoods, 3 piece wheels, race rubber, paint (not polished ally/gelcoat) etc it all goes up. I believe the ZX Turbo Fraser (sold built up) cost $78K...seems a bit high, but I'd believe 60 easy enuff. My car, in December 1992, was registered and on the road for $ 23K NZ($1 NZ =68US cents). That was with injected 4AGE, leather bucket seats, clamshell guards, full carpet, hood, doors, full tonneau, used wheels but new tyres (I was hunting for classic Dulop Alloys which I have recently replaced). I did as much as I could myself, which was everything except exhaust, uphosltery and wheel alignment. The 20 valve rebuild 2 years ago which amounted to a complete re-wire and general tidy up as well and cost another 8K (of which motor cost me 4.5K installed). I reckon I could copy my car for about 27K now. I am 185cm tall and fit ok, and the long cockpits are a bit longer again now. I also have a couple of friends who weigh in at 105 kG - one is real muscle, the other is drinking muscle, and they both squeeze in OK! As for performance, it largely comes down to engine choice, hence all the posts! I would strongly recomend putting in at least 160 horse, and maybe up to 200. I suspect above 200 is a bit silly for road use. I also believe that a lot of toss is written about sevens, especially ex UK, and the notion that a Caterham k series with 130 horse is nicely balaced is written by people who have never driven my car with 165 horse. Most kiwi seven builders want HPC level performance - then again, most escorts sold here were 1600cc, cortina 2000cc whilst in England they were 1100 and 1600 cc respectively. Perks of having hills in NZ and roads you can use a seven on properly! This is long enuff, hope it provides food for thought. Please contact me individually for copies of the magazine articles I have written on engine installations (unforunately they are text only). Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Scares the pants off Supercharged MR2 drivers - Ask Adrienne! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:40:52 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Corolla exhaust opinions? Toyota gurus- I'm looking for some opinions based on experience here. After a couple years in the slushy northeast US, the HKS exhaust on my 87 Corolla GTS rusted out in billions of places and I've gotten sick of trying to patch it up just to have some other part of the system spring a leak. I considered replacing it with another HKS or similar system, but the prices seem to have gone through the roof. So I'm considering a couple of options. One is to have a local muffler shop bend up a 2" pipe to fit from the cat back and stick a DynoMax muffler on the end. I've had a DynoMax on the end of the old HKS pipes for a little while now, and I like the way it sounds. However, as an autocrosser a wide torque band is more important to me than a couple HP on the top end, and there seems to be a noticeable loss of torque at lower rpm with a couple baseball-size holes blown out of the muffler. So the other o