^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^
^^^                                    _______                              ^^^
^^^                                  ,'         - _                         ^^^
^^^                        ________,'__________>>>   - _ ^                  ^^^
^^^                    , '                               |                  ^^^
^^^               ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~.  _  I\/I I~I I~\ <~               ^^^
^^^                I  I_I  |  I_I  I  I~I     I  I I_I I_/ _>               ^^^
^^^                    `---\__/----------------\__/----'                    ^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^
^^^                       P O S T I N G S    Jul 1996                       ^^^
^^^                       ---------------------------                       ^^^
^^^                                                                         ^^^

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 16:44:01 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Elan Powerplant Selection

Hiya All,

>But let's steer ourselves gently back to the engineering agenda at hand;
BHP/$.  Getting 200 hp out of a twink is NOT a trivial matter, even using
the 2.0 litre aluminum BDP block.
>
Err, actually it is .... my 4AGE has only minor mods and is 100hp/litre.
With the mods I'm going to do to my new 4AGE, I'm expecting up around
115hp/litre AND 40 mpg.
And there's also the 20valve 4AGE which has 160hp odd standard!
Another example is the 2 Litre Touring cars in England and Aus that put out
nearly 300hp from 2 litres - 150hp/litre! 

>Don't get me wrong... such engines certainly exist.  But they are serious
race engines, with maybe 20 hour rebuild intervals.
>
With a 100hp/litre road going engine, I'd expect at least 100,000km with
total reliablity. (Of course that's normal driving with the occasional blast
to 8000 rpm)

>The reason that I eventually backed away from this plan was, once again,
BHP/$.  All the parts are readily available, but once you add up the cost of
everything that would be required you are talking about a high dollar
engine.  Well over $10K (US) including the fuel injection.
>
Yeah, the Cossies are damn good engines, but _damn_ they are expensive!

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
       "One day lad, all this will be yours"
               "Wot, the curtains?"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 18:35:26 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Oil filters.

Hiya All, 
         Got some mail today, and I thought it might interest some of you.

>	Well, up to now I've only used the normal Ryco filters.  Last time
>	I changed the oil I put in a Ryco "Premium", supposedly with
>	anti-drainback valve.  I haven't tried Genuine Toyota filters --
>	are these any better?  Bet they cost a heap more .....
>
>	What other brands are out there?  I've only ever seen Ryco brand
>	(& Autobarn's in-house filters, which I haven't tried as yet -- doubt
>	they're any better than Ryco).
>
>	Are you saying it's common for the anti-drainback valves to be
>	faulty?  Doesn't say much for quality control.
>
I haven't had too much trouble with oil filters, but I do know there are
differences with every type. For example, I used to use a Z-9 in the racing
car, but now I use a Z-114. (I think - I'd have to check) The Z-9, a very
common Ford/Holden filter has an oil pressure relief valve in the base, so
if the filter gets too blocked up then it will open up and bypass the filter
paper. Not too much of a bother in road cars, but in a racing car which has
a tremendous oil flow relative to a road engine it might be possible to open
the valve due to the increased backpressure. The Z-114 is physically exactly
the same filter, but has no bypass valve.
As for the anti-drainback valve being faulty, I'd say that a good, tight oil
pump would be a btter option. Gadgets like that aren't subject to any
quality assurance laws - another example being tachometers. Almost
invariably they overread! They don't have to follow any laws regarding
accuracy, so they don't. Take for example the ubiquitous VDO. I have a
10,000rpm VDO electic tacho on my racing car. I had it on the dyno the other
day, and when the car's tacho was showing 8,000rpm the calibrated test tacho
was reading only 7,700rpm.

But back to oil filters - In my 4AGE, I only use the genuine factory oil
filter. It seems to have the least restriction and the best filtering.
Wether all the Toyota filters are the same I couldn't say. As for other
filters, it's just a matter of try and see. Unfortunately, it seems to be a
case of $$$=quality.

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
       "One day lad, all this will be yours"
               "Wot, the curtains?"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 07:11:45 -0500
To: celicag@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Chris W. Morgan),
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: ignitor's going bad

>         Hello List,
>  Anyone ever had a ignitor go bad on them? Replaced one? How much was it
>and how did you determine thats what it was? A reputable wrench told me it
>was a fairly common thing to happen. Anyway mine is delivering interuppted
>spark to the plugs.
>  Just fired up the 20R Sunchaser after 6 months downtime. It sure is nice
>to hear it run again! I'll make a full post later.

I had one go bad, as well as the coil (I'll find out in a few days, when I
can A/B test it). On the Mk II MR2, it appears that the coil/igniter can
get spray from the left/rear tire - it has a plastic gaurd on the top
(dripping?), but nothing on the bottom (spray). On the Mk I, it was high on
the right side, under the right engine 'trim cover' (that small piece that
bolts/screws to the body, to each side of the engine cover/lid). On the Mk
II, its low  on the left (below one of the fuse boxes), and offset towards
the middle. Another thing is that the coil is flat, and not round. The Mk I
was the standard round 'tube' coil, but the Mk II uses a flat coil, with
metal plates on the bottom. The Mk II coil has what looks like metal plate
'wafers', and mine have rusted to the point that they are separating from
the coil.

I suspect the coil is causing my intermittant hesitation, and will know for
sure when the new coil comes in from Lou Fusz. I think that moisture is
getting into the coil, and doesn't go away until the water 'boils' off from
engine heat. Also, the coil has rusted it's way to the bracket, and I'm
just replacing both($12/bracket, $50/coil). I also am replacing the
ignitor, that would be $100/salvage, or $280/new. I'll definitely be going
salvage!

But yes, they can go bad. There are instructions in the Toyota manual on
testing resistance, continuity and ohms at certain leads to find out if
it's bad.

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: 	Mon, 1 Jul 1996 10:05:16 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: Re: ignitor's going bad

>>         Hello List,
>>  Anyone ever had a ignitor go bad on them? Replaced one? How much was it
>>and how did you determine thats what it was? A reputable wrench told me it
>>was a fairly common thing to happen. Anyway mine is delivering interuppted
>>spark to the plugs.
>>  Just fired up the 20R Sunchaser after 6 months downtime. It sure is nice
>>to hear it run again! I'll make a full post later.

I,too had an igniter go bad on my '89. (~$300)  In addition it somehow
fried the distributor. ($600)  This is what my dealer said anyway.  These
problems caused the car to die at random. I put a plastic shield around the
entire coil/igniter.  It is protected from drips and splash.  Eventually it
wouldn't start at all.  No problems since replacement 20,000 mi ago.

My 2%

Kelly Carter _______________
A/V Technician______________
College of Architecture_____
Media Center________________
Texas A&M University________
College Station, TX_________

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To: reyb 
Cc: toyota mods 
From: "john.limcangco" 
Date:  1 Jul 96 15:34:47 
Subject: power steering hose

Don't use regular hose clamps!   I used cheap A/C hoses clamped with screw-down 
hose clamps and they failed.  The hose slipped out of the fittings and sprayed 
P/S fluid all over the engine compartment... (very ugly).    It was scary too!
Some of the fluid ended landing on the exhaust manifold... and very thick smoke 
started billowing for the engine compartment.....  (I swear, I heard people 
yelling "Fire!")

Your best bet is to take the old hose with the fittings and take them to a 
hydraulic shop.  I'm sure they can fabricate a new one.   That's what I did... 
so far, so good.  Check-out hydraulic shops that fabricate hoses for 
"low-rider" cars.

Good Luck

John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18RG

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com (toyota mods)  @ internet
cc:  (bcc: John Limcangco)
From: reyb @ wildcat.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM @ internet
Date: 06/27/96 03:28 PM
Subject: power steering hose
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Anybody ever make their own?  The reason that I ask is
that my parent's '90 V6 Camry recently blew the high
pressure hose coming off of the power steering pump and
the puppy costs $170.  So, with that cost in mind I've 
been thinking of alternatives such as:

o  Remove/cut the metal sleeve that is crimping the hose
   onto the fittings and hopefully be able to buy some
   cheap power steering hose and use standard hose clamps
   to hold them on.  Think those standard hose clamps
   can handle mega psi's?

o  Bring the broken hose to a heavy equipment/hydraulic
   repair shop and see if they can replace the hose.

o  Bite the bullet. :(

Thanks,

-Rey- 
========================================================
Rey Berin                   Phone: (619) 485-3285
NCR Corporation             Fax:   (619) 485-3010
17095 Via Del Campo
San Diego, CA 92127         Rey.Berin@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM
========================================================

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Subject: MarkIV brakes, pads, rotors, etc.
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 96 13:47:23 -0700
From: "John F. Page" 
To: 

Well, I trashed my brakes this weekend on the race track. By the end of 
the second day there was a hell of a shudder when I braked. Although I 
haven't taken it in to the shop yet, I am almost sure that I have a 
warped front rotor or two. I didn't see any cracks when I changed the 
wheeels back to street tires. The ambient temperature on the track was 
110 degrees in the shade! Sound like I may have overcooked things a bit?

Well, this brings up a couple of things. One is pads, two is rotors. 
First pads. I'm convinced that I finally need to upgrade my pads. I'm on 
my third set. First set lasted 28K, second lasted 10K. My current set has 
only been on for 1K and are still in fine shape. For any application 
except fierce and repeated race braking, the stock pads are fine. But I 
now need more meat for track conditions. Has anyone put on any aftermaket 
racing pads for track use on their TT? I use my car mostly for the street 
so I don't want an all out racing pad -- I need a compromise (don't you 
hate that word -- but when your car is used for both street and track you 
better get used to it!)

I called a couple of place about pads and I found two places that have 
them. Porterfield makes them (although I've heard a lot of negative stuff 
about Porterfields in general -- tearing up rotors, poor quality control, 
etc.). Race Central said that they stock Hawks -- black compound 
(400-1100 degrees) -- about $120 per axle. Performance Friction has a 
part number for them, but has yet to actually manufacture them! So, who 
has some info???

Now to move on the rotors. Anyone using any aftermarket rotors except 
Ara? He's using a set of cross drilled factory rotors that he got from 
Stillen for $800. If I'm not mistaken, Ernesto Sgroi said that he can get 
the same ones for about $600. But, the thing is I keep hearing bad things 
about cross drilled rotors - that they crack from the holes when they get 
stressed sufficiently. What about it gang?

I'm going to have my brakes in pieces in a day or two and I'm looking for 
help from you all!

BTW, yes, I am using high temp brake fluid and I have stainless steel 
braided brake lines.

John Page - 94 TT
Information provided is given free of charge in good faith without 
prejudice.

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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 16:40:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: mazda powered loti
To: Toyota Mods 

> >>> Barry Leitch (who built my kit) is just finishing a seven for a
japanese
> >>> client running a triple rotor intercooled Mazda 20B turbo (400 horse =
700
> >>> horse per ton). Another option perhaps?
> >>
> >>Ouch
> >
> >Good heavens (although not Toyota related) this car ought to be a real
> >eyeball flattener. Tell me more, if you can...
> >
> >Later,
> >
> >Bruce...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net
>
> Wouldn't little things like *traction* need to be addressed here? :)

Parachutes may be another good idea! : )

Ade

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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 20:02:41 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Distributor Woes

Hi folks,

I have slight dilemma maybe you can help me solve:  My MK1 had an oil leak at
the distributor, so I pulled the distributor out to find a completely dried
out o-ring seal between the head and the distributor... GREAT!  I replaced
the seal with a shiny new one and slapped it all back together.  I replaced
the cap and rotor at the same time, and figured the problem was solved.
  NOPE!

The next day I got some more of the raw oil burn-off (from dripping on the
exhaust manifold -- really stinks) and I thought it might be residual from
the prior probem, but it persisted so I got another o-ring just to be safe
and pulled it again tonight.  This time (and last time too, but it didn't
register) I found oil INSIDE the distributor!  Now, call me crazy, but I
don't think that should be there, and oil doesn't flow uphill through the
vents, so oil appears to be going through the seal that houses the rotor
shaft into the distributor and out the lower air vents, onto the heat shield
then onto the manifold...  :(

Has anyone else had this problem?  Am I incorrect in my assumptions?  I
intend to check my factory manual for details but I just had to ask you guys
for confirmation of my theories.  Any help is appreciated!

PS:  Anyone have a good MK1 distributor for sale?  :)  :(

Dave A.
daucott@aol.com

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:21:00 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Distributor Woes......MK1 oil filter...move it?

good show, Bruce.
Luckily, I haven't had any of the oil probs you described, but I'm sure my
day is coming.

*****SEGWAY*****.........

Does anyone know of a oil filter extender/relocator for the MK1's???
I'm tired of burning my arm on the manifold every 3,000 miles trying to reach
that *&^$%$# thing.

Tanx.

Until Next..........................Robert
                                          '85 MK1  179,500..........

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:21:03 -0400
To: AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: mazda powered loti

...Gonna need more than airbags.....

Robert.

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:21:55 -0400
To: shafted@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: 5th and gone........

Shafted,
   I lost a bolt out of the tranny and it slowly lost oil.
The fifth gear is "external" so it gets the least lube in such a situation.
The "diamond" cut on the gear had sheared off on one side (while I was
driving X-country), so the sleave would no longer lock in place.
On deceleration, it would stay fine.  But, as soon as I touched the gas
**pop**.......out it came.  (And I had to drive a long way in 4th)   :(

By 're-notching' the gear, it allowed the sleave something to grab onto to
hold it into gear.   Works fine.  90,000 miles proven.
(Keep in mind, this is my daily driver.  I do not race or drag my baby.)

This whole project was a crap-shoot.
I really had know idea it would work, but I had nothing to lose.
If it didn't work, I would have had to replace the gear anyway.
Who knew?
I used a LOT of carb cleaner as I went along to keep the grindings out of the
rest of the tranny.
I filled it with t-fluid, drove to work and back and then changed it again to
be sure.
(20,000 miles back I dropped an oil additive in it ---like "DuraLube"--- just
to maybe buy myself some more miles before I have to do a total rebuild.

Any questions?

Until Next.........................Robert
                                           '85 MK1 179,500.........

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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:17:21 +1200
From: Richard Doig 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: More Celica GT4 questions.

Thanks for all your answers about my Celica GT4 All-trac purchase.

I had the car tested today and it seemed pretty good.  The main 
problem is play in the turbo bearings,  in turn allowing oil to leak 
into the compressor inlet through the seals.  What does this indicate 
about the engines condition (75000kms) and how serious is this?

Compressions were 175,180,182 and 185psi.  Are these okay?

The dealer wants to fix it themselves but I'm trying to negotiate a 
discount so I can have it done myself.  If I was having it rebuilt 
what else could be done for performance?  The exhaust is still 
standard but after new tyres that would be the first part to fall off 
(along with the cat:-).  The turbo is a Totota CT26 so what changes 
could be made and to what cost?  If I'm going to up the boost I may 
as well takes advantage of compressor mods as well.

I gave them an offer for cash without the turbo being repaired 
 18% under the sticker price which they turned down.  Worth a try!

Please reply direct again thanks as I don't read the list (too many 
messages at work!).

Richard
doigr@fphcare.mhs.compuserve.com
___________________________________________________

Richard Doig
doigr@fphcare.mhs.compuserve.com
Toyota Celica XX 2000GT Twin Cam 24

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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 00:20:29 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Distributor Woes

Bruce writes:

<< and all mine ended up with some small amounts of oil in the dissy, isnt
this
 normal?

I don't know, that's why I asked...

>> The 10.3:1 engines I have seen dont leak. If thats all the problems
 you have with oil your doing well. How about the leaks you will get in the
cam
 wheel seals, and the hardening of the cam cover seals. On some 4AG's the CAM
 covers were so tight I had to use a chisel to remove them and put new ones
 in to stop the leaks.

Cam cover gaskets were replaced at the rebuild and are good, and I replaced a
dried out leaky oil filter housing o-ring already, so I know they will
leak...  they are also fixable.

>> For the dissy I have solved the problem, I built headers
 that dont go near the dissy so the oil falls on the floor, its such a small
 leak I dont worry about it.(Yes now I have found a real use for my headers)

I don't know about you, but I don't like a puddle of oil under my car every
time I stop, and in addition the stench that stuff makes as it burns off the
exhaust manifold is quite nausiating.  This is not a "drop a day" but more
like a drop
a minute problem.  When I stop and park I get billowing smoke from the oil
burn off AND a 50mm circle of oil on the driveway.  I do not think this is
normal.

>>Have you checked the PCV system yet? Have you put a synth oil in the car
 and had it disappear but a mineral based one doesnt? Have you seen the oil
 surge problems in the RWD versions coming out of hard corners that the FWD
 versions dont do? We could start a whole new X file on early 4AG oil
 leaks, thank heavens none of them really matter just fill it up every month.

Ummm... right.  I wonder what Toyota's warranty is on the 4AGE if this is
"normal."  Interesting that my other car 
with 109K miles on an original motor exhibits none of these problems.  I
attribute it to the leaker being in Florida sun for most of its life.  Now,
if anyone knows of a way to fix this, please let me know.

Dave A.
daucott@aol.com

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Notchy at startup.
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:17:37 -0400 (EDT)

Guys and Gals,
	I've noticed lately that everytime I start up Mister 2, the first
shift into any gear is notchy with very noticeable resistance.  After that
first shift, it shifts fine.
	Should I be concerned about this?  What's really happening here, and
what can I do about it?

					Thanks :)

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Prep for back on the road.
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:29:13 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu

Hi all,
	I'll be putting my car back on the road soon and I wanted to know
what should be done maintenance-wise to make sure the car runs properly
after being off the road for a year.  The car has been started at least once
a week for the past year, so it's not a complete restarting.  The engine is
running very well.  Here's what I've done so far in prep:

Changed oil
Changed Manual transmission fluid
Changed drivebelt and a/c belt

Here's what I plan to do soon:

Resurface brake rotors and put on new pads
Bleed brake system
Change spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.
Cooling system flush and refill.

	If anyone can think of anything else I should do to make sure the
car runs properly after being off the road for a year, please do tell.  I
can really use some advice.  After spending so much of my own time and money
fixing the front end bodywork, I want to make sure I get the whole car
running great.

					Thanks guys,

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Brake Rotors,How not to glaze.
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:43:32 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu

One more Guys and Gals,
	I usually baby my brakes, but recently I decided to use them more
powerfully, i.e., stopping more powerfully, and suddenly my front rotors
have glazed up (I can see myself in them), necessitating a resurfacing of
the rotors and a new set of pads.
	How can I prevent this from happening again after the brake job?
Can I stop powerfully like that without this happening again?  Or will it
just happen again with the stock rotors?

					Thanks :)

					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: TAP Recycling, Fenders '85 MR2
To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 01:53:01 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Aly,
> Where are you and where have you looked for those fenders.
> Did you try "Foster Auto" in Portland, OR?
> 
> Until Next...............................Robert
>                                                '85 MK1  180,000.......
> 

Robert,
	I'm in lower NY, about an hour north of the city.
	I've called about every junkyard in the tri-state area I could find.
	I've called TAP.
	Nobody seems to have a decent set of fenders (no rust or dents) for
        an '85 MR2.
	Do you have the number for Foster Auto?

	I'd really appreciate any help.

					Thanks,
					Aly
					'85 MR2
					abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: Richard Leong 
Subject: Re: Air filters
To: richard@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:55:13 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

I would definitely get an air-filter for the car.  When I had mine put on 
at first, I didn't really think much of the improvement.  Then I switched 
back to the original air-box and noticed a huge decrease in the throttle 
response.  My point being, you will notice an improvement at higher revs, 
about 4000rpms or greater.  I also happen to own the same car as yours, 
mines an '86 Celica GTS.  Anyways, if you do get one, you will have to 
get a universal fit filter as nobody makes an air-filter for this car 
specifically. I just got a mini-sized POwerFlow filter in my car, but it 
does the job.  The only thing I could find performance wise for this car 
is just the air-filter and a muffler.  Nobody seems to make anything for 
this car specifically.  And both my air-filter and muffler are customized 
too.  However, I've modified the suspension to some degree.  I guess what 
this car may lack in performance it sure makes it up in handling!

Richard
'86 Celica GTS

> A friend of mine suggested popping in a powerfilter of some sort, and 
> since I'm going to be replacing my air filter now anyway, I thought 
> it not a bad idea.  However, she wasn't sure if it would give any 
> appreciable difference in power to what I've got now.
> 
> Any of you guys out there with a similar car done a similar thing?
> If so, am I likely to get more power from my engine by putting in a 
> high performance filter?  Any comments or suggestions would be 
> greatfully appreciated!
> 
> Cheers
> 
>    ...Richard Parry
> 
> PS: Of course, any non engine critical mods people can suggest will 
> be taken on board willingly.  I'm blowed if I know the first thing 
> about all the mods for a Sleeka - fill me with wisdom :)
> 
> --
>  Richard Parry.
>  Tonic for the thinking man.              richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz
> 

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From: Richard Leong 
Subject: Re: me/mine/mods
To: Ash@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Ash Saini)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:08:47 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

What kind of springs are these anyways?  Were they custom made?  I've 
been searching everywhere for springs that would lower this car more than 
1 inch.  I was told H&R had springs that lowered 1.25inches but they no 
longer make them.  I finally gave up and got Eibach's.  They don't slam 
the car to the ground, but I'm not totally disatisfied either. They do 
handle very well.  I didn't know Gabriel made struts for this car 
either.  ANyways, I got Koni's with the springs. They're not bad.

> 
> * Suspension: 1.5" lowered with variable rate coils, Gabriel struts, beefier sway bars.
> 
I was thinking of replacing the stock intact duct to a larger diameter 
size.  Just curious, where did you feed the duct from? I was thinking of 
removing one of the lights below the retracting ones to feed an intake 
duct to the air-filter.

> * Engine: nothing to engine itself. 3" duct to std air box with foam filter. advenced 
> timing to 20degress(use 95octone fuel), 8.8mm plug leads with the stock Nippondenso 
> platimum tipped plugs, connected the cold-start injector on the intake manifold to 
> "squirt" extra fuel on full throttle activated by a micro-switch, 2.25" exhaust with one 
> Walker muffler with stock exhaust mainfold, use Mobil One lubricants.
> 

This is a new one on me.  Where did you feed the brake ducts from? 

> *Body: brake cooling ducts to the front ventilated disks (on track only), use Bendix 
> Metal King brake pads (semi-metallic compound), tinted windows.

If you have any other mods, or know of any interesting ideas, I would 
love to hear them.

Richard
'86 Celica GTS

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From: Richard Leong 
Subject: Warped brakes
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:18:41 -0700 (PDT)

Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are 
warped.  I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder 
as I go faster.  I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. 
How it happened is still a puzzle to me.  It seemed to happened right 
after I had the springs and shocks installed by someone.  I'm not sure if 
this is just by coincidence.  I'm pretty sure they come from the front 
brakes.  My question is, how bad does this do to the car.  I could care 
less about the rotors, I'm thinking of replacing or resurfacing them 
anyways.  What about the engine? Does this warping give unnecessary 
strain to the engine?  I knew the brakes were warped before.  Every time 
I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan 
from the wheels like the rotors were warped.  I just don't know why the 
sound comes up when I drive normally.  Not to mention the noise is quite 
annoying.  Any help is appreciated.

Richard
'86 Celica GTS

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Date: 2 Jul 1996 00:19:56 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Twinks, Cossies, and 4AGs
To: "Bill Sherwood" ,

 Reply to:     Twinks, Cossies, and 4AGs

Good people of Toyota Mods, I don't want to wear out my welcome.  If you're getting tired of our Lotus related posts, let me know... or if you find them interesting let me know too.

By the way, there IS some Toyota content in this message... 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bill, for the benefit of the folks on Toyota Mods, maybe we should explain some terminology:

>  Getting 200 hp out of a twink is NOT a trivial matter

"Twink" is the Lotus twin cam.  Used in Elans, Lotus Cortinas, early Escort rally cars, late Europas, and assorted 30 year old formula 2 and formula B cars.

>>Yeah, the Cossies are damn good engines, but _damn_ they are expensive!

The particular Cosworth engine we are talking about is the BD (belt drive) family.  The BDD is the old (pre-4AG) formula Atlantic engine.  The BD is an oversquare 16-valve engine with a narrow included valve angle, based on the "Kent" family block, as is the twink.  The chamber design is somewhat similar to the early DFV.

> even using the 2.0 litre aluminum BDP block.

The BDP block is the biggest displacement "Kent" family block.  It was designed by Cosworth for midget racing and other applications.   Though intended to live under the BD head, it can be adapted to a Lotus twin cam head.  With the proper crank, you can stretch it to about 2.1 litres.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

> Getting 200 hp out of a twink is NOT a trivial matter, even using
> the 2.0 litre aluminum BDP block.

>>Err, actually it is .... my 4AGE has only minor mods and is 100hp/litre.
>>And there's also the 20valve 4AGE which has 160hp odd standard!
>>Another example is the 2 Litre Touring cars in England and Aus that put out
>>nearly 300hp from 2 litres - 150hp/litre! 

Yeah, aren't the modern multivalve heads bichin!!  Production 4 and 5 valve engines are now developing specific output that was in the exclusive territory of race engines 30 years ago.

But the Lotus twin cam is, after all, a two valve engine... and despite its reputation for breathing, (a reputation earned a long, long time ago!) the twink head has nowhere near the ultimate CFM capability of a 4AG head.  100hp/litre is no problem for a 1300 or 1600 twink.  But 100hp/litre is a bit of a challenge for 2 litre twink, because even using the largest valves that can fit in the chamber, it will be getting short of breath. 

Also building a 2 litre twink is expensive.  A friend of mine did it recently.  He ended up using Co$worth parts in the bottom end, although other configurations are possible.  And the block itself is a high dollar item.

>>With the mods I'm going to do to my new 4AGE, I'm expecting up around
>>115hp/litre AND 40 mpg.

I doubt you're just saying that as an offhanded comment!  I would really like to hear more about the mods you are planning, and I bet Toyota Mods would too.
erik.berg@trw.com

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Date: 2 Jul 1996 00:59:42 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: Prep for back on the roa
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" ,

 Reply to:     RE>Prep for back on the road.

If you're going to go to the bother of turning the brake rotors, you might want to have a look at the piston seals in the calipers, while the calipers are loose and easy to inspect.

Ocasionally the pistons will get corroded and can cause the brakes to stick on, if the seals are dead.  Usually this would only happen if a car has been sitting out in a wet climate for a long time.
erik.berg@trw.com

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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 18:41:42 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: K series oil pumps.

Hiya all,
         Some more guff on Corolla 'K' engine oil pumps, for what it's
worth. It's a response to some questions asked by a local who has a 5K
that's seen better days. 

>How hard is it to reco an oil pump?
>
The hardest part is getting it out of the engine! Err, that's assuming that
you leave the engine in the car. I suppose you could leave everything all
connected up except the engine mounts and just lift the engine up enough to
remove the sump. Maybe?
Once you have the pump out, it's not too bad. If you have a copy of the
specifications the the pump has to meet, then you can check the clearances
to see where you stand. If there's too much lateral clearance then there's
not much you can do other than get another pump, but if there's excess
clearance between the rotors & the cover plate then you can VERY carefully
oilstone down the pump body to close up the gap. That's about all you do
with that side of things, but you can also help the oilflow a lot by
'smoothing' the oil passages of the pump - they're pretty rough on a K pump,
so out with the grinder and give them a nice rounded set of corners. The
other thing I used to do to the K pumps was put a 1/16" washer under the
pressure relief spring to up the pressure for racing. Not really needed for
road use, but it doesn't hurt at all.
Another thing we used to do to help the gears on the cam drive last longer
was to drill out the hole in the neck of the oil pump that squirted oil onto
the gear on the cam that drives the distributor and oil pump. We made the
hole 1/16".
The last thing was to machine three grooves on the neck of the pump to make
it so we could fit three 'O' rings to help seal the oil pressure into the
pump and not let it flow out around the neck. This one's a little tricky
without a lathe and the O-rings need changing every time the pump comes out,
so it's probably a bit of an overkill for road use. It worked quite well
though - I always had great oil pressure at all revs with all the mods done
to the oil system. There's two holes in the neck - one for the oil flow out
to the filter and one back from the filter. Both have 60+ psi oil, so if the
fit between the neck and the block is a bit sloppy, then you'll be losing
oil pressure out the top of the pump where it fits into the bottom of the
distributor. The O-rings stop that by blocking off the top & bottom of the
neck, and the middle O-ring in between the two oil holes stops any bypass of
oil due to filter pressure differential.

Some of these things can be used in other oil pumps, eg, almost every oil
pump I've seen has rough edges on the inlet & outlet of the pump body, so
you can help things a bit by cleaning them up as described.

Em tassal, Wantok.

Bill S.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
       "One day lad, all this will be yours"
               "Wot, the curtains?"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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From: NLing@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 06:10:02 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 1992 - 1995

I would like to know about MR2,s. Please send me any information about MR2,s.
Thanks.
Ling.

N.Ling
4614 S.E Long St,
Portland OR.97207 USA

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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:11:42 -0400
From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account))
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Distributor Woes

How many miles are on this engine?  Sometimes blow-by
will start coming out weird places like the distributor
if the PCV is clogged or overwhelmed.

Jon Hacker
90 Supra turbo

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Date: 	Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:44:06 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: Re: ignitor's going bad

>>I,too had an igniter go bad on my '89. (~$300)  In addition it somehow
>>fried the distributor. ($600)  This is what my dealer said anyway.  These
>>problems caused the car to die at random. I put a plastic shield around the
>>entire coil/igniter.  It is protected from drips and splash.  Eventually it
>>wouldn't start at all.  No problems since replacement 20,000 mi ago.
>
>That distributor cost seems way high. The last time I replaced my
>'distributor body' (the part that the distributor cap screws into), it was
>only abou;$130 +/-.
>
>Steve B.
>
Clarification:  That price included labor. I had no place to work on the
car at the time.  The actual dealer price was around $175-200.  Still high
compared to dealer's in other cities.  The dealer  is no longer in
business, he's now in court.  Charges include price fixing, fraud,
tampering with odometers, etc.  I got ripped a little, but live and learn.

Kelly Carter
'89 MR2

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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 11:17:02 -0500
From: Philip Cutajar 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     :	Phil Cutajar
Location :      Madison, NJ (temporary)
Model    :      1993 MR2 Turbo, T-Top, ABS, AC
Engine   :      ? I don't know yet.
Mods     :      Stock (I think)
email    :	cutajarp@ix.netcom.com

I don't own a Toyota as yet, but I have subscribed because I am 
seriously searching for a 1993 MR2 Turbo to buy. I think I have found 
one through the MR2 classifieds and I am planning on making an offer 
soon. Unfortunately, the car is 1,200 miles away in Dallas.

If anyone can offer any helpful advice on what to watch out for on these 
cars I would be appreciative. I am fanatical about them already, if 
though I don't yet own one. The concept of mid-engine, RWD, in a tidy 
and sleek package like the MR2 is irresitable.

Regards, Phil (hopeful future MR2 owner).

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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 11:23:23 -0500
From: Philip Cutajar 
To: toyota-mods 
Subject: What should I know about '93 MR2 Turbo

Greetings,
I'm looking to buy a 1993 MR2 turbo, around 25K miles, T-Top.
I would appreciate any feedback on what to watch out for on these
cars. Thanks in advance.
Regards, Phil.

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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 10:00:00 PDT
From: ErickX Wipprecht 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

     Name: Erick Wipprecht
     Location: Phoenix, Arizona
     Model: 1988 MR2
     Engine: 4A-GZE
     Mods: None (as yet)
     email: erickx_wipprecht@ccm.ch.intel.com

        After many years of lusting after them, I finally went down and 
     picked up a firstgen MR2 two weeks ago. 36 hours after I picked it up, 
     Mister 2 decided that fifth and reverse aren't neccessary after all. 
     In any case, I'll have it back by tomorrow and that's when the fun 
     will start. My good friend and self-proclaimed MR2 guru Ted and I plan 
     to give the car even more attitude than it already has. First to go is 
     going to be the exhaust. After that, who knows. BTW, glad to be here!

     Erick

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 12:01:05 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Distributor Woes

To the list,
I have owned three 4AG's, in a MK1 MR2, AE 86 and AE 82 and worked on
many times that number for friends. The ALL leaked at the dissy onto the
heat shield at some point in their lives the MR2 did it form 10,000Kms,
the AE 86 fron 25,000KMs and the AE82 from NEW! All the 9.4:1 motors did it
and all mine ended up with some small amounts of oil in the dissy, isnt this
normal? The 10.3:1 engines I have seen dont leak. If thats all the problems
you have with oil your doing well. How about the leaks you will get in the cam
wheel seals, and the hardening of the cam cover seals. On some 4AG's the CAM
covers were so tight I had to use a chisel to remove them and put new ones
in to stop the leaks. For the dissy I have solved the problem, I built headers
that dont go near the dissy so the oil falls on the floor, its such a small
leak I dont worry about it.(Yes now I have found a real use for my headers)
Have you checked the PCV system yet? Have you put a synth oil in the car
and had it disappear but a mineral based one doesnt? Have you seen the oil
surge problems in the RWD versions coming out of hard corners that the FWD
versions dont do? We could start a whole new X file on early 4AG oil
leaks, thank heavens none of them really matter just fill it up every month.
Bruce

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From: ml36@cornell.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 14:04:31 -0400 (EDT)
To: Richard Leong 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Warped brakes

On Mon, 1 Jul 1996, Richard Leong wrote:

> Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are 
> warped.  I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder 
> as I go faster.  I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. 

My experience with warped brake rotors are that they don't show any 
indication of being a problem when you're just driving without braking.
The pads get pushed back so they just brush against the highest point of 
the rotor surface and doesn't really make a noise you can hear.
Sometimes you can hear it at very low speeds when wind and tire noise are 
minimal.  When you press the brakes with light to moderate pressure, 
warped rotors will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal and, if the warping
is bad, a shimmy in the steering wheel.  Very hard brake pressure 
usually doesn't result in pedal pulsations.

> I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan 
> from the wheels like the rotors were warped.  I just don't know why the 
> sound comes up when I drive normally.  Not to mention the noise is quite 

Again, not behavior I'd expect from warped rotors.  My opinion is that 
you're problem is something else.  Now maybe the wisdom on this list can 
help you pinpoint it. :)

-Mike Leary
87 Corolla GTS

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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 11:12:53 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: skchang@ucdavis.edu (Shung-Kung Chang)
Subject: Muffler

Hi:
        Have you tried any Remus muffler? Is it good? I'm thinking to
replace my stock muffler with Remus but I would like to have some inputs
before I spend $400 for a muffler on 1MZ-FE engine.

Sincerely

Shung-Kung Chang

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:36:53 +1200 (NZST)
To: Daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Liam Venter 
Subject: Re: Distributor Woes

At 12:20 AM 2/07/96 -0400, Daucott@aol.com wrote:
>Bruce writes:
>
><< and all mine ended up with some small amounts of oil in the dissy, isnt
>this
> normal?
>

>
>Ummm... right.  I wonder what Toyota's warranty is on the 4AGE if this is
>"normal."  Interesting that my other car 
>with 109K miles on an original motor exhibits none of these problems.  I
>attribute it to the leaker being in Florida sun for most of its life.  Now,
>if anyone knows of a way to fix this, please let me know.
>
>Dave A.
>daucott@aol.com
>

I have a 1983 4age that doesn't leak anywhere (not a drop). I repleaced the
dizzy "o" ring with a Toyota replacement and resealed the sump when I firsts
bought it. Toyotas gasket goo for the sump costs over NZ$60.00! I just used
a hi-temp silicon sealent from the local speed shop cost abvout $5.00

Yes the cam seals have hardened up but don't leak yet and I still have the
original cam cover seals. I do have a leak form the rear of the gearbox
drive shaft seal but will replace the seal next time I have the drive shaft out.

I use Mobile 1 synthetic oil and very rarely top up the oil. This engine is
in a much abused race car.

regards 

Liam

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:36:57 +1200 (NZST)
To: aly abulkheir ,
From: Liam Venter 
Subject: Re: Brake Rotors,How not to glaze.
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu

At 01:43 AM 2/07/96 -0400, aly abulkheir wrote:
>One more Guys and Gals,
>	I usually baby my brakes, but recently I decided to use them more
>powerfully, i.e., stopping more powerfully, and suddenly my front rotors
>have glazed up (I can see myself in them), necessitating a resurfacing of
>the rotors and a new set of pads.
>	How can I prevent this from happening again after the brake job?
>Can I stop powerfully like that without this happening again?  Or will it
>just happen again with the stock rotors?
>
>					Thanks :)
>
>					Aly
>					'85 MR2
>				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

I you are using your brakes hard you may need to upgrade your pads. Some
suggestions. I have done a lot of experimenting on brakes trying to get road
systems to work well on the track.

Mintex 1144 moderately heavy street use. Work well at low temperatures
Mintex 1155 very heavy street use. Work welll at moderately hifgh temp
Mintex 1166 for weekend racing. Worek well at high temperature but not good
when cold.
DS-11 Work well at high temp but not low
Performance Friction, Carbon metallics. Work well very very hot, moderate
and cold temperatures. Very high coeffiecint of friction. and very good feel. 

Most casual users will not notice the difference between cold and hot
stopping power of race pads on the street. The difference is night and day
on the race track but not very noticeable on the road.

Cold air ducting usining aluminium tubing etc, can make a sensational
difference to braking. However the last time I used tried this I did it with
some cast iron production car discs that I had cross drilled. The discs got
fine cracks all around the holes. I think this was due to thermal stress. I
would have been best not to have drilled these.

Race pads may tend to be harder on the wear of the discs. However as they
dissipate heat better they stop discs warping under extreme conditions. I
have always used a higher grade of pad than standard on my road cars and
have yet to wear out a disk.

Be aware that you need to match friction at front and back this can make
many meters of stopping difference and make the car stable under braking. If
you are really keen you may want to experiment with a brake bias valve such
as the ones Wilwood make.

Regards

Liam
>

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:37:12 +1200 (NZST)
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Liam Venter 
Subject: 4age Head flow figures

I thought the following head flow figures may be of interest to some members
of the group. These are from a friends engine that he is building for circut
racing.

If any one has any comments or suggestions we would be interested. We still
have not decided on the Cams to go with this head. He wants power from 4000
rpm to 8000rpm. Some one with a fancy dyno program that takes into account
head flow figures may have some fun with the information below.

These figures are on a 4age small inlet port redtop engine without TVIS.

The combustion chamber has had the Joggles removed as per the TRD
specifications for the group A race and rally engine. The exhaust port has
been cleaned up just behind the valve seat. The valves have been given a
three angle cut. The valve guides have been cut shorter so they do not
intrude so far into the ports but they have not been shaped. No other work
has been performed.

Had flow figures. I0 inches of water.

In				ex
Lift		CFM		Lift		CFM
0.060"		31.5		0.050		17.0
0.120"		65.0		0.100		39.7
0.180		94.4		0.150		62.6
0.240		108.4		0.200		75.9
0.300		111.1		0.250		82.0
0.360		112.5		0.300		84.6

Other engine modifications
Lightened flywheel 9lb
Bore and Stroke: Bore = 81mm Stroke = 77mm

Pistons standard 10.3:1 pistons with thin head gasget.

Exhaust valves standard
Exhaust port smallest diameter 21 mm
85mm exhaust face to valve face
Exhaust Primary length 775 mm

Inlet valves standard
Inside diameter of primaries 30.5 mm
Inlet port smallest diameter 25.5 mm
85mm inlet face to valve face
inlet manifold 52 mm face to face
carb/inlet manifold 10 mm
carburettor length 118 mm
current inlet trumpet length 42 mm

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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 17:26:30 PST
From: "Paddy McManus" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

     Name     :Paddy McManus
     Location :London UK (though I was a member before when I was in Japan)
     Model    :1995 Supra TTurbo Aerotop 
     Engine   :2JZ-GTE 2997 
     Mods     :speed limiter removed (thus able to burn around Germany at 
     280kph/168mph)
     email    :pmcmanus@internet.spco.com

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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 21:26:59 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Distributor Woes

In a message dated 96-07-02 09:18:33 EDT, you write:

<< How many miles are on this engine?  Sometimes blow-by
 will start coming out weird places like the distributor
 if the PCV is clogged or overwhelmed. >>

Hey!  I checked the PCV as you and Bruce mentioned could be the cause and the
TVIS side fitting for the hose between the cam cover and TVIS was completely
plugged with sludge.  It wasn't a thick barrier, but enough that would stop
gasses from going by I'm sure.  This could explain why I got the sudden oil
leaks when I didn't have any before... it may have been 90% clogged and then
finally totally clogged and thus forcing oil leaks.  Hmmm...

I'll be throwing the distributor back in this weekend after a short vacation,
and then cleaning out the PCV system with a good cleaner.  I don't see any
recommendations in the Green book, so I figure a good carb/injection cleaner
like Gumout will work, blasting it into the TVIS side while the engine is
running.  Suggestions?  I plan on doing it while the engine is running so I
don't foul the plugs, or at least have less of a chance of fouling them.

Do you think this could have caused my rough idle also?  New cap/rotor/wires
didn't solve that one (all were bad so no money wasted).  Hopefully this will
solve the leaky distributor problem anyway, I'll let you know.

Dave Aucott
daucott@aol.com 

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From: Richard Parry 
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date:          Wed, 3 Jul 1996 22:15:26 +1200
Subject:       Catalytic Convertors

I suspect that my Japanese imported Celica GTR 86 has at least one of 
these puppies in it somewhere, as well as some sort of limitation 
device to keep the speed below 180kmh.  While I'm going to replace my 
air filter with something a little more horsey soon, I've heard that 
catalytic convertors (while friendly to our environment) hurt 
performance of the vehicle.

Question: is it possible to remove the catalytic convertor?  Should 
I?  Will it give increased performance, and/or fuel consumption?  Am 
I asking to be put in the hurt locker by any local authorities who 
govern emissions?  :)

If I remove a speed limiter (if any), is it likely to be integral to 
the car (like a special gear box) or something simpler?  Should I 
take it off?  :)

Argh, I hate not knowing about these things.  Time to get a mechanics 
course under my belt.  Where's that polytechnic enrolment form 
gone...

Thanks all

Richard Parry

--
 Richard Parry.
 Tonic for the thinking man.              richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz

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From: gettlerj@hanscom.af.mil
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 8:50:34 EDT
To: 
Subject: Speed Limiter

HI!!!... :-)

Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA??  If so, 
could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but I 
was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)??  Thanks.

Jim Gettler
gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:38:00 -0400
From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account))
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Warped brakes

> I still have a problem with my brakes, possibly warped again, within 12 months 
> (Toyota part as well!). I am now starting to get a scraping sound as I go 
> around a right hand bend only. Brakes still judder under high speed braking 
> 70mph or higher. As you say the noises coming from the brakes is quite anoying 
> not to mention a bit concerning.
> Any help on the "ch..ch..ch..ch" noise.
> thanks

The scraping is probably just the disk hitting the metal splash
shield.  As you go around a corner the wheel and disk flex a little and
if the shield is too close it will scrape.  I had this problem.  To fix
it, just bend the splash shield a little farther from the disk, its a
15 second job with the wheel off.

Jon
90 Supra Turbo

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: Warped brakes
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 96 09:49:48 PDT

Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are 
warped.  I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder 
as I go faster.  I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. 
How it happened is still a puzzle to me.  It seemed to happened right 
after I had the springs and shocks installed by someone.  I'm not sure if 
this is just by coincidence.  I'm pretty sure they come from the front 
brakes.  My question is, how bad does this do to the car.  I could care 
less about the rotors, I'm thinking of replacing or resurfacing them 
anyways.  What about the engine? Does this warping give unnecessary 
strain to the engine?  I knew the brakes were warped before.  Every time 
I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan 
from the wheels like the rotors were warped.  I just don't know why the 
sound comes up when I drive normally.  Not to mention the noise is quite 
annoying.  Any help is appreciated.

Richard
'86 Celica GTS

===============================================================================

I still have a problem with my brakes, possibly warped again, within 12 months 
(Toyota part as well!). I am now starting to get a scraping sound as I go 
around a right hand bend only. Brakes still judder under high speed braking 
70mph or higher. As you say the noises coming from the brakes is quite anoying 
not to mention a bit concerning.
Any help on the "ch..ch..ch..ch" noise.
thanks

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	105000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: 	Wed, 3 Jul 1996 12:11:34 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: warped brakes

In the MR2 FAQ it mentions that warpage can occur when the wheel lugs are
not torqued to specs (76 ft/lbs).  85-86 were more prone to warping than
later models.  My '88 Novarolla and '89 MkI both warped after a tire-ape
didn't follow instructions when torqueing my wheels.
I believe there was a discussion a while back about aftermarket rotors that
might cure this problem.  They are definitley on my "to do" list this
summer.

Kelly Carter
'89 MR2

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From: "Dysart, Glenn B." 
To: Toyota Mods 
Subject: RE: Speed Limiter
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 96 12:18:00 PDT

Don't think it has one.  I think the Supra turbo is the only Toyota with 
one.

Glenn Dysart
dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil

93 MR2 turbo
87 Corolla
 ----------
>Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA??  If 
so,
>could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but 
I
>was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)??  Thanks.

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 13:42:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: ILV83779 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: warped brakes

> In the MR2 FAQ it mentions that warpage can occur when the wheel lugs are
> not torqued to specs (76 ft/lbs).  85-86 were more prone to warping than
> later models.  My '88 Novarolla and '89 MkI both warped after a tire-ape

It was also mentioned a while back that brake warpage can occur when the 
brakes are kept on during our frequent intersection stops. Since keeping 
the brakes on the rotor traps heat, it will effect it. It is recommended 
that when possible, put the car in neutral and let off the brakes during 
traffic driving.
I guess this isn't a problem for X-drilled rotors.

KEndrick
93T MR2

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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 19:07:43 -0400
From: Mark Sink 
To: "Lucas, Mike" 
Cc: "'toyota-mods'" 
Subject: Re: American Gothic

>Save American Gothic!

Did they ever do a show on modifying Toyota's?

If so, I just might have to show my support.  Ha Ha.

Otherwise.... 

mark

-- 
mail: mailto:msink@imonics.com
home: http://www.webbuild.com/~toy4two/
work: http://www.imonics.com/

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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 16:46:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Lucas, Mike" 
Subject: American Gothic
To: "'toyota-mods'" 

Save American Gothic!

For anyone who ever liked the show "American Gothic" there is an e-mail 
petition to keep it on the air, but the deadline is today (July 3) (although 
it couldn't hurt to send it even if you're late). You just have to send an 
e-mail message to  with your name and e-mail 
address in the body, and something like "AG petition" as the subject.

Hey, even if you never watched this show you should still send the mail so 
that you can watch it later! Take it from someone who loves X-Files, Star 
Wars, Indepedence Day, and Japanese sports cars.

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 17:59:28 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Richard Ngun 

Name     :      Richard Ngun
Location :	Vancouver, BC, Canada
Model    :	1990 Celica GTS
Engine   :	5S-FE
Mods     :	K&N filter
email    :      rngun@intergate.bc.ca
                        oOOOo 
                       | O o |  "Mistakes? Impossible!  I
                        \ ' /    have an error correcting
                        /   \    modem!"
                     oOO     OOo
                    V A N C O U V E R  C A N U C K S ' 9 6

                        .-=[ rngun@intergate.bc.ca ]=-.

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 20:03:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kerry Haunt 
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

>    So, does anyone have any experience or thoughts on aftermarket, 
> external wastegates?  I think I'm going to have to get one to solve this 
> problem.  The other alternative is to get an F-CON and FCD, which will 
> not prevent the boost from spiking but it will keep the fuel cut from 
> happening.  I just worry that the higher boost I run the higher it's 
> going to spike, and when I run 20 PSI of boost I don't want to spike up 
> to 30.
> 
>    Also, I've 90% decided to go ahead and do the injector upgrade, even 
> though it puts me farther in debt... at this point, I'm pretty much just 
> treating my car repairs/enhancements as getting behind another car loan.
> I plan to keep this car forever anyway... :)  Given that I'm going 
> farther into debt to do it, I'm going to keep costs to a minimum and I 
> expect I'm going to do the Lexus AFM/Lucas injectors like Reg has done.
> I should be able to get all the parts for under $1000 and I hope to get 
> the labor done for less than $400.
> 
> Aaron B.
> 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo
> 

  The cheapest way to fix the problem is to port the wastegate but 
external wastegate will be much more accurate.  If I were you I would get 
the FCD and F-Con and external wastegate.  No fuel cut, more power and 
accurate boost control, problem is money.

Kerry H.

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:40:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo]  Engine broken in, observations

   Hi guys.  I'm now up to 2200 miles on the new engine.  As soon as I hit
1500 I cranked the boost level up and started playing with it.  It felt 
really strong when I first cranked it up, but now it's becoming routine 
again. :)  The bad part is that I have worse boost spiking than ever.  I 
have my EVC III set at .55 bar (8.1 PSI!) and I still hit the fuel cut 
when I accelerate real hard.  I think this is mainly due to my turbo, 
which is a stock CT26 modified with a much larger (Super-H) compressor 
wheel and clipped exhaust wheel.  It has a larger intake, but the same 
size scroll area and the stock integral wastegate.  This turbo really 
almost behaves in a binary manner, especially when launched hard.  I 
hardly get any boost up to about 3000, then between 3000 and 4000 it 
comes on _hard_, especially in first and second gear.  In first gear if I 
start with the accelerator floored, the car eases off the line then squats a 
lot when I hit 4000 rpm, very noticeable.

     Anyway, I think boost is building just too darn fast under those
conditions for the stock waste gate to open fast enough to bleed it off. 
I think the stock waste gate is a) too slow and b) too small an opening for
the current state of my car.  Also, I've noticed that the stock boost
gauge seems to respond fairly slowly, which is partially why I've been
confused about my boost spiking problem.  I would hit the fuel cut before
the boost needle hit 8 psi.  But if I watch the boost gauge built into the
EVC III I see the boost go up fast when I hit 4000 rpm and spike above .55
PSI almost immediately.  The problem especially seems to occur if I'm 
accelerating from a stop around a turn, since the load on the engine is 
greater and everyone knows the greater the engine load the faster the 
boost comes on (to a point), which is why with simple boost bleeders 
it's hard to hit max boost in first gear.

   Even though I have the "fuzzy logic" EVC III, which supposedly prevents
boost spiking, I'm still having this problem.  I think this is due to the
way the EVC III is tuned.  You put the car in 3rd gear at 1000 rpm then
floor it.  Using this method, the boost slowly increases from 1000-3000
rpm and then speeds up a bit from 3000 on to the stock boost limit.  You
do that three times and supposedly the EVC III then "knows"  the response
curve of the turbo.  The problem is that the response curve under that
gradually increasing engine rpm scenario is far different than when you've
launched hard, ran through first gear, then slammed into second gear.  In
this scenario, the turbo is already spinning at high speed and you
generally pop the clutch at 2000-3000 rpm.  Obviously the turbo will
respond much quicker and come onto boost far faster in this scenario than
it does in the EVC learn scenario.  I've tried doing the EVC learn thing
in lower gears and at higher rpms, but that always seems to get worse
results, more spiking, maybe because the learn program can't keep up with
the rapidly changing parameters under those conditions. 

   So, does anyone have any experience or thoughts on aftermarket, 
external wastegates?  I think I'm going to have to get one to solve this 
problem.  The other alternative is to get an F-CON and FCD, which will 
not prevent the boost from spiking but it will keep the fuel cut from 
happening.  I just worry that the higher boost I run the higher it's 
going to spike, and when I run 20 PSI of boost I don't want to spike up 
to 30.

   Also, I've 90% decided to go ahead and do the injector upgrade, even 
though it puts me farther in debt... at this point, I'm pretty much just 
treating my car repairs/enhancements as getting behind another car loan.
I plan to keep this car forever anyway... :)  Given that I'm going 
farther into debt to do it, I'm going to keep costs to a minimum and I 
expect I'm going to do the Lexus AFM/Lucas injectors like Reg has done.
I should be able to get all the parts for under $1000 and I hope to get 
the labor done for less than $400.

Aaron B.
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:54:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

  Also, I should mention that as an experiment while travelling down the
interstate today I floored it in fifth gear and slowly increased the boost
.01 bar (.147 psi) at a time (one neat trick to do with the EVC) until the
fuel cut kicked in.  It kicked in at .68 bar, about 10.0 PSI.  As I
understand it the fuel cut is not caused by a certain boost level, it is
caused by a certain mass air flow level determined by the AFM.  Since my
engine is bored bigger than stock and since I have an upgraded, extremely
low pressure loss intercooler (but still have the stock fuel computer,
which is rare for my level of mods -- anyone know someone else in a
similar situation?) I get a higher level of air flow at 10 psi than stock,
presumably equivalent airflow to a stock car at 12 to 13 psi, so I don't
think there's anything "wrong" with my car.  But it is pretty darn 
aggravating!!!  All this potential under the hood and the party-pooper 
ECU freaks out and calls a halt to the fun.

Aaron B.
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:41:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kerry Haunt 
To: Aaron Buhr 
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

> 
>     I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I 
> wonder how much effect it would have.  And I wish I could afford to do it 
> all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger 
> injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and 
> FCD.
> 
> Aaron B.
> 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo
> 
  How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the 
injectors.  This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse 
rate.  I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors.  This 
way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi.  Also Ara (MKIV) 
posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run 
rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought

Kerry H.

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:15:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: Kerry Haunt 
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt wrote:
>   The cheapest way to fix the problem is to port the wastegate but 
> external wastegate will be much more accurate.  If I were you I would get 
> the FCD and F-Con and external wastegate.  No fuel cut, more power and 
> accurate boost control, problem is money.

    I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I 
wonder how much effect it would have.  And I wish I could afford to do it 
all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger 
injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and 
FCD.

Aaron B.
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 23:44:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Horton 
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, garyh@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re:  How often do you buy a car? To Buy or to upgrade, that is the ?

>> I am wondering how often do you buy cars?

We used to get them every four years, but they are getting more reliable and
more expen$ive -- we haven't gotten a new one since '89 (not counting my '73,
which we bought two years ago).

>> I can't justify buying another car since I already have two

It seems to me that a Typhoon or a Supra-TT would fit about the same niche as
your M3 (I think that was your point), though I'm kind of a Bimmer fan myself.

>> 89 BMW M3    - install an ERT Supercharger w/custom chip ($6k).

Do those only go on M3's or do they also go on other E30 models -- the 325iX
in particular?

I'm curious about this supercharger, because I've never heard of such a mod
before and it sounds like fun ;)

Chuck

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:53:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: supraman 
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, supraman wrote:
> 	I think your problem could lie in your fuel system.  No only is the fuel cut defencer needed but I 
> think your stock computer is having trouble matching up fuel delivery with the increased air flow of the H trim 
> upgrade.  Many people use that Turbonetics upgrade with great success but they all have F-cons and VPC's  (or 
> at least the ones I know).  I think the F-con and FCD will solve your problems.  The bigger injectors and air 
> box are a good idea too.  I think Reg is running a Lexus air box conversion and is quite happy with the 
> results.  One other problem that you could have is the stock swing-valve type waste gate.  I hate those things 
> and would strongly recommend a Turbonetics deltagate or a HK$ one.

    Thanks for the advice.  Unfortunately I really can't justify sinking 
another $3000 into the car right now.  What is your opinion on how I can 
get the most horsepower out of my current setup for $1500?  The options are:

1)  Get the Lexus AFM/Lucas injector upgrade.  I expect that since the 
injectors are 25% larger than stock (550 vs. 440) the Lexus AFM has about 
the same ratio, so that the fuel cut will occur 25% higher with it than 
it does now.  Since now I hit cut at 25 absolute PSI, the fuel cut would 
then be somewhere around 31.25 PSI absolute, or around 16.25 psi relative 
to atmospheric.  With my boost spiking problem I expect I could set my 
boost to around 13 psi and not spike above 16.25.  This is _with_ larger 
injectors.  Horsepower: ????  Cost:  $1400.

2) Get the FCON/FCD and external wastegate.  This should allow me to go 
as high boost as I want, but I expect the stock injectors can't supply 
fuel to make any boost level beyond 12-13 PSI worthwhile, especially with 
my high-flow H-trim turbo and low-restriction intercooler.
Horsepower: ????  Cost:  $1300-$1400.

3) Get the FCON/FCD and Lucas injectors.  This should allow me to go as
high boost as I want and supply fuel for it, but if I run high boost
levels (above 18 PSI) I expect I will get a 4+ PSI spike (without an
external wastegate) and I worry about cracking valves or spark plugs with
that kind of spike.  This is the highest hp of these three scenarios, but
it will also probably cost about $2000 (without external wastegate), and 
that's hard to stomach right now. 

   Does anyone have any of the following they'd like to sell me, or know 
where I can get them cheap?
1) FCON & FCD for '90 7MGTE
2) 550 cc injectors for '90 7MGTE
3) external wastegate?

Aaron B.

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:55:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

   I should mention that it's going to kill me if I have to settle for 8 
PSI of boost after all this...   :-/

Aaron B.
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 00:05:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: Kerry Haunt 
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt wrote:
>   How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the 
> injectors.  This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse 
> rate.  I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors.  This 
> way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi.  Also Ara (MKIV) 
> posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run 
> rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought

    Along those same lines, has anyone had any experience with using 
adjustable fuel pressure regulators that increase fuel pressure as boost 
increases?  They should be fairly cheap.  I monitor the f-body (Camaro & 
Firebird) mailing list to keep an eye on the competition and they have 
guys running 10 lbs of supercharged boost on their 350 ci V8s using 
their stock 24lb/hr (or whatever unit) fuel injectors, with an adjustable 
fuel pressure regulator.  If it works for them, I'd think it would work 
for us.

Aaron B.
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 00:13:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Timberwolf 
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Boost Spiking

On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote:

>      Anyway, I think boost is building just too darn fast under those
> conditions for the stock waste gate to open fast enough to bleed it off. 
> I think the stock waste gate is a) too slow and b) too small an opening for
> the current state of my car.  Also, I've noticed that the stock boost
> gauge seems to respond fairly slowly, which is partially why I've been
> confused about my boost spiking problem.  I would hit the fuel cut before
> the boost needle hit 8 psi.  But if I watch the boost gauge built into the
> EVC III I see the boost go up fast when I hit 4000 rpm and spike above .55
> bar almost immediately.

Hmmm...OK, since this is my first post to any of these lists, I hope this 
works...

What I had suggested from a friend who owns a '90 Talon TSi was that you 
may not have large enough vaccum lines leading between the EVC III and 
the wastegate on both sides.  Apparently someone on the Talon list had 
similar problems with boost spiking, since the EVC wants to snap the 
wategate open very quickly and the vaccum lines just couldn't suck hard 
enough. :)  Also, he suggested porting the wategate housing on the 
exhaust side, since that may be part of the problem as well.  Hmmm...I'm 
not sure what mods you have on there, but he also just suggested that it 
might be too restrictive an exhaust system.  Mind you, these are all his 
suggestions.  I'm just a lowly little MR2 MKI n/a owner.  These turboed 
thingys are above me...

Dave, aka =Timberwolf=
'87 MR2 MKI "The Top" (It spins! )
'85 GS700ES "Zook"

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To: Toyota mods 
From: Harry Pitaro 
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 00:45:48 EST
Subject: Re: Warped brakes

Have you checked the amount of brake pad you have left? There is a metal pad
wear indicator that starts rubbing on the rotor and making terrible sounds once
you have worn your pads down to that level. Just a stab in the dark. :-)

** Reply to note from Tony York  07/03/96 09:49am PDT

> Just recently, I've been hearing something that sounds like my brakes are 
> warped.  I could hear them when I drive over 30km/h, and it gets louder 
> as I go faster.  I'm quite convinced they're the sound of warped brakes. 
> How it happened is still a puzzle to me.  It seemed to happened right 
> after I had the springs and shocks installed by someone.  I'm not sure if 
> this is just by coincidence.  I'm pretty sure they come from the front 
> brakes.  My question is, how bad does this do to the car.  I could care 
> less about the rotors, I'm thinking of replacing or resurfacing them 
> anyways.  What about the engine? Does this warping give unnecessary 
> strain to the engine?  I knew the brakes were warped before.  Every time 
> I braked going down a steep hill or from high speeds I could hear a groan 
> from the wheels like the rotors were warped.  I just don't know why the 
> sound comes up when I drive normally.  Not to mention the noise is quite 
> annoying.  Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Richard
> '86 Celica GTS
> 
>
===============================================================================
> 
> I still have a problem with my brakes, possibly warped again, within 12
months 
> (Toyota part as well!). I am now starting to get a scraping sound as I go 
> around a right hand bend only. Brakes still judder under high speed braking 
> 70mph or higher. As you say the noises coming from the brakes is quite
anoying 
> not to mention a bit concerning.
> Any help on the "ch..ch..ch..ch" noise.
> thanks
> 
> Tony York
> 
> 1 Woodley Chase
> Duston
> Northampton
> England
> NN5 6PS
> 
> Tel: 01604 586200
> Email: york@radstone.co.uk
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
> Colour:	White
> Engine:	4A-GE
> Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
> Miles:	105000
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Kind regards,
Harry Pitaro
_____________________
Melbourne,  Australia
pitaro@ozemail.com.au
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 01:52:00 -0400
From: Andy 
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: Aaron Buhr ,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

Kerry Haunt wrote:
> 
> >
> >     I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I
> > wonder how much effect it would have.  And I wish I could afford to do it
> > all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger
> > injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and
> > FCD.
> >
> > Aaron B.
> > 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo
> >
>   How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the
> injectors.  This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse
> rate.  I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors.  This
> way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi.  Also Ara (MKIV)
> posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run
> rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought
> 
> Kerry H.

I believe this is done also with a high pressure regulator along with a high 
pressure pump.  The regulator increases the pressure in the rail causing more 
fuel to spray during the pulse rate.

			../andy

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From: Gary H 
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: How often do you buy a car? To Buy or to upgrade, that is the ?
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 23:15:42 -0700

Hi There,

I am wondering how often do you buy cars?

In my family, my parents usually buy a car every four years since '78.
This is about the time most people saved enough money to purchase something
big, like a car/truck.

It's been about four years since I purchased my last car and I'm tempted to
get a used truck (GMC Typhoon) or car (Supra TT).

Only thing is I can't justify buying another car since I already have two, an
82 Celica GT and 89 BMW M3.  Should I use the money on upgrades? If I
upgrade, I would do the following:

82 Celica GT - install an LC 22R 200HP engine ($6k), or
89 BMW M3    - install an ERT Supercharger w/custom chip ($6k).

Currently, the car that needs to be fixed up is the Celica.  The engine has
worn rings (160K miles).  The reason why I would not do it is because the
Celica is worth about $1.5k, and putting in $6k sounds ridiculous.

There is absolutely no problems with th 89 M3.  Putting $6k into it seems
more justifiable only because that car is worth a whole lot more than the
Celica.  The Celica, however, is more in need of an upgrade.

Also, if I upgrade vs buying, I'll save on car insurance!

Comments?
Thanks,
Gary

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:21:51 -0700
Subject: Re: warped brakes
To: ILV83779 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, ILV83779  wrote:

>It was also mentioned a while back that brake warpage can occur when the 
>brakes are kept on during our frequent intersection stops. Since keeping 
>the brakes on the rotor traps heat, it will effect it. It is recommended 
>that when possible, put the car in neutral and let off the brakes during 
>traffic driving.
>I guess this isn't a problem for X-drilled rotors.

Naw, they just crack under stress.

Kip Anderson  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
91 MR2 Turbo (Sold? Back maybe?  Dont' ask.)    _|
kca@interserv.com _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso   _|  _|  _|  _|

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 23:38:53 -0700
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations
To: Kerry Haunt ,
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,

On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt  wrote:
>  How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the 
>injectors.  This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse 
>rate.  I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors.  This 
>way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi.  Also Ara (MKIV) 
>posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run 
>rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought

I think I read somewhere that most injectors are designed to run with much more 
than stock pressure to them.  Changing the pressure will definately affect the 
mix.

Kip Anderson  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
91 MR2 Turbo (Sold? Back maybe?  Dont' ask.)    _|
kca@interserv.com _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso   _|  _|  _|  _|

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 08:16:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kerry Haunt 
To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

On Thu, 4 Jul 1996, Andy wrote:

> Kerry Haunt wrote:
> > 
> > >
> > >     I really don't want to have to send the turbo off to be ported, and I
> > > wonder how much effect it would have.  And I wish I could afford to do it
> > > all, but after $5000 in engine repairs I can't afford $1400 for bigger
> > > injectors/AFM, $500 for an external wastegate, PLUS $1000 for an FCON and
> > > FCD.
> > >
> > > Aaron B.
> > > 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo
> > >
> >   How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the
> > injectors.  This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse
> > rate.  I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors.  This
> > way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi.  Also Ara (MKIV)
> > posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can run
> > rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought
> > 
> > Kerry H.
> 
> I believe this is done also with a high pressure regulator along with a high 
> pressure pump.  The regulator increases the pressure in the rail causing more 
> fuel to spray during the pulse rate.
> 
> 			../andy
> 
  True, but just a high pressure fuel pump will help alot, the dsm guys I 
know runs stock regulator, high flow pump and upgraded turbos.  On stock 
injectors.  Changing both probably allows even more fuel.

Kerry H.

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Speed Limiter
To: gettlerj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 12:34:36 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> HI!!!... :-)
> 
> Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA??  If so, 
> could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but I 
> was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)??  Thanks.
> 
> Jim Gettler
> gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil
> 

Jim,
	I noticed in the Select Sales catalog that they have a speed limiter
defeater available.  Their number is (305) 888-2828.

					Aly
					'85 MR2

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Speed Limiter
To: gettlerj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 12:39:05 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> HI!!!... :-)
> 
> Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA??  If so, 
> could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, but I 
> was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)??  Thanks.
> 
> Jim Gettler
> gettlerj@radium-vs1.hanscom.af.mil
> 

Jim,
	I just remembered that I'm not sure if Select Sales was selling a
speed limiter or a rev limiter.  Sorry for my misunderstanding.  Call Select
Sales and check with them.  They can probably steer you in the right
direction anyway. :)

					Aly
					'85 MR2

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 11:58:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mike Kronvold 
To: Aaron Buhr 
Cc: supraman ,
Subject: Re: [7MGTE/'90 Supra Turbo] Engine broken in, observations

On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote:
>     Thanks for the advice.  Unfortunately I really can't justify sinking 
> another $3000 into the car right now.  What is your opinion on how I can 
> get the most horsepower out of my current setup for $1500?  The options are:
> Aaron B.

     I can't tell you what would be best in the short run but I think you 
  should look at it a different way.

     Don't think about how to get the most out of what you have now, 
  think about what your ultimate goal is (20psi I believe?)
     Make the money you spend put you towards that goal.  Don't worry 
  about running stock boost in the meantime.  You are ultimately going to 
  want the injectors, AFM upgrade, FCD/FCON and the external wastegate.
  It's the only way to do it RIGHT.
     So, in light of your money situation, I'd spend $500 and get a 
  deltagate.  See how that effects your spiking problem (it should help).
  And then the FCD/FCON to help control fuel delivery at higher boost 
  levels (the stock computer is rather rigid in it's mapping, it's not 
  used to the larger bore and foriegn boost curve.)  It won't let you run 
  > 12psi yet, but it sets you up for the next step of injectors and VPC 
  or lexus AFM.
     Yes, it sucks to spend that kinda money and still have to run near 
  stock boost, but 20psi is worth the wait.

 - Mike

--
Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623
Road racers go in deep and come out hard.    1992 Toyota Supra Turbo
    I don't drive fast, I fly low

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 10:35:31 -0700
From: jgrospe@globalpac.com (jgrospe)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name:	Joel Grospe
Loc'n.:	Walnut, CA (Los Angeles suburb)
Model:	1992 MR2 Turbo Red Hardtop
Engine:	3S-GTE 2.0L 4 cylinder turbocharged
Mods:	Autolite platinum plugs (try it- seems to pull harder on >5K 	
	rpms than stock NDs)
As of July '96:	55,000 miles
e-mail:	jgrospe@globalpac.com

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From: Gary H 
To: jah@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: How often do you buy a car? To Buy or to upgrade, that is the ?
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 13:13:06 -0700

Joseph Horton  wrote:
|>> I am wondering how often do you buy cars?
|
|We used to get them every four years, but they are getting more reliable and
|more expen$ive -- we haven't gotten a new one since '89 (not counting my '73,
|which we bought two years ago).

Yes, both my cars have been reliable.  I keep procrastinate getting another car
until something happens to one.  The longer I can put this off the better!

|>> I can't justify buying another car since I already have two
|
|It seems to me that a Typhoon or a Supra-TT would fit about the same niche as
|your M3 (I think that was your point), though I'm kind of a Bimmer fan myself.

I have an E30 M3, not the newer one.  That car is fun to drive though.
Unfortunately, I drive it about two weekends a month which isn't much.
That's about 4 full days in a month not counting the time I take it to work
and Friday nights.  But don't let that fool ya cuz in those four days, I put
on about 800 miles

|>> 89 BMW M3    - install an ERT Supercharger w/custom chip ($6k).
|
|Do those only go on M3's or do they also go on other E30 models -- the 325iX
|in particular?
|I'm curious about this supercharger, because I've never heard of such a mod
|before and it sounds like fun ;)

I'll email you info when I get back from my business trip.

Gary

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 16:18:47 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Richard Ngun 
Subject: 1990 Celica GTS

Anyone done some modifications to a 1990-94 style Celica GTS?
                        oOOOo 
                       | O o |  "Mistakes? Impossible!  I
                        \ ' /    have an error correcting
                        /   \    modem!"
                     oOO     OOo
                    V A N C O U V E R  C A N U C K S ' 9 6

                        .-=[ rngun@intergate.bc.ca ]=-.

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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 10:47:50 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: More fuel injector theories.

Hiya All,

>On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Kerry Haunt  wrote:
>>  How about getting FCD and bigger fuel pump with higher pressure to the=
=20
>>injectors.  This way you will get alot more fuel with the same pulse=20
>>rate.  I have seem my friend's talon run 350hp on stock injectors.  This=
=20
>>way you will eliminate the fuel cut and run more psi.  Also Ara (MKIV)=20
>>posted that he had a single turbo upgrade , vpc and fuel pump and it can=
 run=20
>>rich on stock injectors, must be the fuel pump's pressure. Just a thought
>
>I think I read somewhere that most injectors are designed to run with much
more=20
>than stock pressure to them.  Changing the pressure will definately affect=
 the=20
>mix.
>
I'm not 100% knowledgeable on the standard computer set-ups, but the way I
understand it under normal conditions it doesn't matter how big or what
pressure you run in the injectors (Within resonable limits) because the EFI
computer system that Toyota uses is a 'closed loop' system. This means that
the computer will always go for the 'optimum' fuel/air ratio as measured by
the O2 sensor. (What Toyota considers optimum, that is)
Where it would make the difference is under full throttle - I've talked with
Bruce Connelly and the way I understand it the computer (In a 4AGE at least)
ignores the O2 sensor under full throttle and simply runs a pre-programmed
injector pulse duty cycle, so you'll get more fuel if you've got more fuel
pressure or bigger injectors. I guess that's pretty much what you'd want -
normal fuel scheduling for normal driving, and more fuel with a bootful of
throttle.
I'm not sure if all the Toyota computers of the last few years work on this
priciple, but I'd say they'd probably stick to a similar concept all the way
throught the models. (Enviromental legislation constraints, etc)

The =DF Man.

P.S. FWIW, for the Aussies on this list, 'M&M Auto Spares' on the Gold Coast
(Ph 07-55371922) will be getting five 100Kw 4AGE's at the end of next week.
Make that four - my name's already on one of them. :)

~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=3D-~-=
=3D-~
  "Well, I didn't expect the Spanish Inquisition!"
    "=A1=A1Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!!"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 20:53:16 -0500
To: Adrienne Mora ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: Speed Limiter

>> > Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA??
>>If so,
>> > could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one,
>>but I
>> > was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)??  Thanks.
>
>I'm not sure about the later model US cars .. but all the japanese cars have
>speed limiters that cut in at about 180-190kph.  Now ..... if you've got a
>manual .. look up in the EFI system .. specifically the computer.  There's
>little pictures of the plugs and what all the wires going into them are for.
>  A fellow MR2er electronics wiz looked in my manual and figured it just a
>simple wire cut that goes into the computer .... a purple one i think .. but
>best you check it first!!  : )  And that's with the earlier SC model, so it
>may be different.
>
>At least I won't hit the dam thing down the back of straight of the local
>race track!! (when i finally get my car back together that is : )
>
>Ade

What does that come out to in mph - 110mph or so?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 22:43:30 -0400
To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: Re: 5th and gone........
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Ok, i have a lot..i mean A bunch of experience with the VW's , but I just
got an 87 Na Mr2, and the only complaint I have about it is that when
cruising at approx 55 to 70 mph when i come off throttle the transaxle pops
out of 5th.
It will stay in as long as I hold it in, or stay on the throttle.
any ideas?
greencg@gate.netAt 11:21 PM 7/1/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Shafted,
>   I lost a bolt out of the tranny and it slowly lost oil.
>The fifth gear is "external" so it gets the least lube in such a situation.
>The "diamond" cut on the gear had sheared off on one side (while I was
>driving X-country), so the sleave would no longer lock in place.
>On deceleration, it would stay fine.  But, as soon as I touched the gas
>**pop**.......out it came.  (And I had to drive a long way in 4th)   :(
>
>By 're-notching' the gear, it allowed the sleave something to grab onto to
>hold it into gear.   Works fine.  90,000 miles proven.
>(Keep in mind, this is my daily driver.  I do not race or drag my baby.)
>
>This whole project was a crap-shoot.
>I really had know idea it would work, but I had nothing to lose.
>If it didn't work, I would have had to replace the gear anyway.
>Who knew?
>I used a LOT of carb cleaner as I went along to keep the grindings out of the
>rest of the tranny.
>I filled it with t-fluid, drove to work and back and then changed it again to
>be sure.
>(20,000 miles back I dropped an oil additive in it ---like "DuraLube"--- just
>to maybe buy myself some more miles before I have to do a total rebuild.
>
>Any questions?
>
>Until Next.........................Robert
>                                           '85 MK1 179,500.........
>
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net
hklj21a@prodigy.com

 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
BF
"mmmmmmmm.......Doughnut........"
HS
" The secret to a good life , Is knowing when your through "
William " Duke " Divens     R.I.P. 12-12-96

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From: Starlet16v@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 00:02:20 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Fwd: Muffler

 What car comes with this engine....1MZ-FE engine?

Radley
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	skchang@ucdavis.edu (Shung-Kung Chang)
Sender:	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
To:	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: 96-07-02 14:20:15 EDT

Hi:
        Have you tried any Remus muffler? Is it good? I'm thinking to
replace my stock muffler with Remus but I would like to have some inputs
before I spend $400 for a muffler on 1MZ-FE engine.

Sincerely

Shung-Kung Chang

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 23:54:26 -0600
From: Rick Martinez 
Subject: JR bolt on air filter for Corolla GTS
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

The other day I noticed that someone on this list has a Corolla GTS with
a JR bolt on air filter.  I was just wondering what kind of design this
filter is and where it was purchased.

Thanks

Rick Martinez
rickm@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 96 10:50:45 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Speed Limiter

To the list,
The Japnesse cars do have a speed limiter and it just about killed me one
day racing. However for the 4Ag please dont cut the wire you may get an error
code at over 100 KM/Hour because the ECU measures the vac and says the speed
cannot be zero. Same thing if you take the speedo out. I havent tried this on
other than MR2 and AE 86 and AE82 however the speed circuit comes from the
speedo itself. To defeat the circuit remove the dash and locate the speed
sensing ciruit it is clearly seen as a rotating mechanism which what looks
like a bi-metalic strip from a heater. The probe of the strip moves up and
down over a certain speed and the ECU counts the pulses until it reaches
the cut out rate. Remove one of the connecting bolts behind the speedo which
connects this strip. The ECU does not log an error. You can sometimes check
if your car has one of these devices, the speedo will sometimes hesitate at
100-120kmh or bounce backwards for a short time then continue to high speed.
This bouncing is the pulsing mechanism cutting in. I dont know how this works
on the other toyota's, perhaps I had better buy a new MR2 and find out.
Bruce

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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 09:21:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: Re: Speed Limiter
To: Toyota Mods 

> > Does anyone know how to take the speed limiter off of a 1993 MR2 NA?? 
 If
> so,
> > could you tell me how to do it (actually, I am not sure if it has one, 
but
> I
> > was told that it does by one of my friends that has a MR2)??  Thanks.
> >

I'm not sure about the later model US cars .. but all the japanese cars have 
speed limiters that cut in at about 180-190kph.  Now ..... if you've got a 
manual .. look up in the EFI system .. specifically the computer.  There's 
little pictures of the plugs and what all the wires going into them are for. 
  A fellow MR2er electronics wiz looked in my manual and figured it just a 
simple wire cut that goes into the computer .... a purple one i think .. but 
best you check it first!!  : )  And that's with the earlier SC model, so it 
may be different.

At least I won't hit the dam thing down the back of straight of the local 
race track!! (when i finally get my car back together that is : )

Ade
'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver
'84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car
'87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car
AdeM@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand

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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 09:26:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: Catalytic Convertors
To: Toyota Mods 

Hi Richard : )

> Question: is it possible to remove the catalytic convertor?  Should
> I?  Will it give increased performance, and/or fuel consumption?  Am
> I asking to be put in the hurt locker by any local authorities who
> govern emissions?  :)

There are no laws YET about cats in NZ  ... you going to be far more 
friendly to the environment by having a well tuned car, than by having a cat 
that takes 15 mins to warm up.  Getting all the smoking heaps of s**t off 
the road would be another huge step in the environmentally friendly 
direction.

> If I remove a speed limiter (if any), is it likely to be integral to
> the car (like a special gear box) or something simpler?  Should I
> take it off?  :)

yeah .. it should be simple .. see my other post .. but i'm not going to 
remove it from my road car.  I personally don't see the need to go that fast 
on public roads .... partly because I'm building a race car to fulfill that 
neeed  >; )

> Argh, I hate not knowing about these things.  Time to get a mechanics
> course under my belt.  Where's that polytechnic enrolment form
> gone...

hehehe .. you and me both ... but hey ... welcome to the School of the 
Internet! : )

Later

Ade
'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver
'84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car
'87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car
AdeM@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand

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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 19:26:39 +0200
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: ASCII Characters
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

I would like to point out that some ASCII characters used at/for signatures
etc DO NOT come out as expected in some mail programs such as the EUDORA.

In this respect please try to avoid them, especially within HTTP addresses
as for some of us it is not very easy to de-cipher them.

Thanks for the understanding,

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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 23:35:59 GMT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Kevin Annfield 
Subject: Engine Upgrade for RA28 Celica

I know this is a very big ask but what is the best engine mod to do for
about $200AUS. It is the standard 18R. I already have extractors, and these
made a huge difference to the torque. I still have the stock air filter.
Should I replace this so the engine can breath better?? I should be getting
my suspension any day now so I will tell you what everything is when I get
it. Hopefully it will get rid of mid corner bounce and oversteer when i back
off the accelerator. 
Oh well thanks for the advice. 

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From: "Gary Friedman" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date:          Sun, 7 Jul 1996 15:36:55 +0000
Subject:       Tire wear (SP8000)

I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T.  I got the rears in October/95 and
have only put 5000 miles on the car since then.  I noticed that the
rear end was kind of noisy on my drive home today and took a look--
they are just about down to the wear lines!!  I have fun driving but
I don't think I drive aggressively enough to wear them out in 5K 
miles/9 months!!

I expected about 10K or so out of these tires and they are the first 
tires I have managed to wear out evenly-- no over- or under-inflation 
wear at all.  While there is no mileage warranty on them, Dunlop's 
"Customer Satisfaction Department" said to take them to a dealer and 
have them call after inspecting the tires.

            Should I expect Dunlop to make any kind of adjustment??

            Has anyone else managed to kill Z-rated tires this quickly? 

            Do any of the tire wizards out there think Yoko AVS will 
            last a wee bit longer if I switch??

Thanks for any input.....

Gary

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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 12:11:39 -0500 (CDT)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: jacsport@escape.ca (jackson autosport)
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name: John Jackson
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Model: 82 Supra
Engine: 5MGE
Mods: update to 1985 5MGE
      headers
      dual stainless steel exhaust
      K & N powerflow
      4.30 LSD rear end
      Momo steeering wheel
      Bosch lights

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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 96 15:57:04 -0700
From: rockwell 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Celica Supra

Do you have any info. on how to turn a Celica in to a Supra, such as body 
style and engine?? E-Mail back at ERMAC81@aol.com

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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 17:12:38 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall)
Subject: Warning lights

Today is an unusually hot day here in Vancouver about 30 celcius the
hottest day this year, anyway my 86 was behaving fine for the most part
this morning I was doing a lot of shopping after one stop when I went to
restart it everything started fine except my cooling fan light and my brake
and charge lights failed to turn off. So I checked the coolant brake fluid
codes ect and all that came up was a code 10 which according to the haynes
manual means starter signal( no signal to ECU when engine is running over
800rpm.) Trouble area: Starter Relay circuit, IG switch circuit, IG switch,
ECU. I have no idea what to do or how to fix this problem. It runs
perfectly normal and when the rpms hit 4800 the lights turn off for just
over 2 minutes, then they reappear unless I take the revs up to 4800 or so.
 Any ideas in what this may be it seems kind of wierd that every thing
whould come on all at the same time. Time for a new ECU maybe ? =-( 

                                        Please help 

                                                Dave McCristall
                                                Vancouver Canada
 McCristall

Telephone 604 533-4098 
Fax  604 533-7998

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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 22:02:45 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: byrd@mnsinc.com (Dick Byrd)
Subject: Camry Starter Grinding

     Recently my '87 Camry (75Kmi.) began occasionaly giving a horrible=
 grinding sound when the key is turned and the starter tries to engage. =
 Usually everything is OK on a second try.  Sometimes three tries are=
 needed.  The starter pinion is definately not engaging with the ring gear=
 when this happens and I'm afraid I'll damage the ring gear teeth.
  Anybody think its just a sticky pinion gear on the starter and I can free=
 it up, or is my problem probably more involved than that?  Have any list=
 members had this problem?
     Thanks.

Dick Byrd
byrd@mnsinc.com

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From: CARREON_JUAN@tandem.com
Date: 8 Jul 96 23:22:00 +1700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Tire wear (SP8000)

Gary,
I have had same problem with my Datsun 280Z, the rear tires seem to go
really fast, 5 to 10k. I have two size tires, 205/60 14 upfront and
245/50 14 rear. Get very good grip ...but they do wear fast. On my '83
Carmy I have all tires same size and get execellent mileage. I am able
to rotate tires on the Carmy...etc. Since I have two different sizes on
280Z I cannot rotate the tires. Presently ratio is 2.5 rear tires to
single raplacement of front tires. Only different between rear and front
is size. I currently have Dunlop. Generally I have just written this off
as price of fun ;)
Juan

------------   ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT   --------
SENT 07-08-96 FROM SMTPGATE (gfriedmn@ipof.fla.net)

I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T.  I got the rears in October/95 and
have only put 5000 miles on the car since then.  I noticed that the
rear end was kind of noisy on my drive home today and took a look--
they are just about down to the wear lines!!  I have fun driving but
I don't think I drive aggressively enough to wear them out in 5K
miles/9 months!!

I expected about 10K or so out of these tires and they are the first
tires I have managed to wear out evenly-- no over- or under-inflation
wear at all.  While there is no mileage warranty on them, Dunlop's
"Customer Satisfaction Department" said to take them to a dealer and
have them call after inspecting the tires.

            Should I expect Dunlop to make any kind of adjustment??

            Has anyone else managed to kill Z-rated tires this quickly?

            Do any of the tire wizards out there think Yoko AVS will
            last a wee bit longer if I switch??

Thanks for any input.....

Gary

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From: Richard Parry 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date:          Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:00:02 +1200
Subject:       Manuals?

Being the chump I am, I purchased my Sleeka as an import here in NZ.
No manuals, nothing.

Anywhere in NZ that I can get manuals for the pup?  I looked in the 
suppliers list, but it looks like they're US suppliers - I'd prefer 
a local supplier.

Any of you kiwi folk out there can help, do let me know.

Cheerio

Richard

--
 Richard Parry.
 Tonic for the thinking man.              richard@acheron.gemstone.topnz.ac.nz

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From: "Dysart, Glenn B." 
To: Toyota Mods 
Subject: RE: Warning lights
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 07:16:00 PDT

Typically when the dash lights won't go off its your alternator that is bad.

Glenn Dysart
dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil

93 MR2 turbo
87 Corolla SR5

 ----------

>this morning I was doing a lot of shopping after one stop when I went to
>restart it everything started fine except my cooling fan light and my brake
>and charge lights failed to turn off. So I checked the coolant brake fluid

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: JR bolt on air filter for Corolla GTS
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 08:32:30 PDT

Hi,

yes I do have a JR Bolt on air filter. 
It is from Fensport Performance Toyota Parts in England.
It is a very basic design, tubular and completely hollow and clamps staight on 
to your intake system.
Nothing special but does the job; quite noisy though when cold, nice growl and 
whistle.
Any other info required just let me know.

===============================================================================

>The other day I noticed that someone on this list has a Corolla GTS with
>a JR bolt on air filter.  I was just wondering what kind of design this
>filter is and where it was purchased.

>Thanks

>Rick Martinez
>rickm@utxsvs.cc.utexas.edu

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	105000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 08:49:48 +1200
To: richard@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Re: Manuals?

Richard,

I would be tempted to try to use the standard Toyota manuals (about $100-120
NZ each) as much of the info is the same for the imports - but obviously not
all. Go and snivel at your friendly Toyota dealer for a look at their stuff
and see if it is worth it. I buy all my manuals etc from either from Toyota
direct or Technical Books in Wellington or Auckland, or Vital Books in
Auckland. Sorry I don't have addresses but telecom directories (Dial 018)
will provide. Check for pricing - Tech books etc discount 10% for car club
members, but not generally on manuals. Hope this is of help

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Best fun you can have with your pants on.

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:21:03 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Triple rotor lotus story

OK, here is all I know on this beast - sorry it isn't much. I hope you find
this interesting, if not toyota related. Apparently a mazda rotay is either
A: a screw in light bulb or B: a chicken cooker. That should settle the
loyalty issues!

Barry Leitch builds anything you want if you are willing to pay, including
sevens, Brabham BT21s and Lotus 23s. He has also done one-off 1/4 scale
sevens and 6 foot long aluminium bodied cobras for rich children...

Anyway, he sells a few sevens to Japan, and a client over there wanted one
with a Mazda triple rotor 20B intercooled turbo. Barry said he would build
one if the price was right, and I guess it was. I dunno much other than it
is almost finished and runs the mazda motor, box and I believe diff. It has
a fully independent rear (not deDion) and inboard rear suspension. I think
front is inboard also. It has a beefed up spaceframe. I am presently trying
to do a finite element analysis of the seven spaceframe as a varsity
project, but it is too late to help this car!

Apparently the motor is 400 horse, so the car should be 700 horse/ton. I am
about 275 horse/ton, so is the Dodge Viper. The McLaren Can Am cars of the
early 70s were about 1100 horse/ton. Barry is itching to drive it!

Neil Fraser, who is the mainstay of NZ seven manufacture has built one with
a Nissan 200ZX intercooled turbo, and I believe there is a Sierra Cosworth
Turbo one also...
I scare myself with just a 20 valve!

Hope this answers a few questions

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Sedate seven driver!

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:35:03 +1200
To: Erik Berg ,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Toyota Elan

Erik,

In reply to your post, I run a stadard UK Ford Escort live axle in my car,
with appropriate suspension mounts, and are really vague on the Sierra one,
other than having been in a Caterham HPC with a Sierra Cosworth box and diff.

Pity it isn't an easy swap due to those space problems. Of course it can be
made to fit, it all comes down to how much you want to chop and fabricate. I
am really ignorant on the Hewland etc. If the diff is strong enuff given
sensible throttle/clutch application, why not just concentrate on the
axles/universals (CVs etc), and accept some wishbone redesign to eliminate
the binding? I assume this results from the rubber donuts having the
flexibility to cater for some not quite right angular velocity and range of
movement issues?

Yeah, I reckon 7000rpm and clutch dump in first is as bad a loading as you'd
get, even if your tyres break loose, there is still a hell of a shock load
before they light up. That is how a Caterham JPE gets 0-60 mph in 3.4
secs... I refuse to do that in my car, which theretically should return sub
5 second times. Save that sort of idiocy for those with small brains etc
that obviously either don't own the cars or have too much money.

See ya

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:46:35 +1200
To: gettlerj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: fooling speed limiters

I have been away for a few days, and am trying to catch up. I run a reed
switch triggered by a magnet stuck to the driveshaft to get around this,
trouble is it still trigers at the same point, about 180k. I think this is
more due to the diff ratio (4.44) and 60 profiles on 14 inch rims, ie if you
run a taller diff of tyres you will probably be able to rasie the cut out point.

Alternately I would (with the benefit of hindsight) consider snipping the
wires and removing the check engine light to prevent the error message
distracting you. The speed sensor absence does not effect engine performance
and if you suffer an EFI glitch it should be apparent without the warning
light to tell you. Certainly the only computer I have had die (a GM one) was
VERY apparent! You can always put the EFI light back in to check every so
often - just ignore the error code for the speed sensor and worry about any
others.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Superspint 20 Valve - 180 k is fast enuff for road use for me!

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 09:57:27 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: 20 valve prices/parts

People, the result of my trip to Auckland's engine dealers are as follows:

Best prices:

1993 4AGE 20 valve with engine loom (cut at firewall), computer (with plugs
but only 10 cm wire out of them) $1650 NZ + GST (12.5% sales tax) = $1260 US

Engine only $1500 +GST NZ

T-50 Gearbox $200 NZ if buying motor also.

How much to freight to US/Aussie!? Please contact me if you want to try
exporting one!

The motors are easy enuff to get, but the looms and computers aren't. I paid
$2500 NZ total for motor, uncut loom, computer, starter, alternator, engine
relay/fuse box, airflow meter and wiring diagram 2 years ago. The prices
will continue to fall, and availability should improve.

Bill, I was unable to find anyone willing to sell parts only, but have yet
to try Toyota. Are you still interested?

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 10:41:16 +1200
To: simpson ,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: 'Toyota' lotus replicas

We need our own mailing list! A lot comes up on the mods list 'cos Toyota
motors are the most popular/sensible choice (unless you own a caterham). I
have tried to contact an unofficial seven homepage but my messages get
rejected. I will keep trying, as there is obviously a need for a page, but I
don't have the time/knowledge to do it, despite being very interested.

Justen wrote:

>G'day Phil,
>Just a query or two about these lotus replicas that have been appearing 
>with increasing regularity in Toyota-mods. I've seen a couple of write 
>ups in Wheels etc on Westfields and the like and they always seemed a bit 
>expensive to me (+ $30,000). In your experience what would be the 
>cheapest way to get into one of these cars and which type offers the best 
>performance. Ideally I would like a good condition car minus motor, 
>gearbox. As I am 6'2" one of the larger styles might also be more 
>appropriate. Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
>Cheers,
>Justen

I have looked closely at both the Fraser and Leitch in NZ, having built and
rebuilt my Leitch and helped a lot with the present build of a Fraser. I
have also just volunteered myself to help wire up Adrienne's Fraser (I hope
Steve told her) with the supercharged 4AGE. Both Fraser and Leitch are
quality products, and I would not recomend one over the other - I would
happily own either. Be warned that no seven replicas are the same - the
Leitch and Fraser are quite different when you get them side by side, and
both have pluses and minuses.

I have looked at a recent (post lawsuit) Westfield, and to me is not
visually appealing (despite being very well finished - its a design thing).
I went for a ride in an ex demonstrator Caterham HPC in UK last year, nice
car, but very expensive. I don't think it is any better than the local
product, it only has the name. I can't comment on the Aussie replicas, but
ether of the NZ ones would not disapoint.

As for cheapest method, build new from a kit, do most of it yourself, and
buy wisely. Unfinished projects or modifying finished cars can involve much
expense and time working backwards before you move forwards. It is very
important to remember that the kiwi 'Lotus 7s' evolve continuously - my kit
is 4 years old and has a live axle. Now you can get de Dion or fully
independent rears, inboard suspension front and back, let alone a much wider
engine choice. You need to seriously consider your budget and what you want
to use the car for, and spec it accordingly. 

In NZ I maintain I can build a Fraser/Leitch fully finished with full trim
etc (and not cuttng corners) on a standard injected Toyota (ie 20 valve,
4AGE or 3SGE) for about $30k NZ on the road. Thing is once you go inboard,
independent, fancier motor (ie 200ZX turbo or modified), wilwoods, 3 piece
wheels, race rubber, paint (not polished ally/gelcoat) etc it all goes up. I
believe the ZX Turbo Fraser (sold built up) cost $78K...seems a bit high,
but I'd believe 60 easy enuff.

My car, in December 1992, was registered and on the road for $ 23K NZ($1 NZ
=68US cents). That was with injected 4AGE, leather bucket seats, clamshell
guards, full carpet, hood, doors, full tonneau, used wheels but new tyres (I
was hunting for classic Dulop Alloys which I have recently replaced). I did
as much as I could myself, which was everything except exhaust, uphosltery
and wheel alignment. The 20 valve rebuild 2 years ago which amounted to a
complete re-wire and general tidy up as well and  cost another 8K (of which
motor cost me 4.5K installed). I reckon I could copy my car for about 27K now.

I am 185cm tall and fit ok, and the long cockpits are a bit longer again
now. I also have a couple of friends who weigh in at 105 kG - one is real
muscle, the other is drinking muscle, and they both squeeze in OK! 

As for performance, it largely comes down to engine choice, hence all the
posts! I would strongly recomend putting in at least 160 horse, and maybe up
to 200. I suspect above 200 is a bit silly for road use. I also believe that
a lot of toss is written about sevens, especially ex UK,  and the notion
that a Caterham k series with 130 horse is nicely balaced is written by
people who have never driven my car with 165 horse. Most kiwi seven builders
want HPC level performance - then again, most escorts sold here were 1600cc,
cortina 2000cc whilst in England they were 1100 and 1600 cc respectively.
Perks of having hills in NZ and roads you can use a seven on properly!

This is long enuff, hope it provides food for thought. Please contact me
individually for copies of the magazine articles I have written on engine
installations (unforunately they are text only). 

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Scares the pants off Supercharged MR2 drivers
- Ask Adrienne!

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:40:52 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary)
Subject: Corolla exhaust opinions?

Toyota gurus-

I'm looking for some opinions based on experience here.  After a couple
years in the slushy northeast US, the HKS exhaust on my 87 Corolla GTS
rusted out in billions of places and I've gotten sick of trying to patch it
up just to have some other part of the system spring a leak.  I considered
replacing it with another HKS or similar system, but the prices seem to
have gone through the roof.  So I'm considering a couple of options.  One
is to have a local muffler shop bend up a 2" pipe to fit from the cat back
and stick a DynoMax muffler on the end.  I've had a  DynoMax on the end of
the old HKS pipes for a little while now, and I like the way it sounds. 
However, as an autocrosser a wide torque band is more important to me than
a couple HP on the top end, and there seems to be a noticeable loss of
torque at lower rpm with a couple baseball-size holes blown out of the
muffler.  So the other option I'm considering is getting a stock or
near-stock system put back in.  Does anyone out there have any dyno numbers
or other reasonably hard data on the effects of different exhausts on the
power band of the 4AGE?  Any advice or alternate suggestions would be
appreciated.

Thanks!

-Mike Leary
87 Corolla GTS (E Stock autocrosser)

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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 20:43:02 -0600
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Darin Hamilton 
Subject: suspension upgrade
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Since my '86 is having suspension problems, I'm considering some type of
upgrade.  My car is "squirrelly" under hard cornering (the back end it
wobbling and I'm getting more suspension travel than normal on the left rear).

I'd like to know what might be good ideas/prices/sources for the following:

- bushings
- springs (no more than 1/2" lower, stiffer is okay)
- shocks (adjustable unnecessary)

Please keep in mind that I am on a TIGHT budget, so minimizing cost is
paramount.

Thanks!!!

Darin
--
Darin Hamilton
'86 Blue MkI Mister Two

http://www.econnect.net/~darin (not quite finished yet) ;-)
mailto:darin@econnect.net

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 15:44:57 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Toyota CD roms/Manuals

OK People, can you help on this one? I got this from Richard (recent
subscriber and first time caller!)(Another good Kiwi)

>>You may not be aware, but Toyota NZ now uses global CD roms for parts - if
>>you quote you chassis no. they can tell you where and when your car was
>>built, and its spec! This obviously includes imports.

>I had also heard (although unconfirmed as yet) that Toyota had this big
>database on the Internet with that CD - so you could tell all that
>information just by looking at a URL and popping in some info.
>
>But I haven't been able to find it yet :)  Ah well, the things we do.

Anyone found it?

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 17:11:58 +1200 (NZST)
To: richard@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Liam Venter 
Subject: Re: Manuals?

At 07:00 PM 8/07/96 +1200, Richard Parry wrote:
>Being the chump I am, I purchased my Sleeka as an import here in NZ.
>No manuals, nothing.
>
>Anywhere in NZ that I can get manuals for the pup?  I looked in the 
>suppliers list, but it looks like they're US suppliers - I'd prefer 
>a local supplier.
>
>Any of you kiwi folk out there can help, do let me know.
>
yep, try technical books in New Market.

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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 02:17:13 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: mr2 Tranny

In a message dated 96-07-05 21:42:21 EDT, you write:

<< I'm not sure if you got the other e-mail messages I sent.  But, I am
extremly interested in the details of how you changed your automatic mr2 into
a standard mr2.  Please send me the details a.s.a.p.
 Thank you
 Jeff Gammon
 '86 BLack mr2
 gammong@admin.fcbe.edu.on.ca >>

Jeff, if you're out there... I tried sending you a couple followup messages
but I keep getting the notes kicked back to me undelivered.  Is the above
address correct?  I'll be happy to tell you what it took to swap out the auto
for a 5-speed.

Dave Aucott
daucott@aol.com

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 16:30:57 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: plugs

At the risk of starting one of those endless debates i need some advice 
on what plugs to run in my turbo 18RG (2lt twin cam). I intend running 15 
psi boost (only 8 at present) and the motor will see the track (Wakefield 
Park) fairly often. I am running a 70,000 volt coil with the coldest 
plugs bosch make (1.2 mm gap) but i'm sure there must be something better 
out there.

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 07:59:56 GMT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Kevin Annfield 
Subject: Just about to get an 18RG

Well coming along the highway my 18R started blowing smoke getting real hot
and losing all it's water. A real big bummer because we just replaced the
timing chain AND I have only had the car for 3 weeks. Oh well. My mechanic
said that because the engine got so hot it may have warped the head!!!! And
the rings may have expanded so much becasue of the heat that they might have
stuffed the bores. So now I am going to get my twin cam. I know that Justen
has an enginebut I don't have that sort of money right now and I sort of
need it in the next week because I need my car for work. Is there any thing
I should look out for when I am looking around. Oh well wish me luck. See
you all round.

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From: "James O'Brien" 
Subject: Re: plugs
To: simpson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 16:54:42 +0800 (WST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Hi Justen,
	
Well, my car has just had its plugs replaced as they were causing it to
misfire badly.... They were platinum  and even though they were misfiring
they felt (seat of the pants) much more powerful than the ones that were
put in yesterday.... The plugs were the originals that came in the 4AGE 
in Japan (in Coronas..) but they lasted about 50K kms. 

I'm unable to remember what the plugs were but they were fine... I'm
not sure what the list will recommend but the platinum ones seemed to have been given good reviews here in the past few years....

With the new plugs the car seems a bit sluggish and doesn't seem to have as much go as 
with the old ones.... anyone have any ideas why (apart from poorer qual. plugs?)
The car also needs an oil change so maybe that'll give it a bit more poke...

> 
> At the risk of starting one of those endless debates i need some advice 
> on what plugs to run in my turbo 18RG (2lt twin cam). I intend running 15 
> psi boost (only 8 at present) and the motor will see the track (Wakefield 
> Park) fairly often. I am running a 70,000 volt coil with the coldest 
> plugs bosch make (1.2 mm gap) but i'm sure there must be something better 
> out there.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
>  Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
>  CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
> ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
> 

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 21:25:42 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Corolla exhaust opinions?

Hiya all,

>To the list,
>I need a little help here from the other Aussies, I just dont know why you
>guys in the USA actually buy exhausts rather than having them made. 

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 21:26:00 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Tire wear (SP8000)

>Gary,
>I have had same problem with my Datsun 280Z, the rear tires seem to go
>really fast, 5 to 10k. I have two size tires, 205/60 14 upfront and



>is size. I currently have Dunlop. Generally I have just written this off
>as price of fun ;)
>Juan
>
>I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T.  I got the rears in October/95 and
>have only put 5000 miles on the car since then.  I noticed that the



>"Customer Satisfaction Department" said to take them to a dealer and
>have them call after inspecting the tires.
>

Jeeze, what do you guys do to waste tyres so quickly?
I have Goodyear Eagle NCT 205/50-15's on my AE-86, and they are just
starting to get thin on the rears, (am going to rotate them soon) after
60,000kms. (37,300 miles) They are 'V' rated, so they aren't as soft as the
the Dunlop SP8000's but I don't think they're _that_ much softer. You might
be better off spending some more $$$ on the suspension to make the camber
control work more effectively, because then you'll be able to run harder
tyres that will last longer. And the suspension mods last a lot longer! :)

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
   "On second thoughts, let us not go to Camelot. 
               It is a silly place"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: "James O'Brien" 
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 08:33:07 EDT
Subject: Re: plugs
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> From:          "James O'Brien" 
> Subject:       Re: plugs
> To:            simpson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Date:          Tue, 9 Jul 1996 16:54:42 +0800 (WST)
> Cc:            toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> Hi Justen,
> 	
> Well, my car has just had its plugs replaced as they were causing it to
> misfire badly.... They were platinum  and even though they were misfiring
> they felt (seat of the pants) much more powerful than the ones that were
> put in yesterday.... The plugs were the originals that came in the 4AGE 
> in Japan (in Coronas..) but they lasted about 50K kms. 
> 
> I'm unable to remember what the plugs were but they were fine... I'm
> not sure what the list will recommend but the platinum ones seemed to have been given good reviews here in the past few years....
> 
> With the new plugs the car seems a bit sluggish and doesn't seem to have as much go as 
> with the old ones.... anyone have any ideas why (apart from poorer qual. plugs?)
> The car also needs an oil change so maybe that'll give it a bit more poke...
>
 NGK platinums work best for me. I found Bosch platinums gave me an 
erratic idle. For the sluggish problem you could try setting the gap 
to .035" from .044". 
> > 
> > At the risk of starting one of those endless debates i need some advice 
> > on what plugs to run in my turbo 18RG (2lt twin cam). I intend running 15 
> > psi boost (only 8 at present) and the motor will see the track (Wakefield 
> > Park) fairly often. I am running a 70,000 volt coil with the coldest 
> > plugs bosch make (1.2 mm gap) but i'm sure there must be something better 
> > out there.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > 
> > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
> >  Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
> >  CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
> > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
> > 
> 
=====================================================

Gregory Chan     E-mail: GChan@Compserv.SenecaC.On.Ca
85 Corolla GTS & 73 Datsun 240Z
Computer Support Specialist,Seneca College,Ont,Canada
Tel: (416)491-5050 Ext 2129        Fax: (416)491-6596
             "You break it, I'll fix it."

^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 08:52:57 -0400
From: John Sweazen 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire wear (SP8000)

It is my understanding that mid-engine cars like the MR2 are plagued by rear tire wear.  There are certain factors that cause this:

1.  Mid Engine, rear drive
2.  Different size tires front and back (can't rotate)
3.  Use of Soft sticky tires
4.  Driving the MR2 like it is meant to be driven.

If you are familiar with the Acura NSX... you would know that this car also is known for this problem.  I upped the car to 16" wheels and don't seem to have the rear tires wearing until the 15-20K range... I'm using Perelli P700Z's 225-45ZR-16.  I'm not sure if the size has anything to do with it.  I do know that Acura upped the size of the rear wheel/tires to 17's!!

John

> >Gary,
> >I have had same problem with my Datsun 280Z, the rear tires seem to go
> >really fast, 5 to 10k. I have two size tires, 205/60 14 upfront and
> 
> 
> 
> >is size. I currently have Dunlop. Generally I have just written this off
> >as price of fun ;)
> >Juan
> >
> >I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T.  I got the rears in October/95 and
> >have only put 5000 miles on the car since then.  I noticed that the
> 
> 
> 
> >"Customer Satisfaction Department" said to take them to a dealer and
> >have them call after inspecting the tires.
> >
> 
> Jeeze, what do you guys do to waste tyres so quickly?
> I have Goodyear Eagle NCT 205/50-15's on my AE-86, and they are just
> starting to get thin on the rears, (am going to rotate them soon) after
> 60,000kms. (37,300 miles) They are 'V' rated, so they aren't as soft as the
> the Dunlop SP8000's but I don't think they're _that_ much softer. You might
> be better off spending some more $$$ on the suspension to make the camber
> control work more effectively, because then you'll be able to run harder
> tyres that will last longer. And the suspension mods last a lot longer! :)
> 
> The B Man.
> 
> ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
>    "On second thoughts, let us not go to Camelot. 
>                It is a silly place"
> ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@vanadium.brooks.af.mil
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 96 07:24:25 CST
To: simpson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re: 'Toyota' lotus replicas

     Does anyone have any knowledge of a Lotus 7 replica that is available 
     in the US?  Is the Rotus still being built and what do they cost?

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: 'Toyota' lotus replicas
Author:  Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) at INTERNET-LINK
Date:    7/8/96 6:43 PM

We need our own mailing list! A lot comes up on the mods list 'cos Toyota 
motors are the most popular/sensible choice (unless you own a caterham). I 
have tried to contact an unofficial seven homepage but my messages get 
rejected. I will keep trying, as there is obviously a need for a page, but I 
don't have the time/knowledge to do it, despite being very interested.

Justen wrote:

>G'day Phil,
>Just a query or two about these lotus replicas that have been appearing 
>with increasing regularity in Toyota-mods. I've seen a couple of write 
>ups in Wheels etc on Westfields and the like and they always seemed a bit 
>expensive to me (+ $30,000). In your experience what would be the 
>cheapest way to get into one of these cars and which type offers the best 
>performance. Ideally I would like a good condition car minus motor, 
>gearbox. As I am 6'2" one of the larger styles might also be more 
>appropriate. Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
>Cheers,
>Justen

I have looked closely at both the Fraser and Leitch in NZ, having built and 
rebuilt my Leitch and helped a lot with the present build of a Fraser. I 
have also just volunteered myself to help wire up Adrienne's Fraser (I hope 
Steve told her) with the supercharged 4AGE. Both Fraser and Leitch are 
quality products, and I would not recomend one over the other - I would 
happily own either. Be warned that no seven replicas are the same - the 
Leitch and Fraser are quite different when you get them side by side, and 
both have pluses and minuses.

I have looked at a recent (post lawsuit) Westfield, and to me is not 
visually appealing (despite being very well finished - its a design thing). 
I went for a ride in an ex demonstrator Caterham HPC in UK last year, nice 
car, but very expensive. I don't think it is any better than the local 
product, it only has the name. I can't comment on the Aussie replicas, but 
ether of the NZ ones would not disapoint.

As for cheapest method, build new from a kit, do most of it yourself, and 
buy wisely. Unfinished projects or modifying finished cars can involve much 
expense and time working backwards before you move forwards. It is very 
important to remember that the kiwi 'Lotus 7s' evolve continuously - my kit 
is 4 years old and has a live axle. Now you can get de Dion or fully 
independent rears, inboard suspension front and back, let alone a much wider 
engine choice. You need to seriously consider your budget and what you want 
to use the car for, and spec it accordingly. 

In NZ I maintain I can build a Fraser/Leitch fully finished with full trim 
etc (and not cuttng corners) on a standard injected Toyota (ie 20 valve, 
4AGE or 3SGE) for about $30k NZ on the road. Thing is once you go inboard, 
independent, fancier motor (ie 200ZX turbo or modified), wilwoods, 3 piece 
wheels, race rubber, paint (not polished ally/gelcoat) etc it all goes up. I 
believe the ZX Turbo Fraser (sold built up) cost $78K...seems a bit high, 
but I'd believe 60 easy enuff.

My car, in December 1992, was registered and on the road for $ 23K NZ($1 NZ 
=68US cents). That was with injected 4AGE, leather bucket seats, clamshell 
guards, full carpet, hood, doors, full tonneau, used wheels but new tyres (I 
was hunting for classic Dulop Alloys which I have recently replaced). I did 
as much as I could myself, which was everything except exhaust, uphosltery 
and wheel alignment. The 20 valve rebuild 2 years ago which amounted to a 
complete re-wire and general tidy up as well and  cost another 8K (of which
motor cost me 4.5K installed). I reckon I could copy my car for about 27K now.

I am 185cm tall and fit ok, and the long cockpits are a bit longer again 
now. I also have a couple of friends who weigh in at 105 kG - one is real 
muscle, the other is drinking muscle, and they both squeeze in OK! 

As for performance, it largely comes down to engine choice, hence all the 
posts! I would strongly recomend putting in at least 160 horse, and maybe up 
to 200. I suspect above 200 is a bit silly for road use. I also believe that 
a lot of toss is written about sevens, especially ex UK,  and the notion 
that a Caterham k series with 130 horse is nicely balaced is written by 
people who have never driven my car with 165 horse. Most kiwi seven builders 
want HPC level performance - then again, most escorts sold here were 1600cc, 
cortina 2000cc whilst in England they were 1100 and 1600 cc respectively. 
Perks of having hills in NZ and roads you can use a seven on properly!

This is long enuff, hope it provides food for thought. Please contact me 
individually for copies of the magazine articles I have written on engine 
installations (unforunately they are text only). 

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Scares the pants off Supercharged MR2 drivers 
- Ask Adrienne!

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To: toyota-mods ,
From: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC
Date:  9 Jul 96  9:29:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Tire wear (SP8000)

>I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T.  I got the rears in October/95 and
>have only put 5000 miles on the car since then.  I noticed that the
>rear end was kind of noisy on my drive home today and took a look--
>they are just about down to the wear lines!!  I have fun driving but
>I don't think I drive aggressively enough to wear them out in 5K 
>miles/9 months!!
>            Do any of the tire wizards out there think Yoko AVS will 
>            last a wee bit longer if I switch??

I have SP8000s on my Supra now.  I only have about 1000 miles on them so far, 
but they appear to look "brand new".  I had a set of Yoko A509's on the car at 
one point and I went thru them in about 7000 miles.  It was raining hard one 
day and I was wondering why I wasn't getting any traction.  When I got home and 
looked at them, they were worn down to the belts in places.  I couldn't believe 
I went thru them that fast.

>            Should I expect Dunlop to make any kind of adjustment??

You never know.  You may have gotten a defective set.  The composition may not 
have been correct.

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From: CARREON_JUAN@tandem.com
Date: 9 Jul 96 07:50:00 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Tire wear (SP8000)

 According to the mechanic doing alignment, the rear was within factor
specs. Not much room for mods. On the 280Z have widen the wheel cavity
to accommodate the wider wheels by about 2" and have replace all the
factory rubber with polyurethane bushings. To me, eye balling the rear
toe-in seems a bit much. However, the mechanic states that four wheel
alignment machine finds no problem with toe-in, that is still within
factory specs. The tires wear evenly, ie all tread wears at same rate
all around. Had BF Goodrich TAs that had better wear but were only 'S'
rated, about 25k miles. Had some TOYO 'H' rated 195/70 that gave me the
best mileage 50k miles. I have taken the car to the same mechanic for
wheel alignment (since 1982). Without heavy mods, I think there is not
an easy way to adjust toe-in within factory spec limits. I heard
conflicting reports about the adjustable bushing, ie not holding
settings.

I have no complains with handling and grip. Does not break grip easily.
That is launches quick and without smoke. Has so much grip, that I keep
breaking the differential mount with only 200hp inline six. But handling
in switchbacks or road course is great. Has minimal mods.

When I autocrossed this car in SHOW ROOM STOCK it was very competitive.
Region I was in had top places separated by tenths of seconds and had
SCCA SOLO II top spots for US. Back in the dark ages, '78 to '82.
Since then I have added larger sway bar, the poly bushings and have
tried different springs to lower car. So I am pleased with handling.

Next time I may change tires and try the GOODYEAR's. I don't think I
will go back to TOYO 195/70, but I will keep on looking for longer wear
tires.

bye for now
Juan

------------   ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT   --------
SENT 07-09-96 FROM SMTPGATE (bilzilla@zeta.org.au)

>Gary,
>I have had same problem with my Datsun 280Z, the rear tires seem to go
>really fast, 5 to 10k. I have two size tires, 205/60 14 upfront and



>is size. I currently have Dunlop. Generally I have just written this off
>as price of fun ;)
>Juan
>
>I have Dunlop SP8000s on my 93T.  I got the rears in October/95 and
>have only put 5000 miles on the car since then.  I noticed that the



>"Customer Satisfaction Department" said to take them to a dealer and
>have them call after inspecting the tires.
>

Jeeze, what do you guys do to waste tyres so quickly?
I have Goodyear Eagle NCT 205/50-15's on my AE-86, and they are just
starting to get thin on the rears, (am going to rotate them soon) after
60,000kms. (37,300 miles) They are 'V' rated, so they aren't as soft as the
the Dunlop SP8000's but I don't think they're _that_ much softer. You might
be better off spending some more $$$ on the suspension to make the camber
control work more effectively, because then you'll be able to run harder
tyres that will last longer. And the suspension mods last a lot longer! :)

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
   "On second thoughts, let us not go to Camelot.
               It is a silly place"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 96 09:32:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Toyota CD roms/Manuals
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

On Tue, 09 Jul 1996, Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) wrote:
>
>>>You may not be aware, but Toyota NZ now uses global CD roms for parts - if
>>>you quote you chassis no. they can tell you where and when your car was
>>>built, and its spec! This obviously includes imports.
>
>>I had also heard (although unconfirmed as yet) that Toyota had this big
>>database on the Internet with that CD - so you could tell all that
>>information just by looking at a URL and popping in some info.
>
>Anyone found it?

Better yet, - has anyone found a dealer who would be willing to part with the 
outdated CD's for a small fee??? Mabye they could even find their way on to the 
net then!

- Brian

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 11:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: 'Toyota' lotus replicas
To: Toyota Mods 

> I have looked closely at both the Fraser and Leitch in NZ, having built 
and
> rebuilt my Leitch and helped a lot with the present build of a Fraser. I
> have also just volunteered myself to help wire up Adrienne's Fraser (I 
hope
> Steve told her) with the supercharged 4AGE.

Nope .. he didn't tell me!   : )  sounds great though!

BTW .. that trueno engine must be 20V 4AGZE .. i have printouts from toyota 
that are for 91-95 trueno's .. and they're definately SCed ... so if they're 
20V .. hmmmmm : )  i know a place in tauranga has several trueno engines .. 
but they want $2000 + gst for engine, wiring, computer, intercooler and a 
gearbox. : \

[snippity snip]

> Phil Bradshaw
> Palmerston North NZ
> Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Scares the pants off Supercharged MR2 
drivers
> - Ask Adrienne!

hehehee .... just you wait til my MR2 race car is finished!!  >; )

Ade

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 96 14:06:23 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Corolla exhaust opinions?

To the list,
I need a little help here from the other Aussies, I just dont know why you
guys in the USA actually buy exhausts rather than having them made. It must
be our pricing but it usually costs 3* more to buy the factory Jap thing here
and the one that is made is usually better. The 4AG will work well with 2.5
inch mandrill bent exhaust and the normal headers, the restriction in the
muffler controls the 1-2500 torque and the throttle response. I have the
one pipe and multiple mufflers for different events. A Hollow muffler with
offset pipes has enough torque to be driveable if you can stand the noise.
More restrictive mufflers start to strangle the 4,500 and above band where
the TVIS opens up, it is VERY noticable. The worst situation happens for the
4AG when you shorten the pipe and put it out the door. With cams you end up
spending all day on the limiter and the noise is so bad that you cant run
it in my state any more because of the 'tinny' rattle setting those noise
meters off. In short why cant you put in the 2.5 inch pipe and change the
muffler, it takes 5 minutes and its much better (and cheaper) than a Supertrap.
Bruce

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 96 14:52:04 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota CD roms/Manuals

To the list,
Toyota have had CD/ROMS of all their cars for years. The system is called
EPC and uses DOS or OS/2 Warp. It has three CD roms for all cars plus
Lexus back to the 70's. There are CD updates each month and you can give
it your VIN or just list the models. The WIN/95 version will be available
soon. You MUST be a dealer to have it and to my knowledge it isnt on the net.
It covers the world but a version for 'Austrlian made models' is comming
with this S/W you CAN order parts from anywhere if the local Toyota puts
the number up on the system. The Japanesse ordering system does not
prohibit parts from models never sold in that country.
Bruce C

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 08:22:01 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Engine Swap Shopping List

Hello Good People. There apears to be a fair bit of engine swap traffic and
comparisons of pricing etc (half of which is probably due to me). I am a
little concerned that people are 'forgetting' some of the minor bits that
are kinda important when they are chasing quotes, so here's an attempt at a
generic shopping list for an EFI engine swap, to use when installing a
different type of engine. I have assumed you will use stock ECU etc ie the
cheapest route. Obviously you may not need all the bits listed, use your
discretion. Theory is one big buy will be cheaper than 10 return trips. This
is where written off cars can be a good thing.

Any ommissions please correct!

Engine - fan to clutch, inlet manifold (ie throttle body/air box) to exhaust
manifold (easier to fabricate one or two exhaust pipes then header system -
this way you have option)

Gearbox - include driveshaft yoke! Also make sure bell housing fits engine
block and clutch assy will work/reach

Engine/gearbox mounts and brackets, and subframes - depends heavily on
application

Air flow meter/ MAP senosr - won't go without one! Make sure its the right
one for the ECU/ loom

Air trunking/filter box etc - again application dependent

Loom - as complete as possible (with diagram!)

Computer - right one - 'manual' for manual trans engine etc. Ensure you have
al the plugs and wire stubs - including the one that goes more to the car
than the engine!

HP fuel pump - tank mounted or inline

HP fuel filter - if donor vehicle is not very old, re-use

Igniter/coil pack - right ones again. It helps if the plugs match your loom!

Ignition leads including coil to dizzy - some of the modern leads have funny
plugs (esp. Japanese Imports)

Engine bay fuse/relay box - simplifies wiring considerably and looks
tidy/factory

Alternator/starter motor/air con/power steer - get ones that fit/work -
include brackets

throttle linkages/cable and speedo cable - you may need some of the fittings
attached to a custom cable.

Clutch slave cylinder, fork and rods - self explanatary

HP flexi fuel hose from HP filter to fuel rail - saves making one

Hope this helps

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - looks like a toyota under the bonnet

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 08:54:44 +1200
To: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: US Toyota Lotuses!

>     Does anyone have any knowledge of a Lotus 7 replica that is available 
>     in the US?  Is the Rotus still being built and what do they cost?

Yeah, I believe the Caterham is available from 'Seven and Elevens' in
Massachussets (I think).

Neil Fraser is looking at selling to the US - dealers sign up now! I am
willing to be manager if you will pay! Quite fancy USA! Seriously, I am sure
the Kiwi manufacturers will ship if you want one, and are pretty amenable to
mods - esp. engine wise. They could always send you a kit less motor/box
(but fitted for it) so you can install an EPA legal US motor. Plus full kit
less motor will only weigh about 400 kg.

Food for thought?

Phil Bradshaw
Wannabe Car dealer!

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 14:59:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: springs for '82 starlet
To: Toyota Mods 

Ok you starlet guru's out there ... throw some info at me!! : )

I've got a guy wanting springs for his '82 starlet (3K engine) to lower it a 
bit ... what brand did you use, part number if you have it, how do they feel 
and how much did they lower the car?

Thanks dudes and dudettes : )

Ade
adem@wairc.govt.nz

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Date: 9 Jul 1996 16:22:27 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: Engine Swap Shopping Lis
To: "Phil Bradshaw" ,

 Reply to:     RE>Engine Swap Shopping List

Phil, great idea!  Thanks.  I won't go anywhere without a copy 
of this list in my pocket.  Seriously.
erik.berg@trw.com

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From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 96 18:40:08 -0600
Subject: Re: US Toyota Lotuses!
To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw),

On Wed, 10 Jul 1996, Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) wrote:
>>     Does anyone have any knowledge of a Lotus 7 replica that is available 
>>     in the US?  Is the Rotus still being built and what do they cost?
>
>Yeah, I believe the Caterham is available from 'Seven and Elevens' in
>Massachussets (I think).
>
>Neil Fraser is looking at selling to the US - dealers sign up now! 

Do you have phone nubmers for these dealers?

- Brian

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 21:49:28 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Nipondenso vs. Bosche vs. NGK plugs...

PLATINUMS:

OK all, Which is better?

...and why are NIP's soooooo expensive compared to Bosche???

If NIP's are better, are they really THAT much better (three times the
cost)???

(this ought'a start a real war....)

Until Next......................Robert
                                      '85 MK1 180,050...........
                                      S. OR  USA

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:01:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Tire wear (SP8000)
To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood),

On Tue, 9 Jul 1996, bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) wrote:

>Jeeze, what do you guys do to waste tyres so quickly?

-snip-

>You might
>be better off spending some more $$$ on the suspension to make the camber
>control work more effectively, because then you'll be able to run harder
>tyres that will last longer. And the suspension mods last a lot longer! :)

You are so right!

Unfortunately the MR2 MKII is setup at the factory with more camber than most 
tires can stand within any kind of warranty period.  They just don't last on 
these cars.

I've seen many people asking about alternate crash bolts in order to increase 
camber even more.  Kinda seems silly to even consider when the stock rubber 
bushings are still installed.

"I got a great deal on this here cart!  Now where the hell did that horse go?"

Kip Anderson  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
91 MR2 Turbo    _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
kca@interserv.com _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso   _|  _|  _|  _|

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 11:39 NZST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz (Lingo Computer Systems Limited)
Subject: Is my Catalytic Converter a useless heap of junk?

...Apart from the fact that it's strangling my emissions and creating a
not-happy exhaust throughput, the Grolier MM Encyclopaedia has this to say:

"A catalytic converter is a device in the EXHAUST SYSTEM of an automotive
engine that converts environmentally harmful exhaust gases into harmless
gases by promoting a chemical reaction between a CATALYST and the
pollutants. Catalysts are substances that speed or slow a chemical reaction
between other substances, without themselves being consumed. Depending on
the type of catalyst (oxidation, reduction, or dual), the catalytic
converter decreases the emission of hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide, of
nitrogen oxide, or of all three. A dual-catalyst system consists of an
oxidation catalyst (for hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide) and a reduction
catalyst (for the oxides of nitrogen)."

"In the most common type of catalytic converter, the exhaust gases are
passed through a bed, or honeycomb, of small beads coated with the catalysts
platinum and palladium. When the converter is heated and extra air is pumped
into it by an air pump, contact with the catalysts causes the hydrocarbons
and the carbon monoxide to be converted into harmless carbon dioxide and
water. The reduction catalyst in the nitrogen oxide converter reduces the
nitrogen oxides by splitting the nitrogen from the oxygen so that nitrogen
gas, carbon dioxide, and water are formed. In an automobile equipped with a
catalytic converter, lead-free gasoline must be used in order to prevent
coating the catalyst with lead."

...Righto.  My Celica GTR has been running on lead-based 96 Octane fuel for
the past six months or so - unleaded high octane only became available over
here recently, and it's been in the country since December of last year.

I'm planning to rip out the catalytic convertor anyway - but my thinking is
that because it's been running on lead based fuel for five months or so,
wouldn't the inside of the cat be all clogged up with lead anyway?

...What a bloody waste of time and engine power :)

Input, as always, appreciated.  Thanks!

        ...Richard Parry

--
                      LCS (Lingo Computer Systems) Limited
 Tel: +64-4-473 9379, Fax: +64-4-499 4984, E-mail: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz
                            "We Speak Your Language"

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From: gettlerj@hanscom.af.mil
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 8:02:32 EDT
To: 
Subject: MR2 Brakes

OK... I have another question for ya...

My 1993 MR2 N/A brakes are... well... really poor.  I would like to upgrade my 
brakes and my suspension (after the brakes).  Any suggestions from anyone??  I 
don't know much about the brakes on my car, so any ideas that you have would 
be appreciative (and prices if possible... :-) ).  Thanks,

Jim
'93 Toyota MR2 N/A (I love that car!!!)

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: Just about to get an 18RG
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 07:42:00 PDT

I don't know about anyone else but I think these Toyota engines are pretty 
robust and if you just lost all your water out of a pipe or something and 
managed to stop the engine when the engine warning light came on I don't think 
you will have too much to worry about (worth keeping an eye on though).

In my Corolla GT-S, on the way to work a couple of years ago, it was in the 
winter and was sub zero temperatures, my water froze and split a pipe. I lost 
all my water . I still managed to drive all the way to work (on and off) and 
never had any trouble with the engine. I sold the car with 107k miles on the 
clock, (107k, it's just opening up!) to buy an MR2.

If you were getting water going through the engine that is a bit more serious. 
But I certainly didn't have any problems when I lost all my water.

I should imagine if the 18R is anything like the 4AGE you'll just need to 
replace the faulty pipe and hey presto hunky dory again. Unless of course you 
want it to be dead so you can get a nice new 4AGE.

Toodleoo for now!

===============================================================================

>Well coming along the highway my 18R started blowing smoke getting real hot
>and losing all it's water. A real big bummer because we just replaced the
>timing chain AND I have only had the car for 3 weeks. Oh well. My mechanic
>said that because the engine got so hot it may have warped the head!!!! And
>the rings may have expanded so much becasue of the heat that they might have
>stuffed the bores. So now I am going to get my twin cam. I know that Justen
>has an enginebut I don't have that sort of money right now and I sort of
>need it in the next week because I need my car for work. Is there any thing
>I should look out for when I am looking around. Oh well wish me luck. See
>you all round.

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	105000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 11:33:46 -0400 (EDT)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Bruce Crawford 
Subject: Gotta go for a while

Regrettably, I have to leave the list for a while. My wife just got
diagnosed with cancer and it will be taking up the bulk of my time. Anyone
looking for info I owe them or are interested in the MK1 project I have been
working on, e-mail me privately.

Good luck guys, and thanks for all the help I've received!

Later,

Bruce Crawford...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net
'79 ITA         '83 GSL (w/13B)           '89 MR2 n/a

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 11:14:00 -0700
Subject: Re: MR2 Brakes
To: gettlerj@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

On Wed, 10 Jul 96, gettlerj@hanscom.af.mil wrote:

>My 1993 MR2 N/A brakes are... well... really poor.  I would like to upgrade my 
>brakes and my suspension (after the brakes).  Any suggestions from anyone??  I 
>don't know much about the brakes on my car, so any ideas that you have would 
>be appreciative (and prices if possible... :-) ).  Thanks,

You may find it easier and more effective to just route in some effective 
cooling ducts.  A good airflow can do wonders for minimizing fade and glazing.

Kip Anderson  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
91 MR2 Turbo    _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
kca@interserv.com _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso   _|  _|  _|  _|

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From: "Dysart, Glenn B." 
To: Toyota Mods 
Subject: RE: Nipondenso vs. Bosche vs. NGK plugs...
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 12:20:00 PDT

All I can say is that I used the Bosche Platinum's in my fathers 4Runner and 
it ran like crap!  It missed and had a rough idle.  I switched them out with 
NGKs and the problem was gone.  And this has been my experience with all the 
Toyota' my family has owned (about 10).  Either run ND or NGK and nothing 
else if you want it to run properly.  BTW NGK is made in the USA for those 
that didn't know.

And finally some posted the below info on one of the Toyota lists awhile ago 
so I have added it to my phone book.  You might want to buy yours here.  I 
haven't ordered from these people yet, but I will!

Imparts
(800) 325-9043
Sellers of Nippendenso Platinum Plugs for around $4

Glenn Dysart
dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil

93 MR2 turbo
87 Corolla SR5
 ----------

>OK all, Which is better?
>...and why are NIP's soooooo expensive compared to Bosche???

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To: Toyota-mods 
From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus
Date: 10 Jul 96 15:52:03 EDT
Subject: Re: MR2 Brakes

Okay, I've got to provide a response to this one.

Jim, I have to ask, what's the issue with the stock brake arrangement?  Most 
generally, stopping a car involves three areas.  1. Dissipating heat between 
rotors and pads or drums and shoes; 2. Dissipating heat between the tire and 
the road; 3. Improving modulation and bias to allow proper control.  I've found 
that the stock brake setup of most cars is sufficient for the road, and 
autocross, but never, with few exceptions, sufficient for track.  Fade is the 
biggest problem--push the pedal harder and the car doesn't stop any more 
quickly.

Can you lock up the wheels repeatedly from, say, a speed of 50mph?  If you can, 
things are working just fine.  If you can't then there're some things you'll 
need to do.  First thing to do is to make sure the brake fluid is new.  Unless 
you're on the track a lot, what kind of brake fluid you use isn't as big an 
issue as that's it's kept fresh.

If the car still can't pass the test, the next thing to do change to a 
different brake pad material.  You just need a pad compound that will maintain 
a coefficient of friction suitable to the temperature range of your 
application.  What this compound is is up to you.  For the first generation 
MR2's, TRD would often recommend a metallic compound for the front, and an 
organic compound for the rear.  This was a way to effect the braking bias of 
the car without having a proper bias adjustment available.

If the car is still having trouble, you've got to do something to dissipate 
more heat.  Kip's suggestion of more airflow is an excellent one.  If this 
still isn't enough (at this point, if you aren't road racing, then what are you 
doing with the car that this wouldn't be enough?), then larger rotors and 
larger pad area is required, and all of this also likely combined with all the 
above.  This is where the big money, and often some engineering, comes in.  You 
can opt for really neat carbon rotors, or a nice multi-piece set up that uses 
an aluminum bell, or hat, bolted to a large, vented rotor.  Add a set of 
Wilwood, Brembo, or AP billet aluminum calipers, and you have more braking than 
you'll ever use.  In fact, the brakes will work so well at high temperatures 
that they won't work at all below several hundred degrees Fahrenheit, and 
you'll probably end up simply polishing the rotors and pads to a lovely mirror 
glaze.

And don't forget the role of tires in this.  Big brakes can easily overcome the 
grip available with mere mortal road tires.  Push down the brake pedal and the 
wheels just lock up.  If you're looking to shorten your braking distances, 
tires are it.

I just sold my SC MR2 to a driving instructor here in the New England area.  He 
does high speed instruction, and road racing with one of the more active local 
clubs in high-speed road racing activities.  He relayed the story to me of once 
having to use stock Toyota pads in his '85 MR2.  For the road, the brakes 
worked great; he never found their limits.  But he quickly discovered how 
inadequate the stock pads were for track use.  The brakes faded after the first 
lap so that he simply couldn't continue to run the event.  He was sidelined.
But, on stock rotors and calipers on a stock '85 MR2, with the addition of a 
high-temperature pad, the brakes on the car were adequate for high-speed road 
racing.

So what's up the brakes you your car?

- Steven

	kca @ interserv.com 
07/10/96 11:14 AM
To: gettlerj @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET, Toyota-mods @ 
cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET
cc:  (bcc: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus)
Subject: Re: MR2 Brakes

On Wed, 10 Jul 96, gettlerj@hanscom.af.mil wrote:

>My 1993 MR2 N/A brakes are... well... really poor.  I would like to upgrade my 
>brakes and my suspension (after the brakes).  Any suggestions from anyone??  I 
>don't know much about the brakes on my car, so any ideas that you have would 
>be appreciative (and prices if possible... :-) ).  Thanks,

You may find it easier and more effective to just route in some effective 
cooling ducts.  A good airflow can do wonders for minimizing fade and glazing.

Kip Anderson  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
91 MR2 Turbo    _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
kca@interserv.com _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso   _|  _|  _|  _|

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 08:25:12 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Export Toyotus 7!

I have done some sniffing around - Neil Fraser is away until next week but
his right hand man Steve said yesterday that he believes they would only be
interested in sales via an agent with guaranteed initial sales. I would
assume they would only export finished cars, as they do to Aussie and Japan.
Steve thought building left hand drive a bit hard...

Barry Leitch on the other hand was very approachable and said they already
have one in the US and are very close to Aussie ADR compliance (a car is
being audited at present). Barry maintains that building a left hand drive
one was easy, and I guess having done it once he has it well sussed. 

Don't get me wrong, I am not putting down Frasers, merely repeating what I
was told. I will always remain impartial and not say one is better than the
other. Truth is that Frasers outsell Leitches by 5 or 10 to one, however
Leitch builds all manner of things as well as doing restorations, Fraser
only builds sevens. 

I was living in Auckland when I built my Leitch - it is about 1000 miles
from Invercargill (where Barry is) which is also on a different island, and
I still managed to build a car from a kit! The key is getting all the bits
you need at the start, which isn't hard if you plan properly.

Ask Adrienne what a Fraser kit costs - leap in here pleasse! Last I knew
Leitch basic kit was $NZ 6000 + GST = about $4590 US.(at $1NZ = 0.68 US)
The basic kit differs quite a bit between Fraser and Leitch, so a direct
comparison is not that accurate. In 1992 for $12500 NZ I received:
Spaceframe, attached alloy panels, fibreglass nose/guards, suspension arms,
springs/shocks, full trim (leather bucket seats, roof, doors, full tonneau,
carpet throughout), fuel tank, mods to steering rack, uprights and rear
axle; shortening of 16V manifold to fit below bonnet, headlight bowls, tail
lights (genuine lotus), spare wheel mount, grill, fitted windscreen,
steering wheel, column extension, engine/gearbox mounts, roll bar, sway bar
& mounts, seatbelts and probably a couple of other minor bits I can't
remember! They can supply to any stage.

To this I added another $9000 NZ to finish the car and get it on the road,
ie for about $NZ 22k. I did everything myself except exhaust, wheel
alignment and brake disc machining (and had never built a car before) in
three months. I did get very lucky when buying motor, gearbox etc - $550. I
do maintain that to do it again and to incorporate both the changes I have
made and make the most of current evolution it would cost about $30k to do
now (fully inboard suspension, independent rear, 20 valve etc). 

Hope this helps. NZ is one time zone, 12 hours ahead of GMT (London).

Addresses:

Barry Leitch
Leitch Industries
McIvor Road
No. 6 Rural Delivery
Invercargill
NEW ZEALAND
64-3-2159791

Neil Fraser
Fraser Cars
PO Box 34-610
Auckland 10
NEW ZEALAND
64-9-4820071
Mobile 64-25-956286

Phil Bradshaw
NZ 7 export agency!

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From: "Dysart, Glenn B." 
To: Toyota Mods 
Subject: Re: MR2 Brakes
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 15:13:00 PDT

I'm just curious what you mean by really poor?  If I remember correctly the 
NA's have the same brakes as the turbos.  They stop from 60 MPH in 107 feet! 
 The only car I know that beats it in stock form is the brand new 911 turbo 
which stops in 99 feet.  Are you sure you don't have something wrong with 
your braking system?  My 93 turbo stops on a dime!  And if the brakes are 
the same as the turbo they have cooling ducts from the factory.

Glenn Dysart
dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil

93 MR2 turbo
87 Corolla SR5
 ----------

>My 1993 MR2 N/A brakes are... well... really poor.  I would like to upgrade
>my brakes and my suspension (after the brakes).  Any suggestions from 
anyone??

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Date: 10 Jul 1996 22:08:22 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: 3S-GE (III) Engine
To: "David Scott" ,

 Reply to:     RE>3S-GE (III) Engine

I sent David Scott a note asking for information on the recent, high output, 
normally aspirated 3SG engines.  He sent me a VERY interesting reply, that I 
thought I should post to the group.

Among other things, Dave reported (see below) that the included valve angle 
and port shapes have changed, and the shims are now under the tappets! 

OK, 3SG experts, what do you make of all this?  For example, does the shim 
under the tappet design allow for any more flexibility in utilizing a reground 
camshaft, vs buying new cam blank$?  And what limits revs to 7300? Can 
valve float cause the shims to get loose and pop out?
Erik
------------------------------
Date: 7/9/96 6:48 AM
To: Berg, Erik
From: David Scott

>Dave, I've been hoping I would run across someone on the web, having
>direct experience with the third generation normally aspirated 3SG.
>Especially someone like yourself, with considerable gearhead tendencies.

>I've had difficulty so far getting detailed specs on this engine.  It is not 
>used in any US market Toyotas.  Do you have any of the following 
>information, or know of good ways to find it:

>1)  Compression ratio?
>2)  Valve sizes?
>3)  Camshaft lift and duration?
>4)  Does it come with a forged crankshaft?
>5)  Does it use distributorless ignition?
>Erik

Erik,

Back in late '93 we were given a talk by Peter Evans, the chief engineer for
imported vehicles at Toyota Australia.   It included a lot of info on the new, 
3rd generation, 3S-GE engine. 

From what I recall from the talk by Peter, there were many detail changes
between each of the engine generations.  For example, the ports and valves
have many small changes on the 3rd generation engine (angle, port shape
etc.).  The 3S-GE (III) even goes back to "bucket over shim" like the old
2T-G engine.  (Rather than the shim sitting in a recess in the top of the
bucket, it sits under the bucket - directly on top of the valve.  This
allows a higher lift and higher revs, although the engine is still limited
to 7300, without risk of spitting a shim out.)

Dave Scott

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To: Erik Berg 
From: David Scott 
Subject: 3S-GE (III) Engine

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 01:47:24 -0500 (CDT)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: fjo@escape.ca (Fred Oberbuchner)
Subject: Any modders around Orlando, FL, USA next week?

You guessed it!
I will be in Orlando, FL, USA next week and would be interested in getting
together with any T-Modders interested in colliding for a beer/coke/coffee
and swapping TM stories/etc.

Drop me an email before Sunday if interested!

Regards,
Fred
(fjo@escape.ca)

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From: Shiro20@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 08:56:41 -0400
To: fjo@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Any modders around Orlando, FL, USA next week?

Are there any MR2 owners in the Spokane WA area?  I'll be moving out there in

two weeks.

Richard Rainaldo
92' MKII turbo

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 16:23 NZST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz (Lingo Computer Systems Limited)
Subject: Re: Toyota CD roms/Manuals

Hey Brian;

>Better yet, - has anyone found a dealer who would be willing to part with the 
>outdated CD's for a small fee??? Mabye they could even find their way on to
the 
>net then!

I'm going to have a chat to Rutherford and Bond Toyota - apparently
Wellington's, if not NZ's, largest Toyota people - about all sorts of stuff
on Saturday (like ripping out my catalytic convertor).

I'll ask these guys about the CD-ROMs in their parts department.  And I'll
ask 'em if they've got the outdated CDs available.  It never hurts to ask,
right?

Anyway, List, I'll keep you all posted.  Watch this space.

Later!

        ...Richard

--
                      LCS (Lingo Computer Systems) Limited
 Tel: +64-4-473 9379, Fax: +64-4-499 4984, E-mail: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz
                            "We Speak Your Language"

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 12:04:25 -0400
From: "BETH C. WILLIAMS" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Our next project

Ok, everybody!

Our next big project will be to install an aftermarket turbo on my 85 
4x4.  (22RE already modified engine).  Jeff has gotten the turbo itself, 
and is now in search of an intercooler that will work and the other 
goodies he will need.  Has anyone out there ever done anything like 
this???  If so, problems to look for/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!!

P.S.  Hey Chris, did you survive Bertha down there?  It looks like it's 
headed our way!

Beth C. Williams 
Automated Degree Audit Specialist
Office of the University Registrar
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill		
105 Hanes Hall; CB# 2100
Chapel Hill, NC  27599-2100
Phone: (919) 962-0495
e-Mail: edc.our@mhs.unc.edu

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 16:21:52 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota CD roms/Manuals

Guys,
I know you want those CD's but they are copyright and are not the dealers
property to give. In Australia you must give them back when you get a new
one. The DOS version WILL not work on your generic CD ROM drives, they are
hard coded to a special Hitachi CDROM format that needs a special card.
The OS/2 version can be made to be used with any CD ROM, so will the
new Win 95. The code that runs the ROMS (available on diskette) is also
not public domain. TMC Japan regards the roms has their property, I feel
an attempt to extract the diagrams for the net without TMC approval will
meet with a swift legal response. The EPC code supports printing, you can
ask the dealer to print the pictures of anything you are interested in.
I may post some of the images in the future of the VVT if I can get TMCA
to approve.
Bruce

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 20:25:02 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: tvis

Hey, not to sound stupid........ but here it goes...
what the hell does the  TVIS mean on the intake Manifold of my Mr2 87 n/a ???
and how does it work..
thanks..
chris green
greencg@gate.net
 

87 mr2
87 Vw 16v
95 ford
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net
hklj21a@prodigy.com

 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
BF
"mmmmmmmm.......Doughnut........"
HS
" The secret to a good life , Is knowing when your through "
William " Duke " Divens     R.I.P. 12-12-96

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 17:45:11 -0700
To: toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Richard Ngun 
Subject: A/C for 1990 Celica GTS
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Does anyone know where I can go get an after market A/C unit installed in my
1990 Celica GTS?  I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Toyota said they only do installs in the newest style Celica's.
                        oOOOo 
                       | O o |  "Mistakes? Impossible!  I
                        \ ' /    have an error correcting
                        /   \    modem!"
                     oOO     OOo
                    V A N C O U V E R  C A N U C K S ' 9 6

                        .-=[ rngun@intergate.bc.ca ]=-.

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: tvis
To: greencg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 22:47:35 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Hey, not to sound stupid........ but here it goes...
> what the hell does the  TVIS mean on the intake Manifold of my Mr2 87 n/a ???
> and how does it work..
> thanks..
> chris green
> greencg@gate.net
>

Chris,
	TVIS stands for Toyota Variable Induction System.  (Some say the I
can also stand for Injection). 
	Basically, below 4350 rpm, the intake ports are half closed to 
increase low end power.  Above 4350, the butterfly valves of the tvis system
open up to allow full air intake through all of the ports for the best
mid-high power. 
	As you probably know, you can feel and hear these ports open at this
rpm under full throttle, and to quote Car and Driver from February 1985, 
"...an extra allotment of horsepower starts to tickle your backside." :)

				I hope I've answered your question,

				Aly
				'85 MR2, Red with all options
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 23:43:25 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: road trip story..Key West to G-Vill.

       Well,I have been lurking on this list for a while, as I feel that I
still have more to learn than to Contribute. But I just returned from a road
trip to my Parents house Near Gainsville. This trip seems to be about
600-620 miles each way.I have made this trip Before in VW's, but never in my
Mr2. Now i know why. My Vw's timing belt broke 5,000 miles after being
changed by yours Truly.The only car available was my newest acquisition...
the Mister two.....only driven 10 miles to my house.always wanted one.
I am 6'00' and 210 lbs. what am I doing in this roller skate???
0300 leave Key West...Clear road, Hammer down.
SLOW DOWN FOR BIG PINE KEY.. this is a wild life sanctuary and the Police
have NO sense of humor 35 at night and they mean it.had to turn off the
Escort passive countermeasure.
leave the keys, get on Chrome ave head north..this road says " c'mon   lets
see what this puppy will do " It will do an Indicated  132.
Then The Florida Autobahn....I mean Turnpike...Average speed 95..
the first 4 hrs that it took to clear the Metro Miami area were fine, I was
to busy navigating and dodging crashes to be uncomfortable, but soon after I
had to stop every 2 hrs or so to unfold.
I-95 was great, Big Benzes at 100+, busy looking professionals enroute to a
power coffee pre-breakfast meeting with like minded people. these people
soak up troopers like a sponge.
North of Daytona.left turn Clyde...Hwy 100..this gets my vote for most fun
road in Florida..I actually passed a traffic enforcement unit at 120   he
looked at me, looked at his radar gun ,and realized that his Chevy Celebrity
would not suffice and he pulled back into his Duck Blind to await a less
fleet footed  vicitm.
Hwy 100 all the way to moms house, then dirt roads to the ole'homestead.I
love the dirt roads.slide left, slide right, smooth as glass...cow...'nuther
cow...you might be a redneck if......

A few General observations:
1. At 125 I was a little afraid that the crankshaft was gonna spear me at
any moment.
2. the louder the music the faster I go..
3. there is no road noise that cannot be covered by GreenDay.
4. I don't own a Madonna Cd,    sorrrrrry.  :>
5. Adrenalin factor is directly proportional to yaw rate.
6. this is not a car for 2 people to take a long road trip in. you will not
be Buddies    anymore.Thank god for Greyhound.
7. I will never, never , never get rid of this car. They  can have my mr2,
when they pry    it from around my cold, dead body.
8. If I wasn't  a cop, I wouldn't have a license anymore :> 
9. To  Much zz top on a rod trip will lead your copilot to " lose " the cd
at the Waffle    House.
10.T-tops are for wimps...ScotchGuard is your friend.
11.minnnnh coise..huh...can't here ya...hiinn koysee...can't hear ya for the
WIND NOISE..

In short.....love the car, any one got any suggestions for where to cut the
pipe to install the supertrapp? looks like right after the longituidinal
flex pipe to me.
Till next time..
Drive Safely..
greencg@gate.net

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 23:56:43 -0400
From: Trevor Boicey 
To: Richard Ngun 
Cc: toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: A/C for 1990 Celica GTS

Richard Ngun wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know where I can go get an after market A/C unit installed in my
> 1990 Celica GTS?  I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada.
> 
> Toyota said they only do installs in the newest style Celica's.

  I pursued this avenue here in Ottawa for my 1992 Celica GT. Same
system
as yours if you have the same 2.2L engine.

  My local dealer offered to do it for $2200CDN. With a bit of calling
around,
I found a place (Rad Runner) that had an enormous impressive facility
and
offered to do it for $1795CDN with a 3 year warranty.

  I snooped around a little more. I located a 1991 Celica in a local
junkyard
that had A/C. I removed all the parts and borrowed them, trying to sort
them out. I also took them to Rad Runner again and had them evaluate the
parts.

  They probably would have installed them for around $700-800 but
recommended
against it because of the age of the parts and the unreliability of old
air conditioning in general.

  I considered installing it myself, but couldn't get a good enough
manual
to go by. I still might do it if I get a good step-by-step, but I cannot
find one. I was also unable to locate a friendly Celica like mine to
check what the system looks like installed. There are a LOT of parts,
it would not be easy to wing it unless you've done this before.

  The system is a lot more complex than I expected, probably because
my last exposure to A/C was a much older system. The Celica has a few
emissions parts that are A/C specific, as well as an "amplifier" which
apparently interfaces to the engine electronics and provides control
over the air conditioning units.

  I still have all the parts in my trunk, give or take a wire or two.
But at
this stage I am thinking of abandoning this plan.

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 23:19:32 PDT
From: leonard tay 
Subject: me/mine/mods
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Name: Leonard Tay lea-an
Location: Singapore
Model:ST185R Carlos Sainz limited edition Celica GT4
Engine:3S-GTE
Mods:hybrid turbo,3.25" race spec exhaust,PRofec,super AFC, fuel cut 
defencer,1.6mm head gasket,TRD engine mounts,Eibach springs,HKS peak hold 
boost gauge,cheetah high tension cables,HKS super power flow air 
intake,stainless steel radiator hoses,momo steering wheel,16"topy rims,wheel 
spacers,quick shift,extra fuel pump,extra sub injector.
email:having some sensor problems at the moment.....but should be sorted out 
pretty soon. Intend to change rear LSD,con rods crankshaft,pistons maybe...
tayla@singnet.com.sg
-------------------------------------
Name: leonard tay
E-mail: tayla
Date: 07/03/96
Time: 09:39:17

This message was sent by Chameleon 
-------------------------------------

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 06:42:27 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: "Christopher P. Myer" 
Subject: Spring Info!

Well, I got all caught up on my email and now I'm way behind again.
I wanted to share some info about springs.  I've decided that there
is some phenomenally bad information going around about these, and
I'm not in much of a position to shed any brilliance, but I'll make
some comments and share what I've learned.

Recently, one of my customers asked if I could recommend a good 
progressive spring to replace the linear springs that they'd been
using on their race car.  (FWIW, these guys are road-racing Mitsubishi's
and Hyundai's in Korea.)  I asked my spring supplier if he could give
me some idea of what to recommend, and he said "Call Roland."
Roland works for H&R (or Neuspeed, or some combination) and is God's
gift to the spring world.  What makes it even better is that he 
_loves_ to talk about springs, eagerly took my call, and answered my
questions with great enthusiasm.

First, let's state my going-in knowledge about springs, both right and
wrong.  I'm experienced enough to know that you must match your springs
_and_ shocks to driving surface.  In general, the faster you go and
the smoother the surface, the harder a spring you can run.  If you
watch those off-road truck races (ala Ironman Ivan Stewart!) you'll
see that their suspension is absolutely MUSHY!  They go off those
jumps and the wheels just fall away from the body as if nothing were
there to stop them, then when the come down the whole body slowly 
mushes all the way down on top of the wheels until the very soft
suspension stops and the slowly reverses the descent.  That I knew.
My misinformation was about the desireability of linear vs. progressive
springs.  Since all of the racing that I've been associated with has
been on linear springs, I figured that progressive springs were
basically for folks that wanted to be able to have a nice soft ride
around town and still have some stiffness to their suspension when
pushed.  In other words, I thought that progressive springs were a
compromise between performance and streetability.

Turns out that I was wrong.  A linear spring can only be tuned to
perform optimumly for a very narrow range of speeds and surfaces.  In
other words, if you're road racing, you're going to either have to
get the car hooked up on that tight, bumpy chicane and suffer on that
long sweeper, or vice versa.  A properly designed progressive system
will allow the car to work well for both surfaces.

Now, you all know what I mean when I say a progressive spring setup,
right?  A single spring that has a different number of coils per inch
at different parts of the spring.  Well, that's what I thought, but
I was only halfway right.  That is one kind of progressive setup, but
Roland taught me about a different setup that is much better for being
able to dynamically tune the car to different tracks and conditions.
If you use _multiple_ springs per corner, one stacked on the other,
you get the exact same effect, and anyone can figure out that this 
sort of setup will allow you to quickly and inexpensively dial in
a new rate by simply swapping individual springs.  For example, on
the front you may use a 6" long 400# spring with a 3.25" long 115#
spring stacked on top, such as Roland likes to use on a VW front
suspension.

After this sinks in for a second, you quickly realize that you're going
to need to know a little math to figure out what spring rate this
give you.  Well, when Roland gave me the equation, I immediately 
recognized it--it's the exact same one you use to figure out the
resistance of two loads in parallel in an electrical circuit!

WT1 x wt2
---------
WT1 + wt2

If we use the earlier example, where WT1 = 400 # and wt2 = 115 #, 
we get 46,000 / 515, or about 89#.  Obviously, this is true only to
the point at which the smaller, ligher spring collapses.  At that
point, the heavier spring is used by itself, and you suddenly have
400# for the rest of the range.  In the case of the VW that Roland
referred to, he said that if you even put a second person in the
car it would collapse the light spring completely, making it worthless.
This was strictly a racing setup, giving the driver a nice, soft
suspension to hold the wheels on the road during the slow, bumpy
portions of the course, but still giving a firm ride on those
long sweepers.

Obviously I'm a long way from being a guru on this subject, but I
wanted to share this info.  I hope that this will prompt some of you
spring guru's out there to speak up and share their knowledge.  BTW,
if you want to call Roland and talk about your setup, his number is
805-388-8111.

Chris

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 06:50:25 -0500
To: greencg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: road trip story..Key West to G-Vill.

>       Well,I have been lurking on this list for a while, as I feel that I
>still have more to learn than to Contribute. But I just returned from a road
>trip to my Parents house Near Gainsville. This trip seems to be about
>600-620 miles each way.I have made this trip Before in VW's, but never in my
>Mr2. Now i know why. My Vw's timing belt broke 5,000 miles after being
>changed by yours Truly.The only car available was my newest acquisition...
>the Mister two.....only driven 10 miles to my house.always wanted one.
>I am 6'00' and 210 lbs. what am I doing in this roller skate???

My best friend, and best man at my wedding, is 6'8" and about 260-270lb
(depending on whether or not he's had breakfast). Too bad UF put that ban
on walk-ons for their football squad during the mid-80's - he would have
made a nasty linesman. The only MR2 he's ever *driven* was an 88SC auto -
his feet are in front of the clutch on a manual.:) But he likes riding
around on the right side.

>0300 leave Key West...Clear road, Hammer down.
>SLOW DOWN FOR BIG PINE KEY.. this is a wild life sanctuary and the Police
>have NO sense of humor 35 at night and they mean it.had to turn off the
>Escort passive countermeasure.
>leave the keys, get on Chrome ave head north..this road says " c'mon   lets
>see what this puppy will do " It will do an Indicated  132.

You need your speedometer calibrated, or more probably your rear tires
matched to oem sizes. Max in Europe was the magic 200kpm (124mh). I think
the American version lost a few mph because of power consumption and weight
from emmisions control. Figure 121-122mph max. Anybody now the *true*
calibrated max speed on a Mk I? Stock gears guys, no TwinCharger mods! :-)

>Then The Florida Autobahn....I mean Turnpike...Average speed 95..
>the first 4 hrs that it took to clear the Metro Miami area were fine, I was
>to busy navigating and dodging crashes to be uncomfortable, but soon after I
>had to stop every 2 hrs or so to unfold.

Main Street Florida. Too bad you didn't take it straight to Wildwood. That
'next exit 52 miles' section is a hoot, just dying for autobahn speeds.
That's right - 52 miles between exits, which at one time had a speed limit
of 55. But last I remember, about 2-3 years ago, they were widening the
bridges along the 2-lane section north of Ft Pierce. They did lane-shifts
at every bridge (the fun ones with palm trees in the medium, 'welcome to
Florida'), which led to great slalooming at 75mph or so. So I guess you got
off at Golden Glades (or more probably I-575).

>I-95 was great, Big Benzes at 100+, busy looking professionals enroute to a
>power coffee pre-breakfast meeting with like minded people. these people
>soak up troopers like a sponge.

Welcome to Boca Raton. It's wierd to hop through Miami, and see all of the
junkers, then hit Boca around Palmetto (actually, you can hit it around
Hillsboro Blvd, from the Royal Palm Country Club crowd cutting through
Deerfield to go I-95/south), and see all of the best automobiles in the
world.  Same with Southern Blvd around Palm Beach. But yes, those FHP
Mustangs love to chaulk up those high priced sports card  - 'hey Bob, got
myself 3 Mercedes and a Ferrari today - hot darn!'. Boca Raton, Fl - the
only place in the world were I've seen 2 Ferrari Mondial Convertibles (same
year and color) follow each other over a bridge (Camino Real Bridge, guess
you weren't exlusive enough, eh?), and 3 SL600s in the same city block.
Decadence - it's not just a job, it's an adventure.

Next time, take the Extensions, and get off early, somewhere around South
Miami, then hop over to I-95. Then take the Golden Glades flyover - the
$20million blunder. The elevation is worth the trip.

>North of Daytona.left turn Clyde...Hwy 100..this gets my vote for most fun
>road in Florida..I actually passed a traffic enforcement unit at 120   he
>looked at me, looked at his radar gun ,and realized that his Chevy Celebrity
>would not suffice and he pulled back into his Duck Blind to await a less
>fleet footed  vicitm.

Again, I'm really suprised you didn't take the Turnpike north all the way.
But from one end to the other, it used to be about $15, and a real
sleep-generator. As intersting as the real autobahn, without the speed
capability. BTW, the most fun road is Hwy 520(?) - The Bloody 520 - at
4:00am, between Melbourne and Orlando. For that E-ticket ride, bring that
gallon of coffee and fog-resistant night-scope glasses - you'll need both!
About 20 miles of 'deer caught in the headlights' look on your face!

>Hwy 100 all the way to moms house, then dirt roads to the ole'homestead.I
>love the dirt roads.slide left, slide right, smooth as glass...cow...'nuther
>cow...you might be a redneck if......

My father lives off of Southern Blvd west of West Palm Beach (1 mile east
of Lion Country Safari, for those who remember), down a 5 mile dirt road
named Flying Cow Road (no lie). Florida has the best dirt roads - flat, no
rocks, just enough traction for safe driving, just enough lack of traction
for fun. I used to do laps of his general area, 4-wheel drifts, threshhold
braking, etc, every time I visited him. A real trip in an MR2.

>A few General observations:
>1. At 125 I was a little afraid that the crankshaft was gonna spear me at
>any moment.

I'd be more afraid of the pistons expanding, scraping the crap out of the
cylinder walls, and ruining your compression.

>2. the louder the music the faster I go..

Not with the stock radio you don't. :)

>3. there is no road noise that cannot be covered by GreenDay.
>4. I don't own a Madonna Cd,    sorrrrrry.  :>
>5. Adrenalin factor is directly proportional to yaw rate.

I've only heard of one flipped MR2, and that was just this year. Happiness
is a spinning MR2.

>6. this is not a car for 2 people to take a long road trip in. you will not
>be Buddies    anymore.Thank god for Greyhound.
>7. I will never, never , never get rid of this car. They  can have my mr2,
>when they pry    it from around my cold, dead body.
>8. If I wasn't  a cop, I wouldn't have a license anymore :>

Phychologists say that jealousy is actually a form of anger. I'm very
jealous, especially now living one state north of Ohio.

>9. To  Much zz top on a rod trip will lead your copilot to " lose " the cd
>at the Waffle    House.

That's why I bought a cd-rom burner. :)

>10.T-tops are for wimps...ScotchGuard is your friend.
>11.minnnnh coise..huh...can't here ya...hiinn koysee...can't hear ya for the
>WIND NOISE..
>
>In short.....love the car, any one got any suggestions for where to cut the
>pipe to install the supertrapp? looks like right after the longituidinal
>flex pipe to me.

Sounds good to me.

Thanks for the memories.

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 06:50:51 -0500
To: aly abulkheir ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: tvis

>>
>> Hey, not to sound stupid........ but here it goes...
>> what the hell does the  TVIS mean on the intake Manifold of my Mr2 87 n/a ???
>> and how does it work..
>> thanks..
>> chris green
>> greencg@gate.net
>>
>
>Chris,
>        TVIS stands for Toyota Variable Induction System.  (Some say the I
>can also stand for Injection).
>        Basically, below 4350 rpm, the intake ports are half closed to
>increase low end power.  Above 4350, the butterfly valves of the tvis system
>open up to allow full air intake through all of the ports for the best
>mid-high power.
>        As you probably know, you can feel and hear these ports open at this
>rpm under full throttle, and to quote Car and Driver from February 1985,
>"...an extra allotment of horsepower starts to tickle your backside." :)
>
>                                I hope I've answered your question,
>
>                                Aly

I thought it was 3750?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 13:56 NZST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz (Lingo Computer Systems Limited)
Subject: What's the diff?

Anyone know the layman's difference between the Celica GT, GT-R, and GT-S?
They all look the same, but I'm blowed if I know what the engines are in all
three.

I've got the '86 GT-R, and it's a wonder - a handling dream.  Almost as good
as the MR2, even - but with the front wheel drive, I find that it doesn't
have the same power flow for traction (I find myself skipping a lot when
going around corners with power, driving in the wet - and sometimes just
powering through 1st and 2nd).  It *should* be almost as powerful as the n/a
1990+ MR2, with the 2.0l 3SGE engine.

However!  Which is the better car, in terms of performance?  Why did Toyota
make all three different models, but put them in the same box?  They all
look the same :)

Thanks all, from the newbie in NZ.

        ...Richard

--
                      LCS (Lingo Computer Systems) Limited
 Tel: +64-4-473 9379, Fax: +64-4-499 4984, E-mail: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz
                            "We Speak Your Language"

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 23:04:27 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: road trip story..Key West to G-Vill.

>My best friend, and best man at my wedding, is 6'8" and about 260-270lb
>(depending on whether or not he's had breakfast).
>
EEK! I know how he feels - I'm 6'7", but only a feather-weight 210lbs. I can
still manage to squeeze into most cars without too much hassle, but I've yet
to be completely comfortable. (And yes, I done the 'driving with my head out
the sunroof' thing, and also the 'remove the front seat and drive from the
back one' trick as well.)

Now do ya know why the nick-name is Billzilla?

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
   "On second thoughts, let us not go to Camelot. 
               It is a silly place"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 12:20:53 -0400
From: Mark Sink 
To: "Christopher P. Myer" 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Spring Info!

Thanks for the info Chris.  I'd like to mention that the new Multi-Pro
Kit from Eibach, which is a height adjustable spring/strut combo, uses
this 2 spring method. A smaller softer spring sits on top of a longer,
firmer spring. (Don't read that sentance twice, it starts to sound
nasty)  If they ever make this kit for a '93 MR2 Turbo, let me know.

Mark

-- 
mail: mailto:msink@imonics.com
home: http://www.webbuild.com/~toy4two/
work: http://www.imonics.com/

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 14:54:40 -0400
From: hcheong@on.bell.ca (Harvey Cheong)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: About Mystelf
Cc: hcheong@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

  Hi, I'm new to the club and have browsed other members topics/issues and
find them very interesting.  I'm Harvey Cheong and live in Toronto/Ontario/Canada, way up north they say.  I'm a Computer Systems Unix Systems Administrator and
have somewhat of a passion for Toyotas.  My baby is a 1985 Celica GT-S hatchback
white in color with the digital instrumentation package.  Power windows/door locks, 8 adjustable recaro type front seats with 4 disk brakes outfitted to 225/60HR14 tires.  I also have a Supra type rear deck spoiler(sun-shade they call it up here).  On the odometer it has 192,000km, is powered by a 22RE engine.

  I've purchased the car since new and have had minor problems with the car,

1) replaced power antennaes twice, after the second Toyota part replacement, I 
   replaced it with an aftermarket (Hirshman) and have not experienced a problem
   with it yet.

2) replaced two mufflers so far, original, aftermarket, now another aftermarket
   one made up here in Canada.  This is a free flow exhaust with 2 1/4 pipe
   behind the catalyc out with a 2 inch long chrome ANSA tip (boy does it sound
   greate and moves quicker)

3) replaced the original air-filter with a K&N and noticed another performance
   improvement on low end performance

4) battery replace twice, now with a Sears Diehard

5) replaced the clutch around 100,000km (this is my first standard car)

6) vandalised to the drivers door keyhole, repaired and repainted

7) rust showing on from windshield trim, sandblasted and repainted the roof
   looks great

8) equipped with a Clifford alarm system after the vandalism incident

9) other than that the entire car is completely original

 The one thing that I can't really seem to get an answer is, can a turbo be
 installed on this engine 22RE.  Because the 1985 Toyota trucks once came
 equipped with a 22RE-T.  HKS and TRD never really answered my question.
 I'm still looking of ways to make the car go just a little faster without
 breaking the piggy bank...

 
*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*

Harvey Cheong

email:  hcheong@on.bell.ca

"IMAGINATION - A Mind Once Stretched By A New Idea, Never Regains 
               Its Original Dimensions" 

*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 21:03:54 -0400
To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon),
From: Chris Hilliard 
Subject: Re: tvis

>I thought it was 3750?

                It depends on if you're holding your mouth right     ;)

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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 21:04:37 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: New Tires!

Hi folks, had to share some excitement!

I arrived home today to find in my driveway my shiny new Yokohama A008Rsii
tires, size 205/55R14.  WHOOHOO!  Man, them's some meats!

I can't wait to get them mounted on my racing wheels and hit the cones (well,
not literally).

Dave A.
daucott@aol.com

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 11:44:47 -0400
From: "ROGERS" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Toyota at Toronto Indy

Did any one on this list take in the Toronto Indy Race? I was there both 
saturday and Sunday, (Formula Atlantic Race , followed by the North American 
touring car race was on saturday. (Featuring the Millen prepared Toyota Avalon 
with the 3SGE)

I have a preliminary web page with some images at

http://www.baseline.net/racing

While I didn't see the actual crash live that killed two people (driver and 
track marshall) I saw the accident unfold on the huge Jumbotron screen erected 
at the pit exit. It is very unfortunate that the Car was one of the TOYOTA 
powered Indy cars. 

Roger Smith

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 20:03:55 +0000
From: Erik Berg 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: erik.berg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Hi there, good people.

I guess I have been delinquent, in not posting my intro message. For 
shame!  Well (sorry about that) here's my info:

Name:		Erik Berg
Location:	Lawndale, California (LA suburb)
Model:		Sheesh... sorry no Toyotas, at present. '64 Lotus Elan.
Engine:		Was: Hart small valve twink; Planned: 3S-GE(III)
Mods(existing):	Spyder tube frame, Hewland LSD in stock (Ford) case
Mods (future):	3S-GE, T50 gearbox, CV 1/2 axles, tubular front
 		suspension wishbones, stiffer springs, narrowed
 		adjustable rear spring perches, adjustable rear a/r
 		bar, Revolution or Panasport wheels, Koni shocks, etc.
Email:		erik.berg@trw.com

My planned 3SG mods:
It will be normally aspirated, but based on parts donated from a 3SGTE 
(III) turbo engine. I will use a "3C's" program (Cam, Compression, 
Computer) including JE or Arias forged pistons, and welded-up then 
reground cams. I'm considering individual throttle injection, using 
either TSW or "dead DCOE" throttle bodies.  I will use either the TEC2, 
or the diy efi mailing list fuel injection computer. I would like to 
get rid of the distributor too, because it would run into the firewall. 
I'll substitute a crank triggered ignition, with individual coils and 
coil driver circuits.

My planned T50 mods:
I will probably use one of the TRD close ratio sets, if they are still 
available.  The 'box will probably need to be modified for length, from 
bellhousing face to shift lever, by reworking the shift linkage, to 
have it directly engage the shift rails some way.

Other cars: '77 Chevy Suburban, '85 Mazda B2000, '90 Mazda Miata
Previous cars: '63 Elan, '67 Elan, '66 Lotus 41 set up as Formula Ford
erik.berg@trw.com

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Sojuz!
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 01:10:45 +0300 (EET DST)

Progress, that is. The only russian word i know, pretty much...

Fuel problems were pushed to a bit higher level by two high-pressure
fuel pumps in parallel. One wasn't enough to keep the regulator working
properly. Now I have 4 liters per minute delivery at 5 bars.
Now, if only the damned injectors would work reliably at elevated
pressures. 3.3 bar differential pressure is what I'm using now,
at 3.4-3.7 bar I would get occasional miss at high speed, sometimes
serious enough to feel like a rev limiter at 5000rpm... Stock differential
pressure is 2.55 bar, but it was in practice only 2.3 bar, so I have
managed to get 20% more fuel delivery to the engine. That allowed me
to up the boost to 1.05 bar (15psi), giving 232hp@5200rpm.
A bit more at lower rpms actually, but that is at a higher pressure
due to spiking (VBC). Will have to try with shorter hoses, 1.45bar
at 4000rpm is and isn't cool (on 5th gear) - over 400Nm but too
damn close to safe limits of the turbo... 

Next: larger compressor and injectors. Any of you other similar injector
hunters had any luck?

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up...
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: Daucott@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 21:36:31 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Toyota at Toronto Indy

In a message dated 96-07-15 21:08:56 EDT, you write:
 
 << While I didn't see the actual crash live that killed two people (driver
and 
  track marshall) I saw the accident unfold on the huge Jumbotron screen
erected 
  at the pit exit. It is very unfortunate that the Car was one of the 
   TOYOTA 
  powered Indy cars.  >>
 
 Screw the car.  I'm sorry it was one of the up and coming race drivers that
got killed, and the unsuspecting track mashall.  Toyota will make more cars
and will win more races, Jeff's wife Tracy will not see Jeff any more.
 
 Just a little perspective.
 
 Dave.

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Date:    Mon, 15 Jul 96 18:54:18 PDT
From: wg%rmats1@riem.com (Wayne R. Graves)
Subject: Anybody know the going price for a California edition 1988 Celica Turbo Altrac...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

 I creamed mine about a month ago, totaled and the insurance people want
to give me about $6500 for it, it had 142k miles on it, althou the engine
only had about 77k miles on it. Thanks for any input.
                                     Wayne
                                      no more hobbie...

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 01:30:49 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net

I have put a pair of Hella 1000 100 wat round driving lights under my front
bumper, with barely enough space to hang My GATORS tag between them.
I just wired the Dual Bosch relays to the Defroster switch and disconnected
the defroster, i don't really need the Defroster down here in the Florida
Keys on a daily basis  :>
works great, and BOY!!! are they long and bright!!!
you can Drive a Beemer Driver with his Brights and fog lights on batty if he
decides not to be polite and Dim :>
reach is a measured 800 yards , and will reflect a standard road reflector
for just over 1.2 miles
hope this helps others...
oh yeah...and it looks mean too!!!!
Greencg@ gate.net
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net
87 Mister 2 n/a  Black
87 Vw Scirocco 16v Silver
horsepower is god, tell everyone.
 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
BF

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 19:27:36 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: re:Driving Lights (had no title)

Chris Green wrote:

>I have put a pair of Hella 1000 100 wat round driving lights under my front
>bumper, with barely enough space to hang My GATORS tag between them.
>I just wired the Dual Bosch relays to the Defroster switch and disconnected
>the defroster, i don't really need the Defroster down here in the Florida
>Keys on a daily basis  :>
>works great, and BOY!!! are they long and bright!!!
>you can Drive a Beemer Driver with his Brights and fog lights on batty if he
>decides not to be polite and Dim :>
>reach is a measured 800 yards , and will reflect a standard road reflector
>for just over 1.2 miles
>hope this helps others...
>oh yeah...and it looks mean too!!!!

Sounds good - I am a big believer in good lights, as I have often driven up
and down NZ for over an hour without dipping - nothing like Aussie outback,
but not bad.

I was running two Lucas halogen 7 1/2 inch headlights on my Leitch
Supersprint Lotus 7 thingy augmented with two Lucas 20/20 driving lights
(not the fog or spot model). The 20/20s are 8 inch - yes, bigger than the
headlights and bi-focal. (I had to take them off 'cos the new tyres didn't
clear them...there really aren't many places to put extra lights on a
seven!) They were way too low for ideal as well, in more of a fog light
position, but still very effective.

Anyway, I was running 100/90 W in the headlights and 100 W in the driving
lights ie 180 W on dip and 400 W on main. On main I would get reflection at
2 miles...and still see around corners to an uncanny degree. I had the same
lights on an English Ford Escort years ago with 2 x 55W foglights as well
(also Lucas) - the foglights were good in fog but for some strange reason
seemed to add little more to main beam with the other driving lights on! I
could easily drive at night wearing sunglasses, which was almost advisable
when encountering new reflectorised signs!

I am about to replace the Lucas main headlight units - one is cracked and I
blew a bulb (after 6 years of heavy use) so have dropped to an old 60/55 I
had lying around. I am contemplating changing to 'Narva' brand headlamps and
130/90 bulbs. Any better suggestions? As I can not fit the driving lights on
the car any more I would like to up the instant sunshine I have on tap. Has
anyone run with dip and main going simultaneousy? I know its illegal but
apparently very effective. Alternatively some of the old escort Rally cars
had twin lamp halogen headlights ie ran two bulbs - are these available
anywhere/ do they make any difference?

BTW little stainless steel turnbuckles used for small sailing dingies etc
make excellent spotlight steadies.

Phil Bradshaw
Leitch Supersprint 20 valve
In the Dark in Palmerston North NZ

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 07:38:41 GMT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Kevin Annfield 
Subject: Injection diagram for 18RGEU

Well i finally got my self an 18RGEU. But now I am having BIG troubles
finding a wiring diagram for the engine. I ask you people two things. One,
Do any of you know what kind of car this engine came out of. And, Do you
know were I would be bale to get a diagram if none of you lovely people have
one. Oh and also, the engine has a YAHAMA 20 VALVE head on the thing (Yes i
have counted them under the tappet cover looks awesome), and supposedly has
only done 30,000 kms. I picked it up with computer and all accserriores
(sorry about the spelling) for $850.

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 20:17:20 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: 3SGE heights

This is from Erik Berg, thought I'd put it out a little wider...

>Hi, all.
>
>Phil wrote (in a Toyota Mods post, about a month ago):
>
>>There are a couple of different models of 3SGE - the grunter is the late
>>model MR2 135 kW one, but I've heard it can't be put into sevens because 
>>the motor is physically too tall.
>
>Hmmmm.  This is a bit mystifying.... and could be really important, for my 
>application.  What would explain a height difference between the early 
>and late 3SGEs? the deck height?  the height of the head (+cam cover)?
>Or, could it be that whoever told Phil this, was speaking of the overall 
>height to the top of the injection plumbing, which could be different on the 
>late engines?
>
>If Toyota changes their engine dimensions, when they do a design 
>update, how do they expect us maniac modifiers to do our parts 
>interchanges, or fit their engines into other people's cars, without us
>getting confused?  (or, perhaps that's what they had in mind?)    :-)  :-)
>erik.berg@trw.com

I have to admit that it all seems a little strange to me. The Frasers I've
seen with this motor on carbies have had the cam covers chopped dowm as
there is a lump that sticks up in one corner that doesn't clear the bonnet.
I find it hard to believe it can't be made to fit after a little surgery.
The engines mount vertically in a seven, yet they lie on a slight angle in
the Toyotas - maybe a slight lean will assist in dropping overall height.

All I have heard about the 3SGE not fitting in 135 kW form is heresay, and
admittedly it is from the same people that gave the 20 valve away as too
hard too - a position they now admit to having been a little hasty on adopting. 

Additionally peter Mejak has added:

>I've never seen the latest generation 3SGE, but apparently it has
>	a different inlet manifold design to the earlier ones -- wraps over
>	the head, instead of "out & up" like the older ones.  Pics of the
>	older style can be found on Matti's WWW page :-

My understanding is that it is engine height and not manifolding that causes
the problem, as the EFI manifolds are normally turfed for carbies.

Anyone out there able to clear this one up? Maybe someone can supply
measurements of the block, head, and sump heights, so we can compare the
various models? I guess include manifolds too. (If anyone can squeeze a tape
measure in!)
Having thought about it, the best dimension is probably crank to cam
centrelines (to compare dimensions you can't really alter hence find if
engines are really heaps different) and then sump height and cam pulley
diameter, as surely you can chop the cam boxes down to at least this low?
What about putting other pulleys on - as long as you maintain ratios and
belts aren't 'bending' too much, this will drop height too.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North
New Zealand - Where one volcano has disrupted the ski season two consecutive
years!

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 20:18:04 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Engine Oil Consumption

Hiya All

My beloved 20 valve, with a guesstimate of 80,000k (50,000 miles) on it has
always gone through about a litre of mobil 1 every 5000k (3000 miles). How
does this compare with other engines? I change the oil every 5000k and
filter every 10. I run an oil cooler, so the oil stays in pretty good shape.

Thanks in Advance

Phil Bradhaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (aka poor man's Caterham/Lotus 7)

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 08:18:52 EDT
Subject: Re: AE86 Brakes
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> From:          bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM
> Date:          Tue, 16 Jul 96 12:54:53 EST
> To:            toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> Subject:       AE86 Brakes

> To the list,
> I just dont like the 'feel' of my AE86's brakes. Last Sunday we had a sprint
> at Calder Raceway. In the under 1600 classes we had some MK1 MR2's, a Trueno
> (A86 GTS) and my Sprinter. As usually the A86's ate the MR2's for lunch but
> and as the 86's had DP-11 pads they didnt fade. But just as I was driving
> home I compared the MR2 pedals with the 86's. Both 86's felt like a limp
> sponge but neither had lost any fluid or cooked in any way. In fact although
> the 86's brake as deeply the pedal travel is so much more that you
> sometimes cant heal and toe because its so near to the firewall but the MR's
> have great feel. Noticably the 86's were much older and I wonder if the
> hoses end up giving more over time. Has anyone done a check on the effect
> of braided lines on the feel and pedal travel for these cars? Braided lines
> are illegal on our State but I'll do it if it gives me more pedal response.

> Bruce.
>           Your brakes seem to be a bit different to the Canadian AE 
86 becuase mine is hard. At one time I thought my booster was
kaput but my buddy's brakes had a similar feel.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca 
> 

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 12:54:53 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: AE86 Brakes

To the list,
I just dont like the 'feel' of my AE86's brakes. Last Sunday we had a sprint
at Calder Raceway. In the under 1600 classes we had some MK1 MR2's, a Trueno
(A86 GTS) and my Sprinter. As usually the A86's ate the MR2's for lunch but
and as the 86's had DP-11 pads they didnt fade. But just as I was driving
home I compared the MR2 pedals with the 86's. Both 86's felt like a limp
sponge but neither had lost any fluid or cooked in any way. In fact although
the 86's brake as deeply the pedal travel is so much more that you
sometimes cant heal and toe because its so near to the firewall but the MR's
have great feel. Noticably the 86's were much older and I wonder if the
hoses end up giving more over time. Has anyone done a check on the effect
of braided lines on the feel and pedal travel for these cars? Braided lines
are illegal on our State but I'll do it if it gives me more pedal response.
Bruce.

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 15:07:11 -0400
From: Chris Myer 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: We're working on it!

Yes, I know we've got a major problem.  Trust me.  I got 6500 messages in my
TM inbox in 48 hours.

I hope we can figure this out soon!

Chris

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 19:08:15 +0000
From: "Earl\i Anselm" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Please

Send me any info that you have on where I may pick up performace parts
for my 91 Cressida.

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:29:51 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara 
To: An-Hong Chien 
Cc: "Grace, Eric" ,
Subject: Re: Anybody else getting the same messages over and over?

On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, An-Hong Chien wrote:

> yup...me too. i had 76 msg and more than 75% of it was a repeat.
> dave

I have sent a message to tom and chris who are at the site where the
majordomo list is run from. Things appear to have stopped overnight (Aus
time) so let's hope a problem was found and has been fixed...

  Paul.
 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-=
 =-=-B O N D  U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:49:23 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: AE86 Brakes

A friend of mine who runs a sports sedan TA22 with vented discs all round 
experienced exactly the same problem i.e. no fluid problems or fade 
because of heat but the standard lines would swell so much when hot that 
the pedal would go to the floor. Braided line fixed that right up, he now 
has excellent and consistent pedal feel. A fairly cheap outlay for great 
results.

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Tue, 16 Jul 1996 bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:

> To the list,
> I just dont like the 'feel' of my AE86's brakes. Last Sunday we had a sprint
> at Calder Raceway. In the under 1600 classes we had some MK1 MR2's, a Trueno
> (A86 GTS) and my Sprinter. As usually the A86's ate the MR2's for lunch but
> and as the 86's had DP-11 pads they didnt fade. But just as I was driving
> home I compared the MR2 pedals with the 86's. Both 86's felt like a limp
> sponge but neither had lost any fluid or cooked in any way. In fact although
> the 86's brake as deeply the pedal travel is so much more that you
> sometimes cant heal and toe because its so near to the firewall but the MR's
> have great feel. Noticably the 86's were much older and I wonder if the
> hoses end up giving more over time. Has anyone done a check on the effect
> of braided lines on the feel and pedal travel for these cars? Braided lines
> are illegal on our State but I'll do it if it gives me more pedal response.
> Bruce.
> 

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:57:28 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: Kevin Annfield 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Injection diagram for 18RGEU

Sorry Kevin, I don't know what engine you have got but i do know that it 
is NOT an 18rgeu. These motors are strictly 8 valve (there was a 16 valve 
version built for group B rally cars in the late 70's but not for general 
consumption). Sounds like you bought yourself a 20 valve 4AGE, the 18rgeu 
has the same block as your standard 18r ie. it would have been a straight 
bolt in job. Putting this motor in is going to require a hell of a lot 
more work i'm afraid. Good luck.

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Kevin Annfield wrote:

> Well i finally got my self an 18RGEU. But now I am having BIG troubles
> finding a wiring diagram for the engine. I ask you people two things. One,
> Do any of you know what kind of car this engine came out of. And, Do you
> know were I would be bale to get a diagram if none of you lovely people have
> one. Oh and also, the engine has a YAHAMA 20 VALVE head on the thing (Yes i
> have counted them under the tappet cover looks awesome), and supposedly has
> only done 30,000 kms. I picked it up with computer and all accserriores
> (sorry about the spelling) for $850.
> 

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 23:27:26 -0400
To: greencg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Chris Hilliard 
Subject: Re: 

>bumper, with barely enough space to hang My GATORS tag between them.

        Ya' know, you'd probably get better performance if you would put a
University
of Tennessee tag between them   8()

                                                The Infamous Tojo

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 23:34:26 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Chris Hilliard 
Subject: Anybody else getting the same messages over and over?

        I checked my messages from the group today and there are like 8 - 10 of
the exact same message over a span of about 5 messages. I had 104 messages
in my box and only 8 were original. The rest were repeats ( none of which
were replies).
                                                Just Checking

                                                   Chris "The Infamous Tojo"

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 13:47:09 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: Matti Kalalahti 
Cc: Toyota-Mods mailing list 
Subject: Re: Sojuz!

G'day Matti,
A couple of answers and a couple of questions. On the point of 
injectors, the mazda ones i am running are a straight replacement for the 
stock 
injectors and upped the flow from 295 cc/min to 530 cc/min without any 
control problems that i can feel ie. at any rpm in any gear just floor 
the throttle and the car just pulls away with no stutter or surge. I have 
also increased my fuel line size from 1/4" to 5/16" and have used a fuel 
pump from a turboed 3.0 litre six rated at 125 psi max and too much flow 
for me to measure. Still on injectors, a local fuel injection expert has 
built his own injectors based on the Bosch o ring type. He has replaced 
the standard pintel with his own machined one which is huge but with a 
tapered end. He then machines the end of the injector to accept a cap 
with a hole in in to control the amount of fuel delivery (its a bit like 
idle jets on a carbi). He has used these injectors on projects ranging 
from 40 hp to over 550 horsepower and has yet to encounter any probs. Now 
some questions. Do you think your boost spiking might be because your 
waste gate is too small to shed the large exhaust gas volumes, rather 
than slow response time because of long vacuum lines. The integral waste 
gate on my turbo is very small (to me anyway) approx 30 mm and i would be 
interested in your thoughts as i expect  to encounter this sort of prob 
when i turn the boost up from its' present 8 psi to the 15 psi the motor 
was built to run. I have an external 47 mm waste gate but i would rather 
not use it as it is ugly any complicates the exhaust plumbing in a big 
way. I can't remeber if you have your intercooler on yet, if you do did 
you find it increased lag noticeably. I think this is a big enough post 
for now.

Cheers, 

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Matti Kalalahti wrote:

> Progress, that is. The only russian word i know, pretty much...
> 
> Fuel problems were pushed to a bit higher level by two high-pressure
> fuel pumps in parallel. One wasn't enough to keep the regulator working
> properly. Now I have 4 liters per minute delivery at 5 bars.
> Now, if only the damned injectors would work reliably at elevated
> pressures. 3.3 bar differential pressure is what I'm using now,
> at 3.4-3.7 bar I would get occasional miss at high speed, sometimes
> serious enough to feel like a rev limiter at 5000rpm... Stock differential
> pressure is 2.55 bar, but it was in practice only 2.3 bar, so I have
> managed to get 20% more fuel delivery to the engine. That allowed me
> to up the boost to 1.05 bar (15psi), giving 232hp@5200rpm.
> A bit more at lower rpms actually, but that is at a higher pressure
> due to spiking (VBC). Will have to try with shorter hoses, 1.45bar
> at 4000rpm is and isn't cool (on 5th gear) - over 400Nm but too
> damn close to safe limits of the turbo... 
> 
> Next: larger compressor and injectors. Any of you other similar injector
> hunters had any luck?
> 
> -- 
> Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
> k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up...
> A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/
> 

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 00:19:24 -0400
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net

Looking for the following items:
1 .   Metal or glass replacement panels for the area behind the rear wheels.
2 .   Stock steering wheel, mine has bad spots in the leather.
3 .   Good leather shift boot..Black.
5 .   Hood (front) release lever...mine is broken and the vise grip thing
sucks!!

A source for the following:
1. performance air filter/exaust pieces
2. docs/service manuals

and assistance with what other Toyota seats, if any , will fit  this
application.
I live in south Florida, and Mr. sunshine has taken his toll, as the last
owner never, never had the tops on the car...rain or shine.

thanks...
Chris Green
greencg@gate.net
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net
87 Mister 2 n/a  Black
87 Vw Scirocco 16v Silver
horsepower is god, tell everyone.
 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
BF

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 22:18:33 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin 
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: wiring diagram

Does anyone have the stereo wiring diagram for a 96 Camry?  This is the 
type that has the amplifier under the front passenger seat.

Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal.

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 15:36:21 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Speech impediment!

Hey Toyota-mods server,
                        That's a bad stutter ya got there, bud!

(It's like one of those yuppie watches, you know, they tell you same thing
'bout six times! :)

Thank you very little,

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
   "On second thoughts, let us not go to Camelot. 
               It is a silly place"
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: 17 Jul 1996 00:33:44 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: 3SGE heights
To: "Phil Bradshaw" ,

 Reply to:     RE>3SGE heights

Hi, all.

Phil wrote:

>Having thought about it, the best dimension is probably crank to cam
>centrelines

Yep.  That makes a lot of sense to me, too.

>and then sump height and cam pulley diameter, as surely you can chop 
>the cam boxes down to at least this low?

Right on.  I think the OD of the cam pulleys would actually be the ultimate 
limitation.

When I measure 3SG heights from now on, I'll measure the crank CL to 
cam CL, the crank CL to sump bottom, and the cam pulley OD.  That 
should cover it pretty well.

Thanks for the guidance, Phil.

erik.berg@trw.com

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 14:58:31 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2

Most of us thoght the MR2 was dead, but just when I didnt expect it the
Australian dealers have recieved a new face lifted model! The new features
include, a TORSEN LSD, immobiliser, AIRBAG for the Bathurst model and 3SG
mods but sadly no more power and it still costs more than $50,000 on the
road. Who will be first to buy it guys?
Bruce

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 16:24:14 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: Mk1 stereo

Ok I finally got it how i want it this time...i think...
This is what I did...
I took 2 kenwood 6x9's and put them into carpeted boxes from Radio Shack..
mounted the boxes together kinda in a T formation..with screws..

                                -------------
                               !   speaker   !
                               !             !
                                -------------
                                  !  S    !
                                  !  P    !
                                  !  E    !
                                  !  A    !
                    screw------ > !  K    !<---screw to existing bracket
                                   -------
I then removed the rear glovebox, and used the existing bracket to mount the
whole mess to the rear firewall....
use big ole drywall screws...works great....
BTW      Anyone have any use for a good rear glovebox from a 87mr2... black??
armor-all'ed weekly??
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net                    /
87 Mister 2 n/a  Black            < ----------- FAVE!!!
pioneer cd player                   \
Escort laser/3 band
rockford fosgate punch 150
2 kenwood 6x9 's in boxes behind the h-rests
Yok A008 rt's all the way around
______________________________________
87 Vw Scirocco 16v Silver
ND turbo system stage2 
too many suspension mods to list!!
______________________________________
horsepower is god, tell everyone.
 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
Benjamin Franklin.

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 17:15:41 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: Right hand Drive

How hard would it be to convert mr American Market Mr2 mk1 to a Right Hand
drive ???
And what special bits would be involved???? 
boy this Ought to start a bizarre thread!!!
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net                    /
87 Mister 2 n/a  Black            < ----------- FAVE!!!
pioneer cd player                   \
Escort laser/3 band
rockford fosgate punch 150
2 kenwood 6x9 's in boxes behind the h-rests
Yok A008 rt's all the way around
______________________________________
87 Vw Scirocco 16v Silver
ND turbo system stage2 
too many suspension mods to list!!
______________________________________
horsepower is god, tell everyone.
 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
Benjamin Franklin.

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: Sojuz!
To: simpson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 00:57:33 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)

> G'day Matti,

G'day Justin and all the lurkers...

> A couple of answers and a couple of questions. On the point of 
> injectors, the mazda ones i am running are a straight replacement for the 
> stock 
> injectors and upped the flow from 295 cc/min to 530 cc/min without any 
> control problems that i can feel ie. at any rpm in any gear just floor 
> the throttle and the car just pulls away with no stutter or surge. I have 
> also increased my fuel line size from 1/4" to 5/16" and have used a fuel 
> pump from a turboed 3.0 litre six rated at 125 psi max and too much flow 
> for me to measure. Still on injectors, a local fuel injection expert has 
> built his own injectors based on the Bosch o ring type. He has replaced 
> the standard pintel with his own machined one which is huge but with a 
> tapered end. He then machines the end of the injector to accept a cap 
> with a hole in in to control the amount of fuel delivery (its a bit like 
> idle jets on a carbi). He has used these injectors on projects ranging 
> from 40 hp to over 550 horsepower and has yet to encounter any probs. 

How much $$$'s for the Mazda injectors? How about the modified ones?

While fighting with inadequate pumps we saw no losses due to fuel
lines and filter (at 2 l/min) and I don't think there's much
now either as 2+2 was finally 4 with the 2 pumps in parallel.
Oh well. My lines ARE 5/16" (8mm).

> Now 
> some questions. Do you think your boost spiking might be because your 
> waste gate is too small to shed the large exhaust gas volumes, rather 
> than slow response time because of long vacuum lines. The integral waste 
> gate on my turbo is very small (to me anyway) approx 30 mm and i would be 
> interested in your thoughts as i expect  to encounter this sort of prob 
> when i turn the boost up from its' present 8 psi to the 15 psi the motor 
> was built to run. I have an external 47 mm waste gate but i would rather 
> not use it as it is ugly any complicates the exhaust plumbing in a big 
> way. 

The vacuum lines were LONG, as I had the VBC mounted in the center console,
about 3 meters... I don't mind some spiking, actually about 0.2 bar would
be desirable. Yesterday I stomped on it at 3500rpm on 5th gear, up
a hill - boost jumped off the scale to about 1.7bar... holy shit...
I'm not sure but I think my clutch started slipping at that point :(
No wonder, as I must have made about 480Nm!!! A LITTLE bit too much,
I'd be willing to settle for 400-430Nm... Now, later on that trip
while passing by the traffic at 160km/h on the highway, boosted it up 
to 1 bar and suddenly, the engine shuts down... I coast down next to an
exit and pop up the hood. Oh well, the intake pipe had blown out of a hose
- reminder of the need for HEAVY DUTY clamps... Loosened and retightened
the clamp and back into business. So I moved the VBC closer to turbo
on the firewall behind the brake master cylinder. We'll see if it helps
(can't test now as it's raining, like it has done the whole damned
"summer" - wheelspin you know).

I don't think the wastegate is too small, as with the VBC closed
I managed to get less boost at midrange and more at 5000rpm plus
than I'm running now. This was done by altering the wastegate rod
length (it's adjustable in mine). So I think the solution can be find
on these two adjustments... maybe moving the VBC is enough. If not,
I may try to shorten the wastegate rod and turn down the VBC to 
achieve a flatter boost curve. Or maybe try different size orifices
for the VBC. BTW, my wastegate has been ported before I bought it...
A too small wastegate should cause the boost to creep up
as revs go up, just what I experienced with too short wastegate rod.
Funny things may happen though when one gets close to the flow
limit of the compressor, like I expect to be right now (45-trim should
be enough for about 240hp max in a Volvo).

> I can't remeber if you have your intercooler on yet, if you do did 
> you find it increased lag noticeably. I think this is a big enough post 
> for now.

Yes, the intercooler is on. The lag is almost exactly the same
with the T3 (45-trim, 0.63 A/R turbine) and intercooler as it was
with no intercooler and stock CT20. Sure there is lag, quite a lot
compared to CT26. Sometimes annoying if I'm not quite on the powerband.
I may try smaller turbine housing and advancing the intake cam
(now at 128 degrees). I should be able to gain 12-15% low-end torque
which will help in spooling up quicker. 0.48 A/R spools up about 300-400
rpm earlier according to the papers I have, but resticts the top end
a bit.

Cheers!

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up...
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 09:50:10 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: Matti Kalalahti 
Cc: Toyota-Mods mailing list 
Subject: Re: Sojuz!

Hi Matti,
I picked the Mazda injectors up $100 Australian for the lot, add another 
$100 to have them cleaned and serviced and i have a set of injectors that 
flow as much as the Lexus ones that Supra owners are paying ten times the 
amount for. Those custom injectors are quite a bit dearer at around $100 
each, but that is still a reasonable price around here.

Unfortunately i don't have much info on the turbo that came with my 
motor. It is supposedly built to Garrett TO4 specs. There is no A/R ratio 
on the housing (a bit of a problem) and i had little success when i tried 
to calculate it myself. I do know that it is a split pulse set-up with 
the waste gate only venting one of the inlets (bit weird) and the 
compressor and turbine wheels both measure 55 mm. The waste gate is set 
around 8-10 psi and the rod cannot be adjusted. A VBC is definitley on 
the cards but i want to explore the limits in standard trim first, this 
being my first attempt with a non factory turbo. What sort of information 
do you think i could derive from these specs and is there anything else i 
might be able to measure that would give a better indication of what this 
turbo will do. Thanks for your input, it's always nice to have someone a 
couple of steps ahead of you to get the good oil.

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 08:12:31 +0800 (WST)
From: Travis Morien 
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: MR2

On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:

> Most of us thoght the MR2 was dead, but just when I didnt expect it the
> Australian dealers have recieved a new face lifted model! The new features
> include, a TORSEN LSD, immobiliser, AIRBAG for the Bathurst model and 3SG
> mods but sadly no more power and it still costs more than $50,000 on the
> road. Who will be first to buy it guys?
> Bruce
> 
No more power?  Actually I was under the impression most of the mods were 
to the engine and drivetrain and were geared precisely to produce more
power?  just read in "motor" magazine that the new one is gonna be
something of a tar burner.. 8)

(it was just in some little paragraph talking about a motor show and under
Toyota it said we were gonna get a version with a bit more mumbo...).

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 19:12:40 -0500
To: greencg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: Right hand Drive

>How hard would it be to convert mr American Market Mr2 mk1 to a Right Hand
>drive ???
>And what special bits would be involved????
>boy this Ought to start a bizarre thread!!!
>Chris Green
>Greencg@gate.net                    /
>87 Mister 2 n/a  Black            < ----------- FAVE!!!
>pioneer cd player                   \
>Escort laser/3 band
>rockford fosgate punch 150
>2 kenwood 6x9 's in boxes behind the h-rests
>Yok A008 rt's all the way around
>______________________________________
>87 Vw Scirocco 16v Silver
>ND turbo system stage2
>too many suspension mods to list!!
>______________________________________
>horsepower is god, tell everyone.
>
>"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
>neither"
>Benjamin Franklin.

I guess the first question is - why? Being in America, I figure you would
ask the other way around. But even then, I've seen right-hand drive cars
over here - I presume that as long as they can pass safety and emmisions,
the government turns a blind eye to which side of the car the steering
wheel is on. :)

But, as Dave A. learned (when converting his auto-tranny to a
manual-tranny), if it could be done, Toyota has thought it through. But the
pieces list would be huge:

steering column (probably will retro-fit)
rack-and-pinion setup (*might* be able to retro-fit)
clutch hydraulics (custom bend?)
brake hydraulics (custom bend?)
pedals (mounting points)
emergency brake (other side)
both seats (the driver's seat doesn't fit on the passenger side)
a/c setup  (plumping, evaporator, etc).
glove box
dash trim
etc, etc, etc

About the only thing more complicated then changing which side to put the
steering wheel is moving the engine to the front! :) A lot of the parts
from the dash and center console have LHD (Left Hand Drive?) stamped on
them, so I have no doubt there are tons of spare parts out there (New
Zealand, Austaralia, Europe, etc?).

I would think that it would be a *lot* cheaper to just buy a RHD car, and
have it shipped to the US. Jamaica and Bermuda would be my first
recommendation. Then work your way over to England and the Netherlands.
Last I checked, you can have the car shipped over from Europe for around
$750 or so, but you would a) have to find someone to broker the deal and b)
you would have to pay the complete cost up front (something about titling,
shipping insurance, etc). But it could be done.

I have the same answer to this as to asking how to add A/C, how to convert
a sunroof car to a t-top, etc. It would be cheaper to buy the car you want,
configured the way you want, then trying to retrofit - except Dave A., he
got special dispensation or something. :-)

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 11:14:05 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Rebuild !!

*** Resending note of 07/18/96 11:12

Todd,

I am currently using the HKS light flywheel and 1300 lb clutch in my '86 and
it's great.  I've noticed no real change to driveability and the throttle
response is greatly improved.  On the occasional hot start you'll enjoy the
total lockup...  I use a stock disk with the HKS components for driveability.
The only downside I see to this is the cost -- I think from HKS the flywheel
and clutch plate will run you $450 - $500.

FWIW, I've also installed a stock clutch beefed up to 1200 lb by my local
clutch fab company and it's also good.  The throttle response isn't as good
as with the light flywheel but I get good lockup and driveability.  Again, I
use a stock disk.  I called once on the kevlar disk but the manufacturer
recommended at least 1800 lbs of pressure, which in my opinion would stress
the stock hydraulics too far (even if you could get a PP with that pressure).

As for your convertible idea, the pillars in that car are very beefy... maybe
Steve B. can tell you what happened to his car when he cut the roof off.

Dave A.
daucott@aol.com

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: Re: Rebuild !!
To: Todd.A.Campbell@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 11:14:52 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

There were a few convertable Mk I MR2s driving around South Florida for a 
while. There was one specifically that I remember, white cogy, blue top, 
was a t-top before the convertion (could tell by the rear-mounted 
antennae). I guess the t-top would already have a good amount of 
structural reinforcement. When I cut off my roof on my parts car, I 
noticed a *signifcant* amount of loss of structural rigidity - but then 
again, I cut if off at the *base* of the windshied, not at the top. I 
would defintely recommend finding someone who can weld some reinforment 
bars along the frame under the passenger area - and don't expect to be 
doing any AutoX'ing! :)

If you did it, it would defintely not be an all-season car. If you didn't 
have a good contact at ASC (or whatever hey are called now), you might 
have some hard lessons in deisnging a covertiable (stowable) top. I don't 
know of anyone making a convertable kit. Just remember, the only other 
mid-engined convertable car I know of is the Ferrari Mondial 
convertable, - and that's a 4-seater!!! I  have no idea how they deisnged 
that roof to fit well - if you aren't careful, you'll end up with a 
convertable that looks like a VW Rabbit convertalbe. :)

How about an MR2 roadster - with a cut windshield?

Steve B.

> 
> Well the process has begun !!!
> 
> Just to let you guys know, I start labeling all the hoses and wires and
> everything else today and then the engine comes out Saturday.
> 
> I have checked on prices, ( with the help of a lot of people here !! ) and I
> the project will cost me about $450 dollars, htat includes new gasket
> bearings, rings the works !! $150 more will cover all of the things in need
> for a new clutch, which brings me to one of the two questions I have.
> Earlier in the year a lot of people were talking about clutches, using
> smaller ones bigger ones, factory ones, kevlar, drilling holes to reduce
> heat , friction etc.... So what was the final tally !!!
> Can anybody give me the readers digest version on what they think is
> the best clutch replacement to do in a 1986 Mk I. I won't be racing it ( I
> may jump on it now and then ).
> Now to the "juicy" question, this may sound a little strange but I think a
> convertable MR2 (Mk I ) would look cool, so I am thinking about it. Has
> any one ever heard of this being done, a rag top MR2 !!!
> If so did it effect the handling or the stability of the car ?
> 
> Todd Campbell
> Omaha,NE
> 

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 09:42:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: Right hand Drive
To: Toyota Mods 

> How hard would it be to convert mr American Market Mr2 mk1 to a Right Hand
> drive ???
> And what special bits would be involved????
> boy this Ought to start a bizarre thread!!!

Well, once i get my photos developed of my shell .. you can see why it might 
require chopping holes in the front firewall.  The holes in there are not 
symetrical  .... like for the steering wheel etc.

Later

Ade
'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver
'84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car
'87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car
AdeM@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand

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From: Todd.A.Campbell@mro01.usace.army.mil
Date: 18 Jul 1996 13:17:58 Z
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Return requested) (Receipt notification requested)
Subject: Rebuild !!

Well the process has begun !!!

Just to let you guys know, I start labeling all the hoses and wires and
everything else today and then the engine comes out Saturday.

I have checked on prices, ( with the help of a lot of people here !! ) and I
the project will cost me about $450 dollars, htat includes new gasket
bearings, rings the works !! $150 more will cover all of the things in need
for a new clutch, which brings me to one of the two questions I have.
Earlier in the year a lot of people were talking about clutches, using
smaller ones bigger ones, factory ones, kevlar, drilling holes to reduce
heat , friction etc.... So what was the final tally !!!
Can anybody give me the readers digest version on what they think is
the best clutch replacement to do in a 1986 Mk I. I won't be racing it ( I
may jump on it now and then ).
Now to the "juicy" question, this may sound a little strange but I think a
convertable MR2 (Mk I ) would look cool, so I am thinking about it. Has
any one ever heard of this being done, a rag top MR2 !!!
If so did it effect the handling or the stability of the car ?

Todd Campbell
Omaha,NE

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 11:28:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: SC head work
To: Toyota Mods 

(i sent this directly to Tommy, but it bounced... please email me directly)

hi Tommy

> I'll update again once everything is together and running, which will
> unfortunately be quite some time because of Summer Holidays, etc.
>
> Thanks VERY much again to all the people who took the time to offer their
> useful advice !

keep us updated!! i'd be interested to see what differences your work makes
as i will eventually be looking for those types of upgrades/mods for my race 

car.

Thanks

Ade
'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver
'84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car
'87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car
AdeM@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 21:13:45 UT
From: "BRAD BEDELL" 
To: "Kevin Annfield" ,
Subject: RE: Injection diagram for 18RGEU

Hey everyone, Just curious of what is out there in non- USA model 3SGTE 
(turbo)
don't have alot of info on this motor, especially the Japanese model

Brad
BradBedell@msn.com
91' MKII turbo

----------
From: 	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com on behalf of Kevin Annfield
Sent: 	Tuesday, July 16, 1996 2:38 AM
To: 	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 	Injection diagram for 18RGEU

Well i finally got my self an 18RGEU. But now I am having BIG troubles
finding a wiring diagram for the engine. I ask you people two things. One,
Do any of you know what kind of car this engine came out of. And, Do you
know were I would be bale to get a diagram if none of you lovely people have
one. Oh and also, the engine has a YAHAMA 20 VALVE head on the thing (Yes i
have counted them under the tappet cover looks awesome), and supposedly has
only done 30,000 kms. I picked it up with computer and all accserriores
(sorry about the spelling) for $850.

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From: ARacer@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 17:24:01 -0400
To: cmyer@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: We're working on it!

>Yes, I know we've got a major problem.  Trust me.  I got 6500 messages in
>my TM inbox in 48 hours.

>I hope we can figure this out soon!

>Chris

Oh! I thought that was an intelligence test -- to see how many times I could
read the same message before I realized I was doing it. :-) (It took me a
while, but I did finally see the pattern; 'still have one or two brain cells
working).

Ed Pitts

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:38:35 +1200
To: Todd.A.Campbell@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: DIY Convertible MR2 (was Re: Rebuild !!)

Todd,

>Now to the "juicy" question, this may sound a little strange but I think a
>convertable MR2 (Mk I ) would look cool, so I am thinking about it. Has
>any one ever heard of this being done, a rag top MR2 !!!
>If so did it effect the handling or the stability of the car ?

I like your style! Turf the screen while you're at it and it will probably
look a bit like a early 70s CANAM Porsche 917/ McLaren! 

Mad ideas from the top of my head -I thought seriously about ripping the
roof off another car a while ago - I dare not say what car or else people
will laugh at me (more than they do already). 

Key is to quantify before and after shell rigidity to prove your engineering
is sound enuff to pass inspection. Suggest you strip the car down to bare
shell - no doors or glass or anything -  and put it on axle stands at
extreme 'chassis' corners. Use a dial test indicator and a known weight ie
yourself, and see how much it deflects in the middle when you hop in it. You
may need a couple of people to get a reasonable deflection. Ensure
measurements are witnessed by suitable person (ie certified engineer) or
else you may be able to video whole thing.

Once you have finished the chop (and done bracing as below obviously!),
repeat the process - same weight, same measuring point and supports - In NZ
a homebuilt convertible has to be something like 80% as torsionally rigid as
the original car. See what the local regs say. Obviously you want it as
strong as possible to keep the handling, and if you crash it. Strengthening
the windscreen frame to act as a roll bar may not be silly either - depends
on the amount of work you want to do. It is most important that you weld
some tube between the dash and rear bulkhead, with some cross bracing,
before you rip the roof off or else it will all bend on you and your doors
will never fit properly. Remove the tubing when you finish.

I would brace the car by adding thicker, continuous plate inside the sills,
from kickpanel tops down to floor, along sills and up the back to the
bulkhead top. Also accross the  rear bulkhead to make up for the loss in
crosswise strength from the loss of the roof. The dash will probably be ok,
especially if you have a bonded windscreen, hovever a loss of rigidity may
cause your windscreen to crack. 

I would also do the same, and panel the tunnel sides, then tie the strut
towers to it. I would effectively put in a front and rear suspension strut
tower braces that tie the towers together accross the car and also
back/forward in a V to the centre of the dash/rear bulkhead (somehow
clearing engine etc). If you can't get the V to join, get the 'free' ends of
tubes as close together as possible and tie together with some boxtube lying
flat. Use something like 1 inch round tube for the ties (at least 2mm wall
thickness, maybe a little more) and 2x1 inch box section,similar thickness,
which mates with the tunnel plates. Use say 2 mm steel plate on the tunnel
and sills.

Sure, the car will end up heavier despite losing the rear screen and C
pillars etc, but all convertibles are heavier than tin tops. The bracing is
a must, and sill bracing alone may not be enuff. I would do the sills as I
suggested, and re-test the cat for stiffness - if it is enough you are on a
winner, as any work around the tunnel/dash will be a major to avoid clearing
underdash bits. If not, do the tunnel as well. it is a bit of a trial and
error process.

Hope this helps. If you have any more questions please feel free - I have
thought a lot about this sort of operation.

I take no responsibility!

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North
New Zealand

Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve.

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:16:12 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Blow off valves

Having recently installed a turbo on my 18RG i am now in the process of 
fine tuning it with all the optional extras. I have a blow off valve 
rated at 15 psi which is a stand alone unit which vents when that boost 
pressure is reached in the inlet plumbing (pre throttle body). This does 
not seem to be the best design to me, particularly if higher boosts are 
required (obviously a higher pressure blow off valve would be required). 
I can think of two good reasons to install a blow off valve 1) to stop 
the turbo stalling when the throttle is shut ie. keeps it spinning freely 
so good boost is available when the throttle is reopened 2) to stop the 
pressure wave that reflects off the closed throttle back down to the 
turbo which is spinning at 80,000 +rpm with potentially explosive 
results. The blow off valve i have does neither of these jobs very well 
as 15 psi has to be reached before it works. 
A more optimum design to my mind would be a blow off valve that sensed 
the pressure differential across the throttle butterfly and then vented 
at a pre set level eg. 5 psi difference. My question to the turbo gurus 
in the group is, are there blow off valves that perform this way (i'm 
fairly sure there would be) ? and if so what would be a cheap unit (not 
that over priced crap from HKS etc). Also what is the point in having an 
adjustable blow off valve if it measures a pressure diff not absolute 
boost pressure.

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 19:16:52 -0500
To: "G. D. Aucott" ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: Rebuild !!

>As for your convertible idea, the pillars in that car are very beefy...
>maybe
>Steve B. can tell you what happened to his car when he cut the roof off.
>
>Dave A.
>
>daucott@aol.com
>

I can say that the front and rear sections are *very* strong, but the
middle is not as strong as you would think. The roof is *defintely* needed
if any amount of structural rigidity is expected. The roof on my Mk II has
a hurrendous amount of flex, so I can only imagine what a Mk I SC w/t-tops
is like.

The largest problem you will have is with diaginal flex - not front to
rear, or left to right, but corner to corner. When the car had the roof
off, but with a solid front and rear, I could jack up a corner, and get it
alost a foot off the ground before any of the other 3 quarters started
moving.

But I will say that the strongest part of the car is where the roof meets
the rear quarter panel. There are at least 6-7 pieces of unitbody all
joining in that one place. If you are serious about this, and want to turn
it into a 'roadster', you might want to weld the doors shut in some way or
form - *then* the car would be like a rock. :)

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 19:18:28 -0500
To: lcswgtn@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Lingo Computer Systems Limited),
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: Ragtops?

>It's been done, but personally, I think it's sacriledge :)

They said the same thing about the 'chopped' Countach. :)

>There are some pictures floating around and about the place on this - so you
>can actually see what they look like.  Someone else mailed them to me - I
>can try and dig 'em up for you and post them to your mailbox.  Can you cope
>with JPG images?

Cool! Is there room on the ftp.mr2.com site?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 19:21:23 -0500
To: Adrienne Mora ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: Rebuild !!

>> As for your convertible idea, the pillars in that car are very beefy... maybe
>> Steve B. can tell you what happened to his car when he cut the roof off.
>
>Well, the MR2 body is not THAT weak.  Let me tell you ... everyone I've
>talked to about MR2 body shells (in regards to the race car i'm building)
>says their strong and HEAVY little cars.  The guy who originally had the
>shell i have said he had heaps of trouble lifting the body, whereas other
>cars he's done he could lift himself.  they may be small .. but they aren't
>light! : )  It's definately gonna be hard to lighten this little race car.
>
>Ade

I guess a little clarification again. I found the MR2 to be a *very* strong
car, especially around the front firewall. The car is very well designed,
as long as you keep it whole - that means even the t-tops will break down
the strength factor greatly. To cut off the roof will require a lot of
underbody framing, or welding the doors shut. Image two boxes with a flat
sheet connecting them (if you were to take off the roof). The
corner-to-corner flexing is *aweful* once you remove the roof.

Whole - the car is a bull. Roofless - it's a boat. Just my epxerience
chopping up my car. I've *got* to develope those 'during' photos. :)

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 16:57:50 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

     Name     :  Harry C. Wang
     Location :  San Jose, CA
     Model    :  no Toyota yet but will be buying a 91-95 MR2 Turbo
     Mods     :  planning as much as possible: intake, exhaust system,
                 turbo timer, EVC, VPC, DFI, suspension, turbo upgrade
     email    :  hwang@nchip.com

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From: Tony Lanterman 
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 18:03:58 -0700 (PDT)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re:  Ragtops?

I'm not sure about MR2's, but I can share some observations on the 
differences between the Coupe and Convertible versions of the '82-85
Celicas.  For starters you must realize that unless the car was 
designed from the start to be a convertible it will rattle and shake
more.  The second thing you must accept is that it will weigh more
and be slower as a result.  If your top will fold down (as opposed
to a removable hardtop concept) you will also lose lots of storage
space.  If you can live with all that, and are willing to put in 
the work, you could come up with a car that will get stares.

On the Celicas there are a few obvious points which were strengthened.
The doorsills are thicker for starters.  The point of this is to keep 
the car from bowing in the middle.  The windshield frame has also 
become a solid thing as opposed to a sheet metal frame.  However, the
most impressive bits are what has been welded to the bottom.  There is
a massive amount of bracing under there to try and make things rigid.

If you decide to go through with it, be sure to keep us all informed.

Woodsprite

**********************************************************************
* Without ice cream * 1985 Celica GT-S *       Joe Woodsprite        *
*   there would be  *   Convertible    *    Unsafe at any speed      *
*    darkness and   *  I don't drive   *                             *
*       chaos.      *       fast.      *     lantera@teleport.com    *
*         --        *    I fly low.    *                             *
*    Don Kardong    *  1983 Celica ST  *          dod #1456          *
*                   *  72 Honda CB350  *        Where's Julie?       *
**********************************************************************

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:26:06 +1200
To: BRAD BEDELL ,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: RE: Injection diagram for 18RGEU

>----------
>From: 	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com on behalf of Kevin Annfield
>Sent: 	Tuesday, July 16, 1996 2:38 AM
>To: 	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
>Subject: 	Injection diagram for 18RGEU
>
>Well i finally got my self an 18RGEU. But now I am having BIG troubles
>finding a wiring diagram for the engine. I ask you people two things. One,
>Do any of you know what kind of car this engine came out of. And, Do you
>know were I would be bale to get a diagram if none of you lovely people have
>one. Oh and also, the engine has a YAHAMA 20 VALVE head on the thing (Yes i
>have counted them under the tappet cover looks awesome), and supposedly has
>only done 30,000 kms. I picked it up with computer and all accserriores
>(sorry about the spelling) for $850.

ok - what the hell is this engine - does it really have 20 valves? What is
the serial no? How old is it? If it is a normal 20 valve I have all the
diagrams.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
One Eyed 20 Valve supporter

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 21:16:18 -0500 (EST)
From: "Jonathan B. Hacker (Supra Account)" 
To: Toyota-Mods 
Subject: Re: Blow off valves

> A more optimum design to my mind would be a blow off valve that sensed 
> the pressure differential across the throttle butterfly and then vented 
> at a pre set level eg. 5 psi difference. My question to the turbo gurus 
> in the group is, are there blow off valves that perform this way (i'm 
> fairly sure there would be) ? and if so what would be a cheap unit (not 
> that over priced crap from HKS etc). Also what is the point in having an 
> adjustable blow off valve if it measures a pressure diff not absolute 
> boost pressure.
> 
> Cheers,

The stock air-valve in the Supra turbo does this.  It opens
when there is a large vacuum downstream the throttle plate
(14psi or so ) such as when you snap the throttle closed between shifts.
(yes, this means it is also open at idle, but since it discharges
back into the suction side of the turbo it doesn't matter).

The Greddy BOV works this way, as do most others I thought.

Jon
90 Supra Turbo

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 22:05:09 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: '85 MR2 parts car - last body parts for sale

I'm getting down to the last of the body parts on my '85 parts car. Some
are in *good* shape, some parts are *real* cheap.

Good - if you plan on keeping your MR2 for a while (price includes shipping).

Right quarterpanel - 99% rust-free. Darn good shape. $250.
Doors - minimal dings, no rust, metal *only* (no trim or glass). $75/each
Rear bumper - great shape, oem Toyota part. $75

Bad - if you plan on selling your MR2 soon (price doesn't include shipping)

Right fender - not too pretty. But if you are looking for a quick
replacement... $15
Rear trunk lid - holes from aftermarket spoiler (ugh!), needs bodywork. $15
Front trunk lid - slightly noticable bend 1/2 way up (front end
collission). Bought car from used car lot, must have had accident before
sale, they did least amount of bodywork possible to get the car off the
lot. $30
Front bumper - see above, car was in front-end collission. Shop replaced
with non-Toyota part (argh!). Pebbly ('stone guard'?) surface. Not smooth
like I think it should be. $25.

If the stuff in the Bad section doesn't sell by next Tuesday afternoon (at
least a commitment), I'll be chopping it up and throwing it away. So no
reasonable offer will be refused.

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 03:10:54 UT
From: "BRAD BEDELL" 
To: "Adrienne Mora" ,
Subject: RE: Injection diagram for 18RGEU

I am in in the USA.
Done alot of engine mods to this one, wanting to know what Toyota offers for 
this motor outside of the USA, Poss better computers, cams, etc

Brad
BradBedell@msn.com
Dallas TX USA

----------
From: 	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com on behalf of Adrienne Mora
Sent: 	Friday, July 19, 1996 11:54 AM
To: 	Toyota Mods
Subject: 	RE: Injection diagram for 18RGEU

> Hey everyone, Just curious of what is out there in non- USA model 3SGTE
> (turbo)
> don't have alot of info on this motor, especially the Japanese model
>
> Brad
> BradBedell@msn.com
> 91' MKII turbo

where are you?

Ade
Adem@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 22:21:39 -0500
To: Tony Lanterman ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re:  Ragtops?

>space.  If you can live with all that, and are willing to put in
>the work, you could come up with a car that will get stares.

Two very emphatic thumbs up!

>**********************************************************************
>* Without ice cream * 1985 Celica GT-S *       Joe Woodsprite        *
>*   there would be  *   Convertible    *    Unsafe at any speed      *
>*    darkness and   *  I don't drive   *                             *

Correct me if I'm wrong (and I'm sure many will) but I didn't think that
Toyota *made* a Celica GTS convertible. I thought the model was based on
the ST or GT - a GTS Convertable would have cost more then a Supra, and
screwed with Toyotas marketing strategy?

>*       chaos.      *       fast.      *     lantera@teleport.com    *
>*         --        *    I fly low.    *                             *
>*    Don Kardong    *  1983 Celica ST  *          dod #1456          *
>*                   *  72 Honda CB350  *        Where's Julie?       *
>**********************************************************************

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 08:28 NZST
To: Todd.A.Campbell@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz (Lingo Computer Systems Limited)
Subject: Ragtops?
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Hey hey;

>Now to the "juicy" question, this may sound a little strange but I think a
>convertable MR2 (Mk I ) would look cool, so I am thinking about it. Has
>any one ever heard of this being done, a rag top MR2 !!!
>If so did it effect the handling or the stability of the car ?

It's been done, but personally, I think it's sacriledge :)

Mind you, it adds that open air look for people without Targa.  My *guess*
would be that due to all the dead space behind the cabin of the original
MR2, whacking out the roof would if anything enhance stability (better
airflow to the stabiliser/wing on the back) - anyone know for sure?  My
physics and aerodynamics are a little rusty :)

There are some pictures floating around and about the place on this - so you
can actually see what they look like.  Someone else mailed them to me - I
can try and dig 'em up for you and post them to your mailbox.  Can you cope
with JPG images?

Cheers

        ...Richard

--
                      LCS (Lingo Computer Systems) Limited
 Tel: +64-4-473 9379, Fax: +64-4-499 4984, E-mail: lcswgtn@wn.planet.gen.nz
                            "We Speak Your Language"

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 17:43:00 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: Phil Bradshaw 
Cc: BRAD BEDELL ,
Subject: RE: Injection diagram for 18RGEU

I'm not sure what he has got but it certainly isn't an 18RGEU. Toyota 
never made a 20 valve head for the 18R block and the 16 valve one they 
made for group B rally (drooool) was for competition cars only as far as 
i can make out. Probably is the 4AG 20v in which case its not going to be 
much fun installing in a RA28.

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Fri, 19 Jul 1996, Phil Bradshaw wrote:

> >----------
> >From: 	owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com on behalf of Kevin Annfield
> >Sent: 	Tuesday, July 16, 1996 2:38 AM
> >To: 	toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
> >Subject: 	Injection diagram for 18RGEU
> >
> >Well i finally got my self an 18RGEU. But now I am having BIG troubles
> >finding a wiring diagram for the engine. I ask you people two things. One,
> >Do any of you know what kind of car this engine came out of. And, Do you
> >know were I would be bale to get a diagram if none of you lovely people have
> >one. Oh and also, the engine has a YAHAMA 20 VALVE head on the thing (Yes i
> >have counted them under the tappet cover looks awesome), and supposedly has
> >only done 30,000 kms. I picked it up with computer and all accserriores
> >(sorry about the spelling) for $850.
> 
> ok - what the hell is this engine - does it really have 20 valves? What is
> the serial no? How old is it? If it is a normal 20 valve I have all the
> diagrams.
> 
> Phil Bradshaw
> Palmerston North NZ
> One Eyed 20 Valve supporter
> 

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 11:37:55 UT
From: "William Hall" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Ragtop MR2

Hi Toyota Brothers and Sisters,

I, also, have an 85 that needs a rebuild and my father and I have toyed with 
the idea of chopping the top.  I love seeing all the ideas about the ragtops.
I have a *.jpg (ere627.jpg) of a red ragtop that I found on the mr2.com ftp 
site.  I will gladly e-mail it to anyone who requests it.  Going out of town 
for weekend so I will respond to requests on Monday :-)

William Hall
91t MR2
85 MR2 need rebuild
87 toyota pickup/jetski puller (191,234mi and going strong)
wh_hall@msn.com

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 07:39:55 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Adrienne Mora  (by way of "Christopher P. Myer" )
Subject: RE: '85 MR2 parts car - last body parts for sale

> I'm getting down to the last of the body parts on my '85 parts car. Some
> are in *good* shape, some parts are *real* cheap.
>
> Good - if you plan on keeping your MR2 for a while (price includes 
shipping).
>
> Right quarterpanel - 99% rust-free. Darn good shape. $250.
> Doors - minimal dings, no rust, metal *only* (no trim or glass). $75/each
> Rear bumper - great shape, oem Toyota part. $75
>
> Bad - if you plan on selling your MR2 soon (price doesn't include 
shipping)
>
> Right fender - not too pretty. But if you are looking for a quick
> replacement... $15
> Rear trunk lid - holes from aftermarket spoiler (ugh!), needs bodywork. 
$15
> Front trunk lid - slightly noticable bend 1/2 way up (front end
> collission). Bought car from used car lot, must have had accident before
> sale, they did least amount of bodywork possible to get the car off the
> lot. $30
> Front bumper - see above, car was in front-end collission. Shop replaced
> with non-Toyota part (argh!). Pebbly ('stone guard'?) surface. Not smooth
> like I think it should be. $25.
>
> If the stuff in the Bad section doesn't sell by next Tuesday afternoon (at
> least a commitment), I'll be chopping it up and throwing it away. So no
> reasonable offer will be refused.

if only we lived in the same country ...........................

Later

Ade

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 08:08:11 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: "G. D. Aucott"  (by way of "Christopher P. Myer" )
Subject: Re: Rebuild !!

Todd,

I am currently using the HKS light flywheel and 1300 lb clutch in my '86 and
it's great.  I've noticed no real change to driveability and the throttle
response is greatly improved.  On the occasional hot start you'll enjoy the
total lockup...  I use a stock disk with the HKS components for driveability.
The only downside I see to this is the cost -- I think from HKS the flywheel
and clutch plate will run you $450 - $500.

FWIW, I've also installed a stock clutch beefed up to 1200 lb by my local
clutch fab company and it's also good.  The throttle response isn't as good
as with the light flywheel but I get good lockup and driveability.  Again, I
use a stock disk.  I called once on the kevlar disk but the manufacturer
recommended at least 1800 lbs of pressure, which in my opinion would stress
the stock hydraulics too far (even if you could get a PP with that pressure).

As for your convertible idea, the pillars in that car are very beefy... maybe
Steve B. can tell you what happened to his car when he cut the roof off.

Dave A.
daucott@aol.com

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 07:21:55 -0500
To: Tony York ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: Ragtops?

>Sounds great, let's see some pictures of these rare cars.
>
>We only get to see the standard MR2 coupe and the MR2 T-Bar. It's like being on
>a desert island knowing that there are all these different models of the MR2's.
>I have seen a single MR2 T-Bar Supercharger but that just looks like a normal
>Mr2 T-Bar with a badge on it.

What about the engine lid, it isn't raised? And there aren't any markers on
the sides and the lip of the rear trunk lid?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:55:56 -0700
From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch )
Subject: Re: Rebuild !!
To: Todd.A.Campbell@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

You wrote: 

>Now to the "juicy" question, this may sound a little strange but I 
think a
>convertable MR2 (Mk I ) would look cool, so I am thinking about it. 
Has
>any one ever heard of this being done, a rag top MR2 !!!
>If so did it effect the handling or the stability of the car ?
>
>Todd Campbell
>Omaha,NE

Todd there is a company out of Minnesota that sells a convertable kit 
for the MKI's.....
It looks GREAT !
It includes a subframe to be welded in under the car and all trim 
pieces.  I'll try to find my information and photos when I at home 
tonight.

John Welch

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: Ragtops?
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 07:55:13 PDT

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dclip=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D
>It's been done, but personally, I think it's sacriledge :)

They said the same thing about the 'chopped' Countach. :)

>There are some pictures floating around and about the place on this - =
so you
>can actually see what they look like.  Someone else mailed them to me =
- I
>can try and dig 'em up for you and post them to your mailbox.  Can you =
cope
>with JPG images?

Cool! Is there room on the ftp.mr2.com site?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D

Sounds great, let's see some pictures of these rare cars.

We only get to see the standard MR2 coupe and the MR2 T-Bar. It's like be=
ing on 
a desert island knowing that there are all these different models of the =
MR2's.
I have seen a single MR2 T-Bar Supercharger but that just looks like a =
normal 
Mr2 T-Bar with a badge on it.

Envy...Envy...Envy.....green......

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	105000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:08:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: Re: Rebuild !!
To: Toyota Mods 

> As for your convertible idea, the pillars in that car are very beefy... 
maybe
>
> Steve B. can tell you what happened to his car when he cut the roof off. 

Well, the MR2 body is not THAT weak.  Let me tell you ... everyone I've 
talked to about MR2 body shells (in regards to the race car i'm building) 
says their strong and HEAVY little cars.  The guy who originally had the 
shell i have said he had heaps of trouble lifting the body, whereas other 
cars he's done he could lift himself.  they may be small .. but they aren't 
light! : )  It's definately gonna be hard to lighten this little race car.

Ade
'86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver
'84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car
'87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car
AdeM@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:54:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: Injection diagram for 18RGEU
To: Toyota Mods 

> Hey everyone, Just curious of what is out there in non- USA model 3SGTE
> (turbo)
> don't have alot of info on this motor, especially the Japanese model
>
> Brad
> BradBedell@msn.com
> 91' MKII turbo

where are you?

Ade
Adem@wairc.govt.nz
New Zealand

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: Re: Convertable Mk I MR2
To: squelch@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (John Welch)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:30:08 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Yes! Yes! Yes! Please do post *anything* that you can think of concerning 
a kit such as this. Does it involve special ordering - ie: they take the 
order, then produce the top and the subframe? Or is it something that 
they did a 'run' of, and when they run out they have to either decide to 
make more, or stop making them atogether (and only make *expensive* 
special orders)?

Does the car have to start life as a t-top vehicle? It would seem logical 
that if you cut off the center bar, you already have 95% of the front 
connection point, including the holes for securing the top and most of 
the weatherstripping. Does the Mk I MR2 t-top vehicle already have any 
extra structural 'enhancements'?

The more information the better. I would expect that '87 t-tops here in 
America should be coming down real hard, and might even hit the sub-$2500 
rnage in the next few months. Good condition '85 with sunroofs in good 
condition have already reached the $1750-$2000 range (in certain parts 
of the country).

I think I might have a winter proejct. :)

Steve B.

> 
> You wrote: 
> 
> >Now to the "juicy" question, this may sound a little strange but I 
> think a
> >convertable MR2 (Mk I ) would look cool, so I am thinking about it. 
> Has
> >any one ever heard of this being done, a rag top MR2 !!!
> >If so did it effect the handling or the stability of the car ?
> >
> >Todd Campbell
> >Omaha,NE
> 
> Todd there is a company out of Minnesota that sells a convertable kit 
> for the MKI's.....
> It looks GREAT !
> It includes a subframe to be welded in under the car and all trim 
> pieces.  I'll try to find my information and photos when I at home 
> tonight.
> 
> John Welch
> 

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: always getting undeliverable mail?
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:08:42 -0400 (EDT)

Every time I've sent a message to toyota-mods, I seem to always be 
getting an 'undeliverable mail' message back from the majordomo. The mail 
goest to toyota-mods and the person directly, as I wanted, but I still 
seem to get a 'phantom' undeliverable message.

Anybody else getting this?

Steve B.

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Date: 19 Jul 1996 16:32:41 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: always getting undeliver
To: "Steve Bagdon" ,

 Reply to:     RE>always getting undeliverable mail?

Steve, you wrote:
>Every time I've sent a message to toyota-mods, I seem to always be 
getting an 'undeliverable mail' message back from the majordomo.

Yep, same here.
erik.berg@trw.com

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 00:05:52 GMT
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Kevin Annfield 
Subject: Sorry I lied

Sorry to all those people that I lied to. I was taking the advice of the
importer who I bought the engine off when I said it had a twenty valve head.
It has got a yahama head on it but very dissapointly only 8 vavles. The main
reason I am writing this is I still need the wiring diagram for the engine
18RGEU. I found out it is from a 1984 Carina GT. Matti may you have
something on this from your Carina?? I hope from my little white lie that
you all take me serious because I really need the diagram. There is nowhere
here where I can get it. Please HELP

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 20:24:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: Lexus AFM notes

   Well...  I took my car in yesterday to my local mechanic to have my
power steering hose replaced (it was leaking pretty bad) and have my rear
brake pads replaced.  I showed him the Lexus AFM I bought in preparation
for the Lexus AFM/Lucas injectors upgrade that Reg has on his car, since I
thought it was pretty cool to compare the size of the Lexus AFM to that of
the stock 7MGTE one. 

   Anyway, I came back this evening to pick the car up, and he casually
mentions that he had to replace the worm clamp in order to get the Lexus
AFM to fit!  At that point, I sort of freak, because I didn't want him to
actually put it ON yet, I just showed hit to him because I thought he
would like to see it.  The idea is, the Lexus AFM has a lower signal for 
given amount of air than the stock AFM, and then if you put larger 
injectors in the larger injectors need less signal to put out the same 
volume of fuel as the stock injectors, so the lower air flow signal and 
the lower fuel pulse width work together great.  I am currently still 
using the stock injectors (should get the bigger ones next week).

    Anyway, it turns out he did put it on, and I mentioned to him that I
was scared the engine was going to get detonation.  He said that he took
it out and did a full-throttle run with it and didn't hear any (and so far
this guy has impressed me with his knowledge, so I don't think he's a
moron).  Right now I've only got my boost set at .53 bar (7.8 PSI) anyway
(on HIGH) since at .54 I've hit fuel cut before.  He also said that in 
closed-loop mode the ECU will read the O2 sensor and automatically 
compensate for lean conditions by increasing the injector pulse width, 
which should be correct.  This doesn't improve WOT conditions though, 
which just rely on a map.

   So, I decide since he's already done a full-throttle blast, I might as
well drive it and see for myself (not hard though).  I figure that as
tough as I've had the motor built I should at least be able to take a test
drive with it running lean.  So I take it easy for a few miles.  I can
tell the engine is running leaner, the idle surges around 500-600 rpm
since it's not getting enough fuel.  The engine note is a bit different, 
more hollow-sounding maybe.

    Since I don't notice any real engine problems (no knocking/pinging,
temperature is fine, engine sounds fine), I drive for about 15 minutes
then decide I've got to see if the fuel cut is indeed at least higher.
So I set the EVC to manual mode at .40 bar (5.9 PSI), get on the highway, 
put it in third gear and slowly floor it.  At .40 bar everything is fine, 
and I manually adjust up .01 bar at a time until about .70 bar, which is 
when the EVC's built in overboost protection kicked in.  I forgot I had 
it set around .65 bar, since previously I was hitting fuel cut around 
.68.  Since nothing untoward happened until then, I went ahead and 
adjusted the EVC high setting to .75 bar (11.0 PSI) and overboost to .85 
bar.  Then I again put it in third gear and slowly floored it.  It went 
up to .75 bar just fine with no sign of fuel cut, when previously I was 
hitting fuel cut at .68 bar.

     I let off, then did two or three more moderate runs to gauge
performance.  Performance does seem off, which shouldn't be too
surprising.  It feels a tad slower than before, maybe just a result of me
taking it easy on it, but as the boost rises I don't feel like I'm getting
the power I should, which again shouldn't be too surprising. 

    Anyway, now I've got to decide if I want to a) replace it with the 
stock AFM now myself, b) wait until Monday to have him do it, c) put the 
Lexus electronics on the AFM and see if it compensates (right now I have 
the stock AFM electronics on the Lexus AFM housing), or d) just take it 
easy until I get the injectors next week.

Aaron B.
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 21:05:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: Re: Lexus AFM notes

   I did some quick calculations to figure out just what is really going 
on.  The stoichiometric ratio for air to fuel (ratio at which there is 
exactly enough air to burn all the fuel) is like 14.5:1, if I remember 
correctly.  At WOT (wide-open-throttle) cars generally go to 12:1 in 
order to ensure that every bit of air has fuel molecules nearby to burn, 
to produce maximum power.

   Now, since the Lexus AFM is about 25% bigger than the stock 7MGTE one,
it will let in 1.25 times as much air as the stock one for the same air
flow signal.  That means that when the ECU thinks it is running the engine
at 12:1 air/fuel, it really is running it at 12*1.25:1 air/fuel, which is
the same as 15:1.  It's not like I'm running 18:1 or 20:1 -- well, maybe
at idle I am, but between the ECU/O2 compensation and the way this car is
built to handle high amounts of boost, I can't imagine that the low stress
of idle even at 18:1 would cause any problems. 

   So I don't think there's much likelihood I'm going to damage my engine
running this way, assuming I don't crazy with it and abuse it or run high
boost levels above what the stock fuel system can handle.  It will run
hotter, obviously, but I've got Water Wetter and super-synthetic oil (best
money can buy) so I think I'm probably ok, again assuming I don't go crazy
with it.  I'm turning the EVC off though so that I stay at stock boost 
levels.

Aaron B.
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:05:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mike Kronvold 
To: Aaron Buhr 
Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: Re: Lexus AFM notes

On Fri, 19 Jul 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote:
>     Anyway, now I've got to decide if I want to a) replace it with the 
> stock AFM now myself, b) wait until Monday to have him do it, c) put the 
> Lexus electronics on the AFM and see if it compensates (right now I have 
> the stock AFM electronics on the Lexus AFM housing), or d) just take it 
> easy until I get the injectors next week.
> Aaron B.
> 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo

     Patience... wait for the injectors...

     *drool*

    - Mike

--
Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623
Road racers go in deep and come out hard.    1992 Toyota Supra Turbo
    I don't drive fast, I fly low

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 09:17:51 -0500
To: richard@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: MR2 Convertable Image!

>Hey guys,
>
>You wanted it, here's a copy of the MR2 convertable image.
>
>I can't find my other one - it's a side shot - but you get the idea.
>
>Was there anyone else who wanted a copy of this?  My mail went down
>for a couple of days, and I might have missed someone.
>
>Cheers
>
>Richard
>
>--
> Richard Parry.
> Tonic for the thinking man.              richard@acheron.actrix.gen.nz

For some reason, I have serious problems uudecoding files when they are
'appended' to the text, rather then 'atttached' to the message. If anyone
out there is using a Mac or PC, and has this file uudecoded properly, AND
they have the ability to 'attach' files to their e-mail message (not
uuencoded, but attached), please send me a copy.

Thanks.

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 12:26:41 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall)
Subject: MK1 air filter & Thankyou

        First I would like to thank all of you who replied about my
alternator being the cause of my dash lights It was totally destroyed. 
Then my starter went so about $500cnd later I have a new starter and
alternator.

        I'm searching for a performance air filter that replaces the airbox
for my Mk1 MR2. I currently have the K&N inbox filter but would like to
upgrade further by removing the airbox.  I've seen an ad in Sport car
compact for a filter and adaptor for $75.US has anyone used this.  Does
Select Sales have one that will fit and how much will it cost ? Any other
recomendations are appreciated.

        A friend of mine just bought a 86 corolla GTS rwd. We've raced a
few times and I've beaten him every time but only by a car length or so. Is
this to be expected if so why?? and what can I do to increase the margine
by which I win. I've adjusted the AFM as reccomended in the TP Handbook but
I'm unshurs which EGR hose I should plug ? 

                                        Thanks for you help

                                                Dave McCristall
 McCristall

Telephone 604 533-4098 
Fax  604 533-7998

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:05:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rees 
To: Mods Toyota 
Subject: Overheating

Hey there guys,
	I've got a little problem which I am confused about.  I've got an 
'81 Celica GT, and it runs ok, but it runs hot!  It's not that bad, it 
won't overheat except in traffic with the AC on.  It's been doing this 
for as long as I've had the car, (almost four years now), and I've 
changed all the major cooling components, radiater (was plugged pretty 
good), water pump (bearings were wearing out), and thermostat.  I've even 
added Water Wetter.  But still, it runs on the hot side while doing 
freeway driving (65-80 mph) especially with the AC on.  Could it be that 
the head has a crack in it?  Later, Dave

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: 3S-GTE differences
To: mr2-interest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (mr2),
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 01:48:40 +0300 (EET DST)

Somebody asked about the differences of the 200hp 3S-GTE's versus
newer 240-250hp ones. This information is about the ones installed
in Celica GT-4's but the same should be true for MR2's too.

1) Compression ratio was lowered from 8.8 to 8.5
2) intercooler was improved, allowing higher boost
3) intake valve lift increased from 8.2 to 8.7mm
4) T-VIS was discarded, and intake chamber enlarged from 1.16l to 1.46l
5) turbo was modified: shaft was made thinner and turbine wheel made
   smaller. Flow capacity was increased from 26.4 to 37 lbs/min.

I compared the power curves of both versions, and these modifications
definately helped power above 5500rpm, while the boost increase
raised the curve all over. Dunno about the low end though (who cares).

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up...
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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From: Matti Kalalahti 
Subject: Re: Overheating
To: drees@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (David Rees)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 02:06:10 +0300 (EET DST)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list)

> Hey there guys,
> 	I've got a little problem which I am confused about.  I've got an 
> '81 Celica GT, and it runs ok, but it runs hot!  It's not that bad, it 
> won't overheat except in traffic with the AC on.  It's been doing this 
> for as long as I've had the car, (almost four years now), and I've 
> changed all the major cooling components, radiater (was plugged pretty 
> good), water pump (bearings were wearing out), and thermostat.  I've even 
> added Water Wetter.  But still, it runs on the hot side while doing 
> freeway driving (65-80 mph) especially with the AC on.  Could it be that 
> the head has a crack in it?  Later, Dave

-lean mixture (check plugs right after highway driving when it runs hot)
-wrong ignition timing (check with timing light)
-slipping belt (check tension)
-faulty thermostat (these are often faulty even new, check that it opens
 at the right tempereature by boiling it in a cup with thermometer)
-radiator cap not holding enough pressure
-faulty sensor/meter
-air in the cooling system
-low oil level
-blown head gasket or cracked block/head (will cause coolant loss
 and white smoke from exhaust even with warm engine)

How hot is on the hot side?

-- 
Matti Kalalahti     | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82
k124476@ee.tut.fi   | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up...
A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 19:26:05 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: "Ronald C. Thompson" 
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     : Ronald Thompson
Location :	Kingston, Jamaica
Model    :	1990 Nissan Sunny Super Saloon E
Engine   :	???
Mods     :	None
email    :Ronald@toj.com
                                           '''
                                          (o o)
--------------------------------------ooO--(_)--Ooo------
Ronald C. Thompson
(ronald@toj.com)

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 19:30:51 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: "Ronald C. Thompson" 
Subject: Starlet GT

Hi.. does anyone know anything about the Starlet GT?

It is a 'normal' 3 door starlet that Toyota has stuffed a 4E-FTE engine in.

I am looking for more detailed specs on the engine. Here is what I know so far..

1.3litre 16valve engine, Turbocharged, Intercooled, 133BHP, 116lb-ft.

Does anyone have anything ELSE on this engine/car that would be of help? I
am thinking of changing my present car to this beast and would appreciate
any further information to help me make up my mind. 

Thanks in advance.
                                           '''
                                          (o o)
--------------------------------------ooO--(_)--Ooo------
Ronald C. Thompson
(ronald@toj.com)

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 20:59:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Buhr 
To: Toyota Supras Mailing List ,
Subject: Lexus AFM off (for now... heh heh heh)

   This morning I switched the electronics module on the (Lexus) AFM from
the stock one to the Lexus one (I think...  I believe the mechanic put the
stock electronics on the Lexus AFM, as I had mentioned to him).  I drove
around (carefully!) today, and I really didn't see any significant
difference between the Lexus electronics and the stock 7MGTE electronics. 
Then, this evening I decided enough fooling around, and I put the stock
AFM back on, for now...  I want my injectors... *grin*

Aaron B.

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: braided brake lines illegal???
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 22:28:37 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu

Hello,
	Someone mentioned recently that stainless steel brake lines were
illegal in their state.  How can I find out if they are illegal in New York? 
I really need to know soon, since someone wants to sell me some.

					Thanks,
		
					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 21:11:46 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Richard Ngun 
Subject: Celica Performance

Does anyone know what the differences are between my 1990 Celica GTS and a
similar model in Japan?

Also, what kind of mods do I need to increase the horsepower in my car.  130
horses for a 2.2 litre engine sounds like it could be optimized further.

Thank-you for any suggestions.
                        oOOOo 
                       | O o |  "Mistakes? Impossible!  I
                        \ ' /    have an error correcting
                        /   \    modem!"
                     oOO     OOo
                    V A N C O U V E R  C A N U C K S ' 9 6

                        .-=[ rngun@intergate.bc.ca ]=-.

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Date: 20 Jul 1996 22:11:34 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: braided brake lines ille
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" 

 Reply to:     RE>braided brake lines illegal???

Illegal is such a strong word.

Last time I put stainless braided teflon brake hoses on a street car, my 
mechanic at the time said something like "well, you know they're not DOT 
approved".  And we had a good laugh.  I mean, who cares whether they're 
DOT approved?

As long as they are in good condition, are the right length (both too long and 
too short are BAD) and are installed correctly, they are going to be at least as 
reliable as the stock item, and furthermore they might even improve your 
stopping distance, by improving your feel of what the brakes are doing. 

Is any peace officer going to look under your car, to check if you have DOT 
approved brake hoses?  It is very difficult to imagine.  And even in the remote 
chance that they did, it's just a fix-it ticket, right?  It's not that big of a deal.

I would worry more about whether they are the correct length, and have the 
correct fittings on the ends.  Whether they're safe or not is more important 
than whether they're legal or not.

Just my $.02... 
erik.berg@trw.com

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From: Richard Parry 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date:          Sun, 21 Jul 1996 18:45:07 +1200
Subject:       Re: Celica Performance

Hi Richard;

On 20 Jul 96, Richard Ngun wrote about Celica Performance:

> Does anyone know what the differences are between my 1990 Celica GTS
> and a similar model in Japan?

Not much - my best guess is (based on my own GTR from Japan, and 
local ones) that yours *should* be if anything a little more grunty.

In Japan, they've got some nasty emmissions controls, which make them 
a little less snappy over locally purchased machines.

I know in the US you've also got emissions controls, but I don't 
*think* they're as harsh.

> Also, what kind of mods do I need to increase the horsepower in my
> car.  130 horses for a 2.2 litre engine sounds like it could be
> optimized further.

Where do you want to start?  :)

Richard

--
 Richard Parry.
 Tonic for the thinking man.              richard@acheron.actrix.gen.nz

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:18:15 +1200
To: "Ronald C. Thompson" ,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Re: Starlet GT

Ronald wrote:

>Hi.. does anyone know anything about the Starlet GT?
>1.3litre 16valve engine, Turbocharged, Intercooled, 133BHP, 116lb-ft.
>Does anyone have anything ELSE on this engine/car that would be of help? I
>am thinking of changing my present car to this beast and would appreciate
>any further information to help me make up my mind. 

My one eyed viewpont yet again - if your car is FWD (suspect it is) why not
shoehorn supercharged 4AGE motor and 'box in - heaps of grunt/torque and it
will be ultra reliable. You could probably find a bellhousing that would let
you bolt sraight up to your gearbox, altho' the box may not last long! Given
the commonality between some corolla/starlet engines there's probably off
the shelf parts you can rustle up a bolt in conversion from. I know this
motor has been put in Corrollas in Aussie, dunno how much tighter space is
for you.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
20 Valve Lotus 7 Replica

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Subject: Re: braided brake lines illegal???
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 96 13:24:05 -0700
From: "John F. Page" 
To: "aly abulkheir" ,

>Hello,
>	Someone mentioned recently that stainless steel brake lines were
>illegal in their state.  How can I find out if they are illegal in New York? 
>I really need to know soon, since someone wants to sell me some.
>

I believe that all brake lines are supposed to be DOT approved/legal. I 
had a set of braided lines for my 94 Supra TT made up and istalled but I 
don't think they're legal. The chances of anyone finding out and caring 
are absolutely remote.

John Page - 94 TT
Information provided is given free of charge in good faith without 
prejudice.

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:50:39 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Re: Starlet GT

Ronald wrote:

>Hi.. does anyone know anything about the Starlet GT?
>1.3litre 16valve engine, Turbocharged, Intercooled, 133BHP, 116lb-ft.
>Does anyone have anything ELSE on this engine/car that would be of help? I
>am thinking of changing my present car to this beast and would appreciate
>any further information to help me make up my mind. 

My one eyed viewpont yet again - if your car is FWD (suspect it is) why not
shoehorn supercharged 4AGE motor and 'box in - heaps of grunt/torque and it
will be ultra reliable. You could probably find a bellhousing that would let
you bolt sraight up to your gearbox, altho' the box may not last long! Given
the commonality between some corolla/starlet engines there's probably off
the shelf parts you can rustle up a bolt in conversion from. I know this
motor has been put in Corrollas in Aussie, dunno how much tighter space is
for you.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
20 Valve Lotus 7 Replica

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Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 16:59:13 -0400
From: Chris Myer 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: TM List Problems

Hello All:

This is just to let you know that we seem to have the problems with the email
here on cyberauto.com in hand, if not completely corrected.  Unfortunately, 
these things happen in the happy world of computers.

I know this caused some pain for a few folks, but be assured it wasn't as 
painful for you as it was for us!

Right now, we're transitioning the computer that serves both TM and Cyberspace
Automotive Performance over from a Sun 4/330 running SunOS 4.1.4 to a P5/100
running RedHat Linux 2.0.  As soon as we do that, we're going to look for 
another internet service provider.  Our ISP is 90% of the reason for the recent
email explosions.

Once again, thank's for your patience as we've worked on this problem.

Chris

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Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 17:16:28 -0400
From: Chris Myer 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Central Florida Toyota Modder's Meeting

Well, yesterdays Central Florida TM meeting was a lot of fun, and the excitement
continues today!

As everyone saw, Fred O. posted that he'd be in Orlando this week and weekend for
a business conference, and wanted to know if anyone would be interested in getting
together.  Chris Morgan, Tom Julien, and myself accepted, and we set the meeting
time for 7:00pm Saturday night.  However, I just couldn't go to a TM meeting without
buying myself a new Toyota, so I set up a meeting to see a 77 LIFTBACK CELICA GT 
that was for sale near Chris Morgan's house.  Well, thanks to Chris Morgan's sharp
eye, I'm now the owner of a car that I've wanted since I was a kid in high school.
This baby was in excellent shape.  Very little rust, and only a small bit of body
damage.  Engine ran well and the A/C even worked.  How much?  Singaporeans may
want to skip the rest of this....Asking price was $750, I offered $450 and the
fellow handed me the keys!  I'm stoked!

On to our meeting, 40 minutes late.  Met Fred and his business partner, had a grand
time, harrassed the entire staff of the Darryl's Restaurant we were at before we
finally left.  Chris breaks out the Toyota Pictures...his 73 coupe, his 79 Sunchaser,
his 85 GTS Convertible (which we drove to the meeting.)  The Sunchaser is a work of
art.  Absolutely beautiful head-turner.  We took that to look at the 77 I bought
earlier.  As we discussed the TM group, Ade's name came up.  I just happened to
have the pic's of her and her MR2 in my Franklin Planner, so those then went around
the table.  (*WHOO WHOO!!*)

We broke up just before midnight, after Fred offered to drive my new (to me) 77
Liftback over to my house on Sunday (today.)  Almost made it, too!  About 3 miles
from the house the lower radiator hose blew, and that's where we're at now.  I
had to come in to work this afternoon, so Fred is out changing the radiator hose on
my car on the side of I-95!  Hey, I told him to wait until after I got off work, 
but he insisted.

Well, better get back to work and quit goofing off...

Chris

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:38:46 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Pyyvaara 
To: Steve Bagdon 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: always getting undeliverable mail?

On Fri, 19 Jul 1996, Steve Bagdon wrote:

> Every time I've sent a message to toyota-mods, I seem to always be 
> getting an 'undeliverable mail' message back from the majordomo. The mail 
> goest to toyota-mods and the person directly, as I wanted, but I still 
> seem to get a 'phantom' undeliverable message.

Please forward any administrative requests such as this to
toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com rather than to the whole list and I will
then investigate.

A copy of the bounced message would also help me in tracking down any
problems...

  Paul.
 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-=
 =-=-B O N D  U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 17:56:37 +1200
To: LIAM VENTER ,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Re: Toyota-powered kit cars

People!

A mailing list called 'kitracers' has been established for kit cars by Liam
Venter (ex mods member) assisted by Phil Bradshaw and Ade Mora. The
intention of the news group is to provide a technically orientated
discussion format for people interested in 'building, modifying and racing'
kit cars and home built specials anywhere in the world. 

Common cars of interest are Caterhams, Frasers, Leitches, Mallocks, SCANZ
cars, Sylvas, Westfields, etc, etc. (please note these cars are listed in
alphabetical order).

For technical reasons the list is a 'closed' one and to join you must
subscribe to Liam at  and supply details much as you do for
the mods list. It is hoped to get a worldwide membership going.

Please pass the word!

Phil Bradshaw
Liam Venter
Ade Mora
Steve White

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 07:49:24 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: FS: Mk II front-bumper bra

It came with the car when I bought it, and I haven't put it one once. If
anyone is interested, I'll try to figure out if it's Toyota or not, and
test fit it. Has an MR2 label on the front - like we didn't know. :)

Make me an offer, it's just taking up space in my garage.

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 06:43:13 -0700
From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch )
Subject: Topless !
To: Todd.A.Campbell@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

OK here's the info.
The companies name is Auto Tek they are based out of Georgia.  I spoke 
with a gentleman today and he said that he hasen't had the kit in stock 
in a while.  He is going to check on its availablity for me.   He 
stated that the price of the kit, as he rembered it, was about $2800.00
 We talked for about half an hour about the kit, he was very excited 
about it and said it was one of the best convertable conversions he had 
done.  He is going to FAX me anything he finds... so as soon as I get 
it I'll pass it on !  Mabey if we order a few kits we can get a 
discount !

John Welch
'86 4-Runner
'87 MR-2 Turbo
'78 Triumph Spitfire 

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: Ragtops?
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 07:35:00 PDT

>>Sounds great, let's see some pictures of these rare cars.
>>
>>We only get to see the standard MR2 coupe and the MR2 T-Bar. It's like =
being 
>on
>>a desert island knowing that there are all these different models of =
the 
>MR2's.
>>I have seen a single MR2 T-Bar Supercharger but that just looks like =
a normal
>>Mr2 T-Bar with a badge on it.

>What about the engine lid, it isn't raised? And there aren't any markers=
 on
>the sides and the lip of the rear trunk lid?

>Steve B.

>bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
>http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
>Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
>-----------
>'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
>Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
>Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
>Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D

Ok, so I did under exagerate the supercharged Mr2 it does have a differen=
t 
raised engine compartment and different rear number plate surrounding. =
But 
these are not particularly parts of the car that would turn your head, =
now a 
convertible or a customised Mr2 would. I was just trying to make the poin=
t that 
the two main Mr2's we have here are the standard Mr2, the T-Bar and very =
few 
supercharged versions. They all look very similar.

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	107000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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To: William Hall ,
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: Ragtop MR2
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 07:42:14 PDT

Please do sent me the jpeg, I love to see all the different types of 
mr2 available. I used to have an Mr2 T-Bar, best car i've ever 
driven handling wise although not enough power really for the 
handling capabilities. I suppose that's why they created the 
supercharged/Turbo charged versions.

So why didn't Europe see them?
What is the Twin charger? I think I saw it in a magazine somewhere 
but i'm not sure (Two superchargers!?).

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	107000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: always getting undeliverable mail?
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 07:46:09 PDT

Every time I've sent a message to toyota-mods, I seem to always be 
getting an 'undeliverable mail' message back from the majordomo. The mail 
goest to toyota-mods and the person directly, as I wanted, but I still 
seem to get a 'phantom' undeliverable message.

Anybody else getting this?

Steve B.

=============================================================================

Yes I do.

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	107000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:08:51 -0700
From: Gerald San Agustin 
To: Tony York 
Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Ragtop MR2

Tony York wrote:
> 
> Please do sent me the jpeg, I love to see all the different types of
> mr2 available. I used to have an Mr2 T-Bar, best car i've ever
> driven handling wise although not enough power really for the
> handling capabilities. I suppose that's why they created the
> supercharged/Turbo charged versions.
> 
> So why didn't Europe see them?
> What is the Twin charger? I think I saw it in a magazine somewhere
> but i'm not sure (Two superchargers!?).
> 
> Tony York
> 
> 1 Woodley Chase
> Duston
> Northampton
> England
> NN5 6PS
> 
> Tel: 01604 586200
> Email: york@radstone.co.uk
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Car:    Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
> Colour: White
> Engine: 4A-GE
> Mods:   JR Bolt on Air Filter
> Miles:  107000
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Twincharger is a turbo and a supercharger simultaneously.

Gerald San Agustin
88 MR2 Twincharger
Cyber Racing, So Cal

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 11:27:01 -0400
From: "Joe Braga" 
Subject: Re: Topless !
To: "John Welch" ,

What about a "Targa Top MR2". Has anyone ever seen one ? $$$ ?

------------------------------
Date: 7/22/96 10:24 AM
To: Braga, Joe
From: John Welch

OK here's the info.
The companies name is Auto Tek they are based out of Georgia.  I spoke 
with a gentleman today and he said that he hasen't had the kit in stock 
in a while.  He is going to check on its availablity for me.   He 
stated that the price of the kit, as he rembered it, was about $2800.00
 We talked for about half an hour about the kit, he was very excited 
about it and said it was one of the best convertable conversions he had 
done.  He is going to FAX me anything he finds... so as soon as I get 
it I'll pass it on !  Mabey if we order a few kits we can get a 
discount !

John Welch
'86 4-Runner
'87 MR-2 Turbo
'78 Triumph Spitfire 

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Date:Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:43:13 -0400
Message-Id: <199607221343.GAA20861@dfw-ix6.ix.netcom.com>
From: squelch@ix.netcom.com (John Welch )
Subject: Topless !
To: Todd.A.Campbell@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com
Precedence: bulk

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: Re: Topless !
To: squelch@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (John Welch)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 12:44:34 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> OK here's the info.
> The companies name is Auto Tek they are based out of Georgia.  I spoke 
> with a gentleman today and he said that he hasen't had the kit in stock 
> in a while.  He is going to check on its availablity for me.   He 
> stated that the price of the kit, as he rembered it, was about $2800.00
>  We talked for about half an hour about the kit, he was very excited 
> about it and said it was one of the best convertable conversions he had 
> done.  He is going to FAX me anything he finds... so as soon as I get 
> it I'll pass it on !  Mabey if we order a few kits we can get a 
> discount !
> 
> John Welch
> '86 4-Runner
> '87 MR-2 Turbo
> '78 Triumph Spitfire 
> 

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: Re: FS: Mk II front-bumper bra
To: Dysart@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Dysart, Glenn B.)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 12:48:57 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Thanks. Well, maybe I should clarify it then - if anyone with a '91 or 
'92 Mk II MR2 needs a bra, let me know. BTW, I have the turbo, and I 
don't know if the bra is specifically for a turbo or not - I fear it may 
have something to do with the fog-lights. I'll try test-fitting it on the 
car tonight.

I guess my main intention was to see if anyone out there wants one or not.

Steve B.

> 
> Steve, just to let you know if its the one the one for your 91.  It will 
> only fit the 91 and 92 models.  The 93 - 95 models is a different bra.
> 
> Glenn Dysart
> dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil
> 
> 93 MR2 turbo
> 87 Corolla SR5
>  ----------
> 
> >It came with the car when I bought it, and I haven't put it one once. If
> >anyone is interested, I'll try to figure out if it's Toyota or not, and
> >test fit it. Has an MR2 label on the front - like we didn't know. :)
> 

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From: "Dysart, Glenn B." 
To: Toyota Mods 
Subject: RE: FS: Mk II front-bumper bra
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 11:29:00 PDT

Steve, just to let you know if its the one the one for your 91.  It will 
only fit the 91 and 92 models.  The 93 - 95 models is a different bra.

Glenn Dysart
dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil

93 MR2 turbo
87 Corolla SR5
 ----------

>It came with the car when I bought it, and I haven't put it one once. If
>anyone is interested, I'll try to figure out if it's Toyota or not, and
>test fit it. Has an MR2 label on the front - like we didn't know. :)

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 18:46:04 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary)
Subject: Re: braided brake lines ille

>Is any peace officer going to look under your car, to check if you have DOT
>approved brake hoses?  It is very difficult to imagine.  And even in the
>remote

Cops would never see it, no, but I could imagine the car failing the NY
safety inspection  for illegal brake lines.  Around here the cars go up on
a lift for inspection and get a pretty thorough look.  However, I suspect
if there was a problem, you could shop around a little and find a garage
where the mechanic agreed with you and let it slide.  I'm sure racers
wouldn't trust their lives to the braided lines if they weren't pretty
reliable.

Michael Leary
Ithaca NY
1987 Corolla GT-S (E Stock)

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Date: 22 Jul 1996 18:31:02 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: braided brake lines ill
To: "toyota mods" 

 Reply to:     RE>>braided brake lines ille

Michael,
>I could imagine the car failing the NY safety inspection for illegal brake lines.  Around here the cars go up on a lift for inspection and get a pretty thorough look.

Egad!  And I thought CA was bad.  I'm glad I don't have any of my cars registered in NY.

Pretty soon, unless we can stifle our regulation-happy legislators, we'll have a situation in the US like in Japan, and we'll end up throwing our cars away after three years.
erik.berg@trw.com

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 18:07:48 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Mark Forder 
Subject: MKI ignition NOT dead now

Hi all,

Thanks for all your suggestions to my problem. It has actually turned out to
be a faulty ECU. The igniton fuse had blown for some reason, once replaced
the car seemed ok, but during the road test the car died twice. It appears
the problem was fuel pump related, in that there was no signal from the ECU
to the fuel pump to turn on. I don't know the full details of what was
fixed, but I imagine it may have been a dry joint or something.

I still don't have the car back, as they are replacing the fuel pump as
well, as it was noisier than it should have been.

Thanks again,

Mark

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 09:19:44 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Joseph Horton  (by way of "Christopher P. Myer" )
Subject: (Help me to) cool it!

   Seeing the talk of engines running hot has reminded me of my own car...

   The car is a '73 Land Cruiser, which originally had a straight-six engine.
Before I bought it, the engine mounts were changed to fit a Chevy small block
V8, and it came with a 350. With the old engine, the car could flow with
highway traffic at 75+ mph, with bursts to over 85.
   Then the engine seized. (In all fairness to GM, I'd been beating on it all
day, driving in a convoy on the highway. No overdrive, 4.11 gears, and 4000
to 5000 rpm for 1-2 hours at a time, all day. Wish I'd checked the oil a little
more often...)
   Here is the weird part: I had the seized engine replaced with a new 350,
which I thought was identical to the old one except for a mild Edelbrock intake.
(The old one was not 'built', as far as I know). The cooling system was not
changed. Yet now I can only do 60-65 mph without the car heating up; if I
drive over 65 for any significant period of time, it overheats and starts to
boil over and lose coolant.
   The cooling system, BTW, is stock Toyota except for a Chevy water pump
and a custom fan shroud. The thermostat is a 160 degree unit.

1. Why does it overheat with the new engine, when it didn't with the old one?

2. What can I do about it? I've considered switching to a 5-row or aluminum
radiator (currently 3 row iron or steel), or a stronger water pump, or removing
the thermostat, or using something different (adding Water Wetter?) in the
radiator.

Thanks in advance...
Chuck

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To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" 
From: Tony York 
Subject: Re: braided brake lines ill
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 07:36:52 PDT

> Reply to:     RE>>braided brake lines ille

>Michael,
>>I could imagine the car failing the NY safety inspection for 
>illegal
>brake lines.  Around here the cars go up on a lift for inspection 
>and
>get a pretty thorough look.

>Egad!  And I thought CA was bad.  I'm glad I don't have any of my 
>cars
>registered in NY.

>Pretty soon, unless we can stifle our regulation-happy legislators,
>we'll have a situation in the US like in Japan, and we'll end up
>throwing our cars away after three years.
>erik.berg@trw.com

===================================================================

This is amazing, they actually check your car on a ramp and if the 
car is not to their liking even if the mod makes the car safer they 
will stop you driving it !

The only thing we have in England is an "MOT" once a year on cars 
over 3 years old. Is this the same sort of thing ?

Usually if the mod makes the car safer it's just called a modified 
car and they slap up the insurance (buggers).

Tony York

1 Woodley Chase
Duston
Northampton
England
NN5 6PS

Tel: 01604 586200
Email: york@radstone.co.uk
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Car:	Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V.
Colour:	White
Engine:	4A-GE
Mods:	JR Bolt on Air Filter
Miles:	107000
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 15:43:42 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: Rebuild/ more Beans!!

Ok, the cars mileage is getting up there, and i will have to do a rebuild in
the coming months. A stock rebuild is out of the question!!! Is there a
source for oversized pistons?, I am going to send the head out, I usually
just send it to Juans MAchine shop in Miami for a vale job, But is there a
shop In South Florida that Specializes in toyota/Jap cars??? 
Also....how hard would it be to Shove a MK2 turbo engine into a MK1 body?
I bet I could locate a Munched Mk2 turbo In Miami for less than the cost of
a good rebuild.I am talking the whole enchalada, electronics, intercooler
and all...
Please help...
also do these cars share the same block/tranny mounts? Or will there be a
Mig Gun involved?

Getting silly in the keys...Lobster season and all!!!
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net
87 Mister 2 n/a  Black
 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
Benjamin Franklin.

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 15:05:37 -0500
From: Philip Cutajar 
To: MR2-Digest ,
Subject: Sizing alternate Wheels/Tires

Greetings,
I hope this is not too vague...I have a friend who is looking for 
software or formulas to calcuate alternative wheel/tire combinations for 
various cars.

I seem to recall seeing something mentioned somewhere about a program 
where you can give it current wheel/tire size and the program will 
calculate different wheel and tire sizes that will fit without affecting 
the speedometer.

If anyone knows where I can get this program, please e-email directly to 
me...

Thanks in advance. Phil.

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:27:06 +1200
To: Philip Cutajar ,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Re: Sizing alternate Wheels/Tires

Phil #1 on Toyota Mods said:

>Greetings,
>I hope this is not too vague...I have a friend who is looking for 
>software or formulas to calcuate alternative wheel/tire combinations for 
>various cars.
>
>I seem to recall seeing something mentioned somewhere about a program 
>where you can give it current wheel/tire size and the program will 
>calculate different wheel and tire sizes that will fit without affecting 
>the speedometer.

Phil #2 says:

I dunno about programs but any good tyre shop should be able to supply
rolling diameter specs for the tyres it sells. I would be a little dubious
about a program's ability as tyres from different manufacturers have
different dimensions - theoretically all say 195/60 x 14 tyres should be the
same dimensions, but actually vary. Some 185 tyres have wider tread that 195
- even though they are not 'supposed' to.

As far as I know, rolling diameter (excluding tyre squash due to car weight
- which you can assume to be consistent) can be figured thus: tread width x
aspect ratio gives sidewall height. Multiply this by 2 (two sidewalls
contribute to one diameter overall) and add to it the rim diameter.

Thus 195/60 x 14 equates to (195 x 0.6 x 2) + (14 x 25.4) = 589.6mm = 23.2
in. Multiply this by pi to give circumference = 3.1412 x 0.5896 = 1.85
metres, so for every revolution the wheel moves forwards by 1.85 metres.

My car does 6500 rpm in top gear at max speed - that is 6500/0.86 (fifth
gear ratio) = 7558 driveshaft rpm. This runs thru a 4.44 diff ratio so
divide 7558 by 4.44 to give 1702 axle rpm. This then means a wheel does 1702
rpm which is 1702 x 1.85 = 3149 metres/minute. Multiply by 60 (minutes in
hour) and divide by 1000 (metres in kilometre) and you get 188.95
kilometres/hour speed, which you can divide by 1.62 to give 116.6 mph. My
car indicates 115 mph at ths speed - not bad speedo calibration huh! You can
check speedo calibration if you rev counter is accurate. 

To compare a 185/70 x 13 tyre (what I used to have): (185 x 0.7 x 2)+ (13 x
25.4)= 589.2 mm diameter vs 589.6 mm for a 14 inch 60 profile - pretty close
to the same, especially once treadwear happens!

A friend runs the same box and diff as me, but 185/60 x 13 tyres: (185 x0.6
x 2) + (13 x 25.4) = 552.2 mm diameter vs my 589.6: now divide one by the
other: 552.2/589.6 = 0.936 ie his diameter is 0.936 or 93.6% of mine. Since
this directly relates to engine rpm, and our gear ratios are the same
(otherwise you have to account fo these in the same way) his engie will do
1/0.936 more rpm at the same speed in the same gear = 6940 rpm.

Alternatively if I put his wheels on my car, my speed would drop to 116.6 x
0.936 = 109.1 mph at the same revs (6500).

Hope this helps. Please contact me if you need any further assistance - I
dunno how much sense this makes! Tyre manufacturer figures for overall
diameter will be more exact, but the formulas above will help.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmeston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 valve

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From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 15:38:14 -0600
Subject: Re: (Help me to) cool it!
To: jah@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

A couple of questions and suggestions....

1) Is the engine overbored?  How much?
2) Have you checked the cooling system for pressure leaks & checked the cap?
3) Have you checked the mixture of anti-freeze & water?
4) have you bled the air out of the cooling system?
5) Is the engine broken in? (it will generate a little more heat while breaking 
in, then should stabilize.
6) are you using the correct rotation water pump (CW or CCW?)

Try drilling 2 small 1/8" or so holes in the body of the thermostat.  this will 
allow air pockets to pass, and thus it's easier to bleed.  Also if you coolant 
is OK, then try using Redline's Water Wetter - it will reduce temps by a couple 
of degrees.  The shroud is greeat...most people overlook that essental part of a 
cooling system.  Is the radiator in good condition?  a marginal radiator or fan 
clutch on a 'worn out' engine might be enough to cool, but on a tighter, 
overbored, re-built engine the colling system may be inadequate.  Check the fan 
clutch if so equipped.

Most of all Good luck....

- Brian

On Tue, 23 Jul 1996, Joseph Horton  (by way of "Christopher P. 
Myer" ) wrote:
>

>(The old one was not 'built', as far as I know). The cooling system was not
>changed. Yet now I can only do 60-65 mph without the car heating up; if I
>drive over 65 for any significant period of time, it overheats and starts to
>boil over and lose coolant.
>   The cooling system, BTW, is stock Toyota except for a Chevy water pump
>and a custom fan shroud. The thermostat is a 160 degree unit.

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:22:59 -0600
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford)
Subject: Re: Sizing alternate Wheels/Tires

Philip,

Good question and a hand calculator is all you need.  Perhaps the biggest
obstacle is the tire code and converting that information to the math.

In order not to change the speedometer, you want to try to match the total
diameter of the new wheel & tire with that of the original wheel & tire.
First, I'll calculate the original total diameter of tire & wheel, then
find the width of a new set of tires that should work the closest:

Total Diameter= 2 sidewalls + wheel diameter

Total Diameter= (2 x Tire width x 0.aspect ratio / 25.4 )  +  wheel diameter

Explanation by example:

Let's say the car came with 185/60 HR 14 tires.

*Tire width is 185 (mm)

*The aspect ratio allows you to figure the sidewall height.  If the aspect
ratio is 60, the height of one tire side is 0.60 times the tire width.
When the aspect ratio isn't given, it's usually 80, I believe (e.g. 155 SR
13).

*Multiply by 2 because there are 2 tire sides in the total diameter of the
tire & wheel.

*Divide by 25.4 to convert mm to inches

*Add the wheel diameter in inches (14 in this example).

=diameter of tire & wheel in inches.

When you have the diameter (in this case 22.7 in.), you can plug in that
value plus other parameters into the next equation (actually, the same
equation rearranged).  Let's say I want to know how wide to choose my 50
series tires on a 15 inch wheel, keeping as close as possible to the
original total diameter.

Width = (Total diameter - Wheel diameter) x 25.4 / 2 / Aspect ratio

Width = (22.7 in.       - 15 in.        ) x 25.4 / 2 / 0.50

      = about 195.

So, use 195/50 HR 15   (or VR or whatever).  Use the first equation to
calculate
the new total diameter and compare.

185/70 HR 14,    diameter is 22.74 in.
195/50 HR 15,    diameter is 22.68 in.

Very close, within 0.3%, which is nothing compared to tire inaccuracies, tire
wear etc.  With a little practice, you should be able to punch this formula
into a calclulater faster than the tire store guy can look it up.  Plus,
you can compare how close the diameters really are.

Monte

>Greetings,
>I hope this is not too vague...I have a friend who is looking for
>software or formulas to calcuate alternative wheel/tire combinations for
>various cars.
>
>I seem to recall seeing something mentioned somewhere about a program
>where you can give it current wheel/tire size and the program will
>calculate different wheel and tire sizes that will fit without affecting
>the speedometer.
>
>If anyone knows where I can get this program, please e-email directly to
>me...
>
>Thanks in advance. Phil.

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To: Philip Cutajar 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Sizing alternate Wheels/Tires 
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 96 09:02:08 +1000
From: Peter Mejak 

	Hi Philip,

	Re: tyre size calculations, try the following URL :-

	http://mr2.com/FORMS/tire.html

	There's another one out there as well which I like a bit better,
	but I can't find the URL at the moment.

	Cheers,

	Peter.

======================================================
Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia
peterm@aus.hp.com
======================================================

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 19:50:54 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: celicag@magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan)
Subject: expensive mistake

        Hello Group!
  One thing Mr Myer did'nt tell you about the toyota-mods meeting was
afterwards as we were heading home from the meeting I decided to drop the
top on the GTS convertable.I pulled over,released the latches,hit the
switch,and watched as it rose above our heads.Suddenly there was a loud bang
as the back glass shattered into 1.2 million pieces.I looked over at
Chris,said a word that rymes with truck,and proceeded to drive at lightspeed
home.I was mad at myself for not looking behind the seats to see that baby
booster seat was not in the way of the top.Too late!The last two days I've
been looking for replacement glass which must be handled by an upholstery
shop because of the convertable.Finally found one in New Hampshire for the
small price of $390 plus $110 for installation!A very costly mistake for
sure!So you lucky folks that own one of these cars,take real good care of
that back glass or you will find yourself in a world of hurt.Till next time.

Chris W Morgan
1979 Celica Sunchaser
1982 Celica GT Coupe
1984 Celica GT Hatchback
1985 Celica GTS Convertable (minus rear glass)

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:13:26 +1000
To: "" 
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Blow off valves
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Hiya Justin,
             From memory, the later Saab turbo's use a blow-off valve just
like the one you want. They work on the differential pressure between the
two sides of the butterfly.

Cop ya.

Bill S.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
             Dum volvo, video disco
               Em tasall, wantok.
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:13:58 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: The Guff.

Hiya all,
         Nothing of much interest, but I've had a busy week with cars.

Last Friday (19th), I ran my racing car (with the Suzuki GTi twin cam) at my
local race track, and it seemed to go quite well. I ran it for a total of
about 45 minutes over two sessions. Near the end of the second session, I
was going slowly to cool the tyres (and myself!:) and was just pottering
along at only 5000rpm or so, then the engine dropped onto three cylinders.
(Had been using 9500rpm before this) To cut a long story short, I pulled the
#2 spark plug out and found that the end of the plug looked like it had been
bashed with an ice-pick. Looking down into the cylinder, I could also see
the top of the con-rod .....  I then pulled the aircleaner box off and found
the head of an exhaust valve sitting there, along with about 2/3's of it's
seat. Hmmmm, not good, me thinks. FWIW, that's the second time it's done
that - Both times only at fairly sedate revs. 
I think that perhaps the Suzi exhaust valves aren't as good as they need to
be, so what the plan is is to use 4AGE exhaust valves which are the same
head diameter but with a 6.0mm dia stem Vs 5.5mm for the Suzi. I know that
4AGE valves are very strong, so maybe this will fix the problem.
I have a spare engine that I'm going to put in and run for a while to see
how they go fairly unmodified - It'll be almost dead standard except for new
manifolds and the dry-sump gear. I'll have to keep the revs down to only
8000, though. :(

Ok, then after I got home there was a phone call saying that my
step-mother's #1 son's car (A Datsun 240K) had stopped down the road. (FWIW,
it also got a ticket for excess exhaust smoke, and so needs a rebuild within
14 days to keep on the roads) My father & I went off to tow it back home and
swap cars so that #1 son could keep going. Did that, and managed to get the
240K back home with no further problems. 

The next day, (the 20th) my father was out getting some bits & pieces, then
on the way home the clutch cable snapped. (Ford Falcon EA turbo)
Fortunately, the car has a gearbox much like a truck and so you can change
gears pretty easily without having to use the clutch. (He got it home ok,
but we have an electric gate and he couldn't remember if he'd left it open
or not. (It wasn't) We live at the end of a cul-de-sack road, so he just
drove around in circles at the end of the road until the gate opened and
then drove in. :)

Then it was my turn to go for a drive in the AE-86 ......
Not the slightest problem, of course - It's a Toyota! hehehehe. :)

Took the clutch cable to get another made up (It's not a Ford part) and
discovered that the cable had been too close to the turbo heat shield, and
that the nylon inner bush had melted enough to really restrict the cables'
movement so that after a while it snapped. With the old cable just before it
broke, it was quite an effort to push the clutch in - with the new cable, it
was just like a 'normal' car. :):)

Yesterday (the 22nd) I got my copy of F1GP2 by Microprose. At the same time
I also fitted a brand new Triton 3 motherboard to the computer .....  Bit of
a problem with the mboard - neither of the com ports would work, so I had no
mouse and no modem. I managed to get around Windows95 ok, but I still
couldn't get the com ports to work. Tried Dos, and got F1GP2 working ok, but
still no mouse ....  This meant that at the time I (thought) that I couldn't
select the joystick setup that I wanted to use, ie, Thrusmaster F1 & Ch
pedals. I had to use a normal ol' joystick to drive with. Not good.  Put the
old mboard back in and Ta-da! Everything works again .... I found that I
could actually select the F1 steering wheel by using the keys anyway, but to
cut a long story short the sim is bloody brilliant!
I'll be doing a quick review in the next fews days, so hang on till then. (I
can tell you that you need a real ninja pc to play it in svga though ...)

Back soon,

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
             Dum volvo, video disco
               Em tasall, wantok.
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 16:32:25 +1200
To: greencg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: 3SGE turbo into Mk1 MR2 (was more beans)

Chris,

>Also....how hard would it be to Shove a MK2 turbo engine into a MK1 body?
>I bet I could locate a Munched Mk2 turbo In Miami for less than the cost of
>a good rebuild.I am talking the whole enchalada, electronics, intercooler
>and all...
>Please help...
>also do these cars share the same block/tranny mounts? Or will there be a
>Mig Gun involved?

I have really no idea! Not a 5 minute job tho'. Would be a really exciting
car to drive! Seriously however, if you keep your tranny I imagine it will
be similar to putting 3SGE into a seven kitcar using T-50 4AGE box - you
will need a bellhousing adapter. I would bet money you will have to fire up
the mig. It is probably easier to transfer entire turbo set up in -
including rear subframe etc (I haven't really looked at MR2, but I mean
motor/box/halfshafts/hubs/carriers/brakes/struts etc etc, if tracks are
similar). If this is too hard, consider 3SGE motor/box and adapting
drivshafts to suit.

Alternatively why not try supercharged motor - at least you know it can be
done. 

Not forgetting wee body mods for air to intercooler, clearance etc - may
need to fabricate own taller engine lid. Hell, why not turn car convertible
while you are at it!

Personally I would go complete 3SGE subframe route if possbile - but then
again I am insane...!

Best of luck, hope you do it.

Phil Bradshaw

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 96 02:14:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Horton 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: (Help me to) cool it!

>> 1) Is the engine overbored?  How much?

No, the block is a stock 350 with no overbore.

The engine is a Goodwrench replacement, FYI.

>> 2) Have you checked the cooling system for pressure leaks & checked the cap?

There is a small leak at the intake manifold, which seems to be a connection
that leads to a hose that the car doesn't have. This hole seems to always be
filled with green antifreeze, and the area around it looks like some evaporated
from it. But it's a pretty small hole, and the system appears to have plenty
of antifreeze in it.

As for the cap, I've been meaning to get it replaced. It's a 15 pound unit and
I'm told that this cooling system should have a 7 or 8 pound one. The first
time it overheated, the puke tank boiled over when the cap should have been
releasing steam, so it is indeed too tight.

>> 3) Have you checked the mixture of anti-freeze & water?

No, but it's quite green. (Scientific description, eh? :)

>> 4) have you bled the air out of the cooling system?

No. Should it be completely filled with coolant?

>> 5) Is the engine broken in?

Yes. I've had it for 5,000 miles now.

>> 6) are you using the correct rotation water pump (CW or CCW?)

Hmmm...! I didn't think of that, and since the water pump probably goes with
the engine, that might be the problem. How do I go about checking it?

>> Try drilling 2 small 1/8" or so holes in the body of the thermostat.  this wi
ll
allow air pockets to pass, and thus it's easier to bleed.

Would it hurt the engine to remove the thermostat completely? Obviously this
wouldn't be a good idea for those Boston winters, but it might work OK at least
until the end of the summer...

>> try using Redline's Water Wetter

How much is it and where do I get it?

>> Is the radiator in good condition?

It won't be mistaken for new, that much is certain. It was patched at some
point in its life before I bought the car. I don't know how many times or how
well the job was done. I had the radiator flushed, which seemed to help a
little, but it was not rodded. The flushing did not seem to dislodge the
patches or cause any new leaks.

>> Check the fan
clutch if so equipped.

I don't believe the car has one of these. Starting the engine on a cold
morning activates the fan. It's a fairly primitive car :)

Thanks!

Chuck

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 10:21:08 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: Kevin Annfield 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Sorry I lied

kevin, are you running the standard computer ? The ignition should be 
virtually a straight swap from the 18r, your alternator hooks up the same 
(unless you use one with an internal reg) the only thing left to hook up 
is the computer and senors which if you are using the standard computer 
are already there.

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Sat, 20 Jul 1996, Kevin Annfield wrote:

> Sorry to all those people that I lied to. I was taking the advice of the
> importer who I bought the engine off when I said it had a twenty valve head.
> It has got a yahama head on it but very dissapointly only 8 vavles. The main
> reason I am writing this is I still need the wiring diagram for the engine
> 18RGEU. I found out it is from a 1984 Carina GT. Matti may you have
> something on this from your Carina?? I hope from my little white lie that
> you all take me serious because I really need the diagram. There is nowhere
> here where I can get it. Please HELP
> 

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From: keppma@wwc.edu
To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 16:38:52 PST
Subject: me/mine/mods
Cc: Keppma@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Name:  Marc Keppler
Location: College Place, WA.
Model:  1994 Supra Twin Turbo
Engine:  2JZ-GTE
Modifications:  HKS Super Dragger Exhaust, K&N air filter, Speed Cut 
Defenser
Email: Keppma@wwc.edu

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 21:09:42 -0800
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall)
Subject: MK1 brakes

I've got yet another problem with my MK1 MR2. Everything is going at the
same time.  Now its at it again. Mydiver side braeis smoking like crazy
probably due to a siezed caliper my question is are these calipers
rebuildable ? upgrade able ? I just had the brakes serviced and they used
toyota pads on the rear and metalmasters on the front the rotors are
slightly past there limits.  If I've destroyed my rear rotors are
crossdrilleds worth the extra dough?? their only $50 more each. 

                                        Thanks 
                                                Dave

                                              86 MR2 w/new engine, starter,
                                                       alternator, Brakes, 

                                                       windshield, clutch,
and
                                                       Tires
 McCristall

Telephone 604 533-4098 
Fax  604 533-7998

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From: "Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin" 
Subject: Has anyone heard about...
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 6:47:08 PDT

I saw yet another infomercial yesterday, that showed
a product called "Prolong" for engine oil, transmission and
a few other products.

They showed several different types of cars that were supposed
to have had their oil removed, and then in the heat of the day
with the track at 146 degrees, they were driving these cars around
with NO OIL in them.

They also showed the bearing resistance test where they take 
various types of oils and apply them to the bearing surface
and apply torque to it until the bearing surface is either pitted
or damaged.

Of course they tried all of the popular brands of oil additives.

Then when Prolong was used there was almost no damage to the bearing
surface.

They also showed an engine mounted on a stand, and they had drained
all of the oil from it, and they were dumping dirt and sand into it.
They also cut the radiator hose and showed that the dirt was actually
running through the engine, they then held the engine at high rpms
and it was still running.

They continued showing other long term tests of a small car in
down town traffic on a hot day running with no oil in it.

The car was run for over 4 hours, and the engine did not seize up.

So my question is has anyone had any experience with this stuff
or actually used it?  If so I would like to here from you.

Please email me directly.

Thanks.
--
+ ------------------------------------------------- +
+    +++ N  E  C +++ +++ A  M  E  R  I  C  A +++    +
+ ------------------------------------------------- +
+ Marc L. Summers              System Administrator +
+ 3100 N.E. Shute Road      Hillsboro Oregon  97124 +
+ PH: 1-503-681-3338            FAX: 1-503-681-3304 +
+ Email:                      marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com +
+ ---------- Sic transit gloria mundi. ------------ +
+ --- "Thus passes away the glory of the world." -- +
+ ------------------------------------------------- +

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:32:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Lawton 
Subject: Jacobs Ignition
To: mods.;@cyberauto.com

Hey All,
I ahve a question for the group.  Has anyone used the Jacobs Ignition Systems? 
I saw an ad for one in SCC mag. and called about what it would do for my `88MKI
The guy on the phone said that I will be blessed with 21 hps and about 14 lbs
of torque.  My question is---> are these gains for real?  Is this unit, which
includes a new power coil, computer, wires, and harness, worth the US$478? 
  Any help or personal experiences would be greatly appriciated.

Bill Lawton `88 MR2 T-Bar

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 11:19:17 -0400
From: Chris Myer 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Putting Pictures on the TM Web Site

Ade asked how she could get her pictures put on the TM web site.  Well,
If you don't have access to a scanner, just mail them to me and I'll
scan/post them.  If you already have them digitized, email me directly
for details on how to ftp them.  You can attach them as email attachments
and I will get them, but if you do this please make sure you make them
jpegs and nothing like 1.2MB files--these really make downloading email
a drag!  Actually, I really prefer them to be ftp'd, since emailing
them means that I have to download them via email, then ftp them back
to the TM server machine.

BTW, I know that there are some major web page programmer-guru's out
there, and the TM web pages need some attention!  If you'd like to add
something to the TM web pages, you would definitely be making a positive
contribution to the group.  If you have any questions about how to go
about doing this, the best person to contact is Tom Julien at
tomj@cyberauto.com.

Chris

(Address if you want me to scan your pics:
Chris Myer
1496 Hyacinth ST NE
Palm Bay, FL  32907)

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 09:24:40 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: air filter for MR2 Turbo

     I'd like to hear some opinions on filters for MR2 Turbo.  Has anyone 
     had experiences comparing, let's say, the HKS Powerflo and Trust 
     Airinx?  Has anyone constructed a ram air system for the MR2?  Thanks 
     for any input.

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 14:37:17 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: AE86 Brakes

To the list,
Well I fixed most of my pedal feel problem. How? Not lines, not pads, not
master cylinder.....CAM TIMING!!!!! Well I checked my cams the other day,
the exhaust was at 10 degrees advanced since the last time I looked. You
wouldnt belive it, even this small difference with small cams must create
enough vac difference to overboost the system, wouldnt think so would you.
I hadnt noticed the change and the cars performance had falled off in the
high end and improved in the low end. By the way I started the thing about
braided lines, they are illegal in the state of Victoria AUSTRALIA and in
the city of Melbourne in Victoria Australia not Florida.
Bruce

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:29:28 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: 3SGE power figures

Hiya.

I am doing a structural analysis of a Lotus Seven type space frame as a
university project. As the 3SGE is really becoming the motor of choice for
the clubman racing set over here, it is also the most likely worst case
scenario in modified form.

I would like to know the power and torque figures for standard and worke NA
and turbo versions, as it is only a matter of time before a turbo gets
shoehorned in.

Metric or imperial measurements will be fine.

Thanks in advance.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Suffering with only 120 kW and 16.5 kgm!

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 14:36:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adrienne Mora 
Subject: RE: Central Florida Toyota Modder's Meeting
To: Toyota Mods 

> This baby was in excellent shape.  Very little rust, and only a small bit 
of
> body
> damage.  Engine ran well and the A/C even worked.  How much?  Singaporeans 
may
> want to skip the rest of this....Asking price was $750, I offered $450 and 
the
> fellow handed me the keys!  I'm stoked!

woo hoo!! : )

>  As we discussed the TM group, Ade's name came up.  I just happened
> to
> have the pic's of her and her MR2 in my Franklin Planner, so those then 
went
> around
> the table.  (*WHOO WHOO!!*)

D'oh!   I hope you didn't show them the _other_ pictures Chris!! ; )    ; )

hehehehehhee

Later dudes

Ade

PS. Speaking of pics .. how do I get some pics on the toy mods www page?

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To: toyota-mods 
From: "john.limcangco" 
Date: 25 Jul 96 17:08:09 
Subject: Quick-shifters

Hi list!

How does one go about in getting a quick-shifter for a W50 transmission tha'ts 
bolted on to my 18RG?    I've been told that I would have to 'engineer' one 
because there are no after-market quick-shift kits for W50's.

I'd like to know what kind of engineering is involved in pulling this off.
I understand that changing the fulcrum-point of the shifter could add or 
increase shifter travel. What's involved?  Could I use my existing shifter, or 
do I have to get one machined from a fresh block of steel....    I don't think 
sawing 2-inches from the shifter would make it quick enough.

If anyone knows how to do this or knows of an aftermarket source, please let me 
know.... Chris, have you heard differently since?

Has anyone experienced anything bad about quick-shifters aside from the 
increased shifter effort?  Reliability?

clueless,

John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18RG

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To: toyota-mods 
From: "john.limcangco" 
Date: 25 Jul 96 17:14:37 
Subject: 2-stroke engines

This is not toyota related... It may even be a stupid question.  But someone 
out there may have answers for me. 

Why are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?  I 
went out and rented a racing Go-Kart last weekend, and the track mechanic there 
kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so, 
why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.   Does this only apply to small 
displacement 'lawnmower' engines?

John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18RG

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:42:35 -0400
To: "john.limcangco" ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines

>This is not toyota related... It may even be a stupid question.  But someone
>out there may have answers for me.
>
>Why are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?  I
>went out and rented a racing Go-Kart last weekend, and the track mechanic
>there
>kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so,
>why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.   Does this only apply to small
>displacement 'lawnmower' engines?

I don't know if I 'd use the term 'small diplacement'. Weren't the Italians
very competitive with 2-cycle motorcycles for some time? Bugatti?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 16:33:53 -0700
From: "Ed A. Craft" 
To: "john.limcangco" 
Cc: toyota-mods 
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines

john.limcangco wrote:
> 
> This is not toyota related... It may even be a stupid question.  But someone
> out there may have answers for me.
> 
> Why are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?  I
> went out and rented a racing Go-Kart last weekend, and the track mechanic there
> kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so,
> why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.   Does this only apply to small
> displacement 'lawnmower' engines?
> 
> John Limcangco
> Manila, Philippines
> 79 Cressida 18RG

Well not to say that I know alot about engines, but to put it plan and
simple, 2-stroke engines are more powerful for that very reason (2
strokes)  Imagine a piston inside your engine. In a four stroke motor,
the piston travels from the top of the block to the bottom while sucking
fuel in (stroke 1), then from the bottom to the top compressing the fuel
and getting your ignition which fires the piston back down(strokes 2 &
3) and then pushing the exhaust out when it travels back up to the
top(stroke 4).  Then it starts the process all over again.

So in essence, every other time the piston reaches the top of the
chamber it fires.

In a 2-stroke motor, the piston fires everytime the piston is at the top
of the chamber.  Therefore, a 2-stroke moter produces power twice as
often as a 4-stroke motor...

Or something real similar..

hope this helps...

Ed

--
Ed Craft OSI ADG-SS x2764
mailto:eac1@osi.com

-- 
Ed Craft OSI ADG-SS x2764
mailto:eac1@osi.com

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Date: 25 Jul 1996 18:20:35 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines
To: "john.limcangco" ,

 Reply to:     RE>2-stroke engines

John, you wrote:

> If so, why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_. 

Not a stupid question at all... in fact, there have been 2-stroke racing cars, although not many of them.

> are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?

Others on the list may be able to answer this with more up-to-date information, but I believe one issue is the expansion chambers used on 2-stroke exhaust systems.  Like rotaries, the performance of highly tuned 2-strokes is highly exhaust system dependent.  For single cylinder engines, the required size and location of the expansion chamber for a highly tuned 2-stroke is quite workable.  For a V8, it would be hopeless.  For an in line twin or triple, it isn't too bad.

For a small (<500cc) normally aspirated engine, on a bhp/litre or bhp/lb basis, 2-strokes are superior to 4-strokes. 
erik.berg@trw.com

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:16:44 +0800 (WST)
From: Travis Morien 
To: "Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin" 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Has anyone heard about...

On Thu, 25 Jul 1996, Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin wrote:

> I saw yet another infomercial yesterday, that showed
> a product called "Prolong" for engine oil, transmission and
> a few other products.
> 
> They showed several different types of cars that were supposed
> to have had their oil removed, and then in the heat of the day
> with the track at 146 degrees, they were driving these cars around
> with NO OIL in them.
> 
> They also showed the bearing resistance test where they take 
> various types of oils and apply them to the bearing surface
> and apply torque to it until the bearing surface is either pitted
> or damaged.
> 
> Of course they tried all of the popular brands of oil additives.
> 
> Then when Prolong was used there was almost no damage to the bearing
> surface.
> 
> They also showed an engine mounted on a stand, and they had drained
> all of the oil from it, and they were dumping dirt and sand into it.
> They also cut the radiator hose and showed that the dirt was actually
> running through the engine, they then held the engine at high rpms
> and it was still running.
> 
> They continued showing other long term tests of a small car in
> down town traffic on a hot day running with no oil in it.
> 
> The car was run for over 4 hours, and the engine did not seize up.
> 
> So my question is has anyone had any experience with this stuff
> or actually used it?  If so I would like to here from you.
> 
> Please email me directly.
why direct email?  stuff like this is what the bloody list is for!

In Australia they market an oil additive called "Mecacyl" and the claims
are pretty much the same, I bought some for my '88 N/A but saw no real
difference, but of course it is kind of an emporers new clothes type
thing, if you are wise you will notice the difference....hmmm

It was in a small bottle, an almost odourless blue liquid, and it cost
like $70 for a 200ml bottle.  I have no idea if I was gyped or not,
applying it to one car without bothering to make any tests is difficult,
if I had several engines and a dyno maybe I would get somewhere...

I too would like to know if the stuff works, whether it is wise to blow
another $70 on an additive, or whether I should just use synthetic oils,
which is what I presently do..

I tried before to search for it on the net, and I posted about it on
several automotive newsgroups, but despite the mecacyl importers brochures
showing F1, indicar, rally and other racers being sponsored by it, noone
seems to have heard about it.  In Aus there have not been any infomercials
about it, just occasional quarter page ads in the Motoring section of the
paper.

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:21:32 +0800 (WST)
From: Travis Morien 
To: "john.limcangco" 
Cc: toyota-mods 
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines

On 25 Jul 1996, john.limcangco wrote:

> This is not toyota related... It may even be a stupid question.  But someone 
> out there may have answers for me. 
> 
> Why are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?  I 
> went out and rented a racing Go-Kart last weekend, and the track mechanic there 
> kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so, 
> why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.   Does this only apply to small 
> displacement 'lawnmower' engines?
> 
> John Limcangco
> Manila, Philippines
> 79 Cressida 18RG
> 
Don't forget Orbital Engine Corporation has just built a 2 stroke full
sized car, the S2S or SS2 or something (Sports 2 Stroke), it is a little
Mid mounted engine car that looks to be about as big as a MK1 MR2, it
isn't exactly a Tarmac tearer, but it is just a little slower than a mk1
na.

This thing is still just a concept car, they aren't being sold in
showrooms yet, but apparantly this powerplant has a very high power to
displacement ratio...

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 19:38:20 -0700
From: jgrospe@globalpac.com (jgrospe)
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade

I'm about to dress up my '92 MR2 Turbo and this is what I have in mind.
I've thought about it long and hard and the moment of truth seems not too 
far away.  At this point, your comments are most welcomed.	

Replace stock rims and tires with.......

Front:	BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 205/45ZR16
Rear:	BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 225/45ZR16

Feedback please on performance, fit, alternatives, etc.  Thanks so much.

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: Re: Jacobs Ignition
To: LAWTONWA@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Lawton)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:48:44 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Hey All,
> I ahve a question for the group.  Has anyone used the Jacobs Ignition Systems? 
> I saw an ad for one in SCC mag. and called about what it would do for my `88MKI
> The guy on the phone said that I will be blessed with 21 hps and about 14 lbs
> of torque.  My question is---> are these gains for real?  Is this unit, which
> includes a new power coil, computer, wires, and harness, worth the US$478? 
>   Any help or personal experiences would be greatly appriciated.
> 
> Bill Lawton `88 MR2 T-Bar
> 

Hey Bill,
	I think the guy on the phone really wants to sell you this amp.  The
approximate gains for ignition systems that I've seen around have been like
this:  about 3hp from the amp itself, about 2hp from an upgraded coil, and
about 1hp from a good set of wires, for a total of about 6hp overall.  I
myself am going to skip the amp, maybe just go for a good coil from MSD or
Crane (for $40) and get a good set of Magnecor wires from Chris Myer.
	By the way, we had a long discussion about two months ago about some
serious problems with Jacobs Ignition Products.

					Hope this helps,
					Aly
					'85 MR2
				abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu

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From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 22:37:25 -0600
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines
To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon),

a couple of things that 2 strokes have advantage over the 4 strokes -
- less moving parts (lighter)
- no valve train 'float' (higher revs achievable)
- thus LOTS more revs easier.
- no oil in crankcase (lighter, less parasytic  drag)
but the 2 strokes typically have a verry narrow power band, so gearing is MUCH 
more important than with a wider, flatter powerband.

If on a 175lb go-cart, you could shave 15 lbs that's nearly 10%reduction in 
weight - a significant advantage.

- Brian

On Thu, 25 Jul 1996, bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) wrote:
>>This is not toyota related... It may even be a stupid question.  But someone
>>out there may have answers for me.
>>
>>Why are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?  I
>>went out and rented a racing Go-Kart last weekend, and the track mechanic
>>there
>>kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so,
>>why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.   Does this only apply to small
>>displacement 'lawnmower' engines?
>
>I don't know if I 'd use the term 'small diplacement'. Weren't the Italians
>very competitive with 2-cycle motorcycles for some time? Bugatti?
>
>Steve B.
>
>bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
>http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
>Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
>-----------
>'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
>Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
>Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
>Delta Airlines Gold Medallion
>

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 01:00:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Horton 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines

>> I believe one issue is the expansion chambers used on 2-stroke exhaust
>> systems.

Yes, though a more prosaic reason they aren't found on the street is emissions.
A properly tuned 2-stroke burns oil!

The Subaru 360 was kinda cute, though :)

Chuck

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From: Tony Lanterman 
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:02:34 -0700 (PDT)
To: john.limcangco@cyberspace.cyberauto.com,
Subject: Re:  2-stroke engines

>kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so,
>why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.

Several people have covered the reasons why 2-stroke engines are more
powerful.  The big reason why they are not currently in high volume
production cars (in the US at least) is their polution problem.
Because they have no valves there is a point where you have exhaust 
flowing out of the combustion chamber at the same time as the fuel
air mix is flowing in.  To achieve max power you want the exhaust
to flow out fast enough to create a partial vacume to suck the fuel
air mix in.  As a result there is some cross flow of fuel-air that
goes straight out the exhaust pipe.  The EPA classifies this as a
"bad thing" which is why you don't see street bikes (motorcycles)
with 2-strokes anymore.  Fear of similar regulations is why the 
boating industry is developing so many outboard 4-strokes right now.

Woodsprite
**********************************************************************
* Without ice cream * 1985 Celica GT-S *       Joe Woodsprite        *
*   there would be  *   Convertible    *    Unsafe at any speed      *
*    darkness and   *  I don't drive   *                             *
*       chaos.      *       fast.      *     lantera@teleport.com    *
*         --        *    I fly low.    *                             *
*    Don Kardong    *  1983 Celica ST  *          dod #1456          *
*                   *  72 Honda CB350  *        Where's Julie?       *
**********************************************************************

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Date: 25 Jul 1996 23:40:54 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re:  2-stroke engines
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" 

 Reply to:     RE>> 2-stroke engines

>>kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so,
>>why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_. 

>The big reason why they are not currently in high volume
>production cars (in the US at least) is their polution problem.

Yep, that's absolutely correct.

And, although John's original question was concerning racing cars, there 
really aren't many racing engines that are not volume production based, 
either directly or indirectly.
erik.berg@trw.com

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 07:20:12 -0400
To: jgrospe@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (jgrospe),
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade

>I'm about to dress up my '92 MR2 Turbo and this is what I have in mind.
>I've thought about it long and hard and the moment of truth seems not too
>far away.  At this point, your comments are most welcomed.
>
>Replace stock rims and tires with.......
>
>Front:  BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 205/45ZR16
>Rear:   BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 225/45ZR16
>
>Feedback please on performance, fit, alternatives, etc.  Thanks so much.

Does anyone have any concerns with not keeping a front/rear wheel
'imbalance' - ie: my '91T has 14x6f and 15x7 rear. Shouldn't the fronts
always be a little thinner (weight)?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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From: "Gregory Chan" 
To: "john.limcangco" 
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:19:07 EDT
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

> 
> Why are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?  I 
> went out and rented a racing Go-Kart last weekend, and the track mechanic there 
> kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so, 
> why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.   Does this only apply to small 
> displacement 'lawnmower' engines?
> 
        2-stroke engines make power with every revolution of the 
crank whereas the 4-stroke does it every two strokes. They are also 
easier to modify and respond well to porting and polishing in 
conjunction with a good expansion chamber, however, they are not 
easy to control because they make so much power and are prone to 
fouling the plug if not driven in the powerband. There is also the 
lubrication problem as a 2-stroke motor mixes oil with the gas to 
provide lubrication for the crankshaft and other parts and this is 
outputted as smoke. Thus these motors are not suitable for street
use as they pollute the atmosphere and are inherently killer 
machines.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: MR2 wheel upgrades
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:52:52 -0400 (EDT)

Ok, my last message *should have rad 14x6f and 14x7r - that was a typo on 
my part, concerning the '91T MR2.

But, on another note, my in-law's next door neighbor picked up a '95 
Supra Turbo. Damned nice car, previous owner had it about 4 months, and 
traded it on on something else (have no clue what!). The guy who bought the 
Supra sold his '91(?) Turbo Carerra, he was po'ed at the cost of the 
clutch! So he just about broke even on the deal, selling the Trubo 
Carerra and buying the Supra Turbo.

So I had a peak at the wheels - 17x7.5 225/45VR, and 17x9 255/40VR. The 
widths of the tires are probably off a 10spot, but the wheels and 
aspect raios should be dead on. They're HUGE. Is everyone *sure* they 
won't fit on the '91 MR2? :)

So what is it - the lug nut pattern, or the offset?

Steve B.

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 09:50:06 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: 1986 MR2 GT?

I just took my clutch parts to the local clutch fix-it shop for resurfacing
the flywheel, etc., and he asked me if it was a "GT."  I confidently said
"No such thing" and he said his book said there was, and it had a 4AGELC
engine code.

I've never heard of an MR2 GT... was there one?  I'd like to clarify it today
before I pick up the parts so I can be more informed.

Please e-mail me directly if you have comments.  Thanks!

Dave A.
daucott@e-mail.com

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:29:35 +0200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: jon hanson 
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name     :      Jon Hanson
Location :	Johannesburg, South Africa
Model    :	Toyota MR2 MK I 1985 US MODEL LHD BRONZE/GOLD
Engine   :	4AGE-LU
Mods     :	DDS Engine Management, PiperCross Foam Air Filter

Hi to every one from a new member. MR2's seem to be fairly rare in South
Africa. I've never even seen another MK I on the roads here in all my years
of driving (22 of them) although I know some exist from chatting to Toyota
Dealers.
I've driven Toyotas for years and have ended up modifying most of them in
some way.
This one was supposed to be different, being an 85 model I just wanted to
get it running well and leave it std.
No such Luck! The car had all the US spec emission kit on it when I bought
it in Jan 96. ie EGR and Oxygen sensor with closed loop operation in the
ECU. The Oxygen sensor was pronounced half dead by a local company.
Not surprsing since it had run on SA leaded fuel since 1990. Ordering a
replacement from Toyota SA proved to be 
'Mission Almost Impossible'. Ordered in Jan it still has not arrived,
although I no longer need it.
In March a major problem with the fuel injection/ engine management left the
car virtually undrivable, I was able to limp to a local Fuel injection fundi
at about 50 km/hour. Local versions of the 4AGE all have map sensors and not
air flow meters. They also have no exhaust catylyst and hence no O2
sensor/feeback system.
We decided the best/quickest solution(this is my every day car) was to fit a
locally developed Management system by Digital Data Systems.
Before any one thinks I'm loaded, This system is cheap and for installation,
incl all sensors, custom wiring harnesses and setup I payed a lot less than
it would cost to bring in an equivelant say Haltech system just in its box.
The South African Rand has been in a decline for a long time and to import
parts etc you have to really want/need something badly.
As usual with modifying cars not everything went smoothly. The very
efficient factory electronic ignition system would not interface with the
new ECU. hence it was scrapped and replaced with a hybrid system from
various sources. The system is very new on the market here and the software
definitely has some glitches.
the two areas I'm aware of are Ignition timing(fortunately the bug is not
dangerous, but the timing is not advancing correctly at higher revs) and the
temperature based enrichment (intake air & engine temp) is not working at
all. The last sounds unlikely, but it's true. Fortunately the lowest temps
in winter (now) are about 
0 to -1 deg C. Its a tribute to the efficiency of fuel injection that after
a short warm up I can drive the car quite normally. Unfortunately The
Developer of the system and his two software boffins are Currently in the
USA trying to market the system and are only due back in SA in October, so
I'll just have to hang in there and be patient. If this sounds like a cock
up , the car is going a lot better than when I bought it.

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:41:47 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: Re: 2-stroke engines
Cc: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon)

>>Why are 2-stroke engines considered more powerful that 4-stroke engines?  I
>>went out and rented a racing Go-Kart last weekend, and the track mechanic
>>there
>>kept mentioning that 2-stroke Karts rule over the 4-stroke Karts....  If so,
>>why aren't there 2-stroke racing _cars_.   Does this only apply to small
>>displacement 'lawnmower' engines?
>
>I don't know if I 'd use the term 'small diplacement'. Weren't the Italians
>very competitive with 2-cycle motorcycles for some time? Bugatti?
>
>Steve B.

Also Try Kawasaki, Honda , Suzuki , Yamaha, and Most all Outboard Boat motors.
The reason many People consider them " more Powerfull " is that For thier
Displacement they make Oodles more power than a 4 stroke engine...this is
because :
A 4 stroke engine the piston goes: up down up down and only the last down
movement gererates any power
stroke 1  up    Exaust
Stroke 2 down   Intake
stroke 3 up     Compression
stroke 4 down   Power stroke..
In contrast the 2 stroke makes power every time the piston goes down the bore.
like this:

Starting with the piston at the top, with a unfired mixture, compressed by
upward piston movement on the prior stroke.
the spark plug fires...the mixture ignites pushing the piston down. the
piston travels down the bore till the piston uncovers a slot in the cylinder
wall,called the exaust port. The spent gasses leave because there is lower
pressure in the exaust system than in the cylinder. Now , as the piston
moved down the bore , it compressed the volume of the crankcase and created
a high pressure area in the case. as the piston moves down the cylinder even
further, twords the bottom of the stroke , the intake port is uncovered and
the mixture of Gasoline, oil and ambient air that were in the crank case,
now rush into the cylinder and as the Piston moves upward, the Mixture is
compressed and the cycle begins again...
Simple Huh??
2 stroke
stroke 1  down   powerstroke exaust and intake
stroke 2  up     end of intake stroke   compression stroke..
so for a given displacement there are twice as many power strokes in a 2
stroke engine as in a 4 stroke....
these are the basics...but there is a lot of Voodoo involved..trust me!
hope this helps.

>
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net
87 Mister 2 n/a  Black
 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
Benjamin Franklin.

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Date: 	Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:10:43 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: 2 stroke trivia

Some 2 stroke trivia.  SAAB was fairly successful in 50's and 60's racing 2
strokes.  I believe the first SAAB's imported to the US were
pull-cord-start SAAB 90's with tiny little two strokes that were
practically indestructable.  See some of the SAAB mods list for more info.

Kelly Carter
89 MR2 na

Kelly Carter _______________
A/V Technician______________
College of Architecture_____
Media Center________________
Texas A&M University________
College Station, TX_________

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 08:43:25 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: jgrospe@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re[2]: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade

     Do the front and rear tires on an MR2 Turbo have to be different?  Can 
     both front and rear tires be 225/45ZR/16, for example?  Or is 225 too 
     wide for the front?  How does this effect the handling 
     characteristics?

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade
Author:  bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) at SMTP
Date:    07/26/1996 8:27 AM

>I'm about to dress up my '92 MR2 Turbo and this is what I have in mind. 
>I've thought about it long and hard and the moment of truth seems not too 
>far away.  At this point, your comments are most welcomed.
>
>Replace stock rims and tires with....... 
>
>Front:  BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 205/45ZR16 
>Rear:   BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 225/45ZR16 
>
>Feedback please on performance, fit, alternatives, etc.  Thanks so much.

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:36:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Lawton 
Subject: MkI Trans
To: mods.;@cyberauto.com

Okay here is something that I have been trying to determine for as long as I
have owned my `88 MR2.  The first day that I bought the car I noticed that
while the car is in fifth gear the stick moves back and forth in accordance to
poweron/off.  When I apply load to the engine it pushes back and when I release
the pedel it moves forward.  We are talking about 1/4 inch both ways.  I
remember a conversation about the fifth gear not staying engaged for some cars,
but never anything about a mild back and forth motion.  Is this a lead up to
fifth never staying in gear?  If the trans does need work is it possible to put
the fifth gear from a SC in my N/A?  I once heard that they SC cruises on the
highway better because of a better top gear?  Any help would be great.

Bill Lawton `88 MR2 T-Bar
Lawtonwa@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu

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Date: 	Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:38:28 -0500
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: kcarter@archone.tamu.edu (Kelly Carter)
Subject: floppy shifter MkI trans

My MkI does the same thing, so have various other cars I've owned.  Usually
it is play in the engine/trans mounts or the linkage itself.  When the
drive train gets torque it move the linkage and the shifter.  When you let
off the power it flexes back.  As far as I know this is normal on stock
vehicles and the problem get worse with age.  It varies from make to make.
My Toyotas have always had a little motion in shifter after several
thousand miles.  My VWs (water and air cooled) also got a little flex after
years of use and abuse.  Anybody know of any danger or mechanical problems
arising from this?

Kelly
89 MkI na

Kelly Carter _______________
A/V Technician______________
College of Architecture_____
Media Center________________
Texas A&M University________
College Station, TX_________

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 17:02:28 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: marcs@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: checking turbo condition

     Hey Marc, thanks for answering all my questions.

     What's the best way to check the condition of the turbo on the MR2?  I 
     now know that oil and grease deposits around the turbo and openings 
     are not good but is there anything to look for when driving the car?
     What about abnormal sounds?

     BTW, how long should the turbos be cooled for?

           Harry C. Wang
           San Jose, CA
           nCHIP, Inc.
           hwang@nchip.com

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Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 20:35:14 +0300 (EET)
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos )
Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #329
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

I am in need of Johns Browdericks phone/fax or address for placing an order
for one SS pipe exhaust. Could someone post it here for me, e-mail it to me
or better e-mail it to Chris at:  cmyer@cyberauto.com

Will appreciate anybody's response as I am away from home/office and have no
access into my data.

Regards,
Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D.
ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS
Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr

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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 12:55:57 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Gear ratios vs speed Calculator

Hiya. 

I am presently working on a spreadsheet that will calculate top speeds etc
from gear/diff ratios and tyre sizes. My trial runs have shown me that
either I have made a mistake (don't think so) or else the 1983 AE 86 Levin
T50 alloy case gearbox does not have the intermediate ratios I thought it
did! Matti sent me the following ratios:

r -3.484
1  3.587
2  2.022
3  1.384
4. 1.0
5. 0.861

Fourth and fifth are OK, but I can do 100 k in second, whilst according to
my spreadsheet I should only get about 88... I have the 22 spline (I think)
Japanese model box - is this close ratio? - does anyone have any figures?.
My speedo and tacho are calibrated and I have no reason to doubt their
accuracy - the 4th and 5th figures match almost exactly...

If you send me your tyre size, diff and gearbox ratios, along with redline
and max rpm in top gear, I will send you back the results so we can de-bug
this thing.

I will post the spreadsheet to the list when I have it finished. What else
do you want it to work out? I may have it give the diff ratio you need to
maintain same overall gearing if you change wheel and tyre size. Any other
suggestions?

Phil Bradshaw.
Confused.......

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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 16:59:53 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: F1GP2 Review.

Hiya all,
         I've had a pretty good go of F1GP2 now, so it's time for a review.
Ok, ya open the box and ya get these things - 
A very complete manual, a 'Technical Supplement', and a CD-ROM with the sim
on it.
The manual does the usual things, ie, describes all the various options & so
on, and that's a good thing because of the level of complexity of set-ups
available. (I'll get back to this in a minute)
The Technical Supplement is basically just a very abbreviated version of the
full manual, but a few 'almost last minute' amendments. (The CD-ROM
"readme.txt" file has the last 'last minute' amendments)  It also has a map
for each track so you can record your best times for reference.

Ok, the sim starts off with the choice of "Quick Race" or "Main Menu". Hmmm
... the same as the old version ...
To anyone who has played the earlier version of the sim, there will be quite
a lot that is familiar, but only to a point. The basic _are_ the same, but
where the main differences lie is with the graphics & car tuning options so
that's what I'll concentrate on. (negatives first, then the bright side)

With the graphics you can pick either VGA or SVGA. Lets get things straight
right from the start - you DON'T have a powerful enough computer to run the
sim in SVGA with all the options turned on and get a reasonable or in fact
even remotely playable frame rate! To give you an idea how much processing
power the sims sucks, I have a Pentium 100, Triton 3 motherboard with a 512k
pipeline burst cache, a Diamond Stealth 64 2Meg VRAM, 32Meg EDO ram, and I
can _just_ get away with everything turned on in VGA only. When I run SVGA,
I use the #2 level of 'track side detail', (some buildings, etc) have only
the textures for the fences & track side objects turned on, and finally the
view in the mirrors showing only (with no texture) the track & the 'verges'.
(The bit between the track proper & fence) By setting the graphics at this
level I can run 17 frames/sec and not have the processor bog down too much.
(If you push the 'O' key during driving, you'll get an idea of how hard the
CPU is working to give you the picture you asked for. Under 100% is good,
over about 130% not so good and the view starts to slow down and get jerky)
With the track side detail on max and all textures on my machine will run at
290% processor load, so it's about as exciting as a wet fart to play. :(  If
you can live without some of the 'eye-candy', then you'll be in sim heaven -
besides, as they say, "If you're looking at the scenery, then you're not
driving fast enough!" Too right. 
I tried a modem link race earlier today .....  Not real good, I'm afraid. I
run a Hayes Accura 28.8 and my opposition runs a US Robotics 28.8, so both
modems are certainly on the speedy side. One of the options to start the
game is for it to use a 16550 UART if the computer has one, but I when I
used this command it wouldn't work so I had to go for a slower baud rate to
link up. (Only tried 19200, but I think with some fiddling it could be run
faster) With the graphics options I had set before, (and getting 60%-85%
processor loading) the sim went into 'slow treacle' mode. It was worse than
having ALL the graphics on - I was getting up 230% loading. Not good, but
perhaps with some more research this could be improved. (Still won the race
though!:) 
One more annoyance is the control selection screen. I am lucky enough to
have a Thrustmaster steering wheel and CH pedals for driving sims, but it
wasn't so easy to get them calibrated. Actually, it was easy once I
(accidentally) found out how to pick what control went were. (If you have a
similar set-up, then you must pick "Control Driven Calibration". It's hidden
away on the selection screen and also gets little mention in the main manual)

Ok, now for the positive things! (In no particular order) If you have ever
wanted to feel what it's like to drive a 'formula car', then this sim is for
you. It is literally the next best thing to being in the car - you could
almost teach yourself to drive very quickly with this sim .... Yes, it's
that good.  The car dynamics are almost spot-on, and if you like fiddling
with adjustments then you'll faint from pleasure. 
Lets take a look at what you can adjust with the car - 
Sitting in the car, you can alter the fuel load and pick new/used tyre sets.

By using the joystick & fire button, you can go into the garage for some
more detailed adjustments - 
Front & rear wings.
Brake balance.
Gear ratios.

So far, much like Indycar2, eh? But wait, there's more!

Advanced Setup, level 1 - 
Spring rates, front & rear.
Ride height front & rear.
Dampers Front & rear.
Anti-roll bars front & rear.

Still not enough? Go to level 2 - 
4 way adjustable dampers. (fast/slow for bump/rebound)
Packers. (suspension bump stops)

To see if all your fine work is paying off, there are a couple of ways to
check. The first & easiest way is go to the "Inspect Car" option. You can
see how much tyre wear there is, and how much of the 'plank' is worn away
and where it's worn away. (the 'plank' on F1 cars is a wooden plank attached
under the car so that they can't run the car too close to the ground. A
maximum of 1mm, 0.040", is allowed to be worn off at the end of the race)
If you want to _really_ see what the car is doing, then you have the option
of 'Data Logging', which will just blow you away, guaranteed!
Data logging gives you the following information when you pull into the pits -
For each lap, the cars' -
Speed.
RPM.
Steering demand.
Throttle position.
Brake position.
Gear selected.
Ride Height. (For each wheel)
Suspension Travel. (For each wheel)
Wheelspin (For each wheel)

Have you ever see on TV the readouts of, say, RPM for a couple of laps?
(Yes, I know John Welsh has. Hi John! ;) Well, that's just what it gives
you! You can also superimpose a couple of laps over one another to see where
the differences are. (The suspension travel is good for a laugh - You can
see just where you cut that chicane and went over the ripple strip! Burnouts
look good on the wheelspin trace ... ;) I could go on for quite a while
about all the features of the data logging, but there'd be too much to cover
in a short review.

Driving the car is a bit odd at first - they have no tacho. All you get is
four lights; when the last one is lit up then the rev limiter is on. All the
'driver aids' from the first sim are there again - 
F1 - Auto brakes.
F2 - Auto gears.
F3 - Self correcting spin.
F4 - Indestructible. (yay!)
F5 - Ideal line.
F6 - Suggested gear.
And the new one F7 - Throttle help. (this one used to be a menu selection in
the earlier sim)
Pay attention. The cars have 700+hp and weigh in under 1/2 a ton. They need
rubber about 500" wide to soak up that much power, but they only have about
28" total on the rear.
Pay attention. Lots of throttle in low gears = Hello fence!
Fun it might be having instant wheelspin in any gear under about 80mph, but
I think you'll be sticking to using F7 all the time ...

In the first sim, the other 'drivers' were complete, err, ratbags. They
would take the slightest bit of notice of you until you were distinctly in
front of them, resulting in many unnecessary collisions. (Never my fault ...
;) The guys in both Indycar 1 & 2 were far more respectful, and so it's a
great pleasure to see that the F1GP2 guys have been taking lessons from
them. (They drive far more realistically)

Another cool improvement is they way the cars move over ripple strips,
grass, and gravel traps. Well, actually it's a pain in the rear going
through a gravel trap ... :(   For the first time a car sims accurately
models going over ripple strips - you can just touch them and the car will
kick up slightly on that side, or of you really hit them hard the plank on
the bottom of the car gets hammered and the car jumps violently on that
side, usually resulting in a spin into the fence. When running in SVGA, you
can put the car in the same spot every time and so hit the ripple strips at
will when needed. (After learning the hard way how much you can get on them)

You can select how 'good' the other drivers are, and trying as hard as I
can, I can only beat them consistantly when they are at the 'rookie' level.
(Up from 'rookie' is 'amateur', 'semi-pro', 'pro', and 'ace') If this is an
accurate modeling of the actual drivers, then I don't know what you'd have
to do to even keep up with the slowest in 'ace' level.

Quick summary -
If you want to experience driving an F1 car for yourself, it seems that
there is now two ways of doing so, though both have their limitations ...
(If anyone has a P200, please let us know how it runs on your machine!)

Regards,
	   The B Man.

P.S. My best lap time at Monza is 1:29.3

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
             Dum volvo, video disco
                Em tasal, wantok.
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:10:23 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Oil/Sump inspection

Things that go bump in the night - In my case it was an invisible object in
a friend's driveway that not only dented the sump but cracked it too... Of
course it missed the bash plate. The sump is being welded and the bash plate
extended as I write this. 

Good news is that my trusty 20 valve that has done 40,000 km in my car,
exclusively on Mobil 1, is absolutely clean and sludge free inside. I change
every 5000k and a new filter every 10,000. I go thru a litre of oil every
5000k - how does this compare with other engines?

Phil Bradshaw
Relegated to a borrowed car for a day.

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:22:29 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: turbo 18rg

Well the motor has seen it's first look at a race track (Wakefield Park) 
in anger and the verdict is Ye Ha!! Considering it hasn't been tuned (we 
just richened it up so we didn't melt it), that it has a PVC pipe for the 
intake and that the exhaust manifold is the ugliest piece of welding i 
have ever laid eyes on it went like stink. On only 9 psi boost the car 
nearly passed the entire field (i gridded myself last not really knowing 
how the car was going to perform in anger) including the usual normallt 
aspirated 2tgs 18rgs and 4ags. There were also another 2 RA23 Celicas both 
with 1GG's (one was supercharged). The supercharged one provided a bit of 
a challenge down the straight but it was bye bye through the twisty bits. 
Passing the hairy gorilla in his 'grunter' V8 Commodore mid way down the 
straight was a highlight for the day especially after listening to him 
winge that he couldn't get the power down out of the corners. The two 
cars that i caught which really made my day were a 92 GT4 and one of the 
MR2's raced at Bathast in the Production 12 hr. What really made this 
great was the fact that it was pouring rain at the time and it is very 
satisfying to catch +$30,000 cars particularly a 4WD in the wet in my 
little old 77 Celica. Now that i know the turbo is a goer (being a TO4 i 
thought it might be a bit big for my car) i can start spending money to 
refine the package and bring more boost on board. On the subject of more 
boost, has anyone run both a pneumatic and electronic boost control on 
the same car with the same mods and have a difinitive opinion on the 
power gains to be made by using an EBC. Time to go and let the adrenalin 
settle down, every time i think about the track i start heal n' toeing 
under the table.

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 20:15:24 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: '91T MR2: flaky white deposits on distributor cap interior?

I took a few minutes today to inspect the 6-month-old distributor cap on my
'91T MR2, and immediately noticed that there was some white flaky deposits
on the inside 'posts' of the cap. I was able to scrape of the build-up with
a flat-head screwdriver, and a thick (for the space available between the
distributor rotor and the distributor cap) flake came off on all 4 interior
posts. I then was able to scrape a little, and get past any white and see
silver(?) again.

Has anyone else experienced this before? Is this something I should do once
every 2 weeks or so - take off the distributor cap, and remove any build-up
on the interior posts? Has anyone else experienced this on Toyotas - turbo,
high compressions, new/old cap, any variable?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts from anyone out there.

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:23:57 +1200
To: "john.limcangco" ,
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: DIY Quick-shifters

Peoples,

Having thought about John's query on quick shifters over the last few days
an idea has come to mind. Yup, yet more dodgy engineering from me. If the
W50 transmission is similar to the T-50, in that the gear lever sits in a
cupped casting that in turn is bolted to the top of the gearbox housing,
then surely you could speed up the shift by packing the cupped casting
further above the gearbox, cutting the fork from the ball joint an
lengthening the fork arm by the same height you make the packing. 

Simple lever theory applies ie if you double the distance between the ball
centre and fork centre (and therefore make the cupped casting packer this
change in length thick) you should halve the shifter throw (or triple the
distance and reduce movement to a third of original etc). There is also
scope to chop down the knob side of the shifter arm, but this may place the
lever too low. My kit car has had about 8 inches chopped out of theT-50
lever, so the knob is rally close to he ball - ultra short shifts! 

In summary there is two options - shorten the lever on the knob side of the
ball joint, or else lengthen the lever on the fork side, but you must pack
the assembly higher.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (With air cooled conrods...)

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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:10:46 -0400
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: FS: '85 MR2 4A-GE fuel injectors

Many thanks to all who responded to my '91T MR2 bra/mask offer - both to
those who made offers, and those who pointed out that '91-'92 MR2s have a
different bra/mask then '93-'95.

So next for sale, to help clear out my garage - (4) '85 MR2 4A-GE fuel
injectors. Have a hankering to have a set calibrated, but want to be able
to drive your car while they are being service? Or just have a need for
another set? Well, I have a set, ready to ship.

So, anyone need a set, and have a reasonable offer to make?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 22:38:52 -0400
From: Stephanie Kellerman 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name: Bert Kellerman
Location: Louisville, KY
Make: 77 celica 
Engine: 20r 2189cc 8 valve
Mods: Trying to be one of the fastest 8 valves around
email:Stephke@mis.net

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:12:35 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: greencg@gate.net
Subject: 91 turbo

        Hey, I ran Into a guy tonite who has a 91 turbo that he assumed the
payments on, and he cannot afford them. he is willing to let the car go for
$9000.oo us money
This car has ABS ,leather, although the seats are trashed,T-tops, 90,800
miles, AC, and decent rubber on the stock 5 star rims. cassette deck .
the motor looks to have been owned by a Person that just drove it, it has
all kinds of icky black stuff on the outside of it ICK!!!
I would die if my engine bay looked like that...
ANYWAY!! this car bears a lot of looking into, but is this a good asking price?
thanks.....
Chris Green
Greencg@gate.net
87 Mister 2 n/a  Black
 
"Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve
neither"
Benjamin Franklin.

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:43:06 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: Phil Bradshaw 
Cc: "john.limcangco" ,
Subject: Re: DIY Quick-shifters

Good theory there Phil, in fact i am having exactly that set up made for 
my W50 as i write. It's a bit of an experiment as its a bit hard to judge 
how changing the lever ratio will effect the 'feel' of the shift. I 
haven't got the exact figures we worked out (they are with the machinist) 
but i think the lever is going to be lengthened about 10 mm for starters 
and we'll see how that goes. A fancier set up is to make the quick shift 
adjustable by using a threaded rod at the ball end and using shims to 
space out the fulcrum so you can get exactly the shift speed you want.

Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Mon, 29 Jul 1996, Phil Bradshaw wrote:

> Peoples,
> 
> Having thought about John's query on quick shifters over the last few days
> an idea has come to mind. Yup, yet more dodgy engineering from me. If the
> W50 transmission is similar to the T-50, in that the gear lever sits in a
> cupped casting that in turn is bolted to the top of the gearbox housing,
> then surely you could speed up the shift by packing the cupped casting
> further above the gearbox, cutting the fork from the ball joint an
> lengthening the fork arm by the same height you make the packing. 
> 
> Simple lever theory applies ie if you double the distance between the ball
> centre and fork centre (and therefore make the cupped casting packer this
> change in length thick) you should halve the shifter throw (or triple the
> distance and reduce movement to a third of original etc). There is also
> scope to chop down the knob side of the shifter arm, but this may place the
> lever too low. My kit car has had about 8 inches chopped out of theT-50
> lever, so the knob is rally close to he ball - ultra short shifts! 
> 
> In summary there is two options - shorten the lever on the knob side of the
> ball joint, or else lengthen the lever on the fork side, but you must pack
> the assembly higher.
> 
> Phil Bradshaw
> Palmerston North NZ
> Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (With air cooled conrods...)
> 

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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 22:16:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rees 
To: Phil Bradshaw 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: DIY Quick-shifters

Cutting down the stock shifter seems like an easy method to shorten the 
throws on a tranny!  Who makes a shift knob that will bolt onto the 
shortened shift lever after it's been cut?

On Mon, 29 Jul 1996, Phil Bradshaw wrote:

> In summary there is two options - shorten the lever on the knob side of the
> ball joint, or else lengthen the lever on the fork side, but you must pack
> the assembly higher.
> 
> Phil Bradshaw
> Palmerston North NZ
> Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (With air cooled conrods...)
> 

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:06:11 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: DIY shifters #2

David Rees asked:

>Cutting down the stock shifter seems like an easy method to shorten the 
>throws on a tranny!  Who makes a shift knob that will bolt onto the 
>shortened shift lever after it's been cut?

I chopped my T-50 gear lever off under the rubber vibration damper (on my
car now the standard Toyota gearknob bottom is about 2 inches above the
ball...) and just welded a bolt with the right thread on (after cutting the
head off), which the knob screws on to. A quick file to smooth up the welds,
and the join is actually hidden under the knob, although the knob is hard on
the leather boot so you would't see it anyway.

Hope this helps.

Phil Bradshaw.
20 valve back in action :) Repair cost $NZ 25 for welding/bash plate mods,
$10.60 for sealant, oil pick up gasket, 3 litres Mobil 1 (last of what was
lying around).

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 18:38:33 +1000 (EST)
From: "" 
To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: DIY Quick-shifters

I did a similar thing to mine except working from the other end (about 3 
inches shorter) but this throw is still heaps longer than the throw you 
see on a full race box. I'm trying to move the pivot point to see if i 
can achieve those wrist flick type changes without compromising the feel 
of the shift. I did try shortening the shifter to about 4 inches which 
gave greatly reduced distance the lever had to move but it also increased 
the effort required 10 fold. By changing the pivot point and leaving the 
gear lever longer the effort required to shift shouldn't get as heavy. 
Obviously there is going to be a compromise between shortening the gear 
lever and lenghtening the other side of the fulcrum which will give a 
fast shift with an appropriate effort, this is the challenge and i don't 
think i'll get it right the first go but when i do i'll let you know. 
This stuffing around is still heaps cheaper than buying an after market 
quick shift and more in the spirit of car modification i think.
Cheers,

~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
 Justen Simpson             simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au
 CRC for Freshwater Ecology, Uni of Canberra, Australia
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~

On Mon, 29 Jul 1996 bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:

> Justen,
> I dont know how far you can go but I took 2 inches off my T50 shifter and
> it improved no end. Just sawed it off and rethreaded it. The main problem
> with this method is that the driver needs a longer arm. I'm 6ft, so no
> problem and if you have ever seen Bill S you could probably move the shifter
> into the engine bay and he would be able to move it! As for my wife she is
> 5ft 6inches and would find it difficult.
> Bruce
> 

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 08:09:33 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MR2 GT?

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question on the 1986 MR2 GT.  Here is
a quick summary of the responses I received:

1) Several people mentioned that the SC was originally called the GT,
   but this was an '86 and at least in this country there was no SC until
   '88.  Plus, he said it was the same clutch as the regular MR2 and the
   SC clutch is very different.

2) I'm told the 4AGELC stands for Low Compression (9:1) and is the spec for
   all US MR2s except the supercharged.  This makes sense.  The euro-model
   is 10:1 and makes 130 hp.  Thus, the LC code has nothing to do with GT.

3) The "GT" designation is used in other countries, particularly the ones
   with all the spoilers and side skirts.

4) The guy's parts book is wrong.

Based on the above and the number of people who said they've never heard of
an MR2 GT, I'm inclined to believe #3 is the correct answer.  In any case,
I got the clutch and installed it yesterday, and it works perfectly.

Dave A.
daucott@e-mail.com

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 08:36:49 EDT
From: "G. D. Aucott" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Lug Centers

Another quick technical question:  Can someone tell me the exact distance
between centers for the MK1 lug nuts?

Thanks!

Dave A.
daucott@aol.com

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To: david rees 
Cc: toyota-mods 
From: "john.limcangco" 
Date: 29 Jul 96  9:15:54 
Subject: Re: DIY Quick-shifters

The shift knob I have now is made by Momo.   I believe Momo shift knobs are 
'universal' fit that they do not need a threaded shaft.  The shift-knob I have 
uses three hex screws (that clamp the shaft) to hold the shift knob in place.

Use some liquid thread lock... without it, the screws can shake themselves 
loose.

John Limcangco
Manila, Philippines
79 Cressida 18RG
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
To: philip.bradshaw.1 @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com (phil bradshaw)  @ internet
cc: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com  @ internet (bcc: John Limcangco)
From: drees @ sdcc10.ucsd.edu (David Rees) @ internet
Date: 07/28/96 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: DIY Quick-shifters
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Cutting down the stock shifter seems like an easy method to shorten the 
throws on a tranny!  Who makes a shift knob that will bolt onto the 
shortened shift lever after it's been cut?

On Mon, 29 Jul 1996, Phil Bradshaw wrote:

> In summary there is two options - shorten the lever on the knob side of the
> ball joint, or else lengthen the lever on the fork side, but you must pack
> the assembly higher.
> 
> Phil Bradshaw
> Palmerston North NZ
> Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (With air cooled conrods...)
> 

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From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 15:57:27 EST
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: DIY Quick-shifters

Justen,
I dont know how far you can go but I took 2 inches off my T50 shifter and
it improved no end. Just sawed it off and rethreaded it. The main problem
with this method is that the driver needs a longer arm. I'm 6ft, so no
problem and if you have ever seen Bill S you could probably move the shifter
into the engine bay and he would be able to move it! As for my wife she is
5ft 6inches and would find it difficult.
Bruce

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:02:37 -0400
To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw),
From: Chris Hilliard 
Subject: Re: DIY shifters #2

>I chopped my T-50 gear lever off under the rubber vibration damper (on my
>car now the standard Toyota gearknob bottom is about 2 inches above the
>ball...) and just welded a bolt with the right thread on (after cutting the
>head off), which the knob screws on to. A quick file to smooth up the welds,
>and the join is actually hidden under the knob, although the knob is hard on
>the leather boot so you would't see it anyway.
>

        Uh........Yep you could do it that way but wouldn't just be easier
to thread
        the shaft?

                                                        The Infamous Tojo

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 12:44:20 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: DIY quick shifters #3

Peoples! Hasn't this one really taken flight!

Two points:

- despite the amount I shortened my T-50 shifter (say 8 inches on the knob
side) the shift remains light (to me). The main key is to make the mental
adjustment from an arm forward-back straight line type shift motion to a
wrist rotational forward back motion as you are so much closer to the pivot
point. I miss changes sometimes, and the box is a little notchy but I think
it is peculiar to my box, as Liam Venter's T-50 shifter in his Striker is
about the same length as mine but I thought it had a nicer shift.

- I welded a bolt on for the knob as the shaft was too thick to thread and
not able to be put in a lathe. I found the universal 3 grubscrew type knobs
to be a pain as the screws eat into the shifter lever and wear little
craters that allow the knob to rotate about 5 degrees - no matter how tight
you do the screws up you can't get past this slop. Concur using studlock.

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North NZ
Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - shiny new sump paint job.
'Keeping a sharper eye out for those pot holes on the information and other
superhighways!'

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 14:58:58 +1200 (NZST)
To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw),
From: Liam Venter 
Subject: Re: DIY quick shifters #3

At 12:44 PM 30/07/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote:
>Peoples! Hasn't this one really taken flight!
>
>Two points:
>
>- despite the amount I shortened my T-50 shifter (say 8 inches on the knob
>side) the shift remains light (to me). The main key is to make the mental
>adjustment from an arm forward-back straight line type shift motion to a
>wrist rotational forward back motion as you are so much closer to the pivot
>point. I miss changes sometimes, and the box is a little notchy but I think
>it is peculiar to my box, as Liam Venter's T-50 shifter in his Striker is
>about the same length as mine but I thought it had a nicer shift.

Not any more. I have abused it very badly. Phil the two springs that locate
the gearshift in the neutral position are differing strengths. I have two of
the Stronger springs.
>
>- I welded a bolt on for the knob as the shaft was too thick to thread and
>not able to be put in a lathe. I found the universal 3 grubscrew type knobs
>to be a pain as the screws eat into the shifter lever and wear little
>craters that allow the knob to rotate about 5 degrees - no matter how tight
>you do the screws up you can't get past this slop. Concur using studlock.

Yep I used some Sikaflex 221. I dont think it is ever coming off!
>
regards

Liam Venter
>

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 00:04:53 -0700
From: Val MacDonald 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: me/mine/mods

Name        : Val MacDonald
Location    : Mosgiel, New Zealand.
Model       : Homebuilt 1984 Glass Celica (Speedway 800Kg's)
Engine      : 3T GTE
Mods        : Non as yet
Email       : vmacdonald@xtra.co.nz

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:25:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Lawton 
Subject: RPMS
To: Mods.;@cyberauto.com

Hey,
ANybody have any clue what the number 13 code in the check engine codes is. 
The manual says it is a RPM sender failure.  One thing I have noticed is that
if I let the car rev up to about 1500 to 2000 rpms the engine throbs from 1500
to 2000.  BTW this is on a `88 MkI.
Are these two thing the result of each other or separate things all together.

Bill Lawton
Lawtonwa@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 08:35:03 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, majordomo@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: For your info - Internet virus 

Hi Everyone,

   Pls take note of the internet virus stated from below message.

Regards...Sharon

Subject:       Forwarded: Copy of: ATTENTION : Internet virus 
Date:          27 Jul 96 20:39:01 GMT

<1> Subject:  Please pass on this information to your colleagues.

There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If you 
receive an email message with the subject line "Good  Times", DO Not read 
the message, DELETE it immediately.  Please read the messages below. Some 
miscreant is sending  email under the title "Good Times" nationwide,if you 
get anything like this, DON'T DOWN LOAD THE FILE! It has a virus that 
rewrites your hard drive, obliterating anything on it.

Please be careful and forward this mail to anyone you care about.

The FCC released a warning last Wednesday concerning a matter of major 
importance to any regular user  of the Internet. Apparently a new computer 
virus has been engineered by a user of AMERICA ON LINE that  is unparalleled 
in its destructive capability. Other more well known viruses such as 
"Stoned", "Airwolf" and "Michaelangelo" pale in comparison to the prospects 
of this newest creation by a warped mentality. What makes this  virus so 
terrifying, said the FCC, is the fact that no program needs to be exchanged 
for a new computer to be infected. It can be spread through the existing 
email systems of the Internet.

Once a Computer is infected, one of  several things can  happen. If the 
computer contains a hard drive, that  will most likely be destroyed. If the 
program is not stopped, the computer's processor will be placed in an 
nth-complexity infinite binary loop -which can severely damage the processor 
if left running that way too long.

Unfortunately, most novice computer users will not realize what is 
happening until it is far too late. Luckily, there is one sure means of 
detecting what is now known as the "Good Times" virus. It always 
travels to new computers the same way in a text email message with the
subject line reading "Good Times". Avoiding infection is easy once the file 
has been
received simply by NOT READING IT! The act of loading the file into the mail 
server's ASCII buffer causes the "Good Times" mainline program to initialize 
and execute.

The program is highly intelligent- it will  send copies of itself to 
everyone whose email address is contained in a receive-mail file or a 
sent-mail file, if it can find one. It will then proceed to trash the 
computer it is running on.

The bottom line is:  - if you receive a file with the subject line "Good 
Times", delete it  immediately! Do not read it"  Rest assured that whoever' 
ame was on the  "From" line was surely struck by the virus. Warn your 
friends and  local system users of this newest threat to the Internet! It 
could save them a lot of time and money.

Could you pass this along to your global mailing list as well?

<2> Subject:  New and Dangerous Virus For your information ...

DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY FILE NAMED PKZIP300 REGARDLESS OF THE EXTENSION

We work closely with the military and received this message from a very 
reliable source in DC this morning.

A NEW Trojan Horse Virus has emerged on the internet with the name 
PKZIP300.ZIP, so named as to give the impression that this file is a new 
version of the PKZIP software used to "ZIP" (compress) files.

DO NOT DOWNLOAD this file under any circumstances!!! If you install or 
expand this file, the virus WILL wipe your hard disk clean and affect 
modems at 14.4 and higher. This is an extremely destructive virus and there 
is NOT yet a way of cleaning up this one.

REPEAT: DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY FILE NAMED PKZIP300 REGARDLESS OF THE  EXTENSION.

"crawl" has no sexual connotations, i assure u

Alan Kan
Auckland

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:56:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rees 
To: Mods Toyota 
Subject: Re: DIY Quick Shifter

Well yesterday I cut down the shifter on my W55 tranny (in my '81 Celica) 
about 3 inches yesterday.  Instead of threading the old shift knob on, I 
just enlarged the hole in the knob just enough to that I could barely 
stuff the knob onto the now threadless lever.  It seems to be on pretty 
good, but only time will tell if the shift know will stay on!  The 
shorter throw is a lot better than stock too, without any more noticeable 
effort.

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 10:47:21 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: higashi@agames.com (gene higashi)

Hey there,
I got this address from Mike Dowe who subscribes to a 2 stroke motorcycle
list that I'm on.  At any rate, I'm interested in subscribing to your
Toyota list.  I have an 84 Celica GTS w/ HKS exhaust, Tokico springs and
shocks, 16" rims, etc.  I also have a friend w/ a supercharged MR2.  Are
there any other Celica (w/ 22re) owners here?  I'd be highly interested to
know what kinds of mods others are running.
Later,
Gene

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 11:43:54 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: For your info - Internet virus 

     Sorry its just a joke...hee hee, hope everyone can forgive me.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: For your info - Internet virus 
Author:  "Harry Wang"  at SMTP
Date:    07/30/1996 8:35 AM

Hi Everyone,

   Pls take note of the internet virus stated from below message.

Regards...Sharon

Subject:       Forwarded: Copy of: ATTENTION : Internet virus 
Date:          27 Jul 96 20:39:01 GMT

<1> Subject:  Please pass on this information to your colleagues.

There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If you 
receive an email message with the subject line "Good  Times", DO Not read 
the message, DELETE it immediately.  Please read the messages below. Some 
miscreant is sending  email under the title "Good Times" nationwide,if you 
get anything like this, DON'T DOWN LOAD THE FILE! It has a virus that 
rewrites your hard drive, obliterating anything on it.

Please be careful and forward this mail to anyone you care about.

The FCC released a warning last Wednesday concerning a matter of major 
importance to any regular user  of the Internet. Apparently a new computer 
virus has been engineered by a user of AMERICA ON LINE that  is unparalleled 
in its destructive capability. Other more well known viruses such as 
"Stoned", "Airwolf" and "Michaelangelo" pale in comparison to the prospects 
of this newest creation by a warped mentality. What makes this  virus so 
terrifying, said the FCC, is the fact that no program needs to be exchanged 
for a new computer to be infected. It can be spread through the existing 
email systems of the Internet.

Once a Computer is infected, one of  several things can  happen. If the 
computer contains a hard drive, that  will most likely be destroyed. If the 
program is not stopped, the computer's processor will be placed in an 
nth-complexity infinite binary loop -which can severely damage the processor 
if left running that way too long.

Unfortunately, most novice computer users will not realize what is 
happening until it is far too late. Luckily, there is one sure means of 
detecting what is now known as the "Good Times" virus. It always 
travels to new computers the same way in a text email message with the
subject line reading "Good Times". Avoiding infection is easy once the file 
has been
received simply by NOT READING IT! The act of loading the file into the mail 
server's ASCII buffer causes the "Good Times" mainline program to initialize 
and execute.

The program is highly intelligent- it will  send copies of itself to 
everyone whose email address is contained in a receive-mail file or a 
sent-mail file, if it can find one. It will then proceed to trash the 
computer it is running on.

The bottom line is:  - if you receive a file with the subject line "Good 
Times", delete it  immediately! Do not read it"  Rest assured that whoever' 
ame was on the  "From" line was surely struck by the virus. Warn your 
friends and  local system users of this newest threat to the Internet! It 
could save them a lot of time and money.

Could you pass this along to your global mailing list as well?

<2> Subject:  New and Dangerous Virus For your information ...

DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY FILE NAMED PKZIP300 REGARDLESS OF THE EXTENSION

We work closely with the military and received this message from a very 
reliable source in DC this morning.

A NEW Trojan Horse Virus has emerged on the internet with the name 
PKZIP300.ZIP, so named as to give the impression that this file is a new 
version of the PKZIP software used to "ZIP" (compress) files.

DO NOT DOWNLOAD this file under any circumstances!!! If you install or 
expand this file, the virus WILL wipe your hard disk clean and affect 
modems at 14.4 and higher. This is an extremely destructive virus and there 
is NOT yet a way of cleaning up this one.

REPEAT: DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY FILE NAMED PKZIP300 REGARDLESS OF THE  EXTENSION.

"crawl" has no sexual connotations, i assure u

Alan Kan
Auckland

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 12:20:18 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: MKIITurbo internal mods

     I have read several articles on some quick (12-second) MR2 Turbos and 
     it seems they can do it with almost no internal engine work, just bolt 
     on items and computer control mods.  Is it difficult to perform 
     internal mods to this engine.  Are there cams and throttle bodies 
     available?  Does anyone have any experience porting and polishing the 
     heads?  Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 12:31:48 PST
From: "Harry Wang" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: turbo conversion for MKI?

     What's the feasibility of converting a 91-95 MR2 NA to turbo?  Has 
     anyone done this?  I've been looking for a decent MKII Turbo for 
     several months now here in the bay area and just can't find the right 
     one.  So I was thinking about the possibility of converting a 
     non-turbo.  I think this would be a lot of work, especially concerning 
     the ECU.  Even if I were to fabricate a complete system how would I 
     handle the computer control?  Does anyone have any opinions?  Thanks.

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: Re: turbo conversion for MKI?
To: hwang@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Harry Wang)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 17:07:49 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

Don't we go through this thread about every 2-3 weeks or so - how to 
convert a Mk I to SC and how to convert a Mk II to turbo? Perhaps a 
standard FAQ entry would be in order, something along this line:

The MK I NA is a 4A-GE engine. The MkI SC is a 4A-GEZ engine. The Mk II 
NA is a 3S-FE engine. The Mk II Turbo is a 3S-GTE engine. The only 
realistically sensible way to do this conversion would be to completely 
swap the engine, engine computer, and all other items unique to the 
specific 'forced-induction upgrade' - ie: trannys, half-shafts, cooling 
system, etc.

Unless someone out there is doing this conversion in a mass-production 
assembly-line format, it would be economically unfeasable to do this 
conversion. It would cost more to do the conversion, then to sell the NA 
version of the MR2 and buy the forced-induction model of the MR2.

To add forced induction to the 4A-GE (Mk I NA) or 3S-FE (Mk II NA) would 
not be recommended. Higher compression ratios, possibly inadequate 
cooling and lubibracation, etc. would make this conversion unrecommended, 
excpet for those who are willing to deal with the above mentioned 
limitations.

But, there is not a technical reason why a Turbo cannot be added to a Mk I 
SC, or a supercharger could not be added to a MK II Turbo. The Mk I SC 
Turbo exists, perhaps someone is working on a Mk II Turbo SC.

If anyone wishes to add to this, feel free. But something standard like 
this in tha FAQ would be nice.

BTW, if anyone else wants to assist in the investigatory stage of the Mk 
II Turbo SC, let me know. :)

Steve B.

> 
>      What's the feasibility of converting a 91-95 MR2 NA to turbo?  Has 
>      anyone done this?  I've been looking for a decent MKII Turbo for 
>      several months now here in the bay area and just can't find the right 
>      one.  So I was thinking about the possibility of converting a 
>      non-turbo.  I think this would be a lot of work, especially concerning 
>      the ECU.  Even if I were to fabricate a complete system how would I 
>      handle the computer control?  Does anyone have any opinions?  Thanks.
> 

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 17:25:42 -0400
To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: '91T MR2: flaky white deposits on distributor cap interior?

The build-up you're experiencing is caused by the arcing between the rotor
and the cap.
It is corrosion due to the high temperature breakdown of the metals.

NOTE:  Scraping the cap and rotor is a temporary fix, but increases the gap
between the cap and rotor causing more arcing and more corrosion.
This will also effect your dwell and timing.

Replace the cap and rotor regularly (10-15K mi or when needed).

PS. Steve, what MK1 parts do you have left?

Until Next............................Robert A.
                                            '85 MK1
 181,500..................

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From: aly abulkheir 
Subject: 4AGE Compression test low.
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 17:55:33 -0400 (EDT)

Hi All,
	I just did a compression test on my '85 MR2 and it doesn't look
good.  These are the results I got, cylinders 1 to 4:

108, 70, 37, 77.

	I do want to repeat this when I get it back on the road to reconfirm
these numbers.  Now what's strange is that the car doesn't feel bad on the
road.  It feels pretty darn responsive.  But if you put your hand on the
tail pipe at idle, you Do Not feel any pressure pushing your hand away.
	I have not tried squirting some oil into the spark plug hole to
see if the compression increases to find out if the problem is with the
cylinders or the valves.  I will do that soon.
	Any ideas on what could have caused this drop in compression?  I
change the oil on time all the time and I thought I was doing everything I
was supposed to to keep the engine in good condition.  Of course, I did not
check the compression when I bought it two years ago.  Perhaps it's been
like this all along, and maybe that's why I have not noticed any decrease in
engine performance from when I bought it to now.
	
	Anyway, any pointers on what I should do, what you would do, any
advice at all is welcome.  This is the first car I've owned that has had
this problem.  I really like this car and have no plans of selling it. 

			Looks like Eibachs are going to have to wait :)

				Aly
				'85 MR2

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 18:02:48 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: fuel filters......

I keep having people tell me that if my mileage gets bad it's because my fuel
filter is clogged and needs changed.
This makes zero sense to me.
If the filter was clogged, it would let less fuel through.
Therefore, the car would run leaner.
Hense, get better mileage.

Am I way off here???

Anyone???

Tanx.

ps, I've got 120,000 miles on my fuel filter.  Do you think I've put off
changing it too long?

Until Next............................Robert A.
                                            '85 MK1   181,500.........

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From: REESE001@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 18:15:14 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: testing MK1 injectors....

Is there an easy way to test the fuel injectors on a MK1?

What are the tell-tale signs if one is going out?

Anybody?

Tanx.

Until Next..........................Robert
                                          '85 Mk1  181,500...................

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 10:29:40 +1200
From: Richard Doig 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Oil choice for turbo.

Sorry to ask a question which has probably been asked a thousand 
times but what oil should I use in my 1987 Celica GT4 (alltrac)?  I 
have just bought the car and have no previous history.  It has 
75000kms on the clock but there is a good chance this is false.

Locally Mobil 1 is common here in New Zealand.  They have just
 released a new blend at 5W-50,  SH/CF rated ($60.95/4litres).  My
 local Mobil has the old version, 15W-50 SH rated on sale at $44.  I 
have heard all types of opinions about Mobil 1 and oil in general. 
 The motor is the 3s-gte and the temperature here ranges from about
 0 degrees celcius to about 30 in summer.  Would the 15W-50 be 
suitable or should I look for 10W-30? 

Please reply direct as I haven't joined yet (I prefer digest) and 
unfortunaely do not have net access.

Thanks
-------------------------------------------------

Richard Doig
doigr@fphcare.fp.co.nz
1983 Toyota Celica XX 2000GT Twin Cam 24
1987 Toyota Celica GT4

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 19:05:07 -0400
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: wow - toyota-digest news, and it's all about viruses!

Did anyone else notice that the largest digest in weeks came in the
mailboxes, and it had to do nothing about Toyotas, but computer viruses?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 16:11:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: An-Hong Chien 
To: aly abulkheir 
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: 4AGE Compression test low.

hey there...i was wondering if you can tell me more about compression
tests.  how much it costs...the purpose of it, what does dropping oil in
the spark plug area do...etc.  thanks in advance

	does anyone have a mk1 with rims on it...i was interested in 
getting new rims and was not sure which ones to get.  i look to borbet 
type c , konig tuner, and motoring expo.  any advice or comments?
dave

1987 mr2
k&n filter
eibach springs.

On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, aly abulkheir wrote:

> Hi All,
> 	I just did a compression test on my '85 MR2 and it doesn't look
> good.  These are the results I got, cylinders 1 to 4:
> 
> 108, 70, 37, 77.
> 
> 	I do want to repeat this when I get it back on the road to reconfirm
> these numbers.  Now what's strange is that the car doesn't feel bad on the
> road.  It feels pretty darn responsive.  But if you put your hand on the
> tail pipe at idle, you Do Not feel any pressure pushing your hand away.
> 	I have not tried squirting some oil into the spark plug hole to
> see if the compression increases to find out if the problem is with the
> cylinders or the valves.  I will do that soon.
> 	Any ideas on what could have caused this drop in compression?  I
> change the oil on time all the time and I thought I was doing everything I
> was supposed to to keep the engine in good condition.  Of course, I did not
> check the compression when I bought it two years ago.  Perhaps it's been
> like this all along, and maybe that's why I have not noticed any decrease in
> engine performance from when I bought it to now.
> 	
> 	Anyway, any pointers on what I should do, what you would do, any
> advice at all is welcome.  This is the first car I've owned that has had
> this problem.  I really like this car and have no plans of selling it. 
> 
> 			Looks like Eibachs are going to have to wait :)
> 
> 				Aly
> 				'85 MR2
>

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 16:13:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: An-Hong Chien 
To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: testing MK1 injectors....

along that note...anyone know of a place out in orange county or la 
county where fuel injections are cheap to get cleaned?
dave

On Tue, 30 Jul 1996 REESE001@aol.com wrote:

> Is there an easy way to test the fuel injectors on a MK1?
> 
> What are the tell-tale signs if one is going out?
> 
> Anybody?
> 
> Tanx.
> 
> Until Next..........................Robert
>                                           '85 Mk1  181,500...................
> 

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 18:56:42 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: higashi@agames.com (gene higashi)
Subject: me/mine/mods

Hey All,
sent this stuff before, but not sure if you got it or not-so here goes again:

Name     :Gene Higashi
Location :     San Francisco Bay Area, California, USA
Model    :     '84 Celica GTS
Engine   :      22RE (fuel injected)
Mods     :     no cat. HKS exhaust, K&N filter, lowered w/Tokico shocks/
springs, 16" rims
email    :  higashi@agames.com

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From: kca@interserv.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:34:30 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel filters......
To: REESE001@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com

On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, REESE001@aol.com wrote:

>If the filter was clogged, it would let less fuel through.
>Therefore, the car would run leaner.
>Hense, get better mileage.
>
>Am I way off here???

I'm not gonna say whether it's the filter or not, but if your car has gone from 
running a good mixture to a lean one, you've lost power, thus it requires more 
throttle to produce the same power to go the same speed.

No fuel savings there.

The engine is also running less efficiently overall.

Kip Anderson    _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
kca@interserv.com _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|  _|
http://members.aol.com/kipanderso   _|  _|  _|  _|

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Date: 31 Jul 1996 00:30:17 -0700
From: "Erik Berg" 
Subject: Re: fuel filters......
To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" 

 Reply to:     RE>>fuel filters......

Kip wrote:
>if your car has gone from running a good mixture to a lean one, you've lost 
>power, thus it requires more throttle to produce the same power to go the 
>same speed.  No fuel savings there.

Hmmmmmm.... sorry, Kip, got to disagree.  I don't think you've lost power to 
the same extent as you've reduced fuel use.

Robert wrote: 
>If the filter was clogged, it would let less fuel through.
>Therefore, the car would run leaner.
>Hence, get better mileage.

Yeah, that sounds right.
erik.berg@trw.com

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 19:51:07 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: 4AGE combustion chambers/exhausts

Peoples, here's one for you.

Has anyone ever cc'd a standard head on any of the 4age's? If so, what model
head? I am trying to suss out how much to shave off the head to adjust
compression ratios for a friend. Cam timing is not an issue. 

Also, anyone know a successful primary exhaust length for a standard toyota
4age?

Thanks in advance

Phil Bradshaw
Leitch Supersprint 20 valve.

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 20:36:19 +1000
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood)
Subject: 4AGE flywheel weights.

Hiya all,
          I picked up my new 4AGE today, so I'll be starting to rebuild it
in the next couple of months. I seem to remember that some people were after
flywheel weights, so I have already taken off the flywheel on my new toy and
weighed it - it's 16 - 17 pounds. 
The engine is a 100kw (134hp) FWD model, and I believe that it was one of
the last of the 4-valve engines made because it has a 'Z' block, (extra
ribbing) and piston oil cooler 'squirters' inside the block. It also has a
knock sensor.

Byeeee.

The B Man.

~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~
             Dum volvo, video disco
                Em tasal, wantok.
** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway **

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 07:38:03 -0400
To: Richard Doig ,
From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon)
Subject: Re: Oil choice for turbo.

>Locally Mobil 1 is common here in New Zealand.  They have just
> released a new blend at 5W-50,  SH/CF rated ($60.95/4litres).  My

$15/quart (+/-)! Yow! What's the nz$/us$ conversion rate? Do you use ausie$
rates?

> local Mobil has the old version, 15W-50 SH rated on sale at $44.  I
>have heard all types of opinions about Mobil 1 and oil in general.
> The motor is the 3s-gte and the temperature here ranges from about
> 0 degrees celcius to about 30 in summer.  Would the 15W-50 be
>suitable or should I look for 10W-30?

Steve B.

bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w)
http://www.rust.net/~bagdon
Katharine aNd Steve (KNS)
-----------
'91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car)
Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900
Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn
Delta Airlines Gold Medallion

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:26:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account))
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: Oil choice for turbo.

> Locally Mobil 1 is common here in New Zealand.  They have just
>  released a new blend at 5W-50,  SH/CF rated ($60.95/4litres).  My
>  local Mobil has the old version, 15W-50 SH rated on sale at $44.  I 
> have heard all types of opinions about Mobil 1 and oil in general. 
>  The motor is the 3s-gte and the temperature here ranges from about
>  0 degrees celcius to about 30 in summer.  Would the 15W-50 be 
> suitable or should I look for 10W-30? 

$11 per liter!  What a ripoff even after the currency conversion.  Its
$3.50/quart at KMart here.

I use 10W-30 year round in my Supra.  The folk wisdom is that
synthetics have about a 15 point advantage over dino oils, so a 30
weight synth is like a 45 weight dino.  The lower viscosity also helps
get the flow rates up in the low pressure/high flow oil system in the
Supra turbo whoch is supposedly desirable. A typical Supra with piston
squirters tops out at about 40psi or so, about half the non-turbo
pressure. Perhaps the all-trac is similar.

Jon
90 Supra Turbo

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:45:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: supra@patagonia.bellcore.com (Jon Hacker (Supra Account))
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Re: fuel filters......

> >If the filter was clogged, it would let less fuel through.
> >Therefore, the car would run leaner.
> >Hense, get better mileage.
> >
> >Am I way off here???

Hmmm if the filter is so clogged that its restricting flow in the
midrange where most of your fuel consuming time is spent then
presumably it would not run at all at full throttle.  Do your symptoms
match that?  On the other hand, if its running lean only at full
throttle then unless your racing you shouldn't see much affect at all
on fuel economy or low speed drivability.  My 2 cents.

Jon
90 SUpra Turbo

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To: Toyota mods 
From: Harry Pitaro 
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:15:25 EST
Subject: New Suspension Fantastic

Addressed to: MR2 Digest 
              Toyota mods 

Hi all,

I have just had Eibach springs and Koni sport adjustable struts fitted
to the car. Talk about bringing new life to the car!!!!!! It feels
great. I was after the Tokico struts but they don't import them into Oz
any longer. I could have had them shipped over but then I'd have no
after sales support.

First impressions after about an hour of pushing the car with the
shocks set on moderately stiff:

- tracks a lot straighter
- almost no body roll
- wanted to reduce braking distance but haven't noticed any major
improvement as yet (roads were wet)
- significantly more grip from same set of tyres
- seem to feel more bumps in the road through the seat of your pants
but subjectively think that there is less road noise. Maybe the stereo
was too loud :-)
- No clank from suspension travel when going over speed humps

Over the coming months I will have a play with adjusting front and rear
struts to get the car handling how I like it.

Regards,
Harry Pitaro

Nov. '87 MK1 MR2
K&N Air Filter
Eibach Springs
Koni Sport Adjustable Shocks
_____________________
pitaro@ozemail.com.au
Melbourne,  Australia
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:09:51 -0700
From: "Jeffrey L. Montigny" 
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Subject: Last of the Toyota EFI System Monitors

Greetings Fellow Toyota Phreaks,

 Many of you have already been introduced to the
 Vf1 signal meter I designed/produce:
 " The Toyota EFI System Monitor "

 See:
 http://www.supras.com/m_offer2.html
 FAQ:
 http://www.supras.com/m_faq.html

 I have two beige-colored units,
 One black unit,
 and three to be enclosed (Choice of colors)

 There is a high probability that this is the
 last of the 'VF Meter' Supply.

 I have now made/sold a few dozen of these things,
 I lost count...

 Ask me or your fellow Supra, MR2 goup members for
 verification if you wish...

 Dealer inquiries welcome... ;)

Regards,
 Jeff Montigny, Electronics Engineer, performance hobbiest.
 http://www.supras.com/jmontign/s_jm_1.html
 jmontign@nsc.com :work
 SupraTurbo@worldnet.att.net :home

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From: Steve Bagdon 
Subject: WTT: Delta FC ticket for '85 MR2 'winter car'
To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 13:06:22 -0400 (EDT)

I'm looking for an '85 MR2 (or '86, something in the Mk I range) to make 
into my 'winter car' for next season (quickly approaching). The only 
requirements are that it has a good engine and transaxle, the heater 
works, and that it rolls safely. :) A/C, good stereo, *rust* - not on my 
priority list. Funny thing - I seem to have a lot of spare parts, so I 
figured my winter car might as well match my spare parts bin. :-)

I don't have a lot of cash I can throw around (something about my wife 
got hold of the check book), so I'm putting the following up on the block 
- (1) Delta First Class ticket, from anywhere to anywhere in the 
continental US. For an unusually good car, I'll even extend the ticket to 
Hawaii or Bermuda. As an example, Delta wants $1750 R/T from Miami to 
Seattle. Considering what I've seen 'winter cars' going for in Detroit 
(lots of rust, but strong mechanicals), that appears to be a good deal.

Again, the A/C doesn't have to work, the interior doesn't have to be 
pretty, I just want it to run. A good condition windshield is just about 
a *must*.

Anyone who is interested, or knows anyone who is interested, please let 
me know.

Steve B.

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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 08:04:28 +1200
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw)
Subject: Re: Fuel Filters

Having tought about this (always dangerous!), my impression was that the EFI
fuel pump was capable of about 70 psi whilst the fuel rail is regulated to
38 (or so) psi - surely if the filter was partially blocked (and not flowing
as much fuel) the regulator would merely remain 'closed' (bleeding less fuel
back to the tank) longer and still maintain normal fuel pressures?

If the filter was *heavily* blocked the fuel rail would run below pressure,
especially at high revs (= high fuel flow obviously) thus preventing the
injectors from 'spraying' correctly and you would surely get *considerable*
drop off in power? How is the filter supposed to get clogged anyway? Is your
gas that poor quality?

Just some thoughts. Best way to tell would be to tee a fuel pressure gauge
into the fuel rail - if it maintains 38 (or whatever) psi at full noise it
is ok. (of course, we all have fuel pressure gauges!)

BTW anyone had an EFI pump die? I am becoming paranoid about some 'new'
noises I am either hearing or imagining! (the pump is right behind me and
audible).

Phil Bradshaw
Palmerston North
New Zealand - home of expensive fuel and oil.
Leitch Supersprint 20 valve

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 20:41:39 -0700
To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com
From: higashi@agames.com (gene higashi)
Subject: 22re to 18rg

Hey Everyone,
I haven't been looking around too much lately, but the last time I checked
there weren't very many aftermarket "hop-up" parts for the 22re.  I did see
a supercharger kit from the Toystore right after they moved to Vegas (do
they still exsist?), but they said it was still being tested.  I haven't
been able to find a cam because I've been told, the fuel injection is
incompatable with it.  I'm thinking maybe when my engine goes I should drop
in an 18rg instead so that I can get some go fast parts.  Is this wise, or
am I asking for trouble, since I'll be taking out all kinds of smog and
electronic stuff.  Are there any truck parts that I can use on my 22re that
are compatable?  How about the turbo off of an old truck 22re, is that mod
even worth the trouble (and how much HP to be gained)?  Just some thoughts.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Gene

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