Toyota-Mods Postings August 1996

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ _______ ^^^ ^^^ ,' - _ ^^^ ^^^ ________,'__________>>> - _ ^ ^^^ ^^^ , ' | ^^^ ^^^ ~I~ I~I \ / I~I ~I~ .~. _ I\/I I~I I~\ <~ ^^^ ^^^ I I_I | I_I I I~I I I I_I I_/ _> ^^^ ^^^ `---\__/----------------\__/----' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ P O S T I N G S Aug 1996 ^^^ ^^^ --------------------------- ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 01 Aug 96 06:38:41 EDT From: Richard Hopewell <101577.2305@compuserve.com> Cc: "(unknown)" , Subject: Re[2]: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade I have just changed the wheels and tires on my '90 MR2 MKII. I've got Antera 121 16x7.5 all round. I found it difficult to get wheels at an affordable price that would give me 16x7.0 front and 16x7.5 rear, which is what I worked out to be the optimum for what I wanted to do with power etc. I have Pirelli Pzero's all round with 205/45 front and 225/45 rear, and the handling is 300% better! I wouldn't go bigger than 205 front as any larger than that will make the stearing very difficult to cope with. I found that by moving up to 205 the car "tram-lined" badly. However now I have altered the pressures (f&r) as in the MR2 FAQ this tendency has almost completely dissappeared. cheers, Richard Hopewell 101577,2305@compuserve.com ---------- Forwarded Message ---------- From: "Harry Wang", INTERNET:hwang@orthanc.nchip.COM TO: (unknown), INTERNET:JGROSPE@CYBERSPACE.CYBERAUTO.COM (unknown), INTERNET:TOYOTA-MODS@CYBERSPACE.CYBERAUTO.COM DATE: 26/07/96 18:27 RE: Re[2]: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade Sender: toyota-mods-owner@cyberauto.com Received: from cyberspace.cyberauto.com (CyberSpace.CyberAuto.Com [199.0.8.64]) by dub-img-7.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515) id NAA13267; Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:05:27 -0400 Received: (from root@localhost) by cyberspace.cyberauto.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id MAA09472 for toyota-mods-outgoing; Fri, 26 Jul 1996 12:25:14 -0400 Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 08:43:25 PST From: "Harry Wang" Message-Id: <9606268383.AA838395312@orthanc.nchip.com> To: jgrospe@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re[2]: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com Precedence: bulk Do the front and rear tires on an MR2 Turbo have to be different? Can both front and rear tires be 225/45ZR/16, for example? Or is 225 too wide for the front? How does this effect the handling characteristics? ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: MR2-T Wheel/Tire Upgrade Author: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) at SMTP Date: 07/26/1996 8:27 AM >I'm about to dress up my '92 MR2 Turbo and this is what I have in mind. >I've thought about it long and hard and the moment of truth seems not too >far away. At this point, your comments are most welcomed. > >Replace stock rims and tires with....... > >Front: BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 205/45ZR16 >Rear: BBS RZII 16X7.5 with Yokohama AVS Intermediate 225/45ZR16 > >Feedback please on performance, fit, alternatives, etc. Thanks so much. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 20:43:41 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: fuel filters...... >> >If the filter was clogged, it would let less fuel through. >> >Therefore, the car would run leaner. >> >Hense, get better mileage. >> > >> >Am I way off here??? > Hmmm, wot I reckon might happen is that the EFI computer would compensate for the slightly lower fuel pressure by increasing the injector pulse width. It'd do this because of the 'closed loop' feedback system provided by the O2 sensor - but! - This doesn't work with full throttle, so whilst it would (should, to a point) drive quite normally with light throttle, when you hit the GO pedal you'd have to be down on power .... BTW, there's a fairly large margin of error built into the system, ie, the pump is about 75 psi (5 bar) running free, but the fuel rail is regulated down to about 38 psi. (But is altered slightly by the inlet manifold vacuum, eg, at idle, fuel px is low(er), and at full throttle is high(er). ) Sound about right? The B man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Gregory Chan" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 09:58:38 EDT Subject: Variable fuel pressure regulator Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone has come across a variable fuel pressure regulator which would fit on the fuel rail of the 4AG EFI system. gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 19:23:13 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: MR2 Digest , Subject: Momo Rims for sale Hi, The other day i read that someone on the list was looking for some rims to buy for there wife. Well, You're in luck because I have a couple of friends who want to sell their Momo Rims. 1.) Four Crome 15" Momo Quasar comes with tire (i think two are pretty new but the other two , I don't know.) Fits the 85-89/90 MR2 MK1. Looks great. I would buy them but can't afford it. Asking $900. 2.) Two Momo Quasar 15" with tires. Don't know the price. Oh, fits Mk1. 3.) Four 17", yes 17 inches, Momo Arrows. Tires are still good. One rim is kinda badly scratched. The other three are in prefect condition. Fits MKII. Don't worry they fit fine, and looks even better. Have you ever seen a MR2 with 17 inch rims before? Then you know how good it looks. Here comes the bad part asking $1250. If anyone out there is interested email me. Or you can call me at home after 6:30 at 415-467-6874. I live in San Francisco/Daly city area. Qui Hong quihong@sfsu.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 19:56:18 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: Toyota MODS , Subject: Re: Advice please on repair to offside wheel smash. :( Hi, Sorry about the car. I was wondering what color you painted your car to turn all those heads? Because I just painted my 88 MK1 MR2 Pearl Blue (White/dingy yelloy/goldess but in sunlight or headlights sparkling blue). Luckily/Not so luck I had my car all sanded down and ready to paint and I was backing out of a parking space and BAM! My driver side fender smashed into a pole which JUMPED out of nowhere!! Well, Only my fender was damaged luckily/unlucky. Oh, My alignment was off too(pulling to the right). It cost me $50 to fix. The mechanic really gave me a scare when he said that something might be bent. But noting was. Good luck with the repairs. Qui xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 07:04:29 -0400 To: Richard Doig , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Oil choice for turbo. >> > released a new blend at 5W-50, SH/CF rated ($60.95/4litres). My >> >> $15/quart (+/-)! Yow! What's the nz$/us$ conversion rate? Do you use ausie$ >> rates? > >That means Mobil 1 is NZ$15 per litre. This is approximately >US$10.20 per litre. Castrol RS is even more! That's about 3x the US cost. Is that all in shipping, taxes, import fees, etc? Or lack of competition in sales? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 18:05:38 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Back Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi there everybody, I am back with a good tan, ready to work another year full and enjoy our chat. I found out I could still get my e-mail on the remote island I was, though under long distance PTT tariffs. So I kept my replies short. Regards, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Aug 96 14:10 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: weber carbs wanted Anyone selling 55(preferably) or 50 weber dcoe's? Or do you know where I can get them for cheap? NOPI sells the 45's for $240 but they don't have 50 or 55. I will buy used ones if they are in good shape. Also. do you need special tools to properly install a rear end? I hear you need something special to align it right Thanks. bert kellerman 77 celica 20r xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 15:09:08 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: T -2 hours Well, in about 2 hours I should have my Lexus AFM & Lucas injectors upgrade. I'm starting to get an itchy feeling in my right foot. :) Incidentally, I've tried both the stock electronics and the Lexus electronics on both the stock AFM housing and the Lexus AFM housing, and as far as I can tell there are no real noticeable differences between the AFM electronics on the two units. Also, while I was blowing off some steam in a bar after work yesterday, someone put a handwritten note on my car offering to buy it from me. It's nice to see that some other folks have good taste too. :) Not like there's a chance that I'd sell it of course. But I take the offer as a compliment. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 13:20:00 -0700 (PDT) From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" Subject: RE: weber carbs wanted To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" Does Weber make a 55 or 50 mm DCOE? For the 20R, this size seems way too big. I think the typical size used when using 2 Weber DCOEs is 40 or 45 mm (or 44 mm if you are using Mikuni's). Bryan Zublin bzublin@gi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 17:00:08 -0600 Subject: Rebuilding Trans - Where to get parts To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello, It's about time to rebuild the trans in my Pickup - it's a G52 as far as I can tell, with the removeable belhousing. Anyways, how hard is it to rebuild this trans? Are there any special tools that I might need? Can I do it without a bearing press? (I lost access to one when I changed jobs.) Or if it's only a couple of bearings, I'll just take it to the machine shop to be pressed. Does anyone know where to buy bearings & synchro's cheaper than the local Toyota dealer? Thanks, Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 20:37:05 -0600 Subject: RE: weber carbs wanted To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" I agree, I use a 40mm weber (40dgav) downdraft, and I think it's fine for street use. If you're looking for all-out high-rpm race engine, then I guess you might need the breathing of 50 or 55's, but only at 9K rpm's + (calculate it out...) - Brain On Fri, 02 Aug 1996, "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" wrote: > >Does Weber make a 55 or 50 mm DCOE? For the 20R, this size seems way too >big. I think the typical size used when using 2 Weber DCOEs is 40 or 45 mm >(or 44 mm if you are using Mikuni's). > >Bryan Zublin >bzublin@gi.com > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 14:28:38 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: back again... I am very happy to say that I got my link back... Heven forbid if anything comes between me and the E world... Mine... 1980 Corolla SR-5 13T-U engine T-50 tranny Weber 32/36 carbie brand spankin new interior (courtesy of the Davis Hand-sewing firm... Word to the wise, pay somebody else to do your interior. It is WORTH the pain in the pocket to alleviate the pain in the hands...) THe 13T is a very interesting engine.. If anyone knows any more than I know about it (95 hp, 109 ft-lb torque, 1770 cc displacement) then please let me know! Til then, glad to be back... Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1/index.html /| / | / | / | /____| _______|___ _________\_________/___________ __ __ ____ ___ __ __ _ _____ __ _ ___ _ ____ ____ __ __ __ _ ____ ____ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 09:45:33 +1200 Subject: Well then. Yesterday was a brisk but sunny day as I met up with Phil Bradshaw to road test his Lotus 7. My first impression was: "Hey wow, what a stylie looking pink car." After chatting about power to weight, and Phil asking me if I had some warm clothes, we hopped in. My second impression was: "Where in hell are the shoe horns to get into this pup?" The car started up, and had a neat noise - the exhaust gave the car an almost grumbling buzz - one of those hard sounds to describe unless you've been there :) Cruising through the city, we chatted about kitsets, and people who owned them, and why they were so much faster than anything else if you knew what you were doing. Then we hit the open road. My next impression was: "Hey, this aint too bad for a motorbike. It's pretty bloody skippy for a car." Cornering was definitely a different feel, what with sitting right over the dif and drive wheels. Acceleration was something else - power to weight was impressive, with the car stacking in at about 600 kilograms soaking wet, and the new 20 valve 160+ bhp engine. After racing a very surprised Nissan 200SX Turbo owner, we stopped playing around and hit "The Hill." For those unfamiliar with The Hill, let's jut say that it's steep, winding, and lots of fun in a car that sticks to the road like dirt. Lots of fun sounds from the car - screeching, grumbling, roaring, the odd clank or two. Wind in the hair. Sun in the eyes. I'd stopped noticing the cold. And then down the other side. Gee lord, please let this car have good stopping power. I was in luck. Four wheel discs and sod all weight meant quick stops. Phil did me the courtesy of a quick spin behind the wheel. More initial impressions: "Where's the shoe horn?" "Gee, it's quite quick, isn't it?" "Oh, those things on the speedo are MILES, not kilometers, per hour. Ease off the peadal, huh?" "Wow, it sure is windy without those doors." Back into town to meet my partner, and pick up my car, and say goodbye to Phil. After getting back in my Celica, I noticed a couple of things: Damn, my steering wheel is big. Ho boy, there's a big travel difference in my gear changes. This car aint as quick as I thought it was. After sleeping on it... There would be no way in the world the Sleeka was ever going to beat the little Lotus in a straight line. Cornering was very similar, and I don't really know enough about the way the Lotus was built to comment on that. But all in all, I'd say that if I'm ever in the position to build me a car as a fun project, I know what I'll be building :) Hey y'all, that's it from me. Enjoy your cars, and happy Sunday :) Cheers Richard -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.actrix.gen.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 22:39:07 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: 18RG What an engine!!! Well after a week with me 18RG in I have come to the conclusion that it is f$%king great. It will pull from any gear at any revs to pass people. I think that it is even faster than my friends Pulsar ET Turbo. Won't be as good around the corners but I think my driving will make up for that. I eventually decided to just take the easy way out and put on twin 40mm Solex carbs. Now I just have to get the carbs in tune and she should fly. It's great pulling up beside yuppie racers in there hyundai excels, toyota paseos in this old grey (paint really crappy and all) celica and totally blowing them away. Well I feel my right foot geting itchy, MUST DRIVE. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Aug 96 20:39 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: re:Weber carbs wanted I realize the request for 50mm webers is not familiar, but neither is pulling 400 hps out of a supercharged 8 valve. The bad thing is My car needs to go on a diet. It comes stock at 3335 lbs(hatch,ac,manual 5sp) after a sh*t load of gutting, I think I MAY be down to 2800lbs, that doesn't include me either.That is still way too heavy!! Anyone know where I can locate a one piece fiberglass front end? MAS racing products is the major producer of them, but they didn't think anyone in their right mind would want one for a 77 celica. Oh well. ;) bert kellerman 77 celica 85 celica R.I.P 82 celica R.I.P xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: "G. D. Aucott" Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 14:25:48 +1200 Subject: Re: 1986 MR2 GT? Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hey there; On 26 Jul 96, G. D. Aucott wrote about 1986 MR2 GT?: > I just took my clutch parts to the local clutch fix-it shop for > resurfacing the flywheel, etc., and he asked me if it was a > "GT." I confidently said "No such thing" and he said his book > said there was, and it had a 4AGELC engine code. > I've never heard of an MR2 GT... was there one? I'd like to clarify > it today before I pick up the parts so I can be more informed. > Please e-mail me directly if you have comments. Thanks! Okay, yes there was an MR2 GT. Typically speaking, it was a pretty beasty little n/a engine. I don't know what years they were made, but a guy down here has one, and he's trying to sell it. His is an '84. He recons the performance is close to that of the SC version, of course without the extra torque and accerlation, but much better than the standard 4AGE (?) engine. You'd know if you had one, because it'd have a big "GT" sign on it - it's the Grand Tourismo version of the car, and typically costs more to buy from new, and has some snappy performance parts as factory standard. I don't know about the US, but here in NZ (and Aussie too, I think) the GT versions of cars get good exposure - they're not a turbo or super boost assisted vehicle, so don't have the inherant dangers, but are a more powerful engine on the whole than the "standard" engine (I believe the MR2 standard n/a is called a "Bathurst" engine, as opposed to "Grand Tourismo") Does this help? -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.actrix.gen.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw) Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 14:35:43 +1200 Subject: Re: Oil/Sump inspection Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hey Phil; On 29 Jul 96, Phil Bradshaw wrote about Oil/Sump inspection: > Things that go bump in the night - In my case it was an invisible > object in a friend's driveway that not only dented the sump but > cracked it too... Of course it missed the bash plate. The sump is > being welded and the bash plate extended as I write this. There's only one thing for it. Kill your friend for not having appropriate ground clearance on their driveway :) > Good news is that my trusty 20 valve that has done 40,000 km in my > car, exclusively on Mobil 1, is absolutely clean and sludge free > inside. I change every 5000k and a new filter every 10,000. I go > thru a litre of oil every 5000k - how does this compare with other > engines? I get almost no loss of oil whatsoever on my 3SGE - since having fixed my gasket seal (replaced with another one - old one was slightly cracked). However, due to the way I've now started driving, my oil gets dirty fairly quickly - I change about the same frequency (which reminds me, I must do it about now). Does this help? Our main company vehicle at work is a 1991 Corona SF 1.8 automatic, and is driven gently (you have to, the bloody automatic won't let you red the engine - not that I've tried, of course :). That pup has lost no oil as far as I can tell, and runs clean most of the time. Either it's possessed by the Angel of Good Oil, or this is a nice thing with well maintained jap engines. Anyone else got any comments? Cheers Richard -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.actrix.gen.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 20:12:50 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: Mods Toyota Subject: Weight of a '81 Celica? Does anyone know the weight of an '81 Celica? I'm guessing about 3200-3300 lbs... Ouch! Too bad Toyota's are built like tanks! (A good and a bad thing....) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Sonant@ix.netcom.com Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 00:47:06 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Sonant@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Stephen Wan Location : Fairfield, CA Model : 84 Camry Engine : 2SE Mods : 9"K@N, 2 1/4"Flowmaster, Advanced timing, Chrysler 15' wheels, Continental ch90's, "shortened" front springs, F40/race style spoiler, Volvo front spoiler, Fuba antenna, Blazer fog/turn signals, Niken pedals email : Sonant@ix.netcom.com Picture : http://user.aol.com/camryman2/gallery/cam00009.html xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 08:45:33 -0500 (CDT) From: Scott Davis To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 18RG What an engine!!! And to think that I had a golden oportunity to purchasee one for a song (less than 70 bucks) and didn't know what it was.... DAMN DAMN DAMN. Oh well, the truck now belongs to my sister. (72.5 hilux) Question for those of you who know about 4A's... I have a good chance to pick up a tired block/head for nothing (80 bucks at a local wrecking yard) and the only drawback right now is I have no space to put it; What kind of performance figures can I expect out of the 4A and with what mods? I am kinda thinking about making this one a killer engine, building it up pretty good and then swapping it for my current setup when time allows. And can anyone reccommend a good place to pick up a set of springs for a corolla? Thanks, Scott ssdavis1@students.uiuc.edu http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ssdavis1/index.html /| / | / | / | /____| _______|___ _________\_________/___________ __ __ ____ ___ __ __ _ _____ __ _ ___ _ ____ ____ __ __ __ _ ____ ____ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 11:02:07 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: Re: me/mine/mods Since I was off the list for a while, here's the required: Name : Bruce Crawford Location : Staten Island, NY Model : 1989 MR2 n/a Engine : 4AGE Mods : conical K&N, bored TB, 250cc/min blueprinted injectors, cams, TRD header (Jethot coated), homebrewed exhaust, Jacobs ignition, Nology wires, Beru plugs, Illuminas, Eibachs, ST swaybars, 15x7 whls w/205/50 A509, Porterfield R4S, bla, bla. You get the idea email : crawford@planet.earthcom.net Picture : Still too lazy to scan photos and build homepage. Later, Bruce and Martha Crawford...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net '79 RX7 GS (ITA) '83 RX7 GSL (w/EFI 13B) '89 MR2 (Modded) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 96 12:04 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: Re: Rebuilding Trans - Where to get parts >At 05:00 PM 8/2/96 -0600, you wrote: >>Hello, >> >> It's about time to rebuild the trans in my Pickup - it's a G52 as far as >>I can tell, with the removeable belhousing. Anyways, how hard is it to rebuild >>this trans? Are there any special tools that I might need? Can I do it without >>a bearing press? (I lost access to one when I changed jobs.) Or if it's only a >>couple of bearings, I'll just take it to the machine shop to be pressed. >> >> Does anyone know where to buy bearings & synchro's cheaper than the >>local Toyota dealer? >> >>Thanks, >> Brian >> You need internal and external snap ring pliers, some pin punches, a bearing puller slide hammer, uhhh.. and maybe a hydraulic press The reason I know is because I was inquiring about doing it too... I heard it's a pain in the ass, and worth the time and money to buy a rebuilt one, but You never know,..I guess it could be fun. bert xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 96 13:02 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: me/mine/mods I sent my mods earlier but I don't think I did it right so here goes again. name:bert kellerman location: Louisville,ky car:77 celica hatchback engine:20r 2189cc 8valve mods:my car is in the making but here's a list so far HEAD: erson 276(too small) cam,erson springs, shims ,and keepers, bronz valve guides, copper head gasket( I need to get new rocker arms but have put it off so far because of price. If anyone has a story about a friend using an old rocker arm on his hi perf. engine and it causing havoc, i need to hear it and get some sense into me.) head milled true, i am currently looking for a shop to (and valve job) port and polish and polish combustion chambers, new head bolts BLOCK: 9:1 hardened top paeco pistons, deves piston rings, new steel forged crankshaft, ACL duraglide bearings, i have 3 original rods and 1 new one(I am considering new ones), new oil pan, (investigating baffles and windage trays, would love advice) new OEM oil pump, i heard that stock capacity usually does the trick, 6 lb. aluminum flywheel with paeco clutch cover and disc new flywheel, rod bolt(I am investigating the anti heat/friction coatings for pistons and bearings, advice wanted!) OTHER STUFF: oil cooler, flex fan, underdrive crank pulley,mallory ign. coil, ( I need the box and distributor), uhhhh.. I am looking around for a supercharger and my best bet so far is ATI's universal p600 for 1800 bucks. If any body knows of a used one or cheaper one for sale, Please tell me!!! I also need the weber carbs i mentioned earlier. SUSPENSION/BRAKES: kyb shocks and struts, suspension techniques springs, Addco sway bars with polyurethane bushings and adjustable end links New upper an lower spring insulators in the back A disc brake conversion is too expensive so I bought EVERY single piece new for my rear brakes , I mean every piece! I am in search of cross drilled rotors for the front. I use Prostop brakes, but I heat treated them in my toaster oven( If you want info, ask) Oh yeah I have new u joints too. Ineed to locate rear end gears for that car !!! Advice wanted! INTERIOR: COMPLETEY gutted need to lose weight (any advice) WEll there it is although i know I forgot some stuff. Anyone that has knowledge on the topics I am looking , pleas help me! Thanks a lot ;) Bert 77 celica xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 14:58:43 -0400 To: Bert Kellerman , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Rebuilding Trans - Where to get parts >>At 05:00 PM 8/2/96 -0600, you wrote: >>>Hello, >>> >>> It's about time to rebuild the trans in my Pickup - it's a G52 as >>>far as >>>I can tell, with the removeable belhousing. Anyways, how hard is it to >rebuild >>>this trans? Are there any special tools that I might need? Can I do it >without >>>a bearing press? (I lost access to one when I changed jobs.) Or if it's >only a >>>couple of bearings, I'll just take it to the machine shop to be pressed. >>> >>> Does anyone know where to buy bearings & synchro's cheaper than the >>>local Toyota dealer? >>> >>>Thanks, >>> Brian >>> > You need internal and external snap ring pliers, some pin punches, a >bearing puller > slide hammer, uhhh.. and maybe a hydraulic press > The reason I know is because I was inquiring about doing it too... > I heard it's a pain in the ass, and worth the time and money to buy a >rebuilt one, but You never know,..I guess it could be fun. > > bert My first tranny I ever bought for my '85 MR2 was about $325 - complete. Take out the old and put in the new. If the tools/etc are more then the tranny, even used ones are reasonably priced. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 1996 08:42:16 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: weber carbs wanted Guys here in NZ run 4AGEs on 45 DCOEs, no bigger - even when pumping out 230 horse... My 20 valve throttle bodies (it has 4) have 42mm throats and make 165 horse. I believe they use only 38 mm chokes on the 45 DCOEs, but dunno why they don't use 40DCOEs. A standard 4AGE at 88kW will run happily on 45DCOEs. Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 1996 08:48:05 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Tyres vs fuel economy Peoples, Recently I went from 185/70 x 13 Dunlop Daytonas (really hard - got 75,000 km out of 5 tyres) at 28 psi to Bridgestone RE 710 195/60 x 14 at 22 psi and a lot grippier. My fuel economy has dropped by about 10%. Best I can figure the rolling diameter is identical (to within 0.5mm), (and besides, the odometer would still read the same, the car would just physically travel a different distance). Anyway, anyone had similar experiences when changing to a much grippier tyre? I suspect I drive it harder as it can corner much faster - I will probably put it on the track next month and see how my lap times have changed. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (Lotus 7 Replica) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 19:16:24 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: '85 Camry a/c - R-134a conversion steps. My bud from South Florida did the coordination for his mother's '85 Camry a/c repair, and now they is seriously displeased. The compressor bearings on the compressor went south, which then tore up the clutch (bad bearings made the clutch work too hard). He was able to get a new Toyota compressor/clutch *cheap*, so he had a shop do the labor. He (mistakenly) agreed when they suggested he convert from R-12 to R-134a. The shop basically just removed the old compressor, put in the new one, vacuumed the system, dumped in the necessary oil, filled it with R-134a, and tested for leaks. The problem is, they didn't do anything else. They didn't put in a different condensor or evaporator, didn't replace the expansion valve, and didn't replace any o-rings. So now his mother says it blows nowhere near as cold as it did previously. Not knowing a *lot* about industrial chemistry and refrigerants, I'm not quite sure exactly what to suggest. It would appear that the drop in 'cooling effect' is sufficient to justify that they do *some* sort of warranty work - replace more parts, but not charge him for the vacuum and recharge, since they didn't do a comlete job the first time. Does anyone know enough about the a/c system on a mid-80's Camry, to suggest something to make the system blow colder. I have the suspicion that the system needs a much more efficient condensor (since R-134a doesn't have the same level of efficiency of R-12?), and most probably a different expansion valve (different 'fogging' characteristics?). Or should he apply enough pressure, and get them to replace the R-134a with R-12, and make them do it for free (since it doesn't cool anywhere near as well as the old system did)? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Is there any sort of FAQ for this? Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 20:58:11 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Snow tires and tire mouting info for '91T MR2? My rear tires are about sending me warning signs that they are getting ready for replacing, and I am looking at snow tires for this coming season, so I figured I'd hit the groups for some info. a) I've got RE-71's up front, and am working through my first pair of A509s on the rear. The RE-71's don't look like they change much over the last 10k miles, but the A509's wore *rather* fast. Any recomendations for the rears? I hear RE-71s are out of production, I've been happy with the A-509's, and I'm trying to decide if I should go the 'extra mile' and bite the cost for the AVSi's. Any comments welcome. b) It's early August, so I guess it's time to start thinking about snow tires. I've got a set of '92 oem MR2 steel rims (with steel lugs and wheel covers, 14x6f, 14x7r) sitting in my garage just waiting for the right set of snow tires to come along. I've heard a lot about Blizzaks(sp?, Goodyear?), but beyond that haven't looked that hard, until now. Anyone out there with a '91T-'92T, running stock sized (195/60-14f, 205/60-14r) snow tires? Back when I put in a little bit of effort, the problem seemed to be the off-sizes (mis-matched f/r) - I could get one good tire in one size, and one good tire in the other, but no one had both sizes in one tire (*in stock*, this was local, not mail order). c) And for those local to Metro Detroit (or even Ann Arbor), can anyone recommend a *good* tire store that will mount mail-order tires (without giving me a hassle), has an aluminum-rim mounting machine and does a good job balancing? I expect more input from (a) and (b) then from (c), but *any* info would be greatly appreciated. And a few thoughts - I didn't believe the milage stories u ntil I've been through my first set of rear tires (A509's all around lasted 40k on my Mk 1!). And I'm going to *wump* the next person who tells me I *don't* need snow tires on my MR2 (most of those saying that use all-weather or multi-purpose tires year-round)! I had A509's with *nice* tread depth last season, and it was like driving on ice. TIA. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 18:39:59 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: Bruce Crawford Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: me/mine/mods What is your 1/4 mile time? Qui On Sun, 4 Aug 1996, Bruce Crawford wrote: > Since I was off the list for a while, here's the required: > > Name : Bruce Crawford > Location : Staten Island, NY > Model : 1989 MR2 n/a > Engine : 4AGE > Mods : conical K&N, bored TB, 250cc/min blueprinted injectors, cams, TRD > header (Jethot coated), homebrewed exhaust, Jacobs ignition, Nology wires, > Beru plugs, Illuminas, Eibachs, ST swaybars, 15x7 whls w/205/50 A509, > Porterfield R4S, bla, bla. You get the idea > > email : crawford@planet.earthcom.net > Picture : Still too lazy to scan photos and build homepage. > > Later, > > Bruce and Martha Crawford...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net > '79 RX7 GS (ITA) '83 RX7 GSL (w/EFI 13B) '89 MR2 (Modded) > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:10:57 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: patisi@wt.net (patrick ikhifa) Subject: Why No Information about the 4A-GE motors in the UK Guys, I recently purchased a copy of Fast Car magazine from a local newstand here. I was rather surprised to find nothing of mention about any competitive Corollas or MR2s in the UK. From cover to cover, all mention was basically on the diefied Ford Escorts. It appears that they've dicontinued the Cosworths and now have the RS2000. Honorable mentions were made of the VW family of cars(Gulf, Corrados) and the venerable Renault R5s. Not much on Accuras, Hondas, nor Mitsus either, left me baffled!. I imagine these cars were exported to the UK, or is it just the bias of the guys at Fast Car? Will appreciate any response and enlightenment. Patrick '86 GT-S Corolla. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 19:18:07 -0700 Subject: Re: Snow tires and tire mouting info for '91T MR2? To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon), On Sun, 4 Aug 1996, bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) wrote: > > And I'm going to *wump* the next person who >tells me I *don't* need snow tires on my MR2 (most of those saying that use >all-weather or multi-purpose tires year-round)! I had A509's with *nice* >tread depth last season, and it was like driving on ice. The AVSi is nothing short of scary with a bit of snow or ice on the road. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "So anyway, two penguins walk into a bar . . . " - Anonymous xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 1996 14:26:31 +1200 To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon), From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: re: tires for '91T MR2? >a) I've got RE-71's up front, and am working through my first pair of A509s >on the rear. The RE-71's don't look like they change much over the last 10k >miles, but the A509's wore *rather* fast. Any recomendations for the rears? >I hear RE-71s are out of production, I've been happy with the A-509's, and >I'm trying to decide if I should go the 'extra mile' and bite the cost for >the AVSi's. Any comments welcome. I recently put Bridgestone RE710 tyres on my car - these are the RE71 replacement. They are supposed to be superior to the RE71 in every respect - I have found them superb in the wet, however the old 70 profiles I ran were garbage. I changed rims and now have 195/60 x 14. Give them a go, they come in H and V speed ratings for most sizes, mine are H. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve Lotus 7 replica xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 1996 15:52:11 +1200 To: patisi@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (patrick ikhifa), From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: Why No Information about the 4A-GE motors in the UK Stand by for some one eyed views! You could argue the same about the Australian magazines (I can say that because NZ can't support any!) which deal heavily with rotaries and early 80s motors - they have a market to cater to if they want to stay in business. The fact that the market has a closed mind is unfortunate but is not necessarily something the magazine can do much about. Conversely, maybe we should contact the magazines and see if they want to feature our toys - if no one tells them what is out there, how are they supposed to find out - ESP? I put down the lack of info in the UK to a strong 'Jap is Crap' mentality and related biasing - seriously, who in their right mind would otherwise bother messing around with a pushrod escort motor etc? Caterham's release of the 1.8 Rover K-series engined 7 is eagerly awaited and there is talk of a VVT model - whoopee. My 1600 20 valve has been in production for 5 years and still makes more grunt. Small minds - their loss - should we be surprised with the football hooligans and Northern Ireland troubles that they have some funny attitudes!? Don't forget that Japanese cars do not sell that well in Europe - my view is that the French get a lot of say in the EEC and push for tariffs that make imports unattractive (due to their poor domestic manufacturing performance - they are too busy crying about how the Japanese are dumping cars and therefore applying tarriffs as opposed to sorting out their own design, quality, unions and productivity. The rest of Europe isn't much better either, so they all join in). There is a big emphasis on internal EEC marketing of products, hence they try to exclude a lot of offshore product. We Kiwis are long suffering over this crap with our Meat/Dairy produce - we can ship it to Europe and still undercut the locals, so they whack prohibitive (protectionist) tariffs on it - mainly due to French. The UK roads are full of Fords and Vauxhalls, with Peugots, Renaults, Fiats etc not far behind - just check top seller lists. I also don't think the 4AGE etc is sold new anymore - I thing they only sell the 4AFE and 20 valve (and that is only in Japan), so there isn't a hot 1600 anymore. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ BTW - like a lot of Kiwis I don't have a lot of time for the French due to: a. Rainbow Warrior bombing b. Nuclear testing in South Pacific c. Protectionist trade policies. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 00:00:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: ['90 Supra/7MGTE] Injectors & AFM results (VERY long! New record?) Well, I got my Lexus AFM & 550 cc injectors installed Friday afternoon and have been really putting them to the test over the weekend. They're basically working as advertised, but my car seems slower than it should be, and now I've got to figure out why. Anyway, here's the story: What the process involved (so far) was merely to replace the stock AFM with the Lexus one, pull out the old injectors and replace them with the Lucsas 550 cc ones, and cut the injector harness and splice in the new connectors. Really fairly simple operation. I have an idle richness (I believe) screw that we're supposed to put on, but neither my mechanic nor myself could figure out where to put it. Also, I have a modified fuel pressure regulator coming, which I think is supposed to raise fuel pressure from 43 to 50 PSI, if I remember correctly, though I don't know the details (Reg?). First thing I noticed is that the idle is really rough. That's ok, though, because the new screw is supposed to fix the bad idle. Since we couldn't figure out where to put the screw I've just put up with the poor idle for the past few days. I've been turning the AC on, which raises the idle to 900 rpm where it smoothes out quite a bit. Anyway, after I drove around for a little while I adjusted the EVC up from .53 bar (7.8 PSI) .01 bar at a time and decided to stop at 1.00 bar (14.7 PSI). The car felt quite a bit faster, once the boost came on. I'd estimate a 25% power gain. It was pretty intoxicating, but I only played with it a bit, being very careful to listen for knocking/detonation. The idle was so poor I always got worried whenever I came to a light that I'd blown something, but so far everything seems fine. Saturday morning I put in Jeff M.'s Supra VF Meter. It fits fine in the ashtray hole with the EVC, nearly perfect in fact. It's such a tight fit that they both are just wedged in there and don't move at all. I think I'm going to spray paint the VF meter housing black though to match the rest of the dash. Anyway, it's behavior is interesting... 98% of the time it reads fully lean, the last LED! When I let off the throttle, it quickly zips over to fully rich, then when I push down again it goes back over to fully lean. It will creep up to the next light up, between perfect and lean, under middle rpm moderate load, but that's pretty rare. I drive around with it on fully lean almost all the time. Now, if I floor it, it stays on fully lean until about 4 PSI boost pressure at which time it zips over to fully rich and stays there all the way up to 1.0 bar. If I put the car in fifth gear and floor it, it will count up the LEDs one at a time, from lean, half-lean, perfect, flash through half-rich, then stop at fully rich. I almost always spend all my time at fully lean for driving around town, then zip over to fully rich when decelerating or under hard acceleration. It spends almost 0 time at any of the rest of the LEDs. I'm not sure exactly what the VF meter is measuring. As I understand it, it displays what the ECU thinks the air-fuel mixture is like, but as far as I understand it could just as easily be displaying what the ECU wants the mixture to be (not necessarily the same thing). Jeff or Reg, can you enlighten me? I'm also not sure if the Lexus AFM could be skewing the ECU's interpretation of the A/F mixture. The ECU doesn't know anything about the larger injectors, and doesn't know that the AFM is bigger. It just detects that for some reason air flow seems pretty low, and therefore the injectors should get a small pulse width. Anyway, as far as the engine is concerned things even out fine between the larger AFM and the larger injectors, but I wonder if the ECU's picture of things isn't off. That could be why the ECU does flop over to fully rich until 4 PSI, instead of at 0 or so where you'd expect. So, with the VF meter indicating everything's fine with the EVC set for 1.0 bar, and me hearing no knocking/detonation, I decide I've got to get an absolute measurement on how much power I'm putting out. So I make the trip over to Gainesville (75 miles) and go to the drag strip. I'm fairly disappointed with the results. I don't really care about elapsed times, but I expected mph to be in the 105 mph range, maybe even 110. I came far short. My first three runs were 15.7 sec @ 99.5 mph, 15.3 @ 99.4, and 14.99 @ 99.3, all within a 35 minute time period. I rolled right off the street, where I had been running hard, and onto the track, so the engine was very hot. Also, the temperature was about 85 degrees with 100% humidity (it had been raining a couple hours before). My race experience: first time I raced some dude in like a 1980 GM 4-door piece of crap, who got a 18.2 @ 77.2 mph. But the second and third times I raced a previous-generation Mustang Cobra (did they have Cobras then? It had "Cobra" written on the intake manifold). _She_ beat me down the quarter mile both times, which sort of irked me, though I did have better trap speeds. I had big traction problems. The new power really has thrown off my launching techniques, which previously worked ok. Anyway, her two runs were 14.1 @ 97.1 and 14.3 @ 94.7. There were about four other previous generation Mustangs. One was I think a bone-stock GT, which ran terrible, 16.x @ 88.x, one was a bit slower than the Cobra I raced, 15.x @ 95.x, and two were on nitrous, one at 12.x @ 110 and the other at 13.x @ 106. There was a new Camaro SS with huge (315 series) tires on the rear, which looked silly on that car. It had good times (13.9 - 14.0), but poor speed (96.x mph). There was another new model Camaro Z28 with upgraded exhaust that ran low 14s at 97.x mph too. Then there was a Buick GN that was running 13s at 103.x mph. I felt a bit better that I was faster (not quicker) than most of the other street cars, but I'm still short of where I should be. There was one new stock 'vette that ran 13.9 @ 100.1 mph, but that was about 2 hours after I ran, his first run of the day, and the air temperature was about 10 degrees cooler. I'm confident I would have been faster under the same conditions. I did race after that, after the engine cooled down somewhat, but I set the EVC too high (1.05 bar) and banged the fuel cut all the way down the quarter mile. I threw that time slip away since it was terrible, and then they ended time trials and moved on to eliminations. Since I had gained enough data I decided enough abuse on the car and went home. I was pretty depressed that I was at least 5 mph short of the power I thought I should be making. Anyway, I've done a bit more experimenting and observing since then. Based on how the Camaros and the Corvette were running, I estimate I was getting about 310-320 hp. I've also done quite a few third and fourth gear full-throttle runs. Even though I had the EVC set at 1.0 bar, in third gear it would spike to .96 (14.1 PSI) briefly then waver between .88 (12.9 PSI) and .92 (13.5 PSI) and drop to around .80 bar (11.8 PSI) at 6000 RPM, and in fourth gear it would go up to around .92 bar and drop to about .85 bar (12.5 PSI) at 6000 rpm. So, down the quarter mile my boost would jump up to 14 PSI then drop down to 12 the faster I went. I would set the boost higher, but even at 1.0 bar I banged the fuel cut 10+ times driving around today and decided enough was enough. I have it set at .95 bar, and the measured boost levels hover around .05 bar less than the ones I listed above. Anyway, driving around in Gainesville I met that guy I mentioned a year ago, who was running 15 PSI with a FCD and no FCON on the stock turbo and injectors. He's since changed things around a fair bit. He still has the stock turbo & injectors, FCD, and no FCON, but he's dropped boost to 10.5 PSI to be safer, plus put on the Greddy 70? mm exhaust, no cat, 75 mm catless downpipe, Spearco intercooler, K&N drop-in filter, and upgraded springs and shocks. When I dropped my (set, not measured) boost down to .65 bar (9.6 PSI) his car and mine are about dead even up to fourth gear. However, when I set my boost up to .90 bar (13.2 PSI, set, not measured again) I really didn't gain much on him! I just creeped on him in third and fourth gear. I'm not sure why there wasn't more of a difference between boost levels, and between our cars considering I have over him the Super-H turbo, upgraded injectors, and ran slightly higher boost (actual, not set). He has over me the 75 mm catless downpipe, which he is going to give to me and he's going to get another one made. Nice of him. :) He did say that it made a very noticeable difference. I'll report more when I get it on. The guy's name is Anil, and he's not on the list yet but he does have an email address that he only uses occasionally. He did say that he's visited the Supra web page though. :) I'm going to subscribe him to the list and hopefully he will participate. BTW, he changed his deck out with a Pioneer double-din CD & cassette with full LCD display and all kinds of fancy stuff. I was impressed. I didn't hear much of the stereo though, mostly engine noise. :) Also, I hate to be an environmental menace, but I have another anecdote on cats. My mechanic has done a '91 Supra Turbo with HKS sport turbo, HKS injectors, FCON, HKS intercooler, and that guy was having trouble with boost dropping from 14 PSI to 10 PSI at high rpm. My mechanic said the guy decided to gut both his cats and apparently the problem went away. The guy seemed surprised by the magnitude of difference. Ok... that's (finally) about all the data I have to give. Now, I'd like people's thoughts on what I need to do to generate more power. It disturbs me that HKS can get 435 horsepower at 15 PSI, when I'm getting 310 or so at 13 PSI. Those extra 2 PSI would raise me to about 332 hp, if I could get around the fuel cut (*sigh*), but that's still 100 shy of HKS's figures. Here's the HKS stages: Stage 0: stock 230 hp @ 5 PSI Stage 1: Turbo exhaust 251 hp @ 8 PSI Stage 2: Power flow filter 256 hp @ 8.5 PSI Stage 3: EVC 282 hp @ 11 PSI Stage 4: Intercooler 295 hp @ 11.5 PSI Stage 5: FCON 327 hp @ 13.5 PSI Stage 6: VPC 342 hp @ 13.5 PSI Stage 7: Sport turbo, 550 cc injectors 435 hp @ 15 PSI Stage 8: Camshafts 450 hp @ 15 PSI I have the exhaust (75 mm), EVC, Intercooler (Cartech/BEGI), upgraded turbo (stock CT-26 housing with Super-H compressor wheel, clipped exhaust), 550 cc injectors, Lexus AFM (larger = less restriction), 2nd cat gone. I would figure that I'd be able to get maybe 370-380 hp at 15 PSI, giving away 50-60 hp to HKS for the larger HKS turbo & intercooler, so I seem to be maybe 35-40 hp shy of where I should be at current boost levels. Here's the possibilities for why I might be short on power: - Running rich? - Running lean? - I do have a misfire at all RPMs when I rev the engine, but that might be due to either the lack of the modified FPR or the lack of the modified idle screw. Or it could be that spark plugs are gapped wrong? - Turbo isn't flowing as much air as I think it is, just heating it to give boost without mass flow? - Timing is overly retarded? - EVC boost gauge is off, and I'm running less boost than I think I am? - Primary cat is causing so much backpressure engine has to work too hard to push exhaust gases out? - Compression is down from my 1.5 mm vs. 1.2 mm stock head gasket, but would it make that much difference? Maybe my pistons are differently sized, but not as far as I know. - Something wrong with the internals of the engine? (I don't even want to THINK about this one). Blow-by, burned valve, warped head, ugh... - HKS lies about their power levels? I would like to pull the plugs to see if they can tell me if I'm running rich or lean, but I've only been running the new injectors for 2 days, which is the same amount of time I ran the Lexus AFM with the stock injectors, so I suspect results would be hard to interpret this early on. Anyone have suggestions for me? So, what prize do I win for the longest message ever? :) Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo/7MGTE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 00:12:26 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: Re: ['90 Supra/7MGTE] Injectors & AFM results (VERY long! New record?) BTW, I've pretty much determined that I've got to get an FCON with FCD to eliminate the fuel cut once and for all, but I'm not (really, I'm not... erg, must ... maintain ... control!) going to blow another $1000 now, there's no way I can afford it. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 21:39:23 -0700 From: GeneK To: supras@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota Modifications Mailing List Subject: Re: ['90 Supra/7MGTE] Injectors & AFM results (VERY long! New record?) Aaron Buhr wrote: > > BTW, I've pretty much determined that I've got to get an FCON with FCD > to eliminate the fuel cut once and for all, but I'm not (really, I'm > not... erg, must ... maintain ... control!) going to blow another $1000 > now, there's no way I can afford it. > Oh, go on...you know you're gonna do it sooner or later...if you wait the price will just go up...just reach for the phone....pull out that credit card...:-) Gene xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 16:58:34 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Why No Information about the 4A-GE motors in the UK Hiya all, (mainly those in the UK, though) > I recently purchased a copy of Fast Car magazine from a local >Fast Car? Will appreciate any response and enlightenment. > I was in the UK in July 1994, and I was lucky enough to come across (probably) the best 4AGe man in the country. His name is Richard Macer, and he lives at 24 Green lane, Hertfordshire. This is from memory, but I'll get the complete details in the next few days. He stocks just about everything you'd need for 4AGE's of all sorts, and has extensive experience in chassis development with AE-86's, 82's, and 92's. The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 5 Aug 1996 00:29:28 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: ['90 Supra/7MGTE] To: "Toyota Modifications Mailing Li" Reply to: RE>>['90 Supra/7MGTE] >> BTW, I've pretty much determined that I've got to get an FCON with FCD >> to eliminate the fuel cut once and for all, but I'm not (really, I'm >> not... erg, must ... maintain ... control!) going to blow another $1000 >> now, there's no way I can afford it. >Oh, go on...you know you're gonna do it sooner or later...if you wait >the price will just go up...just reach for the phone....pull out that >credit card...:-) >Gene Gene, have a heart! Aaron's trying to do the right thing... He deserves moral support! :-) :-) Anyone remember the Jaguar Support Group, that Peter Egan wrote about in Side Glances? Any time one of their group was tempted to buy an E type Jag he would call up one of the other members, whose task it would be to talk him out of it... sort of like a suicide prevention hot line... erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 1996 00:55:38 -0700 From: jgrospe@gptweb.globalpac.com (jgrospe) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2-Turbo Stock 0-60 times Anyone who has tried measuring the 0-60 performance of an MR2 Turbo, I'd like to get your results. Magazines report times anywhere between 5.9secs to 6.8 secs. My tests on my 92T, no matter what I do, only show a consistent 7.5secs at 500ft above sea level. Other cars that I have owned- I can bring to what magazines claim their 0-60 performance. My dealer said that my car is mechanically perfect. I tend to believe that especially since I'm getting quite a good power (seat of the pants) and mileage (ave of 28-29 mpg of combined hwy/city driving). The dealer added that the 0-60 times posted in auto magazines, because they were performed by professional drivers in controlled conditions, should have quite different result. I disagree. I think that a 1 second difference between my driving style and theirs is too much of an allowance when comparing merely 0-60 performance. The result of this survey will be used to determine the car's baseline performance before I start beefing up the engine. I don't know if I trust the numbers in the magazines or my stopwatch. Thanks again. In the spirit of Toyota, Joel Grospe 92 MR2 Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 01:58:38 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: Phil Bradshaw Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Tyres vs fuel economy I suspect that your decrease in fuel economy is caused by the decrease in tire pressure you are running. Try running closer to the max pressure indicated on the sidewall of the tire (Try 30-35 psi or so) I'm also willing to bet that your grip levels would also go up with with the increased pressure, although at the expense of of ride quality. You really shouldn't notice that much (only a few percent) difference in fuel mileage with the different tires. (I didn't when changing from 185/70 x 14s to 205/60 x14s) Dave On Mon, 5 Aug 1996, Phil Bradshaw wrote: > Peoples, > > Recently I went from 185/70 x 13 Dunlop Daytonas (really hard - got 75,000 > km out of 5 tyres) at 28 psi to Bridgestone RE 710 195/60 x 14 at 22 psi and > a lot grippier. My fuel economy has dropped by about 10%. Best I can figure > the rolling diameter is identical (to within 0.5mm), (and besides, the > odometer would still read the same, the car would just physically travel a > different distance). > > Anyway, anyone had similar experiences when changing to a much grippier > tyre? I suspect I drive it harder as it can corner much faster - I will > probably put it on the track next month and see how my lap times have changed. > > Phil Bradshaw > Palmerston North NZ > Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (Lotus 7 Replica) > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 02:11:29 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: Matti Kalalahti Cc: Mods Toyota Subject: Re: Weight of a '81 Celica? Ok, so the older Celicas weighed severeral hundred pounds more than the '79-'81 Celicas? Wow, that's a pretty huge difference! On Mon, 5 Aug 1996, Matti Kalalahti wrote: > > Does anyone know the weight of an '81 Celica? I'm guessing about > > 3200-3300 lbs... Ouch! Too bad Toyota's are built like tanks! (A good > > and a bad thing....) > > 1980 one was 2498lbs, I'd be surprised if '81 differed much. > Blame the R-series block... A 1980 Carina with 2T weighs 2337lbs. > And guess which one is heavier, a '83 Celica with 18R-GEU or 3T-GTEU? > The 18R-G one, by 11lbs... > > -- > Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 > k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... > A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 08:38:18 -0500 (CDT) To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon), From: fjo@escape.ca (Fred Oberbuchner) Subject: Re: Snow tires and tire mouting info for '91T MR2? >Steve B: I heard that Yokohama has a new winter tire out that will beat the snot out of blizzaks et al. Apparently, these new tires will hold their "snow biting" ability throughout the life of the tire unlike others on the market that "poop out" (technical term) after x% of treadwear. These yoks have some sort of nylon fibres purpendicular to the tread surface to accomplish this. Unfortunately, I don't know anything else about them (like sizes/etc). Regards, Fred Oberbuchner fjo@escape.ca xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 08:31:26 -0700 Subject: Re: MR2-Turbo Stock 0-60 times To: jgrospe@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (jgrospe), On Mon, 05 Aug 1996, jgrospe@GPTWEB.GLOBALPAC.COM (jgrospe) wrote: >Anyone who has tried measuring the 0-60 performance of an MR2 Turbo, I'd >like to get your results. Magazines report times anywhere between >5.9secs to 6.8 secs. My tests on my 92T, no matter what I do, only show >a consistent 7.5secs at 500ft above sea level. - snip - >The >dealer added that the 0-60 times posted in auto magazines, because they >were performed by professional drivers in controlled conditions, should >have quite different result. I disagree. I think that a 1 second >difference between my driving style and theirs is too much of an >allowance when comparing merely 0-60 performance. I haven't done any hard testing on my car, but I'll offer this: The acceleration runs that magazines put cars through can be downright abusive if not risky to the clutch and tranny. The quickest acceleration times in the MR2 Turbo require dropping the clutch fairly hard from above 4500 rpms in first. From there it's a no-lift scenario. I.e. If they can't find it easily, they'll grind it into the next gear - without lifting off the gas. This is the stuff that humiliated Mustang owners are made of. A healthy chirp into third during a drag from a mid-engine car is nothing to balk at. I think you're just guilty of wanting to make your car last. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo "That's one bad-ass car!" - Two girls in downtown Nashville xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 1996 11:08:44 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: greencg@gate.net Subject: TRD contact.. Hey, How do I get ahold of Toyota Racing Development, and is this a Factory Effort? thanks Chris Green Greencg@gate.net 87 Mister 2 n/a Black "Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve neither" Benjamin Franklin. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 96 08:57:51 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: I finally got it! Well after my long and hard search i finally found a MKIITurbo. It's a 92 with only 36,000 miles on it and i got it for a really good price. This was the previous owners weekend car so he only drove it on the weekends. The car is almost perfect and i can't believe i found it. Can't wait to start on those mods! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 96 09:07:31 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: turbo timer Now that i got my MKIIT i'm looking at some Turbo Timers. I've mostly seen people use the Greddy and HKS. Does anyone have any bad experiences with either or both? Or are they both good units? Thanks for any reply. hwang@nchip.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Mon, 5 Aug 96 13:19:03 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 1986 MR2 GT? To Dave and others, The New Zealanders are correct in there is an MR2 GT in Australia. This is a MK II and dates from June 1994. There was no GT model of the MK I. They are incorrect in that it DOES NOT have any more power than the "Bathurst" and both run the lastest 3SG's. The difference is that the car is in leather has an Airbag, better seats and stereo, ABS and LSD. Nobady want's to buy them, they cost more than a BMW and have very bad resale. The "Bathurst" is popular as its light and without the Turbo qualifies as an under 2 litre car. It is the fastest standard 2 litre in the country and probably in the world. It has had very good results in endurance races, power is 129KW.(96 RON) Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 1996 07:57:26 +1200 To: David Rees , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: Tyres vs fuel economy Dave, Thanks for your reply. Trouble is the car is so light (600 kg) that at anywhere near 30 psi it 'jumps' over the road... The guys who race them here swear on 22 psi, so I guess I will have to live with the economy - which is still not bad! I am a little concerned about long term effects of running the tyres 'underinflated' however everyone I haver talked to reckons that the low weight will make it ok. >I suspect that your decrease in fuel economy is caused by the decrease in >tire pressure you are running. Try running closer to the max pressure >indicated on the sidewall of the tire (Try 30-35 psi or so) I'm also >willing to bet that your grip levels would also go up with with the >increased pressure, although at the expense of of ride quality. You >really shouldn't notice that much (only a few percent) difference in fuel >mileage with the different tires. (I didn't when changing from 185/70 x >14s to 205/60 x14s) > >Dave Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve (Lotus 7 Replica) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 05 Aug 96 11:58:32 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: synthetic oil for MKIIT I know this question has been addressed before but now that i have a MKIIT i'd like to know if it would be safe and beneficial to switch to sythetic oil and what kind. The car has 36,000 miles on it. Thanks. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 1996 08:05:47 +1200 To: bagdon@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (S and K Bagdon), From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: re: tires for '91T MR2? Steve, >That's what I figured when I saw the RE710 tire mentioned before, that it >was the replacement for the RE71. But, unfortunately, with the way that the >Mk II MR2 goes through tires (10k-15k miles per set!!!), I have to worry a >lot about cost. The A509s seem to have the best wear/value ratio. > >So it appears it's either A509's, AVSi's or RE-710's. What to do? :) Well, over here in expensive NZ ($1 Kiwi = 68 US cents...) I bought my 195/60 x 14 RE 710's for $200 Kiwi, fitted and balanced, each (H rated). AVS were about $300, whilst the A509s were about the same as the RE710, but I made my choice based on the 710 performance on a friend's Corrolla GT and a good talk with the tyre guys - the 710 is a newer tyre than the rest, so finers crossed on technological advances! The 710 is supposed to be more durable than the RE71. I guess cost varies greatly with profile, but I thought the 710 was 'cheap' compared to a lot of tyres.... Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 1996 08:20:38 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 0-60 times Kip Anderson said: >The acceleration runs that magazines put cars through can be downright abusive >if not risky to the clutch and tranny. The quickest acceleration times in the >MR2 Turbo require dropping the clutch fairly hard from above 4500 rpms in >first. From there it's a no-lift scenario. I.e. If they can't find it easily, >they'll grind it into the next gear - without lifting off the gas. I have often wondered about this myself - going by the figures posted in magazines for Lotus 7s running identical power to weight to my car (160-odd horse) and taller diffs (3.9 vs my 4.44) are 'capable' of sub 5 second ie 4.5 0-60 times... My old engine (16V 4AGE 88 kW) with just me in the car did 0-60 in 6 seconds even, timed off my video camera that was bolted in the car during a track meet - that power to weight was in magazines as achieving low 5s... What I do know is that my car obliterates most everyhing from a standing start, including 250cc motorbikes, and definately eats 5 - 5.8 litre V8s. I think the comment about us being too kind to our cars is very valid. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve "Wow - that was better than sex!" - genuine comment from female ex Flatmate after a blast around Auckland... Time for the girl to trade in partner for higher performance model methinks - cars are fun, but seriously! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 1996 08:44:12 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Oil pressure cut-out Harry wrote: >> Now that i got my MKIIT i'm looking at some Turbo Timers. I've mostly >> seen people use the Greddy and HKS. Does anyone have any bad >> experiences with either or both? Or are they both good units? Thanks >> for any reply. Can't help you on the turbo timer, other than saying I believe they area good idea, but you may want to consider adding a low oil pressure cut-out while you are at it. I have this in my car, on the theory that it prevents the car from starting until oil pressure comes up, and cuts the engine it if you lose oil pressure before you do nasty damage. Basically you put a 'normally closed' relay in the 'IG 2'line from the ignition switch to the engine, EFI etc etc, that is triggered open when the oil warning light comes on. If you have an electric gauge, just use a t-piece (VDO make a good one) and mount a generic Toyota oil light sender (I use stock Corolla) on the other leg of the T. The power to close the relay can come from 'IG 1' What happens is, when you turn the ignition switch on to run, only the car electrics ('IG 1') operate (wipers etc) - effectively because the engine leg is shut down still due to the oil light sender turning the relay 'off', so there is still no power to the engine. You then go to 'start' and the engine cranks on the starter motor, until enough oil pressure comes up to close the relay and turn on the engine. This varies, but takes about 5-10 seconds. Because the relay has cut out IG 2, the ECU, fuel pump, injectors, EFI warning light etc etc are all off, so all you have is an air pump until the oil pressure comes up. Carbied cars would flood, so you use the start position to overide the cut out, so you will still get start up wear, but benefit from the low pressure engine cut out. You can overide the cutout by pulling the lead off the oil switch (or putting a switch on/under the dash)for those times when the battery is a little flat (when you left the lights on) or you need a jump start. It is not wise to up the pressure cut out switch from standard (4-7 psi) - I tried a 15 psi one, but once the engine was hot, it couldn't get enough oil pressure to start at cranking speed! Obviously the instant you lose oil pressure the engine shuts down - no more gauge watching paranoia when you thrash your car! Phil Bradshaw. Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 1996 08:53:48 +1200 To: Harry Wang , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: synthetic oil for MKIIT Harry Wang said: > I know this question has been addressed before but now that i have a > MKIIT i'd like to know if it would be safe and beneficial to switch to > sythetic oil and what kind. The car has 36,000 miles on it. Thanks. I reckon! Theory is that although your engine is no longer new, using a synthetic will 'stop' engine wear at the level it is now. Make it even better by using an oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate, and the oil pressure cut out I have just posted. Not forgetting to view the cost of oil in relation to the cost of gas you go thru between oil changes - makes scrimping on quality oil look a little foolish... I like Mobil 1 because it is compatable with mineral oils (if you get in trouble and there is nothing else available) and is available at every mobil gas station in NZ - depends on where you drive, I guess. It seems to work well enough - I pulled my sump off after 40,000 k on mobil 1 (and the motor was already 30,000 old when I got it) and the internals were all clean, no deposits or sludge. I know some people reckon Mobil 1 is garbage - maybe it is - but it is still way better than the recommended oil, and if that is deemed good enough to give whatever engine warranty Toyota offer on Turbos, a synthetic will only improve things... Phil Bradshaw xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Scott, Dan" To: ToyMods Subject: Toyota world tour Date: Mon, 05 Aug 96 14:38:00 PDT Well not really the whole world and I'm not bringing my car but...... My wife and I are going to be traveling around SE Asia ,NZ and Aus. in a few weeks. If anyone wants to get together to drink a few and swap lies I'm game. We will be in NZ at the end of August then on to Bali, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand then to Brisbane and Sydney in November. I will be keeping my eyes open for tricked out Toys and those awesome sounding Loti (Lotuses??). If anyone is in to it just e-mail me at Dscott@ea.com. I will be here until the 25th of August. Thanks a bunch Dan Scott Dscott@ea.com '88 Celica Turbo 4WD PS. If any of the Kiwis on the list know of a decent place to stay in Auckland after many hours of air travel I could use some recommendations :) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 17:51:21 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MKI Exhaust Hi again, I've spent some time under the MR2 and made some exhaust changes, and this is what I found. For knowledge I have the intake removed and the Powermax 5" filter with MAF relocated up closer to the air vent. I had the stock exhaust manifold with cat and HKS exhaust, and it seemed to give good power throughout the power band and decent torque. I replaced the manifold with the TRD header and removed the cat (thanks RBC), and now the seat-o-the pants meter says the torque has moved to higher revs. Not really a surprise, but I definitely notice a difference. Is there more? Not sure... but I felt like there was more in the higher revs at the track... but if I was in too high a gear coming out of a corner... forget it. The really good thing that happened was the change in exhaust note. I found that with the cat and stock exhaust manifold the HKS was too quiet. Now, with header and no cat the car sounds SWEET! No, it's not obnoxiously loud, and it's quite pleasant in the car at all revs. You just hear a little of it at cruising speed and it doesn't have any of that mind blowing bass resonance that you can get in MK1s. I asked yesterday how it sounded when I autocrossed and they said "Great! Makes you say 'Hmm.. what's that?'" and take a look. :-) I can't wait to have someone else drive it so I can hear it outside the car. Have a good one! Dave A. daucott@aol.com '86 MR2, CSP autocrosser xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: "Harry Wang" , Subject: Re: synthetic oil for MKIIT Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 08:52:49 +1000 I agree with Phil, as long as your motor is in good nick make the switch to fully synthetic. Those people that call Mobil 1 garbage must be using it for cooking, this oil is fantastic. I recently pulled apart my old 180 hp 18RG (used Mobil 1 from new) which was regularly thrashed and it looked brand new. There was not a sign of wear on any of the cam journals, timing chain etc the bore still had the hone marks like they had just finished it ! I'm just going to bolt it back together and its probably going into a mates 2lt sports sedan Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: Phil Bradshaw > To: Harry Wang ; toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: Re: synthetic oil for MKIIT > Date: Tuesday, August 06, 1996 6:53 > > Harry Wang said: > > > I know this question has been addressed before but now that i have a > > MKIIT i'd like to know if it would be safe and beneficial to switch to > > sythetic oil and what kind. The car has 36,000 miles on it. Thanks. > > I reckon! Theory is that although your engine is no longer new, using a > synthetic will 'stop' engine wear at the level it is now. Make it even > better by using an oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate, and the oil > pressure cut out I have just posted. Not forgetting to view the cost of oil > in relation to the cost of gas you go thru between oil changes - makes > scrimping on quality oil look a little foolish... > > I like Mobil 1 because it is compatable with mineral oils (if you get in > trouble and there is nothing else available) and is available at every mobil > gas station in NZ - depends on where you drive, I guess. It seems to work > well enough - I pulled my sump off after 40,000 k on mobil 1 (and the motor > was already 30,000 old when I got it) and the internals were all clean, no > deposits or sludge. > > I know some people reckon Mobil 1 is garbage - maybe it is - but it is still > way better than the recommended oil, and if that is deemed good enough to > give whatever engine warranty Toyota offer on Turbos, a synthetic will only > improve things... > > Phil Bradshaw > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 21:40:53 -0500 To: From: patisi@wt.net (patrick ikhifa) Subject: Curious & Comments Guys, Pardon me but I have some issues to lay before you guys for my information. First the 18 R/RG motors I notice guys from AU and NZ talk about a lot. Was that car ever impoported into this country? I recall and 1800 cc motor but that was mostly in P/Trucks here. How old is the motor and did it have a twin camor a turbo version? I read about 125-180bhp! We didn't begin to see 180hp stock Toyotas in this country until the mid 80s, correct me if I am wrong. My second question concerns the MR 2 MK II, how in terms of character does it compare to the sweet sixteen? Now I know this is a personal question and answwers can run the gamut here. However, there are cars in the American arnals of automobiles that, liked them or not, they had character. We all know about the 327s, Hemis, Boss 302s to mention but a few. I ask this question because I have never had an opportunity to drive the newer MR 2s. My questions has nothing to do with speed or necessarily performance, it's more to do wioth passion one feels for an engine. The 4A-Ge loves to rev and with the right exhaust can produce a note that truly silky and estatic.The 4A-GE I know about, I characterize it as having a big heart; it's got a big heart!Friend of mine calls it a "Corolla with balls". he drives a 5.0. Now, I believe that Toyota continued in this tradition with the MK IIs but right now they are outside my range and have no friend to ake me for a spin in one. Hence, folks the question, I simply have no experience to compare it with. So please let's not start a long drawn out debate here. Finally, I saw an October 1988 issue of grassroots Motorsport (GSM) whcih featured the 1989 GT-S Corolla the first year it came as FWD to these shores. Here as some comparison numbers I thought I put out there for you all to chew on. This maybe stuff that's already been seen before. Vehicle Issue 0-60 60-0 Avg TestTime Lat Accel(g) 88 Honda Prelude SI March 1988 9.9 sec 3.3 47.5/ .87g 88 Toyota MR2 Super May 1988 7.4 sec 3.8 44.6 .89g 88 Honda CRX Si June 1988 8.71 sec 3.1 46.635 .887g 88 Corvette Conv. July 1988 6.15 sec 3.0 45.052 .85g 88 Pontiac Fiero GT Aug 1988 8.1 sec 3.3 47.631 .86g 88 Mazda 323 GTX Sept 1988 7.81 2.8 47.913 .80g 88 Mazda 323 GT Sept 1988 7.7 3.2 46.993 .84g 88 Corolla GT-S Oct 1988 8.8 3.0 48.029 .87g Does anyone know if the FWD numbers differ from the RWD numbers? The position of the magazine at the time was that the RWD still had a slight edge over the FWD. Comments Please. Patrick '86 Corolla GT-S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 5 Aug 1996 20:08:37 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: most fun you can have in To: "toyota mods" Reply to: RE>most fun you can have in car without back seat Phil, >"Wow - that was better than sex!" > Time for the girl to trade in partner for higher performance model methinks Well, you never know... what with the vibrations a 7 makes at speed, maybe there was more going on in the passenger seat, than you realized? ;-) ;-) erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 5 Aug 1996 21:10:40 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: Tyres vs fuel economy To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" Reply to: RE>>Tyres vs fuel economy Phil, you wrote: > The guys who race them here swear on 22 psi, so I guess I will have to live with the economy - which is still not bad! I am a little concerned about long term effects of running the tyres 'underinflated' If they are developing optimum grip at 22 psi, then I would guess they are NOT underinflated... for such a light car! But I suppose the real answer would be in how they wear over time... if it wears evenly across the tread, then it's at a good running pressure, right? erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 1996 17:14:11 +1200 To: Erik Berg , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: Tyres vs fuel economy Erik, Peoples, Regarding pressures: >If they are developing optimum grip at 22 psi, then I would guess they are NOT >underinflated... for such a light car! But I suppose the real answer would be in how >they wear over time... if it wears evenly across the tread, then it's at a good >running pressure, right? Yeah, I believe so, however I have always been under the impression that steel radials wear evenly regardless of inflation as the belt holds the tread flat, hence it can be dangerous to buy used tyres as the tread may look fine but the sidewalls can be stuffed from under-inflation... The only time they wear funny is due to alignment maladies - anyone able to confirm or refute this? Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint (Not a Bloody Fraser!) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Tyres vs fuel economy Date: Tue, 06 Aug 96 15:59:38 +1000 From: Peter Mejak >..... I have always been under the impression that >steel radials wear evenly regardless of inflation as the belt holds the >tread flat.... >.... The only >time they wear funny is due to alignment maladies - anyone able to confirm >or refute this? Hi Phil, Unfortunately not. From personal experience, overinflation leads to accelerated wear in the centre of the tyre. Happened on all 4 tyres, including the rears (live axle), so alignment didn't come into it. Cheers, Peter. ====================================================== Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia peterm@aus.hp.com ====================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 96 09:09:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Well then. To: Toyota Mods > Yesterday was a brisk but sunny day as I met up with Phil Bradshaw to > road test his Lotus 7. hehehehe, yet another victim has fallen under the 7's spell!! : ) Hey Phil ... Steve was talking to Neil Fraser, and said that he'd driven your car... Neil just laughed and said "geesshh, more Fraser owners have driven that car than Frasers!!! : ) hehehehehe Ade xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 20:44:55 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Tyres vs fuel economy Hiya all, >Thanks for your reply. Trouble is the car is so light (600 kg) that at >anywhere near 30 psi it 'jumps' over the road... The guys who race them here >swear on 22 psi, so I guess I will have to live with the economy - which is >still not bad! I am a little concerned about long term effects of running >the tyres 'underinflated' however everyone I haver talked to reckons that >the low weight will make it ok. > FWIW, my racing car weighs 491kg (1080lbs) with me in it, and I use 11psi in the fronts & 12 in the back tyres. (both set cold, they come up about 2-3 psi hot) The tyres are the old-fashioned cross-ply style, as that is all we can get for our 'Sports 1300' class. Can anyone top that for lower pressures? ;) (Or does anyone even _want_ to?? :) The B Man. P.S. I get only 8mpg when racing. Must be the tyre pressures ... ;) ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 96 12:13:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Toyota world tour To: Toyota Mods Hi Dan > Well not really the whole world and I'm not bringing my car but...... > > My wife and I are going to be traveling around SE Asia ,NZ and Aus. in a few > weeks. If anyone wants to get together to drink a few and swap lies I'm > game. We will be in NZ at the end of August then on to Bali, Singapore, > Malaysia, Thailand then to Brisbane and Sydney in November. I will be > keeping my eyes open for tricked out Toys and those awesome sounding Loti > (Lotuses??). hehehee ... well, I'm sure Phil will show you his pink bits!! ; ) (heheheehhe) And you're most welcome to see our fraser 7 in progress. : ) > If anyone is in to it just e-mail me at Dscott@ea.com. I will > be here until the 25th of August. cool. Well, I live 1.5 hours south of Auckland .. so if you're planning on coming down this way ... give me a call!! If not .. I might even pop up to Auckland for a visit! : ) Email me and let me know. Later Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car '9? Fraser 7 - lotus 7 replica kit being built AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand > PS. If any of the Kiwis on the list know of a decent place to stay in > Auckland after many hours of air travel I could use some recommendations :) Hmmm, don't ask me man .. i don't live there. Phil?? Can you help? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 08:31:58 -0700 Subject: Re: Curious & Comments To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Tue, 6 Aug 96, bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM wrote: >On a 20 degree (Cent) track using road tyres >the MR2 will lap 1-1.5 second slower than AE 86 with the AE 86 lap time >being 1.20 secs to 1.14 secs. The so called handling advantage of the MR-2 >is (sadly and I'm sorry to say it Harry P) fiction. I think Billzilla summed it up best by defining the difference between handling and roadholding. The MR2 of either MK is an excellent handling car out of the box, and it does very well "handling" quick transitions. This doesn't necessarily mean it's the best in terms of steady state "roadholding". Skidpad numbers show this. So yup, the roadholding ability of the car may not be as good in a circle, but throw in some twisties and I'm sure the story changes somewhat, although I must admit I'm not sure what an AE 86 is. Few cars are faster than the MR2 through a slalom. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo "That's one bad-ass car!" - Two girls in downtown Nashville xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Aug 1996 08:33:55 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Toyota powered Leitch Supersprint Webpage Dan Scott posted me and said there was a Leitch page on the web at: "http://www.napi.com/euroq/leitch/index.html" I am hopeless with the internet and ended up finding it via LYCOS search engine under 'Leitch Super Sprint'. The page looks quite smart, but is full of typos, I will let Barry Leitch know. There are a number of pictures including engine etc - trusty 4AGE on twin DCOE Webers that I assume develops 200 and not 2000 as quoted horse! Thought you may be interested - I never knew this existed! Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 6 Aug 96 15:52:35 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Curious & Comments There is no question in my mind that for outright circuit racing the AE86 (RWD) is the fastest of the 4AG configurations, the MR2 is by far the slowest. The FWD stands somewhere in the middle but they are very weak and people dont really like them. On a 20 degree (Cent) track using road tyres the MR2 will lap 1-1.5 second slower than AE 86 with the AE 86 lap time being 1.20 secs to 1.14 secs. The so called handling advantage of the MR-2 is (sadly and I'm sorry to say it Harry P) fiction. The 18RG or 2tG was never available in Aust. but so many were imported as engines in the 80's that I bet half the running TA22's and TA23's have them! Both engines can exceed 200BHP and both dont have trouble using Mobil 1! Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Tue, 06 Aug 96 14:55:25 -0600 Subject: G52 in 4x4 pickup - how to tell if early/late To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello, I have a question - in my '84 4x4 Pickup (build date 11/83) I have the late g52 trans, the truck was built with the early (10/83 to 8/84???) trans, but I think it has been swapped out with a later g52 (85-88 model yrs.)- how can I tell which one I have. The toyota parts people haven't a clue, except bring in the parts and match them up - not real good since they have to order most of them in- and IF I guess wrong it could be a couple of weeks before I get the right ones. Any experts? any advice? Should I just forget it and swap to a NV-4500 ;-) - Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Ted Looi Subject: Re: Curious & Comments To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 12:09:58 +1000 (EST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > I have an Idea, what about a battle of the 4AG's in Australia? > The place Philip Island in November (a full noise day of the Group 5 round) > Competitors...Perhaps Harry in the MR2, Bill and myself in my AE86 and I will > invite another few AE86's. Who can offer us an AE82 or AE 92? I'll offer a > $100 to the fastest lap time what do you think guys? > Bruce > Well, I would offer my AE82 FWD but Phillip Island is a long way from me. But I should be able to post some times soon from Lakeside to give an indication of road cars (my MX5 and Seca) though the Seca has had a lot more done to it. Trust me though, I do not expect my FWD AE82 to run harder than a "built for lap sprints" RWD AE86, and I know which I would prefer on a rally track, but maybe I can ask for my Uncle's "up for sale" DTM spec M3 to run some timed laps 8^) BTW his race mechanic used to build 4AGE race motors years ago, and their sprint motors would wind out to 10800rpm and produce about 220hp. The endurance motors were good for 9700rpm and 195hp. If you want some good power, talk to Stef at Motorsport in Nerang and he has some top Vtecs putting out some serious power overseas. TEd -- -----------------------@____@-------------------------------------------------- __/~> `--' Ted Looi, Network/Host Security, _/{___} DPI, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia /\ /\ '86 Seca AE82 4AGE "SXTC" '91 MX5 BRG ted@dpi.qld.gov.au "TALK TO ME" $ R we there yet?? Nope... R we there yet?? Nope... R we there yet?? Nope... ^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 1996 20:02:41 -0700 From: Val MacDonald To: Cyberspace Subject: 4AGE Version Re 4AGE; Toyota Japan & Toyota NZ both bring out an updated version of the 4AGE namely 4AG2E which is I believe the 4AGE block with a 20 valve head. Thanks for listening Val MacDonald Road 88 Celica GT4 3S-GTE 88 MR2 Supercharged 4AGZE Project (Speedway) 84 Fibre-glass Celice 3T-GTE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 20:07:39 -0700 Subject: RE: Curious & Comments To: Toyota Mods On Wed, 07 Aug 96, Adrienne Mora wrote: >It all comes down to the nut behind the wheel : ) And the squirrels would go crazy with this group . . . Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| 91 MR2 Turbo "That's one bad-ass car!" - Two girls in downtown Nashville xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 06 Aug 96 19:19:12 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2 vs. Eclipse Sorry to start another comparison war but i just wanted to know what you guys feel about this comparison since i just got an MKIITurbo and my roommate just bought a '96 Eclipse GSX. Out the box, which one is faster? From what i've read and seen, it seems these two cars are very close as far as 0-60 and 1/4-mile times. Does anyone know the exact figures? I just want to make sure i don't get beat by my roommate in his Eclipse. I'm sure i won't so he isn't serious about mods and performance. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 23:27:54 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Tyres vs fuel economy On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, Phil Bradshaw wrote: > Yeah, I believe so, however I have always been under the impression that > steel radials wear evenly regardless of inflation as the belt holds the > tread flat, hence it can be dangerous to buy used tyres as the tread may > look fine but the sidewalls can be stuffed from under-inflation... The only > time they wear funny is due to alignment maladies - anyone able to confirm > or refute this? > Well, I know for a fact that the shoulders of my radials always wear faster when I run lower pressures. I can also confirm this by watching the scuff marks on the edges of the tires after varying tire pressures. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Aug 96 08:25:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Curious & Comments To: Toyota Mods > There is no question in my mind that for outright circuit racing the > AE86 (RWD) is the fastest of the 4AG configurations, the MR2 is by far the > slowest. The FWD stands somewhere in the middle but they are very weak and > people dont really like them. On a 20 degree (Cent) track using road tyres > the MR2 will lap 1-1.5 second slower than AE 86 with the AE 86 lap time > being 1.20 secs to 1.14 secs. The so called handling advantage of the MR-2 > is (sadly and I'm sorry to say it Harry P) fiction. The 18RG or 2tG was never > available in Aust. but so many were imported as engines in the 80's that > I bet half the running TA22's and TA23's have them! Both engines can exceed > 200BHP and both dont have trouble using Mobil 1! > Bruce Hmmm, I think I'd have to disagree ... surely the driver would play a big part in the whole thing. I know of drivers who will take someones car out and, without much practise, will cut 4 seconds off the owners times ... usually right after the owner says the car can't go any faster. It all comes down to the nut behind the wheel : ) Ade xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Aug 96 02:48:00 PDT From: John D Garza To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 20R Woes ;-( Hello, This is my first posting. I have a '76 Celica. I've done a little bit of work to the engine; .030 pistons rods polished and shot peened(sp?) balanced offy intake weber 32/36 DGAV pace setter header 5 speed tranny My question and problem is the cam. I've tried 3 different cams in this car and eventually they all munched! At first I went with a Crane 280. The lift was so high that my cam followers were beating up the oil baffle under the valve cover. I found that a 22R baffle actually allows more travel for the followers. This worked as long as I didn't tweak on the valve cover bolts. This cam lasted about 6K and then a lobe went bad. So I tried a Competition Cams 270. I no longer had problems with the valve cover,but this one only lasted about 3K. I then tried another Competition Cams 260. This one lasted about the same. Each time with every cam I bought new followers and used lots and lots of cam lube when I broke the cam in. With each one the break in seemed to go well. I just don't understand why they're not lasting. Currently I have a stock TRW cam in it. It's been in there for about 20K and I just adjusted the valves and the lobes are looking great (smooth and shiny). Any suggestions out there? I've spent a little bit of coin on this engine and having experienced what a cam can do for performance... Well, I want it back!!! Help please. Thanks for any replies. -John xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 20:39:59 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: 55mm Webers, and English 4AGE's. Hiya all, I've finally got around to digging up the address for Richard Macer. It's - RM Sport 24 Green Lane, Letchworth, Hertfordshire SG6 1EB Ph/fax (in UK) 0462 481 660 On the subject of big Webers, I was reading a local Aus magazine today and I noticed an add for 55mm Webers. I seem to remember that someone wanted to get a pair, so if you phone Hardiman Auto Supplies, Australia on - 61-2-9771 5877, then they should be able to help you. Regards, The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 21:08:04 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: AE-86 day at PI! >I have an Idea, what about a battle of the 4AG's in Australia? >The place Philip Island in November (a full noise day of the Group 5 round) >Competitors...Perhaps Harry in the MR2, Bill and myself in my AE86 and I will >invite another few AE86's. Who can offer us an AE82 or AE 92? I'll offer a >$100 to the fastest lap time what do you think guys? >Bruce > Yeah, yeah, I'm there! (But can I use my car with the new engine in it?) The B Man. P.S. Don't worry about the $$$ - It's for FUN!! :) ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Loh To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'" Subject: RE: turbo timer Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 21:59:33 +0800 Hi Harry I use the HKS turbo timer and I think it's great. Besides being a turbo = timer, it's got an engine-hours meter function. This counts the number = of hours your engine has run since you installed the turbo timer or the = last time you disconnected the battery. You can reset the hour meter to = zero manually. It's also got a handbrake safety feature which shuts the = timer down immediately if your handbrake is released. If you like = beepity-beep noises (defeatable), it makes those too. Installation is = straightforward. I've never tried the Greddy timer but I hear good things about it. To bo = honest, I don't think you can go far wrong with timers as long as you = buy a quality unit. Leonard Loh ---------- From: Harry Wang[SMTP:hwang@orthanc.nchip.COM] Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 1996 1:07 AM To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com; = toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: turbo timer Now that i got my MKIIT i'm looking at some Turbo Timers. I've = mostly=20 seen people use the Greddy and HKS. Does anyone have any bad=20 experiences with either or both? Or are they both good units? = Thanks=20 for any reply. =20 hwang@nchip.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Aug 1996 17:24:03 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: MR2 schematics Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I contacted kashima@keisei.tsukuba.ac.jp and downloaded the MR2 schematics. I have Protel so I was able to read and print them. But have no idea as of what they represent. I have asked kashima by e-mail to e-mail me back any info that could help. If anybody has more info please contact me. Thks Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Loh To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'" Subject: RE: Manuals? Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 23:47:21 +0800 Phil Pardon me for butting in. I've tried to buy a workshop manual from my = local dealer but they refuse to sell it. Are you guys in NZ able to buy = shop manuals for your Toyotas? If so, could one of you get one for a '92 = Celica GT4 CSLE (ST185R) for me? I'm only too happy to send a check. Also, have any of you ever heard of a speedshop called Street Life World = Rallying in Auckland? Thanks. =20 Regards Leonard Loh Toyota Celica GT4 Carlos Sainz Limited Edition Singapore ---------- From: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com on behalf of Phil Bradshaw Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 1996 4:49 AM To: richard@cyberspace.cyberauto.com; = toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Manuals? Richard, I would be tempted to try to use the standard Toyota manuals (about = $100-120 NZ each) as much of the info is the same for the imports - but obviously = not all. Go and snivel at your friendly Toyota dealer for a look at their = stuff and see if it is worth it. I buy all my manuals etc from either from = Toyota direct or Technical Books in Wellington or Auckland, or Vital Books in Auckland. Sorry I don't have addresses but telecom directories (Dial = 018) will provide. Check for pricing - Tech books etc discount 10% for car = club members, but not generally on manuals. Hope this is of help Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve - Best fun you can have with your pants on. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 7 Aug 96 11:44:54 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Curious & Comments I have an Idea, what about a battle of the 4AG's in Australia? The place Philip Island in November (a full noise day of the Group 5 round) Competitors...Perhaps Harry in the MR2, Bill and myself in my AE86 and I will invite another few AE86's. Who can offer us an AE82 or AE 92? I'll offer a $100 to the fastest lap time what do you think guys? Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 09:55:27 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: John D Garza Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R Woes ;-( Wow, that's a pretty impressive amount of work to that engine! About your question about the cams, could it be that you're not using the recommended valve springs? Another curious question (since I have a '81 Celica with the 22R) is how much did the offy intake and cam increase power of your engine? Later, Dave On Wed, 7 Aug 1996, John D Garza wrote: > Hello, > This is my first posting. I have a '76 Celica. I've done a little > bit of work to the engine; > .030 pistons > rods polished and shot peened(sp?) > balanced > offy intake > weber 32/36 DGAV > pace setter header > 5 speed tranny > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: mr2-digest , From: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus Date: 7 Aug 96 15:33:31 EDT Subject: Re: MR2 vs. Eclipse This one's easy. The MR2 Turbo is a much faster autocrosser and roadracer. I wouldn't run against an Eclipse in a high speed rally event--they do well in some rally classes. Drag racing? Who cares. 0-60 and 1/4 mile times are very poor predictors of the over-all performance of a car. The MR2 Turbo is classified in A/Stock by the SCCA in Solo, or autocross, and it's competitive in this class. Last year an MR2 Turbo won A/S at the SCCA Solo Nationals. The Eclilpse is a B/Stock car (B is a "slower" class than A), and isn't competitive in this class against the Porsche 944S or Turbo, or the second gen Mazda RX-7 Turbo. But this is assuming an equal level of driving skill. I ran my supercharged MR2 against an Eclipse in autocross a number of times. We had just about equal high-performance/race driving education and experience. Both our cars were entirely stock, just as driven off the showroom floor. I beat him every time. Typically, I'd be about 3 seconds faster than him on a 100 second course. But then, the MR2 SC is also an A/Stock car, though not competitive in this class as is the MR2 Turbo. As long as you can drive properly, I wouldn't worry about being beaten. - S hwang @ orthanc.nchip.COM ("Harry Wang") 08/06/96 07:19 PM To: mr2-digest @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET, toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ INTERNET cc: (bcc: Steven Jackson/CAM/Lotus) Subject: MR2 vs. Eclipse Sorry to start another comparison war but i just wanted to know what you guys feel about this comparison since i just got an MKIITurbo and my roommate just bought a '96 Eclipse GSX. Out the box, which one is faster? From what i've read and seen, it seems these two cars are very close as far as 0-60 and 1/4-mile times. Does anyone know the exact figures? I just want to make sure i don't get beat by my roommate in his Eclipse. I'm sure i won't so he isn't serious about mods and performance. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 18:18:58 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: greencg@gate.net Subject: I have finally done it... Well, I have finally gotten off of my butt and removed all of the " excess " plumbing from the rear trunk of my Mr2, i have left the filter in the stock location for now, but All of the plastic ducting is now gone from the right side , across the car to the filter housing. I just let it suck into the rear trunk, and I will be carefull about leaving cd's in there till i get the K&N filter setup from select sales, and relocate the whole mess up under the engine lid.....The seat o the pants o meter doesn't register any change, but it sure sounds neat!!!!!!! I talked to the guy at select sales for about an hour, and that guy Is SICK!!!! he is running a seriously modified Mr2 Na...I have about convinced him to get on the net just to read this list...He seems very excited about being able to talk to a bunch of like minded people... HKS header? anyone had Good/Bad experiences with this fitment???? anyone tried a Supertrapp just past the flex Pipe???? Comments, suggestions ....Please.... My car sounds like A Hoover Upright!!!!! Chris Green Greencg@gate.net 87 Mister 2 n/a Black "Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve neither" Benjamin Franklin. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 17:57:32 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Scott Davis I was wondering if someone could tell me what different names the corolla was given over the years, and with what different equiptment/packages each had... For instance, here in the US we have the regular corolla, from the late 60's to the present, with no change in the basic corolla name. However, we had the Deluxe model until 1980, the SR-5 designation (which included the my 1980 TE72 and the RWD AE86's 1984-1987), GT, GT-S and some late 80's (88+) through the present designations (which I don't know cause I never had the funds to even consider buying one). I have noticed a few very interesting names flying around from around the world, including Levin, Levin sprinter (which I believe is the AE86, or GT-S here in the states) and some others that I did not catch... Would someone care to inform me what designations were diven to what models? Just out of nagging curiosity.... Scott xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Aug 96 15:00:49 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2 Turbo vs. Eclipse GSX vs. 300ZX N/A Yes i know this is another comparison but ya see my other roommate has a 1991 300ZX N/A and i'm just wondering how he compares. The Z seems to have quite a bit of low end torque. Of course if his Z was a twin turbo it would be a different story. Does anyone know the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times for a 300ZX N/A? This is considering all our cars are stock and equal drivers (even though i think i'm a better driver than both of them). Well thank you in advance to anyone for their input. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Aug 1996 16:20:19 -0700 From: Val MacDonald To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: philip.bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4-AG series Phil Bradshaw wrote: > Hi Phil > > To the best of my knowledge the 20 valve seems to be known as the "Twin Cam > 20" in the sales brochures (I have a 1995 Japanese brochure) and mine (ex > '91 Trueno) has -20 as prefix on the engine bar code, whilst Corollas have > -10 prefix (I have no idea what the difference is!) > Are you not confusing 4AG2E with 4AGZE? It is believed there is a current > generation supercharged 16V (?) motor that is listed on the CD roms as 4AGZE > but no-one knows for sure. There have always been rumours of turbo 20 valves > too... wouldn't that be nice! > If you have a 91 Sprinter Trueno 1600 GT or GTR you will find that engine to be a 4-AG2E not a 4-AGE (2 - 20 valve). No confusion between AGZE and AG2E !!! Chassis No. E-AE101 Trueno appears to have 4-AG2E, while E-AE101 Sprinter Sedan has 4A-FE, E-AE101 Levin GT Apex Super 4-AGE. Thats a start.... Also tell me more about your fibreglass car - sounds intersting! I'll report on this project later... > > Phil Bradshaw > Palmerston North > Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve -- On road: 88 Celica GT4 (3S-GTE) On road: 88 MR2 Supercharged (4AGZE) Project: 84 Fibreglass Celica (3T-GTE) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 19:49:04 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: Stock AFM & 550 cc injectors For today, I yanked the Lexus AFM out and put the stock one back in, so that I could do the new AFM screw swap on the Lexus AFM. Anyway, driving around with the stock AFM and the 550 cc injectors the car should be running pretty rich, and does seem to be. According to the VF meter, while cruising around town I vary between half-lean and half-rich, more on half-rich than the others. However, when idling or accelerating slowly to moderately it still stays on full lean, interestingly enough. Accelerating moderately to hard it jumps to full rich pretty easily. If I steadily push the pedal down, I can feel the power drop as the richness goes from ideal to half-rich to fully-rich. It definitely feels softer when it goes to fully rich. Just for the sake of argument, I set my boost pressure at .50 bar (7.4 PSI) and floored it, and when the boost got above about 4 PSI the engine stuttered and huge black clouds came out of the exhaust, visible in broad daylight. The engine almost stalled. I was probably running about 9.6:1 air/fuel. Probably just about filled the cylinders with fuel. Well, tomorrow I should have the Lexus AFM back on with the new screw in. More info later. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 07 Aug 96 15:52:25 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: clear parking lights Does anyone know if they make clear parking lights for the MKII like the ones for Honda's. I'm talking about the long amber turn signal and the small amber parking light. Could they be made? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "Harry Wang" Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re: MR2 Turbo vs. Eclipse GSX vs. 300ZX N/A Date: Thu, 08 Aug 96 10:50:05 +1000 From: Peter Mejak Yes i know this is another comparison but ya see my other roommate has a 1991 300ZX N/A and i'm just wondering how he compares. The Z seems to have quite a bit of low end torque. Of course if his Z was a twin turbo it would be a different story. Does anyone know the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times for a 300ZX N/A? This is considering all our cars are stock and equal drivers (even though i think i'm a better driver than both of them). Well thank you in advance to anyone for their input. Harry, Instead of theorising forever, why not just take the cars down to a track & get some real-world data? Should put an end to all arguments. Cheers, Peter. ====================================================== Peter Mejak, HP Response Centre, Melbourne, Australia peterm@aus.hp.com ====================================================== xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 22:41:46 -0400 (EDT) To: greencg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: Re: I have finally done it... At 05:24 PM 1/5/80 -0500, you wrote: >I talked to the guy at select sales for about an hour, and that guy Is SICK!!!! >he is running a seriously modified Mr2 Na...I have about convinced him to >get on the net just to read this list...He seems very excited about being >able to talk to a bunch of like minded people... Sounds like Steve, eh? >HKS header? anyone had Good/Bad experiences with this fitment???? I have a TRD header. I loved it, then hated it, and now I love it again. I loved it first cuz I Jethot coated it and the rusty POS looked nice. Then I hated it because it caused me to manufacture about five more exhausts before I hit a good one. Then I loved it again when I put in the cams and stuff and the car ran great. >anyone tried a Supertrapp just past the flex Pipe???? If you retain the stock manifold, it sounds GREAT, but is really loud. If you put on a header and try a Supertrapp, you better hope you're good friends with the local Troopers. I ran a 2.5" 'Trapp with a TRD header for lil' while. It set off every car alarm I drove past, and was a proven baby-waker. My neighborhood popularity was not to good then. I now use a TRD header and a 2.25" Dynomax Turbo with good results. Good luck, Bruce and Martha Crawford...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net '79 RX7 GS (ITA) '83 RX7 GSL (w/EFI 13B) '89 MR2 (Modded) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 08 Aug 96 08:59:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Manuals? To: Toyota Mods > Pardon me for butting in. I've tried to buy a workshop manual from my = > local dealer but they refuse to sell it. Are you guys in NZ able to buy = > shop manuals for your Toyotas? If so, could one of you get one for a '92 = > Celica GT4 CSLE (ST185R) for me? I'm only too happy to send a check. hmmm, if it was sold new in NZ you should be able to get it > Also, have any of you ever heard of a speedshop called Street Life World = > Rallying in Auckland? yeppers .. it's for street racers .. not full on race cars though. Caters to people with LOTS of money! Ade xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 02:33:26 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Collins To: Scott Davis Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Corolla Designations (was: ) On Wed, 7 Aug 1996, Scott Davis wrote: > I was wondering if someone could tell me what different names the corolla > was given over the years, and with what different equiptment/packages each > had... For instance, here in the US we have the regular corolla, from the > late 60's to the present, with no change in the basic corolla name. > However, we had the Deluxe model until 1980, the SR-5 designation (which > included the my 1980 TE72 and the RWD AE86's 1984-1987), GT, GT-S and some > late 80's (88+) through the present designations (which I don't know cause I > never had the funds to even consider buying one). > I have noticed a few very interesting names flying around from > around the world, including Levin, Levin sprinter (which I believe is the > AE86, or GT-S here in the states) and some others that I did not catch... > Would someone care to inform me what designations were diven to what models? > Just out of nagging curiosity.... > > Scott > i can help you some here, in Japan there are sprinters and corollas, they are basically the same car. The GT-S as they are known here are called either Corolla Levin ( has the non-flipup head lights ) or the Sprinter Trueno ( the ones with the flipup headlights ), in Japan most people call them hachi-rokus, after the chassis designations AE86, these were made from 84 or 5 to about 87 i believe, the newer FWD ones are the AE92 series same basic designations. there was also a model of AE92 w/ a GT-Z added on the end, these were the supercharged corollas. both the ae86's and the ae92's came with 4ag's. i guess I'll let Bill S. or Bruce C. pick up from here. James Collins collinsj@bird.library.arizona.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 07:19:57 -0400 To: greencg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: I have finally done it... In a message dated 96-08-08 01:52:12 EDT, you write: << Well, I have finally gotten off of my butt and removed all of the " excess " plumbing from the rear trunk of my Mr2,... till i get the K&N filter setup from select sales, and relocate the whole mess up under the engine lid.....The seat o the pants o meter doesn't register any change, but it sure sounds neat!!!!!!! << I hope you got the 5 inch filter from Select... the 7 inch one will be a trick to install. I installed the 5" and it works perfectly, Bruce installed the 7" and, well, he can tell you how he fit it in. FWIW, I love the setup. >>I talked to the guy at select sales for about an hour, and that guy Is SICK!!!!<< he is running a seriously modified Mr2 Na...I have about convinced him to >> Yeah, Steve is a riot! Just get him going and hang on!!! :-) Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 07:58:32 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Corolla names Scott, I had always heard refer to the RWD GTS years as you have listed ('84-'87) but I once had Lou Fusz Toyota look it up. They say that the RWD GTS was '85-'87 (4 wheel disc brakes). The '84 was actually designated SR5 (not GTS) and had drum brakes in back. So I'm told. Monte >However, we had the Deluxe model until 1980, the SR-5 designation (which >included the my 1980 TE72 and the RWD AE86's 1984-1987), GT, GT-S and (snip, snip) > >Scott > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 10:21:38 -0400 (EDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bruce Crawford Subject: Intake revision thing At 07:19 AM 8/8/96 -0400, you wrote: >I hope you got the 5 inch filter from Select... the 7 inch one will be a >trick to install. I installed the 5" and it works perfectly, Bruce installed >the 7" and, well, he can tell you how he fit it in. FWIW, I love the setup. Thanks for reminding me. The 7" will fit, but you hafta really want that conical filter to do it. Sure the 7" potentially can flow more air, but I am skeptical as to whether it is worth it for a street driven 4AGE. It'd be much much easier to fit the 5". Good luck, Bruce and Martha Crawford...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net '79 RX7 GS (ITA) '83 RX7 GSL (w/EFI 13B) '89 MR2 (Modded) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 09:32:38 -0700 (PDT) From: An-Hong Chien To: Bruce Crawford Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intake revision thing hey there....just wondering if you noticed any significant power change with this cone. i have a drop-in k&n filter and don't see any changes. thanks dave On Thu, 8 Aug 1996, Bruce Crawford wrote: > At 07:19 AM 8/8/96 -0400, you wrote: > > >I hope you got the 5 inch filter from Select... the 7 inch one will be a > >trick to install. I installed the 5" and it works perfectly, Bruce installed > >the 7" and, well, he can tell you how he fit it in. FWIW, I love the setup. > > Thanks for reminding me. The 7" will fit, but you hafta really want that > conical filter to do it. Sure the 7" potentially can flow more air, but I am > skeptical as to whether it is worth it for a street driven 4AGE. It'd be > much much easier to fit the 5". > > Good luck, > > Bruce and Martha Crawford...........crawford@planet.earthcom.net > '79 RX7 GS (ITA) '83 RX7 GSL (w/EFI 13B) '89 MR2 (Modded) > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: nos@juno.com To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 11:40:42 PST Subject: Replacement Headlight bulb for MK1 MR2 My headlight burned out couple of days ago, and I was wondering if there are any other manufacturers (like Hella & PIAA) that makes "brighter" headlights for MK1 MR2 that has good life compared to the ones that toyota sells. I already have PIAA 959, so I don't need any auxilary lights. Any ideas? I called up the dealer and told me that all I need to replace is the bulb and not the whole housing. TIA yoshi nos@juno.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 08:22:37 +1200 To: Val MacDonald , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: Fibre-Glass Celica Bloody Hell Val! I only hope one day to aspire to having the ability to undertake this sort of project, leyt alone crank it out in 9 months! >front wheel & brake system is MK4 Cortina. I believe Mazda 323 ventillated discs will fit the cortina hubs with very little work, and wilwood calipers can fit with an adapter plate. I have a friend running this set up on a Fraser, and he also has alloy hubs and has ground away a lot of the surplus material on the uprighs to get the unsprung weight down. I run standard cortina front hubs on my Leitch, but looked at using the ventilated ones from Aussie 6 cyl cortinas - very heavy and the upper and lower ball joints are further apart. > The body: > I made a plaster cast of my sons Celica, then formed a set of >glass panels out of the plaster. I have just began make a set of glass >moulds so when ether I or mum stuff it I can replace them dud ones. >I hope to have the car up and running by the end of October. Once I >get the handling right, I'll look at getting a bit more mules out of it. I can't even imagine the effort to do this! How in hell do you take a cast of a complete car...? >This is number one car, when this one is running correctly, the next >task is to build another one. I have sponsors waiting for me... Good luck - sounds really good! Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 15:40:36 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Scott Davis Subject: 3T-GTE head/block I was wondering where I could get a 3T-GTE (8 plug, 16 valve) head... Also, what additions to put it on a 13T block. Would it just be better to buy a 3T-GTE? What is the current going price (US) and who would I talk to? Gee, does anyone have one sitting around that they don't want?!? (yeah, right!!!) tks... xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 08 Aug 96 13:02:33 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: weight reduction for MKIITurbo From what i understand the MKII weighs somewhere around 2888 lbs. (correct me if i'm wrong). This seems pretty heavy for a car that's so small. What makes the car so heavy? I mean there isn't a back seat to tear out so what are some of the things that can be done to shave some weight of my MKIIT? It's not a full race car so i'm just curious about some of the practical possibilities. Thanks. Harry C. Wang hwang@nchip.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 10:07:54 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Corolla names. Hiya. The AE 86 RWD shell was sold in NZ (as used imports) as either a Levin (in sprinter 1500cc or GT-V 4AGE) from 83-86 maybe 87. I had an 83 GT-V that I bought as a wreck. 4 wheel discs, vented on front. Same vintage Truenos are available, pop up lights only difference. Both available as 2 door liftback or coupe (kinda 2 door sedan). Then there was the FWD Levin/Trueno, which had superchaged 4AGE as an option from 87?-90?. This was folowed in 91 with the AE101 shell, with corollas (3/4/5 door) with 20 valve option, and Levin/Trueno 2 door coupe (radically different body shell, kinda like similar vintage prelude) running 20 valves as option as well. Best I can figure, this was replaced in may 95 with AE111, but same models available. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Leitch Supersprint 20 valve. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: 3T-GTE head/block To: ssdavis1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Scott Davis) Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 01:16:20 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > I was wondering where I could get a 3T-GTE (8 plug, 16 valve) head... Also, > what additions to put it on a 13T block. > Would it just be better to buy a 3T-GTE? What is the current going > price (US) and who would I talk to? Gee, does anyone have one sitting > around that they don't want?!? (yeah, right!!!) Well, if you find one sell it to me ;) Seriously, there are *NO* 16 valve 3T-GTEU heads!!! Even the Group B and LeMans verions had only 8 valves, so I don't think there are even prototypes with 16 valves. The Finnish prices are around $2000-$3000 for a stock engine, depending on how complete it is (some are sold without a turbo). I'd recommend getting the whole engine, as the bottom end is different and stonger. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 10:51:31 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: DIY clear parking lights Harry Wang asked: > Does anyone know if they make clear parking lights for the MKII like > the ones for Honda's. I'm talking about the long amber turn signal > and the small amber parking light. Could they be made? Stand by for more DIY hypothesising! Yep, they could be made - depends on the effort you want to put in. If you do this, there is no reason you couldn't make a few and sell them. I reckon (not having seen the units) you could vacuum form the covers out of thermoplastic sheet. You could easily get the shape right, but would have to build spacers to mount the lens covers as they would only be 1 or 2 mm thick.(even though they would have the full shape - imagine covering the lens in thick cling film that retained its shape when you pulled it off - all the shape but no thickness) Basically you would have to track down a local vacuum former and see if they would let you make the moulds up for use on their machine. We have a trial unit here at uni - it is really easy to make moulds - wood, plaster, resin and body filler are all you need for short run moulds! I guess you jusy cover your lenses in cling film (to protect them), and take a cast of them, using say epoxy in a wooden frame. You then drill holes for the vacuum to suck the air out and pull the sheet into the moulds. A little bit of thought and a few hours (to mount the moulds and plum vacuum lines etc) and you could make one mould that has all four lenses on it, and away you go into production.(Obviously there is a bit more to it, but not a lot!) Honestly, for what you want, vacuum forming is a really low tech process that could produce really good results. The only thing will be selecting the right plastic to handle exposue to sun, weather etc, resist stone impact, and handle the bulb heat - none of which is insurmountable. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ Wannabe plastics engineer! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 17:41:44 -0600 (MDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Mark Hoverson For Sale One Owner, non smoker '81 Corolla SR-5 Excellent condition White with blue interior 90,000 miles, Around 30,000 on the 2TG Never been hit No rust or dents, it does have some rock chips on the front of the hood. Alpine stereo AM/FM cassette with separate equalizer/power amp. 2TG engine- Bored to 1750, dual 44PPH Mukinis, K&N airfilters, Electric fuel pump, TRD Distributor, TRD plug wires, TRD Street/Track cams- Intake 304 duration 10mm lift - Exhaust 288 dur 9.6mm lift Cams have only been in the engine for about 10,000 miles Intake and header have been port matched to the head Toy Store header and exhaust TRD High volume oil pump Limited-slip diff with 4.30 gears KYB gas shocks in the rear, KYB rally shocks in the front TRD Rally springs front and rear Carol Shelby Wheels Yokohama A509 Tires in good shape Shadow rear windows shade Sheep skin seat covers Interior in excellent condition, dash does have three cracks. It has been in a garage or under a cover all of the time I've owned it. I have the 2TG engine manual, corolla shop manual, the stock cams, and various other parts to go along with it. $3000.00 obo Contact Mark Hoverson at markh@rt66.com (505) 662-1493 After 5:00pm mst Car is located in Los Alamos, NM. |----------------------------------------------------------| | This space left blank by accident | | | |----------------------------------------------------------| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Shiro20@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 19:42:10 -0400 To: hwang@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Boost How can you adjust boost on a stock mk II turbo without buying a boost controller? thanks Richard Rainaldo 92 MKII turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 19:52:05 -0400 To: toyota@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Chris Hilliard Subject: Re: Unidentified subject! At 05:57 PM 8/7/96 -0500, Scott Davis wrote: >I was wondering if someone could tell me what different names the corolla >was given over the years, and with what different equiptment/packages each Hey Scott, There is my TE-51 which is a '77 model. It is a liftback and there is also the TE-50 which is a coupe. These cars are not your average run of the mill corolla and were only made 2 years even thought the regular TE-3's were still being made. They are also referred to as the Corolla 1600. They are based on the same mechanicals but in a different package. The body is bigger and a totally different looking car. It was only availible in liftback and coupe 2 door models. Most people don't know what my car is. They are used to the normal little cars. If you have a Haynes manual for Corollas thru '78 they have a picture of the liftback (like mine). I don't have production totals on these cars but they are fairly rare. This is what pulled me into buying the car because it looks like nothing else out there. The front end looks like a Cobra and the cockpit is much more streamlined. The car also sits closer to the ground too. They came only with the 2T-C and were available in standard transmission only. The Deluxe (like mine) comes with the T-40 and the SR-5 gets the T-50. The rear end is also beefier than a standard corolla and has put up with my abuse with total grace. I'll be glad to share more particulars if anyone is interested through the group or e-mail. Chris H. "The Infamous Tojo" xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 19:54:28 -0500 (CDT) To: Matti Kalalahti , From: Scott Davis Subject: Intake plenums and Re: 3T-GTE head >> I was wondering where I could get a 3T-GTE (8 plug, 16 valve) head... Also, >> what additions to put it on a 13T block. >> Would it just be better to buy a 3T-GTE? What is the current going >> price (US) and who would I talk to? Gee, does anyone have one sitting >> around that they don't want?!? (yeah, right!!!) > >Well, if you find one sell it to me ;) >Seriously, there are *NO* 16 valve 3T-GTEU heads!!! >Even the Group B and LeMans verions had only 8 valves, so I don't think >there are even prototypes with 16 valves. The Finnish prices >are around $2000-$3000 for a stock engine, depending on how complete it >is (some are sold without a turbo). I'd recommend getting the whole >engine, as the bottom end is different and stonger. > Hmmm... OK, blond-hair-induced memory lapse strikes again. I could have sworn that I had heard of a 1800cc engine with 16 valves. (damnit, must have been dreaming again...) OK, how about a different track. What are the differences in mounting locations for the 4A? Can I just get a 4A from a AE86 along with the bellhousing and pop it onto my '80 T-50 and engine mounts? For anyone who has made their own intake plenums, (or just knows quite a bit about it) I was wondering about the torque vs HP debate over plenum length, shape and curvature. I also think I remember hearing about a Ford (?) design with a dual plenum setup, with a longer plenum giving more torque at low rpm's and a short runner providing for better flow at high RPM's. Does this work well enough to consider it? Any other innovative designs or basic constraints out there to know about? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: "Matti Kalalahti" , Cc: Subject: Re: 3T-GTE head/block Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 12:00:07 +1000 Speaking of 16 valve heads, i recently discovered that Toyota did make a 16 valve head for the 18R block for their Group B rally cars in the mid to late 70's. Has anyone ever seen one, know where one is lying around or know how to get hold of one ? Having one of these in my engine bay would make me a very happy man. Cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: Matti Kalalahti > To: Scott Davis > Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: Re: 3T-GTE head/block > Date: Friday, August 09, 1996 8:16 > > > I was wondering where I could get a 3T-GTE (8 plug, 16 valve) head... Also, > > what additions to put it on a 13T block. > > Would it just be better to buy a 3T-GTE? What is the current going > > price (US) and who would I talk to? Gee, does anyone have one sitting > > around that they don't want?!? (yeah, right!!!) > > Well, if you find one sell it to me ;) > Seriously, there are *NO* 16 valve 3T-GTEU heads!!! > Even the Group B and LeMans verions had only 8 valves, so I don't think > there are even prototypes with 16 valves. The Finnish prices > are around $2000-$3000 for a stock engine, depending on how complete it > is (some are sold without a turbo). I'd recommend getting the whole > engine, as the bottom end is different and stonger. > > -- > Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 > k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... > A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 22:01:17 -0400 (EDT) To: Shiro20@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Christopher Subject: Re: Boost Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com At 07:42 PM 8/8/96 -0400, you wrote: >How can you adjust boost on a stock mk II turbo without buying a boost >controller? Put a small hole in the wastegate actuator line so that it bleeds off some of the pressure. Then the wastegate will not open as soon, effectively raising the amount of generated boost. You could do it by adding a piece of metal pipe (1/8" or 1/4" maybe) in the middle of the line and drilling a small hole in it. There's at least one person on the MR2 Digest that uses this method. (I'm not one of them.) Boost cut is around 11psi or 12psi, I think, so you'll want to stay under that. If you disable or raise the boost cut level (HKS Fuel Cut Defenser or similar method), you can go to about 15psi or so...maybe 15.5psi. To go past that, you'll need to modify the fuel map or otherwise modify the fuel system (like with an HKS Vein Pressure Converter). If you decide to raise the boost past the stock boost cut level, BUY A BOOST GAUGE! The stock boost gauge is practically useless. Too much boost = blown engine. Chris Long 93 MR2 Turbo MrChris@southeast.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 19:37:11 -0700 (PDT) From: QUI HONG To: nos@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Replacement Headlight bulb for MK1 MR2 One of my head light went out the other day too. I went a auto parts store and bought two new 55/65 watts instead of 35/65 watts which is standard. I had to replace the whole housing. They didn't sell just the bulb. The price was a little more. I think $21 compared to $17 or so. But I haven't driven it at night yet, so I don't know how much brighter it is. BTW, no one answer my question. Does the Mk1 SC have clear front signal lights? And where can I get some? Qui Hong quihong@sfsu.edu > My headlight burned out couple of days ago, and I was wondering if there > are any other manufacturers (like Hella & PIAA) that makes "brighter" > headlights for MK1 MR2 that has good life compared to the ones that > toyota sells. I already have PIAA 959, so I don't need any auxilary > lights. Any ideas? I called up the dealer and told me that all I need > to replace is the bulb and not the whole housing. > > TIA > yoshi > nos@juno.com > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 22:44:19 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: celicag@mailhost.magicnet.net (Chris W. Morgan) Subject: Final Word Hello Group!, It's time to give the final rundown on the Sunchaser rebuild.All parts were purchased through Mr Myer at Cyberspace Automotive Performance,a first class operation in my book.Chris,Thanks a HEAP Dude! Parts 1.Master rebuild kit a.Sealed Power rings b.Sealed Power oil pump c.Sealed Power timing chain set (sprockets,chain,tensioner,guides) d.Sealed Power gasket set e.Federal Mogul crank & rod bearings f.brass freeze plugs 2.Sealed Power outer valve springs 3.Iskendarian inner valve springs 4.Crane cam 272/282 5.Centerforce 1 clutch & pressure plate 6.Weber Synchronous Dual 38 downdraft carb 7.Doug Thorley Tri-Y chrome header 8.Flowmaster 2.25 muffler 9.Beck Arnley pilot bearing 10.Felpro front&rear crank repair sleeve 11.American Bearing throw-out bearing 12.Custom made adjustable cam gear Machine Work (done by myself) 1.hone block 2.deck block (just enough to clean it up) 3.3 angle valve job 4.ported and polished head 5.port matched intake and header 6.lightened flywheel by 5 lbs The car has been together for a few weeks now but I havent had alot of time to dial the car in due to my work schedule.Initial impressions are that I'm quite happy with the performance so far and I'm sure that there is more HP to squeeze out by playing around with that cam gear.I'm going to get some photos taken and send to Chris so he can scan them onto the TM website. My ultimate goal is to have an article done in Sports Car Compact so I can suprise my father who originally bought the car.A few more things to do and it will perfect.Definitely worthy,just ask Chris or take a look for yourself.If anyone is interested in discussing any aspect of this project I'll be glad to help in any way I can.Till next time! P.S.All the talk on this list about MR2,MKI,MKII,SC,Turbo and soforth made me stop and take a look at a used 87 the other day with the 4ag in it,never paid much attention to them before now.Sat in it,took it for a ride,started to get a little claustrophobic in it but I figure if I can tweak it to go fast enuff the adrenalin(sp?) will counteract the other.So I've decided to play with one of these awhile. What I need from the list is a short note on your preference of the best allround MKI,(yr,eng,acc) and why,also for the MKII.Your help would be appreciated! Chris W Morgan 1979 Celica Sunchaser 1982 Celica GT Coupe 1984 Celica GT Hatchback 1985 Celica GTS Convertable 1995 Suzuki GSXR 750 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 20:09:38 -0700 From: Val MacDonald To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: philip.bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Fibre-Glass Celica Hi Phil, Re: Fibre-Glass Celica. I started building this project about 6 months ago, chassis is 38mm box section, all internal panel work is alluminium, suspension front and rear is from a Morris Marina Torsion bar to keep the weight distribution low, front wheel & brake system is MK4 Cortina. 81 corona rear end, 5 speed corona box and 3T-GTE engine (which seams to be the heaviest item). The body: I made a plaster cast of my sons Celica, then formed a set of glass panels out of the plaster. I have just began make a set of glass moulds so when ether I or mum stuff it I can replace them dud ones. I hope to have the car up and running by the end of October. Once I get the handling right, I'll look at getting a bit more mules out of it. This is number one car, when this one is running correctly, the next task is to build another one. I have sponsors waiting for me... Regards Val. -- On road: 88 Celica GT4 (3S-GTE) On road: 88 MR2 Supercharged (4AGZE) Project: 84 Fibreglass Celica (3T-GTE) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 20:10:16 -0700 From: Val MacDonald To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wiring 3T-GTE Hi all, I require a wiring diagram for computer and Knock computer for a 3T-GTE, TA63 Celica. I have nutted most of it out, but stuck on a few items. If anyone in the group can be of any assistance with a wiring drawing, It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all. Val -- On road: 88 Celica GT4 (3S-GTE) On road: 88 MR2 Supercharged (4AGZE) Project: 84 Fibreglass Celica (3T-GTE) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: rande@qni.com Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 22:32:17 -0500 Subject: Re: weight reduction for MKIITurbo To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Thu, 08 Aug 96, "Harry Wang" wrote: > From what i understand the MKII weighs somewhere around 2888 lbs. > (correct me if i'm wrong). This seems pretty heavy for a car that's > so small. What makes the car so heavy? I mean there isn't a back > seat to tear out so what are some of the things that can be done to > shave some weight of my MKIIT? It's not a full race car so i'm just > curious about some of the practical possibilities. Thanks. > > Harry C. Wang > hwang@nchip.com > I was at a Divisional event this last weekend and had them weigh my car. It weighed 2740 lbs. with ~1/3 tank of gas, t-tops out, all trunks empty, straight pipe in place of the muffler, and Hoosier (they're lighter than BFG's) autocross tires on stock rims. In 1994 I watched them weigh the top MR2's in (then) BS. The national champion weighed 2725 lbs. His car was a hardtop with no sunroof. Randy Eickhoff _/_/ _/_/ _/_/_/ _/_/ rande@qni.com _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ '91 MR2T 39k 24/64 AS _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/ _/ '85 MR2 126k _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Kansas City Region SCCA _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/ Crown Autocross Club of Kansas City Kansas Region SCCA If cars had evolved as fast as computers have, by now they'd cost a quarter, run for a year on a half-gallon of gas, and explode once a day. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 15:33:11 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 4AGE/3T-GTE OK, my two pennies worth: I was also under the impression the 3T-GTE was 16V, but have never eyed one in the flesh. Secondly - the 4AGE comes with the T-50 in the AE 86 model cars, so as long as you have the bellhousing (mine has '4A' cast at the top near the back of the head from (poor) memory) you should be OK. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 15:52:48 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: Replacement Headlight bulb for MK1 MR2 Just a quickie - can you people not get 100/90 or 130/90 bulbs? Provided you don't melt the wiring or fuses they have got to be the answer?! I run 100/90 and plan to go up to 130/90. You can run 100s on 10 amp fuses OK and 130s should just do it, but 15 amp will be better (just don't flash your lights...) Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 07:19:56 -0400 To: "Harry Wang" , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: weight reduction for MKIITurbo > From what i understand the MKII weighs somewhere around 2888 lbs. > (correct me if i'm wrong). This seems pretty heavy for a car that's > so small. What makes the car so heavy? I mean there isn't a back > seat to tear out so what are some of the things that can be done to > shave some weight of my MKIIT? It's not a full race car so i'm just > curious about some of the practical possibilities. Thanks. My interpretation of the weight problem with the MR2 is that there is so much unibody construction in the rear. In cutting up my Mk I parts car, I was very impressed by the amount of folds and welds where the door / quarter-panel / passenger-area / engine-bay-area meet. But that made the car ver strong, in my opinion. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 13:06:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: Fibre-Glass Celica To: Toyota Mods hi Val > I made a plaster cast of my sons Celica, then formed a set of > glass panels out of the plaster. I have just began make a set of glass > moulds so when ether I or mum stuff it I can replace them dud ones. > I hope to have the car up and running by the end of October. Once I > get the handling right, I'll look at getting a bit more mules out of it. i'll have to find out how you did this as i'll be needing some fibreglass panels for my MR2 race car. My boyfriend has worked with glass before .. so we sorta know what we're doing. > This is number one car, when this one is running correctly, the next > task is to build another one. I have sponsors waiting for me... > > Regards Val. BTW ... where do you live?? Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '84 MR2 - burnt out .... being built up as a race car '87 SC T-Top MR2 ... has been rolled ... is parts car for race car '9? Fraser 7 - lotus 7 replica kit being built AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: 3T-GTE head/block To: simpson@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:51:35 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > Speaking of 16 valve heads, i recently discovered that Toyota did make a 16 > valve head for the 18R block for their Group B rally cars in the mid to > late 70's. Has anyone ever seen one, know where one is lying around or know > how to get hold of one ? Having one of these in my engine bay would make > me a very happy man. It was actually used in Group 4 in 1982 just before the Group B Celica. I've seen one for sale here in Finland, asking price was $7000US... here are the specs: Engine type 18R-G 1998cc inline-4 DOHC Compression ratio 12.0:1 Power 240hp@9000rpm Carbs twin 48 DCOE's Valves 16 (!!!) You could have read this from my WWW pages... BTW, I added some pictures of my engine bay, including the exhaust manifold, comressor bypass valve installation and head under the valve cover. I made a few more test runs yesterday... trying to get a flatter boost curve, and was somewhat succesful at it too. Going further with the boost did give some gains for a while, until the knock control retarded the timing and I was left with the same power output as before :( Needs more fuel, as I started to lean out (not exactly lean, just around 0.96). Also, the tiny 45-trim compressor is maxing out. I had some trouble last week with the adapter as the bolts loosened enough to cause an exhaust leak before the turbo, and destroyed the metal gasket - only 1/3 was left wehn I disassembled it. Not fun finding that your turbo spools up 1000rpm later than normal... now it's back to normal with a new gasket, and this time lock rings for the nuts to prevent this from ever ever happening again. Well, while I still had a leak despite tightening the nuts, I made short test runs with the wastegate hose disconnected... 1.2bar max above 5000rpm, and as the mixture only leaned out to the same 0.96 lambda, I was not pushing any more air at all through the compressor, just heating it up more. The peak I was able to get was 246hp@5200rpm (over 240 between 4900 and 5800), but once I got on the third gear I saw power dropping in a couple of stages down. This is the effect of the ignition retard, and slightly also the leaner mixture. I will do some more tests and see if removing the front bumper increases the intercooler efficiency enough to prevent the need for ignition retard. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Loh To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'" Subject: RE: Manuals? Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 22:06:45 +0800 Phil >Do you have an address etc? I will be up in Auckland in a couple of weks >so I can scope it out, or get friends up there to. Yep, it's: 20A Barrys Point Road Takapuna Auckland 9 Tel: 64-9-486-8081 Fax: 64-9-486-7674 I'm after the English version of their catalog. I've got the Japanese version and I can't read a word of it. Leonard xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Scott, Dan" To: ToyMods Subject: RE:Celica "Wide-Body" + other question Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 07:13:00 PDT >Also, the manual lists a procedure for "bedding down" the rear brakes... I am >a little confused. It says that the GTS and ALL-TRAC models use a drum-within- >a-disc type rear brakes. hmmmmm.. Can somebody explain this? I am unfamiliar >with these types of brakes. Also, why does the owners manual tell you to >drive about 1/4 mile with the parking brake on? I'm confused. The drums they are talking about are for the parking brake. It uses shoes like any other drum type brake so I guess the 1/4 mile drive is to make sure that the shoes make full contact with the drums. Sorry I can't help with the rest. Dan Scott (Vancouver BC) Dscott@ea.com '88 Celica turbo 4WD ..... NZ here I come! land of hot volcanoes, cool people and fast 2 seaters.... :) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: phil bradshaw Cc: toyota-mods From: "john.limcangco" Date: 9 Aug 96 9:43:33 Subject: Re: Replacement Headlight bulb for MK1 MR2 A high ampere relay would be almost necessary for high wattage bulbs like that. And thicker gauge wires.... I placed two relays (one for low beam, one for high beam) in my headlight circuit when I upgraded to H3-type 130/90. Not only did I stop blowing fuses, it actually got 'brighter'.... I can flash my lights with no problem, and it did not introduce noise in the stereo.... Just make sure to put an in-line fuse along the wire leading from the battery, just in case. Electrical fires can be expensive. my .02 centavos John Limcangco Manila, Philippines 79 Cressida 18RG ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ To: toyota-mods @ cyberspace.cyberauto.com @ internet cc: (bcc: John Limcangco) From: Philip.Bradshaw.1 @ uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) @ internet Date: 08/09/96 03:52 PM Subject: Re: Replacement Headlight bulb for MK1 MR2 ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Just a quickie - can you people not get 100/90 or 130/90 bulbs? Provided you don't melt the wiring or fuses they have got to be the answer?! I run 100/90 and plan to go up to 130/90. You can run 100s on 10 amp fuses OK and 130s should just do it, but 15 amp will be better (just don't flash your lights...) Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 09:48:35 -0600 Subject: Re: Boost To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Thu, 8 Aug 1996, Christopher wrote: >At 07:42 PM 8/8/96 -0400, you wrote: >>How can you adjust boost on a stock mk II turbo without buying a boost >>controller? > >Put a small hole in the wastegate actuator line so that it bleeds off some >of the pressure. Then the wastegate will not open as soon, effectively >raising the amount of generated boost. You could do it by adding a piece of >metal pipe (1/8" or 1/4" maybe) in the middle of the line and drilling a >small hole in it. Go yo the local pet / Fish store and purchase one of the valves used for tank air lines. They are nice little screw needle valves that control the air to 'accessories' in the tank. I've seen it used on turbo chryslers a LOT and it works... and is adjustable... - Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Scott, Dan" To: ToyMods Subject: Re: Manuals etc. Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 10:26:00 PDT Phil, Leonard, I will be in both NZ and Singapore in September. If you need anything transported (in my pack so engines are out) I will be happy to do it for you. Also I have a couple more weeks here (Vancouver BC) before I go so if you need something picked up over here let me know. I'm looking forward to meeting our downunder modders soon, it should be a blast. Dan Scott '88 Celica turbo 4WD xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 9 Aug 96 13:29:39 -0400 (EDT) From: Joseph Horton To: nos@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Replacement Headlight bulb for MK1 MR2 >> I was wondering if there are any other manufacturers (like Hella & PIAA) that makes "brighter" headlights for MK1 MR2 Does Toyota use a standard design for the bulb? H1...H2...etc. up to H7 or something. Brighter bulbs are available in these sizes, though you might have to look around. Technically, this is illegal, but then the guy who sold me my big Hellas runs 400 watts on the front of his wife's Bimmer and no problems yet... Chuck xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 14:35:58 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Santiago Oleas Subject: me/mine/mods + info requested Name : Santiago Oleas Location : Montreal, Canada Model : 1986 Toyota Corolla GTS Engine : 4A-GE (from a Japanese Corolla) Mods : Polypropeline skid plate, Terratrip 404 Rally computer Well, this is the third time I resubscribe. I unsubscribed about a month ago because I was getting married and I was going to be away from my computer for about 3 weeks. Anyhow, here's the history of my car. About 3-4 years ago my dad and I bought the car from someone who never bothered changing or checking his oil level. We had to change the engine with one of probably ill repute. What I mean is that 3-4 years later, even with proper maintenance and some rally driving, I ended up with zero compression in my number two cylinder. Anyway, a little over 3 weeks ago I got married and what my buddies decided to get me as a wedding gift was a new engine for the car. They couldn't find one in my province of Quebec but did find one in Ontario that originated from a Japanese model and it only has 50,000km (30,000 miles). I would like to know if there is any difference between the North American (or Canadian) 4A-GE and the Japanese one? After that, I would like to know what anyone has done with respect to modifying breaks on this model Corolla. Thanks, -- Santiago Oleas Montreal, Canada xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Fri, 9 Aug 96 17:21:43 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 3TG Turbo To the list, The 3T-GTE is an 8 valve, never was 16,never needed to be. It has the same block as the 13T, 3T and you can easily swap the heads between 2TG and 3T-GTE. In fact I used 3tG blocks all the time for my 2TG motors, because they were cheaper and in greater numbers, They also have stronger rods. The oil pump on the turbo is larger but ran ok in non turbo form. The 3T-GTE heads were so useless to me for racing I threw two of them into the dumpmaster because they were so cheap and common. I also gave away a few sets of those low comp pistons. It seems these would have been valuable to some of you, pity I didnt have the net in 1990. BRUCE xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 09:41:53 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Intake plenums. Hiya all, > For anyone who has made their own intake plenums, (or just knows >quite a bit about it) I was wondering about the torque vs HP debate over >plenum length, shape and curvature. I also think I remember hearing about a >Ford (?) design with a dual plenum setup, with a longer plenum giving more >torque at low rpm's and a short runner providing for better flow at high >RPM's. Does this work well enough to consider it? Any other innovative >designs or basic constraints out there to know about? > A couple of simple rules for making inlet manifolds - 1. Air doesn't like turning corners, so keep it as straight as possible. 2. Don't change diameters/tube areas very quickly, if at all. But it is usually best to start off with a bigger inlet 'trumpet' and slowly decrease the diameter down to the size of the valve. 3. 'Short' inlets improve power at higher rpms, and 'long' inlet vice-versa. How long/short? There's a couple of considerations, but I'll get to that in a sec. 4. DCOE Webers are about 99% as good as EFI if set up properly. (Though not many people can set up Webers properly. :( ) 5. Separate inlet tracts are better than anything else, ie, one completely seperate inlet for each cylinder. (Like a twin DCOE Weber set up on a four cylinder) Ok, so the end result seems to be that a 'twin Weber' style manifold is best for a four cylinder. What's the easiest & cheapest way to do that? AFAIK, there's at least three ways of doing it - Build it completely from scratch (NOT cheap, NOT easy), fit aftermarket Weber style throttle bodies to an aftermarket manifold, (Still not very cheap, but a lot easier), and the way I'm going to use for my new 4AGE; two 'dead' Webers (only the thottle butterflys remain and all other holes blocked up) and an inlet manifold fabricated from about $20 of alloy. (Very cheap, fairly easy) I've done the 'complete fabrication from scratch' one, and can honestly say that there is no way I'm going to do it again! It took about a month with the assistance of 'hired help' to do the extensive fibreglass work, and although the end result is bloody good it's just not worth the time & effort to do it. (If anyone wants a picture of it through email, let me know and I'll post it to them) At the end of the day, I'd say that it would have cost nearly Aus$1000 to make ... I haven't done the aftermarket Weber throttle body & aftermarket inlet manifold thing, and I've no reason to. What I will be doing for the new 4AGE is this - I've got two 'dead' Webers that have nothing in them but the butterflys, and I'm going to fit them to a short fabricated alloy manifold. It's fairly easy to do and fit to an existing EFI engine. A couple of points in doing so - You'll have to fit all the sensors to the new inlet system which isn't hard to so, but the big problem is that the original computer will most probably have a fit with the new inlet vacuum signals. (Toyota computers use throttle postion, inlet air temp, and manifold vacuum. It's not a bother with my aftermarket computer because it only uses thottle position & inlet air temp) Separate inlet tracts make VERY big pulses in vacuum, so the computer will go a bit beserk trying to work it out ... (and yes, you can try to connect up all four inlet tracts to even out the pulses; you can _try_ ...) The other problem is vacuum for the brakes. You'll _probably_ be able to get enough vacuum for the vacuum booster, but with the bigger cams it's going to be a bother, so what I'm going to do is simply fit the car with an alternator from a light diesel truck. (They have no inlet vacuum, so they use a vacuum pump on the back of the alternator to make the booster work) Righto, how long should the inlets be? If you're deadly serious, you could do what the Formula One boys do and use variable length trumpets! As a matter of interest, Motec in Melbourne, Australia make them, but I think they are just a wee bit expensive for mere mortals like us. There _is_ a complex formula to determine the desired length inlet, but at my other home I have a small graph that shows a fairly accurate 'quick & dirty' way of guesstimating the correct length. (FWIW, it'll be nearly two weeks before I'm at my other home again so I can get to the graph) From memory though, for most applications an inlet length of 11 inches from the middle of the inlet valve to the end of the inlet trumpet proper will be best for about 6000 - 7000 rpm. This will vary with different inlet cam timing. The effect of inlet length can be very powerful, ie, the F1 boys can get a volumetric efficiency of over 120% with super tuning the inlet & exhaust lengths, while us poor plebs have trouble getting close to 100%. :) If anyone wants any more info, specific or otherwise, let me know. The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 09:42:00 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Replacement Headlight bulbs. Hiya all, >One of my head light went out the other day too. I went a auto parts >store and bought two new 55/65 watts instead of 35/65 watts which is >standard. I had to replace the whole housing. They didn't sell just the >bulb. The price was a little more. I think $21 compared to $17 or so. But >I haven't driven it at night yet, so I don't know how much brighter it is. > FWIW, in Aus, we have a legal limit of 55 watts low beam and 60 watts high beam. The headlights on my AE-86 with those strength bulbs are about as useful as a third nostril. To get mine up to being as good as the average power headlight, I had to fit 90/100's. In my rally car I have 90/130's, and I have heard stories of a mythical 130/180 beast. In most cars, the standard wiring is good for 100 watts. If you want more than that, the best way AFAIK is to use extra relays to get power straight from the battery to the headlights. (Just use the existing headlight wire to power the new relay, and use 20amp+ wire for the new wiring. If you can't get 20amp wire, just use 2 * 10amp in parallel) Use the absolute minimum number of connections, as each connector sucks power and creates another reliabilty problem. Solder all connectors to the wire where possible, too. The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 19:40:37 -0700 From: Val MacDonald To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: philip.bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Fibre-glass body Hi Phil, thanks for the notes on braking systems. I am not to concerned with the brake system, as long as it locks up when I hit whoooo pedal is all that counts. where I run this car, it's likely to sustain a reasonable amount of damage. Thats one of the reasons for glass the is weight, the whole bodyshell only weighs 20Kg, so you can see the reasoning. It is just one of those projects you have to do on time. So I have to make time, the wife doesn't mind as this 1st car is for her anyway. Regards Val -- On road: 88 Celica GT4 (3S-GTE) On road: 88 MR2 Supercharged T/Top (4AGZE) Project: 84 Fibreglass Celica (3T-GTE) Mosgiel. New Zealand. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 19:41:21 -0700 From: Val MacDonald To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: AdeM@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Fibre Glass Your MR2 Hi Adrienne, thanks for your notes, Im interested in your MR2's, where are you racing them, what you've done with them. I was goiing make a Glass MR2 but speedway has a rule that your No. plug has to be no further forward than the rear axle line. aha but this rule applies to in line engines East/West have to be place within 25mm of original. Meaning I can race a mid mounted engine. Aha again, you do that and someone want like it and change the rules. So I decided rather spend all my time and effort building a car that they would more than likely outlaw. Bingo a 3T-GTE celica, no more arguments. As far as making a plaster cast of a car is quite simple: have plenty of patience (how the hell do you spell that). you need to use casting plaster, not jibstop or sustitutes. the plaster needs to to be whipped into a nice flowing cream. before that you use a mixer of natural wax with a little kero or diesel and polish the panel with a reasonable amount of wax. mix your first brew and apply with a wall papering brush, you end up with a bloody mess on the ground so either cover the ground or do it where it don't matter. after you get your first brew on, lay some fibre glass fibre in in the plaster while someone else is quickly cleaning up and making your next brew, as soon as you have your fibre on start putting your next coat on. the plaster goes off very quickly, like about 10 - 15 min so you have to be prepared and go like hell. the plaster cast can be carefully removed after one hour. Let your plaster dry properly for a couple of weeks, I was told that you need to paint the plaster, but Im not that patient, I made my glass body out of the plaster, only had a few small bits of plaster attach itself to glass, but sands off real easy, if you need more body panels, make a new glass mould from your new glass panel. Bingo you're on your way. whats your location in NZ. Im in Mosgiel, just South of Dunedin Regards Val -- On road: 88 Celica GT4 (3S-GTE) On road: 88 MR2 Supercharged T/Top (4AGZE) Project: 84 Fibreglass Celica (3T-GTE) Mosgiel. New Zealand. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 9 Aug 1996 21:17:21 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: Intake plenums. To: "Bill Sherwood" , Reply to: RE>>Intake plenums. Howdy, B man. Hi, all. >> I also think I remember hearing about a >>Ford (?) design with a dual plenum setup, with a longer plenum giving more >>torque at low rpm's and a short runner providing for better flow at high >>RPM's. Or remember the multiple injector stack lengths, used on Chevy big blocks in Can Am cars? Would it make any sense to have four (!) different lengths on a 4-banger? >the way I'm going to use for my new 4AGE; two 'dead' Webers (only the >throttle butterflies remain and all other holes blocked up) and an inlet >manifold fabricated from about $20 of alloy. Yeah, I think you're right; the 'bang for the buck' agenda favors the 'dead DCOE' approach. Just to stir the pot some more, has anyone thought about a sliding throttle valve assembly. I think it would have a bigger advantage over carbs, than butterfly valve throttle bodies... because when it is WFO there is no turbulence inducing butterfly plate in the throat. Maybe it's a dumb idea (because of sealing problems and all) but has anyone considered such a thing? To deal with the sealing problem, what if you make the sliding throttle piece out of a thick sheet of Nylon or Teflon, lap the aluminum stationary plates super smooth using a sheet of glass, then preload the resulting sandwich from the outside, with light uniform pressure (soft rubber shims?) >DCOE Webers are about 99% as good as EFI if set up properly. Implicitly, I think you mean using throttle bodies, not a sliding throttle plate. Yeah, seems plausible, for a race car, because on carbs you would simply use a slightly bigger throat, to recover the flow lost (compared with throttle bodies) in the venturi. I think you'd probably agree, this would be less true for a street car. You couldn't match the combination of good low velocity mixture metering and good high velocity flow, available on injection, with DCOEs. >Separate inlet tracts make VERY big pulses in vacuum, so the computer >will go a bit berserk trying to work it out ... (and yes, you can try to connect >up all four inlet tracts to even out the pulses You could also use an accumulator. You could smooth out (low pass filter, for EE types out there) the pressure signals by providing four separate vacuum hoses terminating to a small tank. Still, I guess it might make more sense to use an aftermarket computer anyway... nice to have the adjustment features. >Righto, how long should the inlets be? I have a small graph that >shows a fairly accurate 'quick & dirty' way of guesstimating the correct >length. Bill, how's your scanner's health at the moment? I would love to see a copy of that inlet length graph you're talking about... if you remember two weeks hence. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 15:47:24 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Meet crazy Bill, snr. Hiya all, Just a quick note to say that my father has gone a bit over-the-top, I think. He's gone and bought an engine dyno. It's a water brake device, and can measure up to 1000 hp so I think that it should well and truly cover my 4AGE efforts ... Wonder what the neigbours will think? HA! As if I care ;) The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 15:47:30 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Roger Ramjet?? Hiya all, Here's a story I found that you will no doubt get a good laugh over. I've reproduced it exactly as written, except for correcting spelling mistakes. Enjoy! ---------------------------- The Darwin Awards honour the person who did the gene pool the biggest service by killing themselves in the most extraordinarily stupid way. Last year's winner was the fellow who was killed by a Coke machine which toppled over on top of him as he was attempting to tip a free drink out of it. And this year's nominee is: The Arizona Highway Patrol came across a pile of smoldering metal embedded into the side of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of a curve. The wreckage resembled the site of an aeroplane crash, but it was a car. The type of car was unidentifiable at the scene. The lab fially figured out what it was and what had happened. It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit (Jet Assisted Take Off - actually a solid fuel rocket) that is used to give heavy military transport planes an extra "push" for taking off from short airfields. He had driven his Chevy Impala out into the desert and found a long, straight stretch of road. Then he attached the JATO unit to his car, jumped in, got up some speed and fired off the JATO! The facts as best as could be determined are that the operator of the 1967 Impala hit the ignition at a distance of approximately 3.0 miles from the crash site. This was established by the prominent scorched and melted ashpalt at that location. The JATO, if operating properly, would have reached maximum thrust within 5 seconds, causing the Chevy to reach speeds well in excess of 350 mph and continuing at full power for an additional 20-25 seconds. The driver, soon to be pilot, most likely would have experienced g-forces reserved for dog-fighting F-14 jock under full afterburners, basically causing him to become insignificant for the remainder of the event. However, the automobile remained on the straight highway for about 1.5 miles (15-20 seconds) before the driver applied and completely melted the brakes, blowing the tyres and leaving thick rubber marks on the road surface, then becoming airborne for an additional 1.4 miles and impacting the cliff face at a hieght of 125 feet leaving a blackened crater 3 feet deep in the rock. Most of the driver's remains were not recoverable; however, small fragments of bone, teeth and hair were extracted from the crater and fingernail and bone shards were removed from a piece of debris believed to be a prtion of the steering wheel. ----------------------------------- Quote: "Beep, beep." Unquote. 'The Road Runner!' ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Richard Parry To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 18:00:21 +1200 Subject: Oil problems Some reading my last post to Phil will note that I mentioned that I *never* burn oil. I should have kept my dumb-ass mouth shut :) Going for my weekly "stress relief" performance drive late last night, my engine started to knock. I check all the warning lights, looked under the car, checked the bolts on the wheels, checked the belts, and even checked for birds and small children who might be caught in my air filter :) Nothing. So, being about 1:30am when I drive (gently) home, I decide to fax my mechanic. The guy calls me at 7:30am when he gets at work, and says, "It's sick, bring it in." The prognoses was bearings. Nonplussed, I waved my engine warranty card at him and told him to do his worst. He then did something that completely skipped my mind - he checked the oil. Completely dry. The 3GE 86-89 engine takes about 3.9 litres of oil to full. When I purchased the car 4,500 kilometers ago, it'd had a new oil filter and oil change. It took 3 litres back to full again. Now, the car had had the gasket seal replaced about a month ago, as it was burning some (small amount) of oil. This was replaced, oil burning stopped, all seemed fine (until last night). With new oil in the engine, the sound has completely gone. With luck, there should be no damage to the engine, but I'll see how it goes in a month or two (I'll get them to open it up when it's serviced to check on things). The question for all you guys is: Where the hell did my oil go? There's: a) No burning oil in the exhaust. I've done standard tricks like letting it idle for a while then gunning it hard, and I just get steam or nothing out the other end. b) No oil spots in my car pad at home or at work. It doesn't seem to be leaking out when it's parked. Have aliens been sucking out my oil at night? WTF is going on here? The engine doesn't run hot (not even when running on less than a litre of oil) and seems to keep oil pressure very well, even low. I'm really running out of ideas here. I could try stuffing some "Wynns Stop Leak" for oil or something through my engine, but those are evil dark magic products, and I don't trust 'em. Comments? Bloody 'ell, everyone bow down to the maker of the Celica GTR engine for making it run on less oil that I have in a good fry up when cooking breakfast :) Cheers Richard -- Richard Parry. Tonic for the thinking man. richard@acheron.actrix.gen.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 11:03:48 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: "Ronald C. Thompson" Subject: 2.0 factory supercharged??? Hi everyone.. Does anyone know anything about a toyota 2 litre supercharged engine? A friend of mine SWEARS he saw a Levin ('88-89 vintage) with a badge that he says read '2.0i Supercharger'. I have never seen any mention of a toyota engine with these specs. Does anyone else know about such a vehicle? Or should I tell him to change his glasses? Thanks much. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: 2.0 factory supercharged??? To: ronald@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Ronald C. Thompson) Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:07:45 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > Hi everyone.. > > Does anyone know anything about a toyota 2 litre supercharged engine? > > A friend of mine SWEARS he saw a Levin ('88-89 vintage) with a badge that he > says read '2.0i Supercharger'. I have never seen any mention of a toyota > engine with these specs. Does anyone else know about such a vehicle? Or > should I tell him to change his glasses? Yup, there is one. 1G-GZE. But it's an inline 6, and I have some doubts about it being in a FWD Corolla... The only other supercharged Toyota engine is the 4A-GZE, which was available for top of the line Corollas, but it's only 1.6 liters. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Roger Ramjet?? To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood) Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:40:18 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > Hiya all, > Here's a story I found that you will no doubt get a good laugh > over. I've reproduced it exactly as written, except for correcting spelling > mistakes. Enjoy! Oh no. Not again. I think I laughed the first couple of times I saw this story, but I think that was two years ago. Since then, it gets posted to every automotive mailing list every month... I hope SOMEBODY read it now for the first time ;) Next, we will probably start the argument of torque vs horsepower, and the proper shift points, followed by a religious war of oils, synthetic vs non-synthetic and between brands... Either I'm stuck in a time loop or I'm getting old... -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 15:45:48 -0400 To: bilzilla@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Bill Sherwood), From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Roger Ramjet?? Ok, ok, ok - this is the third time I've read this. :) If I see this, or the 'Good Times' virus alert e-mail message, I'll loose it! :) Steve B. >Hiya all, > Here's a story I found that you will no doubt get a good laugh >over. I've reproduced it exactly as written, except for correcting spelling >mistakes. Enjoy! >---------------------------- >The Darwin Awards honour the person who did the gene pool the biggest >service by killing themselves in the most extraordinarily stupid way. > >Last year's winner was the fellow who was killed by a Coke machine which >toppled over on top of him as he was attempting to tip a free drink out of it. > >And this year's nominee is: > >The Arizona Highway Patrol came across a pile of smoldering metal embedded >into the side of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of a curve. The >wreckage resembled the site of an aeroplane crash, but it was a car. The >type of car was unidentifiable at the scene. The lab fially figured out what >it was and what had happened. > >It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit (Jet Assisted >Take Off - actually a solid fuel rocket) that is used to give heavy military >transport planes an extra "push" for taking off from short airfields. He had >driven his Chevy Impala out into the desert and found a long, straight >stretch of road. Then he attached the JATO unit to his car, jumped in, got >up some speed and fired off the JATO! > >The facts as best as could be determined are that the operator of the 1967 >Impala hit the ignition at a distance of approximately 3.0 miles from the >crash site. This was established by the prominent scorched and melted >ashpalt at that location. The JATO, if operating properly, would have >reached maximum thrust within 5 seconds, causing the Chevy to reach speeds >well in excess of 350 mph and continuing at full power for an additional >20-25 seconds. The driver, soon to be pilot, most likely would have >experienced g-forces reserved for dog-fighting F-14 jock under full >afterburners, basically causing him to become insignificant for the >remainder of the event. However, the automobile remained on the straight >highway for about 1.5 miles (15-20 seconds) before the driver applied and >completely melted the brakes, blowing the tyres and leaving thick rubber >marks on the road surface, then becoming airborne for an additional 1.4 >miles and impacting the cliff face at a hieght of 125 feet leaving a >blackened crater 3 feet deep in the rock. > >Most of the driver's remains were not recoverable; however, small fragments >of bone, teeth and hair were extracted from the crater and fingernail and >bone shards were removed from a piece of debris believed to be a prtion of >the steering wheel. >----------------------------------- > >Quote: >"Beep, beep." >Unquote. > >'The Road Runner!' > >~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ > Dum volvo, video disco > Em tasal, wantok. > "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." >** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 15:49:19 -0400 To: "Ronald C. Thompson" , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: 2.0 factory supercharged??? >Hi everyone.. > >Does anyone know anything about a toyota 2 litre supercharged engine? > >A friend of mine SWEARS he saw a Levin ('88-89 vintage) with a badge that he >says read '2.0i Supercharger'. I have never seen any mention of a toyota >engine with these specs. Does anyone else know about such a vehicle? Or >should I tell him to change his glasses? > >Thanks much. There was a 2.0l SC Previa - the mini-van. This is the unit that I would like to (one day) stuff into my '91T MR2, and make a Mk II TwinCharger. I'll have to do the research, and find out what the engine designation is, and any other pertinent technical data. But basically, it's a 2.0l SC compressor, and oh do I want one! :) Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 18:32:59 -0400 From: Trevor Boicey To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, shop-talk@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Car ramps Where can I get a set of car ramps that I can use with my 1992 Celica GT? The regular WalMart variety that I use with my 1982 and 1983 Corolla SR5s and my 1975 MG Midget have too steep of an incline, so the plastic chinpiece hits before the wheels start to drive up the ramp. Is there a "low angle" variety somewhere that use longer ramps? Or don't attempt to lift as high? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Trevor Boicey - Computer Engineer 1992 Celica GT (95% of the driving I do) 1975 MG Midget (95% of the repairs I do) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 12:40:40 +1000 To: "Erik Berg" From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Intake plenums. Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hiya All, and Erik, >Or remember the multiple injector stack lengths, used on Chevy big blocks in Can Am cars? Would it make any sense to have four (!) different lengths on a 4-banger? > Hmmm ... dunno. As a gut feeling I'd say no, but you'd really have to try it and see for yourself for each specific application. (I have also considered trumpets with angled ends to try and make the overall length of the inlet tract a bit vague to the resonance pulse, but I'm far from confident that it would work) Fortunately, I now have the facility to do just that ... Hehehe :):) When/if I get around to it, I'll let you know. FWIW, for those of you lucky enough to live in Aus or New Zealand, you might be interested to know that the new dyno was originally owned by Bo Seton when he worked in Melbourne. >Just to stir the pot some more, has anyone thought about a sliding throttle valve assembly. I think it would have a bigger advantage over carbs, than butterfly valve throttle bodies... because when it is WFO there is no turbulence inducing butterfly plate in the throat. Maybe it's a dumb idea (because of sealing problems and all) but has anyone considered such a thing? > >To deal with the sealing problem, what if you make the sliding throttle piece out of a thick sheet of Nylon or Teflon, lap the aluminum stationary plates super smooth using a sheet of glass, then preload the resulting sandwich from the outside, with light uniform pressure (soft rubber shims?) > Yes, the throttle slide _is_ an excellent way of making a very efficient inlet system, but the big problem for road use is that ANY grit that gets in tends to eventually jam up the slides. And apparently they NEVER jam closed, only open ... :( I reckon the way around this problem is to do what the F1 boys do - in place of the throttle slide they have a round bar and they cut the inlet port shape into the bar so that it ends up rotating (around its long axis) and working just like a normal butterfly, but when it's full open there's no restrictions at all in the inlet. Much easier to seal, and in fact to build. (Haven't got a clue as to how slides live so well in motorbikes) Throttle slides have their other performance problems as well - if you make it so the slide is one long piece of metal that covers the length of the inlet ports, then as you open the slide it uncovers one side of the port first. _Not_ good for 4 or 5 valve per cylinder engines. (But potentially not-so-bad for 2 valve, depending upon the direction of the slide) The technically correct way of doing it is to pull the slide downwards from top to bottom, with no lateral motion. This has to be done for each cylinder, and so becomes VERY unwieldy! I have heard some reliable information that quite often there is no performance advantage in using throttle slides compared to conventional butterflys anyway. >>DCOE Webers are about 99% as good as EFI if set up properly. > >Implicitly, I think you mean using throttle bodies, not a sliding throttle plate. Yeah, seems plausible, for a race car, because on carbs you would simply use a slightly bigger throat, to recover the flow lost (compared with throttle bodies) in the venturi. > See the above parargaphs. It's also a LOT cheaper to buy bigger venturis (you can usually just swap them with someone anyway) for a Weber than buy bigger throttle bodies. :) >I think you'd probably agree, this would be less true for a street car. You couldn't match the combination of good low velocity mixture metering and good high velocity flow, available on injection, with DCOEs. > No, but you can come remarkably close! (I did say 'set up properly' :) Have a look one day at the complexity of the low speed end of Weber metering - rather elaborate and _very_ clever! I'd be confident in saying that the only reason EFI usually gets better MPG than Webers is because of the 'closed loop' system constantly seeks for best economy. Webers also have no provision for altitude or temperature compensation, which is part of just about every EFI system in use today. >>Separate inlet tracts make VERY big pulses in vacuum, so the computer >>will go a bit berserk trying to work it out ... (and yes, you can try to connect >>up all four inlet tracts to even out the pulses > >You could also use an accumulator. You could smooth out (low pass filter, for EE types out there) the pressure signals by providing four separate vacuum hoses terminating to a small tank. > Yeah, you could spend an awfully long time fiddling with it trying to get it to work ... It shouldn't be impossible, merely very difficult & time consuming to make the system reliable. ;) >Still, I guess it might make more sense to use an aftermarket computer anyway... nice to have the adjustment features. > Yeah, ya gotta learn how to drive and fiddle at the same time! :) >>Righto, how long should the inlets be? I have a small graph that >>shows a fairly accurate 'quick & dirty' way of guesstimating the correct >>length. > >Bill, how's your scanner's health at the moment? I would love to see a copy of that inlet length graph you're talking about... if you remember two weeks hence. > I'll dig it up 'bout then, ok? The B Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ Dum volvo, video disco Em tasal, wantok. "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 23:50:33 -0400 To: Trevor Boicey , From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair) Subject: Re: Car ramps At 06:32 PM 8/10/96 -0400, Trevor Boicey wrote: >...ramps ..... > The regular WalMart variety that I use with my 1982 and 1983 > Corolla SR5s and my 1975 MG Midget have too steep of an incline, > so the plastic chinpiece hits before the wheels start to drive up > the ramp. > I haven't seen any. I have the same problem with my Accord, Civic, and Mini van. What I've found that works is to place the ramps so they just don't touch the chinpiece. Then I lay a brick (**not** a cynder block) the foot of the ramps. As you start up the brick raises the car enough to allow the chinpiece to not hit the ramps. One word of caution. Be sure no one or no viechals are near you car when you start up the ramps. I've had one of the cars "kick" one of the bricks out once. That was scary as my Morgan was sitting next to the van going up the ramps. The brick missed the Morgan by a few inches. This has only happened once and I've been doing this for over 10 years. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire The one with the most toys, wins! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 15:41:25 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Roger Ramjet? Oh no! Not again! Hiya all, >Oh no. Not again. I think I laughed the first couple of times I saw >this story, but I think that was two years ago. Since then, it gets >posted to every automotive mailing list every month... I hope >SOMEBODY read it now for the first time ;) >Ok, ok, ok - this is the third time I've read this. :) If I see this, or >the 'Good Times' virus alert e-mail message, I'll loose it! :) Sorry guys & gals - I've been on this mailng list not quite a year now, and I've never seen that 'rocket car' thing before. Look, I'll make it up to you: I've heard this great joke about a road and a traveling chook ... ;) The B- Man. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." Dum volvo, video disco ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 18:03:36 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Front Turn Signal Lamp MR2 MKII Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I have seen a couple of inquires about the lens of the front signal lamp of the MR2 MKII for a White/Yellow combination against the Yellow/Yellow available in the US. This is the European standard and I think it is not legal in the US as the US is NOT legal in Europe. Funny but a car with Yellow/Yellow combination does not get homologated to be driven in Europe!!! For those who want to get the White/Yellow combination lens all they have to do is order through Toyota the European part no which is as follows: Right hand one 81511-17071 (also 81511-17070) Left hand one 81521-17071 (also 81521-17070) You get the complete lens assy and the plastic reflector back with the holes to mount the two lamps, one for turn signal and the other for the car's edge lights as called here. The Yellow reflector piece (without lamp behind it) called cover assy which mounts right along with the above and covers the mounting screw as well, is Yellow for both types and comes under a separate part no. which is: RH 81610-17010 LH 81620-17010 Regards, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Larry Spector" To: Trevor Boicey Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 10:38:15 +0000 Subject: Re: Car ramps Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, shop-talk@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I've been using a set of "Rhinoramps". These are made of black plastic, and have both longer ramps and a slighty lower lifting height than normal ramps. I don't have their # handy, but I can probably dig it out if anyone's interested. I've used these ramps with my old Eclipse GSX, and a 626 GT, and friends of mine have used them on a '94 Mustang Cobra and a '95 Z28. -Larry Spector lis@visix.com On 10 Aug 96 at 18:32, Trevor Boicey wrote: > Where can I get a set of car ramps that I can use with my > 1992 Celica GT? > > The regular WalMart variety that I use with my 1982 and 1983 > Corolla SR5s and my 1975 MG Midget have too steep of an incline, > so the plastic chinpiece hits before the wheels start to drive up > the ramp. > > Is there a "low angle" variety somewhere that use longer > ramps? Or don't attempt to lift as high? > -- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Trevor Boicey - Computer Engineer > 1992 Celica GT (95% of the driving I do) > 1975 MG Midget (95% of the repairs I do) > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Corolla ? Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 08:06:07 PDT Hi group, freshly back from my sailing holiday on the south coast with 193 mail messages to sort through. While driving around in my trusty Toyota I pulled up to the bumper of what I thought was my cars twin, but no ! this car looked every bit the same as mine but it had Corolla FX-GT Twin Cam stickers all over it. I have never heard of an FX-GT Twin Cam, I seem to remember an FX being in one of the engine types am I right ? What is it, anyone ? Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: BBRANDT@tcmail.frco.com Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 10:15:59 -0500 Subject: $20,000 1989 SC MR2? To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com In the back of this months Road & Track a guy has an add for an '89 SC MR2 that he wants $20,000 for. Claims that there were only 600 made and that they were "never" imported into the US. Is there some special SC MR2 I've never heard of or does this guy just not have a clue? The picture looks like all the other SC MR2s I've ever seen, including mine. Maybe this will start a run on SCs ;-). Bruce Brandt bbrandt@tcmail.frco.com Austin, TX xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: Re: Why No Information about the 4A-GE motors in the UK Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 08:25:55 PDT >Guys, > I recently purchased a copy of Fast Car magazine from a local >newstand here. I was rather surprised to find nothing of mention about = any >competitive Corollas or MR2s in the UK. From cover to cover, all mention= was >basically on the diefied Ford Escorts. It appears that they've dicontinu= ed >the Cosworths and now have the RS2000. Honorable mentions were made of = the >VW family of cars(Gulf, Corrados) and the venerable Renault R5s. >Not much on Accuras, Hondas, nor Mitsus either, left me baffled!. I imag= ine >these cars were exported to the UK, or is it just the bias of the guys = at >Fast Car? Will appreciate any response and enlightenment. >Patrick >'86 GT-S Corolla. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D Yes I know it's frustrating for me as well to see all these modification = mags with no mention of the 4age. So far I have descovered 1 magazine that = has done something with a 4age and that was only the ignition side of things. If only they knew what could be done. Unfortunately as you spotted, in = England there are a lot of people that like playing around with Ford's (Fast Ford= magazine just deal with Ford's, Fast Car are very bias towards ford also = the Ford car is readily available and parts are easy to come by (scrappies/br= eakers and places like that). The Corolla is very hard to come by and unless = you know personally of a 4age supplier you are stuck with paying Toyota prices = from main dealers. It took my 5 months to find the Corolla that I now drive. Enlightened ? Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 10:03:22 -0600 Subject: V-8 Into 4x4 Pickup To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello all, I know this is sacrilege (spelling??) - putting a chevy engine into a toyota, but after building my 22R, I still need more torque. I pull a 3000lb trailer, and I have no real complaints, except for the long uphills where additional power might be necessary Also my manual trans is starting to make bearing noise, so with that said, I am considering a swap to a chevy V-8 (305) with the 700R4 overdrive trans. I've located the donor car - an 85 caprice that's been wrecked. Advance makes the motor mounts & the transfer case adapter. NWOR makes the PS pump brackets.I know I'll add a radiator, have exhaust work and driveshafts modified - I'll also have to figure out the A/C bracketry. anything else? A couple of questions for you folks out there... Has anyone else out here done this? How did it turn out? What unexpected costs did you run in to? What gear ratio are you running (tires & diff)? Anyone know of used parts for this swap? Other places to look for deals? Chris? - Brian bwiencek@kcnet.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 13:21 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: rear gears How hard is it to install rear gears? Do I need special tools? I heard you do to properly align the gears? Anybody? bert xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 09:38:11 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MKIITurbo temperature range Well i finally picked up my 92 MR2 Turbo and its sooo great. I drove it home for the first time for about 25 miles because i bought it from another city and everything is perfect. Except i noticed that the temperature gauge stays in the middle. I've never owned a car that kept the needle in the middle, usually its around 1/4 way. I was just wondering if this is normal for the MKIIT. After i parked the car at home and let the turbo cool down, I came back four hours later, the engine was still pretty hot. I just want to make sure everything. So hope everyone can tell me everything is cool (no pun intended). Thanks. Harry C. Wang hwang@nchip.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 20:28:31 +0200 To: "Harry Wang" From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > So as i understand it, not everything is clear. The reflector is still > yellow? Is this apparent in your picture on the homepage, sorry i > haven't had time to look at it. Do you know if there is also a clear > reflector assembly? I know this kind of defeats the purpose of a > reflector but oh well. > > Harry C. Wang > hwang@nchip.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- That is correct Harry. The reflector portion, last towards the rear is yellow for all makes. Would not make sense to be white. Then the middle portion is white, with a lamp behind it which stays lit when the lights are on, along with the rear red lights, which are used to indicate the width of the car, sort of side markers, those at the front in Europe have to be white, and then comes the turn signal lights which are yellow all over the car. Sop it may be. Interesting that my car is a US import. Topyota in Germany, or whoever imported the car, took pain in drilling holes to the main beams, install a small bulb, re-wire the yellow front lights removing the bulb from them to the bulb installed at the side of the main beams and added some diodes to raise the main beams on the first scale of the lights..... where all he had to do is order the right Toyota part and exchange it. I brought it to stock condition with the stock European part. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 20:33:17 +0200 To: "Harry Wang" From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: MKIITurbo temperature range Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Well i finally picked up my 92 MR2 Turbo and its sooo great. I drove > it home for the first time for about 25 miles because i bought it from > another city and everything is perfect. Except i noticed that the > temperature gauge stays in the middle. I've never owned a car that > kept the needle in the middle, usually its around 1/4 way. I was just > wondering if this is normal for the MKIIT. After i parked the car at > home and let the turbo cool down, I came back four hours later, the > engine was still pretty hot. I just want to make sure everything. So > hope everyone can tell me everything is cool (no pun intended). > Thanks. > > Harry C. Wang > hwang@nchip.com > Harry this is just fine. I had a 89 MKI for 4 years and a 91 MKII T for 5 years now and never - never the needle moved from the center...regardles of the outside temperature sometimes 40 C in the summer. I think those cars have the best ever designed cooling system. Regards Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: "'Toyota Mod Mail List'" From: Tony York Subject: mr2 Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 12:01:38 PDT Hi, Do all non European MR2's come with front spots fitted as standard and are there many body kits for them. Question for a friend, and my interest. Most of the pictures i've seen of non European MR2's have had these spots and body kits ? thanks! Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota Mods From: Tony York Subject: Corolla Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 12:40:04 PDT Hi group, freshly back from my sailing holiday on the south coast with 193 mail messages to sort through. While driving around in my trusty Toyota I pulled up to the bumper of what I thought was my cars twin, but no ! this car looked every bit the same as mine but it had Corolla FX-GT Twin Cam stickers all over it. I have never heard of an FX-GT Twin Cam, I seem to remember an FX being in one of the engine types am I right ? What is it, anyone ? Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota Mods From: Tony York Subject: English 4age Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 12:43:39 PDT >Guys, > I recently purchased a copy of Fast Car magazine from a local >newstand here. I was rather surprised to find nothing of mention about any >competitive Corollas or MR2s in the UK. From cover to cover, all mention was >basically on the diefied Ford Escorts. It appears that they've dicontinued >the Cosworths and now have the RS2000. Honorable mentions were made of the >VW family of cars(Gulf, Corrados) and the venerable Renault R5s. >Not much on Accuras, Hondas, nor Mitsus either, left me baffled!. I imagine >these cars were exported to the UK, or is it just the bias of the guys at >Fast Car? Will appreciate any response and enlightenment. >Patrick >'86 GT-S Corolla. ============================================================================== Yes I know it's frustrating for me as well to see all these modification mags with no mention of the 4age. So far I have descovered 1 magazine that has done something with a 4age and that was only the ignition side of things. If only they knew what could be done. Unfortunately as you spotted, in England there are a lot of people that like playing around with Ford's (Fast Ford magazine just deal with Ford's, Fast Car are very bias towards ford also the Ford car is readily available and parts are easy to come by (scrappies/breakers and places like that). The Corolla is very hard to come by and unless you know personally of a 4age supplier you are stuck with paying Toyota prices from main dealers. It took my 5 months to find the Corolla that I now drive. Enlightened ? PS. If you get these messages twice then I appologise. My mail told me that both messages were undeliverable, so I tried again! Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 08:36:31 +1200 To: Bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: V-8 Into 4x4 Pickup Brain, Sounds like a good idea to me! More power! >What gear ratio are you running (tires & diff)? My super spreadsheet that works out diff ratios, tyre sizes etc to correlate to other diff ratios etc is a little behind where I want it to be (real uni committments have priority at the moment unfortuneately). I have it working, but not finished. If you send me the deatils of your tyre size at present and the diff ratio you run, with what you think you need , I can suss it out. Basically, if you give me the diff and tyre size from the donor car, I can give you the tyre size to match the overall ratio whilst retaining your diff, or conversely what diff ou need to change to whilst rataining your tyres. Trans ratios would be good too, but not critical. Phil Bradshaw Palmerston North NZ. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 13:55:21 -0700 From: "Ed A. Craft" To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos" Cc: Harry Wang , Subject: Re: MKIITurbo temperature range Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: > > > Well i finally picked up my 92 MR2 Turbo and its sooo great. I drove > > it home for the first time for about 25 miles because i bought it from > > another city and everything is perfect. Except i noticed that the > > temperature gauge stays in the middle. I've never owned a car that > > kept the needle in the middle, usually its around 1/4 way. I was just > > wondering if this is normal for the MKIIT. After i parked the car at > > home and let the turbo cool down, I came back four hours later, the > > engine was still pretty hot. I just want to make sure everything. So > > hope everyone can tell me everything is cool (no pun intended). > > Thanks. > > > > Harry C. Wang > > hwang@nchip.com > > > Harry this is just fine. I had a 89 MKI for 4 years and a 91 MKII T for 5 > years now and never - never the needle moved from the center...regardles of > the outside temperature sometimes 40 C in the summer. I think those cars > have the best ever designed cooling system. > > Regards > Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. > ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS > Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr I would have to agree with this as well, on my 91' (non-turbo) the temp needle has never moved above 50%. I was wondering if it would indeed ever get "heated" and if so, how would I add water or coolant. But soon relized how the design was and that unless I got a hole in my radiator or something similar, it was pretty much a maintanance free cooling system. I started watching the needle about three months ago pretty close since I drive my car pretty hard and the temps outside have been consistantly over 105 degrees here. (Sacramento, CA) NEVER HAD A PROBLEM... And know you know "the rest of the story..." -- Ed Craft OSI ADG-SS x2764 mailto:eac1@osi.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 16:07:15 -0600 Subject: Re: rear gears To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Mon, 12 Aug 96, Bert Kellerman wrote: > How hard is it to install rear gears? Not verry 'hard' just time consuming.... > Do I need special tools? Absolutely - usually a ft-lb torque wrench, and inch-lb torque wrench, bluing fluid, dial guage, press, & regular hand tools > I heard you do to properly align the gears? Anybody? Yes you have to set up the gears correctly. Mainly to assure correct gear contact patch in both power & coast modes. Buy a book that outlines the process... Or better yet go to the library and check one out - each vehicle is slightly different in the method - most require a 'crush sleeve' and shims to set up. - Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 18:16:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Joseph Horton To: Bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: V-8 Into 4x4 Pickup >> I am considering a swap to a chevy V-8 (305) with the 700R4 overdrive trans. Why the 305? The 350 is more powerful and more reliable, and fits the same mounts as the 305. >> I've located the donor car - an 85 caprice that's been wrecked. Hmm... 700R4's are pretty good, but when I was considering dropping one in the FJ40, I was told to avoid the first few years and try to get a rebuilt -- this model has been around long enough that a good rebuilder can strengthen the weak parts. >> What unexpected costs did you run in to? Well...If you're used to a 22R's gas mileage... ;) Chuck xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 16:01:54 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: LSD for MKIITurbo? How do i tell if i have a Limited Slip Differential on my 92 MR2 Turbo? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:28:15 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: Questions about 18RGU Just a couple of questions to you all. What is the Safe Redline on one of these engines?? I have reved it out to 6200- 6300 a couple of times but it still seems to have more. Also does anybody know the approximate power out put.I think the engine was made in about 1983 -84. One more. I have twin solex sidedraught carbs (44PHH I think) how should i set these properly?? The guy said they were of a 2TG. Are the jets OK? What should I set the low speed needle to?? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:39:09 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: Rear Discs for RA28 celica. To you all, Is there any way I can put discs on to the rear of my car. Did the RA28 Celica GT come with rear discs?? Or will I have to find another car with discs that i can bolt on?? Also coming down one of my favourite roads (Downhill about 10km long) I always get major brake fade. Is there any way to stop this? Without going to the trouble of buying cross-drilled discs. Just a couple more questions. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 12 Aug 1996 20:21:38 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: rear gears To: "toyota mods" Reply to: RE>>rear gears Bert wrote>> I heard you need to properly align the gears? Anybody? Brian wrote> Yes you have to set up the gears correctly. Mainly to assure >correct gear contact patch in both power & coast modes. - each >vehicle is slightly different in the method - most require a 'crush sleeve' and >shims to set up. I don't have first hand experience, but I've been told that a diff with miles on it should be set up with the contact patches close to how it was running originally, otherwise it may start to howl. Could this have something to do with work hardening of the gear faces? If the original mesh was good, they remain quiet and wear free for a LONG time, after run-in. But if you change the set up, the work hardened faces mesh with different geometry, and they can become noisy. (??) erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: , Subject: Re: Questions about 18RGU Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 13:36:06 +1000 Hi Kevin, In standard form your 18RGU should rev out to 7000 but there is little point as power really drops off around 6500. With higher compression pistons (the U signifies unleaded and 8.5:1 pistons, 18RG's have 9.7:1 compression) decent valve springs and some extra cam duration you can stretch the redline out to 8000 rpm. The standard bottom end will handle this as long as you don't want to pull these revs all day. If you want more revs or to sit near the redline for sustained periods then it starts to get expensive as with most bottom end upgrades. Your motor should be good for 120-130 hp (at the flywheel) but with some cheap reground cams you can up this to about 150. Haven't done any jetting with Mikuni's, i have always run Webbers, but as with any tuning set up it changes with each motor. A mate of mine specialises in rebuilding and tuning Mikuni carbs so if you want his number he might be able to help you out. cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: Kevin Annfield > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: Questions about 18RGU > Date: Tuesday, August 13, 1996 11:28 > > Just a couple of questions to you all. What is the Safe Redline on one of > these engines?? I have reved it out to 6200- 6300 a couple of times but it > still seems to have more. Also does anybody know the approximate power out > put.I think the engine was made in about 1983 -84. One more. I have twin > solex sidedraught carbs (44PHH I think) how should i set these properly?? > The guy said they were of a 2TG. Are the jets OK? What should I set the low > speed needle to?? > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: , Subject: Re: Rear Discs for RA28 celica. Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 13:49:41 +1000 GT RA 40 rear ends were disc brake but the suspension mounts need to be moved. I put a GT Sprinter disc brake LSD rear end in my RA23 (mechanically identical to a RA28), but again the suspension mounts need to be moved. The greatest braking improvement wound be made by upgrading your front brakes to vented disc, preferably of a larger diameter. I have the first generation vented disc we tried on my car if you are interested. The discs are a fraction larger diameter than the standard 28 discs, vented of course, with larger calipers. They are already on the struts so it would be a straight forward bolt on job. You don't need to upgrade your master cylinder and the front/rear brake bias was perfect. These brakes came off a car 300kg heavier so they will definitely pull you up alright and the venting will take care of your brake fade. If you are interseted give me a bell and we can sort out a price. If you are in Melbourne IDB Automotive do almost an identical set up but with twin spot calipers for around $800 (mine will sell for less than half this price). cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: Kevin Annfield > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: Rear Discs for RA28 celica. > Date: Tuesday, August 13, 1996 11:39 > > To you all, > Is there any way I can put discs on to the rear of my car. Did the RA28 > Celica GT come with rear discs?? Or will I have to find another car with > discs that i can bolt on?? Also coming down one of my favourite roads > (Downhill about 10km long) I always get major brake fade. Is there any way > to stop this? Without going to the trouble of buying cross-drilled discs. > Just a couple more questions. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:04:42 +1200 To: Kevin Annfield , From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Re: Rear Discs for RA28 celica. Kevin, >To you all, >Is there any way I can put discs on to the rear of my car. Did the RA28 >Celica GT come with rear discs?? Or will I have to find another car with >discs that i can bolt on?? Also coming down one of my favourite roads >(Downhill about 10km long) I always get major brake fade. Is there any way >to stop this? Without going to the trouble of buying cross-drilled discs. >Just a couple more questions. I dunno much, but I have 1983 AE86 Corolla/Levin/Trueno/Sprinter discs on the back of my car, but I have adapted them to fit what was an Escort drum brake rear axle. Best I can tell there is no difference in the AE86 rear ends other than the brakes bolted to the ends. Billzilla may be able to confirm this. Anyway, how about that as an option, especially as the cars seem to be similar year (AE86 1983-86). Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve Palmerston North NZ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:15:05 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: skchang@ucdavis.edu (Shung-Kung Chang) Subject: Loud exhaust Hi: I just put Remus muffler in my Camry but I notice the loudest exhaust noise is around 2300~2500 rpm. Is it a way to shift this point to a lower rpm or higher rpm? It is very annoying to drive at 70 mph on the highway with the loudest exhaust noise from the back. Will changing to a bigger pipe (1/4" bigger) from catback help? Or just make it worse? Sincerely Shung-Kung Chang xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 07:04:22 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Mk II MR2: 3S-GTE oil filter change *again*? Changed my oil last night, had a chance to pick up an oil filter from a dealership for $3.99. Guess they see Lou Fusz breathing down their necks! Noticed that the 3S-GTE oil filter has changed again. Don't remember the part numbers, but it used to be that the 4A-GE was the FO-1 (short) and the 3S-GTE was the FO-10 (tall) filter. Now the 3S-GTE is a *little* bit taller, but a little bit *fatter*. Checked the oil-fitler housing, and it looks like it was designed to take different sized filters, as well as different sized o-rings (attachment points). So I don't think it is going to leak - made it through the idle test. Did I get an old/new batch, is the filter changing again, or did the dealer have some *old* stock lying around? TIA for any info lying around out there. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 07:18:42 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MR2 MKI Rear Suspension Hello everyone. Haven't written in a while, and I have a few questions for the folks: 1) Does anyone out there use a Suspension Techniques rear anti-sway bar on their 1987-1989 MR2? If so, a) how does it install? b) how well does it work? 2) I'll make this even more general: what anti-sway bars have people found to be effective for their 1987-1989 MR2's, both in terms of performance and installation? I'm talking both front and rear here. 3) Has anyone ever tried to bolt a 1985-1986 rear suspension onto a 1987-1989 body shell? This looks like it could be done by removing the rear suspension mounting points from the 1985/6 and simply bolting them (along with all the suspension pieces) onto the 1987/8/9 body shell. But I haven't tried it, so I don't know. One last note: please respond to me via e-mail directly. Thanks in advance! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 with unknown future Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 05:46:47 -0700 To: "Harry Wang" , Subject: Re: LSD for MKIITurbo? On Aug 12, 4:01pm, Harry Wang wrote: > Subject: LSD for MKIITurbo? > How do i tell if i have a Limited Slip Differential on my 92 MR2 Turbo? The simplest method that I am aware of is just to suspend the rear wheels up and rotate them. If they both rotate in the same direction there is a "locker"/LSD and since it is a MR2 Turbo it would most likely be outfitted with one. Hope this helps. Mahalo, Allan -- ******************************************************************************* Allan Chen Silicon Graphics Inc. Kino Lele... Mountain View, CA allanc@sgi.com "The Power to Fly" (415) 933-5211 ******************************************************************************* xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 09:59:49 EDT From: "G. D. Aucott" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MK1 Goodies Hello Modders! It seems I've been busy in the garage again (my wife keeps letting me know just how long...) and I now have a fresh set of Stillen brake pads and TRD Japan "Street" springs in my MK1 (thanks Chris Myer). My impressions: Pads: GREAT! I had stock pads on the car and never felt like I had good enough stopping power... or should I say, not as good as Chris Berchin. When I stepped on his pedal I about hit the windshield... now mine is as good. It took a little for the pads to bed into the rotors but now it really stops! I imagine with the Stillen rotors it'd be even better, but this is good enough until the rotors warp or get too thin (long way away). Springs: GREAT! :) I just installed them last night so I don't have more than a test drive on them, but now you turn the car and it just hooks up and moves! They lowered the car about 3/4 of an inch (maybe an inch) and with my 205/55R14 Yokos and 1/4" offset wheels it looks fantastic. I haven't hit any major bumps yet but with the Tokicos on "5" it is a little lively but not as bad as some might think. I'm guessing on "1" it'll suck up most of these Michigan pot holes just fine. Hehehee... I can't wait for Thursday when I hit Waterford road course with it. Later! Dave A. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota Mods From: Tony York Subject: Re: mr2 Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 07:47:53 PDT >Hi, > >Do all non European MR2's come with front spots fitted as standard >and are there many body kits for them. Question for a friend, and my >interest. Most of the pictures i've seen of non European MR2's have >had these spots and body kits >? >thanks! >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Please be more specific . >What MR2, MKI or MKII? >Also what body kits? >Toyota does NOT provide with any body kits, at least for the MK II. As for >the MKI >the 98 model for Europe did come with front, rear and side skirts as stock. >Regards, >Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. >ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS >Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr ============================================================================== Sorry Mk1 MR2, I don't know what the body kit is called but it has space for spots in the front skirt, the side skirts look a bit different and there is a rear skirt, also some of the rear spoilers that I have seen are different, more of an 'n' shape as a pose to the standard angled spoiler. Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 17:30:08 EST Subject: Car Breakdown At the risk of annoying some people, I thought that I would forward the following joke. >There are four engineers traveling in a car; a mechanical engineer, a >chemical, an electrical engineer and a computer engineer. > >The car breaks down. > >"Sounds to me as if the pistons have seized. We'll have to strip down >the engine before we can get the car working again", says the >mechanical engineer. > >"Well", says the chemical engineer, "it sounded to me as if the fuel >might be contaminated. I think we should clear out the fuel system. > >"I thought it might be an grounding problem", says the electrical >engineer, "or maybe a faulty plug lead." > >They all turn to the computer engineer who has said nothing and say: >"Well, what do you think?" > >"Ummm - how about if we all get out of the car and get back in again?" Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 K&N Air Filter Eibach Springs Koni Sport Adjustable Shocks _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:34:45 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Weight of a '81 Celica David R. asked way back on the 3rd what the 81 Celica weighed. I don't know what it was stock, but after stripping all of the "unnecessaries" out for racing my 80 w/a 20R was only about 2250 lbs, including 4 point rollbar. Of course, that was before I added the 60 lbs of concrete to the LR as "ballast". Heh, they never did figure out why I was driving around them in the corners! (Turning right is just for pulling off the track!) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:42:59 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 20R Woes John G. wrote in on the 7th about his 20R wiping the lobes off the cams and the fact that he was beating on top of the valve cover. Dude, GET SOME NEW VALVE SPRINGS! Preferrably with a set of Isky inner springs. It is critical to get a new set of valve springs when you change out the cam for something with a higher lift. Those 20 year old valve springs have no hope of holding the rocker down on the cam. I'm betting that they're floating so bad that is why you're rocker arms are hitting the valve cover! Email me directly if you need source info or any idea on pricing. (Oh and sorry if someone else has already answered it--I'm working through roughly 1000 pieces of TM email!) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 18:50:43 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Front Turn Signal Lamp MR2 MKII To the MR2 owner, Clear front indicator lenses are standard on ALL Australian spec MR2's made after June 96 they certainly are not illegal here and you can retrofit them to the older cars. Its the color of the thing when it flashes that counts a fact BMW pointed out last year when all the 3.2 litre M3's went clear. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 20:16:20 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AG Cam Opportunity I've been working with Web Cams on some cams cut from brand new, uncut billets and have now got something available. There are two grinds, the 294 and the more radical 101. 294: .322" Lift 244 degrees duration at .020" 218 degrees duration at .050" 101: .350" lift 250 degrees duration at .020" 229 degrees duration at .050" Retail price on these is $440, and I'll probably be selling them for around $400 for the pair. I've already got a tester for the 294 grind, but if someone would like to guinea pig the 101 grind, I'll let them have the set for $264 plus shipping. Condition is that you have to be able and willing to do some fairly exhaustive before/after testing, and you'll have to post a note to the group on your results, good or bad. The other thing is that you'll need to have adjustable cam gears, which aren't too cheap but are going to be necessary for any cam upgrade on this engine. The cheapie TRD dowel-style are around $30 each, and the nicer adjustable vernier ones are closer to $150. If you're interested in this, let me know. It's fine to post to the list, but for best results you may want to copy me directly since it's sometimes several days or more between opportunities to read my TM mail now. Sorry, this isn't meant to be spamming the group with an advertisement. I see it as an excellent opportunity for someone who is looking for a 4AG cam upgrade to help me with some testing and save themselves some serious cash at the same time. Same warranty applies as before, if you test it and don't like it just send it back and I'll give you your money back. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 17:02:18 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: what wax do you use? I know this isn't high-performance related but i was wondering what kind of wax people are using. A nice custom sewn car cover came with my 92 MKIIT when i bought it so the paint has been kept in really nice condition. I've used Meguir's (spelling?) before it worked fairly well. Has anyone tried Zymol? I know the stuff is expensive. What about methods for drying your car after a wash. My car has no water spots on it right now and i'd like to keep that way. Thanks. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: mr2 To: york@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Tony York) Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 02:29:46 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Hi, > > Do all non European MR2's come with front spots fitted as standard > and are there many body kits for them. Question for a friend, and my > interest. Most of the pictures i've seen of non European MR2's have > had these spots and body kits > ? > thanks! > > Tony York > > 1 Woodley Chase > Duston > Northampton > England > NN5 6PS > Tony, Just wondering, but what are you referring to as a spot? Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 New Paltz, New York abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:05:53 -0400 From: hcheong@on.bell.ca (Local hcheong) To: hwang@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: what wax do you use? Harry, I've tried Zymol on my 85 White Celica and 93 Blue Camry, and would not recommend it. It was very hard to remove (by hand), I guess you might have to use a high speed buffer. I'm currently using Mothers' brand of products, the Carnuba wax is excellent, easy on and easy off, it even smells nice without all the chemical fumes. I also use Mothers' Car wash and is excellent also. If you know anything better I sure would like to know... Harvey. *_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_* Harvey Cheong ( Toyotas: 1985 Celica GT-S & 1993 Camry V6 Sport LE ) email: hcheong@on.bell.ca "IMAGINATION - A Mind Once Stretched By A New Idea, Never Regains Its Original Dimensions" *_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_* xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 10:41:46 CDT From: "Terry McLane 312.630.0533" Subject: me/mine/mods To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Terry McLane Chicago, Il 1990 Celica All-Trac Turbo 3S-GTE HKS Cat Back, Greddy Profec, Fuel Rail Mod, Adjustable Regulator, xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: ml36@cornell.edu Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 11:51:31 -0400 (EDT) To: Harry Wang Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: what wax do you use? Harry- I use Liquid Glass and have been happy with it. I've had a professional detailer tell me that Zymol is very good, but when I found out the price I immediately abandoned the idea of trying it. the Meguiar's line is well known and respected. A few general tips will keep your car looking good, no matter which brand you use. Avoid "cleaner waxes" which have abrasives to cut through oxidized layers. If your paint's in good shape now, these will just make swirl marks and gradually wear through the clear coat. Keep the car clean, and use a clean soft cloth to avoid scratching the surface while washing. Cover the car if it has to sit outside but only if the car and cover are both clean. Of course, the degree to which you follow the recommendations depends on how fanatic you are about the appearance of the car. I used to try to keep mine looking top-notch, but gave up on it because the sloppy winters and my lack of a garage made it impractically time consuming. On the other hand, people living in So. Cal. can have concours-looking cars most of the time with relatively little effort. good luck. -Mike Leary Ithaca NY 87 Corolla GTS (E Stock) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Wed, 14 Aug 96 12:54:59 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: Re[2]: 20R Woes In addition to valve float, I think the springs would bind up (be completely compressed) if used with a high lift cam. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: 20R Woes Author: Chris Myer at INTERNET-HUB Date: 8/13/96 8:05 PM John G. wrote in on the 7th about his 20R wiping the lobes off the cams and the fact that he was beating on top of the valve cover. Dude, GET SOME NEW VALVE SPRINGS! Preferrably with a set of Isky inner springs. It is critical to get a new set of valve springs when you change out the cam for something with a higher lift. Those 20 year old valve springs have no hope of holding the rocker down on the cam. I'm betting that they're floating so bad that is why you're rocker arms are hitting the valve cover! Email me directly if you need source info or any idea on pricing. (Oh and sorry if someone else has already answered it--I'm working through roughly 1000 pieces of TM email!) Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota Mods From: Tony York Subject: Re: what wax do you use? Date: Wed, 14 Aug 96 12:41:56 PDT I use "Auto Glym" or "Finish 2000". Give the car a spray with water befor= e spongeing with water and car shampoo, then spray the shampoo off, washlea= ther (clean). Then when when dry use a damp duster to apply your wax and polis= h off. For best results this should all be done out of direct sunlight. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D > I know this isn't high-performance related but i was wondering what= > kind of wax people are using. A nice custom sewn car cover came = with > my 92 MKIIT when i bought it so the paint has been kept in really = nice > condition. I've used Meguir's (spelling?) before it worked fairly = > well. Has anyone tried Zymol? I know the stuff is expensive. = What > about methods for drying your car after a wash. My car has no wate= r > spots on it right now and i'd like to keep that way. Thanks. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Wed, 14 Aug 96 14:37:28 -0600 Subject: 22R for sale anyone???? To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello, Well, I just got the donor vehicle for my v-8 swap, and I was wondering if anyone is interested in my 'old' 22R - it was built up about 8-10K mi ago (finished in March this year.) You can try it out in the truck now, and can have it right after I pull it. It has the following Specs: '84 Block, rods, pistons, crank Bearings on lower end replaced New timing chain set '75 20R head & Intake Head Ported & Polished, gasket matched. 'oversize' 22R valves milled .010 - can be milled a LOT more Downey / Weber 40DGAV carb kit, ported & polish adapter plate & intake Downey Header custom 2.5" exhaust W/Flowmaster muffler (for LWB toyota PU) TRD Cam (260/260 duration, 10.6mm lift if I remember correctly good for 1500-4500 rpm - torque/off-road) stock replacement rocker arms Distributor re-curved This thing produces LOTS more power than stock, and could really make a hot street motor with a 280 or 290 degree cam. (I built it to tow & off-road) Make me an offer or at least let me know what it's worth so I can sell it locally. Also - I'd sell the header & exhaust separately if the person buying it doesn't need it. (gotta get the new exahust for the v-8) - Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 11:18:35 GDT From: alex@redcom.ru (Alex Sherbakov) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Cressida I'm looking for 1985-1987 Toyota Cressida photo (frame GX71, MX70 and so on). Is there anybody who knows where can I get it? Cheers. Alex '87 MarkII (GX71), 1G-GEU Cheers. Alex xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 14:38:55 +0200 To: "Allan Chen" From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: LSD for MKIITurbo? Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >On Aug 12, 4:01pm, Harry Wang wrote: >> Subject: LSD for MKIITurbo? >> How do i tell if i have a Limited Slip Differential on my 92 MR2 Turbo? > > The simplest method that I am aware of is just to suspend the rear >wheels up and rotate them. If they both rotate in the same direction there >is a "locker"/LSD and since it is a MR2 Turbo it would most likely be >outfitted with one. Hope this helps. > >Mahalo, >Allan > >-- Well well, not so fast. You know that the MR2 MKII LSD is a viscus one. That means that it is the oil which makes the ....blocked end to still obtain some torque from the drive shaft. So I do not think that just turning one wheel and watching the other do so it means you have a ....blocking.....LSD. It is better to check the codes of the car. Someone a couple of years ago had posted info on how to read the codes. I regret I dont have them available. More, it is not very easy to determine what type of differential one has by just turning the wheels. Some differentials (LSD or TORSEN) operate under speed where others under torque. Some have a preloading clutch type of operation, others with oil, others blocking 100%, others 0 to 99.9% etc etc. Regards, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota Mods From: Tony York Subject: RE: What WAX do you use ? Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 07:26:18 PDT I use "Auto Glym" or "Finish 2000". Give the car a spray with water before spongeing with water and car shampoo, then spray the shampoo off, washleather (clean). Then when when dry use a damp duster to apply your wax and polish off. For best results this should all be done out of direct sunlight. =============================================================================== > I know this isn't high-performance related but i was wondering what > kind of wax people are using. A nice custom sewn car cover came with > my 92 MKIIT when i bought it so the paint has been kept in really nice > condition. I've used Meguir's (spelling?) before it worked fairly > well. Has anyone tried Zymol? I know the stuff is expensive. What > about methods for drying your car after a wash. My car has no water > spots on it right now and i'd like to keep that way. Thanks. =============================================================================== Tony York 1 Woodley Chase Duston Northampton England NN5 6PS Tel: 01604 586200 Email: york@radstone.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Car: Toyota Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V. Colour: White Engine: 4A-GE Mods: JR Bolt on Air Filter Miles: 107000 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 09:21:16 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: Re: LSD for MKIITurbo? Harry, Check the axle code, under the hood, next to the transmission code. 4 digits--one letter, then three numbers. If the 4th digit is a 3, then LSD with 2 pinions. If the 4th digit is a 5, than LSD w/ 4 pinions. Anything else is non-LSD. A complete explanation of this code and Sooooo much more can be found at Matti's WWW site (bless him!). Check it out, a true lifeline: http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ Good luck. Monte ________________ Harry Wang asked: > How do i tell if i have a Limited Slip Differential on my 92 MR2 Turbo? > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 19:31:29 -0400 To: cberchin.ford@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: MK1 Head Removal Hey folks! Today wasn't quite what I expected on the road course. I was supposed to run my MR2 with the new springs and brakes and setup with the Porsche club out at Waterford Hills road course, but my damn engine overheated half way to the track! I had to cancel out (I blew all the coolant all over my wife's car as she followed me), and since I had the day off I figured I might as well take the engine apart! >:D Pulling off the head wasn't really very hard, but there are lots of little parts to remove. I did as Steve B. recommended and followed the "green book" to the letter. It took me 7 hours to complete the removal of the head and all associated disassembly. I found the following: Timing belt was near self destruction. One whole side was cracked and chopped up (as though something had scraped on it), and there were some chunks missing from the backside! Yikes. Both the other belts were dried out and need replaced also (this engine was supposedly rebuilt about a year before I got it... hmmm). Head gasket: Blown, to put it mildy. There is a 1 inch chunk missing from the side of the #4 cylinder (front side), and the metal ring is "D" shaped instead of round. Two of the other cylinders have non-round metal rings in the gasket also. I don't know if this in normal for a 4AGE, but I've never seen one not have the metal rings round in any other engine I've dismantled... anyone? The replacement one is round and I'm sure this one was before it was installed. There was also a huge chunk of RTV sealer (orange) plugging one of the passages to the #2 cylinder. The "new" water pump has the same type sealer, so evidently they were a little generous and some of it got into the cooling system. NOT GOOD! All in all not too bad an operation. My only bitch was the 200 ft-lbs of torque someone put on the crank pully nut!!! Nothing short of a 3 foot pipe wrench would hold it still so I could use a 4 foot cheater to get the nut off (BMFPW, we call it). I suppose the SST would have worked, but who has time to go buy that? There was also about 100 ft-lbs torque on the cam gear bolts, and I nearly stripped one getting it off (near panic set in). I had to use 3 foot cheaters on this... The moral here is torque everything to the manufacturer's specs... the folks before me probably just applied the impact wrench set on full torque. This added about an hour to my time. Now to get the head checked for warp and have a valve job done, then start putting her back together. With any luck I'll be on the autocross track next weekend (with some sexy new cams (thanks CAP).... :):):) ) Cheers! Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 21:52:57 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: "Christopher P. Myer" Subject: Re: Dave >> Today wasn't quite what I expected on the road course. I was supposed to run >> my MR2 with the new springs and brakes and setup with the Porsche club out at >> Waterford Hills road course, but my damn engine overheated half way to the >> track! I had to cancel out (I blew all the coolant all over my wife's car as >> she followed me), and since I had the day off I figured I might as well take >> the engine apart! >:D Dude! I won't say I told you so (ok, I guess I did say it, but I had to say it to say that I wouldn't say it) :-P Could have been worse. Ask Fred O what a radiator hose looks like when it's been pressurized to the point of explosion! >> Pulling off the head wasn't really very hard, but there are lots of little >> parts to remove. I did as Steve B. recommended and followed the "green book" >> to the letter. Steve B is a wise man. >> Head gasket: Blown, to put it mildy. There is a 1 inch chunk missing from >> the side of the #4 cylinder (front side), and the metal ring is "D" shaped >> instead of round. Two of the other cylinders have non-round metal rings in >> the gasket also. I don't know if this in normal for a 4AGE, but I've never >> seen one not have the metal rings round in any other engine I've >> dismantled... anyone? The replacement one is round and I'm sure this one was >> before it was installed. There was also a huge chunk of RTV sealer (orange) >> plugging one of the passages to the #2 cylinder. The "new" water pump has >> the same type sealer, so evidently they were a little generous and some of it >> got into the cooling system. NOT GOOD! People get totally whacked out about RTV sealer! Don't use that stuff unless the installation instructions specifically call for it, and then use it _sparingly_. I use a little of it when I install a water pump, but I smear it on very, very thinly, just enough to stick the gasket to the block before I put the pump in place. >> All in all not too bad an operation. My only bitch was the 200 ft-lbs of >> torque someone put on the crank pully nut!!! Nothing short of a 3 foot pipe >> wrench would hold it still so I could use a 4 foot cheater to get the nut off >> (BMFPW, we call it). I suppose the SST would have worked, but who has time >> to go buy that? There was also about 100 ft-lbs torque on the cam gear >> bolts, and I nearly stripped one getting it off (near panic set in). I had >> to use 3 foot cheaters on this... The moral here is torque everything to the >> manufacturer's specs... the folks before me probably just applied the impact >> wrench set on full torque. This added about an hour to my time. Well, actually, they probably torqued it correctly and it just locked up. Happens all the time. When I found an 18R block for my 18RG, I finally gave up on getting the crank pulley off. I had the luxury of having the block out and fulley accessable and still couldn't get it off. We tried everything, cheater bars, impact wrenches, everything. What you finally have to do is use a chisel and a really big hammer. You apply the chisel to the edge of the bolt and whack it in the unscrew direction. Yes, it can really bugger up the bolt, but it is a last-ditch thing. You only need to get it to make the slightest movement. The problem you're working against is surface area. If you look at a crank pully nut, the base of that dude can be like 1.5" (40mm) in diameter, and when you torque it properly it just mates that entire surface to the crank pulley. I feel your pain. >> Now to get the head checked for warp and have a valve job done, then start >> putting her back together. With any luck I'll be on the autocross track next >> weekend (with some sexy new cams (thanks CAP).... :):):) ) No problemo! Good luck! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 12:58:18 +1000 (EST) From: Paul Pyyvaara To: "Christopher P. Myer" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Undoing crank pulley nuts... On Thu, 15 Aug 1996, Christopher P. Myer wrote: > Well, actually, they probably torqued it correctly and it just locked up. > Happens all the time. When I found an 18R block for my 18RG, I finally gave > up on getting the crank pulley off. I had the luxury of having the block > out and fulley accessable and still couldn't get it off. We tried everything, > cheater bars, impact wrenches, everything. What you finally have to do is > use a chisel and a really big hammer. You apply the chisel to the edge of Another trick is to use the starter before undoing anything :) Big socket with handle against the ground and a quick cracnk will usually undo it for you... Paul. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-Paul Pyyvaara - paulp@Bond.edu.au-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Senior Network Programmer - Information Technology Services-= =-=-B O N D U N I V E R S I T Y, QLD, 4229, AUSTRALIA=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-Phone:(+61 7 5595 1412) Fax:(+61 7 5595 1456)-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 15 Aug 1996 20:08:57 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: rear gears To: "toyota mods" Reply to: RE>>rear gears >>I've been told that a diff with miles >>on it should be set up with the contact patches close to how it was running >>originally, otherwise it may start to howl. >IF you are using USED gears, then YES they need to be set up the same as >origionally. Otherwise you need to set up the new gears in the proper contact >patch regardless what the old gears were. Right on. Erik xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 15 Aug 1996 21:04:33 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: Intake plenums. To: "toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberaut" Reply to: RE>>Intake plenums. Hi, All. Bill, you wrote: >I reckon the way around this problem is to do what the F1 boys do - in place of the throttle slide they have a round bar and they cut the inlet port shape into the bar so that it ends up rotating (around its long axis) and working just like a normal butterfly, but when it's full open there's no restrictions at all in the inlet. Much easier to seal, and in fact to build. Holy Colin Chapman, Batman! Way to solve several problems, simultaneously! >Have a look one day at the complexity of the low speed end of Weber metering - rather elaborate and _very_ clever! They are amazing devices. DCOEs are probably more able to stand up to a comparison with fuel injection than just about any other carb. >I'd be confident in saying that the only reason EFI usually gets better MPG than Webers is because of the 'closed loop' system constantly seeks for best economy. Good point. Electronic fuel mixture control with O2 feedback is one of those brute technology solutions, that makes a previously formidable problem easy. The biggest improvement is not the injection technology itself, but the electronic control technology it enables. I think the fine art of carburettor design will soon be as dead as Latin, having fallen victim to the amazing bang-for-the-buck of modern electronics. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: what wax do you use? To: hwang@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Harry Wang) Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 00:46:08 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > I know this isn't high-performance related but i was wondering what > kind of wax people are using. A nice custom sewn car cover came with > my 92 MKIIT when i bought it so the paint has been kept in really nice > condition. I've used Meguir's (spelling?) before it worked fairly > well. Has anyone tried Zymol? I know the stuff is expensive. What > about methods for drying your car after a wash. My car has no water > spots on it right now and i'd like to keep that way. Thanks. > > I've found a combination that works just incredibly. First, after washing with a good basic car wash like Napa Car Wash, I clean any oxidation away with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. This is the most incredible polish I've found. It says on the bottle that it gives a wet look and by golly, it really does! This is then followed by a coat of Simoniz Original Fine Car Wax in the yellow can. I've compared the shine of this wax to Gliptone, Meguiar's, etc. (all hard waxes by the way) and I've found that the Simoniz gives a very noticeable deeper shine than any of these. And it only costs $3 for the can. If you can't find the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, the next best thing is Gliptone Pro Buff, or Nu Finish, both work almost as good as the Imperial. That's my two cents. Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 12:07:29 +0200 To: mbedford@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Monte Bedford) From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: LSD for MKIITurbo? Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Harry, > > Check the axle code, under the hood, next to the transmission code. >4 digits--one letter, then three numbers. If the 4th digit is a 3, then >LSD with 2 pinions. If the 4th digit is a 5, than LSD w/ 4 pinions. >Anything else is non-LSD. > > A complete explanation of this code and Sooooo much more can be >found at Matti's WWW site (bless him!). Check it out, a true lifeline: > >http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ > >Good luck. > >Monte > >________________ > >Harry Wang asked: > >> How do i tell if i have a Limited Slip Differential on my 92 MR2 Turbo? >> ============================================================ I checked Matti's WWW site and I do not agree with the de-coding. I have my stock ( 91 T) E153 differential in front of me. It is NOT LSD It has 4 (four) Pinions The de-coding misses something here. The www page should be corrected Matti. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 21:21:35 +1100 From: Thomas To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: LSD for Corolla GTV AE86 I own a 198? Corolla Levin GTV (4AGE) which was brought over from Japan. Unfortunately it didn't come with the LSD option. To get one from Toyota or TRD would cost an arm and a leg...which I can't afford. I heard that a LSD of a certain Mazda light commercial vehicle would fit into the 6.7" Toyota diff and also works better than the Toyota/TRD LSD simply because it doesn't 'bite' so abruptly. Thanks. thomas@websurf.net.au xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 13:06:45 +0200 To: "Erik Berg" From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: rear gears Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Reply to: RE>>rear gears > >Bert wrote>> I heard you need to properly align the gears? Anybody? > >Brian wrote> Yes you have to set up the gears correctly. Mainly to assure >>correct gear contact patch in both power & coast modes. - each >>vehicle is slightly different in the method - most require a 'crush sleeve' and >>shims to set up. > >I don't have first hand experience, but I've been told that a diff with miles on it should be set up with the contact patches close to how it was running originally, otherwise it may start to howl. > >Could this have something to do with work hardening of the gear faces? If the original mesh was good, they remain quiet and wear free for a LONG time, after run-in. But if you change the set up, the work hardened faces mesh with different geometry, and they can become noisy. (??) >erik.berg@trw.com When there are conical bearings and helical gears involved (helical gears are used for low noise) then pre-loading is required. This is usually done with shims. The instructions for maintenance of the gears/differentials call for the selection of the proper shim. A conical bearing, if pre-loaded lass will develop play and if pre-loaded more will eat into it resulting into noise. The correct pre-loading ensures proper sit of the bearing, and noise free operation. When I opened my transaxle, I realized that the stock pre-loading was more than the spec called for and the bearings had scratched which was the reason for the noise of the differential. The book called for a shim one number less than the one already installed, but in my case, to be within specs, it took two numbers less to the one installed. Now my differential works fine with no noise at all. The input gearshaft on the gearbox does not require pre-loading as there are no conical bearings. It is the output shaft that does so as well as the differential for both have conical bearings. The gearbox has also to be adjusted for proper spacing of the gears done with shims. regards Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 07:11:31 -0400 From: "ROGERS" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: New Model Turbo Starlet Here's a photo of a new model (1996?) Turbo charged 1.3L starlet going through it's paces. http://www.sunbeach.net/clubs/rally/Profiles/rog_marshall.html Roger Smith xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 07:31:52 -0400 To: Daucott@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MK1 Head Removal >Pulling off the head wasn't really very hard, but there are lots of little >parts to remove. I did as Steve B. recommended and followed the "green book" >to the letter. It took me 7 hours to complete the removal of the head and >all associated disassembly. I found the following: Damned good for the first time - and even us pros take longer the first time! I think the factory 'standard hours' for removal and installation (but not *work* on the cylinder head) is 11 hours. If you're 3 hours off, that's darn good. >All in all not too bad an operation. My only bitch was the 200 ft-lbs of >torque someone put on the crank pully nut!!! Nothing short of a 3 foot pipe >wrench would hold it still so I could use a 4 foot cheater to get the nut off >(BMFPW, we call it). I suppose the SST would have worked, but who has time >to go buy that? There was also about 100 ft-lbs torque on the cam gear >bolts, and I nearly stripped one getting it off (near panic set in). I had >to use 3 foot cheaters on this... The moral here is torque everything to the >manufacturer's specs... the folks before me probably just applied the impact >wrench set on full torque. This added about an hour to my time. Like, you always could have borrowed my SST set. :) >Now to get the head checked for warp and have a valve job done, then start >putting her back together. With any luck I'll be on the autocross track next >weekend (with some sexy new cams (thanks CAP).... :):):) ) Seriously jelous! I e-mailed Chris about cams for the Mk II Turbo, but he has a lot on his plate gith now, and research will take a few weeks. I was wondering how you were going to justify doing the work on the head- crappy way to justify, but the ends justify the means? Makes you wonder what kind of rebuild they did, doesn't it! Thanks for the info, though. If/when I change my cams, may I have as much luck the first time taking apart my 3S-GTE engine! Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 07:32:19 -0400 To: Paul Pyyvaara , From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: Undoing crank pulley nuts... >On Thu, 15 Aug 1996, Christopher P. Myer wrote: > >> Well, actually, they probably torqued it correctly and it just locked up. >> Happens all the time. When I found an 18R block for my 18RG, I finally gave >> up on getting the crank pulley off. I had the luxury of having the block >> out and fulley accessable and still couldn't get it off. We tried >>everything, >> cheater bars, impact wrenches, everything. What you finally have to do is >> use a chisel and a really big hammer. You apply the chisel to the edge of > >Another trick is to use the starter before undoing anything :) Big socket >with handle against the ground and a quick cracnk will usually undo it for >you... Or, you can use the SSTs, a *very* high quality socket, and lot's of tourque. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 07:49:30 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Roll Cage for MKI MR2 Hello everyone. I'm still working out what my MR2's new mission in life is going to be and I've come up with more questions. 1) Does anyone know of some roll cage manufacturers (Autopower, etc.) who make cages for the MKI MR2? 2) Any idea on cost? 3) How streetable will the car be with a cage, i.e. can I still leave the trim panels in, rearview mirror, etc.? I know IT rules require the door trim, so I assume this is not a problem. However, I think the instrument panel will have to be cut. 4) What cages have you folks had success with? Again, please respond to me directly via e-mail. Thanks! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 - help me decide its future! Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 07:49:30 EDT From: "Christopher T. Berchin USAET(UTC -04:00)" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Roll Cage for MKI MR2 Hello everyone. I'm still working out what my MR2's new mission in life is going to be and I've come up with more questions. 1) Does anyone know of some roll cage manufacturers (Autopower, etc.) who make cages for the MKI MR2? 2) Any idea on cost? 3) How streetable will the car be with a cage, i.e. can I still leave the trim panels in, rearview mirror, etc.? I know IT rules require the door trim, so I assume this is not a problem. However, I think the instrument panel will have to be cut. 4) What cages have you folks had success with? Again, please respond to me directly via e-mail. Thanks! Christopher T. Berchin 1988 MR2 - help me decide its future! Internet: cberchin.ford@e-mail.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 14:36:03 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: air ducting mods Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I am about to re-work my input air piping on my MR2. The pipes that came along with the Greddy intercooler do not satisfy either my taste or my idea of good quality and craftsmanship. So I am looking into thin skin stainless steel tubing or alu to re-do them. In this respect I will probably combine the tubes and the bends (Greddy has them separate attached with rubber fittings...) into one tube. Now there is a question. The Greddy tubing is a two inch (internal diameter) and the bends are even smaller due to their alu caste nature. The throttle input is much larger, but the intercooler input/output is also 2 inches. Should one stick to the 2" pipes or is it better to do them a bit larger. The stock pipe from intercooler to throttle starts from 2" but gradually widens to match the throttle input diameter. That I cannot do, but I think that keeping the 2" diameter would not change the air speed, where making the diameter larger would create a buffer tank that would help the engine at high revs to avoid oscillations of the charged input air. Probably the pipe from the SC to the intercooler can stay the same diameter (2"). Can anyone advise????? Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 13:21:01 -0500 To: "ROGERS" From: "Ronald C. Thompson" Subject: Re: New Model Turbo Starlet Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Sorry Roger.. This is about an 89/90 model. The 90-95(?) model looks SIGNIFICANTLY different from that one.. Does anyone have any info about the new models? I have been searching for quite a while but it's almost like the net has heard NOTHING about this car! At 07:11 AM 8/16/96 -0400, ROGERS wrote: : :Here's a photo of a new model (1996?) Turbo charged 1.3L starlet going through :it's paces. : :http://www.sunbeach.net/clubs/rally/Profiles/rog_marshall.html : :Roger Smith : --- ''' (o o) ------------------------------------------ooO--(_)--Ooo---------- Ronald C. Thompson (ronald@toj.com) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Fri, 16 Aug 96 12:32:04 CST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Subject: MGoyota Here is a page which details the installation of a Toyota T engine into an MG midget body. http://www.team.net/www/mg/tech/midget/engswapa.html __ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: LSD for MKIITurbo? To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos) Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 00:20:36 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > I checked Matti's WWW site and I do not agree with the de-coding. > > I have my stock ( 91 T) E153 differential in front of me. > > It is NOT LSD > > It has 4 (four) Pinions > > The de-coding misses something here. The www page should be corrected Matti. I didn't write the article as you can see from the headers I left there. Even the example given is clearly wrong. Sorry about that, I should have checked it. But I don't have the "secret decoder ring" so I can't correct it. I can't even find the correct gear ratios for S54 or E153 on that list, so it may well only apply to separate differentials, not ones with transaxles. I'm now actually quite sure this is the case. Many common transaxle diff gear ratios are not in there, but the other ones are. Thanks for pointing out the error. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: "MR2 Digest (Normal)" , Subject: RE: Mk II MR2: 3S-GTE oil filter change *again*? Date: Fri, 16 Aug 96 18:05:00 PDT Steve, not sure which filter you have by the FO number but I can give you the new number. I happen to be the owner of one of the Fast moving parts catalog (1995) and the one for your 91 turbo is 90915-10002. I spoke with my dealer not to long ago and they have redone most of their filter line to have a more universal fit more cars instead of a thousand different types. Glenn Dysart dysart@pentagon-inet.army.mil 93 MR2 turbo 87 Corolla SR5 ---------- >Did I get an old/new batch, is the filter changing again, or did the dealer >have some *old* stock lying around? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 21:30:22 -0700 From: Luis Pagan To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods name : Luis Pagan location : Juncos PR model : 1987 Supra Turbo Engine : 7MGTE Mods : K&N FIPK, Ultra Flow exhaust email : ashleyp@mail.concentric.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 00:34:25 EST Subject: Problem with a BMW Hi all, didn't get a bad reaction from the last joke so here's another one :) A yuppie opened the door of his BMW, when suddenly a car came along and hit the door, ripping it off completely. When the police arrived at the scene, the yuppie was complaining bitterly about the damage to his precious BMW. "Officer, look what they've done to my Beeeeemer!!!", he whined. "You yuppies are so materialistic, you make me sick!!!", retorted the officer. "You're so worried about your stupid BMW, that you didn't even notice that your left arm was ripped off!!!" "Oh my gaaawd...," replied the yuppie, finally noticing the bloody left shoulder where his arm once was, "Where's my Rolex?!!!!!" Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 K&N Air Filter Eibach Springs Koni Sport Adjustable Shocks _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 23:38:04 -0600 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mbedford@indiana.edu (Monte Bedford) Subject: question on LSD code T-M, Since there is doubt that the secret decoder ring (Matti's home page) has the true secret on axles and transmissions, can anyone shed light on the code secret? Secondly, does the axle code T283, which I found on a local Corolla GTS (AE86), have LSD or not? If so, I can easily pick one up for $500. I had been planning to buy it with the understanding that it must be limited slip. Thank you. Monte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 23:19:33 -0700 Subject: Bogus Blow-off Valves To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Ok, aside from my obvious defection to a "Non-yota" type vehicle, here's something that you turbo owners may not be aware of. Nippon Denso blow-off valves likely offer questionable performance. I'm not sure how much this applies to Toyotas, but it's a compelling reason to test the performance of the blow-off valve in your car. I say this after having run back to back comparisons on my Isuzu with the valve fully operational vs. blocked off. Stock boost pressure was running a peak of about 7psi, but after installing a bleeder+restrictor, I was only able to get a max boost of 9psi. Even for the small turbo in my Isuzu this didn't seem like it should have been the upper limit. It turns out it isn't. After having removed the blow-off valve (for other reasons) and blocking off the piping, with the aforementioned boost mods in place, I was getting well over 15psi of boost at one point. A bit more than I wanted, but back to the point . . . It's obvious that the valve was venting off pressure at all times regardless of throttle position. Upon close inspection, I'm confident it's operating the way it was designed to operate - POORLY! There are visible gaps through the unit when it's fully closed. Now I know the blow-off valve on the MR2 Turbo is a higher quality unit compared to the cheezy piece of plastic Isuzu blessed my Impulse with, but I have to wonder if it's not a weak point on the MR2 or other stock Turbos as well. I hope that a good aftermarket unit will cure this. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 08:04:23 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Wastegates, Blowoff-valves, and Bypasses Kip's question about his blow-off valve has prompted me to start a thread on turbo- charging. I'm reading the book "Turbochargers" by Hugh MacInnes, and within the first 100 pages now know more about turbocharging than 95% of the automotive world. Gang, there's TONS of misinformation going around about turbochargers and this book provides the knowledge to dispel the bad info. Retail price is $15.95, I think I sell it for $14.00 or something like that (not in the CAP office at the moment.) Anyway, on the subject of this email, I'd always wondered what the difference was between wastegates, blowoff-valves, and bypasses. Mr. MacInnes groups all of these devices into one section called "controls". He furthermore breaks controls down into 1.) those that limit turbocharger speed and 2.) Those that limit compressor-outlet pressure, or boost. The first prevent the turbo from destroying itself, the second prevents the turbo from destroying the engine. I'm still a little confused by the next part, mostly, I think, because the aftermarket industry has been inconsistent in the use of the terms wastegate, blowoff-valve, and bypasses. Based on my newfound knowledge, the term bypass can be used to describe either a wastegate or a blowoff valve. The difference, in my understanding, between a wastegate and a blowoff is where the bypassed pressure goes. A blowoff simply vents the pressure to the atmosphere, whereas the wastegate returns the pressure to another point downstream, past the turbocharger. From this you can see that the term wastegate will only apply to the exhaust side of the system (I'll let you think about that one a while) whereas the blowoff can be either before the compressor (intake) side of the turbo or before the turbine (exhaust) side. A blowoff valve is a very simple device. It is not intended to be a boost adjustment device, typically, but rather a safety valve. It is simply a poppet or flapper that is held in place with a spring. It has no actuating device--when the pressure exceeds the spring's ability to hold the valve shut, the pressure is vented to the atmosphere. The waste gate, on the otherhand, is controlled in some way. The method of control can be very simple, such as a tube that pressurizes a diaphragm that opens the wastegate (coming from the high-pressure side of the intake.) Modern systems for wastegate control, however, are very complex, and take input from boost pressure, engine speed, knock sensors, ambient air pressure, etc. and use these to precisely control the wastegate. This is the way that boost is intended to be properly controlled. I've droned on long enough for now, but I did want to comment on Kip's problem. He mentioned that his wastegate (was it the wastegate?) never completely shut. This sounds like a part-throttle-open (PTO) wastegate. This is, actually, the best type of wastegate, in my opinion. They have many advantages, including reduced backpressure at partial throttle (better fuel economy) and lower turbo speed at cruise (lower fuel air temperatures and combustion temperatures, less chance of detonation.) I would love to start a thread, or maybe even a separate mailing list, dedicated to turbocharging. If we started a mailing list, I would have to insist that the members either get this book (from any source, of course) and read it, or have a very strong knowledge of turbocharging. The reason for my insistance is that we would quickly be consumed by answering the same question ("how can I increase the boost on my ") rather than really intensely studying this incredible subject. I am convinced, after reading this book, that turbocharging is absolutely the single best performance mod that can be done to your car. If your car already is turbocharged, you need this knowledge even more to know how to wisely upgrade your car. As always, looking forward to your comments/feedback... Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 08:07:59 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Bogus Blow-off Valves In my last email, I said that Kip may have a PTO wastegate. After re-reading his email it is fairly obvious that he has, as he thought, a dysfunctional blow-off valve. It is wise to correct this situation, as it could lead to many different problems, including compressor overspeeding, which could destroy the turbo. Sorry for the confusion. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 09:34:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Bogus Blow-off Valves/Subscribe To: Chris Myer , On Sat, 17 Aug 1996, Chris Myer wrote: >In my last email, I said that Kip may have a PTO wastegate. After re-reading his email >it is fairly obvious that he has, as he thought, a dysfunctional blow-off valve. It >is wise to correct this situation, as it could lead to many different problems, including >compressor overspeeding, which could destroy the turbo. You are correct sir! Yup, although I didn't explicitly say it, overspeeding is one of the issues upon which my concern was based. The other concerns are the wasted energy, turbo-lag, and excessive heat. I'd guess that with the faulty valve and wastegate restrictor/bleeder arrangement in place, I was forcing the turbo to produce well over 15 psi to net a manifold boost pressure of less than 10psi. (It's a very small turbo and not likely designed to handle more than about 12psi.) I have completely blocked off the valve until I can get a suitable replacement, and have removed my restrictor/bleeder arrangement. Now I'm getting a healthy 10psi (about a 3psi increase) with an otherwise stock system. The benefits of this are three-fold: 1. The obvious increase in boost pressure. 2. The reduced load on the turbo means that it doesn't have to spin as fast, reducing the generation of excessive heat. 3. Lag has been greatly reduced. I'm also guessing by the "Seat-o-the-pantsometer" that this single change has netted at least a 25hp increase. And finally, yeah a turbocharging list is a great idea! I know there are some real boost junkies out there that don't own Toyotas and don't have any sort of list devoted to their cars (Insert my name here). Subscribe Turbochargers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 15:00:08 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Wastegates, Blowoff-valves, and Bypasses On Sat, 17 Aug 1996, Chris Myer wrote: > I'm still a little confused by the next part, mostly, I think, because the > aftermarket industry has been inconsistent in the use of the terms wastegate, > blowoff-valve, and bypasses. Based on my newfound knowledge, the term bypass > can be used to describe either a wastegate or a blowoff valve. The difference, > in my understanding, between a wastegate and a blowoff is where the bypassed > pressure goes. A blowoff simply vents the pressure to the atmosphere, whereas > the wastegate returns the pressure to another point downstream, past the > turbocharger. From this you can see that the term wastegate will only apply > to the exhaust side of the system (I'll let you think about that one a while) > whereas the blowoff can be either before the compressor (intake) side of the > turbo or before the turbine (exhaust) side. > A blowoff valve is a very simple device. It is not intended to be a boost > adjustment device, typically, but rather a safety valve. It is simply a > poppet or flapper that is held in place with a spring. It has no actuating > device--when the pressure exceeds the spring's ability to hold the valve > shut, the pressure is vented to the atmosphere. > The waste gate, on the otherhand, is controlled in some way. The method of > control can be very simple, such as a tube that pressurizes a diaphragm that > opens the wastegate (coming from the high-pressure side of the intake.) Modern > systems for wastegate control, however, are very complex, and take input from > boost pressure, engine speed, knock sensors, ambient air pressure, etc. and > use these to precisely control the wastegate. This is the way that boost is > intended to be properly controlled. > Chris A wastegate is intended to limit boost produced by a turbocharger by releasing exhaust gasses, which were originally directed into the turbo, out to the downpipe and out the exhaust. In the applications I'm familiar with, the wastegate is actuated by a pressure line off the intake manifold. The wastegate is preset to a certain level where it will start to open. Most wastegates do not simply pop open at a certain boost level, they open gradually until max boost where they are fully opened. (on a side note, if a wastegate isn't big enough, you can still overboost if you have a highly modified turbo with a stock wastegate.) A boost controller, whether electronic or manual, allows more boost than the stock wastegate is preset to by venting some of the pressure from the line (the one leading from the intake manifold to the wastegate actuator) either to atmosphere (sloppy) or back into the intake after the air filter and after the air flow sensor (or mass air sensor depending on your engine, again, I'm talking Toyotas here as my knowledge of other turbocharged engines is limited, the concepts are still valid tho.) An example (and this is not how it really works, but it gets the point across): Your stock wastegate opens fully at 7psi. You want to run 12psi. So your boost valve will have to bleed off 5psi at 12psi boost so that the wastegate only sees 7psi and opens at that point. (Am I making sense?) Of course if you bleed off 5psi all the time (you can't really bleed off a certain psi you bleed off a certain flow which has the affect of lowering the psi the wastegate sees, but I don't wanna get into the physics of it really. Someone else can) then at 5psi your wastegate would see 0psi and stay closed tight; at 10psi it would see 5psi and be partly opened, etc. This is roughly how a manual "aquarium valve" or HKS VBC works. Sloppy, but it works. An electronic boost controller (HKS EVC or GReddy PRofec etc) will hold the wastegate closed as long as possible by restricting the line from the intake manifold completely so the wastegate sees almost 0psi all the time until the controller reaches it's set limit at which point it lets up on the restriction which opens the wastegate enough to vent off ONLY as much as is necessary to maintain the boost level it is set to. Well, this is what they'd like it to do anyhow. In reality it comes close. A blow off valve, also known as a compressor bypass valve (CBV), has a different purpose altogether. Lets say you floor it, boost climbs, accelerating hard on a sunday afternoon when all the sudden someone gets in your way and you have to slow down. You let off the gas fast and hard. Inside your intake manifold there's some 12psi of boost already built up. But you let off the gas and the throttle plate slams shut. All that pressurized air (which has been measured by the air flow meter by the way) is rejected(!) and turns around and tries to go BACK THROUGH THE TURBO! Wrong way! Do Not Enter! OUCH! The turbo will usually make a fluttering noise as shock waves of air going the wrong way through the turbine still things up as the exhaust tries to keep the turbine spinning the same way. That poor shaft takes most of the abuse and will eventually bend, twist or break. Here's where a blow off valve comes in. The blow off valve sits between the turbo and the intake manifold (usually close to the turbo) and is a vacuum actuated valve. One side goes between the intake manifold and the turbo and the other goes to the intake side of the turbo after the filter and air flow meter (this air has already been measured!) The vacuum actuated valve opens at high engine vacuum, such as deceleration or idle (don't care at idle really, but it's a side effect). When open the presurized intake air now has a path to escape without damaging the turbo. A side effect of this is the air is now speeding up the turbo, kinda nice for during shifts, it helps keep the turbo spooled up. Some aftermarket blow off valves do just that, blow the excess boost off to atmosphere. Makes a cool sound, but it's not really a great idea. I'm sure there's some use for it tho. (another little note, most stock blow off valves aren't very big, and leak, so they're not very effective, and they cause the turbo to have to work harder to achieve the same boost.) Also, your comment about "modern boost control systems". I consider the 7MGTE to be quite advanced, and yet it just uses a simple actuator feed off the high pressure side of the intake. I am 99% sure the JZA-80 is the same way (the twin turbo system from the Mk4 supras) but with two wastegates. The ECU in a 7MGTE (again this is the engine I'm most familiar with, but a lot of it is typical of toyota distributorless engines) reads input from knock sensors, ambient temp etc and uses that info to retard timing in a situation where the engine might run lean and knock. The boost is unchanged however. Hope this helps. Terminology can be a problem at times. People start confusing one thing for another. - Mike p.s. I'm open to flames if I said something wrong. Don't hesitate to tell me if something I consider fact is wrong. -- Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623 I live with fear and danger everyday. But occasionally I leave Her and go racing. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: question on LSD code To: mbedford@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Monte Bedford) Date: Sun, 18 Aug 1996 00:07:31 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > T-M, > > Since there is doubt that the secret decoder ring (Matti's home page) has > the true secret on axles and transmissions, can anyone shed light on the > code secret? > > Secondly, does the axle code T283, which I found on a local Corolla GTS > (AE86), have LSD or not? If so, I can easily pick one up for $500. I had > been planning to buy it with the understanding that it must be limited > slip. Well the decoding table seems to give believable results on this one: 6.7", 4.3:1, 2 pinions and LSD! -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: question on LSD code To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos) Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 00:48:26 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > >> Since there is doubt that the secret decoder ring (Matti's home page) has > >> the true secret on axles and transmissions, can anyone shed light on the > >> code secret? > >> > >> Secondly, does the axle code T283, which I found on a local Corolla GTS > >> (AE86), have LSD or not? If so, I can easily pick one up for $500. I had > >> been planning to buy it with the understanding that it must be limited > >> slip. > > > >Well the decoding table seems to give believable results on this one: > >6.7", 4.3:1, 2 pinions and LSD! > > > > Matti I have NEVER seen an LSD with TWO pinions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Two pinions systems are low torque set-ups for up to 120 - 140 HP power levels. Ok, there must be a few dozen people on this list with Corolla GT's, speak up and tell us what's the truth about T283. I don't know what your definition is for low torque, but I'd say the 4A-GE qualifies with mere 100ftlbs or so... and the RWD models didn't have more than 125hp stock. -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: , Subject: Re: 6.7 inch LSD Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 15:27:33 +1000 I'd have to disagree here as i have a LSD from a sprinter rear end which has been rebuilt and hasn't given up on me yet. It locks up just fine, so well in fact that if one wheel is in the dirt and one on the tar the car either bogs down or both wheels break lose. When you reverse you even get that characteristic chirping of the tyres from a really tight or locked diff. This diff survived my 180 hp 18rg and to date has survived my now 180 + hp turbo 18rg, both on and off the track. As for performance gains, i would describe them as substantial. The rear end tracks beautifully now and any tendency to understeer was removed by only playing around with tyre pressures. Just goes to show what works for one car doesn't mean it will work for yours. I am very happy with the results the LSD produced and i would strongly reccomend one to any Celica driver. Cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: 6.7 inch LSD > Date: Tuesday, August 20, 1996 5:24 > > To the list, > I see talk in these pages of the 6.7 inch LSD's. I have had both a Toyota > and TRD one. People seem to talk like they are desirable, before you buy > think again! The Toyota LSD is so weak just dont bother if you have any > more than standard HP and even then it wont last. They dont lock up properly > at any HP even if you shim them up. My last attempt resulted in breaking > ALL the gears! > The TRD unit is really a locker, you cant get breakaway at 150BHP and it > causes massive understeer on non slick or non 'R' series tyres. You can > take two of the 6 plates out but it doesnt help much. Chris tells me > clutch plates are now unavailable. On a dry track with and without LSD I > could not pick a difference in lap time, the understeer induced cancels the > extra acceleration out of the corners. All this presupposes you have the > spring rates so that that inside rear wheel doesnt lift off. > Bruce > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 00:50:29 +1100 From: Thomas To: Toyota-Mods Subject: My Details. Name : Thomas Ng Location : Melbourne, Australia Model : 1986 Toyota Corolla GTV (Levin) Engine : 4AGE Mods : UniFilter air filter, Stage 1 Race Suspension, Supertrapp sports muffler, 4pt roll cage. thomas@websurf.net.au xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 08:47:53 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com So what kind of blow-off valves are people using on their MR2 Turbos? What about in conjuction with a Greddy Profec? _____________________________ Reply Separator _____________________________ Subject: Bogus Blow-off Valves Author: kca@interserv.com at SMTP Date: 08/17/1996 1:34 AM To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Milling Head Hi again! Just a quick question for those of you who had your overhead cam head milled due to warp or desire for higher compression: Did you experience any difficulty or effect from the inherant change of cam timing? Milling the head will lessen the distance from the crank pulley to the cam pulleys, effectively changing the cam timing. Adjustable cam gears would take care of this, but currently I don't have them. Also, I've heard recommendations of 0.020" and 0.040" for the amount to take off (assuming the head is not warped any worse than this). Is there a limit to the amount? Usually I'd remove only what was necessary, but I thought I'd ask. Thanks for any replys... Dave A. 1986 MR2 undergoing repair xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 11:38:16 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: higashi@agames.com (gene higashi) About a year and a half ago, I was looking for a LSD for my 84 Celica GTS. I called TRD and was told that they were no longer being made, and that I couldn't even order an old stock item. I was just wondering what year Celica you have and where and when you guys got yours. Thanks, Gene I'd have to disagree here as i have a LSD from a sprinter rear end which has been rebuilt and hasn't given up on me yet. It locks up just fine, so well in fact that if one wheel is in the dirt and one on the tar the car either bogs down or both wheels break lose. When you reverse you even get that characteristic chirping of the tyres from a really tight or locked diff. This diff survived my 180 hp 18rg and to date has survived my now 180 + hp turbo 18rg, both on and off the track. As for performance gains, i would describe them as substantial. The rear end tracks beautifully now and any tendency to understeer was removed by only playing around with tyre pressures. Just goes to show what works for one car doesn't mean it will work for yours. I am very happy with the results the LSD produced and i would strongly reccomend one to any Celica driver. Cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: bconnelly@VNET.IBM.COM > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: 6.7 inch LSD > Date: Tuesday, August 20, 1996 5:24 > > To the list, > I see talk in these pages of the 6.7 inch LSD's. I have had both a Toyota > and TRD one. People seem to talk like they are desirable, before you buy > think again! The Toyota LSD is so weak just dont bother if you have any > more than standard HP and even then it wont last. They dont lock up properly > at any HP even if you shim them up. My last attempt resulted in breaking > ALL the gears! > The TRD unit is really a locker, you cant get breakaway at 150BHP and it > causes massive understeer on non slick or non 'R' series tyres. You can > take two of the 6 plates out but it doesnt help much. Chris tells me > clutch plates are now unavailable. On a dry track with and without LSD I > could not pick a difference in lap time, the understeer induced cancels the > extra acceleration out of the corners. All this presupposes you have the > spring rates so that that inside rear wheel doesnt lift off. > Bruce > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 14:24:32 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 6.7 inch LSD To the list, I see talk in these pages of the 6.7 inch LSD's. I have had both a Toyota and TRD one. People seem to talk like they are desirable, before you buy think again! The Toyota LSD is so weak just dont bother if you have any more than standard HP and even then it wont last. They dont lock up properly at any HP even if you shim them up. My last attempt resulted in breaking ALL the gears! The TRD unit is really a locker, you cant get breakaway at 150BHP and it causes massive understeer on non slick or non 'R' series tyres. You can take two of the 6 plates out but it doesnt help much. Chris tells me clutch plates are now unavailable. On a dry track with and without LSD I could not pick a difference in lap time, the understeer induced cancels the extra acceleration out of the corners. All this presupposes you have the spring rates so that that inside rear wheel doesnt lift off. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 17:04 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: supercharger/turbo for 20r I have a 20r I would like to supercharge or turbocharge and I just can seem to find a way to do it. I was going to use a procharger p600 but I was told that I couldn't be done. I am willing to try almost anything, but money is a concern. How could I blow through dual webers? SOme sort of pressure box has to be fabricated? Right? Where and who could do this for me? I remember someone talking about turbocharging a 20r by using the setup off a 20r pickup. Whoever wrote about this, I would appreciate info. Would I use the pickup exhaust manifold or could someone produce a more efficient one? I am looking for a turbo/supercharger mor efficient than stock, maybe up to 15-17 psi. Well, finding the turboor supercharger is not going to be as hard as mounting it or blowing through the carbs. ANy advice??? I am in crisis, Help!! Bert Kellerman 77 celica - trying to be forcefully aspirated xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 17:08 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: 20r turbo/supercharged Hello I wrote earlier about blowing through dual webers. Would it be as efficient if I just through on a 500 cfm holley and blew threw that with the procharger? what would be the loss or how great of a loss would there be in blowing through a 500 cfm holley and blowing through dual webers? I CAN say something, the holley sounds like it's a hell of a lot cheaper! I am however looking for pretty good performance. Help Again!!!! bert 77celica 20r xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 17:12 EDT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Bert Kellerman Subject: forced 20r part III Oh yeah... If i did blow through the holley , what type of plumbing should I use to extend the procharger outlet hose to the carb? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 16:33:33 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 6.7 inch LSD Justen, I have a TA22 and AE86 factory LSD pack, I broke them both! It was a shame because the TA22 really DOES need an LSD because the mounting point of the panhard rod makes the car pick up the rear wheel in a hard corner. It also makes the car less 'taily'. The AE86's are different, they are very well balanced and the panhard rod is near horizontal. The facts are that you shouldn't in a ideal world need an LSD. Your wheels back wheels should both have near equal grip. On a dry day in a balanced car with good wheel travel it all works ok, but in other conditions the LSD may be vital. Thats the problem, too many people think they need LSD packs to fix what are suspention problems usually related to picking up the inside rear wheel. Sometimes, like with the early cars or the MK 1 MR2 it just cant be fixed so an LSD pack helps, but lets try other things first. I also find it hard to believe that you got that much traction from the two pinion unit. When I shimmed it to over 100 ftlbs breakaway it eventually cracked the housing. I had 185 BHP at the time from the 3TG. Also do you know that there are DIFFERENT factory 6.7 inch units! Mine were 1974 TA22 and 1985 AE86. My TRD LSD is 1987 (Big axle) type. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: your mail To: higashi@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (gene higashi) Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 00:38:26 +0300 (EET DST) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Toyota-Mods mailing list) > About a year and a half ago, I was looking for a LSD for my 84 Celica GTS. > I called TRD and was told that they were no longer being made, and that I > couldn't even order an old stock item. I was just wondering what year > Celica you have and where and when you guys got yours. > Thanks, > Gene You can use the 82-86 Celica Supra LSD (the whole diff), some of the mounting bolts may be at a different place but it's no problem. Works for me... -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: JSBIHN@aol.com Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 17:57:58 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: hi i would like to get on this mailing list. i would like to know how you go about doing this. if you could please e-mail me back and let me know how to do this, i would appreciate it. jb xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 19 Aug 1996 18:27:18 -0400 From: "Bruce Touzel" Subject: me/mine/mods To: "Toyota mods" Subject: Time:6:21 PM OFFICE MEMO me/mine/mods Date:8/19/96 Name : Bruce Touzel Location : Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Model : 1986 Corolla GTS, Black, low rust, happy with it Engine : 4AEG ? 16valve DOHC Mods : interested email : bruce_touzel@qmail.newbridge.com are we allowed to ask questions about advice on mods ? > after exhaust went, I switched to Midas muffler but its not the same as the one I had, do you recommend going back to stock for better performance ? > more to follow xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota-mods Subject: Full throttle at half throttle Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 18:32:10 -0500 From: Stephen Wan -- [ From: Stephen Wan * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- Since I hooked up a voltmeter to my oxygen sensor, I noticed something peculiar. When cruising oh the highway, I see the usual crosscounts, but when I accelerate to half throttle the voltmeter shows a consistent .78 to . 81(varies each time). I assume the computer went to an open loop, but I thought this only happens at full throttle. It gets stranger still. I also timed my 0-60 runs at half throttle and at full throttle. The resulting times are very similar(maybe .5 diff)and are consistent with published numbers. The seat-of-my pants meter reads that the car pulls the same whether at half or at full. The only difference is the increased noise. I checked the throttle position sensor according to the factory manual and it checks out. I can't understand why I get full throttle when the throttle plate is half closed(half open to you optimists). I've also adjusted the air flow meter, but ended up just a hair off stock reference. I did this because I noticed I was getting .6 at full throttle. I noticed I turned it too rich when my voltmeter shows a consistent number above 45 instead of cross counts. The check engine light also turned on after 5min of cruising like this. I let off the throttle to let the O-sensor drop its voltage and the light turns off. It took me a while to get it to show .8 at full throttle and still cross count while cruising. I hope this info is useful to someone, and if anyone has any ideas about my throttle problem(?), enlighten me. Thanks. -- Stephen W ________________________________________ I looked in my pocket and found nothing. In nothing, I found REALITY....Anonymous ________________________________________ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 18:40:24 EST Subject: MK1 Sound system Addressed to: MR2 Digest Toyota mods I wasn't going to do this but since I'm proud of the system, here it is. My sound system consists of Dynaudio system 220 speakers (6" midrange and tweeter combination), an Adcom GFA-4402 amp, and a Kenwood head unit (no changer; prefer changing discs in the car). My intent was to get clean music not head turning volume. The clarity and detail of this system has to be heard to be beleived. The 6" speaker was installed in the front dash (yes 6" in the dash!). A professional car installer and I worked on the car for a day to fit the system. The only restriction I gave him was that the car had to look original if/when I was to sell it. The Dynaudio 6" speaker is the mother of all speakers. The basket on it is huge. We used a small electric metal saw of some kind to cut away all the metal under the vinyl that held the factory speakers. This allowed the basket to fit into the oval hole. The speaker was secured to the dash with screws through the dash. On the passenger side the speaker had to moved slightly to allow for the glove box to open and close. On the driver side, the instument panel had to be removed first to allow for speaker installation. If/when I sell the car, any holes in the vinyl can be repaired by a vinyl repairer so that they become undetectable. A metal bracket can also be quickly made up to allow for mounting of the original factory speakers and plastic grill. The crossover for the passenger side was stuck to the underside of the dash with double sided tape and is well hidden. There is also one placed behind the plastic cover under the steering wheel of the drivers side. The tweeters were mounted into a small triangular shaped box fitted to the side door mirrors replacing the plastic cover that was originally there. The box is made from sheet metal and is covered in black vinyl. (If I was to do it again, I would probably make the box from fibre glass). The amp is secured to the floor under the passengers seat. It is half ohm stable putting out 40W RMS into 4ohm, 80W RMS into 2ohm and 140W RMS bridged in mono for a 4ohm subwoofer or 200W RMS into 2ohm subwoofer configuration. I am desperate for a good subwoofer at the moment. The only driver I could find that works well in a small enclosure is the Kicker solo-baric. Their 8" driver only requires 9.3litres (0.33 cu ft). I've built a box that fits behind the passenger seat but I'm waiting on the driver to arrive from the states (the local importer has run out of stock). The box has also been covered in black carpet and looks just like a factory box. I've had a couple of suggestions already regarding the sub-woofer but if anyone knows other drivers/boxes etc I'd appreciate the advice. I am also considering replacing the rear 3" speakers with some Kicker 3.5" midrange speakers wired up to the amp. This would have a two fold effect. Firstly I could load up the amp get more volume, secondly I could increase the depth of the sound stage with these rear fill in speakers. If anyone has some suggestions here I would also appreciate them. I am also considering putting some sound damping material under the carpet behind the seats. This should allow a reduction of engine noise to enter the cabin. Any recommendations here would also be good. Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 K&N Air Filter Eibach Springs Koni Sport Adjustable Shocks _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 22:32:56 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig A Terlau To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Lambda sensor When installing an exhaust header on a Toyota with EFI, where is the best place to mount the Lambda sensor? If the header is a 4-2-1 design, do you want to place the sensor the same distance from the manifold gasket surface as stock in one of the primary tubes, at the junction of a pair of primary tubes, or at the junction of all the tubes? Thanks, Craig. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota-mods Subject: Re: Lambda sensor Date: Mon, 19 Aug 96 23:44:11 -0500 From: Stephen Wan -- [ From: Stephen Wan * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- > Date: Monday, 19-Aug-96 10:32 PM > > From: Craig A Terlau \ Internet: (terlau@csd.uwm.edu) > To: Toyota-Mods \ Internet: > (toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com) > > Subject: Lambda sensor > > When installing an exhaust header on a Toyota with EFI, where is the best > place to mount the Lambda sensor? snip' > Thanks, Craig. > -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- My guess would be the same distance as in the stock manifold. Since the the exhaust temp keeps it heated, putting it too close would shorten the life from overheating, too far, and it doesn't stay hot enough to give a proper reading. Assuming that the headers don't dissipate more heat from the exhaust gas than the stock manifold, the optimal distance would be the same. I'm not well versed in thermodynamics or metallurgy, but its safe to assume that if the original holds more heat, than the optimal location would be closer for the headers. And vice versa. This is only a logical assumtion, so correct me if I'm wrong. Perhaps the difference is so minimal that the original location is best and safest. -- Stephen W ________________________________________ I looked in my pocket and found nothing. In nothing, I found REALITY....Anonymous ________________________________________ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 16:14:02 +1000 To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: air ducting mods Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Kostas, >I am about to re-work my input air piping on my MR2. The pipes that came >same diameter (2"). > I'd keep them all the same size as much as possible, for the reasons that you descibed. FWIW, I believe that when a bend must be made, the best shape of the pipe is slightly oval, ie, as the pipe starts to bend, it gets shorter but wider whilst keeping the same internal area. The reason for this is when going around corners the air will try to move at different speed compared to the 'top' & 'bottom' of the pipe, thus causing unwanted turbulence. (You want a small amount of turbulence, but not _too_ much) By decreasing the _vertical_ size of the pipe you should decrease the amount of differential airflow & thus turbulence. Just a thought. Regards, Bill S. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." Dum volvo, video disco ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 20 Aug 96 02:59:58 EDT From: Alex Pun <75104.2070@compuserve.com> To: MR2 Digest Cc: Toyota Mods Subject: Greddy Profec What are the similarities or differences between the HKS EVCIII and the Greddy Profec? Are they pretty much the same, in terms of performance? I know that the EVC is around $800 or $900 and the Profec is around $400 or $500. If they're the same, it sounds like the Profec would be a better deal. Any advice? Thanks, Alex 1991 MR2 Turbo Yellow xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Charles_Flick_at_ya721@platinum.brooks.af.mil Date: Tue, 20 Aug 96 08:33:22 CST To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Cam wear John Garza sent a message about the short life (3K to 6K miles) he was having with performance cams. This raised a question I don't have an answer to. I don't know how many miles you should expect from a high performance cam. It must be less the standard cam because of the stronger springs and the higher acceleration forces due the higher lift. You would also expect to run an engine with a performance cam at higher RPMs and for more of the time. But I would still expect it to last at least 50K miles. I only have 5K on mine. What are your experiences? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Tue, 20 Aug 96 11:05:05 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 6.7 inch LSD To Kostas and Others, The plate codes are covered in the TRD books of the early 90's. T283 is the common code of the AE86 rear end with SMALL LSD (like the ones that I broke), It is a 4.3 with 2 pinion LSD, it WILL wear the plates with time. As Kostas says there is only one real way to go......TORSEN. Just ask Toyota they have stopped making the clutch type and Torsen is Standard everywhere in MR2 in RAV4 and yes I have driven one in a RAV and yes its good and yes I want one and no I cant afford to swap this $2000 TRD unit that I dont like that needs new clutches that wears out new tyres in two months!! And if your reading this Chris M the TRD number for new clutches is #40107-TA003, are we really to believe we cant get any more? I think we should do a little work and find out how we can get the Torque sensing type diffs for our cars, they seem to be stronger, dont wear out and dont lock up so badly that they may as well be lockers (welded). In fact the TRD unit is so bad you dont ever need a handbrake. Just turn the wheels a few degrees and you cant move it. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 19:28:22 +0200 To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: 6.7 inch LSD Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >To Kostas and Others, >The plate codes are covered in the TRD books of the early 90's. T283 is the >common code of the AE86 rear end with SMALL LSD (like the ones that I broke), >It is a 4.3 with 2 pinion LSD, it WILL wear the plates with time. As Kostas >says there is only one real way to go......TORSEN. Just ask Toyota they have >stopped making the clutch type and Torsen is Standard everywhere in MR2 in RAV4 >and yes I have driven one in a RAV and yes its good and yes I want one and no >I cant afford to swap this $2000 TRD unit that I dont like that needs new >clutches that wears out new tyres in two months!! >And if your reading this Chris M the TRD number for new clutches is >#40107-TA003, are we really to believe we cant get any more? I think we >should do a little work and find out how we can get the Torque sensing type >diffs for our cars, they seem to be stronger, dont wear out and dont lock >up so badly that they may as well be lockers (welded). In fact the TRD >unit is so bad you dont ever need a handbrake. Just turn the wheels a few >degrees and you cant move it. >Bruce > Hi Bruce, I agree with you 100%. Since I have installed a TORSEN type LSD I have a brand new experience in driving. I have installed the QUAIFE unit. It is being built by QUAIFE in England and I have passed the info to MR2.com to be available to all. It not expensive (Br. P. 444) about $700. It is so good that I just placed an order for a spare one!!!! It is built to last a lifetime, uses standard stock differential oil, has NO pinions (works with helical gears), NEVER LOCKS completely and is automatic torque biasing rather than speed locking (all LSD's are speed locking types). They have two types, a small one and a large one. The MR2 MK II T fits their large one. I do not know where the small one fits. Do not ask them either for they do not know. I had to verify the type by providing some characteristic dimensional info. They had in stock the one I ordered, but they have to produce the small one if someone orders it. I do not know if they have more in stock of the MR2 ones, but they can always make them. I have no interest in this company but I highly recommend them. (they accept VISA payment too) Their phone no. in England is: (01732) 741144 where from international it would be ++ 44 1732 741144. Ask for ANDY and tell him Dr.George Chryssos recommended you. I have a GIF I can forward to anyone interested. > Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 20 Aug 1996 10:57:21 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: 6.7 inch LSD To: "toyota mods" Reply to: RE>>6.7 inch LSD Hi All. >there is only one real way to go......TORSEN How does a Torsen actually behave, for a RWD car, with trailing throttle? Does it tend to induce push, or drift? For everyone's information, Quaife LSDs use the same principle of operation as the Torsen. Which makes Quaife an alternate source, if they have the one you need, and if you are willing to pay their $$. > they may as well be lockers (welded) I'm not sure if I understood this comment... If you intended to imply that a locker is the same as a welded-up diff, nope it's not even close. A locker is open for trailing throttle and (sometimes abruptly) locked up with the power on. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 14:32:27 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Forced Air plus Carburetion Keep in mind as you consider this project that there are two kinds of turbo systems--blow through (as Bert mentions) and draw through. In theory, draw- through systems are superior for many reasons. About the only thing to keep in mind is that you never want to put a blow-off valve on the intake side of a draw-through system, at least not one that vents to the atmosphere. It is left as an exercise to the reader to figure out why. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 14:37:18 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: EVCIII vs PRofec While I don't have any side-by-side comparison experience, the majority of folks with whom I have talked who do have such experience have said that the biggest difference between the two units is the price. The EVCIII ATM is very much worth the even greater price tag if you are in an extremely mountaneous area and frequently change altitude, but otherwise, I think you're better off getting the PRofec and saving your money. Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 16:01:00 -0500 To: bconnelly@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: ml36@cornell.edu (Michael H. Leary) Subject: Re: 6.7 inch LSD Bruce wrote: >The TRD unit is really a locker, you cant get breakaway at 150BHP and it >causes massive understeer on non slick or non 'R' series tyres. You can >take two of the 6 plates out but it doesnt help much. Chris tells me >clutch plates are now unavailable. On a dry track with and without LSD I >could not pick a difference in lap time, the understeer induced cancels the >extra acceleration out of the corners. All this presupposes you have the >spring rates so that that inside rear wheel doesnt lift off. What type of track and what kind of tires are you talking about here, bruce? A friend of mine races an 81 Corolla in DSP class in SCCA autocrosses. He tells me that he actually gets less understeer with a freshly-rebuilt LSD than with an old tired one because its so much easier to step the back end out with power on a fresh diff. The rules force him to use the 6.38" diff that came on the car, so he wears them out quickly and rebuilds fairly often. His inside rear doesn't actually lift off the ground, though it does occasionally get light enough to spin when powering out of a tight corner. He's running Hoosier autocross compound tires on 13x10 (if memory serves me right) rims. I guess the point I'm trying to make is that the appropriateness of a particular diff may well depend on the type of racing you do. Its also typical to take a few track sessions to get used to a new setup, so it may be hard to compare back-to-back lap times with and without the LSD. I'm not trying to flame anyone here, I was just hoping to start some discussion of what types of racing situations benefit from what types of slip-limiting characteristics in a diff. Goodness knows I could stand to learn a few things before I commit to tearing apart my old tired diff for a rebuild... -Mike Leary Ithaca NY, USA 87 Corolla GTS xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 18:36:43 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: greencg@gate.net >I'd go easy on fuel modification. There are a lot of pipes around there, >besides just the filler pipe (return, fume control?, etc). >How about designing a box that would suck air straight from the engine >cover vent? >Steve B. >bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) >http://www.rust.net/~bagdon >Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) Workin' On it, thats why I need to get that extra Engine cover!!! Chris Green Greencg@gate.net 87 Mister 2 n/a Black "Those who are willing to sacrifice Freedom in the name of Security deserve neither" Benjamin Franklin. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 09:31:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: FW: Failed Mail To: Toyota Mods [i tried to send this directly to you Kostas, but it bounced] > Their phone no. in England is: (01732) 741144 where from international it > would be ++ 44 1732 741144. Ask for ANDY and tell him Dr.George Chryssos > recommended you. > > I have a GIF I can forward to anyone interested. Is this GIF going to be on the mr2.com article too? I'd be interested in this LSD as it might come in handy for my race car further down the track when I have some more money! : ) thanks Ade xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 11:21:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: MKI Race Car - Progress report To: "'MR2-digest'" , Well, just in case anyone is interested, I thought I'd post how things are going with the race car so far. Here's the background. I found a mkI MR2 that had been in a fire .. .the fire had gone down to about 1/2 a foot above the floor pan. No structural damage except it needed a new roof skin (damaged when they removed it after the fire). The previous owner had bought a new one for it. (I'm the third owner, the first wanted to rally it .. but found he was not allowed to due to cabin size, the second owner just didn't have the time to build it). Ok .. so .. one burnt rusty body shell with most suspension parts, an engine with a singed top. No interior, no glass, no boot lid or spoiler, every plastic/rubber parts melted etc etc. What I needed was a lot of parts to put it back together, so I bought a rolled '87 SC T-Top MR2 .. everything in working order.... just dented body. Perfect : ) And i get an SC engine and bigger SC brakes! : ) I've stripped the rolled car and the shell is now sitting outside under a tarpolin. I spose i'll hang on to it for a while in case i need some metal!! : ) In the mean time, the burnt shell (the race car shell) has been dipped to remove all the rust and paint. It went into a race car preparation place and had the following done: new roof skin put on, air vent stiched into other size (air vent removed from rolled car) .. so now it has an air vent on BOTH sides, 10 point roll cage, large hole cut in metal 'bulkhead' between radiator and front boot (will flow the air thru there and up thru hole in bonnet), chasis seam welded for strength, and some minor dings removed. Now I'm in the process of cleaning the shell up bit by bit and putting on etch primer. Then it'll be primered and then painted. Since the fuel filler now has a air intake over it, the fuel tank will be modified to be filled from the front (maybe flush with the front bonnet with one of those quick fill systems for endurance racing). All windows except front will be perspex (back one has roll cage going thru it!!). A friend is building a pedal box with dual braking system, so I'll be able to adjust brake bias from the drivers seat. All bushes will be polyurethane, and if we can't find/make them.. we'll rose joint them. Brakes will be stock SC to start with .... but will later upgrade to something like 12" wilwood disks with four pot calipers. The engine will be relatively stock (minus emissions items that we can remove without ECU packing a sad .. and the A/C of course). Later I'll like to do it up heaps .. hot cams ... programable computer etc etc etc ... plenty of money needed for that! : ). It's got a 2.5 inch exhaust with two flow master exhausts on it ... it's loud. I'm planning to move the intercooler so that it sits behind the second air vent .. with the air filter directly behind that - nice cold air!! (can anyone think of any probs with making the intercooler lines longer?) The battery will be relocated to the front of the car. The fuse box will be moved too since it will now block the air vent. We're not sure what we're going to do with the computer yet.... there's plans to put holes in the wall between the engine bay and the boot for air flow similar to the front one (with it venting out holes in the back of the boot lid). The computer may have to have a box to put it in to keep it cool (no heat shelding between it and the exhaust) .. or maybe put in the passenger compartment. The boot lid, spoiler and front air dam will have to be made out of fiberglass (myself) and the doors will be aluminimum (race preparation place). The spoiler will be basically the same .. but a bit wider and higher. The front air dam will go straight down from the bumper, and have one large hole in the middle for the radiator, and two small ones on the side for brake ducting. Interior will be minimal. We'll use the dash, instrument cluster and the top piece that fits along the center console where the gear change is. No sound deadening material (all removed in fire, good for weight! : ), no carpet, no plastic panels .. no nothing! Just dash, seats, harnesses, extra gauges and a fire extingisher. Phew ... you all asleep yet? Geoff .... I've got some photos here of the bare shell with it's roll cage .. can I get 'em put on the www page for people to look at? Also pics of the rolled car. Well, any suggestions would be helpfull and appreciated!! : ) Ade '86 SC T-Top MR2 ... "M1STR 2" .... my daily driver '87 MR2 SC Race car - being built using a rolled SC T-Top for parts '9? Fraser - lotus 7 replica kit being built AdeM@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 00:23:36 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: SEMA ROLL CALL Aloha... Again this year, several members of the Toyota Mods list will be Attending SEMA in Las Vegas. As of this moment, I'm opening up a invitation to anyone on the list that will be in the area or is already going if they wanna meet up one night and maybe have a guys nite out (or Ladys nite if any of them come -grin-) SEMA is being held once again at the Las Vegas Convention Center. Novemeber 4th is the Conference with several "shop" conferences Following Seminars are held each day of the conference also. If you need a copy, please let me know and i'll babble it out here or one of the guys who are going will. The Main exhibit days are November 5, 6, 7, and 8th 1996 Last year, the Infamous Chris Myers attended with myself and several members of the RX-7 list (like 3). A great time was held by all, considering some of the factors like airplane sickness, drinking of unbottled water, going to Vegas with only $45, Allan "Botoboy"'s car getting impounded (did not attend), my car breaking down the last day and making everyone late, the Toyota Mods FAQ being discussed, and general great times ! Last Year, i asked if anyone wanted anything from SEMA and gathered quite a list, however, due to a HD crash, I didn't get to send out all of the infomation to everyone that requested. I do apologize and if you still want it, I have them sitting at home. Things that can be aquired is mostly infomation, however, Infomation is the key these days... Anyways, enough of my babbling, if you wanna come, please inform myself koji@i-one.com Please include a rough schedule. This year, I have so far. Chris Myers Allen Koji Kam Allan "Botoboy" Chen Gary "Botoboy's Roomate (or vica verse)" Whose-last-name-escapes-me-at-this-time Anyone Else ? Oh, I have a house in Vegas so there will be internet access if you need it and also parking spaces, fax, answering machines, etcetc if needed. Aloha -Allen T Koji Kam 1987 FX-16 1988 Celica All Trac Turbo (Yeah i bought it -sigh-) 1969 Chevrolet Camaro (As seen in AirForce Commercial) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 10:37:26 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 6.7 inch LSD To Kostas and other interested parties, I did my testing on a small tight track called Winton in Victoria Australia using 195-60-14 tyres. I used Bridgestone 610S and Falken 'G' Grid. The 610s was probably the best radial we have ever seen in this country. 'Hoosier' is not a popular name here as the 'Street TD' is a crossply and usually banned. I found that the harder Falkens couldnt handle the TRD diff and made no difference, endless understeer through the tight corners. The 610's were better, they needed almost 45PSI and 3.5 degree neg to cope but after this there was a slight time advantage. For the Falkens which are a control tyre in some of our classes, I tried the Toyota LSD's on another day. I really couldnt pick much diference, perhaps the car was more stable but certainly there wasnt that understeer. So I concluded for series which allow 'R' class tyres the TRD unit made some difference, for series which dont the Toyota unit may make the driver feel a little more stable but the time wasnt on the clock. There is more evidence of this than just my car, Thomas Ng is a member of this list and he is competitive with me when on the same tyres without the LSD. Others that are faster use A008R or better with the TRD unit. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 09:33:11 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MKIITurbo: a few questions I just have a few questions about my 92 MR2T i've been curious about. Hope everyone can help. 1. Has put higher wattage bulbs in the fog lights? I'm sure they make these but what's the highest wattage bulb you can use without burning up the wiring? What about the headlights? 2. My shifter feels really notchy. Is this normal? It just doesn't feel very smooth and positive. Will a short shift kit cure this? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 11:59:44 -0600 Subject: 84 celica pros/cons To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hello, I have a line on an '84 celica - hatchback, this is what te owner says - take it for what it's worth (I haven't seen it yet): it is leaking coolant in to the oil - I'm thinking the timing chani has wore through the T/C cover... he has estimates for head gaskets. 'perfect' interior new tires sunroof a little rust on the hatch (like most of them) and a 'little' hail damage - other than that body OK any ideas what this might be worth? He's asking $300, I'm thinking $200 might be able to buy it. I just thought I'd play around with one of these for a while. - Brian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: quaifes Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 19:38:08 -0400 From: Adam Grove > > Is this GIF going to be on the mr2.com article too? I'd be interested in > this LSD as it might come in handy for my race car further down the track > when I have some more money! : ) > > thanks > There's a GIF of one somewhere on the net already (I stumbled across it earlier this year when looking for Quaife's address -- this was before Kostas posted the address.) I forget where on the net I found it but a search engine would presumably find it quickly. Although does it really matter what the thing looks like! I got my Quaife installed, finally, a couple of weeks ago. I can confirm that the "large mr2" style also fits in the MkI supercharged transmission (E51 I think). Exactly $800 to the U.S. including shipping (which was really fast...I ordered in on a monday morning, and it was on my doorstep on tuesday afternoon!). I haven't autocrossed with it so I don't know how much faster it will make me, but it gives a *lot* more traction in tight corners so I'd expect something. The car is now much less susceptible to spinning or power-oversteer (although if do go too far...watch out!). In my MkI s/c it's now practically impossible to spin the tires in a straight line even in the wet. The most fun aspect of it that on almost any reasonable corner I can do a lot of steering just with the throttle. When you hit the gas, there is so more traction ... and hence weight transfer presumably ... so the car moves towards understeer. Before the quaife, the throttle had nowhere near as much effect unless the car was very much nearer to the limit. This is the most dramatic effect on the handling that I've noticed, and I think it's great. All in all, this seems a really worthwhile mod. If there are any negatives aside from cost, I haven't run into them yet. -adam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 17:06:38 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall) Subject: Corolla GTS 85 Hi, A friend of mine just bought an 85 GTS the one with a trunk as opposed to the listback. He just started racing it in Factory Production and was wondering what the best suspension setup was for shocks, springs, swaybars as well as what specs the wheel should be aligned to. I don't know what mods are leagal in factory production. What type of exhaust should he be using ? HKS GReddy Custom ? If custom what size 2'1/4" or bigger ? On the intake side what type of set up is best HKS K&N other ? Brakes ? Carbon metallic best ? I know that these questions have prabably been asked a thousand times so I plan on compiling all of the answers and creating a GTS FAQ if this is a good idea please tell me I'm also intrested in creating an MK1 Mr2 FAQ as that is what I drive. The FAQ's Could include things like Suspension: Brakes : Exhaust : Intake : Engine : These catagories could then be broken down further into there specific sub fields such as Suspension: Shocks : Springs : Swaybars : Bushings : Alignment: If people were to contribute there experiences with certain performance items in the above listed categories this may help others in the future and save redundant questions as well such as the ones I posed earlier If this FAQ idea is a good one please E-mail me directly along with any suggestions Sorry for being so long just trying to help Dave McCristall Vancouver Canada McCristall Telephone 604 533-4098 Fax 604 533-7998 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 19:35:38 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall) Subject: Corolla GTS 85 Previously I wrote: A friend of mine just bought an 85 GTS the one with a trunk as opposed to the listback. He just started racing it in Factory Production and was wondering what the best suspension setup was for shocks, springs, swaybars as well as what specs the wheel should be aligned to. I don't know what mods are legal in factory production (I meant factory performance) Dave McCristall Vancouver Canada McCristall Telephone 604 533-4098 Fax 604 533-7998 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 23:54:46 -0400 From: Trevor Boicey To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Squeaky Celica Rearends My rear suspension is squeaking on my 1992 Celica GT. Basically, going over a speed bump sounds like awful grinding and squeaking. Just sounds like all over rubber bushing squeak, but what should I use to lubricate those grommets? Something I should know? It sounds like the grommets, because with my head underneath the car and somebody working the suspension, it sounds like it's coming from many places at once all where there seems to be suspension mounts. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Trevor Boicey - Computer Engineer 1992 Celica GT (95% of the driving I do) 1975 MG Midget (95% of the repairs I do) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 00:57:44 -0700 Subject: Re: MKIITurbo: a few questions To: "Harry Wang" , On Wed, 21 Aug 96, "Harry Wang" wrote: > 1. Has put higher wattage bulbs in the fog lights? I'm sure they make > these but what's the highest wattage bulb you can use without burning > up the wiring? What about the headlights? I tried using 100W bulbs in my 91 MR2 with only slight success. The wiring was apparently up to the task, but the bulbs didn't last long for some reason. I could never figure out why . . . Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 18:43:21 +1030 From: Design Team To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MA61 Modifications After contacting Toyota Australia and getting v.little help I found this site - excellent! I am looking for advice on improving my 1984 MA61 for competition (owned for 4 years). The standard Aus. model was released with the 5ME motor (!), which is a bit slow on the uptake and low revving for hillclimbs and super sprints (the fact that the Mallalla track in SA is the tighest racing circuit in Australia doesn't help either!). I am looking to replace the engine, but getting information is proving pretty difficult here. This model Supra is not especially common here in Australia, so trying to find out mod specs is pretty hard. So far I have found only a couple of people here in SA who have experience in putting in just the 5MGE motor, and was recommended by an interstate engine importer to by-pass that and go for the 1GGTE (2.0 litre, 24 valve, twin-turbo), which was supposedly released in Japan with the MA61 thus bolts straight in with standard factory Toyota parts. Before parting with my hard earned cash does anybody know anything else about fitting this motor to Supras? The article about replacing the 5MGE motor with the 7MGTE was eye opening (by Reg Reimer), and I will also be looking closely at following in his footsteps. Only question,is the MA67 the same as the MA61? I also noticed Reg describing first generation tyres as 225/50/16's, and wondered if the US/Canadian Supras were released with 16" rims as standard? The Australian MA61 was released with 225/60/14" as standard, and it is impossible to get good 14" tyres for competition. Research shows the MA61 Supra has a rather unusual offset and stud pattern (4 nuts) here, and there are no cast rims bigger than 16x7.5" (and this is a Model T choice - any rim as long as it is a design called Stealth) were available for the car - component rims are nice,light and available but v.expensive! Is the choice of rims better overseas? I look forward to hearing from other Supra owners, especially those who use these excellent cars for competition. Adrian Kemp xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:03:37 +1030 From: Design Team To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: Adrian Kemp Age: 30 Profession: Senior Industrial Designer Location: Adelaide, South Australia Model: 1984 MA61 Engine: 5ME (boo!) Mods: 2" exhaust and single free-flow muffler(no extractors) Some fuel system mods to run a little better than standard!! 14" leather steering wheel - believe me this is a huge benefit for motorkhanas! Coming up mods: New engine (clutch & gearbox probably later) New rims and tyre (14" to 16") Competition: Supersprints - 5 lap competition around Mallala racetrack Hillclimbs - at Collingrove racetrack in the Barossa Valley Motorkhanas - surprisingly the standard Supra rates very well for motorkhanas, usually finish in the top 5 (best is 2nd) General: Adore my car, I don't mind the later Supras but the MA61 will always be my favourite. Been into competition now for about 12 months, and feel really happy with my control of the car, but am looking for more power and speed. About to launch into a major engine upgrade so looking for tips as they are hard to get in Australia. e-mail phdgroup@camtech.net.au xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 21:04:41 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Mark Forder Subject: MK1 MR2 for sale For sale in Auckland, New Zealand 1984 MR2 (Jap import) RED, 5 speed, A/C 190k's Well maintained by only NZ owner (Enthusiast) for past 4 1/2 years Mobil 1 since 70k's New set of 4 Yokohama A510's Brand new Magnecor wires, Beru plugs, Nology Power core and coil Uniden alarm Momo wheel and knob I haven't needed a new clutch in all the time I've had it (70k's), and it feels like it will probably need a new one in the next 10,000km's or so, but other than that it is in very good mechanical condition, and goes very well compared to other MR2's I've driven. I'm asking $7500 for it, and at that price would make a good MR2 for someone who wants a "real" sports car. The reason I'm selling it (sadly) is because I just bought a Porsche 944 (I know I'm a traitor), and can't afford to keep both. Please email me if you have any further questions at all Mark Forder markf@kiwi.gen.nz xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 07:09:10 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Mk I MR2 - still getting rid of the last parts I've still got 'some' parts left from my '85 Mk I MR2 parts car. Getting more and more motivated to sell, as time goes on. Go to my web page (http://www.rust.net/~bagdon/mr2/mr2_parts.html) for a complete list and pricing, but here's the short version: Body - front & rear bumper, left & right headlight assembly, front trunk hood, rear trunk hood, left & right door, roof, rear trunk facia, etc. Glass - left & right door windows. Interior - door trim, rear center console, etc. Wheels/tires - (5) oem 3-spoke wheels + tires. Suspension - all 4 'quarters' (minus drive-shafts), hubs, calipers, turned and un-turned rotors, springs, strut assemblies, rear sway bar. Engine/electronics - starter, fuel injectors, coil/ignitor, engine ecu, cruise ecu, relays, switches, fans, motors, etc. I might just have to buy a beater, fix it up and sell it! But seriously, no prices are written in stone (much less drawn in sand!), so anything anyone sees that they need, let me know. Steve B. bagdon@rust.net (h) USFMDDKT@ibmmail.com (w) http://www.rust.net/~bagdon Katharine aNd Steve (KNS) ----------- '91 MR2T (daily driver), '85 MR2 (parts car) Mitsubishi DiamondTel 22X, Motorola MicroTAC Lite, Oki 900 Pinnacle Micro RCD-1000 - Feel The Burn Delta Airlines Gold Medallion xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 17:23:13 +0200 To: Rob.Koopman@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Rob M. Koopman (RSD group)) From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Re: Diff's Cc: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >Hi Kostas! > >You wrote: >> with lifting throttle and re-applying it, I almost got myself killed with >> the previous MR2 MK I I had. No more tricks here either. Entering a curve >Does this mean that you've installed a LSD on a Mk I?? This would be >very interesting for me. More info pullllease!! > >Ciao, Hi there, No I have not done so. The TORSEN type LSD I have installed on the MR2 MK II which I now have, a 91 model as pictured in mr2.com. I had before this an MK I European model 89 which had a normal two pinion differential with which one day as i was driving at about 80 mph straight road ahead I lifted my foot from the throttle and re-applied. The car almost span around as the tail jerked in a zigzag. I know that the Quaife differential, the one I have now installed on my 91 T will also fit the 89 SC MR2 MK I. That is confirmed. I don't know if they have one for the MK I NA but I know they also have another TOYOTA applicable unit, smaller in size, with no knowledge as to which Toyota it fits to....!!!!!!! BUT I also know that they can make one for any type of car. Why dont you ask them? They have a drawing where you record dimensions for them, send it back and get a quote. Regards Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 17:55:34 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Special offer Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com OK everybody here is a once per lifetime offer to all but mostly interesting to my European friends due to geographical proximity, customs (non due to EEC) etc. For sale: ( for looks see my car in mr2.com ) 2 ea OZ SATURN rims 17 x 8 equiped with GoodYears GSD + 235/45/17ZR 2 ea OZ SATURN rims 16 x 7,5 equiped with GoodYears GSD + 205/50/16ZR All 4 tires and rims brand new used for less than 200 mi AND 2 spare rims as above 17 x 8 AND 1 spare rim as above 16 x 7,5 With lugs for all to fit MR2 MK II any year. Asking $ 1000 plus transportation costs. (I will pay packaging) First cheque received gets them all. Regards, Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 22 Aug 1996 22:46:24 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: OZ locker, or Detroit locke To: "toyota mods" 10:07 PM OFFICE MEMO Time: Subject: OZ locker, or Detroit locker? 8/22/96 Date: Someone (I forgot who, sorry...) wrote: >>> they may as well be lockers (welded) I wrote: >> I'm not sure if I understood this comment... A locker is >> open for trailing throttle and (sometimes abruptly) locked up >> with the power on. Bruce Connelly wrote: > In Australia, a locked diff means one that is welded solid > A 'detroit locker' is as you said not locked under trailing throttle > but try and get one in a Jap Banjo housing! Of course! Sorry, everyone, I should have guessed... we're simply having a terminology problem here! OK, I got out my trusty English / American dictionary... lets see, Bonnet=Hood, Hood=Top, Boot=Trunk, Locker=Welded-up gears. NO PROBLEM ! Thanks for setting me straight, Bruce. By the way, people often think of Detroit lockers as primitive devices (well, yes, they are primitive...) but they work OK for autocrossing, once you are used to the abrupt engagement. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 23 Aug 96 10:05:06 +0200 From: Thomas Funder To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name: =09Thomas Funder Location: Copenhagen, Denmark, Scandinavia, Europe :) Model: =09MR2 NA MKI Engine: 4AGE (Scandinavian setup =3D no cats =3D 124hp) Mods: =09Tokio springs, Binno rims, Bridgestone S-02 rubber, =09K&N 57i air filter, Complete Pioneer CD+stereo and speakers email: =09xtf@bull.dk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Loh To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'" Subject: MR2 Web Page Date: Sat, 24 Aug 1996 17:06:48 +0800 My apologies for going off topic, but has anyone had trouble getting = into mr2.com lately? I keep getting "The remote site may be down" = messages. Leonard xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 24 Aug 1996 22:18:11 +0200 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Subject: Air Flow ? etc. Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Has anyone checked and confirmed the direction of the air flow on the side air vent ( not the one at the intercooler but the other one). When in motion does it move air into the engine compartment or does it move air out of it. In theory it should move it in. I am asking for I was thinking of fabrication sort of a RAM AIR pipe but have to be sure that air moves to thje right direction first. The second question to you all is if anyone has changed the gears of the gearbox of a 90-91 model with the ones for the 93. Do they fit? Do you have to change the shift crank lever on the trany? Any help welcome. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Allan Chen" Date: Sat, 24 Aug 1996 18:26:23 -0700 To: mmccrist@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Marion McCristall), Subject: Re: Corolla GTS 85 On Aug 21, 7:35pm, Marion McCristall wrote: > Subject: Corolla GTS 85 > Previously I wrote: A friend of mine just bought an 85 GTS the one > with a trunk as opposed to the listback. He just started racing it in > Factory Production and was wondering what the best suspension setup was for > shocks, springs, swaybars as well as what specs the wheel should be aligned > to. > I don't know what mods are legal in factory production (I meant > factory performance) I would need to know what class he is racing... I am assuming that factory production is like C-Stock in SCCA classification. With that you cannot modify much. You are limited to stock swaybars, struts & shocks, springs, exhaust system, wheels, etc... but you are permitted to use race compounds. Koji care to enlighten us on what SCCA considers C-stock. I haven't raced for about 3 years now so if any of you folks out there with a SCCA handbook could help fill us in on the details. If he is open to stuff other than C-stock... drop me an email :^). Latas, Botoboy... -- ******************************************************************************* Allan Chen Silicon Graphics Inc. Kino Lele... Mountain View, CA allanc@sgi.com "The Power to Fly" (415) 933-5211 ******************************************************************************* xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 24 Aug 1996 21:03:20 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: Bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: 84 celica pros/cons For $300 bucks, that's not to bad a deal. Sounds like an engine rebuild is due though!. If you had another '82- '85 Celica, then that would make a great parts car! Dave On Wed, 21 Aug 1996 Bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote: > Hello, > > I have a line on an '84 celica - hatchback, this is what te owner says - > take it for what it's worth (I haven't seen it yet): > it is leaking coolant in to the oil - I'm thinking the timing chani has wore > through the T/C cover... he has estimates for head gaskets. > 'perfect' interior > new tires > sunroof > a little rust on the hatch (like most of them) and a 'little' hail damage - > other than that body OK > > any ideas what this might be worth? He's asking $300, I'm thinking $200 might > be able to buy it. I just thought I'd play around with one of these for a > while. > > - Brian > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 22:49:39 +1000 To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: air ducting mods Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Kostas, >Thks Bill but my main question was: Keep the same diameter pipes or use >larger diameter pipes overall both for the input and output to the >intercooler. ( I agree with bends but this is not the issue here) > Just to clarify my answer; keep them the same size to minimise the change in airflow - I'll explain why further down the page. >A same diameter pipe would keep air speed the same but create no capacity >effect. > >A larger diameter pipe will decrease air speed but create a capacitive >effect (resulting into a probable increase of turbo lag but cancel air duct >oscillations that occur at high revs boost and smooth air supply to the >cylinders). > I agree, but I'd guess that the system wouldn't be ultra-sensitive about pipe diameter. But because of the limiting factors, ie, turbo compressor pipe exit diameter, intercooler inlet & outlet pipe diameters, and finally throttle body diameter, you'd have to come up with a sensible balance between all those (basically) unchangeable things. It's probably a safe bet to say that all those pipes are different diameters, so you'll have to do a bit of pipe diameter changing midstream anyway. In my not-very-expert opinion I'd reckon that you should make the new pipes no bigger than the biggest of the unchangeables, eg, if the intercooler pipes are the biggest then use as much of that size pipe as possible to connect everything up. Just make sure that any diameter changes are as smooth & gradual as possible. >Why is the stock pipe between the intercooler and the throttle tapered going >from less than 2 inches to over 3 into the throttle mouth? > Quite possibly to try to pick up the pressure loss inherant from the intercooler. (Whilst the outgoing air temp of an intercooler is much less than the ingoing, you lose a bit of pressure and therefore a bit of performance, but overall the effect of a good intercooler is beneficial.) The best way to explain this is to have a look at the turbocharger compressor. Around the centrifugal compressor wheel there is an increasing diameter 'scroll'. The scroll does a couple of things - Most obviously it collects the air exiting the compressor wheel but less obvious is what effect it has on the air exiting the turbo. The air comes off the compressor wheel at very high speed; up around mach one. The compressor scroll, or to give its correct name of 'diffuser', acts as a increasing diameter cone, slowing the airflow from a high-speed low static pressure state to a relatively slow-speed high static pressure state that is far more useful to a piston engine. That's what I'd guess the tapered cone between the intercooler & throttle body is for - to try to slow the incoming air down a bit, and hopefully convert it to a higher static pressure. (The other more likely reason is that it's simply to connect up two different size pipes, with not much thought as to the effect ... The intercooler that comes with the turbo kit has such-and-such size pipes, and if they wanted the entry and exit pipes to be the same as the throttle body & turbo compressor out let then they'd have to get it specially made, at great expense, so that didn't happen because of the almighty dollar .... ) If you'd like me to explain the static & dynamic airflow practices a bit more clearly, let me know. >Last but not least has Greddy selected the provided pipe at that diameter >because they just had it so available and was cost-effective to purchase and >form or was it that they found out that this was the best performing >diameter following extensive testing??? > Like I said - It's no doubt one of those two reasons, but I'd think $$$ is the bottom line. :( Em tasol, wantok, Bill S. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." Dum volvo, video disco ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 22:49:57 +1000 To: sv1bt@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Diff's Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Hi Kostas, >No I have not done so. The TORSEN type LSD I have installed on the MR2 MK II >them, send it back and get a quote. > I remember reading in Carrol Smiths books that he agreed that the Torsen was probably going to be the best thing since sliced bread, but he was concerned about the longevity of the internals of the centre. Does Quaife (or anyone) have any figures as to the expected life of the Torsen? It's not a problem for the well budgeted racing teams who can pop in a new one every meeting, but that could quickly wear a bit thin (pun intended!) for us poor club types. FWIW, I have a bog-stock AE-86 6.7" LSD in my AE-86, and the engine has an estimated 160 hp - I've had the LSD in the car for a while now and I haven't had any problems at all with it. It's been bloody great! (But as Bruce Connelly says, it does understeer around slow corners. Is easily fixed though - With a heavy right foot ... ;) Em tasol, wantok, Bill S. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." Dum volvo, video disco ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 22:50:18 +1000 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: Cam wear Hiya All, > John Garza sent a message about the short life (3K to 6K miles) he was > having with performance cams. This raised a question I don't have an > answer to. I don't know how many miles you should expect from a high > performance cam. It must be less the standard cam because of the > stronger springs and the higher acceleration forces due the higher > lift. You would also expect to run an engine with a performance cam > at higher RPMs and for more of the time. But I would still expect it > to last at least 50K miles. I only have 5K on mine. What are your > experiences? > From what I've seen, it does vary quite a bit depending on a few things - 1. Cam lobe area. 2. Surface area of cam follower. 3. Spring tension, and spring rate. 4. Cam duration & lift. 5. Oil flow for lubrication & cooling. So, if you look at these points we have (from best to worst) the ubiquitous twin cam is the best and the push-rod style being the worst. Why? The twin cam has a much easier job than the push-rod for all the right reasons - The cam usually have a greater suface area, they have full contact with the cam follower, the spring rates are usually no more than 2/3's that of push-rods (and they don't have the rocker arm multiplying the rate by another 50%-60%), the cams usually aren't anywhere near as agressive as 2-valve engines, and the cam lobes sit in a bath of oil rather than a drip feed style of oil delivery. As for SOHC engines with conventional followers, they'd fall in between somewhere. (Datsun L series, etc) I've only had problems with two cams in the last few years. One was not so long ago in my 4AGE, and the other was in my 3K in my racing car. The 3K cam had been in the engine for about 4 years, and after closely inspecting it for the first time after that time, it was apparent that the lobes had most definitely started to wear. The cam was about a 320 deg, 0.480" lift (at valve) spec, so it was most positively a race cam. Very approximately, 4 years running is ~16 hours running. Not much, eh? The problem with the 4AGE cam was manufacturing fault, and was easily fixed. The problem was found when I decided to do the biennial valve clearance check. After lifting the cam cover, I found that some of the the tops of the inlet cam lobes were pitted very badly, and were about to come apart in a big way. The cams are copies of the 'early' Toyota Group A Rally grind, and being copies they are simply some old cams that have had the stellite treatment. What had happened was that when the cams were ground down to make a base for the stellite, they weren't ground back enough and the stellite was too thin on the top of the lobe. I took the cam back to the shop that ground it and they fixed it up so that I shouldn't have any problems with it for some time to come. Up to the point where I dicovered the problem, the cams had done ~40,000km (25,000m) I'd guess that now they're in good condition again I can expect 160,000km+ from them. (FWIW, I have heard of a 4AGE with 300,000km on it. And it had never been apart!) With taxi's in Aus, it is quite common for them to go 600,000km (372,000m) before being rebuilt, and I know that the big diesel trucks can go much further than that. Em tasol, wantok, Bill S. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." Dum volvo, video disco ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 16:32:10 -0500 From: Richard de Tarnowsky To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Name : Richard de Tarnowsky Location: Baton Rouge, La Model : 1994 PU Extra Cab Engine : 22R EFI Trans : 5 spd Mods : None yet, in information gathering mode. email : rdetln@linknet.net Plan suspension and engine mods to better suit usage of vehicle. Originally purchased as a grocery getter/school vehicle, it now spends alot of time on the highway...it needs a tighter (possibly lower) suspension and definitely needs more power. --------------------------------------------------------------- ^ (please cut after reading) ^ Many moons ago, I used to compete in autocross and road rally events (the ones that were strictly TSD). Fun projects included making an old slant-six Dodge Dart handle well enough to embarrass most of the muscle cars that showed up. I worked for Toyota as a mechanic for a couple of years (when the Celica was newly released) and owned my own shop for a couple more. I learned about computer control system working with weapon systems, and covered alot of other things including manufacturing during four years of Industrial Engineering. Pardon the long-windedness, but my point is that I shouldn't be a burden on the other members of this list. There is a chance I will find what I need in the suppliers.text file. Thanks (There may be an extra subscription request...my "Reply-To" was pointed to my Unix domain which caused my original request to be directed there. The repair may have generated an extra request.) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 22:43:33 GMT To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Kevin Annfield Subject: More questions on 18RGU Well it's me back again. Just a couple of questions. 1) My timing marks on my cams don't seem to line up properly. When the inlet cam mark is in line with the arrows the mark on the exhaust cam seems to be advanced one tooth to much. Is this right?? Should they both be pointing up?? also 2) What fuel pressure and volume does my engine need? It has twin 40mm side draught solex-mikuni carbs. I ask this because after driving hard for 10 secs or so, I seem to be running out of fuel. What electric fuel pump should I have. I heard that one from a VL Commodore is very good??? Thanks to all of you xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos " , Cc: Subject: Re: air ducting mods Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 09:23:03 +1000 G'day Kostas, I think Bill is right on the money (unintentional pun) about the pipe diameters. I am also in the midst of installing some inlet plumbing, in my case trying to fit an intercooler to an 18RG turbo. The old plumbing stepped up the pipe diameter from around 45 mm out of the turbo to around 60 mm at the throttle body and to me it doesn't look too efficient. I am going to plumb the standard size pipe into the intercooler and have the intercooler outlet modified to the larger diameter thereby avoiding any ugly changes mid pipe. This may also have the added benefit of reducing the pressure drop (boost loss) across the intercooler but i'm just guessing here. I decided to try this based on a number of competition turbo setups i found in some books on turbocharging i have and if it was good enough for them.......Just another idea to think about. Cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: Bill Sherwood > To: Kostas G. D. Chryssos > Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: Re: air ducting mods > Date: Sunday, August 25, 1996 10:49 > > Hi Kostas, > > >Thks Bill but my main question was: Keep the same diameter pipes or use > >larger diameter pipes overall both for the input and output to the > >intercooler. ( I agree with bends but this is not the issue here) > > > Just to clarify my answer; keep them the same size to minimise the change in > airflow - I'll explain why further down the page. > > >A same diameter pipe would keep air speed the same but create no capacity > >effect. > > > >A larger diameter pipe will decrease air speed but create a capacitive > >effect (resulting into a probable increase of turbo lag but cancel air duct > >oscillations that occur at high revs boost and smooth air supply to the > >cylinders). > > > I agree, but I'd guess that the system wouldn't be ultra-sensitive about > pipe diameter. But because of the limiting factors, ie, turbo compressor > pipe exit diameter, intercooler inlet & outlet pipe diameters, and finally > throttle body diameter, you'd have to come up with a sensible balance > between all those (basically) unchangeable things. It's probably a safe bet > to say that all those pipes are different diameters, so you'll have to do a > bit of pipe diameter changing midstream anyway. In my not-very-expert > opinion I'd reckon that you should make the new pipes no bigger than the > biggest of the unchangeables, eg, if the intercooler pipes are the biggest > then use as much of that size pipe as possible to connect everything up. > Just make sure that any diameter changes are as smooth & gradual as possible. > > >Why is the stock pipe between the intercooler and the throttle tapered going > >from less than 2 inches to over 3 into the throttle mouth? > > > Quite possibly to try to pick up the pressure loss inherant from the > intercooler. (Whilst the outgoing air temp of an intercooler is much less > than the ingoing, you lose a bit of pressure and therefore a bit of > performance, but overall the effect of a good intercooler is beneficial.) > The best way to explain this is to have a look at the turbocharger > compressor. Around the centrifugal compressor wheel there is an increasing > diameter 'scroll'. The scroll does a couple of things - Most obviously it > collects the air exiting the compressor wheel but less obvious is what > effect it has on the air exiting the turbo. The air comes off the compressor > wheel at very high speed; up around mach one. The compressor scroll, or to > give its correct name of 'diffuser', acts as a increasing diameter cone, > slowing the airflow from a high-speed low static pressure state to a > relatively slow-speed high static pressure state that is far more useful to > a piston engine. > That's what I'd guess the tapered cone between the intercooler & throttle > body is for - to try to slow the incoming air down a bit, and hopefully > convert it to a higher static pressure. > (The other more likely reason is that it's simply to connect up two > different size pipes, with not much thought as to the effect ... The > intercooler that comes with the turbo kit has such-and-such size pipes, and > if they wanted the entry and exit pipes to be the same as the throttle body > & turbo compressor out let then they'd have to get it specially made, at > great expense, so that didn't happen because of the almighty dollar .... ) > > If you'd like me to explain the static & dynamic airflow practices a bit > more clearly, let me know. > > >Last but not least has Greddy selected the provided pipe at that diameter > >because they just had it so available and was cost-effective to purchase and > >form or was it that they found out that this was the best performing > >diameter following extensive testing??? > > > Like I said - It's no doubt one of those two reasons, but I'd think $$$ is > the bottom line. :( > > Em tasol, wantok, > Bill S. > > ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ > "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." > Dum volvo, video disco > ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: , Subject: Re: More questions on 18RGU Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:32:44 +1000 G'day Kevin, The Toyota set up is with both cam timing marks vertical, there is even a specific tool for achieveing this. In reality it is whatever works. Having recently dialled in my cams neither of them is set at the Toyota specs. If you can get hold of a dial gauge and a cam degree wheel have a play with the timings yourself. However with standard cams in an 18RG there is very little to be gained by playing with your cam timing, it sounds about right to me and i would be inclined to leave it. As for the fuel pump do not get a Commodore one as this is for a fuel injected motor. These pumps run in excess of 40 psi and are not suitable for a carburetted motor UNLESS you upgrade your fuel hose, install a surge tank and lift pump and run a high presure regulator. I ran a Facet electric pump with my N/A 18RG with produces 7 psi and about 35 gal/hr. This should be more than ample for your needs and they are fairly cheap too. Cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: Kevin Annfield > To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: More questions on 18RGU > Date: Monday, August 26, 1996 8:43 > > Well it's me back again. Just a couple of questions. 1) My timing marks on > my cams don't seem to line up properly. When the inlet cam mark is in line > with the arrows the mark on the exhaust cam seems to be advanced one tooth > to much. Is this right?? Should they both be pointing up?? also 2) What fuel > pressure and volume does my engine need? It has twin 40mm side draught > solex-mikuni carbs. I ask this because after driving hard for 10 secs or so, > I seem to be running out of fuel. What electric fuel pump should I have. I > heard that one from a VL Commodore is very good??? Thanks to all of you > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 16:41:38 -0800 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: mmccrist@cln.etc.bc.ca (Marion McCristall) Subject: MK1 MR2 and TRD When I purchased my new engine (4AGE) from a guy who used to Race Corolla GTS he gave me a TRD engine/suspension prep guide for the AW11 MR2. I believe it is from the old TRD catalog aroud 1990 maybe ?? It gives a brief history of the MR2 and the 4AGE as well as the 4AGZE. The Catalog rates the MR2 in the various SCCA classes never giving it less than an "A" grade this being if all drivers were equal. It has a vehicle preparation section which lists mods in two phases. The first phase is titled Street performance. This section says Phase One: STREET PERFORMANCE Results: Slight decrease in ride quality, improved handling, improved brakind 10-15 hp increase. TRD Springs TRD Adjustable Swaybars TRD Low pressure gas strut inserts TRD Brake pads TRD Brake line kit (drain and install ford type fluid) TRD Header and Exhaust System High Flow Air filter Recalibrate fuel injection system (See Engine Preparation Section) Reset alignment: Camber Front: -1 degree Camber Rear : -1 " Caster : +6 " Toe in Front: 1/16 in. Toe in rear : 1/8 in. Phase Two: AUTO CROSS, STREET PERFORMANCE AND ROAD RACE (Dependent upon class restrictions) RESULTS: Decrease in ride quality (lowers ride height 1.5-2 in.), dramatically improved handling, improved braking. Instead of phase one equipment: TRD High pressure gas stuts TRD Springs Reset Alignment: Camber Front: -2 degrees Camber Rear : -1 1/2 degrees Caster : +6 degrees Toe in front: 1/16 in. ( 1/8 in. out for auto cross) Toe in rear : 1/8 in. ( 1/16 in. out for auto cross) All phase one Modifications, Plus: TRD Urethane Bushings " Front and Rear strut tower braces " Negative camber blocks " Front and Rear adjustable camber kits " Engine Modifications ( see Engine Modifications section) " Light weight fly wheel " Heavy Duty Clutch " LSD " Performance Ratio Ring and pinion Set " Close ratio transmission gear set I've got the part numbers for all those goodies listed above but I don't know if there still avalible or what they cost Section 3.3 (Summary) Engine Components: 4AG "The bottom end of the 4AG has proven extremely reliable in all types of performance applications, and the stock connecting rods and crankshaft will withstand up to 170 hp and 8000 rpm. For applications where higher hp or rpm are desired, Carillo rods, our TRD billet crankshaft and dry sump lubrication is required." "The original fuel injection system is capable of delivering suffucient fuel to support 140hp with only minor adjustments (see engine preperation section). Engines that develop over 170 hp will require larger injector nozzles." 4AG Engine Recommendations Phase One: Street Performance Results: Although there are no internal engine modifications, this phase is no emmisions legal. Modifications cause no reduction in low speed drivability and there is a 15-20% hp increase over a usable power range from 3000-6500 rpm. TRD Exhaust header and high flow exhaust Recalibration of fuel injection system (see engine preperation section) TRD Spark plug wire Set TRD Adjustable camshaft gears Phase Two: Street Performance, Rally, Road Race Results: With no internal modifications or decrease in drivability, there is a increase of 25-30% hp increase over a usable power range of 3000-8000 rpm. TRD Exhaust header and high flow exhaust Recalibration of fuel injection system (see engine preperation section) TRD Spark plug wire Set TRD Adjustable camshaft gears TRD Camshafts (272 duration intake 272 duration exhaust 7.5mm lift) Phases 3-5 require internal modifications 4AGZ vs. 4AGE internal differences. Strengthened block Dished forged pistons Connecting rod journal diameter increased from 40mm - 42mm Piston pin diameter increased from 18mm - 20mm This Catalog also has listings for: Carbs Fuel injection modification kits (the second kit includes a potentiometer and wiring required to adjust the injector pulse.) , 12 different cams with lift from 7.5mm - 10.7mm Short blocks with 12.7:1 compression ratios Oil pump gear set (high volume for stock pump) Oil pan baffles(for stock pan) 2 flywheels As well as the aforementioned suspension pieces. One question for all of you modders out there does anyone out there have the Engine preperaton section with the fuel injection recalibraton section ?? Sorry for taking up so much space Ithught this might be of intrest to the other Mk1 owners. Any questions on part #'s email me directly. This wasn't the whole catalog just the parts that I thought would be applicable to this mailing list. Dave McCristall Vancouver Canada McCristall Telephone 604 533-4098 Fax 604 533-7998 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 21:59:48 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MK1 MR2 and TRD In a message dated 96-08-25 19:39:57 EDT, you write: << One question for all of you modders out there does anyone out there have the Engine preperaton section with the fuel injection recalibraton section ?? >> The TRD catalog I have from 1990 is perhaps the most complete listing of performance parts I've ever seen for the MR2 (47 pages + 10 pages of parts/price list), but unfortunately the new catalog isn't the same. I do have a section called "Performance Engine Modification" and it goes through the procedure for EGR mods and AFM mods, as well as other engine theories (balanced camshafts with fuel & air, etc.). I don't have the prep guide you speak of though... thanks for the info! Dave A. daucott@aol.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 03:53:20 UT From: "BRAD BEDELL" To: "Harry Wang" , Subject: RE: MKIITurbo: a few questions Harry, 100 watt bulbs will work w/ the factory wiring, but the heat they produce will burn up the bulbs, the best advice is to put a aftermarket driving/fog light in.. As for the notchy shifter, try new shifter cables, possibly motor mounts, Be gentle or you will just have to live w/ notchy shifting.... I have a question for anyonewho can answer it for me....I have a overheating problem, done all the basic checks, radiator, thermostat, waterpump, headgasket, etc. I believe the problem is w/ airflow over the radiator, I am using the Han front nose and think the different shape is the cause of poor airflow over the radiator...anyone experienced this problem? It only does it above 100 mph and under boost, I can run 1/4 mile runs all day long and no problems....Please help if you can, I am pulling my hair out w/ this problem... Brad Bradbedell@msn.com ---------- From: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com on behalf of Harry Wang Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 1996 12:33 PM To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com; toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MKIITurbo: a few questions I just have a few questions about my 92 MR2T i've been curious about. Hope everyone can help. 1. Has put higher wattage bulbs in the fog lights? I'm sure they make these but what's the highest wattage bulb you can use without burning up the wiring? What about the headlights? 2. My shifter feels really notchy. Is this normal? It just doesn't feel very smooth and positive. Will a short shift kit cure this? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:50:37 +1200 To: kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Erik.Berg@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: 3SGE OIL PROBLEMS Hiya. I spent the weekend looking at kitcars under construction and have a question about 3SGE oil systems. I saw a 3SGE in bits. I have heard that they have a tendency to die in kit car use, due to oil surge/failure. Here is a theory I would like to verify. I beleive the motor has developed from the 1S engine of early 80s, which sat upright and was RWD. The 3SGE has only been used FWD (Celica, Corona, Carina) or MR2 RWD - not north/south. As such, the 3SGE has only been designed to operate on an angle (say 15 degrees) from vertical, as it sits in MR2, celica etc. This is evidenced by the angle of the oil pan bottom. Looking at the head, with the engine at the 'normal' angle, all the drains to the sump are on the inlet (low) side - there are non on the exhaust (high) side. I believe setting the motor vertical causes a much greater volume of oil to accumulate in the head, as the effective 'weir' height is increased. When this is combined with the shortening/squaring off of the sump required to gain ground clearance in a Lotus 7 type car, the reduction in sump capacity, combined with the greater volume of oil resident in the head, is sufficient to starve the oil pump and hence cause surge - especially in right hand turns. Apparently dry sumping cures this - I would argue this is coincidental - due to the greater capacity of the dry sump tank system allowing the 'storage' of excess oil in the head without starving the pressure pump and causing it to lose suction, rather than the scavenging of the sump etc. Therefore could the problem be solved by modifying the oil pan to the shortened height, but increasing the pan length to the entire length of the block, hence increasing capacity to allow for the head oil build up. Naturally baffling etc will be required. This can be done in a 7 as there is no cross member under the engine in the way. It is also possible (I guess) to dril external oil returns from the head on the exhaust side to the sump via some tubing, however there are 5 'pockets', two of which have manifold studs in the way of drain holes. Coments please - I am trying to prvent 2 engines fron dying! Phil Bradshaw Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve 'M1STR 2' MR2 loaner! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 15:51:08 +1000 To: Kevin Annfield From: bilzilla@zeta.org.au (Bill Sherwood) Subject: Re: More questions on 18RGU Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com >I ask this because after driving hard for 10 secs or so, >I seem to be running out of fuel. > You need a new fuel filter - It's passing enough fuel at low power, but as the fuel flow increases it can't keep up and so the fuel bowls in the carbies start to run dry ... Em tasol, wantok, Bill S. ~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~-=-~ "It must be true 'cause I saw it on TV." Dum volvo, video disco ** Another pothole in the Information Superhighway ** xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 02:58:10 -0700 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: skchang@ucdavis.edu (Shung-Kung Chang) Subject: Droning at 70 mph Hi: I have a Remus muffler installed in a 94 Camry but it is droning around 70 mph or 2300 rpm. Is it anyway to reduce the noise? Sincerely Shung-Kung Chang xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 11:57:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: RE: MK1 MR2 and TRD To: Toyota Mods Wow... could you send me a photocopy of this catalogue of yours????????? Ade : ) ---------- > From: toyota-mods-owner > To: toyota-mods > Subject: MK1 MR2 and TRD > Date: Sunday, 25 August 1996 04:41PM > > When I purchased my new engine (4AGE) from a guy who used to Race Corolla > GTS he gave me a TRD engine/suspension prep guide for the AW11 MR2. I > believe it is from the old TRD catalog aroud 1990 maybe ?? It gives a brief > history of the MR2 and the 4AGE as well as the 4AGZE. > [snip snip] xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 14:57:00 NZS From: Adrienne Mora Subject: Re: MK1 MR2 and TRD To: Toyota Mods > << One question for all of you modders out there does anyone out there have > the Engine preperaton section with the fuel injection recalibraton section > ?? >> > > The TRD catalog I have from 1990 is perhaps the most complete listing of > performance parts I've ever seen for the MR2 (47 pages + 10 pages of > parts/price list), but unfortunately the new catalog isn't the same. I do > have a section called "Performance Engine Modification" and it goes through > the procedure for EGR mods and AFM mods, as well as other engine theories > (balanced camshafts with fuel & air, etc.). > > I don't have the prep guide you speak of though... thanks for the info! hey ... why don't you guys write all this info up for the web page ... even though it's an old catalogue .. i for one would love to see what they've written. Thanks Ade xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: Re: MK1 MR2 and TRD To: mmccrist@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Marion McCristall) Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:51:34 -0400 (EDT) Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > > Dave McCristall > Vancouver Canada > McCristall > > Telephone 604 533-4098 > Fax 604 533-7998 > Dave, This list you sent was very, very helpful. I would also like to see it on the website. Also the info on the engine tuning would be great if anyone has it out there. Thanks, Aly '85 MR2 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: aly abulkheir Subject: TRD Bushings, No Directions. To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:59:09 -0400 (EDT) Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu Hi All, I just received a set of TRD Bushings from Chris Myer, and I'd like to install them soon. The only problem is TRD did not include any directions with them. I have 7 individual bags with 2 bushings in each bag and each bag has a part number on it. That's it. It doesn't say which bushing goes where. I've called TRD and left a message, but they haven't gotten back to me, and I called Select Sales and they confirmed that the Bushings do not come with directions and that they'd see what they could do, but I haven't heard from them since either. If anyone has any info on this or can tell me where each bushing goes and the best way to install them, the help would be very appreciated. Thanks guys and gals, Aly '85 MR2 abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Bwiencek@kcnet.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 10:42:36 -0600 Subject: Re: 84 celica pros/cons To: David Rees , Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com I was a couple of hours too late... I went to make an offer on sunday, and he had just sold it a couple of hours before... I guess that's what I get for wanting too good of a deal. I'm going to have to keep my eyes out for others... Thanks to all who replied! - Brian On Sat, 24 Aug 1996, David Rees wrote: >For $300 bucks, that's not to bad a deal. Sounds like an engine rebuild >is due though!. If you had another '82- '85 Celica, then that would make >a great parts car! > >Dave > >On Wed, 21 Aug 1996 Bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote: > >> Hello, >> >> I have a line on an '84 celica - hatchback, this is what te owner says - >> take it for what it's worth (I haven't seen it yet): >> it is leaking coolant in to the oil - I'm thinking the timing chani has wore >> through the T/C cover... he has estimates for head gaskets. >> 'perfect' interior >> new tires >> sunroof >> a little rust on the hatch (like most of them) and a 'little' hail damage - >> other than that body OK >> >> any ideas what this might be worth? He's asking $300, I'm thinking $200 might >> be able to buy it. I just thought I'd play around with one of these for a >> while. >> >> - Brian >> > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 08:51:57 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MR2 Web Page Yeah i have. I tried "www.mr2.com" and "mr2.com" with no luck. Maybe i just tried to get in at a bad time. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: MR2 Web Page Author: Loh at SMTP Date: 08/24/1996 7:32 AM My apologies for going off topic, but has anyone had trouble getting = into mr2.com lately? I keep getting "The remote site may be down" = messages. Leonard xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 09:05:09 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: cooling turbo in newer cars My friend with the 96 Eclipse GSX says he doesn't have to idle his car at all to cool the turbo. He brags that since his car his "newer" than mine he doesn't have to do what i have to do with my 92 MR2 Turbo. I don't think this is true. What do you guys think? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 14:05:39 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: CAM WEAR AND LSD Bill, So thats the problems is it, the LSD would work better if I DROVE IT harder! I must say all my LSD blow up problems happened with 2TG and 3TG(1720 and 1920) and these engines would blow my 4AG away on 1/2 throttle. But while I had trouble with diffs I've never really had any with CAMS. My 4AG 264's have now done 30K and the shim clearance is unchanged. The 2TG's we used had 50/80 and worse CAMS and I never had cam wear even after 60,000 KMS plus. But beware, the two valve engines have problems with cams, and its the fact the the valve hammers itself into the seat with big cams and the clearenace goes to zero in no time. 2TG and 18RG were famous for this. In the end we used TRD valves, they are harder and resist this more. This is the ultimate problem with the old two valve engines. You cannot really drive them a long distance on the road with standard valves and big cams. The 4AG is just so tolerant to small cams at least. For the information of others, if you dont have the engine mods section of the 4AG manual from TRD dont worry. The parts section that follows the MR2 and Corolla marks the type of mod to the stages. As we now all know, 210CC is fine to 264, 250 cc from 272 to 288 and 290cc for above 288. For some the 210cc injectors can be used on bigger grinds if the injection box gives the pulse width and can give one pulse per rev beyond 6000. The Toyota box only gives one pulse every two higher up the range. Bruce. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 08:54:14 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, lohs@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Streetlife world rallying shop report Leonard asked me to check out the Auckland Streetlife World Rallying shop last week when I was up there. I had never been there before and wasn't even aware of it's existance. Sorry to say that it was very dissappointing. It caters for the rich and foolish - sure, the gear is top quality - but why pay $620 for a set of front disc pads.... Any place that is big on window stickers but small on diagnosic equuipment is suspect in my book. Do you really need Sparco driving overalls? - all the guys here who race seem to survive in Flamecruhsers at a fraction of the price. You could always spend $30 on the pencil holder, or $250 on the carbon fibre navigator foot rest. Funny old thing - most of the professional rally cars here use alloy plate or the roll cage bracing for foot rests... Leonard - I did get a catalogue - there wasn't a lot in it, other than dress up pose items at horrendous cost - (I don't think the professional rally drivers shop there) and the new one is out soon, but I can send it yo you if you want. Alternatively, if there is something specific you are after, I can have a go at tracking down the 'real' suppliers of go faster bits. I don't see John Butler, who worked for TWR racing, and builds race engines selling $250 stickers.... Phil Bradshaw Leith Supersprint Loaner Supercharger MR2 - 'Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown' xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 13:16:51 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MKIIT exhaust I was reading one of my back issues of Turbo Magazine yesterday and was reading the article on (i forgot his name) a white 93 MR2 Turbo running in the 11's. He was using an Ultra Flow muffler. Does anyone else have this setup? An Ultra Flow with perhaps mandrel bent tubes. Seems like this would be a good alternative to an expensive Trust or HKS cat-back system. Is there and Ultra Flow with two outlets? Comments? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 11:21:31 +1200 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, From: Philip.Bradshaw.1@uni.massey.ac.nz (Phil Bradshaw) Subject: Alloy Wheel tolerances Went on a field trip to Auckland last week, visited an alloy wheel plant. Their specs for diameter are +/- 0.65 mm and run out (ie 'wobble') is 0.25 mm. Bearing in mind that this is for new wheels, but at least it gives something to aim for. I am no further along with the modifying of the wheels - unfortunately I will probably have to wait 'till next year, and I am contemplating other options as well, however best I can figure on interference fit for steel inserts in alloy wheels is 0.001 inch intereference for each inch of insert diameter. Any commments? Phil Bradshaw. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:51:30 -0700 From: nate@sinewave.com To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: engine swaps Hi everybody, Can someone tell me where California law stands in terms of swapping engines. A friend of mine is thinking about swapping engines on a 70's corolla. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Nate nate@sinewave.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:51:49 -0700 From: mike pine To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: 3123@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: good Day! hi there i just wondered if you had any basic longevity ideas for the 3sgTe 87-89 oiling system any help or leads to were i can go would be greatly appreciated! im in the process of a complete engine and trans rebuild am getting ready to put the motor back together anyways thanx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:59:32 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: nate@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: engine swaps The current law (I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong!) is that as long as you swap in a engine from a car that is the same age or newer and all of it's smog equipment, it legal. Good luck, Dave On Mon, 26 Aug 1996 nate@sinewave.com wrote: > Hi everybody, > > Can someone tell me where California law stands in terms of swapping > engines. A friend of mine is thinking about swapping engines on a 70's > corolla. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. > > Nate > nate@sinewave.com > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:26:16 -0400 From: Trevor Boicey To: Bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Squeaky Celica Rearends Bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote: > > I've had good luck with 'waterproof' 'RED' grease sold here for miostly trailer > bearings and farm equipment where constant exposure to water is a factor... I > find it lasts longer than the 'poly bushing grease' and regular white lithium. > Grease ALL the bushings that move - they'll all eventually squeak, so it's best > to cover them before they squeak. In a pinch I use the spray white lithium & > try to get the little nozzle between the mount & the bushing. I have some spray white lithium that I can at least use to see if that is the problem. I am starting to wonder if that is indeed where the awful noise is coming from. It's almost too loud and awful to be coming from there. One factor, I recently moved into a new building that has a mess of speed bumps in the parking garage. Maybe the daily suspension excursion made all my tired old bushings complain at once. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Trevor Boicey - Computer Engineer 1992 Celica GT (95% of the driving I do) 1975 MG Midget (95% of the repairs I do) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 22:03:57 -0700 Subject: Re: engine swaps To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, David Rees wrote: >The current law (I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong!) is that as >long as you swap in a engine from a car that is the same age or newer and >all of it's smog equipment, it legal. Good luck, Dave Before buying an engine, consider this about most stock turbo engines: 1. It doesn't take much more than a turn of a valve to increase boost and net a substantial power gain (20-30%). 2. You can perform the first point with very little (usually none) modification to any of the emission controls. I'm not sure about the legality of this kind of tweaking in California, but in most of the rest of the country, all you have to do is disable (read hide or remove) the adjustment before testing/inspection. Now with swapping in an appropriately durable stock turbo engine (that will fit), a person can for the most part have as much power on tap as they can afford to put into non-emission control equipment (i.e. raised boost, intercooling, bottom end, cat-back exhaust) without alerting the local inspectors to anything other than an updated engine swap. Food for thought. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo (200hp and climbing) _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:20:34 -0700 Subject: Intercooler Folklore To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Something concerning intercoolers that has repeatedly surfaced on this list and in some magazine articles has never sat well with me. Now I know exactly why. It's the myth that a pressure drop across an intercooler is bad. Not necessarily true. Basic physics tells us that mass for an atom remains constant unless the atom is changed or destroyed. Now keeping this in mind, how could a pressure drop from an intercooling system be bad? Mass is conserved - i.e. the same mass of air entering the intercooler will exit it. Now also consider that the ultimate operation of the intercooler by physical definition is to cool the airflow, thus making the air more dense. Physically it is impossible to do this without also reducing pressure. In a nutshell: A pressure drop from intercooling means either you've got an undersized intercooler, a leak, or the damn thing's doing what it's supposed to do! A pressure drop for an adequately rated intercooler is good in that it means the air has been cooled and has a higher density for the space that it occupies. I.e. volumetric efficiency is not compromised. A pressure drop from the intercooler is only bad when the intercooler itself is acting as a restriction. Hopefully this has answered more questions than it created . . . Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?R=E4ikk=F6nen_Timo?= To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: Matti Kalalahti Subject: Re: Roger Ramjet?? Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 13:40:00 +0300 Hi there! I maybe old and I'm just getting to THIS time loop, so I've never heard of that...thing :). It was fun and I enjoyed it... =3D) I hope we don't go to the way that "once said enough"! Things and "truths" will change in time and we also (also new members will born), so let there be time loops... -Timo- ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: bilzilla Cc: toyota-mods Subject: Re: Roger Ramjet?? Date: 10. 08. 1996 20:40 > Hiya all, > Here's a story I found that you will no doubt get a good = laugh > over. I've reproduced it exactly as written, except for correcting = spelling > mistakes. Enjoy! Oh no. Not again. I think I laughed the first couple of times I saw this story, but I think that was two years ago. Since then, it gets posted to every automotive mailing list every month... I hope SOMEBODY read it now for the first time ;) Next, we will probably start the argument of torque vs horsepower, and the proper shift points, followed by a religious war of oils, synthetic vs non-synthetic and between brands... Either I'm stuck in a time loop or I'm getting old... -- Matti Kalalahti =F6 Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476=C9ee.tut.fi =F6 RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving = on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/=FCk124476/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 07:56:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: kca@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore On Mon, 26 Aug 1996 kca@interserv.com wrote: > Something concerning intercoolers that has repeatedly surfaced on this list and > in some magazine articles has never sat well with me. Now I know exactly why. > > It's the myth that a pressure drop across an intercooler is bad. Not exactly. There are several real disadvantages to pressure drop across the intercooler. Assuming you want your engine to ingest 10 PSI of air at a given temperature. If you have a low-pressure-loss intercooler your turbo only may need to generate 11 PSI of pressure, losing 1 PSI across the intercooler to get 10 PSI into the engine. If you have a high-pressure-loss intercooler your turbo may need to generate 14 PSI of pressure to get 10 PSI into the engine. The air compressed to 14 PSI will be hotter than the air compressed to 11 PSI, and most likely the turbo will be less efficient at 14 PSI than at 11. Thus the resulting air charge is hotter, less dense, and therefore less powerful at the same 10 PSI level at the engine. Sometimes you can trade off more pressure drop for better cooling, but in general less restriction is a good thing. Also, higher restriction means more turbo lag and worse throttle response when you stomp on it. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 08:35:29 -0700 Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore To: Aaron Buhr Cc: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Tue, 27 Aug 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote: >On Mon, 26 Aug 1996 kca@interserv.com wrote: >> It's the myth that a pressure drop across an intercooler is bad. > > Not exactly. There are several real disadvantages to pressure drop >across the intercooler. - snip - >Sometimes you can trade off more pressure drop >for better cooling, but in general less restriction is a good thing. > > Also, higher restriction means more turbo lag and worse throttle >response when you stomp on it. I fully understand and for the most part agree with what you're saying, but one point that I was attempting to make was that assuming a well matched intercooler/turbo combo, the more pressure that can be dropped across the intercooler, the better. I.e. intercooler efficiency is better and VE is effectively increased with the increased density. 10 psi at 85 F will always provide a more dense charge than 12 psi at 285 F. (Wish I could remember those formulas for pressure vs. temp.) OTOH, like you have illustrated, undersizing the intercooler can provide an unwanted pressure drop through excessive restriction. The efficiency of the turbo is an important issue, but something that should be considered seperately. It's a matter of keeping things in perspective and being able to assess what is causing the pressure drop. A very efficient intercooler will better allow the use of an inefficient turbo. E.g. If someboy wants to get 100psi out of their turbo at an efficiency of less than 10% (very unadvisable), a very large pressure drop should be expected (required?) from the intercooler. The best solution is to start with a properly sized turbo, then worry about the intercooler. Damn, more on this later. Gotta go to work! Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 27 Aug 1996 15:41:27 -0400 From: "Bruce Touzel" Subject: Re: Squeaky Celica Rearends To: "Toyota Mods" Subject: Time:3:40 PM OFFICE MEMO RE>Squeaky Celica Rearends Date:8/27/96 Bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote: > > I've had good luck with 'waterproof' 'RED' grease sold here for miostly trailer > bearings and farm equipment where constant exposure to water is a factor... I > find it lasts longer than the 'poly bushing grease' and regular white lithium. > Grease ALL the bushings that move - they'll all eventually squeak, so it's best > to cover them before they squeak. In a pinch I use the spray white lithium & > try to get the little nozzle between the mount & the bushing. I have some spray white lithium that I can at least use to see if that is the problem. I am starting to wonder if that is indeed where the awful noise is coming from. It's almost too loud and awful to be coming from there. One factor, I recently moved into a new building that has a mess of speed bumps in the parking garage. Maybe the daily suspension excursion made all my tired old bushings complain at once. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Trevor Boicey - Computer Engineer 1992 Celica GT (95% of the driving I do) 1975 MG Midget (95% of the repairs I do) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 15:06:19 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: Harry Wang Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: cooling turbo in newer cars On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Harry Wang wrote: > My friend with the 96 Eclipse GSX says he doesn't have to idle his car > at all to cool the turbo. He brags that since his car his "newer" > than mine he doesn't have to do what i have to do with my 92 MR2 > Turbo. I don't think this is true. What do you guys think? Unless he's got an oil circulator which run's after the car is shut down then he definitely does. Of course not doing it will only shorten the life of the turbo, which is okay. If it holds true to it's reputation tranny will probably self destruct before the turbo anyhow. - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623 I live with fear and danger everyday. But occasionally I leave Her and go racing. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: Toyota mods From: Harry Pitaro Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:47:28 EST Subject: Re: MK1 MR2 and TRD > This list you sent was very, very helpful. I would also like to see >it on the website. Also the info on the engine tuning would be great if >anyone has it out there. > I agree. Would love to see the info on the list. Regards, Harry Pitaro Nov. '87 MK1 MR2 K&N Air Filter Eibach Springs Koni Sport Adjustable Shocks _____________________ pitaro@ozemail.com.au Melbourne, Australia ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 12:34:30 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: 3SGE OIL PROBLEMS >of drain holes. > >Coments please - I am trying to prvent 2 engines fron dying! Neli Fraser has managed to design a sump that apparently solves the problems. Eric Stansfied is now using one of these sumps and apparently has had no problems > >Phil Bradshaw >Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve >'M1STR 2' MR2 loaner! > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 12:34:43 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Alloy Wheel tolerances At 11:21 AM 27/08/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >Went on a field trip to Auckland last week, visited an alloy wheel plant. >Their specs for diameter are +/- 0.65 mm and run out (ie 'wobble') is 0.25 >mm. Bearing in mind that this is for new wheels, but at least it gives >something to aim for. I am no further along with the modifying of the wheels >- unfortunately I will probably have to wait 'till next year, and I am >contemplating other options as well, however best I can figure on >interference fit for steel inserts in alloy wheels is 0.001 inch >intereference for each inch of insert diameter. Performance wheels fitted some steel inserts for me. Also the Pit Stop tyre shop in Auckland can perform this operation or they have someone who does it for them. > >Any commments? > >Phil Bradshaw. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 21:21:41 -0500 (CDT) To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Scott Davis Subject: body engine swaps I would like to know what has to remain the same on a car to register it as what it started as. Specifically, a few of the guys at the engineering place I work at were thinking of taking an old rolla frame, removing the chassis and replacing it with a polymer body, and replacing what we could up front and underneath to make it more powerful. However, if we did something like this, then the only components that would remain the same are the frame/steering parts. I guess that we could reuse the headlights too. How are kit cars registered? Chassis, motor, somethign else? TKS, Scott xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:57:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: ['90 Supra Turbo/7MGTE] Lexus AFM upgrade update Hi everyone. My last update was when I had pulled the Lexus AFM off to get the screw installed, and put the stock AFM back on with the larger injectors. The next day after that I got the Lexus AFM back with the custom air screw in. That was about three weeks ago. Anyway, the car ran crappy after I ran the wrong AFM. The engine ran so rich that I clogged my primary cat bad (second cat is gone). Power was down and underhood heat was high. Anyway, last Friday I got my new 2.5" downpipe installed and fixed that problem, so my throttle responsiveness is back. However, I'm still not happy with the Lexus AFM setup. I'll say right off that the problems may be due to my/my mechanic not having it installed correctly (who knows) or maybe because I still don't have the modified fuel pressure regulator I'm supposed to run. I'm hoping Reg will help me out. Anyway, you'll recall that power was up significantly and idle sucked with the Lexus AFM and 550cc injectors, without custom air screw and without FPR. I now have the custom air screw in, but still no FPR. The result is that my idle still sucks, maybe it's a bit better, and my fuel cut has moved way down from where it was without the screw, and power is less than before. The custom air screw blocks off most of the bypass portion of the AFM, forcing more air past the sensor and causing higher air flow readings. I had been running with the EVC set at about .95-1.00 bar, and was getting between .85 and .95 bar boost under most conditions. Anyway, the new air screw has lowered air flow enough that I can't set my EVC any higher than .70 bar (10.3 PSI) without hitting fuel cut, and I've even hit it once there (before AFM upgrade I could only run .53 bar without hitting fuel cut). And my idle still sucks. Needless to say, I'm fairly frustrated now. Power feels down quite considerably from before I put the custom air screw in, even with the cat gone. I'm assuming that's due just to the drop in boost from effectively .90 to .70, though I can't help suspect that maybe running richer is hurting my high-boost power some too. The VF meter indicates that I'm still full lean at idle, and the car coughs and sputters at 550 rpm. If I turn the AC on the idle jumps to around 900 rpm and mostly idles ok, with an occasional stumble, and the VF meter goes to half-lean. In ordinary city driving the VF meter will ordinarily read half-lean or ideal, going to full lean under low-rpm, low-load cruise conditions. When I get on it it still jumps to full rich and stays there. As a test, with AC on, I tried several different speeds, and at 65 mph the VF meter stays on half-lean, 80 mph is ideal, and 90 mph is half-rich. What do the rest of you get for those speeds, with stock AFM/injectors? So currently performance is a bit, not much, better than before the AFM & injectors, and my idle is worse. I'm hoping the modified FPR will clean up my idle, and if I have to buy an FCON & FCD to eliminate fuel cut I will. This is really getting ridiculous. Reg says that Lance at Toyomoto can do some sort of ECU mod to defeat the fuel cut, but I wonder if that will allow the ECU to deliver appropriate amounts of fuel for air flow levels above the fuel cut level, or if above the fuel cut the airflow amounts are effectively off the ROM map that the ECU has and it won't be able to compute the appropriate fuel levels for the higher airflow. I'm going to try to call Lance and see if I can get him to explain. Unfortunately he's hard to get a hold of. I also wonder if I might have a bad O2 sensor, too. If it wasn't reading properly, that would throw off the VF meter and make the engine run weird, possibly contributing to my poor idle and lower performance. I'm lucky to get 250 miles on a tank of gas during city driving, but I do drive pretty hard. I also notice that with the cat gone the exhaust is REALLY stinky. BAD. It brings tears to my eyes, even at idle. This last weekend while driving around with the targa top off, after the downpipe was put on, I'd pull up to a light and get gassed by my car's emissions. So I don't know what's up with that, but it does make me wonder. The one heartening thing is that I think all the major equipment is ok, so I shouldn't be facing any major repair bills for the first time in years. I get no puffs from the tailpipe on start-up, the coolant looks good, the temperature is fine, the turbo sounds and acts fine, the new injectors were balanced & blueprinted before install, etc., so I figure it's just got to be a matter of tuning. Unfortunately I'm really at a loss for what to do next to get all this equipment to cooperate. I guess the obvious things are to get the FPR (still waiting for delivery of it) and get past the fuel cut. Anyway, suggestions are appreciated and I'll keep you all updated. Aaron B. 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 12:31:14 +0700 From: TDiefenbach@msscc.med.utah.edu (Thomas Diefenbach) Subject: me/mine/mods To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Name: Dr. Thomas J. Diefenbach Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA Model: 1987 Toyota Supra Turbo 5spd Engine: 7M-GTE Mods: Machined block, no second cat., lowered 1 3/4 in.front/1 in. rear, KYB shocks/struts (TEMS disengaged), driving lights wired independent of headlights, ALPINE microwave field alarm system w. doorlock interface. email: TDiefenbach@med.utah.edu xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:02:53 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: 3SGE OIL PROBLEMS >of drain holes. > >Coments please - I am trying to prvent 2 engines fron dying! Neli Fraser has managed to design a sump that apparently solves the problems. Eric Stansfied is now using one of these sumps and apparently has had no problems > >Phil Bradshaw >Leitch Supersprint 20 Valve >'M1STR 2' MR2 loaner! > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:03:05 +1200 (NZST) To: Philip.Bradshaw.1@cyberspace.cyberauto.com (Phil Bradshaw), From: Liam Venter Subject: Re: Alloy Wheel tolerances At 11:21 AM 27/08/96 +1200, Phil Bradshaw wrote: >Went on a field trip to Auckland last week, visited an alloy wheel plant. >Their specs for diameter are +/- 0.65 mm and run out (ie 'wobble') is 0.25 >mm. Bearing in mind that this is for new wheels, but at least it gives >something to aim for. I am no further along with the modifying of the wheels >- unfortunately I will probably have to wait 'till next year, and I am >contemplating other options as well, however best I can figure on >interference fit for steel inserts in alloy wheels is 0.001 inch >intereference for each inch of insert diameter. Performance wheels fitted some steel inserts for me. Also the Pit Stop tyre shop in Auckland can perform this operation or they have someone who does it for them. > >Any commments? > >Phil Bradshaw. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 23:43:51 -1000 (HST) From: Allen T Koji Kam To: abulkh34@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: TRD Bushings, No Directions. Cc: validgh!mr2-digest@ucbvax.berkeley.edu I have a TRD Catalog with listings of the part numbers and applications if you did not already recieve this. Aloha -Allen T Koji Kam xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Loh To: "'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com'" Subject: RE: MR2 Web Page Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:26:28 +0800 Someone was kind enough to send me the URL. It seems the web site just = got moved and the Internic hasn't been update yet. the URL is: = http://206.67.234.253/ To the person that sent the URL, thanks. I'm sorry I can't recall who = sent it though. ---------- From: Harry Wang[SMTP:hwang@orthanc.nchip.COM] Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 1996 12:51 AM To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MR2 Web Page Yeah i have. I tried "www.mr2.com" and "mr2.com" with no luck. = Maybe=20 i just tried to get in at a bad time. ______________________________ Reply Separator = _________________________________ Subject: MR2 Web Page Author: Loh at SMTP Date: 08/24/1996 7:32 AM My apologies for going off topic, but has anyone had trouble getting =3D = into mr2.com lately? I keep getting "The remote site may be down" =3D=20 messages. =20 Leonard xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 07:34:58 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Fred Miranda Cc: Toyota Supras Mailing List , Subject: Re: ['90 Supra Turbo/7MGTE] Lexus AFM upgrade update On Tue, 27 Aug 1996, Fred Miranda wrote: > Let me suggest an aftermarket efi system rather than the FCON & FCD. > You are then in full control! I would love to have that level of control, but I don't have the equipment to tune it. Plus I don't want to disable any features that might tie in to the ECU, such as TEMS, ABS, etc... Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 09:16:32 -0400 From: Andy To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: me/mine/mods Hi I am new to this list here's my info Name :Andy Witter Location :Atlanta, GA USA Work :IntervisionSystems INC. (Computer Parts and Systems.) Model 1 :82 Corolla Liftback (Black) Engine :2TG Mods :TwinMikuni PHH44, HKS cams, Doug-Thourley TRI-Y Header, HKS Flywheel, TRD Clutch and Plate. MSD 6A Ignition(Mallory coil) 3T Block with crank, TRD 10.5:1 Pistons(2-Litre) Crank shaved. 2inch Exhaust strait back into Vance&Hines muffler with removable baffle. Tokico Shocks and Springs, Panasport 13x6 with BFG215x50x13 Tires. Model 2 :84 Toyota Cressida (Gold) Engine :5MGE (Blown):-( Want to but 1UZ-FE or 7M-GTE but may have to settle for 6MGE for now due to limited funds. Mods : Not much yet, 3" exhaust. RandomTechnology 3"Cat. , Kayaba Shocks. MOdel 3 :81 Tercel Engine: 3AC might put The 2TG in here if the current 4AGE project Doesn't work out 172000 Miles on 3A and couting very reliable and current the only one running. The Corolla got :-) totalled so I am left with a 2TG and LOTS of parts. The Cressida 5MGE died due to low Oil Pressure (Pending a 6MGE upgrade. Model 4 81 Rx-7(not running ) Email: dread@atlcom.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 28 Aug 1996 09:48:28 -0400 From: "Bruce Touzel" Subject: Re: Squeaky Celica Rearends To: "Toyota Mods" Reply to: RE>>Squeaky Celica Rearends Trevor, I own an '87 Corolla GTS and have been experiencing a loud hum noise from the rear of the car when driving, could this be bearings, differential, wheel alignment ? I had the differential recently filled with synthetic lube. thanks Bruce Ottawa, Canada bruce_touzel@qmail.newbridge.com -------------------------------------- Date: 8/27/96 2:00 PM To: Bruce Touzel From: Trevor Boicey Bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote: > > I've had good luck with 'waterproof' 'RED' grease sold here for miostly trailer > bearings and farm equipment where constant exposure to water is a factor... I > find it lasts longer than the 'poly bushing grease' and regular white lithium. > Grease ALL the bushings that move - they'll all eventually squeak, so it's best > to cover them before they squeak. In a pinch I use the spray white lithium & > try to get the little nozzle between the mount & the bushing. I have some spray white lithium that I can at least use to see if that is the problem. I am starting to wonder if that is indeed where the awful noise is coming from. It's almost too loud and awful to be coming from there. One factor, I recently moved into a new building that has a mess of speed bumps in the parking garage. Maybe the daily suspension excursion made all my tired old bushings complain at once. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Trevor Boicey - Computer Engineer 1992 Celica GT (95% of the driving I do) 1975 MG Midget (95% of the repairs I do) ------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------ Received: by qmail.ca.newbridge.com with SMTP;26 Aug 1996 23:37:17 -0400 Received: from ns.newbridge.com (kangate.ca.newbridge.com [138.120.49.1]) by kanmaster.ca.newbridge.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) with ESMTP id XAA21201; Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:37:16 -0400 Received: (from adm@localhost) by ns.newbridge.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) id XAA05907; Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:37:15 -0400 Received: from unknown(199.0.8.64) by ns via smap (V1.3) id sma005892; Mon Aug 26 23:37:02 1996 Received: (from root@localhost) by cyberspace.cyberauto.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) id XAA05970 for toyota-mods-outgoing; Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:16:27 -0400 Message-ID: <32226AD8.314F2A46@isocan.com> Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:26:16 -0400 From: Trevor Boicey X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (X11; I; Linux 1.2.13 i586) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Bwiencek@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Squeaky Celica Rearends References: <199608261435.JAA05712@kcnet.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com Precedence: bulk xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?R=E4ikk=F6nen_Timo?= To: "Toyota-Mods-mailin'list" Cc: Allen T Koji Kam Subject: For Koji... Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:23:00 +0300 Hi Koji! Try this way, becouse of some damn MS-Mail server etc. problems here - No updated to MS Exchange Server! I have lost several mails etc. and also haven't been able to send directly any mails to you...!? Mail me at traikkonen@c2000.fi... Matti told me that you are still interested of that hairdryer... =) -Timo- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 10:20:20 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: Mods Toyota Subject: Noisy Rear-end on a '81 Celica gt 5-speed Here'sa problem for you gusy. On my Celica the rear end is pretty noisy (A whiny sort of noise), especially at highways speeds. The noise is directly related to the speed I am traveling, and not on engine output. It also doesn't change no matter what gear I'm in (even in neutral). Anyone know what I need to do to fix this or is this normal? (one of my friends likenened to a jet plane taking off as we accelerated onto a freeway once!!!@) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 96 10:04:24 PST From: "Harry Wang" To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: MKIITurbo: Mr.2 mechanical boost controller I just got off the phone with John (nice guy) from Mr.2 Perf. Products. He was telling me about his mechanical boost controller. It seems like a really good unit for the price. Does anyone have any experience with this product? He was comparing it with the Greddy Profec and said that the Profec produces more lag than his boost controller. It seems like a pretty good deal for the money. Of course it doesn't have the electronic features of the Profec. Also, does anyone in California have his straight pipe exhaust. Can you smog it? Thanks xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Dysart, Glenn B." To: Toyota Mods Subject: RE: MR2 Web Page Date: Wed, 28 Aug 96 11:51:00 PDT I got through this morning using www.mr2.com Glenn ---------- From: toyota-mods-owner To: 'toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com' Subject: RE: MR2 Web Page Date: Wednesday, August 28, 1996 6:26PM Someone was kind enough to send me the URL. It seems the web site just = got moved and the Internic hasn't been update yet. the URL is: = http://206.67.234.253/ To the person that sent the URL, thanks. I'm sorry I can't recall who = sent it though. ---------- From: Harry Wang[SMTP:hwang@orthanc.nchip.COM] Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 1996 12:51 AM To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: MR2 Web Page Yeah i have. I tried "www.mr2.com" and "mr2.com" with no luck. = Maybe=20 i just tried to get in at a bad time. ______________________________ Reply Separator = _________________________________ Subject: MR2 Web Page Author: Loh at SMTP Date: 08/24/1996 7:32 AM My apologies for going off topic, but has anyone had trouble getting =3D = into mr2.com lately? I keep getting "The remote site may be down" =3D=20 messages. =20 Leonard xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 12:56:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Jayson Entao To: Harry Wang Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: cooling turbo in newer cars On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Harry Wang wrote: > My friend with the 96 Eclipse GSX says he doesn't have to idle his car > at all to cool the turbo. He brags that since his car his "newer" > than mine he doesn't have to do what i have to do with my 92 MR2 > Turbo. I don't think this is true. What do you guys think? > Sounds pretty hokey to me. Aside from aftermarket timers and after-oilers, the only other cars I've heard of with stock turbo protection are those Porsches and Audis with the secondary coolant pumps which cool the turbo after shut-down. And I haven't seen those first-hand either. Synth oil, water-cooled turbos and just a bit of cool down time is adequate protection nowadays, methinks.... -Jayson Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ jmentao@ucdavis.edu _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:20:04 -0400 From: Andy To: Monte Bedford Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: me/mine/mods Monte Bedford wrote: > > Andy, > > Great, another "older" (=2/3T) Corolla (whoops, just read > again--it's totalled--sorry). Welcome. And a -TG as well. I'm impressed. > I've been wanting, for sometime, to change my -TC to -TG. But > availability is some question. > > Oh yeah, my list of stuff: > > 78 Corolla TE31 (2 dr. sedan) > > 80 3TC block, TRD 10.5, 2L pistons, TRD oil pump > 78 head, TRD large valves, dbl springs, Isky 99 cam > Mikuni 44's, K&N 4" air filter > TRD header (manufacturer?), 2.25 " exhaust. Need a quieter > muffler--SuperTrapp is anti-socially loud when set for good performance. > The quiet adjustment really hurt performance. > Blue coil springs, Tokico adjustable struts and shocks--have, but need to > be installed. Wheels are 14x6 Carrol Shelby Daytona w/ 185x60HR14 tires. > so-so brand--Daytona. How to the 215 x 50 x 13 tires fit on 13x6 wheels? They fit great. Had a little rubbing on the rear though but I fold the lip under and no more rubbing. They look wicked. > > Getting the body de-rusted and repainted soon. Waiting for non-rusty doors > to arrive from GA. 8^) > > I keep hearing references to -TG, stay away from, too hard to get parts, > etc., etc. Yes This is true. Nowadays it is difficult to get parts for head and upper tensioner, etc. Select Sales in MIami still has a few parts for it. >I'll admit that I won't find one at the local salvage yard. > But do you find that it's really a problem for you to own and operate a > -TG, as far as getting the parts you need? > > Where did you get your engine? Or through whom? I ordered The 2T-G from K-Watanabe in California before places around here started carrying it. Most of the parts came from Select Sales in Miami 305-888-2828 (they specialize in Toyota mod stuff and sell TRD stuff CHEAPER than TRD sells.) > > By the way, I also have a 82 Starlet (stock). I know that people have put > the 3TC in Starlets, but when I got ought the measuring tape--Oh, my > gosh--time for major sheet metal cut. No thank you. I've bought a 5K and > will be building it up. It can be done without too much cutting. The hole for the gearstick needs to be cut open some more and Engine mounts modified along with working out the clutch situation. Cable verses Hydraulic. 4AGe in Starlets are more common here the the T motor though. The 4AGE+Nitrous+Starlet is a 5.0 V8 killer around here.. > > Thanks. > > Monte > > >Hi I am new to this list here's my info > >Name :Andy Witter > >Location :Atlanta, GA USA Work :IntervisionSystems INC. (Computer Parts > >and > > Systems.) > >Model 1 :82 Corolla Liftback (Black) > > Engine :2TG > > Mods :TwinMikuni PHH44, HKS cams, Doug-Thourley TRI-Y Header, > > HKS Flywheel, TRD Clutch and Plate. MSD 6A Ignition(Mallory coil) > > 3T Block with crank, TRD 10.5:1 Pistons(2-Litre) Crank shaved. > > 2inch Exhaust strait back into Vance&Hines muffler with removable > > baffle. > > Tokico Shocks and Springs, Panasport 13x6 with BFG215x50x13 Tires. > > > >Model 2 :84 Toyota Cressida (Gold) > > Engine :5MGE (Blown):-( Want to but 1UZ-FE or 7M-GTE but may have to > > settle for 6MGE for now due to limited funds. > > Mods : Not much yet, 3" exhaust. RandomTechnology 3"Cat. , > > Kayaba Shocks. > > > >MOdel 3 :81 Tercel > > Engine: 3AC might put The 2TG in here if the current 4AGE project > > Doesn't work out > > 172000 Miles on 3A and couting very reliable and current the only one > > running. The Corolla got :-) totalled so I am left with a 2TG and LOTS > > of parts. The Cressida 5MGE died due to low Oil Pressure (Pending a > > 6MGE upgrade. > > > >Model 4 81 Rx-7(not running ) > > > >Email: dread@atlcom.net xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:43:40 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore Ok, sorry I didn't jump in on this one right away. This is really easy to clear up. When it comes to performance, boost (in and of itself) doesn't mean squat. Same for flow. It don't matter whether you're talking about psi or cfm, you're not _truly_ telling what _mass_ of air is flowing into the engine. Mass is EVERYTHING. So you've got 14-15 psi of boost, roughly 1 bar. Yes, that's going to add more performance, but it's not going to tell you how much performance. The only way you can do that is to determine the mass air flow, usually represented in pound per hour. Example (shamelessly stolen from Hugh MacInnes' _Turbochargers_, pg 88): You've got a 151 CID engine running 10,000 rpm. Intake manifold pressure is a whopping 45 psig--that's enough to get you 900HP. If the turbo is 65% efficent (a good working figure) then you're intake air temperature after the turbo is a whopping 475 degrees F! (Somebody help me with the F to C conversion.) Mass air flow is going to be about 900 lbs per hour. Now, let's say that we put a really crappy intercooler on there. This piece of junk is only 50% effective and drops a full 10 psig across it. However, that junky intercooler will take your intake charge from 487F to 293F on a 100F day! This reduction in temperature is going to raise the mass air flow to 941 lbs per hour, _despite_ losing the 10 psi of boost! This means more power, period. Now, keep in mind that 70% effectiveness is a more common number, and that you probably won't be running in many 100F days (unless you're down here in Florida with me) and you'll see that almost 100% of the time, any intercooler is better than none. If you'd like to see the math, you'll have to join diy-turbo or buy Hugh's book. I've got one copy left in stock. Chris (Ok, I see the "you're" instead of the "your" in line 15 but I'm doing command line mail and am too lazy to go back and change it!) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:50:30 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 22R Rebuild Status My 22R rebuild has been moving slowly along, despite the fact that I haven't had time to write about it here. I've been taking pictures at each step, and hope to put together a nice web page on the entire project. Anyway, things are really exciting. The bottom end is all together, and I've shipped the head off to Jeff Williams at Toyz Unlimited to put the machine work magic on it. His machinist-buddy is going to install the 22R valves and seats, new valve guides, new springs, locks, and retainers. At the appropriate points in the process he's also going to "hog the bowls" as we say (the bowl is the area behind the valve-- hogging it is cutting it back to be flush with the new, larger valves.) Then, he's going to open up the 20R intake ports to 22R size. In short, this is going to be one tricked out mamma. Oh, forgot to mention the 5 angle valve job. Jeff's trying to convince me that the 44mm Mikuni's are the way to go, and I'm almost there. (Thanks for that setup, Koji-- looks like they're about to go to work!) I think this is going to be a lot of fun! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:54:21 -0400 From: Chris Myer To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Noisy 81 Celica Rear End Dave: You need to drain that oil from your diff and have a look at it. Sounds like you're either running without any or something like that. The diff should be silent. The oil should be a little dark, but free of any solids. If you've got chunks, you'd better find a new gear. Jeff Williams will probably mail you one cheap-like. Not a huge deal to replace, but not a ton of fun, either. Let us know what you find! Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: bconnelly@vnet.ibm.com Date: Wed, 28 Aug 96 15:57:16 EST To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: LSD Monte, I dont think you will ever break the smaller axle, its really large for cars of this HP. The 3TC will have enough torque to require the TRD LSD or Torsen, the 5K will probably be ok on the 2 pinion one if the clutch plates are fresh. Bruce xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:22:28 -0400 (edt) To: "Bruce Touzel" , From: Santiago Oleas Subject: Re: Squeaky Celica Rearends At 09:48 AM 8/28/96 -0400, Bruce Touzel wrote: > Reply to: RE>>Squeaky Celica Rearends > >Trevor, >I own an '87 Corolla GTS and have been experiencing a loud hum noise from the >rear of the car when driving, could this be bearings, differential, wheel >alignment ? >I had the differential recently filled with synthetic lube. >thanks >Bruce >Ottawa, Canada >bruce_touzel@qmail.newbridge.com Hello, I have been having differential problems recently. I will tell you what I experience and you can decide if these symptoms best describe what you are feeling in your car. When I am braking, just as about when the car comes to a complete stop it shudders and makes a low 'clunking' sound that seems to comes to come from underneath the car. - In recent discussion, the Quaife differential was mentionned. I inquired with a local rally guru and he mentionned to me that the torsen type of differential may not be what I should install in my RWD Corolla. He says that it is ideal for road racing surfaces, but is not recommended for loose surfaces. He has one installed in his Golf GTI, but he says that the characteristics of it work very well for FWD cars. We didn't get into details of this, but if anyone wants more information I can get myself more informed. This is for rallying purposes, not for road-racing, remember. -- Santiago Oleas Montreal, Canada 1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:11:25 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Chris Myer Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore Using your example, Chris, you'll have to explain to me how putting an additional restriction in the intake (the crappy intercooler) raises the mass air flow. _UNLESS_ you spin the turbo faster, I can't see how the mass air flow is going to increase. How does putting an additional restriction in the path of the turbo increase the mass of the air entering the turbo? Otherwise, how can you increase the mass of the air entering the engine without increasing the mass of the air entering the turbo? You can't. So regardless of what the intercooler does, you have to increase the mass of air entering the turbo to increase the mass of air entering the engine. Putting an intercooler on by itself can not increase the mass of air entering the turbo. What it can do is allow you to spin the turbo faster, thus causing more air to enter the turbo, but still keep the intake charge temperature low enough to prevent detonation. So I contend that no matter what intercooler you put in, it's going to be a restriction in the intake path and to compensate for that restriction you have to spin the turbo faster. When you spin the turbo faster, the intake charge air heats up more due to two effects: 1) compression 2) turbo is probably less efficient at higher boost. Hopefully (and usually) the intercooler drops the temperature more than the turbo heats it up, but in any case the point is: the more pressure drop the intercooler causes (equivalent to the more restriction it has) means: the faster you have to spin the turbo to compensate which means: the hotter the pre-intercooler intake charge which means: the more cooling effect the intercooler has to have to be beneficial. All I am saying is that it is fallacious to say that the pressure drop doesn't matter. Pressure drop is not linearly related to cooling effect. You can get two intercoolers that each cool your intake charge the same amount but have different pressure drops and the one with less pressure drop will provide a higher mass air flow than the other, due to the fact that the turbo doesn't have to work so hard to push air through. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:27:23 -0400 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: "Christopher P. Myer" Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore Mr. Buhr asks: > Using your example, Chris, you'll have to explain to me how putting >an additional restriction in the intake (the crappy intercooler) raises >the mass air flow. _UNLESS_ you spin the turbo faster, I can't see how >the mass air flow is going to increase. How does putting an additional >restriction in the path of the turbo increase the mass of the air >entering the turbo? Otherwise, how can you increase the mass of the air >entering the engine without increasing the mass of the air entering the >turbo? You can't. Careful! Don't shame the good name of the U of F Physics Department! Lets go through the issues here more carefully. Combustion power is a function of the amount of air/fuel mixture that you can put in your cylinder, right? You're thinking about _volume_ of air. If you have a closed container at 1 atmosphere, this does not tell you what the _mass_ of the air inside of that container is. This is a function of things like air temperature, humidity, etc. Your cylinder, with the valves shut and the piston at the bottom of the stroke, is that closed container. At a given engine speed and given turbocharger speed, you can only put so much _volume_ of air inside of that closed container during the intake stroke. Now, how can we increase the _mass_ of that air? By cooling it! What the earlier example showed was how significant the increase in mass is when we cool the intake charge. In that example, we could fully cut the _volume_ of air pushed through the intake by 25% and still see a moderate gain in air mass. Ok, now that we've got more _mass_ of air in the cylinder, what can we add? (You, there on the back row....) That's absolutely correct--MORE FUEL! We will find our best power when we get roughly a 12.5:1 air to fuel mixture. (Stochimetric is 14.7:1, and best fuel economy is 15.5:1, roughly.) We've added more air, added more fuel, now we get more zoom! > All I am saying is that it is fallacious to say that the pressure >drop doesn't matter. Pressure drop is not linearly related to cooling >effect. You can get two intercoolers that each cool your intake charge >the same amount but have different pressure drops and the one with less >pressure drop will provide a higher mass air flow than the other, due to >the fact that the turbo doesn't have to work so hard to push air through. Well, this isn't _all_ you said, but if it were it would have been correct. You can't disregard pressure drop--you have to plan for it. That's why _everyone_ who's twinkin' with their turbo's needs to be on diy-turbo! There is some fairly simple mathematics that must be done for every change in the system to determine exactly what the effect will be. Will putting a larger compressor wheel on give more boost? Maybe, maybe not! If you ask for a turbo upgrade without asking for a boost map in advance, and without carefully considering what the effect of the change will be, you are shooting in the dark. Hopefully helpful... Chris xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: "Justen Simpson" To: "Aaron Buhr" , Cc: Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 10:18:09 +1000 Pretty hairy stuff this turbo physics, how about this for confusing - i was discussing the need for a blow off valve with a hydraulic engineer who has had some dealings with turbines (not actually automotive turbos though) and the mathimatics of a turbine shows that when airflow is zero ie. the air is not moving regardless of it's pressure, then the turbine is doing the least work and therefore spins faster. So what you say. Well, when the throttle butterfly closes the airflow through the intake system effectively stops and contrary to popular belief the turbo compressor doesn't stall it actually speeds up. The compressor is of course connected to the turbine which you would expect to slow when the throttle closes but this would be unaffected by the blow off valve. I suggested that the intake velocity would be conserved by a blow off valve and perhaps this is its purpose but my engineer friend couldn't shed any light on this. Apart from preventing the reflected pressure wave from the butterfly hitting the compressor wheel I'm at a bit of a loss as to the performance advantages of a blow off valve. I also have MacInnes and a couple of other turbo tech books and none of them discuss this aspect of turbo design in detail, if at all. Interestingly, Neil Bates' Australian Rally Championship winning GT4 doesn't run a blow off valve but many of the other Group a cars do. Apart from prolonging turbo life has anyone got any ideas on what performance benefits a blow off valve can provide. As an aside I'm looking at building my own blow off valve based on the Mazda factory team design which runs a solenoide controlled pressure release valve activated when the butterfly shuts. I'll keep you informed. Cheers, Justen Simpson CRC Freshwater Ecology University of Canberra, Australia Simpson@lake.canberra.edu.au ---------- > From: Aaron Buhr > To: Chris Myer > Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com > Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore > Date: Thursday, August 29, 1996 8:11 > > Using your example, Chris, you'll have to explain to me how putting > an additional restriction in the intake (the crappy intercooler) raises > the mass air flow. _UNLESS_ you spin the turbo faster, I can't see how > the mass air flow is going to increase. How does putting an additional > restriction in the path of the turbo increase the mass of the air > entering the turbo? Otherwise, how can you increase the mass of the air > entering the engine without increasing the mass of the air entering the > turbo? You can't. > > So regardless of what the intercooler does, you have to increase the > mass of air entering the turbo to increase the mass of air entering the > engine. Putting an intercooler on by itself can not increase the mass of > air entering the turbo. What it can do is allow you to spin the turbo > faster, thus causing more air to enter the turbo, but still keep the > intake charge temperature low enough to prevent detonation. > > So I contend that no matter what intercooler you put in, it's going to > be a restriction in the intake path and to compensate for that restriction > you have to spin the turbo faster. When you spin the turbo faster, the > intake charge air heats up more due to two effects: 1) compression 2) > turbo is probably less efficient at higher boost. Hopefully (and usually) > the intercooler drops the temperature more than the turbo heats it up, but > in any case the point is: > > the more pressure drop the intercooler causes (equivalent to the > more restriction it has) means: > the faster you have to spin the turbo to compensate which means: > the hotter the pre-intercooler intake charge which means: > the more cooling effect the intercooler has to have to be beneficial. > > All I am saying is that it is fallacious to say that the pressure > drop doesn't matter. Pressure drop is not linearly related to cooling > effect. You can get two intercoolers that each cool your intake charge > the same amount but have different pressure drops and the one with less > pressure drop will provide a higher mass air flow than the other, due to > the fact that the turbo doesn't have to work so hard to push air through. > > Aaron B. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 21:09:29 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: "Christopher P. Myer" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Christopher P. Myer wrote: > > Using your example, Chris, you'll have to explain to me how putting > >an additional restriction in the intake (the crappy intercooler) raises > >the mass air flow. _UNLESS_ you spin the turbo faster, I can't see how > >the mass air flow is going to increase. How does putting an additional > >restriction in the path of the turbo increase the mass of the air > >entering the turbo? Otherwise, how can you increase the mass of the air > >entering the engine without increasing the mass of the air entering the > >turbo? You can't. > > Careful! Don't shame the good name of the U of F Physics Department! Lets Actually, Chris, since you brought it up, I went to Rice University, which is far more selective than UF. :) > go through the issues here more carefully. Combustion power is a function > of the amount of air/fuel mixture that you can put in your cylinder, right? > You're thinking about _volume_ of air. If you have a closed container at > 1 atmosphere, this does not tell you what the _mass_ of the air inside of > that container is. This is a function of things like air temperature, > humidity, etc. Your cylinder, with the valves shut and the piston at > the bottom of the stroke, is that closed container. At a given engine speed > and given turbocharger speed, you can only put so much _volume_ of air > inside of that closed container during the intake stroke. Now, how can > we increase the _mass_ of that air? By cooling it! What the earlier > example showed was how significant the increase in mass is when we cool > the intake charge. In that example, we could fully cut the _volume_ of > air pushed through the intake by 25% and still see a moderate gain in air > mass. Regardless, you have failed to answer the questions I posed to you. #1) Do you agree that in order to increase the mass of air entering the engine, you have to increase the mass of air entering the turbocharger? #2) Do you agree that the intercooler _on it's own_ can have no beneficial effect on the mass of air entering the turbocharger? I suspect you're going to disagree with me on number 2. In that case, please answer the following questions: #3) How can the intercooler, which comes AFTER the turbocharger, increase the number of air molecules entering the turbocharger? The only way this would be true would be to lower the effective pressure on the compressor outlet side of the turbocharger. I hope you agree with me that the intercooler will not lower the pressure on the compressor outlet side of the turbocharger (pre-intercooled). If you don't agree, please explain why not. Chris, you are talking around my argument and then tell me I'm wrong. If you are going to say I'm wrong please point out where you disagree, rather than declaring me wrong and attacking your straw man. Anyway, no offense intended but I have my good name (and now Rice's) to uphold, so please stick to the point. Aaron xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 01:20:54 +0000 From: Dave Tingling To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: dting@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Should have mentioned that it is the US versions of the GTS, FX-16 GTS, and MR2 that have the wrong distributor. The Japaneese LEVIN, the TRUENO and others destined for NON U.S. markets will possibly have the distributor I need. Look fo rthe gearlike teeth instead of a four pointed pickup behind the rotor brush. HELP!!!! Dave. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 96 17:50:18 PST From: "Harry Wang" Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re[2]: Intercooler Folklore So how do you choose an intercooler? Just find the most efficient one you can buy? It seems like in a bad set-up the disadvantages may equal the advantages. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore Author: Aaron Buhr at SMTP Date: 08/28/1996 4:33 PM Hopefully (and usually) the intercooler drops the temperature more than the turbo heats it up, but in any case the point is: the more pressure drop the intercooler causes (equivalent to the more restriction it has) means: the faster you have to spin the turbo to compensate which means: the hotter the pre-intercooler intake charge which means: the more cooling effect the intercooler has to have to be beneficial. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 21:36:59 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore On Thu, 29 Aug 1996, Justen Simpson wrote: > Pretty hairy stuff this turbo physics, how about this for confusing - i was > discussing the need for a blow off valve with a hydraulic engineer who has > had some dealings with turbines (not actually automotive turbos though) and > the mathimatics of a turbine shows that when airflow is zero ie. the air is > not moving regardless of it's pressure, then the turbine is doing the least > work and therefore spins faster. So what you say. Well, when the throttle > butterfly closes the airflow through the intake system effectively stops > and contrary to popular belief the turbo compressor doesn't stall it > actually speeds up. The compressor is of course connected to the turbine > which you would expect to slow when the throttle closes but this would be > unaffected by the blow off valve. I suggested that the intake velocity > would be conserved by a blow off valve and perhaps this is its purpose but > my engineer friend couldn't shed any light on this. Apart from preventing > the reflected pressure wave from the butterfly hitting the compressor wheel > I'm at a bit of a loss as to the performance advantages of a blow off > valve. I also have MacInnes and a couple of other turbo tech books and none > of them discuss this aspect of turbo design in detail, if at all. > Interestingly, Neil Bates' Australian Rally Championship winning GT4 > doesn't run a blow off valve but many of the other Group a cars do. Apart > from prolonging turbo life has anyone got any ideas on what performance > benefits a blow off valve can provide. You are exactly correct. A great example (I'm just full of examples these days) take a hair dryer, put your hand over it and hear it speed up. This works with a big 20" box fan as well, turn it on, tell your dog to NOT knock it over. The dog will instinctively knock the fan down causing it to speed up, and panic everyone in the house that it's going to start a fire *grin* I also agree that the performance benefits to a blow off are little to none. It's purpose is to protect the turbo from damage from the pressure wave. > As an aside I'm looking at building my own blow off valve based on the > Mazda factory team design which runs a solenoide controlled pressure > release valve activated when the butterfly shuts. I'll keep you informed. Sounds interesting. I have decided to take a blow off from a Ford Sierra turbo which is supposed to be an almost direct replacement for the 7MGTE's stock blow off... $55 is a hell of a lot less than the $200 or more for some "performance" blow off valve. - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623 I live with fear and danger everyday. But occasionally I leave Her and go racing. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 23:06:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Harry Wang Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Re[2]: Intercooler Folklore On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Harry Wang wrote: > So how do you choose an intercooler? Just find the most efficient one > you can buy? It seems like in a bad set-up the disadvantages may > equal the advantages. Yep, that's the problem. I talked with Corky Bell, the president of Bell Engineering Group Inc. (BEGI), which used to be called CarTech, when I was shopping for my intercooler. He told me straight out that at increased boost levels the stock 7MGTE intercooler was enough of a restriction that it was actually harmful to performance. He flat-out said that on some of his Supra modifications the car ran faster after replacing the intercooler with a straight pipe. He impressed me enough with his knowledge and experience that I bought my intercooler from him, though he didn't try to "sell" me on it at all. I mentioned that I was also considering the Spearco intercooler (roughly the same price) and he had nothing but good things to say about George Spears (president of Spearco). Anyway, I've figured out all the equations that relate to intercooler performance, and I'll post them later. Right now I'm trying to figure out how the equations relate to my intuitive understanding of physics. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 28 Aug 1996 20:12:09 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: Cam wear To: "toyota mods" Reply to: RE>>Cam wear Howdy, B man. Hi all. >> I don't know how many miles you should expect from a high >> performance cam. It must be less the standard cam because of the >> stronger springs and the higher acceleration forces due the higher >> lift. You would also expect to run an engine with a performance cam >> at higher RPMs and for more of the time. But I would still expect it >> to last at least 50K miles. > From what I've seen, it does vary quite a bit depending on a few things - > 1. Cam lobe area. > 2. Surface area of cam follower. > 3. Spring tension, and spring rate. > 4. Cam duration & lift. > 5. Oil flow for lubrication & cooling. Yep, that all makes sense. Also (I may be stating the obvious) it certainly depends on the heat treat of the lobe faces. Which, for aftermarket cams, could be a hit or miss thing. I don't know the Rockwell hardness specs for the stock cams, but for a more aggressive than stock cam, the surface hardness ought to be AT LEAST that of a Toyota cam, and ideally higher, right? Could John Garza's short cam life be due to regrinds, where the cam vendor didn't pay enough attention to his heat treat process, after grinding through the existing Toyota heat treat shell? Cams usually either live through their run-in period, or they don't. If they do, and if oiling is sufficient, then I would expect a cam to last much longer than 6K miles. Cams that fail early usually do so because of wearing through the hard face on the lobes, before work hardening enough from running, to slow down the wear rate. > The twin cam has a much easier job than the push-rod for all the right > reasons Yep. That's a really good point. And a related point is, that if you want to tap real world knowledge of what it takes to achieve good cam life at extreme loading, ask someone with experience building push-rod race engines. (Especially for a class that requires stock rocker arms and no trick tappets!) erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 22:16:52 -0500 (CDT) From: Mike Kronvold To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote: > > Careful! Don't shame the good name of the U of F Physics Department! Lets > Actually, Chris, since you brought it up, I went to Rice University, > which is far more selective than UF. :) My dad can beat up your dad! (well... maybe if he fell on 'im...) and Univ of IL engineering is kinda picky as well... > #1) Do you agree that in order to increase the mass of air entering the > engine, you have to increase the mass of air entering the turbocharger? > #2) Do you agree that the intercooler _on it's own_ can have no beneficial > effect on the mass of air entering the turbocharger? I think I'm seeing the problem here. One of you has mistaken Mass for Density. Changing the temperature of the intake charge doesn't change it's Mass, it changes it's density. Density makes power. Mass is nice too and is what you need to match Fuel to. > I suspect you're going to disagree with me on number 2. In that > case, please answer the following questions: > #3) How can the intercooler, which comes AFTER the turbocharger, increase > the number of air molecules entering the turbocharger? The only way this > would be true would be to lower the effective pressure on the compressor > outlet side of the turbocharger. I hope you agree with me that the > intercooler will not lower the pressure on the compressor outlet side of > the turbocharger (pre-intercooled). If you don't agree, please explain > why not. Right. The mass isn't changed by the intercooler unless the air is somehow permanantly trapped inside(not really possible), or leaked out. The DENSITY of the air will increase greatly as it is cooled. A lower pressure charge with a higher Density can allow you to burn more fuel which means more power. > Chris, you are talking around my argument and then tell me I'm wrong. > If you are going to say I'm wrong please point out where you disagree, > rather than declaring me wrong and attacking your straw man. > Aaron play nice :) chris, where's this dyi-turbos list? - Mike -- Michael Kronvold, Network Engineer, Damocles Ventures (847) 885-9623 I live with fear and danger everyday. But occasionally I leave Her and go racing. 1992 Toyota Supra Turbo xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:39:19 -0700 Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore To: Aaron Buhr , Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote: > Regardless, you have failed to answer the questions I posed to you. > >#1) Do you agree that in order to increase the mass of air entering the >engine, you have to increase the mass of air entering the turbocharger? Yes, true on this count. >#2) Do you agree that the intercooler _on it's own_ can have no beneficial >effect on the mass of air entering the turbocharger? No. >#3) How can the intercooler, which comes AFTER the turbocharger, increase >the number of air molecules entering the turbocharger? The only way this >would be true would be to lower the effective pressure on the compressor >outlet side of the turbocharger. I hope you agree with me that the >intercooler will not lower the pressure on the compressor outlet side of >the turbocharger (pre-intercooled). If you don't agree, please explain >why not. I think that what you're forgetting to factor in is density and just what causes the differences in pressure. Air entering the intercooler at x degrees and y pressure will exit at a lower temperature and lower pressure. You say restriction. I say the cooled charge and reduced pressure creates a draw-through effect at the intercooler. E.g. What happens when the pressure in one area is higher than the pressure in another? So in effect yes, it does lower the pressure at the compressor outlet. More mass airflow is thus achieved. I think that the key to consider in proper intercooler sizing is to look at the raw uncooled CFM rating. I.e. Will the intercooler flow the mass of air required for y horsepower? If it meets this criteria, then the bulk of the pressure drop will be due to the cooling, not restriction. If the intercooler doesn't meet this minimum requirement, then it's possible that power is being lost and it's time to get a better cooler. Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo (Intercooled) _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 23:41:57 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Mike Kronvold Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Mike Kronvold wrote: > You are exactly correct. A great example (I'm just full of examples > these days) take a hair dryer, put your hand over it and hear it speed up. I don't think a hair dryer is comparable to a turbocharger. From what I understand, turbine wheels designed to produce volume flow (hair dryers & fans) are significantly different from turbine wheels designed to produce pressure (turbochargers). The issue, I believe, is that for hair dryers and fans, if you halt air movement all that happens is that the turbines cavitate and encounter very little resistance. However turbocharger are designed to prevent cavitation, so pressure builds up, slowing, halting, and even potentially reversing the turbine blade. I'm not an expert in this area so I can't go into much more detail, but I thought I'd throw this out for what it's worth. I don't believe that turbocharger turbine wheels speed up when you block off their output. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 23:46:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: kca@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Cc: "Christopher P. Myer" , Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore On Wed, 28 Aug 1996 kca@interserv.com wrote: > So in effect yes, it does lower the pressure at the compressor outlet. More > mass airflow is thus achieved. Actually, the pressure is no lower _at the compressor outlet_. It is lower _at the intercooler outlet_. This is a critical, critical difference. The temperature drop and pressure drop happen at the end of the intercooler, not at it's start, not at the turbo outlet. Please see my next post for the exhaustive analysis, including how to determine the intercooler for your needs. :) Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:46:34 -0700 Subject: Re: Blow-off valve effectiveness, was: Intercooler Folklore To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Mike Kronvold wrote: > I also agree that the performance benefits to a blow off are little > to none. It's purpose is to protect the turbo from damage from the > pressure wave. So does anybody have any idea just how effective the blow-off valve can be at protecting the turbo? I.e. How much longer should a turbo last with vs. without? I haven't had any noticeable problems with my blow-off blocked off. Am I flirting with disaster? Kip "I used to own a Toyota" Anderson _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 23:48:45 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Modifications Mailing List Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore, exhaustive analysis :) I've been really thinking about this now (uh-oh... :) ). First thing we have to agree on is that the mass of air entering the turbocharger is the same as the mass of air going into the engine, regardless of if the intercooler is there or what it is doing. The mass of the air is directly related to the number of air molecules, period, in all conditions, no matter what. The density, which is the number of molecules per unit volume, _is_ influenced by temperature and pressure, but regardless, the mass of air is equivalent to the number of air molecules times the mass of each molecule. Now, if you are willing to agree that under steady-state conditions none of the air molecules are getting stuck in the system, then for every air molecule that goes into the intercooler per unit time one comes out and goes into the engine, and you have to agree that the mass of air entering the turbocharger is the same as the mass of air entering the engine, period. I'm going to throw out my formulas now: p = k*(m*t)/v d = m/v = k*(p*v)/(t*v) = (k*p)/t p = pressure k = constant (a named one I believe, but I forget which) m = mass t = temperature v = volume d = density Anyway, then, if we agree that the mass entering the turbocharger is the same as the mass exiting the turbocharger is the same as the mass entering the intercooler is the same as the mass exiting the intercooler is the same as the mass entering the engine (which I hope we do) then we come to the first conclusion that the intercooler has no direct effect upon the mass of air entering the engine, under steady state conditions, which is one point I was trying to make in previous posts. Its only influence can be on how hard the turbo has to work to get a given mass of air into the engine. So, let's say we want to make 500 hp. To make 500 hp you have to have a given mass of air in the engine to use to burn up your fuel. Let's say that mass is m2. And the volume of the engine is constant, call it v2. We can pretty much determine the temperature we want it to be, since that is determined by the detonation resistance of the gas we use, and detonation resistance is directly related to temperature. So we pretty much know at least an upper bound on temperature, t2. Then plugging into our equation that tells us the amount of boost pressure we have to run to make that much hp, p2. So we decide we need to get a turbo to increase boost pressure from atmospheric to p2. Unfortunately the turbo causes temperature to go up, let's call that temperature t1. We would detonate if we fed gas at t1 into the engine. So we have to put an intercooler in to lower temperature from t1 to t2. Now, our intercooler efficiency will determine how much pressure loss we will get if take air at pressure p2 and try to cool it from t1 to t2. Let's call that change in pressure delta_p, which may be zero, and may not. In any case then, to account for the pressure drop across the intercooler but still get our gas at p2 and t2 into the engine, the turbocharger now has to make pressure equal to p2 + delta_p, which we can call p1. So now we get to the other point I was trying to make, which is that the pressure drop over an intercooler does matter. If delta_p, the pressure drop across the intercooler, is large, then p1 is also large. Now, according to turbocharger compressor maps there is only a relatively small "island" for a given pressure ratio that the turbocharger can produce the flow volume (CFM) needed. The compressor map shows that for a given flow volume there are a certain range of pressures that the turbocharger can generate. If the pressure needed to overcome the pressure drop caused by intercooler is such that the pressure arrives at the wrong flow volume, or worse, off the compressor map entirely, you are SOL. In other words, the intercooler pressure drop can have very significant effects on engine performance due to how it can raise the needed turbocharger pressure to pressures either less efficient or off the compressor map altogether (i.e. unachievable). However, there are a relatively small number of cases where increasing the turbo pressure can actually get the turbocharger into a more efficient zone of the compressor map. These cases all happen at relatively low boost pressures and low flow volumes, and pretty much indicate that you probably have too large a turbo on the engine to begin with. So, does anyone have any questions? :) You should be able to see from the equations above how you can take your desired performance, your desired gas octane, and your turbocharger compressor map and determine what kind of intercooler you need. Cool huh? Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 21:01:41 -0700 Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore To: Aaron Buhr Cc: "Christopher P. Myer" , On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote: >On Wed, 28 Aug 1996 kca@interserv.com wrote: >> So in effect yes, it does lower the pressure at the compressor outlet. More >> mass airflow is thus achieved. > > Actually, the pressure is no lower _at the compressor outlet_. It is >lower _at the intercooler outlet_. This is a critical, critical >difference. I agree that the pressure is not lower at the compressor outlet. I worded things incorrectly. What should be noted is that more air is flowing through the turbo at the same pressure - effectively increasing the compressor efficiency via the draw-through effect of the intercooler. >The temperature drop and pressure drop happen at the end of >the intercooler, not at it's start, not at the turbo outlet. Agreed. > Please see my next post for the exhaustive analysis, including how to >determine the intercooler for your needs. :) Can't wait. I'd be grateful if you could prove me wrong. ;-) Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| "Ignorance is man's best weapon against himself." - Me! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 04:03:18 UT From: "BRAD BEDELL" To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: celica Hey everyone, I just bought a All-trac Turbo, someone please tell me the good/ bad things aobut this car...Trans, diff etc.. Thanks, Bradbedell@msn.com 91 MKII Turbo 88 Celica All-Trac xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Daucott@aol.com Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 00:09:11 -0400 To: Toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: 4AGE Cam Question Hey folks, In between reading about intercoolers and such, I've been putting the head back on my MK1 all freshened up and ready for new cams. I'll make a long story brief: After getting it back together and starting it, I shut it down due to a noise (forgot to tighten the water pump and A/C pulleys.... hey, no one's perfect). Lucky I did this, because in the process of figuring out where the noise was coming from I noticed alot of oil on the intake cam gear (and all over the new timing belt). Upon further inspection the oil is not coming from the oil seal as I first suspected, but from inside the cam through the part the cam bolt threads into! The only thing I have to compare to are the stock cams, and the drilled/threaded area is isolated from the oil paths of the cam. I know the cam pulley bolt isn't a sealed bolt, so isn't this an indication of faulty cams? I know some of you have installed HKS cams and other aftermarket cams, so any and all help will be appreciated. If the cams are bad I want to yank them Thursday night and put the stockers back in so I can drive the car. Thanks in advance! Dave Aucott daucott@aol.com (home), daucott@e-mail.com (work) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 00:09:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Buhr To: Toyota Modifications Mailing List Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore, exhaustive analysis :) What I was saying about compressor maps might make more sense if you all had one handy. I've got three here in the June 1995 issue of European Car, and if you all like I'll scan them in tomorrow at work and post them somewhere. Aaron B. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 28 Aug 1996 21:48:29 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: 3SGE OIL PROBLEMS To: kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, Reply to: RE>>3SGE OIL PROBLEMS Phil wrote: >>Coments please - I am trying to prevent 2 engines fron dying! Liam wrote: >Neil Fraser has managed to design a sump that apparently solves the >problems. Eric Stansfied is now using one of these sumps and >apparently has had no problems. Cool! I'm hungry for details. Let's hear more about Neil Fraser's sump design. What method(s) of oil control did he use? There's nothing inherently unique to the 3SGE, about either of the problems that Phil mentioned; i.e. the excessive volume of oil accumulating in the head (common, when you start increasing RPM and oil pump volume) or the reduction in sump capacity to meet ground clearance requirements (common, when you decrease the sump height in our low ground clearance cars!) The less surplus oil you have in the sump, the more you need good sump oil control. Aside from dry sumping, which is expensive and complicated, for anything short of a road racer, and accusumping (which I've heard, doesn't work as well as advertised) some oil control methods that I'm aware of are: 1) Baffling with fences that open and close, acting as one-way valves, to steer the oil in the sump towards the pickup. 2) A "swinger" oil pickup. Item 2) probably needs a bit of explanation, for those who aren't familiar with it. It has a rotating arm, with the oil pickup on the end. The whole thing rotates around the vertical axis. It has a bushing/coupling (which is always lubricated pretty well... it is submerged in the sump) through which the pick-up oil travels. The oil moves around the sump in response to vehicle acceleration, and so does the pickup, so the pickup follows the oil! The swinger has been shown to be extremely effective on autocross cars, giving results almost as good as a dry sump for very low $$ __IF__ it swings freely enough. If it __DOESN'T__ swing freely enough, then if you brake hard in a very straight line, it can hang towars the rear of the sump, and starve the engine. The solution to this problem is to be careful when assembling the thing, so that it rotates very easily. Comments? erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 22:02:24 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rees To: Chris Myer Cc: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Subject: Re: Noisy 81 Celica Rear End Well I've already tried that, but to no avail. The oil didn't have any metal hards in it! (Good thing!) I think it's gotta be the rear axle bearings. They probably have't ever been changed in the entire ife of the car! ( 16 years and 176k miles! ) On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Chris Myer wrote: > Dave: > > You need to drain that oil from your diff and have a look at it. Sounds > like you're either running without any or something like that. The > diff should be silent. The oil should be a little dark, but free of > any solids. If you've got chunks, you'd better find a new gear. > Jeff Williams will probably mail you one cheap-like. Not a huge deal > to replace, but not a ton of fun, either. > > Let us know what you find! > > Chris > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 01:35:49 -0400 To: mr2-digest@cyberspace.cyberauto.com, toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: Christopher Heiser Subject: Re: MR2 MKIITurbo: Mr.2 mechanical boost controller > I just got off the phone with John (nice guy) from Mr.2 Perf. > Products. He was telling me about his mechanical boost controller. > It seems like a really good unit for the price. Does anyone have any > experience with this product? i have been running the Mr.2 boost controller for about 3 months now, and am very satisfied with its performance. i had the pleasure of setting the system up at Mr.2 in Denver, Colorado. John even loaned us his boost gauge (not necessary to set the controller up, but very fun) to drive around while we calibrated. the boost controller will stay completely closed until the max pressure, and then blow open. also, when the pressure drops, the valve will close quickly (during shifts) to maintain boost pressure. pretty neat. unfortunately, it doesnt have all the configurability of a digital controller, but it takes only about 20-30 minutes to install and is very reliable. and much less $$$! the difference is very noticable (whoooaaahhhh! slow down!) espically in the higher gears (3rd and above). very fun. and i think there is a trade in policy if you want to upgrade later to a digital controller. -ch Christopher B. Heiser | chris@visionfoundry.com | VisionFoundry, Ltd. | xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 28 Aug 1996 22:40:51 -0700 From: "Erik Berg" Subject: Re: body engine swaps To: "kitracers@cyberspace.cyberauto." , Reply to: RE>body engine swaps Scott, >I would like to know what has to remain the same on a car to register it as >what it started as. Where are you located? Assuming US, and if you are willing to bend the rules a little bit in your favor, probably not much of anything has to remain the same. There are plenty of Lotus 7 replicas running around in the world that are registered as Ford Anglias or even more obscure things... after all, what does DMV ask you for, when you register a vehicle? As long as you have a pink slip, they don't generally have to see the car. Unless, that is, you need a safety inspection or other such... for example maybe if it is a salvage pink, or has been registered non-use? If so, get it inspected and registered FIRST, before you start modifying (or totally rebuilding ;-) ;-) ;-) it. All of the foregoing assumes that you are using a registration from a pre-smog requirements (still 1965 or before in most US states, right everyone??) car. If not, your life will get more complicated, but because of smog reasons, not basic DMV reasons. > How are kit cars registered? Chassis, motor, something else? I would like to hear other people's opinion on this, but I think that just about the worst thing you could do when you walk into DMV to try to register a kit car, is to actually explicitly say that it is a kit car. I think it would be a lot better to get a registration first, from some donor vehicle, and use it. erik.berg@trw.com xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kca@interserv.com Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 23:02:13 -0700 Subject: Re: Intercooler Folklore, exhaustive analysis :) To: Aaron Buhr , On Thu, 29 Aug 1996, Aaron Buhr wrote: > > What I was saying about compressor maps might make more sense if you >all had one handy. I've got three here in the June 1995 issue of >European Car, and if you all like I'll scan them in tomorrow at work and >post them somewhere. I do, and your illustration of how pressure maps relate to all of this is well taken and makes very good sense to me. Your argument however is only partially valid, although it is an important point. The question is: Can a very efficient intercooler cause the turbo to work outside of a more efficient portion of the pressure map? I don't think so. What would the end result be? A higher overall mass airflow at the same boost pressure? Not possible if the compressor has become less efficient. It's important to keep in mind that boost pressure maps are created without the dynamics of intercooling and intake tuning factored in. They are generated from the turbo by itself venting into static atmospheric pressure. A draw-through effect from the intercooler will aid the flow of air from the compressor and effectively increase efficiency, thus shifting the dynamics of the pressure map. In a clam shell (tired of those damn nuts): A properly sized intercooler (read not restrictive) will make a compressor more efficient at a given boost pressure and mass airflow by increasing the velocity of the airflow from the compressor to the intercooler. So you get a higher VE from a pressure drop across the intercooler. Damn! I wish I had all of this figured out when I started this debate! Make sense? Kip Anderson _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| 91 Isuzu Impulse RS AWD Turbo _| _| _| _| _| kca@interserv.com _| _| _| _| _| _| _| _| http://members.aol.com/kipanderso _| _| _| _| P.S. Lemme no win I kin kleen up d'werms . . . or should I make room for more??? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 01:12:33 -0500 To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com From: dting@jol.com.jm (Dave Tingling) Subject: Corolla Gti-16 (AE92R-AGMVF) Cc: dting@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Howdy all! I'm a newbie here. I'm sure, however, that this group has the answer to my life's greatest frustration. First: Name: Dave Tingling Location: Kingston, Jamaica. Model: Late 1988 Corolla Gti-16, MODEL CODE AE92R-AGMVF. fwd, rhd, all wheel disc, power steering version. Engine: Normally aspirated 4A-GE, (4A-1156291) Mods: TRD stroking kit, bored, TRD flywheel, K&N filter, 0.8mm TRD Head gasket, TRD Q29 plugs, Custom exhaust w/stock headers, TRD 4 step front adj. shocks, TRD 8 step adj. rear shocks, TRD springs, TRD engine mounts, TRD clutch & pressure plate, TRD quick shifter & knob, TRD "Torino" steering wheel, etc. Can you guess this is my baby? Anyway, let me get straight into the thick of things. I know some of you are familiar with the Gti-16 and might help. I've been doing my homework. (right, Timo?) Here the prob: I have taken it upon myself to leave my lovely little Island in the sun to seek a Distributor for this car. I have found myself in the USA, but unfortunately, I have discovered that the distributors in the Corolla GTS, FX16-GTS, or the MR2 are different from the one in the GTi-16, and therefore nowhere does there exist in the US and (and in my half of the world) a distributor for a GTi-16. The closest thing is the one from the GTS corolla, same year. At first glance, it's the right thing, cap is the same, mounting is the same, same outer casing, then. However, upon closer inspection, the guts vary. In the GTS, the part on the shaft that turns with the shaft as the shaft spins, just below where the rotor brush fits onto, (turning inside a magnetic field? I'm not sure of the correct term for it.) has four distinct points, being somewhat diamond shaped. In the Gti-16 distributor, (I'm going from memory here, it's a LOOOONG story what happened to the original distributor from the car). the equivalent part resembles more of a cog or a gear, with maybe twenty or thirty "teeth" or points. A semblance of this is seen in the american 4A-F distributor. Since the US guys don't have the distributor as a standard stock item, they cannot even provide me with a part number so I can special order it. I think i must have looked thru all the microfilm bits the dealers have. Even Toyota's US Customer Service Center has been unhelpful with this quest. HERE IS MY SPECIFIC REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE : I NEED a part number for a distributor for my Gti-16. Could someone, preferrably from the UK, Japan or other Europpean country where the Gti-16 "exists" please check this out for me? My vacation from work